Surf Punk Pany Is Expected to Serve As the “Foundation” to Reener- the Agenda Trade Show, Held Aug

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TALKING TED BRITISH BRAND TED BAKER MAKES A BIG STATEMENT ON NEW YORK’S FIFTH AVENUE. PAGE 6 ANNA PIAGGI DIES FASHION EDITOR WAS 81. PAGE 3

SYCAMORE’S STRATEGY Talbots Names Team To Direct Turnaround

By VICKI M. YOUNG

TALBOTS HAS A new executive team to go along with its new owner — both of which hope to turn the specialty retailer around. Michael Archbold is the new chief executive offi - WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY cer and chief fi nancial offi cer, effective immediately. Archbold is an industry veteran with more than 25 WWD years of experience, holding c-level positions. He was most recently president and chief operating offi cer of The Vitamin Shoppe. Prior posts include a stint as cfo and chief administrative offi cer of Saks Inc. In addition to Archbold, Lizanne Kindler was named president. Kindler, who joined Talbots in 2008 and left in 2010, was most recently executive vice president for product development at Kohl’s Corp. She also had a stint on the merchandising team at Ann Inc. before her fi rst tour of duty at Talbots. The fi nal new member of Talbots’ troika is Michele Mandell, who has been named chief operating offi cer. Mandell, who retired from Talbots in 2009, is a 26-year veteran of the retailer. Her last position at Talbots was executive vice president of stores. Sources familiar with the appointment said Mandell’s history with the com- GUY MARINEAU Surf Punk pany is expected to serve as the “foundation” to reener- The Agenda trade show, held Aug. 1 and 2 in gize the struggling business as it seeks to bridge the soul Long Beach, Calif., offered a fi rst look at the of Talbots with a modern vision to move forward. Archbold said, “By restoring the company’s focus spring action sports collections. Key trends on Talbots’ classic styling, we will be able to recon- AND LAGERFELD BY included brash patterns and aggressive colors nect with the company’s historical customer base. that look especially great in layers upon layers. Lizanne, Michele and I look forward to working close- ly with the other members of the Talbots’ leadership Here, Dakine’s Lycra spandex and polyester rash team and the company’s more than 8,000 committed

PIAGGI MOLONEY; guard, Lip Service’s nylon shirt and Hurley’s and hard-working associates to reestablish the brand as the category leader.” polyester skirt and nylon and Lycra leggings. Private equity ﬁ rm Sycamore Partners closed on McCallum surfboard; e4hats visor; Breathe its acquisition of The Talbots Inc. on Friday, a trans- Boardwear belt; Vans shoes. For more surf action that also ended the tenure of former ceo Trudy F. Sullivan. The transaction was valued at $391 mil- style, see pages 4 and 5. lion, including net debt. Following the deal’s close, SEE PAGE 12 G-III Buys Vilebrequin

By DAVID LIPKE

NEW YORK — G-III Apparel Group Ltd. is set to make a splash in the luxury swim market by acquiring Vilebrequin from Netherlands-based private equity fund Fashion Fund I B V. The deal is for a total purchase price of 85.5 million euros, or about $106.2 million, of which 70.5 million euros ($87.6 million) is in cash and another 15 million euros ($18.6 million) is in unsecured promis- sory notes, due Dec. 31, 2017, at an interest rate of 5 percent a year. NATALIE ASSISTANT: JACK CLARIZIO; FASHION JEN MYLES USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: In addition, the agreement stipulates contingent future payments of up to 22.5 million euros ($27.9 million) based upon set performance objectives over the MAKEUP BY three years ending Dec. 31, 2015, which could make the total deal worth up to $134.1 million. GROUP; “An opportunity to acquire a preeminent luxury brand such as Vilebrequin does not happen very often. Vilebrequin sets a global standard for excel- THE WALL lence and commands exceptional loyalty at a premium price in each of its markets,” said Morris SEIJI AT Goldfarb, chairman and chief executive ofﬁ cer of G-III Apparel Group. “We believe that this brand is very powerful and expect to add more retail locations throughout the world, as well as develop the business beyond its heritage in men’s swimwear, accessories and resort-wear.” Last year, Vilebrequin rang up sales of 45.1 million euros, or $55.9 million, with a substantial majority de- rived from the U.S. and Europe. There are currently 185 freestanding Vilebrequin stores and shops-in- PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODELS; HAIR BY MODEL: TANNER/MAJOR SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8, 2012

Yurman Bolsters Exec Ranks THE BRIEFING BOX David Yurman’s retail boutiques. A col- By RACHEL STRUGATZ ored version of the collection is already IN TODAY’S WWD carried exclusively at the brand’s stores NEW YORK — David Yurman is ex- (this includes four global shops-in-shop) panding its executive team, as the com- and the brand’s Web site. On the grounds pany’s chief executive officer Glen Senk Senk sees an opportunity to improve the of Lollapalooza details plans to fine tune the brand’s company’s supply chain management. He’s in Chicago. supply chain and bolster its digital and spent half of his first five months “out in the international presence. stores,” and said sales staff most often request Following Senk’s Feb. 27 appointment as that deliveries be more predictable, timely ceo and an investor in the company, three and containing complete collections. hires effective Monday were revealed: “This is an important part of taking great care William Paretti, chief marketing officer; with the customer — and having product when Brendon Lynch, vice president of retail, she wants it. This is not a sexy initiative, but it’s and Ruth Sommers, chief sourcing officer. an important one,” Senk said, adding that this is In early May, Jill Unruh was named chief where Sommers’ expertise in managing complex talent officer. supply chains for multichannel and multinational Prior to joining David Yurman, Paretti businesses — at her own company, Noi Solutions, as held the post of vice president of market- well as American Eagle, Ann Taylor and for 15 years SAWITOSKI ing at the LVMH subsidiary Moët Hennessy. at Limited Brands — will be useful. ERIC Before that, he was vice president of media Digital is another area Senk is focusing on — BY services at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis citing that within the luxury space, as many as PHOTO Vuitton for the U.S., Canada and Latin 70 percent of customers begin their journey on- The Talbots Inc. has a new executive team to go America and previously director of advertis- line. This means that a digital flagship must be along with its new owner — both of which hope to turn ing and marketing at Prada USA. reflective of the brand’s DNA, and tell the com- the specialty retailer around. PAGE 1 Lynch spent the past 17 years at pany’s story in a way that makes sense. He also

Anthropologie, most recently as executive pointed out that the younger consumer is the G-III Apparel Group Ltd. is set to make a splash in director of retail, where the business bal- fastest growing part of the business — an audi- the luxury swim market by acquiring Vilebrequin from looned from just two to 173 stores. Unruh, ence that’s extremely active across a range private equity fund Fashion Fund I BV. PAGE 1 whose responsibilities run the gamut of digital, social and commerce platforms. from recruiting, executive training, su- “It has to be as sensuous as the product is, Iconic fashion journalist Anna Piaggi died in Milan pervising and developing the review and right now we fall short. It’s an opportunity on Tuesday at the age of 81. PAGE 3 process and overseeing the general for us and we’re looking to do that,” Senk said, well-being of the employee population, noting that subtle changes have been imple- In the magazine cover sweepstakes, athletes joined the jewelry company in May from mented on davidyurman.com in the past sev- appear to be no match for the new three Ts: Urban Outfitters Inc., parent company eral months, but more drastic changes will twentysomethings, TV and “Twilight.” PAGE 9 of Anthropologie. Senk is the former be unveiled in the coming year. Jewelry from David Yurman. ceo of Urban Outfitters. “When I think of marketing, there Perry Ellis’ impact on American sportswear will be He told WWD that three of the four positions are are many, many aspects of marketing. I think of documented in a coffee-table book tentatively titled newly created, with the exception of Lynch’s post. branding and strategy and research, but also CRM, “Perry Ellis: An American Original.” PAGE 11 “I love the vision that David and Sybil [Yurman] database and digital marketing and social media,” have crafted. I am here to make sure that the foun- Senk said. “Billy [Paretti], besides being very left dation is in place, support their vision and almost brain-right brain and very creative, has very deep ON WWD.COM put a magnifying glass on this vision to make sure and substantial functional experience.” that we have got the right structure in place and that North America is by far the almost 33-year-old THEY ARE WEARING: It’s been 21 years since Perry we methodically execute it,” Senk said. company’s biggest market, but it also has a presence Farrell founded Lollapalooza, and the sartorial scene He maintained that business is “very healthy,” in Europe and Asia. Of the five points of distribu- at the most recent festival, held Aug. 3 to 5 in and beyond product development, the company’s tion the company maintains in those regions — its Chicago, has come full circle. For more photos, focus going forward will be on continued innovation first freestanding international store was at Hong see WWD.com/fashion-news. for direct to consumer and retail channels, as well Kong’s International Finance Center and it’s car- as increasing the brand’s presence internationally. ried at two shops-in-shop in Lane Crawford in Hong TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Senk called the new 20-style Labyrinth collec- Kong and Printemps in Paris — sales are healthy, [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. tion, which made its debut at Baselworld and The according to Senk. He acknowledged that these mar- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Couture Show earlier this year and retails from kets have yet to be aggressively pursued. VOLUME 204, NO. 27. WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8 , 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) i s published daily (except Saturdays, $625 to $8,500, the “biggest launch in the history of “If you look at other luxury brands, your logic Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine the company.” The diamond Silver Ice Labyrinth would tell you that there’s an enormous opportunity Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: offerings will be available exclusively at Neiman for us outside North America,” Senk said, adding S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals Marcus and neimanmarcus.com beginning Aug. 15 that the addition of these hires will help tackle in- postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. for a month before distribution widens to all 23 of ternational expansion. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes Esprit Taps Inditex Veteran as New CEO or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are est indication” is that Martinez will “For the time being, we want to ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy By ELLEN SHENG start his new job at Esprit in mid- to focus on maintaining our very suc- of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions late September. He will be based in cessful operation in Europe while requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles HONG KONG — Esprit Holdings Ratingen, Germany. The company aggressively investing in Asia, which please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide We b ,visit www.fairchildpub.com. Ltd. said Tuesday it has named also said Tuesday that it may look is, on a macro basis, the growth re- Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that Inditex veteran Jose Manuel to expand its board by one or two. gion of the world today. We’re not we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT Martinez Gutiérrez as its new Esprit’s new appointment comes going to neglect Europe in any way RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED chief executive officer and execu- as the company is in the midst of a at all, because Europe is still a very MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND tive director, replacing the de- dramatic restructuring plan, which important part of our business. As for TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY parting Ronald Van der Vis. was introduced in 2011. Speaking North America, for the time being, REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER The appointment comes just to members of the media Tuesday, we will take a rest. That does not MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. a few months after Van Der Vis Cheng said there may be some “fine- mean that at some time in the future, and Esprit’s then-chairman Hans- tuning” of the restructuring plan. we will not go back to that market.” Joachim Körber both resigned un- “Any plan, no matter how well The sudden departure of the expectedly, sending Esprit shares thought out, sometimes will need chief executive and chairman Gl bal sourcinG into a steep downward spiral and to make some adjustments as we earlier this year left investors octobEr 2, 2012 // nEw york city prompting questions about the un- go along. But I think it’s too early to and analysts speculating if there derperforming retailer’s future. tell, as far as what Jose intends to do, had been disagreement about The news gave Esprit shares a because we need to give him time the turnaround plan. Executives significant jolt. They gained 28 per- to review the plan. He should talk denied this during a hastily orga- cent to close at 12.76 Hong Kong to the current senior management nized conference call with jour- dollars, or $1.65, on Tuesday. team, and together they will decide nalists and analysts in June. Van Martinez has held a variety of on whether there is any need for der Vis said he was leaving his “senior positions” at Zara’s corpo- fine-tuning of the plan,” Cheng said. post for personal reasons, and his rate parent, Inditex, Esprit said. Under Van der Vis, Esprit set and Körber’s resignations were Most recently he was group direc- out to improve the “fashionabil- coincidental. Van der Vis said the tor of distribution and operations. ity” of its brand and focus on Asia company’s restructuring plan was Prior to that, he oversaw Zara’s and select European markets on track and making progress. business in Scandinavia. Before for future growth. In February, With two senior executives hav- JAnEt Fox Amy HAll joining Inditex, he led McKinsey the company said it planned to ing backed out citing personal com- UndEr ArmoUr EilEEn FisHEr inc. & Co.’s retail and consumer goods shutter all of its stores in North mitments, Cheng emphasized that practice in Spain. America by the end of March. Martinez and Thomas Tang, Esprit’s Esprit’s nonexecutive deputy Cheng defended those moves new chief financial officer, have wwd.com/sourcing12 212.630.5926 chairman Paul Cheng said the “lat- Tuesday. made a commitment to stay on. WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8, 2012 3 WWD.COM OBITUARY Fashion Editor Anna Piaggi, 81

By Luisa Zargani and Cynthia Martens Anna Piaggi in 1978. MiLan — iconic fashion journalist anna Piaggi died here tuesday, aged 81. her eccentric style was un- missable — an inspired mash up of countries and centuries that combined furs, kimonos, vintage opera costumes from La scala and huge accessories, always worn with blue hair, boldly colorful makeup and hats. it made her a muse to many, including Karl Lagerfeld in the seventies and eighties. although she was small, curvy and soft-spoken, her look was larger than life. she might wear decades-old Worth, Callot soeurs or Fortuny dresses or new Missoni t-shirts, paper skirts and Lagerfeld’s designs for Chloé. she collected all sorts of objects — curtains, pieces of fabric and sofa covers — throughout her life and travels, and was never afraid to wear them. “the world of fashion has lost one of its most origi- Piaggi and Karl nal and subtly critical figures,” said giorgio armani. MICHEL MAUROU Lagerfeld at a Kenzo “anna Piaggi knew how to take a very italian way of shop party, 1978. living and thinking fashion and make it international,

turning it into the highest expression of art and cul- PHOTO BY ture. i will miss her unmistakable presence, free of all conventions, in the front row, and her way of seeing things, which was always passionate and able to catch the spirit of the times.” “i am truly saddened by the passing of anna Piaggi,” said Donatella Versace. “she was a visionary with a heart of gold. the world is a little less colorful without her.”

“to me, fashion is a trance,” Piaggi told WWD in GIANNI LAMI 1978. “it is a moment, an expression. My philosophy of fashion is humor, jokes and games. and i make my own rules. i never pick up something and just throw it on PHOTO BY my back like that. there’s a little bit of study, and it’s always better if i think about what i’m going to wear the night before the next day. and what is to be avoided at all costs is the twinset look, the total look.” Vintage pieces always played an important role. “i must say it is more economical to dress from the antique auction houses than Paris couturiers,” she noted. “i have dresses that should be in museums that only cost me $50.” her fascination with style began early. “My nature has always been to be superficial,” she recalled. “ i never think too much or make statements. i just stay on the edge of things. i have always made decisions by instinct and for the feeling, not by analyzed thought. Yves Saint My favorite thing as a young girl was to read Photoplay Laurent and and Movieland. it was not for the actors. it was to di- Piaggi, 1989. gest all the details. “if i could be something else, i would like to be a new type of queen. it’s the theory of queenship that i modern views paved the way for many journalists to dream of. i love the atmosphere, the clothes.…i never come. But years after computers became the norm, think of money, just style and power.” Piaggi continued to write on a red Olivetti Valentine Piaggi began her career as a translator at the manual typewriter, a design by ettore sottsass, which Mondadori publishing house, before becoming fashion became a style icon in itself. director of the italian magazine arianna in the sixties. “i seem to have caused several controversies,” in 1962, she married photographer alfa Castaldi, al- she told WWD in 1978. “i once did an editorial with ready an established figure in Milan, and the two re- Valentino couture with guns that had antique mother- mained together until his death in 1995. it was during of-pearl inlay handles. his collection looked very Mata her tenure at arianna that Piaggi noticed the then- hari to me.” then there was the shoot in a Catholic fledgling brand Missoni and featured it on a 1967 cover church with a model in a rented nun’s coif and habit. of the magazine. “People inside the church were very disturbed. the “i am more than pained,” said rosita Missoni of moment we began to take the pictures, a terrible storm Piaggi’s death. “she came and discovered us when we roared over the church. rain came crashing through a were working for La rinascente, and we became good hole in the roof. the photographer was almost shocked MARINEAU

friends, lifelong friends, [spending] more than 50 years to death by his wires, which were hit by lightning.” Piaggi with Tai and GUY together, often traveling and vacationing together.” a prolific, enthusiastic contributor to publications Rosita Missoni, 1982. the designer recalled how, even during their holi- such as Vanity, Panorama and L’espresso, Piaggi attract- days in Dalmatia, “when a swimsuit and a pareo would ed the admiration of Lagerfeld, who said of her in 1978, PHOTO BY be more than enough, she would create these looks, and “it is not so much the details in her clothes that inspire Boselli added. “she was unique, offered something rare my kids would play along, make light for her in the pitch me directly. it is the exquisite blend of sophistication and we will miss her dearly.” dark, so that she could parade her outfits.…she always with this healthy peasant mind.” that year, giancarlo “One of the reasons for me being where i am today needed her stage.” giammetti also said, “anna Piaggi is the most influen- was signora Piaggi,” said Manolo Blahnik. “she was Missoni said Piaggi had always been very eccen- tial person in italian fashion.” in 1986, Lagerfeld dedi- a guiding light in my life, and a great friend. she re- tric. “anna told me that, even when she was five or six, cated a book to her, “anna Chronique,” which features defined clothes as an art form on herself. i am dev- dressing up was part of her games, she really enjoyed his sketches of Piaggi’s imaginary adventures, with com- astated that she is no longer with us and she will be that and she always very rigorous about it, thinking mentary by the fashion muse herself. forever missed.” of thousands of details. she was the queen of acces- London’s Victoria and albert Museum celebrated “From the very beginning of my career when we sories.” Piaggi was “very ironic, she made fun of her- her in 2006 with the “anna Piaggi Fashion-ology” ex- met on a shoot of Manolo’s shoes and my hats for her self — but did not allow others to make fun of her. she hibit, which displayed thousands of her gowns and magazine ‘Vanity,’ she has been a guiding light and an was a unique journalist; people recognized her, and shoes alongside drawings, photographs and storyboards inspiration,” said milliner stephen Jones. “her effer- she was always surrounded by photographers. she was that brought to life her collaborations and friendships vescence and inventiveness was unequaled in every- very intelligent, a perfectionist and had a deep knowl- with figures such as fashion historian Vern Lambert, thing she did — writing, styling and, of course, how edge of fashion.” Lagerfeld, illustrator antonio Lopez and photographer she looked. so often she would call me and say, ‘ah in the seventies, Piaggi moved on to Vogue, where Bill Cunningham. — stephen, i am doing a wonderful thing, and i need she worked with photographers such as Chris von When told of Piaggi’s death, other figures in fashion a new hat.’ i visited her apartment just two weeks ago Wangenheim and gian Paolo Barbieri. in 1988, she were quick to offer their condolences. when we were making plans for her visiting the men’s began writing her cult Vogue column “D.P. Doppie recalling his first meeting with Piaggi in the eighties shows in London in January. she was not only my muse, Pagine di anna Piaggi,” which took its name from the in split, Croatia, Camera della Moda president Mario but a talisman for all those around the world who be- double-page layout of fashion spreads and eventually Boselli said Piaggi was a true original, whose “extreme- lieve that fashion is a way of life, and that freedom of led to a book, “anna Piaggi’s Fashion algebra.” ly unusual outfits were like works of art. expression should manifest itself in what we wear.” her sense of humor, unapologetic quirkiness and “i knew her well and greatly appreciated her,” — With contributions from samantha conti

w08a003a;13.indd 1 8/7/12 7:33 PM 08072012193421 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8, 2012

Hurley’s nylon Windbreaker with Basta Surf’s nylon and Lycra bikini top and Body Glove’s polyester boardshorts. Oakley sunglasses; Nixon headphones.

Endless Summer You don’t have to be a Z-boy (or girl) to appreciate classic beachwear. Designers are riding the wave for spring with everything from ﬂoral boardshorts to cozy après-surf knits.

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Original Jams’ cotton Quiksilver’s cashmere bra top and shorts. cardigan, cotton ﬂannel shirt Lookmatic sunglasses; and cotton denim shorts Nixon watch; with Lucy Love’s polyester Miansai by Michael tank top. Revo sunglasses; Saiger bracelets. Seavees slip-ons.

O’Neill’s cotton sweatshirt with Roxy’s nylon and elastane bikini top and Billabong’s linen pants. Roxy hat; Reef backpack; Native Treasure necklace; Dizm sunglasses; Miansai by Michael Saiger bracelets; Sanuk ﬂip-ﬂops. MOLONEY NATALIE ASSISTANT: JACK CLARIZIO; FASHION JEN MYLES USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: GROUP; MAKEUP BY THE WALL SEIJI AT MODELS; HAIR BY MODEL: TANNER/MAJOR 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8, 2012 WWD.COM ChinaFile Ted Baker Opens on Fifth Ave. The Long March By Jean e. PaLMIeRI neW YORK — Ted has taken up residence on Fifth avenue. Quirky british brand Ted Of China Design baker London on Thursday will open a three-story, I have been follow- So young designers 7,000-square-foot flagship ing Chinese design- ChinaFile turn to imported fab- at 595 Fifth avenue at 48th ers for more than five ric to raise their prod- Street in Midtown Manhattan. years now. I thought uct’s quality. and still, The store, which is the brand’s maybe, by now, I would Chinese import tax is largest unit in the U.S., has have witnessed the suc- extremely high. been designed to replicate a cess of half-a-dozen de- all this has in- traditional London townhouse signers. not so. creased the retail price of the Twenties. It features art here are some of for the work of Chinese Deco design details including an elaborate although Ted baker has a strong men’s the obstacles to the designers. although metal staircase with messages written on business, Kelvin expects women’s mer- commercial viability the market has shown a the steps and bespoke printed wallpaper, chandise to account for about 60 per- of Chinese design. To hunger for new brands along with exposed brick walls, a three- cent of sales at the store. “but both will start, Chinese designers and curiosity about story glass chandelier and an elaborate perform admirably,” he said. “There are have problems getting by Huang Hung local design talent, it digital window installation that includes more women walking by, but the men’s the fabric they want. is not ready to pay the a huge clock with pendulums and moving wear is breathtaking.” same price tag as foreign brands for cogs and a screen that will display movies, The store also features some exclusive Marsha Ma Chinese design. photos and animation. products, such as lace bodice ballgowns another interesting problem is “This is quite a big thing for us,” said for $790 to $1,840; high-collar wool heritage manufacturing. Marsha Ma belongs Ray Kelvin, founder and chief executive jackets for $405, and an oversize crocodile- to a co-op of designers called One by officer. “I started this business in my kitch- print handbag for $600. exclusive men’s One. Three designers teamed together en 25 years ago and to now have a store on products include a heritage wool jacket to own and operate a sewing facility. Fifth avenue is unbelievable. [It] puts us with patch pockets and a Flying Scotsman Marsha said they are in the process in the heart of one of the world’s premier train lining for $550; tweed and herring- of moving to a fancy new facility and a shopping districts. The location will give bone jackets with built-in pocket squares much-expanded operation. One of the those new to the brand a healthy dose of for $460 to $550; jersey cardigans with built- reasons for moving is to have a larger, the retail theater and rich detailing that in pocket squares for $199; a suit with built- better looking facility. we have become known for, and our regu- in silk pocket squares for $920, and cotton “It’s very difficult hiring workers,” lars the sense of place that they have be- jackets with british boxing linings and as- Marsha Ma, a designer based in said Marsha. “You need to have a fancy come accustomed to with Ted.” sorted vintage sport club badges for $460. Shanghai went to China Sichuan place to show them you are for real. The Fifth avenue flagship marks the Kelvin declined to provide a volume province to source silk. She wanted Otherwise they won’t work for you.” 18th store for the brand in america and projection for the store, but said it is ex- to work with weavers who can make Last but not least is the lack of buy- its third in Manhattan, following the pected to be profitable. “It was a big invest- fabric according to her specifications ers in China for retail. Department Meatpacking District and Soho. each ment,” he said. “but we have a plan that is and design. Unfortunately, she found stores operate as shopping malls in store is unique and designed to fit into the achievable.” he said the company is “not out that most silk weavers have closed China. So designers have learned neighborhood in which it is located. big enough” to support a showcase store their businesses and shipped the to manage retail operations as well. equipment off to India or bangladesh. Successful local retail names are more She was told that selling the silk co- high-street brands created by former coons to Indian merchants is less exporters. The new retail sensation work and better money for these Ochirly is more of an h&M look-alike, Chinese companies than weaving the rather than a Chinese designer brand. fabric themselves. The finished fab- With the current downturn in ric is often re-imported into China the Chinese economy, designers are for dyeing purposes. Marsha tried scrambling to make products cheaper offering a very high price for a small and more accessible for Chinese con- 200-meter order and was flatly turned sumers. This means cutting corners down. The owner said: “It’s not worth on fabric quality, hiring cheaper and the trouble.” Marsha noted that most less-skilled workers, etc. In many ways, young designers want to experiment the little progress Chinese design with fabric and technology. however, has made in the past few years might factories in China are very reluctant have to take a step backwards. So, it to collaborate. It’s too much work for looks like a long march from “made in too little money. China” to “designed in China.”

Looks inside Ted Baker Fossil Shares Surge 31.5% London’s Manhattan flagship. This store brings to life the company’s that doesn’t carry its weight. “If it doesn’t and chief executive officer, on a confer- interpretation of “Ted’s Grand house.” deliver, it will have a material effect on the By evan CLaRK ence call with analysts. “Our aim has Shoppers enter the grand hall where company,” he said. been to develop great product, aug- men’s and women’s apparel and accesso- Faith hope Consolo, chairman of beTTeR WaTCh sales propelled Fossil ment our global infrastructure and a ries share the space. vintage-looking por- the Retail Group of Prudential Douglas Inc. to stronger-than-expected second- faster growth across our multiple chan- traits with a twist hang from the walls and elliman, estimated the rent for that loca- quarter gains — and the company sees nels of distribution.” include images of women with moustaches tion would be between $4 million and $5 an opening in the asian market, where The company’s biggest opportunity or tea cakes on their heads and a young million a year, and “to make a profit, the luxe brands are boosting their prices. for growth is in asia. child with a Mohawk. benchmark is 10 times the rent.” net income attributable to Fossil “Over the last several years, there’s “It’s not just a shop fit,” Kelvin said. For the year ended Jan. 28, profits at rose 11.5 percent to $57.3 million, or been a large white space developing “It’s a home. We want people to come in Ted baker plc rose 11.7 percent to 27.1 92 cents a diluted share, from $51.4 in asia for watches and accessories and feel comfortable.” million pounds, or $42.3 million at current million, or 80 cents, a year earlier. as luxury brands continue to elevate Men’s wear has its own home on the lower exchange, on a 14.9 percent rise in sales to earnings per share came in 14 cents prices due to the strong demand for level in a space designed to mimic a scullery, 215.6 million pounds, or $336.5 million. better than the 78 cents analysts pro- these categories,” Kartsotis said. complete with dozens of butler’s bells on the Kelvin said opening on Fifth avenue jected, pushing the stock up 31.5 per- “Specifically for watches, as the pric- walls, pots and pans at the bottom of display “sets a global scene” for the brand and po- cent to $91.77, its biggest jump in more es and demand have risen for Swiss racks, upside down jelly molds hanging from sitions it “on a world stage. We never ad- than 19 years as a public company. watches, [it] has created a large oppor- the ceiling and a silver service at the cash vertise, and our p.r. is very controlled, but Sales for the three months ended tunity for our products in the region.” wrap. The store is opening with the com- the footfall here is incredible. It’s not just June 30 increased 14.3 percent to $636.1 For the full year, Fossil said its ad- pany’s fall collection of tailored clothing and america, it’s the world.” million from $556.7 million. The april ac- justed ePS would range from $5.29 to sportswear in heritage fabrics that recall the For the opening weekend, 30 maids and quisition of Skagen Designs added $25.2 $5.34, ahead of the $5.28 Wall Street great english outdoors. butlers will walk the streets of Midtown million to the second-quarter sales line. had penciled in. The women’s department is upstairs handing out keys to Ted’s home and helping Worldwide sales of watches in- even so, Kartsotis acknowledged and is reminiscent of a lady’s boudoir with passersby by shining their shoes, hailing cabs creased 23.3 percent in constant dol- that the company was, in effect, reduc- fans on the walls and a cash wrap that and using feather dusters on their packages. lars with contributions from most of ing its guidance for the second half. looks like a vanity table. Fitting rooms fea- Ted baker has more than 300 locations the firm’s major brands. “Most of this is due to the U.S. dollar ture floor to ceiling velvet curtains. The on five continents and recently opened “at just less than $3 billion in sales being much stronger,” the ceo said. “In fall women’s collection features a “town stores in Singapore and hong Kong. projected for 2012 we’ve nearly dou- addition to that, there is a lot of uncer- meets country” theme and includes ev- additional units will be added in Toronto, bled our top line in just three years tainty and lack of visibility in the glob- erything from the Working Title tailored beijing, Shanghai and Kuwait by the end time,” said Kosta Kartsotis, chairman al marketplace.” pieces to eveningwear. of the year.

w08a006a;11.indd 1 8/7/12 7:03 PM 08072012190450 SEPTEMBER 19, 2012 \\ ASIA SOCIETY & MUSEUM, NYC

BARNEYS NEW YORK SEPHORA REBECCA MINKOFF LLC NEIMAN MARCUS GROUP Daniella Vitale Julie Bornstein Uri Minkoff Wanda Gierhart

DSW DESIGNER SHOE TARGET WAREHOUSE EBAGS.COM OPTAROS Dustee Jenkins Kelly Cook Peter Cobb Rob Willms

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PERFORMANCE MEDIA GROUP 8 WWD wednesday, august 8, 2012 WWD.COM denim Cher Coulter Helps Launch AG Stylist Series

headquarters here. “We wanted stylists-turned-jean genies. “The same pattern on the front panels By KHANH T.L. TRAN to partner with people who bring actual manipulation of the fab- and back yoke. Then you have a unique perspective to denim.” ric is endless, whether it’s a foil the girl like Huntington-Whiteley, SOUTH GATe, calif. — While coulter is no stranger to AG. print or embroidery or painted who is proud of her body, donning collaborations of all stripes Not only did she style a cou- or latticed or laser-cut.” Sex Bomb styles including a stud- have proliferated across the ple of look books and this past coulter’s designs will be car- ded miniskirt and skinny cropped fashion industry over the spring’s ad campaign for the ried in key department stores and jeans that expose the side of the past five years, AG Adriano brand, but she often outfitted specialty shops in the U.S. and leg through lattice cutouts bor- Goldschmied has been on the her clients — including Kate overseas, as well as in AG’s 10 dered by white embroidery. sidelines as other designers and Bosworth, elizabeth Olsen and freestanding stores and on its Web “i want this to be the begin- brands dominated the partner- Rosie Huntington-Whiteley — site. Retailing for $200 to $300, the ning [of more design projects],” ship sweepstakes — until now. in the jeans. She’s also versed collection is divided into four cap- coulter said. “i’d love to do a The premium denim label is in the craft of making clothes, sule groups, each evoking one of full range.” kicking off a series of high-pro- having studied fashion design at her famous clients. For the AG + Liberty Art file collaborations to succeed its London’s central Saint martins For instance, the eclectic Fabrics collaboration, Ku and last joint effort in 1997, when it and cofounded a British men’s grouping, inspired by Bosworth, his team used three patterns of designed men’s jeans for the hit wear brand called AKA. Two channels an artistic Bohemian tiny, medium-size and big flowers HBO comedy “entourage.” This years ago, she began produc- with high-rise floral jacquard cut- printed on italian textiles in vary- month, AG began shipping gar- ing affordable jewelry with off shorts and a shredded denim ing shades of blue. Because the ment-dyed stretch sateen pants Bosworth for the subscription- jacket enhanced with an embroi- Liberty fabrics cost three times and denim jeans for men’s golf based line Jewelmint. That dery of a giant hummingbird on more than conventional materi- label Travis mathew. in January, coulter had never designed SARDELLA DONATO the back. Nicole Richie, daugh- als, retail prices for the collection it plans to inaugurate its AG jeans before didn’t deter AG. ter of singer Lionel Richie and will sit on the higher end. Jeans

Stylist Series with celebrity styl- “She had a very casual and PHOTO BY wife of Good charlotte front man and shorts will retail for between ist cher coulter. A month later, denim-friendly aesthetic,” Ku White vest and printed jeans from Joel madden, lent credence to the $200 and $220 and the waist-tied AG will release a flurry of floral- said. “i knew she had a smart AG Adriano Goldschmied’s new Rocker offerings, which include shirtdress will run up to $275. printed jeans, shorts, work shirts, take on what looks good.” collaboration with celebrity stylist a white denim vest with frayed While the project with dresses, rompers and fringed For a denim novice, coulter Cher Coulter. sleeves and black foil treatment Liberty Art Fabrics is intended scarves as the first denim col- had a million ideas. After AG ini- on faded black jeans and shorts. to last only one season, the AG laborator for Liberty Art Fabrics. tiated conversations with her last spected each new design before For women who like French la- Stylist Series will continue after “We wanted to get a fresh October about designing denim, AG cut the jeans. bels such as maje, Sandro and coulter with other creative perspective,” said Sam Ku, AG’s the Brit stayed in Los Angeles “That’s what i love about A.p.c., there’s the classic selec- minds in fashion and the arts. creative director, surrounded by over the christmas holiday to denim — it’s a fun canvas,” tion personified by rising star “We weren’t settling on celeb- samples from coulter’s 14-piece work on the line. Averaging a said coulter, who joins emily Olsen; key looks are a boxy denim rity stylists only,” Ku said. “We collection and the 15-item Liberty visit to AG’s 450,000-square-foot current, merritt elliott and jacket printed with tiny butterflies also want artists who act as styl- lineup in the middle of AG’s factory every two weeks, she in- Taylor Jacobson in the ranks of and cuffed shorts that display the ists on the collaboration.” Doreen Panzer Joins Silver Jeans Klum Back for New Jordache Campaign SiLVeR JeANS cO. is strengthening in a number of east coast and West street in the heels she was wearing.” its bench. coast markets,” Silver said. “We By ARNOLD J. KARR While last year’s return to TV gave The Winnipeg, canada-based need a higher profile and greater Jordache a chance to recapture some of denim and sportswear firm has named penetration in certain department SOme JeANS cOmpANieS might go back its past — picking up on the original jingle Doreen panzer to the new post of store chains, something Doreen has further with their celebrity spokesmod- and moving the brand through its vari- president of its wholesale division. done in her prior positions. We need els, but few go deeper than Jordache and ous phases since it was founded in 1978 michael Silver, who had held the po- to build up increases with our prod- Heidi Klum. — the new campaign puts the 39-year-old sition of president, be- uct assortment, such Five years after an association that “project Runway” host into a less nostal- comes chief executive as tops for both gen- spurred an advertising campaign as well as a gic environment, backed by an updated officer of the company. ders and bottoms for capsule collection under the Jordache brand, Seventies-style soundtrack from Brooklyn’s An 18-year veteran men. Both areas are Klum is back for an encore as the face — and ian Love. Reprising his role from last year, of Warnaco Group advancing but need choreographed body — of the brand in the ink & co.’s Sam Sohaili conceived the ads inc.’s calvin Klein more growth.” company’s largest advertising campaign to with input from Jordache owner Shaul Jeans unit, panzer He noted that the date. it’s also the first in 20 years in which it’s Nakash, who initiated contact with Klum. was most recently vice expansion of the ex- hitting television and print. in the ads, Klum dons four looks from president of sales with ecutive team follows a Jordache declined to disclose the amount the Jordache collection, starting with a red responsibility for the period of reflection on of the media investment. The brand, among jean and moving into a superskinny. “We’re missy, plus and petites its mission and refine- the first to market higher-priced jeans pushing a young missy product here, and divisions. earlier in ment of its merchan- through TV advertising, returned to TV last Heidi is a great fit,” Berlinger said. her career, she worked dising and marketing. year in a campaign featuring “30 Rock” cast The campaign will be aired through na- at macy’s inc., Ann inc. Updating the com- member Katrina Bowden. tional, local and cable buys, as well as in and Anne Klein. pany’s retail plans, The ads, in support of an expanded the pages of inStyle, cosmopolitan, Latina Her appointment Silver said he and his collection of Jordache available at Wal- and people StyleWatch. follows the addition in retail team soon will mart Stores inc.’s 3,678 Wal-mart units in Berlinger said the jeans assortment ar- may of Denise Norkus Doreen be talking with mall the U.S., were shot by longtime Klum col- riving in Wal-mart stores later this month in- as vice president of re- Panzer operators about pos- laborator Rankin in New York and cho- cludes a full range of colors, as well as skinny tail with responsibility sible store openings. reographed by mia michaels of “So Yo u silhouettes, stretch fabrics, a smattering of for the company’s retail “We’re hitting the road Think Yo u can Dance” darker indigo and a range rollout, which is scheduled to begin in in the next few weeks,” he said, “and renown. previews of of six-stitch back-pocket mid-2013. we’re on schedule to open stores next the campaign go live Jordache’s ideas, all for $16.44. Like Norkus, panzer reports to summer or in early fall 2013. We’ve today with the TV ads print ad She noted that Silver. Reporting to panzer will be already been working on issues like set to break on or about with Heidi Jordache will look to the vice president of U.S. sales, Kim store design, retail strategy and finan- Aug. 20. Final produc- Klum. expand the Wal-mart of- carter, and carter’s counterpart in cial projections.” tion details and the fering into categories canada, mark Whyte. Silver’s sales Silver in may said that it would media schedule are such as tops, lingerie and sales support team numbers about open 25 to 30 stores, with a typical still being determined. and accessories through 16. About 75 percent of sales are with footprint of 1,600 to 2,000 square feet, “Heidi’s beautiful internal expansion and U.S. accounts, with the remainder in in the next five years and 50 over and a great business- licensing arrangements. canada and international markets. the course of the next decade. The woman and designer, The brand has plans Silver told WWD that panzer’s ad- company currently operates a single and she also turns out on its agenda beyond dition will help achieve some imme- store, a 1,900-square-foot unit in the to be an amazing danc- Wal-mart. picking up diate company goals as well as help park meadow center outside Denver. er with great stamina,” on the success of the identify objectives for the future as Founded 21 years ago, Silver is a said Liz Berlinger, company’s U.S. polo the company looks to move beyond division of Western Glove Works, a president of Jordache. Assn. brand, which al- its current annual sales base of about 90-year-old enterprise started and “She danced from 10 ready operates about $160 million. operated by the Silver family. Typical in the morning until 70 stores, Jordache “We already have some specific price points are $80 to $100 for jeans, midnight in 5-inch retail stores are in wholesale strategies in place in $39 to $79 for tops and $89 to $119 for heels. i’d have a hard the planning stage, terms of increasing our penetration outerwear. — A.J.K. time walking down the Berlinger said.

w08a008a.indd 1 8/7/12 6:39 PM 08072012184033 10 FOR MAWI: The jewelry brand is celebrating its anniversary with a retrospective selection of limited-edition WWD STYLE pieces. PAGE 11

® THEY ARE WEARING

Lolla Land Neither scorching temperatures nor a two-and-a-half-hour storm evacuation could stop Lollapalooza lovers from looking effortlessly cool. The music festival, held Aug. 3 to 5 in Chicago’s Grant Park, brought in 141 bands, 270,000 fans and loads of great style. For more, see page 10. PHOTO BY ERIC SAWITOSKI

in total newsstand sales for the “New Girl,” Zooey Deschanel, MEMO PAD first half, according to the Audit was a blockbuster for Marie Bureau of Circulations, which Claire with 247,354, while Ashley ‘TWILIGHT’ STARS STAND OUT, released the data on Tuesday. Benson of “Pretty Little Liars,” ATHLETES DON’T: Vogue has an Where Vogue did have a hit helped Teen Vogue sell 129,114 uneasy relationship with sports. was in music: its March cover copies, its second best of the Athletes rarely appear on the featuring Adele sold 410,000, year, 19 percent above its aver- cover, much less male ones, and well above the average. age. Lauren Conrad, a perennial when they do, the results are ABC won’t release audited bestseller for Glamour, sold unflattering. Remember that monthly breakdowns until later 500,072 on its swimsuit issue, unfortunate LeBron James cover? this year, but from its unaudited or 18 percent above its six- Before him, you’d have to go Rapid Report data, some trends month average. Skewing young back to 2001 to find another ath- are evident. resulted in bestsellers for lete cover model — Marion Jones. The declines underscore that Cosmopolitan (Scarlett Johansson, In June, the magazine tried no matter how dynamic a cover, in January), Elle (Blake Lively, to raise the topic again, and it’s going to have a hard time in March), Teen Vogue (“Dark again it failed to score. Its standing out at the checkout Shadows” actress Chloë Grace Olympics-themed issue, fea- counter. If there’s one reliable Moretz in January/December), turing a patriotic “Team USA” indicator of success, it’s to gun and Town & Country, which put headline and a grinning Ryan for the new three T’s: twenty- a three-decades-old portrait Scarlett Johansson on the cover of Cosmopolitan; Hope Solo, Ryan Lochte Lochte, Serena Williams and Hope somethings, TV and “Twilight.” of Ali MacGraw on the cover in and Serena Williams on the cover of Vogue. Solo, was its weakest performer The movie franchise gave February. Vanity Fair had its so far this year, moving about Lucky and Seventeen their best cover of the first half with Cameron Diaz, in May, gave InStyle (148,434 in June/July). 202,000 copies at the newsstand, best-selling covers (March a vampy Marilyn Monroe in its best-selling covers, about Let’s take the temperature or 33 percent below its six- and December/January, re- June, selling about 353,000, a 1 794,000 and 538,000, respec- of who’s not hot: Kim Kardashian month average. The issue was spectively). Kristen Stewart also percent jump from last June. tively; its six-month average is fizzled for both Allure (117,000 one of several weak months for gave Elle its second best so Here’s a news flash for edi- about 545,000. And Kate Moss still in March, 7 percent below the Vogue, which, alongside Condé far, with the June issue selling tors, though: Women at or ap- retains star power — she flew off average) and Glamour (the Nast titles Lucky and Allure, about 217,000, 9 percent above proaching their 40s still do sell. newsstands for W (27,302 copies January cover with her sisters experienced double-digit drops its six-month average. TV’s Jennifer Aniston, in March, and in March) and Harper’s Bazaar {Continued on page 11} 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8, 2012

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

® THEY ARE WEARING

Jessica Dobson of The Shins.

LOLLA LAND It’s been 21 years since Perry Farrell founded Lollapalooza, and the sartorial scene at the most recent festival has come full circle. Denim cutoffs, neon brights and boho dresses stole the show, along with a few pairs of Chuck Perry and Etty Farrell Taylors and Dr. Martens for classic measure. — Beth Wilson

Nonie Andersen of Purple Apple. eye ERIC SAWITOSKI

Jack White PHOTOS BY WWD, WEDNESDAY,WWD AUGUSTwednesday, 8, 2012 august 8, 2012 11 1 WWD.COM

NEW yOrK ENErGy: This fall marks the that allows readers to play with the relaunch of the ICB collection with artist’s signature bright dots. The Fashion scoops Prabal Gurung as chief designer. The app was art directed by Jonny Lu, and collection, which hasn’t been sold in showcases a fashion film shot by Angelo the U.S. in more than a decade, is being Pennetta and styled by Love’s editor in PErry’S BOOK: Perry Ellis’ impact on “We kept the overall shapes and reintroduced to women in the U.S. with chief Katie Grand. American sportswear earned him a designs and focused on updating them a new ad campaign featuring models Grand said Lu and the app “used place in fashion history books. Now, by adding new components, changing Katryn Kruger and Laura Kampman that was never-before-seen ideas and has taken 26 years after his death, Jeffrey Banks, crystal shapes, colorways and plating photographed by Sebastian Kim. It will nearly a year to develop it. Although Doria de La Chapelle and Erica Lennard, the finishes,” Keivom said of the offerings, break in the September issue of Vogue, it looks so simple, building ‘the back’ photographer behind many of Ellis’ which range in price from about $235 to and wider distribution will follow in has been hugely complex.” Readers campaigns, are putting together a more than $3,000. Japan and Asia. who subscribe to Love on their iPads coffee-table book on Ellis and his work. She maintained that the biggest Gurung said he wanted to center will automatically receive the app with The idea of “Perry Ellis: An American milestone to date was opening the first the campaign in New York because he Issue 8. Others will be able to download Original” (the working title) came flagship in Shoreditch in East London believes the “ICB girl” thrives on the the free app from the Apple Store. to Banks and de La Chapelle when last year. creative energy of her surroundings and — LOrELEi MArFiL they were putting together “Preppy,” The costume jewelry collection was there was no better place to capture their most recent book, and looking first presented to the public at London that than to include images of Ellis’ work. “We Fashion Week in 2003, when it went on in the city wanted to use a couple of pictures of to win the British Fashion Council’s that never Perry, and could not find them,” Banks New Generation award three seasons sleeps. The said. “Someone suggested we call Erica in a row. In addition to an e-commerce collection will Lennard. She kept everything.” store at mawi.co.uk, the collection is be available The authors are currently knee- carried in about 120 stores in more than at select deep in the research phase and already 70 countries. Barneys New spoke to a wide range of people, from Keivom revealed that the label’s York stores Barbara Gallagher, who had a daughter, men’s line, Sir by Mawi, is relaunching nationwide Tyler, with the designer, to Polly Mellen, exclusively with Lane Crawford, and and online at Grace Mirabella, Patricia Pastor, isaac Mizrahi a capsule collection of handbags will icbnyc.com. and Patricia Underwood. The book is slated debut during London Fashion Week — AMy WiCKS to be published by Rizzoli for fall 2013. next month. — rACHEL STrUGATz — MArC KAriMzADEH POLET’S NEW HOPE SPriNGS: The 26th Carousel of rOLE: Safilo’s A DECADE OF MAWi: “She loves mixing Hope gala is set to take place at the shareholder feminine with a dark punk aesthetic, a Beverly Hilton ballroom in Beverly meeting A look at Le dose of granny and industrial chic all Hills on Oct. 20. This year’s biennial confirmed the Tote’s Web site. thrown in together,” Mawi Keivom said event, presented by Mercedes-Benz, appointment of the customer that gravitates toward will honor George Clooney and feature of roberto Mawi, the jewelry line she cofounded performances by Aretha Franklin and Vedovotto as with husband Tim Awan in 2002. The Kenneth “Babyface” Edmonds. In its 35 the company’s London-based brand is celebrating its years, the event has raised more than chief 10th anniversary with a retrospective $75 million for the Barbara Davis executive officer and the nomination of FASHiON rENTAL: Le Tote believes there selection of limited-edition pieces that Center for Childhood Diabetes. robert Polet, former ceo of Gucci Group, is a gap in the market where Rent the will hit stores Aug. 15 and features some Befitting of a true Hollywood as chairman of the board. The board Runway meets ShoeDazzle. Founded in of the brand’s original and signature production, Barbara Davis has pulled in now counts nine members, with Melchert San Francisco by rakesh Tondon and Brett motifs: spikes, saturated colored Sir Michael Caine, Barbra Streisand, Denzel F. Groot, Giovanni Ciserani, Jeffrey A. Cole, Northart, who both previously worked crystals and panthers. Washington, Sumner redstone, Les Moonves, Marco Jesi, Eugenio razelli, Luisa Deplazes de at the investment bank Ridgecrest Paul and Maurice Marciano, Jane Fonda, Berry Andrade Delgado and Massimiliano Tabacchi, Capital Partners, the subscription-based Gordy, richard Gere, David Geffen, Brad in addition to Vedovotto and Polet. online fashion rental service, which Grey, Scarlett Johansson, raquel Safilo, based in Padua, Italy, will soft launch today sends customers Welch, Maria Shriver, Tom Cruise, produces and distributes eyewear for a packages with three garments and Goldie Hawn, Sir Sidney Poitier wide range of luxury labels, including two accessories suited to their sizes and Sir Elton John to serve Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, and style preferences for $49.95 a on the event’s blue-ribbon Dior, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, in month. When they tire of those pieces, committee, as well as Jay addition to its own Safilo and Carrera customers return them to Le Tote to Leno as emcee, David Foster brands. — CyNTHiA MArTENS automatically receive another helping as music director and George of three garments and two accessories. Schlatter as producer. KUSAMA LOVE: Love magazine has Le Tote believes it will attract 5,000 A piece from — MArCy MEDiNA collaborated with Louis Vuitton and members by the end of its first year in Mawi. the artist yayoi Kusama on an iPad app business. — rACHEL BrOWN

wholesalers that tracks single-copy sales. Only 24 percent of the print MeMo pad Olympics issue sold at newsstands, for instance. The sell-through drop was far {Continued from page 9} more precipitous at Allure, down 19.4 was its second-worst selling, with percent, and Lucky, down 16.7 percent. 375,000, or an 11 percent dip over the While some editors qualify news- For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. average). Musicians who are not Adele stand by saying it’s not a true measure or Lady Gaga also failed to sing: Pink, of a title’s vitality any longer, the disap- Katy Perry and Demi Lovato were duds pointing newsstand and sell-through for Cosmopolitan, Teen Vogue and figures for many come on top of the Seventeen, respectively; Christina Aguilera downright humbling ad page counts for Spaces was Marie Claire’s second-worst seller. most magazines through September. Not surprisingly, Larry Gagosian’s influ- — EriK MAzA ence is only felt in the art world. His girlfriend, Shala Monroque, landed on the TErry’S TAKE: As part of its rebrand- cover of Town & Country in January and ing strategy, shoe and bag collection Production Coordinator CUSTOMER SERVICE REP moved about 29,000 copies, the maga- Pour La Victoire hired Terry richardson Growing children’s apparel company located in midtown seeks candidates Midtown importer seeks bright indiv. zine’s second-worst cover so to shoot its for a Production Coordinator (5+ years production administrative exp.) Must w/ customer service exp. to process far, behind Olivia Wilde in March, first ad cam- have good communication skills, be & allocate orders, pick tickets, & as- and a 13 percent decrease from paign. Working detail-oriented, able to work independ- sist customers and sales reps. Exp PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ently in a fast paced environment. its six-month average. with richard PRODUCTIONS Daily/heavy follow up w/ overseas suppli- w/ imports, suppliers, customs, & Across the industry, maga- Kirshenbaum’s Full service shop to the trade. ers. If interested please e-mail resume freight a plus. Ability to work w/ Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 to: [email protected] customers in showroom. Must zines saw total single-copy sales agency, NSG/ know Microsoft Office & Excel. decline 9.6 percent, according S WAT, Richardson Good salary, benefits & bonuses! to ABC; the figures combine shot model Jessica E-mail: [email protected] print and digital newsstands. Hart at a club More troubling, though, is on New York’s To subscribe, visit our website that most monthlies are see- Upper East Side ing highly weak newsstand last month for the www.wwd.com/subscribenow sell-throughs, the percentage holiday and resort or call 800.289.0273 of single issues sold against campaign. For group rates, contact Richard Franz at [email protected] those distributed by publishers. — JESSiCA irEDALE Vogue, for instance, averaged 34.4 percent for the first half, a 16 percent drop from last year’s A Pour La Victoire (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] average, according to MagNet, visual shot by Terry a service owned by magazine richardson.

w08a011a;7.indd 11 8/7/12 8:41 PM 08072012204138 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8, 2012 WWD.COM Talbots Names New Executive Team {Continued from page one} Kaluzny told Talbots employ- Turning around the retailer the common stock of Talbots ees about the new management won’t be an easy task. was delisted from trading on the team on Monday. For the fourth quarter ended New York Stock Exchange. These sources also said Jan. 28, Talbots posted a loss of Stefan Kaluzny, managing Kaluzny on Monday sought to re- $53.3 million, or 77 cents a dilut- director of Sycamore Partners, assure employees of Sycamore’s ed share, compared with a loss said Tuesday, “We are pleased belief and commitment in of $2.8 million, or 4 cents, a year to have completed this acquisi- Talbots’ future. earlier. Revenues fell 1.1 percent tion and are ready to deliver on According to one source, to $289.4 million from $292.6 mil- the promise of executing on the Kaluzny wrote in an e-mail to lion. For the year, Talbots posted significant potential inherent in employees: “Talbots is a brand net losses of $111.9 million on Talbots, which remains a pre- with 65 years of history and a sales of $1.14 billion. mier, storied brand.” great deal of potential. Together, One risk is that the core cus- He added that the new team is we believe we can help the tomer has already moved on made up of “all veteran retailers brand realize the potential and and found other brands to meet and, together, [they] have exten- move forward on a path of posi- her shopping and fashion needs. Michael Archbold has been named Talbots’ chief executive officer. sive financial, merchandising, tive growth.” Getting her attention back will be product development, market- This source also said Kaluzny that much more difficult amid all Talbots is Sycamore’s second ments for its first fund-raising ef- ing and operational skills that emphasized that the “collective the marketing noise among the deal. Its first deal, in November, was fort, with a target of $750 million. will be invaluable as we move to focus will be on financial disci- different distribution channels, a 51 percent stake in Limited Brands The private equity firm is ex- better position Talbots for long- pline, protecting the integrity of including online. Inc.’s sourcing division, Mast Global. pected to remain on the prowl term, positive growth.” the Talbots brand and, most im- The firm operates 516 Talbots Sycamore has reportedly for more deals in the retail and According to sources, portantly, on our customers....” stores in 46 states and Canada. closed on $600 million in commit- fashion space. G-III in Deal to Acquire Vilebrequin Isabel Marant Opens in Tokyo {Continued from page one} is concentrated in its own Jessica Simpson, Guess, Ellen has a particular fondness for the shop around the world, with stores, with less than a quar- Tracy, Cole Haan, Kensie and By AMANDA KAISER Japanese people and their style. 60 owned and 125 franchised. ter of sales from wholesale. Mac & Jac, among others. In “I always appreciate how the France is the brand’s larg- In the U.S., the brand is car- sport categories, G-III has li- TOKYO — Isabel Marant is about Japanese are curious about fash- est market, with 20 company- ried at Saks Fifth Avenue, censes with the NFL, Major to open her first stand-alone store ion and not only buying big la- owned stores, followed by the Nordstrom and Barneys New League Baseball, the NHL in Japan in a Seventies-era wood- bels. They always search for new, U.S. with 16 stores and Italy York. Vilebrequin men’s swim and more than 100 colleges en house painted a cheerful hue of special things,” she said in an in- with 13 stores. trunks, known for their bold and universities. The com- lemon yellow. terview, as a member of her crew G-III declined to divulge a yet whimsical prints, retail for pany operates outlet stores The French designer’s bou- banged a series of aluminum figure for Vilebrequin’s earn- about $220 to $260 in the U.S. under the Wilsons Leather tique occupies the ground level pie plates into a sculpture at the ings before interest, taxes, de- and Andrew Marc names and of the building, located on a quiet store’s entrance. preciation and amortization. has a joint venture for foot- side street just off Omotesando Christophe Mollet, Asia-Pacific However, Wayne Miller, chief wear and accessories outlet Avenue, just around the corner sales director for the brand, said operating officer at G-III, said stores under the Vince Camuto from Michael Kors. that Isabel Marant has about 30 the business was “profitable, brand. In November, G-III en- Marant’s architectural team clients in Japan and is present with great operating margins.” tered a license for Calvin Klein made the most of the existing in about 50 doors in the country. The acquisition is expected Performance apparel in the wooden beam structure to create Although he declined to release to be neutral to G-III’s net in- U.S. and Asia. a rustic yet homey atmosphere sales figures, he said the label saw come per share for the current Beder called the $106.2 featuring concrete floors, large 120 percent sales growth last year. fiscal year ending Jan. 31, 2013, million purchase price for resin lanterns and a dressing He expressed surprise at how well excluding acquisition and inte- Vilebrequin “aggressive on the room with black tatami mat floor- the company has performed since gration expenses. face of it,” considering its lim- ing. The upper and lower levels the devastating earthquake in Roland Herlory, most re- ited size. “G-III didn’t buy it to of the 3,500-square-foot building March of last year. cently managing director of be static. The price is for what are home to a showroom, offices “It’s been a paradox, you know, Hermès in charge of the Latin they plan to do with it, which and meeting space for the brand’s because a year ago we thought it America and Caribbean terri- is make it a worldwide men’s Japan staff. was like the end of the world, and tories, will join Vilebrequin as and women’s lifestyle brand Marant said the house, which since then, it’s been very good. I chief executive officer on Sept. and take it to the next level,” formerly housed a Scandinavian don’t know. I think the Japanese 1. Herlory, a 23-year veteran of he pointed out. “Vilebrequin is cultural association, spoke to have the idea that they can always Hermès, will relocate from St. a small brand, but it’s very well her desire to find a special lo- rebound,” he said, attributing the Barth’s to Geneva. known in the luxury arena.” cation in the city to anchor her growth to a combination of factors Christian Blanckaert, A Vilebrequin Vilebrequin was founded in small but fast-growing business including the strength of the yen, chairman of the board of ad image. 1971 in Saint-Tropez by Fred in the country. which has made European goods Petit Bateau and a board Prysquel, who is no longer “I don’t want to have my win- more affordable, and consum- member of Moncler, will with the company. Designer dow in the middle of all the win- ers’ desire to enjoy life and treat join Vilebrequin as chair- Asia is underpenetrated, Isabel de Brito, who goes by dows. I kind of like a little privacy,” themselves in the wake of last man of its newly established with two owned stores in Hong Zaza de Brito, has designed the she said of the store’s positioning year’s disaster. advisory board. Blanckaert Kong and one in Macau. “Asia line for the past 15 years and off the main strip. “We wanted to As reported in March, Isabel was previously executive is virgin territory and ripe for will remain the creative head keep this wooden spirit, which is Marant posted wholesale revenues vice president of Hermès development, for sure,” said of the company. also very Japanese for me.” of 62 million euros, or $82.9 million International and president Herlory. Latin America is simi- While G-III’s core outer- The store, which opens at current exchange, in 2011, up 44 of the Comité Colbert. larly underdeveloped, with wear business is weighted Saturday, carries both the design- percent versus the previous year. Adu Advaney, the cofound- franchise locations only in to the fall and winter, Miller er’s main collection and her dif- The Tokyo store is just the later of Mexx who cofounded Mexico and Brazil. said the company had not spe- fusion line Etoile. Marant opened est product of Isabel Marant’s Fashion Fund I in 2006, has Analyst Eric Beder of Brean cifically sought out a swim- the store through a franchise ongoing international push. The joined the advisory board Murray, Carret & Co. called wear brand as a counterbal- agreement with Japanese retailer designer recently opened an out- as vice chairman. Ashish the deal a positive in that it ance. The deal was originally Tomorrowland. post in Hong Kong. Future open- Sensarma, who has been adds an international owned brought to G-III by the invest- Marant, known for her bohe- ings are planned for London, chief operating officer of brand to the G-III portfolio, ment bank Barclays last year. mian chic designs with an edge, Seoul and Los Angeles, as well as Vilebrequin under its own- which is heavily concentrated The cash portion of the said Japan has been a significant a fourth store in Paris. The brand ership by Fashion Fund I, is in domestic licensed brands, Vilebrequin purchase was market for her since she began her will have 14 stand-alone units by staying on for the transitional particularly outerwear. “The funded by an expanded $450 line in 1994. The Parisian designer the end of the year. period and will exit the com- biggest complaint with G-III million bank facility, which in- pany in the fall. is that they don’t control their creased from a previous $300 Herlory plans to grow the own destiny,” he noted of the million facility held by G-III. retail footprint, expand the business model. “Their [owned] The five-year syndicated loan product offerings and move the Andrew Marc brand has been agreement is with a group brand into women’s. “Women a big success for them. It’s a of lenders led by J.P. Morgan come to the stores to buy for high-margin business, and it’s Chase and includes Bank of the men. Women’s is a key ter- allowed them to lever their re- America, HSBC Bank USA and ritory that we have to devel- tail structure. They have exper- Wells Fargo. The expanded op,” he noted. Currently, about tise in running stores, and they borrowing capabilities will also 95 percent of sales is in men’s, can use that for Vilebrequin.” fund working capital to support with a small women’s busi- G-III owns the Andrew the growth of Vilebrequin. ness available only in Europe. Marc, Marc New York and “Our strong balance sheet About 85 percent of sales are Marc Moto labels. It holds an and superior access to capital Footwear on display in swimwear, with a small as- array of fashion licenses in continue to support our strate- at Isabel Marant’s sortment of tops, hats and sun- outerwear, dresses and sports- gic plan to grow and diversify new shop. glasses in the product mix. wear, including Calvin Klein, our business on a global scale,” The Vilebrequin business Sean John, Kenneth Cole, said Goldfarb.