108 the night,Madridwill,atsomepoint,capture yoursoul.Onceithappens, itnever lets go. thatsoadornthiscityannounceitsheadlongrushinto sipping wineasthestreet performers out. seeking Chinchón, andare allworth de ElEscorialandAranjueztothecharmingvillagesofSierraGuadarramaorenchanted has becomesynonymouswithhavingagoodtimeandcarousinguntilallhours. Reina SofíaandtheThyssen –withinastone’sthrowofeachother?At thesametime,Madrid Where galleries–thePrado, elseintheworldcouldyoufindthree oftheworld’sbestart how youcanbeartolive anywhere else. Barcelona, butitiseverything thatisgoodaboutSpain.Indeed,you’llquicklycometowonder glamourofParis,Madrid maylacktheeffortless thegravitasofRomeorEuropean coolof d i r d a M © LonelyPlanetPublications

32°C, Whether you’re strollingthroughtheParque delBuenRetiroonaSundayafternoon or In Madrid’shinterland, rangefromthesedate attractions royalheritage ofSanLorenzo Madrid’s charmrevolves aroundtwoextremes. This isarefined cityknownforitsculturallife.

HIGHLIGHTS

AREA: XX 505 SQKM(MADRID) Escapetheclamourofcitylife at Aranjuez’ssumptuous Feast onroastsucklingpig at euros intheexclusive barrioof Spendyourhard-earned EnjoysomeofthefriendliestbarsinSpain gaybarrioof apilgrimagetoseethestarsofReal Make Loseyourself withtheflamencoaficionados Soakup thebuzzwitha Searchfor treasure amidthecrowdsat Strollwith themadrileñosonaSundayafter- SeeVelázquez’s masterpieces andthedark El EstadioSantiagoBernabéu Madrid playatthetemple of football, amid thepassionof Santa Ana(p130) or glassoffineSpanishwineon El Rastrofleamarket noon inthe (p131) del Prado works ofGoyaattheworld-famous Parque delBuenRetiro Cardamomo (p129) caña (smallbeer) Café delaIberia (p162) Plaza de ( p160) Museo (p133) ( p172 ) inChinchón (p169 ) Real (p163) Salamanca (p156) Chueca POP: 3.29MILLION(MADRID) AVE SUMMER TEMP: HIGH Madrid MADRID Aranjuez Chinchón Felipe II,ascendedtheSpanishthronein peninsula –theMuslimsof Al-Andalus con- campaign byChristianforcestoreclaim the (Reconquest)–thecenturies-longquista When Iberia’sChristiansbeganthe Recon- lonelyplanet.com as thebest ‘mayor’Madrid had. hadever merous other publicworks, hebecameknown the RealJardín Botánico andcarriedoutnu- city, completed thePalacio Real,inaugurated governmentsense and,after hecleanedup the aperiodof comparatively common- and Naples). rope (after London,Paris, Constantinople people, makingitthefifth-largest cityinEu- aspect of andwashometo175,000 acapital golden age, thatMadrid begantotake onthe was nothingmore thanasmallcreek. provides Madrid withsomuch of itsgrandeur, Paseomonumental delPrado,which now that were littlemore thanmudhuts.The most part,of precarious whitewashed houses noble residences, Madrid consisted, forthe the imposingAlcázarandasmattering of role anddespite ahandfulof elegantchurches, of Spainin1561. Madrid byFelipe waschosen IIasthecapital est claimstosignificancenotwithstanding, any meaningfuldefence of thecity.Such mod- and designedmore toimpress thanprovide fortificationswerethese largely builtof mud boasted 130towers andsixstonegates, but 1556, Madrid wassurroundedbywallsthat Spanish, letaloneEuropean,cities. simply bore nocomparisonwithothermajor one15th-centurywriter.with you’,observed It Madrid there isnothingexceptwhatyoubring Madrid remained dirt-poorandsmall-scale:‘in ofgrowing evidence royalattention, medieval inMadridsat forthefirst time. Despite the travelling Cortes (royalcourtandparliament) repeatedly, butitwasnotuntil1309thatthe of thecitychange thepeninsulasaw hands word majira, meaningwater channel. (or Mayrit), which comesfromtheArabic they gave wasMagerit tothenewsettlement site of whatwouldbecomeMadrid. Thename Muhammad I,emirof Córdoba, in854,onthe the heartof Iberia. Oneof wasbuiltby these structed achain of fortifiedpositionsthrough HISTORY HISTORY III(r1759–88)gaveCarlos Madrid and It wasduringthe17thcentury,Spain’s Madrid tookcenturiestogrowintoitsnew sonandsuccessor, By thetimeCarlos’ Magerit’s strategic locationinthecentre MADRID ••History sometimes only)waytoget outof the city. are highways crowded, these thebest(and thing like abull’s-eye. often Though hellishly roads, makingmaps of thecitylooksome- Salamanca. east liesthecity’slungs,ElRetiro park, and west isthestatelyPalacio Real,whiletothe barrio ChuecaaswellMalasaña. Tothe thoroughfare GranVíaandthe bohemian district and,beyondthat,theeast–west andLavapiés. Latina La or city)tothesoutheast.Alsosouthlie barrio(districtorquarterHuertas of atown to thesouthwestandbusystreets of the of thecity,withPlazaMayor andLosAustrias and busroutes. into thecity,aswellahostof metrolines deAlcalá–thatstretchMontera and Calle del Arenal, dePreciados, dela Calle Calle this busyplazaare Mayor, roads–Calle Calle outfrom tional heartof thecity.Radiating del Sol),kilometre zero,thephysicalandemo- delSol(commonlyknownasPuerta de Puerta In Spain,allroadsleadtoMadrid’s Plaza La ORIENTATION in somewaysyettoabate. creativity andopen-mindedfreedom thathas party thatsweptupthecityinafrenzy of the years of energy. Thistookitsmostcolourfulformin ist professor –unleashedafloodof pent-up of EnriqueTierno Galván, apopularSocial- as thecity’syoung–undermayoralrule Madrid becameaniconforthenewSpain transitiontodemocracy,try’s subsequent Alley’. and GranVíabecameknownas‘Howitzer deCampo was shelledregularly fromCasa co’s Nationalistforces,duringwhich thecity siege of Madridtwo-and-a-half-year by Fran- 19th centurywere followedbya subsequently after The capital thisevent. Wars ofCarlist the rebellion wasquicklyputdownbyMurat. now PlazadelDosdeMayo. Theill-fated troops aroundthePalacio Realandwhatis morning of 2May 1808,theyattacked French quent occupationof Spainin1805and,onthe kindly to Napoleon’s invasionandsubse- South of del Solistheoldestpart thePuerta After Franco’sdeathin1975andthecoun- theSpanish Turmoil continuedtostalk Madrileños (Madrid residents) didnottake Madrid of issurroundedbyaseries ring North of theplazaisamodernshopping (see (see la movida p159 ), theendless

109 MADRID MADRID MADRID at theback. onthegroundfloor foreign- languageliterature section answer toBarnes&NoblehasalargeEnglish-and www.casadellibro.com inSpanish;GranVía29)Spain’s activities. andother libraries andorganise filmnights The followingforeign culturalcentres allhave Centres Cultural Bookshop Petra’s International and exhibitionsoftravelphotos. travel bookshopwithaagency,gearsection largest 41)Madrid’s .com inSpanish;CalledeSerrano De Viaje deClaudioMoyanobookstalls Cuesta delLibro Casa Altaïr Bookshops INFORMATION 110 with arangeofmaps,guidesandtravelliterature. 31)Cosytravelbookshop, in Spanish;CalledeGaztambide English-language bookshop. community isdrawntothisexcellent(mostlysecond-hand) % second-hand books. botanical gardens,arowof30-oddbookstallsburstwith Cuesta deClaudioMoyano)Onthesouthernedgeof resounding cry:‘Ibamostodos enesetren plause. Andbefore thehauntingsilenceof destination closeto where intospontaneousroundsofap- the bombshadexploded,itbroke onthequalityofapilgrimage,reachedthis angry,grieving crowd,whosemarchhadtaken its presente’ stood silentlyintherain.Chantsroseup, amongthemthedefiant: wrought-iron balconiesdrapedwithSpanishflags,eachtiedablackribbon,while others myself unabletospeak. whenthebombingstookplace–Ifinallygotthrough.Suddenly, Ifound had beenclose-by silence. After adesperate twohoursspenttryingtoreach mywife’s family–weknewthatthey out thesilenceofemptybars,normallyclamorousstreets filledwithpeoplestandingin networks tryingfranticallytotrackdownfamilyandfriends. These soundscouldnotdrown voice read outthenamesofthosewhohaddied over tothewaitingfamilies. aloudspeaker phones ofthevictims. At the ofthecity,anemotion-filled morguemakeshift ontheoutskirts emergency stoodinanguish,tryingtodecidewhetheranswertheringing workers mobile helicopters. As theylaidoutthebodiesalongsidetracksatMadrid’sAtocha trainstation,many had causedit,butalsobecausethisisacitywithjoyousdisregard fornoise. becauseofthedevastatingbombingswhich ness ofthisdaywasprofoundlyunsettling,inpart silence reigned over acitylong renowned asthemostraucousandvibrantinEurope; thequiet- There hasnever beenadayquite itin like Madrid. Throughout Thursday 11March2004,aneerie 11 MARCH 2004–ASPECIALSILENCE 91 5417291;CalledeCampomanes13)Alivelyexpat (Map (Map pp114-15 ; It tookalmostthree hourstotravel the3kmfromPlazadeColontoAtocha station.When On Fridaynight,wejoinedthemassive crowdsonthestreets ofMadridandmarchedpastthe And thenthere wasthesoundofamillionmobile phones,as The onlybythesirens silencewas broken ofemergency vehicles andthesoundofcircling MADRID ••Information (Map (Map p120 ; (You canseeit,youfeel it, Madridishere). (You (Map (Map pp122-3 ; % % 91 5779899;www.deviaje 91 5435300;www.altair.es % 91 5241900; (Map (Map pp122-3 ; (Map (Map p125 ; ’ (Wewere allonthat train). Anthony Ham madrileños againtookhold,there wasone last del General Martínez Campos31) Martínez del General ing are all possible at this modern, savvy place. ing are allpossibleatthismodern,savvy scanningandCDburn- fax,printing, internet connections, 17;perhr€2; Espoz yMina Cyber Total to 15minutes. on PlazaMayor offers free internet forup deTurismo MadridCentro ( opposite ) Mayor andGranVía. Theayuntamiento’s streets delSol,Plaza surroundingthePuerta connectionifyoupokespeed aroundthe You’re almostguaranteedtofindahigh- Access Internet Police &Fire Emergencies Medical Cruz Roja Ambulance Emergency Istituto ItalianodiCultura Institut Français Goethe Institut Council British Zurbarán 21) 86 02; Calle Mayor 86) 86 02;CalleMayor Marqués delaEnsenada12) Marqués ( % ( % 091) ( Mp pp122–3; (Map % 91 5222222) Mp pp114-15; (Map Mp p120; (Map madrileños overloaded mobile 061) Mp p120; (Map ‘Se nota,sesiente,Madridesta h % % (Map (Map pp122-3 ; 10am-10pm) High-speed 10am-10pm) High-speed % ( % % 91 5322622;Callede 91 3913944;Callede 91 7004800;Calledel 112) lonelyplanet.com 91 3373500;Paseo % 91 547 Mayor 13; Mayor there are fast connections outtheback. there are fastconnections bandits, you’re pastthesmokyoldcaféwithone-armed 7;perhr€1.80; de losReyes Plaza de Antón Martín 46; Plaza deAntónMartín company’s phonecentre. h Doctor Esquerdo46)Oneofthecity’smainpublic hospitals. Doctor 15 ; La Casa de Internet deInternet La Casa lonelyplanet.com commissions. Using your ATM cardwillgive have thebestexchange rates, butcheck their Large bankssuch asCaja deMadrid usually Money Marañón Gregorio Hospital General Farmacia Mayor Farmacia delGlobo staff. Spanish- andEnglish-speaking clinicwith 435 1823;CalledelCondedeAranda1)Private Unit Medical Anglo-American Services Medical information deskatAtocha trainstation. somethingonalocaltrain, you lose isLegazpi. metro station 527 9590;PlazadeLegazpi 7; Negociado deObjetosPerdidos atthe ing items leftonthemetroorbuses) You cantrylookingforlostproperty(includ- Lost Property (or fractionthereof). from€2.75forthefirststart 24-hourperiod entrance) andonthegroundfloorof T4.Costs inT2(nearthemetro stand), stop andtaxi the airport:inT1terminal (nearthebus day.Threethe le ings intoalarge storage roomandpayby isbetter;bus station youcheck yourbelong- large boxes Sur theEstación orsuitcases, on thesizeof thelocker. Ifyou’re leaving luggage for€2.40to€4.50perday,depending have Both ChamartínandAtocha trainstations Luggage Left 2000 Nevada Web Navega 588 43 44 or the taxi company concerned. If companyconcerned.If 588 4344orthetaxi prices dropaslow€1.25themore timeyouuse. prices Terrific placewith60fastcomputersandwhere hourly 10am-12.30amSat,5pm-12.30pmSun) 12.30am Mon-Fri, 00; 1stfl,CalledeLuchana 20;perhr€2.10; If youleave call somethinginataxi, % 10am-2pm &5-9pmMon-Sat)Thenationalphone consignas 91 5868000;www.hggm.esinSpanish;Calle del h (Map (Map pp118–19 ; GranVía30;perhr€2; 24hr) (Map (Map pp118–19 ; (Map (Map pp122-3 ; (lockers), MADRID ••Dangers&Annoyances ft-luggage offices operate at (Map (Map pp122-3 ; (Map (Map h h h pp118–19 24hr) where youcanleave 9am-2pm) 8am-1am daily)Once % Mp p120; (Map % ( 91 5212094;Calle % % 91 3664616;Calle ; (Map (Map pp114– 91 5884348, . Thenearest % 91 3692000;

h check atthe 91 59442 % 9am- 91 % 91 91 Chamartín andAtochatrainstations. Chamartín 2pm Sun)ThereofficesatBarajasairport, are alsotourist 2; Duque deMedinaceli inSpanish;Calledel 51, 902100007;www.madrid.org other documents issued. aswelltohavepurposes newpassportsand thisforinsurance statement. Youwill need totake your becertain They will,however, It’spartofthough. theirdailydietinMadrid. tated over your storiesof theftandmishap fleamarket. Rastro particular care inthecrushof bodiesin El the Prado. You shouldalsobesure totake delSolandaround Ana,thePuerta de Santa Plaza Mayor andsurroundingstreets, Plaza most heavily touristed partsof town,notably in theaisle. leftsitting wallet, smallbackpackorbriefcase be quicktowhiskawaythateasilyaccessible will thieves operatingonthemetroandbuses Tourists are generally theprey of choice, and Madrid, butyoushould beonyourguard. There’s tobeparanoidwhilein noneed DANGERS &ANNOYANCES office tourist Regional deMadrid deTurismo Spanish only). drid’s regional information line( ( The city’sgeneral-information telephone line Information Tourist Post Office Post rates butare often openuntilmidnight. de change, which have thepredictable rip-off and PlazaMayor there are plentyof or whattimeof it. dayyouuse bankrates, same nomatter whereyou these from publictransporttoshows. Callao andattheT4terminalBarajasairport. orange informationpointsatPlazadelaCibeles, h 27; PlazaMayor www.munimadrid.es; .esmadrid.com, ciones. Other branchesare dottedthroughoutthecity. ciones. Other main postofficeisinthegiganticPalacio deComunica- .es; PlazadelaCibeles; % You need tobeespeciallycarefulYou need inthe Don’t expectthepolicetobecometoo agi- If you’re desperate,delSol aroundPuerta You canalsotrytheComunidaddeMa- 9.30am-8.30pm) The ayuntamiento also runs bright 9.30am-8.30pm) Theayuntamientoalsorunsbright 010, Spanish only) deals with everything 010, Spanishonly)dealswitheverything Mp p125; (Map h h % (Map (Map pp122-3 ; 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat)The 8am-8pm Mon-Sat,8am- 91 3962443;www.correos (Continued on page 126) Mp p123; www pp122-3; (Map % 91 42949 bureaux %

012, 111 MADRID MADRID CTRY CITY 0 2 km 0 500 m 112 GREATER MADRID 0 1 mile NORTHERN MADRID 0 0.3 miles 113 CITY CTRY

A B C D A B C D INFORMATION Chamartín Dutch Embassy...... 1 D2 Train Station Escuela Oficial de Idiomas...... 2 B3 1 Complutense...... 3 A3 1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp126–44) See Northern Madrid Map (p113) Chamartín Faro de Madrid...... 4 A4 Train Station Museo de América...... 5 A3 INFORMATION Museo del Ferrocarril...... 6 B6 Australian Embassy...... 1 A6 Cooking Club...... 2 B2 SLEEPING (pp144–8) Japanese Embassy...... 3 C6 Hotel Puerta América...... 7 D3 Moroccan Embassy...... 4 D4 1 ENTERTAINMENT (pp157–62) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp138–9) Galileo Galilei...... 8 B3 C Marqués de Viana Plaza de Canal de Isabel II...... 5 A6 2 Castilla Plaza de City Yoga...... 6 A5 Pío XII Castilla Plaza de Exposición de Trofeos...... 7 C4 Castilla Museo de la Ciudad...... 8 D5

Tetuán C 2 Av de C de J EATING (pp153–4) 2 de Costa Rica ose C Alberto Alcoce Castón Tob de Jerez Cuzco r eñas La Broche...... orales 9 B6 Franco o M ll io Paseo de la Castellana Santceloni...... C n 10 B6 Rodriguez ri Apolo u Zalacaín...... C6 Colombia M 11 o C Marqués C av Av de la r Santiago C B F ENTERTAINMENTra (pp160–2) Bernabéu C de Ros y Estadio d e ario del Pino e C de Los Algodonales d Auditorio NacionalB de Música...... C 12 D5 Santiago de Viana er de la A P C Mercedes n Mac v del Concha C Calle 54...... a 13 C5are Bernabéu a rd na General n i Perón Espina i n Paz z Estadio Santiago oBernabéu...... 14 C4 o Sa C de Francisco Gervás Estadio Santiago Bernabéuha Ticket Concha Paseo de la Castellana gú Coplejo Tetuán Office...... n 15 C4 Espina Av de Alfonso XIII PlazaPlaza Azca allo del Perú Serr del Perú a C n El TRANSPORT (pp164–6) a C de Sor Ángela de la Cruz Plaza de la l Plaza de Nuevos l Viso ALSA...... (see 16) e Nuevos República t Cuzco

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Parque or r Is B o Argentina a C de a e c Estadio s e d Stander sí a Cruz del d oto P e C de P F Brasil de P rancos de e Ríos Rosas Rayo C de Juan Ramón Jiménez C R C Doct r Vallehermoso C Colombia a Ríos 7 o l d 3 2 r C del P Rosas C del Principe de Vergara i rofesor g C de Capitán Haya W u aksman Plaza de la 5 8 Canal Cartagena e Av del z República Alonso Avenidad de C de la Infanta C de Gregorio Pedro Teix a del Ecuadro Cano América eira n 4 a Marañón b a See Central Madrid Map (pp114–15) Santiago H o Parque la an C de Rodríguez Marín r Moncloa Iglesia Castellana Bernabéu er del C de Juan de Olías de S t Placio de o de Oeste re e Mo See Malasaña & Chueca Map (pp118–19) Chamberí See Salamanca Map (p120) C de Castilla Congresos y 14 s C de Quevedo 7 a Plaza del o Diego de Exposiciones P ase Rubén República de C del Príncipe de Vergara P Eduardo Dato Darío Núñez León El Av del General Per de ón Plaza 15 El Salvador Argüelles o de Balboa Carmen e de Lima Plaza de 4 as Almagro Raimundo Plaza de 4 Argüelles P C de C  Ave Plaza Bilbao Salamanca de Carlos Trías los Sagrados nida de Concha Espina Las Terue Corazones la Vir l Dulcinea San Ventas C Beltran C de Santiago Bernabéu Guadlu C Lista Ventas de Tiziano C de la Reina Mercedes C Bernardo Núñez m de Concha d Alonso u a l a a S r e de Balboa  n í e G t r g C d Coplejo Espina Martínez de Jaé a l re n a s F e a n b  e e Manuel e C e a u d n Azca m r C del o a Darro m r e g H Parque C C  s a Becerra C d t r 

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C del Mar  Plaza de  e la Cruz Lista   Alonso Alonso  C de Don Ramón d C de Sagasta  e la Cruz   Martínez Martínez Plaza de e C    C de u Bilbao   Manuel q C de Fernando d   27 u  Becerra e C de A  el Santo yala D o C C de Ju Mar A d e  r  m   C de Ayala Manuel Becerra d d e Paseo de la Castellana  tín  e n u Alonso Ventura a o c úñez de Balboa  F de n  Martínez  e an Álvarez Mendiz Rodríguez C A La i Jardines  r e  r e l a lo  C l Arquitecto C de Génova d e o  Rosaleda  z  te Jacinto  s Hero  d d a Colón C   Rivera  C de Francisco e M  C de N  C de Norte C de la Hermosilla 10 l C an C de Alcalá G C de S   l Espíritu  Recoletos s e Sant e Goya n  o  d Tribunal   e o C 16 r esor a Malasaña C del T Jardines Serrano C de Goya 15  l a z Goya áb M  de P  e  a Parque  yes l  Velázquez s al it e  a Descubrimiento e r R t de la e s Chueca r  18 o lo  Plaza de  e a o d Montaña d Noviciado r H  e o  Salvador C e e    d c l d e a a r Lagasca Goya  r d elázquez Dalí Plaza de a  F e M  Recoletos l B o v C  España a a l r l l l i  a d e a   e r a V  Cuesta de est d r Chueca d C de Príncipe  a  C de V  San CVicente del C e c    C de Vergara n d O'Donnell   Ball e M  a P Príncipe u C de Prim  Justicia  la r C F q a  C ué se Reloj d  e  s o Pío  Recoletos e  Sa C de O'Donnell d d n Marc n o  e d Príncipe C de s Paseo de los Recoletos  e C e é C de las Infanta l Retiro M l Glorieta d  Pío i

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o San C  Av de Menéndez Pelayo Casa n esta de B  i Vicente Cu Callao de s  s t San Vicente r Campo o G l See Centro & Huertas Map (pp122–3) Santo Gran ran See Paseo del Prado & El Retiro Map (p125) Narváez Vía Puente Domingo Vía Banco Banco de Plaza del Rey Sevilla C Plaza de España España  Maestro Ibiza 9 C de 4 Plaza de Centro  d Villa de e o

t Isabel II r Oriente Plaza   M C d To Parque de e  e Ibiza u Atracciones de la C o Estanque P Campo 

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l d l r n t a C a to as   G C c z triz  ha a V 20 ea n P B Plaza de C Ruiz    i  r a a g Gabriel Tirso C de Alarcón  r s  e   e e n  ba  d o l s Miró  de Molina e A e  d  Plaza e d C de Don u B uq Antón Jerónimos e  l D a a Pedro de la l   l e

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e R e o b Atocha u e S T l S C El a r e n e t i Rastro Lavapiés

d t d d A Embajadores  e Paseo de la F o a r r u Infanta Isabel a C g r d e n a C rq z n c n s u a Ermita del i l o o s z o Atocha P S d F R c u l r Plaza de o e e to Conde de a Puerta e a oc RENFE l l ir D a V l Mariano M de Casal e de Toledo C a C Station Av del Mediterráneo l de Cavia d e Atocha Plaza n C de Cavan 25 v c 11 8 P ina Plaza del A i de ist s r Campillo del a Ronda de Av la ina C P Re Conde de Casal  a Paseo de la a i C de de la Ciudad de Barcelona C de Fernández Shaw a Mundo Nuevo ci C de Mar n de la Valdavia c s Ro le i n a l e da V Tortosa illes de e e los Pontones o Jardín T d ole a Antonio Armona 14 do nd D 23 d o C de Bernardino Obr R del Rastro C de José C Atocha e Glorieta de s a Train l l Embajadores qué d Puerto de o e Station s o e M d d es Plaza de O r onton Embajadores e los P é Menéndez de Francisco l n u C o o m ria de la Cabeza Puente de Pase ias d Pelayo q e ac d e s Morano o c s E San Isidro A e z a s s 22 la r de Acacias E P Á o l m o se a P lv t Pa a b a c Plaza de s a r o E e ja Palos de la o D Ortega y s o d egón p o Frontera l e r Munilla r d e Pacífico a e s de 19 n z Paseo de Santa Ma C P a aseo del D Pirámides octor Vallejo Nágera Pacífico 116 CENTRAL MADRID (PP114–15) MALASAÑA & CHUECA (pp118–19) 117

INFORMATION Karacol Sports...... 11 E5 ENTERTAINMENT (pp157–62) INFORMATION EATING (pp152–3) ENTERTAINMENT (pp158–9) Altaïr...... 1 B1 Museo Lázaro Galdiano...... 12 F1 Estadio Vicente Calderón...... 19 A6 A Different Life...... 1 G5 Antigua Casa Ángel Sierra...... 17 G5 Café La Palma...... 39 D3 British Council...... 2 E1 Museo Sorolla...... 13 E1 La Riviera...... 20 A4 Berkana...... 2 G5 Bazaar...... 18 G6 Cool...... 40 C6 Fundación Triángulo...... 3 D1 Real Fábrica de Plaza de Toros Monumental de La Casa de Internet...... 3 F2 Bocaito...... 19 G6 El Junco Jazz Club...... 41 G4 Hospital General Gregorio Tapices...... 14 F6 las Ventas...... 21 H1 Navega Web...... 4 E6 Café Comercial...... 20 F3 Honky Tonk...... 42 G2 Marañón...... 4 G4 Sala Caracol...... 22 D6 Nevada 2000...... 5 C5 Casa do Compañeiro...... 21 E4 La Enana Marrón...... 43 G4 Irish Embassy...... 5 E1 SLEEPING (pp144–8) Fresc Co...... 22 G3 Las Tablas...... 44 B5 Portuguese Embassy...... 6 E1 Bauzá...... 15 G3 TRANSPORT (pp164–6) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp135–6) La Isla del Tesoro...... 23 E3 Ohm (Sala Bash)...... 45 D6 US Embassy...... 7 E1 AutoRes...... 23 H6 Antiguo Cuartel del Conde La Musa...... 24 E3 Penta Bar...... 46 F4 EATING (pp148–54) Herranz...... 24 B1 Duque...... 6 C3 La Taberna de San Princesa...... 47 B4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp126–39) Casa Mingo...... 16 A3 Intercambiador de Autobuses Casa de las Siete Bernardo...... 25 D3 Renoir...... 48 B5 Antigua Estación de Atocha...... 8 E5 Sagarretxe...... 17 D1 de Moncloa...... (see 24) Chimeneas...... 7 G6 Laydown Rest Club...... 26 C5 Stromboli Café...... 49 G4 Entry to Campo del Moro...... 9 A4 La Veloz...... 25 H5 Museo de Cerralbo...... 8 A5 Nina...... 27 E3 Ermita de San Antonio de la DRINKING (pp154–7) Real Automóvil Club de España..26 D1 Museo Municipal...... 9 F4 Restaurante Momo...... 28 G6 SHOPPING (pp162–4) Florida...... 10 A2 Geographic Club...... 18 G3 Teleférico...... 27 A2 Museo Municipal de Arte Antigua Casa Talavera...... 50 C6 Contemporáneo de Madrid....(see 6) DRINKING (pp156–7) Cacao Sampaka...... 51 H4 Parque Secreto...... 10 D2 Antik Café...... 29 F6 Divina Providencia...... 52 F5 Sociedad General de Autores y Areia...... 30 G4 Mercado de Fuencarral...... 53 F5 Editores...... 11 G4 Café Acuarela...... 31 G5 Patrimonio Comunal Olivero...... 54 G4 Templo de Debod...... 12 A5 Café Belén...... 32 G5 Café Pepe Botella...... 33 E4 TRANSPORT (pp164–6) SLEEPING (pp147–8) El Jardin Secreto...... 34 C4 Avis...... 55 D6 Hostal América...... 13 F6 La Vía Láctea...... 35 E3 Europcar...... 56 C4 Hostal Don Juan...... 14 F6 Mama Inés...... 36 F6 Hertz...... 57 C5 Hostal La Zona...... 15 F6 Stop Madrid...... 37 F6 National/Atesa...... 58 C5 Hostal San Lorenzo...... 16 G6 Why Not?...... 38 G6 Pepecar...... 59 B5 CTRY CITY 0 400 m 118 MALASAÑA & CHUECA 0 0.2 miles 119 CITY CTRY Glorieta de Quevedo  A B C D E F GH Trafalgar C de Meléndez Valdés  Quevedo   Plaza de  Olavide Plaza de 1 Chamberí 1 C 

d Plaza del e  ato D Conde del F  u o d allehermoso Valle de Suchil e r C de San Bernardo n a u c d a E r Parque r e a

Guzmán el Bueno d l Argüelles C de V Secreto  seo Argüelles Pa

C de

Argüelles

C Bilbao C d onteleón e 

d S Bilbao  e a C d 10 n e Alb  C erto A t 2 guile o a 2 C 42 ra C de M v E a d n r 3 g San e r u Almagro r á Bernardo San F b c r i a a i C Bernardo a s de Santa acián n  r Glorieta c o C G ruz s  de Ruiz de c llego C de Zurbarán o Ga M C de io do Jiménez Nicas aroenado de C de Eguilaz C C R d C de Ruiz  e Ca o rra j nza a Baltasar Acuer C de Luchana s  l n Glorieta Marañó de José 24 de C C de C de Manuela Malasaña 27 á   Bilbao C    Alcal 25 de 20 Bilbao la de  23 C de Manuel González Longoria  C

Princesa es  C de Sag r d C de Almagro e asta  C de la C atti C   Gatería Robles C o C de F M Antiguo Cuartel del Conde Duque h d Palacio  u e Se 3 r r 3 r r los C de Montserrat L a de Liria C u d a n Plaza de el c o r s D de i a 22  vin r A a o 6 Pa a n Alonso st C C o C de San Andrés  g  m r u Martínez ón i  i d ta D  e C de Antomio Flores uinones e Plaza C Q  n C u M a ca C q de las e Apoda S  C d e D u ía e j e C de c Comendadoras í u D e t C de Daoiz a d C de Tutor r a d q d C del Lim id e  C de Monteleón Martín u e o Plaza L C r G e d 35 e lo  Museo de Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo 39 C N q F én n del Dos u o o e e v d ez Gar ric Alonso Martínez a e Plaza de C Plaza d de Mayo  l p C de Velarde a Plaza Cristino Acuerdo de L e Guardias C Ventura ir d de Santa i Martos ló C de los Hermanos Álvarz Quinter a de Corps  C de la Palma ce los Rodríguez C 33 Bar Bárbara rdo Ló e   d 51  Heros  C del  C na 41 r er o  anuel  m  46 Jardines a o  21   p C M Arquitecto C de los Negras C de San Vicente Lucia m C de B Rivera a  ios 54 C C delle Dos de Mayo 34  Noviciado C 9 C eC de Santa Teresa C C C de San Vicente Ferrer Tra d C C del Tribunal d z d del Espí d d e Novic ritu Sa Santa San Mateo e Plaza del e a iado nto e vesía del C 4 e S  Plaza gensola 4 u C n a F C de Justiniano l n la e Marqués g u F í S G s B Plaza del C de Am del Juan C de la Beneficencía r a l u n C r n e a er a Cerralbo d t e s n de e a ria d a Conde de Ponciano Pujol n d a n r n d O o M e d C o

e in Toreno C c e 11 o e

Pa R r C o t C de la Santa Agueda

se J a C de Juan de D a a 43 V C de Ar P o u Pozas M C de San Lor int  u a l r I d r or a r q Travesia ro n e o a R n u M C del Minas el Tes a

l u C d S o t Malasaña l aniel de sa  Á i de l n t D 56 C Cast alle e l e r C s v e Pozas las a V do de Dios Plasencia edera Alta de San Pablo enzo  r Plaza de C  e e os z Emilio d de d e   Leonar o o 49 M l C de Corr  C Jiménez Millas M C Don Felipe e 47 n a C Jesús del V anta a 30 d e S B z i Torre de Madrid s e la rig e C z Torre de C de San57 tr C San Joaquín ida l  á 48 o C d a  C C de Reguer Plaza C del General Castaños b Santa Iglesia t 32 12 d a Madrid G Bárbara r e l u de San o o de las e Plaza i Noviciado Marqués de Santa Ana r C de Belén F rr a H Salesas e e 5 l la de San Antón o o rr Edificio r C de Manzana e y g o s d a a e o Ildenfonso l e é z de y C de la Farm r 59 e n g C de acia e R Sa la Viento C P m Parque yo e C de la Madera C de C de Colón G España s C o r El Escorial o Jardines o L r C de Bárbara l de e n T de la 8 Plaza I io o e g c d a  de  d a B C S n C de Pez S an L o de ucas Montaña C C t  s C de Hernán Cotrés Ferraz la Cruz Verde e n d España é Plaza de 58 Bernardo l r Molino d a de Grilo d S  España 53 Ricardo Leon n del o C C 26 l C C de A 5 San zzaro C b 5 C de racido a e e  Gran Vía P d  l d r de n Antonio Ca e 17 C de Piamonte

r s a C Beatas C S v C C del Marqué

e a l s t C e de n a 2 n C de Pi e i C Parada d 52 1 Gravina Tunnel ic Plaza de l a V 31 j V o e a Mostenses e C Luis de Góngora n C u B T Chueca  a d S M C de la Estrella q de o e C del Docto de d C l R C C Plaza de a d ía a Pér d Chueca t e n ez e C  s la rc Lu a  C Chueca  e F a n S G o d C del Conde de Xiquena u lo a ald y e r  44 C B G e C del Barco o a A aj d a s l ug a C C del r e us Ma C e P to rqués de d C d C C de e e la F a e i  o Leg r Pu gu anés r t e Rí d eb d roa 55 s o s la e o C e l r l C C del Loreto y Chicotel C C de Prim C del C Leganitos C e a 13 F r l a de o C de la Nao b e B S d d i a 38  r L d n e m e M C de la Flor Alta a s l l C a e I o rc s l o R n e C San 36 s a e e t 40 d Onofre s b Plaza de l o d 15 e o e C r j Santa Maria C C de Barbieri18 l  C de Silva a l quillo a Soledad Costanilla n  14 e C C C Muños Capuchinos  del m a D Plaza de l Plaza de C ese Ministerio

l m t M g Torrero o ó a a ñ 6 50 o Vázquez C de San Bartolomé C de la Libertad del 6 Jardines la Marina C l M i o n  C de c i de Mella r 37 Ejército Torija y de Española a Plaza i e C de Bar C C de Tudescosg Ministerio

a A d u

Sabatini d de Santo C 28 e l de e  d

e C e Bailén l e 29 l Domingo Carrión la de Cultura d s F e 45 Gran In  o d Building C de la R fan m t C Cuesta de San Vicente C d e ta Vía as 19 d a s o Queseda l e e t eles Plaza 4  C Gonzalo o n u n o Plaza eina C de 16 C C a C deg Jacometrezo Callao B t S ing Clavel Paseo del a o m Gran Vía Centro 7 del Rey l Do del Callao Prado

C d C d os An

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esoneros Romanos ir e e a L es Cruces tor Hugo

l V C M Tr c 0 200 m 120 SALAMANCA 0 0.1 miles SALAMANCA 121 de RafaelCITY Calvo CTRY

C de Alfonso X

C de Fortuny

A B C D Puente de Chamberí Enrique de la INFORMATION Museo Arqueológico Nacional....15 B5 The Wok...... 27 A4 Mata Gorostizaga 17 21 1 Glorieta Alliance Française...... 1 D1 Museo de Cera...... 16 A4 de Rubén Rubén Darío Paseo de Eduardo Dato a C de Juan Bravo Andora Embassy...... 2 C6 Museo de la Escultura DRINKING (p156) Darío n a l 1 l Anglo-American Medical Abstracta...... 17 C1 Café-Réstaurante El e t Rubén s Núñez de a Unit...... 3 B6 Museo del Libro...... (see 13) Espejo...... 28 A5

Darío C ca Balboa

a Canadian Embassy...... 4 D4 El Lateral...... 29 D3 l

e

d zquez De Viaje...... 5 C3 SLEEPING (p147)

o e French Embassy...... 6 B6 Hesperia Hermosilla...... 18 C4 ENTERTAINMENT (pp157–62) s

a C de Lagas C de Jenner P German Embassy...... 7 B2 Hotel AC Santo Mauro...... 19 A2 Centro Cultural de la Villa...... 30 B4 Salamanca C de Velá Goethe Institut...... 8 A2 o Institut Français...... 9 A4 EATING (p152) SHOPPING (pp162–4) C de Marqués de Villamejor UK Consulate...... 10 A4 Biotza...... 20 C5 Agatha Ruiz de la Prada...... 31 C3 UK Consulate-General...... 11 A6 Fast Good...... 21 D1 Amaya Arzuaga...... 32 D4 19 C de Zurbano UK Embassy...... 12 A3 Gran Café de Gijón...... 22 A6 Armand Basi...... 33 C3 C de Fortuny La Galette...... 23 C6 Bombonería Santa...... 34 C3 C del Marqués de Riscal C de José Ortega y Gasset C de Claudio Coell SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp126–38) Mallorca...... 24 B6 Camper...... 35 C5 2 C de José Ortega y Gas Biblioteca Nacional...... 13 B5 Teatriz...... 25 C4 Mantequería Bravo...... 36 C3 set ro g Chi Spa...... 14 C6 Thai Gardens...... 26 C5 Sara Navarro...... 37 D5 a 7 lm Almagro 8 A e d C C de Zurbarán C del Marqués de Villamagna

Ríos

los C de Don Ramón de la Cruz

de

5 oa

errano 34

Amador 29

de C de S C de Zurbano

C C de Fernando el 3 Santo 12 C de Ayala

36 C de Núñez de Balb 33

C de Orfila 31

C de Monte Esquinza C de Alcalá Galiano 25 18 l a r e C de s s C de la Hermosilla n o e ñ ué G 32 a q l t r a s Génov e a n a d 27 e C M C a rg l u e C de Or elázquez Z d Recoletos 4 ellana C Plaza Serrano de C de V 4 C de Goya Colón Colón 30 Serrano Plaza de 10 Velázquez C de Garcíala Gutiérrez Villa Jardines de Paris Ensenada 9 de la 16 Descubrimiento

de

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s o l 35 C del C de C d Jorge Juan e Bá e 37 rb d 13 20 ara 28 de o 15 Bra e gan s 5 za a P Recoletos ontC edel Marqués de Monasterio C de V quena Car illañueva

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C del Conde de Aranda Recoletos 14 Chueca 24 Justicia rcito 6 C de Sa 11 lus 6 tian o Retiro Oló 2 zag a Plaza de la Independencia Plaza de Co e S C an Ma rcos C C del D C muños Plaza de esemg Torrero Ministerio C Horno año Vázquez CTRY del CITY la Mata co 0 de Mella 400 m Ejército 122 0 0.2Ministerio miles 123 CENTRO & HUERTAS enares de de CITY CTRY y m Cultura C Guillermo C C C del Encarnacíon d d Rolland e e l l C del Bar a n 43 s Plaza F Queseda In Jardines é C del Arinal o C de Jacometrezo C Gonzalo fa l n i m tas del de a e

C de la Libertad A B B 99 C n D E F GH C de Col Rey Sabatini t Plaza a o C del Marqués del V e l o Callao s 5 d 1 B del o Gran Gra Santo n 111 a n 3 V C de Clavel 37 C ía l Domingo Callao a Vía 57 C de 100

Plaza de la 23 e C de la Abada m Banco de d C la a o Reina Encarnacíon s r C R 49 España e

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del g r 51 e

l España de Ve Ayuntamiento s e Plaza de C Chinchilla a Jardines 12 n T n C del Ayuntamiento e C de las Tres Cruces Prado

(Town Hall) V

A o

la Red de C de Victor Hugo C 1 1 n s Commercio (Town Hall) Cabo Plaza de C e 83 i a s 53 San Luis r

C de nchas g neras o o C M Noval m C 47 78 e C L s C Pavía o de Cuesta de Santo Domingo 88 lo n l Ca p 123 aldeiglesias a b a l l Plaza lle Arrieta d r m l l e o d 59 i C de los Jardines e Gra a ra d e cia e n C del a C r 2 C P a l C de Alcalá l e o e t Carmen t 26 e s d C s d Tra vesia Trujillos n d o e d 112 Banco 62 s l e o P Sevilla V o C C de Marqués de Casa Rier Statue C C S e C Felipe ñ a M de España a n l a Plaza i Plaza r A g of m l a C b l a C del la Priora de San 24 C de la Salud e uan r de Plaza de a n e r Ad o Felipe IV i 127 to e e la e n d r jó s s Oriente 42 Flora Martín d C d o o Isabel Plaza de las t le i l d C de Carlos III C a a C n C II C Descalzas V i C C P Banco de España C r c Francisco M de e d uá e la e Galdo t los Ahorr Campo C Donados s Pasaje de 40 Piquer er o e ico r T C del C rd t P del s r ia e e a e d Moro r Arenal 60 c d Museum of Royal a a e g Ópera ia r a C s M de los Descalzas Collections (Under Jardines de e d l adrazo o los M V o C de te C de San 73 s e os Construction) C s s mpo Lepanto d Martin Plaza de C

Plaza o C

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C i e C Sol t Carrera m n la Puerta C de de C C e Le o l A n d s 135 ren a 107 al San J a erónímo C de Zorrilla 8 t del Sol S a Plaza p C de Santiago Plaza de Canalejas a e 84 Veg e C C d s a e Herradores i ñ Paseo del Prado L la C o r 70 ru o 90 la P r C d s 139 zad r o a a t r e e e r á e enal l t 58 l s c C del 121 ra d i r P oz de o Plaza del o d F e a d 10 Pasaje V c S Le a o i b a m e Commandate p n c o o 36 i s d r Matheu a B ca 125 C del Prí J N i L R l e t e San l E r

Corr del C d C ó o C u las Morenas 41 z Sol n C Fernánflor a i n e m r zó a 110 e b o a 32 64 P d 85 d

r ó S n o Ventura y t e C de Bar C Juan d a Postas a M s l C 

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C a C d a e e C del Duque de Medinaceli a Za S e rago 130 C d 63 11 C delC v za celona del 114 118 15 Plaza del a Plaza C G 141 C d 87 13 Plaza de Neptuno M o e 89 C del Duque de Medinaceli d d Plaza z erona d C Conde de i 138 Mayor C del Prado (Plaza de Canovas o g e C de Santa Catalina e Cllj de C de Manuel Fernándezy González u de Santa 140 Álvarez ñ Miranda C C del Sacramento e S 115 del Castillo) ú e 136 a C Felíp Los l Cruz Gat 52 n o

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Parque 20 C 34 Plaza 18 Plaza de 142 Ayuntamiento Austrias 71 la Bolsa e M

de de la d Plaza

C de Bailén de la 56 132

(Town Provincia San Tomós de Santa 3 Atenas Villa Plaza del 48 C 3 Hall) C del Cordón P C del Maestro C d Plaza de 7 Ana 50 Conde deC Cuesta de la Vega 46

C de Jacinto s Villa s Barajas d o

19 C de San Agustín o uga e e r Lech Benavente C l C 29 C de Cervantes 44 C de Jesús

Parque de Puñonrostro l e Plaza 77 C del a l la Plaza de e l 106 Paseo Villa C i 97 C del del Eimr Rollo P d del Jeróni h Ayuntamiento la Cruz d a Exteriores e s c C Ángel Infante del Mohamed I S a C de a u d 54 Plaza (Town Hall) Verde on Plaza del n ión Jerõnima e A Prado C Ju C pc 134 to 116 101 C Cordón sto Plaza de ce ch de Plaza Con a Jesús Viaduct 69 143 C C Quevedo Puerta la de C Maestro del C d egovia e Lope C el de S Cerrada C d de Vega Alamillo Prín C Plaza de 117 Huertas d cip 104 io 105 C e e Segovia M Costanilla c Plaza de Ang un las de Ramón A lona N Nueva Hu o o el la ColegiadaC de es de ert l r d s a r f Plaza de s 25 o C C Salvador d e d in o Matute o al r 33 i G í n 74 la Paja e 45 z Cuesta Tallería i a C de s D tr Granado s P 96 a Be de Bailén o Grafal e e Jardines r e d n C V a d a 113 Tirso de Molina dro de z Antón de las i I n C S e r s Plaza de d lm A l C ñ 91 o 76 e o o e C del Doctor Cortezo Martín Vistillas e d 79 a Gabriel s C Ayuntamiento 119 d C 92 Plaza S t d m C a a Plaza de Miró a (Town Hall) A r 6 a 98 de n C del Conde de Romanones n l de a e l C l 102 C de los Relator Plateria i i p l d Antón e Plaza d Granado 72 A l a n e d Martinez n los m 17 a 9 Plaza Martín de San C de Luiz Vélez de Guevera C Polonia C de San José Y t Tirso de C Santa e d a

s C s s e r 68 a de Tirso de MolinaC de San Pedro Mártir C de Antón Juan

C o la Magdalena é Molina de e 4 ro o Estudios 4 s s d 35 C lta d Martín D e ja e a A l Redondilla M B a s o s 103 a v o v a 120 l a o 30 a C T Plaza b C de n ce C e d la d e e e Do C Plaza Plaza de e del Duque C n P d C d C de Cabeza d e dro de San C 137 de Alba d a la Puerta e C de la T C C l de Veró Plaza l nica Andréas de Moros l i C a 61 de la 108 C del Duque de Alba Antón n E a C d s t del Cebada C de C del Olmo Martín C de Fúcar Go p s be e a Calvario r rnador o La del a San Milán d C o S C Soler y González r o v c a C C a s i i orrecilla del Leal l d c Latina C n n 94 d C d C del Duque de Fernán Núñez ra 39 e S e an F La Latina e O P I an C C de las Maldonadas C de Juanelo d Si Plaza s S J l món e e i o d e C de s e i n d de San C de las Aguas A ú a r a d n C r Oriente M 126 o e Plaza s e Al r e S m Francisco ar r y d ad

g g é C n L C C de de i la n u e a Cebada M o a a C E n nd i d  b Cascorro ie a s C San Ildefonso z m t r C de Ruda co C del Mesón de Paredes r C Tres Peces n r a a u n ía í a C E i r d e l S C la e a o l C de Luciente a e s 16 d r d M e C Dos C C las Carlos e de Atocha San v de C C de a a C Atocha l C de Sierpe C de López Silva A a n Hermanas d l C 93 l C de la E t sper C de Cenicer e d A e anza r g el M e a n Mediodia Chica e A diod a d v l ia Gran t L Northern Madrid a de de n a C 5 C a v 5 S a C del s e a Lavapiés p d avera n C de Abades i C de Santa Isabel o é G C 122 maz s m r A s o C del Oso meda a e la an 66 n d t 109 C e os V ay í Plaza C del Rosario a C

n C de Pri d General Vara Sa e a z C de Sanchez Bustillo e la Ribera de Curtidores C de e del Rey l C de CabesterEl S m za C de la Ala a o l n Rastro n C d 27 o Plaza a a Alt G F P Río de r el o a a ra in l i Lavapiés n r M fe c C e a e C s i y C de la Fé Pla o s d C de Fra t c Emp o Lavapiés en C 80

C Ca C V o C del Carnero de la d ital e Mira e l Rodas Bayo C de los Embajadores et C de Ar o de el ut 22 T C b gumosa Tri e l el e d d C Hosp C 75 Rio C de Aguila C

Pas Travesia de Gil Imón Callejon mbrería Francia Mellizo Bajia eo Imperial 6 l C de la So 6 Ronda de Segovia o S Tunnel S a de l C de Espino e n ra t C Doctor Fourquet i i M M a t del g d C C e C é o e v n r

Peña d V e d ca e e s S e

las América e la r n l d io e C del Am V e s vi u a C d a de o Glorieta Pr ig le n de Puerta Puerta C M C c e i de Toledo de Toledo Plaza e a o d Ronda de Atoch sin de Mallor Campillo del s Ca C pa de las Delicias C el o MdN C d CTRY CITY 0 200 m 124 CENTRO & HUERTAS (pp122–3) PASEO DEL PRADO & EL RETIRO 0 0.1 miles 125 Retiro

Plaza A B C D de Costa Rica INFORMATION Hard Rock Hotel...... 46 F3 Taberna La Bola...... 99 C1 Plaza de la Independencia16 Alambique...... 1 C1 Hostal Acapulco...... 47 E1 Wokcafé...... 100 G1 13 Banco de España...... 2 H1 Hostal Macarena...... 48 C3 Zerain...... 101 G3 Children's Plaza Plaza Swings Maestro Casa del Libro...... 3 E1 Hostal Orly...... 49 F1 aza dede Cibeles la Villa 1 Centro de Turismo de Hostal Sardinero...... 50 G3 DRINKING (pp154–6) PradoCibeles Casa de 2 Vacas Madrid...... 4 D3 Hostel Metropol...... (see 49) Almendro 13...... 102 C4 Colectivo de Gais y Lesbianas de Hotel Anaco...... 51 E1 Bonanno...... 103 C4 17 Madrid (Cogam)...... 5 G1 Hotel El Prado...... 52 G3 Café del Nuncio...... 104 C3 Plaza de Nicaragua Comisaría...... 6 H4 Hotel Meninas...... 53 C1 Casa Alberto...... 105 F3 Boat Cyber Total...... 7 F3 Hotel Miau...... 54 F3 Cervecería Alemana...... 106 F3 Rental El Flamenco Vive...... 8 C2 Hotel Paris...... 55 F2 Chocolatería de San Ginés...... 107 D2 C de Montalbán Farmacia del Globo...... 9 F4 Hotel Plaza Mayor...... 56 D3 El Viajero...... 108 C4 Farmacia Mayor...... 10 D2 Hotel Senator...... 57 F1 La Inquilina...... 109 F5 9 Istituto Italiano di Cultura...... 11 B3 Hotel Urban...... G2 La Venencia...... 110 F2 58 11 Petra's International Bookshop....12 C1 Los Amigos Backpackers' La Viuda Negra...... (see 88) 4 C Juan de Mena C de Morato Monumento a Alfonso XII Regional Tourist Office...... 13 H3 Hostel...... 59 C1 Museo Chicote...... 111 F1 Los Amigos Sol Backpackers Suite...... 112 F1 Estanque 2

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp126–44) Hostel...... 60 D2 Taberna de Cien Vinos...... 113 C4 I

I

X Armería Real...... 14 A2 Mad Hostel...... 61 E4 Viva Madrid...... 114 F3 o Plaza s Ayuntamiento (Town Hall)...... 15 C3 Mario Room Mate...... 62 C1 Ølsen...... 115 G3 n C de Antonio Maura o de la f

l

Banco de España...... (see 2) Palace...... 63 H3 Lealtad 3 A 7 e Retiro

d

Basílica de San Francisco el Petit Palace Posada del Peine...... 64 D2 ENTERTAINMENT (pp157–62) Mediodía Grande...... 16 A5 Quo...... 65 F2 Café Central...... 116 F3 C Capilla del Obispo...... 17 B4 Café Populart...... 117 F3 18 Casa de Cisneros...... 18 C3 EATING (pp148–51) Cardamomo...... 118 F3 Plaza de Casa de Lope de Vega...... 19 G3 Bar Melo's...... 66 F5 Casa Patas...... 119 F4 Casón Honduras Casa de los Lujanes...... lípe IV del Buen 20 C3 Casa Labra...... 67 E2 Cine Doré...... 120 F4 C Fe Retiro 14 Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Casa Lucio...... 68 C4 Ducados Café...... 121 F2 Parque Almudena...... 21 A3 Casa Revuelta...... 69 D3 El Juglar...... 122 F5 del 3 Centro de Arte Reina Sofía...... 22 H6 Cervecería 100 Montaditos...... 70 D2 El Sol...... 123 F1 Retiro Convento de la Encarnación...... 23 C1 Cervecería Compano...... 71 D3 La Boca del Lobo...... 124 F3 Convento de las Descalzas Delic...... 72 B4 La Central Bullfight & Football 8 Reales...... 24 D1 El Corte Inglés...... 73 E2 Ticket Office...... 125 F2 Convento de las Trinitarias...... 25 G4 El Estragón...... 74 B4 La Lupe...... 126 F5 10 20 Edificio Metropolis...... 26 G1 El Granero de Lavapiés...... 75 F6 Localidades Galicia...... 127 E1 El Rastro...... 27 D5 Ene Restaurante...... 76 C4 Palacio Gaviria...... 128 D2 Bosque de 12 Farmacia Real...... 28 B2 Gula Gula...... 77 G3 Room at Stella...... 129 F2 los Ausentes Hammam Medina Mayrit...... 29 E3 Gula Gula...... 78 G1 Teatro Albéniz...... 130 E3 Jerónimos Information Office Iglesia de San Andrés...... 30 B4 Julián de Tolosa...... 79 C4 Teatro de la Zarzuela...... 131 G2 C de Ruiz de Alarcón Iglesia de San Ginés...... 31 D2 La Buga del Lobo...... 80 F6 Teatro Español...... 132 F3 Plaza de Plaza Plateria de Bravo Iglesia de San Nicolás de los La Casa del Abuelo...... 81 F3 Teatro Joy Eslava...... 133 D2 Martinez Murillo Servitas...... 32 B2 La Finca de Susana...... 82 F2 Teatro Real...... (see 42) 4

Paseo del Prado 15 Iglesia de San Pedro El Viejo...... 33 C4 La Gloria de Montera...... 83 F1 Yelmo Cineplex Ideal...... 134 E3 Muralla Árabe...... 34 A3 La Mallorquina...... 84 E2 6 Museo de San Isidro...... 35 C4 La Oreja del Oro...... 85 F2 SHOPPING (pp162–4) Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza...... 36 H2 La Trucha...... 86 F3 Casa de Diego...... 135 E2 Palacio de Buenavista...... 37 H1 La Trucha...... 87 F3 Convento del Corpus Palacio Real...... 38 B2 La Viuda Blanca...... 88 C1 Cristi...... 136 C3 XII C de Alfonso Polideportivo La Latina...... 39 C4 Las Bravas...... 89 F3 Corsetería La Latina...... 137 D4 Real Glorieta del C Jardín Ángel Caído Al Real Academia de Bellas Artes de Lhardy...... 90 F2 El Arco Artesanía...... 138 D3 madén Botánico San Fernando...... 40 F2 Maceira...... 91 H4 El Flamenco Vive...... (see 8) Real Casa de la Panadería...... 41 D2 Maceira...... 92 H4 El Rastro...... (see 27) 19 Teatro Real...... 42 C1 Malacatín...... 93 D5 Gil...... 139 F2 Telefónica Building...... 43 F1 Mercado de la Cebada...... 94 C4 José Ramírez...... 140 E3 INFORMATION Palacio de Cristal...... 12 D4

C de Cenicero Mercado de San Miguel...... 95 C3 Justo Algaba...... 141 E3 22 Casa de América...... (see 13) Palacio de Linares...... 13 A1 5 SLEEPING (pp144–6) Posada de la Villa...... 96 C4 Maria Cabello...... 142 F3 1 Cuesta de Claudio Moyano Palacio de Velázquez...... 14 D3 Alicia Room Mate...... 44 F3 Restaurante Sobrino de Botín.....97 D3 México...... 143 F3 C de Atocha C de Claudio Moyano Bookstalls...... 1 A5 Polideportivo La Chopera...... 15 C4 Main Post Office...... 2 A1 Puerta de Alcalá...... 16 B1 Cat's Hostel...... 45 F4 Taberna Algorta...... 98 C4 Santarrufina...... 144 E3 Atocha n New Zealand Embassy...... 3 A2 Tiritilandia...... 17 C1 é l m e u d r D SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp131–5) SLEEPING (p147) C r o Alfonso XII's Mausoleum...... 4 D2 Hotel Ritz...... 18 A3 t c Plaza del o Emperador Antigua Estación de Atocha...... 5 A6 NH Nacional...... 19 A5 D 21 Carlos V Bosque de los Ausentes...... 6 B4 Fuente Egipcia...... 7 C2 EATING (pp151–2) Iglesia de San Jerónimo el Balzac...... 20 B3 Real...... 8 A3 El Brillante...... 21 A6 Museo de Artes Decorativos...... 9 B2 Paradis Erre Efe...... (see 13) Pa se Museo del Prado...... 10 A3 o de 6 la Museo Naval...... 11 A2 ENTERTAINMENT (pp157–62) In fa Palacio de Comunicaciones...... (see 2) Kapital...... 22 A5 C nt d a e Is a Atocha Á M be lv é Atocha l Renfe a n r d Renfe Station o e z 5 Station

de las Delicias o P MADRID each have theirownidentity,andyou’ll Malasaña, andSalamanca,which Lavapiés Retiro, inparticular)andareas like Chueca, cityparks(Parquesome outstanding delBuen and endlesslyenergetic streetlife. Throwin forMadrid’sa front-rowseat finecityscape terrazas provide (caféswithoutdoortables) than inthebeautifulplazas(squares), where feel-good easiertoaccess been livinghasnever combination of stunningarchitecture and walls,the themuseums’ Bornemisza. Beyond de Arte ReinaSofia Thyssen- andtheMuseo charms of delPrado,theCentro theMuseo mile of fineart,ithastobethecombined therein theworldandifever wasagolden Madrid hasthree of thefinestartgalleries SIGHTS andthemetro.crowded buses space, move waryof jostlingon onfast.Be simply gettingtoyourpersonal tooclose gers offering flowers orunsolicited help,or empties yourpockets. Ifapproached bystran- While onedistractsyourattention, theother attractive womantodistractmalevictims). of twoormore (sometimesoneof theman Tricks aboundandtheyusuallyinvolve ateam Scams 111) page from (Continued 126 the august andold-world is aroundMalasaña, where through tapas atCasa Revuelta ( p149 ). Ifit’saSunday,better stillprecede theseoutingswithawander nightlifeand eclectic ( p156 ). ( p133 ) before headingintoChuecaforgreat restaurants ( Europe. catchyourbreathp152 inthe Inanticipationofalongnightahead, ) andMadrid’sfamouslynoisy ofpredominantlyof agrandcollection galleriesin Spanish oldmasters andoneofthebestart high culture, sostrolldownthehilltoincomparable then ontoPlazadeSantaAna( p130 ), theidealplaceforalong,liquidlunch. Time forsome rest thaninPlazadeOriente posite ). Bythenyou’llbeready foracoffee orsomethingstronger,andthere’s nofinerplaceto Calle Mayor, passing thedelightful architectural beauty,fineterrazas andendlesslyfascinatingpassingMadridparade. Wanderdown it aroundthebestplaces(andplazas)torelax en route. Begin in Just ofyousoplan You’vetwo daysinMadrid?Whatwere dayahead ahectic youthinking! MADRID INTWODAYS restaurants andtapasbarsalong area, mealat consider achicken-and-cider tonishing Goyafrescoes inthe Thyssen-Bornemisza ( p132 ), thenjumpon themetroforaquickrideacrosstowntoas- On daytwo,choosebetweeneitherthe MADRID ••Sights El Rastro( p129 inEurope.), oneofthebestfleamarkets Another great placetoexplore Café Comercial ( p152 ) isafine oldpitstopatanytimeofday. Calle deManuela Malasaña

( opposite ). Doublebackuptowardsthe Ermita deSanAntoniolaFlorida Calle delaCava Baja Plaza delaVilla ( p128 ) andheadforthePalacio Real ( op- Casa Mingo Centro deArte Reina Sofía its first publicceremony wasthebeatification cobblestones onasunnyday. the breathing of entity,fromtheoutdoortables Bakery) –isonething,butthisaliving, 17th-century bytheexquisite frescoesnies offset of the ochre balco- apartmentswithwrought-iron The grandeurof itsbuildings–theuniformly pp122–3 of anyvisittoMadrid.) isahighlight The stunninglybeautiful PLAZA MAYOR raucous clamourof modernMadrid. churches andimposing convents amidthe palaces, elaborate private mansions,ancient –thinkexpansive cism wasatitsmostdevout ostentatious andSpain’soverarching Catholi- splendour of ImperialSpainwasatitsmost the cityatitsmostdiverse. Thisiswhere the theheartofcutting through Madrid, thisis GranVía, delSoltothemonumental Puerta , andthebusystreets aroundthe los Austrias de hillside of Madrid’s oldestquarter, Madrid ofFrom thetangle streets tumblingdownthe Sol&Centro Los Austrias, to spendsolittletimehere. quickly endupwonderingwhyyoudecided Designed in1619byJuanGómezdeMora,

terrazas tothestudentsstrewn acrossthe ( p153 ) orheadforLaLatinaandthegreat (Map pp118–19 ) offers and richpickings

(Map pp122–3 ) orsomecod-and-tripe Museo delPrado( p131 ), thehome Real Casa delaPanadería Casa Real Plaza Mayor ( above ) withits ( p136 ). Whileyou’re inthe Puerta delSol Parque delBuenRetiro ( p131 ) orthe Museo Plaza Mayor (Map Plaza Mayor lonelyplanet.com

18) and ( p128), (Royal

tion of heretics) of the Spanish Inquisition while theautos-de-fe (theritualcondemna- tators were arecurring until1878, spectacle Thereafter, watched bullfights by50,000spec- of Madrid’s SanIsidroLabrador, patronsaint. lonelyplanet.com ( above of by asemicircle ele- ) and enclosed pp122–3 ). OverlookedbythePalacio Real to bethanthemajestic there’sOn asummer’sevening, nofiner place PLAZA DEORIENTE adult/child). or youcanvisititonitsown(€3.40/1.70 per Armería isincludedinthePalacio Realticket dating fromthe16thand17thcenturies. The collection of weaponsandarmour,mostly (RoyalArmoury),ashiny is theArmeríaReal de laArmería).Westwardsacrosstheplaza the patioknownas Real walls resplendent withembroidered silks. withitsexquisite stuccoceilingand Gasparini ceiling. Shortly after, youreach the crimson-velvet wallcoverings and Tiepolo ous diers’ tothesumptu- roomsandeventually of imperialpower,leadingfirst totheHalber- balls. The forconcertsand Stradivarius violinsstillused of Goyas, 215absurdly ornate clocksandfive palace rooms,which holdagoodselection quarter of theoriginalplan. colossus hasamere 2800rooms,justone- which isperhapswhytheItalianatebaroque Felipe diedbefore thepalacewasfinished, would dwarfallitsEuropeancounterparts. bon kings,decidedtobuildapalacethat mas Day1734, Felipe V,thefirst of theBour- years ago. moved tothemodestPalacio delaZarzuela ally forroyalceremonies; theroyalfamily onlyoccasion- of it’sused apalace,although 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,9am-3pmSunApr-Sep) €9/3.50; de Bailéns/n;adult/childincltour,Farmacia &ArmeríaReal Real % Spain’s lavish PALACIO REAL marketan important andhubof citylife. square in1790,butitwasrebuilt andbecame also tookplacehere. Fire largely destroyedthe When theAlcázar burneddownonChrist- Outside themainpalace,visitFarmacia 50ofThe officialtourleadsthrough the 91 454 88 00; www.patrimonionacional.es inSpanish;Calle 91 4548800;www.patrimonionacional.es (Royal Pharmacy) atthesouthernendof Salón delTrono(ThroneRoom),withits h 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun Oct-Mar, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat,9am-2pmSunOct-Mar, main stairwayisagrandstatement Palacio Real MADRID ••Sights Plaza deArmas(or Plaza de Oriente (Map Plaza deOriente (Royal Palace; Map pp122-3 ; is ajewelbox Salón de .teatro-real.com inSpanish;PlazadeOriente) .teatro-real.com in the affections ofin theaffections neo-Gothic interior holdsnopride of place whiteNot surprisingly, thepristine,bright in thewayandit wasn’t finisheduntil1992. underway untilthe 1880s.Otherprioritiesgot here backin1518,butconstructiondidn’tget tinguish theworld’sgreat cathedrals. the lackof theold-worldgravitas thatsodis- modern ceilingsdoinglittletomake upfor more adornmentthancharm, itscolourful, Palacio Real,iscavernous andladenwith delaAlmudena Nuestra Señora Christian past.NotMadrid. The monumenttothecity’sgloriousstand-out city of stature hasitssignature cathedral, a ter’s Basilica. European Infact,almostevery Paris hasNotre DameandRomehasStPe- DE LAALMUDENA CATEDRAL DENUESTRASEÑORA the mainattractions. a thatch-roofed pagodaandpalaceviewsare ontheAlcázar.tury attack Nowshadypaths, the Muslim army campedbefore a12th-cen- holidays Oct-Mar) 10am-6pmMon-Sat,9am-6pmSun& Sun &holidaysApr-Sep, del Moro hind thepalaceare of thefountains the h French-style the Palacio Real.Tothenorthare theformal In properpalacestyle,lush gardenssurround DE SABATINI CAMPO DELMORO&JARDINES (adult/child €4/2; in 1997after a€100-millionrefit. measure. Ittookitspresent neo-Classical form II andlater blownupintheCivilWarforgood were burneddownduringthereign of Isabel 1708 andtorndownin1816.Itssuccessors Thefirstopera house. theatre wasbuiltin fated tostretch atnight pedestals theirlegs. bles, locallegend hasittheyget downofftheir ofstatues mostlyancientmonarchs andno- occupation intheearly1800s.Littered with square tookonitspresent formunderFrench is oneof Madrid’s mostopenandagreeable. gant apartmentbuildingsandcafés,thesquare 542 2200;CalledeBailén; Carlos Ifirstbuildingacathedral proposed Carlos On theeastern sideof thesquare istheill- Once thesite of theoldAlcázar( left ), the 9am-9pm May-Sep, 9am-8pmOct-Apr) 9am-9pm May-Sep, Teatro Real Mp pp122-3 ; (Map h , so named because thisiswhere, sonamedbecause Jardines deSabatini

10.30am-1.30pm) Mp pp122-3; (Map h . madrileños h 10am-8pm Mon-Sat,9am-8pm 9am-9pm) % Mp pp122-3 ; (Map are possible. 91 5160660;www , southof the . Directly be- Mp pp118-19; (Map Guided visits , thecity’s Catedral de Catedral Campo % 127 91

MADRID MADRID MADRID the convent. here andthere are 33chapels dotted around of the 11,000Virgins. Some33nunsstill live and awonderfulpainting entitledTheVoyage onworksbyRubens, based dinary tapestries anumberof stairway, extraor-Renaissance agaudilyfrescoed tory guidedtouryou’llsee from Juana’snoble friends.Ontheobliga- Spain’s richest religious thankstogifts houses I,theconvent quicklybecameoneofCarlos the widoweddaughterof theSpanishking 11am-1.30pmSun) & Sat,10.30am-12.30pmFri, nación €6/3.40; withConventodelaEncar- citizens free Wed,combinedticket .es inSpanish;PlazadelasDescalzas;adult/child€5/2.50,EU pp122-3; Map de lasDescalzasReales The grim,prisonlike wallsof theConvento CONVENTO DELASDESCALZAS REALES the eye. with lateralterations, Renaissance alsocatches The Plateresque after hiscapture of in theBattle Pavia (1525). to theimprisonedFrench monarch FrançoisI, tohavebrickwork towerissaid ‘home’ been is theGothicesque baroque. Ontheopposite sideof thesquare Herrerian slate-tile spires andHabsburg-style 17th-century government sincetheMiddleAges. of Madrid’s thepermanentseat has been city iron),it stoneandwrought brick, exposed ( century Madrid-style baroquearchitecture examplesof 17th- by wonderfullypreserved of Madrid’s prettiest. onthree Enclosed sides intimate There are grandersquares elsewhere, butthe PLAZA DELAVILLA in Christianhands. and 13thcenturies,bywhich timethecitywas date fromthe12th Othersections was raised. the 9thcentury,wheninitialIslamicfort Islamic rulers. Someof itdates asfarback fortifications builtbyMadrid’s earlymedieval Árabe(ArabWall;Map Muralla pp122–3 ), the de laVega, is ashort stretch of theso-called thecathedralapse, Behind and downCuesta MURALLA ÁRABE 128 sumptuous stronghold ofsumptuous stronghold thefaith. hint thatbehindthePlateresque façadeliesa : apleasingamalgamofbarroco madrileño Founded in1559byJuanaof Austria, On thewestern sideof thesquare isthe MADRID ••Sights Mp p123) s one is pp122–3) (MapPlaza delaVilla % h ayuntamiento 91 5548800;www.patrimonionacional 10.30am-12.30pm &4-5.30pmTue-Thu Casa deCisneros Casa Casa delosLujanes Casa (Convent oftheBarefoot Royals; (townhall),withits , builtin1537 offer no no offer , whose , whose Incarnation; Map Incarnation; Map century. of thepresent church dates backtothe15th Mudéjar (hispano-moorish)belltower,most Madrid. Apartfromtherestored 12th-century mosque andoffers arare of glimpse medieval built onthesite of Muslim Magerit’s second 9.30am-2pm &6.30-9pmSunholidays) % Iglesia deSanNicoláslosServitas Considered church, Madrid’s oldestsurviving DE LOSSERVITAS IGLESIA DESANNICOLÁS the curiousandfaithful. year on28June,drawingthrongsofevery San Pantaleón, which purportedly liquefies thebloodofies. Themostfamouscontains well asahandfulof silver andgoldreliquar- 18th-century sculptures andpaintings,as side there isauniquecollectionof 17th-and Augustine order(Agustinas In- Recoletas). baroque. It’sstillinhabited bynunsof the 17th-century mansionbuiltinMadrid-style press Margarita of Austriaandoccupiesa 11am-1.30pmSun) 12.45pm Fri, h €6/3.40; withConventodelasDescalzasReales bined ticket Encarnación; adult/child€3.60/2,EUcitizensfree Wed,com- The CONVENTO DELAENCARNACIÓN for theclock thatgives Spainits officialtime when allMadrid packs into thesquare waiting the city. Sun; Map pp122–3 ) wastheeastern gate of del Sol earliest days,thePuerta lines terminate here). andstart InMadrid’s foot, bymetro(three linescross)or bus (many here are forever headingsomewhere on else, crowded. Itis,above all,acrossroads. People hemisphere of elegantfaçadesandoften very The officialcentrepoint of Spainisagracious PLAZA DELAPUERTA DELSOL Greco. El somefinepaintings,includingan It houses in someformsinceatleastthe14thcentury. of Madrid’s oldestchurches here andhasbeen pp122-3 ; CalledelArenal 13; north of PlazaMayor, Mayor delArenal, Calle andCalle Between IGLESIA DESANGINÉS & 5.30-8.30pmMon,8-9.30am6.30-8.30pmTue-Sat, It comesintoits own onNewYear’s Eve, 10.30am-12.45pm &4-5.45pmTue-Thu &Sat,10.30am- 91 5594064;PlazadeSanNicolás; Convento delaEncarnación Convento pp122-3 ; h % Iglesia de during services) during wasfoundedbyEm- 91 4548800;Plazadela lonelyplanet.com mayhave been (Gate of the

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Mp pp122-3; (Map isanother 8am-1.30pm (Map (Map this isthesymbolof thecity. bear nuzzlinga watches onTV. of Lookoutforthe statue a to strike astherest midnight, of thecountry lonelyplanet.com of Europe’s mostengaging fleamarkets. crowd, keen to savour one with the El Rastro to life on weekends andonSunday throngs which comes It allspillsover Latina intoLa bars, restaurants andalternative-cool shops. climbing streets which are hometoquirky There’s aboutitssteeply somethingmedieval and, increasingly, mostmulticulturalbarrios. is oneof Madrid’s oldest,mosttraditional With anidentityallitsown,eclectic Lavapiés La Latina&Lavapiés its dome. has awinged of statue victorysittingatop (Edificio Metrópolis; Map pp122–3 ; 1905), stunning French-designed Alley’. Atthesouthernendof GranVía,the became knownas‘Howitzer the boulevard building inthecity.DuringCivilWar, pp122–3 ), which wasforyears thetallest Telefónica the1920s-eraway alongGranVíastands old streets.aboutone-thirdof Onarise the whatwasthenalivelythrough labyrinth of existed since 1911whenitwasbulldozed deAlcalá,but ithasonly then downtoCalle the centre of Madrid fromPlazadeEspaña thatclimbsthrough Vía, thegrandboulevard toimagineMadridIt’s difficult withoutGran GRAN VÍA a few drawingsbyPicasso. a coupleof minorportraitsby Velázquez and Tintoretto, Rubens, Greco, Goya, El Sorolla and Juan Gris,notto mention Zurbarán, by loved oldmasters. includeworks Highlights here worksbysomeof –ithouses thebest- 18th century–both Picasso and Dalí studied artists sinceFernando VIfoundeditinthe demic centre of learningforup-and-coming orReinaSofia.to thePrado,Thyssen An aca- Madrid ittoooften gets forgotten intherush summer) 9am-2.30pmSat-MonSep-Jun,7pm Tue-Fri, longerhoursin dent/senior &under18yr€2.40/1.20/free, Wedfree; http://rabasf.insde.es inSpanish;CalledeAlcalá13;adult/stu- deSanFernando Artes In anyothercity,the DE SANFERNANDO REAL ACADEMIA DEBELLASARTES would be a stand-out attraction,butin wouldbeastand-out building (EdificioTelefónica; Map MADRID ••Sights madroño (strawberrytree);

Mp pp122-3; (Map Real AcademiadeBellas Real Metrópolis building Metrópolis % 91 5240864; h 9am- town. the 11th-century Christian takeover of the of Magerit was concentrated inthewake of dina. Thisiswhere theMuslimpopulation ofnow retains awhiff theNorthAfricanme- and themazeof windingandhillylaneseven ish quarter). Straintheimaginationalittle Andrés wastheheartof themorería andsoutheasttothe Segovia Iglesia deSan The area stretching de southfromCalle LA MORERÍA bunker here. they inturnwere shelled fromaRepublican and deCampo, tionalist troopsfromtheCasa Vistillaswasheavily bombardedbyNa- Las (MapVistillas pp122–3 ). DuringtheCivilWar, intheadjacent outdoor tables de Guadarrama,are alsotobehadfromthe vantage points,withviewsouttowardsSierra barriers were putupinthelate 1990s.Good where deSegovia, stroll downCalle a For agreat viewof delMoro,take a Campo &JARDINESDELASVISTILLASVIADUCTO asmuch else. aseveryone Rastro ous Sundayfiesta. turning thebarriointosite of aspontane- (appetizer)ofaperitivo vermouth andtapas, crowds intonearbybarseveryone foran comes afterhave thestalls shut downand thebestoffor manymadrileños, ElRastro 8am andlastsuntillunch (2pmor3pm)but, at waiting tobefound.Theshoppingstarts tenfor every piecesof junk,there’s areal gem goods andelectronicsare themainfare, but designer purses, grungyT-shirts, household tos of Madrid, oldflamencorecords, faux the mazeof streets branching offit. delaRiberaCurtidosand way downCalle easily spendanentire morninginching your metrostop,andyoucould Latina near La market forhalfamillennium. anopen-air which upthehill.It’sbeen sat streetsdown these fromtheslaughterhouses, owes itsnametothebloodthatoncetrickled is aMadrid (theStain) institution.ElRastro h A Sundaymorningat EL RASTRO gives agoodvantage point. This wasapopularsuicidespotuntilplastic A wordof warning:pickpockets love El Cheap clothes,luggage, antiques,oldpho- The madness beginsatPlazadeCascorro, Sun morningonly) , Europe’slargest fleamarket, El Rastro Jardines delas Mp pp122-3; (Map (Moor- viaduct 129

MADRID MADRID MADRID tanilla deSanPedro) end up at the Centro deArte ReinaSofía.end upat theCentro down thehill,you’ll keep goingfarenough are Ifyou to theirstay among thehighlights. writers oncemadetheirhome, andlandmarks This lively centralquarter iswhere Madrid’s &Atocha Huertas still influencedbyitsMuslimoccupation. lim Quarter), inthedayswhenMadrid was Mezquita delaMorería (Mosque of theMus- The church wasbuiltatopthesite of theold itsclearlyMudéjar belltower.most notably windows ontotheworldof Madrid, medieval San Pedro el Viejo IGLESIA DESANPEDROELVIEJO Teixera’s 1656mapof Madrid. onPedro isamodelbased Onehighlight saint. 10am-2pm Sat&Sun) de SanAndrés2;admissionfree; % moved deSanIsidro. totheBasílica of untilhisremainsSan IsidroLabrador were reredos (screens). Itwaslongtheresting place the Plateresque tombs andthefineRenaissance for themostlyGothicvaultinginceilings, it’snotstrictlyof though theperiod.Lookout sidered thebest churchRenaissance inMadrid, and isatitsbestwhenilluminated atnight. Civil War,itwasrestored toitsformerglory crowddriftsin.Gutted duringSpain’s Rastro this square onSundayafternoons astheEl backdrop fortheimpromptupartiesthatfill plaza of name,providing thesame alovely de SanAndrés1; The stately IGLESIA DESANANDRÉS&AROUND Assisi builtachapel in1217. basilica sitsatopthesite where St Francisof of Aragon ishere, too. Accordingtolegend, the diction of Bernardino of San Siena forthe King ceilings byFranciscoBayeu. Goya’s tures, includingfrescoed cupolasandchapel fea- baroque basilicahassomeoutstanding aboveyellow domepeeking therooftops. The itsprettyat thesouthernreaches Latina, of La h 365 3800;PlazadeSanFrancisco1;admissionmuseum€3; Basílica deSanFranciscoelGrande One of thelargest churches inthecity, BASÍLICA DESANFRANCISCOELGRANDE 130 Capilla delObispo Around thebackisCapilla Museo deSanIsidro The nearbyMuseo 11am-1pm &5-7pmTue-Sat) 91 366 74 15; www.munimadrid.es/museosanisidro; Plaza 91 3667415;www.munimadrid.es/museosanisidro; MADRID ••Sights Iglesia deSanAndrés h isoneof the few remaining 8am-1pm &5.30-8pm) is devoted tothelife isdevoted of the Mp pp122-3; (Map dominates theskyline h % 9.30am-8pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-8pm Tue-Fri, (Map pp122-3; (Map Mp p123; Plaza pp122-3; (Map 91 3651284;Cos-

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% 91 commemorative Mass isheldforhimevery The ANTIGUA ESTACIÓN DEATOCHA great writer’s life andwork. 10am-2pm Sat) 11;admission€2,Satfree; Cervantes de LopeVega long gone,butjustdownthestreet isthe 2,is deCervantes atCalle house, Cervantes’ year ontheanniversary of hisdeath,23April. Trinitarias originally buriedinthebaroque and 17thcenturies. was Miguel deCervantes here duringSpain’sgoldenage of the16th of of Letters), because thewriters wholived referred toasthe The area Anaisoften aroundPlazadeSanta BARRIO DELASLETRAS hedonism. sophistication andnocturnal,full-volume Español attheeastern end),daytimecafé culture (theTeatrolove thesquare itself), flamenco bars nearbyandstreet performers for asafocalpointof music(there are smoky guished history,itmore thancompensates pp122–3 ) isagem. Whatitlacks in adistin- and irresistible energy, confluenceofA delightful elegantarchitecture PLAZA DESANTA ANA ings to use asmodelsforelaborateings touse tapestries. here,time employee creating 63different draw- are oncartoonsby based Goya, whowasalong- client andthecurrent royalfamily. Many works grandeur, itcounts theHotel Ritzasaregular befittingtheir and otherbigwigswithtapestries €2; .realfabricadetapices.com; CalledeFuenterrabía 2;admission (Royal Tapestry Factory; Map of Goya’ssketches? The Fancy onsome orarugbased a wall tapestry REAL FÁBRICADETAPICES other age. ofthe grandoldEuropeantrainstations an- thecavernousalthough ceilingresonates with like alush greenhousethanatransporthub, more than500plantspecies,itnowfeels more 1992 intoasurprisingtropicalgardenwith Lovingly andartfullyconverted in preserved iron-and-glass relic fromthe19thcentury. tion; Map p125 ; PlazadelEmperadorCarlosV) Founded in1720toprovide theroyalfamily in justafew months foramere €10,000orso. h Antigua Estación de Atocha Antigua EstacióndeAtocha 10am-2pm Mon-Fri) Mp pp122-3; (Map , which is now a museum aboutthe , which isnowamuseum Mp pp122-3; (Map Barrio delasLetras Barrio can whip one up for you canwhiponeupforyou pp114-15 ; h Plaza deSantaAna closed tothepublic) Real Fábrica deTapices Fábrica Real % h % (Old AtochaTrainSta- 91 4299216;Callede lonelyplanet.com 9.30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 91 4340551;www Convento delas Convento isatowering (District anda (Map Casa

52; adult/student/child&senior€6/4/free, 2.30-9pmSat& 3 ; the hospital, Adapted fromtheshellof an18th-century CENTRO DEARTEREINASOFÍA lonelyplanet.com shop, a café and the museum’s library. shop, acafé andthemuseum’s porary exhibitions, auditoriums, thebook- Vandhoststem- Plaza delEmperador Carlos extension thatspreads alongthewestern tipof work of art, nomore sothanthestunning ardo Chillida(Rooms42and43). beautiful worksof sculptor theBasque Edu- the context alittle,butonnoaccountmiss the and Henry Moore (bothinRoom24),broaden Fredericpoet GarcíaLorca. Buñuel’s homage toDalíandsketches bythe loaga (Room1),whileRoom12ishometo painterand 4)theBasque Ignazio Zu- you’ll findtheworksof Juan Gris(Rooms3 realist extravaganza by canvases Salvador Dalí,includingthesur- on showhere, whileRoom10boasts20orso Wassily Kandinsky, oneof thefew foreigners acoupleof by canvasses Room 9youcansee adjacent tothe Picasso collection.Innearby workadornsRoom7,alonggallery whose are thepaintingsandsculptures of Joan Miró, plethora of theartist’spreparatory sketches. April 1937.)Alongsidethismasterwork isa town of Guernica,on Franco’s orders, on26 spired bombingof bytheGerman theBasque the innocentbymodernwarfare. (Itwasin- world’s outrage atthehorrors upon wrought form wouldbecomeaneloquentsymbolof a disfigurationofcubism whose thehuman paintings intheworld,asignature workof 3.5m by7.8m,thisisoneof themostfamous Measuring nothingelse. if yousee anepic floor, which isworththeentrancepriceeven Picasso’s the external glassliftare outstanding. of Madrid, whiletheviewsover thecityfrom courtyard offers arespite fromtheclamour 4th floors (Rooms18to45).Thepeaceful ranges over the2nd(Rooms1to17)and century uptothe1980s. Spanish art,principallyspanningthe20th Sun free; houses thebestinmodern(predominantly)houses % Among the other important Spanish artists Among theotherimportant Primary amongtheotherstars onshow The mainattractionformostvisitors is The maingallery’spermanentdisplay The state-of-the-art ReinaSofía a isitself The state-of-the-art On the4thfloor,worksby Francis 91 7741000;www.reinasofia.es; CalledeSantaIsabel h Guernica, inRoom6onthe2nd 10am-9pm Mon&Wed-Sat,10am-2.30pmSun) Centro de Arte Reina Sofía Reina deArte Centro MADRID ••Sights El Gran Masturbador .

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self amasterpiece.self Completed in1785,the it allinatonce. all bealittleoverwhelming ifyoutrytotake plan tomake acoupleof itcan visitsbecause Spend aslongyoucanhere or,better still, less collectionof Spanish andEuropeanart. conceit, Velázquez painting protrays himself nating the picture. Inaflourish of personal Felipe Margarita IV),withtheInfanta domi- as in 1656,thepainting ismore properlyknown andcolourmorelight apparent. Completed masterpiece andnowhere ishismastery of their presence, paintings thatsodistinguish thePradoby Silva yVelázquez. OfthemanyVelázquez figures of Spanish art, Diego Rodriguezde the life-filled paintings of oneof thegreatest left intoRoom12where you’llencounter by Felipe IIabove ElGreco. by slender andtortured. byare Alsoclose works El Greco, figures whose are characteristically most surreal worksbythe16th-centurymaster of thispricelesscollectionwiththevivid,al- Goya thrustsyouimmediately intotheheart paintings ondisplay. delPradoopenedwith311Spanish Museo the royalcollections,andfive years later the for thepalaceasamuseum decided touse 1808 and1813.In1814,King Fernando VII during theiroccupationof Madrid between as acavalry barracksfor Napoleon’s troops neo-Classical Palacio served deVillanueva €6/4/free, Sunfree; .mcu.es; Paseo delPrado;adult/student/under18yr&over65yr del Prado One of the theworld’stopmuseums, MUSEO DELPRADO Retiro. of thesupremely enjoyable Parque delBuen up thehilltoeastare thestatelygardens elegant streets justbehind thePrado. Rising plenty of lurkinthequietly othermuseums richest galleriesof fineartintheworldand are Thyssen-Bornemisza Museo amongthe culture.high delPradoandthe TheMuseo foranoasisofhouse greenery, fresh airand you’llfeel liketas, you’ve leftbehind amad- If you’ve justcomedownthehillfromHuer- Paseo delPrado&ElRetiro The building in which it is housed isit- The buildinginwhich itishoused About halfwayalongthemainhall,turn de Entering thenorthernPuerta through Titian whowaspreferred ascourtpainter La Família deFelipe IV(TheFamily of Mp p125; (Map h Las Meninasisconsidered his % 9am-8pm Tue-Sun) 91 3302800;http://museoprado hasapeer- Museo Museo

131 MADRID MADRID MADRID ing collection of Flemish art.Thefulsome 16) shouldalsobe onyouritinerary. (Rooms 29and28) and José deRibera and 18A,while EstebanBartolomé Murillo Francisco deZurbarándominate Rooms 17A have figures piquedyourcuriosity, thestark of masterpieces thatremain. IfSpanish painters you’re nowfreefromthediverse toselect sombre moodwhich thepaintingsevoke. tosuitthe wonderfully, withdimmerlights Prado’s administrators have displayedthese malesque appearanceof theircharacters. The black thatdominate, andthedistorted ani- of38), so-calledbecause thedark brownsand Pinturas Negras and disturbingworksof Goya’slater years, his is given tothedramatic your waytoRoom39,where prideof place drawings are onthe2ndfloor)butfirst make religious paintings fortapestries, paintingsand fills Rooms19to22,andhisearlypreparatory You canenjoytherest of Goya’sworkslater (he Madridde Albascandalised societyof theday. tobetheDuquesa woman commonlybelieved portraitsof These anunknown Nude Beauty). and Dressed Beauty) and mostintriguingoils, you’ll findwhatare probably hisbest-known a selective approach. Head forRoom22,where the Prado. Tocapture Goya’smagic,wesuggest tensively represented of theSpanishmasters in José deGoyayLucientes, whoisthemostex- world’s premier exhibitionspaces. together combinetomake thisoneof the ceilings,which andhigh cally placedlighting accustomed tothePrado’ssubtlebutstrategi- on horseback. Bynowyou’llhave become by hisstunningpaintingsof variousroyalty to themainhall,where Room29isframed in Rooms14and15,butdon’tfailtoreturn it shortlybefore hisdeath. yearningstreak.mischievous, He wasawarded Order of Santiagoonhisvest thatreveals his company, itisthepresence of thecrossof the dinary cheek of inroyal depictinghimself Asidethe kingandqueen. fromtheextraor- 132 of insurgents inMadrid. anti-French execution revolt andsubsequent blematic paintings,theybringtolife the1808 El Tres deMayo. Twoof Madrid’s mostem- Another alternative isthe Prado’s outstand- Having captured of theessence thePrado, Room 32isyourintroductionto Francisco There are more fineworksbyVelázquez By nowyoushould beready forthedark MADRID ••Sights (BlackPaintings; Rooms35to La Maja Desnuda (The La Maja Vestida El Dos deMayo and

(Room (The (The also adornwhatwasuntilrecently theMuseo storage (knownasthe‘HiddenPrado’)will of of thethousands paintingscurrently in for sometime,ifatall.Atalater stage some unlikely tochange themajor exhibition spaces project thatcouldlastforyears, it’s although artist Albrecht Dürer inRoom55B. also findacoupleof paintingsbytheGerman toretto and Titian playwithperspective. You’ll sic chiaroscuro from while Caravaggio, Tin- Onesti inthree partsby Botticelli andclas- arein manyposes TheStory of Nastagio degli plethora of Madonnas withbabesandChrist ofto theItalians theRenaissance.Among surrealism hadaname. lucinatory work,painted five centuriesbefore provide adefinitive explanationforthishal- ground floor. able to No-onehasyetbeen can befoundinRoom56,downstairs onthe DelightsEarthly by Hieronymus Bosch which painting inthePradothan no accountmissRembrandtinRoom7. van Dyck(Rooms9B,10Aand10B)on by works inthevicinityincludethose Anton can beenjoyedinRooms8to11.Otherfine ness of manyof theotherFlemish artistsand Rubens provide aplayfulantidote tothedark- figures andbulbouscherubs of Peter Paul world of contemporary painting. Allthebig the masters of artdown tothezany medieval breathtaking breadth of artisticstyles,from witha hassomething foreveryone Thyssen art galleryof manyvisitors toMadrid. The child €6/4; 369 0151;www.museothyssen.org;Paseo delPrado8;adult/ The MUSEO THYSSEN-BORNEMISZA audio guideattheentrancefor€3. for€9.Youcanalsoget an to thehighlights amoreand thebookshopsells complete guide languages booklets(€1each) inseveral sell works themselves. Coin-operated machines artists, butitwon’ttell youanythingabout the guide youtothemainschools andthemajor tion given outforfree; thehand-outmapwill in thePrado. There islittleprinted informa- or joiningaguidedtourcanbehuge help With somuch tolookat,getting aguidebook Guides &Information del Ejército. The Pradoisundergoing amajor extension Also onthegroundfloorisPrado’snod There isnomore weird-and-wonderful Museo h

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is thefavourite Mp pp122-3; (Map lonelyplanet.com The Gardenof % 91 floor planalsomakes itoneof themosteasily them allunderoneroof. Itseasy-to-follow to Madrid andtheart-loving publicistohave gift just asinglepainting,buttheThyssens’ names are represented here, sometimeswith lonelyplanet.com (Rooms I toP). Juan Gris,Matisse, Picasso, where more thanin the extension evident while thebaronness’s eyeforquality isno- Picasso, Cezanne, Matisse and Egon Schiele, Honoré inthe AfternoonbyPissarro. Parisianand thequintessentially by Manet, TheThaw at Véthueil byMonet forWomaninRidingcould besaid Habit Les Vessenots isamasterpiece, butthesame ing. Theastonishingtexture of vanGogh’s the placetolinger over each paint- andevery skimming thesurfaceuntilnow,Room32is the ranksof great artgalleries.Ifyou’ve been is where into istrulyelevated theThyssen Gogh. van and Constable Degas, sarro, Pis- Renoir, Sisley, Monet, alongside hanging withmoreThyssen-Bornemisza Canalettos theburgeoningto house collectionof Carmen floor istheextension (RoomsAtoH)built avaggio and Canaletto. Butbestof allonthis are worksby El Greco, Tintoretto, Titian, Car- by Lucas vanValckenberch are as highlights, 1586Massacrethe evocative of the Innocents VIII by Holbein theYounger (1497–1543)and triptychs. recognisable Theinstantly andFlemish religiousGerman paintingsand den amongthe13th-and14th-centuryItalian, therevisitor, although are somereal gems hid- art, isprobablyof leastint Bornemisza’s collection. approximatelyhouse halfof Thyssen- Carmen which have to joinedtothemuseum been acquired the museum twoadjoiningbuildings, lecting nousof herlate husband.Inearly2000 shown thatshehaslearnedmuch fromthecol- the barondiedin2002,hisglamorouswife has have hunghere sinceOctober1992.Although thecollection.Almost800works cally tohouse neo-Classical Palacio specifi- deVillahermosa Spanish government offered tooverhaul the (of former Miss Españaandex-wife of Barker Lex a Tita Cervera, the baronmarriedCarmen Spain acquired theprestigious collectionwhen magnate. Bornemisza, aGerman-Hungarian navigable galleriesinthecapital. The collectionisthelegacyof Thyssen- Baron Rooms 33to35play hostto Modigliani, If allthatsoundsimpressive, thefirst floor The 2ndfloor,which ishometomedieval Tarzan whenthe fame).Thedealwassealed MADRID ••Sights erest tothecasual Rue Saint- Henry

18th century rests beneaththe buried in theparkbyFelipe IVin themid- todance.the parkandpeople start as thecrowdgrows, bongosringoutacross approaches onasummerSundayafternoon – ofthe essence Madrid, comehere assunset plete withmarblelions.Ifyouwanttocatch mausoleum ontheeastern sideof thelake, com- massive structure ornamental of , orPuppetLand). (look forTiritilandia for thekidsare anothersummertimefeature the numerousoutdoorterrazas. Puppetshows ride (€4for45minutes) ortake acooldrinkat the Sundaypapers intheshade,take aboat Apart fromstrolling,peoplecomehere toread their intimates, weekends. plative butcomesalive duringtheweek, on abundant greenery, it’squietandcontem- lawns, theoccasionalelegantbuildingand Littered withmarble monuments,landscaped Madrid andterrace traditionastapas cafés. 6am-10pmOct-Apr) midnight May-Sep, A SundaywalkinElRetiro PARQUE DELBUENRETIRO Freud allrepresented. Roy Lichtenstein, EdwardHopperand Lucian climax, with Salvador Dalí, Francis Bacon, buildstoastirring 47 and48,theThyssen Mark centre Rothkotaking stage. InRooms Silver I,andthepleasingGreenonMaroon by tered crazinessof Jackson Pollock’s Miró. Joan by Marc Chagall,Kandinsky, Paul and Klee rooms.Itstreasuresstand-out includeworks again inRoom45,anotheroneof thegallery’s and Madrid’s ownJuanGris.Picassopopsup big three of cubism:Picasso,Georges Braque anicemixof the art. InRoom41you’llsee of topop paintingsfromcubismthrough an outrageously rich collection. with and therare appearanceof Edvard Munch Mua, Monet’sdreamlike include therich colours of Gauguin’sMata Hopper are allpresent, butourfavourites Toulouse- Braque, Degas,Sorolla,Sisleyand Lautrec, Edward Georges Kandinsky, life have longsincemadetheparktheirown. Once the preserve of and kings,queens Once thepreserve The groundfloorbeginswithafinespread Legend hasit thatanenormousfortune Legend The Room 46issimilarlyrich withthesplat- Geese inanOrchard . Quite simply,it’s estanque (lake) iswatched over bythe fromallwalksofmadrileños Charing CrossCharing Bridge Mp p125; (Map isasmuch a Fuente Egipcia Alfonso XII’s Brown and h 6am- 133

MADRID MADRID MADRID Feb, 10am-9pmMay-Aug) 10am-8pmApr&Sep, adult/child €2/1; as large. First created in1755onthebanks intimate notnearly thanElRetiro,although style of theperiodwithGothicandRenais- ments of theNorthAmericanmonumental architect of thebelleépoque,itcombinesele- by AntonioPalacios, Madrid’s mostprolific Palacio deComunicaciones some of Madrid’s finest. west towards theMetrópolis buildingare deAlcaláor views easttowards thePuerta and thenational Banco deEspaña Palacio deBuenavista, include the landmark buildingsaroundtheperimeter part of itover astheayuntamiento. Other thecitycouncil issoontotakefice, although accept thatthisismerely thecentralpostof- touches.sance Newcomers findit hardto splendour of ImperialMadrid. PlazadelaCibeles(Map p125 ) mostevokes the ofthe elegantboulevard Paseo delPrado, Of allthegrandroundabouts thatpunctuate PLAZA DELACIBELES under atree. a placetotake aleisurely wanderthan laze of thousands plantspecies.It’smorecan see here in1781by daysyou III.These Carlos of RíoManzanares, thegardenwasmoved JardínBotánico paths, theReal With itsmanicured flowerbedsandneat REAL JARDÍNBOTÁNICO or cypress tree. bombings. Foreachanolive victimstands the 191victimsof the 11 March 2004train of theAbsent), anunderstated memorialto is themoving Mon-Sat, 10am-4pmSun&holidaysOct-Apr) 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pmSun&holidaysMay-Sep, Palacio deVelázquez and-glass structure southof thelake; the1883 10am-4pm Sun&holidaysOct-Apr) 10am-6pmMon-Sat, Sat, 11am-6pmSun&holidaysMay-Sep, Palacio deCristal the lake. includethe1887 Otherhighlights (Egyptian onthewestern Fountain) sideof 134 the world’s few statues to the devil. the world’sfew tothedevil. statues (theFallenCaído Angel, akaLucifer), oneof southern endof of thepark,astatue den; Map den; Map p125 ; In thesouthwestern cornerof thepark The jewelinthecrown MADRID ••Sights % Palacio, deLinares h ( 91 420 30 17; Plaza de Bravo Murillo 2; 91 4203017;PlazadeBravoMurillo Bosque delosAusentes % 10am-7pm Oct & Mar, 10am-6pmNov- &Mar, 10am-7pm Oct 91 5746614; ( % Casa de las Siete Chimeneas delasSiete Casa 91 5736245; . Completed in1917 , acharming metal- is theastonishing (RoyalBotanicalGar- h , deAmérica Casa (1891).The 11am-8pm Mon- ; and,atthe h ismore (Forest 11am-8pm El Ángel

Sun) a p125; Map Decorativas deArtes Museo Give yourinnerantiquedealerathrillatthe MUSEO DEARTESDECORATIVAS map toshowtheAmericas. put togetherthefirst in1500;it’ssupposedly parchmentCosa’s mapof theknownworld, are theantiquemaps,especiallyJuandela highlights nary modelships, themuseum’s really looked like. Apartfromitsextraordi- always wondered whattheSpanisharmada .com; Paseo delPrado5;admissionfree; Naval Boat lovers willget athrillfromthe MUSEO NAVAL of note. Madrid thesidehaswonanything whenever celebrations byplayers andsupporters of Real the venue forjoyousandoften destructive butthe Ildefonso, nearSegovia, move ittothegardensof theGranjadeSan aMadridbeen favourite. IIItriedto Carlos erected in1780byVentura Rodríguez,ithas of Madrid’s mostbeautiful.Ever sinceitwas Cybele atthecentre of theplazaisalsoone cloisters nextdoor wasdemolished (despite inexorable expansion–what remained of the delPrado’s little toprotect itfromtheMuseo of Franco. achapel of Being royalchoice did Iwascrowned in1975uponthedeath Carlos splendour,thatKing mock-Isabelline Juan Spanish royalfamilyanditwashere, amidthe The chapel was traditionallyfavoured bythe reconstruction of theinterior isexquisite. ing thePeninsular Warbutthe19th-century 1.30pm &5-8.30pm) p125; the lavish Tucked delPrado, awaybehindtheMuseo IGLESIA DESANJERÓNIMOELREAL anhour.deserves you occupiedforhours butprobably only the like. Spread over five floors, itcouldkeep furniture, and ceramics,carpets,tapestries isawashwithsumptuousperiod the museum fromthe15thto19thcenturies, classes fascinating windowontothelife of theupper €2.40/1.20; idea. The Cibeles fountain has also long been idea. hasalsolongbeen TheCibelesfountain kicked upsuch afuss thatheabandonedthe The spectacular fountain of fountain thegoddess The spectacular , butit’salsoof interest who’ve tothose % Mp p125; (Map 91 4203578;CalledeRuizAlarcón19; % h 91 5326499;CalledeMontalbán12;adult/child elReal Iglesia deSanJerónimo 9.30am-3pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pmSun) % waslargely destroyed dur- 91 3795299;www.museonavalmadrid (Museum of Decorative Arts; ofDecorativeArts; (Museum lonelyplanet.com h 10am-2pm Tue- madrileños h Museo Museo (Map (Map 8am- . A

(MapThis stunningtriumphalgate p125 ) was PUERTA DEALCALÁ Gran Pradoextension. vociferous localprotests) tomake wayforthe lonelyplanet.com and Canary Islands. and Canary inthe Balearic side the ancient civilisations under ImperialRome take theirplacealong- classicalGreece in Italy, andsouthernItaly tions fromancient Egypt, Etruscancivilisation dedicated Modestcollec- archaeological buffs. the IronAge –it’sprobably more of interest to toric manandspanstheNeolithic period to civilisations. withGreek enced bycontact andPhoenician among theIberiantribes–nodoubt influ- de Elche, figures, such asthe phernalia of Room33.Elsewhere, sculpted Christian Romanesqueandlater Gothicpara- ceiling inRoom35;andthemore sombre the eye);stunninggildedMudéjardomed inRooms22and24particularlycatch (those taken fromRomanvillasacrossSpain mosaics interesting. includethestunning Highlights Mudéjar handiwork. and specimensof Romanesque,Gothicand Rome, VisigothicSpain,theMuslimconquest from prehistory totheIberiantribes,Imperial collectionspanseverythingthis delightful large collectionof artefacts cluttered isnever – isperfectpresentation –thelighting andthe lies within.WithtypicalSpanishflairfor 2.30pm Sun) Sat &alldaySun; 13;adult/student€3.01/1.50,free from2.30pm de Serrano p120; Map Nacional Arqueológico The ratherforbiddingentrancetothe MUSEO ARQUEOLÓGICONACIONAL with someexcellentmuseums. Salamanca elegance continuesintheBarrio themeofThe same grandandrarely restrained Salamanca la Independenciaasthecitygrew. 19th centurytoitspresent spotonPlazade Plaza delaCibeles,butwasmoved inthelate gate delSol,then originallylayinthePuerta to thecityandsurroundedbywalls.The Madrid in1769.Itwasoncethemainentrance built tocelebrate thearrivalof IIIin Carlos The basement contains displays onprehis- contains The basement The museum’s groundflooristhemost The museum’s % reveal aflourishing artistictradition bares littleresemblance towhat 91 5777912;www.man.esinSpanish;Calle h MADRID ••Sights 9.30am-8.30pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am- Dama deIbizaand

(National Archaeology Museum; (National ArchaeologyMuseum; Museo Museo 10am-2pm Sun) few placesworth visiting. Nevertheless, you’llfind a to formuseums. aren’tsaña themost obviousdistrictstohead trendy Chuecaandrough-and-ready Mala- Packed with uniqueshops and lively bars, &Chueca Malasaña Castellana. Paseo Paseo deEduardoDatocrosses dela sculptures are beneaththeoverpass where foremost sculptors of the20thcentury.The and Sempere Alberto Sánchez, oneof Spain’s master Catalan Joan MiróaswellEusebio renowned artist Basque Eduardo Chillida,the abstracts (Map p120 ) includesworksbythe This fascinatingopen-aircollectionof 17 MUSEO DELAESCULTURA ABSTRACTA Antonio delaFlorida. La Maja are hungtogether tomake acollage, including Room 14someof Goya’smore famousworks ofoddball assembly allsortsof In collectables. and Gainsborough thisisarather Constable, Ribera, Goya, ClaudioCoello, from worksby El Greco, van Eyck, Bosch, Zurbarán, 13,000 worksof artandobjets d’art century Italianatestonemansionwithsome 4.30pm Wed-Mon) 122;adult/student€4/3; 60 84;CalledeSerrano The MUSEO LÁZARO GALDIANO centuries-old booksof theTorah. Arabic texts, illuminated manuscriptsand avarietyofany bibliophileyearningtosee after renovations –are aworthwhilestopfor over reopens delLibro–ifitever totheMuseo given students,butthesections for serious 20;admissionfree; de losRecoletos Nacional on theavenues of Madrid, the1892 grand edificeserected inthe19thcentury One of of themostoutstanding themany DEL LIBRO BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL &MUSEO (see Cantabria p509 ). the prehistoric cave paintingsof in Altamira Outside, stairs leaddowntoapartialcopyof tothe19thcenturies. from the16ththrough toSpanishroyaltyandcourtlife pertaining Plaza deColón.Thereading roomsare more The 1st floor contains allsortsofThe 1stfloorcontains items LázaroGaldiano Museo (National Library; andthefrescoes of deSan theErmita dominates thesouthernendof is animposingearly-20th-

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135 MADRID MADRID MADRID Calle deFernando VI4; wealthy 10am-2pm Sun Jul-Sep) Rodríguez 17;adult/child €2.40/1.20; Cerralbo the noble oldmansionthathouses buildings northwestof PlazadeEspaña,the Huddled beneaththemodernapartment MUSEO DECERRALBO gigasamusicvenue.night a in summertheone-timebarracksalso does photography andgraphicart.Nowthen ish andinternational paintings,sculpture, 10.30am-2.30pm Sun) poraneo; admissionfree; ( deMadrid Contemporáneo deArte Municipal Museo withinitswallsisthe Spain). Alsocontained lection of newspapers andmagazines inall the Hemeroteca Municipal(thebiggest col- governmenthouses archives, librariesand pp118-19; (Map districtthisformidable formerbarracks saña Dominating thewestern edge of theMala- ANTIGUO CUARTEL DELCONDEDUQUE Architecture Day. Monday of October,which isInternational discouraged. Theonlyexceptionisonthefirst casualvisitorsas wellbecause are actively more impressive fromthestreet, which isjust ernisme andoneof akindinMadrid. It’sfar odeto It’s ajoyouslyself-indulgent Mod- tores ing thatisthe The swirling,meltingweddingcake of abuild- Y EDITORES SOCIEDAD GENERALDEAUTORES 1830s Madrid onthegroundfloor. worth lingering over istheexpansive model of are Goya’sAllegory of the City of Madrid. Also ofevolution Madrid, of which thehighlights other memorabilia charting thehistorical & Aug) Sun Sep-Jun, 10am-2pmSat&SunJul 9.30am-2.30pmTue-Fri, 78; admissionfree; CalledeFuencarral72; www.munimadrid.es/museomunicipal; The fine MUSEO MUNICIPAL 136 The interior isdominated bypaintingsand in1721byPedroentrance, raised deRibera. Madrid comestotheworkof AntoniGaudí. 10am-3pm Sun Oct-May, 10am-1pm Mon,9.30am-2pmTue-Sat, 10am-3pm SunOct-May, % 91 5882928;www.munimadrid.es/museoartecontem hasanelaborate andrestored baroque (General Society of Authors & Editors; Map SocietyofAuthors &Editors;Map (General pp118-19 ; MADRID ••Sights (Map (Map pp118-19 ; Municipal Museo oncelived.madrileños The former % h Sociedad General de Autores yEdi- deAutores Sociedad General 91 5885771;CalleCondeDuque9) , withcontemporary Span- 9.30am-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pmSat& 9.30am-8pm Tue-Fri, h islike anapparition of how h % 1st MoninOct) 10am-2pm &5.30-9pmTue-Sat, 91 5473646;CalledeVentura Mp pp118-19; (Map h 9.30am-3pm Tue-Sat, is as close as isasclose % Museo de Museo 91 58886

unjustly accused ofunjustly accused hismurder. Aroundthem fromthegraveto rise andabsolve hisfather, St Anthony,whoiscallingonayoungman in 1798ontherequest of IV.Carlos aspainted bythemasterits originalsetting, is oneof thefew placestosee Goya’s workin Goya, thesouthernof thetwosmallchapels restored andalsoknownasthePanteón de Madrid’s mostsurprisingsecrets. Recently 10am-2pmSat&Sun) 2pm &4-8pmTue-Fri, 5;admissionfree; de SanAntoniolaFlorida nio delaFlorida The frescoed ceilingsof the ERMITA DESANANTONIOLAFLORIDA Chamberí &Argüelles Éxtasis Francisco deSan by Zurbarán,Ribera,vanDyckandElGreco’s tastes, especiallyonceyoufactorinartworks ceramics. of Sèvres, WedgwoodandMeissen, andlocal Murano glass,Bohemiantheporcelain crystal, agondolaofMoroccan kilimsandtapestries, suitsofthe groundfloorcontains armour, gala dininghallandagrandballroom,while it’s astudyin19th-centuryopulence. andarchaeologist – 1922) –politician,poet home of the17thMarqués(1845– deCerralbo the Palacio Real are quite special. views from thesurrounding gardenstowards blockby toSpainin1968.The and sent formedbytheAswan Nasser, Dam, Lake High Sun Oct-Mar) 10am-2pmSat& 9.45am-1.45pm&4.15-6.15pmTue-Fri, Sep, h .es/templodebod; Paseo delPintor Rosales;admissionfree; Debod In theParque the delaMontaña, Egyptian temple sitsintheheart of Madrid. Remarkably, thisauthentic4th-century-BC TEMPLO DEDEBOD exilein1828. imposed Bordeaux (France),where hediedinself- His remains were transferred in1919from the humanabove thedivine. confined withinthemores of theday,places be onetolethimself activity, butGoya,never appear inthecupola,above alltheterrestrial this kindof scenetheangels andcherubs swarms atypicalMadrid crowd.Usually in Those onthedomedepictmiracleofThose Clearly themarquess wasamanof diverse The upperfloorof boastsa themuseum The painter isburiedinfrontof thealtar. 10am-2pm & 6-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pmSat&SunApr- 10am-2pm &6-8pmTue-Fri, Mp pp118-19; (Map wassaved fromtherisingwaters of Mp pp114-15; (Map % 91 3667415;www.munimadrid . % Ermita deSanAnto- 91 542 07 22; Glorieta 91 5420722;Glorieta lonelyplanet.com are oneof Templo de h 10am- ing, fishing andwar,alongwithsome of the jewelleryandinstrumentsofstatuary, hunt- lonelyplanet.com The Colombian goldcollection, datingbackto backbythe colonisers. paraphernalia brought Sun) €3/1.50/free, Sunfree; 549 2641;Avenida Católicos6;adult/student/child delosReyes century. The and economyfrom1492untiltheearly 20th Americas wasacentralpartof Spain’sculture Travel to,andtradewith, thenewlydiscovered DE MONCLOA MUSEO DEAMÉRICA &FARO 6am onMonday. from11pmonFridayuntil traffic to wheeled thepark clients, thecityauthoritiesnowclose with prostitutesTodeprive bynight. themof oughfare thepark,waslined runningthrough amainthor-ago, thePaseo deCamoens, since itscreation in1906.Untilafew years a the day.Ithasbeen corners torecline underatree intheheatof 15 ) isquite beautiful,withplenty of shady metro station, Sloping downthehillbehindMoncloa PARQUE DELOESTE impressive two-metre brainthewindowisnosalesgimmick. eggs andtomatoes. route andrunners–whopassthroughstreets warmingupforNewYear’s Eve –are pelted with more unusualracesinEurope, mostathletes are fun-runners infancydress; musicianslinethe course leadsfromPlazadeCastilla (Map p113 ) outtoVallecas, southofthecentre. Oneofthe religious items withanastonishingchapeldownstairs. an annualblessingofpets. The 13June furry friendsflocktotheIglesiadeSanAntón(Map pp118–19 ) fortheFiesta deSanAntón The festivals ofMadrid can be paradiseforlovers oftheoffbeat.On17January,localsandtheir QUIRKY MADRID pp122-3; % Silvestre Vallecana Madrid withaseaport. lecas stagesa‘navalbattle’(amassive water fight)todemandthatthegovernment provide de Vallecas achance?AndJulywelcomesthe inclined ornot,theattitudeseemstobe,whytake the ErmitadeSanAntoniolaFlorida( opposite ) topetitionforapartner. Whetherspiritually 522 2383;www.santarrufina.com; CalledelaPaz 9) suit starts at€2500,whilethesexypinktightsare astealsuit starts at€50. lights, thetraditionalglittering bullfightingsuit)madeinallitsintricate excess. Acustom-made hasarepresentative displayof ceramics, Always wanted tobeatorero butjustdidn’thave athingtowear? Shopping inMadridisalsoaboutmore thanbullfightingposters andfrillyflamencodresses. From thesublimetoridiculous. 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3pm Tue-Sun) wax characters. answer toMadame withover Tussaud’s 450 hop-on-hop-off overview of hop-on-hop-off overview thecity. 21 Dec-20 Mar, 10am-9pmrest ofyear) 21 Dec-20Mar, under 7yrfree; €8/10, €14.50/19,7-16yr&seniorover65yr1-/2-dayticket ticket sion The orange double-decker of buses Bus Tours thecity. may betheidealwaytosee intoashortvisit,guidedtours of sightseeing If you’re pushed fortimeandwanttofitalot TOURS and boatrides. where insummerthere are puppetshows Madrid playatthe Real enjoy asmuch asthekidsincludeseeing 10am-8.30pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, 41; adult/under7yr€12/8; Paseo319 2649;www.museoceramadrid.com; delosRecoletos .org; Paseo delasDelicias61;adult/child€4/2.50; include the first drink. delSol.Prices inPuerta from the bearstatue language tours central Madrid tapas through tours €40; ( the Habsburgs. Taverns, andMadrid Madrid of of Cervantes ends of OldMadrid, TraditionalShops and bons, Velázquez andElBuenRetiro, Leg- €3.20/2.60) 27;adult/child,student&senior PlazaMayor madrid.com; offers deTurismoMadridThe Centro ( p111 ) Tours Walking directlypurchased onthebus. offices ormosttravel agencies. Tickets are takes Madrid’. you around ‘Monumental 2 isdedicated to‘ModernMadrid’; andRte 3 makes ajauntaround‘HistoricalMadrid’; Rte follow themessuch asMadrid of theBour- metro station isDelicias.) metro station to fascinate buddingengineers. (Thenearest engines andmore. It’sdefinitely guaranteed greenery of theParque delBuenRetiro ( p162 thesoothing ) orwanderingthrough % There are three routes aroundtown:Rte 1 The privately-run Other possibilitiesthattheparents may You canget more informationattourist The 639 331073;www.adventurousappetites.com; 4-hour ( % Madrid Descubre deCera Museo 91 779 18 88; www.madridvision.es; adult 1-/2-day adult1-/2-day 91 7791888;www.madridvision.es; –dozensof guideditinerariesthat h h ishometooldrailwaycars, train 8pm Mon-Sat) 9.30am-midnight 21 Jun-20 Sep, 10am-7pm 10am-7pm 9.30am-midnight 21Jun-20Sep, h (Wax Museum; Map Map (Wax Museum; p120 ; Estadio SantiagoBernabéu 10am-2.30pm &4.30-8.30pm Adventurous Appetites Appetites Adventurous organises English- ( % is Madrid’s modest provide theusual 902 221622;www.es lonelyplanet.com Madrid Vi- Madrid h (p133), % 10am- 91

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Ferial JuanCarlosIexhibitioncentre nearBarajasairport. exhibitors fromallovertheworld.It’sstagedinParque and Arcodrawsgalleries celebrations ofcontemporaryart, .arco.ifema.es; mid-February) OneofEurope’sbiggest four-hour tours. Make byphone reservations incl picniclunch€55) Tours Londoner Mike Chandlerorganises Cycling Tours Arco February madrid.es orwww.esmadrid.com. There’s more informationonlineatwww.muni city besure tolookoutforthefollowingevents. about national festivals see p847 , buthere inthe isgoodfora cuse Madrid loves anyex- toparty,andseemingly FESTIVALS &EVENTS youatacentrallocation. up ormeet or email,andthetourguidewilleitherpickyou Acuarela h geared towardsgaysandlesbians,while as books,magazinesandvideos. adsandthe Shanguide whichisjammedwithlistingsandcontact % 64) Café nightout isthesophisticatedmale angelguardsthedoorway.Alsogoodforalow-key right onPlazadeChueca,isadimly-litcentrepiece ofgayMadrid–ahugestatuenude restaurants andshops. welcome; it’soneofthemostlively barriosinMadridwithanabundanceofgay-friendlybars, reforms were bymore ofSpaniards. supported thantwo-thirds At thetimethere backlash,butopinionpollsshowedthatthe wassomethingofaconservative marriagesnowenjoythesamelegalprotection asthosebetweenheterosexual partners.same-sex It’s agreat timetobegayinMadrid.UnderlawspassedbytheSpanishCongress inJune2005, GAY &LESBIANMADRID has amainly gayclientele. bars inMadrid. Cool all aboutintimacyanddiscretion. top-40s musicare thestandardhere. crowd whocomehere are pretty Popand amorous)andit’sfullnearlyevery nightoftheweek. 3.30am Fri &Sat) 3.30am Fri pp118-19; 31; CalledelaVirgen losPeligros 4; (Feria Internacional de Arte Contemporánea; www (Feria InternacionaldeArte Another goodplacetogetthelowdownongayMadridislaid-back The inner-city gay,althougheveryone’s barrioofChuecaisexuberantlyandextravagantly For a place to rest your head, look no further thantheexcellent For aplacetorest yourhead, look nofurther For somethingalittlemore upbeat,thecosy Other goodhouse clubspopularwithapredominantlyOther gaycrowd include ( operates anunofficialinformationcentre like forgayMadrid;here you’llfindthebi-weekly 10.30pm-late) 91 5413500;PlazadelCallao4; %

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all usuallydisplayedonanoticeinreception €30/44/54; www.metropolhostel.com; 1stfl,CalledelaMontera47;s/d/tr ers’ Hostel couple of blocksaway, Amigos hasrecently openedanotherhostel a four to12people(withfree lockers). Los from dorm-styleroomsthatsleep bright are (andspeakEnglish) andthere savvy are for you–lotsof here, studentsstay thestaff keen forcompany,thiscouldbetheplace pomanes 6;dm€16-17; 547 1707;www.losamigoshostel.com;4thfl,CalledeCam- Hostel Los AmigosBackpackers’ BUDGET to bebased. while inMadrid andis,therefore, agoodplace ably thearea where you’llspendthemosttime taverns, restaurants andshops, thisisprob- dation acrossarange of budgets, traditional With awealthof historicalsites, accommo- Sol&Centro Los Austrias, begin andend. hoteliers actually aboutwhentheseasons by,butthere’sor close littleagreement among once homely andloaded with impeccable, that runs pastPlazaMayor, this i 8;s/d€53/59; www.silserranos.com; 1stfl,CavadeSan Miguel with naturallight. andareing sunnyPlazadelCarmen flooded Street-facing roomshave balconiesoverlook- double-glazed beds. windowsandcomfortable marble floors, recently renovated bathrooms, is acutabove manyMadrid hostels, with €42/52/71; www.hostalacapulco.com; 4thfl,CalledelaSalud13;s/d/tr abovebuilding, high centralMadrid. balcony stretching aroundthecornerof the lous views;Room11isthebestwithacircular grand old19th-centurybuilding,have fabu- The street-facing ina set roomsinthishostal, .hostalorly.com; 7thfl,CalledelaMontera47;s/d/tr€32/45/56) vibe, achilled ambience. that few hostels have –anattitude,ayoung congregate here forthatspecial something dm €16-19). a wholelotof character. Butyoungtravellers great. Infact,they’re simpleanddon’thave Hostal Macarena Hostal Acapulco Hostal Orly Metropol Hostel ) On oneof the old,cobblestonestreets ai i ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ) It’s notthattheroomshere are Mp pp122-3; (Map 91 5592472;4thfl,CalledeArenal 26; ) Thisimmaculate littlehostal i Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map ) Ifyouarrive inMadrid Los AmigosSolBackpack- % (Map pp122-3 ; pp122-3; (Map 91 5313012;www lonelyplanet.com % % % 91 5311945; hostal isat 91 5212935; 91 3659221; % 91

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com to bemore centralthanthisclassic140-year- 01 88;CalledeAlcalá2;s/d€70/90; MIDRANGE the occasionalantiquewritingdesk. cious anddecorated inwarmcolours, with old-style charm. Theroomsare nicelyspa- lonelyplanet.com dark surfaces. contrasting smoothlywith muted colours and ceilings andsimplefurniture,high tones light ing inthelobby. Rooms are spacious,with in black,blackwalls andswirlsof red light- of dressed Madrid’s all latest–staff nightclub s €77-99,d€114-149; 48; www.room-matehoteles.com; CalledeCampomanes4; basins. stainless-steel with touches of red andmodernfixtures like but theroomsare decorated inneutraltones lobby –thelatter isof atired, 1970svintage, tion dollars ontheroomsratherthan a .anacohotel.com; CalledelasTres Cruces3;s/d/tr€78/97/131; and reclinable beds. with armchairs, wi-fi access,soundsystems brilliant. Roomsare sophisticated andcome down GranVíafromthecornerroomsare faceonto thestreet andtheviews floor doesn’t city centre. Unusually, onlyoneroomoneach ceals someof themostattractive roomsinthe One of centralMadrid’s prettiest façadescon- .playasenator.com; GranVía21;s€75-120,d€85-140; in theroomprice. and areasonable breakfast buffet isincluded kitsch, theowners exudeanold-stylegrace plant-filled courtyard).Roomsare elegantly interior rooms(which lookontoapleasant, can beaproblem,soconsideroneof the old hotel overlooking delSol.Noise thePuerta of centralMadrid. little terraces withwonderfulrooftop views beams, anddesignerlamps,have lovely boast minimalistdark-woodfloors and furniture.wrought-iron Theatticrooms ive, colourscheme somewithalight and extremely Theroomsare helpfulstaff. attract- elements of this150-year-old buildingand you’ll findstylish décor,charming original Sitting justacrossfromPlazaMayor, here .h-plazamayor.com; CalledeAtocha2;s/dfrom€59/79; PlazaMayor Hotel boutique hotel islike crossingthethreshold RoomMate Mario Anaco Hotel Senator Hotel Paris Hotel ) Welike aplacethatspendsitsrenova- Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map MADRID ••Sleeping ai Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map ) Entering thisswanky % a % % 91 5216491;fax531 % ) 91 5224604;www 91 5314151;www It’s impossible 91 3600606;www % 91 54885 as a ) ) ask foran interior room. until Sunday morning–if you wanttosleep, whole area inuproarfrom Fridayafternoon isMadrid’sHuertas beating heartwiththe &Atocha Huertas equipment. rooftop gymequippedwithstate-of-the-art smallish butnewandclean.There’s asmall chill, whilethefour- to eight-bed roomsare retractable roof –isawonderfulplaceto buzzing vibe. The1st-floor courtyard –with Hostel, Mad Hostel issimilarlyfilledwitha youCat’s peoplewhobrought From thesame .madhostel.com; CalledeCabeza24;dm€15-17; Hostel Mad BUDGET and ahummingnightlife. twisting cobblestone lanes,great restaurants istheheartof OldMadrid,Latina awashwith area thatyoucouldonlyfindinMadrid. La few it’sallabout immersion sites inan tosee, well-beaten touristtrackandwhilethere are extractsyoufromthe inLavapiés Staying La Latina&Lavapiés innovations. ofround outtheeffect cleanlinesandlatest alaptop insomerooms,allhelpingto even bathroom fittings,internet access pointsand are room, alongwiththelatest inevery TVs splashes of fuchsia andlime-green. Flat-screen whites andgreys, withdark-woodfloors and malist luxury.Thecolourscheme isblacks, or herlipsandcreated amasterwork of mini- d €120-180; .hotelmeninas.com; CalledeCampomanes7;s€89-110, of placewhere aninterior designerlicked his Meninas Hotel Postas 17;dfrom€100; 3 ; Petit Palace PosadadelPeine AUTHOR’S CHOICE service isanotherhighlight. service the bathroomssparkle. Friendly,attentive beautifully appointed andspacious, hi-tech roomsare supremely comfortable, just 50mfromPlazaMayor. The modern historic buildingwithabrilliantlocation– years, thePetit Palace combinesasplendid hotels toopenincentralMadridrecent % 91 5238151;www.hthotels.com; Callede i (Map pp122-3 ; pp122-3; (Map ) Opened in2005,thisisthesort Mp pp122-3; (Map a % ) Oneofthebest % 91 5064840;www 91 5412805;www

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Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map ai % % 91 532 90 49; www.hotelesquo.com; Calle de Sevilla 4;s€110-156,dfrom€156; 91 5329049;www.hotelesquo.com; Calle deSevilla 91 3697120;www.hotelmiau % ) Now here’s some- % % 91 429 57 56; fax 91 429 91 4295756;fax 902 889192,91 91 3690234;www More than the More thanthe ai ) Hotel Urban Hotel TOP END Madrid’s mostexcitingnewhotels. weren’t available, butexpectittobeoneof time of research pricesandotherinformation iconic Hard of RockCafés theworld.At hotel youthe runbythepeoplewhobrought Ana wasbeingtransformedintoastylish new of research, thewestern endof PlazadeSanta PlazadeSantaAna14) www.hardrock.com; and ahipvibeinthepublicareas. with plazaviews,are weddedtocoolservice for thegood.Stylishlyclassyrooms,some thattheendlesschange(2006) isevidence is rarely stillforlongandthisnewhotel stands is .room-matehoteles.com; CalledelPrado2;s/dfrom€90/100; room. and balconiesoffevery simple, warmcolourscheme, hardwoodfloors lions –andtheroomsboastrusticchic, witha guardedbymarble staircase and asweeping exquisite –apalm-filled, light-drenched patio aces, thiscouldbeforyou.Thepublicareas are ai www.hoteles-catalonia.es; CalledeAtocha23;s/dfrom€90/100; if you’re here onaweekend. glazed windowsare especially alsoimportant, evening. geous terrace isheaven onacandlelitsummer’s swimming poolisMadrid’s bestandthegor- the wash-basins are sublime. Therooftop bathrooms have wonderfuldesignerfittings– walls are byplentyof whilethe offset light, of longer Dark-woodfloors standing. anddark more classiccharm of Madrid’s five-star hotels modern art,it’sawonderfulantidote tothe stylish designercool.Withitscleanlinesand Urban istheepitomeof art-inspired, super- ais .derbyhotels.com; 34;d€160-320; Carrera deSanJerónimo Hard RockHotel Alicia RoomMate Moratín Catalonia ) ) Thearea Ana aroundPlazadeSanta If youlike yourhotels tobeformerpal- ) The toweringglassedificeof Hotel Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Mp pp122-3; (Map (Map pp122-3 ; pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map % % 91 7877770;www lonelyplanet.com % % 91 3896095;www At thetime 91 5314500; 91 3697171; ai ) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com .com; Paseo €99-128,Mon-Thu delPrado48;dFri-Sun €169; options. its charm butratherlowonaccommodation Retiro, thissophisticated districtisknownfor Near the‘BigThree’ andtheshadyParque del Paseo delPrado&ElRetiro lonelyplanet.com drid, this modernandsubtly stylish hotel isa streets of away fromthenoise central Ma- valuequiet,exclusivemanca, orotherwise If you’re here onamission toshop in Sala- Hermosilla Hesperia MIDRANGE quieter choice thantherest of thecapital. shopping thecityhastooffer. 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MADRID MADRID MADRID www.ac-hoteles.com; 5thfl,CalledeZurbano36;s€250, 148 a high degreea high of taste. this hishomeforsixmonths suggests certainly tomakemany things,butthefactthathechose bad either. maybederidedfor David Beckham ably lavish; theArabian-styledindoorpoolisn’t androomsare suit- elegance andwarmservice, in abarrioof many.Thisisaplaceof discreet real estate–tothemansionthatisfinest the address –oneof theelite patches of Madrid d €250-365) SantoMauro AC Hotel TOP END well asbars, shopsandrestaurants. residential, sprinkledwithelegantfaçades,as ofthe mainsights interest. Argüelles ismore here.staying You’re ashortmetroridefrom feel lesslike atourist andmore like alocalby measure rants injusttheright andyou’llquickly Chamberí hasbars, shops,cinemasandrestau- Chamberí &Argüelles rooms aren’t larger. end of theday.It’sjustapitysomeof the you’ll bemore thanhappytoreturn toatthe roomsthat andcomfortable modern, bright from the19th-centuryinpublicareas and stone wallsandoccasionaldark-woodbeams www.hostal-lorenzo.com; CalledeClavel8;s/dfrom€60/80) Hostal SanLorenzo MIDRANGE vated placeoozes exclusivityandclass,from Hostal SanLorenzoHostal isaterrific deal:original América 41;d€225-300; América Avenida54 00;www.hotelpuertaamerica.com; de Hotel Puerta América Puerta Hotel AUTHOR’S CHOICE architect. garage eachhadtheirownand parking taurant, façade,gardens, publiclighting (‘a temple totheliturgy ofpleasure’), res- a movie star’sdressing room.Even thebar chic tobrightred bathroomsthatfeel like minimalism orzanymontagesof1980s pasticheofstyles,fromcurvy extravagant them aflooreachtodesign.The result? An tecture’s mostinnovative namesandgive cial. Their idea?Take someofworldarchi- they knewhadtodosomething spe- halfway betweenthecityandairport, owners ofthishotel attheirlocation looked MADRID ••Eating Everything aboutthisrecently reno- Mp pp118-19; (Map Mp p120; (Map iap

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MADRID MADRID MADRID Campomanes 6;meals€25; de laBola5;meals€20-35; chilled andcosyindoor diningarea. (€4.50 to €6),andinternational food inthe terraza, butitalsohasadelicious range of cakes than nursing a way tospendasummer’s afternoon orevening 11am-midnight Sun,8pm-2amMon) 14; sandwiches€3-5,mealsfrom€13; Delic BUDGET down thehillyougo,better itgets. cultural and,generally speaking,the further ismoredecades. Lavapiés eclecticandmulti- perfecting traditional with atmosphericoldtabernas who’ve been share of throwbackstoanotherMadrid era, casual clientele, butyou’llalsofindyourfair cool, stylish interiors andequally cooland leave disappointed.There’s anemphasison Bajade laCava andPlazadelaPaja andnot pick of anyof therestaurants around Calle youcouldjustabout take your Latina In La La Latina&Lavapiés inthevaulted cellarisatreat.Eating (roast lamb)cooked inthewood-fired ovens. cochinillo (sucklingpig)and Also Rises. Thesecret of itsenduranceisfine Madrid, mostnotably Hemingway’s that ithasappeared inmanynovels about the world(1725).Andthenthere’s thefact has recognised itastheoldestrestaurant in theGuinness BookofFor astart, Records €35-45) 366 4217;www.botin.es;CalledelosCuchillerosmeals good placetodoso. cocido alamadrileña inclined toagree, andifyou’re goingtotry 1880) alwaysfeatures nearthetop.We’re cuisine, Taberna Bola(goingstrongsince La food-loving localsformosttraditionalMadrid traditional riceconcoctions. from wokdishes andbaked tomore salmon is youngandtrendy, andthecookingranges theglassroof,sunshine through thecrowd its charm. Thediningroomisfloodedwith partof ViudaBlancaisanessential and La ing oneof centralMadrid’s cooleststreets Mon) Blanca La Viuda MIDRANGE 150 Restaurante Sobrino deBotín Sobrino Restaurante Taberna LaBola (Map pp122-3; (Map Calle de Campomanes isquicklybecom- deCampomanes Calle MADRID ••Eating This placeisfamousformanyreasons. mojito atDelic’sPlazade laPaja Mp pp122-3; (Map % Mp pp122-3; (Map 91 364 54 50; Costanilla de San Andrés 91 3645450;CostanilladeSanAndrés h h (stew; €16.80),thisisa madrileño madrileño closed Aug) lunch &dinnerTue-Sat, lunch % h % There’s nofiner

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and issomething of alocallandmark. The derfully restored 17th-centuryinn(posada) is undoubtedly oneof Madrid’s bestvegetar- and othervegetarian specialities,ElEstragón its groovy vibe. pers) are –butit’sbestknownfor ahighlight in cider)or good –the murals andjazzorlounge music.Thefood’s bohemian andchilled, withfunky,swirling shows nosignof abating.Theatmosphere is BugadelLobo thepopularityof Lavapiés, La Sat) Ruda 5;meals€25-30; Mon) Calle deArgumosa11;meals€20-25; won’t appreciate of theuse butter. ian restaurants, attentive although vegans 10; meals€20-25; El Estragón MIDRANGE (€8.50). as weekdays has a it agreat choice forlunch and, unusually,it food (allvegetarian) ishome-cooked, making The room andfriendly,family-styleservice. feels like eatingathome, withjustonedining Sat, dinnerFri; 11; CalledeArgumosa10;meals€10-15; atmosphere isformal, thedecoration sombre Mon-Sat, SunlunchSep-Jul) Calle delaCavaBaja9; meals€35-40; are otherhighlights. bias rojasdeTolosa FineNavarranis outstanding. winesand huge chop of top-quality,juicymeat)fortwo dominated menu–the aesthetic toaccompanyitsexcellent, meat- fine Navarran restaurant hasasubtlymodern that islike smokingwithoutinhaling. localswouldargueway, although thatdoing Madrid’s favourite dishwithoutgoingallthe cocido; €5)atthebarisagreat waytotry eat (€18).Its the specialityisasmuch the compactdiningarea’s tiledwalls,and The clamourof conversation bouncesoffthe enjoying theirfavourite localfood,comehere. de laCavaBaja8;meals€35; Malacatín La BugadelLobo Posada delaVilla Julián deTolosa El GranerodeLavapiés( If you want to see discerningmadrileños Ifyouwanttosee One of the‘in’placesincoolandgritty menú deldíaonSaturday(€10)aswell Mp pp122-3; (Map v chorizo frío Mp pp122-3; (Map pimientos rellenos pep- (stuffed v ) degustación decocido This cosyvegetarian restaurant ) Mp pp122-3; (Map A delightful spotforcrepesA delightful h (Map (Map pp122-3 ; Mp pp122-3; (Map (red beansfromTolosa) % lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, lunch lunch &dinnerMon-Fri, The Posada isawon- The Posada h de sidra (coldchorizo Map Map pp122-3 ; 91 3658982;PlazadelaPaja % chuletón (basicallya closed dinnerSun) cocido asyoucan 91 3655241;Callede % h h lonelyplanet.com h % % 91 3658210;Calle 11am-2am Wed- lunch Mon-Thu & lunch &dinner 91 4676151; 91 3661860; % (taste of (taste 91 46776 This alu-

lonelyplanet.com and there’s often aqueue atlunchtime. take reservations Fincadoesn’t fine choice. La isa andgarlicmayonnaise) dles withseafood noo- conali-oli(smallpasta crowd. Thefideua strips). doughnut chocolate conchurros cost around€6to€10).It’salsofamous for an oldfavourite) andothersnacks(raciones for itsbocadillos (thebocadillo decalamares and no-frills bar-eatery isaMadrid institution deArte ReinaSofía,by theCentro thisbreezy Drumén 7;bocadillosaround€3-5; El Brillante BUDGET equallyrich pickings. Prado promises del while headingdownthehillaroundCalle Ana, delSolandPlazadeSanta Puerta between as well.Thepickof theplacesisinlanes forte, but there are plentyof goodrestaurants drinkingisaHuertas (orall-night) Late-night &Atocha Huertas known tofrequent thisplace. which isthemainreason theKingof Spainis inabundance, and, aLuciospeciality,eggs roasted meats style cooking–thinkseafood, touch,light qualityingredients andhome- wowing has been (tripe) and and thecuisinedecidedlylocal– and traditional(heavy timberandbrickwork) Calle deArlabán4;menú€7.50,meals€15) and traditionalfood thatdrawsahipyoung greenery ismatched byamixof innovative dining area withsoft andplentyof lighting la CavaBaja35;meals€35-45; La Finca deSusana Lucio Casa 91; CalledelNuncio19;meals€25-30) chill-out bedsare pure indulgence. day pintxos (tapas)tochoosefrom.The week- ish-Asian fusionandthere are alsoplentyof the tuneofloungemusic. The foodisSpan- the youngandfriendlywaiters circulate to area awashwithreds andpurples,while andstylishwiththediningcutting-edge is anythingbutold-world.The designis from oneofMadrid’soldestchurches,Ene Ene Restaurante AUTHOR’S CHOICE menú deldíacosts€11.The downstairs Mp p125; (Map sopa deajo(garlicsoup). Mp pp122-3; (Map MADRID ••Eating foragesmadrileños withhis

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dinner Mon-Sat,lunchSun) 8;meals€35-45; .com; Carrera deSanJerónimo ning adinnerpartyof You gourmettapas. plan- itemsdelicatessen that’s idealforthose (since 1839)isaneleganttreasure-trove of attention fortheir lan chefs have capturing theworld’s been meals €70-80; Balzac TOP END ers home. wait outsidetoferry custom- thewell-heeled atmosphere andlimousines is thepervasive eating istaken very classiccharm seriously, exclusive restaurants. establishments, Inthese Prado, you’llcomeacrossahandful of fairly Parque del delBuenRetiroandtheMuseo In thediscreet residential enclave between Paseo delPrado&ElRetiro and specialities are Madrid dishes such as can alsositdowntofullmeals(thehouse thrown in(thesecret’s inthesauce). while there are alsoafew splashesof creativity include cider, theregion’sto sample cuisine. Thestaples restaurant isoneof thebestplacesinarea this sophisticated Basque delasLetras, Barrio 3; meals€30-35; delasHuertas. on Calle There isanotherbranch aroundthecorner (€8.25), downedwithacrispwhite Ribeiro. such as Galician seafood, stuckintoclassic attention. Get creakand tables of under theweight somuch meals €15-20; at GranVía1. this meat-loving city.There’s anotherbranch isexcellentin vegetarian buffet andthesalad The foodisamixed bagbutleanstowards to create anambiencethat’scampandsnappy. help dressed andsexily waitingstaff lighting food. Thebare brickwalls,parquetfloor,stage fun mid-1990s, Gulacontinuestoserve designer restaurants tohitMadrid backinthe 5; meals€15-20; Gula MIDRANGE rive here earlyasthesimplewoodenbenches (partridge stew). Maceira Lhardy Zerain cocido Mp p125; (Map Mp pp122-3 ; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map h h (stew), as wellas h h Mon-Sat) lunch &dinnerTue-Sun, dinnerMon) bacalao andwonderfulsteaks, 9am-3am Tue-Sun) % Mon-Sat) nouvelle cuisine, Madrid’s 91 4200613;Callede Moreto 7; % % % While Basque andCata- While Basque This Madrid landmark % 91 4202919;CalledelInfante 91 429 79 09; Calle Quevedo 91 4297909;CalleQuevedo Intheheartof the 91 429 15 84; Calle de Jesús 7; 91 4291584;CalledeJesús 91 5222207;www.lhardy pulpo alagallega Oneof thefirst perdiz estofado raciones h lunch & callos Ar- 151 of of

MADRID MADRID MADRID Sun) Juan 5;meals €35-40) de Aranda11;meals€30; is awashwith greenery and isafavoured haunt Gardens Thai TOP END footprints! check outtheloos,where youleave luminous ‘Made inSpain’ toFusion.Whileyou’re there, in. Thefoodfollowsthefashion,ranging from tolooklikeyou’ll need George Clooneytofit on thestage, andit’sthe kind of placewhere former Teatro litbarright hasaneerily Beatriz 15; meals€30-40) isgood. speciality,buteverything house croquetas demanzana emerging fromyourgrandma’skitchen. The creative cookingatitsbestanditfeels like it’s what theownercalls‘baroquevegetarian’. Itis white andlime-green décor.curvy gorgonzola almostasmuch cheese) asthe frescos congorgonzola (fresh mushrooms and twist. Weenjoyedthepaniniof burger, roastchicken orpaniniwithacreative a terrific placetoget afreshly prepared ham- concept (foodthat’sfastbuthealthy),andit’s to dosomethingabout it.Fast Goodisasimple growing obsessionwithfastfood,hedecided ran AdriàbecameconcernedaboutSpaniards’ h Fast Good MIDRANGE intimate densof creative home-cooking. tofusionrestaurants tapas and and Basque kept eatingsecrets, fromthebesthotdogs manca isalsohometosomeof Madrid’s best- are We’ve high. listed afew of them,butSala- left forvaletparkingandpricesquality places where thekeys toJags andBMWsare sive astheshopsthatfillbarrio,sortof inSalamancaistraditionallyasexclu- Eating Salamanca isalsoimpeccable. spirit’. Theservice calls ‘innovation, andrebellious risk-taking madrileño ing plaudits.Hisfaithfulnesstotraditional Andrés Madrigal quietlygather- hasbeen 152 is arevelation, witharoundhalfthedishes intimatedelightfully diningarea. Thefood you couldbeinthesouthof France,withits Teatriz La Galette noon-midnight) Walkintothislovely littlerestaurant and MADRID ••Eating Mp p120; (Map Mp p2 Calle p120; (Map cooking has been fused towhathe fused cooking hasbeen Mp p120; (Map Mp p120 ; (Map Designed byPhilippethe Stark, When the star Catalan chef Catalan When thestar Fer- Thissophisticated restaurant % h 91 5775379;CalledelaHermosilla % % (applecroquettes) are a lunch &dinnerMon-Sat, de JuanBravo3;meals€10; 91 5760641;CalledelConde 91 577 88 84; Calle de Jorge 91 5778884;CalledeJorge champiñones brilliant. de caña withhoney) is (deep-fried eggplant twists thrownin – the of Spanish favourites withafew surprising ciones here (around€6to€8)include plenty exudes modishness and is where Barcelonan exudes modishnessandiswhere Barcelonan Linares, thisuniqueplace’sminimalistdécor 445 4170;CalledeSanBernardo85;meals€15) de Bilbao7; glorious, oldMadrid a caféproudlyfights Comercial Café BUDGET there are alsoplentyof placeswhere tabernas abound,each withitsspeciality,but some of thebestplacestoeatinMadrid. Old expensive dining,Malasaña andChuecahave Unless you’re after theexclusivityof fineand &Chueca Malasaña rounded bysmallerannexes. room, dominated bywhites andblacks,issur- withit.Theelegantmaindining what goes You wantaveal fillet?Fine,nowyouchoose chef Freixa offersRamón ‘interactive’ cooking. Sat) 2;meals€50-60; Recoletos for €25.Bookingsare onweekends. essential menu Thailand. Atlunchtime ithasagoodset that theingredients are from flowninweekly faultless andtheysay is exquisite, theservice of Spain’scelebritiesandwell-to-do. Thefood form outthedooratlunchtime. and thepriceincludesadrink.Queues often andpizzaareof soups,pasta salads, onoffer, all-you-can eatantidote. Anextensive buffet Frescsalad, Coisafresh, well-pricedand menu orare indire of need ado-it-yourself just can’tfacedecipheringanotherSpanish Sagasta 30;meals€7.95-9.70; changed days. littlesincethose Comercialisthe lasttoremainCafé andhas 1960s acentre of intellectualism. coffee-house deBilbaowerethe Glorieta inthe1950sand lectual cafésof Paris’ thecafésof Bank, Left waiters. As asMadrid close cametotheintel- abundant marbleandold-style leather seats, rearguard actionagainstprogress withheavy in Chueca, Calle de la Libertad. delaLibertad. in Chueca,Calle deManuela out–Calle stand Malasaña and, ish surroundings.There are twostreets that inlively andstyl- Spanish cuisineisserved Fresc Co Fresc Paradis Efe Erre La Taberna deSanBernardo Housed in the Casa deAméricainPalacio intheCasa Housed h Mp pp118-19; (Map 8am-1am Sun-Thu, 8am-2amFri-Sat) Mp pp118-19; (Map (Map p125; (Map h lunch & dinner Mon-Fri & dinner &dinner lunch &dinnerMon-Fri h % % berenjenas conmile % 12.30pm-1am)

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Calle de la Libertad 8;meals€25; Calle delaLibertad Infantas 44;meals€25; hip, young crowd, La Musa hasdesigner Musa hip, youngcrowd,La & 7pm-midnight) 18;mains€6-12,menú€8-11,tapas€4; Malasaña La Musa MIDRANGE lonelyplanet.com Basque codin a garlicsauce). Basque to from ter isabitof anational smorgasbord, ranging Madrid’s literati foradrinkormeal.The lat- afavouritesince 1888andhaslongbeen with coffee andmeals serving ful oldcaféhasbeen 21;meals€30; de losRecoletos booking onweekends isessential. Nina canbeahardplacetoget and a table Popular withasophisticated localcrowd, plancha (grilledfoiegras)isrich anddivine. menus are available) andthe cooking issimilarlycool(English-language andastylish diningarea.great The service ite restaurants inMadrid food, withfantastic 10;meals€25-30) Malasaña at lunchtimes. chirpy, inner-urban crowdwhofilltheplace grand windows.Thehipambienceattractsa dangling lampshades, bordellomirrors and New York,withitsblood-red décor,conical Sydneyor and youcouldbeinBarcelona, soget herecan’t make areservation early. tastes andmixed meat andfish menu.You a casualyoungcrowdwhocomeforthefresh isinvariablypacked Bazaar with leather seats, grand windows,theatre andcomfy lighting leged cornerlocation,withhardwoodfloors, 21;menú€7,meals€20-25) Libertad ambient buzzof Malasaña atitsbest. name onthewaitinglistandsoakup sosidleuptothebar,putyour reservations are funandfilledwithflavour. take Itdoesn’t with strawberryjamandgreat meatdishes long inthememory.Thefriedgreen tomatoes décor, lounge musicandfoodthatwilllive menú deldíaisoneof Madrid’s bestbargains. andartscrowds.The among thegay,straight loyalfollowing and itstillhasitsdeservedly totake Chuecadiningtoanewlevel, taurants inventive cuisine. Thiswasoneof thefirst res- mains aChuecabeaconof reasonably priced, Bazaar Gran Café deGijón Gran Café Momo Restaurante Wokcafé Nina bacalao al pil cabrito asadoalasegoviana (Map (Map pp118-19 ; (Map (Map pp118-19 ; Mp pp118-19; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map A localfavourite of Malasaña’s MADRID ••Eating h Mp p120; (Map (Map pp118-19 ; % % This isoneof ourfavour- closed Sun) (thetypically steamed 91 591 00 46; Calle de Manuela 91 5910046;CalledeManuela % h % 91 448 75 58; Calle de Manuela 91 4487558;CalledeManuela h 91 5233905;Calledela 7am-2am) 91 4229069;Calledelas Occupyingaprivi- Mon-Sat) % Step insidehere foie fresco ala 91 5215425;Paseo % This grace- (roast kid) Momo re- h 91 532 73 48; 91 5327348; 9am-5pm be believed. Partbe believed. of anewcrazeinconcept- wins ourvote forMadrid’s bestvegetarian Calle de Manuela Malasaña 3;meals€30; Malasaña Calle deManuela out forreasonably pricedAsian foodbutina thing togoby, dining room isminimalist white. goingoverboard,without necessarily andthe Madrid. He mixes hisingredients carefully, hotel restaurant inthebusyuptownarea of Ferran Adrià,hasmadehis ownsplash inthis acolyte ofyoung Catalan the world-renowned Ángel29;meals€80) .com; CalledeMiguel La Broche TOP END too spicy. vegetarian options,butdon’t expectanything is wok-cooked andthere are ahandfulof in Madrid canmuster. Justabout everything restaurants thanmostChinese classier setting meals €15-20) (roast chicken) andabottleof cider. that there’s nofinerplacetoorder mostof madrileño, about every whomagree Asturian thatisknownbyjust ciderhouse Mingoisarambling Casa Pío trainstation, 1916 tofeed theworkers buildingthePríncipe 34;meals€10-15; la Florida Mingo Casa MIDRANGE there’s usuallynotanothertouristinsight. güelles are fastbecomingMadrid’s coolest,and The residential barriosof ChamberíandAr- Chamberí &Argüelles dining experienceunlike anyother. fans. It’salltherage atthemomentandisa bytoga-cladwaiters withhuge feather served Roman-style whilereclining onbedsandare white of andcompletely devoid –youeat tables RestClubiswhiter-than-dining, Laydown Sat &Sun,2-4pmMon) €30; 37; www.laydown.esinSpanish;PlazadeMostenses9;meals A great choice inagreat barrio. waiters have someEnglish-language menus. fresh andalwayssurprising,thefriendly thetoneforcookingthat’s assortments) sets of(salad dates, goat’scheese, honeyand other inventive asthefood.The restaurant. Thedécorisfunky,intimate andas The Wok The Club Laydown Rest La IsladelTesoro h 2-4pm & 9.30pm-2.30am Tue-Fri, 9.30pm-2.30am 9.30pm-2.30am 2-4pm &9.30pm-2.30amTue-Fri, Mp p113; (Map Mp p120; (Map Ifthecrowdsandqueuesare any- Mp pp114-15; (Map havemadrileños crying been This place has to be seen to to This placehastobeseen % Mp pp118-19; (Map %

Mp pp118-19; (Map h 91 3191862;CalledeGénova27; 91 3993437;www.labroche % 11am-midnight) ensalada boskimana 91 5477918;Paseo de v % Sergi Arola,a Sergi ) % pollo asado 91 5931440; This place 91 54879 Built in 153

MADRID MADRID MADRID 10pm Mon-Sat) Baena 4;meals€70-100; sense, you’ll havesense, taken asiesta. Nowit’stime meal and,ifyou havean outstanding any thegreatYou’ve seen paintings,have eaten DRINKING de Preciados 3&elsewhere throughoutthecity; pp122-3; (Map fooddepartmentsofbasement thecity. throughout isdelicious.Thereand desserts, are branches thing here, fromgourmetmainstosnacks head tothisMadrid institution.Every- rano 6; great of placetotake thepulse ‘real’ Madrid. Another easy-to-reach fresh market, thisisa 76; PlazadelaCebada; and picnics. spot tostockuponingredients forsandwiches Madrid’s mostcentralfresh market, thisisthe Miguel; are theold-stylefresh producemarkets. Madrid, butthemostromanticplacestoshop You’ll findsupermarkets allacrosscentral Self-Catering chef’s showpiece dish isexquisiteand abroad.Each –trythe from discerningfoodlovers fromacrossSpain inspired décorandfoodthatwinsplaudits Madrid’s bestrestaurants with luxuryAsian- 110) rantesantceloni.com; Paseo delaCastellana57;meals€90- dresscertainly toimpress. (an estimated 35,000bottles)andyoushould is purported tobeoneof thebestincity since thedoors openedin1973.Thewinelist in Madrid, fromthekingdown,haseaten here traditional cooking.Everyone who’sanyone ficiency about thisclassyhomeof thebestin Sat Sep-Jul) Zalacaín TOP END and are happytopayforatouch of class. clienteleness andwell-heeled knowtheirfood visit anyeatery inNorthernMadrid. Thebusi- thestateof Spain’seconomy, If youwanttosee Madrid Northern 154 For agourmettouch, youcouldalsotrythe Mallorca delaCebada Mercado deSanMiguel Mercado Santceloni TheMichelin-starred Santceloniisoneof h h MADRID •• Drinking MADRID ••Drinking Mp p113; (Map Thereandquietef- isaseamless 9am-2.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2.30pmSat) 9am-2.30pm &5-8pmMon-Fri, 9.30am-9pm) Mp p120; (Map % . Mp p113; (Map 91 418 88 00; www.elcorteingles.es; Calle 91 4188800;www.elcorteingles.es; h % menú gastronómico h For fine takeaway food, Forfinetakeaway 8am-2pm &5.15-8.15pmMon-Fri) 91 5614840;CalledeÁlvarez de % % lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner lunch &dinnerMon-Fri, Mp pp122-3; (Map 91 5771859;CalledeSer- (Map (Map pp122-3 ; PlazadeSan 91 2108840;www.restau El Corte Inglés El Corte % h (€110). 91 365 10am-

04; CalledelNuncio17; It’s openuntil7am! and somefreshly fried ofan eye-openingdose syrupyhotchocolate at thisclassiccaféleastonce;thespecialityis 65 46;Pasadizo SanGinés5) prices dropandthefewer touristsyou’llsee. further youstrayfromPlazaMayor, themore Madrid’s centre and,asageneral rule,the Old taverns andtheoddhiddengem populate Sol&Centro Los Austrias, to theoutdoorcafésincity’ssquares. phere of Insummer,head night every theweek. friendly, no-frills bars thatguaranteeatmos- has Latina a grungy,funkycrowd,whileLa holes, Chuecaistheplace. Malasaña caters to barrio of Forgay-friendly Huertas. drinking tiled wallsandflamencotunes,headtothe 100inhabitants. fact, forevery more bars thananycityintheworld,six, time, there Madrid isonesimplestatistic: has likemadrileños togooutandhave a good namic nightlife. Toget anideaof howmuch for yourinitiationintoEurope’smostdy- enough forManhattanenough andgenuinely cool bar(theBlackWidow)isminimalist cocktail 6) best-known winebars intown. have madeitoneof the and friendlyservice the glassorbyth tious winebaristheperfect placetoorderby Thisall-dressed-in-orange, loungelike La Viuda Negra La Viuda If you’re after themore traditional,with Taberna deCienVinos deSanGinés Chocolatería Rastro andPlaza Mayor). Rastro are alongCalle delaCava Baja(betweenEl culture. Some ofthebestbarsforvermouth tradition isdeeply engrained in thisSunday market, in andaroundElRastro many ofthetraditionalvermouth barsare de Rastro Sunday lunch.Sometimesreferred toas lies headoutforaquickapéritifbefore ( vermouth hour),whenfriendsandfami- becauseit’slahorais packed delvermut at suchanhour,butinMadridtheplace civilised citythebarwouldbeshuttight dark baroffCalle delaCava Baja. Inany Sunday. Oneo’clockintheafternoon. A LA HORADELVERMUT (going to the Rastro), because so (goingtotheRastro), ( % h e bottle. The classicdécor Youhave toendthenight 91 5487529;CalledeCampomanes closed Mon) Mp pp122-3; (Map churros fordipping.

Mp pp122-3; (Map Thisunpreten- lonelyplanet.com madrileño % % 91 36547 91 365 ir come here forthe finewinesandmanzanilla especially onweekends whenlocals nights, room only most butit’sstanding the tapas ( p150 over), thenease tothebarforfunky sister ViudaBlanca,nextdoor restaurant, La youcanfirst inforthenight, eatatthe settle the newMadrid. Ifyou’re thesortthatlikes to thesophisticated tosatisfy crowdofenough lonelyplanet.com del Almendro13) for years. El Viajero isalwaysbuzzingandhasbeen pared towait.Butwaityoushould because impossible toget unlessyou’re atable pre- the patienceof –it’sbusyandnear-on asaint Cebada 11; irresistible. (and plentyof residents) longstanding find sort of clamourthatnewcomers toMadrid summer weekends, thisplace humswiththe in summer,enjoytheoutdoorterraza. On of insideor,better cosylevels still several deSegovia. Youcandrinkononeto Calle passage downastairway Nuncio straggles 9) Calle deSegovia want aspotatthebar. aroundyouif tothose upclose snuggle prepared onwards.Be from earlyevening to popular withyoungprofessional barthat’s head forBonanno,astylishcocktail early. Ifyou’re fromthisaffliction, suffering too theystart is about,butthat’sbecause der whatallthefusssurroundingitsnightlife Humilladero 4) could beyourthing. Lavapiés butwithnaryatouristinsight, night nity. Ifyou’re after anunmistakeably Madrid ofa barriowithvery commu- strongsense of fishaltogether –working-class,quirkyand isadifferent deSegovia. Lavapiés kettleCalle PlazadelaPajaBaja, PlazadelaCebada, and delaCava the area framedbyCalle roughly bonhomie central.Thepickof thebars are in streets into medieval slopes, turningotherwise anddownthe spill fromthebars Latina of La afternoons), crowdsof happymadrileños (andmanySunday summer weekend nights Two barrios,twovery different vibes.On La Latina&Lavapiés jazzy andvery mellow. musicuntillate.house Sundayafternoons are Almendro 13 delNuncio Café Bonanno El Viajero h Newcomers toMadrid often won- closed Mon) Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Youcouldeasily come here for A sprawling bar, the Café del Asprawlingbar,theCafé Mp pp122-3; (Map MADRID ••Drinking

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Echegarary 7) satisfy most tastes, while the vodka cocktails mosttastes, while thevodkacocktails satisfy more than80varieties of vodka are to enough restaurant Wethinkthe outthebackcloses. comes intoitsown after the Scandinavian bar isatemple toNordic minimalism and 15; (sherry)andyourfriends. your fino music, noflashydecorations;it’sallabout you, with fineJeréz sherry for just€1.35.There’s no Venenciawooden barrels. La isabarrioclassic, old-world anddrinkspoured fromthe straight . ary madrileño halfway towardsbeingconsidered anhonor- but comehere onSundayat1pmandyou’re are Thetapas ontap. good isserved stuff mouth fromthiselegantbar,where thehard 1827 18; CalledelasHuertas .casaalberto.es; tied waiters have changed sincehisday. and neitherthewood-linedbarnorbow- Thiswasoneofa fight. Hemingway’s haunts, andyouwon’tbegivingitupwithout evening outsideinthesquarea table onasummer’s cold, frothybeers. It’sfineinside,butsnaffle it bethisclassic Ana,let time tostopatonebaronPlazaSanta Plaza deSantaAna6; phere withadrinkinhand. pressed tofindaplacerevel intheatmos- bars andyouwon’tbehard- andnightspots, delSolisatreasure-chestPuerta of lively The mazeof streets andthe aroundHuertas &Atocha Huertas and discerningMadrid crowd. (dry sherry),andtheconvivialbuzzof ahappy Ølsen La Venencia Alberto Casa Alemana Cervecería La Inquilina AUTHOR’S CHOICE out the back. out theback. atableeither gatheraroundthebarortake adornthewallsandyoucan local artists barrio. bybudding Contemporary artworks thepulseofthisincreasingly cooltaking barthat’sideal for Inquilina isawonderful more charmofLavapiés,La often earthy ofthesometimessophisticated,ral part Calle delAve 39; María h havemadrileños getting been theirver- closed Mon) Mp pp122-3 ; (Map Thisishowsherry bars shouldbe– Mp pp122-3; (Map

Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Thisclassyandclean-lined h renowned forits cervecería, closed Aug) % h Mp pp122-3; (Map 91 4293659;CalledelPrado closed Mon) % % Ifyou’ve onlygot h % 91 429 73 13; Calle de 91 4297313;Callede 91 4299356;www closed Mon) 627 511804; % Aninteg- 91 4297033; Since

155 MADRID MADRID MADRID 7) Fernandez CalledeManuel yGonzález .barvivamadrid.com; think. the crowd(ifnotties)more thanyou’d upexcellent winesandotherdrinksloosen you’re inanArmanisuit;atothertimes,the bother cominghere after work’soutunless tobeaprerequisiteseems forentry.Don’t this chic wine bar,where wearinghairgel Velázquez 57) of Salamancacanmuster. withamoremidnight mixed crowdthanmost it),butitgets noisyafterpanelling thatdoes feels like anIrish barbyday(it’sthewood Club from aroundtheworld,Geographic windows, woodenAfricanmasksandphotos Calle deAlcalá141) other halflives. howthe you’llsee clothes. Ifnothingelse, Real Madrid players, celebritiesanddesigner the her andhairgel forhim.As youglidethrough for and it’sallabout glossandglamour–heels Salamanca isthelandof thebeautifulpeople, Salamanca late-night scene. apparently, andit’sfamousontheHuertas more couldamadrileño mixed crowdandscattered –what tables mojitos intown,afriendlyatmosphere, a for thenight. the nextday,butMadrid isallabout living (€7 to€9)are alsogreat. You’llhate vodka 156 Abeautifullytiledbar,someof thebest of Madrid’s best-kept secrets. into itshedonisticown after dark,while (Map pp122–3 ) isalsosupremely civilised.Further afield, is asbusythenearby PlazadelaPaja (Map pp122–3 ) isquietandinviting. Plaza deSantaAna(Map pp122–3 ) operate towards SierradeGuadarrama. terrazas ofLasVistillas (Map pp114–15 ), justacrossCalle deBailén,withtheirfineviewsout Argüelles, especiallythoseon where tables runupanddownthesidewalks. Even more pleasant are the are along best placestostart Joining thechattering, carousingcrowdsisoneofMadrid’sgreat pleasures andsomeofthe summer whentheeveningFrom ApriltoOctober, temperatures inMadridare balmyandrainisrare, DRINKING UNDERTHESTARS –THEPICKOFTERRAZAS Geographic Club Geographic El Lateral Madrid Viva pijos Madrid’s squares also make perfect locationsforoutdoordrinking. MostofthebarsonMadrid’sMadrid’s squares perfect alsomake MADRID •• Drinking MADRID ••Drinking (posh), keep your eyes peeled for(posh), keep youreyespeeled It doesn’t get muchIt doesn’t more pijothan terrazas (terraces, ortablessetupoutdoors)spilloutontothestreets allover town. Mp p120; (Map Withitselaborate stained-glass Mp pp122-3; (Map

Mp pp114-15; (Map % 91 4350604;Callede % want? Notmuch 91 4293640;www Paseo delaCastellana andPaseo delosRecoletos (Map p120 ), Paseo delPintor Rosales % 91 5780862; Plaza deOlavide(Map pp118–19 ) inChamberí,is one terrazas, whileelegant Plaza Mayor (Map pp122–3 ) lout.com in Spanish; Calle de Hortaleza 92) lout.com inSpanish;CalledeHortaleza and low-key allatonce. andelectronica.jazz, bossa It’scool,funky nu andchillof withdeep house, theweek) Sunday toWednesday,andfrom9pmtherest whengroovynight DJstake over (from11pm snog quietly),thisplaceisequallyenjoyable by corners where or youcanhearyourselftalk music abound andthere are darkandsecluded lounge barbyday(cushions andchill-out barrio. popular andenduringdrinkingholesinthe place charm that’smadeitoneof themost ing thewalls.Thefadedelegancegives the oldphotosandmirrorstopped tables, cover- classy barwithgreen velvet benches, marble- small hours asitisintheafternoon, thisisa 09; CalledeSanAndrés12) community. home barrioof thecity’sconsiderable gay to theblack-clad,trendy andstylish, the forever. Chueca,ontheotherhand,caters tolast thatseem during clamorousnights which meansarebelliousmadrileña, spirit rock-heavything-goes, daysof lamovida whowouldrelivehome tothose theany- apart inpersonality. Malasaña is bynight tic andliveliest, theyare although worlds Chueca are twoof Madrid’s mosteclec- The inner-city barriosof Malasaña and &Chueca Malasaña remains aMalasaña favourite foramixed, what grungyrelic of de Velarde 18) Pepe Botella Café La VíaLáctea Areia Plaza deChueca(Map pp118–19 ) comes (Map pp114–15 south,the ), or,further Mp pp118-19; (Map A living,breathing andsome- Mp pp118-19; (Map % (Map pp118-19 ; pp118-19; (Map La VíaLactea La la movida, terrazas thatsetupin As goodinthewee 91 3100307;www.areiachil Plaza deOriente % lonelyplanet.com 91 4467581;Calle The ultimate % 91 52243

lonelyplanet.com mer’s evening. popular drinking areoutdoor tables someof Madrid’s most another era. Whatchanges allthatisthe mirrors, chandeliers anddiscreet charm of you couldbealittleoverwhelmed byallthe Once ahauntof writers andintellectuals, 308 2347;Paseo 31; delosRecoletos sional crowd. with areal buzzamong theyoungprofes- abeat– candlelit, cosyandintimate,misses buttheatmospherea summer’sevening never of Madrid’s best-kept secrets. It’satitsbeston hip café-styleambienceinabarriothatisone to drinkinMadrid, Garden’hasa ‘TheSecret &Sat) 6.30pm-2.30am Fri Calle deCondeDuque2; inMadrid.sangria least oneLonelyPlanetauthorforthebest packed withpeopleandwinsthevote of at this terrific old 11) Hortaleza ofheight casualsophistication. something) andalow-key crowdthat’sthe as you’llfindinMadrid andthat’ssaying great range of drinks(the lounge andchill-outa music,dimlighting, Belén 5) on weekends. longqueuestoget Expect in anything goes. from andbyearlyonSundaymorningchoose recurring theme. There are plentyof drinksto 1980s –eyeshadow forboysandgirlsisa tolive fortheinformal crowdwhoseem Café-Restaurante ElEspejo Café-Restaurante El JardinSecreto Stop Madrid Belén Café best DJsdotheirstuff. benchesandsomeofthecity’sthe curved atmosphere over, takes couplescuddleon it’s atitsbestafter midnightwhenalounge frequented byfilmstarsandsocialites, and enjoyed atonetimeoranother. It’sstill way, SophiaLoren andFrankSinatraall dred ofHeming- cocktails,whichthelikes is saidtohave invented more thanahun- Museo Chicote Museo AUTHOR’S CHOICE Sun) GranVía12; www.museo-chicote.com; Café Belén is cool in all the right places– iscoolinalltheright Belén Café The founderofthisMadridlandmark Thenamemaybeincongruous,but Mp pp118-19; (Map Mp pp118-19; (Map taberna isfriendly,invariably MADRID ••Entertainment

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h 91 53131;www.eol.es/lgalicia/;PlazadelCarmen1; www.telentrada.com) stamped ticketsstamped lying inbars abouttown. are possibleifyou keep youreyes openforthe places charge afew eurosmore. Discounts megaclubsandswanky is €8to€12,though the numberof peopleinside. Thecover charge time youenter, thewayyou’re dressed and 3am whenthebars elsewhere have closed. bataneyelashuntil 1am, andsomewon’teven or Chueca orMalasaña. Don’texpectdanceclubs For intimate dancingorquirkydécor,headto spots are GranVíaandPlazaMayor. between club ordisco,butthemostpopulardance There’s nobarrioinMadrid withoutadecent Clubs Localidades Galicia FNAC Inglés El Corte Tel-Entrada Catalunya’s Caixa vendors includingthefollowing: cert tickets (entradas) atbox officesoratticket offerings.the week’s zine Friday pickupElMundo’ssupplementmaga- On matches, andspecialevents. bullfights daily listingsof films,concerts,football and dointown. and haslotsof informationabout whattosee cinemas, IrishpubsandEnglish bookshops given outfree atsomehotels, original-version cation celona. ThemonthlyEnglishexpatpubli- costs €1.80andcovers bothMadrid andBar- Urban (www.salirsalir.com). It’sinSpanish, forthecity’stheatresdetails andstages. website (www.munimadrid.com)haspractical etro.com), withinfoinSpanish.Thetownhall’s the comprehensive able for€1fromnewskiosks.Alsohelpfulis magazineavail-.com), aSpanish-only weekly bet istheGuíadelOcio(www.guiadelocio theatres, cinemasandconcerthalls,yourbest To findoutthecurrent showings atMadrid’s ENTERTAINMENT the ‘Todos Los Espectáculos’ section ofthewebsite. section the ‘TodosLosEspectáculos’ Mon-Sat) throughoutcity; .elcorteingles.es; You canbuycinema,theatre, operaorcon- Club pricesvarywildly,depending onthe The localpress isalwaysagoodbet,with Also keep aneyeoutforthemonthlySalir discotecas toreally get goinguntil atleast 9.30am-1pm &4.30-7pmTue-Sat) ( Metropoli foradditionalinformationon % In Madrid (www.in-madrid.com)is 91 5956200;www.fnac.es inSpanish)Clickon ( % (Map (Map pp122–3 ; 91 3798000,902400222;www La Netro (http://madrid.la h ( % 10am-10pm % 902 101212; 91 5312732,

157 MADRID MADRID MADRID this isthekindof placewhere thecrowdcan of themostpopulardanceclubsinMadrid, sexy, well-heeled andupforagood time. well-heeled On sexy, andhip-hop. Thecrowdis to karaoke, salsa bars fromcocktail everyone, anddancemusic is oneof Madrid’s withsomethingfor biggies h Kapital HUERTAS &ATOCHA really foot. get offontheright yournight Lupewill openlater,Other placesstay butLa tomakeyou’ll struggle yourwaytothebar. and impromptudancefloors sopacked that ing. It’smostlythelatest dancetuneswithcosy years, andthere’s nosignof itspopularity abat- coming tothisfunandfunkydancespotfor del Leal 12) La Lupe LA LATINA &LAVAPIÉS long. all week Monday toThursday keeps theplacepacked American population.Live Cubanmusicfrom very popularwithMadrid’s SouthandCentral music,andit’s the topplaceintownforLatin looknofurtherthanElSon.Thisis tangos, 6) the occasional and even long andinvariably includelocalsandtourists and thecrowdare amixed bag,butqueuesare single dayforthepast25years.) Themusic open. (Theclubclaimstohave openedevery theatre) are acrowdandthefactthatitwillbe ina19th-century drid danceclub(housed only thingsguaranteedatthisgrandoldMa- inSpanish;CalledelArenal 11) www.joy-eslava.com tions have somuch been fun. never –international musicnight rela-and house are long.Thursday isinternational student be pretty youngandboisterous andthequeues Arenal 9) gay menandmodel-like women. crowdincludesalotof heeled sleek-looking predictably well- strictentrypolicy.Thesexy, gorgeous people,gorgeous clothesandhasa ners dancefloorispeopledby andpulsating white lines,discreet lounge chairs indarkcor- One of thehottest clubsinthecity,itscurvy Católica 6) Cool LOS AUSTRIAS, SOL&CENTRO 158 Ifyou’re merengue after salsa, orsomesexy Teatro JoyEslava Palacio Gaviria El Son Thu-Sun) Mp pp118-19; (Map MADRID •• Entertainment MADRID ••Entertainment Anelegantpalaceconverted intoone Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp p125; (Map Coolbynameandcoolnature. Mp pp122-3; (Map

Madrileños in-the-knowhave been Thismassive seven-storey nightclub Mp pp122-3; (Map % % % Mp pp122-3; (Map % 91 4202906;CalledeAtocha125; 902 499994;CalledeIsabella 91 527 50 19; Calle de la Torrecilla 91 5275019;CalledelaTorrecilla 91 532 32 83; Calle de la Victoria 91 5323283;CalledelaVictoria famoso (celebrity). % 91 5266069;Calledel % 91 3663733; The de laPalma 62) de Arlabán7; de Canalejas3) chilled bar. Sincethere’s nocover charge, this itbecomesa atnight orsnacks,though tapas floor filled.Theupstairs barisopenalldayfor the RealMadrid set. younger belongmore crowd,whilenights to on Monday.Theafternoon are sessions fora intention of appearingatworkoruniversity Love’)pital whohave isdefinitely forthose no knownas‘Ka-Sunday, ‘Sundance’(otherwise www.eljunco.com inSpanish; PlazadeSantaBárbara 10) ent, soexpecttobe surprised. the floorandall.Every isalittlediffer- night others looklike anArab tea room, pillowson front. Someroomshave acaféstyle,while are heldattheback,whileDJsmixup rooms. Live shows,featuring hotlocalbands, Palma La haspackedCafé intoitslabyrinth of intheboxednightclubs text on p143 . There’s more informationaboutChueca’s MALASAÑA &CHUECA vibrant, headyplace. you cross-eyedifweren’t already inthis leaving untildawn.Thegreat visualswillleave is agreat thenight. placetostart room and those insidehaveroom andthose nointention of arriving after 3am–there simplywon’tbe of Madrid’s thinkabout best,sodon’teven way tokeep thecrowdhappyanddance- funkandsoulbutalwaysfinda hop, house, will get yougroovin’. hip- DJsrollthrough thatthemusic,whatever thestyle, promise Ducados Café El JuncoJazz Club LaPalma Café Room atStella El Juglar AUTHOR’S CHOICE de Lavapiés37) agreeable. netic Madridnightspots,butnonemore get everyone dancing. There are more fre- after-midnight Latintunesare funkyand of every month.It’sbusyallnight,butthe every SundayandonthefirstWednesday some fierynodstoflamencoat10pm down-tempo jazzandsoulbeats,with caters foralargely bohemiancrowdwith Lavapiés atthemoment,thisgreat bar h Ifthere’s here, aconstant it’sthe It’samazinghowmuch variety Mp pp122-3; (Map Thu-Sat) Oneofthehottest spotsin Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp118-19 ; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp118-19; (Map DJÁngel Garcíaisone % % 91 5284381;Calle % % lonelyplanet.com 91 3600089;Plaza 91 5316378;Calle 91 5225031;Calle % 91 3192081; de Hortaleza 96) de Hortaleza seen inChueca. seen the punters do. Trulyoneof love thecosy,lounge feel almostasmuch as beats fromsomeof thebestlocalDJswho ing withitslounge, house nujazzanddeep Stromboli manages hipandhappen- tostay here andyoucouldbeforgiven forbelieving classic andvanguardfilmsatthiscinema. Santa Isabel3)TheNationalFilm Libraryoffers fantastic beats. Theemphasisisonblackmusicandthe spinning funk,nujazzandinnovative groove livethe nightly jazzconcerts,followedbyDJs somanyMadrid clubswilllovethat pervades owlswhoareNight tired of music thehouse lonelyplanet.com Cine Doré Cinemas keeps thetuneshopping. Thursday DJ toSaturday,whenthehouse of turningupbefore especiallyfrom midnight, music youlove tohate, think butdon’teven mal placewhere youcangroove tothe’80s that .elpenta.com inSpanish;CalledelaPalma 4) crowd isclassy andcasual. Penta Bar Stromboli Café Nothing wastabooasyoung especially drid’s Anyone whowentwildwhentheyfirstmoved outoftheir parents’ housecanidentifywithMa- LA MOVIDA MADRILEÑA eyes glaze over withnostalgia. Futura Los Rebeldes, Radio playinganythingbyAlaska, or NachaPopandwatch Start names fromlamovida thatstillresonate, the designerAgatha RuizdelaPrada( p163 ) standsout. insmokybars.immersed himselfin thespiritoflamovida,doingdragacts Amongtheother characters films,Almodóvar whopushed thelimitsofsexanddrugs. Whenhewasn’t making filmscaptured thespiritof directors, hisriotouslycolourful designers andfilm-makers. to drink).Itwasalsoaccompaniedby an explosionofcreativity amongthecountry’smusicians, out forhisfuneral. was Madrid’smostpopularmayorever andwhenhedied in1986,amillion ponerse alloro’,whichlooselytranslates as‘getstonedanddowhat’scool’.Notsurprisingly, he mayor in1979and,formany,launched and wasaffectionately knownthroughoutSpainas‘theoldteacher’. ASocialist,hebecame an ageingformeruniversity professor whohadbeenaleadingoppositionfigure underFranco legalised andthecityhowled. wasthenorm,cannabisvirtually All-nightpartying ing, drugsandsexsuddenlywere OK. never died down.It’saninfor- never la movida The mostfamousofthesewasfilmdirector Pedro Almodóvar. StilloneofEurope’s mostcreative But lamovidawasnotjustaboutrediscovering ofsalirdecopas(goingout theSpanishart about What wasremarkable . After the long, dark years of dictatorship and conservative Catholicism,movida. After Spaniards, andconservative thelong,darkyearsofdictatorship Mp pp122-3; (Map Oneof Chueca’sbestcafé-clubs, madrileños, emerged ontothestreets withallthezeal ofanex-convent schoolgirl. Mp pp118-19; (Map MADRID ••Entertainment Mp pp118-19; (Map % 91 3691125;Callede % % 91 4478460;www the madrileños discovered the60s,70sand early 80sallatonce. Drink- 91 3194628;Calle la movidaisthatitwaspresided over by EnriqueTierno Galván, placestobe A night out Anight la movidabytelling apublicgathering‘Acolocarse y this dynamiccompanyperformsworldwide Mayor and offers a wide selection offilms. andoffers awideselection Mayor 6)ClosetoPlaza Cortezo 18, 902220922;CalledelDoctor made upmostlyof international dancers, vellous technicality andstyle. Thecompany, and haswonaccoladesforitsinnovation, mar- cndanza.mcu.es/) around €10andrunupto€50. musical theatre. Tickets at forallshowsstart Spain’s ownsinginganddancingversion of language maystillenjoymusicalsor are whodon’tspeakthe inSpanish, butthose but itreally gets goinginautumn.Mostshows Madrid’s theatre sceneisayear-round affair, &Dance Theatre Yelmo CineplexIdeal Renoir Princesa mated films,internationalflicksandoldies. ani- alternativetheatre, showingdocumentaries, arty, 8)There’s nobeatingthisgreat Travesía deSanMateo La EnanaMarrón Hollywood blockbusters to arty flicks. Hollywood blockbusterstoarty versionfilms,from oforiginal 3)Screens allkinds Princesa some interesting documentaries andAsianflicks.some interesting documentaries de losHeros12)Plentyoflatest-release films,aswell Compañía NacionaldeDanza Mp pp118-19; (Map (Map (Map pp118-19 ; la movida,featuring larger-than-life Underdirector Nacho Duato, (Map (Map pp118-19 ; Mp pp122-3; (Map % % 91 541 41 00; Calle de Martín 91 5414100;CalledeMartín 91 5414100;Calle madrileños turned

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MADRID MADRID MADRID de laPaz 11) everything fromclassicalmusicconcertsto everything at PlazadeColón,thisculturalcentre stages balletnacional.mcu.es/) h .casapatas.com; CalledeCañizares 10;admissionabout€30; the sweatdrippingoffdancers. tothestage tosee enough ably besittingclose andyou’llprob- (dancing, singingandguitar) allthree elementsofprices), you’llsee theart they’rethough pricey(around€25,plusmeal restaurants andare geared towardtourists.Al- tablaos, smalltheatres thatusuallydoubleas The mostaccessibleflamencoshows are in flamenco’s topdancers, andsingers. guitarists aplatformforsomeofthe cityhaslongbeen of artformsgainedabroaderfollowingand scene, butitwashere thatthismostSpanish attheMadridlook downtheirnoses flamenco Flamenco aficionadosfromAndalucíamay FLAMENCO Music Live to catch mainstream Spanishdrama. 16th centuryandisstilloneof thebestplaces Príncipe 25) performances. comic theatre, operaandqualityflamenco 60 80;PlazadeColón) national dancescene. is considered aleadingplayerontheinter- performs original,contemporary piecesand 160 zarzuela. tional Spanish styles,such asflamencoand known foritsuniquemixof balletandtradi- known theatres. guard drama,thisisoneof Madrid’s better- Teatro Español delaVilla Cultural Centro Casa Patas Casa Ballet NacionaldeEspaña Teatro Albéniz 10.30pm Wed) Cardamomo AUTHOR’S CHOICE ray 15;admissionfree; www.cardamomo.net inSpanish;Callede Echega- mind), Cardamomo isbrilliant. willalong (thecrowd is sothickno-one you canclap,shout ‘ the crowdispredominantly local andwhere is bestenjoyedinadark,smokybarwhere noon-5pm &8pm-3am,shows10.30pmMon-Thu, 9pm& MADRID •• Entertainment MADRID ••Entertainment Thistheatre here hasbeen sincethe Staging bothcommercialandvan- Staging Mp pp122-3; (Map Ifyoubelieve thatflamenco

Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3 ; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Located underthewaterfall Aclassical companythat’s h Olé!’ andeven sing 9pm-4am; liveshows % ( % % Mp p120; (Map % % 91 3690496;www 91 3601480;Calledel 91 5174686;http:// 91 5318311;Calle 91 3690757; % 91 575 midnight Fri &Sat) midnight Fri España 9;admission€6-20; singing andsoul-baring dancing. classic flamencoshow, withplentyof throaty quality flamenco. a you’llsee Mostnights Tablas hasquicklyearnedareputation for aredance. Classes alsoheldhere. a soul-filling of session passionate musicand it’s geared towardtourists,localsstopbyfor place foranintroductiontotheart.Although in Madrid, thisrestaurant and seats, don’t expectchangeseats, from€100. quality is consistent Forthebest throughout. atelescope,thesoundwill need although pay aslittle€15 foraspotsofarawayyou stage for elaborate operasandballets. You’ll venue inEuropeandis thecity’sgrandest Real isastechnologically advancedasany inSpanish;PlazadeOriente) .teatro-real.com and dance. zarzuela, This 1856theatre isthepremier placetosee CalledeJovellanos4) 00; www.teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es; ductors fromallover theworld. Sinfonía(www.osm.es)ledbycon- Orquesta calendar of classicalmusic,often byMadrid’s sical music,thismodernvenue offers avaried Vergara 146) CalledelPríncipede 01 00;www.auditorionacional.mcu.es; NacionaldeMúsica Auditorio CLASSICAL MUSIC&OPERA Teatro Real Las Tablas Teatro delaZarzuela zuela ( below ). catch ashowisattheTeatro delaZar- local culture. Oneofthebestplacesto a full oflocalreferences seeing and jokes), ing thestoryline(zarzuelas are notoriously haveAlthough you’lllikely troublefollow- remains thegenre’s undoubted capital. quickly becamepopularinMadrid,which on everyday people’sproblems, bination ofmusicanddance,afocus theatre styles. Withalight-hearted com- has becomeoneofSpain’smostunique Felipeway toamuseKing IVandhiscourt What beganinthelate 17thcenturyasa LA ZARZUELA zarzuela gives lookinto anentertaining a very Spanish mixof theatre, music Resoundingtothesoundsof clas-

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.cafeCentro&Huertas.com inSpanish;PlazadelAngel10;admis- .cafeCentro&Huertas.com venues. Madrid hasahandfulof world-class jazz JAZZ lonelyplanet.com la VirgendelPuerto) up-and-coming bands. itsstrengthto magicshows, though remains known tostagefromcomedyacts everything sic, thisclubinnorthernMadrid hasbeen 100) .salagalileogalilei.com; CalleGalileo from hip-hoptorockorjazzyflamenco. style of with shows ranging night, groupevery to variety,thispopularclubhostsadifferent .salacaracol.com; CalleBernardinodeObregón 18) such as concert offerings canbefoundinpublications lier fordrinks.Informationabout thenight’s manyof11pm, though thevenues openear- Performances around 10pmor usuallystart ROCK charge, anddrinkscost€7up. get hereyou wantaseat early.There’s nocover at11pm,butif quality music.Theshowsstart this placeoffers alow-key atmosphere and top- One of Madrid’s classicbutinformaljazzclubs, shows. nightly andclassicjazzatthe jazz tofusion,tango Performances fromLatin includeeverything morphs intooneof Madrid’s bestjazzvenues. Central until10pmwhenCafé you’ll stay sion €8-12) .populart.es in Spanish; Calle de las Huertas 22;admissionfree) inSpanish;CalledelasHuertas .populart.es an early evening drinkand,ifyou’rean earlyevening clever, Central Café La Riviera Galilei Galileo Sala Caracol Populart Café pals, like Pedropals, like AlmodóvarandPenelope around 11pm. Cruz. Live showsstart have thestagehere, alltaken playing for appreciative audiencesthat often includeTrueba’sfilm the international Latinjazzcircuit.Greats Bebo Valdés, like Chano DomínguezandRoyHargrove featured ofthelegendary artists inthe film,andhasputMadridfirmlyon tothesupport in part drid, aclubwhere theLatinjazzspiritofmovie lives on.Ithasbeen ahugesuccess,thanks and created Calle 54 legend forjazzaficionados. all over theworld, wasdubbedthe inspiring chronicleofLatinjazz.The Grammy-nominated filmwasshowninmajorfestivals the2000documentarymovieamong jazzaficionadosafter making Film director Fernando Trueba,oneof A CULT CLUB FROMACULT MOVIE But Truebawasn’tcontent with simplyrecording thegenre heloves; hewentonestep further (p157). Guía delOcio ThisArtDecobarisagreat spotfor (Map pp114-15; (Map A dance club and concert venue Adanceclubandconcertvenue Mp pp114-15; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map Mp pp122-3; (Map MADRID ••Entertainment Mp p112; (Map Mp p113; (Map % % 91 3652415;Paseo Bajo de % % % 91 5347557;www AMadrid clas- 91 3694143;www 91 5273594;www 91 4298407;www % 902 141412,915612832;Paseo delaHabana3; Atemple Buena VistaSocialClubofLatinjazzandisstillaname the namesinSpanish cinema, gaineda cult following

Covarrubias 24) held twotothree timesaweek. country andjazztotheline-up.Concertsare has broadeneditshorizonsrecently, adding and alternative concerts,‘TheWolf’sMouth’ ing world. Las Ventasing world.Las hasagrandMudéjar more enjoyabletopaytheextra€3for on abroilinghotsummerdayit’sinfinitely ets (€3.80)are forstanding-room ably cheaper thanthelatter. Thecheapest tick- theformerbeingconsider-and shade)seating, prestigious arena bullfighting intheworld. ing legend asthisisthemostdemandingand selves here, theyenter theannalsof bullfight- day.Iftorerosevery make anameforthem- thereseason, are of mainbullfighting the sixweeks thefiesta’s ring.Duringsurrounding thebroadsandy exterior coliseum-like arena andasuitably 237) 356 2200;www.las-ventas.com inSpanish;CalledeAlcalá Toros MonumentaldelasVentas fighters cometoswingtheircapesat May untiltheendof October,Spain’stopbull- deSanIsidro( From theFiesta p143 ) inmid- BULLFIGHTING Sport de Echegaray11) so arrive earlyastheplacefillsupfast. the mixtoo. It’safunvibeinsmallish club, have alittlecountryorsomebluesthrownin manyacts localrock‘n’roll,though place tosee biggest namesinrockandelectronica. down bytheManzanares hostssomeof the all inone,thissprawlingArtDecomonolith Tickets are dividedinto La BocadelLobo Honky Tonk , oneof thelargest ringsinthebullfight- Despite thename,thisisagreat Known foroffering mostlyrock Mp pp118-19; (Map

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MADRID MADRID MADRID 42) is booking tickets (which you later pick upatGate scheduled game. numberfor Theall-important Espina (Map p113 before) earlyintheweek a ticket counter atGate 42onAvenida deConcha 1pm &4.30-7pmTue-Sat) 531 9131;www.eol.es/lgalicia/;PlazadelCarmen1; is aticket€100) through agency –oneof thebest stop byforatour game inthelegendary canatleast stadium whocan’tcometoa fans) worldwide. Those a meccafor named after theclub’slong-timepresident, is Avenida398 4300;www.realmadrid.com; deConchaEspina1) partytobegin. wait fortheall-night trophy, headtoPlazadelaCibeles( p134 ) and to beintownwhenRealMadrid winamajor down yourspine. Ifyou’re fortunate enough inattendance,madrileños you’llget chills tion. Whentheydosowith80,000passionate asyou’llcometofootballingperfec-as close any team intheworld,andwhentheyclickit’s big-name stars (ifnotrecent trophies)than grimage forsportsfans. Real Madrid hasmore arenas; watching agamehere isakintoapil- football andoneof theworld’s great sporting isatemple to SantiagoBernabéu El Estadio FOOTBALL town andcheck thedailynewspapers. attention tothecolourfulposters tacked around deSanIsidro.during theFiesta getting aticket atthedoor,butbookahead you’llhaveFor mostbullfights, noproblem MapOffice; pp122–3 delaVictoria. ) onCalle office You canalsoget tickets attheauthorised Plaza delCarmen1; pp122-3; & 5pm-8pm) Ventas atLas the fight and costmore than€100. ofin theshade–are celebrities thepreserve tickets. –inthefrontrow Thevery bestseats 162 takes inthe formidable ble; oneof thebestis onanextra20%fortheirtrou- then, tacking h Real Madrid memorabilia intheclub shop. dressing roomsandplayers’ bench, ortobuy Localidades Galicia The For informationonwho’sinthering,pay Ticket beginacoupleof sales daysbefore Unless youbookyourticket (from€30to tours 10.30am-6.30pm except day after game) tours 10.30am-6.30pmexceptdayafter (La Central Bullfight &FootballTicket Bullfight Central (La % MADRID ••Shopping % Estadio SantiagoBernabéu 902 324 (withinSpain only). . Afew ticket agenciesbefore sell 91 5312732,31;www.eol.es/lgalicia/; madridistas (RealMadrid football h – your best bet is to try the –yourbestbetistotrythe 9.30am-1pm &4.30-7pmTue-Sat) (entry at Gate 40;adult/child€9/7; (entry atGate Mp pp122-3; (Map ticket office ticket Localidades Galicia Exposición deTrofeos % Mp p113; (Map ( 91 531 27 32, 91 91 5312732, h h 10am-2pm which 9.30am- % sales (Map (Map 91 . , , football history in its own right. football historyinitsownright. one of themostsuccessfulteams inSpanish its more illustriouscityrival,butithasbeen drid, mayhave longexisted intheshadowof 47 07; www.at-madrid.com; Paseo47 07;www.at-madrid.com; delaVirgindelPuerto) or La Latina –offers Latina plentyof individualsur-or La hedonistic after-dark crowd. inwithMadrid’sclub wearthatwillfitright that studiedunderground lookoralternative that’s asfunkyitisoffbeatandidealfor are Salamanca’salter ego,hometofashion and originalityof what’sonoffer. reasonable whenyouconsiderthequality attached, butpricesarea luxurypricetag designers have tooffer. Theyall comewith ing thebestthatSpanishandinternational ions withlavish andchic boutiquesshowcas- of theart. aremadrileños someof thefinestexponents Madrid’s place toshopand afantastic SHOPPING ground afew daysbefore. likely toget aticket ifyouturnupatthe calling it lacksinsizemakes upforinrawenergy. a mere seats 60,000), butwhat cente Calderón of December. month andthroughout every (and most usuallydo)open onthefirst Sunday allshopsmay Sunday,although to openevery music andbooks are theonly outletsallowed busyuntil8pmorlater.and stay Shops selling from 2pmto5pm.Shops reopen after lunch 10am andisoften broken upbyalonglunch July andlastintoAugust. into February. begininearly Summersales 7, justafter Three Kings’Day,andlastwell thing. Thewinterbeginaround January sales when pricesare slashedonjustabout every- rebajas, theannualwinter andsummersales of thejunkinsearch treasure.through converge inepicnumbers onSundaytopick dred-fold in ismultipliedahun- what you’llfind.Thatsense there’s although prises, littleuniformityin Madrid, isn’taslarge asRealMadrid’s (Vi- the homeof first-division team Atlético de Calderón Vicente Estadio The city’sotherbigclub,AtléticodeMa- The isduring The peakshopping season anAtléticodeMadridTo see game,try Central MadridCentral –whetherit’sSol,Huertas extent, MalasañaChueca and,toalesser Salamanca isthehomeof upmarket fash- shopping day starts at about atabout shoppingdaystarts madrileños’ % 91 3664707,butyou’re more than 19) where (p129) El Rastro Mp pp114-15 ; (Map lonelyplanet.com madrileños % 91 366 las ,

de Lagasca50) and hasearneda reputation asoneof the thefollowing itisorangeturquoise, orred) itis1980s fuchsiacolours (oneseason and options. She loves mixing blackwithbright top fashiondesigners, andbold withsexy lonelyplanet.com Spain. most creative contemporary designers in TV series. spotted onthecharacters of major Spanish label issuch ahitthatitsclothesare regularly and strongretro andAsian influences.The stream stylish,withfunclothesforwomen on theMadrid fashionscenetoalmostmain- moved fromthefresh seamlessly newface 65; CalledeFuencarral 45) accessories aswell. to goodtaste, withfinebags,beltsandother into aperfect workof art.Theshopisatemple like onlyrarely, these sowhynotmake each understand thatyou’llbuyexpensive shoes love SaraNavarro. to This designerseems love and,perhaps above theirshoes all,they .saranavarro.com; CalledeJorgeJuan22) are allabout comfort. chic withcolourful, fun stylesthat ing-shoe shops allover Madrid. Thedesignsare bowl- brandfromMallorcaand quirkyshoe has haute couture,andthisworld-famous cool 24) .es; CalledeSerrano need. ever more blackleatherandsilver studsthanyou’ll and filledtotherafters withtornT-shirts and in itsreverse snobbery, andit’sfunky,grungy club-cool isstillgoingstrong.Thisplacerevels Calle deFuencarral 45) deFuencarral Mercado Fashion &Shoes For alistof bookshopsinMadrid, see p110 . Books Divina Providencia Sara Navarro Camper Amaya Arzuaga

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Mp p6 Arpet de Aeropuerto p167; (Map 91 4299476;Calledelas % lonelyplanet.com 91 5226643;www Thisclas- Air France Air Europa Air Berlin Lingus Aer lonelyplanet.com more information. theTransportchapter ( airport. See p870 ) for car andAtesa/EuroDollar have booths atthe all over Madrid. Avis, Budget, Hertz, Europ- The big-namecar-rental agencies have offices RENTAL access tothecitycentre. herded ontooneof which inturngive these, (still not100%completed). You’llprobably be ring roads,theM30,M40andbrand-new M50 Thecityissurroundedbythree lock traffic. If youarrive bycar,beprepared tofacegrid- &Motorcycle Car p113; (Map % % (the nearest isMéndezÁlvaro metrostation the M30ringroad,isMadrid’s mainbusstation deautobuses.com; CalledeMéndezÁlvaro83) Estación SurdeAutobuses Bus Vueling .com) Express Virgin Transavia TAP AirPortugal Swiss Spanair Lufthansa KLM Iberia Wings German EasyJet Continental Airlines Midlands British Airways British Airlines Austrian Airlines American Alitalia ental.com) .com/bmi) ways.com) .flytap.com) even if their buses departfromelsewhere. iftheirbuses even Most buscompanieshave aticket officehere, .com) The major airlines operating atBarajas: Major buscompaniesinclude 902 020999;www.auto-res.net) 902 422242;www.alsa.es) ( ( % ( % % ( (www.easyjet.com) ( (www.vueling.com) % % 902 010321;www.klm.com) ( % ( ( ( 901 116712inSpain;www.swiss.com) ( ( % 902 400500;www.iberia.es) % % % % % 902 100323;www.alitalia.it) 902 131415;www.spanair.com) 902 330400;www.continental-auto.es) ( 902 320737;www.airberlin.com) 902 114478;www.transavia.com) ( 902 207090;www.airfrance.com) 902 220101;www.lufthansa.com) ( 902 401501;www.aireuropa.com) 902 502737;www.aerlingus.com) % % % ( ( ( MADRID •• Getting Around MADRID ••Getting % ( % % % 902 888459;www.virgin-express 91 6259704;www.germanwings ( 902 999262;www.britishair % 901 116718inSpain;www 902 111333;www.flybmi 902 257000;www.aua.com) 902 115570;www.aa.com) ( 900 961266;www.contin % ,

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MADRID MADRID MADRID way tonavigate Madrid, andgenerally easier www.metromadrid.es) Madrid’s modernmetro Metro valid on Atocha Single tickets, andPríncipePíostations. Recoletos only).AnotherlinelinksChamartín, front of theBiblioteca NacionalonPaseo delos Ministerios andin tions (withstopsatNuevos Chamartín andAtocha mainlinetrainsta- making aquick,north–southhop between de Madrid. InMadrid they’re itself, handyfor Aranjuez andotherpointsintheComunidad far afieldasElEscorial,AlcaládeHenares, erated by Renfe, thenationalrailways,goas The short-range Cercanías given.been it backcosts€120,pluswhatever fineyou’ve Municipal alloverstations centralMadrid. hours for€2.55.There are alsoprivate parking €1.80. Inthebluezones,youcanparkfortwo putting moneyinthemetre hour)for every can parkforamaximumof onehour(orkeep day in August.Inthegreenevery areas, you on Saturday;theSaturdayhours alsoapplyfor 8pm MondaytoFridayandfrom9am3pm both areas, parkingmetres applyfrom9amto marked blueorgreen street parkingzones.In Most of Madrid isnowdividedupintoclearly PARKING or snoozing. 2pm and4pm,whenpeopleare eithereating in abar. Thestreets are about deadbetween or tobeeitherbehind thewheel city seems towards theendof whenthewhole theweek hoursin thewee of themorning,especially jamswhich aresnarling traffic possible even rushhoursand evening frequently involve fromthecentre.lanes orright Themorning steel aspeopleturnleftfromtheright-hand thoroughfares sometimesrequire of nerves raising. Thegrandroundaboutsof themajor At first, drivinginMadrid canbealittlehair- & Motorcycle Car de laCibeles. delSolandPlaza 6am. TheyrunfromPuerta bus routes about6.30amand11.30pm.Night between 166 Should callthe yourcardisappear, AROUND MADRID ••SanLorenzo deElEscorial cercanías (city towing service; (city towingservice; (búhos) operateto frommidnight cercanías, regional trainsop- is a fast, efficient andsafe isafast, efficient only,cost€1.15. % Mp p917 ; (Map 91 3450666) % 902 444403; . Getting . Getting Grúa 82 00,915478600) without strayingtoofar. ImposingSanLorenzo allow youtoescapetheclamourof citylife manyrewardingit promises excursions that The Comunidad deMadrid may besmallbut AROUND MADRID 371 2131,902501130) Taxi cab ranksattrainandbusstations. as €4.50to/fromtheairportand€2.40from usually postedapply,such upinsidethetaxi charges, supplementary and 6am).Several pay €0.82perkilometre 10pm (€0.95between the metro. Flagfallis€1.75,after which you during peakhours it’squicker towalkorget They’restandards. handylatebut atnight, Madrid’s are taxis inexpensive byEuropean Taxi €6.15; single-triptickets cost€1. ticket validfor10rides(busandmetro) for where, it’sworthyourwhiletobuyaMetrobús you’re enroute onlypassingthrough else- operates fromabout 6amto1.30am.Unless southern suburbanMetroSur system, and colour-coded lines,inadditiontothemodern than getting togripswithbusroutes. Ithas11 II inthe16th century. complex was first ordered tobebuilt by Felipe here drawing citydwellers hasbeen sincethe of weekending. Thefresh, madrileños coolair catering tothrongs inthelowseason, closed shops, restaurants andhotels, manyof them a primlittletownoverflowing withquaint and west.Theone-timeroyalgetaway isnow thatsheltermountains Madrid fromthenorth sive place,risingupfrom thefoothillsof the of San Lorenzo deElEscorialisanimpres- The imposingpalaceandmonastery complex 1032m pop 15,364/elevation SAN LORENZODEELESCORIAL Guadarrama andSierradelPobre.’ (and skiingopportunities)aboundinSierrade Tothenorth,picturesquethe capital. villages de Henares isastunninguniversity eastof village of whileAlcalá Chinchón isamust-see, the centuries.Alsotosouth,beguiling asgetaways forroyaltydownthrough served western and southerngateways toMadrid and de ElEscorialandgracefulAranjuezguardthe Among the 24-hour taxi services are services Among the24-hourtaxi

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N400 MADRID MADRID MADRID 168 (chapterhouses) listas tothe Salas Capitulares the Princes). delosInfantes yourself inthePanteón alittle,you’llfind Backtracking their spouses. monarchs since IlieinterredCarlos with (Crypt of Kings),where almostallSpain’s scend tothe17th-century . You’llthende- Felipe IIorPalacio delosAustrias sion of thecomplexknownas stairs intoagalleryaround theeastern exten- the 16thand17thcenturies. range of SpanishandFlemish art from Italian, complex wasbuilt,whilethelattera contains former tells thestory(inSpanish) of howthe dePintura.The andtheMuseo de Arquitectura of thecomplexwhere you’llfindthe then downstairs tothenortheastern corner andanElGreco, tapestries containing and fied (1576). of marblestatue white Christcruci- Carrara Cellini’s proper, turnlefttoviewBenvenuto below thechoirOnceinsidechurch stalls. you enter, lookuptotheunusualflatvaulting ofthe statues thesixkingsof Judah. , whichfirst houses enter thePatio delosReyes was roasted alive onone).Fromhere you’ll gridiron, theinstrumentof hismartyrdom(he guard,holdingasymbolic stands St Lawrence western façade. Above thegatewayof astatue closedMon) 10am-5pmOct-Mar, 6pm Apr-Sep, .es inSpanish;admission€8,free WedforEUcitizens; San Lorenzo The mainentrancetothe Sights office Tourist Internet Information stitución providing anothermajor landmark. as themainthoroughfare andPlazadelaCon- of delReyserving thetownproper,withCalle Northoftaurants. here are thenarrowstreets the touristofficeaswellsomeshops andres- towhichde laFloridablanca, you’llfind close parallel tothemonastery’s mainwallisCalle marks thetown’ssouthernborder. Running You can’tmiss themonasticcomplexthat Orientation Martín; €2perhour; Martín; h Stairs leadupfrom the At thispointyouare obliged toheadup- rooms several Next you’llbeledthrough Directly aheadliesthesombre 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pmSat&Sun) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, AROUND MADRID ••Valle delosCaídos ( % ( ( % 918 90 15 33; Plaza de San Lorenzo, Galería 918 901533;PlazadeSanLorenzo, Galería % 918 905902;www.patrimonionacional h 918 90 53 13; Calle de Grimalidi 2; 918 905313;CalledeGrimalidi 11am-11pm) Panteón delosReyes Panteón Patio delosEvange- Real Monasterio de Monasterio Real basilica. As (Cryptof Palacio de is onits h Museo Museo 10am-

in Spanish;CalledeSanAntón4;mains€10-18; Monday andmealscostaround€30. of thebestintown.It’sopenWednesdayto where great grilledmeatsabound–isone views of themonastery. Thehotel’s restaurant – overhaul, butthey’re cleanandsomehave Rooms here are bare andcoulddowithastyle 6;s€42-44,d€53-59) CalledelaFloridablanca laprincipe.com; Príncipe Parrilla Hotel Sleeping &Eating gem, isalongtheroadtoÁvila. only Oct-May) % III forhisheir. The little neoclassicalcapricebuiltunder Carlos isthe the trainstation), leads downtothetownof ElEscorial(and monastery. IntheJardíndelPríncipe,which Frailes Bosco toSpaniards). José deRiberaand Hieronymus Bosch (El chest of worksby El Greco, Titian, Tintoretto, are richly aminortreasure frescoed, contain airyrooms,theceilingsof bright, whichThese extraordinary basilicaand stonemonument memorial of the‘fallen’ inSpain’scivilwar. An dictator de losCaídos, Francisco Franco’s Spanish society,you really mustvisitValle still tosomeextent theheartof runsthrough If youwanttounderstand thefaultlinethat VALLE DE LOS CAÍDOS from Madrid to ElEscorial(€2.25). .es) Hwy, thenfollowthesignstotown. drive there. Take theA6Hwy totheM600 west of Madrid andittakes 40minutes to hour tripcosts€3.15. platform3.Theone- Moncloa metrostation, bus toElEscorialfromthedepotoutside ends) Every 15minutes 30minutes (every onweek- &Away There Getting in thesoutheastern cornerof themonastery. dishes await. formal diningroom,where heartyCastilian cosy bardownstairs orheaduptothemore of thetown’sclassiceateries. Nibble at the A dimlylitplacefoundedin1768,thisisone La Cueva delos You canwanderaroundtheHuerta A few dozen Renfe San Lorenzo deElEscorialis59kmnorth- C8cercanías make theone-hourtripdaily 918 905903;admission€3.40; , theorderlygardensjustsouthof the Herranz , another18th-centuryneoclassical ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % Mp pp114-15; (Map 918 90 15 16; www.mesonlacueva.com 918 901516;www.mesonlacueva.com Casita deArriba Casita

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hours vary) the surroundingsierra. blow youaway,canenjoygreat viewsof ofbase thecross, where, ifthewinddoesn’t prisoners of war,manyof whomdiedinthe the factthatitwasconstructed byFranco’s itsspecialpoignancederivesalthough from both sidesof thewar. Thescaleisimpressive, emotional responses fromsupporters of northwest of Madrid, thisplacestillevokes lonelyplanet.com the park is viaHollywood Blvd,notunlike Hills greats as or remakes of forsuch Beverly thestudio sets you willbesimilarly taken withtheWildWest among while theyoung-at-heart filmbuffs the chance to hang outwithTomandJerry, has much tocatch theattention. Kidswilllove la Vega; adult/child&senior€33/25; ( Disney Worlditain’tbutthis World Warner Brothers Movie SOUTH OFMADRID hit ElEscorialcomingfromtheA6Hwy. Valle afew kilometres delosCaídos before you the site is €8.50. combined priceof thebusandentryticket to El Escorial’sPlazadelaVirgen deGracia. The One &Away There Getting 11am-4.30pmNov-Mar) Oct, take a funicular picnic area andasmallrestaurant. Youcan shrine. Nearthebasilicaare walkingtrails,a of ElEscorial.It’sanother6kmdrive tothe liesFranco.altar enter intotheheartof Bythe themountain. forest. Walkingintothebasilica,youbasically inthemiddleofmountainside apristinepine cist salutes. fas- Franco’s rule,complete withstiff-armed supporters comehere toreminisce about versary of Franco’sdeath–whendie-hard avoid visitingon20November –theanni- reactionary remnant of Francosupporters, process. Unlessyou’re fascinated bythesmall ting atopabunkerlike basilicadugintothe Mar) 600; admission€6; returns at5.30pm.Youcancatch thebusat monument at3.15pmTuesdaytoSunday.It % If you’re driving,you’llpasstheentryto The turn-offandticket boothis9kmnorth site At thememorial you’llfindamammothstonecrosssit- 91 821 12 34; www.warnerbrospark.com; San Martín de SanMartín 91 8211234;www.warnerbrospark.com; Herranz , 25kmsoutheastof centralMadrid, ( %

h (admission €2.50; Police Academy. Entrance to AROUNDMADRID ••SouthofMadrid 918 969028) 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pmNov- 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, up the mountain tothe up themountain ( % busheadstothe 918 901398;Carretera h h movie themepark movie from 10am,closing 11am-5.30pm Apr-

about thetownanditsattractions. lavished money uponitinthe 18thcentury. inspired bythepalace atVersailles inFrance, on alife of itsownasasuccessionof royals, of Felipe II’s modestsummerpalaces,buttook 11am-7.30pmTue-Sun Apr-Sep) Oct-Mar, citizens Wedfree, gardensfree; The SIGHTS May-Oct) de SanAntonio9; Office atthe The helpfulandfriendlystaff INFORMATION Infantas. onCalle central throughway offthe in frontof isright you.Thebusstation the rest of townspreads outtoyourleftand palacio anditsgardensare while toyourright, mediately enter intoalarge circle. The traffic come intotown,youcross Río Tajo andim- ample gardensare whatreally out. stand life. Thepalaceisopulent,butthefresh airand it remains aplacetoescapetherigours of city of Madrid,retreat, and awayfromtheriff-raff Aranjuez wasfoundedasaroyalpleasure 489m pop 43,926/elevation Aranjuez de Ocio. toParqueand get ontheC3Alinethatgoes headed towardsPinto. InPintochange trains that leave Atocharegularly trainstation available for€5. the signstocarpark,where parkingis Vega, about 15kmeastof theexit.Follow and turnoffatKm22forSanMartín dela retera deAndalucía)southoutof Madrid heading outhere. are complexandchange –alwayscheck before are alsorestaurants andshops. Openingtimes distract youifattentiontowane. starts There rollercoastershigh-speed (upto90km/h!) characters roamthegrounds,andrides screen comingtolife aslife-sized cartoon Studios. It’sallabout thestars of thesilver and finallyWarnerBrothers Movie World andthefinksofman, Batman GothamCity) lywood Blvd,SuperHeroes (featuring Super- World, theOldWest,Hol- Cartoon between Blvd,whereafter Sunset LA’s youcanchoose Getting aroundhereGetting iseasy;whenyou You canalsocatch oneof theC3cercanías To get here bycar,take theA4(theCar- Palacio Real ( % willloadyoudownwithinformation 918 910427;www.aranjuez.netinSpanish;Plaza h ( % 10am-6.30pm Nov-Apr,10am-8.30pm 918 910740;admission€4.50,EU h 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun startedasone Tourist Tourist 169

MADRID MADRID MADRID Casa del Labrador and the Casa deMarinos. andtheCasa delLabrador Casa loops around Aranjuez.It makes stopsatthe gone by. ofmuseum royalpleasure boatsfrom days 10am-8pm Tue-Sun Mar-Sep) 10am-8pm Tue-Sun Mar-Sep) entrance; adult/child€5/3; the practical waytoget totheJardín del Príncipe, birds andotheranimals. of Río Tajo, where youcanspotavarietyof with unusualvegetation, andalongthebanks leads pasttheMar deOntígola,aswampyarea into forests orfields.Oneof themostpopular other palacegardensbefore branching off theJardínthat runthrough delPríncipeor cio Realgardens. del Príncipe,anextension of themassive Pala- art.ItsitsintheJardínand somesecond-rate crammed totherafters withgold,silver, silk vation required) h delLabrador( Casa required) reservation 10am-6.15pmApr-Sep, Oct-Mar, ( deFalúas, whichtheMuseo contains Marinos find twomanmadeattractions:the few kilometres you’ll fromthepalacebase, their shadyperimeter, which stretches a century (anaudioguideisavailable). Within fromalloverback seeds theworldin 19th andexplorersish botanists startedbringing cies thathave rubbedalongnicelysinceSpan- Apr-Sep) sion free; inwood. stalactite ceilingcarved bic inscriptionsinstuccoandanintricate ofimitation anAlhambrainterior, withAra- Room) isalmostasextraordinary–aflorid the decoration.The cio Real( p127 ). Ittooktwoyears tocomplete ofechoes asimilarchamber inMadrid’s Pala- covered inhandcrafted porcelainfigures with (Porcelain Room)isextravagant, itswalls and theartthatfillsit.The ish) gives intothepalacehistory aninsight greatest mark. time here, IIIand Carlos IIlefttheIsabel Ofalltherulersornamentation. whospent box of a palaceisfilledwithacornucopiaof With more than300rooms,thissprawling 170 % Afterwards, strollinthelush Taking theobligatoryguidedtour(inSpan- Offering afuntouraroundtownandveryOffering Further away,towardsChinchón, isthe Several walksbeginonthehistoricpaths Several 10am-5.15pm Oct-Mar, 10am-6.15pm Apr-Sep, reser- 10am-6.15pmApr-Sep, 10am-5.15pm Oct-Mar, Chiquitren 918 910305;admission€3.50; AROUND MADRID •• South of Madrid AROUND MADRID ••SouthofMadrid . They’re amixof localandexoticspe- % 8am-6.30pm daily Oct-Mar, 8am-8.30pmdaily 8am-6.30pm dailyOct-Mar, , atasteless royaljewellerybox

( % 902 088089;trainstopnear Palacio Real % h Sala Fumadora (Smoking 918 910305;admission€5; 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Oct-Feb, is atouristtrain that Sala dePorcelana h gardens 10am-5.15pm Casa de Casa (admis- , a

.com; Carretera Andalucía98;s/d€37/48) .aisa-grupo.com inSpanish) .aisa-grupo.com the If you’re drivingfromMadrid, take theA4 THERE&AWAYGETTING in townformeatsandlocaldishes. on weekends whorevere itasamongthebest Joséispacked with gant spot,Casa €25-35; meals €25-35; the besthotel intown. make this modern designandattentive service little roomswithattachedbathrooms. friendly, charming hostal from thepalacio Hostal Castilla SLEEPING &EATING royal courtoncetreated itself. Aranjuez andtheentertainmentstowhich the tory of thenaturalattractionsof bullfighting, esting stop.You’llfinddisplaysonthehis- inPlazadeTorosmakeshoused foraninter- 11am-5.30pmTue-Sun Oct-Mar) 7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, tered around town. mesón-style (tavern-style) restaurants scat- drink) andthesmorgasbord of traditional or terraces, make foraheavenly spotfora main attractionsare itsplaza (whose a charming, ramshackle world.Chinchón’s is like stepping backintoanothereraand its village confines,visitingitsantique heart it hasgrownbeyond worlds apart.Although Chinchón isjust45km fromMadrid but pop 4868 Chinchón €2.17. cha ThetriptoAranjuezcosts trainstation. trains leave 15or20minutes every fromAto- Renfe (€3.15, 30minutes). from Madrid’s 15minutes Surevery Estación centre. Aranjuezis about 50kmaway. south totheM305,which leadstothecity .nh-hoteles.com; CalledeSanAntonio22;d€89-121) speciality isfrogs’legs;it’snearthe Frog’ isaclassicriverside restaurant whose Regardless of yourviewsonbullfighting, The easiestwaytoget here isbytrain. Verde El Rana NH PríncipedelaPaz hotel The buscompany Casa José Casa museum

h ( % lunch &dinnerTue-Sat, lunchonlySun) 902 240202;www.renfe.es) h ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % ( % ( breakfast, lunch&dinner) % ( 918 911488;CalledeAbastos32;meals % 918 921643;admission€1; 918 912627;www.hostalesaranjuez andthetowncentre, this 918 011571;PlazaSantiagoRusiñol; has buses toAranjuez hasbuses AISA

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Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ditional garb. items and tra- farm equipment, household lonelyplanet.com Sat &Sun) h Posada in thearea, headtothe details. sporadic visits.Ask atthetouristofficefor fice hasrecently begunaprogramallowing tothepublic,butlocaltourist of- closed asaliquorfactory.Bothareused usually was abandonedinthe1700sandlast that isoutof towntothesouth.Thecastle 16th-century Renaissance abovethat rises PlazaMayor andthelate- look atthe16th-centuryIglesiadelaAsunción youlong,butshould takedetain aquick shown atEaster. it’s alsothestage forapopularpassionplay the plazaisconverted intoabullring,and evocative balconies –itwinsourvote asoneof the most tiered, which is lined withsagging, Plaza Mayor The heartof townisitsunique,almostcircular SIGHTS office Tourist Police INFORMATION 7pm Nov-Feb) Smallofficebutveryhelpful. to9pmJul-Aug, to 8pm Sat&SunMay-Jun &Sep-Oct, 6; .com; PlazaMayor To get anideaof thetraditionallifestyle Chinchón’s historicalmonumentswon’t that sellstraintickets. for thereturn journey. sights, nottomentionmore strawberrysampling. The trainleaves AranjuezforAtocha at6pm fareyour ticket includesaguidedtourofthePalacio Real,MuseodeFalúas andotherAranjuez to samplethesummerstrawberrycropfromAranjuezorchards. UponarrivalinAranjuez, provide samplesoflocalstrawberries–onetheoriginal train’spurposeswastoallowroyalty have old-stylefrontandbackbalconies. Duringthe50-minute journey,railstaffinperioddress tion, pullingbehinditfourpassengercarriageswhichdate fromtheearly20thcenturyand 141F-2413steam engine pullsoutfromMadrid’sAtochawhen anantiqueMikado trainsta- royalty wouldescapethesummerheatandheadforroyalpalaceatAranjuez. was inaugurated inthe1850s–StrawberryTrainisathrowbacktotimewhenSpanish 1985 tocommemorate theMadrid–Aranjuezroute –Madrid’sfirstandSpain’sthirdraillinewhich the anormaltrainfromMadridtoAranjuez,butforsummerromanceit’shardbeatYou couldtake THE STRAWBERRY TRAIN 11am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, closedWed,11am-8pm 11am-2pm &4-8pmMon-Fri, Tickets canbepurchasedatany The journeybegins at10.05amonSaturdayandSundaybetweenearlyAprillate June ( Tren delaFresa % ( % , a well-run museum exhibitingold , awell-runmuseum 629 167070;PlazaMayor) plazas mayorinSpain.Insummer 918 940207;CalleMorata 5;adult/child€3/2; ( % AROUNDMADRID ••SouthofMadrid h 918 935323;www.ciudad-chinchon 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am- 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, tabry Train; ( Strawberry Museo Etnológico La Etnológico Museo Castillo delosCondes Castillo Renfe Renfe % 902 240202,228822;adult/childreturn €24/16) ( %

902 240202;www.renfe.es) & dinnerThu-Tue) Calle Teniente deZárate; meals€25-30,menu€12; Ortíz Mayor. ing afew anddrinkson sunny Plaza tapas lighter, there isnothingbetter thansavour- lamb). Butifyouare after somethingalittle restaurants dishing up Chinchón isloadedwithtraditional-style EATING here.you don’tplantostay if around)even a mealorcoffee (andapeek beaten for luxury.It’sworthstoppingbyfor historicalbuildingsandcan’tbe important Parador Nacionalisoneof thetown’smost Convento deAgustinos (AugustineConvent), .es; Avenida 1;rfrom€113) Generalísimo pool overlooking PlazaMayor. rooftop isthesurprise edges. Thehighlight rooms thatare cleanbutwornaroundthe Hostal Chinchón SLEEPING and coffee. from thesurroundingbalconiesover breakfast areand morningbullfights helddaily.Cheer into abullringthatdominates thecentre, gust, whenthetown’smainplazaisturned The FESTIVALS &EVENTS .com; CalledeJoséAntonio12;s/d/tr€35/42/54; public areas here are nicerthanthesmallish Mesón Cuevas delaComendadora Cuevas Mesón Nacional Parador Fiesta Mayor Forsomething substantial, ( % isheldfrom12to18Au- office oranytravel agency 91 8935398;www.hostalchinchon ( % 918 940836;www.parador cordero asado(roast ( Theformer % . Begunin 918 940947; s h

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The 171 lunch MADRID MADRID MADRID Tourist office Tourist Information to escapethecity. legendary university, and it’saterrific place turn. Throwinsomesunnysquares andthe atevery buildingsseemingly cal sandstone It’s like asmallerSalamancawithhistori- highway, Alcalá deHenares isfullof surprises. toMadridSo close andjustoffanunappealing pop 197,804 ALCALÁ DEHENARES to Chinchón. and exitontotheM404,which makes itsway chón iseasy toreach bycar. Take theA4Hwy the 50-minute ridecosts€3.20. and from astoponPlazaCondedeCasal, leave hourtoChinchón.every Thebuses (bus337)approximately pany hasservices La Veloz THERE&AWAYGETTING memorable. to thecaves underground, it’ssure tobe and thebarrels covered infamoussignatures From thehugetokeep wine) goatskins(used an experienceyou’llwrite postcardsabout. Meson ‘Caves of Wine’isguaranteedtobe 35; 13;meals€30- .cuevasdelvino.com; CalleBenitoHortelano here. ifyoudecidenottoeat even worth seeing maze of oldcellars dugintotheearth.They’re isa head tothishomelyplace. Itsbasement 2pm & 4-6.30pm mid-Sep–May) 2pm &4-6.30pm mid-Sep–May) Niños; 172 delVino Cuevas Mesón Sitting 45kmsoutheastof Madrid, Chin- 17; meals€30; a reservation. day, don’teven thinkofarrivingwithout you’re cominghere orholi- onaweekend tables overlooking thePlazaMayor. If patio orsnaffleoneofthefew balcony aseatintheverdanteither take internal ovens andaseriesofintimate diningareas – fromitswood-fired cooking hearty derful, perimeter, Café delaIberiaproduceswon- favourite ofthemesons Café de la Iberia delaIberia Café AUTHOR’S CHOICE h h AROUND MADRID ••AlcaládeHenares lunch &dinnerWed-Mon) Mp pp114-15; (Map 10am-2pm & 5-7.30pm Jun–mid-Sep, 10am- 10am-2pm & 5-7.30pmJun–mid-Sep, ( % h 918 810634;Plazadelos Santos ( lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) % % 91 894 08 47; Plaza Mayor 91 8940847;PlazaMayor 91 4097602) ( % on PlazaMayor’s Theatmospheric 918 940206;www bus com- Our Diego 6;s/d€90/105 Husa ElBedel Sleeping &Eating relating tohislife. with periodfurniture andbitspieces beautiful, colonnaded & 4-6.30pmTue-Sun Oct-May) sion free; ( Natalde Casa in theMuseo deCervantes Miguel birthplaceisrecreated tobe Cervantes’ lieved Saavedra. Thesite be- Miguel deCervantes birthplace of thecountry’sliterary figurehead, award everyyear. literary out theprestigious Premio Cervantes rium, where of thekingandqueen Spaingive chapel andthemagnificent Sunday), which gives intotheMudéjar apeek Monday toFriday,11perdaySaturdayand more interesting isthe ings, datingmostlyfromthe17thcentury,but can wanderaroundvariousfacultybuild- of learningforalongperiod.You cipal seats the university wasoneof thecountry’sprin- on amuch-restored building, Renaissance 83 4384; Cisnerosfoundeda Cardinal The cityentered aneraof prosperitywhen Sights one hour). Sur (€1.45, nida de América andEstación five to 15 minutes) fromdepotsattheAve- heading towardsZaragoza. Alcalá deHenares isjust35kmeastof Madrid, &Away There Getting being converted intoa university buildingand a nearbybuildingis he gotmarriedhere! It’svery near themain fact, oneLonelyPlanetauthorliked itsomuch courtyard, it’sanatmosphericplacetoeat.In its woodenbeams,openfireplace andadjacent considered thebestrestaurant intown.With national paradorhotels, thiseleganthostería is Colegios 3;menú€27; mal fare suchandmixed assalads plates. door eating,thisisagreat placetoget infor- h location. offers spaciousaccommodationandaperfect % Several buses leave buses MadridSeveral regularly (every delEstudiante Hostería El Ruedo The townisalsodeartoSpaniardsasthe 9am-11pm Thu-Tue) 918 899654;entranceonCalledelaImagen2;admis- h h 9am-9pm) 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1.30pm 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % ( % 918 806919;CalledelosLibreros 38; h ) Asophisticated hotel that 918 893700;www.husa.es; PlazaSan here in1486.Nowcentred Withaquietpatioforout- lunch &dinnerdaily) guided tour(sixperday , which liesalongthe parador hotel. ( . It’sfilled Mayor Calle % 918 880330;Calledelos Paraninfo audito- university lonelyplanet.com Runbythe ( % 918 Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com (€1.15, 50minutes) daily. cercanías make thetriptoAlcaládeHenares SIERRA DEGUADARRAMA lonelyplanet.com del Mundo (ingoodwinters thetop endof scootacross totheBola lovely rideinitself), on thelocaltrain toPuertodelosCotos(a de Siete Picos. the Valle delaFuenfríaandaclimbupMonte shorter walks,includingdayexcursions up complete, butthere are optionsfor several Verde inthesouthwest.Itwouldtake daysto mosierra inthenorthandPuertode laCruz takes thePuerto deSo- in55peaksbetween or hills, themainoneknownas trailsare markedSeveral the outthrough popular withwalkers bikers. andmountain townanditssurroundingsareThis mountain 1188m pop 6698/elevation Cercedilla minutes). inMadridfrom PlazadeCastilla (€2.55,40 h % Real el deEducaciónAmbientalManzanares Centro routes in the park.Foradvicecheck outthe a wealthof options,with1500climbing you tofreshwater pools.Rockclimbers have Parque delaPedriza, one of which brings of thesierrafromsummit. strong roundtowers. There are great views spacedturretscartoon withitsevenly and castle lookslike somethingoutof aDisney The perfectly (almosttooperfectly) preserved 10am-5pmTue-Sun Oct-Mar) 2pm &3-6pmTue-Sun Apr-Sep, ( delosMendoza 15th-century storybookCastillo makes outfromothers itstand like itisthe town,butwhat littlemountain This isasweet 908m pop 6140/elevation ElReal Manzanares the mountains. make great wantingtoexplore forthose bases Manzanares which ElRealandCercedilla, the homeof charming several townssuch as rama, apopularwinter skidestinationand To thenorthof Madrid lies Sierra deGuadar- % A constant streamA constant of C1,C2andC7Renfe Bus 724runsregularly toManzanares trailsleadintotheNear town,several Mountain bikersMountain cantake theirbikes up . 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a coupleof train kilometres fromCercedilla Carretera Barraco-Béjar Km42;d€110-120) Carretera Barraco-Béjar first daily, closed 20 Sep-20 Oct daily, closed 20 Sep-20 Molinos Km2, Guadarrama;mains€15-27; localdishes. tasty €27) serves looks thesierra. Therefined restaurant (menú suckling pigorpigs’trotters. area fare, forexcellentCastilian such asroast comes recommended asoneof thebestin courts. Itsrestaurant (mains€9to€16)also all thecomforts,includingpoolandtennis offersesque valley,thelargeBarranca La d withbreakfast €100; del Pinar delaBarranca,Navacerrada;swithbreakfast €75, LaBarranca Hotel Sleeping &Eating here regularly (€2.65,onehour). deMoncloaalsoruns biador deAutobuses 691 fromplatform14of Madrid’s Intercam- train changefourdaily).Bus inCercedilla, C8B you canget toPuertodeNavacerrada onthe €18-28) tickets inSpanish;lift www.puertonavacerrada.com area isbestavoided. popular business attheweekend, whenthe available pistes are notextensive, butit’sa Madrid! Snowlessyears are commonandthe home about, but,hey,it’sonly60kmfrom darrama. Theslopesaren’t anythingtowrite head uptothemodestskiresorts intheGua- If you’re here in winter, youmaywantto Skiing deMoncloa(€3,onehour). Autobuses platform 15of Madrid’s Intercambiador de 80 minutes, 15daily),ortake bus684from (€1.28, toCercedilla the C2cercanías linegoes area. Accommodationisscarceinthisstation. Información Valle delaFuenfría hill toCercedilla. Guadarrama’s bestskipiste) andpedaldown- option. Carretera delasDehesasKm2; 12 24; Puerto de los Cotos; lift tickets €25-34) tickets delosCotos;lift 12 24;Puerto short –runs.The with 13kmof mostlyeasy–andfrustratingly Sala deGuadarrama From Madrid’s Chamartíntrainstation, The maincentre is From Madrid’s Chamartíntrainstation, Parador Nacional deYou canget informationattheCentro parador, cercanías line(€1.51,twohours with this elegantstonehotel over- ( %

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, MADRID MADRID MADRID 174 45 minutes). up fromMadrid’s (€2.35, PlazadeCastilla others huddledtogether. Plentyof zip buses There youwillfindthis the towncentre tothe they’realthough openyear-round. the relative coolduringthesummermonths, crowd intothemtogorge ongrilledmeatin with pepperedgos, buttothesouthisasmallrise north of Madrid alongtheA1HwytoBur- isanondescriptvillageEl Molaritself 33km 850m pop 5133/elevation El Molar €1.15, 25minutes). deMoncloa(Mapde Autobuses pp114–15 ; five to10minutes fromtheIntercambiador You canalsotake bus601,which leaves every Pardo. The13kmtriptakes just15minutes. M40 HwytotheC601,which leadstoEl by Goya. oncartoons based out, particularlythose standart ondisplayinside,thetapestries a bitof fresh airandaheartylunch. Ofthe familieslookingfor day fillswithmadrileño It’s surroundedbylush gardens,andonSun- Sun Jun-Sep) 10.30am-6pmMon-Sat,9.30am-1.30pm 1.30pm SunOct-May, in the17th,thisopulent Built inthe15thcenturyandremodelled deElPardo Palacio Real OFMADRID NORTH if youplantocomeonaweekend. farinadvance toreserve place, soyou’llneed dishes.Thisisapopular surprising seafood pricey butdeliciousand(given thelocation) Alonso; admission€5; inSpanish;CalledeManuel 00; www.patrimonionacional.es If you’re drivingfromMadrid take the To findthem,followtheyellowsignsfrom cuevas (cellars) oldandnew. AROUND MADRID •• North of Madrid ofMadrid AROUND MADRID ••North was Franco’s favourite residence. h 10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat,9.30am- . Bodegón deOlivares palacio cueva andallthe ( Madrileños % 913 7615

h ents andtraditionalSpanish dishes. fresh, creative onlocalingredi- cuisinebased inBuitrago,ElArcoisknownforits taurant adds uptoagreat Madrid getaway. The owners are afriendlylotaswellwhich have stoneworkandwoodenbeams. exposed a charming smallfamilyinnwhere therooms inatastefully convertedHoused barn,this is 2, LaAcebeda;rfrom€60; Posada delosVientos SLEEPING &EATING hill trails. pointsforwinding asstarting trago andserve and rest of thesierra;some,like his barber,Eugenio Arias. afewcontains worksthattheartistgave to sion free; delCastillo Iglesia deSantaMaría the 15th-centuryMudéjarandRomanesque old we like it. try of itsneighbours. Andthat’sjustwhy Pobre thetourismindus- hasyettodevelop so manycreature Sierra comforts,thesleepy and others lookingfornature withoutquite Sierra deGuadarrama. Popularwith hikers a quietstretch of eastof mountain thebusier Buitrago isthe entrywayintothe Sierra Pobre, Buitrago &SierraPobre Buitrago (€4.35,1½hours). connecting Madrid’s with PlazadelaCastilla www.continental-auto.es) The THERE&AWAYGETTING Picasso Museum PicassoMuseum In Buitragoyoucanstrollalongpartof the El Arco Tiny hamletsare scattered the throughout lunch only Fri-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun)lunch onlyFri-Sun . You can also take a peek into city walls.Youcanalsotake apeek , make forprettyEl Atazar walksfromBui- Continental Auto Company Continental Auto h ( % 11am-1.30pm &4-6pmWed-Mon) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 918 680911;CalleArco6;mains€12-15; ( % 918 680056;PlazaPicasso; admis- h ( has a dozen daily buses hasadozen daily buses % Sat, Sun&holidayswinteronly) 918 699195;CalleEncerradero Puebla delaSierra lonelyplanet.com

( and thesmall % Thebestres- 91 7456300; , which

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