Mad About Hue Won’T Be Available Until Jan

HYDRO SOLUTION ADOLFO’S NEUTROGENA CALLS ON TECHNOLOGY FROM WISDOM THE EAST FOR ITS THE DESIGNER DISCUSSES ALL THINGS A MUSE MUSES LATEST LAUNCH. FASHION AND BEYOND, FROM TODAY’S TALENT A CANDID CONVERSATION WITH VICTOIRE DOUTRELEAU. PAGE 10 PAGE 2 TO THE DUCHESS OF WINDSOR. PAGE 12

SANTA DID ARRIVE Last-Minute Surge Saves Holiday 2014

By DAVID MOIN

RETAILERS PULLED off a pretty good holiday season after all, despite an erratic eight weeks of highs and lows, markdown mania and margin uncertainty. They owe it mostly to their aggressive and earlier- MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY than-ever promotions; sustained online growth; gen- erally good weather; an extra selling day; easy com- WWD parisons to last year when winter storms blanketed the country, and huge volume surges on Thanksgiving, Black Friday, Cyber Monday and the Saturday before and the day after Christmas. The Dow Jones Industrial Average topping 18,000, declining unemployment and lower gas prices — down $1 since June on average — also helped put consumers in the shopping spirit. The government reported last week that the economy grew at a 5 percent annual rate in the third quarter, spurring optimism for the year ahead, though the mood is offset somewhat by ongoing concerns about the absence of trends in women’s apparel, and the lack of sustained wage growth to propel spending by the masses. Hard facts from retailers about the holiday season Mad About Hue won’t be available until Jan. 8, when December com- Forget the simple pop of color. Jewelers, parable-store sales are disclosed by a small group of especially fi ne, are going all in, livening up retailers, and the third week of February, when fi rms start reporting their fourth-quarter results, which will their pieces with a rainbow’s array of continue through late March. Retailers are expected stones. For more colorful creations, to report single-digit sales gains of around 4 percent see pages 4 and 5. for the season, consistent with a projection made last fall by the National Retail Federation. MasterCard indicated last week that U.S. retail sales rose 5.5 percent from the day after Thanksgiving through Christmas Eve. But there are concerns about profi t- margin erosion due to incessant promoting and markdowns, and some retailers and retail analysts early in December estimated sales gains at 2 to 3 percent. “There was a lot of stuff given away,” observed Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Brooks Brothers. “Consumers went out SEE PAGE 6

Above: Nam Market Share Fight Cho’s ruby, emerald, multicolor Takes Toll on Margins sapphire, blue zircon, amethyst, By EVAN CLARK tsavorite and diamond 18- PROFIT MARGINS are at serious risk of becoming the karat white first casualty in the ongoing battle for market share. gold and black Retailers won’t crunch the fi nal fourth-quarter rhodium earrings. numbers until February, but the early read from Left: Stephen revenues and price promotions shows that bottom Webster’s black lines are in jeopardy. With some exceptions, such diamond, citrine, as the luxury sector, sales have been lackluster and amethyst, even steep price promotions are not necessarily rhodolite, red moving the needle. Consumers are continuing to garnet, blue gravitate toward gadgets and all things technologi- topaz, peridot cal. When they do turn to fashion, they have more and iolite than enough brands to consider. And the vital wom- Erickson Beamon’s 18-karat white en’s business is ailing. vermeil and hand-painted gold collar. Witness the third-quarter mea culpa by J. Crew Swarovski crystal necklace. Group Inc.’s Millard “Mickey” Drexler, who told WWD: “In the shopping malls, people are not going to apparel stores, but restaurants are up, active is up and nonapparel is doing OK. Perhaps there are too many apparel businesses out there with too many players — and a lack of quality and style. Women’s has been denigrated or downgraded as a category.” Already, chains that were teetering on the edge have given up the ghost. So far, Deb Shops fi led for bankruptcy, Delia’s Inc. is planning to liquidate and the Dutch brand Mexx entered receivership. In years past, troubled companies typically would wait until January to pull the plug, keeping fi ngers crossed that shoppers would deliver some kind of STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON Christmas miracle. SEE PAGE 9 2 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 WWD.COM

American Apparel Hires Moelis THE BRIEFING BOX it’s a passion and one he seems unlikely to give up By EVAN CLARK anytime soon. IN TODAY’S WWD “What is most interesting and exciting is that THE HEAT is on American Apparel Inc., which American Apparel is building a business that in- has hired investment bank Moelis & Co. to explore volves manufacturing, distributing and retailing strategic options, according to sources familiar products that people desire and they are doing so in Victoire Doutreleau, Pierre Bergé and Roger with the situation. a humane fashion,” he said. “American Apparel pro- Thérond at La Coupole in 1959. For more on Moelis will fi eld interest from would-be acquir- vides living wage jobs and living wage opportunities Doutreleau, see page 10 and WWD.com. ers, such as Irving Place Capital, and also will re- in the United States. That to me is so electrifying.… view the company’s capital structure. The move We have proven that the Made in USA, sweatshop- could signal that the American Apparel saga has free business model not only works — but competes, entered a phase that will ultimately untangle the successfully, with offshore models. complicated web of forces vying for control of the “I remain focused on creating jobs, most impor- high-profi le U.S. apparel retailer. tantly in Los Angeles, and working to prove that It’s a tricky time for the company, which not only the sweatshop paradigm can be broken within the received a letter of interest from John Howard’s Irving context of the apparel industry,” he said. “This has Place, but is also working on a turnaround under new always been my life journey.” leadership while fending off Charney said the company has ousted founder Dov Charney, been unable to expand its store who could sue his former em- base over the past four years due ployer and is seen seeking dam- to a “constrained capital struc- ages of more than $100 million. ture, which has also impaired Shares of American Apparel the company’s ability to correctly spiked in recent weeks on ’’ manage the timing of raw-materi- hopes of a takeover — Howard al purchases and its manufactur- Retailers pulled off a pretty good holiday season, owing is said to have said the company ing fl ows in a way that maximizes mostly to their aggressive and earlier-than-ever promotions and could be worth as much as $1.40 sales and profi tability.” sustained online growth. PAGE 1 a share pending due diligence. American Apparel has 245 The stock, which traded as low stores, but people who have ex- as 50 cents this month, held amined the business believe it With sales consistently lackluster, profi t margins are at steady on Friday at $1.06, giving could profi tably expand to 500 serious risk of becoming the fi rst casualty in the ongoing battle the company a market capital- or so. for market share. PAGE 1 ization of $185 million. “American Apparel’s earn- But Charney, the company’s ings power to date has been Jean-François and Élodie Piège have opened the restaurant iconoclastic founder and cre- hampered by the leveraged Clover, an intimate eatery in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés ative lodestar, remains the big capital structure it has been district with just 10 tables for two. PAGE 10 question mark. saddled with as a result of the He’s the company’s larg- global fi nancial crisis of 2008,” London’s Victoria & Albert Museum will put luxury under est shareholder and holds a Charney said. “Under the the spotlight, with an exhibition called “What is Luxury?” 43 percent stake, although he company’s existing debt cov- opening in April. PAGE 11 shares the voting rights for Under the enants, American Apparel’s that stock with investment fi rm prospects have been and con- Costume National creative director Ennio Capasa and Standard General. Charney company’s existing tinue to be challenged.” Marina Abramovic are joining forces for her performance had a falling out with Standard Charney continues to find at The Art of Elysium’s annual “Heaven” gala. PAGE 11 General, which controls much support within the company of the board that ultimately debt covenants, and employees have been Ralph Lauren cast a herd of beach beauties — fi ve fi red him this month. weighing in with their backing camels and new face Sanne Vloet — for his spring American Apparel named at a new Web site, teamdov.com. American Apparel’s campaign shot by Bruce Weber. PAGE 11 Paula Schneider his successor With the hiring of Moelis, the as chief executive offi cer and battle for American Apparel ap- tapped Colleen Brown as chair- prospects have pears to have returned to where Retired French developer Jean-Louis Solal, considered man. The company is said to it began. the father of the European shopping mall, died on have offered the founder a mul- been and continue to According to sources famil- Christmas Day at 86. PAGE 11 timillion dollar gig as a consul- iar with his thinking, Charney tant if he would sign away his be challenged. believes the struggle began Retailer Takashimaya attributed the 22.8 percent rise right to sue, but the deal never when elements within American in net profi t for the nine months ended Nov. 30 to higher came to fruition. — DOV CHARNEY Apparel started agitating for a sales at its department stores. PAGE 11 In a statement to WWD last sale of the company in February. week, Charney explained: “I But before the board moved to Hotel Costes, the moody, low-lit Parisian hotel, has was unable to settle with the board primarily over oust Charney, it convinced him to agree to a stock tapped the British activewear label Monreal London to board composition issues. Had I settled, the busi- offering that diluted his stake, thus weakening his dress the staff at its gym and spa. PAGE 11 ness and all of its stakeholders could have been hand when the axe fi nally fell. placed in a position of risk.” That is at least part of the argument Charney be- Famed designer Adolfo has a good deal to say about his American Apparel isn’t just a job for Charney — lieves he could make in court — if it comes to that. storied career, the current state of fashion and his ever- evolving business. PAGE 12

ON WWD.COM Neutrogena Boosts Hydration Offering EYE: Fashion muse Victoire Doutreleau sat down for an ’’ interview in her Saint-Germain-des-Prés apartment in Paris. Water Gel doesn’t contain H20. because we’re talking about hy- For more, see WWD.com/eye. By JAYME CYK “We don’t think that it will be dration and its benefi ts,” said confusing [for the consumer] Freyre, who added that the NEUTROGENA’S LAUNCH of the Hydro Boost line consists of 10 Hydro Boost range marks the first stockkeeping units in Asia and FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA time that the brand has brought parent Johnson & Johnson will @ WWD.com/social over technology from Asia Pacific bring over more items to the to the U.S. marketplace. U.S. in the future. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. So, why now? Freyre declined to dis- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. “Women in the [Asia Pacifi c] cuss sales projections, but COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 130. MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, region have as many as 18 steps industry sources estimate Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and in their beauty routine, while in that the Hydro Boost col- two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, the U.S. they have an average of lection, which launches and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, six,” said Michelle Freyre, gen- in January, could do Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. $15 million in retail FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, eral manager of Neutrogena. P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please “We’re seeing the U.S. consumer sales in its first year include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes becoming much more savvy and in the U.S. or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. expecting more.” “In Asia today, hy- If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed The three-product assort- dration is the num- with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a ment, which includes Gel- ber-one skin-care subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Cream, Water Gel and Gel- benefit sought WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. Cream Eye, each priced at after by consum- For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. $17.99, is made up of hyaluronic ers in the 18-to- To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, acid, glycerin and olive extract 34 age range,” UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, to lock in moisture and draw said Freyre. “It AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY water into the skin. actually sur- REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS

Contradictory to its name, Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost range. passed antiaging.” ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. A LOOK AHEAD A sneak peek at WWD’s upcoming and noteworthy issues.

DSQUARED @ 20 Milestone Issue Date: JANUARY 16 Close Date: DECEMBER 16

Beauty Inc February Issue Issue Date: FEBRUARY 13 Close Date: JANUARY 23

The Oscars Issue Issue Date: FEBRUARY 18 Close Date: JANUARY 30

NY Fashion Week Issue Dates: FEBRUARY 12—FEBRUARY 19

Swarovski@120 Milestone Issue Date: MARCH 9 Close Date: FEBRUARY 2

REACH Fashion, retail and apparel decision-makers

CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, AT 212.630.3935 OR [email protected] 4 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014

mad about hue JEWELRY DESIGNERS ARE EMBRACING THE FULL COLOR SPECTRUM, CREATING RAINBOW-EFFECT LOOKS THAT RANGE FROM DELICATE TO DRAMATIC.

FOR MORE, SEE Solange Azagury-Partridge’s multicolor cabochon necklace set in blackened 18-karat white gold. L WWD.com/ fashion-news.

STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON 4 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 5 WWD.COM

AS29’s multicolor sapphire earrings. L mad about hue JEWELRY DESIGNERS ARE EMBRACING THE FULL COLOR SPECTRUM, CREATING RAINBOW-EFFECT LOOKS THAT RANGE FROM DELICATE TO DRAMATIC.

Mimi So’s 18-karat gold bangles set with diamonds, amethysts, sapphires, rubies and tsavorite. L

J/Hadley’s 14-karat yellow gold and rhodium, multitourmaline and pavé diamond ring. L

L Effy Jewelry’s 14-karat white gold ring set with white diamonds and multicolor sapphires.

IlanaL Ariel’s 14-karat gold ring set with white sapphires, pink sapphires, opals and green tourmalines.

FOR MORE, SEE Solange Azagury-Partridge’s multicolor cabochon necklace set in blackened 18-karat white gold. L WWD.com/ fashion-news. L Lito’s 14-karat yellow gold ring set with multicolor diamonds, tsavorite, rubies and pink sapphires. Wendy Yue’s multifinger ring set with diamonds, rubellite, tsavorite and yellow and orange sapphires. L L STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON Noor Fares’ sapphire, diamond, amethyst, ruby and tsavorite ring set in black rhodium-finished 18-karat yellow gold. 6 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 Holiday Selling Spikes Late in the Game {Continued from page one} clearances and bringing in spring goods. traffi c, and rationalizing the brick-and- I A later Christmas rush, partly because when they realized there were great There is greater self-purchasing com- mortar footprint in an overstored nation. retailers got better at delivering on time deals out there. The truth about the sea- pared to December and a trend toward “We all need to continue to look for down to the wire, and consumers contin- son will be known when the quarterly buying familiar replenishment items. and create more compelling gift alterna- ued to play the waiting game in the belief reports come in. The last few days of Business should gain steam in February tives for the consumer as they consider that they will get the best possible deal. the season were better for business but as Valentine’s Day approaches. options in electronics and other cat- “Santa Claus came. November was everyone was very, very promotional. We Among the biggest upside surprises of egories that may not be the core of the really strong,” said David Zant, presi- were more promotional also. I hope it holiday 2014 was the strong consumer re- business,” said Tony Spring, chairman dent and chief merchandising offi cer of gets better next year.” sponse to the buy-online-pick-up-in-store and ceo of Bloomingdale’s. “We were Belk Inc. He said Belk saw sales strength Other retailers contacted this past services retailers have been rolling out pleased with the expansion of accesso- from Thanksgiving to the Saturday after weekend sounded less concerned, say- over the past year. ries, candles, some of the luxury catego- Black Friday, then a lull through much of ries, coats and cashmeres, but we need December. But “last Saturday, it just re- to continue to look for those businesses ally opened up and carried forward all The day after Christmas that are more special and gift-oriented week. Week four was very substantial for was a big one for if we want the customer to think of buy- us. We had an exceptional November and Manhattan retailers. ing gifts in department stores. In the we are on plan for December.” end, it all comes down to making the Zant added that markdowns are in stores more distinctive. We are pleased line with last year. “We feel very good with the progress we’ve made, but we about margins coming out of December.” know we have more to do next year.” Outerwear, sweaters, fleece, jack- Gerald “Jerry” Storch, the incoming ets, vests, active apparel and active Hudson’s Bay Co. ceo, summarized how shoes were bestsellers recently. Zant the season tracked for the industry over- also cited Nike, Skechers and Under all, saying, “It was a great Black Friday Armour. “Inventories are appropriate weekend, particularly on the Internet. right now,” he said. Cyber Monday was very strong, then “There was no simple or straight line business hit a trough and retailers and pacing for the business. It tended to go in brands got a little scared. But a week spurts,” said one retail ceo. “There were before Christmas it got very strong, good days and bad days and in the end, especially in bricks-and-mortar,” he it was OK. I don’t think the level of pro- added. “Super Saturday was a record motions was that different” from a year

SHOPPER PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER SHOPPER PHOTOS BY ing margins would be on par or close to last year’s. They acknowledged being more vociferous in communicating price cuts, thereby giving the impres- sion they were more promotional without actually staging more promotions or running steeper markdowns. Still, on Sunday, deep discounting’’ was evident. L.L. Bean offered free shipping and up to 50 percent off; Express was up to 60 percent off; MyHabit was up to 70 percent off; Rebecca Minkoff, Kenneth Cole outlets and Barneys New York were all up to 60 percent off, while Saks Fifth Avenue’s designer sale offered up to 70 percent off. Apparel sales were very soft until close to the end of the holiday run, though outerwear and active/ath-leisure, as well as accessories, boots and jewelry, held up for the most part.

Last Saturday, it just really opened up and carried forward all Steep markdowns posed week. Week four was profi t margin concerns. very substantial. Among the biggest concerns: consum- day and the rest of the days leading up to ago. Yet the shopping pattern was differ- — DAVID ZANT, BELK INC. ers showing little interest in most appar- Christmas were strong.” ent, as many consumers took advantage el categories, too much sameness seen on Storch said Christmas 2014 could have of Black Friday deals offered days before the shelves and the day-to-day unpredict- been the best Christmas for retailers Black Friday itself, and many waited till Other positive trends were evident ability of the retail business. since 2007. “Women’s apparel did come the last moment to shop in hopes of get- in toys, particularly those related to the Looking to 2015, retailers see a few on stronger, in the end.” ting even better deals. movie “Frozen”; housewares; top-priced positives, namely lower unemployment, Outlining what made holiday 2014 dis- The ceo also said margins would come luxury goods, with Celine and Brunello and lower fuel costs, which should help tinctive, Storch cited: in on plan. “If stores had been closed a Cucinelli among the most popular la- gross margins and costs. There will also I Double-digit growth online, most im- couple of days from bad weather, or the bels; boots; gift cards; luggage; electron- be continuing double-digit gains in on- portantly as it relates to those with brick- weather been in the 60s for days, or if ics including televisions, mobile devices line sales. and-mortar and online operations. there was some catastrophic event, mar- and headphones, and restaurants. Other Among the top challenges for 2015 are: I Store traffi c falling dramatically in gins might have been severely impacted,” strong-selling brands were Nike, The I Advancing omnichannel strategies and some cases. he said. North Face, Under Armour, Beats and providing additional options for consum- I Higher conversion rates because shop- “As it turned out, we had a good sea- the Xbox One. ’’ ers to shop when and where they want. pers are “mission-oriented,” partly due son with midsingle-digit growth pretty For the next few weeks, retailers don’t I For online pure plays, launching brick- to pre-shopping online. evenly spread between men’s, women’s expect major volume, with many people and-mortar formats. I Smartphones being used inside and and jewelry,” said Bob Mitchell, copresi- on vacation through the New Year, and I Merchandise innovation, working clos- outside of stores to empower the custom- dent of the Mitchells Family of Stores. January being a transition period for er with developers to fi ght declining mall er with product and price awareness. “We made the plan for the holiday sea- 6 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 7 WWD.COM

boxing up your gift and sending it back. A lot of stores are eager for this chance to build loyalty and provide a positive experience that builds traffi c and adds to sales.” ShopperTrak is also watching for indications of how quickly — or slowly — consumers redeem their gift cards. Holiday Selling Spikes Late in the Game Martin cited research by CBE Global estimating gift-card sales hit about $124 {Continued from page one} clearances and bringing in spring goods. traffi c, and rationalizing the brick-and- I A later Christmas rush, partly because billion this year, with about $54 billion when they realized there were great There is greater self-purchasing com- mortar footprint in an overstored nation. retailers got better at delivering on time of that in the GAFO categories — gen- deals out there. The truth about the sea- pared to December and a trend toward “We all need to continue to look for down to the wire, and consumers contin- eral merchandise, apparel and acces- son will be known when the quarterly buying familiar replenishment items. and create more compelling gift alterna- ued to play the waiting game in the belief sories, furniture and furnishings and reports come in. The last few days of Business should gain steam in February tives for the consumer as they consider that they will get the best possible deal. other items likely to be found in depart- the season were better for business but as Valentine’s Day approaches. options in electronics and other cat- “Santa Claus came. November was ment stores — that are most critical to everyone was very, very promotional. We Among the biggest upside surprises of egories that may not be the core of the really strong,” said David Zant, presi- holiday spending. were more promotional also. I hope it holiday 2014 was the strong consumer re- business,” said Tony Spring, chairman dent and chief merchandising offi cer of “Even if the stores get some of that gets better next year.” sponse to the buy-online-pick-up-in-store and ceo of Bloomingdale’s. “We were Belk Inc. He said Belk saw sales strength quickly, it’s money they can recognize as Other retailers contacted this past services retailers have been rolling out pleased with the expansion of accesso- from Thanksgiving to the Saturday after revenue that will help their December or weekend sounded less concerned, say- over the past year. ries, candles, some of the luxury catego- Black Friday, then a lull through much of January numbers,” he said. ries, coats and cashmeres, but we need December. But “last Saturday, it just re- ShopperTrak expects overall holiday to continue to look for those businesses ally opened up and carried forward all sales to rise 3.8 percent for the season, The day after Christmas that are more special and gift-oriented week. Week four was very substantial for although its expectations for apparel and was a big one for if we want the customer to think of buy- us. We had an exceptional November and accessories are a bit more modest. Manhattan retailers. ing gifts in department stores. In the we are on plan for December.” “My sense is that when all is said and end, it all comes down to making the Zant added that markdowns are in done, apparel will be a bit better than peo- stores more distinctive. We are pleased line with last year. “We feel very good ple expect,” Martin said. “I think it will be with the progress we’ve made, but we about margins coming out of December.” up more than 2 percent, more like 3 per- know we have more to do next year.” Outerwear, sweaters, fleece, jack- cent, a bit closer to the overall trend.”

Gerald “Jerry” Storch, the incoming ets, vests, active apparel and active Arnold Aronson, partner and manag- Hudson’s Bay Co. ceo, summarized how shoes were bestsellers recently. Zant ing director of retail strategies at Kurt the season tracked for the industry over- also cited Nike, Skechers and Under Salmon, had a somewhat different take. all, saying, “It was a great Black Friday Armour. “Inventories are appropriate “Very few, if any, of the traditional appar- weekend, particularly on the Internet. right now,” he said. el-driven retailers can feel really good Cyber Monday was very strong, then “There was no simple or straight line about their holiday season sales perfor- business hit a trough and retailers and pacing for the business. It tended to go in mance,” he said. “There has been a uni- brands got a little scared. But a week spurts,” said one retail ceo. “There were versal shortage of compelling, knock-out before Christmas it got very strong, good days and bad days and in the end, fashion trends. Multibrand department especially in bricks-and-mortar,” he it was OK. I don’t think the level of pro- and specialty stores have had to rely on added. “Super Saturday was a record motions was that different” from a year maximizing their fashion accessories — handbags, shoes, jewelry, fragrances and home furnishings’’ businesses — to keep their total comps at or above water level.

“Irrespective of lower gas prices and Macy’s is among the industry’s more favorable weather conditions, the most aggressive promoters. Great Middle Class continues to face

SHOPPER PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER SHOPPER PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER SHOPPER PHOTOS BY wage stagnation and has become so price-savvy and selective in their pur- ing margins would be on par or close to savings will wind up having been chan- chasing choices that most retailers have last year’s. They acknowledged being neled into holiday purchases. The fuel been forced into a ‘lowest price of the more vociferous in communicating savings should lift seasonal buying to day’ market share battle that will nega- price cuts, thereby giving the impres- $593 billion, about 3.9 percent higher tively impact gross margin performance,” sion they were more promotional with- than a year ago and better than the 2.9 added Aronson. “But those stores who in- out actually staging more promotions or percent registered last year. vested early and wisely in successfully running steeper markdowns. Still, on Consumer electronics, home improve- developing their omnichannel capabili- Sunday, deep discounting’’ was evident. ment and toys have been the strongest L.L. Bean offered free shipping and categories of merchandise this holiday, up to 50 percent off; Express was up with apparel “still sluggish,” Johnson to 60 percent off; MyHabit was up to 70 said. “We’re in a long strong cycle for We all need to percent off; Rebecca Minkoff, Kenneth footwear, particularly boots, and per- Cole outlets and Barneys New York formance apparel has remained strong were all up to 60 percent off, while Saks and outerwear pretty good. Department continue to look Fifth Avenue’s designer sale offered up stores were challenged this year and I to 70 percent off. think that the overhang on apparel in- for and create more Apparel sales were very soft until ventory is going to take a toll on margins. close to the end of the holiday run, Consumer electronics may have had a compelling gift though outerwear and active/ath-leisure, Crowds came out after strong year, but they don’t have the mar- as well as accessories, boots and jewelry, Christmas to redeem gift cards gins built into them that apparel does.” alternatives for the held up for the most part. and catch clearance sales. CGP’s fi eld staff also noticed a reviv- al of a practice that they hadn’t noticed since the worst days of the recession: a consumer as they Jewelry showed gains this tendency of consumers to “mon- Last Saturday, it just Christmas. Here, Maria Canale’s etize” their returns, taking L consider options in Aster cuff. credits rather than exchang- really opened up and ing returned items for other son. A couple of our stores merchandise. “I think this is electronics and other did better; a couple were a refl ection of the bifurcation carried forward all slightly lower. Total compa- in the U.S. economy,” Johnson categories that may Steep markdowns posed ny was on target. Jewelry is a said. “It’s mostly true for ap- week. Week four was profi t margin concerns. big part of the number. Men’s parel and department stores, not be the core of tailored business was strong, probably because it’s not like very substantial. even in gift-giving.” people won’t return clothes He said Celine handbags were because they’re running out the business Among the biggest concerns: consum- day and the rest of the days leading up to ago. Yet the shopping pattern was differ- the biggest gift and self-purchase of clothes to wear.” — DAVID ZANT, BELK INC. ers showing little interest in most appar- Christmas were strong.” ent, as many consumers took advantage item. Other strong sellers were Loro Bill Martin, found- — TONY SPRING, el categories, too much sameness seen on Storch said Christmas 2014 could have of Black Friday deals offered days before Piana outerwear and sweaters and er of Chicago-based BLOOMINGDALE’S the shelves and the day-to-day unpredict- been the best Christmas for retailers Black Friday itself, and many waited till Brunello Cucinelli accessories ShopperTrak, noted that Other positive trends were evident ability of the retail business. since 2007. “Women’s apparel did come the last moment to shop in hopes of get- and ready-to-wear. Mitchell said the days since Christmas in toys, particularly those related to the Looking to 2015, retailers see a few on stronger, in the end.” ting even better deals. the launch of the company’s Web have seen moderately movie “Frozen”; housewares; top-priced positives, namely lower unemployment, Outlining what made holiday 2014 dis- The ceo also said margins would come site in the beginning of November strong traffi c, with Dec. ties will come out better than the pack luxury goods, with Celine and Brunello and lower fuel costs, which should help tinctive, Storch cited: in on plan. “If stores had been closed a and the reserve-in-store service 26 likely to fi nish as on the net profi t line, even in the face of Cucinelli among the most popular la- gross margins and costs. There will also I Double-digit growth online, most im- couple of days from bad weather, or the “spoke to effi ciency and incremen- either the fifth or low-single-digit comp-store sales.” bels; boots; gift cards; luggage; electron- be continuing double-digit gains in on- portantly as it relates to those with brick- weather been in the 60s for days, or if tal sales.…We are trying to personal- sixth best traffic Apricot Lane, the Vacaville, Calif.- ics including televisions, mobile devices line sales. and-mortar and online operations. there was some catastrophic event, mar- ize the relationship [with the client] day of the year. based apparel and accessories boutique and headphones, and restaurants. Other Among the top challenges for 2015 are: I Store traffi c falling dramatically in gins might have been severely impacted,” electronically.” Other key items were “A lot of traffic chain, tapered off its promotional ca- strong-selling brands were Nike, The I Advancing omnichannel strategies and some cases. he said. Paolo Costagli fl exible wire bracelets L in the stores is com- dence after the Black Friday weekend North Face, Under Armour, Beats and providing additional options for consum- I Higher conversion rates because shop- “As it turned out, we had a good sea- with diamonds. Boots and ing from people return- to avoid being overly promotional from the Xbox One. ers to shop when and where they want. pers are “mission-oriented,” partly due son with midsingle-digit growth pretty Craig Johnson, president of booties were ing goods bought online,” the start of the season, according’’ to ceo ’’ Celine bags sold For the next few weeks, retailers don’t I For online pure plays, launching brick- to pre-shopping online. evenly spread between men’s, women’s Customer Growth Partners, expects that well at Mitchells bestsellers: Martin said. “That’s turn- Melinda Liming. The 76-store chain ran expect major volume, with many people and-mortar formats. I Smartphones being used inside and and jewelry,” said Bob Mitchell, copresi- much of the benefi t from lower gaso- Family of Stores. A Joe’s Jeans ing into a good device to a 12-days-of-Christmas promotion that on vacation through the New Year, and I Merchandise innovation, working clos- outside of stores to empower the custom- dent of the Mitchells Family of Stores. line prices will go to greater gasoline bootie at get people into the stores focused on a single category each day to January being a transition period for er with developers to fi ght declining mall er with product and price awareness. “We made the plan for the holiday sea- consumption, but about $3 billion in Revolve. and it’s a lot easier than {Continued on page 8} 8 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 Holiday Selling Spikes Late in the Game {Continued from page 7} Additionally, the pop-up was less pro- ing and sponsorship director, said the Target as consumers took advantage woo customers into making repeat visits. motional than the Web site, where there center’s guest services desk, staffed with of promotions, free shipping on target. “Once you go the direction of those big- was more older merchandise getting multilingual workers, offers same-day com and buy online, pick up in store. box stores and some of those chains that marked down. deliveries and com- On Dec. 20, the last day of the season- have set the precedent, it’s hard to back “I think the consum- plementary coffee or long offer of free shipping and guaran- off,” Liming said. “Several of our stores er is a little bit smarter A holiday gift set at espresso. teed arrival before Christmas, target. are doing buy-one, get-one-half-off, but I and savvier and is not J.McLaughlin. Conversion rates com experienced double the sales vol- do think we try and save that for toward just shopping Cyber at the Beverly Center ume as Dec. 19, the last day for guar- the end” of the season. Monday — even though are estimated to be anteed arrival during the 2013 holi- Apricot Lane saw sales up 6.5 percent it was our best Cyber higher than last year, day period. In the days leading up to in October, 5 percent in November and Monday ever,” Mente according to Vance, as Christmas, toys and electronics were in is expected to close out December in the said. “Our customers customers continue demand the most. high-single digits, according to Liming. across the board are to research online be- “We sold more toys in stores across Sweaters, fl eece, patterned leggings, shopping more and fore making an in-mall the country on Dec. 24 than we do dur- faux-fur vests and blanket scarfs were spreading things out purchase. According ing many full weeks throughout the hot-selling items. Denim sales were and it makes it a little to Vance, the center rest of the year,” said a Target spokes- lackluster, according to Liming, and more digestible. We has seen a “consistent woman. “Top-selling items and brands party dresses were hit or miss depend- didn’t feel it was Cyber and steady fl ow of traf- included board games, My Little Pony, ing on the store. Monday or bust. There fi c” during the holiday Lego, Nerf and ‘Frozen’ dolls.” The Revolve, the 12-year-old online shop was a little bit less season with technology top-selling electronics products in the selling clothing for men and women, pressure to have one and women’s apparel three days leading up to Christmas were opened a pop-up shop at The Grove in megasale in one day.” top-selling categories. iPads, Beats headphones, Xbox One and Los Angeles. The 2,500-square-foot lo- The trick to being Bloomingdale’s, Playstation 4 systems. cation will stay open through the third competitive is offer- Macy’s, Michael Kors “The fi ve days following Christmas week of January. The storefront started ing better service, said and Victoria’s Secret all are the highest days for gift-card re- out as an exercise in marketing, but the Caruso Affiliated ex- did well at the Beverly demption in the entire year,” the company is considering brick-and-mortar ecutive vice president Center, while the fast- spokeswoman said. After-Christmas possibilities, said Revolve cofounder and of operations Jackie Levy. “More so than fashion wing — consisting of Uniqlo, sales on Friday and Saturday included co-ceo Mike Karanikolas. ever, the way that shopping centers and Forever 21 and H&M — also drew crowds. buy-one, get-one-40-percent-off video “We’re a little smarter about our pro- our properties need to differentiate our- Last-minute shopping was robust at games, 50 percent off clearance toys, 50 motional strategy this year,” he added. selves is service and giving back to peo- “We made sure we had something new ple the gift of time,” Levy said. “There’s and exciting every day. There were less so many choices that people have now [promotions] than previous years. We and especially with the online option.” knew other retailers were planning on Caruso Affi liated doubled its staffi ng this getting more promotional than us. So it season, paying particular attention to the was really important for us to be able to Santa House set ups at The Americana at create excitement.” Brand and The Grove. The company in the past would place Levy said the company’s centers are thousands of items on sale at the same expected to end the year with gift-card time, added Revolve cofounder and sales up 20 percent. Within the luxury co-ceo Michael Mente. This year, the sector, Tiffany & Co. and David Yurman company focused on single categories at Americana at Brand did well. per day instead of everything at once. Susan Vance, Beverly Center market-

Fast-fashion was a bright spot in an otherwise soft apparel climate.

Central London Retailers Trumpet Boxing Day Sales ing at its Oxford Street store at 10:30 the Boxing Day spending. Jace Tyrrell, the U.K.’s Retail Traffi c Index, com- By NINA JONES p.m. on Christmas Day prior to the deputy chief executive of the fi rm, said piled by Ipsos Retail Performance and start of the sale, with 4,000 people in that on Friday morning “high-spending reported in the Observer newspaper LONDON — While plenty of British re- line when the doors opened. The fi rst Chinese, Middle Eastern and Nigerian Sunday, retail traffi c for Boxing Day tailers started offering discounts early products sold in the sale included a shoppers were out in force to be the in the U.K. was down 4.7 percent com- in the holiday season, it turns out that Givenchy Pandora box bag, reduced to fi rst to snap up great offers across lux- pared with the previous year. Boxing Day on Dec. 26 — traditionally 602 pounds, or $936, from 1,205 pounds, ury goods,” he said, noting that inter- But Tim Denison, director of retail the fi rst day of the U.K.’s sales period or $1,873, and a Mary Katrantzou vel- national shoppers “spend on average intelligence at IRP, told the paper that — is still a draw for shoppers in cen- vet sweater, reduced to 1,700 pounds, four times more than a U.K. shopper.” the fi gures were “pleasantly robust,” tral London. or $2,643, from 4,345 pounds, or $6,755. Quoting fi gures from the tax-free shop- in light of the fact that many retailers Department store Selfridges said Selfridges’ Oxford Street unit saw ping fi rm Global Blue, the New West start their sales online on Christmas it had its most successful Boxing Day 160,000 visitors on Boxing Day, while End Co. said Chinese shoppers in the Day. Among stores outside of London, opening in its history Friday, recording its online store recorded 700,000 visi- U.K. spend on average 1,379 pounds, or the Bluewater mall in nearby Kent said sales of more than 2 million pounds, or tors on Christmas Day, up 40 percent $2,143 per transaction, while consum- it had its most successful year of sales $3.1 million, across its bricks-and-mor- from the same day last year. ers from Qatar and UAE spend 1,850 since it opened in 1999, due to a surge of tar and online stores in the fi rst hour of And according to London’s New pounds, or $2,876, and 1,479 pounds, or sales during the Christmas and Boxing its winter sale, which started at 9 a.m. West End Co., which represents retail- $2,299, respectively, per transaction. Day period. Top-selling items included when the store opened. ers on Oxford Street, Bond Street and Across the U.K., the picture was Mulberry handbags, luxury watches and The fi rm said shoppers began queu- Regent Street, tourists were driving more varied. According to fi gures from premium beauty products, the mall said. 8 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 9 WWD.COM

percent off holiday clearance items and 30 percent to 50 percent off all apparel. Men’s retailers reported an upswing Weak Women’s Business Poses Margin Dilemma Holiday Selling Spikes Late in the Game in their post-holiday sales and were op- timistic for 2015. {Continued from page one} “Many retailers offered blanket pro- son with a “decent result.” {Continued from page 7} Additionally, the pop-up was less pro- ing and sponsorship director, said the Target as consumers took advantage “We had a stellar holiday season,” No such hope seems to exist today. motions,” she said, citing Aéropostale Decent, not stellar. woo customers into making repeat visits. motional than the Web site, where there center’s guest services desk, staffed with of promotions, free shipping on target. said Matthew Breen, co-owner and co- Most retailers took a somewhat cau- Inc., Ann Inc., Gap Inc. and Chico’s FAS Aronson noted the middle class still “Once you go the direction of those big- was more older merchandise getting multilingual workers, offers same-day com and buy online, pick up in store. founder of Carson Street Clothiers. tious stance toward inventories as they Inc. And chains with promotions across is feeling pinched and consumers are box stores and some of those chains that marked down. deliveries and com- On Dec. 20, the last day of the season- Breen said sales increased by 25 percent headed into the season — but that only virtually the whole store included gravitating toward tech gadgets. have set the precedent, it’s hard to back “I think the consum- plementary coffee or long offer of free shipping and guaran- and the holiday season represented 15 to limits the downside. Abercrombie & Fitch Co., Express Inc. “That’s the fashion of the moment,” he off,” Liming said. “Several of our stores er is a little bit smarter A holiday gift set at espresso. teed arrival before Christmas, target. 20 percent of annual sales. There’s still plenty of goods that need and L Brands’ Bath & Body Works. said. “It’s a ho-hum kind of a situation. are doing buy-one, get-one-half-off, but I and savvier and is not J.McLaughlin. Conversion rates com experienced double the sales vol- Bestsellers this season were sports to be moved. Meyer’s top stock pick for the holiday There are no real fashion attractions do think we try and save that for toward just shopping Cyber at the Beverly Center ume as Dec. 19, the last day for guar- trousers, outerwear and knits. Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and season was L Brands, which also owns today that would give rise to anything the end” of the season. Monday — even though are estimated to be anteed arrival during the 2013 holi- Rothman’s in New York City also re- chief executive offi cer of Brooks Brothers Victoria’s Secret. close to the dynamic in technology.” Apricot Lane saw sales up 6.5 percent it was our best Cyber higher than last year, day period. In the days leading up to ported a boost in sales. Ken Giddon, said last week, “There is still a lot of in- “During our store checks, the traffi c lev- The holiday struggle to maintain in October, 5 percent in November and Monday ever,” Mente according to Vance, as Christmas, toys and electronics were in president, said business improved as the ventory out there. I don’t think spring is els at Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body margins is part of a longer-term trend is expected to close out December in the said. “Our customers customers continue demand the most. holiday season progressed. “The begin- going to be better. It will be more of the Works were among the best in the mall,” she for retailers. high-single digits, according to Liming. across the board are to research online be- “We sold more toys in stores across ning of the year was solid but we weren’t same for the next few seasons.” said. “We think both brands’ compelling and “When you look back over the past Sweaters, fl eece, patterned leggings, shopping more and fore making an in-mall the country on Dec. 24 than we do dur- breaking records,” he said. “But things Del Vecchio said Brooks Brothers has differentiated product make them standouts couple of years, there are very few retail- faux-fur vests and blanket scarfs were spreading things out purchase. According ing many full weeks throughout the defi nitely got better as the season pro- been more promotional than planned, in a very competitive environment.” ers who are driving merchandise margin hot-selling items. Denim sales were and it makes it a little to Vance, the center rest of the year,” said a Target spokes- gressed. The increase has to do with us but not as promotional lackluster, according to Liming, and more digestible. We has seen a “consistent woman. “Top-selling items and brands doing a pretty good job making noise. We as department stores. party dresses were hit or miss depend- didn’t feel it was Cyber and steady fl ow of traf- included board games, My Little Pony, put in a women’s Olive & Bette’s pop-up A WWD spot check ing on the store. Monday or bust. There fi c” during the holiday Lego, Nerf and ‘Frozen’ dolls.” The shop in the retail store and that brought of inventory positions Revolve, the 12-year-old online shop was a little bit less season with technology top-selling electronics products in the in some traffi c.” headed into the holi- THE INVENTORY PICTURE selling clothing for men and women, pressure to have one and women’s apparel three days leading up to Christmas were Bestsellers at Rothman’s this season day season showed that A SPOT CHECK OF TOP RETAILERS SHOWS THAT MOST TOOK A RELATIVELY CAUTIOUS STANCE opened a pop-up shop at The Grove in megasale in one day.” top-selling categories. iPads, Beats headphones, Xbox One and included outerwear pieces from Colmar many retailers steered a ON INVENTORIES HEADED INTO THE HOLIDAY SEASON. Los Angeles. The 2,500-square-foot lo- The trick to being Bloomingdale’s, Playstation 4 systems. and Corneliani and suits from Without relatively cautious path. cation will stay open through the third competitive is offer- Macy’s, Michael Kors “The fi ve days following Christmas Prejudice. Although there were INVENTORY (IN MILLIONS) REVENUES (IN MILLIONS) week of January. The storefront started ing better service, said and Victoria’s Secret all are the highest days for gift-card re- At J.McLaughlin, which sells men’s some signs of inventory out as an exercise in marketing, but the Caruso Affiliated ex- did well at the Beverly demption in the entire year,” the and women’s, “We had an over 10 gains — for good or for Company End of Third Quarter change versus Third Quarter change versus company is considering brick-and-mortar ecutive vice president Center, while the fast- spokeswoman said. After-Christmas percent comparable store gain in ill. At Nordstrom Inc., a year earlier a year earlier possibilities, said Revolve cofounder and of operations Jackie Levy. “More so than fashion wing — consisting of Uniqlo, sales on Friday and Saturday included December,” said Kevin McLaughlin, co- which has been adding co-ceo Mike Karanikolas. ever, the way that shopping centers and Forever 21 and H&M — also drew crowds. buy-one, get-one-40-percent-off video founder and creative director. For the stores, inventories were NORDSTROM $2,228 24.1% $3,040 8.9% “We’re a little smarter about our pro- our properties need to differentiate our- Last-minute shopping was robust at games, 50 percent off clearance toys, 50 first time, the company ran a before up 24.1 percent at the motional strategy this year,” he added. selves is service and giving back to peo- end of the third quar- CHICO’S FAS $294 10.1% $666 1.5% “We made sure we had something new ple the gift of time,” Levy said. “There’s ter, when sales grew by ANN $331 9.6% $647 -1.7% and exciting every day. There were less so many choices that people have now 8.9 percent. But at Ann [promotions] than previous years. We and especially with the online option.” Inc., where the third- TJX $3,959 8.1% $7,366 5.5% knew other retailers were planning on Caruso Affi liated doubled its staffi ng this quarter came up short getting more promotional than us. So it season, paying particular attention to the of expectations, inven- TARGET $11,066 6.6% $17,732 2.7% was really important for us to be able to Santa House set ups at The Americana at tories were up 9.6 per- create excitement.” Brand and The Grove. cent after sales decline BON-TON $971 6.1% $659 -1.2% The company in the past would place Levy said the company’s centers are of 1.7 percent. thousands of items on sale at the same expected to end the year with gift-card (See accompanying WAL-MART $51,501 3.7% $119,001 2.9% time, added Revolve cofounder and sales up 20 percent. Within the luxury chart for a more com- co-ceo Michael Mente. This year, the sector, Tiffany & Co. and David Yurman plete rundown of in- GAP $2,553 3.3% $3,972 -0.1% company focused on single categories at Americana at Brand did well. ventory levels headed MACY’S $7,789 0.9% $6,195 -1.3% per day instead of everything at once. Susan Vance, Beverly Center market- into the season).

While having more KOHL’S $4,973 0.3% $4,374 -1.6% inventory on hand than Fast-fashion was a bright a year ago could be a NEIMAN MARCUS * $1,274 -1.1% $1,186 5.0% spot in an otherwise soft sign of growth or a bull- apparel climate. ish outlook in a par- GUESS $413 -3.3% $590 -3.9% ticular business, many retailers appear to have L BRANDS $1,485 -9.6% $2,319 6.8%

been caught with too much and have been AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS $469 -9.6% $854 -0.4% forced to cut prices J.C. PENNEY $3,358 -10.4% $2,764 -0.5% deeper than they had planned to move goods. ABERCROMBIE $618 -19.6% $911 -11.8% Price promotions in and of themselves AÉROPOSTALE ’’ $211 -19.8% $453 -12.0% won’t scuttle profits for a retailer, since the SEARS HOLDINGS $6,464 -27.5% $7,207 -12.9% vast majority of stores plan on some promo- SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. * FISCAL FIRST QUARTER SHOWN. tional activity. The problem arises when sales that It’s signifi cant that so many see prod- dollars per square foot higher,” said were planned at 35 percent off before uct as the differentiator and not price. Paul Lejuez, an analyst at Wells Fargo. Victoria’s Secret the season actually become 75 percent But when the rubber meets the road “You’re either getting sales and have to and Forever 21 off to clear goods. and the goods are on the rack, price is sacrifi ce margin or you’re giving up sales were popular While it can be hard from the out- the only lever retailers can pull. to protect margin.” destinations. side to sort out which promotions are “You can’t generate profi ts without And steep promotions don’t have the planned and which aren’t, it’s certainly generating revenues, but the revenue in- oomph they used to. not hard to fi nd a sale this season. creases for most are going to be marginal, “The Black Friday promotions were Thanksgiving promotion, but decided Nomura specialty retail analyst low-single digits,” said Arnold Aronson, kind of ho-hum,” Lejuez said. “They after the holiday to not add any promo- Simeon Siegel has been tracking how pro- tions through the rest of the holiday motions from various retailers compare Central London Retailers Trumpet Boxing Day Sales stretch. “In a strange, counter-intuitive with their discounts from a year earlier. way, it helped us. Customers appreciat- “We noticed a meaningful uptick in There are very few retailers who are ing at its Oxford Street store at 10:30 the Boxing Day spending. Jace Tyrrell, the U.K.’s Retail Traffi c Index, com- ed the fact we had high service, free gift the more promotional bucket as retail- By NINA JONES p.m. on Christmas Day prior to the deputy chief executive of the fi rm, said piled by Ipsos Retail Performance and wrap and a lot of clienteling.” ers made the fi nal push into the holiday driving merchandise margin dollars per start of the sale, with 4,000 people in that on Friday morning “high-spending reported in the Observer newspaper The week before Christmas, 75 per- selling season,” Siegel said last week. LONDON — While plenty of British re- line when the doors opened. The fi rst Chinese, Middle Eastern and Nigerian Sunday, retail traffi c for Boxing Day cent of the store was full price. The week But there are signs that stores also tailers started offering discounts early products sold in the sale included a shoppers were out in force to be the in the U.K. was down 4.7 percent com- after, it was 35 percent. Higher-priced are being strategic. square foot higher. in the holiday season, it turns out that Givenchy Pandora box bag, reduced to fi rst to snap up great offers across lux- pared with the previous year. accessories such as printed cashmere “We also observed many more ‘short- Boxing Day on Dec. 26 — traditionally 602 pounds, or $936, from 1,205 pounds, ury goods,” he said, noting that inter- But Tim Denison, director of retail scarves and cashmere gloves, resort trop- er’ offerings,” Siegel said of the cadence — PAUL LEJUEZ, WELLS FARGO the fi rst day of the U.K.’s sales period or $1,873, and a Mary Katrantzou vel- national shoppers “spend on average intelligence at IRP, told the paper that ical printed Catalina T-shirts, and beach- last week. “Thus far, we believe retail- — is still a draw for shoppers in cen- vet sweater, reduced to 1,700 pounds, four times more than a U.K. shopper.” the fi gures were “pleasantly robust,” related products did best. ers have been using the levers of price managing director of retail strategies started early. If it’s 40 to 50 percent off, tral London. or $2,643, from 4,345 pounds, or $6,755. Quoting fi gures from the tax-free shop- in light of the fact that many retailers “I thought it was heavily promotional and time to attempt to drive traffi c. This at Kurt Salmon. “In order to be able to Who cares? That’s kind of an everyday Department store Selfridges said Selfridges’ Oxford Street unit saw ping fi rm Global Blue, the New West start their sales online on Christmas out there,” McLaughlin said. “When I week focused more on adding incremen- gain whatever advance they can in what thing this year.” it had its most successful Boxing Day 160,000 visitors on Boxing Day, while End Co. said Chinese shoppers in the Day. Among stores outside of London, shopped stores, I thought the pressure tal targeted offerings as retailers pulled is pretty much a zero-sum competitive That only ratchets up the pressure opening in its history Friday, recording its online store recorded 700,000 visi- U.K. spend on average 1,379 pounds, or the Bluewater mall in nearby Kent said on price was tremendous. My takeaway back on the time lever.” season, they’re going to have to promote on retailers slugging it out for a bigger sales of more than 2 million pounds, or tors on Christmas Day, up 40 percent $2,143 per transaction, while consum- it had its most successful year of sales for this season is that you have to have a The general promotional trend has more and they’re going to have to give the piece of the fashion pie. $3.1 million, across its bricks-and-mor- from the same day last year. ers from Qatar and UAE spend 1,850 since it opened in 1999, due to a surge of blend of appropriate markdowns, really held since Black Friday. consumer more reasons to shop.” “It’s harder and harder to control tar and online stores in the fi rst hour of And according to London’s New pounds, or $2,876, and 1,479 pounds, or sales during the Christmas and Boxing interesting, novel gift ideas and a nice Roxanne Meyer, an equity analyst He said that companies that have been your destiny when you’re playing in a its winter sale, which started at 9 a.m. West End Co., which represents retail- $2,299, respectively, per transaction. Day period. Top-selling items included look at spring and resort looking forward.” who covers specialty retailers at UBS, upgrading their technology infrastructure segment that’s very competitive,” Lejuez when the store opened. ers on Oxford Street, Bond Street and Across the U.K., the picture was Mulberry handbags, luxury watches and — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM estimated that 60 percent of the sector and spending so they can take advantage said. “Teen [chains] are a good example The fi rm said shoppers began queu- Regent Street, tourists were driving more varied. According to fi gures from premium beauty products, the mall said. ARNOLD J. KARR, KARI HAMANAKA, she follows was more promotional than of the synergies between their digital and of that. Women’s apparel is a good ex- DAVID YI, HOLLY HABER AND they were a year earlier during the fi rst physical presences could overcome gross ample of that. Department’’ stores are an SHARON EDELSON weekend in December. margin troubles and come out of the sea- example of that.” 10 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014

V.D.: Yes, it might have been a way for him to control everyone. He is manipulative Victoire Bares All enough to do that, but he is a COINCIDING WITH the almost four months per year, we complex character. He is also publication earlier this month lived in the studio — sometimes very kindhearted. We cannot of her memoir, “Et Dior Créa staying until 2 a.m. for rehearsals. say [there was one reason]; it’s Victoire” (“And Dior Created Our contract was quite loose, more complicated than that. Victoire”), the Parisian fashion but we belonged to the designer. muse Victoire Doutreleau Today, everything is WWD: How would you sat down for an interview in completely different. describe your relationship FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE her Saint-Germain-des-Prés with Saint Laurent? apartment that touched on WWD: What’s the WWD.com/eye. V.D.: It was a teenager’s everything from her ménage à story behind the relationship. Yves was 21; it trois with Yves Saint Laurent and “Fouilly-les-Oies” was a way to stay a teenager Pierre Bergé to why she never (“Hicksville”) dress in 1954 that for a little longer — and for me, worked with Richard Avedon (It Dior made you wear? too. We both played parts. We had to do with her breasts). V.D.: I think Christian Dior liked were pretending. She became Christian Dior’s that name “Fouilly-les-Oies” model in the early Fifties, because it reminded him of WWD: Why did you “split” with when Saint Laurent was a Bécassine [a Breton housemaid Saint Laurent and Bergé? young designer at the venerable comic-strip character who V.D.: It was because of a house, a period that gets a lot of wore a peasant dress]. I think Newsweek cover. I had told Yves screen time in the recent “Yves he made me wear it because I wanted to stop modeling. I was Saint Laurent” biopic. At 80, I was a little undisciplined. A young Victoire Doutreleau wiped out. Yves insisted that Doutreleau is dressed head-to- The punishment was the strict, and Christian Dior. I do this shoot, so I posed and toe in Raf Simons for Dior and three-quarter coat buttoned all the issue comes out without my doesn’t miss any of his shows. name although I was the cover In fact, she’d just returned from girl. I expressed my discontent to a Dior catwalk presentation Doutreleau Pierre Bergé. It didn’t go well. in Tokyo. “It was a beautiful at 80. collection,” she says. WWD: How did you reconcile? — LAURE GUILBAULT V.D.: It was 12 years later. In 1975, I was married for the second time, WWD: Should I call you Jeanne with two children. I was living or Victoire? in Switzerland in a house on Victoire Doutreleau: Victoire! the lake. Nadine de Rothschild When Christian Dior hired invited me to a gala she hosted for me, he renamed me Victoire. her husband Edmond’s birthday. Since then, I [had it changed] to I felt like wearing [a YSL] dress, Victoire on my passport. Doutreleau and and I wanted to see them again. I Yves Saint Laurent dialed their number. Pierre Bergé WWD: When you started as a picked up the phone and said: model for Dior at 18, people ‘What do you want?’ ‘A dress.’ He including the saleswomen and the way up that came with that he didn’t want to shoot me long. I couldn’t say anything as said: ‘OK.’ I went to Paris. We had other house’s models weren’t dress. But when you opened it, because I wasn’t his type but it was true.…It wasn’t romantic dinner at l’Orangerie. Then we very nice to you. the dress was very sexy, with that I had the most beautiful between us, rather sexual. It went to their apartment on Rue V.D.: They didn’t like the fact that a large décolleté. Unlike most breasts in the world. Someone lasted three years, on and off. de Babylone after. My husband Christian Dior cared about me. models at that time, I was petite reported it to me. I was young. Yves didn’t know it. He asked and I left at 5 a.m. While this There were rivalries. I looked with big breasts. Carmel Snow, I thought, how insolent of him. me once if Pierre and I were book is on Dior, my next book different. I was anticonformist; I editor of the American edition lovers, but it was many years is on the Yves Saint Laurent didn’t have society’s codes. They of Harper’s Bazaar, coined the WWD: The recent Yves Saint later so there was no point fashion house. I preferred to had them. They were older than “busty look” after seeing me Laurent biopic mentions your telling him then. keep them separate. me; they were 25. We nearly lived in that dress. I didn’t work for relationship with Pierre Bergé. together. Outside collections Harper’s Bazaar because of a V.D.: I was surprised when the WWD: You said the relationship WWD: Does Bergé know about a [seasons], we spent all afternoons photographer there — Richard ﬁ lm came out because I had could have been a “sly” move second tome in the pipeline?

in the [fashion] house. And Avedon, who irked me. He said hidden that relationship for so on Bergé’s part. V.D.: Yes, he told me he trusted me. JACK GAROFALO/ADAGP YSL BY MARK SHAW; DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE; DIOR BY BY PORTRAIT DOUTRELEAU

“We wanted a colorless restaurant. There are beiges, raws, whites,” says Piège. “It is more of a work on materials Close-up on Clover — wood, raku, velvet, etcetera.” The colors, rather, are in the dishes that look IT IS THE STUFF of public relations And fashion loves Piège back. Thoumieux like paintings made for the Instagram age fairy tales. Jean-François and Élodie already has a number of fashion designers, — no surprise, since both Jean-François Piège met when he was chef at Paris’ executives and writers among its clientele. and Élodie are keen Instagrammers. Hôtel de Crillon and she was its Clover, though, came out of a desire There is rainbow-hued cabbage leaves communications director. There they to open an eatery together as a couple. with herring and crushed chestnuts; white fell in love and now they’ve welcomed “My job is image, communications, fi sh wrapped in a violet turnip ribbon and their fi rstborn: a restaurant. but I wanted to share a concrete project seeped in yellow nasturtium juice, and Called Clover, it’s an intimate eatery with him, something tangible,” Élodie duck pie served with frisée. For dessert in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district says. “Élodie bought it, [when] I hadn’t there’s jumbo banana squash and sweet- with just 10 tables for two. The seen it. I trusted her. I would pass grass ice cream with a honey fl avor. A pocket-size, 430-square-foot by at night to try to see through warm, melting chocolate-chip cookie — Jean-François Piège

restaurant includes a kitchen the window with my phone,” her that Piège describes as “bloody” — is an DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE PHOTOS BY fully integrated into the dining husband replies. room. The place opened quietly The food at Clover is ultimate curtain-closer. Starting next year, earlier this month and already is “anchored in French tradition Scallop crackers with plans include selling lunch take-out in a one of the hardest gets in town. with contemporary techniques spices on granite stones. limited number via social media. “It’s an adventure, the fi rst and feeling,” Piège continues. At a time when French chefs are globe- time we are at home and 100 This translates into highly visual trotting (both Joël Robuchon and Anne- percent owners,” he says. and tasty dishes, starting with Sophie Pic are set to open restaurants in At 44, Piège is already a star hors d’oeuvres such as the quinoa New York in 2015, for instance), would the in France. He was at the Plaza crust with eggplant, and satay and Pièges try their luck in America? Athénée and is chef and a co- edible clovers — as a nod to the “In fi ve years,” says Élodie. “In another owner of the successful Thoumieux restaurant’s name. life, I was born American. I have always restaurant, brasserie and — since “Clover has been Jean- thought I would end my life there, in last year — bakery. He is in his François’ lucky charm for many California. I am very sensitive to the sixth season of the Gallic version years. It sounds better than the climate. I am from Toulouse [in southwest of “Top Chef ” and has worked in kitchens French word ‘trèfl e.’ It sounds like lover,” France]. In my dreams, I see ourselves with the world’s most starred chefs, Élodie says with a laugh. “We wanted a living there in 10 or 15 years from now.” including Bruno Cirino, Christian Constant space that refl ects who we are.” “Before that!” counters Jean- and Alain Ducasse. He’s an admirer of The couple spent a year sourcing François. — L.G. fashion and counts among his friends materials: ceramics from Venice, Calif.; Alber Elbaz, artistic director at Lanvin pottery from Vermont for the tableware; 5 Rue Perronet, 75007 — whose suits he wears (he also is fond raku tiles from Japan for the walls and Tel.: +33-1-75-50-00-05 of Christian Louboutin and owns dozens rattanlike chairs from Sweden. The Open Tuesday to Saturday. Lunch from of the brand’s loafers) — and Mathias decor created with Charlotte Biltgen, a 12:15 p.m. and dinner from 7:30 p.m. Augustyniak, artistic director at M/M, who young designer behind Paris’ hip sports [email protected] created logos for Thoumieux and Clover. club Kay club, has a neutral color palette. jeanfrancoispiege.com WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 11 WWD.COM JUST HEAVENLY: Costume National creative Marina is a dream! She is a magic woman, director Ennio Capasa and Marina Abramovic a great friend and a unique artist, with FASHION SCOOPS are joining forces for her performance profound human insight and sensitivity.” at The Art of Elysium’s annual “Heaven” — ALESSANDRA TURRA AND gala. For the past six months, the pair have ROSEMARY FEITELBERG A QUESTION OF LUXURY: This spring, at its gym and spa. As of earlier this been dreaming up designs that will be used London’s Victoria & Albert Museum month, the hotel’s female gym and spa throughout the evening by attendees as SHOWTIME: Forty works will be brought will put luxury under the spotlight, staff have been sporting two different part of an interactive artistic experience. together for an exhibition on Jean Cocteau with an exhibition called “What is styles of dresses by the label — one Guests will also get a glimpse of the that is to run at the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Luxury?” in collaboration with the is a zip-front polo style and the other label’s pre-fall collection Laurent Foundation in Paris British Craft Council. The show, which a racer-back style with a striped rib during the event, thanks Portrait of Paul from Jan. 20 to Feb. 7. opens April 25 and runs through to trim around the waist. to a cadre of models who Éluard, 1942. Called “Jean Cocteau, une Sept. 27, will span 100 objects, with “I received an e-mail from Hotel will be in the mix. This donation américaine — Robert items running from a laser-cut couture Costes asking whether we’d like to year’s gala will presumably Rubin,” it culls pieces owned dress by Iris van Herpen to a necklace by dress their gym and spa staff, and I have no shortage of bold- by Rubin, an art historian and Nora Fok made from hand-knitted nylon immediately thought it was a great fi t,” faced names, since the host collector of contemporary bubbles. There committee includes James art and design. These are also more Franco, Shepard Fairey, Kirsten include a collage from 1926, esoteric exhibits Monreal London Dunst, Cameron Silver and Eva a portrait of Paul Éluard, to represent will dress the Mendes, among others. plus photographs of Cocteau luxury, such staff of the Longtime friends by Berenice Abbott, Walter as “Time for Hotel Costes. Abramovic and Capasa, Limot and Cecil Beaton. Yourself,” a tool who fi rst met through The pieces were all kit that includes Costume National fan presented at a Cocteau items such as Willem Dafoe, have been COMITÉ COCTEAU PHOTO BY retrospective at Paris’ Centre a watch with eager to join forces for a while. Pompidou in 2003 and will be housed next at no dial and a “I was eagerly awaiting the right moment the Maison Jean Cocteau (the artist’s former compass that to work with Ennio and Costume National,” home) in Milly-la-Forêt, France. spins to random Abramovic said. “The genius of his aesthetic Bergé penned the preface of the coordinates. resides in his deep understanding of human show’s catalogue. The show will forms and the fl ow of energy that fuels the Concurrent to the foundation exhibit be co-curated creative process. Ennio and I do different will be another at Paris gallery Coullaud by Leanne things, but somehow we manage to connect & Koulinsky that highlights Cocteau’s Wierzba and Jana with people in the same way.” infl uence on contemporary artists. Scholze, who Capasa said, “Collaborating with — JENNIFER WEIL have uncovered luxury items that run from the OBITUARY conventional to the surprising. Alongside an Developer Jean-Louis Solal, 86 Hermès Talaris saddle and glassware by Philippe Malouin for Lobmeyr, there is Stefanï Grosse, Monreal London’s founder Christmas cards, which featured his twin a diamond made from roadkill and a and creative director, said. “There is By SHARON EDELSON daughters as they grew into adulthood. I vending machine stocked with DNA by something undeniably Parisian and am saddened to learn of his passing and U.S. artist Gabriel Barcia-Colombo. “As its very sexy about the Hotel Costes, it’s RETIRED FRENCH developer Jean- my thoughts are with his family. The in- title suggests, the exhibition always in style and has stood Louis Solal, considered the father of ternational shopping center industry lost questions the very idea of FOR MORE the test of time, when many the European shopping mall, died on one of its best.” luxury today,” said Scholze. SCOOPS, SEE other scene-y places haven’t Christmas Day at 86. The cause of death Solal tried to give each of his centers “It will challenge common lasted. It’s a modern classic.” was not available at press time. a distinct point of view, carefully choos- interpretations of luxury, WWD.com. Monreal London was Solal was a longtime trustee of the ing tenants and introducing innovative invite close examination launched by Grosse in 2012 International Council of Shopping design elements; there were no cookie- of luxury production and to bridge the gap between Centers and helped expand the associa- cutter malls for him. He was an early extend ideas of what luxury can be.” sport and style, and has its roots tion’s global reach. proponent of marketing, before malls — SARA MCALPINE in tennis gear, but its lineup includes Solal, who was educated in the U.S. began running advertising campaigns. designs that cross over into other and trained by early American mall de- Food, either restaurants or hypermar- GOING BRITISH: Hotel Costes, the activewear categories. The label is velopers, returned to France in 1969 kets, often fi gured into the retail mix of moody, low-lit Parisian hotel, has stocked by retailers including Net-a- where he developed the first North his centers. And in an effort to connect tapped the British activewear label porter, Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods. American-style mall in Europe, Parly his centers to their communities, he Monreal London to dress the staff — JULIA NEEL 2, in Paris’ western suburbs. During his named the developments after the cities career, he developed more than 12 retail they were located in, such as Rosny and projects throughout France as well as Elysée, adding the number ‘2’ at the end. shopping centers in Spain and Belgium. Solal in 1983 cofounded the French The success of his early projects had national shopping council, the Conseil much to do with how he capitalized on National des Centres Commerciaux of MEMO PAD the same post-World War II trends that France, for the purpose of bringing com- led to the rise of shopping centers in the petitors together to discuss common is- U.S., such as the increase in car owner- sues, an idea that didn’t exist at the time. ship, the baby boom and the creation of His last major project was Diagonal Mar housing in the suburbs. Centre, a 936,460-square-foot retail and en- Solal called the shopping center “the tertainment center in Barcelona, which he child of love,” born of man’s obsession codeveloped with Houston-based Hines. with his car. “Jean Luis Solal was not only the “Jean-Louis Solal was a fi ne gentle- acknowledged leading pioneer of the man and an excellent developer,” said European shopping center industry, he Alfred Taubman, the developer of early was very much a founding father of the malls in the U.S., who built Taubman global industry — a teacher, a tireless Centers into a luxury powerhouse. “He mentor, and a true friend in every way,” had a great mind and was a friend of said Michael P. Kercheval, ICSC’s presi- mine for over 40 years. It was always a dent and chief executive offi cer. “Our pleasure to be with him and I looked hearts go out to his family and to every- forward each year to receiving his warm one whose lives he touched.” Takashimaya Profi ts Rise 22.8% TOKYO — Takashimaya said Friday that revenue growth of 1.1 percent for 655.5 net profi t for the nine months ended billion yen, or $6.26 billion. Nov. 30 rose 22.8 percent year-over-year. The company left unchanged its guid- The retailer attributed the growth to ance for the fi scal year ending Feb. 28. higher sales at its department stores, as It expects net profi t to grow by 14.9 per- Ralph Lauren’s spring ad campaign. well as to onetime payments from the cent to 21.5 billion yen, or $178.6 million selling off of fi xed assets. at current exchange. Takashimaya is Net profi t for the period totaled 13.03 predicting a 10 percent rise in operating HUMP DAY: Ralph Lauren cast a herd of aside from Vloet, who is clad in a billion yen, or $124.5 million at average profi t, to 32 billion yen, or $265.9 million. beach beauties — fi ve camels and tentlike safari gown to match the exchange. The department store operator fore- new face Sanne Vloet — for his spring seaside glamping scene, as the group Operating profit grew 8.3 percent casts annual revenue growth of 1.3 percent, campaign shot by Bruce Weber. The exudes oceanfront glamour under an to 17.84 billion yen, or $170.38 million. for a total of 916 billion yen, or $7.6 billion. models all sport colorful harnesses, Arabian-style tent. — JESSICA IREDALE Takashimaya reported year-over-year — KELLY WETHERILLE 12 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2014 WWD.COM WWD: What is the secret to living such a WWD: What is the secret to good design? Adolfo: Sometimes. I always watch women Q&A gratifying life? Adolfo: I think good taste. Good taste is in churches. There are some people who Adolfo: If I know someone and like necessary. Then you can do anything you look very well and some people look not someone, I am very open and easy. If I want to. Now, everything is sort of splash as well. Today there are not really any don’t like the person, I walk away. I don’t and change. I used to dress Jennifer trends that I like. I respect all the things mean to be cold or distant. I just don’t Jones, Claudette Colbert was a great, that designers do but I am not in their like to be insincere. Why should I tell great friend. league. They are better than I am. Adolfo you how marvelous you are or how much I like you? It’s best not to say anything. WWD: Do you follow fashion? WWD: Who are some of your By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Adolfo: I look at Women’s Wear every single favorite designers? WWD: You were born outside of Havana. day. I like Vogue, Architectural Digest and Adolfo: I think Diane von Furstenberg IN THE 23 YEARS since he shuttered Have you ever returned after leaving as Vanity Fair. Frankly, I am a good person is a magician. She knows exactly what his tony East 57th Street salon, Adolfo a teenager? to admire other people’s work, but I a woman wants, and isn’t that enough? has quietly gone about his days, reading Adolfo: I have never gone back to Cuba don’t understand it. Fashion now is very And she has good taste. Mr. Lauren heartily, watching HBO, Cinemax and but our house’s property is still insured. different from the way it used to be. The makes the most beautiful clothes for “Downton Abbey,” pitching in at his But I don’t like how the system is with ladies that I used to see like Mrs. Paley men and women. Season after season Upper East Side parish and occasionally Mr. Castro. I was 17 when I left Cuba. My and Mrs. Reagan used to inspire you to do he makes the most elegant evening catching up with friends at Swifty’s. All mother died in childbirth so I was raised things. Today, I fi nd that if I were to be in dresses. They are just to die for. And the while, his namesake business has by my aunt, Maria Lopez. My godfather fashion it would be very diffi cult to be in Carolina Herrera of course. She developed into an international one with died in 1958 and my aunt died in 1961. I that surrounding... I was always inspired has a great style because she knows new jeans and furs deals in the works could not go back to Cuba then because by the people I knew. Maybe something exactly what to do to herself and then and further expansion in Asia planned. Castro had closed off the country. It was they had might be something I would she presents that to the public. She’s However adverse Adolfo is to very upsetting really. make a combination of. I would start to marvelous. I don’t know how she can do publicity (longtime clients still can bank do something and they might say what it because she is always going here and on his discretion), the designer recently they are interested in. It may work as there traveling back and forth, and she agreed, with some persuading, to an a combination of things. It’s a strange always looks perfect. I like everything interview. Unfailingly modest, he told way of doing things. about her. I think she is sensational. WWD, “I can’t imagine you would be interested in anything I have to say.” WWD: Now there is more marketing WWD: Do you follow any of the Adolfo, of course, has a good deal to about what a designer likes — what younger designers? say not only about his storied career but type of architecture, hotels, food… Adolfo: Who is the one that went to also the current state of fashion. Casually Adolfo: Yes, that’s exactly it. I Balenciaga? Alexander Wang? I think he dressed in jeans, a navy polo shirt and understand it’s a totally different is very clever. There is another one who cashmere sweater from Ralph Lauren philosophy, which I approve of and has a shop here on Madison Avenue — and black clogs, the designer described morally understand, but I don’t like to Derek Lam. decades-old snapshots from his career be part of that. I am not like that…It’s with what seemed to be automatic recall. very interesting but I don’t understand WWD: Why did you retire? A gold watch on one wrist and a black it. It’s a new life, a new system. It’s Adolfo: It was a very diffi cult time. A rubber magnetic sports band on the other not in relation to the things I used to friend of mine, Edward Perry, was very seem to symbolize his dichotomous life. have in my mind. I was focused on the sick. I could not cope with being at work Decades after he dressed style icons like design, ambience or way of living. The and coming home. I knew that sooner or Babe Paley, C.Z. Guest, Nan Kempner, Pat way people live is so different now. later I was going to retire so why not do Buckley and First Lady Nancy Reagan, Every six months life changes. it then? Six months later my friend died. the designer still guards their privacy, He used to have his own apartment here explaining simply, “I don’t like to gossip. on the other side because he liked to I don’t think that’s necessary.” Nancy Reagan have his own space. Not about to talk numbers, his in 1980 in an He had a nurse but it was throat business currently is a $55 million Adolfo skirt. cancer which is very diffi cult. one with men’s accounting for about 80 percent of that fi gure, according to WWD: How did you meet? Adolfo License Group chairman Paul Adolfo: A friend of his asked me to lunch Wattenberg. At its peak in the Eighties, and Edward was there. At the time, I was sales were closer to $87 million, due very young and making hats. Edward partially to a robust couture business asked, “What do you do?” and I said, and Saks Fifth Avenue concept shops. Adolfo “Well, I’m a milliner, which sounds like ‘a Needless to say, much has changed FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE millionaire.’” And he said, “Oh how nice, since Julia Koch, who was then new THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY I am too.” Of course he thought that I was to New York, ran his East 57th Street WWD: What do you make of WWD.com/ a millionaire and he was a millionaire. boutique. Through a new licensing deal the recent changes? retail-news. with Dream Jeans, men’s and boys’ jeans Adolfo: I hope everything WWD: What was the Duchess of launch next month with women’s jeans works out, but at the moment I think Windsor like? to follow. Shearling, fur and fur-trimmed we have to sit and wait and see what Adolfo: She was a great friend of my coats are in the works, thanks to a new happens. I know this will take time. It’s aunt’s. She was a great help in my deal with Grecophilia Furs. And with not going to be one, two, three. career. I liked her immensely. Like distribution in about seven countries and everyone else that you meet, you have the Caribbean, a major distribution deal WWD: Is it true that you and Luis Estevez your own opinion about how you feel for China, Japan and Korea is close to went to the same Jesuit school in Havana? about them. I loved her. She was really fruition that would include wholesaling Adolfo: I was in the second grade, he was the best. I had met her in Havana and and opening freestanding stores. in the sixth grade and I used to see him when I came to New York and fi rst Nimble, not exactly an everyday in the schoolyard at midday. We knew had a little shop at 22 East 56th Street, description for someone at 81, Adolfo each other very well, but when I came she asked if I wanted to make some occasionally sprang around his Old to New York, it was a different kind of dresses for her. I said yes, of course. Masters-adorned living room. After a atmosphere. He was very pleasant and WWD: How was it that you started as a They were of course successful. She photographer admired a Van Wyck, Adolfo very successful...He was the beginning of milliner, worked in Paris at Balenciaga, used to always say to me, “Now look said it was a favorite but blanched when a new era of designers — like Bill Blass, moved to New York and launched your here Adolfo….Then she introduced me asked to pose beside it. (Adhering to Oscar [de la Renta], Geoffrey Beene, ready-to-wear business in 1961? to Mrs. Paley who became one of my misguided advice from an attorney who [Arnold] Scaasi, myself — which actually Adolfo: Bill Blass really was the one who friends. And Mrs. Paley introduced me insisted Roman Abramovich planned to is beginning to disappear. Unfortunately, helped me. He said, “Why don’t you go to Mrs. Bloomingdale. buy the Fifth Avenue building where he Oscar passed away — he was just the into business on your own and I will give lives, the designer began to downsize and best friend. He was truly very nice. you some money?” Then I paid him back WWD: And Mrs. Reagan and C.Z. Guest? agreed to let Doyle New York auction in six months. Bill was really the best. He Adolfo: I used to go to her offi ce on the some of his collection. The October sale WWD: Were you at Oscar’s funeral? had a very sophisticated, glamorous life second fl oor. Sometimes she would tallied $537,000 for 150 lots — but the real Adolfo: Oh yes, but I sat in the back off to but he knew how to have two sides of his ask me for lunch and sometimes Jerry estate deal had fallen through months the side, away from all the people. It was personality. He had a beautiful house in Zipkin. We never discussed anything before. “Can you imagine?” Adolfo said a beautiful funeral...I told my secretary, Connecticut and he loved to read. When astrological. I read in the newspapers shaking his head. my lawyer and everybody, “Look, when he would go to London or I would go to but I didn’t know anything about that. Anchored as he once was in New York’s I die, there is little chapel on the side London, we would get books. We would say, C.Z. really was such a great lady and fashion scene, Adolfo preferred to sit far of St. Vincent [Ferrer]. I would like to “Oh, how did you get that?” I like to read a wonderful friend, so is her daughter away from all the bold-faced names at his have a little mass there, no music and no anything — biographies, novels. In London, Cornelia. My aunt knew C.Z. from Paris. friend Oscar de la Renta’s funeral last conversation, just a regular mass.” I stay at the Ritz in Picadilly so I can go to After she was married in Cuba [at month. But Adolfo was not the least bit Hatchards in the daytime and then if I’m Ernest Hemingway’s Havana home in removed during the interview, assessing WWD: But you don’t think about that, do you? walking around at night, I go to Waterstones. 1947], my aunt and uncle had a luncheon designers’ talent, speaking of his native Adolfo: No, but you know eventually party for them in Varadero. Cuba, mentioning his own requiem plans something could happen. But not quite yet. WWD: Will you write a book about your life? and impersonating the Duchess of Windsor Adolfo: I have always been very lax about WWD: Why do you think you got along so — of course fondly. Asked what he hopes WWD: Is it strange to be known by doing things about myself. I am always well with so many strong-minded women? people associate with his name, Adolfo one name? Now there is Madonna, very interested in what you’re doing Adolfo: I just enjoyed them. I never felt in said, “If they remember me, they probably Rihanna, Prince — you were so far more than what I’m doing. my whole career that I was an important think I’m crazy because I never really ahead of that trend. person. I have always felt you are more followed the rules. I was very independent, Adolfo: My name is Adolfo Faustino WWD: The chair you watch television in important, I am not important. I never not really independent, I mean free — free Sardinia. I think Adolfo is easier....I faces Fifth Avenue. Do you ever watch had a competition with the person I was to do what you want to do.” would rather see Adolfo and that’s all. women as they pass by? with because sincerely I wasn’t.