I N V E R E S K

P A R I S H L O R E

FR OM

PA G A N T I M E S .

‘ I N S TI R L G . R M D . .

M U S S E L B U R G H

B L A R . P R I N T E D B Y T. C . I

I N T R O D U C T I O N .

' TH E s tory of bygone times in s mall com munities a fiords a n dm a b s o m s c s ms a n d s c a ir le in ight int the anner , u to , o ial

the c s o condition of S otti h pe ple.

A s t udy of thes e old- world wa ys a s they exis ted at

I n s k has d d m ch d h to the u a n d vere yiel e u elig t a thor, in res pons e to frequent invitations he n ow offers s ome of the fruit he ha s ga thered a s a contribution to local h s n ot w hou o h s m a fin d i tory, it t h pe t at other y in it

m of s a n d s he ha s c d s o e the intere t plea ure experien e . Acces s to Paris h a n d Burgh Records has enabled him o mbod m f c s b f s h d a n d t e y any a t never e ore publi e , an endeavour ha s been made to convey an idea of how

a valu a ble thes e Records re. I n the com pilation of the pres ent work numerous a nd

’ s carce p ublications in the Advocates a n d other libraries

b co s d a n d ma k d c mm c d have een n ulte , infor tion in ly o uni ate b s f i ds is f ck w d d y per onal r en here grate ully a no le ge . T S C O N T E N .

E C HAPT R .

I o o a ca . T p gr phi l ,

II s o c . Prehi t ri ,

om of o m a n s III . C ing the R ,

I V om a n s . A fter the R

V cs of om a s . Reli the R n ,

’ V I S t f I s . . c a s o Mi h el nvere k ,

V I I m of a a c a n d u c . Ti e W ll e Br e ,

V Da w of o m a o III . n the Ref r ti n,

io od . o ma r IX . Ref r t n Pe i ,

X in s of Ada m o r . . M i t y Mr C lt,

Old om m u n o XI . C i n

S n u co ds eventeenth Ce t ry Re r ,

is nc —XV II a a . u XIII . P r h Fin e Cent ry ,

X V o I . s of V u Cl e X II . Cent ry ,

V V n X . O ofX . u pening III Ce t ry ,

G oom ol ow d Su n s n l f l e by hi e ,

in is of Dr a M try . C rlyle,

The P ms en t a is u c P r h Ch r h ,

’ ’ B id s s s Dr. ood s a n d . ever e XIX . M ie Mr g Mini trie ,

XX m o a E s . Me r ble vent ,

Dis u s d a s o s XXI . ting i he P ri hi ner ,

sc a n a Mi ell e , I L L S T R A T I U O N S .

GE PA . a f o — a Portr it o A u th r F ci n g title pa ge . — om m u n on o n 1727 a c of a C i T ke , B k title p ge

’ l h s s — O d S t. c a In a c a . I Mi el , vere k F ing Ch p . From Or na Wa er Co our Dra w n ak en in 1803 the proper igi l t l i g t , ty

of m ra of he F ee ir ex M n t S . e Ba r G . . B . C . Ad i l l t, Al il , t ,

om n 1 4 1~ a c of a 4 . m u n on o 8 a v C i T ke , B k ltern ti e

a title p ge .

5 I n v s u rc 18 5— V . 0 8 . . w ere k Ch h , W ie ,

6 O d s n u e oo 1651 . l e t Mi t B k , ,

n o G en e a Sir Wm o 7 . us . a t Pi kie H e, r l H pe, B r ,

8 Fa c - s m a - a Accou n oo 1655 . i ile h lf p ge t B k , ,

9 R v d m e . a o . . A C lt , M . A ,

From Portra J a m es on a t Ga rts herrie Hou s e it by .

I n s ou s J a Es vere k H e, . A . P rk , q . ,

11 Old om m u n o a . a s a n d co ds C i n Pl te , Ch rter Che t Re r ,

12 s of Ea rl of Du n m - a 11 . Cre t fer line P ge 7 ,

m o a S on a r w u n Me ri l t e , C rber y Hill , here Q ee

a s u nd d to con d a Lo ds M ry rre ere the fe er te r ,

on u m n of a m Sm ow M e t Willi yth , T n Clerk , on e Bu r e 1805 Recovere 1894 St i d , d .

15 v d R e . a a D D . e . Alex n r C rlyle , . ,

6 En d S u 1 . s s s u We t High treet , M elb rgh ,

how n r old hous e in wh ch Com m ss on er Ca rdon n e ec v S i ,g i i i l r ei ed

m o e the Nove s n ow rem ove S ll tt li t, d .

S c m n s of New om m u o a pe i e C ni n Pl te,

8 of Ol Fs No d 1 . d ow S S Bit i herr , rth i e , High treet ,

e now occu e w h m o ern n m en Sit pi d it d te e t.

Gl h a p t e r I .

T O P O G R A P H I C A L .

NVERE SK is an ancient and historic parish in

- - the north east of the county of Mid Lothian . f f The burgh o Musselburgh forms part o it . Until early in the eighteenth century it wa s

I n n era s k ~ called and Musselburgh , but this con u n t j c designation has since then been dropped . The parish is about three miles from north to

a - south , and from two to two and half from east of to west . Its northern boundary is the shore the Firth of Forth from R a ven s ha u gh burn on the east to Magdalen burn on the west . The

of Du ddin s ton parishes g , Newton , and Liberton in

- on Mid Lothian adjoin it the west , Dalkeith and

Cra n s tou n on in the same county the south , and Tranent and Prestonpans in Haddingtonshire on the east . The Esk divides the parish into two nearly equal parts from south to north , and empties itself here into the Firth . The name Inveresk is significant of s that position , and in it elf contains evidence f o antiquity . With a like geographical meaning s - h imilar compound place names are common enoug , A 2 INV ERESK PAR ISH LORE .

n but few indeed can tell as much as this o e does .

Eek ou t of r old V comes a ve y stock . ariations of U x it are found in Ax , Ex , Ox , , Ouse , Uisque , of Usk , Esce , all meaning water, and in many these forms it is applied to rivers in Great f . o Britain Such root words , descriptive the f o i. e. natural features a country, , rivers, mountains and the like , cling with firm hold in common of o speech , while names given to places ab de are more subject to change when people of a different t of language become occupants . The impor ance word study is coming more and more to be re

The f cognised . very form o the word Inveresk helps to discover its history . It has been found that in words in u s e in Celtic times the descriptive part comes after the root portion ; in those of v Anglic or Saxon origin the re erse holds good . We are thus enabled to fix the period to which“ to of Inveresk belongs , and to trace it the time

n Es cem u the w the A gles . , the name by hich the

of n u earliest the Saxon invaders knew it, is km o h . Es u t questionably Celtic Esk , , Carberry (Ca erba rren ) have come down from the aboriginal

Britons whom the Romans encountered . According to on of - n a recent writer the subject place ames, “ Musselburgh in its original form , signified the ” of fenced town the Picts . When thus examined , of the names parish and burgh are , in themselves , charters of an antiquity su fficiently remote to 3 TOPOGRAPHY .

gratify the most exacting, and with which parish f ouer and burgess may feel proudly content . As an example of the intuitive or traditional hold which successive generations retain of the of original meaning a very old word , it may be mentioned that no thing was more common half - a century a go than to hear people in the parish “ speak of the Esk a s the watter Nor was this a mere localism , as the writer thus discovered . When a small boy he enjoyed a jaunt to a pretty d Tweedsi e Town . On asking for some water , the

‘ Wa eter- s request was met with the query , fl wa ter or ” - s ? to or well wa ter That is say , was river water pump water, water to wash in or water to drink

? e - e wanted River water was thus w eter w eter, where the wa eter was said to wax and to wane ; a n d the same root idea was presented to the mind within sight of the Cheviots on the banks of the Tweed as within sight of the Pentlands on the banks of the Esk . To return to descriptive details , it may be pointed out that at the confluence of the of Esk with the estuary , the Firth Forth reaches its

u n d most so therly limit a its greatest width. The distance across is more than three times what it is

w a n d bet een Granton and Burntisland , fully eight times greater than where the Forth Bridge joins

the two shores . What secondary causes have com bin ed to scoop ou t the large elliptical bay that d extends from Houn Point to Gullane , is a 4 I NV ER E SK PAR ISH LORE .

f subject beyond the scope o this work . That glacial action had some share in the work , the presence of huge boulders upon the foreshore indicates . Whatever forces were employed , the

u - Esk must have proved a co nter active . The tend ency of rivers is to accumulate the s oil they bear seawards near their mouths , and to cause the land

n to encroach o the sea . The present influence of the stream affords no index of the power it

of its formerly had , and gives but a faint idea d energy when it ran a broa , deep and rapid river before its sources were impounded for district supply . The bay of Musselburgh furnishes shelter and good anchorage , and is much frequented by shipping when a storm rages in the North Sea or an easterly gale drives up the Firth . The surface of the parish next the coast a n d

is to near the river comparatively flat , but rises 514 an elevation of feet at Carberry Hill . Next the shore is the burghal portion which competent authorities consider to be an upraised sea level .

the It is fan shaped , the pivot point being at

For parish church . a considerable dista nce along of the beach on either side of the mouth the Esk ,

n u there is extensive links , which in E gland wo ld

n be called dow s . Dr. Carlyle writes in his article upon the parish in Sir John Sinclair’ s Statistical of Account Scotland , that every burgess of Mussel

V E O 6 I N ER S K PARISH L RE .

Lines in Scotland , by the late Mr. David Milne of old Home , we find the following notice the sea “ to : n margin just referred At Musselburgh , a ba k

or J more less steep , can be traced from oppa , south of o Port bello , crossing Magdalene Burn , New Hailes of policy , the river Esk , the fields north Inveresk

Chu rch u a , the gro nds of Inveresk House , e stward by Pinkie Burn , and as far as Drummore Lodge at the east end of Musselburgh Links . The base of the bank is about 28 feet above high water . At

.

Newbigging, the bank is distant about one and

- a half miles from the existing shore . It is cut

Es k through by the Magdalene Burn , the river and h also by Pinkie Burn . T is bank is in the boulder clay . It seems probable that , when the sea stood of 28 at the above level feet , the river Esk did

the of not follow its present course to sea, west

n ow Inveresk Church, where there is a vertical

ff. cli If that passage near Monkton village , Monk ton ha ll , were blocked , a great lake would be formed , whose west margin would coincide with the long

of n Ca m - en d ridge gravel running orth from p ,

Ke im end of l properly , and the overflow the ake would be by the small valley at Pinkie Burn ” of situated to the east Inveresk .

Elsewhere , in the same volume , Mr. Milne Home shows how closely the height above high water of this bank at Inveresk approximates to similar

on of levels at other points the shore the Firth , and TOPOGRAPHY . 7 gives reasons for concluding that the present re du ced area and lower level of the estuary had been

f n reached before the time o the Roman occupatio . The soil of the parish ranges from light sandy loam to heavy and clayey land . It is generally fertile and productive, and is highly cultivated . The most approved methods of modern husbandry a re of followed, and the implements employed are the most recent construction . Dr. Carlyle , the Parish Minister of Inveresk during nearly the whole of the latter half of last century , may be claimed to ha vpbeen the first to give an im petus to the im provement which has since made steady progress .

’ Down to the doctor s time the heavy lumbering ox

u s plough contin ed to be u ed , and required not only a ploughm a n but a driver to man age the yoke . An ingenious blacksmith in Dalkeith having con structed on e of an improved type whi ch a pair of

h . horses could draw and a single man andle , Dr

Carlyle was shrewd enough to perceive its value , and at once employed it upon a farm he held . His f . . o neighbour , the Rev Dr Grieve Dalkeith , did the same . The farmers round about laughed at this departure from use and wont , and doubtless cracked m any a joke at the parsons ’ expense at their market day meetings . But Jupiter lets us into the secret ’ “ of his own and his friend s faith ' They were acquainted with the practice of the ancients in this

” ’ particular ; and , when the second year s crops 8 I NV E R ESK PARISH LORE .

under the new method came to be reaped , the increased yield and improved quality proved the

s men of the manse to be right , and the auld wive

of the mains to be wrong . Between the present condition of a griculture

and its state last century the distance is immense . 1 60 20 to 25 In 7 , the rental of land was / / per

oa t- acre , and up till then no bread but cakes

were the daily fa re of working people . A plough man ’ s weekly wage was 5/ and as the necessaries of life occasionally touched famine prices the pinch b at times must have been hard indeed . A out “ 700 the year just mentioned , some acres in the fields of Inveresk were divided among the

neighbouring lairds and afterwards enclosed . The of of Howe Mire , part the battlefield Pinkie , had been previously a stagnant mora ss with ague and

. of fever prevalent around it Now , no portion

or the parish is more healthy yields better crops .

The la ve a s , as well the lairds , have therefore

been sharers in the gain . The parish is well furnished with growing

timber. Much planted last century has attained

considerable size . Some of it is deserving of

’ f Bu l u h . o cc e c s special notice In the Duke policies , there are several fine specimens of the cedars of t o Lebanon near the Smea on Entrance L dge , and at another part are a number of very venerable oa k of trees , believed to be a remnant the once 9 TOPOGRAPHY .

extensive forest which extended from Craigmillar

n to the Esk , in the days when the Scottish Ki gs

found in it a favourite hunting ground .

is a l The air pure, the clim te hea thy and the d eath rate low . After a long struggle with the d timid , who read any departure from what they c have been ac ustomed to , and with those self of who constituted guardians public interests, oppose every measure that involves outlay how d of ever beneficial , the a vocates progress prevailed ,

a and a w ter supply and drainage system , properly constructed footpaths and carriage ways were d secured . As a result , the sanitary con ition has w been advanced , and unsavoury d ellings are in the way of becoming a thing of the past . With — an increasing attention to cleanliness personal ,

s l — ro dome tic and ocal , and the supervision of p

oflicia ls perly qualified and energetic , the reputation of of the locality , as a desirable place residence , pro

s mises to become more con picuous, and it is hoped it will rightfully take its place among the most

s popular of Scotti h health resorts . Already capital has been attracted towards it for the erection of dw l - of e ling houses a superior class , and the manner in which these have been taken up proves that the investment will yield a fair return . For situation and surroundings there are few places the parish need envy . Its old minister, Dr. “ Carlyle, claimed it to be one of the most beautiful 10 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

wa s in Scotland , and he not a man given to — vapouring. Thomas Carlyle uncompromising, hard

- — headed and plain speaking is every bit as compli f f l ’ mentary . In his elucidation o on e o Cromwe l s

Musselburgh letters this occurs We march . with d of efiant circumstance war, round all accessible

of on sides Edinburgh ; encamp the Pentlands , return to Musselburgh for provisions ; go to the — Pentlands again enjoy on e of the beautifulest

s - prospect , over deep blue seas , over yellow corn

fields , dusky Highland mountains , from Ben ” Lomond round to the Bass again . Those who have visited the most famous sights in Europe have looked upon these same panoramic and historic scenes with admiration : others who have made acquaintance with the choicest landscapes of the West have been no less e m namoured by them . Here the eye passes fro

Craigmillar , where Queen Mary stayed , to Car berry, Where she surrendered ; from the battle of to field Pinkie , where the Scots were routed , that of Prestonpans where Charlie won ; from the

’ fortalice of Fa s ide to the tower of Preston ; from the fourteenth century turrets of Pinkie to the four hundred year old Clock Steeple of Mussel

the burgh . Otherwise the view takes in Pentlands

Moorfoots La m m erm oors and the , the and the

G a rleton s s , with North Berwick Law and the Bas

- like solitary sentinels on ou t post duty. From the TOPOGRAPHY . 11

German Ocean and Isle of May the sweep of the b of vision em races the waters the Firth , reflecting

- - t the wing like canvas of sailing craft, and s reaked f ’ with the dusky trail o steamers smoke . It steals along over the fair fields and busy towns dotted upon the Fifeshire Coast from Earlsferry to King

’ I n chkeith to horn , from Leith , from Arthur s Seat

to Aberdour , from the woods of Dalmeny to the f summit o Dumyat . Under exceptional conditions the higher summits of the Perthshire Grampians that rise above Strathmore are seen to overtop the

nearer ranges in Fife and Forfar ; and Ben Lomond , Ben Ledi and Ben V oirlich stand ou t clear a n d

n distinguishable against the eveni g sky . If within the compass of this horizon the eye may enjoy a d perpetual feast , the min becomes a participant in the pleasure when memory recalls the royal of cavalcades, the processions mitred dignitaries, the state welcomes , the military spectacles, the

s a d gorgeous funerals, the gay , splendid , solemn ,

history - making events that the parish has wit

n es s ed. ( Entrants ): I I .

P R E H I S T O R I C .

Z of DO EN years ago , anything known human life in the parish before the com

m en cem en t of the Christian era , was in the f main conjectural . With the dawn o record the story began , but from the darkness beyond , light im has since come , and the barrier previously penetrable , has been partially unclosed . What the written page was searched for in vain , memorials of man found in the soil have revealed .

l to - At Magda en Bridge , close the north western d of of boun ary the parish , a series nine funereal

ten urns were found about years since , in the strata of sand and gravel which immediately underlays the surface . These are preserved in the

on e National Antiquarian Museum , Edinburgh . In of m i nz these urns , a finely orna ented th n oval bro e

wa s a blade obtained , which pl ced their belonging to the bronze period beyond question . The dis covery was looked upon as one of considerable importance, but it has been completely eclipsed by another more recently made at Kirk Park , immed ia tely at the base of the eminence on which the

14 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

c the exact date when these interments took pla e , on e of the best qualified to form an opinion a ssigns B C them to a period not less than 600 . .

Following the View taken by this expert , a colony is seen to have been settled in the parish five and twenty cen tu ries a go ; and if it be granted l that the remains contained in the cists and urns unearthed are probably those of its more impor tant members only , then its numbers may be reckoned to have been all the larger. Of thos e whose dwellings nestled and whos e remains have thus been found it is possible to

ha s t learn something, from what been ascer ained f to be characteristic o the era in which they lived . This little community may be considered to have its counterpart in an I ndian Wigwam or in the of village life Central Africa at the present day . of It was, however , advanced beyond the state primitive man . Already it had learned that in a to settled abode , greater security was be obtained than fell to the lot of the isolated and migratory wh a of o lead a nom d life . In some the industries e progress had also been made . Their knowl dge

’ of the potter s art had , doubtless, come down from ancestors who had brought it with them when the British Isles still formed part of the continent of to Europe . The form and finish given the earthen b ware vessels already descri ed , when put in com parison with others belonging to the Stone 15 PREHISTORIC .

period , show a considerable advance , the latter

— - - fir e . being less shapely and sun dried , not baked For food supplies they would depend mainly upon hunting and fishing and such edible plants as they could find . of But what of their mental condition , what the m as thinking men ? Surely the methods taken to pres erve the bones of their departed and the articles sometimes put in the tomb beside them appear to suggest that they ha d some idea of a

a n d wa s hereafter, that their conception no longer content with looking for it to be simply a happy hunting ground . A nobler belief seems to have

to wa begun make y among them , an anticipation of — good things desired , but denied rest and p eace in place of toil and war . Faint and feeble i that ant cipation may have been , but if sym bolis m ha s any meaning they appear to have hoped

the that sword , which had been often handled to or defend defy , would no longer be required , and its fragments therefore fin d their place in the funereal urn.

With these ancient Britons , years passed as they m do still . To gladness and gloom , irth and sadness , w care and toil , they ere no strangers . On the rain l d’ c oud they saw Go s bow pencilled , and , perchance e ven to their untutored minds it was not without of a message . Such is a glimpse the early colony at this spot which recent discoveries have given . 1 O 6 INVERESK PARISH L RE . But to a far higher past the mind is led by another discovery made at Olive Bank about eleven years l d since . In the strata a ready mentione , a couple of large oa k trees were found embedded at a con

s idera ble depth , not fossilized , but sound and

serviceable . The novelty of the find procured for

it prominence and publicity . Before removal , the trees were examined in s itu by distingui s hed

u geologists and archaeologists . Such q estions as

whence and how they had come , and how long

they had remained there were carefully considered . The result assigned them to a period years

ago . Two noble mantelpieces were made from on e of w of them , and ith a plank the timber , formed an d attractive group in the Forestry Exhibition , E in 188 4 burgh , . The catalogue entry reads One

- one Dining room and one Hall Mantelpiece , and of plank from an Oak tree great age , probably at or about the time when Neolithic Man entered

Britain . of Veritable vestiges creation , it may with some

n ot confidence be affirmed , these trees did fall

ha d where they were found , for they a deep layer of pure sand below as well as above them . Nor of had they been the victims decay . Most likely they ha d either been uprooted by a hurricane or a

flood , and had been transported on the bosom of

n the waters to the spot where they were fou d.

80 N V E R ES K H U R C H 1 . I C , 5

18 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

great Lothian coal basin , which geologists say is of an older formation than that in Durham and

or hu m b erla n d N t . No fewer than forty seams are met with in the

of r coal measures the Lothians , and these va y from

- - a - two and half to nine feet in thickness . The article Inveresk in the New Statistical Account , 18 39 . . written in by the late Rev . J G Beveridge , contains interesting particulars of its geological features . In that admirably compiled descriptive

s ix notice , collieries are mentioned , three at work , three recently before discontinued . The former

Mon kton ha ll were at New Craighall , , and Edmon

a t ston , the latter had been Pinkie Burn , Midfield i and Cowp ts . All have been long closed . The withdrawal from s o many workings is n ot due to to the supply having been exhausted , but the difficulty and expense of reaching the lower seams . having become greater than the enterprise could to bear. In the endeavour made cope with the d ifficulties presented , a great pumping engine was put down at the New Craighall pit that at the — time was reckoned a marvel of its kind . Of s e great an interest was it the subject among engineer o ing circles at home and abroad , that an elab rate a of ccount it was published in book form , about sixty years since , unique in this respect , that while on e page wa s printed in En glish the other facing it was given in corresponding French . The remains PREHISTORIC . 19 of the engine - house still stand in a field on Stoney

N wha iles hill farm n ear e Station .

In all the coal pits already mentioned , and in those afterwards opened at Wa llyford and Car berry , animal and vegetable remains have been of frequently found . The existence this great accumulation of carboniferous strata tells of a time when the climate wa s tropical and vegetation of den s e . On the other hand some the fossils it

s contain , indicate an alternative aquatic condition

for necessary their existence , and countenance the s s ea upposed presence of a great lake or , the denizens of which belonged to s pecies no longer met with either in salt or fresh water. Qfib a p ter I I I .

A COMING OF THE ROM NS .

ORE than half - a - century before the begin

of J a ning the Christian era , ulius C esar ff e ected a landing in the south of Britain ; from the day he planted his standards upon her shores Britannia assumed a fresh importance . f ” Trade followed the lag even then , and a con quest by many reckoned w orthless proved to be valuable . Before the end of the second century , barren Britain had become an exporting country,

wa s i of etc and looked to for suppl es cattle, corn , ,

B u t by the continent . the Roman generals and the legions they commanded found it no child ’ s play to establish the Imperial power and make it respected . The native races were hardy and

a n d - ha d brave , many a well contested battle to be won before they yielded to the rule of the

wa s a n d conqueror. Time thus occupied , it was not till Julius Caesar ha d been replaced by Juliu s A D . . 80 Agricola that , somewhere about , , the

Roman troops penetrated into North Britain . These were n ot the days of electric telegraphs or military intelligence departments . Wheatstone OMI NG r 21 C o THE ROMANS .

as or Von Moltke had n ot yet arisen . But even news speeds over the plains of India or tidings of a plentiful supply at market reach the coster mongers of London with marvellous rapidity and by means inexplicable , so , doubtless, tidings of an enemy in the land would reach the little com

munity on the banks of the Esk at Musselburgh . w Not ithstanding, in the meantime food would require to be obtained and the pot kept boiling

d B - - as best they coul . y and bye , like the mut

terin s g of a coming storm , the news would be

a n d repeated . The stories of strife struggle begin to come in more detail , and fugitives from the

s fight picture its horror . Suddenly danger is

at the door. A strange glittering mass is de v scried pouring o er the height at Carberry, and

on it the sunbeams flash and sparkle . What can it ? be Nothing else than the brass helmets , polished armour and glittering weapon s of the approaching ? foe . What is to be done Time is precious but

it is short . Hurriedly they prepare to defend

their dwellings , and if need be sacrifice themselves ’ for home s sake . These heroes of the hamlet are

brave , but they are undisciplined , and neither in numbers n or in equipment have any chance against

their assailants. Nearer the legionaries come with l the steady tramp and soldiery bearing, and wel t kni frames of men inured to discipline and danger.

n ou t The orders of the centurions ri g clearly , a 22 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

of change formation is made , and the two forces stand face to face in deadly conflict . The fight does not last long , but it is not ended till many a wound has been given , many a life lost , and victory won by the invader. The troops of the Mistress of the World thus — came to the shore of Bodotria Sinus O rientalis of the Firth Forth , displayed her eagles and estab

lis hed n ow . her rule , where we call Inveresk Whether ou r ancestors who were worsted in this fight had time to put on their war pa int and turn ou t in review order history neglects to say .

do s o We know they were fond to , and need have no scruple in supposing they felt quite as important i n their own estimation as any soldier who ever donned a uniform , when they had their persons who bedaubed . Like the Chinese encountered the British troops with a mighty din of drums and with bann ers bearing frightful monsters painte d on them , these Britons doubtless vainly fancied o off their woa ded b dies would scare an enemy .

i d for Anyhow , this practice obta ne them the name

n ow viz z— s by which they are mostly known , . Pict ,

w e that is painted , of which are reminded by the word depict . The movement forward to Inveresk carried the great Roman roa d known as Watling Street from coast to coast along the island . From Dover it

n led to London and o to Chester. Reference to r COMING o THE ROMANS . 23 a map shows that a line nearly due north from

Chester, indicates pretty nearly the course it took of by way Carlisle , across the Cheviots , by Jed

V o rie burgh , Melrose , Gala Water, Borthwick and g to Inveresk . Once settled in their new sta tion these sons of Mars must have looked across upon the hills of o Fife with some degree of awe . Strange st ries

I ts were told them of the unknown land beyond . air was said to be so poisonous that whoever of entered it died . Reserved to be the abode t depar ed spirits , it was in this way thought to be made secure against the intrusion of the living ; and from the horrors the natives associated with of existence there , it was spoken with bated breath “ as the cold hell . To propitiate the gods and place themselves

of wa s right with the powers the spirit world , , f o . however , the policy the Romans A singular proof of this is met with a few miles from Car

is lisle , where an altar has been discovered and to be seen , dedicated to a deity absolutely unknown o in R me but worshipped in Britain .

Of the colonia and municipium at Inveresk , little , if any , information can be obtained from c the earliest a counts of the Romans in Britain . The topographical details given in these are

a in fragment ry , often inaccurate and altogether s u fficien t of a n to be y service in this respect . 24 INVERESK PARISH LORE . When inaccurate local geography can be met with in a highly prized production of a Historiographer of ff Royal and in the interlocutor a learned sheri , no surprise need be felt nor disappointment ex

erien ced of to p , when the historians antiquity fail

ha d tell all we want to know . These historians n o unrivalled Atlas or Ga zeteer of Geography to

to n o l of to which refer, fi es newspapers which to to turn . Tacitus had depend rather upon the a - fires t les told around the camp , when infantry , cavalry , seamen and marines rehearsed their do

of ni ings , and in the desire each arm to mag fy the achievements of the branch of the ser vice to which it belonged made what it had done as big to as possible . With such exaggerations draw upon the picture became distorted and ou t of pro

to iden tf portion , and localities named difficult y.

Enough in itself, the obstacle thus met with has been enormously added to by the ingenious fer tility with which imaginary resemblances of words

of e in form sound have b en seized upon , and endeavour made to establish claims purely chimer ical . “ a With good re son , Delta says in his most valu able brochure on The Roman Antiquities of “ of Inveresk Of the Roman Itinera , north the

Tweed , we unfortunately know nothing more , — — n or can we n ow expect to do than ca n be gathered through the geographical haziness of

26 O I NVERESK PARISH L RE .

“ of w n t . o o the said town N , if , is accepted in any of the s ix books of Euclid as an equ ivalent for

i n or to wh ch is demonstrated , can it be held be s o here , especially since , in the splendid work where

i ha s l of a s this f s ipped in , the Esk is spoken in

Haddingtonshire . To of some , this question groping in the grey

’ blin dm a n s - f past, buf fashion , after identification of places named in ancient writings may seem hardly within the scope of a work like the present . We are quite aware it may be found fault with as occupying space that might have been better

h to ou r employed . But it may ave more do with s ubject than at first sight appears , and believing it

we w to n ot i has , allo it stand ; forgett ng that Lord Hailes tells of having somewhere read of a

who a Frenchman charged C esar with being pedantic , because he wrote his commentaries in Latin . This

n e - a r is no w fangled subject . Ex ctly two hund ed years ago Thomas Innes took his degree a s MA . w at Paris University , and some years after ards he spent a winter chiefly in the Advocates ’

his Library , Edinburgh , collecting materials for able Essay on the Ancient Inhabitants of Scot

l r land . With singular fe icity and penet ation he of deals with his subject , and ascribes much the confusion and obscurity that is still experienced

’ in the study of ou r country s history through its of language , to the negligence and ignorance s 2 COMING or THE R OMAN . 7

a of of tr nscribers , and to the unfamiliarity those

- of on e age with the hand writing a previous . He

ou t f points , also , how the a finity of the Pictish ,

- Irish Gaelic , and British tongues , and the blend ing of the races when the Pictish and Scottish Kingdoms were joined in the ninth century together contributed s o to revolutionize the lan of guage that , before the middle the twelfth century the Pictish tongue completely disappeared .

History , antiquarian research and tradition agree in regard to what followed upon the Roman

hi U n General establis ng a station at Inveresk . like the methods of merciless extirpation or woe ful servitude adopted by later usurpers , Agricola is credited with having established a firm admin i tra i n s t o . He demanded obedience , and made

d For order and justice to be respecte . races in an early stage of civilization this ha s proved the form of government from which most advantage f obtained . The policy o Agricola his successors

a n d m continued , its success became anifest . Build ings were erected s u ch as the district and country d had never before possesse , military works were constructed , usages were introduced which were of previously unknown , and that system juris prudence was established to which Scotland ha s tenaciously clung . Some writers affirm that the centurions and soldiers of those legions which served at the Firth 28 I NVERESK PARISH LORE . of Forth took kindly to their quarters , and the statement receives confirmation from what of been discovered the buildings they erected . have heard the Bay of Musselburgh compared unfavourably with the Bay of Naples ; and assum ing there must be some warrant for the compari s on , the seeming resemblance may have been s observed by the sons of the penin ula , and this northern station have reminded them of their sunny

on re southern homes . Be this as it may, it is

D 40 for A. 9 cord that when recalled . to fight the tottering empire , they parted from their position with regret and felt it to be a wrench to leave of behind many fruits their industry , skill , and enterprise . I ( I/ hu nte r I V .

AFTER THE ROMANS .

NDER the administration of the Roman gover

nors , Britain rapidly advanced in wealth .

The tribute exacted was hard to bear, but security enjoyed enabled industry to thrive d and the arts of peace to prosper. Beside fortifie positions communities gathered and towns grew . The massive walls by which these towns were surrounded afforded protection against attack . In the more populous were constructed magnificent of of buildings, worthy Rome herself in respect

Belles heim architecture . An incidental notice by

' “ of a fountain at Carlisle , the wondrous work of ” Roman hands , indicates how greatly the resources of Brita in had been developed and to what noble purposes they were in part applied . Nor was the influence of western civilization confined to towns . The provincial Briton of posi tion imitated his military masters and conformed f to their mode o living. There thus arose villas provided with all the comforts common to an Italian

’ noble s home . In many a secluded spot were then firs t seen the counterparts of the mansions and of country houses more modern times . In these 30 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

villas luxury abounded , golden vessels were used , d jewelled armour was worn , banquets were sprea ,

and revels held . These old times have been thought

I I ou h to be rude and barbarous , but n them were a g

refinement and a heroic chivalry , undaunted courage in the face of danger coupled with lamentable weakness in presence of ‘ temptation— the human nature of the nineteenth century reflected in that f o the fifth and sixth .

e But when the Roman legions had depart d , and the firm hand that could shield as well as compel

w a s of no longer felt , a time unrest and trouble set

s ea of r of in . Across the tidings the fe tility the

- m land reached the fair haired Frisian far er folk , to and they were not slow to come fight and s ettle . of Pinched circumstances at home , prospect plenty abroad have ever set up the problems which emi e gratien and immigration s ek to solve . Among the first to descry the keels of the Teutons making f headway for the shore were the men o Lothian . An estuary or navigable river offered the readiest

or access from the great sea , bend bay provided l ff a shelter, and a grave ly bed a orded the anchor ge and safe landing indispensable if a footing was to to be m aintained among a hostile people . It is be remembered that such conditions led to the selection w hi of the sites of our oldest coast to ns . Somet ng

more than mere conjecture , therefore , favours the presumption that the first encounter with the in 31 AFTER THE R OMANs . vaders must have taken place at the mouth of the

e Esk or in its neighbourhood , for no more vulnerabl spot is to be met w ith between Du n ca n s by Head and Dover . That the Frisians overcame those who had

for a . been dwellers in the land thousand years , the ” ” “

tons , wicks , and hams , dotted over it plainly

El hin s ton Dol hin s ton Edm on ds ton Du d prove . p , p , ,

din s ton to g , are the immediate south , east and west off s . of Invere k Further , Arniston , Colinton , Car

Ga rleton rington , Gilmerton , Ormiston , , Dirleton , dd t r T n n in ha m e Ha ing on , Bo thwick and y g , tell the same tale of a n Anglic invasion and the displace

ment of the native race . It may be observed all

- these ton s are more or less inland . Farmer folk do not want a stretch of gravell y beach but of

the land for tillage , and in choosing these sites , Frisians showed they knew what their calling re

quired and settled themselves accordingly . “ of Green , in his History the English People and

of El hin s ton in The Making England , names p ,

Dol hin s ton Du ddin s ton Edm on ds ton p , g , , all near

of El hin s neighbours of Inveresk , as reminders the p ,

Doddin s d who Dolphins , g and Edmon s there first s et up their homesteads ; he further tells that from

- - their blood bond and folkmote , the Anglo Saxon

ou t of Witenagemot sprung, and that this germ the whole system of public justice and representative

government in Great Britain , step by step , has been 3 2 I NVERESK PARISH LORE .

developed . As confir matory of what has been o t m already stated , Covingt n , Laming on , Sy ington , Thankerton are little townships in Lanarkshire far away from sea or shore amid pastoral hills near

of d a c the head waters the Twee , but directly of cessible from the coast by the course that river, — the and from Berwick fort on the bay .

a n d Into the struggle between Briton Teuton , an element entered which was bound to increase its bitterness . Christianity had penetrated into hi l Britain , w le the German races were sti l so far ou t of of or the stream commerce , what might

’ n ow - a - u days be called the to rists track , that the missionaries of the new faith had never reached them . Unchristianised and dwellers in the heath ,

- heathen came to be synonomous with non Christian . Of this struggle we can best learn from Aneurin

who ro the bard and Gildas the historian , were p — of bably eye witnesses , certam contemporaries

r the events they record in song and sto y . Grue of some is the narrative Gildas . War in its most appalling wantonness he portrays . The very con fus ion of his tale points to its having been written amid the terrible commotion . A battle lost meant o a t wn destroyed , promiscuous slaughter , and the unburied dead left to feed the ea gles or beasts of prey. Aneurin in the Gododin sings a rhythmic

i for of we rd battle dirge , the flower British chiefs

’ ' ‘ FAcs I MI LE O LDEST ESS I O N hI I N U l E- K S BOO .

AFTER THE ROMANS . 33 s lain in the decisive and disastrous encounter at

in Ca tra eth and Godod . The battle lasted through ou t an entire week , and the Britains were com of pletely vanquished . The scene this conflict is placed by different interpreters of the poem

s in di tricts so far apart as Yorkshire , Cumber land , and Lothian . Those who favour the last acknowledge that the district extended from the Es k to the Pentland Hills and westward to the

Eid n Roman Wall and the river Carron . y is sought to be identified with Edinburgh simply because of i ts . similarity in form and sound Sixty years since , William a n d Robert Chambers acknowledged it to be quite uncertain that Aneurin meant by Eidyn the place now called no further d iscovery locates it with certainty . Several con of siderations point all the other way . The date i A D 70 Godod n . . 5 the battle of is variously given ,

580 506 d s , , and the bar who ings mournfully of it d d a s escribe himself then an aged man . Edwin

’ who founded Edwin s burgh did not begin to A D . 1 . of reign till 6 7 . Chambers quotes Simon

to s A D 8 4 d . 5 Durham how that in . , E inburgh must d d h have been a consi erable village . It coul ardly — have been the City of Eidyn two- and - a half to

' en u ries rli r c t ea e . three But , besides the mention “ of Eid n of Dinas y , what is to be said the hall of Eid n a y where the m iled warriors assembled , where the mead cup was drained ; and the revelry C 3 4 INVERESK PARISH LORE . of h feasting , all too surely , left c iefs of whom

u n fitted . Aneurin sang , for the fight Of such a “ ’ hall in Edinburgh in Aneurin s day , fable and

s legend , record and ruin are together ilent . Facts on the other hand favour the fancy that

Eid n Aneurin may have meant Inveresk by y .

Here were a municipium and colonia , and the remains of a Roman villa prove a banqueting hall had been also . The particulars the bard supplies being thus found in on e of the districts assigned as

a s the site of the battle , it is just as likely not

s a w of a n d that district the end the conflict , that the effacement of its buildings followed the defeat of the n ative army .

During well - nigh two centuries wave after wave of Germanic invaders dashed upon the British coasts and pressed evermore for larger elbow room . Throughout these generations , the ancient race was confronted with a fe e whose policy was all or nothing. Victorious , pitiless destruction left

of or . d nought to tell who what had been Defeate , f they only retired to try again . Made o the same stuff as those whom Napoleon contemptuously of called a nation shopkeepers , they were equally resolute and in the end successful . From them the — w Anglo Saxon race has come . The lo land Scotch of of Lothian is a survival purest Early English , and after fourteen centuries it still retains a family f resemblance o the parent Deutsch . AFTE R THE ROMANS . 3 5

of s Writing the Engli h settlement , Green says ,

or In other lands , in Spain , or Gaul Italy , though they were equally conquered by German peoples ,

re religion , social life , administrative order still mained Roman . In Britain alone , Rome died into a vague tradition of the past . The villas , the

s di ou r f a re mo aics , the coins which we g up in ields no relics of our English fathers , but of a Roman

’ world which ou r fathers sword swept utterly away . The new England was a heathen country . The religion of Woden and Thor tri f ” umphed over the religion o Christ . The battle of

G ododin of was won by the worshippers Odin . Qfib a p ter V .

RELICS OF THE ROMANS .

N the preceding chapter it ha s been shewn how the structures erected by the Romans in Britain were demolished and how the memory f d of o them came to be effaced . Just as the spa e the excavator has brought to light treasure s in

Babylon and Nineveh , so has it discovered the of evidence Roman greatness in Britain . Bath and

s Chester have been rich in revelation , and the of l mounds Silchester , till very recently on y supposed possibly to mark the site of a Roman ’ ‘ n ow os itivel to d station , are known p y have covere

lla Ca ve . that of Like these posts in the south , Inveresk passed into oblivion till relics of its t d occupa ion revive the tale . First among these remains may be noticed an d of h ancient, buttressed bri ge three Spans w ich crosses the Esk clos e to Musselburgh Railway

is n ow s Station . It only open for foot pa sengers d and is locally call ed the Roman or the Aul Brig .

is a n d This designation at once right wrong . “f w rong , in so far that nothing of Roman handi ork

— its of remains seen, right , as to being Roman

38 S INVERESK PARI H LORE .

s of s ; Scotland in Edinburgh . In the ca e the Mus el

’ s s burgh bridge , it appear the Romans work remain old f enclosed , but the outer walls of the bank o fice were cleared away after the new s hell was put around them . The importance of this bridge wa s not only local but national . It formed the main approach to Edinburgh from the south for more than a thou s w a s and years , and its maintenance made the s of ubject enactments by the Scottish Parliament .

n Mr . Kirkpatrick Sharpe says Lady Janet Hepbur

s built ye Bridge of Musselburgh . After the los d d of her husband , Lor Seton , who fell at Flod en ,

Lady Janet , in her widowhood , applied much of her w ealth in benefactions . She was the first prioress

S cien n es of the nunnery at near Edinburgh , and a to liberal contributor its erection . Had Lady Janet done what Mr . K . Sharpe attributes to her , the bridge would not have needed mending s o soon a s 159 of 7 , as we learn from an Act the Scottish “ did old Parliament it . This looks more like an ” re lou ed shoe requiring to be c t . The discovery of remains already mentioned a n d the acknowledged existence of Roman road s to d to and from this bri ge , entitle it a foremost place among existing Roman relics at Inveresk . A large slab of concrete within the policies of Inveresk House is the next object to claim a t

h r of tention . T is is pa t of the floor a bath found u l es or 39 R THE ROMANS .

1783 . in January , near where it is placed The following from the pen of Dr . Alexander Carlyle tells how it was found and what it is If there had remained any doubt concerning the situation of wa s this Roman fort, it fully cleared up a few of years ago , when the proprietor a villa , having occasion to take two or three feet off the surface of his parterre , there were then discovered the floors d f and foun ations o various buildings . The owner

s d his being ab ent , atten ing duty in parliament , the d workmen were prevaile upon , by the author of this account , to clear the earth carefully away

on e from of them , and to leave the ruins standing for some time for the inspection of the curious . It w Th a s found to be a Roman bath of two rooms . e

s super tructure had been thrown down and removed ,

s ix s but the floor remained entire , and about inche

of wa s high the wall of the smallest room , which

— - a n d - a nine feet long four and half wide . There was a communication for water by an earthen pipe through the partition wall . The other room was

a n d f . o fifteen feet by nine The floors of these , d the other rooms , were covere with tarras uni w on t o . w formly laid , about inches thick Belo this coat there wa s a coarser sort of lime and n d gravel five i ches eep , laid upon unshapely

s and unjointed flag . This floor stood on pillars two feet high , some of stone , some of circular bricks . The earth had been removed to come to 40 P INVERESK ARISH LORE .

on a solid foundation which to erect the pillars . Under the tarra s of the smallest room there wa s

i a coarser tarras, fully ten inches th ck , which seemed intended to sustain or bear a more con s idera ble fire under it than the Hypoca u s tu m of

a the largest room . There ppeared to have been

u large fires nder it , as the pillars were injured by

‘ wa s fou n d a of them , and there quantity charcoal

in perfect preservation . The Hyp oca u s tu m of the

ar or ta rra s s ed l ger room , space under the floor,

wa s w w fl u es of filled ith earth , and ith made clay , which were laid everywhere between the rows of

s pillars , and were a little discoloured by moke ; a smaller degree of heat having been con veyed through them than through those under the other

room . But these contrivances under the floors seem only to have been intended to preserve heat

in the water, which had been conveyed heated

or on from a kettle , built up hung brickwork , on w on e side of the largest room . This brick ork wa s fi four feet square , and much injured by strong res . This seems to have been a kind of building used

by the Romans only for temporary use . The

or cement tarras , sufficiently proves by whom it

a s o of t was made . the R man composition tha kind

f is o . is superior to any later ages It remarkable , that the tarras of the grand sewers under the city of Rome is of the same kind ; and it is related by travellers , that in the very ancient buildings in the r 4 1 RELICS o THE ROMANS .

kingdom of Bengal , the very same sort has been

s Two u ed . medals were found among the ruins, of s . now in the posse sion of Robert Colt , Esq , owner

the villa . one of them of gold , much defaced , which is supposed to be of Trajan ; another of copper on

w is Diva. Fa u s tin a . hich the inscription clear , d i There are tra itional accounts , that in d gging

d of is herrow foun ations houses in F , there have

of s been found similar ruins Hypocaust , which afford a proof that this station w a s not merely

w a s military , but a Colonia Romana or Municipium that they ha d many houses and buildings near the

a s rcetor i'u m sea, as well their p at Inveresk ; and that one of their principal harbours on this side of

is h rr e ow. the Firth was at F From that harbour,

on e situated where there is at present , there was

s of w a Roman cau eway , (the traces hich remained

of m en within the memory still living) , which led

a t ff to their camp Sheri Hall , three miles south

r s west and onwa d to Borthwick . of t . Such , then , is the interesting narra ive Dr

Carlyle , and the independent accounts given by others who were interested in the subject are to a f like ef ect . The valuable work en titled Ca ledon ia, R em a n d has its notice of the discovery accompanied

of s v w by a ground plan the bath , and a ie of the ta rra s s ed s floor restn upon it pillars . The altar looking relic in Inveresk House grounds is thus seen to be a fragment of thi s tarras flooring dis 4 2 O INVERESK PARISH L RE .

interred a century a go. For many years another portion of it similarly elevated upon pillars stood

f w a s in the gardens o Inveresk Gate , and supposed erroneously to have been a Druidical altar . Admiral of the Fleet Sir Alexander Milne pre

n e 18 0 sented it to the A tiquarian Mus um about 7 . of Within this century , the vallum the Roman

- citadel , which had a stone faced rampart , could

- w still be seen north est from Inveresk House , but no traces of it remain .

s d Roman urns , medal , coins have been foun

a n d s d repeatedly in the locality , are mostly pre erve

s or in private collection , have been handed over to the National Museum .

Entered by a stair from the court - yard of

s Inveresk Hou e is an underground vaulted chamber. This is all n ow accessible of a subterranean passage of over which the villa is built . The form the

is in arch decidedly Roman , and the masonry dica tes great antiquity . This passage is believed to have afforded means of communication between of the interior the fort and the colonia beyond .

wbi in When the present approach from N e gg g _ to

w a s w a s Inveresk made last century , a part of it come upon . A fine collection of sculptured a n d otherwise curious stones are carefully preserved in Sir ’ w Alexander Milne s grounds, some of hich appear

s to be Roman relic . I c r 4 3 R EL s o THE ROMANS .

Another object to be mentioned is the mound

- - h t . in the church yard , nor h west from the Churc

The origin of this is shrouded in obscurity . Anti

u a ries q have wrangled over the question , some

wa s holding it to be Roman , others not . That it used by the Duke of Somerset, and also by Oliver Cromwell as a battery mound is not questioned , but that either constructed it , may well be doubted . The author of Caledonia Romana favours the opinion that the Romans formed this

a n d f mound , after o fering reasons for his preference

s o for this view , he points out that on a point “ uncertain the one View is , at all events, as pro bable as the other . Of recorded Roman remains nothing is heard till nearly a thous and years after the battle of

a r h f n d C t a et . o a In the time Mary Elizabeth , the first important local discovery of which w e d rea was made . Great ado there must have been over it . Queens and statesmen thought it worthy of their consideration . Queen Mary dispatched a special messenger to the bailies of Musselburgh with her royal commands . The ambassador from f ’ the Court o St . James made it the subject of ffi la r o cial letters . F tte ed and fluttered their hon ours the bailies doubtless were by the arrival of

’ ffl s w s a page in ru e and lace , and hen the queen letter was delivered to them with courtly obei s a u ce by its youthful bearer . How proud some 4 4 s INVERESK PARISH Los .

' of Mu s s elbu rgh s modern civic magnates would have been to have had such an experience ! With

’ reference to this busines s Queen Mary s Trea

’ surer s book has the entry following April . 1565 . to bo a s s a n d Item , ane y p of Edinburgh ,

’ w of i to ith ane charge the queen s grace , d rect the of to baillies Musselburgh , charging them take diligent heid and attendance that the monument of a n ti u itie n ow grit q , fundin . be nocht demo ” lis hit nor broken down xii . D .

Mr. Randolph , English ambassador, wrote letters to the Earl of Bedford a n d to Sir William Cecil which , preserved in the State Paper Office , are

’ v l 11 of . given in full in o . . the Antiquarian Society s

e Transactions . In the former of these lett rs the

certa n e fou n de ambassador says , For y ther is a

bes de Mu s k elbou r e cave y g , stounding upon a of number pillers made of tyle stones , curiously w rou hte s i n if in e a n ti u itie a n d g , g y g great q , strange monuments found in the same . Thys cometh to

bes de my knowledge , y the common reporte , by the a of w e to ssurance Alexander Clerke , h e was ther t h h s ee y w C I wyll doe myself w t in these three

w r te s or four days , and y unto your Lord hip the

certa n tie w more y thereof , for I ill leave nothing ” Ra of . yt unseen . In the second letter Mr ndolph “ w d b es de Mu s k elbou r e rites, The cave foun y g s to R om a n es eemeth be some monument of the y ,

. w by a stone that was found , ith these words

46 I NVERESK PARISH LORE .

in Sir Alexander Milne ’ s grounds during opera tions connected with the formation of a sunk

fence , and later, a conduit was there come upon , d ma e of Roman tile and brick , together with a w ater run formed of oaken beams much decayed . w An entire volume might be occupied , ere it attempted to enter into a detailed enumeration d and escription of the urns , coins , Samian ware ,

. ff etc . , etc , that have been found at di erent times in the parish , but this Space forbids . Among the later finds may be mentioned a Denarius of Trajan d 18 64 got in the manse gar en about , and a w particularly fine Roman urn , come upon hen the of w foundations Delta House , Inveresk , ere ex

w a s cavated . The former sent by Rev . Mr.

Beveridge , the latter by Mr . John Gavine , to the

An tiou a ria n Museum . Some notice must now be taken of the Roman

’

w . roads hich traversed . the parish In Patten s “ Expedecion of his Grace of Somerset ; that chronicler of the campaign fur nishes a very de tailed description of the locality at the time of of w the battle Pinkie , in hich this passage occurs Fro this hil of Fa n xs ide Bray descended

’ G - my Lorde s race , my Lord Lieutenant and another, a along before their c pe , (camp, ) within less than

o or of ii flights shottes , int a lane strete a xxx

on l feet brode , fenced either side with a wal of of turf, an elle height ; which way did lead R ELI cs or THE ROMANS . 47 s traight northwards , and nie to a church called

k w a s Mi ha els of U n dres e . Saint g , Here , then , on e of the Roman roads leading to the fort , as this description exactly tallies with what is yet to be found of Watling Street elsewhere . On l of of til the beginning last century , the remains

of via the Roman harbour at Fisherrow , and the

which led to and from it continued to exist .

Ca rdon ell a n d Adam de the antiquary, Maitland

s of via the historian o state . One branch this

led s - w w a outh est by y of Dalkeith , another pro

ceedin w d Bru n s ta n e g to the est , crosse Burn , of passed south where Portobello has been built ,

of R es ta lri onwards east g Church and village , acros s the Water of Leith at the foot of Weigh

n d House Wynd a thence to the Roman Wall .

1742 s d In , a eaman who serve under Admiral

Vernon in the Spanish Main , and was present at

Belle the battle of Porto , built a cottage in sight of the sea on a lonely spot near the road just d w escribed bet een Musselburgh and Edinburgh .

‘

That cottage he named after the engagement . It d 1851 old remaine standing till , the thatched f hous e o Portobello . A relative of the present 18 50 writer, who died in , remembered it , solitary

a n d . alone From this beginning , the popular

- its watering place which bears name has grown . Ambitious to become a port like the two older

on towns either side , a thousand loads of stones 48 P INVERESK ARISH LORE .

were carted about 178 3 from the Roman road

of Du ddin s ton to close by, to the mouth g burn ,

r form a harbour . A fu ther portion of the causeway was used in building the w all along side the public road which encloses Cra igen tin n y

a n d w s farm , hich can be seen to consist almo t entirely of cobble stones for a considerable dis

tance .

r s for Chalmers , who collected mate ial his Cale w “ donia ith the utmost diligence says , It is certain ,

a as remains attest , that a Roman ro d led from to of Inveresk Cramond , along the coast the ” s Forth . Than these roads and these remain , no better proof is needed to show Inveresk to have

been a Roman Station , which Emperors and their

lieutenants highly valued . We admit that thi s may n ot agree with the conclusions w hich others f a n d . o have arrived at , that the pages many writers on the subject may be perused in vain for any reference at all to Inveresk a s a Roman

Station . But this by no means sets that claim d aside or proves it to be unfounde . The secret

of w s which every ray light reveals, the ise t and

most learned failed to observe till far on in ‘ the present century , but the germ to which science owes the splendid results of spectrum analysi s was none the less present in every sunbeam . Because two of the most eminent of Scottis h analytical chemists failed to detect a fatal impurity in water

' 48 INV EREs K n ew 0 s

“ i m ! oa d m ca rted about If? . Roman r 9 d e b to the ill-GAME a { n , to s i y. 3 W bur m a ha rm u m ! a m of the

m u m ! ! re a w fl a11m . m a y g, g afih tbs pum m fl m m

filam en t! z w m m m

M v -s en tird V d M e m for a.

rs w o ects“ ma te ria ls fa his a e Chaim . ho c ll t C l

a n i s ! ~M fl w

“s w a rm s -ri m

“N “ W! fl m fifl m w M N Q m t fll fl tm

6“ M m pem wd ia vain fiw b 'e res k a s a liom an as w e s ets firs t cla im

’ The w re as un founded. t

rev a ls the wihfm an d W e , ma s t m ? Mu n: fl M m e till fa r ah in ‘ the

a h s c n e m t centa n t r M germ to whic ie c mii ne wa s owes the s plendid a M u h f s pectr a w

' ' ‘fil c fi' e us the lees pl t fl eve ry sunbea m M e two of the most en rih efl t of Scottish {muffl ed

(fina lis ts fa il ed to datect a M d MM }?iii - wa ter

l ( li tya p t e r V I .

’ ST . MICHAEL S OF INVERESK .

HRI STIANITY obtained a footing in Britain and made many converts during the Roman P ll i . a a d u s Or n a le period To , the ygy Crony of of kil Andro of Winton , ascribes the honour of being the pioneer missionary the new faith .

of Gododin Be that as it may, the battle , in the sixth century , was between professed Christians V f in and worshippers o V od . If we accept the

Mon en n a f f . o o legend of St Ireland , the church Saint Michael the Archangel at Inveresk was

dis founded , erected and dedicated before that astrous battle . As it appears in Celtic Scotland the legend tells that the early Scots of the sister to l to to isle came Alban , not on y conquer but

Mon en n a convert . Saint is said to have founded seven churches in Scotland, and these at the principal fortified positions . Inveresk has been

on e of s o shown to be the latter, and to rank among f To the number o mystic meaning . place her

on e of title beyond question , version the legend “ is thus explicit : Apud Edinburgh in montis ca cu m in e in honore Sancti Michaelis alteram edi~ ” “ fica vit eccles s ia m ; which can be read , Near ’

or . 51 ST . MICHAEL S INVERESK

Edinburgh a second church was reared in honour ” f . o Saint Michael , on the summit of the mount

’ N0 description could better point to Saint Michael s

' of of Inveresk , Saint Michael s Linlithgow being attributed to the same founder in the legend .

To no church in Edinburgh can it apply . The seven churches said to have been erected by Saint Men en n a are represented to have been d planted at important places . This correspon s

of o u la with apostolic practice . It was to seats p p tion that the first amba ssadors of the Cross betook themselves , and through the converts thus made , the gospel spread into regions more sparsely two peopled . The churches just named , dedicated

u to St . Michael , are pon eminences . This , again , agrees with the practice of the early church , as

- Michael was by it regarded , pre eminently, the r f gua dian o mounts .

Mon en n a 519 541 Saint died in , Saint Giles in , 68 who Saint Cuthbert in 7. Edwin , founded 18 to 6 . Edinburgh , did not begin reign till Saint

’ Michael s , Inveresk , must have been in existence before any of these dates . But it may be objected why should Edinburgh be mentioned in connection with an event which took place before it was in ? existence This is not difficult to account for.

’ Mon en n a s zeal only received recognition by the of Church , long after her life pious endeavour.

Centuries pass before canonization is conferred , 52 INVERESK PARISH LORE . and n ot till then does the legend of the saint ta ke definite form . Before the legend passed as current coin , Edinburgh had arisen , and what

Mon en n a wea r it St . had done , found its proper place in the story . Proverbs have been well

c of s o styled the rystallized wisdom the past , and legendary tradition tells frequently a more truth ful tale than written page which owes its origin to a partisan pen .

Dedica tions to St . Michael were numerous f throughout Christendom . In the time o St .

Mon en n a , Art had not yet been employed as the

’ handmaid of Religion . But men s minds were moved and their lives influenced by the thoughts which Art afterwards gave expression to by sculp

on or . ture , the canvas , in painted window The symbolism met with in representations of St Michael help to explain the secret of the venera tion he received . The particular idea associated with the patron saint of Inveresk may be held to be that which the crest borne upon the old com of mon seal the burgh of Musselburgh embodies . By it Saint Michael is represented a s a mailed

vi ilairt warrior with outspread wings, youthful , g , valiant , the spear in his right hand , the cross

ro upon his shield , and the vanquished dragon p

i i on e of strate beneath him . In th s is sign fied the oldest and most precious hopes that ever cheered

’ man s heart , the ultimate triumph of the spirit ’ MI IIAEL S or C . 5 ST . INVERESK 3

of n f of good over the spirit evil . As o e o the emblems of this archangel most frequently met

’ w freern a n s ith , when it was a privilege to fight and when to be uneducated in letters was accounted

o . honourable , such symb ls had their use Dante says in Paradisio

To s a u s is a da d to ou m n d pe k th pte y r i ,

S c o ou s s a rehen deth in e nly thr gh the en e it pp ,

m a s of n Wh a t then it worthy ke i tell ect . On thi s a ccou n t the S cript ure condes cen ds

U n o ou a cul s a n d e a n d a ds t y r f tie , fe t h n ,

To G od a u s a n d m a n s s om n s , ttrib te , e ethi g el e An d Holy Ch urch un der a n a s pect h u m a n ” G a n d c a s s to ou a briel Mi h el repre ent y .

of In the beginning the sixth century , when

’ of wa s St . Michael s Inveresk founded , churches in Britain had no such aids , but the thoughts suggested by the emblem just described are old as Egyptian hieroglyphics , and are to be found among them . Most probably the first church erected at Inveresk would be of wattle and mud ,

i n . thatched , possibly W th heathe Bede informs

’ of his readers that the church St . Peter s at

York , then the most important of British cities , wa s of built wood in the seventh century . Stone was not generally used in church building before

’

or . the tenth eleventh The Church of St . Michael s at Inveresk may have been erected earlier. When

first mentioned , in the time of Malcolm Canmore , 54 I NVERESK PARISH LORE .

is l Mu s s elbu r hs hir the district attached ca led g e. i of This is ind cative its antiquity . Shire , in the “ s n ow sense in which pari h is employed , was in use for centuries before it came to be applied

of or a roche to an area civil jurisdiction ; parish , p ,

in u r o . parochine , had found a place language to of So employed , it points the period wicker and boulder stone fabrics . That the building demolished in 1803 immediately followed the first

the of church raised , materials which it consisted , and the design , appear to suggest . Ample con current testimony establishes the fact that it wa s mainly constru cted of the materials of the Roman fort which lay conveniently at hand , while its central and earliest part was of a style clearly antecedent to Romanesque . Parallelogram in form , without apsidal annex , its windows small and

or n ot . square , to Norman Gothic it was beholden

- or . s on e Like its successor, St Clement at Rome , of the most interesting of all the churches in

Christendom , of outward beauty it had little to boast . ff of Sheri doms , in the present meaning that term were formed in 1305 and Ive de Addebu rgh

n d to of was the first appoi te that Edinburgh ,

Haddington and Linlithgow . Malcolm Canmore , by whose charter to Dunfermline “ the whole shire ” of Mu s s elbu r i to g is conveyed , began reign in

105 - - s 6 two a . , centuries and half before It can thu ’ or . 55 ST. MICHAEL S INVERESK

“ ” be demonstrated that shire in the latter con n ection must have had a different significance

n ot than in the former, and that it does imply f “ ’ ” a s eparate seat o a shirra s oversight . how By legend , it is seen early Inveresk became possessed of a Christian church . History follows

’ close upon legend s heels . Bede tells that the gospel was preached in East Lothian in the sixth “ wa tt r of century , and as the y Esk formed the b of oundary Northumbria, from west and east the

d n glad ti ings were brought to it . In the seve th century Simeon of Durham gives it this notice : Et tota terra quae pertin et ad monasterium Sancti

Ba ltheri voca tu r T n in ha m La m berm ore quoad y g , a , ” Es em u h usque ad c t e. Mention is again made of In veresk when that part of Northumbria which extended from the Tweed to the Firth of Forth became a permanent part of Scotland . When this cession wa s made in 1020 the fortunes of “ ” the Es cles ia de Mu s kilbu rg became linked to f o . n of to n those St A drews instead Lindisfar e , and the parishioners of Inveresk were thus among the first English speaking subjects of a Scottish

In the printed Dunfermline Chartulary, the

’ following translation of Malcolm Ca n m ore s charter annexing Inveresk to Dunfermline appears : Autograph of I In the name the Holy Trinity , , Malcolm 56 PAR ISH INVERESK LORE .

of God of of m r by the Grace , King Scots , y royal authority and power, with the confirmation of and testimony Queen Margaret my wife , and of e l of the bishops , ar s , and barons my kingdom ,

a c u ies in the clergy also and the people q g. fu Let all present and ture know , that I have founded an abbey on the hill of the infirm in of of honour God Almighty, and the Holy and

of m own undivided Trinity , for the safety y soul and of all my ancestors and for the safety of the of of soul Queen Margaret my wife, and all my

: successors for I have granted , and by this my Charter confirmed to the foresaid abbey all the

of Pa rda s in Pitn a u rcha lands and towns , , Pitte corthin Pethachiehin Bol in the , , Lawar, g , and shire of Kirk a lu dn t I n n eres c and the lesser, with the

of Fofriffe Mu s s elbu r e whole shire and g , with all

s their pertinent , as well in chapels and tithes and

a s i l other oblations, in all other th ngs just y

to a s belonging these lands , towns , and Shires , freely as any king ever granted or conveyed any

n of to gifts from the beginni g the world this day .

a of Kelledees Ma ckdu ffe Witnesses , Iv s , Abbot the , ,

n of Earl , Du can , Earl , Arnald , Earl , Neis son

m . Merles wa . William , At Edinburgh

Agreen with the Autograph in all respects . ” 1? b S J a . s . (as added y) Balfour , Lyon At the time when by this Charter Inveresk to became subject Dunfermline , a new

58 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

wa s superstition , but in the days of David it of esteemed an act pious benevolence . In them how the lamp of knowledge continued to burn , f . o ever dimly In them , men business were formed for the state : the art of writing was cultivated by the monks , they were the only

roficien ts p in mechanics , gardening and archi f t tecture . When we examine the sites o ancien monasteries we are sometimes inclined to s a y with the vulgar, that the clergy in former times always chose the best of the lahd and the most corn m edious habitations : but we do n ot advert that religious houses were frequently erected on waste w grounds, after ards improved by the art and

of who ha d industry the clergy , , alone , art and

w a s industry . It devotion , says John Major, that

w d r produced opulence , but the le d aughter st angled ” of old the parent . So writes Lord Hailes the churchmen . The story of the connection between Inveres k and Dunfermline can be traced in outline in a

t of . Char er Confirmation granted by James II ,

22n d 1450 at Edinburgh , March , and to which “ of w the witnesses are William , bishop Glasgo ,

William , Lord Crichton , Lord Chancellor, Andrew ,

of ou r s Abbot Melrose Confessor and trea urer ,

o Gla m m is William , Lord Somerville , Patrick , L rd , of Masters John Arons, archdeacon Glasgow, and ”

of S choris wode . George , rector of Culter ’ 5 or . 9 ST . MICHAEL S INVERESK

In the narration with which this deed begins , King James sets forth among other reasons which b of prompted him to grant it that , in the a bey “ of of ou r Dunfermline many the bodies ancestors , ” of kings the Scots, lie most honourably entombed , “ and his solicitude that the tranquility, peace and freedom of the said monastery may be secured and that it may not hereafter be harassed by the of f disturbing influence any fluctuating af airs, but enjoy its possessions as we earnestly desire , in ” a n is quiet d perpetual prosperity . The charter too lengthy to be here given in full , but the following provisions bear upon Inveresk in its relationship to Dunfermline . The gift of Malcolm of is first confirmed , then that Hailes, conveyed by Ethelred ; next those of the most excellent David ” of the First, among the long list which appears

fis h the greater Inveresk , the harbour mill and

Ca rba rrin ing , and , (Carberry , ) and the Church of Inveresk ; express exemption is given from

— its poinding of all belonging to the monastery , — men and cattle being particularly mentioned, from

a n payment of y toll throughout Scotland, which would imply freedom from burgh maills or custom ; from working at bridges , castles and all other works , thus relieving those connected with the monastery from an obligation to which all others were subject and which until recent years passed of by the name Statute Labour . From King 0 6 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

William the Abbey received a donation of on e hundred shillings annually ou t of the revenue of

of on the burgh Edinburgh , which he gave the

’ of his day brother King Malcolm s burial . In the accounts of the rental derived from Mussel bu r hs hire 1561 of 5 g in the payment this £ appears . The lands of Smeaton (Smithton) near Musselburgh of were the gift Alexander II . and the great 1 Ro . custom leviable at Musselburgh , bert con veyed to the Abbey . of Papal Bulls confirmatory what David I . had 118 2 done were issued by Lucius III . in and by X 1234 Gregory I . in . The latter grants right to ll of levy te for the repair bridge and streets . How important the parish must have been regarded is to be gathered from the contribution

n 11 it was called upon to pay to St . A drews in 76

Ta xa tio according to the ancient . The following is

Mu s kilb u r 70 : t the list, Ecclesia de g mercas dit o de

Cra n s tou n 60 : Creichton 30 : to , ditto de , dit de

Fa u la u 6 : Locherwort 40 : , ditto de , ditto de

Ker n ton 18 : Koch en 20 : y , ditto de p , ditto de

Clerk in ton 8 : Ma is terton 4 : g , ditto de , ditto de

La on iae 12 30 : oed . Heriot , ditto de Monte ,

n f 11 8 An e try o another kind occurs in 9 . f Robert de Berwick was then Abbot o Dunfermline .

Simon Stury, a burgess of Musselburgh , obtained an acre of land in feu on the north side of the

for Esk, the payment which was stipulated to be ’ or 61 ST . MICHAEL S INVERESK . paid at the feast of the nativity of John the

Three years after this charter was granted to b Simon , Mussel urgh witnessed a great gathering of s on Scottish nobility . William the Lion had a 24th 1198 born at Haddington , August , and to swear allegiance to this little boy they were summoned here . Wynton gives the following quaint description of the occasion

The tothir yhere next folowa n d The m ychty Lordys of S cotla n d The a the s wore off th a re fewte At Mu s kilb ru ch bes ide the s e ’ l Al s a n d r VVilla m s s wn e Til y y y ,

H is fa d rs da s w oc a ll dwn e y y ere n ht ,

Bot his fa d r K n VV lla m e y , the i g y I n a ll hys s ta te a n d in hys n a m e Efftyre th a t wes Ki n g regn a n d

I n k n rik off S o la d till the y c t n . This William was called “ the Lion because “ ’ he placed the ruddy lion ra m p d in gold upon his banner, an emblem that ever since has held its place upon the royal shield , and never has ceased to call forth Scottish patriotism . Says Burns ;

d a s m a to t a c ou s s Wil be t y he rt r e y r tep , Wh os e a nces tors in da ys of yore ’ Through h os tile ra nks a n d ru in d ga ps ’ ” Old S co a s ood o e ti bl y li n h re .

I n of 1242 Bern ha m the spring , David de , 62 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

. on e bishop of St Andrews , of the best prelates

Scotland ever had , called together his clergy and AJ held a diocesan synod at Musselburgh . pheu s

Belles heim of , canon Aix la Chapelle , in his History of the Catholic Church of Scotland fur l nishes particu ars regarding this meeting . Dr.

of - of Rankin , author the Hand book the Church of Scotland also notices it . The business transacted was of the very highest m oment for the well - being of the church , and the excellent spirit which guided the deliberations of those assembled may be gathered from the drift of the decrees agreed of upon . Yet we look in vain in the pages most of historians for any notice whatever this synod .

w - The decrees passed ere twenty six in number.

The first enjoined that church - yards be properly fenced to protect them against wild animals , which at that time were numerous in the forests f that covered a great part o the country . The maintenance of church buildings in repair wa s

a of laid down to be a s cred duty, and the rector each parish was called upon to provide a silver chalice and other requisites . The clergy were

n ot to required to wear a distinguishing dress ,

w on frequent taverns unless hen a journey, not to to gamble , to be pure and circumspect , and reside in their parishes . Sacramental wine was to ordered to be Red in preference White, and directions were given as to the adm inistration of ’ H or ST . MIC AEL S INVERESK .

Communion , Extreme Unction and Marriage . E x treme Unction was ordered to be repeated when

s circum tances so required , and no marriage was to be celebrated except after due proclamation of of banns and then only in presence witnesses .

Prayer was to be made for the Royal Family ,

the Church and those in authority, and sundry other provisions were m ade designed to promote

for Religion , spiritual consolation the sick , and that Christian burial might be accorded to those e ver

taken by sudden death . Finally that these decrees

for might become a power good , their publication

in every parish church was made imperative , b and , their o servance was strictly enjoined .

’ Fancy pictures the scene St . Michael s presented

when this synodical meeting took place . Its fabric

of u n yet unharmed by the tooth Time , its area

encumbered by pews , its floor echoes the procession of priests , its roof resounds with music , its air is

fragrant with incense , and its eager occupants

. ff await their work What that Synod did , a ords old an insight into these times , and shows their

churchmen to have been fervent, devout , and

pious . Where worship is still offered was con s ecra ted by their service and hallowed by wh a t

they accomplished . To imagination ,

The o a s ou ds a n d u s n c o s rg n n , n ee h ir

S n the old La m n s of a c a n d o i g tin hy pe e l ve, ” An d d c on s of o G os bene i ti the H ly h t . 64 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

So early as 669 they began to learn Sa cred m of usic in all the churches the English , and Eddi surnamed Stephen was engaged a s first singing master for the churches in Northumbria .

wa s Of these Inveresk , it is to be remembered ,

on e.

De Bern ha m may be regarded at once as a most capable administrator and a reformer before to the Reformation . These decrees prove him have had an open eye upon abuses , and an earnest d l purpose to further all that he eemed desirab e . Scotla nd has never wanted instan ces of perverted zeal and of Scripture teaching misapplied . Before

’ De Bern ha m s day there were of the clergy who had ceased to celebrate the Communion of the ’ “ ” n Lord s Supper. We are si ners , said they , ” a and therefore dread to communic te unworthily .

After s ix centuries and a - half the same faithless

s superstition not only lingers , but largely prevail , among the laity , especially in the north . Hence

’ the value a right understanding as to the Saviour s dying command “ This do in remembrance of

’

Bern ha m s . me , must have had in De time n But , that bishop has also left behind a wo derful of d of record iligence in duty , which the evidence is happily furnished by his own pen . In less than ten years he consecrated no fewer than on e

- hundred and forty two churches . This at first appears an astounding proof of zeal in church

64m mva m i n ew w a r.

8a M f u m me y hegnn w lea m Sa cred

n i a ll the urc es - of th n lis h n d m i ! n ch h e E g ; a . m s urna med S te phen wa s en ga ged a s first a i eete for the c u rches in Nerthnin im ng m r h bfit . i t es e I e es it is to be M w n h nv r k, m ,

De Bern ha m m a be re arded at no y . g u a ‘ m os t ca pabl e administra tor and a reformed baffl e

es e r es r v hi the Re formation . Th dec e p o e m to ha e ha d an e e e u o a us e a n d an a rn es v op n y p n b s, e t l purpos e to further a l tha t be deem ed des ira ble . Scotla nd has ne ver w

a a

“z M fiu hil m W y.

1 a m a M the s a me fa i l s s AM e n th e

“t la ! ie -fl the n orth; ence W ity, t d y in H

’ fl “0h 4 right unders ta nding a s to M viom 8 “ ’ if.“ com ma nd This do in rem emtifa n ce of v ’ we mus t ha e had in De Ber nhfifis time. Bu t th at bishop has als o left behind a wonderful rm ! ! of d i en ce ut of w ich the ev ce il g in d y, h iden

' is ha i f rn s h d his own In l s pp ly u i e by m . es tha n ten ye a rs he consecra ted no fe m tha n on e

un dred w e fort - two c T a rs h ! y hurches . his t fi t a ppea rs mn m ding proof of md in chmc h o C S I MI LE LF - G E or I S H Accou n r Boox 16 . FA HA PA PA R , 55

’ or 65 s r I . . M CHAEL S INVERESK

building . But it is scarcely that . Rather , it is m keeping with the business disposed of at the S “ ynod of Musselburgh , to have all things done decently and in order, as the Apostle directs . Negligence to the rule which required church and

on e churchyard to be consecrated , so that the “ ’ ” might be regarded as The Lord s House , and “ ’ the other God s acre , had become largely pre

s et valent , and no prelate appears to have himself with s o much assiduity to bring all within his jurisdiction to a sense of duty in this f respect as he o St . Andrews . Curiously enough the pon tificia l offices De Bern ha m used when engaged in the various consecration services in which he took the prominent part has , within the di last few years , been scovered in the National

a Libr ry of France at Paris . On a blank leaf in it he had jotted down where and when these services were conducted , and thus is learned how t busy a life he must have led . It is notewor hy that in this precious itinerary of on e branch of his labours no entry of a dedication service a t

Inveresk appears . This , then , clearly shows St .

’ Michael s there must have been already consecrated . ’ “ ” St . Cuthbert s , under the castle , Edinburgh , he

on 6th 1242 dedicated March , apparently after

n ot the Musselburgh meeting, and St . Giles until 6th October of the following year. This remark able prelate ruled over an extensive area , from the E 66 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

Scottish border - land on the south - east to the neighbourhood of Aberdeen ; and the meeting over which he presided at Mu s selburgh was the provincial council held in Scotland under the authority of the Pope . G ha p tcr VII .

TIME OF WALLACE AND BRUCE .

N the period of Wallace and Bruce several of the scattered threads of the parish story of are found . By the untimely death 128 6 Alexander III . , near Kinghorn , the suc cession to the Scottish crown devolved upon w d of the Maid of Nor ay , and the eath that princess in her eighth year plunged the country into the troubles that a disputed contest for the throne brings . Among the competitors , Robert of De Pinkeny appears . He claimed to be royal

dc lineage , but did not press his suit . That Pin ken y means of Pin kie seem s more than pro bable . In the process of development to its present form it m a y be found in on e charter

Pon tekin of 1531 as , in another between the monks of Dunfermline and those of Newbattle

Pin ohia of Mu s s il it is , while in the Annuell

- h 1 1 k i s c re 56 P n in . s burghe y , , it appears y It noteworthy that all that is required to bring Pyn ken y into harmony with the present pro 67 68 INVERESK PARISH LORE . n ou n cia tion of Pink ie is the omission of its

11 of second last letter , a Strong proof their identity . But a far more importa nt figure than

’ Robert de Pinkeny in the nation s annals , Sir

W u William allace , once made Musselb rgh his to rendezvous. Resolved punish the Earl of Dunbar for his treachery to the cause of Scottish

to his i independence , Wallace gathered s de a couple of hundred of intrepid followers upon the Figga te Muir between Leith and the Honest

Ten n 1290 a e , , and this brave b nd with Wallac at its head made Market Ga te a n d Old Bridge resound with the hoofs of their horses as they pranced forw ard to meet Robert Lauder and Crystal Seton with their retainers at Mussel

At Innerwick the patriot band encountered the

E his a traitor arl , routed force , and c ptured his stronghold , the castle of Dunbar. About this period the pinch of famine was ofte n m . n ot u n co felt , and many perished while it was m on for to r s o the poor to be driven eat g ass , hard were they beset .

1863 a ws ide n In Thomas F , knight , is mentio ed as among those who took part in a convention or

I n chm a rtin parliament , which was held at , another instance of the important place the lairds of that ff of ilk took in national a airs . From another its knights , Orme , Ormiston takes its name .

0 7 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

o a s kept , and nly by such a deed just mentioned

r could they o their posterity acquire freedom . From notices of this degraded class met with in

u the D nfermline Chartulary , it appears many were of the descendants the subjugated Britons . From the frequency with which Gille ” forms a prefix to , their uneuphonious names , and its significance , a ou r servant , it is seen whence modern Highland f ghillie comes . Throughout the whole o the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries this condition f o bondage was predominant . The names applied — i to farm labourers nativi , servi , v llani , homines , fu itivi m a n ci ii— s u fficien tl a g , bondi , p y indic te their servile and helpless estate . The ranks of these bondsmen received a large increas e in the time of ll to Wi iam the Conqueror . Driven despair by the

s o a sword , fire, and famine , many fled into Scotl nd and gave themselves up to a life of servitude for of the Sake obtaining a miserable subsistence that , for of long , there were thousands English slaves s cattered among the towns a n d hamlets of the north . On the afternoon of the 24th June 13 14 a s a d but welcome sight must have been witnessed at

on - fieck ed Musselburgh . A little band , foam

on steeds , spurring at topmost Speed, rattled over

of s the causeway the Market Gate , hurried acros

s i the Auld Brig , and da hed along the great h ghway

r ? for the south . Who were these knightly warrio s 1 TIME OF WALLACE AND BRUCE . 7

Fugitives from Bannockburn ! Proud Edward and

for his scanty guard , hotly pursued , riding life and

’ t of of liber y , the unwilling bearers the news Bruce s victory .

Eight years afterwards , Scotland was threatened with another visit from the English thirsting for revenge , but Bruce once more checkmated them

" and Edward had to return thwarted . Bruce di rected all moveables to be cleared away from o L thian , and Lord Hailes relates that so well were his orders obeyed that the only plunder the English army obtained was a lame bull found at Tranent . The expedition proved a failure because supplies

n ot could be obtained , which was exactly what f 132 . o 9 The Bruce desired On the death Bruce in , of who his nephew , Randolph , Earl Moray , had been second in command at Bannockburn , became Regent of Scotland and tutor and guardian of the f f d young king . In the roll o the barons o Scotlan

1289 e of , Thomas Randolf, Abb Dunfermline is

on of placed third the list Abbots , and they have

Con tes 72a precedence given them next after , , Counts , a title long since unknown in the British peerage . The administration of Randolph must ever be regarded a s a bright period in Scottish history . it By is displayed high statesmanship , unbending of integrity , lofty patriotism , fearless discharge

t f r o . du y , and a wise concern the public good

a l of Fa ws ide R ndo ph despatched Roger , a heritor 2 7 INVERESK PARISH LORE . of 1330 a s to of Inveresk , in , Ambassador the Court of Edward , to negotiate a treaty amity between of the two nations , a task in which the laird Faw side was successful . Here it may be explained that the old fortalice of Fa ws ide Castle is outside

of or the boundary Inveresk , but its home farm grange is within that line . Two years after the treaty had been ratified

on Randolph was taken ill , when a journey , about

ha d a mile eastward from Musselburgh . He l ong f suf ered much from stone , but had borne the pain it occasioned with great fortitude . Brought back ff d to the burgh , the best lodging the town a orde

wa s on e was placed at his service . It a storey

- two roomed house with vaulted ceilings , and its site is now occupied by the dwelling at the

- of . south east extremity High Street, next to St

’ Peter s Episcopal Church . A ground plan and

’ elevation of Randolph s lodging are given in the f original Statistical Account o the parish . The house remained in the same state until the present century The late Sir John David Hope informed the writer that his father was most anxious to ha ve s o precious a relic preserved , but the proprietors

18 20 a n d 18 30 between , proceeded to modernize and convert it into a two storey house . Sub o sequently it was purchased by Sir Archibald H pe , when a portion of the back wall was ascertained

4 7 INVERESK PARISH LORE . o of t wnsmen the past , by their corporations and by their guilds . In these can be read the nobility ” of f o . labour , the long pedigree toil On 24th October 1354 a charter was granted to of I the Burgh Musselburgh by King David I . All the rights and privileges it had previously enjoyed a s a burgh of regality holding of the Abbey of Dunfermline were by it anew ratified and confirmed .

of 1355- 6 In the depth the winter , the parish of of experienced the horrors a state war. Baliol had surrendered his crown and become the pen s ion er of Edward I II ; and Scotland betrayed had b to bear arms once more . David II . had een weak

’ o to en ugh acknowledge Edward s claims, but the proud spirit of his subjects would not brook sub mission . The result was Edward marched into

Scotland with an army strong, splendidly

’ equipped . David s advisers counselled to follow

’ s o of Bruce s plan , and the line march was stripped

of . all that could avail the invaders Advancing k o through Berwic shire into Lothian , every t wn and village Edward ’ s soldiers reached were given

of s to the flames . He made a halt ten day at

nl of Haddington , and wanto y wrecked the Lamp

m a . Lothian , the adjoining on stery and the town From Haddington this mighty host proceeded by Musselburgh to Leith ; and the mention of Burnt Candlemas in man y a Scottish home long after OF AND 5 TIME WALLACE BRUCE . 7

wards reminded of the havoc which it wrought W and the misery hich it caused . Devastation from a very different agency was experienced in the district on the second Christmas

Eve following Burnt Candlemas . The season had

been unpropitious , the harvest was ungathered and

the sodden grain still in stook . Owing to the

- a terrible rain fall the rivers bec me swollen , and

a lamentable destruction w s the result . To the fifteenth century the introduction of the n ow exceedingly popular game of golf into Scot d land is attributed . Dr. Carlyle considere it proba bly to have been an adaption from the Dutch of Kol game f. It is to be remembered intercourse between Holland and Scotland came at that period

to be very friendly . The herring Shoals had deserted their old haunts and had found their way to f the British Coasts . The maritime instincts o

the Dutch , and improvements they had introduced of in into the process curing, naturally sent them of of pursuit the harvest the sea , and it became their interest to keep in the good graces of those

n upon the shores where they plied their calli g. It is perhaps hardly s o well known as it deserves to be that the prosperity of Holland owes not a little to l w its trade in sa t herrings , at a time hen cured fish were in universal request as food upon the

fast days enjoined by the Church . To the Firth of Forth Dutch luggers accordingly 6 v rznrzs x IS 7 PAR H LOR E. a e a n d a d u s s e c m , brisk tra e sprung p with Mu l

r f bu gh. Evidence o it is still patent to everybody

kn ock hou s c of in the and clo k the Hones t Toun.

ha — s a the knockhmw too T t clock , and mo t prob bly , — like the es s entia l wooden ca se of an old- fa s hioned — e - da wa s of u c a es ight y clock , the gift the D t h St t , and the thrifty Holla nders ha d doubtl es s a sens e of - t s o e r u e for fla u s self in ere t, c mbin d with g atit d vo r

c v s o h s e a es . re ei ed , in making and om pr ent The

r a e 1496 e ac for a clock bea s the d t , thus go s b k century and a - ha lf be fore the gen era l introduction of a n d e o s of ea the pendulum , aft r f ur centurie t r a n d wear continues to mark - time with commend a u r I ts old faee e r a ce ble reg la ity. plates wer epl d

88 w s i f 1 3 r s a a o . in ith t an p rent di l , the g ft Mr i of So re s . s R c 8; n F derick Ritch e Me srs Jame it hie ,

T to the r i of the Edinburgh . o return int oduct on

m of o o as i wa s s e el ga e g lf , this nati nal p t me ev r y ro e a te r to l f wn d upon in high qu r s , but ittle pur

’ who i a eo as s pose . Those magine p ple s ple ure can be controlled by Act of Pa rliament a n d changed

o ile to int other currents, might find it worth wh study how powerles s it proved in dea ling with

ol a to i ea d n a a r a n s g f, a recre tion wh ch l i g p rliament i n ow a I of res k bet ke themselves. n the parish Inve a n d upon the links of Musselburgh golf ha s been

a o o a a n d ca o be pl yed fr m time immem ri l , it nn t doubted enactments a imed a t the game ha d its

As of pra ctice at this place in view . examples this

I V ERESK PAR ISH 78 N LORE . his lands of Cameron with an annual rent merks for the maintenance of a priest to minister

’ f “ on e o . at the altars in St Michael s Church , and in doing that he did no more than churchmen and dissenters do still when they contribute for church objects . t a p te r V I I I .

DAWN OF THE REFORMATION .

N the Parliamentary Records an entry occurs shewing that even bailies had their actions

- sometimes over ruled in olden times . On

‘ 23rd Ma rch 1503 - 4 s o , reads the record a cause wa s served in Parliament against William Froge of and George Hill the bailies Musselburgh , for their misconduct in serving several writs of inquest which had issued from the Chapel (the Chancery) of the Abbot of Dunfermline on a tenement in that town . The lords found that the inquest had

’ in s erred serving the writ and et aside the retour . Such a verdict must have been appalling to their to of honours, and have appeared be subversive all municipal authority . Before Reform turned the

- world topsy turvy, Bailies were Bailies and their dictum was decisive , even though it should be. like his of the Ca n on ga te who maintained that of who a squirrel had wings , or his Musselburgh told an accused ‘ if ye hadna ’ a pig ye micht ’ — . e fin e h hae had yin , an y maun gist pay the alf a of crown . A worthy specimen a Musselburgh magistrate who flourished among the twenties re 79 INVERESK PARISH LORE . garded the province of parliament to be to back A the bailie . tenement was about to be rebuilt in

High Street , but an adjoining proprietor threatened to hinder the work by putting forward a claim which he could not substantiate . The point was placed before the Town Council who met on the spot and heard parties . This done, the bailie

com called upon the mason , employed and loftily m a n ded ! to him , Go build that house the skies by

’ ‘ ’ ’ my orders . No sae fast ye re honour, blurted

‘ ’ ou t f the obstructionist , I ll apply tae the Sherif

’ in terdic t a t do s ir for an . you say , thundered

‘ ’ s a w his honour, y another ord and I ll get an act f ’ o parliament and take your house from you . Provost Lawrie was a more recent example of the same type . He was supremely impressed with of the importance his position . When first elected to d a bailieship , in escending the Council House f ’ stair he encountered the Inspector o Police . I m ” s ir a magistrate , , quoth Bailie Lawrie . Giving m f . a the of icial salute Mr Baird replied , I pleased

ir s . to hear it Do you know sir, what would

m a have happened sir , had I not been made a gis ” t ? rate Poor Mr . Baird had to confess he could “ s ir a not divine . Why , , there would have been resignation , there would have been a demonstration , there would have been a presentation , there would ” h off ave been a denunciation , and thus relieved , the newly - fledged bailie marched stampin g his pieced ba lm -s the Town C om m :

t an d e is s po h ard pa rties . Th ca lle d upon the ma s on qemployed

' " - ou t the . obs tructidn is t: 111 irpply h e an Sheriff ’ i t r i t d for a n n e d c. Wha o

ou an a othe r his hon r. y n

" ha e e s ir ha d I n ot e a a ma s pp n d , b en m de gi

“ a - t P a ha he m t o or Mr. B ird d could “ not div e. Wh s ir 0 been a in y, , there rcu i ua tion there wo a demosm a tio g , uld have been n, e wou been a e ta tio them wo ms ld have pr sen n. uld

mot h - fledged bailie marched AM O LT . . R s v. AD C , M A

8 2 I NV Emas s PARISH LORE . east end of the High Street of Musselburgh be

’ tween a portion of the town s common and the l mill ade . The hermit who established himself here about 1533 obtained a p etri or piece of stoney g round for the erection of his chapel in of of honour God and the Virgin Mary Loretto .

u or Dou chtie e Thomas D thie , we learn , to hav

of this ‘ herm it of f been the name the order o St . ’ f V 1 4 o . 53 Paul s . A charter James , , confirms the “ of feu he had obtained , and in the Diurnal Remarkable Occurrents ” the following reference — to him is made I n this mene tym s thair come

ca llit Dou chtie ane heremeit , Thomas , in Scotland ,

u ha b efoir the q haid bein lang capitane Turk , as

a lle it t m a e of ou r was g , and broch ane y g Lady

fou n dit of La u reit with him , and the chappel the , ” f bes id . o y Musselburgh Paterson , the historian the Regality, thinks it highly probable this Dou chtie may have been a native of the burgh of from the name occurring in precepts infeftment .

This chapel and its hermit attracted large numbers . Bishop Leslie gives an account of a pilgrimage J made to it by ames V . on foot from Stirling Castle to beseech the aid of the Virgi n in his of fol love making. The example the king many of lowed, but the early reputation the shrine became exchanged for scenes of revelry , and pil of grimages were made occasions sinful indulgence . Lindsay gives a painful picture of departed sanc r 8 DAWN o THE REFORMATION . 3 tity in the references he has to what happened

there . Along with part of the town the chapel 1544 was burned by Hereford in , but it was speedily repaired and witnessed the last attempt at 1 58 miracle working in Scotland in 5 . The prin

i les of c p the Reformation had been already sown . d ’ Wishart preache in St . Michael s of Inveresk in 154 6 d , guarded by an arme escort of the retainers

of d of Bru n s ta n e the lair s , Ormiston and Long

iddr b e n y. Shortly thereafter was captured at

. ff Ormiston Hall , carried to St Andrews and su ered

martyrdom . QEtj a p t e r I X .

REFORMATION PERIOD .

T the Reformation the pa roche of In n eres k

Mu s cilbu r is of and g, that the parish v In eresk , was not as now included in the Presbytery of Dalkeith but formed part of the

Metropolitan Presbytery . The Rev . John Burne 15 2 156 was its minister in 6 . His stipend in 7 was

2 2 . 2 00 £11 3 d. . merks equal to , sterling A glebe

S ottis wood was designed for him by Mr . John p , of superintendent Lothian , consisting of four a ik ers of os s es s it land , whilk he p twa years after ” ld his en trie . His residence wa s doubtless the o

’ of Vicarage , for the cure St . Michael s had pre

i viou s ly been held by vicars - and the vica ra ge is understood to have occupied a position very near d of the situation of the present manse , in evi ence

’ w on e of hich its adjuncts , the vicar s well , remained

Da m bra e w a s in , and its water in much request

u s e till a few years ago , when its was forbidden

its and site enclosed from sanitary considerations . References to the glebe occur in Session Records

ou and point t its situation . These are noticed later. After every reasonable allowance is made for the 8 4

8 6 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

the inestimable value of the publication ofauthentic records to the cause of historical accuracy and ful

ness , and the great service which such societies as the Bannatyne and Maitland Clubs are capable of

rendering. From the Register w hich furnishes particulars relative to the first Reformation m inis

’ of ter Inveresk , it appears that ministers stipends were then paid at Beltym

Next in succession to Mr . John Burne was the b l 5 4 Rev . Andrew Black a l in 1 7 . From the R egis ter of Min is ters a n d their s tip en ds s en the

Yeir o God 1567 h f he is found to ave been ,

Orm is toun previous to his induction , minister of ,

Cra n k s tou n Pen ca itlen h of c , and , wit a stipend j

’ The As s i n a tion s o lib . g f ministers stipends for 15 the year 76 has this entry Inveresk . Maister Bl k ll c xxv a ha . Andro , minister, his stipend j j lib

Xii s i ii d viz : j j to be payit as follows , . his awin Vicarage of Cra n s tou n newly dis on it to him xxvj p 0

Xii S iii d ou t of of Du n ferm lin lib . j j and the third g

° d Le n s reida re j lib . E ward y , at Inveresk , his of of stipend xx lib . to be payit out the third Dun ferm lin g be the taxmen or pa i ochin ers of ”

1 . Inveresk . Afte coming to Inveresk Mr Black hall ha d Newton a n d Cranston parishes also under of his charge. He was a Commissioner a province , and at the Assembly of 1580 was accused of admit ting a n unqualified exhorter to discharge sacred

functions, but the finding is not stated . Mr. 8 REFORMATION PERIOD . 7

b his Black all and son , Andrew , had confirmation b 22 158 2 granted to them y the king, July , of a ! of . pension x . lib yearly , made by the Com m en da tor and Convent of H a liecroce beside Ed in “ of s chea ves burgh , from the twa part the teind Of

Falkirk . This pension was converted later into a gift , and was excepted from confiscation when Par m t lia en dealt with the temporalities of the Church , 15 4 June 9 . Such tenderness Of dealing would appear to indicate some special claim that Mr.

Bla ck ha ll had upon the convent , and that he was one Of those who formed connecting links between “ ” l n e w of the o d order and the . Many the early ministers of the Reformed Church are believed to have been priests whose accession to the ranks of the Reformers enabled parishes to be equipped with an educated ministry to an exten t otherwise impossible . The year 158 4 was on e Of muchmisery and con fusion in Scotland . The king was determined to supplant Presbyterian order in the Church , and aimed at obtaining possession of absolute power. Dismay spread through the ranks of the Presby teria n s , and great activity was manifested to

s la n d . Cou accomplish the royal purpose , Dirleton , of and Newton estates , south , east , and west Inver

’ esk , were confiscated for Opposition to the king s of wishes , and the minister Inveresk was sum

' m on ed before the Privy Cou n cil to answer for 8 8 INVERESK PARISH LORE . refusing to acknowledge the royal supremacy in

a spiritual as well as temporal concerns . He ppears d of to have escape , however , from deprivation

f n Of ice , as two years later he was appoi ted by the Assembly one Of the Commissioners for trying the

Offences of the ministry in Lothian . In that year 1586 of also, , the Lords the Exchequer ordained d Mr . David Lin say , Commissioner of Lothian , to “ a ik ers design a glebe Of three nearest the kirk .

r b M . Black all was a member Of the Assembly in 1606 to December , which agreed constant Modera ff tors , and named such for the di erent presbyteries .

He died 3 1s t January 1609 in his seventy - third year, and the stone erected to his memory may be seen in the wall of the church on west side Of the

s - spire within the minister burying ground . For a considerable period towards the close Of his l b ministry, Mr. B ack all must have been unable

to e n n or fully discharg his parochial duties u aided , him need this be wondered at. As helper to the A M Rev . Philip Hislop , . . , a late Regent in the

University Of Edinburgh , was called in November

1593 a n d l s t 1595 entered upon the Office January , but died in the following year. Mr. Adam Colt, to who succeeded , was admitted the charge nine

’

b . years before Mr . Black all s death

n f Bu rn s a n d Duri g the incumbencies o Mr . Mr. m Blackball , the constitution , order, and govern ent of the Church were in the main settled . One step

( IT/ hu nte r X .

MINISTRY OF MR . ADAM COLT .

HE third holder Of the incumbency after the

Reformation was a man Of mark , and an

able , diligent , and dignified minister . Mr. Adam Colt was appointed to the charge at the time of o when the Chancellor Scotland , Alexander Set n ,

on e his Lord Dunfermline , had of residences at

Of s Pinkie , and more than any other the minister Of the parish he was brought into close contact and frequent conflict with the reign ing sovereign in

diffiu lt ~ a n d c . times Of y danger If, as a recent “ a V I of historian s ys of James , an immortality mischief seems to have been conferred on this " “ feel foolish king , and if he were the wisest in

n n ha s the of Christe dom , as a other it, position

w a of Mr. Colt s on e which required the exercise much discretion and rare firmness . 1562 Mr . Adam Colt was born in Perth in , and was the s on of a worthy elder and respected

a m gistrate Of the Fair City . His family was Of

o a n d go d position , possessed considerable social

a n d his d Court influence , as escendants have been 90 1 MINISTRY OF MR . ADAM COLT . 9 connected with the parish onwards to the present generation , something Of his family history may here be introduced .

During the fourteenth , fifteenth , and sixteenth centuries many Of the name of Colt appear to have resided in Perthshire and the neighbouring counties , but it is claimed that a settlement had been effected in Scotland by the family at a

a re d much earlier period , and that they escended f i e l rom Colpach ( . . Gae ic for the chief Of

‘ a powerful clan as far back as the ninth century .

- u Whether the place name Corpach , at the so thern

Of a extremity the Caledoni n Canal , is a corruption

Of Colpach we have been unable to ascertain , but it seems by no means improbable . Many other place - names in abundance show how widespread a n d influential members Of the family must have been in early times ; and charters and other records

Ohn only add confirmation . For example , J de Colt d 12 1228 s u S con em . . had a charter, p Feb Colt, or Cults in Aberdeenshire was originally held by

his John de Colt , and remained in family till 13 90 it , when was conveyed by Catherine Colt to

ltbrid e n . Co o her husband , Sir John Forbes g , the

u f o . west of Edinb rgh , in the reign David II

‘ to I ohes who belonged , otherwise John de Colt ,

' married Beatrice de Les ta lrik (Beatrice Of R es ta l rig) and East a n d West Coates are unquestionably

l s of other ocal rendering the family name . 92 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

of The father the Rev . Adam Colt Of Inveresk who was Blaise Colt , inherited among other heri

Leon a rdle t tages the property Of y, Per h , and which now , as near as may be , forms the present

’ ’ parish of St . Leonard s . Mr . Blaise Colt s signature a s a magistrate appears , along with that Of King

on e of James , who was at time provost the city ,

’ in the Perth burgh records . Mr . Adam Colt s

wa s mother Geils (Egidia) Fleming , and through her he became related to Lord Chancellor Maitland , a relationship which gave him a powerful friend in high places .

n to of Adam , desti ed become minister Inveresk a n d ancestor of the Colts Of Inveresk a n d Gart

s on of sherrie , was the seventh and youngest this worthy couple . He received his education at Perth

’ and St . Andrews . He entered St . Salvator s College

his . . in eighteenth year, and became M A three

- years afterwards . When only twenty four he was

on e Of Of elected the Regents Edinburgh University ,

’ then called King James the Sixth s College , and among his students he had the future Sir Thomas

Of l e Hope Craighal , afterwards a lib ral contributor

I n of . to the building and funds the college _

’ Crawford s history Of the college , the following f ’ account o Mr . Colt s election is given In the 158 6 year , five years after the original foundation of the University (the fear of the plague being

M e removed ,) the aisters and Students of the Coll ge

94 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

its may be held to be a more reliable authority , information regarding parishes in this Presbytery having been carefully collected from the Church

Records by the late scholarly minister Of Newbattle , t d the Rev . Dr . Rober Gor on . From this source we

wa s . r learn that Mr Colt admitted to the minist y , 1595 September , presented to Borthwick parish by 11th 1596 to K , , ing James May. and translated 159 7 e . Inveresk in , the exact date not being r corded

He was already a large landed proprietor, and ,

a c about eleven years before his induction , had quired from Chancellor Maitland all the land

’ Chu rch w a s around St . Michael s , east ards far as the village Of Inveresk extends with the exception

H a lk ers ton d Of Inveresk Lodge and Lo ge , which

- on are pre Reformation buildings , and the south ,

’ to w west , and north the river bank and to n s

on s lands . But the terms which these land were

or Obtained , whether by gift purchase , cannot be

d . ascertaine . When Mr Colt became settled in the

for parish , he built a residence himself upon his own estate near the Church , and had a path formed through the grounds from the house to a doorway which can still be seen in the wall to near the north entrance the churchyard , and which even in the present century continued to “ ’ ” be called the Minister s walk . A small building in the Churchyard Opposite where this path ter “ m in a tes w a s then the Session House at the north M . 5 MINISTRY OF MR ADA COLT. 9

’ stile , and nicely situated for the minister s con v n i n Of e e ce. The suitability its site and arrange ments has suggested to some that Inveresk House

Of must have been really the old Manse the parish , but had in some unexplained way passed from its original purpose . That this was the case we have b f heard argued with plausi ility . Where lack o information failed , learned antiquarian fiction came

a n d n in , fur ished beautifully elaborate explanation f o how the transfer would be accomplished . And as an erroneous impression lingers long and s to ometimes is revived , it may be as well put the matter right by showing it to be altogether wrong . 1627 In a report dated , there is stated as the of to last the emoluments payable the minister, “ Ane hundreth pou n dis yearly of ye Towne Of

Mu s s cilb u r h ffor g ye Vicarage . This makes it

- clear that Mr. Colt did not occupy or s u b let the Official residence to which he wa s entitled but

s u m was paid an annual as an equivalent, and how explains , after the incumbency had been

. . his held by Mr Colt and by Mr Oliver, son and successor , succeeding ministers had a manse found them near where the Old vicars ha d their

. to abode During the building of Inveresk House,

. Mill be hereafter described , Mr Colt occupied holm e , — to which his grounds extended , and which once the dower - house of the family— is situated at the 96 I NV EREs x PARISH LORE .

the west end Of High Street, Musselburgh , behind mill there . Further proof that Inveresk House wa s not the manse of the parish is found in the Session

’ Minutes Of Mr . Oliver Colt s time . On 14th June

1659 on e , he reported that Of the houses at the manse had been blown down upon the windy to Sunday , and desired the Session either put

or on it up permit him to do so, the under standing that he would be refunded what it T cost . o the latter alternative the Session agreed h . 19t a fortnight later Another Minute , dated 16 1 February 7 , sets forth that divers Of the “ neighbours in the Da m bra e had given in a supplication for repairing the heid Of the dyke

u belonging to the glebe which , thro gh the break o ccasioned, horse , nolt , sheep and other beasts have en trie into the other yairds thereabout to the great prejudice and hurt Of all the neighbours there . The Session agreed to have the dyke biggit with earth a n d stone to prevent cause Of complaint and gave orders accordingly . These entries shew that the Old Vicarage w a s where the present manse is situate adjoining to D a mb ra e. In the report from which we have already quoted there occurs the following in reference to the Music School , for which King James provided

s an endowment Item, thair is ane Musick

98 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

Records of Inveresk do not extend back beyond

’ of s s on the ministry Mr. Colt , and that no trace

of c any earlier minutes have yet been dis overed .

its Contemporary history, however , is not without use in supplementing facts which have been pre

served , and in casting light upon the Parish annals . We are fortunate in having had placed at our service the valuable family information contained

His tor o the Colts o tha t file in the y f f , compiled and printed for private circulation by Captain Colt

of Ga rts herric , whose kindness in communicating particulars we desire thus specially to acknow

ledge . f ’ During the year o Mr . Adam Colt s ministry at ’ “ Fa s ti wa s Borthwick , Scott s states that he one of those appointed by the General Assembly for a of conference with the Commissioners his Majesty . Now this must have been an important duty to entrust to a minister newly entered upon his first l charge . But , important as it undoubted y was , Mr . Adam Colt had already had considerable experience in trying circumstances , and had been resident in the metropolis at a time of great excitement and of revolution . The turbulence rival factions had brought the country more than once to the verge of anarchy , and the armed bands which powerful nobles controlled had not been slow to plunge large

f w a r districts into all the horrors of a state o . Civil discord had been fomented with English intrigue for MINISTRY or MR . ADAM COLT . 99

d the un isguised purpose of weakening the country , and the accredited agent of Elizabeth blushed not to avow he hoped that peace and the linking of all the Scottish nobility would never be . To these hindrances to st a ble government the friends of the Reformation and the adherents of the old faith d adde their mutual abhorrence , and rendered the pos ition of the young king one of peril and per

lexit p y. In his childhood and youth the Estates of the Realm entrusted the training of the heir to the

w a throne to competent men . Chief of these s

’ of the of d George Buchanan , one greatest Scotlan s s of cholars , a strict disciplinarian , whom and the taws e James retained unpleasant recollections but of the learning he acquired , and the skill in argu ment to which he attained he was inordinately proud . From being the victim of treachery and

of in vec treason, and the object unbridled clerical tive , he braced himself in early manhood to assert to his position , and bring his unruly subjects into did subjection to law . Nor yet he venture to claim

Th d n of n s to o on e right ivi e ki g g vern wr g. 1596 ff In the spring of a airs were in this state , and James returned to Holyrood from the enjoy of of ment hunting . which he was passionately

r fond , for the express pu pose of attending the of meeting Assembly and delivering an oration . 100 P O INVERESK ARISH L RE .

25th of d On the March the king appeare in the. of Assembly , accompanied by an escort the high

w a s est nobles , and warmly welcomed by the

of his h Moderator in the name brethren . In is

dis speech James bore himself right royally , and coursed upon the affairs of Church and State with

d his wis om and discretion . He declared zeal for to religion , and that he esteemed it greater honour be a Christian than to be a king . One ambition

fi wa s only red him , and it to make himself a

a s reputation the establisher of religion , and the provider of livings for the ministry through

w n ou t his hole dominio s . Pleading for paid m d “ troops and a standing ar y , he sai , The times were changed since their forefathers followed each his lord or his laird to Pinkie Field ; a confused of multitude , incapable discipline , and an easy prey

a s of to regular soldiers , the event that miserable day could testify . Since then the fashion and art of war had entirely altered ; and he pro tested it w a s a shame that Scotland shou ld be lying in careless security , whilst all other countries were ” up and in arms . The favourable effect produced by this procedure was increased by the action which immediately followed . By a royal message the king caused intimation to be given to the Assembly that it was his resolution to have ministers appointed to all the kirks in Scotland , and arrangements made to

1 2 0 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

l ru e which the Master enjoins . The result was

of dis another crisis in the struggle , and scenes

in o d order the metropolis that boded no g o . James

era ft by this time was getting accomplished in king ,

a and seeing an advantage g ined , at once took the d of . benefit it He laid the city under ban , remove

his residence from it , declared it no fit place for

la w justice to be administered , and directed the courts to go thence where he should appoint ; bound the magistrates to compear at Perth to stand their

f . trial , and the of ending ministers to be indicted

Edinburgh was aghast at this , and sued for the

royal clemency . James , meanwhile , prolonged the of anxiety , but ordered a meeting the Estates and of the General Assembly to be held at Perth on the

l s f . t o March following . Of this Assembly Mr

Adam Colt was a member. The king had secured “ the attendance of a sufficient number of s u b to servient members , and boldly sought overturn

Presbytery and to replace it with Episcopacy . In

person he submitted a series of craftily - framed to Articles , upon which he called the Assembly

pronounce , expecting to entrap them into taking

S ottis up an untenable position . According to p “ wood all that James desired was to s ee a decent

w s order established in the Kirk , hich hould be

s word God of con istent with the of , the custom

a n d w of . primitive times , the la s the realm So easy is it to claim Scriptural authority upon occa O 1 . 03 MINISTRY OF MR . ADAM C LT

of sion to suit a purpose . The gage war was thus thrown down , and not till the long , sore struggle

or . was ended , had the land the Kirk rest In looking back upon the part which Mr . Adam Colt

fi took in that trying time , it is dif cult to decide whether most to admire his bearing as a Christian

s of mini ter or the gentlemanliness his conduct , ever

’ in harm ony with Paul s needful but much - neglected “ ” counsel, be courteous . To please the king he d never cringed , to defend the right he ever dare , and the dictates of his conscience he unflinchingly obeyed. Such a character and such an example wa s w ff not ithout e ect, and James himself was not

ff u n proof against it . Di er from each other they

d y doubte l did , and unpleasantness sometimes arose

con s e u en ce bu t n ot to in q , the king could fail recog

’ of nise the honesty the minister s heart , and the sincerity of his convictions . Intercourse with Mr. l Co t his Majesty therefore courted , and counsel from him he sometimes sought . It is not , there

a n d fore , surprising to find that he both visited d corresponde with him , and that the chair which the king used upon his visits at Inveresk House is still carefully preserved among family relics at

r h rri Ga ts e e. An important letter to him from the king we will give in as close a rendering of the original as possible ; and here we note the fol lowing entry , relative to it , taken from the Lord

’ s H M Treasurer accounts preserved in . . Regis ter 104 I NVERESK PARISH LORE .

bo a s s a n d of House , Edinburgh Item , to ane y p Edinburgh (to Inveresk House) with clos ltres (letters) that come from his Mati e (Majesty) to Mr xii s iii d 1 6 60 . Adame Colt j j , May

Mr. Adam Colt was a member of the Assembly 1 601. held at Edinburgh , May At that Assembly

. a s he was appointed , along with Mr James Gibson ,

t Teviotda le Commissioner o Merse and , thair care and diligence pa irtlie to be to appoint minis

ters in thair livings , and to try ye life , doctrine , and manner of conversation of ye m in is trie of ye ” Bounds committed to thair visitation .

’ of force of A notable instance Mr . Colt s chara cter and high sense of duty is furn ished in this Ass em “ bly . Calderwood , in describing it , says , When the king was headstrong to have the ministers Of d Edinburgh transported , Mr . A am Colt opposed him fa ce to face in the General As sembly on their

’ behalf . The king s chief argument was , that he l himse f, who was a principal parishioner in his o difid n t e e . . chief city , could be by them Mr Adam

e C lt answered , that by that reason when he is angry at any minister in the country he may , if he will , have him transported , the preparative whereof i v had already passed at St . Andrews , wh ch is ery d angerous . Upon which the king called him a seditious knave , and asked why he supposed such ? “ . o a thing I suppose , he added , Mr Adam C lt would steal neate (cattle) , then he should be

1 06 INVERESK PARISH LORE . and the declaration by the Scottish Parliament that the royal prerogative extended over all

s — persons and causes what oever civil , commercial ,

n and ecclesiastical . When he had so pla ned , his Majesty commanded the attendance at Richmond f o e . Mr . Adam C lt , Mr Andrew Melville , Mr . James

Melville , Mr . James Balfour , Mr. William Watson ,

Mr Mr . William Scott , Mr. John Carmichael , and .

Robert His of Wallace . letter to Mr. Colt was the following tenor

To OU R TR STI E l vi MR U be o t . and weill , ADAM

O of. G C LT , Minister odis Worde att Inveresk , att

f Mu s ilbu r h hys house o Inveresk near c g .

R . JA MES , Tru s tie and weill belovit we greit you hea rtilie weill . “ Our earnest desire to en terta in e that ha ppie

Kin dem e of d peace of the Church of oure g Scotlan , quilk with grit care and tra vell we left u n ivers a llie

ou r b established therein att removing hither , evin since ffrom tym e to tym e beene manifested be our ltres to maist of ye Synods of that Realm a n d to divers of ou r Commissioners be missives and in s tru ction es verba ll w a n d , als weill als in riting , more pa rfa itlie ratified be letters w ritten to ou r Cou n s a ll with ou r aine hand purporting maist clear testimonie of ye con s ta n cie of oure luvo to f w all weill af ected members of that bodie , hich be procla m a tion es a n d im pren tit decla ra tion es wes 10 MINISTRY OF MR . ADAM COLT . 7 l k ewis e s olem n lie u blis hit n otorietie y als p , als ye

wu ld be u n kn a wn a ls thereof to none , but such through s en s eles s n es s e would naither heare or s ee ; hevin n a thles n es s e so little preva lit with some in

wilfu ll credulous , , ingrate , and malicious disposit

a ls persons , some of them have nott forborne rash

a u theritie lie to centenne and disobey oure , charges

s tu bborn lie and commandements , and so to persist in theire contumacie als theire malicious obsta n a cies hes forced u s to intende greater rigou re agin thame thann oure in clin a ciou n e alloweth . Yitt ff , farre lesse thann thair o ences did deserve ; and u thers have pres u m it in Pu lpitt fu llis hlie to j u s tifie ye obstinate and malicious proceedings of

bretherin w s la u n deI e thair , and there ith to oure

la u chfu ll roceedin s of juste commandements , and p oure Cou n s a ll ; a ls also ye Syn odis bein requ irit be oure letters (and Com m is s ion eres ) directif to

r ffor a irtes s a e ffa r thame , to p ovide thair aine p , ff as in thame laie , to gi us assurance that certaine actis es ta blis hit in fform er Assemblies necessarie ffor yee weale and peace of ye Kirke pa rticu la rlie ex res s it in s tru ction is p in oure sent unto thame ,

ordea n it n ot to maie be be thame bee propound ,

t m As s em blie treated or al ered at ye ixt Generall , quilk we know n ow toe bee fiitte toe bee u n tu iched

ow er a s t m en tion e and p att ye samen , than that aine s ou ld of tha irb e occa is ion e bee mayde thame , leest y s ou ld arise of dis tra ctiou n e in ye Kirke and offence 108 INVERESK PARISH LORE . toe ourselves ; Yitt thay s ee littel rega irtit ye a irn es tn is s e of a n s owers u ni oure sute , als thair vers a llie ris in t dela e tendit toe ane p y , without anie assurance of thair performing att ye As s em blie of that quilk ffor thair ain weill wee s ee a irn es tlie u r itt u ha irin fin din d o os itiou n e g , q a masquera e pp toe oure just petieiou n e than we culd ever have ex ectit p in any such case , these things and uther w eichtie rees ou n es m ovit heerb e to l , have us y wi l

ou a s de n ot tee and command y , all excuses sett y , faile with diligence to repaire towa irts u s b eefoire

15th m in tin t w e ye day of September ixt , toe ye maie that daie beginne with yourself and suche

' u there of your bretheren a ls we have k n a wn toe of bee gude learning , judgment , and experience , and com m a n dit likewise toe bee heere att that s t m e treete w ou amen y , toe ith y in matters con

of ou r s a de of cerning ye peace y Kirke Scotland , and toe mak oure constant and unchangeable fa voure borne toe all du tiefu ll members of that

m a n ifes tlie k n a wn u n toe u ha irb e bodie , you , q y yee maie be bound inn du tie and conscience toe com form e ou r odlie m ea n in a n d yourselves toe g u toe hear tr ue witnessing ffor j u s tifein ye la u chfu ll

off in ten ciou n es nesse all oure and actionnes , als w ha ill eill concerniu ye kirke , als ye particulaire members tha irof; and that it maie bee manifest te e all ye w a rld that w e haie em ba s s ed ou rs elfe for gevin s a tis fa ctiou n e toe all that are of that

0 11 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

to tion to oppose them . Little is there surprise , t who hen , that the other seven prominent ministers recei ve d letters similar in purport to the on e we

’ have given were not eager to Obey the king s call , l but , along with Mr. Co t , held counsel together what was to be done .

n They had other duties o hand . which they re solved first to discharge , having been elected as representatives from the Assembly to attend the meeting of the Scottish Parliament at Perth in

ou t — July . That done , they set for London some

s ea . by , others by land Any misgivings they entertained were more than verified by the treat w ment they met ith after their arrival at Court .

of w a s Outwardly , a show respectful recognition d manifeste , but underneath this gloss was the most transparent design to compass their defeat and to downfall , and force them into becoming traitors to their country and their Church . Space forbids entering into details of the open and surreptitiou s of ff of plans adopted , and the shameful e rontery the minions of the king in their serpent - like sub

f For tlety o attack . months these tactics were

on e pitilessly plied , but not of these brave Scots men could be found base enough to sacrifice truth

. l and duty , even to please a king Andrew Melvil e to the was basely condemned Tower . whence he

’ was n ot released till after four years confinement his nephew James to perpetual banishment from 1 MINISTRY OF MR . ADAM COLT . 11

s ix Scotland ; and the other , Tytler incorrectly

states , were allowed to return to Scotland , but

were not permitted to settle in their own parishes . “

As . regards Mr Adam Colt , an order Givin at

u h tha ll 10 160 ou r Court at Q y (Whitehall) May 7 .

w a s sent him , signed by James , and countersigned “ oc , , by Marr , ‘ Dunbar Secretar toe g home and be con fyn it w ithin hys awin pa roche at Mu s s il burgh ; and we incline to the opinion that the

other five were similarly dealt with . An ex

edien t s d p this , apparently sugge te by the well known punishment of “ confinement to barracks ” w which defaulters in garrison are a arded , and was of therefore , in the case these faithful ministers ,

s all the more reprehen ible .

the 162 In year 7 King Charles I . appointed a Royal Commission to collect information regarding the several parishes of Scotland and their Endow

ort - ments . F y nine only of all the returns then

on e obtained have been discovered , and of these is that relative to this parish . It bears to be “ An u ris s e . d maid be Mr A ame Colt , Minister

Eva n ell I n u eres k a l ia s of the g at the Kirk of ,

Mu s s ilbu r h Pres b terie g , within the y of Dalkeith ,

’ n Wern eu r ba lleis of Mu s s il and be Joh , one of the

Dow la s a n d Wern ou r burgh , Robert g Robert , all

ortion a ris I n u eres k m p of , and Tho as Hunter, in

Cows la n d I n ha bita n tis , within the said parochine , a n d electit the and chosen be said Minister , and PAR ! S H O INVERESK L RE .

Lordis Com m is s ion a ris T sworn before the . o the articles set doun be thair lords chips and con ten it ” to d in the charge direct the sai Minister. The report proceed 1 . In the FIRST we declair that thair ar of m Com m u n ica n tis ii 3000 tha irb j ( ) or y.

2 h il s . The a l landi and rowmes within the said

a roche m le p ar about ane y to the kirk , except the

Cows la n d u hilk twa m toun and landis of q is yles .

3 . Our said kirk is not united to na uther kirk

is of a roche Du m ferm lin and it ane the p kirks of g,

Ma es tie tha ir f and the Kingis j is patrone o .

4 . . decla ires I the said Mr Adame Colt , Minister , that I have of yeirlie stipend for serving the cure at the said kirk iij c (300) m erkis money a n d I ’ Chalder a ittis (oats) payed to me be Sir Henry

Cha lm erla n e Ma es tie Wardlaw, to his j out of His

H ien es s of Lords chi of Du m ferm lin rentis the p g, With ane part of the Vicarage of the said par oc hine of I n u eres k pos s es t be the gen tilm en and heritou ris of the landis within the same ilk man for his awne part ffor the whilk they s ou ld pay i f i hi li i f me yeirl e ou rt e s c l n g s for ilk pleuch o land . ‘ Ane uther pairt of the said Vicarage (qu hilk is the tien d fifche) were pos s es t be the m n qu hile Erle of

Du m ferm lin g and now be his Countess , for the

u hilk eirlie ii c q hir tacksman pays hir y j money , and the Vicarage tein dis of the croft of land ca llit

erten in the of Mu s s ilbu r h the Holmes p g to burgh g , ,

114 INVERESK PARISH LORE . and thair ar s u n drie small teinds and dewtics founded and doit for ane and specially thair is ane

ca llit chapelle Magdalene Chapelle gifted to Mr . Robert Creichton for the quilk he gettis yeirlie

v of u h x j lib fra Mr. David Preston Q ythill (White

croftis b hill) . Item thair ar four land es yde Mu s s il burgh pos s es t be the Laird of Craigmillar and a ne a ik er ca llit - Aiker e \V e the Rude , and twa riggi know n ot be what form or manner nor for what dewtie but we suspect they belang to sum a ltera ge within ou r said parochine and thair are sum a n

Crei h n n u a llis V pliftit be Mr. Robert c to furth of certaine hou s is in Musselburgh We know not qu ha t way nor be what richt and title . “ of u s. cha la n reis 7 . We knaw uther p , prebend aries , nor frier landis within our said parochine . Then follow particulars regarding the teindable lands in the parish , which may be thus sum m a ris ed

r r H ol er xten t P op e ty. d . E .

Cows la n d Lord Ch a n cellor 40 h us band lands La n ds Ma ynes of Ca rba rrie J a m es R ig 12 pleu ch la nds La n ds M a ynes of Sm eton 32 oxin ga its Inveres k The Ki n g 13 pleu ch l a nds

Mon k ou n ha ll 1 u a s o o s 8 u c a ds t ( ) Fe r p rti ner ple h l n .

Mon k tou n l x H a 5 u c la ds A e . y ple h n Q uhythill (2) Edwa rd Pres ton 3 pleu chil a n ds S ton yhill Robert Debbie 3 pleu ch lands F M MINISTRY O R . ADAM COLT .

Pr H older. Exten t. op erty. Pinkie (3) Earl of D u n fermlin e 15 Oxin ga lts Q uhytes ide Robert Fa ws yde of 1 pleu ch l a n d th a t ilk Crofts heys de Stock worth Mu s s elb urgh La ird of C ra igm ill a r 1 Ch a lder a n d Ta rres s Croft H ew Brown Tein d a t (Teind a t 6 b oll s ) 8 boll s

A perusal of this interesting report reveals how Church properties were taken possession of with ou t scruple by private persons for personal ends with the connivance of others whose care it should

a n d have been to prevent such appropriation , it

s o of d shows how , even near to the time plun ering, it was most difficult for influential persons on the spot to Obtain accurate information or to get re s titu tion of made , from the want any authentic to records which they could have recourse . On the other hand it shows the minister of Inveresk and the laymen associated with him to have been fearless in the discharge of duty to the delinquent “ ” n n o and suspect , granti g privilege and making n o distinction , and actuated with a praiseworthy regard for the interests of education and the of relief the necessitous .

NOTE S —1 n ds a ds of Sir om a s Ou tt r . . Tei in the h n Th e ou s a c s m a n to n 2 n ds a ds of h e , t k the ki g. . Tei in the h n the “ Ea rl of Du n m 3 s e a n d n ds of old a d fer line . . The t k tei p i ou c a de s a n d n ew w c a d s b u t s c of f r h l r t enty h l er , in re pe t the ” m u u d of la bora ris the o s a s we ltit e , rep rter y , think the 116 INVERESK PARISH LORE . s tok m a y pa y yea rlie com nw n ibus a n n u s in tym e

a d s An oxin a it or ox a n co a n d c s x ch l er . g g g nt i e thirteen a re

- — - a h u s ba nd la n d wa s two oxin ga its or twenty s ix a cres ; a

u c a d or ou a wa s oxin a its or on e hu n ple h l n pl ghg te eight g ,

s dred a n d four a cre .

118 INVERESK PARISH LORE . — eccles ia. a u d I n u eres k p , that is , Session Book of the Church at Inveresk . It contains , in

old - - s beautiful fashioned hand writing , particular “ of the receipts and debu rs em en ts for the

1 - 1 I ts o 655 669. peri d first page is headed ,

a n u a r 2 1655 J , , The which day Richard Calder wood entered Treasurerfor receiving of Collection s ” and penalties for the Burgh part , and its second ,

Mon k ton ha ll The which day Robert Hislop , in , entered Treasurer for receiving of Collections and ” a n u a r penalties for the Landward . An entry , J 19 1655 to , , shews the retiring Treasurers have “ accounted for their intromissions for ye year ” 1654 to at meetings held that day , and have

t . handed over all money , documen s , etc , in their of charge . In the inventories these , the newly entered Treasurers acknowledge respectively as “ follows : Item , Twa Silver Comunion Cups , “

s d. Rot. Item, received also by ye Hislop , ye two

o of Thes a u rer Comuni n Cups silver, ye Burgh w having ye other t o. These are the earliest known written records of

Or the Old Communion Cups . When , where , by

or o whom, made ; how, fr m whom , obtained , seemed points never likely to be ascertained . But the unique and splendid collection s hewn in the

on e Edinburgh International Exhibition , in which of d d of these cups was inclu e , invested the subject old o m u Sc ttish Co m nion Plate with fresh interest, 11 OLD COMMUNION CUPS . 9 and the curiosity to learn more thus excited came to be fully gratified . Upon all silver articles made during the seven teen th of t century , Acts the Scottish Parliamen

ou r required three Hall marks to be put . Each of of of cups bear these, the stamp the maker, the

of . place where made , and the Assay Master These marks , carefully examined and compared with the

’ of Records the Edinburgh Goldsmiths Hall , by

of n of favour Mr. Michael Crichton , Deaco the 18 89 Incorporation , , prove that all four Inveresk

in 1621 cups were made , at Edinburgh , by George

Crawford , a Silversmith , who made the Newbattle 1618 of cups in , and was twice Deacon the Incor — i n 1 1- 1 ora t o 62 3 633 5. p , , The Assay Master who stamped them was James Den n is tou n his name is

wa s sometimes spelled Danielstown . He a member

f 1 1 - 1 4 o 6 3 6 4 . the corporation , of 8 The dimensions the cups are , full height , 3 of 4 of inches , diameter base, g inches , diameter

6 f 27 o . bowl , ginches, depth bowl , } inches On one ,

o of is in the b ttom the bowl , engraven a Shield , having three crescents within a double tressure

- flow ered flowered and counter , in its first and

on fourth quarters , and three cinquefoils a hori zon ta l i bar in ts second and third quarters . The d ’ escutcheon is surmounte by an E arl s coronet , a “ crescent , and the word Semper, around the “ whole being the motto N60 cede a dvers is r ebu s INVERESK PARISH LORE .

” n ee creole s ecu n dis , which freely rendered reads ,

con fi Neither retreat before adversity , nor put

' dence in prosperity . of of This coat arms , which we give an illustra

of of Du n ferm tion , is that Alexander, first Earl

in on e of the line , who owned Pinkie House , where

r rooms , he had these armo ial bearings placed , with. horses representing Liberty as supporters , and this V ery motto . These still remain in excellent pre servation .

In design the cups are simple , chaste , elegant ,

- the outlines graceful and well proportioned . The only ornament used is a band of exquisite chas ing round the base . These cups are historic

f a monuments o no common value . So long s the Church confined to the clergy the cup of — — blessing as it is called by St . Paul small chalice cups alone w ere used ; but among the changes ff e e ected by the Reformation , all b lievers were admitted to partake of the Sacrament of the Supper in the manner appointed by Our Lord ; of and , in token this , the Scottish Reformers “ directed large silver cups to be provided ‘ for

Sacramental use .

I n a letter written by the donor of these cups , 24 1621 “ h From Pinkie , May to his maist onour

off r able good friend Sir Robert Ker, Anc um , in

’ ” H ei hn es s - the Prence his g bed chalmer, as given

’

. of in Mr George Seton s memoir Chancellor Seton ,

122 N I VERESK PARISH LORE . volum e of the Register of the Privy Council of Scotland gives an excellent idea of the general hu bbu b F r which that event occasioned . o the

r royal progress no thwards in May, preparations

re were begun in the preceding January , and qu is ition in g upon a scale n ew hardly conceivable wa s put in operation . Every parish had to furnish its quota of carts properly equipped with competent

or a of drivers , and any failure l ck punctuality of entailed a heavy penalty . The joy welcoming

King James VI . must have been considerably modi

fied by these exactions . Nor were the demands

s f r confined to providing tran ports o the baggage .

for The royal pantry had to be plenished , and it , Musselburgh was stented to provide a dozen fed

- oxen for the feast making at Holyrood . When this happened , Mr . Colt was still in the active of discharge ministerial duty , and doubtless Lord Dunfermline and he would both s ee that the burgh , which four years earlier had received a to Charter from Queen Anne , proved equal the emergency .

3 rd 1641 Mr . Colt demitted his charge June , and was succeeded by his s on Oliver who had taken b 1621 d his M . A . degree at Edin urgh in , receive

162 wa s license 7, and ordained and installed helper 1 2 of 6 . 3 . Mr Oliver Colt was a member the

s of 1638 A sembly , and was presented to Inveresk by Charles I 14th May 1641 He became his O OLD COMMUNI N CUPS . 123

’ on 3 rd on 4th father s colleague , and his successor

June following . of In the diary Sir Thomas Hope the entry ,

u de . Att sevin in the morning g Mr Adame Colt ,

decea s it my Regent , and minister at Inveresk , , 24th ff Fryday , March shews the a ection

f him . cherished or by his distinguished pupil Mr .

’ Colt s ministry left behind a good record . He “ is spoken of as hevin much repu ta tion n e ffor

a wis dom e of le rning, and pietic , and ane those a ccou n tit eminente ffor grace a n d giftis of faythe ” f u llness and success .

When Mr. Oliver Colt succeeded to the full charge of the incumbency the lord of the regality of Musselburgh was John , second Lord Thirlstane , of whose son became the Duke Lauderdale . This

n Bru n s ta n e Joh , Lord Thirlstane , built Manor

1639 on house in , and thus had a residence the of border the parish , Pinkie having been expressly withheld from the grant of Church lands which his

d. father, Chancellor Maitland , receive

’ or F the first ten years of Mr . Oliver Colt s ministry no records remain , but it scarce admits of doubt that regular minutes would be made at the of d time . The manner in which those later ate have been kept warrants this being presumed . 1638 of to In , the sixth year his assistantship his father, Mr. Oliver Colt must have witnessed a

m As me orable event upon Musselburgh Links . 124 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

I who Commissioner from Charles . , had been in of pupillarity under Lord Dunfermline Pinkie , the Marquis of Hamilton came to Scotland charged to dis com fit the covenanting Presbyterians . Upon the links of Musselburgh he was confronted by of to thousands that party , and all the way Leith had to pass through their ranks . d 1649 . f In Charles I perishe upon the scaf old , and the following year found Oliver Cromwell in

’ Oliver Colt s residence at Inveresk . By this time the latter had added to the paternal dwelling , and

own m had placed his onogram over its entrance . d of 1650 Of the eventful perio in the autumn , when Cromwell was at or about Musselburgh for

m s a couple of months , any particular can be gathered from his letters written thence , and from the incidents noted by Nicoll . Both agree that the

on 25th English army reached Musselburgh July.

Shipping came thither with stores , and trenches were thrown up . On the Wednesday after the

’ arrival of Cromwell s force a recon n a is a n ce of its position was made by Colonels Mon tgom erie and

' Stra cha n e 8 00 s kirm is fn n with troops, and some g

Both a d took place . sides claimed to have the 3d vantage . On the August Cromwell sent in in his awn Koa tche and in k a irts out of Mu s s ilbu rgh

60 wounded Scots taken in the late skirmish . The little knoll on Musselburgh Links opposite Lin kfield House is still regarded a s the spot w here

12 6 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

u f m ln a o t o es . r he had t ken the y killes , and be nis of Mu s s ilbu r h a irts g and other p thereabout . In

’ dis crim a te making free with other people s property ,

on 27th however , Cromwell sternly dealt with , and

September, he had three men flogged for plundering houses in Edinburgh without permission . When at length he found it necessary to return to Eng

- to M land twenty eight boats belonging usselburgh ,

Cokk en a n d Prestonpans and y were requisitioned , proceeded to Leith to assist in the embarkation of those they would gladly See go . (s ma rter XI I .

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY RECORDS .

HE oldest records connected with Inveresk Church are a volume of minutes of the 1 1 1677 65 . Session , Nov. to Aug , and a

- of 1655 1669. volume Parish Accounts , Remark ably full and carefully kept , these two books furnish a wonderful insight into the parish life , and testify to the activity with which church

’

- office bearers looked after parishioners . The fol lowing are given as illustrative of the contents of these volumes — 1 1 . 4 65 . . , Dec Complained Wm Bell , miller , upon Wm . Nicoll , that he called him a thief ; the bill being proven the Session ordained him ’ o m t mak his repentance the ixt Lord s day . — 11. Dec . Compeared Wm . Nicoll , miller, before the whole congregation , and made his repentance for his slander against Wm . Bell . For the punishment and reclamation of trans

res s ors of g the pillar repentance , sackcloth , the d branks , and money penalties were recognize of methods discipline , and when these failed or ff wa s an o ender contumacious , the case 127 8 12 INVERESK PARISH LORE . was reported to the bailies that imprisonment might be inflicted . Of all these means being of employed examples occur. Breaches the third , fourth , seventh , eighth , and ninth commandments are most frequently in evidence , but the attention of the Session was by no means confined to de a ling of with business this sort . ,

A Scottish comrade of an Irish artillery - man

di to a in In a, used tell how , when the bl ck cook came on e Thursday evening to enquire what was

for wished breakfast next morning , Pat contem “ la tivel p y scratched his head and said , Let me see

’ I can t ate mate to - morrow because it is Friday ; to then , overcome the difficulty, he compromised “ ” a the matter by ordering b con and pluck. But Inveresk folks were just about as nimble at turn ho ing a corner at a pinch . Here is w they managed to take the edge off the fast day “ 1 2 R i hd 4 65 c . Januar. , , Calderwood did become f 2 cautioner under the paine o 0 lib. money that there should be no extra ordin a r meat made ready

’ Sm ea ll s ba n u ett n att Robt . q it bei g a fast day .

Many such entries are met with . On January “ 18 th is a memorandum to intimate about the repairing of the kirk against the mixt S a bboth ” of day . At that period the fabric Old St .

’ a Michael s must have been s dly decayed , and notices of its requiring repair at considerable ou t “ 1 —W . 9. e lay frequently appear Januar , Janet

1 0 3 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

Wheru pon the said John Ma is s on appealed to the ” presbytery for reasons he was to give in there . A 24 week later, Feb . , another competition about w “ a seat is met ith . My Lord Cranston Ma kgil produced ane Bill anent ane seat in the church . The Laird of Smeaton in presence of the Session f took instruments in name o himself agt . my Lord Cra n s tou n Ma kgil that the voyd and em ptie room before the wester left is yett in contes t as on e of

a irties All a irties the p themselves declared . p that had interest in that voyd rowme before the wester

w a s loft being removed , the Session content that the business should be referred to the presbytery ” with the former applications . Seats at that time w ere evidently in request and the Session appear

fi to have had dif culty in satisfying applicants . Bailie John Calderwood made an applica tion with a pawky way about it when s o many were cra n ein g

to n their necks secure chief seats in the sy agogue . The bailie produced ane Bill before the Ses sion to have a s n u ch (snug) bounds in the southmost pairt

’ n ixt to Cra igm illa r s yle (aisle) before the ba illies

w fe lb s he seat, as would be ane seat to his y q y might the more conveniently hear the Word of

’ to God , and he referred himself the Session s will whatever they should inj oyn e him to pay for ye samine . The bailie evidently took the Session on the soft side , and he had his prayer granted ,

4 wa s to . lib. being all that he called upon pay 1 1 SEVENTEENTH CENTURY RECORDS . 3

Other five gentlemen obtained sittings on the 2 — 5. to s ame easy condition . April Memorandum choose ane Laik (lay) Elder to gee to the Synod w on 2 ith the minister , and May , Bailie Stevenson

1 — Widders oon 6. is chosen . May Patrick p , is w ordained to put up that seat hich he pulled down , and is ordered to pay 5 merks for his m is de meneur . Robert Donaldson is ordained to make his public repentance mixt Sabbath day because

tin ker of . . his scandal agt Wm Moore , , which — did 20 . he . June The Session with one voice c d on escends that the minister, Mr Oliver Colt ,

’ should have as much room from West Cra igm illa r s seat towards the body of the church as would be ane seat for him and his family. Memorandum to

coa lhew ers warn the of Whitehill to the Session . — B 2 . ou n r 5 e . July David , Wm Todd , David

Galbraith , Wm . Stevenson , Robt . Barrowman , (presumably these coa lhewers ) Compeared and on

l s a . t Aug , m de their repentance for their profan 1 — ity on the fast day . Aug. . The Session ordained David S ellerm a n to pay ten pounds for receiving strangers without advertising the minis ter or the baillie . Intimation made to desire all that have promised , to produce their testimonials — i 8 . before the Sess on . Aug . Robt. Simson and Agnes Ramsay acts themselves under the pain of 5 lib . and putting of them in the branks not to — s on e Nov. candalize another ever after. 7. The 132 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

Gen tilhn en and those of the Session condescend that there should be a new pulpit . The baillies and s es s ion ers of the burgh are content to pay half the expense of the pulpit with a ll that is n ot pre judical to them in time to come . Memorandum

Dis a m itin of Cou s la n d Dis a m ittin anent the g , g w ritten over another word obliterated . 2 1 — 653 . January , The which day John Mack n a ith was elected treasurer for the burgh and

M n k u n h ll f r Wm . Smyth in o to a o the land

1 1 — i n 6 653 . con d e ds . . s c ward Oct , The Session that there should be a collection for Thomas Thomson in Mon ktou n that had his house brunt wh fire desires intimation made there anent

i a h the n xt S bbet day . The Session condescends that the weekly sermon be upon the Wednesday and desires the minister to in tim a t the same ix h 2 — n t Sa bb et . . 5. the day Oct James Brown ,

a n d Robt , Strachan , Wm . Smyth are appointed

’ to speak to the La wyeres anent Adam Scott s Bill h — 30 h. w . t the minister. Oct Collected and given

50 . to Thos . Thomson that had his house brunt , lib

Ma r u blic gt. Hadden made her p repentance in sack v 1 — o . 6. cloth before the congregation . N The Session con dis cen ds that there be a ps al m e sung be the pres en ter before the minister comes in beith

1 1654 . the morning and att afternoon . March , To tak notice of a woman that was delivered of a

h f f a r a rri . child in t e back o the hill o C b e. The

1 34 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

E n r 1654 24 — di . . Com Synod at in May May . pea red Elspeth Gilgour and Margaret Davidson for

fl tin re u eis ts y g being cited , whereupon the Session q the baillies to put thir twa in the branks to be 12 — example to others . July . The Session requests the baillies to report to them what course they Wm should take with Jennet Bishop , Jennet

ha d to son , Helen Martin , who paid no heed the

’ Session s summons . Apparently this application to

f on the baillies had ef ect for they appeared Oct . 3 of , and came under a penalty ten pounds if they ever misbehaved again , and , in addition , all three were ordered to be put in the branks . Memer to andum for a contribution the prisoners . d 24 — fors Gen till Sept. . The quilk day the men and elders of the Session being frequently convened they did change the weekly sermon

a 1— to Tu s d . . 3 be upon the y y Oct The Session, requests the baillies to imprison Barbara Hintoun 1 for her disobedience to the Session . 655 opens to with Memorandum choose a new Session .

— M r h 28 a t. w o Feb . Gives g Brown , brought a tes tim on ia ll she is m a ryed to 3. Carlisle man a 15 days to bring a tes tifica t from under the

’ min ister s hand where she did last reside . Bessie Fowler put under a penalty of ten pounds that she shall never be heard to abuse any elder or any

To to s cholm rs n other neighbour. speak the a ent their schellers for fringing the Sabbath day in 35 SEVENTEENTH CENTURY RECORDS . 1

29— of tym e of sermon . April the laird Craig d millar is elected ruling elder to go to the Syno . ” 2 — of Ca rba rries libertie May 9. The laird receive “ l kw s e to make his seat more convenient , y y that t w fu rm es he cause repair his yle (aisle) , (forms), that s o the common people may have the more convenience to sitt upon , and he is also called “ upon to strike ou t lights (windows) that the h church may be better enlightened t by. June 1 — 9. The which day the minister declared that the stamp mould for the communion Tikk etts which was always in the custody of Andrew Calderwood wa s a s com m in of lost , he said , att the g in the

English army , and so desired the treasurers to take a course for a new one in respect the communion was approaching , and there was hope it might be

l of des red given . The bail ies in name the burgh y the stamp might be helped , and seeing the old writts of the kirk did designate it by the name of

Mu il h I n u eres k s s b . n ot the kirk and , they had been prejudiced by the old stamp that ca ryed the

I K I n u eres k the name of . . for kirk , the which they

m m m in of des yred to be helped in ty e co g. Some the landward present answered that there could be no alteration of the stamp seeing it had for threttie

fou rtie or years been so , and no reason it should be

n ix changed now . The business is referred to the t f day to a more full meiting o the Session . June 26 , This was anew considered , and to avoid any 1 6 ’ 3 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

needless debate two representatives of the land

. ward and two of the burghal portion were appointed to confer together and endeavour to arrive at a

friendly solution of the point in dispute . On July

15 wa s the subject again before the Session , and in the interval the landward representatives had

I K Q C. procured a stamp bearing the letters . . and

standing for Inveresk kirk and Oliver Colt . The b u rghal elders protested against this and consider

able feeling was manifested on both sides . Event u a lly the case was appealed to the presbytery after 24 both parties had taken instruments . July . The heat shown at preceeding meeting reached a of greater intensity , and a regular bicker words took place upon baillie John Brown producing a stamp and a number of tokens bearing the letters M w C . and Q C. hich he delivered to the kirk

a t treasurer for the burgh for use the communion . For a couple of years the difference continued and neither party shewed the slightest disposition to o bring ab ut an agreement . At length Mr Oliver of Colt , desirous a settlement , proposed to the Session to refer the point in dispute to the joint

Ston e hill judgment of the Lairds of Smeaton , y

Ca rba rrie and , as representing the landward , and

’ MMilla n a s re re Bailies Brown , , and Calderwood p senting the burgh , to try and arrive at some arrangement that m ight be satisfactory to all

19 1657 a s concerned , and on th July a compromise

138 INVERESK PARISH LORE . tion with each of these there were three week day

- d services . A tent was erected in the church yar and from its services communicants proceeded to the tables in relays . Repeated entries occur of Mr

d 100 s Adam Colt , the minister, having han ed merk “ on e to i t to of the treasurers , furn sh the elemen s ” to the commun ion . At the communion of 1 and

8 1658 £74 l 6s June the collections were burghal , ,

6d 1 120 l a £45 9s 8d. o £ 6 . , Landward , , , , t gether , ,

2d for . Scots . Payments included such items as

of fu rm es a n d expenses taking down the tables and ,

£3 . aill and bread for the servers at communion , i £1. Washing the communion cloths , Mend ng the ”

bred ni 12 . . gang that held to commu on wye , s Dec

9 1 — s of 556. , The mini ter produced an Act the to Synod holden at Edinburgh , in relation a second w minister to be a helper to him , where ith they were all weil content with provision they will fall upon a way for his maintenance : whereupon they did nominate eight men ; 4 in the burgh and four in the landward to meit upon Friday n ixt to s ee if they could fall upon a way for his main ” ten a n ce and report and answer to the Session .

n or This they do not appear to have done , is there any minute to show Mr Oliver Colt to have got d the helper he and the Synod wished appointe .

1 — Mr is July . George Sutic , portioner , Inveresk , des red s y to become an elder , consent , and is admit ted ; two days afterwards he makes application for 1 SEVENTEENTH CENTURY RECORDS . 39

f £20 for of a seat , of ers the use the pew for the privilege which the Session accepts , but about 12 w on . hich some objection was taken , and Aug , “ Mr S u tie submitted his business to the Laird ” — of a rb a rri 1 58 . 5. C e . 6 himself , Jan Anent the little house at the North Stile to be mended by the

11 —J ehn of Treasurer. May . Masson , portioner

on e of of own Inveresk , and the elders , his motion to made over a seat the Session , for which his father

1i n 20 b . o had paid , the condition that seats and da s k s be there erected for the schollars of Mus ill h s b . v school , which the Session were ery weill

W illin lie pleased with , and all in one voice g d ” 26 accepte . May , the quilk day ane overture being made by some of the Session anent the extracting of the Acts of Session they ordained that every Act that is made should be n ixt Session of day read in the audience the Session , to see

or whidder no it be conforme to their ordinance , and that it be n ot granted or given ou t to any quilk somever untill it first be heard , seen , and

—~ hill d 25. on e approved . Oct . Laird of St y electe

Edr 22 ruling elder to the Synod at . March , 1 5 6 9. The minister communicated a letter which came in relation to a contribution to help to big a bridge upon Tyne water. The Session all and everie one of them that were present refused to

or to consent give any contribution to that object ,

w n ot t in respect they ere able , but were grea ly 140 INVERESK PARISH LORE . burdened with a number of poor people and i l orphans . The illustration g ven of these O d

: 12 minutes includes in it the following July , — 1659 The Session ordains Andrew to go to James Smyth and his wife to debar them from sitting

’ any longer in Wm . Smyth s seat except it be i w h s . ith own concent . All this ado about seats may be attributable to Cromwell ’ s having used the of of church St . Michael to stable the horses his d ragoons , and the fashion that came into vogue of having fixed sittings in presbyterian places of w orship . — t 1 . r o Aug . 9 The Session des y ed the minister in term itt the weekly (week day) sermon during

t m e of n ixt the y harvest , and to intimate Sabbath

3 S a tterda — Dow la s day . Sept . , y Robert g in Fis herra w became cautioner under the paine of 20

on lib. , that there shall be no feast made Charles

’ ’ on Hog s child s christening , it being a fast day 24— e . the Sabbath . S pt Compeared Thomas Cathie

’ and Helen Cathie s s on for carrying burdens hi Ma r t. Lowt a n upon the Sabbath day , also g

des red compeared for that samine . The Session y the minister to rebuke them . They promise never

do of . to the lyke again , being sorie for the doing it

4 - r rrie n Wm . f a b a . o C Nov . Rig elected ruli g — 2 . . . 5 elder to the Synod . Dec Compeared Wm

Fis herra w Younger in , and is ordained to stand in sackcloth the first and last day . Neither his

142 I NV EREs x PARISH LORE . widow could hardly find consolation in this method of l or dea ing , the more likely learn that the o L rd loveth those he chastens . 1 1 — 5 66 . Nov . , The Session and the baillies des yred the minister to m a k intimation out of the u l itt p p anent Janet Stoddart , who was imprisoned of upon the suspicion witchcraft , that if any people has any thing to lay to her charge they was

’ w n or considerably to come ten twelve dayes , w D other ways they ould imitt her, in regard she

Ma is r was great expense to the g t a tts .

1 1 2 — n fi v ri 66 9. tt t e e e , Dec The Sessio think hat

’ S a bb oa th da y in the collecting of the poor folks money that there be an elder waiting on to help to wt collect ane other ordinary man , in respect it is reported that the vulgar sort of people without authority dis tribu tts the collections to severa l per

wh r h i l li suns o attend at the po c and style n e d es s e.

’ f f a of Corroborative o the antiquity o St . Mich el s 0 : . 3 Inveresk are such entries as these Sept ,

1 — lk w eiil 666. The q day the Session being con vened after intimation ou t of the pu lpitt for repairing of the ruins of the fa brick of the kirk

’ Cra i m illa r s which is above g yle , they did elect some of their number to meet upon it a n d to take cognisance of the samine how it shoul d be best “ d 20 — w a s . . It 1668 . repaire Oct , motioned that the

fa lin timber of the steeple is y g, and a workman ” v was ordered to be employed to iew it . Again 14 SEVENTEENTH CENTURY RECORDS . 3

29 1677 on May , , two hundred merks expended finishing the steeple as also for poynting the body of the chu rch with sklates (slates) and lime where

ha d of e there been great need , and a committe is appointed to fix what proportion of the expen di f ture each heritor had to pay . The appointment o a special week - day service served to provide an opportunity for the celebration of marriages in

to be church , for which there were certain dues applied to the relief of the poor. The desire to be singular made itself conspicuous even in 12 1667 this , and on Mar. , , the Session put those parties who sought to be different from other people on the higher level for which they longed , and ordained them to be charged twen tie pounds

S f r u e f cots money o the s o the poor . Complaint had been made even earlier that newly m arried couples were escorted to the kirk by multitudes of

people , and their kirking was made the occasion “ of feasting, which was to be thought upon att ” lengthly . 1 70 20 — D 6 . reddon , March John Wilson , George ,

l ki r r . S e e s r and A ex Smart , pp in Fisher ow , made an application for sittings on behalf of the rest of

their incorporation , which was granted upon a pay o of ment for the beh of the poor, and to be the

’ of first the Fisherman s Loft . It must have been “

on 22 . 1676 in a dark corner , for Feb , a window

’ to left the Seaman s is condescended to . 144 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

— I 8 1674 . t . ou t Nov , was intimate of the u l itt p p be the minister , that those who are able and yitt give nothing in to the b red for the use of the

h ir f e a ter. poor , that they amend it If the short comings Of those able to give were thus pointedly

w a s proclaimed , an equally sharp eye kept on the f ’ 22 1 — . l o 675. k receivers poor s money June , The q

ac t day it is ordained , according to ane former , that those within the parish who goes a begging from l house to house shou d only geit half a merk a month ,

oes and those that g not to have a merk . The parishioners were much pestered with beggars com ing from a distance , and to distinguish the local poor all of them who asked for alms were ordered by the Session to wear a badge upon their breast. 24 — of Oct . . James Richardson , younger , Smeaton ,

’ of in respect his father s inability , Sir Adam Blair,

of Ca rba rrie of younger , , and Alexander Hay Mon k tou n were proposed and approved for the eldership . The minister called attention to the large number of parishioners who were ill with bloody flux and in a starving condition : that the sums received at the church doors were inadequate to meet present necessities , and proposed that a charge of 40 shillings be made upon those who desired to have the church bell rung at the time of funerals as

wa s was done in other parishes . This agreed to .

’ Another expedient to increas e the poor s money wa s a levy made for permission to erect grave stones

EMO R I L TO N E W II ER E U EN RY U R R E R E D M A S Q E MA S NDE .

C ha p te r X I I I .

— X PARISH FINANCE VII . CENTURY .

HE careful attention given to the administra

tion of monies entrusted to Kirk - Sessions

for of to the use the poor , and the general

finance Of the parish , is well seen in a volume of a , accounts which cover the fourteen ye rs from

1655 to 1669. In these a regular system of

- book keeping is followed , and the receipts and

s et disbursements are down distinctly . Towards the close of each year new Treasurers were elected by the Session for the landward and burghal t portions of the parish , who en ered upon office

on of as the first January , but did not intromit with any monies till an audit of the preceding

’ e s treasurers books had been mad . At these audit

’ an abstract of the retiring treasurers accounts was drawn up and recorded , followed by an enumera

e tion of the securities for money at int rest, and all else for which the newly appointed treasurers would be held responsible . For example , at the installation of treasurers for 1665 on January 19 146 — X 14 PAR ISH FINANCE VII . CENTURY . 7

z— I m rim u s it is thus entered Burgh Compts . p

Thes a u rer Johne Smart , , is charged with ye col

for 1654 wch lections ye poore for ye year , 8 12 8 2 6 lib.

wt es i n ed It penalties, pands g and

lost and annual rents , extends to 8 2 the s ou m e of 1 2 lib . 0 4 8 14 8 Sum m a of his charge is 6 lib .

n out His discharge , give for sup plying ye poore for ye year 1654 3 4 lib 14 0 extends to 6 . It for repairing ye kirk which was

summed , at ye easter loft , ye pillar

of repentance , the place for bap i m 0 0 0 t s s 9 lib . 4 14 0 Summa is 4 5 lib .

SO of rests frie money, which the said Johne is to give in to Richard

w Thes a u rer Calder ood , for ye year 1655 off 14 0 8 the sonme lib . It ye said Johne Smart delyvered to d Rich Calderwood ye Thes a u rer as follows

I m rim u s of f 14 8 . O p superplus o his compts . lib of 8 m 1 Then comes list bonds , , headed with ( ) Ane h obligation granted be the toun of Mu s s ilb of her w f 1 4 o 9 6 3 . ro ed money Jaj mks , ye date Januar , In the corresponding vidim us of the landward 1 7 6 4 5 . accounts only lib , , is Shown to have 148 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

for of been required the relief the poor, being less than half what the burgh had had to dis ? t of tribute . For the second i em discharge , this treasurer has pands es ign ed at the marriage re del vered 1 y 1 lib . 9 0

’ for i of and the th rd , a duplication the burgh s pay of 0 4 ment for the repair the Kirk 9 lib . 0

e Among the obligations handed over is , a not be

S t e Tho o , Ro Ro Robt, Nemm , F rman Douglas , bt

to thes a u rer for Vernor, Younger, the Kirk ad v n in f 2 wh wa s a c g o 40 lib . payed to ane English wh to troup , they obliged themselves repay . Subsequent entries make it clear that this m oney was used to rid the landward part from a threatened quartering of an English troop upon

' of the a ccou n t- e it . On folios book the coll ctions i of at the Church are seen , those to the cred t the

on on e on the burgh page , those for the landward “ of who opposite . The names the elders waited upon the collection are stated , and the amount received is summed up monthly . Into this branch of the accounts the penalties exacted for certain ”

. a d delinquencies are entered In another part p n s , and charges for n on - compearance are separately accounted for . Immediately after the folios first

’ mentioned detailed lists of the recipients of poor s money are given , and payments otherwise charge able are also included under the respective headings of B u rghal and Landward . A wide latitude was

150 I INVERESK PAR SH LORE .

J 2 18 . a s . for £ 8 . curious diversity Lindsay is paid ,

a curing a distr cted boy at Inveresk . A captain

’ wa s 2 who in the king s service receives 4s . a

30s on 4s gentleman ; a stranger riding a horse , ;

58s a gentleman named Maxwell , ; a stranger who

18s had a recommendation , ; another from the

who h a d 24s on e north , apparently none , gets ; £ 5 £ 1 12 deposed minister receives , another Ship 1 2 broken men get 23 . Frenchmen that were 8 2 s . 6 shipbroken , ; seamen who were robbed , for

2 4 3 s 3 s . 0 4 meat and drink , ; Frenchmen , ; Dutch

12 5 10s 2 24s men , s . ; sodgers , ; cripple sodgers , 8 s . a sodger that came from France , a soldier that

’ m tila t 12 a rba rri s u t . C e is , s ; a gentleman at desire ,

£3 6s . ; an Englishman, a traveller , ; an English

£ 4 r gentleman , an Englishman that had a p inted

2 or 18s . 6 o £ . £ pass , , a stranger, Wm Murray , a p 1 2 . woman that came from Dundee , s ; a stranger

20s from Dumfries , ; while a poor woman from

- a Tweedmouth gets 6s . ; stranger in the Queens

6s . ferry, and a man with a plaid and poor woman

- f d must be content with half o it . Perhaps the plai

and poor woman w ere thought an equivalent . for f “ the dif erence . A cripple transporting often ’

occurs , that is sending him on to the next parish

that he may not become a permanent burden .

Stranger folk did n ot fare badly . A passenger

2s 0s 3 . 3 scholar receives ; three strangers , ; a

58s : gentleman at the Presbytery, David Fer — . 151 PARISH FINANCE XVII CENTURY .

guson , who had a recommendation from the

£6 on e ou t of Estates , ; but who came Argyle ,

6s only ; Thomas Wood and his wife in Dalkeith ,

24s on e who ; in Ormiston , is infected with dis £6 ease , Helen Dobie , for quartering strangers , is

8 M n k n h l f £4 s . o to a l or paid , and the constable at ,

6s . quartering several French sodgers , Laurence

s on £4 . Forrest , to give his , gets ; Wm Brown ,

s on £20 on e bursar, to Henry Brown , has half

’ Gowrla w year ; and Archbald , for John Gay s

r n tis s 24 12 e e £ . s . 2 N v 1655 £ 9 o . p , , was given 7 for the burning at Edinburgh to mak up the 400 ” merks .

Of payments connected with the kirk , a woman

i 6s to for clean ng it gets , a book hold the names

£1 16s of those who died cost , a Psalm Book, ,

’ ” for i Kirk Bible min ster s use and examine book , 14 £ . Costly books these ! Paper for long and

com tSI £1 4s Grin la w 200 tickitts short p , , Adam for

1 8 s £ 6s . d. 4 , , a letter carrying , a key to the trance ff door a key to the o ering house door , north

6s 24s style , mending key of steeple and others ,

1659 £2 8 s water basin for the baptisms, Nov . , , , a glass window to the seats behind John Cathie ’ s

36s the £7 l 6a seat , glass window to Wester loft , , repairing Wester window . the Wester loft door , snecks and locks and the North style mending

£4 11s £7 4s 2 Tirla s , , glass for Session House , , y

£3 4s . for the Wester loft window , , a window in 152 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

’ Cra i m illa r s £1 2s g yle mending , , mending the North kirk style which wa s spoiled with rain

1 4d s fu rm es 3s . 6 , mending it again , helping the

12 . in the North style s , mending the kirk gavel

18 s o to £8 8 s , timber and w rk South style , , 4 l 1 . e to 38 £ s . lime for the kirk dyke , , t wes the bel That is more economica l than splicing the bell

rope . The Slater however had a heavier account . i 10 s kla tes £4 s . A hundred to the kirk cost , , more 1 15 8d. £ . for carrying them , s , lyme and sand 3 £ 6s . s to , ; George Thom on for his work the kirk

wh his £9 l 4a for 18 s m ~ drinks , , more nails , end 20 d 6s £ 95. 8 . ing the sarking , a nice little bill of , to At the time which these accounts belong, the kirk had a source of income from the Justices of “

c . the Pea e All that is stated about it is , Given

of or of by the justice the peace of the burgh , the

1 0 4 8 38 66 £ . wa s landward . In from the former , 0 e £3 . received , from the latt r Whether from this

or cause some other , the Magistrates and Heritors came by- and - bye to wish to examine the kirk

’ a s treasurer s accounts as well the Session , and the question was taken before the Presbytery d 30th 1702 “ which decide , June , that they may be present to satisfy any doubts or j a lou s s es they

s the may pretend to have , but that the Ses ion are proper judges in these matters . In that decision all parties acquiesced . 27 1665 of 13 8d £ 68 . to On June , a payment , .

0131) a p ter X I V.

X CLOSE OF VII . CENTURY .

OMENTOU S changes were witness ed in the period with which the two preceding

u r fii a c chapters deal . P ritanism and p o g y had in turn their swing , Presbyterianism and W Episcopacy their innings . hen the Rev . Oliver

wa s Colt began his ministry Charles I . king and f the patronage o Inveresk was in his gift . But when Roundheads gained the ascendency , Mon bow archy and Cavalier had to their heads , till another turn of the kaleidoscope recalled Charles

’

o . II . to sit up n his father s throne While State ff a airs thus underwent revolution , and Monarchy ,

Commonwealth , and Restoration had each their f o . turn , the parish which Mr Colt had over m sight was not outside the whirl . The me orable sittings of the Westminister Assembly in the l Jerusa em Chamber began two years after , his settlement . To its sessions , extending over five to b of years , have be ascri ed the Confession

Faith , the Shorter Catechism and the metrical

’ version of the Psalms which are Scotland s heri of tage . Lord Lauderdale an heritor Inveresk ,

of i of and lord the lordsh p Musselburgh , sat in 154 L SE r X 155 C O o VII . CENTURY .

on e of that august meeting, as the elders elected to sha re in its proceedings by the Church of to Scotland . It can hardly be uncharitable class his lordship with those who were Presbyterian

or for the sake of plunder, Prelatic when it

a served their purpose . The inscription pl ced upon his monument in Inveresk Church lauds him loudly : history paints his character in other

n colours . With this fawning courtier and fa atic persecutor pastor and parishioners had to do .

on e From him the burgh received of its charters , which fittin gly contains express power to put accused to inquisition , to inflict torture to extort of incrimination . The pressure his iron hand can be seen where the record of church life is a b r l u pt y broken . During the troubles of 1645 the minister of Inveresk had a protection from the celebrated of Montrose, and when Cromwell took possession his residence he sought shelter in Dundee . On the closing day of the year 1660 he probably witnes sed the meeting of the Earl of Middleton with the nobles and others who had horses , at

Musselburgh , which must have been reckoned a

f for great af air by all with monarchal leanings , ’ “ n ha s of as Nicoll s accou t it , the town Edinburgh met him there . But everybody did n ot regard all this trouble and trial seriously and s o Grant tells of a curious 1 6 5 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

- fis hwives foot race , to be run by sixteen from Musselburgh to the Ca n on ga te Cross for twelve

’ of ha rr i a ls 1661 of pairs lamb s g , in , which inti

on e of of mation appeared in the papers the period . This exhibition of athletics m a y ha ve been harm ‘

in of less enough itself, and the nymphs many petticoats may have enjoyed the fun , the winner even have been proud of her prize ; but it may be taken to indicate a wild rebound from the strictly decorous conduct for which minister and l e ders had vainly striven .

At London very different business was on foot .

P n resbyteria ism had been banned , Episcopacy had

a n d of been blessed , a batch bishops for Scotland received their consecration in Westminster Abbey . Tytler tells that they made a triumphal entry into

on Edinburgh their return with a numerous retinue , w including many needy aiters upon Providence , and we learn from John Nicoll that , the Arch d of . a n bishops St Andrews Glasgow , and the of Bishop Galloway , were received with great

on T s da reverence and pomp at Musselburgh y y,

8 A r ll 1 2 p y 66 . o be With these hist rical facts in view , it must considered creditable to the steadfast adherence of to 7 Mr. Colt to his convictions that , onwards 16 w . 7 Aug 7, hen he had reached his eightieth

his on year, the minutes of Session go without a break , and their cessation at that point may well

158 O INVERESK PARISH L RE .

’ Colt s elders attention has been called in a re markable manner . When it became necessary to excavate to a considerable depth to find a solid foundation for the Organ Chamber in the ea rlv of months the present year, an elaborately sculp d tu re tombstone was disinterred . Of its reverse side we give an illustration . It is n ow placed in the entrance lobby of the church . Once cleaned , it wa s ascertained to be in memory of William of of Smyth , Clerk Musselburgh and portioner

M un a in ha ll o t . How full the records of the period are is shewn by the details they disclose concerning to this personage . He has been ascertained have

on e of - to a s been the kirk session , have acted a

of a s collecting elder, as a server the tables , an of auditor the accounts , to have taken his turn o as kirk treasurer, to have been an adviser up n of questions difficulty, and to have been Session ” idelitis Fecim u s o Clerk . The inscription F up n “ his monument, which may be rendered We have ” to done faithfully , appears have been well deserved . It will be observed that this William Smyth is

f u n a in ha ll described as o Mo t . To shew that t his spelling of Mon kton ha ll was n ot unusual there is an entry in the books of Old Greyfriars Chu rch

‘ MNeill Yard bearing that, Andrew , in Mountain 14 hall , was shot April that is by the City

Guard , under Captain Porteous , at the execution

f d Gra s s m a rk et o An rew Wilson in the . With 15 or . 9 CLOSE XVII . CENTURY the installation of a new minister another order is in force . Lauderdale , now Duke , is paramount ,

and the appointment is given to Arthur Millar , M of A. Dumbarton , a clergyman reputedly as much distinguished for piety as for his a dher

ence to the Episcopal order. He entered upon his 9 168 0 duty at Inveresk June , and continued in its l 3 168 9 discharge ti l May , when he preferred to of submit to deprivation his charge , rather than yield obedience to the proclamation of the Estates

and pray for William and Mary . In this nominee of of d n of the Duke Lau erdale , the fi er features the period and a conscientiousness of belief make them

for of selves seen , which those his way have too often received little credit . Mr . Millar removed

t to n to Lei h , and became pastor the Episcopalia s

n 22d 1 18 there . He was consecrated o Oct . 7 a

bishop without a see , but was appointed to the of 1 d diocese Edinburgh in 727 . He ied before ff installation into that o ice .

’ For five years following Mr. Millar s expulsion from Inveresk no successor appears to have been i f appo nted . The passing over o the storm is indi ca ted by the way in which the new incumbent A M received appointment Richard Howieson , .

of Cock en 10 Au minister p , was called g , and to 18 t 16 4 was admitted the charge Sep , 9 . He v 0 w No 1 0 . t o died in . 7 Of these incumbencies

there are no records . ( II/ b a nter X V .

X . N OPENING OF THE VIII CE TURY .

T the commencement of the eighteenth cen

' of tury the Marquis Tweeddale , Pinkie

of I nn eres k House , Sir Robert Dickson ,

of Sm ea tou n Sir James Richardson , Sir William

of Wa ll ford of Binning y , and Sir William Sharp

Ston e hill of y , were the principal heritors the d of Al l w lan ward part the parish . these ere to acquiescing parties to the call given Mr . John f s on o . Williamson , the Rev David Williamson 4 1 02 f on 1 . o . 7 St Cuthberts , January This i ’ call was most harmonious , and Mr . Will amson s ordination marked the beginnin g of a lon g and

wa s . faithful ministry . The call prepared by Mr

R of s obert Vernor, Town Clerk Mus elburgh , and is engrossed in full in the Minutes . The whole procedure is recorded in detail , the appointment of of of s a Committee Heritors , Heads familie

’ E to and lders obtain the presbytery s concurrence ,

of the that having been obtained , and the edict

’ f r m Presbytery appointing the day o Mr. Willia son s “ ordination to be Thursday the last day of April ” instant . No time was lost in entering upon

or parish business. On the Sunday following his 160

!

s a s on of Smea o n . Sir l a Sir Jame Rich rd t u , Wil i m.

a lon g a n d

a nd iders to o ta the e er . condurren ce E b in pr sbyt y , tha ha vm e o ain e a n d ti of edéet of the t g be n bt d ,

’ -" Presbytery a ppointing the day for Edr. Willia ms on s

160 W ’ M. MYTH S TO MB S STC NE.

E 162 I NV RESK PARISH LORE .

Nea tou n Cock en from the pulpits of Inveresk , , p ,

F or and ala . A new south stile , porch , collection house was again required , and the accounts incurred were appointed to be paid : for m a son

fiftie s work , pounds Scot ; for wright work and

s for of nails , eight pounds Scot ; and three pair

of creek s two bands, and a pair , and bolts , seven pounds fifteen shillings Scots . Immoral conduct must have been very prevalent

. to when Mr Williamson came Inveresk , and cases of of discipline were frequent . The perusal such

s of entries present a painful picture , and the manner dealing with them app ears n ow more fitted to harden

u than to lead to penitence and contrition . A curio s entry in connection with a case where the delin quent ha d been compelled to stand on more than on e occasion at the church door in sackcloth is met 26 1 0 . 7 3 with , Jan , , when the Session is informed “ he is taken on to be a soldier and incarcerated to

1 0 a . 9 4 be shipped April , 7 , Margaret Ducat p pea red and confessed to the Session that she had been married by an Episcopal minister, from whom h f s e produced a certificate to that ef ect . All

two s parties concerned , including the witnes es , were ordered to be referred to the Ju stices of the

5 - two Peace . On April 2 twenty new elders are nominated , and , no objections being taken , Tuesday, i of . ninth May, was appointed for their ord nation 4 1706 e June , , The elders that went through som 1 . 63 OPENING OF THE XVIII . CENTURY parts of the paroch in time Of sermon reported that they found some people bringing in kail (cabbage) t and water, upon which the Session appointed hat

’ intimation be made from the pulpitt next Lord s Day that such evil practices may be foreborn here t after , and particularly hat masters Of families doe take care that their children and apprentices be ’ 3 1 06 . 0 7 kept from profaning the Lord s Day July , , Twelve pounds Scots is sent to help build a har bour at Irvine . A protracted business with a

thrawn schoolmaster and session - clerk occupied the Session a long time before they coul d recover minutes made by him on scraps of paper to enable

be the records to written up , and forms a subject 1 0 . . 3 7 6 in many meetings Dec , , Minister reports “ ” that his house had been broken by thieves ,

s ta u n chion s although the windows had iron , these

s ub s e having been pressed out , and that several quent attempts had been made to effect an entrance . That he had lost a number of valuable things , and had had to keep men watching his ff house by night in consequence . He O ered to be of at greater part the expense , if the Session would sanction darkening brods and bars for the whole lower story of the manse and pay the remainder, to which they agreed . At this meeting the non of payment the Ordination Dinner cropped up , the Session n ot considering it fit that it should be charged in their accounts, but after explanation 1 4 6 INVERESK PAR ISH LORE . given it wa s allowed on the express condition that the trea surer seek in that money from the Heritors or any who employed him to make ready 21 . . s that dinner On Jan following , the trea urer reported his diligence in pressing for payment , but that he could get no satisfying answer or expecta

ni tion that he would be paid . The mi ster here this ou t , stating he had spoken freely on the subject to to Sir Robert Dickson , whom he represented that

s who it was scandalou that he, the patron , had taken such a prominent part in cal ling him to be minister should not see it paid , since he had

s ordered the ordination dinner. But Mr William on fared no better than the treasurer, Sir Robert telling him he had already paid his share to John

Ba lie Duncan , writer in Edinburgh , his y and the said John Duncan being dead the money had

wa s n perished with him . Nothing co sequently to

b e to . . 28 1707 done but authorise payment Jan , , ’ i This day s collection being nineteen shill ngs Scots , is ordered to be given to John Wilson in Ca rba rrie i and his family , who are in a very indigent cond

500 for tion . The Session at this time had merks, which they found great difficulty to obtain a “ " 20 s sufficient borrower. On April the Ses ion desire the minister to buy the Acts Of the General

Assembly as soon as he can for their use . From

. 2 to N V 15 1 0 n o 4 O . 7 7 Sept , there were meetings of of the Session, and a special entry by way

166 IN VERESK PARISH LORE .

use of carts to overlay the even walks between ” them with gravell . The Magistrates and Council t received the deputation graciously , gran ed their

request , and passed an act thereupon . Aug. 26. Meeting was held with Sir Robert Dickson a n d

Sir Wm . Binning relative to building seats in the o of b dy the church to this all parties agreed , but before proceeding “ they appoint the minister to acknowledge the Duchess of Buccleuch and Mar of quis Tweedale and other principal heritors , and likewise that he acquaint the Magistrats of Mussel ”

NOV . 4 . . 9 burgh with this design ean Crombie ,

relict Of Robert Guthrie , schoolmaster in Inveresk ,

’ petitions the Session to be put on the poor s roll , being in necessitous circumstances since her hus

’ band s death . The Session appoints her to receive

a - twenty shillings Scots month , to commence from

the beginning of the month , and the minute is

expressed in sympathetic terms . On the same day the Session consent to the building of the manse i close dyke, considering how inconven ent and dangerous it was to have the minister’ s house so

the tim e much exposed , the latter undertaking at , to advance the cost thereof . How pleasant it is to

. 1 7 17 6. find such an entry as this , Feb , The Session here think fitt to Observe that though we frequently mett there were no delations or other

wa s to or business that needful be recorded , this on 3 s July . There have been frequent meeting of Y 16 OPENING OF THE XVIII . CENTUR . 7 the Minister and Elders during this interval but — there having been no delations there wa s no for

a of mall constitute Session needful . These indic tions a marked improvement in morals and social condi

s tions , entirely accord with what those historian who have the most attentively studied the question assert to have been the result of an energetic effort to provide for the education of the people . They affirm that in a quarter Of a century the difference wa s remarkable , and here it is seen conspicuously of perceptible in the ranks a community , the con s titu en ts Of which ranged from the humble peasant to the peer Of the realm . Mr. Williamson who helped forward and witnessed this change wa s a of of man Singular endowments , a clear head , ready wit , forward and successful in debate . Possessed of considerable literary ability he pub lis hed of a number works , and took the position in the Church Courts which his talents qualified d fil . 2d Feb 1 4 38th him to l He ied y. 7 0 in the hi s 60 . year Of ministry , aged years ( Muns te r X V I .

GLOOM FOLLOWED BY SUNSHINE .

EXT in succession to Mr. John Williamson

e the incumb ncy was held by Mr . Fred .

Carmichael , M . A . , and his appointment involved the parish in the distraction and discord which lay patronage wrought in the Scottish

Church . The gifts and graces which he proved to be possessed Of did not avail to make his presentation the less obnoxious . It has been truly said the Church Of Scotla nd ha s always had a way of her own ; and her most faithful sons have ever been the men who might be led

be but would not driven . The memorial in which the Elders of 1740 presented their views to His Grace the Duke Of Buccleuch on the occasion of a vacancy deserves to be accounted courteous ,

- wa s : high toned , earnest . It in these terms Memorial to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch

- by the Kirk Session Of Inveresk . The peaceable settlement of a duly qualified minister in this of parish being a matter very great importance , and the office of Elder requiring of us that we should contribute ou r outmost endeavours towards 168

170 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

Mr . Frederick Carmichael having been mentioned

to ou r as a proper person supply vacancy , the dutiful regards we owe to your Grace on many accounts make us heartily wish that n o just ex ce tion s p could be made against him . But we are sorry to find ourselves bound in duty to acquaint

’ ha s Porte u s your Grace , not only that he read o s Act in the strictest manner and on that account is very unaccepta ble to great numbers of ou r parish ion ers s o , but moreover , has weak a voice that some of ou r number who attended when he prea cht at

’ o Prestonpans Kirk c uld not hear him , although they were not at the greatest distance from the pulpit , whence we conclude with great certainty that he will not be heard in Inveresk Kirk a s e ea b ing much larger than that Of Prestonpans , y , it being the only Kirk in Scotland , perhaps , which necessarily requires a strong clear voice . We do n ot take it upon us to name any person to your Grace in this Memorial least it should be mis m construed , presuming your Grace has heard Of ore than on e minister who w ould be accepta ble to ou r

to s a Constituents , we beg leave , therefore , only y that we flatter ourselves your Grace ’ s nomination will meet w ith n o Opposition if any minister with an established character is named , against whom none of the Objections before mentioned ca n be made , and at the same time we persuade ourselves that your Grace will steadily keep in View the O O BY 1 1 GL OM FOLL WED SUNSHINE . 7 peace and welfare of the Parish in naming a

ou r minister to supply vacancy . That this memorial may be someway a u then tick it is by appointment Of the Session to be transcribed and signed in name

- De s . u t Of the Session by Thomas Young, Ses Clk p . The day after this appeal to the patron of the

wa s Parish agreed upon , the Elders having taken a night to sleep over it , had it again read to them

r and s a w nothing to amend o withdraw . It was accordingly directed to be signed and forwarded . w But it was disregarded . This sho s how the 1 4 of 6 7 0 . settlement a minister was managed , July ,

This day the Session desired that what was done .

30th of Geor Munday , June , in the Meetting in ,

he . Inglis , his house recorded . which is as follows The elders being called at eleven of the clock forenoon to the fores d Thes rs house by Baillie Lindsay not being acquainted what they were to

B n l do . o a , Mr y being present , my Lord Drummore ,

b s his Sir Ro ert Dick on , Mr. Grierson , factor for

Grace the Duke Of Buccleuch . After prayer, Sir d Robert Dickson desire Mr. Grierson to present to r the Session a Mode ation for a call to Mr. Frederick Carmichael which was accordingly presented and

a n d read over , after reading the same , Sir Robert , a &c. , insisted th t the Elders should Sign it , to which they all conjunctly refused .

’ SO inauspiciously was Mr. Carmichael s intro

n o duction to the parish heralded , minute appears 1 2 7 INVERESK PARISH LORE . of his ordination or any entry to convey the impression of his having received a hea rty welcome by his future parishioners . What the Session feared seems rather to have come about . Mr . Car michael was n ot orda ined till 15th April following his presentation , at which date it is recorded a Committee of the Session had a meeting to tran

’ s a cte some routine business , but Mr. Carmichael s name or the important matter of his ordination is “ ” e industriously absent . Three days b fore the “ on e of ou r solemn event Thomas Brown , Elders, gave in his demission as being an Elder under l Mr. Carmichae his ministry while here . Likewise

Geor. a d John Mitchell , George Hill and Inglis ’ a hered to the s me . Before this unhappy business reached its climax the Session went about its affairs in a very prae

on e to to tical way , and step taken bring relief prevailing distress is creditable alike to them and to V 2 4 e NO . 0 S s . . 9 17 Sir Robt Dickson On , , the sion received a letter from Sir Robt . Dickson , the purport Of which can be gathered from the resolu tion which it led them to take . The minute “ a the a of n rrates that they , considering sc rcity victu a ll wa s victu a ll to , and hearing that there be l gotten in Eng and much cheaper than in Scotland , the Session therefore have resolved to lay ou t on e

u h ndred pounds sterling, which is immediately in

’ victu a ll the treasurer s hand for buying up the said ,

1 4 7 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

S O his East wind . possibly he found it in ex perien ce with plenty to do and little time to do it in .

’ to He was translated New Greyfriars Church , 1 4 1 . 7 Edinburgh , Dec 7 , upon a presentation made of by the Town Council the city . The last entry previous to his lea vin g Inveresk is in his own handwriting and authenticated by his signature , in which grateful acknowledgment is

a n d made Of the faithfulness diligence Of Mr. Arch .

H a n da s de re - y , treasurer, who the Session elect and continue in said Office .

’ to Mr. Carmichael s election another charge is never noticed . From the City Records it appears he was ca lled of 4 174 to be minister New Greyfriars , May , 7 , in

a s . e to succession to Mr . J Stevenson , translat d Old

on 15 Greyfriars April , but whose entry thereto was suspended till the va cancy s o created is sup

On 0 1 52 Mr n 3 . . f . o plied July 7 Geo Kay, mi ister

’

. to the Gospel at St Cuthbert s , called unanimously be minister Of the New Greyfriars in place Of the

- . to deceased Mr Frederick Carmichael, his stipend

’ be paid ou t Of the City s Duty Of 2 Pennies on the of Pint . From the same source the cost building the church and providing its communion plate

s o came . In expending its revenue the city Simply implemented on e of the conditions upon which it

ta x on Obtained right to impose this ale . C ha p te r XV I I .

MINISTRY OF DR . CARLYLE .

N the morning Of the Battle Of Prestonpans

- a young man Of twenty three , an Ex V Edinburgh olunteer, was taken captive by the Highlanders . Managing to escape he k betoo himself to the belfry Of the parish Church , and from th a t advantageous position beheld the of t fight and the rout the royal forces . Tha

s on young man was Alexander Carlyle , of the f minister o Prestonpans . Three years later he of became minister Inveresk . He studied at

Glasgow , Edinburgh and Leyden and used the opportunities these universities provided to good purpose . The position he was able to take in social circles , among distinguished literati in church courts made him widely known , but did not prevent him discharging his proper fun ction s . Parish memories of him are still cherished a n d passed on . Older folks at the beginning of the present reign had many traits to tell regarding him , and he was spoken of with unfeigned admira tion . And little wonder. If a man may be judged by the company he keeps and the companionships 175 176 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

’ ff he forms , Carlyle s memory will not su er eclipse the more these are inquired after. In his Auto biography, the very features in his character

ha s many lament the absence of , he studiously left unlimned . He does not tell that he was on e Of the very earliest enrolled members Of the Select

on Society , his name being ninth the list . That society met in the Advocates ’ Library every Wed

’ ' n es da 12 NOV y evening at six o clock, from . to

12 Au a n d n g , adjourned its sitti gs punctually at

f r llifia i n . o o c t o nine It was not a society j , but for the discussion of any subject except such as ha d

l or regard to Revealed Re igion , was concerned with

a iti m the principles of J cob s . It consisted of Peers of of the Realm , Judges of the Court Session , Pro fes s ors of Edinburgh and Glasgow Universities , r Clergymen , Physicians , Surgeons , Advocates , A chi m teets , Writers to the Signet , Officers in the Ar y ,

. on e Merchants , and private gentlemen Of its hundred and nine members it m a y safely - be said by far the larger number deservedly rank as dis i h tin gu s ed Scotsmen . This information regarding of the society is taken from a manuscript copy , its

Roll and Rules . 1 In 760 Mr. Carlyle was nominated to preach before the Lord High Commissioner, a recommend ation which stirred up Opposition , but after all was

a agreed to without a vote . It is the only c se where objection has been taken in like circum

“ In his Auto

’ n es da a t SIX o f om - 12 NO to oc V . y evening cl k, r

‘ the discus sion of a n y s u re rd to Re v a le Rel o ga e d igi n ,

“ ' the principles of Jam - 4 5s

" Q in the la rger nu mber des ervedly rank a s dis

a T n m i r a rdi Scots m n. his i for a t on eg ng

Roll a n d Rules .

' 1 Mr e wa s n ominate to ea h In 760 . Carlyl é pr c be o Commis s mn er 0 reco m ‘ fore . the L rd High , m end a t r os ut M was ion which stir ed up opp ition , b a ll w here objection has been t ak en K V E . LEX LY E D D . . R L . A CA ,

1 8 7 INVERESK PARISH LORE . and pastoral diligence ha s been formed from a study Of his autobiography only , and proves him to have had a high sense Of the duties of his sacred of d Office, combined with a keen enjoyment goo

for living, as then understood , and an intense relish intellectual pleasures . a From these interestin g p pers , we make selection of m in u te on the following , written the first page of of a sheet foolscap paper in neat , distinct, and

. d firm handwriting, by Dr Carlyle himself, and uly authenticated by his signature , and bearing on the “ ” a . b ck the titling, Proposal for Sunday Schools It is in the following terms 1 1 s t 790 . Inveresk , August ,

o wa s At this sederunt , the Following Prop sal laid before the Session by the Moderator “ That whereas it has been Found from experi ence That Many of the Children of the Lower

’ ’ h lea rn d Rank in this Parish , Tho they ave to ’ or Read in their Infancy , yet Thro negligence ,

’ en a d their Being early g g in some Business , are in Danger of Entirely forgetting what they have been

Taught . “ And whereas the New School for Teaching of Young Girls a branch Manufacture , However o usefull in other Respects , necessarily ccupies all their time in week Days , and makes it Impossible for them to attend Masters for Reading and the of Principles Religion . 1 9 MINISTRY OF DR . CARLYLE . 7

And whereas Multitudes of Children of both

’ sexes are a llow d to Run about Idle the Whole

’ Lord s Day , which tends to Breed them not only in

for I n s titu Ignorance , but to Irreverence Religious tions, and consequently to Dissolute Manners , It is

’ Thought That a Sunday s School or two in this of Parish , which have been found so much use in

Populous Towns, will help to correct Those abuses , and to prevent these Evils

’ ro os d It is therefore p p , That an attempt shall

be made immediately to form such an institution .

The same Day , The Session Having taken the above proposal into their Serious consideration u n a n im ou s l y agreed thereto , and Resolved to send Subscription Papers to such Persons a s may be able and willing to promote Such a Pious under

’ ra is d to taking, That an annual sum may be , pay

Sa lla ries to on e two Masters , in Musselburgh and

another in Fisherrow, and to Defray all other

charges that may be necessary .

ALEX . CARLYLE . It is deserving of notice that this Minute s o carefully drawn and so clearly expressed is thus

- duly signed , in contra distinction to the long observed use and wont of allowing the minutes

entered in the minute - book to remain without the

’ of authentication the Moderator s signature . The next indication Of the Doctor’ s zeal and w activity in carrying for ard this Scheme , is a letter 180 I NV E R ESK PARISH LORE . or a s note from Lady Hailes , follows Lady H il ’ a es s . Compts to Dr. Carlyle , she was sorry she had not the pleasure Of seeing him yesterday but could n ot get away from a Gentleman who had

on n ot come business to Lord Hailes , who being very well was not come ou t Of his room while the

’ ta d Dr. s y .

’ Lord Hailes approves greatly of the Sunda y s

as who e the School everyone must , consid rs miser able consequences Of the want Of ins truction to

u d Children . It would be still better if the F n s would allow of a da yly school for those Children

that are not engaged in work through the week . “ ’ At Lord H a iles s desire Lady Hailes has sub — h ” 5 Newha iles t . £5 s . . 9 scribed , , Sept

In this movement Dr . Carlyle was generously of supported by the larger heritors , the Duchess Buccleuch having given annually £ 10 ; Lord and

Lady Hailes , and latterly Lady Hailes and Miss

3 3 . £ 5 5S . £ s Dalrymple , , Lady Hope , , ; Mrs and 5 £ 5s . the Misses Fisher , , Such is a pleasant glimpse these holograph f ’ papers afford o a side Of Dr. Carlyle s character f little realised . It af ords a picture which shews that even a Moderate might have grains of good

s o d of of ness in him , and not be evoid a sense duty and of willingness to work in a good caus e a s some superior people would s ometimes foolishly o wish us t suppose .

QDlya p te r X V I I I .

THE PRESENT PARISH CHURCH .

1 18 3 - of 6 . 0 N Friday , Sept , the corner stone

wa s the Parish Church laid with masonic ,

military , and religious ceremonial . In the

’ Official programme of that day s proceedings it is

’ styled The New Church Of St . Michael s , Inveresk .

Mu s s lebu r h Lodge g Kilwinning , convened in the

s Town Hall at noon , numerou deputations attended to testify their interest in the event , and a number of the local incorporated trades turned ou t and swelled the assemblage . When all had gathered a procession was formed, and the Masons having pro ceeded to their Lodge in Da m b ra e the initial requisite to what was to fellow wa s in due order

Observed . This building wa s the oldest in Scot I t land then associated with Freemasonry . still

in ta ct . bu t remains with the attendant emblems , is

- n o longer the meeting place of the brethren . Thence the procession took its way to the church in the following order 1 s t. The Magistrates and Council , attended by their Officers with insignia of office and a d military ban . 18 THE PRESENT PARISH CHURCH . 3

The Engineers and architect .

The Grand Tyler.

The Grand Steward .

The Golden Compass , Square , Plumb , and

Level .

The Golden Mallet .

The Cornucopia filled with oats, a silver cup fi filled with wine , and another lled with il o . r A la ge crystal Vase containing Medals ,

c Al Coins & . , an Edinburgh manac on e d itto in which last is written the names of the officers in the Volunteers

of Mu s s lebu r h di g , an E nburgh Newspaper of 13 h 18 t . 03 the Sept , and also a large brass plate on which is engraved the fol lowing inscription

’

. OF ST MICHAEL S , INVERESK , GREAT

ANTIQUITY. The Foundation Stone of this Rebuilt Church was laid on the 16 day of Sep o 1803 tember in the year Of Our L rd , in the 43d year Of the Reign of Our most Pious and Gracious Sovereign George the

d of Wor Thir , and in presence the Right

shipful Charles Stewart , Master Of the Fraternity of Freemasons of the Kilwin

ning Lodge in Mu s s lebu rgh.

In the Year Of Masonry 5803 . 184 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

r G Right Worshipful Charles Stewa t , rand

Master (late Magistrate) .

- Alexander Vernor . Depute Master.

John Taylor, Senior Warden .

Martin Begg , Junior Warden .

David Gullan , Treasurer .

John Kemp , Secretary .

Meir . Robert , Grand Steward of Bu ccleu h His Grace Henry Duke g ,

Patron .

Weem s Francis Charteris y , Earl m of IV ee ys .

ble The H on William Elphin

stone of Carberry . Sir John Hope of Craighall

of Edm is ton e John Wauchope . Miss Christian Dalrymple Of

Hailes . Robert Finlay Esq“ of Wally

ford .

56 Of f In the Year the Ministry o the Rev . l D D A exander Carlyle , . .

Alexander Clark and George Young,

Bailies .

M Mu s s lebu r h artin Begg, Treasurer, g . ‘W . 85 . Messrs Paton hite , Builders ; Robt

Nisbet , Architect . And to defend ou r Happy Country against an

Invasion at this time , threatened by our Inveterate

18 6 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

The ceremonial at the Church over, Divine

wa s Service conducted in the Burgess Chapel , “ Newbigging , by Rev . Dr. Carlyle in a manner suitable to so solemn an occasion . During the rebuilding of the parish church this dissenting chapel w a s placed at the service Of the congregation of the parish church a kindness c whi h minister, elders , and people appreciated , and which deserves to be remembered. By a gift to the Minister and Session of the chapel and a handsome gr atuity to its church - Officer the Session of Inveresk endeavoured to give expression to their gratitude ; while the personal esteem in which the minister and his lady were

n w d held , received ack o le gments that are still cherished as heirlooms in their family. Dr.

’ was Carlyle s letter to the Rev . Alex . Black in the following terms 18 M h 16 3 . us s . 0 Manse , , July ,

AND S IR — I a REVD . DEAR , have the satisf ction herewith of transmitting to you and your Session of from the Session Of the Parish Inveresk , a of Laver or Baptismal Bason , for the use your ” Chapel, of which we beg your acceptance . “ ’ The Frank Goodwill with which you offer d us your Chapel for ass embling those of the

’ E ta blis h d s Church for Publick Worship , for a

’ of i part every Lord s Day , while the Par sh

as Church is Rebuilding , Demanded some l ting H R II 1 THE PRESENT PARISH C U C . 87

Of u s ou r mark acknowledgment from , And it is Special Wish and Prayer to Almighty God that you may Long Continue to exercise your Holy

Function , with the same Respect and Success

’ which you have hitherto en joy d. The P u blick Danger now s o Imminent Dimin ishes in a great Degree , to nothing almost , any

f n t m a small Dif erences in opinio , hat y be between h us , and magnifies t ose Many essential Points

ou r in which we agree , and Tends to Lessen

Distance from each other . “ In on e important Christian Grace That of

of on e Benevolence and Brotherly Love, we are

ou m accord . In this y have lately ade the advance ,

’ n i a d. exc t d set us an Example , which has in us a Mutual Regard which I trust will never cease . “ This I write in my own name and in that

Of s the Session of Invere k , with every kind wish for Temporal and Spiritual Blessings to you and k — I all your Floc am , with sincere esteem , Revd .

ff n and Dear Sir , Your a ectio ate Brother and most humble Servt. ALEXR R . CA LYLE . QElj a p te r X I X .

’ ’

DR . AND MR BEV ERIDGE S MOODIE S .

MINISTRIES .

OLL WI NG O . e l Dr Carlyle , the Rev . L s ie

D. D. of Moodie , , Minister Kelso , was pre to sented the living. Singularly enough he wa s ordained to the Office of the Ministry by him whom he was to succeed . On his appointment to Newton , Dr. Carlyle presided at the ordination ,

2 1 - 25 5 . V 0 69 . 1 . . 7 Mar , , and preached from Heb II ,

. e When minister Of that parish , Dr Moodie mad of t a careful list all the parishioners , and af er to oo his transference Inveresk , he t k the same method of ma king himself acquainted with his

s o r people . In the list made, chu ch connection and other particulars were careful ly noted He

u a n d was a gentleman of culture , but never rob st, won the esteem of his flock by the display of f ’ abilities essentially dif erent from Dr. Carlyle s ,

. oo but none the less solid and practical . Dr M die pursued the course in relation to Sunday Schools on 18 15 which Dr. Carlyle entered , and in was the only member of Dalkeith Presbytery who 188

190 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

i . tions to the sick , the dy ng and the bereaved Ungrudgingly and unostentatiously he laboured

or in this sphere , irrespective Of rank denomina tion a l distinction ; and that these services were n ot unappreciated by his parishioners was shewn on various occasions , when he was presented with gifts expressive of the esteem and affection of large num w bers , many Of hom belonged to congregations ” or other than his own . A truer better deserved

on e Of of tribute was never penned . Of these gifts which mention is thus made but which it is be lieved has not before been noticed in print , it may be pardonable to tell . As is well known the late

Provost Laurie was a medical practitioner, pro

n ou n ced . Liberal , and Free Churchman Somewhere in the seventies he had a serious illness , and his medical brethren u nitedly watched the

its case a n d prescribed for it . In symptoms t n occasion was seen for grave alarm . The pa ie t himself recognized the danger , and in its presence l to particularly desired Mr. Beveridge to be cal ed his bedside . Often before that they had been unable to agree upon many points . Now they

on e were at . The venerable pastor whose long experience enabled him to judge of the pro ba bilities few of of life as could , spoke words hopefulness and consolation to the strong man laid low , and ministered to him in language every syllable of which was full Of meaning . ' ’ BEV ER I DGE S 1 . 1 . 9 DR . MOODIE S AND MR MINISTRIES

Throughout that illness these Visits were continued .

u d The crisis was passed, the disease subd e , and health restored . Again convalescent , Provost Laurie confided to an Inveresk elder that he had

’ Beverid e s Often been a witness to Mr . g attentions to the sick poor, but the experience he had himself ha d Of them made him long to make some acknow le dgment in any way that might be thought most

’ Bev rid e considerate to Mr . e g s feelings The Provost was particularly anxious for the elder to s et f a presentation afoot , to which he Of ered a handsome contribu tion with the warmest cou n ten f hi o s . e ance lady But , when it was repres nted that the gracefulness of the gift would be in ca lcu l ably increased if the initiative were taken by him

he self he willingly fell in with the suggestion , and and Mrs . Laurie entered into the movement heart and soul . If anything could have added to the

wa s pleasure that gift gave , it the manner in which it was given . Without parade or public ado the

his Provost and lady made a call , and quietly placed the sum they had been instrumental in col

’ B verid . . e e leeting in Mr and Mrs g s hands . For d unguar ed utterances and impulsive sayings alone ,

a ct l many remember Provost Laurie , but an ike this deserves better than to be forgotten . In the course of the present year a much respected

Of Justice Of the Peace a Western County, has favoured the author with some reminiscences Of 192 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

many years ago when he resided in Musselburgh .

on e of Among these , the most touching, is the of memory he cherishes occasions when Mr. Beve ridge and he were the alone mourners who followed to the grave the remains of some poor person of whom the great world and the immediate

n o . New P is neighbourhood took account , this J . .

U P or a , and no more lovely appropriate wreath of immortelles could be laid upon the grave of the of late minister Inveresk than such a tribute . of In the vigour manhood , Mr . Beveridge enjoyed a great reputation as a preacher. He was in closest intimacy with many of the leading ministers of the metropolis and frequently officiated in their pulpits . Had he been willing he might easily have Obtained

of e a position gr ater prominence , but with the

who e . people had called him , he pr ferred to abide of In all that concerned the welfare the parish , m he had a concern . Education had in him a war

he d friend , and has been known to take uneducate adults in hand , and initiate them into the mysteries of strokes and pot hooks with capital result . To promising youths he was ever a wise counsellor and a helpful guide . Sanitary questions and healthy homes for the people were subjects near

h 18 64 - 5 his heart. When c olera threatened in , he did not think it beside his duty to tell plain ly from the pulpit that God ’ s sunshine and pure air were meant to be admitted within men ’ s dwellings

192

is the

' of immortelles could be la id upOn the gra ve of the

a t n s e a l e mi i t r Of Inveresk th n such a tribu te .

metropolis a nd

Edu heha d a con cern .

fr en d a nd he een i , has b

Adu lts in ha n d. a n d

prom is ing youths he wa s e ver a wis e couns ellor a a u es ons a n d and a helpful g uide . S nit ry q ti healthy homes for the people we re s ubject. near

a h cholera fthrea ten ed i 18 64- 5 his he rt. W en n , he did n ot

194 A INVERESK P RISH LORE .

r journey round their acquaintances , and the eve y

for Sunday preparative , thought fitting worship , is recalled . With such a commencement , it need not be thought strange that the concl u sion was in keeping. When the minister rose to pronounce the e e to s ee on e b nediction , it shock d few hand

t ou t stre ched to lift the hat , and the thumb and forefinger of the other placed upon the bolt with

- d wa s which every pew oor furnished , that a hasty exit might be made before the last echo of the “ ” s f amen had pa sed away . The dispersion o a congregation in these days was just ab out a s “ ” hurried and unceremonious as the skailing of a school . Sensitive in his feelings and possessed of a musical instinct that had been carefully cultivated , i Mr. Beveridge was an accompl shed flute and Violin player, and the harsh and discordant notes that passed for praise must Often have distressed his

TO of b e soul . the improvement the psalmody

his naturally gave heed , and the choir of Church f to came to be o repute . With the movement employ instrumental aids in the service Of the

a the sanctu ry he early identified himself, and had s atisfaction to find the subject s o generally accept able to his people and heartily supported that a Organ by Con a cher of Huddersfield was introduced

18 1 of e into Inveresk Church in 7 . Out a memb r s - five hip then numbering six hundred and sixty , ’ ’ 1 5 O AND . EEV ER I DGE S . 9 DR . M ODIE S MR MINISTRIES three only were found to Object to the course f proposed , and even these of ered no opposition to

n it being gone o with .

’ Of Beverid e s The concluding years Mr . g ministry were uneventful . As his natural vigour lessened

S O the respect in which he was held increased . long as stren gth enabled he went about his duties d to with rare fidelity , and never eputed another

s what he could himself undertake . Even when o enfeebled as to be unable for any public appearance

the he kept session with his elders, and last meeting held was but ten days before his dea th. Those who were then present can never forget the solemnity of the occasion . On Sabbath morning,

6 1886 a e October , , the summons c m and he entered into his rest . b a v t e r X X.

MEMORABLE EVENTS .

ITHIN of the compass , the present volume little more can be attempted than to give a rapid outline of interesting events con n d f i ecte with the parish . The battle o Pink e is a subject upon which much might be written . Of it

Tytler, the historian , and Grant , the novelist , have

r furnished th illing accounts ; Patten , the chronicler, to l attached the expedition , has left a wonderfu ly fu ll description Of the locality and of the events Of im that sanguinary day . His diagrams , although

in perfect some details , are in the main accurate , to o and enable his narrative be readily underst od ,

i r and his story followed . The Engl sh a my ca mped before the battle nye a ton n e they call Salte Pres ” Fr th on e ou t of toun by ye y , and there banished “ England gave himself U p and was ta ken to ” ws id f a s . a e o mercie F is spoken a sorry castell, and half a score Of houses of a lyke worthin ess to ” of it . From the English camp the position the

wa s its . Scots seen , and strength apparent The Scottish army occupied the ridge beyond the river from Campie level crossing onward towards Edm on 196

198 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

e a n d Muss lburgh , prepared to encounter the Eng

n lish in the open field . Over estimating their ow of strength , a party horse rashly challenged the

dis com fited re enemy , and being completely prepa d the way for the terrible defeat which the Scots w experienced hen the main struggle came .

’ The Duke Of Somerset s skill wa s quick to s ee

n his own the advantage he had gained , and cha ged

to of Es k rove position a point within the grounds g , from which the entire scene could be surveyed and i the movements d rected . The spot chosen is at the m end Of the Long Walk, where a monu ent has been i t erected bearing th s inscription , The Protec or,

9 . Duke Of Somerset , encamped here , Sept The engagement of the following day wa s most

to . disastrous the Scots Beaten upon the field , they

t e a n d were pursued from it , and wi hin thr e hours over a distance of about three miles it wa s esti mate d no fewer than thirteen hu ndred were slain. of l to In telling this tale s aughter , Patten seems have been much impressed with the “ tallness Of

of Of stature , cleanness skin , bigness bone , and due proportion of parts that he Observed among the

was w a s Scottish dead . That day long kno n Black

in Saturday Scotland , and the English after the ba ttle found on Sunday a welcome rest . Says

i Sa in ct Ca n delm a s is Patten aga n , masculine ,

s a in ct. e feminine , or neuter Swete Sain te Sunday ”

e . ye cums ones a w ke The English, left in posses 1 MEMORABLE EVENTS. 99

of sion of the field , gave to their dead the rites of burial , and when in later times the place inter ment was discovered Sir John Hope Of Pinkie ha d a coppice planted to mark the spot . Although the Duke of Somerset proved Vic toriou s in this battle the Object of the campaign. wa s of not achieved , nor was the union the crowns

and kingdoms furthered by his triumph .

Twenty years later within a gun - Shot from the

spot on Carberry Hill where Somerset looked.

w on t do n the Scottish host , Mary Stuar practically

delivered up her sceptre , and began the progress d along that oleful road which led to the block . Despite all the attempts which have been made to

t- extenuate her trea ment , to blacken her character ,

d s i u s ca f and i cred t her faith , her bearing pon the

ds fold she a lustre upon her name . The place Of surrender is m a rked by an inscribed stone which of f forms the subject one o the illustrations .

5 1 s th . 600 i a s On the Aug , what known the d t d Gowrie Conspiracy. was enacte at Per h . Ami the rejoicings at the failure of this attempt to of secure the person King James VI . , a huge bon

d Fa w s ide fire was lighte upon Hill . With very different significance its beacon fire was s et ablaze of 1 18 4 on 3 . 0 the night the False Alarm , Jan . By a blunder of the watchman at Hume Castle the whole of the south of Scotland was dotted with

ou t - d heights sending a ruddy glare . the pre arrange 200 IN VERESK PARISH LORE . signal to tell that the French had landed on British

s . oil One incident of that eventful night, from the of who lips an officer took part in it , may be worth

‘ u of recording . Mr. S pervisor Duncan , the Excise ,

of wa s long a much respected parishioner Inveresk , at the time a young officer of the Perth City Volum d teers . When the distant signal was descrie the bugles sounded the Assembly, and when the corps mustered n ot on e man failed to ans wer the roll of call . Face to face with the realities war the

wa s march was begun , and not till Stirling reached did they learn that a blunder had been committed , to and that they might return their homes . On

2 1 14 of wa 7 Aug . 7 the pulpit Inveresk Church s ” ordered by the Session to be mounted with

for a n d Wm black cloth mourning for the Queen , .

Pa is ton n ot , taylor , was to exceed ten shillings in ’ 1 15 d . 7 doing this Mar s Rebellion , , is thus notice

f N V 15. in a minute o O . The which day albeit we have n ot had meetings for discipline since in this

a s h time Of the lands confusion usual , yet we ave several times met for prayer and conference , and we think it proper to take notice Of the Providence

’ of God in a em en t fforces , Of an g g Of King George s ,

Of R ebells under the Duke Argile , against the , , of under the Earl Mar, upon Sabbath last , the threeteen th Du m bla in e of instant , near , and the

of e for l defeat the Rebell , but we wait a more fu l and particular account thereof.

202 INVERESK PARISH LORE . to Princess Alexandra of Denmark wa s made the

a to occasion Of a fest l holiday , and commemorate the event a couple of trees were planted in the shrubbery adjoining the south - east corner of the new stone bridge by Provost Riddock in presence of an immense concourse .

the Her Majesty the Queen , the Prince Consort ,

Of W of a n d Prince ales , Duke Edinburgh , Duke Of

a ll e to Connaught have b en the parish. Her Majesty and the Prince Cons ort drove along the same Old Merca t Gate along which many a former S cottish Sovereign had passed, and the three royal l D f princes p ayed golf upon the links . The uke o Connaught was a guest at Carberry Tower a n d of Pinkie House , and made an inspection the Car berry coal workings during the time he wa s on duty with his troops at Piers hill. Amon g parish memories the Thanksgiving Ser

in on 26 . vice , held Inveresk Church Sunday, June 18 8 V ’ 7, in connection with Queen ictoria s Jubilee, will have an enduring place . Never before since

the fi its erection had great church been so lled , and hundreds unable to gain admission remained ou t side on that lovely summer day . In that service

n for Presbyteria and Episcopalian joined, the time

ff r di erences were forgotten , and Chu chman and

Dissenter united as fellow - subjects in Offering

n for praise and prayer to Him by whom kings reig , blessin gs which they in common had enjoyed. QDb a p t e r X X I .

DISTINGUISHED PAR ISHI ONERS .

N the long honour - roll of illustrious names

which Inveresk can claim as hers by birth ,

or con residence , proprietorship , service , those ne cted with Pinkie her Oldest residential manor may be given the precedence . Following the days when Abbots of lordly line sojourned in it came

e of — d k epers the royal conscience , lor high chan cellors of — the kingdom , whose names have been already mentioned and Of whose services notice has

TO f T ed a le been taken . it the Marquis o w d 168 8 1 78 entered in , and in 7 it passed by pur a f of ch se into the possession o Sir Arch . Hope

Craighall , in whose family it continues . Sir

’ s on J Archibald s , Sir ohn , was a conspicuous public

. I V . n man When King George visited Scotla d , in

18 22 wa s s , the Archer Guard put upon the ame d d footing as the Life Guar s in Englan , and Sir — John Hope , Brigadier General , was in constant attendance upon his Majesty whenever the guard

wa s on - duty. At Holyrood the Captain General delivered the reddendo required by the Archer ’ s

h — a of C arter to the king pair barbed arrows , 203 2 04 INVERESK PARISH LORE . and at this function were present Sir John Hope and Admiral Sir David Milne , Inveresk , a of od member the Council Of the B y Guard . His Majesty conferred certain privileges on the Archers to about this time , and presented them a Gold

a Stick for the Captain Gener l . The Duke Of Buc

a s cleuch , holder Of that office , had accordingly , of Gold Stick Scotland , a place at the coronation Of

the William IV. next to that assigned to Gold

f n d Stick o E glan . The newly crowned king for warded to the Royal Company a Gold and a Silver

on Stick , which , their presentation , were carried by

Sir John Hope and Sir David Milne , the next in command to the Duke of Buccleuch and the Earl of Dalhousie . Sir John Hope was convener Of the County of

- Mid Lothian , and represented it in Parliament. He

— of - was Lieut . Colonel the Mid Lothian Yeomanry

Cavalry , and so popular with the regiment he

n of was presented with his portrait , an e graving which was published . Sir John took a warm

f s interest in burghal and parochial af air , and had a term of Office as Town Councillor and Provost of

Musselburgh . His son , Sir Archibald , in like manner served the community . Carberry Tower takes rank next after Pinkie in

f of n point o antiquity . The date its origi al erec tion appears uncertain , but it bears all the evidence of having been erected a s a stron ghold when

206 INVERESK PARISH LORE . buted to the happy dominie of the happy days at

’

d . Abbotsfor , the tutor in Sir Walter Scott s family The Villas Of Inveresk have been poss essed by

l Es k rove Earls of Suther and , Lord g , Admiral Sir

David Milne , the hero Of Algiers ; Horne Dal r m le o of y p Elphinst ne Logie Elphinstone , Sir

David Wedderburn . Colonel Spence , Colonel

a Hughes , Major Yule , M jor Horsburgh ,

Lady Baird, Lady Milne , Lady Mary Oswald , Mrs .

Pin kiebu rn Admiral Home , etc . was the residence f . o Of the genial Rev John Watson , first secretary

ni of d the Congregational U on Scotlan , and later Of

D. D . . . w the Rev Wm Lindsay Alexander , , idely known for his accurate Scholarship and his ability

’ on e of as a preacher . He was the Speaker s com f of pany o revisers Holy Scriptures . Inveresk House was occupied early in the century by the

H n . f o . o Mr Charteris , afterwards Earl Wemyss ; who and Drummore by Lord Drummore , endea vou red to introduce wool spinning as a local industry . Lord Stair, the distinguished jurist ; H o on . Lord Haddingt n , Lord Clive , the North

a e Dalrymple , Sir R lph Ab rcrombie , General James

Stirling, and many more had their residences in o the parish . Monkt n is said to have been built by

v ee the famous General Monk, and to ha e b n s o named by him . Early in the thirties, in a plain substa ntial dwelling- house in Es k s ide between

H ercu s i of Bridge Street and Loan, an exc seman I P 20 DIST NGUISHED ARISHIONERS . 7

s on the name of Fergusson lived . He had a , who w d Willie , , hen in attendance at E inburgh

University as a medical student , did the journey d aily on foot . That young man became Sir

- . t William Fergusson , Bar , Serjeant Surgeon to the Queen a n d the head Of the surgical profession in

Great Britain . W By birth , Inveresk claims Burnet and alker — engravers of the highest repute the on e in historic

s s H a n da s de ubject , the other in portraiture ; y d Ritchie , a sculptor known to fame ; Davi Macbeth

Me ir a n d , poet novelist . Among those distinguished d in life , educate at Musselburgh Grammar School ,

may be mentioned Logan, the poet ; Lieut . Drum

d who his mon , invented the lights known by

name , and who is understood to have been the d of of 1832 raughtsman the Reform Bill ; and Mr.

David Milne Home , who did much to promote

scientific study , to popularise meteorology , and

make it a means of forecasting coming weather. On the inscription in the Churchyard the names of many who shed a lustre round them may be of read . Numerous were the heroes the Peninsular War who came here to die and when the war was

over, many a gallant soldier found a pleasant s ociety and an agreeable retreat where the plough share turned the sods that once were drenched with

human blood . B . L C . L D Colonel Sir Henry Yule , , 208 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

R E H , is another distinguished Inveresk man . is

’ s t father served in the Hon . Ea India Company s

Service , and was sometime the British Resident at

. o 1 18 20 Lucknow He was b rn May , at Catherine

Lodge , where he remained till twelve years Old . He entered Addis com be Military College in 1837 to of and left it the following year at the p the list . Appointed to the Engineers he received his training at Chatham before proceeding to India . His career

wa s of there a brilliant one , the most varied service , u ntiring literary labour and unobtrusive bene vol n - e ce. By successive Governor Generals he was entrusted with duties demanding the utmost de termination and resource and sent on important 18 . 89 embassies to native courts On his death , in , the Royal Geographical Society and the Royal As iatic Society paid high compliments to his

Of memory . He was President the Geographical Section of the British Association at its Edinburgh

187 1 Geo meeting , , and received from the Royal “ ’ ” 18 2. graphical Society The Founder s Medal , 7 He was a member Of the Council of State for of LE D India , and had the degree . conferred upon him at the Tercentenary of Edinburgh University .

w a s of He President the Royal Asiatic Society , a

of of a n d Knight Companion the Star India , a

Corresponding Member of the Institute of France .

s on Of such a Inveresk , surely , may well be proud .

veres k m n His In a .

t e e was .a r l on e of the o a e s e ce h r b i liant , m s t v ri d rvi ,

vo n B s cce s ve le ce. v u s i

o He wa s res e m em ry. P id nt Section o f the British As s ocia

He w a s a m em b er of the Coun cil of Sta te for

' r f n v it him a t the Terccn tena yo Edi burgh Um ers y.

210 IN VERESK PARISH LORE .

Cas e re u Ed in b u r en i con sta b ula riu e u ern a or t lli g g s t g b t Nobilis s im i ordin is ga rterij eq ues n a tu s 21 Ma ii 1616 Lidin gton i

24 u us 1682 ro e fon d n Obiit A g ti p p tes e Tu bridge. Un d e corpus 27 ej u s dem m ens is dela tu m a d s u u m de H a m hous e pa la ti um I n pa rochie de Peters ha m et com ita tu S u rriaa in A n glia I n s u o ibid em s a cello in 16 Octob ris diem req uievit Exin de s u a Sca pha com ita n te regio Na vitha la m o Ad Dou nes s ecu n do fl um in e a d vectum exce pit regia na vis pra es idia ria Q ue con tin uo ad portu rn de Fis hera w in Fortbaa e stua rio ips u m tra j ectu m I n hoe s u o m l M s lb u r 25 Octo i te p e u s e gen a. b r s ad 5 Ap rilis diem pe rma n s it Q uo die pos t fu n eb rem ora tiorem a b Ioa n n e Epis copo Edin b u rgen ha bita m Ma g n o c u m s plen d ore s tipa n tib us regn i procerib us Cle ro et p en e in n um eris om n iu m ordin um homin ibu s Had ina m tra n s la tu m fuit u bi cu m eximia et n obili l n a j oru m s eri e I n s pe bea tas res u rrection is con ditu r J us ta et om n em exequ ia ru m pom pa m Sum m a ob serva n tia et pieta te cu ra ba t Ca rol u s com es de La u derd a le Fra e r u n icu s et s u cces s or t ,

W. . Pos uit. S This inscription may be rendered this

The most ill ustrious and most noble Prince and of of Lord Duke John , Duke Lauderdale , Marquis of March, Earl Lauderdale and Guildford , Viscount

of Thirles ta n e Bol Maitland, Lord , Musselburgh , toun and Petersham . He very frequently held meetings of parliament and of the estates of this realm on behalf of the king . From the restoration f m o . fro exile his royal majesty Charles II he was ,

a for through twenty years , the lone Regent the f of Kingdom o Scotland . He was president the

Privy Council in Scotland , and was also a member of the Privy Council of England and on e of the

— on e of r lords of the bed chamber. He was the fou e xtraordinary Senators of the College of Justice in

s of Scotland , Con table and Governor the royal MEMORABLE EVENTS . 211

of Castle of Edinburgh , and a Knight the most f noble Order o the Garter .

Lidin ton 21s t 1616 24th Born at g May , he died

168 2 on August near Tunbridge Wells , whence the 27th of the same month his body was borne to his own palace at H a m hou s e in the parish of Peters ham , county of Surrey , England . It lay there in

the l 6th his own chapel till day of October . Thence his rema ins were con veyed down the river

own on board his barge , which had a royal convoy , a s far as the Downs . A royal guardship there re ceived t the remains , and the voyage was con inued

of Fis herrow to the Port , in the estuary of the

Forth . His body lay in his own church at Muss el

25th o 5th on burgh from Oct ber to April , which of day , after a funeral oration by John , Bishop

wa s Edinburgh , it removed to Haddington , aecom

a n ied of p by the nobles the kingdom , the clergy , and an innumerable procession of all ranks . There it lies , along with the distinguished and noble line of of r u r his ancestors , in the hope a blessed es rec tion . All the customary ceremonial of a great State

ou t funeral was observed , and it was carried with the greatest care and dutifulness by Charles , Earl of Lauderdale , his only brother and successor.

W. S . placed this . In this memorial to on e of the foremost of the s tatesmen and Court favourites of his day we 212 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

’ have proclaimed the prominence of the Duke s

a n d position the honours that he received . Seldom is a greater contrast found than between the estimate here met with and the woful tale of his chara cter and career which tradition and history have handed

n ff dow . But , widely as these portraits of him di er, the particulars given in this inscription is of con s idera ble o of value , for it sh ws the better features the man— features which those for and with whom

s s to he acted doubtles admired , while tho e whom he was opposed only experienced the severity of of his rule and the harshness his measures . w w Imperious in disposition , and ith unbridled po er

- fitted at command , he was ill to understand those

’ who were willing to endure in God s cause and f ’ him to suf er death for Christ s sake . Of it may of be said he was a servitor his sovereign , a

for n o to suitor self, but good friend his native land . Along with other distinguished parishioners on e lady must n ot be forgotten to be mentioned . In the list of heritors entitled to sittings in the parish church the name of the Countess of Hyn dford a p ‘

’ on e of pears . United by marriage to Scotland s

wa s illustrious families, her ladyship linked no less to those old- world times when the elite of the aristocracy had their town - hous es in the closes of

Ca n on a te the g and Cowgate , and when the latter f was a fashionable suburb o the metropolis . This

( ET/ b a nte r X X I I .

MISCELLANEA .

Y to Charter, Musselburgh acquired the right have a mercat cross ” and a free fair at the of festival Saint James . The cross is erected

- over a draw well , and in local parlance is known as

- w . of i the Cross ell It consists a square build ng, with an upright shaft surmounted by a lion u p d holding the burgh shiel . In all likelihood it has stood in its present position in front of the Muni i d c pa l Buil ings since its first erection . In those

o Old d w a s go d days when George the Thir king , a

’ bonfire was kindled beside it on his Majesty s m birthday , and the bailies and council ca e forth

’ to drink the sovereign s health in public . This done with all the honours , the glasses used were tossed among the faggots that n o other health might be drunk ou t of them thereafter. In Olden time Musselburgh Fair w a s of more than local consequence and considerable trade was i done at it . It was considered the correct th ng “ for a la d to buy his sweetheart a stand of r — h ibbons w atever that might be . But many a f o wa s . transaction greater value concluded Cloth , 2‘ 14 215 MISCELLANEA . bo s s ot , shoes, salted beef, and thing substantial generally were the staple articles dealt in . A curious proof of this is met with in a Session Minute where several of the elders intimate they could not attend any meeting as they would be h engaged at t e fair . Within the present reign the Lord Provost a n d Magistrates of the city attended the Edinburgh

Race meetings on Musselburgh links in state . To the Fair Races , the Provost , Bailies and Council of the Honest Toun marched in procession to the

’ - f d rat tat o the town s rummer.

By the . Act of the Scottish Parliament , i . R a t ca tion . . fi cap C L entitled , in Favors of the

T u n o Mu s s ilbu r h ! o f g , the Baillies , Council , Com munitie and inhabitants tha irof are confirmed in “ ” “ riviled es s icl k all their ancient p g , And y ane act Of the Convention of Burrowes holden at

S tirlin e d da 1618 upon the thir y Of July , Whereby the said Convention Grants and gives their license a n d tollera n ce to the inhabitants of the toun of Mu s s ilbu rgh a n d ffis herow w hich shall be actual ordinar residenters therein w ith their houses and to of families , resort to the tack herring . salmond or white fish in all the parts of the R ea lm e ; An d their to pack a n d peill the same peaceably u n troubled or molested be the said burrowes or their ” agent for the same . The privilege thus acquired has ever since been 216 i xvr a s s x P ARISH LORE .

e xercised by a brave and hardy portion of the

vca rs parishioners . One of this class was for some

i w a member of the Town Council . At an interv e of i with the late Duke Buccleuch , th s worthy ,

on s u having occa ion supplied Dalkeith Ho se ,

’ ’ introduced himself thus Duke ma lord , I m e y re fisher. This was not the only representative

fis hwife from Fisherrow his grace encountered . A had been plying her calling among the villas at

Es kba n k on e of was , and at the gate of these left with no on e at hand to help her on with her

burden . Seeing a gentleman approach she accosted “ ’ ’ ” ! s ir wi him , Eh , gie me a help up ma creel , which was good hu m ou redly done and for which

s he returned her thanks . She was shortly over taken by another who enquired whether s he knew “ ” ha d who given her the lift ; no me , was the

wa s reply . That the Duke Of Buccleuch , said

be her questioner. His surprise may imagined at her ready wit when with outstretched hand s he

’ ' s hillin t ae rejoined , Can t be possible ; see a

u s drink his health . S ch characteri tic modes of expression are fast di s appearing before m odern

n ow of habits , What would be thought a small shopkeeper - body holding convers ation with a

wholesaler in this wise . The humble dealer com

Of the f plains dif iculty in getting accounts paid , “ and is brusquely told , why do you trust these ” “ ’

. s ir s poor devils That s easy explained , say

218 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

’ n of ot earlier. It is the oldest trophy the Queen s

for fre Body Guard Scotland , and has been more

won quently by noblemen than any other prize . The Shootin g for it was made the occasion of an imposing march ou t from Holyrood to Musselbur gh

1 24 the of KT in 7 , when Duke Hamilton , . . , was

- Captain General . One of the divisions of the burgh in the seven “ ’ n th tee century was known as God speed a . Of it incidental notice is taken in a Session Minute . It w a s situate between Market Street and H ercu s

Es k s ide a n d Loan , about halfway between Campie

Lane . — The Mid Lothian Yeomanry Cavalry w a s formed

179 its m w in 7 , and mess eetings at Musselburgh ere looked upon as social gatherings of n o ordinary m kind . It is said any gentlemen joined the corps , a n d others came from distant parts of Scotland for

Of the purpose being permitted to share in them . of Sir Walter Scott , as quartermaster the Edin

u burgh Light Horse , took p his residence at h f Musselburgh during t e term o training . It is related of him that in the intervals of drill u pon Portobello Sands he was often observed to retire to the edge of the w ater and walk his charger back

his to wards and forwards , then , putting spurs her

off . sides , dash as at the charge On his way back to Musselburgh he rode up to on e of his friends of and recited the stanzas Marmion , which he had L 21 MISCEL ANEA . 9

on e d been then composing . At drill he receive a kick from a Yeoman ’ s horse which confined him to his quarters for three days . During that enforced seclusion Sir Walter employed himself upon the poem , and put Marmion nearly into the form in d which it appeare . Of Tytler , the historian , Sir Archibald Allison tells that he was the very spirit of these mess dinners , and was wont to Sing songs

’ n d of the at them , recounti g the inci ents day s drill

m a n d u in the ost grotesque humouro s manner . of of Campbell , the poet the Pleasures Hope, and Galt , the novelist , were likewise for a time stars in the society Of the parish . “ In the Notes to the Antiquary a n d to his Poetical Works Sir Walter Scott ha s a number of to references the locality , and some of his characters are understood to have had their originals here . A curious minute of the Kirk Session of 29 January 1712 is illustrative of the condition of the

Tes tifica ts period . appointed to the bleu gowns in this paroch . To Peter Campbell , an ample and k full certificate to Robert Jac son , to Jas . Watson , a blind man : to Richard Robertson in Whitehill

n a n d s and his wife , Ja et Robertson Thoma Craig . ’ “ These were Edie Ochiltrees of long before the ” w Antiquary was ritten . As a glimpse of how things were m anaged under the close corporation system , the following copy Of the invitation issued for the Michaelmas 220 PAR ISH INVERESK LORE .

Dinner in honour of the privilege which the

Council enjoyed Of self - election is given ; the name of the invited being for personal withheld . The Magistrates and Council present compli ments to beg the favour of his company to

n w on r ida Di e ith them in the Townhall f y next ,

’

29th t 3 . the ins , at o clock

Musselburgh , 1 September 797 .

The form is printed from an engraved plate , the word Friday a n d the figures 97 being all that is written . Copy of Burgess Ticket given for placing the

- t 1654 Weather Cock upon the Town S eeple , The Sexten e day of November

0 a vi fif i - ir s J j and t e four ye e .

lk da of Stra cha n e The q y in presence Robert ,

of of of Mu s s ilb u r h ane the Baillies the burgh g , and in presence Of S u n drie Of the Cou n s elleres per s on a llie con ven et t m e Com eired for the y , p person a la wfu ll llie William Craig , eldest sone to burghs

in dwella r ffis herow George Craig , Seaman in , and is maid a bu rgcs and frieman of the said burgh Of

Mu s s ilbu r he fidelitie g , and he gave his oath of

a his conforme to the order, and p yet for friedom e b u r es hi Ma rten e R oberts on e and g p to ,

r f o present thes a u er o the s d. burghs. The s nme of S exten e pu n des Scots m odifiet be the Baillies

P 222 INVERESK ARISH LORE .

grant infeftments , And with power to create burgesses sua far as may be com piten t to

Ba rron ie ane burgh Of or Regality , And with

w Cou n cdl po er likewise to the saids Baillies , and Community to labour and manure such pa irts and portio n s of their Com on ty as they shall think expedient to the well and vtility of the s aid burgh , With power also to the

to cres t saids baillies , Council and Community a n d eerl make y y at Michaelmas two bailies ,

Thes a u rer of , Officers and all other members Court n e edfell for administration of iu s tice within ” the fores a ids bounds , By virtue of these extensive powers the Magis of trates Musselburgh had , and still possess , the right to confer the freedom of the burgh upon t of such as they hink worthy that high compliment , a right which parliamentary burghs have n ot had conferred upon them . Hence when a large

for to community like Leith example , wishes acknowledge con s piciou s public services it may d present an Ad ress, but cannot make the recipient of of a s it a burgess and freeman the town , Old chartered burghs can . Until the exclusive right ofburgesses and guilds to men to trade in towns was abolished , be a freeman burgess conferred a substantial privilege .

So highly was it valued that , when the difficulty to find men to fill up the regiments and man the 223 MISCELLANEA .

fleet d uring the wars w ith Napoleon was most

on severely felt , the right to carry trade in any town upon obtaining discharge was a bait used to induce enlistment , and that came to be extended so that the sons and grands ons of soldiers could claim it likewise . It was reckoned the duty of the magistracy to s ee that a sufficient number of the different trades

in d men required a community were maintaine , and in this way they regulated the constitution f and government o trade guilds . Those of Edinburgh in the fifteenth century fixed the price at which claret was to be retailed by the pint , and the present writer has seen the forms used in much more recent times by the bailies of Musselburgh to s a y what was to be d charged for brea within the burgh . In the Chartularies of Musselburgh the Rules Of the ‘ following trades are recorded in full Wab s ters d , Baxters , Taylors , Cor iners, Shoemakers and

Tanners , Wrights, Seamen and Mariners , and

Gardeners . v These Rules , ha ing been approved and confirmed

d n by the Council , provide that any dispute arisi g under them was to be disposed Of finally by the

r n e of bailies o o them . An extract or two m a y be taken as illustrative f Of the Spirit and scope o the whole . Those for the Gardeners provide for example by 2241 INVERESK PARISH LORE .

1 Of Rule . There Shall no man this society break the or or Sabbath day, be found drunk , breaking

’ of and abusing any the Lord s most Holy Laws , of under the penalty twenty pounds Scots money.

Rule 6. That no person being ane unfreeman Of this burgh or not of this society Shall presume or be permitted to take a yard or yards within the libertys of this burgh by himself or an unfree servant to be hired by him for that effect above the yearly rent Of Scots until first he makes him self burgess and enter to ou r Society under the of penalty ten pounds Scots, to be disposed of by the bailies , and that each Incumbent to the burgh w ho did not serve his apprenticeship to any of ou r Society shall pay to the box at his entry four merks Scots by and abune making himself a bur e en a ltie Of g ss, under the p being fined at the

’ bailie s pleasure . Rule 11th provides that if any gentleman pay

2 his £ 12 1 3 . the Society , Scots name would be recorded in the Society ’ s books and he would be e ntitled to a plant of every kind any membe r ha d provided such member had not fewer than three of the same . 1 of ou r Rule 2. That there Shall be none Society curse n or swear n or u pra id nor abuse his brother

or 12s . in public in private , penalty Scots for each transgression .

ou t 22 . Rule . All Indentures , etc to be written s erva nt to be hired by him for th a t effect above the yearly rent of Scots until firs t he m a kes him

ri g me Of the s a me .

cu rs e n or s wea r n or upra id -n or a bus e 11k brother

226 INVERESK PARISH LORE . obliged to quit his present employment of ta nner trade with all expedition . The Bailies and Council n ot only appointed the o Schoolmasters , but the school b ys many a time looked to them for what they considered a s even

n ot more important service , and were as a rule disappointed . When some good excuse was forth

to for or coming petition a holiday , even a

- half holiday, grave was the confabulation held till a deputation was chosen to interview some

- tender hearted city father . One lovingly remem bered in this connection was Alexander Vernor Of N of . ot Holmes, provost the burgh only did the

a fre l ddies get their petition granted , but quently their pockets were filled with fruit by the

’ provost s good lady. This game was played to some purpos e during of 1838 the great frost in the Spring , when the Esk was frozen from the da m hea d to the lower ford for

n six weeks without a break . Curli g and skating

to SO were enjoyed the full , and thick and strong did the ice become that carts and horses crossed

o SO a d up n it. far into the se son this spell extende that the rector at length declared against any further half holidays, even if the frost should hold

- till mid summer.

In the yea r 18 50 the Town Council of Mussel ! burgh found themselves in a dilemma . The inhabitants had begun to crave for better cleaned MI L E 2 SCE LAN A . 2 7

for ffi c and lighted streets , more e cient wat hing, and

to rouse themselves to tackle improvements . Many a tough tussle the councillors had over the expense of keeping a lamp here and there lighted from

dusk till dawn . The fight was in the first place

’ ’ over lamps at doctors and bankers doors . Gradu to ally better thoughts prevailed , and it came be acknowledged that a well lighted town gave thieves and burglars fewer opportunities to ply f . o their calling This , course , meant increased

expenditure, but the voters always voted against

the imposition Of any assessment . The annual

on n balances were as a consequence the wro g Side , and the needful wa s obtained by taking loans on

’ on e n ot bills at day s date , but even this did

always suffice . At last the pinch came , and the

creditors impatient . One Of them took diligence

o - a t- up n an unpaid bill , and a messenger arms arrived in town with instru ctions to put the law in — force . He accosted the provost Provost William Campbell—and told him either to find the money

r o n ot due o go with him t jail . The provost did

relish going to the Calton alone , and Obtained respite on undertaking to summon an important meeting of the Council on urgent business for the To evening. this the unsuspecting bailies and

councillors responded , but as each entered the Council Chamber click went the lock of the door to his astonishment and dismay . An agent for the 228 N I VERESK PARISH LORE .

holder of the bill was present and put before them the two alternatives of bein g taken offto imprison ment or con senting to his being appointed judicial To factor for the burgh . the latter alternative

on r they unwillingly agreed , but by application thei to of behalf the Court Session it was set aside . This crisis led to the Estate Act being obtained 1851 from Parliament in , under which the Common Good was administered by Trustees representative of C the reditors and Council . Unable any longer to apply the income from the Common Good to i such purposes as lighting, cleaning , watch ng, the ratepayers were compelled to submit to being

assessed , and thus relieved of a drain it was unable l to meet , the Trust Estate gradua ly recovered , and the Trustees had the satisfaction to restore the

’ administration of the town s property to the Town

Council seven years ago .

’ ’ 8 0 as a late in Delt s time , the Town s Common was of s u ch extent as to furnish grazing for a

’ hundred cows , and the burgh had a town s herd to look after those of the burgesses which fed upon it . This functionary blew his horn in the

cow streets in the morning, and cow after in answer to its ca ll came forth to join in the de parting herd , and in the evening upon their return “ ” brows in each ou t of from g, . fell the ranks as it approached the entrance to its own byre .

’ On the border of this old Common two sh'epherds

230 INVERESK PARISH LORE . gig proved to have been a hired one and the hirer unaware of any illegal use to which it was to be put . He therefore claimed damages for the de of struction his property and was successful . On the two handsome stone pillars at the east to entrance High Street , Musselburgh , the burgh 1 0 shield and 77 are placed . That indicates a of l m period enlightened ocal ad inistration . The m idra w f with the Chapel o St . James had been

ha d cleared away , and the mail coach road been old diverted from the bridge through High Street . The Council had prohibited new houses from being e t cov red with hatch , ordained the gutters to be

the causewayed, prevented slaughter of cattle u pon the public street , and made some further sensible sanitary regulations when these were enacted . Over the entrance to the old prison is an appro ria te on p inscription in black letter white marble , and upon the lintel of the Manse Lane entrance to

’ o I n on the minister s h use , am a stra ger the ” earth , in Hebrew characters , much weather worn . The appearance of the stone indicates it is ve ry old m a , and it y, with considerable probability , be of ld thought possibly a lintel the o Vicarage . I N D E X .

P a e. Pa ge. g Ax 2 Ba n n a tyn e Clu b 8 1: Agricu ltu re 8 B elt m 8 6

a r a n s eu 46 a a R ev. . 8 6 A n tiq u i M u m Bl c h ll , A

7 Mr . 97 r o a J u us 20 2 a c a . A ic l , li , Bl kb ll, A ’ voc tes r r 26 c a ea n 113 A a Lib a y Bla kb ll, J

n v 31 R ev. ex. 186 A n gli c I a s ion Bla ck , Al e 32 34 s u s ed 13 1 A n u ri n , B ra n k ' d es 144 u d r 36 68 0 et s e . e a rs a A l B ig , , 7 , q B gg B g

a r a n Soc. n s 4 4 u rn ou s e o ec on for 132 A n tiqu i Tra . B t H , C ll ti A ollin 45 u r a r er 221 Alta r. pp a B gh Ch t A rt a n d Religi on 52 60 2 4 10 19 5 en Ta xa tio a r err 4 et s e . A n ci t C b y , , , , , q 1 A D. D A exa n der r n ce 6 a r e R ev. . . l , P i C lyl , , A n u of Mu s s ilb r 67 4 9 38 et n e u s e . ll h , 7, , , q Act a ga i n s t G olf a n d not C eda rs of L eba n on 8 a 7 6 ra m a r 9 10 113 et s e b ll C ig ill , , , q . Alha llowm es 77 Ci s ts fou n d 13 rc dea n er of o a n 89 rom we ver 9 43 12 A h y L thi C ll . Oli , , 4 A rchbis ho 3 rece ved a t o on a r 14 i C l y , E ly u s s e u r 156 oa orm a on 17 18 19 M b gh C l F ti , , A rc ers o a Com a n of 203 ow its 18 h , R y l y C p ccou n s who to a n pi 152 a es a r u u s 20 A t , C , J li A roa c to u rc or 165 o d p h Ch h , N th C l Hill ps en ce of e n u en c es 166 tra e h 33 44 A D li q i Ca t , a rm F a s e 199 a re a 36 Al , l C ll o o er 41 C lt , R b t u cc eu c u e of 8 a edon a om a n a 41 4 B l h , D k C l i R , 3 ron ze er od 13 a rdon n ell da m 7 B P i C , A 20 e r i 8 r a n t s . a en tin n 4 B it i , eq C g y

ever d e R ev. . . a m ers a edon a 48 B i g , J G Ch l C l i 18 46 189 o et s e . om m u n on n t o s erve 64 , , , q C i , b d Bodotria 22 o da m 88 et s e C lt, A , q . ede 25 53 o ver 1 2 B , , C lt , Oli 2 Belles heim l on s e 29 62 o f a I lk 8 A ph , C lts o th t 9 ed ord a r of 44 rown a n d r 10 1 B f , E l C Ki k Bru n s ta n e 47 83 123 ou s la n d 87 114 133 , , C , , a s ea s of o n the 61 om m un on u s 118 B pti t , F t J h C i C p ru ce o er the a rm c a e R ev red 168 174 B , R b t C i h l , . F , Bin n ock n n n 69 u rc ea s 129 166 , Bi i g Ch h S t , Ba n n ockbu rn 7 1 Coa lbewers 131 Bu rn t Ca n dlem a s 74 Chri s ten in g Fea s t For B a ili es b efore Pa rli a m en t 79 bidden 140 B u ild tha t h ou s e to the s kies 80 Collection s Plu n dered 142 a rd n s ec or 8 0 o ea g u e u es on of 101 B i , I p t C ll , Q ti

u rn e R ev. J o n 84 m u B , h Co m n ion Collection s 138 232 INDEX.

P age. u rc rea d n in 141 Ch h , i g Fofriffe 56 u rc e n n of a t a u a n Ch h B ll , Ri gi g , F l 60 F u n era ls 14 4 e e Mu r 68 “ Figg t i o ec on the rod 144 a ws 1de os K C ll ti by B F Th . t. 68 orn u rc a s ed 1n n a n d Fa ws ide o er of 7 1 C P h E gl , R g for oor 172 ro e a e P F g , B ili 79 oun c re en ded 227 a lk1rk e n d Sehe ves 8 C il App h F T i , a of 7 or es Sir o n F b , J h 91 a ke 1 7 47 84 89 n a n ce a r s 146 et D l ith , , , , s e . Fi , P i h , q D ru m m ore Fa s t - da y I n du lgen ce 128 D un ferm lin e F ou n da tion Ston e of Chu rch 183 54 55 et s e , , q . D en a riu s of Tra j a n 4 6 G ra m m a r S chool 113 D elta H ou s e 4 6 G olf G reen 59 a v d I . 69 n d D i , Gi i 25 De Berw c o er 60 7 3 r a n s 4 i k , R b t , e m 32 3 35 G , , De Bern ha m s o 61 64 da s , Bi h p , Gil 32 De n en o er 6 68 G o Pi k y, R b t 7, dodin u n a r a r of 68 a u 35 D b , E l G l ’ d I I ou s a m de D a vi . G gh C n 49 D u tch Tra de G othic 54 a s New own oc 7 6 re or I X 0 Di l , T Cl k G g y . 6 D u thi e or Dou chtie 82 Ghillie 7 0 Diu rn a l of Rem a rka bl e Oc G olf 75 u rren s 8 2 ordon eri 8 c t G , Sh ff 1 b 84 ord v 94 Da m ra e on R e . Dr. G , u n erm n e a r of 90 101 G ibs on e a m es 104 D f li , E l , , J ’ c s on Sir o er 161 G od eed a 218 Di k , R b t Sp D v Wm 161 u n , R e . . 153 Droo s e . om e a v d ln e 6 p y H , D i Mi Di s ti n g ui s hed P a ris hion ers 201 H owe M ire 8 a l es ord 26 57 58 et s H i , L , , , eq . l 2 3 3 1 54 61 E k et s . dd n on s e a et s . , , , q H i gt , , , eq E 2 o e S ir o n 7 203 x H p , J h 3 , Si Es e o e r rc . 2 c H p , A h 7 2 55 o Si Es m t e r . . ce u h , H p , J D 72

d n u r et s e . o e Sir os . 123 E i b gh q H p , Th E 33 34 e u rn ad a n e 38 idyn , H pb , L y J t Ea rly E n gli s h 34 H ypoca u s tu m 40 E ccles ia s tica l Bu ildi n gs 57 H on es ta s 73 Eth el red 59 H oll a n ders dwa rd of 7 1 ere ord a r of 83 E , Flight H f , E l d H li croce n ven o 87 n dowm en ra n e . a e o f E t G t , C t 92 88 d n u r n vers is lo R ev. E i b gh U i ity p , Philip ders dm ed 14 1 u s a n d - a n ds 114 116 El A itt H b l , E ders es i n 172 a m on a r u s of 124 l R g ilt , M q i 18 51 228 159 E s a Act ow es on R ev. Mr. t te , H i , rt of o 27 55 Fi h F rth , 1 3 7 31 e ds n c os ed n veres 2 2 et. s e . Fi l E l I k , , , , q ’ F a s de et s e . n n es om a s 26 i . q I , Th i 11 23 n veres ou s e F fe , I k H

ores r x ton 16 3 8 41 42 et s e . F t y E hibi i , , , q F ris s ia n m n s 30 31 n veres a e 4 1 I m igra t , I k G t 9 s err w 4 1 47 et s . n veres od e 4 Fi h o , , , eq I k L g

2 4 N X 3 I DE .

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