Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 1– Lesson Prep

Step 1 The first step is to apply style tape to your dress form to establish guidelines. For bust level, tape from left apex to right apex and then to the side seam. Make sure that the style tape is parallel to the floor.

1 Module 1– Lesson Prep

Step 2 Divide your neck to waist measurement by four, this is the shoulder blade. Style tape from center back to the armhole ridge, parallel to the floor.

2 Module 1– Lesson Prep

Step 3 Style tape the desired neckline both front and back.

3 Module 1– Lesson Prep

Step 4 Style tape your halter armhole both front and back.

4 Module 1– Lesson Prep

Step 5A Measure down 7” down from the center of the waist and style tape your hipline.

5 Module 1– Lesson Prep

Step 5B Use your L square against the table to check that your hip is parallel to the floor.

6 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 1 To prepare your front muslin block, measure from the neckband to the desired dress length and add 3”. Record this measurement. This is your front block’s length.

7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 2A Then measure across at the fullest part of the front. Measure the bust level, from side seam to center front.

8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 2B Compare that measurement to the hip line from center front to side seam. Take the larger of the 2 measurements and add 4”. Record this measurement.

9 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 3 For the back, measure from the top of the neckband to the desired length and add 2”. This is your back block’s length.

10 Module 2 – Extract Measurements

Step 4 Find the widest part of the back by measuring both under the armplate from center back to side seam and at the hip from side seam to center back. Take the larger of the 2 measurements and add 4”. Record this measurement

11 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 1A Prepare you front and back muslin blocks using the measurements that you extract- ed and recorded from your dress form. Measure, then tear the muslin for the length of the block, remembering to remove the selvage edge first.

12 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 1B Use your width measurements to tear the muslin for the width of the blocks.

13 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 2 Press your front and back muslin blocks, first without steam, to flatten the edges. Always press in the direction of the grain. Turn the blocks over and press the other edge.

14 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 3A Use your L square, block your front & back muslin pieces, so that the corners and your grains are at right angles to each other. Pull the corners to get the pieces to block per- fectly.

15 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 3B Flip the blocks over and check that the other edge is a right angle. It is very import- ant that your grainlines are straight when draping.

16 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks

Step 4 Once your pieces are perfectly blocked give a final pressing, this time using steam.

17 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 1A You’ll need the following measurements for marking your front muslin block: neck- band to bust level.

18 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 1B Measure apex to centerfront.

19 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 1C Measure side seam to apex + 1/8” ease.

20 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 1D Measure apex to hipline.

21 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 2 From the top of your front block, measure in 1” from the right side edge and drag a guideline down, this represents center front.

22 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 3 Measure down from the top your neckband to apex measurement and drag a guide- line across this represents the bust level.

23 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 4 From the bust level, measure down your apex to hip measurement and drag a guide- line across to form the hip level.

24 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 5 At bust level, mark your center front to apex measurement and drop a bust guideline down to the hipline.

25 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 6A Take your measurement from apex to side seam including the 1/8”ease, place a mark on the bust level. This represents side seam.

26 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 6B Divide the side seam to apex in half and drag a guideline down. This is your balance guideline.

27 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 7A For the back, you’ll need the: neck to the shoulder blade level measurement.

28 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 7B Measure the center back to armhole measurement at the shoulder blade level plus 1/2” ease.

29 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 7C Measure the shoulder blade to hipline measurement.

30 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 8 Start from the top left side and measure in 1” and drag a guideline down. This is your center back.

31 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 9A Align the bottom edge of your front block next to your back block.

32 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 9B Transfer the hip guideline and drag a guideline across to form your back hip guide- line.

33 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 10 Measure up from the hip, your hip to shoulder blade measurement and drag a guide- line across. This is the shoulder blade level.

34 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 11 On shoulder blade level measure from center back to the armhole ridge plus the 1/2” ease and place a mark.

35 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 12 Measure over 1 1/2” from the armhole ridge mark and drop a guideline down to the hipline. This is a back balance guideline.

36 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 13 Measure up from the shoulder blade level to the neckline on center back and place a mark.

37 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 14 Once you marked your muslin blocks give a final blocking and pressing in prepara- tion for draping.

38 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines

Step 15 Bend back your 1” extension and finger press for both front and back blocks – never iron this fold as it will stretch the grain.

39 Lesson Guide A-LineDress Draping: Beginner Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 1 Begin the drape by lining up the apex marking on the muslin to the apex of the dress form. Secure it with a pin.

40 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 2A Pin along center front to the neckline, keeping the muslin bust level, level to the bust level of the dress form.

41 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 2B Place a temporary holding pin at the shoulder.

42 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 3 Pin along the center front from bust level to hipline. Make sure to allow for bust ease. Continue pinning until you reach the end of the torso.

43 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 4 Pin from apex to side seam along the bust level. Trap you ease between the side seam and your balance guideline. A good trick is to pin in alternating directions, this will help stabilize the muslin while you drape.

44 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 5 Secure pins at the hip level in alternating directions, trapping the ease as pin until you get to the side seam. Place a pin at the side seam/hipline intersection.

45 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 6 Make sure that you have ease at the torso before placing another pin at the side seam /torso intersection.

46 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 7A Secure another pin at the apex.

47 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 7B Smooth the muslin up around to the neck area.

48 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 7C Using your fingernail, make a crease at the neckline.

49 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 7D Cut away a rectangular piece of muslin at the center front neckline 1“ up and 1“ over.

50 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 7E Release the neckline by slashing into the neckline to the crease line. Be careful not to cut beyond the crease.

51 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 8 Place a pin at the dress form’s shoulder/neckline intersection and another at the shoulder/armhole intersection.

52 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 9A Remove the bust level pins.

53 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 9B Smooth the muslin downwards across the chest.

54 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 9C Place a pin at the underarm/side seam intersection.

55 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 9D Place another pin at the bust level guideline in line with the side seam.

56 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 10A The French dart is a diagonal dart that vanishes at the apex. Begin by picking up the excess side seam material at approximately 2” above the side seam/hip level intersection and pin the dart.

57 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 10B Continue to form your fisheye dart with pins. The dart should vanish no closer than 1” away from the apex.

58 Module 5 – Draping the Front

Step 10C As you pin the fisheye dart, keep your balance guideline straight though your fish- eye dart will curve.

59 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 1 Before marking the front, smooth the muslin at the neckline and place temporary holding pins along the neckline styleline and along the armhole styleline.

60 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 2 Begin marking the front in a counterclockwise direction. Place a dash at the center- front/neckline intersection and then dot the neckline until you reach the shoulder.

61 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 3 Cross mark the shoulder/neckline intersection.

62 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 4 Crossmark the shoulder/armhole intersection.

63 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 5 Dot the armhole styleline until you reach the underarm.

64 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 6 Crossmark the underarm /side seam intersection.

65 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 7A Crossmark the dart on both sides at the side seam.

66 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 7B Dot along the dart leg on one side until you reach the dart’s vanishing point. Be careful that the dart material isn’t twisting. If it is then take less dart pick up.

67 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 8 Place a crossmark at the midway point of the dart on both sides.

68 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 9 Place a mark at the hip/side seam intersection.

69 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 10A Place a crossmark at the side seam/torso intersection.

70 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 10B Place a dash at the center front/torso intersection.

71 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 11 Place a dash mark at the centerfront /waist intersection in the middle of the waist tape.

72 Module 6 – Marking the Front

Step 12 Check to be sure that you have marked all of the key areas. Remove your drape in preparation for trueing. Keep the dart pinned together as you remove the drape from the dress form.Step 1 Begin trueing by placing your drape on the table with center front face-up. 73 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 1 Begin trueing by placing your drape on the table with center front face-up.

74 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 2 Carefully reposition your dart pins at right angles to the markings, without pulling them out of the muslin.

75 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 3 Use your hip curve to true the fisheye dart.

76 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 4 Add 1/2” seam allowance to the dart with your clear plastic ruler, stopping a little bit beyond your side seam.

77 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 5A Place tracing paper, face-up, under the dart. Trace the stitching line of the dart from side seam to vanishing point.

78 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 5B Mark the midway point of the dart and crossmark the dart/side seam intersection.

79 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 5C Mark the dart’s vanishing point and the side seam at the hipline.

80 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 5D Turn the muslin over to check to make sure that you have captured all of your mark- ings onto the other side.

81 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 6 Reposition your pins so that you can trim away the excess dart muslin.

82 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 7 Remove the dart pins and lay the drape flat on the table in preparation for trueing the neckline.

83 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 8A Use your hip curve to true your V neckline.

84 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 8B Then add 1/2” seam allowance to the neckline.

85 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 9A Connect your shoulder seam.

86 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 9B Add 1” seam allowance to the shoulder seam.

87 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 10 Trim away the excess muslin at the shoulder.

88 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 11A Fold the shoulder seam allowance on the stitching line and pin the seam allowance under.

89 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 11B Trim the excess fabric at the neckline so that your shoulder seam is trued properly.

90 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 12A Slash about midway into the upper armhole, stopping at your armhole markings.

91 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 12B Trim the muslin within 1/2” away from the upper armhole styleline. Remove your shoulder pin.

92 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 13A Fingerpress the full leg of your French dart from vanishing point to the side seam. Be careful not to stretch the grain as you are dealing with bias here.

93 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 13B Pin the dart closed, bottom over top beginning at the midway notch.

94 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 13C Pin the dart closed at the side seam and continue pinning up to the vanishing point of the dart. Pinning on the diagonal will help hold the seam allowance better.

95 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 13D Pin the excess muslin at the side seam area.

96 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 14 Put the drape back on the dress form the way you draped it, matching all of the key points, the neckline, shoulder, the waistline, the bust area, the hipline and the end of the torso.

97 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 15 At the shoulder, sink your pins flat into the seam allowance. This makes it possible for you to drape the back over the front.

98 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 16 At the hip, secure pins at the hip/guideline intersection, the balance guideline and at the side seam, trapping 1/2” of ease between the pins.

99 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 17A Place a pin at the underarm/side seam intersection.

100 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 17B Place a pin at the torso/side seam intersection, making sure that you continue the ease at the end of the torso.

101 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 18A Beginning at the underarm, secure a row of temporary holding pins at about 1”away from the side seam to the bust level.

102 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 18B Place temporary holding pins at about 1” away from the side seam from 2” above the hipline all the way down to the end of the torso.

103 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

Step 18C Remove the original side seam pins and fold the side seam over onto the front.

104 Module 7– Trueing the Front – Part 1

18D Place a holding pin, in preparation for draping the back.

105 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 1A Line up your back muslin block beginning at the neckline at center back.

106 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 1B Place a pin at the shoulder blade level.

107 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 1C Pin at the hipline.

108 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 1D Pin at the end of the torso.

109 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 2A Align the muslin at the shoulder blade level and secure a pin at the armhole ridge. Keep the area flat between the ridge and the back balance guideline.

110 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 2B Pin along the shoulder blade level in alternating directions, trapping ease between the guideline and center back.

111 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 3 Place a pin at the hip/guideline intersection.

112 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 4A Pin the hipline to the dress form in alternating directions to the center back, trapping 1/2” worth of ease between the pins.

113 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 4B Pin at the side seam/hipline intersection.

114 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 5 Make sure that you have continued the ease to the end of the torso and pin the side seam.

115 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 6 Next, secure a pin at the side seam/underarm intersection.

116 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 7 Moving to the neckline area, smooth the muslin over the shoulder and then place a pin at the neckline/shoulder intersection.

117 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 8A Cut a 1” by 1-1/2” rectangle from the neckline muslin to release the neck.

118 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 8B Slash into the neckline up to 1/2” away from the neck style tape.

119 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 8C Trim the muslin to keep it from curling.

120 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 9A Gently pull the muslin over the shoulder and trap a pinch of ease between the neck and the armhole at the shoulder line.

121 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 9B Then pin the shoulder/armhole intersection.

122 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 10 Looking through the muslin, place a row of pins around the back armhole styleline stopping at the side seam.

123 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 11A In preparation for joining the front and back side seams, slash into the shoulder blade level guideline to within 1/2” away from the armhole ridge.

124 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 11B Trim away the excess muslin no closer than 1/2” away from the back armhole.

125 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 12A Release your back and front holding pins at the underarm

126 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 12B Pin the back and front together at the armhole/ side seam intersection.

127 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 13 Pat the front and back muslin together at the side seam with your hands until you reach the hipline.

128 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 14 Pin the hiplines together making sure that the front and back hiplines line up.

129 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 15 Pin the side seams together at the end of the torso.

130 Module 8 – Draping the Back

Step 16 Pat and then pin the excess muslin together below the hip, along the side seam to the edge of the muslin.

131 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 17 Pat and then pin the side seam of the muslin together about 1” away from the body, beginning at the underarm to the end of the torso.

132 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 1A Before fitting the dress, remove the temporary holding pins along the front side seam and along the front hipline.

133 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 1B Remove the pins at the end of the front torso along the back hipline.

134 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 1C Remove the pins at the end of the back torso and at the center back torso and hip intersections.

135 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 2A Place a pin at the center back/waist intersection so that the muslin contours to the body.

136 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 2B Place a pin at the hip and the end of the torso at center back.

137 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 3 On the back, find the midway point between center back and side seam and pick up a dart at the waist but don’t fit the dress too tight.

138 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 4A Gently form a dart with your fingers down to the hip. Continue pinning the dart until you get about 1” away from the hipline. Remember the fuller the bottom the shorter the dart.

139 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 4B Place a horizontal pin at the dart’s vanishing point.

140 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 5 Gently form the dart above the waistline with your fingers however this dart will be trued on the table.

141 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 6A You are now ready to shape the side seam. Check to see that you have the same amount of front and back ease at the waistline to keep the fit balanced.

142 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 6B Pin the front and back side seams together at the waist/side seam intersection. Be sure not to fit the waist too tight.

143 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 7A Pin the front and back together along the side seam until you reach the hipline.

144 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 7B Make sure that your front and back hip guidelines match.

145 Module 9 – Fitting the A-line Dress

Step 8 Continue to pin the side seams together until you reach the end of the torso.

146 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 1 Begin marking the back in a clockwise manner. Place a dash at the centerback/neck- line and dot along the neck styleline.

147 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 2 Crossmark the neck/shoulder intersection, dot the shoulder and crossmark the shoul- der/armhole intersection.

148 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 3 Looking through the muslin dot along your stylized armhole until you reach your un- derarm/side seam intersection.

149 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 4 Place a crossmark at the back side seam/underarm intersection

150 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 5A Crossmark the back dart on both sides at the middle of the waist tape and along one side of the dart to the vanishing point.

151 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 5B Place a dash mark at the end of the dart.

152 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 6 At center back mark the center of the waist and the end of the torso.

153 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 7A Using a red pencil, crossmark both front and back underarm/side seam intersection.

154 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 7B Crossmark the waist/side seam intersection at the middle of the waist tape.

155 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 8 Dot along the front side seam to the hipline. Mark both sides at the hipline, front and back.

156 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 9 Crossmark both sides at the side seam at the end of the torso.

157 Module 10 – Marking the Back and Front Side Seam

Step 10 Make sure that you have captured all of your markings before removing the drape from the dress form. Keep the back dart and side seam pinned together.

158 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 1 With the front of the drape facing up, begin by re-directing your side seam pins so that they are at a right angle to the seam. Leave the pin point in place so that the muslin doesn’t separate as you redirect the pin angle.

159 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 2 With your ruler, connect the underarm mark to the waist mark at the side seam. This is called your tight body line.

160 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 3A With your red pencil, drop your side seam 1/2” and come out 1/2” then connect a line from that point to the waist. This is known as your lowered extended side seam.

161 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 3B Square a line for 1/2” from the new side seam/armhole intersection.

162 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 4 Use your hip curve to connect the waist to the hip at the side seam.

163 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 5 Next, square a line off the hipline connecting the hip to the end of the muslin edge.

164 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 6 Mark the desired length of the dress, in my case, 2” longer than the dress form’s torso, and place a mark on the side seam and at center front.

165 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 7A At the desired dress length mark, measure over the amount of A-line flare you de- sire, in this case 1 1/2”.

166 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 7B Connect that mark with a ruler to your side seam above the hipline, to create a nice, even flare.

167 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 8 Place tracing paper face-up under the side seam and trace the original side seam, the tight body line and the lowered extended side seam to the waist. Trace the new lowered underarm and the waistline.

168 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 9 Trace the desired hemline marks at the flare point and at the original side seam and trace the new a-line side seam flare.

169 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 10 Turn the muslin over and check to see that your all of your markings were success- fully transferred.

170 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 11 Add 1” seam allowance to the new lowered extended A-line side seam line and then trim way the excess muslin.

171 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 12 Slash into the waist seam allowance to release the muslin and remove all of your side seam pins.

172 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 13 Separate the front and back muslin pieces.

173 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 14 Using your styling curve, true the front armhole to the lowered extended armhole mark.

174 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 15 Use your ruler to make sure that you armhole is a right angle to the side seam.

175 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 16 Turn the shoulder seam allowance under and pin.

176 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 17 Add 1/2” seam allowance to the armhole.

177 Module 11 – Trueing the Side Seam & the Front Part 2

Step 18 Trim away the excess seam allowance keeping the shoulder seam allowance folded under for proper trueing of the shoulder. Unpin the shoulder.

178 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 1 Place the back muslin on the table with the side seam facing up.

179 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 2 Reposition the pins on the back dart so that they are at a right angle to the dart mark- ings.

180 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 3 Use your hip curve to true the dart from the waist down to the vanishing point.

181 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 4 To true the dart above the waist, place a mark on the fold, level with the lowered ex- tended armhole. This is the vanishing point of the back dart.

182 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 5 Connect the vanishing point to the waist to complete the dart.

183 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 6 Place the tracing paper face-up onto the other side, pin the upper dart in place and trace the dart to the other side. Be sure to trace the waist and the dart end points.

184 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 7 Slash into the waist of the dart and remove the dart pins.

185 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 8 Use your styling curve to true the back armhole. Use your ruler to square your side seamline.

186 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 9 True your back shoulder with your styling curve.

187 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 10 Square a line off center back neck for about 1” then true the neckline with your styl- ing curve.

188 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 11 Add 1/2” seam allowance at the neckline and 1” seam allowance at the shoulder.

189 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 12 Add 1/2” seam allowance at the armhole.

190 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 13 Trim the excess muslin at the shoulder.

191 Module 12 – Trueing the Back

Step 14 Fold the shoulder seam allowance under, place a holding pin, then trim the excess muslin at the neckline and the armhole then unpin the shoulder seam.

192 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 1 With the back facing up, fingerpress the dart and then pin it closed with the dart ma- terial in the direction of center back. Begin pinning at the waist, moving towards the hip and then pin the dart above the waist to the vanishing point. Pinning at a diagonal helps seams lay flatter. 193 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 2 Fingerpress the back side seam allowance from the waist to the hem and then the waist to the underarm. Attach the waist and then attach the underarm. Remember to line up the lowered extended side seam line and not the tight bodyline. Continue pinning along the side seam until you reach the hem. Be sure to match up the hipline, end of torso markings and the hem mark. 194 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 3 Fingerpress the back shoulder seam allowance and pin back over front. Remember to trap the back shoulder ease between the pins.

195 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 4 Place the drape back on the dress form the way you draped it.

196 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 5 Mark the hem with either a yardstick from the floor up, or with a ruler measuring up from a tabletop, as demonstrated here. Turn the dress form as you mark the hem from front to back.

197 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 6 Remove the drape from the dress form and place on the table, face up.

198 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 7 Square a line off center front with your ruler. Connect your hem markings until you reach the center back. Make sure that the hemline is a right angle to center back.

199 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 8 Add 1 – 1 1/2” seam allowance to the hem and trim the excess muslin.

200 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 9 Next, pin your hem up and secure it with horizontally placed pins from back to front. Flip the hem to the wrong side and you will see that you will need to make an adjustment at the hem’s side seam due to the flare. Fold back the amount necessary so that the hem lays flat. Mark this adjust- ment on both the front and back seamline. When using hem tape to sew your hem, you will be able to ease the hem into the hem tape so that your hem lays flat and won’t pucker 201 Module 13 – Final Steps

Step 10 Put you’re A line dress back on the dress form and check the fit. This is your finished A Line dress.

202