Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 1– Lesson Prep Step 1 The first step is to apply style tape to your dress form to establish guidelines. For bust level, tape from left apex to right apex and then to the side seam. Make sure that the style tape is parallel to the floor. 1 Module 1– Lesson Prep Step 2 Divide your neck to waist measurement by four, this is the shoulder blade. Style tape from center back to the armhole ridge, parallel to the floor. 2 Module 1– Lesson Prep Step 3 Style tape the desired neckline both front and back. 3 Module 1– Lesson Prep Step 4 Style tape your halter armhole both front and back. 4 Module 1– Lesson Prep Step 5A Measure down 7” down from the center of the waist and style tape your hipline. 5 Module 1– Lesson Prep Step 5B Use your L square against the table to check that your hip is parallel to the floor. 6 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 1 To prepare your front muslin block, measure from the neckband to the desired dress length and add 3”. Record this measurement. This is your front block’s length. 7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 2A Then measure across at the fullest part of the front. Measure the bust level, from side seam to center front. 8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 2B Compare that measurement to the hip line from center front to side seam. Take the larger of the 2 measurements and add 4”. Record this measurement. 9 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 3 For the back, measure from the top of the neckband to the desired length and add 2”. This is your back block’s length. 10 Module 2 – Extract Measurements Step 4 Find the widest part of the back by measuring both under the armplate from center back to side seam and at the hip from side seam to center back. Take the larger of the 2 measurements and add 4”. Record this measurement 11 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 1A Prepare you front and back muslin blocks using the measurements that you extract- ed and recorded from your dress form. Measure, then tear the muslin for the length of the block, remembering to remove the selvage edge first. 12 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 1B Use your width measurements to tear the muslin for the width of the blocks. 13 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 2 Press your front and back muslin blocks, first without steam, to flatten the edges. Always press in the direction of the grain. Turn the blocks over and press the other edge. 14 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 3A Use your L square, block your front & back muslin pieces, so that the corners and your grains are at right angles to each other. Pull the corners to get the pieces to block per- fectly. 15 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 3B Flip the blocks over and check that the other edge is a right angle. It is very import- ant that your grainlines are straight when draping. 16 Module 3 – Prepare Muslin Blocks Step 4 Once your pieces are perfectly blocked give a final pressing, this time using steam. 17 Lesson Guide A-Line Dress Draping: Beginner Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 1A You’ll need the following measurements for marking your front muslin block: neck- band to bust level. 18 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 1B Measure apex to centerfront. 19 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 1C Measure side seam to apex + 1/8” ease. 20 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 1D Measure apex to hipline. 21 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 2 From the top of your front block, measure in 1” from the right side edge and drag a guideline down, this represents center front. 22 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 3 Measure down from the top your neckband to apex measurement and drag a guide- line across this represents the bust level. 23 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 4 From the bust level, measure down your apex to hip measurement and drag a guide- line across to form the hip level. 24 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 5 At bust level, mark your center front to apex measurement and drop a bust guideline down to the hipline. 25 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 6A Take your measurement from apex to side seam including the 1/8”ease, place a mark on the bust level. This represents side seam. 26 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 6B Divide the side seam to apex in half and drag a guideline down. This is your balance guideline. 27 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 7A For the back, you’ll need the: neck to the shoulder blade level measurement. 28 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 7B Measure the center back to armhole measurement at the shoulder blade level plus 1/2” ease. 29 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 7C Measure the shoulder blade to hipline measurement. 30 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 8 Start from the top left side and measure in 1” and drag a guideline down. This is your center back. 31 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 9A Align the bottom edge of your front block next to your back block. 32 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 9B Transfer the hip guideline and drag a guideline across to form your back hip guide- line. 33 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 10 Measure up from the hip, your hip to shoulder blade measurement and drag a guide- line across. This is the shoulder blade level. 34 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 11 On shoulder blade level measure from center back to the armhole ridge plus the 1/2” ease and place a mark. 35 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 12 Measure over 1 1/2” from the armhole ridge mark and drop a guideline down to the hipline. This is a back balance guideline. 36 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 13 Measure up from the shoulder blade level to the neckline on center back and place a mark. 37 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 14 Once you marked your muslin blocks give a final blocking and pressing in prepara- tion for draping. 38 Module – 4 Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 15 Bend back your 1” extension and finger press for both front and back blocks – never iron this fold as it will stretch the grain. 39 Lesson Guide A-LineDress Draping: Beginner Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 1 Begin the drape by lining up the apex marking on the muslin to the apex of the dress form. Secure it with a pin. 40 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 2A Pin along center front to the neckline, keeping the muslin bust level, level to the bust level of the dress form. 41 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 2B Place a temporary holding pin at the shoulder. 42 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 3 Pin along the center front from bust level to hipline. Make sure to allow for bust ease. Continue pinning until you reach the end of the torso. 43 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 4 Pin from apex to side seam along the bust level. Trap you ease between the side seam and your balance guideline. A good trick is to pin in alternating directions, this will help stabilize the muslin while you drape. 44 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 5 Secure pins at the hip level in alternating directions, trapping the ease as pin until you get to the side seam. Place a pin at the side seam/hipline intersection. 45 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 6 Make sure that you have ease at the torso before placing another pin at the side seam /torso intersection. 46 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 7A Secure another pin at the apex. 47 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 7B Smooth the muslin up around to the neck area. 48 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 7C Using your fingernail, make a crease at the neckline. 49 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 7D Cut away a rectangular piece of muslin at the center front neckline 1“ up and 1“ over. 50 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 7E Release the neckline by slashing into the neckline to the crease line. Be careful not to cut beyond the crease. 51 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 8 Place a pin at the dress form’s shoulder/neckline intersection and another at the shoulder/armhole intersection. 52 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 9A Remove the bust level pins. 53 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 9B Smooth the muslin downwards across the chest. 54 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 9C Place a pin at the underarm/side seam intersection. 55 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 9D Place another pin at the bust level guideline in line with the side seam. 56 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 10A The French dart is a diagonal dart that vanishes at the apex. Begin by picking up the excess side seam material at approximately 2” above the side seam/hip level intersection and pin the dart. 57 Module 5 – Draping the Front Step 10B Continue to form your fisheye dart with pins.