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GH0325-1979.Pdf (4.378Mb) HOME ECONOMICS GUIDE 7uliJJd. 6, tu ~ ,j 1tt.iMllw-~ UitMi.M'/Jili.li.M Ukfe,jlfllM~ APR 1 7 l980f'<: Padding a Dress Form Velda Rankin Clothing & Textiles Specialist Dress forms may be adjustable or rigid and made from a variety of materials including mesh, foam and molded substances. The rigid form, padded to the individual's measurements, is favored by most designers and custom dress-makers. The following directions are for padding a rigid form. Step 1. Collect supplies and find a partner who can measure and fit accurately. The supply list includes • 2¼ yards of heavy muslin 36 or 39 inches wide • 1 large package of cotton batting 81 x 96 inches • French shell or basic pattern which includes a center back, side back, center front, side front, collar and arm hole cover. If the pattern does not include the collar and arm hole cover, these can be drafted version • Pins • Sharp cutting scissors • Non-stretch tape measure • Marking pencil • Tailor's L square • Colored string to circle the neck, bust, waist and hips • Tracing paper and tracing wheel • Heavy duty thread • Staple gun or hammer and tacks • Dress form - Purchase the form by bust measure and smaller than the body size. The rigid form can be filled out by padding but cannot be reduced in size. The bust size is determined by measuring from a point approxi­ mately six inches below the base of the back neck, high under the arms and across the highest point of the bust. The tape should be snug when two fingers are slipped Rigid form under it. Step 2. Have your partner take and record ACCURATE measurements will result in a form that does not duplicate measurements. Wear underwear customarily worn; and your figure. REMEMBER MEASUREMENTS MUST shoes withArchive a heel height suitable for wear with clothing to BE ACCURATE. DO NOT ALLOW EASE. Use the be fitted on the form. Stand in a normal posture. Improper following chart to record your measurements . 325 Step 3. Make necessary size adjustments on the pattern *MEASUREMENT CHART and cut the French shell. • Fold the fabric in half with cut ends together. Around the Body Measurements • Pin the pattern to the fabric on correct grain line. • Allow a ONE INCH seam allowance on ALL seams. Base of neck • Mark the seam allowance on the fabric and cut pattern front through both layers of fabric. back • Mark pattern notches before removing the pattern from Bust the fabric. High bust • Baste duplicate pieces together as you remove the Full bust pattern. You will have six pieces. FOLD Hip 7 11 to 9'' below waist Full hip Length Measurements w C, C > ..J Back waist length w U) Front waist length w C, a: I Hip length C l ~ ..JI w ..JI Chest length U) o• c., ' Side waist length I Hip length ' Total length ' ' Front ' Back I ' I ' ' SB SF , CF :ce ,' I Arm and Sleeve Measurements Pattern layout Armsyce Step 4. Assemble and fit the shell. Total length of arm • Baste the side front and center front together with all Elbow length notches matched at the seams. Sleeve cap length Upper arm circumference Elbow circumference Wrist circumference Biceps Width and Depth Measurements Body Width Depth Arm at shoulder socket I I Width ~F SF \ SB : CB Depth *See guide "How to Take Body Measurements" for First basting step detailed instructions. • Baste the front sections together at the center front . • Follow the same procedure with the side back and center back pieces, except leave the center back open. • Baste front and back together at shoulder and sick seams. Fitted shell • Baste the collar pieces together. • Match the collar seam with the center front of the shell and baste the collar to the shell . • Try the shell on and fit the collar. It should be snug at the neckline joining and around the neck. • Before removing the shell check the width and depth measures recorded on your chart. Second basting step • Try the shell on wrong side our and have your partner pin the center back seam together. • Fit out any looseness or wrinkles. THE SHELL SHOULD FIT LIKE A SECOND SKIN. Frequent adjustments include darts under and between the busts; improved fit at the armscye, hip and waistline; and removing looseness at the neckline. DO NOT HESI­ TATE TO PULL THE SHELL TIGHT. The double fabric will stand the strain. • Remove the shell and machine stitch all seams and darts. Use a short stitch and heavy duty thread. • Try the form on again and check for wrinkles and looseness. The shell should be smooth, tight and reveal your body contours. When the fit is perfect, remove the Check width and depth measurements shell and lay aside. Step 5. You are ready to pad the form. Step 7. • Unroll the cotton batting and TEAR pieces to cover the • Turn under and baste the seam allowance around the form. Cutting the batting leaves a sharp edge that armhole pieces. results in a lumpy surface under the muslin shell. • Add two layers of cotton over the arm hole openings. • Apply the cotton generously. The form will appear • Place and stitch the arm hole pieces to the shell. much larger than your measurements, however the Step 8. The form should duplicate your measurements cotton will condense when the muslin shell is pulled and contours identically. tight. Use the colored string or tape to mark body lines including neck circumference, front waist length, high bust, chest length, bust circumference, waistline circum­ ference , side waist length, hip length, hip circumference front and armscye circle. The back view should include back waist length, shoulder width, high bust, bust, waistline, side waist length, armscye circle, hip length and hip circumference back. Padding the form Step 6. • Start at the center front arid gently wrap the shell around the form. Care must be used to prevent the cotton batting from shifting out of place. The form should be firm and bring out your measurements. If looseness occurs apply more cotton to those areas. • When sufficient padding has been added, pull the back seam together and pin along the markings. • Check once more for firmness and accuracy of mea­ surements. Mark body lines • Hand stitch the back seam. A curved needle is handy for this step. Step 9. The form is ready to use for fitting, altering, • Pull the bottom of the shell down firmly and staple or remodeling, designing and draping. You will wonder tack to the inside of the dress form . how you got along without it. ■ Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914 in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Leonard C. Douglas, Acting Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Missouri and Lincoln University, Columbia, Missouri 65211. ■ An equal opportunity institution. New 12/79/2M .
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