इंटरनेट मानक

Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public.

“जान का अधकार, जी का अधकार” “परा को छोड न तरफ” Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan Jawaharlal Nehru “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New”

IS 2050 (1991): Glossary of terms relating to footwear [CHD 19: Footwear]

“ान एक न भारत का नमण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

“ान एक ऐसा खजाना जो कभी चराया नह जा सकताह ै”ै Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

.’ IS 2050:1991 .

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(vein ~MVJI) L Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TERMS ~,&ELATING To FOOTWEAR ( First Revision )

UDC 001’4 : 685’3

ED BIS 1991 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI 110002

October 199 I Price Group 1’3 Footwear Sectional Committee, CHD 019

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the Footwear Sectional Committee had been approved by the Chemical Division Council. The Indian Footwear Industry has made considerable progress in the recent years. Lately with the expansion of export market, adequate support and incentive by the Government of India to the footwear industry has been provided for its rapid growth. However, the footwear industry essentially remains a cottage and small-scale industry, with only a few large-scale organized units of production. In order to facilitate unambiguous exchange of commercial and scientific informa- tion within the industry and to promote an increasing usage of scientific terms, indigenous and foreign, which are current in footwear trade, the work of standardization of terminology was considered imperative. It is hoped that this glossary of terms will help to fill this void in the footwear trade, in general and indigenous footwear industry, in particular. In the preparion of this standard, care has been taken to include most of the indigenous terms in common parlance in the Indian footwear trade, together with the synonyms and more common terms in vogue. This glossary of terms, however, limits itself strictly to terms related to footwear in general. General, chemical and other terms pertaining to properietary and patented items in usage have not been included. Terms which may be used in the footwear industry but convey commonly accepted dictionary meanings have also been excluded. Sixteen sketches of traditional basic designs of footwear are given in Annex A. Annex B includes a detailed sketch of leather safety boot and shoe in order to illustrate the various components of a boot or shoe. Sketches of important shoe makers handtools are given in Annex C. This standard does not include footwear machinery items, but includes certain important machine operations as are practised in medium and small-scale industries in the country. In the preparation of this standard, useful assistance has been derived from the following publications: AS 2210 : 1980 Specification for safety footwear, published by the Australian Standards Institution; Dictionary of Leather Technology, Fourth Edition, Tanners, Council of America; KORN (J), Edition 1000, Boot and Shoe Production, Sir Issac Pitmann and Sons Limited, London: THORNTON (JH), Edition 1958, Text Book of Footwear Manufacture, The National Trade Press Limited, London; and WOODROFFE (D), Encyclopaedia of Leather Trade, published in the Leather Trades Review, London, between 1951 and 1955. This standard is intended chiefly to cover the technical definitions of terms and it may not necessarily include all the legal implications of the terms.

IS 2050 : 1991 Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TO FOOTWEAR ( First Revision )

1 SCOPE and crevices so producing the appearance of old and well cared for leather. This standard covers terms and their definitions used in the Indian footwear industry. Applique- A strip or design fixed on to a footwear for decorative purpose. 2 TERMINOLOGY Apres Ski- A man’s or woman’s fur-lined and water A proof boot. Abrading- The roughening up of the over margin Apron Front Shoe - A combination of the basic of the lasted-upper. Derby and Moccasin designs. The difference lies in the front (that is, in the vamp); which has a separate Abrasion Resistance - The ability of a footwear apron laid on or underlaid and which is at times one- material to withstand wear due to abrasion. piece with the tongue. The design is also known as the ‘Ski Design’. Abrasives - Materials, such as emery paper, emery cloth, red flint and carborundum used for scouring or Arch - The long framework of the foot extending buffing soles, heels, etc, of footwear. Roughness of from the heel to the toes. the surface of the abrasives is denoted by grits. Archbrace - A bandage of webbing or leather Accelerator- A substance added to a rubber mix to designed to support arch. accelerate the process of vulcanisation and in other ways to improve the bottom of footwear. Arch of the Foot- A bridge made up by the bones of the foot, mainly to support the body weight. Acme Backer- Plain weave cotton cloth coated on one side with thermoplastic gutta percha or with rub- Arch Spring- The upward curve of the arch of a last ber and wax used for backing uppers. or footwear. Acrobatic Shoe- Shoe made with extra light uppers Arch Support- Stiffening effect given on the inside and soles for acrobatic works. waist of a footwear to give support to the arch of the foot. Wide steel shanks ribbed double or triple length-

Adhesion - A molecular attraction exerted between wise and ribbed across as well are provided to support the surfaces of bodies in contact. the arch in the high class shoes, ammunition boots and corrective footwear to give stiffening effect. Ammunition Roots - Ankle-high sturdy boots of Derby type with six eyelets, full tongue made by Arctic Roots - A type of Over boot originally made riveted, screwed and stitched method for heavy duty from buffalo hide with grain side in and with buckles purposes. These are also known as Ankle Boots. to keep feet dry and comfortable in cold and wet climate. Subsequently rubber has been used for the Ankle Bone - See ‘Astragalus Bone’. manufacture of arctic Over boots without any change in the basic pattern. Ankle Roots- See ‘Ammunition Boots’. Artlflclal Grain- A grain appearance given to a flesh Ankle-Girth Measure - The girth measurement of split by pigment with or without embossing on foot- the leg joint above the ankle. wear upper. Anotomkbeel - Inner side extended forward on Assembling Tack- A tack having a round parallel the shape of “S”. shank made from wire with a square pyramid point, used in the assembling operation. This type of tack is Anterior Arch - The arch of the foot between the driven through the upper material at the top of the phalanges and the matatarsal bone which extends back seam. The head of the tack is very similar to that across the ball of the foot from the outside edge of the of the welted tack. The fine point and shank are first matatarsal to the outside edge of the fifth mata- provided to leave a mark as small as possible on the tarsal. This is also known as ‘Metatarsal Arch’. upper. Antique Finish or Dressing- A dressing applied to Assembly Room - Area in which the closed uppers, an upper and immediately removed except in edges the reinforcing components, the bottom components L 1 Is 2050 : 1991 and the lasts are held and matched up into sets for the Bagged Edge- A method of joining and finishing of insisting room as required. the quarter top edge all round the ankle so that the seam joining the lining with the quarters is about Assembling Upper - Inserting of the prepared com- 5 mm below the folded edge of the quarter. ponents, such as toe-puff, stiffener and side lining, in the respective positions. The term also refers to the Bal- Front laced footwear in which the quarters meet tacking of the upper to the last at the counter point at the vamp unstitched over the quarters at the front of prior to being lasted. the throat. Astragalus Bone- A bone of the human foot located Ballerina- A low cut, light weight, practically flat- in the tarsus group of bones. Also known as ‘Ankle heeled, new-cut type shoe used by women and con- Bone’ or ‘Talus Bone’. structed by direct method of attachment. It has a similarity with ballet dance shoes. Athlete’s Foot - A kind of foot infection due to ringworm, which softens and peels the skin between Ballet Shoe- A type of shoe used for dancing made the toes, and on the sole of the foot causing irritation. of cloth (sometimes of satin) with heavily blocked toes. They are generally made by the turn shoe method Attaching - Attachment of the upper and bottom and are very light and flexible. parts using one of the various methods of attach- ments. Ball Girth Measurement- The circumference of the foot around the middle of the big and small toe joints. Awl- A sharp-pointed tool with a small round handle, generally known as ‘Pricking Awl’ which is used by Ball Line- A line drawn across the widest portion of the upper leather clickers to make the prick holes for a foot or last. the convenience of the upper closer. Ball Point - A point where the first metatarsal bone or meets the phalanges or big toe This point is promi- nently visible on the inside of the foot just adjacent to A sharp flat pointed tool used in the outsole stitching the big toe. machine, similar in shape to the outsole stitching machine needle and which has no hook for taking up Ball Point of Last- A point on the last where pitch the thread. The purpose of this awl is to first pierce the line meets the baseline. outsole and make it easier for the sewing needle to go through the outsole while sewing. Ball Position - See ‘Inside Foot Joint Position’. B Balmoral- A type of gents’ boots or shoes having a closed front-laced ankle. It is characterized by the Backer- A fabric material used to give reinforcement vamp wine extended to either side, to form a golosh. and plumpness in order to reduce stretch in thin leathers like glace kid, calf, lizard, etc. Bar Shoes - A slipper type of shoes with a bar running over the instep from the inside quarter to outside Backing- Laminating a piece of fabric to leather or quarter where it is either fastened with a button or a other component of a footwear by adhesive. buckle.

Backing Cloth - Cloth usually of thin and loose Baseball Shoes- Pumps shoes usually machine sewn, character treated with a solution of gutta percha pasted light and healless, with special sharp metallic rein- on the outside section of the upper to increase its forcement on the heel and ball of the soles. strength and durability. Base of Bone - The lower end of the oscalcis (or Back Splitting - Reduction of sole substance at the calcaneum) bone which is also know as heel bone. heel, seat and waist, mainly done for Louis Heel This is the largest and strongest bone in the tarsus construction. group and is used mainly for transmitting the weight of the body to the ground. Back Stay- Material like taffeta used for reinforce- ment at the top of the back seam and down the facing. Basic Cutting Area - The area which includes pat- A small oblong stay piece cut out of the material is tern area and the unavoidable waste. The pattern area held in position while stitching the lining with the is the space required by the patterns individually. The upper. area between the pattern which cannot be avoided when patterns are laid out together is termed as un- Back Strap - Strap of leather which joins the two avoidable waste. quarters at the back of the boot or shoe to give added strength to the back seam. Basic Shoe Designs - There are sixteen recognized basic shoe designs, namely, (a) Balmoral, (b) Blu- Back Tacking- An operation in upper assembly for cher/Derby, (c) Boot, (d) Brogue, (e) D’orsay, (f) tacking the lower end of the upper on the insole, Ghellic, (g) Gore, (h) Jodhpur, (i) Moccasin/Casual, before feeding it to the machine for pulling over by (k) Mbnk, (m) Mule, (n) Oxford, (p) Pump, (q) San- machine. dal, (r) Fringe/Shawl, and (s) Strap (see Annex A) 2 IS 2050 : 1991 Bask Shoe Types- Footwear are universally classi- Bias Bindings - Fabric bindings cut diagonally as a fied mainly into four types, namely, (a) Sandal, (b) continuous 45O spiral from a circular woven cloth. Moccasin, (c) Moccasin and Sandal combination, and The bias or diagonal structure facilitates binding on (d) Proper shoe (a modified moccasin and sandal). all types of curves. Basket Weave - A style of weave done in leather Bifurcated Heel Pins - Round parallel shank pins upper. used for attaching heels, made from screw wire which are without heads or points, but whose. ends are Beach Sandals - Simple sandals for seaside used bifurcated to increase their holding power. usually of rubber or plastic. Binding- a) The treatment of an edge at top line of Beaded Edge - Forming a neat edge by turning insole by the use of a fabric or leather strip, stitched inside the skived or unskived edge of a section of the and turned in bv different methods. upper. b) Covering the edges of insoles of ladies footwear Beading - The turning in of a skived. or unskived with a strip of leather or fabric. edge of an upper section. Sometimes the skived edge is turned over a cotton tape to give a pleasing appear- Bit Knife- A knife used to even up the inside edge of ance and more strength at the edges. welt and middle sole in order to get the edge uniform in substance. The cutting part of this knife a continu- Bead on Sole Edge - The tiny ridge or bead which ation of the tool itself. will be found on finished sole edge of shoe either on one or both sides. The ridges on the welt and on the Blake Sewn Construction - A method of construc- sole edges are respectively known as welt bead and tion in which there is direct attachment of upper to sole bead. sole. In this method, the upper is lasted to the insole with tacks, staple or thread and the sole is then at- Bedding Sole - Fixing sole in its proper position so tached by vertical chain or by locks stitches. In case as to conform to the bottom shape of the last in of hand method the attachment is made by lock stitches mellow condition. only. Bed Lasting- An operation by which upper at the Blind Eyelet- Where the surface of the eyelet is not toe and seat is wiped to proper position on the insole apparent on the outside of the footwear. and kept in position by cement, wire or tacks. Blind Eyeletting- A method of setting eyelets to the Beech Wood- A hard slightly reddish-brown wood shoe upper in such a way that the eyelet heads show obtained from Fugus sylvutica L., fam. Fegacea suit- on the outside but the barrels do not penetrate the able for last making. This wood does not split and is lining; the clenching being done on the reverse side of free from knots. the upper material or on a reinforcing tape. The lining covers the clenched barrel and so protects the socks or Beeswax- An insect wax prepared from the honey- stocking. combs of either wild or domesticated bees after the removal of honey. Biinding Sole - The portion in which soles are tem- porarily attached with the help of nails and are driven Bellows Tongue- A broad folding tongue stitched to through the last margin of upper and insole. They do the quarter at each side. not penetrate the sole right through and thus give an Belly- The underside of a hide or skin between fore appearance of blind attachment. and hind legs. Blocked Toe - The toe of a footwear without any Belly Size - Those shoe sixes that are commonly in opening at the toe. demand. Block Fitting Upper- A method fitting the upper, Benching - Operation of giving final faking and in which sections of the upper are placed over a fiddling to the shoes, after having passed through all wooden block, similar in shape to the last and posi- the finishing operations, for any slight imperfection tioned to assume a shape relative to the final shape of either in upper or bottom. I the shoe. Bespoke Shoes - Shoes made to order. Block Forme - A method of forme cutting where a whole cut paper forme is first folded to the last and Bevelling- Reducing the substance of certain com- then adhesive strips of paper are pasted all over the ponents of the shoe bottom by skiving, such as sole last in a systematic manner. The folds are removed waist bevelling insole seat bevelling, welt bevelling gradually while doing so. Finally, this is cut along the piece sole bevelling, and graft sole bevelling. feather edge all around and the blocked top position, known as block forme, is separated from the last. Bevel Waist - The sole edge of any welted shoe is bevelled at the waist to give an appearance of a single Block Insole - See ‘Insole Blocking’. sole or a lighter sole. ‘Ihe outersole channel is placed further away from the edge so that the levelling opera- Blocked - Leather preshaped by the moulding op- tion may not damage the stitches. eration. 3 IS 2050 : 1991 B&her Bal- A modified Blucher Shoe in which the Boxer Top - Used to describe elastic, plain or vamp is stitched overlapping the quarter. covered with leather or synthetic when used around collar of a shoe or boot. Blucher Shoe - Shoe patterned after a half boot that is an open throat lace shoe (Derby type). Bracing- Sewing the upper temporarily to the in- sole shoulder, before the lasting rivets are removed to Boot - A name given to any shoe reaching above hold the upper in Position firmly for welt sewing. the ankle or still higher. Braiding- The production of ribbon-like or cord- Bootee - A type of boot with warm lining, usually like textures by inter-lacing of threads or narrow worn by women and children in cold weather. A strips of leather for decorative purposes. Each strand knitted fabric foot covering for infants is also known in braid follows a path of ita own either from side to as bootee. side (for flat braid) or round and round (for tabular braid). Bottom - Bottom face of a footwear sole which extends from toe to heel breast. Brannock - A foot size measuring device with a sliding gauge to measure fitting. Bootline- A short casual boot that hita the ankle and Break- The wrinkling of leather in the fore part of usually is worn with stretched paints. the shoes caused by flexing in-walking. Bottom Filler - The material used to fill up the Breasting- Trimming or cutting down the front or cavity formed by the lasted over margin of the upper the breast of the heel with either a power-driven, and insole. suitably shaped descending knife or by hand knife. Bottom Finishing Shoe - The finishing room Breast Scouring of Heel- Smoothening the breast aperations, such as trimming, scouring, inking, and of the heel by scouring. polishing, in order to improve the appearance of the finished, shoe. Brocades- Made of cotton, silk or rayon or metallic covering, with additional silk weft threads of gold or Bottoming- The attachment of the lasted footwear silver included to give a pattern, usually backed with to the sole by direct or indirect method of construc- cotton cloth, for fancy type of footwear. tion. BreganL A heavy work shoe with pegged or nail sole Bottom Levelling - Levelling either on machine construction. under high pressure or by hand using sleeking sticks Brogue - A balamoral type of low cut laced heavy to give the bottom a good shape and remove all soled shoe, sometimes trimmed with pinking perfora- bumpiness after the soles are stitched and channel- tions and stitching. closed. Brogue Shoe- A balamoral type of shoe with perfo- Bottom Manipulation - Clicking or cutting of rations and gimpings on the upper. bottom componeets. Buckles- A kind of metallic fitting used in footwear Bottom Stock or Rough Stuff - A collective name for fastening straps and for decorative purposes. given to various bottom components used in footwear construction, such as outer sole, insole, welt, heel Buckram- A stiff fabric laminated or otherwise used lifts, and heel top pieces. for backing light upper leathers specially at the flesh sides. Bow - A decorative accessory for women’s shoes Buffmg- Removing a thin layer from the grain side sometimes on the vamp or sometimes at the ends of of the sole or insole by use of abrasive to give it a finer the laces. look or to allow the penetration of colour and prevent Boxing- The final operation in which the shoes are cracking. packed in boxes in pairs, ready to go out of the Built Heel- Complete heel composed of lifts, special factory. lifts, top piece, slugged, compressed and breasted, and made to the required height. Box Toe - A stiffener used to maintain and rein- force the shape of the shoe toe, preserve the toe- Bunching- Term applied to the action of the bottom room allowed within the shoe, and to protect the filling shifting from its own place and bunching or wearer’s toes from blows. Rigid box toes are made of depositing ,at different places forming humps and leather, thermoplastic resin-impregnated fibre, sol- causing annoyance to the wearer. vent-softened plastic-impregnated fibre, and water- softened starch-impregnated buckram. Flexible box Bunion - An inflamatory swelling of the bursa over toes are made of thermoplastic cork combination the metatarso-phalangeal joint of the great toe caused with fabric backing, and plastic laminates placed by undue pressure and friction being brought upon between fabric sheets. Soft box toes a’re made of that particular portion of the foot. rubberized felt or fabric. Metal box toes are used in Bunking- Putting a fancy pattern oathe sole edge of some safety footwears. the shoe b&tom by means of an adjustable heated tool

4 IS 2050 : 1991 which usually runs over the channel to hide any fault Canvas Boots - Boots of canvas upper and rubber in chamtelling or channel laying and to improve the bottom in which unvulcanized rubber sole is directly appearance of the footwear bottom. attached with the upper and then vulcanized. Bunking Wheel- An appliance having a wheel used Canvas Lining- A plain weave heavy cotton cloth, for giving embossed decoration on the edge of a used for lining of heavy shoes, usually combed and gummed or damped finished sole. A patterned im- waterproofed. pression is produced in a series of short straight strokes Canvas Shoes - Shoes of canvas upper and rubber or any other design. bottom in which the unvulcanized rubber sole is Burned Sole- When leather is heated above llO”C, directly attached to the upper by vulcanizing. it becomes brittle and breaks off. Cap - An attached or imitation cap with a central Burnished Edge, Upper - The treatment of a spe- peak and curved on either side, somtimes perforated. cially skived edge given to cheap quality footwear Carriage Boot - A loosely made boot of leather or by a special machine in which the fibres on the edges fabric often fur trimmed and intended to be worn in are burnt to give a slightly curled appearance and to winter by women being clipped over the ordinary give a false folded edge. shoes or slippers. Commonly worn over evening Burnishing - Polishing to secure a bright glossy slippers. finish. Camauba Wax - A hard, pale yellow or brown commercial wax obtained as an exudation from leaves Burnishing Heels - The application and impregna- of the wax palm Coperniciu cerifera Mart., fam. tion of wax into the heel by the use of heated imple- Palmae. Due to its high melting point long lasting ments . gloss it is generally used for footwear polishes in con- Butted Seam - Seam produced by joining two corn- junction with other waxes. portents, edge to edge, by zig-zig seam. Cartons - Standard sized cardboard boxes in which the footwear are packed before being despatched from Butt Jointed Sole - A three quarter sole with toung- ing at the heel end, used with fitted heels, the semi the factory. louis or cuban type. Caster Shape - Shape of outer soles and insoles so designed as to contain within their area sufficient Buttons - Fittings used for fastening and for decora- space to enable other shapes to be c.:.i from them. tive purposes. Casual Footwear - Any footwear of light construc- C tion, suitable for informal or casual wear which is easy to slip on without any fastening device. Cack- A smallest-soled shoe without heel and soft upper (size l-5) for infants. Cavalier Boot- Men’s boot made of soft upper stock, ankle high usually with two inch folded collar, crimped Calcaneum- The largest bone in the human foot and or molded front. one of the bones of the tarsus group which is situated at a distance of the foot length measured from the Celnstlc Toe-Puff- A hard toe-puff made of raised back. The body weight is transmitted to the ground to cotton cloth, either single or double, impregnated a large extent through this bone. with cellulose and available either in sheet form or in pieces out to the shape of the puff. Softening of California Slip-lasted Construction- In this method toe-puff in solvent before insertion and quick lasting the upper is stitched on to the sock lining which in of the shoe after insertion is necessary. turn is stitched to the heel and platform cover. A last is then forced into the cavity so formed. The wedge Celluloid Eyelets - Eyelets having brass as their heel and the platform are stuck to the socklining into base with their head covered with a heavy coating of position and their edges are covered. Finally, the sole viscous celluloid solution. is attached by cementing. Celluloid Toe-Puff - Layers of fabric impreg- Calf Measurement - Girth measurement at the calf nated with cellulose solution kept in moist condition of the leg. in air-tight containers. This puff requires no skiving along the cap-edge, the effect of skiving being pro- California Process- See California Slip-lasted Con- duced by stepping the layers of fabrics when they are struction. stuck together. Softening of the puff is not required before insertion but quick lasting is essential. Calking Machine- An appliance to depress or shape the inner sole to make it conform to the shape. Cement- A general term applied to adhesive materi- als in footwear industry. Callous - A spot of thickened and toughened skin formed as a result of pressure and friction on the sole, Cementing- Application of cement on roughened or heel and side of the foot, later develops into a corn. scoured portion of the footwear by brush or machine. IS 2050 : 1991 Cemented Construction - A method of footwear Chiropody - Branch of service or science dealing constructioit, in which the upper may be secured to with professional care and treatment of the foot. the insole with thread, tacks, staples or cement (adhe- sive.material) and then the sole is attached to upper Chrome Sole - Sole of chrome tanned leather and insole by cement under pressure. strongest and lightest, slippery, porous and has a rough edge. Cemented Shoes - Shoes manufactured by cemented method. Church- A device to measure the foot size and fitting number. Cement Lasting - Lasting of footwear uppers using adhesive. Chukka Boots- See ‘Jodhpur Boots’. Chain Stitch- A type of stitch, made by one thread Circles - A small horsed shoe shape oval or round only. The view resembles lock stitches but the under tubelet of steel, to be drawn into the heels of shoes to side gives the appearance of a chain. It is character- prevent undue wear. ized by the fact that the entire thread may be pulled Circular Vamp- A vamp so cut as to join the quarter when one stitch is cut or broken. in a seam on each side of the shoe, running down to ChanneIIing- The production of a groove or chan- the shank. nel in the leather in which the stitching is laid while Clarks Children Foot Gauge - A fitting board used attaching the soles and other parts. for measuring children’s feet. The length is measured Channelling Insole - In the welted insoles two by one sliding block and the ball girth by a tape on the parallel hinged panels are cut or a single panel is cut other sliding block. The board is so designed that both on the flesh side between leather substance either al- the feet can be measured on it without reversing the round or from one side of the breast of the heel to the board. other round the edge to enable welt sewing. Claw Foot - A deformity of the foot in which the A single open channel is also cut on the grain side or inner longitudinal arch is accentuated, and the toes the insole for single sole construction to enable the are drawn up and curled. stitches to be embedded in the channel. Clearance pulls - Careful pulls given for clearing Channel Laying- Closing the channel lip after sole feather edges in lining, stiffeners, toe caps, etc, prior stitching by applying cement to the channel or other- to fastening with tacks during lasting. wise and rubbing the lip down. Clicking- Cutting the footwear components out of Channelling Soles- Making a slanting cut along the upper leather or other materials with the help of edge or cutting on an open groove at an angle along templates or clicking dies. the edge of the sole on the grain side. The sole stitches Clicklng~Board - Board of suitable timber blocks, are concealed or bedded in this channel to avoid wear plastics, rubber, zinc sheet, glass or any other suitable with or without lip being closed. material, used for clicking of uppers. Channel Lip - The portion of the leather, which is Clicking Dies - See ‘Clicking Knife, Press’. raised up after cutting to open the channel either in the insole or sole. Clicking Knife, Hand- A knife having a wooden or plastic handle with a metallic sleeve which is tight- Channel Opening- An operation to raise the lip of ened by screwing the handle holding the blade, known the channel after cutting to facilitate sewing. as extension blade. Chappal - Sandals without back straps but with Clicking Knife, Press - A knife made out of high cross-over straps on the forepart referred to as chap- speed steel to the exact shape of the component to be pals (see also Sandal). cut, used for clicking by machine. Charme Wood - A light coloured, close textured Climbing Boot- A strong, warm and waterproof boot hardwood, free ‘from knots, obtained from charme with nails fitted at the bottom and round the edge of used in the construction of wooden lasts (also known the sole with a special type of staples. The fitting of as French wood or Hornbeam) Carpinus caroliniana the boot should not be loose but should be roomy Walt., fam. Betulaceae. enough to allow free functioning of the circulation of blood to prevent frost-bite. Chauffeurs Foot- A vocational disorder of the fore- Clip- Describes a shoe or a boot which fits tightly on part of the foot. the last round the top line. Chilblain - An inflamation of the foot following Clipper - Same as Boxer Top. freezing or continuous exposure to extreme cold. Consumables - Same as Findings. Chiropodist- One who is engaged in the practice of chiropody or podiatry, a service of foot care profes- Closed Seam - Joining two components of upper sionally administered. by a seam along the edge, then opening out and

6 IS 2050 : 1991 flattening. A fabric or leather strip is attached on the Combination Last- A last some part of which varies top of the seam on which two rows of stitches are from the usual standard measurement. made on either side of the seam. Combination Metbod of Cutting Leather- Method Clog- A heavy soled very low cut boot or shoe with of cutting leather where components of more than one wooden or cork soles and used for wet ground. size or design and shape are cut at a time from a side of skin, with a view to utilizing leather to the maxi- CR&g- Assembling the components of the upper by mum without affecting the quality. stitching of other fastening method. Combined Fabric, Lining- A fabric lining for vamp Closing Hammer- A metal tool like a hammer head attached to swansdown or flannelette with latex or without a handle used for folding of parts of footwear paste. by hand. Combined Shanks- Shanks prepared by combina- Closed Stick Assembly - An assembly made by the tion of steel and fibreboard or wood and fibreboard. application of adhesive to a single workpiece or both The steel or wood provides rigidity and the board acts workpieces to result forthwith in a joint, suitable for as a filler. the porous material which is capable of evaporating off the solvent. Common Sense Heel- Low flat heel. Clubfoot- Clubfoot also called talipes is a deformity Comfort Shoe- Soft, flexible, low heeled easy shoes of the foot. The word talipes is derived from two latin for women. word, tails meaning ‘ankle and pes meaning ‘foot’. There are four types of clubfoot depending on the Compo- A proprietory name for the original modem position in which the foot is held, that is, talipes process of cementing sole and upper together with equinus - the persons walks on the toe, talipes cal- pyroxylin cement. caneous - the person walks on the heel, talipes varus - the persons walks on the outside of the foot, and Component Splitting - Operation of reducing the talipes valgus- the persons walks on the inner side of thickness of the footwear components by passing the the foot. individual components through a splitting machine having a flat or band type knife. Cobler - A mender or maker of footwear. Composite Last- Same as Combination Last. Coblers Seam - A seam made by stitching through and through the pieces being laid so that the edges are Composite Method- Riveted, stitched and screwed even. method of construction used for heavy boots. Code Marking- Blind sizes as used in footwear. Composition Sole - Rubber based with i. _ Jients mixed to lighten or fortify mass of sports footwear. Cold Setting Filler - Cold process bottom filler consisting of granulated cork, asbestos, leather or Conditioning of the Upper - Softening the upper wood fibres or combination of these, bonded together with heat and moisture to facilitate lasting operation. with rubber or cellulose solution. The filler gets hard- Concealed Wedge- The wedge heel covered in the ened on evaporation of the solvent with application of normal way and stuck to the previously covered through external heat or pressure.. platform.

Collor- A narrow stitched-on strip of leather around Conforming of Soles- The operation of shaping the the outside of the top of the boot or shoe for omamen- sole before applying it to the footwear, so that it can tal effect. conform to lasts that carry a high heel or have a Colonial - A low shoe for women wear, having a rounded waist. tongue outside with an ornamental buckle across over Congress Gaiter- An ankle high shoe with leather the waist. or cloth top adjusted to the ankle by a gusset or Colour I$arklng- In ‘this method the lasting edges rubber. of the sectional parts are painted with definite colour to indicate the sizes. This method is also used in the Continental Heel- A slender type of heel generally identification of lasts by colouring the top projected with a curved breast line but usually with less curve portion of the last with definite colour to indicate the in the back line than the Louis heel. It has a lip size. which extends partly under the shank of the shoe and usually ranges in height from 50 to 70 mm. The breast Comb- The section of the last corresponding to the of the heel is vertically straight. Straight front high forepart of the foot immediately beneath the ankle. heel with slightly shaped back to give smart and Shoe lasts are much thinner at this part than that of the modem tough-look. foot and the hollowness in the comb assists in ena- bling the shoe quarters to grip the foot properly. Convalescent Boot - A counterless boot used to permit early ambulation following injury or surgery. Combat Boot- A special type of boot with high heel and eyelets up to the highest point worn now-a-days Copper Toe- A copper boxing or lip used to protect by wrestlers and originally by Roman warriors. the toe in the children shoes. 7 IS 205Q : 1991 Cordwainer- The very first trade guild started in the Crepe Fabric - A plain weave silk or rayon fabric year 1087. used for sandal and ladies shoe upper. Hard twisted yarns are used in the weft which by shrinking give Cordurcy - A complex weave weft pile fabric made pebbled appearance to the cloth. of cotton with ribs running the length of the material, used for uppers of sandals and casual shoes. Creedmore- A cheap, heavy boot or shoe for men, blucher cut with bellows tongue. Cork, Processed - Waste cork granulated and bonded together with suitable adhesive under heat Crepe Rubber Sole - A rubber sheet of varrying and pressure to produce required block or sheet used thickness used as outer sole. The sheet is produced by for a bottom components in footwear. coagulation of latex and passed between a series of steel rollers, roughly scored on the face which imparts Corns, Hard - A small deep-rooted horny formation a pattern to the rubber which is called crepe. usually formed on the toes due to constant friction or pressure at a particular point by using tight or ill Cresol- A heavy work boot or shoe of the congress fitting boots or shoes.. type having rubber gorings in the boots/shoes. Corrective Footwear - Specially made footwear for Cricket Roots- Strong ankle boots having a low heel defective foot to overcome abnormalities in the foot. made out of either white leather or canvas, either by machine sewn or welted method. Corruguting Waist - Adorning the waist of certain classes of footwear by a heated dual knife from waist Crimping- To make folds or pleats in the whole-cut to heel-breast at an angle of approximately 300 pro- upper to facilitate lasting in Moccasin type of slip- ducing a series of parallel lines. pers. Counter- A piece of stiffening material which passes Crowning - A name given to a type of decorative around the heel of the boot/shoe to support the outer emboss mark similar to bunking across the middle of leather. In orthopaedic shoes the counter is extended the sole joining the two joints. Sometimes it is put just forward in the innerside. In heavy and industrial boots/ below the breast of the heel. shoes for miners, furnacemen and steel workers, metal counters are used on the outside of the boot and shoe. Crow Wheel - An indented metal wheel used for It may also mean a small piece of lining material crowing. stitched inside the boot and shoe at the back to retain Cuban Heel- A straight fronted medium or high heel the small stiffener specially in the unlined boot and used mainly on women’s shoes and cowboy boots and shoe. One upper portion of the boot and shoe back is some men’s fashion shoes. The height varies nor- also known as counter. mally from 35 to 54 mm. Counter Pocket- In unlined shoes a leather piece is Cubold- A bone resembling a cube and located in the stitched at the back to conceal the stiffener or counter tarsus group. which forms a pocket. Cuff- A strip of leather wider than a collar sewed Counter Point - A point on the back line of the last around the top of a shoe and boot. at a distance of one-fifth of the standard last length from the bottom edge of the last. It may be lowered Cuniifoms- Three wedge shaped bones located in according to the changes in fashion. the tarsus group. Coupling Heel- Fitting snugly the heel to the con- Cupped Sole- Applied to the depressions in the sole vex seat of the sole.of the shoe by making the cup of caused by the ball of the foot in wearing. the heel concave in many ways. Curtain Crepe Welted Construction- This method Court Shoes- Low cut vamp lightweight pump type is same as ‘Goodyear welted method’ except that a shoes either with low or high heels. Originally the strip of plain or corrugated crepe rubber of required upper was in one piece. width instead of a welt is sewn to the insole and upper. The crepe sole is stuck and trimmed and then the Covered Wedge- The wedge heel stuck to the sock crepe rubber is turned back on to the sole and stuck to lining and covered with a wrapper which has been its edge. previously stitched with sock lining. Curttie- Men’s low straight oxford shoe with silk tie. Cow Boy Boots- Long boots with high tops and high Also applied to women’s two or three eyelet ties heels worn by western cow boy’s, now known as usually on Blucher pattern. . Dude Ranch Novelty shoe. Cushion Sole - A padded inner side. Crease on Setting Iron- Either one or two creases on either side of the bed of edge setting iron which help Cushion Insole - A term generally used for insole in producing the bead in the finished sole edge. These covered with synthetic or natural foam or sponge creases produce tiny ridges on either edge of the sole sheet or felt and then both the units covered with or on one edge producing a bead on the trimmed sole leather or other materials to give a cushioning effect edge. to the footduring wear.

8 IS 2050 : 1991 Custom Made - Made by hand to the customers’ The effect of these wrinkles is to cause the toe of special order. the forme to be twisted across the front of the last resulting in a dead forme when finally cut. Custom Toe-t’This designation intended to refer to a toe and last of standard type. -Upper- Producing a fancy effect on upper by punching, stitching or gimping. Cutlau Nails - Nails in lengths from 5 to 16 mm having rectangular head and shank, the headtapering Decorative - In general, denotes a section or treat- down into the shank, used to attach as well as to ment which has no real utility value in the footwear reinforce top pieces and soles. but is only intended for decoration. Cut Off Vamp- A vamp which is cut off at the tip Del-Mac Cemented Constructkm - A method of ‘and stitched. (/* construction of footwear in which no insole is used. i The sole serves the purpose of both sole and insole. Cut Out- One or more pie&s cut out of upper of a The sole is split all round the edges to a width of about boot and shoe for style effects. ; 20 mm. The upper is lasted to the flesh split and the sole grain split is attached with cement. The sole is Cu’t Soles - Soles cut ready for selling in different cut to the size of the insole of the last with a little sizes and sha+ with different thicknesses. allowance for finishing. Cut Stock- The ready cut components of footwears Delwelt System- A system of construction similar to for further used in closing or making room. the Del-Mac construction with the use of a skeleton insole. This insole is channelled on its underside and Cut Tacks- Tacks used in machine construction of attached by horizontil chain stitch to a welt. The footwear resembling hand tacks, made either with insole has a canvas reinforcement and a full length sharp or blunt points. sock is inserted. Cutting ,Area - The final area obtained from the Denalllng - Removal of nails used for temporary pattern area of footwear after a number of additions or attachment of insoles with last. coefficients have been made for to allow for the number of pieces, their shape and interlocking ptop- Deportment - An assembly of articles which have, erties, quality of leather, size of skin and other factors. from the commercial point of view, certain features in common for making footwear. Cutting Soles, Direct - A system by which entire material is brought beneath the press and cut direct Derby Shoe - An open throat, laced shoe with a into parts. This system requires duplication of knives tongue, cut in one piece with the vamp or separa;_ly. and press with larger cutting areas. The quarter lies over the vamp. Cutting Soles from Ranges- A system in which the Desmodur- An isocynate mixed in trichloroethylene leather is first divided into small strips or ranges solvent, used with adhesives to speed up drying time before being brought to the press to be cut into soles. and self curing and to increase bond strength. In this system parts dan be cut in pairs with a single knife. Dextrine Adhesive - Adhesive prepared from dex- trine in water which has good tack and bond strength. D It is used for toe puff and counter cementing and bottom tilling. It dries brittle and therefore cannot be Damps Down Eottom - A type of transparent wax used for upper. finish containing some fillers and binders which is generally given to the sole of good colour, used on Direct Attachment of Sole - A method of attach- better grades of footwears. This finish is also know as ment in which the upper and the insole are directly natural finish. joined to the sole by stitching, riveting, pegging or screwing. Dancers Foot - A painful condition of the large toe joint. Direct Cutting of Bottom - An operation of cutting the bottom stock of a particular ready shape from the Dancing Shoes- Low cut, laced, light footwearwith bend or side which may not be convenient for units flexible soles used for dancing. producing various shapes simultaneously. Dancing Slipper - General name applied to various types of low cuts used for dancing including low cut Direct Moulded Construction- A process involving laced shoes used by dancers. the use of presses, where by rubber soling compound in the unvulcanized condition is pressed and cured Dauber- A small brush used to apply polish to shoe on to the leather or canvas upper previously lasted to or boot. the insole. Moulding and vulcanization of rubber compound and adhesion to the upper are carried out Dead Forme - A term used in footwear designing simultaneously. and pattern cutting. While cutting inside or outside forme with the help of a full piece of paper, a Direct Moulded Sole - The upper and sole of the footwear are formed and sole is cut to the desired number of wrinkles occur particularly at the joint line. 9 IS 2050 : 1991 shape. A mould is placed around the sole and ther- Drag Knife - A cutting tool used for cutting sole mostatically controlled heat softens sole and com- edge. It has a concave blade and a projection or guard pound. Pressure applied then forces the sole into the to protect the upper from being cut away. desired shape. Chemical changes taking place in the sole result in the vulcanization of the sole with the Dressing - Cleaning and polishing footwear with upper material for a firm bond. This method is most liquid/paste polishes and creams. popular with sports shoes/boots and heavy shoes/boots. Dressing of Upper - Treatment given to footwear Direct Vulcanization - The process of ‘curing’ a uppers before they are finally packed. It consists of rubber compound (originally in soft unvulcanized checking of evenness of the shade of footwear uppers condition) under high pressure to the lasted upper of and giving a final coat of the footwear-dressing. the footwear. Metal moulds produce the shape re- Dress Shoe - Oxford type, black shoe without toe- quired for the complete bottom. caps used for evening wear. It is now used for any Direct Vulcanized Shoe - See ‘Direct Moulded shoe which is not casual, sport or work shoe or slip- Construction’. per. Dompedro- A heavy buckle shoe. Driving File - An old, cast off, flat file used for driving nails and rivets, taking out the feather edge Dorsum - The top of the foot, that is, the upper and flattening the pleats of uppers on insole. It is surface of the foot. better than a hammer as’it has a flat surface. Doped Finish - A finish given to the uppers having Dry-Stick Assembly - A method by which an adhe- fancy colours at the stage of shoe finishing, This is a sive is applied to both the surfaces of the work pieces coat of pigment with proper binder which is applied to which are then left open until the solvent is evapo- the shoe upper matching with the colour of the upper. rated. The two adhesive coated surfaces are then brought togehter and pressed, when due to auto- Dorsal.Muscle- The muscles of the dorsal surface of adhesion or dry tack of the adhesive film, an adhesive the foot which helps the extensor longus digitorum to strength is obtained immediately which approximates extend the four inner toes and tends to draw them in to the final strength. This state does not occur for a the outward direction. long time in the close assembly method. D’Orsay- A pump shoes, cut low on both sides, the Dutchman - A wedge inserted between the lifts of curves extending downward towards the centre of the the heels or between insole and outsole to throw the shank and meeting in a broad V-shape. foot inward or outward, used to correct posture. Double Dect Welt - A kind of welt prepared by Dutch Heel- Wide base, slanting straight to narrower spliting the edge of the welt and then doubling the top lift. grain upward to form a bead. A mw of stitches is then run through the bead to give the effect of double welt on finished shoe. E Double Eyeletting - In this method of ,eyeletting Edge Burnkbing- See ‘Burnished Edge’. heavy duty footwear, two operations are performed. Edge Seating- See ‘Burnished Edge’. In the first operation, one large eyelet is inserted from inside the upper through the lining and the outside Edge Setting- Finishing the edges of the soles with material and clenched on the surface, then in the polish applied under. heavy pressure by rubbing or second operation another eyelet of smaller diameter ironing the edges with or without wax to give a fine barrel is inserted from the outside and clenched uniform finish and gloss and impart water proofness. with the head of the first eyelet so that the head of the second covers completely the clench of the first Edge Tie - A one eyelet tie for women, stitched eyelet. close at the throat and having a small pointed tongue. Edge Treatment- Giving different treatments to the Double Guarded Forepart Iron - An edge iron edge of the upper components, ,and to the edge of the with guard on both sides. soles and heels during the manufacturing processes, Dowie Slipper Construction - A method of foot- such as skiving, gimping, binding and edge trimming. wear constnlction in which the upper is laid over the Edge Trimming- Shaping the edges of the soles by last before which a string is passed through the lasting trimmers to obtain required shape of edges (fudge edge of the upper and when drawn tightly, moulds the edge, bevelled edge, round edge, square edge, exten- upper to the last. At this stage the sole is attached. sion edge, etc). This type of footwear requires very soft upper. The construction is very flexible. Edging- Removing the sharp edges of the leather in a variety of ways, such as brushing and ironing. Drafting- A process in which the initial stretch of the upper is taken out to give an approximate shape of Elntiicized- Shoes with upper surface of stretchable the last prior to actual lasting. This consists of a series leather or fabric backed with flexible yam woven of pulls taken in different directions. fabric. 10 IS 2050 : 1991 English Channel- A channel which is generally cut Eyeletting- Fastening eyelets to the footwear upper. on the soles a few millimetres away-from the edge approximately at an angle of 4S” to facilitate the Eyelet Tab- A reinforcement placed at the front of stitching. the quarters of boots/shoes to give added strength to eyelets or lace holes. Elastic Stocking - A surgical appliance made of rubber fabric. F Eiastomee - Various macromolecular materials Fabric Blade - A bevelled point blade used in the which have rubber like properties and are used for adjustable clicking knife for cutting of fabric lining. footwear bottoms. This blade is normally about 115 mm long. One end of this blade is sharpened to give a straight but sloping Embossing- A method of printing or raising up cutting edge of about 32 mm. ornamentation qn a surface by heat and pressure. Facing- The portion of the quarter which carries the English Foot - Mode with a side seam in the foot. eyelets, for lacing which can be either whole-cut with English Last - Last with long recede toe and low the quarter or joined. heel. Facing Materials - The pieces of material used be- English Welt - A mock welt. tween the upper and the lining at the face of the quarters (where eyelets are fitted) to strengthened and Everett- A type of men’s slipper low in the back but to increase the holding power of eyelets on the upper. coming up over the waist in front to the instep. Facing Rows- Decorative stitching which is put par- Escape Boot- Flying boots, fleece lined for warmth allel to the row of eyelets or sometimes in other which in addition have a sharpnel-proof leg lining decorative manner. consisting of loose layers of silk. The leg part of the boot catt be cut off leaving a normal Oxford shoe Faille Lining- An attractive plain weave fabric with enabling the baled-out airmen to escape more easily a close rayon warp and thick cotton weft. The backof from enemy territory without recognition. this is covered with elastic material. This is generally used as reinforcement for very soft leather like suede. Evening Shoes - Shoes usually made of patent leather by the turn shoe method of construction. For Fair Stitching - Stitching applied around the sole gents, evening shoes are Oxford type with laces of showing on the upperside to imitate welt. light construction. For ladies, these are light shoes Fair Stitched Construction - In this method, first made of fabric, gold or silver kid upper or sandals insole, upper and the middle sole are sewn together made by cemented method. and then the sole is stitched to the projected edge of Evening Soles and Insoles- Levelling of the bottom the middle sole. components to uniform thickness by splitting a layer Fake Bottom- A kind of black waxy finish generally from the flesh side. applied by hand to the bottom of footwear at the stage Everest Boot - Boots of light weight, high thermal of bottom finishing over the buffed surface of the sole insulation and strength; with correct fitting for climb- to give a shine on polishing. ing high altitudes. These have a provision to take Fakes - Water emulsified waxes to produce oil-in- easily detachable crampons for use on ice to put on water dispersions which may be of a thin creamy and take off. These boots are modified form of boots nature or in the form of thick paste. used for Everest expedition in 1953. False Welt - A strip of leather or any other suitable Exhaustive Cutting Leathem - A method by which material stitched or stuck along with extended edge of the leather unit is cut for full utilization of area. the sole iesembling a welt. Extensors - The muscles of the top of the foot, the Faust Slipper- A light weight shoe with V shaped contraction of which raises the toe upwards the knee. cuts at sidesinstead of U shape and no goring. Extension Edge - An extra wide edge. Feather- Edge of the bottom of a last a11 around. Extosls- A bony cut growth from the surface of a Featherod- An edge thinned down to create mini- bone. mum resistance or obstruction. Feather Edge - Thin edge in turned or cemented Eyelets - An annular ring of metal or other material with a barrel for inserting in footwear upper to pro- footwear. vide a durable ring for lacing. Regular eyelets are Feathering Insole- Bevelling of the flesh side edge driven-in from the outside of the upper. Blind eyelets of the insole either all around or only at the seat to are cdncealed on the inner side of the upper, leaving facilitate moulding of the upper over the insole. the lace hole with a raw edge on theoutside. The head may be of different shapes; that is hexagonal, triangu- Felt - A sheet made of fibres of wool hair, fur, etc, matted together and rolled flat. lar or square. 11 IS 2030 : 1991 Felt Sole -I Soles compounded from felt and rubber Fitted Heels - Wooden heels used in ladies’ foot- latex to be used as outer soles for light indoor foot- wear. They are not placed on the top of the sole seat wear. as is usually done but the sole is cut away to make room for the heel to be fitted so that the breast of the Fibre Board- Board made out of materials based wooden heel fits the cut edge and the outer edge of the on leather fibres or alphacellulose fibres or a combi- heel rests directly upon the leather edge of the heel. nation of leather and alphacellulose fibrea that are generally used for insoles and counters. Fitting of Foot - The ball measurement of the foot in relation to the size of the foot is denoted by the Fibula- One of the two calf bones on the outer side term fitting. These can be split up into any number, of the leg. The lower end of this bone makes up the but ten have been considered sufficient which may outer ankle bone. be denoted by letters or by numbers. The difference between the fittings is 64 mm. Fiddle Shanks - High arched steel shanks suitable for high heeled ladies’ footwear. These are made from Fittings - Measurements of girths of the last in rela- about 12.5 mm wide steel and are full width for about tion to the lengths which may be split into any number half the distance from the heel-end; then narrowing it but ten have been considered sufficient. These fittings to about 8 mm at the waist and forepart. The shank has can either denoted by A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, XH and a V-shaped cut at the seat end having a tack hold at l/2 or by numbers 0, 1, 2, 3, etc. The difference each end. between the fittings is 6.4 mm. Fiddle Waist- A method of finishing the waist of the Fitting Up- A term applied to the gathering together shoe bottom in two colours. Fiddle waists are made of the bottoming components according to the with wax, and hand finish stains and the forepart is instruction slip. finished in a lighter shade of the same preparation, usually of cream colour. The line separating the fore- Fitting Stool - A low slanting topped stool upon part from the waist may be straight, concave, convex which the footwear salesman sits when trying with a or at times resembling a fish tail. A part of the footwear; it has a ledge to rest the foot of the customer waist is sometimes coloured like upper to give a light while adjusting the footwear. appearance to the shoe. Flange Heel - A heel made with a flare towards the Fille - A finely ribbed fabric used in women’s shoe “top lift” or bottom of the heel as the footwear stands uppers when worn. Filler- A composition of cork or felt or rubber or spur Flange Joint of the Sole and Piece Sole - A method glass or substance made of sawdust or felt gunny to of joining piece sole with graft sole. For this purpose fill the gap space between sole and insole caused due the ends of the components to be joined are bevelled to lasting operation. at the same angle so thit a perfect joint is possible. Finding - A general term applied to articles which Flanging Upper- Turning out the edge of the upper incidental or accessory to the manufacturer such as kept as lasting allowance, instead of turning it in, in laces, trimm, polishes, dressings, creams, waxes, lasting operation for Veldtschoen method. cements, rubber heels, buckles, shanks, heel plaktes, shoe horns, shoe brushes, insoles, etc. Flannel - A raised cotton cloth used for inner linning of shoes. Finders Sole bather - Sole leather general1.y used by the repairers. It is usually hard and firm in nature Flap Setting- An operation by which the leather sole and less wear resistant. edge covering the heel seat and breast area (Louis heel) is set. , Finger Foxed - Having a pieced quarter so cut that the heel foxing extends forward to the throat in a Flap Splitting- Dividing the sole for Louis heel at narrow strip below the quarter. the seat to allow a part to go up the heel and the rest under the heel. Finger Stitching - Stitching which reinforces the lapped quarter of a shoe or boot. Flap Sticking- Sticking up or attaching the flap to the breast and top of the heel (Louis heel construc- Finishing Footwear - The fined operation per- tion) with the help of glue or any other suitable formed on footwear after constructional work has adhesive. been completed to improve quality of the footwear by making the edge resistant to water and by improving Flap Trimming- An operation by which the split its appearance. sole edge of heel breast area and seat area (Louis heel) is trimmed. Finishing Last - Specially made last on which foot- wear are generally finished. This last is made in two Flat Binding- A kind of edge binding done in one parts hinged together with half size shorter and half operation. Special stitching machine turns the binding fitting less than the lasting last. The last is rounded in U shape and then stitches through, The up+ may be lined orunlined. more in the heel seat portion. 12 IS 2050 : 1991 Flat Flttlng- Positioning of section to section of the occupational footwear, orthopaedic and surgical upper on a flat base prior to stitching. footwear meant for the use of babies, children, ladies or gents. Flat Foot - H&an foot in which the arch or the arches specially the internal metatarsal arch have Footwear Components - Any fabricated or semi- either been broken due to some reason or have not fabricated component made of various kinds of been developed as in normal foot. materials or combination of materials such as leather, canvas, textiles, wood and synthetics for use in the Flats or Flatties - A general term for shoe styles manufacture of the footwear. with low wedge heels. Force Lasted Construction - See ‘California Step- Flattened Foot- A term foot once normal but fallen lasted’. down through changes in position of ones. Force Lasting- Operation of forcing the last in the Flat Last - A last with little arch or toe spring upper is called force lasting. Thus in certain construc- Flexibility - The ease with which the bottom or tion where the insoles are stitched together with the upper components of a footwear can be bent. This is upper, the last is to be forced in for the subsequent one of the requisite properties of a footwear compo- operations in the making department. nent which facilitates to the easy bending of foot- Forepart- The front portion of the footwear which wear components along with foot movement during may either refer to upper or the sole or shoe-last. walking. Flexors - The muscles of the sole of the foot, the Forepart Cutter- Type of disk-shaped knives with contraction of which brings the foot in a line with the cutting blades around the circumference mounted at leg. the end of a spindle revolving at a high speed, em- ployed to trim the forepart of the footwear. There are Flight Boots - Fleece linked boots usually with a various types of these cutters to give different types zipper closure worn by pilots and flight crews. of edges. Floating Edge Finish of Sole - Finishing of sole Forme- The word ‘forme’ is derived from the French edge by which the under edge of the sole remains word for last but the term in footwear trade is used in more projected than the top edge. pattern cutting to signify the shape that is produced to Flying Boots - Boots used by airmen. These boots represent the area of one side of a last. There are, are light, flexible, waterproof and capable of with- therefore, hvo formes, one for the inside and one for standing rough service. These are made with woolled the outside. From these formes the standard can be sheep skin upper with a belt fitted at the top of the prepared. foot. These boots are fitted with zip fastener and may Forme Cutting- The cutting of the forme on a flate be opened to the full length of the legs enabling easy surface. putting on and off of the boots in a minimum time. Foundry Boots- These are protective boots modified Folded Edge- The edge of a skived upper which has been turned over to give a neat finish. to serve the particular purpose. The principal variation in this boot is the fitting of toe easy exit Folding Skive - The skive done to facilitate folding fasteners instead of eyelets, thus enabling the boot to or turning-in of an edge of upper leather. This is made be taken off quickly in the event of accident while usually on twice the width to be folded, plus about handling molten metals. This footwear has also clog one millimetre to cover the thickness of the material. type wooden soles. Football .Boots - Boots made of thick leather, un- Foxing- A piece of leather forming the lower part of lined and are either machine sewn or rivetted. They the quarter of a boot and shoe. A rubber strip of 10 to have no heels and the soles are covered with leather 20 mm width placed around the bottom, over sole and studs arranged in various patterns on the soles and upper of a rubber boot/shoe or canvas boot/shoe for heels to give the wearer a firm grip on the ground. waterproofness and then vulcanized. It is a sort of reinforcement concealing the joint of the upper and Foot Form - A name for last or footwear made in sole. close conformity to the natural outline of the foot. Foxing Strip- An external cover strip used to protect Foot Hold- A low rubber over shoe having no heel the sole and sole edge of the upper. but adjusted by a light heel strap. Freak Last- A last, wide, almost straight across toe, Footwear - Any form of footwear made of various having the same width as at ball of foot. kinds of materials or combination of materials like leather, canvas, rubber, textiles, wood synthetics to French Binding- Treatment given to the edge of the protect the foot from cold, heat, thorns, hazards, uppers in certain cases, where a strip of binding material etc, and to serve as a costume in the form of sandal, is stitched to the upper grain to grain, very close to the shoe or boot. These shall include walking shoes, edge and then pulled up over the top of the upper and dress shoes, occasional footwear, sports footwear, down again on the other side of the upper, where it is 13 Is 2050 : 1991 sandwitched between the upper and lining, showing a methods, one of them being to fix a spring within the pipe of the binding material all along the edge. gap portion of the two parts which would break at the point where they are hinged to facilitate last slipping French Curves- Various model curves moulded in or forced lasting. sets in celluloid used to obtain satisfactory curves in drawing and deaigni~.of patterns. Gauged Edge - A type of gimp having a series of round wedge shaped pieces on the edge of the upper French Foot- Made with a single seam in the centre components. of the sole. Gauged Lift- A kind of seat lift, prepared by gaug- French Heel - A heel which is similar to Louis heel ing out an area in the centre of the lift and thereby made by wood covered with leather. reducing the centre of the breast of the lift. Frontier Pattern of Chaplis - This pattern of foot- Gemming Insoles - Reinforcing the insole of light wear was originally evolved bythe North West Fron- substance, unsuitable for welted work in a variety of tier Province (Pakistan) tribes as a sound, strong, ways with a special canvas either all over or over the cheap and hard-wearing footwear particularly suited channel lips of the insole. to the rigorous task involved in climbing rocks and hills. Geometric Forme - Forme produced by applying geometrical method. Fudge Edge - An edge stitched very close to the upper and trimmed closed. Geometric Grading- This is a method of grading of pattern in which geometrical principles are involved. Fudge Edge Work- A variation of McKay work. All details as to the manufacture of this shoe are Getting off- See ‘Benching’. similar to McKay shoe, the only difference is that in fudge edge work, a ‘middle’ has to be inserted be- Ghillie- Bqll type shoe with slotted front lace. Shoes tween the lasted upper and outer sole. ‘Ihe shoe made having a slashed over tongue covering the lace stay. by this method is often called a double-sole shoe. Gibson - A name given to Derby shoes for ladies Fudge Wheel - A rolling wheel is fixed in between with three big eyelets, but now-a-days four or five two clamps which will mark the impression on the eyelets are also used. edge of the soles as a decoration. Gimped Edge - A kind of edge treatment of upper Full Sock- A piece of leather or fabric pasted or done by punching the raw edge of the upper so as to kept on the insole of the shoe to cover any grindery form an angle or semi-circle. Gimping is sometimes and stitching inside the shoe. Sometimes full sock is done in the edge of sock lining of fancy shoes and also provided for better appearance. sandles. Full Sole- The whole cut sole used for costly foot- Girth - The distance round the foot, for example, at wear. the joints. Full Vamp - A vamp that extends forward full size Glue Paste- A cheap and effective adhesive used for and is lasted under instead of being cut off and sewed labelling and Louis heel attaching. Glue and gelatine to the tip on the under side. are both derived from the skins and bones of animals. Full Welt- Welt of full length, that is of such a length Golf Disks - Small rubber or metal inserts placed in to run all round the sole-edge. the bottom of golf boot or shoes to prevent slipping. G Golfers Foot - A temporary disorder with strain at outer side of leg. Gabardine - A closely woven fabric of particular boot or shoe surface value in wear and appearance. Golf Shoe- A kind of sport shoe with or without hob nails used by golf players. Gaiter - A separate ankle covering an over covering for the foot adjuster with buttons and attached with a Galosh- An over shoe or boot usually of rubber and buckle and strap. also with a type of vamp having its wings extended along either side. Gallon Binding- See ‘French Binding’. Goodyear Welted Construction- A very flexible Gaping Quartels - The quarter tops at the sides, at method of boot or shoe construction in which the times due to various resorts do not fit snugly to the last insole and the upper are sewn to the welt which in turn after lasting and eventually do not fit the foot causing is stitched to the sole. No seam is visible inside the inconvenience to the wearer. The reasons for this are boot or shoe. many but are mostly due to improper lasting. Gore Shoe - A shoe with elasticized side or front; Gap Spring Lasts - Wooden lasts are generally made in two separate blocks, namely, the forepart and Goring- A strong kind of rubberised fabric used in the back. These two sections are fixed in variety of style footwears.

14 IS 2050 : 1991 Grading Patterns - This is to produce patterns of Hammer Toe- The toe that is contracted or buckled differen; sixes and fittings, proportionately from a up in the middle which resembles a hammer in form model either by machine or by a hand tool. and is called a hammer toe. This is caused by wearing short or narrow shoe. Gruff Sole - A term referring to three quarter length sole, which may be either straight or curved graft. Hand Lasting- Lasting of footwear by hand method. Grecian Slipper - A slipper with a separate counter Hand Made Footwear- A name given to the process which can either be whole cut or in two pieces with a of hand made footwear of any construction,*generally plain vamp. applicable to welted method of construction. Grinderies (Metallic) - Metallic auxiliaries, such as Hand Tacks - These are used for insole tacking, eyelets; nails, tacks, rivets, heel tips, toe tips, screws, assembling, jointing, comer tacking and cobbling etc, used in footwear construction are grouped under operation done by hand method. These are not used in the name grinderies. machine. The tacks are produced by cut tack method with heads somewhat thicken than the machine cut Groove Channel- A type of open channel where an tacks and with a fine sharp point which enables the open groove in the shape of ‘U’ is cut in the sole at a user to push them far enough into the material by light uniform distance along the edge to allow the stitches finger pressure. to bed in it. This is generally done on hard or thick leather, rubber, plastic nitric or resin soles. Hand Welting- Attaching of welts with stitches by hand. Groover - A small cutting tool, used in making grooves on soles. Hassock Heel - Descriptively rounded heel. Gun Boots- These are knee high waterproof rub- Head of the Base - The upper end of a bone of the ber boots generally used in chemical factories to foot. protect the feet against injurious chemicals, and also Heel - The seat part of the footwear bottom some- against rain water. times attached separately and sometimes an integral part of the sole. It may be of leather, rubber, wood, Gun Spray- An item of kit resembling the shape of plastics (like PVC, polyurethane, etc), nitrile, ma- a revolver which enables the footwear upper finisher sonite board, particle board, etc, and may be of vari- to spray the dressing uniformly all over the footwear. ous types givenunder their non names, namely, Span- The gun operates under compressed air pressure, the ish, Louis, Wedge, etc. The heel tip/top lift is an pressure and the range of the spray can be adjusted to integral part of the heel. suit the requirement. Heel Attaching- Fixing the heel to the seat of the Gusset- A side piece or insert of rubber webbing in footwear permanently. the side of a congress shoe. Heel Ball - Fakes, prepared from wax with other Gypsy Seam - A seam running from throat , straight ingredients, used for polishing sole and heel edge and down the front of a boot or shoe to the toe, making a bottom of footwear. vamp. Heel Base - The part of the heel next to the sole H usually made concaved, to fit the seat of the sole. Half Bellows - A full length tongue attached to the Heel Bone - See ‘Base of Bone’. vamp and all the way up on both sides of the quarters. Heel Breast - The front edge of the heel facing Half Double Sole - An out sole composed of one towards the toe. full sole to heel with a slip sole above it. Heel Breasting- Removing the surplus material from Half Sock- A piece of leather or suitable material to the heel breast by cutting. cover the inner sole partly. This particular type covers the seat and waist but terminates at the joint. Heel Brace- A metal brace or frame to the outside of a footwear to keep the heel straight. Half Soles - Soles of half length, extended usually about 12 mm below the joint line, used by repairers. Heel Building - Process of attaching several lifts having a rand or skeleton lift at the base according to HPllux Regidus- This is a condition in which the big required thickness. Heels of inside attachment have toe joint is enlarged, and movement in it is very their top pieces attached by slugging wire or nails. limited or absent. The toe itself is not deflected from its normal position, as in hallux valgus. Heel Girth Measurement - The girth measurement around the tip of the back of the heel and the middle Hallux Valgus - Hallux valgus is a displacement or of the curve of the foot (where the leg joints with the buckling of the bones of the first metatarso-Phalangeal foot). joint with the great toe being displaced towards the other toes and the head of the first metatersal bone Heel Grip- A name given to a counterpiece of either being forced inward. This is also known as bunion. suede or sheep skin with flesh side out inserted at the 15 IS 2050,: 1991 back of the quarter where this serves as a counter Hob Cutter- Extra large sized cutters having sixteen lining and does not allow the foot to slip out of the cutting blades around the circumference creases and footwear while walking and due to its rough surface, are used for trimming low heel, like those of chil- holds back the sock from moving. dren’s footwear. These are also used by footwear repairers for their trilgmiag machines for cutting the Heel Heigbt- The thickness of the heel in relation to forepart where no creases are required like in new the toe spring. It is determined by the style of the last. footwear. The correct heel height is that which gives from 6 mm to 8 mm toe spring for normal walking shoes. Hob Nails - Nails similar to protector studs with heads of varying styles, like bullet, Victoria, pyramid, Heel Iron - A hand tool used for heel ironing. star and Irish used to reinforce soles and heels of Heel Ironing- See ‘Burnishing Heel’. heavy boots and shoes. Heel of the Footwear - Support placed under the Hockey Boot- A machine sewn boot., made of leather. quarter to ensure that the footwear lies correctly. The But usual kind of hockey boot is of canvas possibly seat part of the footwear bottom, sometimes attached with leather reinforcements and with a sole of moulded separately and sometimes as an integral part of the vulcanized flexible rubber, cleated and grooved to sole. It may be of leather, rubber, wood or any syn- provide a firm grip on the ground. thetic mateiial. They are of various types given under their own names, like Spanish, Louis, Wedge etc. Hoisting Method - An operation in hand lasting where the seat portion of the upper is raised about 15 Heel Pad - A pad of leather, felt, rag, etc, placed in mm from seat towards the counter point prior to the heel of the footwear inside and covering the insole taking the first pull at the toe. This helps in giving a at the point where the heel of the foot rests. tight top line to the footwear. Heel Lifts- Layers of material used for intermediate Hold Fast - A ridge formed at the insole edge all heel building. round or up to the heel breast to which the welt is Heel fins - Nails, grooved or spiralled specially for sewn. It is formed by cutting two channel with the attaching heels of boots and shoes. help.of an insole ranging knife and the difference between them is normally 4.75 mm. Heel Plate- Steel plate made to the size of the heel in U-shape having four to six nail holes for attaching Horn - The shoe horn used to facilitate slipping on it to the heel. low cut shoes. Heel Scouring - Shaping and smoothening out the Hot Blasting- Giving some form of heat treatment to edge or surface of the heel with abrasive. the leather upper to smooth out any wrinkles and to tighten up the grain surface of the leather. Heel Seat - The portion of the boot or shoe bottom where the heel is fitted. Horsing- Placing of upper on last in a proper position for lasting. Heel Shave - A tool just like a spoke shave with holding device and a blade in the middle. The blade Hot Melts- Thermoplastic adhesive of polyamide or may be flat or convex to fit the shape of the heel. polyester. Polyamide and polyester hot melts are generally used for lasting. Heel Sock- See ‘Seat Sock’. Heel Stay - A pasted lining placed in the heels of Hot Puffs - A type of puffs made of heavy woven Oxford or other low cut shoes to prevent the shoe cotton cloth impregnated with a molten mixture of from slipping at the heel. rosin and wax. It is hard in nature and requires soften- ing after its insertion by heat. Heel Tip- A reinforcement of metal, rubber or plastic fixed to the back outside edge of a heel top piece to Huarache Sandal - A hand braided leather sandal give increased wear resistance at this point during without a counter and with the upper laced to the sole. walking. Hunters Boots - See ‘Jungle Boots’. Heel Trimming - Removing the surplus material around the heel edge and to shape_ it. Hunting Boot - A laced boot made with belows tongue and blucher cut with water proof sole. Held Together Closing Upper- A system of closing of upper in which the machinist positions section to Hyperidrosis - Excessive sweating of the foot. section to the mark provided and stitches along while maintaining the fit by holding the sections firmly. I Himalayan Boots - See ‘Everest Boots’. Ice Creeper- A metallic device attached to a boot or shoe for use in ice water. Hinged Lasts - Lasts made in two parts, hinged together for easy insertion and withdrawal of it from Illusion Heel - A low tapering heel .which makes a the footwear. low healebshoe look-more elegant.

16 IS 2050 : 1991 Indirect Attachment (Sole) - A method of attach- Insole - a) A piece of leather or any other suitable ment in which both the units (insole and,sole) are. substitute material being an exact replica to the shape indepen$entlyrttached to a third part, the welt which of the bottom of the last to which the upper, sole, welt, comes between them. etc, are attached directly or indirectly. Indoor Turns - See ‘Turn Shoes’. b) The part of the soling on which the foot rests either directly or separated by a loose insole. 1~ IXW Slipper- Slipper for indoor use. Insole Blocking - The insoles of the hand welted Infant Sizes- A size range starting from size 0 in the footwear are generally blocked at the bottom of the English scale running up to size 6 which generally last to take out the extra stretch out of the leather prior covers the children up to the age of four. to the commencement of lasting. The operation con- sists of taking a rectangular piece of sole leather large Ingrown Nail - The curling in of the toe nails of the enough to cover the bottom of the last and mellowing human foot (mostly big toe), due to friction caused by the same. It is then placed and secured temporarily to wearing short tight fitting footwear and stockings. the bottom of the last with several rivets at important places. Iqjection Moulding - A method of construction in which PVC is injected to the sole cavity to form the Insole Channelling- See ‘ Channelling Insole’. sole of a footwear with an upper, or a process in which the footwear as such is moulded by injection. Insole of the Last - The bottom of the last is called the insole of the last. Iqjection Moulded Sole- A variation of the direct moulded sole, a process in which the footwear upper Insole of a Shoe - A component of the shoe bottom and insole assembly are placed in a mould with the resting at the bottom of the last which holds the upper desired shape of the out sole, the out sole material is and the sole firmly in position. This is also known as then formed by injection moulding into die. foundation of the shoe. Insole Slashing - Making the insole of machine- Inked Bottom - A name given to the operation of a sewn, cemented or other types of constructions, more particular type of bottom finishing. In this case a flexible. The operation consists of putting of a few quick drying black pigment is applied to the already buffed sole and is then polished on the machine or by rows of slashes across the forepart of the insole. These hand. slashes are hardly one millimetre deep. Insole Tack- A round parallel shank with a square Inner Longitudinal Arch- An arch extending length- pyramid point, used to tack insoles to lasts having wise of the foot from the inside bottom of the back metal plates. part of the oscalcis to the head of the first metatarsal, on the inside edge of the bottom of the foot. It acts as Instep- The front part of the arch of the foot. a shock absorber. Instep Girth Measure- The girth measurement of a Inseam- A seam in the welted footwear which holds last or foot taken at the middle of the waist through the welt with the upper and the inner sole. This seam the instep point. is the most important seam in a welted footwear and is not visible in the finished footwear. Instep Position of Foot - A point on the top of the foot just above the arch which is distinguished by its Inseam Trimming- Cutting of the surplus material bony prominence. (of upper and welt) above the seam produced by welt sewing. Innerlining- An additional lining, usually of cotton drill between the vamp lining and vamp of the foot- Inside Attachment of Heel- This is an operation, in wear to aid in preserving the shape during wear. which, the nails are driven through the insole and sole seat from inside to the heel. This method requires Interlaced - A sheet made by interlacing strips of withdrawal of last first. Then the nails are driven from leather or other material and used for making the inside of the footwear into the heel, complete with whole or part of an upper of footwear. slugged top piece. Interlining- A material used between the footwear Inside Foot Joint Position - In a normal foot it is at upper and the limting to increase softness and plump- five-seventh of the length of the foot measured from ness of the upper materials. the back, located at the inside of the foot where the first metatarsal bone meets the big toe. Internal Wedge- The wedge heel inserted and stuck in the finished footwear. The heel is then covered Inside Fonne- The copy of the inside area of last on with a soft rubber pad; this needs a special last having a flat surface. wood where the heel would normally fit.

Inside Joint of Last- A point located at two-third of Inverted Machine - A pulling over machine where the standard last length measured from the back at the the operator has a full view of the footwear while the .’ inside of the last. pulling over is done.

17 F

IS 2050 : 1991 Invisible Sole - When a half sole is spliced or bev- Kolhapurl Sandal Chappal- A footwear which is a elled to show no edge at point of union. traditional type of chappal made of vegetable tanned, undyed leather by the crafts man of Sanghli and Invisible Eyeletting- A method of setting eyelets Kolhapur districts of Maharashtra and Belgaum dis- in footwear upper, in which the eyelets are inserted trict of the Kamataka. The upper part of the sandal through from inside and clenched on the lining only chappal shall have the unlined perforated instep strap (or sometimes taking the reinforcement tape next to fitted with plaited laces (Beni) or zari laces and deco- lining). In the finished footwear all that is visible is a ratives such as leather studs (Goondy), buds (Mirchipan) small punched hole outside and the head of the eyelet and the like, and the toe strap and toe link (Mota rests on the lining inside. Beni). The bottom part shall have top sole, sole and Iron - A measurement for the thickness of leather. heel. Sole and top sole are pasted together by mud, One iron is equal to 0.53 mm approximately. putting old canvas inside to fill the gap and stitched together with leather thongs. The instep strap is fitted Ironing Out - A finishing process of footwears by in between the car (kan) on the top sole and its lining electrically heated iron. at waists by means of chain stitch with leather thong or the instep strap is fitted directly between in-sole Ironing, Upper- See ‘Hot Blasting’. and top sole at waists. J Knock-on-Louis - This is also termed as ‘Mock- Jackboot - A heavy all leather boot with crimped Louis’. The width of the breast line of the heel and front. shape of the seat are carefully located to the size of the heel to the attached, chopped away at either side, Janklng- A process for separating stitches on sole and fitted clean to the width of the heel. The vertical by a metal wheel, known as jank wheel. This is seam must secure the sole at the heel comers firmly so applied on stitched-in groove or stitched-aloft work. that they fit snugly. This mode of working is chiefly carried out from the point of utility and appearance on Jank Wheel - A metal tool used for janking. the preparation and attachments of the sole, the chan- Jigger- A tool used to beat the feather line of lasted nelling and sewing. footwear to get a clear feather line. The tool is fitted Korean Boot- These boots were designed for the war to the pounding machine inthe case of machine-made in Korea to withstand the extreme cold-wet climates footwear. of the country. These are knee-high all rubber boots Jockey Boot- Closed front, knee high boots with no constructed on the vapour-barrier principle of built-in fold-over at the top. A high straight top boot for insulation to provide protection against cold and children usually with cuff or collar of different leather. moisture. Jodhpur Boots- A type of boot in which the quarters L cover the ankles. The quarter is kept secured by a sharp buckling behind the ankle not more than three Lace Stay- A strip of leather applied on the front of eyelets. This is also known as CHUKKA boots. a laced boot or shoe to strengthen and reinforce the eyelets or eyelet holes. Joint Girth Measurement - See ‘Ball Girth Measurement’. Lace Hook- Small hooks inserted like eyelets into Joint Line - See ‘Ball Line’. boot/shoe facings to hold the lace for fastening. Juliet - A boundoir or house slipper for women, Lacing Hook- A tool used to lace the eyelet holes loose fitting and with high front and back having quickly. goring at the sides. Laminated Leather Board - See ‘Leather Layer Jungle Boots - These are ankel high rubber soled Board’. boots made of waterproof canvas upper, intended for use in muddy/slushy terrains of tropical jungles. They Lnpstone - An iron plate which the cobbler holds in were originally designed for the war in Burma and his lap and upon which he beats soles in order to give were intended also as a protection against leaches. them a counted shape or on which he pounds down seams or folded edges with flat faced hammer. K Lap Iron- A small slab of iron approximately of the Kabuli Sandal - A modified type of frontier same shape as a half sole, held in the workers’ lap to CHAPLIS with one or two vamp pieces. It may be of serve as a kind of anvil on which the leather can be open or closed toe type with a back strap for fastening hammered. the foot. Lapped Seam - A seam produced by laying one part Kapsi- Traditional type of chappal made of vege- over another and stitching together. table tanned undyed or stained leather by the crafts man of Sanghli, Kolhapur and Bengaum districts. Larrigan- A knee-high leg moccasion or boot made with moccasin sole having wedge heeled sole on the Keg Heel - Heel with rounded breast and back. out side and used by lumber man in the snow. 18 IS 2050 : 1991 Last - The wooden or metal or synthetic former Levelllng of Sole - After the operation of channel mould over which the footwear is constructed which closing on the stitched soles the forepart and the waist gives the footwear, its shape in accordance with the of the sole is smoothened to the shape of the last and volume of the foot. The last is reproduction of the levelled with the help of either levelling feet roller approximate shape of human foot. under pressure or with a wooden sleeking stick to improve the appearance of the bottom. Last Girth Scale - The amount of increase and de- crease in girth measurement of a last in relation to its Lifts- Pieces of leather or any other suitable material increase and decrease in sizes and fittings. cut in the shape of the heel from which the heel is built. Lasting- Moulding the upper to the exact shape of the last by a series of pulls and to attach it to the insole Ligaments - Strong tough fibrous bands which ex- by thread, tacks or staples or cement permanently. tend between the bones and hold the one hundred thirty seven joints of the foot in a firm position. Lasting Allowance - The allowance provided at the free edge of the upper to enable the uppers to be lasted Llght Weight Veldtscboen- This is a combination of properly* European veldtschoen and welt stitches down, a combination which flat lasts the inner upper and lasts Lasting Jack- An iron stand fitted with a last peg on the outer upper outward. It is therefore, a flat lasted which the last with the upper is placed during lasting. stitch down combination. Lasting Pincers- A hand tool, more or less like a pair Linen Thread- The thread obtained from the bast of of pliers generally used by the shoe-maker with the flax (linum) plant. The thread is very strong, reasona- difference that this has curved jaws and the inner bly elastic, rot-proof and smooth. It is used mainly for surface of this is cut with deep serrations so that this bottom stitching. might grip the material tightly. This also has a ham- mer head just behind the jaw which is used for tacking Lln~ of Tightness- It denotes the direction in which and other operations. the leather is tighter. A leather is usually more tight in the direction of its length. Lasting Tacks - Tacks made of mild steel used for lasting of footwear. Lining- The inside material used under the upper. These are generally cut to the same shape of upper, Last Slipping - Removing the last from the finished giving certain allowances. These are named after the or ready footwear. components, for example, vamp lining, tongue lining and quarter lining. Vamp linings are generally taken Latex Cement - Adhesives or cements produced by mixing latex with chemicals to prevent putrefaction out of fabric whereas the others from the tanned goat, and to increase bonding power of the latex. They are sheep or calf skins or splits. used in footwear industry for different types of adhe- Littleway Construction- A method of construction sions. similar to machine-sewn method. The only difference is that no lasting tacks are used. Lasting is done by Lay Out - An arrangement of different components of leather or fabric in a systematic manner to mini- littleway staples driven in with the points curving inwards leaving the inside of the insole free from any mize wastes. marks of grindery. The stitch is a lock-stitch instead Leather Boards - Boards made out of scrap leather of a chain-stitch. pulp and some binder mixed together and then pressed into sheets of varying thicknesses, that are generally Lock-Stitch - A Stich made by two threads, a top thread and a bottom thread, to form a knot in the used for insoles and stiffeners. middle of the material to be stitched. Leather Layer Boards - Boards made out of thin Lock-Stitch Through Sewn Welt Construction- A splits of leather cemented together and processed with variation of wel.ted construction used for producing gums, resins, rubber solution, glue, etc. They are used cheaper grade footwear. In this method, the upper is for insoles and stiffeners of footwear. lasted with littleway staples to the insoles. Then a lock-stitch seam unites the insole, upper and the welt. Leg Boot - A boot which extends some distance Finally, the sole is attached by look-stitch with the above the ankle, without lacing. welt. Legging - A straped or laced covering for the leg Loose Insole- Piece of skin, fabric or any thin matc- extending from the ankle to the knee. A puttee leg- rial, cut to the shape of the insole and stuck to this ging is formed from a spirally wrapped strip of cloth. to give a better appearance to the footwear. If this only covers the rear section of the insole, it is called Leisure Shoes - Shoes of simple style and comfort, intended wear. a heel piece of half-insole. Loose Lined Closing- See ‘Closing on the Round Len@h Scale - A method of specifying standard Method’. length of feet or lasts generally adopted in the foot- wear trade. There are various methods like English, Louis Heel- A slender type of heel with curved back American, Paris Points, etc. line and with a lip extending partly under the, shank of

IS 2050 : 1991 footwear, resulting in a curved breast which is cov- the fixed upright stick. Then the sliding stick is moved ered by a thin layer of sole leather during footwear to touch the big toe and the roading is taken from the making process. Range in height is from 50 to 75 mm. stick. Louis Sole- Full sole, the heel end of which is split Medallion- The perforated pattern punched onto the into two layers one of which, after tounging goes into tip of men’s and women’s oxford shoe. the cup of the heel and the outer layer goes up over the brease. Metal Bound Patterns - Cardboard upper compo- nent patterns are bound along the edges with brass or Low Cut- Varieties like slipper pump, oxford, san- steel strips for durability and better cutting. Machines dal, step in, colonial, etc, know as low cut. are used for binding the 5 mm wide strips which are at first formed into U-shape to enable them to fit the M edge of the pattern. Machine-Sewn Method of Construction - See Metal Last- A last made of metal, such as iron or ‘Blake-Sown Method of Construction’. aluminium, generally used for rivetted construction of footwear. Maid’s Size- A range of sizes which are meant for teenaged girls. The range is from size two to five. Metullic Channelling - A special type of chan- nelling where a horizontal cut, parallel to the surface Making- A term used to describe lasting and other of footwear, is made. It is shallow and flat and facili- associated process. tates hiding of the screws or wide rivet heads. Making Lasts- Lasts on which footwear is usually Metallic Threads - These are either gold or silver made. coated wire or those made by rolling metal wires into fine filaments which are incorporated with other types Making Operations - Footwear manufacturing op- of yarns in fabrics or braids. erations from lasting onwards where the various bot- toming operations are carried out. Metatarsal Arch - See ‘Anterior Arch’. Making Room - Alternate name given to the con- Metatarsal Bones - Long shaft like bones of the struction department in certain sections of the foot- human foot, which function as levers or propellers in wear trade. pushing the body weight forward as the foot rolls on the ball. They are five in number and are located Male Slippers - Slippers generally used for indoor between the tarsus and the phalanges group. wear having only a vamp and sole and with or without Micro-Cellular Rubber Soles - A sponge rubber heel. sole in which the pores are extremely small. It is made Maple Wood- Acer Saccharimum L., Fam Aceraceac: from resin rubbers by incorporating a blowing agent a white wood with fine grain of close texture.; when which at the temperature of vulcanization decom- finished, it has silky appearance. This wood is used poses and so produces the sponge effect. This has for making lasts due to its suitable qualities and cheap- cushioning effect and is hardwearing. ness. Micro Tacks - Tacks used for lasting footwear hav- March Foot - A painful swelling of the forepart of ing light uppers and insoled. These are made with the foot. their heads smaller in diameter and with very sharp fine points. When clenched no marks are visible on Marking - The printing or stamping of sizes and the insoles. other details on the linmng of the footwear. Military Heel- Straighter than cuban heel and not Mark Up- The term for difference between cost and so high. selling price of a footwear. Midsoles - Soles cut to the shape of the outsoles and McKay Sewn Construction - A type of footwear used between the outsoles and insoles to increase the construction in which the upper is tack stapled or thickness of the soles. cemented lasted and the outsole is attached by a chain - stitched seam. The stitches are concealed by a chan- Miners’ Boots - An ankle high boot similar to ;:rmy nel in the out sole and passed through the out sole, boot with six or seven eyelets, having soles either insole, lining and upper. of rubber or leather. Steel toe-cap is fitted externally or internally to protect the toes from injury (see Meanforme - The average forme made by dividing Annex B). the difference between the inside and outside forme. Mdassin - Originally invented by natives of North Measuring Stick - A wooden or plastic stick in- America. The original moccasin was made of a very scribed with English sizes on one side and inches on soft leather and was a close fitting footwear with the the other with two upright sticks about 50 mm high on upper and sole of one piece gathered into a circular both the ends of the stick one and fixed the other vamp at the top. It was then brought to Europe and has sliding. This stick is used for measuring foot sizes, the been since adopted in the modem worlh with various foot being placed on the stick with the heel touching modifications.

20 IS 2050 : 1991 Moccasin Shoes - Shoes having inserted circular Munson- A shoe designed by Munson after an tongue attached to one piece.vamp (basic type). The intensive study of feet and shoes. vampe+nds under the foot andits upper edges are attached. to the apron covering the top of the foot. Micrometer- A dial gauge with calibration in mil- There is, therefore, no insole. limetres and fractions thereof used to measure the thickness of leather and its cut components. Mock Welt - A single sole footwear construction having a strip of leather stitched around the leather Mount Batten- One piece rubber sole and heel unit edge of the upper with the sole to give it an appear- designed by Lord Mountbatten for millitary use. Heel ance of welted footwear. height is 34 mm and sole edge is 10 mm thick. Mock-Welt Construction - See ‘Machine-Sewn N Construction’. Nailed Process- A method of construction of men’s Mogul- A large footwear eyelet. heavy work shoes in which the upper is lasted to the insole with tacks that clench against the metal bottom Monk Shoe - Shoe of three pieces of upper with a of the last. The insole and outsole, previously stitched side buckle. This is one of the basic shoe designs. See together, are further reinforced by nails. also ‘Alpine Shoes’. Napoleon Boot - A leg boot designed by Napoleon, Motor Cycle Boots - Calf high boots worn while originally used for soldiers having a high wave top. riding motor cycles. The waist of the sole is rein- forced with a metal plate. Napoleon Top Sole - An extra sole so bevalled in from the edge as to be invisible from above. Moulded Constructio\- See ‘Direct Moulded Con- struction’. Nature Form Shoe - A shoe which is made on a special last having its inside fotepart particularly straight Moulding’ Soles - Shaping the soles in mellow and with a wide joint. This shoe gives a look nearing condition, so as to conform to the bottom of the the true shape of the foot. footwear. Needle Eye - This is the hole at the thin end of the Mukluk- Footwear for dry and cold climates. Muk- needle through which the thread passes before form- luk leather is usually made from deer, elk, and similar ing a loop. skins; but during World War II kips were also used. It is tanned in white with formaldehyde, alum, or syn- Needle Grooves - Each sewing needle has two tans. It is very permeable to water vapour and retains grooves on the shank, namely, the long groove and its flexibility at low temperatures. the short groove. The object of this long groove is to bury the thread within its long groove while the Mules- High heel slipper with no counter or quarter. needle is piercing the material, reducing undue fric- This is one of the basic footwear designs. tion on the thread. The short groove is generally on the otherside of the long groove in the vicinity of the Mulling - Mulling is to bring the upper in such a needle eye and plays an important role in the forma- condition artificially that it will last easily and will tion of the loop. not break, by using heat in addition to moisture. Needle Point - The function of the needle point is to Multi Laces Sandal- Traditional type of chappal puncture and pierce through the material and make a made of vegetable tanned undyed or stained leather way for the thread to pass through and form a loop. by the craftsmen of Sangli, Kolhapur and Belgaum The points on the needles, therefore, vary to meet the districts. It is known as ‘Gooma Beni Chappal’. requirements of different materials. The main type of points are round point suitable for fabric, narrow Multi-Fittings - A modification in orthodox fitting wedge point suitable for thin and medium leather, scale. This method involves 10 to 11 different fittings, reverse spear point or cross point suitable for work ranging from 4A to 4E. In this method the orthodox where protected seams are required. grade of 6.4 mm for fittings and 8.5* mm for sizes is retained for the middle sizes (C.D.E.) but’for larger Needle Size- Needles used in sewing machines are and smaller sizes the length increases and decreases generally available in various sizes which generally by 1 mm and the girth by 4.7 mm. run to about 30. The sizes which are generally used in the footwear industry are from 12 to 22 depending Munda Shoes - This is pump type, heavy duty foot- upon the type of material to be stitched. wear made of unlined zug grain or russet leather generally galloon bound and with heel tip and toe tip Neoprene Soles - The soles of footwear made from at the bottom. This type of shoe is generally used by polychloroprene rubber which resembles natural forest guards and constables. This is made by riveted rubber. and welted method. Net Pattern - A pattern having no allowance. l Rationalized metric conversion value of one-third inch to Neumkeag- A circular disk slightly dome-shaped millimetres. and covered with abrasive paper mounted at the end

21 Is 2050 : 1991 of a revolving spindle generally fixed to the finishing Oscillating Edge Setter- A machine used for sole machines. edge setting in the finishing operation having an oscillating setter which moves backward and forward. Nippers - Long necked pliers used to cut nails or pegs lasting tacks, etc, from the inside of the foot- Outer Longitudinal Arch - An arch extending wear. One handle of the nipper has a slit to remove lengthwise of the foot from the outside edge of the loose nail. bottom of the oscalcis to the head of the fifth metatarsal and located on the outside edge of the Norvic - A device to measure the size and fittings of bottom of the foot. women’s foot. Outside Heel Attachment - A method of attaching Norwegian- A slipper type of stepin for men, women heels to the lasted footwear. In this method the nails and children usually having moccasin effect on vamp for attaching heels are driven fromoutside going from with wide band across the waist of the foot. heel to the insole. Notch- V-shape cut provided in the underlay and cut Outside Foot Joint or Ball Position- A joint located parts of upper components to facilitate lasting as well at the outside of the foot below the inside foot joint at as identification. a distance of approximately one-tenth of the foot- Nullifier- A shoe with high vamp and quarter drop- length. ping low at the side and having a ‘U’ shaped rubber Outside Forme - The copy of the outside area of a goring inserted for housewear. last on a flat surface. Nurses Shoe- Comfortable, medium or low heeled Outsides- An alternate term for the upper cut com- white shoes. ponents excluding the lining. 0 Outsole - The bottom component of the sole of the footwear which comes in direct contact with the ground Oblique Trimming Lining- Cutting the lining at an while walking or with the heel. angle less than 90 degrees. Over Boots - See ‘Over Shoes’. Occupational Footwear - Footwear used by men engaged in performing their day-to-day jobs. Differ- Over Gaiter- A cloth anklet extending down over ent types of footwear are for different types of work, the footwear to the vamp. as army boots, officers’ boots and shoes, miners’ boots, police boots and factory workers’ boots and Over Shoes - Type of loose shoes which are gener- shoes. ally worn over the shoes to protect the expensive footwear during outdoor use. These are made mostly Offals- Portions trimmed from hides including head, out of rubber but at times of fabric and other fancy shoulders, belly, butt and tail. materials also. One-Bar Shoes- A bar shoe having one bar in front Oxford Shoes- An open throat lace shoe with three of the ankle for fastening. or more eyelets. A low cut shoe having any form of vamp, first used in Oxford 300 years ago. Opaque Flnished Bottom - Bottom finished with pigments in order to cover up any defect. P Open Heel - No counter or material at heel other Pat - It is a combination type of footwear with than a sling of leather or material to heel of the rubber sole and leather upper extended up to a height footwear. between ankle and knee. It is suitable for rough use and generally used by the hunters, lumberers, etc. OpenShank-A style in faminine footweas whet&t the bridge of the shank is open - the upper being cut Paddling- Flexible elements situated at various points away to reveal the arch of the foot. intended to protect the user against impact or improve the level of comfort. Open-Stick Assembly - See ‘Dry-Stick Assembly’. Painted Bottom - A term given to a particular type Open Stitched Seam - See ‘Closed Seam’. of bottom finishing which is carried out with a suit- able pigment finish which has a good covering power. Open Toe - A tipless shoe with opening shaped and The finish is generally used for cheaper grades of bound or stitched to reveal toe or toes. footwear where inferior quality soles are used. Opera Slipper- Dress slipper for women. Painted on Plastic Puff- A hardening liquid painted on the reverse side of the leather (upper) to stiffen it, Ornamentation of Upper of Shoe - Producing a instead of using toe puff. Its popularity is for the fancy effect on the body of the shoe uppers by punch- unlined footwear. ing, stitching or other means. Panel Trimming - In ladies’ footwear where some Orthopaedic Footwear- See ‘Corrective Footwear’. fancy designs have been provided for, they have to be

22 IS 2050 : 1991 closed with full lining to avoid any distortion of the PerforaJing: Ornamenting of the uppers by means designing effect on lasting. These linings are trimmed of series of holes of various shapes and sizes. on a special machine known as panel trimmer having an oscillating knife. This is performed at the finishing Perforating Upper - An operation used for stage. ornamenting footwear uppers by means of series of holes of varying $&apes. This gives a pleasant Panning Up- Hammering down the edges of leath- appearance to the upper. ers in the heel during hand finishing with the wedge shaped end of the hammer to close them thoroughly Permeability to Air and Water Vapour- The abil- and make the heel solid. ity of the footwear material to pass air and water through its pores, essential from the point of view of Parrallel Row Stitcher or Twin Needle foot health. Machine - A type of sewing machine having two needles which make two parallel rows of stitches. The Piece Soles- Small pieces of sole leather joined with machine may have a flat bed or a post bed and the three-quarter soles to make full length soles. A three space between the needles is variable. Parallel row quarter sole, when the sole piece is united it becomes stitcher may also make four rows of stitches. in effect a full sole. The seat piece is cut from com- paritively inferior material. Parallel Rule - This is a tool for hand grading of patterns. It consists of two parrallel graduated scales Pimple Markers - A type of design marker which joined b; two metal strips at two different points. employs a zinc pattern of the particular component to be marked on which the design has been raised in a Paring Heel- Removing the surplus materials around series of closely spaced pimples. the heel edge with the aid of a knife. This is also known as ‘Heel Trimming’. Piped Seam - A seam produced in the same way as the welted seam. The only difference is that instead of Paris Bin$ng- See ‘French Binding’. a single piece of material a prepared folded piping is inserted between the two outside sections in such a Paris Point - The size unit used in the Continent is way that the folded edge is in extact Position relative the Paris Point. The size scale begins at 0 cm and to the seam. continues without a break up to the largest size with an increase of 6.7 mm Per size normally; the girth Pitch- The correct heel height arrived at by elevating scale is 5 mm between sizes and 1.7 mm across the the seat end of the last from a horizontal surface so tread. that the last is standing on its tread line. In general practice, is that higher the pitch, wider and shorter is Pattern - Sheets of metals or paper boards or any the forepart and narrower the waist and the seat. synthetic material shaped to the outline to which the upper/bottom components are cut. Pitch of Last- Pitch of last is defined as the distance between the horizontal surface and the seat of the last Pattern Allowance - Allowances generally kept in where the seat is raised from a horizontal surface to its patterns of upper and bottom of footwear to meet correct height so that the last is standing at its tread various requirements. line. Pattern Area - The actual area covered by the pat- Piping- A strip of leather, fabric or plastic, folded terns. over itself, stuck and then inserted between two pieces being stitched together. Pattern Cutter- After the designing of a particular design of a footwear the sectional and lining patterns Plain Edge Sole- A narrow, closely hugging edge in are cut, graded and made by a person known in the the footwear. trade as ‘pattern cutter’. Plastic Lasts - Lasts made of synthetic high poly- mers. They do not deform due to adverse climatic Pattern Grading - Reducing or increasing the pat- conditions. terns proportionately to suit ever size from a standard pattern. This can either be done by hand or machine. Plated Lasts - Lasts having metal plate at the .oortom.. . Peep Toe- Same as ‘Open Toe’. Platform in Shoe - The piece of material used i n Peep-Toe Shoes - A type of shoe having a small shoes between the soles and the insoles is known as opening which reveals the toes. Usually ladies shoes platform. These are usually hard felt, cork (natural or and sandals are made in this way. processed), hard sponge rubber and rubberized cork. The object is to increase the thickness of the soles. Peg- Made of wood or fibre; has neither head nor bur. The gripping action is made by the roughness of Plug- Apron front of a moccasin shoe. the sides of the pegs used for attaching sole. Pneumatic Feet - Pneumatic feet are forms made Pegged Method of Con&&on - A method of out of moulded shell-rubber representing different construction in which the sole is attached by pegs last shapes. Footwear are given treatment to regain instead of rivets, screws, thread or cement. shape at the time of finishing which is known as 23 P

Is20!50:1991 treeing. This operation may be done by inserting Proportional Compass - A type of compass having forms to replace the lasts in the footwear .and the two long and’short legs with an adjustable nut gener- subsequent operations are then performed. The pneu- ally used for up grading or down grading of patterns. matic feet are generally slightly smaller in size. It is inserted in the footwear and inflated supporting the Protective Toe-cap - Strong shell, incorporated upper which helps the footwear to regain its original during manufacture in the toe of the footwear, gener- shape. ally between the upper and its lining, in order to protect the toes from danger of crushing. Pointed Toe - Pointed shape of the toe portion of the footwear or the last. Protector Studs - Round shank nails having a large diameter flat head, patterned with serrations. These Polyamides- A polymer used for the manufacture of are used in a sole immediately behind a toe plate or in promeric uppers, toe puffs and adhesives. a heel inside the heel plate. The head remains on top and the stud is driven into the sole or heel. Polyesters - A polymer used for the manufacture of promeric uppers and adhesives. Pulling Over - Initial moulding of footwear upper on lasts by 3 to 5 tacks to the insole by mechanical Polychbroprene Cement - Adhesive prepared by means, prior to final lasting. neoprene with magnesium oxide, anti oxidant zinc and oxide dissolved in solvent toluene. Pump- A low cut slipper. Polyethylene - Low density polyethylene used for Pump Edge Finish of Shoe - For pump edge finish the manufacture of insoles and toe puffs and high the sole is trimmed very close to the feather of the density polyethylene used for the manufacture of last, that is, there is very little margin in the sole footwear lasts. beyond the feather of the last. Polypropylene- A polymer used for the manufacture Punching- The operation of making holes in upper of heels and promeric uppers. components, either as decorative perforations or for eyeletting. Polystyrene- A polymer used for the manufacture of heels, toe puffs, stiffeners, etc. Putting into Colour- Dyeing or inking the edge of the sole and heel after they have been properly trimmed Polyurethane - A polymer used for the manufacture and scoured. of soles, foam lining, heel, top piece, promeric uppers and adhesives. PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) - A polymer used for the manufacture of upper, lining, sole and heel. It is a Polyurethane Cement - Adhesive prepared by syn- thermoplastic compound which has outstanding resis- thetic elastomer in methyl ethyl ketone. tance to water, alcohol acids and alkalies. Pounding- Flattening the creases which occur dur- PVC Moulded Soles- Soles of footwear from poly- ing lasting of uppers and also bringing out a clean vinyl chloride previously moulded or shaped to fit the feather edge with the help of pounding machine. contour of the lasted footwear bottom correctly with- out having to be forced in shape. Precision Grade- A modification of size and fitting scale to overcome the difficulty of shoe-fitting. The PVC Soles- Synthetic soling materials made of poly- grading of lasts by this scale is made as follows: vinyl chloride. Pyroxylin Cement - Pyroxylin cement has nitro- Length increase between sizes 8.5 mm cellulose as its base. The cement is mainly used for Joint girth increase between sizes 3.8 mm attaching leather sole, Louis heel, breast flaps, stick- ing cellulose puffs and counters and cement lasting Joint girth increase between fittings 8.9 mm with upright tacks. Prefinish Sole - Sole which is finished by trimming, etc, before it is attached with the footwear. Q Quartels - The sections of the upper which cover Prelasted Upper- A upper with insole and with or the heel and connect vamp of the footwear. It is without shank which has been put on a last and then sometimes joined at the back by a back strip. the last is taken out. Quarter Lining- The materials used as linings of the Prick Holes - Holes or marks produced by a sharp quarters of footwear. pointed awl into the leather or fabric wherever desired to facilitate the operation of upper closing. Quarter Reforming - An operation by which quarter tops of footwear are given a final shape atthe Pricking Awl - A hand tool of steel having a sharp finishing stage. The operation consists of shrinking point at one end and a small round handle at the and pressing the top edge ofthe quarter lining under’ other end. The overall length of this is generally 100 the top edge of the upper, turning or lslling inwards to 125 mm. See also ‘Awl’. the top edge of the shoe along the lining and finally 24 IS 2050 : 1991 ironing or shrinking out any fullness in material,. footwear the last has to be slipped off prior to the sole under thermostatic control. stitching and then slipper back, that is, relasted, to enable the remaining operations to be completed. Quarter Tip - A piece of rubber or metal in semi- circular shape which is attached to the built heel at the Relative Quality - A term generally used in the back of centre towards the outside where maximum clicking department where the quality of leather from pressure and strain is exerted while walking. portion to portion is defined in terms of relative quality. R Relative Substance - A term generally used in Race Way- A small column with a groove for either clicking department to describe the thickness of the eyelets or tacks to pass through in a continuous stream leather from portion to portion of the same side or in single column with its head upwards. The eyelets or skin. the tacks are fed in a metal container at the top of this Resin Rubber Soles - Footwear sole made of syn- metal race way and with the help of a revolving brush, thetic rubber. These are made almost in the same these are swept into the race way. Such race ways are manner as that of vulcanized natural rubber soles the quite common in the automatic eyeletting machine, difference being in the nature of some ingredients. Cons01 lasting machine, toe and heel seat lasting They look like leather soles. They are hard wearing, machine, etc. easily processed and readily stuck on, but they have a Radial Tool - A tool used for hand grading. It is a tendency to spread in wear. They are completely right angled triangle with a height equal to the length impermeable and it is difficult to finish them. of the pattern and base of 8.5 mm. In order to avoid Restricted Grading - Certain components in the moving the triangle for each size to be graded, it is upper may not need the increase or decrease for usual to mark on the base as many marks, each 8.5 different sizes due to the reason that alternatively it mm apart, as the number of sizes required. may look ugly or may bring in some difficulty, for Rambi-; An tempered steel chisel, sharpened at the example, one bar shoe if the bar width is not re- edge to skive off rough or loose portion or unwanted stricted, different sizes of buckles would be needed portion from leather. for different sizes of shoes. Rand - A piece of leather curved in the shape of a Ribbed Insoles - Insoles (usually of lighter sub- horse shoe and fitting around the top of the heel. The stance and not suitable for welted work) prepared for inner edges are shaved thin and this hollow helps to welted work by attaching preformed fabric ribs to the form a rounded heel seat. edge of the insoles with cement in a variety of ways. The welt is sewn to the rib. Randed Sole- An extension edge sole randed on the Rib Knife - A knife used in press clicking method edge for stouter appearance. having ribs at the sides. This reduces the probability Rand Lii- A narrow strip of leather skived at the of the knife slipping from the hand and saves the inner edge used at the seat for coupling. finger being cut off. Ranging- Cutting a large piece of hide into small Riding Root - Generally a knee high boot. The suitable pieces. Jodhpur type is a short boot just extending above the ankle with securing strap buckling behind the ankle. Rasp - A rough file used in smoothing out the heel Both are welted for flexibility, but they need not be and soles of footwear in hand method. . heavy, because soles are not subjected to much wear. Respstick- A flat stick having two sides pasted with Riding Root Last - This last is straight at the back rough and fine emery and another fitted up with pads and has pronounced thickening at the instep. The toe and covered with a strip of leather flesh side out. This spring is very little. is used by the upper clickers to sharpen and keep their Right and Left Patterns - Component patterns knives in sharp condition for trimming. which are cut to. fit the two odd lasts individually. Raw Eyelets - Eyelets which are mearely holes This gives a better fit of the upper on the last, a greater through the lace stay, without the visible annular economy and also increases the wearer’s comfort. metal ring. Rise - The difference between the joint and instep Recede - Term applies to toes of shoes or last girth measurement. which are drawn sharply towards the toe, so that the River Driving Shoes - Shoes for lumberman with top of the toe ‘recedes’ and is comparitively narrow sharp spiked soles. and pointed rather than blunt in outline. Riser of the Heel - Rectilinear or lesser concave Red Flint - A kind of abrasive used in the footwear curving towards the front section of the footwear. trade for scouring. Riveted Construction - A method of footwear con- Relasting- putting the last again after havingper- struction in which the sole is secured to the upper and formed certain operations, for example, in single sole insole with rivets instead of thread, screws or pegs.

25 IS 2050 : 1991 Rivets- Grinderies made of brass or steel wire, hav- S ing flat round head with spear shape points and paral- lel shank. Sabot - A wooden shoe carved in one piece from a block of wood. It is largely used as an electrical safety Roman Sandal - A sandal with the front composed shoe. entirely of straps from the throat of the vamp to the top. Saddle Seam- A seam made by stitching through the Rolling - An operation intended for levelling the pieces being laid so that the edges are even, instead of substance by pressing down the high spots and also to being lapped. solidify the fibres and increase its resistance to abra- Safety Roots - See “Miner’s Boots”. sive wear, equivalent for hammering the leather. The components requiring this effect are passed through Safety Footwear- Work footwear with special con- two rollers moving in the same direction, pressure of structions to safeguards the feet ankles from injury which can be regulated as desired. namely fitted with metal toe cap. Romeo Slipper - A men’s slipper of felt with high Safety Shoe- Shoe with a high or low upper, which backed quarter and high front and slashed low at the shall always have a protective metal toe-cap and may side. have various reinforcements such as an elastic layer Rope Sole- Hemp or fibre braids coiled in the shape between the upper and the lining, penetration resistant sole, non-slip soling, etc, and shall be intended to of a sale, fastened together with thread or adhesive. protect the foot against the risk of accident by crush- Rope Stitched - Having a heavy corded stitching as ing, impact, possible penetration, falling, etc (see in the edges of soles or elsewhere chiefly for oma- Annex B). mental effect. Sample Size - ‘It is customary in footwear trade to Roughing Soles - Opening the fibres of the compo- reckon one particular size as sample size in each size nents to be cemented for attaching with help of wire range to facilitate arui standardize in working, for brush for better penetration of cement. example, for gents’ size 7, for ladies’ size 4, and for boys’ and girls’ size 13, and so on. Rough Rounding - Shearing of any surplus sole material round the edges prior to the sole stitching Sailor Tie - A name commonly applied to a two operation. This operation can be done on machine eyelet low cut shoe tied with ribbon lace. also which are known as rough rounding machines after the name of the operation. Sandal - An open type of footwear having an upper part not oovering the entire foot. The upper part of Rough Stock- See ‘Bottom Stock’. sandal consists of one or more components such as Round Point Needles - A needle which is not to be strap, vamp and the like and the same are aligned and recommended for leather working. It is mainly de- assembled together by various methods. The bottom signed for stitching fabrics. It penetrates the leather part of the sandal consists of a number of components and enlarges the hole without cutting it. While sewing such as insole, sole, heel and the like and the same are aligned and assembled together by various methods. fabrics it does not cut the fibres but’penetrates into them by pushing apart. The assembled upper part shall be attached to the assembled bottom part by various methods. Rounding Soles, Insoles and Heels - Giving the components their exact shape by cutting off the sur- Scoring Insoles- This is to provide a prominent mark plus material around by knife. on the insole, at a distance of about one-fourth of the length of the insole from the heel end. It serves as a Rugby Roots - Boots similar in design to football guide for welt sewer to commence and finish welt boot but their construction is by machine-sewn method. sewing accurately. Runner- A section included in a bottom of footwear Scotch Edge - A wide extension edge either welt or assembly to give added thickness sometimes with a imitation. covered or decorated edge. Screw Fastened - Having the sole attached to the Running In - The stitching together of the upper upper with screw nails as in industrial or heavy work and lining at the quarter top edge. Both of them indi- footwears. vidually completed comprise the ‘running in’ opera- tion. Stuffer - A light slipper. Running Shoes - Shoes without heel made on turn Scouring Soles and Heels- Giving a smooth surface shoes construction having a very thin flexible sole and to footwear bottom and heel edge with the help of a few spikes at the forepart to enable the rumter to various kinds of abrasives. have a better grip on the ground. Screwed and Stitched Con&uction - Same as the Russian Boot - A peculiar cut of a calf high boot of screwed method, the only difference is that before a style value with leather top or cuff possibly with screwing, the sole is stitched to the projected edge of tassels in front. the middle sole. This method is used for heavy boots.

26 IS 2050 : 1991 Screwed Construction- A method of footwear con- Sewn and .Riveted Construction - Method of struction in which the middle sole is riveted to the construction where the uppers are tack lasted and the insole through the upper. Then the sole, insole, middle sole is sewn. sole and upper are united by screwing. This method is used for heavy boots. Sewn and Stitched Footwear - A method of con- struction of footwear. In this method the upper is Screw Wire - The threaded matellic wire (steel or lasted to the insole with tacks as for machine sewn brass) used in screwing boots and shoes. work. Then the sole and the middle sole or the sole and a rand together are attached to the upper and Seam Rubbing - Flattening by rubbing down the insole by sewing. Finally the sole is attached by lock- seams of the closed seam when opened up, to prevent stitch in the same channel with projected portion of the ridge formed by the seamhurting the wearer and the middle sole or rand, that is, there are two rows of making it easier for the closing operations. stitching in the same channel. Seams- Seams are joints made by stitches which join Shank- A piece of material, such as steel, wood or together two or more components of footwear. There fibre-board, inserted between the sole and the insole, are various types of seams which are defined under extending from the heel seat up to a point behind the specific terms. ball line. This is used to stiffen the waist portion of the shoe so that it can support the arch of the foot. Seat - The area of the footwear under wearer’s heel. Shawl Tongue- A fringed tongue to hold down over Seat Flanging - Turning the lasting edge of the instep and conceal the eyelets of the footwear. footwear upper at the seat outward, for being attached Shoe - A footwear having an outer covering for the to the sole generally in the Veldtschoen construction. entire feet not coming much above the ankle. It is Seat Lasting- Lasting the seat of the footwear after built up or assembled on a last or appropriate mould toe lasting. to the required shape, size and fitting. The upper part of the shoe consists of number of components such as Seat Level Lasting- A method of lasting in which vamp, quarters, counter, etc, and the same are aligned the upper is put in level with the seat of the last. and assembled together by various methods. The bottom part of the shoe consists of number of components, Seat Lifts- Lifts used at the heel for coupling of heels such as insole, sole, heel, etc, and the same are aligded and soles. and assembled together by various methods. The assembled upper part and bottom part are attached to Seat Nailing- Nailing or riveting seat portion of the each other by various methods. sole in the seat of the footwear after the attachment of the sole. Shoe Bilk - Same as ‘Tapered Nail’. Seat of the Shoe - The portion of the shoe at the Shoe Armours - All the metallic reinforcements at- back where the heel is fixed. tached to the shoe, such as hob nails, toe plates, heel plates, toe steel, etc, caps. Seat Pioughing - Removing the surplus material around the heel seat by the ploughing knife. Shoe Bills - See ‘Tapered Nail’.

Seat Shaping - A process by machine to remove Shoe Forms - Light weight forms made of plastic lasting pleats and wrinkles to obtain correct shaping conform to the shape of the last. of seat. Shoe Last- Shoe lasts are made very thin along the sides which allows the quarters of shoes made on Seat Socks - Sock linings covering only the seat them to fit closely round the ankle. The back curve of portion of the insoles of footwear, generally used in shoe last is more pronounced than that of boot last. welted and cemented type of construction. These lasts are made flatter on the outside waist and Seat Up Lasting- A method of lasting the upper in are made hollow at the vamp. which the upper is first tacked over the seat of the last, Shoe Pat - A heavy one piece rubber shoe to instead of tacking at the toe end. which is attached a leather or canvas upper. Seat Wheeling- Decorating the heel seat of foot- Shoe Room - The department where the shoes are wear with a heated metal wheel at its upper edge. given some final treatments after manufacture, such as stamping, socking, cleaning and polishing, Sectional Patterns - Individual patterns of the upper components. Shoe Tree- A thing used for treeing feet. It may be of old wooden making last type or the modem pneu- Self Heading Pins - Pins having square pyramid matic feet. The shoe is held on it during dressing point with a plain shanks but no head, usually of operations; it is so made that it canbe withdrawn from lengths between 47 to 63 mm and used for attaching the shoe without disturbing the freshly treated upper. high heels. Shore Durometer - An instrument, with calibrated Serge - A twilled woollen cloth used for shoe dial where the scale runs 0 to 100 degree used to topping. measure the hardness of rubber. 27 IS 2050 : 1991 Side Laced - A shoe laced down over the ankle on Skuffer- A specially stitch down shoe. either the inner or outer side instead of in front. Sleeking Stick- A wooden tool about 30.5 cm long Side Lasting - Lasting the sides of footwear after similar to a wooden ruler with a sharp segment cut pulling over. away from the centre portion leaving a flat side with perpendicular shoulders at each end. This is generally Side Lining- A stiffened fabric lining generally put used for levelling the footwear bottom after channel at the sides on vamp in between the lining and the closing. upper to give it additional strength and better appear- ance. Slipper- Footwear which has no method of fastening being merely slipped on the foot and intended for Silbou-welt Construction- This method is the same indoor use. as welted method up to bottom filing. The welt re- quired for this method is lighter and narrower. The Slipped Foxed - Made with whole vamp. sole is attached by cement. Slide - A footwear ornament described as buckle Silked Seam - See ‘Open Stitched Seam’. without the tongue. Slip Beading- A kind of edge treatment of upper. Single Sole Construction - See ‘Blake-sewn Con- A prepared folded fabric tape or a leather strip is struction’. placed under the outside section of the upper to pro- Sizes of Shoe Last and Fout - The length of the trude slightly from the edge and stitched over the shoe last and foot is expressed in sizes. A certain size upper with lining. denotes a certain length. Slip Boot - Extra high rubber boots for fishing. Size Stick- A ruler or foot measurement having a Slip Lasted Construction - A process of footwear fixed upright standard (see also ‘Measuring Stick’). making where the last is slipped or forced into a prefitted sewed upper (see also ‘California Method of Size Thpe - A measuring tape used by the footwear makers. The tape is graduated in 3 mm (intervals) and Construction’). has the English size scale marked on the reverse side. Slip Sole or Slip Tap- A half sole running from toe to shank between the regular outsole and the welt or Skating Boots- Leather lined boots coming half way insole. up to the calf and laced and eyeletted from a low-cut throat. The long tongue is usually lined with either Slipper Last- A last made equal or slightly larger in shearling or with sponge rubber to provide warmth dimensions than the foot. The back must not be so and padding against the tight lacing necessary to give curved as that of court shoe last. The bottom must be a good fit at the ankle. The stiffeners extend along the more rounded transversely and the waist must be arch of the foot on the inside to provide additional straighter than that of a shoe last. The toe spring must support. These are flexible and may either be welted be generous and pitch must be very little. or machine-sewn. Slitting- An operation in forme cutting in which two Skeleton Seat Lift- A variety of leather 1itt.s of ‘U pieces of paper are traced out with a suitable margin shape skived at the inner edge. These are used in over the approximate forme of the last. After fixing building the leather heels to get better coupling of the the paper on to the last a few slits or cuts are made in heel with the heel seat. the paper at the acute concave curves to allow the paper to lie flat on the last. Ski Boots- Boots similar to climbing boots but these are not nailed and have stout over covers of leather Slugging Top Pieces or Heels - Attaching the top which fasten round them so that the ski straps can fit piece on the built or wooden heels by different types firmly and without chafing. These also keep snow of wire known as slugging wire. The length of the away from the foot. wire can be adjusted in the machine according to requirement. Skived - An area reduced in substance, generally where an overlap of two pieces of leather are jointed Slugging Wire - The wire used for slugging. This such as tongue to vamp junction; used also to mini- may either be of soft steel or brass and obtained in a mize discomfort or manufacturing difficulties such as variety of cross-sectional shapes, square, circular, at the fold top line of the footwear. triangular, etc, and available in coils. Skiviug - Reducing thicknesses of an edge of the Sneakers- Rubber soled canvas shoes. leather component by slicing off a tapering section, SouR Stone - A soft, chalky clay used to dust inside for evenness and ease in seaming. footwear also known as talc. Skiving Stiffeners and Puffs - Reducing thickness Sock- The lining material which cover partially or of the stiffeners and puffs at the edges by slicing off completely the insole of footwear. a tapering section to minimize difficulties in lasting them and to prevent them in becoming visible through Socking- Inserting the sock lining inob the footwear the upper. and pasting the same to the insole.

28 IS 2050 : 1991 Soft Toe - A toe made without apparent stiffening. Sprung Forme - In the slotted method of ‘forme’ cutting the slots tend to open down the front of the last Soles- TIrebottom pieces of any variety of footwear and the effect of this is to twist the toe of the ‘forme’ which are-in contact with the ground. away from the front of the last and when the toe Sole Adhesion Tester - A non-destructive tester returns to its normal position the result is a spring used to assess the bond strength of sole to upper of a forme. shoe. Spring Heel - Low heel with a slip inserted be- Sole Attaching- Fixing of outsole of a footwear to tween outsole and heel seat. the upper permanently by stitching, riveting, screw- Standards - A standard is a pattern representing ing, pegging or cementing. the design of any type of footwear on suitable last Sole Laying- See ‘Sole Bedding’. together with an allowance for the attachment of the ‘upper to the bottom. The sectional patterns are Sole Putting- Fixing of outsole of canvas or rubber prepared on the basis of this standard. footwears by cementing and pressing. Standardization of Patterns - To avoid the cost on Sole Stitching- Sewing sole by stitching. patterns while making a wide variety of footwear under one roof, the patterns are standardized by adopt- Solid Celluloid Head Eyelets- Best quality eyelets, ing some common patterns for a number of designs having the brass shaped heads specially to take a like quarter patterns, back strap patterns and tongues. moulding of solid celluloid to give either a round or flat effect on the head. Standard Length of Last- The term standard length of the last is the standard length of a particular size of Southern Tie - A two eyelet ribbon tie. the last, for instance the standard length of size 5 gents last is 254 mm; whereas the length by the tape Spats- Short for spatter dashes- an English term for may be 254 mm or slightly more or less. cloth gaiters. Standard Screw Shoes- The lasting tacks are driven Spectator Pump- A classic womens pump style, away in and clinched against the steel bottom of the usually in medium to high heel heights and with an last. over layed tip and foxing. Staple Lasting- Lasting the upper to the insole by Spanish Heel- A high heel with a fairly straight side staples. and small top piece. It may or may not have a Louis heel front. Staple Welted Construction - A method of con- struction of footwear in which the upper is lasted to Spike Heel- Heel with narrow heel lifts. the insole by tacks and then the welt is attached to the Spliced Heel - A heel of double thickness. upper and insole with staples and a suitable thread which passes through the staples. Spicca Delmac - Name of a process of cementing a Steel Protective Toe Caps - Caps made of tern: single sole shoe whereby an island centre is cut from pered steel to the required shape of the last, used at the the outersole thus making temporary insole - later toe of the safety footwear. They may be placed either united to outersole. between the upper and the lining or may be attached Split Backed Boards - These are made by pasting externally over the upper of the footwear by means of leather splits layer by layer and pressing the same. upward flanges. It forms an in-built integral part of Generally used for cheap quality footwear insoles, the safety footwear and is intended to protect the toe heels, etc. of the user. Split Lifts- Split lifts are formed by taking a mellow Step In - Footwear for women having higher front- rectangular strip and splitting it diagonally forming space than pump with no visible method of fastening. two-tapered strips which are then nailed to the seat portions of the footwear prior to the fixing of heel to Stiffeners- A preshaped stiffening material inserted enable the heel to have a better fit. between the outside and the lining or attached to the quarters if the footwear is unlined. Splitting - Dividing an upper or bottom component into two or more parts by cutting it through its thick- Stitches- Stitches can be made by the hand stitching ness parallel to the surface. awl or by machine in various forms mainly chain stitch, lock stitch, saddle stitch, etc: Spray Dressing- Upper dressing by spray gun or jet blown to the footwear. a) Chain Stitch - The chain stitch is generally made with a single thread giving an appearance Sporta Shoes - Most sport shoes are made by turn of the chain at the bottom and the whole seam method with very thin soles and no heel lifts. These can be pulled open by pulling one end of the are light and flexible. thread; Spring- The amount of variation from a straight or b) Lock Stitch- The lock stitch is formed by two horizontal line at a toe of a footwear or in the arch. threads known as upper thread and bottom

29 Is2050:1991 a- thread locked and pulled to keep the lock in the it cleaner and more flexible to minimize the risk of middle of the materials; and grain cracking in wear. c) Saddle Stitch- Saddle stitch is formed by the Surgical Footwear - Footwear used to overcome use of two needles or bristles attached to two and correct abnormalities in the foot. ends of the same thread and needles are passed through the same holes in opposite direction to Swansdown- A pile fabric produced from yam, spun form a cross seam. This is also known as bristle from cotton waste used for linings of slippers and stitching. interlinings of footwear. Swing- The curvature of the outer edge of the sole Stitching Channel- This tw. of channel is cut by keeping the knife in a slanting position approximately of a shoe. at an angle of 45O in accordance with the stitching line at an equal distance from the sole edge from the grain T side. The depth of the channel is usually one-third of Tabs - The front part of the quarters on derby the thickness of the sole. lacing boots or shoes which carries the eyelets and Stitch Down - The footwear in which the upper is covers the tongue. turned outward on the sole and stitchedstraight through. Tacked Work- See ‘Blake Sewn Construction’. Stitch Gauge - A scale employed on measuring the Talus Bone - See ‘Astragalus Bone’. number of stitches on a footwear to a given unit of length. Tape - A narrow strip of fabric included in the folded edge of quarters of boots/shoes or other section Stitchdown Construction- A method fundamentally of upper in order to strengthen it and prevent the same as the Veldtschoen method, except that a stretching. through sole is always included. Tapered Nail - These are headless and pointless Stitch Marking - Providing necessary marks on nails cut from steel sheets. One end of the nail is of uppers for ornamentation by stitching and perforat- square section and the other end is tapered to a thin ing. This is necessary to enable the operators to per- end. Rough edges of the nails have the holding form their work accurately. power. Stitch Separating - Separating stitches showing on Taping - Fixing a narrow tape around the ankle the welt with an indent at right angles to the upper. curve of the quarter either before or after folding to This is used for decorative purposes. It also tightens avoid distortion of the quarter during lasting. the stitches. Tassel - A decorative accessory for women’s foot- Stogie - A heavy pegged work shoe of the Borgan wear sometimes on the vamp or sometimes at the ends type. of the laces. Storm Boot - Au extra high cut shoe for women Tempering Soles - Soaking of soles in water to a coming well above the ankle. particular degree in order to soften them to facilitate Storm Rubber- A rubber over shoe having an extra moulding, chanelling and stitching. high front and simple outlines. Tension Spring- A spring mounted on sewing ma- chine to regulate and adjust the tension of the upper Storm Welt- A kind of prepared welt which has the thread. ability to prevent the ingress of water into the foot- wear; hence its name ‘Storm Welt’ or ‘Weather Welt’. Textlle Uppers - Footwear uppers made of fabrics There are many variations of this welt as ‘double dect’, ‘notched’, ‘plain bead’, etc. Thermal Conductivity of a Footwear Material - The case with which a footwear material transmits Strained Foot - A weakened foot on weight bearing. heat. Street Shoes - Low cut shoes suitable for street Thermo-Cementing - This operation is done by use. machine. This eliminates the need for previous cementing as a separate operation. A roll of thermo- Stuck Heels - Heels attached by cement, which plastic adhesive is fed to the machine.and is activated cannot be satisfactorily attached otherwise. and fed to the point of work. Both cementing and folding are done simultaneously. Stuck on Shoes - Shoes having their soles attached by cement adhesive. Thermoplastic - A soft plastic when heated and recover its stiffness on cooling, used as certain type of Style- Usually a particular design of footwear avail- stiffeners. able in a variety of sizes, fittings and colours. Thermoplastic Granular Mixture - A type of bot- Surface Scouriug of Soles and Insoles - Removing tom filler based on granulated cork bonded with resin a thin layer from the grain side of the leather, leaving which softens under heat. 30 IS 2050 : 1991 Thomas Wedge - A leather lift placed transversely Top LlR- The last bottom piece applied in making , under the ball of a footwear. the heel of a footwear. Butt portion of sole leather or synthetic material are generally used as top lift. Thread Lasting- Lasting the upper with the inSole with thread by sewing the upper edge on the flesh Top Facing - A binding or lining which is served of the insole instead of doing the operation by tacks, around the inner part of the upper of footwear at the generally used for single sole or cemented construc- top. tion. Top Layer- Outer section of the upper. ThroughSole-The piece of soling material equal Top Piece of Heel - A heel lift which comes in to the size of the sole used between the outsole and direct contact with the ground while walking. insole. Tracing- Process to ascertain the consumable area Tie Shoe- Low Laced Oxford Shoe. of a leather for a footwear, in order to find out its acceptable cost. Tight Seam - See ‘Closed Seam’. Transverse Arch - The arch which lies crosswise Tip- An extra piece covering the toe of the foot- between the metatarsus group and tarsus group is wear separate from the vamp and lasted under with it. called the transverse arch. Toe Bands - A strap of leather or other material Traumatic Flat Foot - Flattened foot due to injury. usually i;l;ed over the forepart of the sole to cover toes. Tread- The floor surface of the sole of a footwear. Toe Box- See ‘Toe Puff’. Tread Lhe - A line drawn obliquely across the widest part at the bottom of the last between the Toe Cap - The portion of the upper which covers fullness of the outside and inside joints. the toe-end of the foot, extending from the vamp up to the toe-end. Tree- Same as shoe tree. Toe Case- See ‘Toe Puff’. Trench Foot - A painful condition of foot. Toe of the Footwear - Front end of the footwear Treeing- Placing the footwear on a foot tree and to which covers and protects the toes of the foot. carry out the operation of hot blasting. Toe Plate - A half-moon shaped steel plate whichis Trimming Allowance - The allowance which is attached at the toe-end of soles of boots and shoes generally allowed around the components for trim- from outside, by means of nails. Toe plate prevents ming during the manufacturing processes. wear of sole at the toe. It is generally used in the Trimming Heels and Soles - Cutting away the sur- occupational footwear. plus material around the sole and heel edge. Toe Puff - The piece of material inserted usually Tripodal Bearing Points of Foot - The three points between the upper and the lining at the toe-end in of the human foot, heel bone, the head of the fifth order to stiffen that portion and thereby to maintain metatarsal, and the head of the first metatarsal through the shape of the toe of the footwear. which the body weight is mainly transmitted. Toe Spring- This is defined as the elevation of the Turning in Edge - See ‘Beaded Edge’. toe-end of the last from a horizontal surface when the seat is raised to its correct height so that the last stands Turn Construction - A method of footwear con- on its thread line. struction in which the upper and the sole are sewn together having the wrong side out with a horizontal Tongue - A piece of upper leather placed below the chain-stitch (in hand method by lock-stitch). The last facings and eyelets to prevent the direct contact of the is then removed and footwear is turned. foot with the laces. Tongue may be a separate piece or one with the vamp. Turn Shoes - A single sole, flexible shoe in which the sole and upper are stitched together with a hori- ” Tongue Pad - A small cushioned pad fitted to the zontal chain-stitch having wrong side out on the last. inner side of the tongue for a comfort. It is then turned inside out. Tongueing Louis Heels - The Louis heel soles are Twill Fabric- A fabric with a diagonal line. Threads split to a certain length at the seat. The flesh portion interlace in the ratio 2 : 2 (one warp thread crosses of this is then inserted in the tvngueing machine over two weft threads and under two). / where the machine takes off the remaining portion of Twin Needle Machine-See ‘Parallel Row Stitches’. the split seat, leaving a tongue shaped piece which provides a reinforcement under the heel. U Top - General term to all parts of the upper of a Under Edge of Trimming- A machine operation in footwear. .. which both stitching and trimming oflining are. ac- 31 I!3 2050 : 1991 ccnplishd simultaneously. lhe trimmer cuts the lining leather uppers after proper cleaning at the stage of very close to the stitching while the lining is not finishing. visible from the outside of the upper. Upper Flanging- ‘Doming out the lasting edge of the Under &dge Trimming of Lining- In this method upper instead of turning it in. the lining of the upper is cut very close to the stitching with the object of producing a neat appearance with Upper Prepuratkm - Carrying out various opera- the lining being invisible. tions on an upper of footwear before or between actual stitching processes. Under Rdge Trimming of Sole - Trimming sole edge having the top edge floated and the bottom edge V under. Vamp - The section of boot or shoe upper which Underlay Allowance - The allownce generally covers the foot at the joint area, lying between the toe provided for one component over which another cap and quarter. It is subjected to maximum flexing component is placed. The allowance is generally while walking. 8 nmrto 12nmr. Vamp Curve- The curvature at the vamp throat and Unishank Assembly- This operation is usually done the wings. more suitable by machines and the use of unishank is to achieve the solidity of the heel seat of the insold Vamping- Stitching the vamp with the quarters. and helps to eliminate the breaking of the sole at the Vamp Stay - A piece of material cemented on the front of the heel. In this operation the waist and the centre of the throat of the vamp that is at the junction seat and the reinforcement are coated with cement of facing and the vamp to give strength at this vital first. Then the insole is placed in position and the point. shank holder holds the steel shank in position. The waist reinforcement is laid over the shank. The mould Veld Assembly Tack- The tack only differs from is positioned over the waist and seat. The insole, welt tack at the point. Instead of the spear shape, a shank and the reinforcement are pressed together to square pyramid point is provided. The tack is driven form a single unit. into the last by the operator to hold the forward draft in the Veldtschoen assembling operation. Unit Sole - a) Single polymer unit consisting of bottom sole and heel. Veldtsehoen Last - This last has a slight bevel along the feather. This facilitates better making as the b) Single leather unit consisting of bottom sole, heel, upper can be pressed into the cavity so formed . The heel-lift and toe-lift. seat portion has a plate attached to it in certain cases. Upper- Upper section of the footwear to cloths and Veldtscboen Construction - There are many protect the top of the foot (as opposed to the soling) variations in this method. The simplest type of which comprises the top section, its lining and rein- Veldts&en footwear requires only two parts, the forcements and accessories. The upper may be either upper and the outer sole. In this method the lasting Q very high or high or very low. edge of the upper is turned out instead of turning in Upper Cleaners - Agents employed for cleaning and stuck to the sole with cement. The two units are then secured permanently by lock-stitch all round. A footwear uppers soiled during manufacturing process for removing dirt, paste, wax, etc. rand is often stitched above the upper with the sole. Upper Closing- Joining the various sections of the Veld-Welt Construction - A combination of upper usually with lining by single, double or mul- Veldtschoen and welted method. In this method the tiple rows of stitching. lining is attached to the insole shoulder with staples and the outside of the upper is turned outwards. Then Upper Closing on the Flat Construction- A method the welt is sewn to the lining and insole. A through of closing of upper on the flat base in which the upper sole is stuck to the bottom and then the outside of the and the lining are not closed separately. upper is stuck to the welt with cement. Finally a lock- stitch seam unites the upper, welt, through-sole and Upper Closing on the Loose Lined Constntctlon- the outsole together. See ‘Upper Closing on the Round Method’. Velvet - Warp pile silk fabrics used for slipper up- Upper Closing on the Round Method- A method of pers. Nylon velvet is used for footwear uppers. closing upper for easy lasting, in which the upper is closed in a rounded or natural shape by closing the Velvet Bottom - A dry finish used on very high outside and closing the lining as two separate units. grade light footwear bottoms. This involves consider- The two units are then joined by one or more rows of able hand labour to produce a napped surface and stitches at the top. the application of a dry finishing powder to give it a velvety appearance. Upper Dressing - Finishes of various nature like water or spirit based shellac dressing and was emul- Velveteen- A weft pile fabric, made oPcotton, used sions which are applied on the finished footwear for slipper and sandal upper.

32 IS 2050 : 1991 Vertical Trimming of LMng- A method of cutting Welt Butting- Skiving away the ends of the welt to lining materials exactly perpendicular to the surface meet the skived edge of the seat lift. of the material. Welted Construction - See “Goodyear Welted Vulcanizing - A chemical process used to melt, Method of Construction’. mould to attach rubber/plastic polyurethane sole to the lasted upper by heat and pressure in a closed Welt Ilough- A tool used for cutting the lip of welts cavity. or middle soks to bring uniformity to the sole edge. This tool has a blade fitted at the end of the tool. Vulcanized Footwear - Footwear to which non- vulcanized rubber soling compound is attached by Welted Seam - A seam produced by inserting an- heat and pressure. other substance of the same material between the two outside sections of the footwear upper to be stitched, W so as to protect the stitches when opened out. The por- tion of the welt left outside is ploughed out and Waist - The smallest part of that portion of the foot stained. which lies between the instep and the ball. Welted Veldtschoen - See ‘Veldtschoen Method of Waist Line of the Last - The line drawn across the Construction’. narrowest portion of the bottom of last. Welt Tacks - Welt tacks are used in pulling over Waist of the Last- The narrowest portion of the last machine and to another the bracing wire during the at the middle. manufacture of goodyear welted footwear. These tacks have round parallel shank with head little Waist Reducing- This is to reduce the edge thick- smaller but thicker and with a fillet connecting it to ness of the sole or insole at the waist by bringing the the shank which provides strength between the head edge down to the level of the surface of the sole or and shank in tack-pulling operation. The tacks are insole at the edge. The object of the operation is to spear pointed. produce a iight rounded waist, a very desirable feature of ladies’ shoe with higher heel. Welt Wheeling - Similar effect as is produced by stitch separating is produced on the welt by welt Waist Trimming- Trimming of footwear sole waist after sole stitching is generally done on a waist trim- wheeling but the stitches on the welt are not visible as mer attachment in the trimming machine which con- they are buried in the welt. sists of a small circular cutter much smaller than the Wet Stick Assembly- See ‘ Closed Stick Assembly’. forepart cutter which can be either round or square. Wheeling - A finish to the top of the edges of a Wall Last - A definite ridge or square edge to the footwear by corrugated wheel used to imitate statch- forepart to increase for comfort and fashion. ing. Water-Tight Tongues - Generally, in certain types Wheeling Foxing - Wheeling by metal wheeler of ankle boots for water-tight purposes, the tongues along the edge of the side foxing in a neat straight are cut whole from soft leather and are blocked : twa line. wings of this being stitched with the quarter facing and the bottom with the vamp. Whole-Cut Shoe - The shoe which has its upper made of a single piece of material. Wave Top - A double curved cut of a footwear top or boot, highest in ‘%ont. Whole-Cut Vamp- Vamp cut in one piece, that is the toe cap is not separated from the vamp. Wedge Heel -A heel extending from the back of the footwear to the ball of the footwear. The sole of the Whole Golosh Pattern- The vamp pattern of a boot footwear follows the contour of the wedge heel making cut in one piece with the counter extending up to the a flat treading surface from the tip of the footwear to back and separately from the leg portion. the back of the footwear. Width- Same as Girth, that is, a word coding for Wellington Boots - Knee high rubber boots with measuring footwear girth. varying width of sole having various designs of cleats to minimize slipping and sometimes lined with Wing Cap - An attached or imitation cap with a swansdown or a warmer woollen lining. These are central peak and curve either side sometimes perfo- generally used during the rainy weather. rated. Welt- A special strip of leather with one edge on the Wooden Horse- A wooden frame of triangular form grain side bevelled and a groove on the flesh side for having four legs and a back having slope edges. This the welt stitches. It is attached to the insole and upper is provided in the upper clicking department for around the outer edge of the footwear and to which temporary storage of leather intended for cutting. the outsole is attached afterwards. Woode? Pegged - Having a sole attached by Welt Beating- Flattening the welt at a right angle to wooden pegs extending through the outside, upper the upper. and insole as in coarse books and work footwears.

33 Is 2050 : 1991 Wooden Shoes- Usually made by carving and hol- Z lowing out a block of soft wood to fit the foot. Zig-Zagged Seam - A seam in which the pieces of Worked Eyelet- A lace hole finished with stitching footwear are placed edge to edge and joined by a like a button hole. seam passing side to side across the edges. Work Shoes- Heavy shoes or stoutly built shoes for Zip Fastener- A kind of metallic or polymer slide hard usage of worker& fastener, with two rows of teeth fastened to the edge of two tapes and with a sliding runner at the ccntre for X closing and opening. Zipper Front- The front of a boot having zip fasten- X-Ray Foot Fitter- A machine that shows a fluro- ing arrangement for easy fastening and unfastening scopic view of the foot in the show. instead of lacing.

‘; IS 2050 : 1991 ANNEX A ( Foreword )

BASIC SHOE DESIGN

IG F . 1 BALMORAL F IG. 5 D’ORSAY

F IG. 2 BLUCHER/DERBY F IG. 6 G HBLLIC

F IG. 3 BOOT F IG. 7 GORE

F IG. 4 B ROGUE F IG. 8 JODHPUR

35 IS 2050:1991

FIG. 13 PUMP

F IG. 9 M~~XXSIN OR C ASUAL

FIG. 14 SANDAL FIG. 10 MONK

FIG. 11 MULB

FIG. 16 STRAP 36 Iis 2050 : 1991 ANNEX B ( Foreword ) DETAILED PARTS O‘F SAFETY BOOTS AND SHOES

FULL BELLOWS

I

\ \ CAP

LTOE TIP SOT T,P

BOTTOM VIEW NOTE - This illustration is diagrammatic only and is not intended to illustrate the details of design. F IG. 17 LEATHER SAFETY B OOTS WITH L EATHER S OLE

y BACK STRAF’ /-QUARTER LINING

I

BOTTOM VIEW

NOTE - This illustration is diagrammatic only and is not intended to illustrate the details of design. F IG. 18 LEATHER SAFETY SHOES WITH L EATHER SOLB 37 IS 2050: 1991 ANNEX C ( Foreword )

SHOE MAKERS HAND TOOLS

A Cool to give decorative treatment to sole edges in the finishing department.

F IG. 24 FUDGE W HEEL Used for measuring thickness, inside and outside diameter of materials, etc.

FIG. 19 MICROMETER

Used to mark the decorative stiches for the guidance of the stitchers.

FIG. 25 STITCH M ARKER

Used in the designing departtnent for measuring various allowances of patterns.

F IG. 20 SPRING D IVIDERS A tool to give a decorative serrated marking at the top of the heel.

FIG. 26 SEAT W HEELING T OOL

Used for measuring foot length, shoe size, height, ClC.

FIG. 21 M EASURING TAPE Used on the welt of the sole stitching. The wheels can be changed to suit the sizes of stitches.

F IG. 27 S TITCH S EPARATING WHEH

Used for giving a decorative edge treatment to socks, especially for ladies’ footwear; can also be used for giving similar decorative edge treatments for footwear uppers. Generally used for cutting and extracting nails like heel nails. FIG. 22 INDENTING SCISSORS F IG. 28 CUTTING N IPPERS

A number of punch nipples of various sizes are fitted Used for cutting and extracting nails from inside to this plier. These nipples can be revolved and brought the shoe where it is not possible lo extract them easily. in position whenever necessaay.

F IG. 23 REVOLVING P UNCH FIG. 29 M ANCHESTER N IPPERS 38 IS 2050 : 1991

Used in the making department after the soles have been stitched for levelling the bottom of the soles, when Used for cutting American channel on the soles. shoes are made by hand made process. The ends of the The distance from the edge of the sole and the depth of stick are also made use of for flattening the soles edges. the channel can be adjusted. F IG. 37 CHANNELLING T OOL F IG. 30 S LEEKING STICK

Used, specially by the lasters and welt sewers in the Once the channel has been cut, this tool is used for hand made welted shoe manufacturer for pulling out the opening the channel properly to facilitate the stitching lasting insoles. of soles. F IG. 38 CHANNEL O PENER F IG. 31 N AIL P ULLER

Used at various stages in the shoe manufacture for cutting sole leather. F IG. 39 P ARING K NIFE

Used in the finishing department! for melting and spreading the-heel ball on theiheel edges;and soles.

F IG. 32 H EEL IRON

Used in the finishing department for setting the sole Used by the closing room workers for trimming edges. Various sizes of iron are available to suit the thread ends, cutting slots and for other similar works. thickness of sole. F IG. 40 SCISSORS

F IG. 33 E DGE S ETTING IRON

c Used in feathering the top edge of the heels. F IG. 34 W ELT K NIFE &ed in the closing room for trimming of lining specially at the vamp and quarter joint. F IG. 41 BENT S CISSORS

Used for welted and staple welted shoes for separa- ting the stitches after out-sole stitching.

F IG. 35 STITCH S EPARATING T OOL

Used ill the shot trade for cutting nails and nail heads. Generally used for cutting leather of heavy type. F IG. 36 C UTTING PLiERS F IG. 42 C UTTING K NIFE

39 IS 2050 : 1991

Used for hammering the punches wherever hand punches are usea. Generally used in the lasting department to measure FIG. 43 W OODEN M ALLET ( RUBBERIZED ) the lenaths and heights of various components after lasting.-

FIG. 49 ADJUSTABLE W ING COMPASS

Used for cutting of upper and lining leather in the clicking department. Us-xl for trimming all types of the heels. FJG. 44 CLICKING KNIFE FIG. 50 HEEL SEAT T RIMMING K NIFE

Generally used to sharpen the knives by the clickers in the clicking department. Generally used in the upper closing department for beading of uppers. F IG. 45 SHARPENING STONE WITH H ANDLE FOG. 51 FOLDING HAMMER

Used for sharpening various kinds of knives used in the shoe manufacture.

FIG. 46 SHARPENING STONE ( RECI ANGULAR T YPE ) A general purpose hammer used in the shoe trade.

F IG. 52 S HOE HAMSTER

Generally used by the clickers to mark the various positions on the upper components. Used for lasting of uppers of footwear. F IG. 53 LASTING P INCERS ( HEAVY T YPE ) F IG. 47 PRICKING A WL

Used for lasting uppers made of medium type of leather. Generally used for all types of civilian Used for roughing of soles for cement construction. footwear.

F IG. 48 ROUGHING T OOL F IG. 54 LASTING P INCERS ( MEDIUM T YPE) 40 1991

Used occasionally at certain places where bent pincers do not give results. F IG. 55 L ASTING PIN&RS ( STRAIGHT T YPE > Used for measuring the thickness of sole leather; cut components of heavy nature.

F IG. 62 THICKNESS G AUGE ( SLOTTED T YPE )

/

Used for extracting pins like pannel pins and heel nails. F IG. 56 NAIL P ULLER ( COMB T YPE \ H EAVY D UTY ) Used for same purpose as thickness gauges ( slotted type 1.

F IG. 63 THICKNESS G AUGE ( V TYPE )

Used for Pulling out lasting nails and tacks.

F IG. 57 NAIL P ULLER ( LIGHT T YPE )

Used specially in ranging :of sole leather. This is also used by the making department.

F IG. 58 SHOE K NIFE Used for measuring thickness of upper and lining leather.

FIG. 64 LEATHER THICKNESS Used in the making and lasting department. MEASURING GAUGE F IG. 59 M CKAY K NIFE

Used for lasting of veldtschoen uppers.

FIG. 60 VELDTSCHOEN LASTING PINCERS

Used for the same purpose as thickness gauge ( slotted type ).

Used for lasting of heavy uppers at the inside waist. FIG. 65 THICKNESS G AUGE FIG. 61 B ULLDOG PINCERS ( CIRCULAR SLOTTED TYPE )

41 -t

Standard Mark The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the provisions of the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. The Standard Mark on products covered by an Indian Standard conveys the assurance that they have been produced to comply with the requirements of that standard under a well defined system of inspection, testing and quality control which is devised and supervised by BIS and operated by the producer. Standard marked products are also continuously checked by BIS for conformity to that standard as a further safeguard. Details of conditions under which a licence for the use of the Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards.

Bureau of Indian Standards

BIS is a statutory institution established under the Bureati of Ittdian Stattdurds Act, 1986 to promote harmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality certification of goods and attending to connected matters in the country.

Copyright

BIS has the copyright of all its publications. No part of these publications may be reproduced in any form without the prior permission in writing of BIS. This does not preclude the free use, in the such as symbols and sizes, type or grade * course of implementing the standard, of necessary details, designations. Enquiries relating to copyright be addressed to the Director ( Publications ), BIS.

Revision of Indian Standards

Indian Standards are reviewed periodically and revised, when necessary and amendments, if any, are issued from time to time. Users of Indian Standards should ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition. Comments on this Indian Standard may be sent to BIS giving the following reference :

Doe : No. CHD 019 ( 9112 )

Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Data of Issue Text Affected

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