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The Smog the Collapse of the Soviet Empire to the Volga in a Volga Secretive Turkmenistan Wet Dreams in Moscow’S Clubland Charming Abramtsevo

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The Smog the Collapse of the Soviet Empire to the Volga in a Volga Secretive Turkmenistan Wet Dreams in Moscow’S Clubland Charming Abramtsevo MOSCOW SEPTEMBER 2010 www.passportmagazine.ru The Smog The collapse of the Soviet Empire To the Volga in a Volga Secretive Turkmenistan Wet Dreams in Moscow’s Clubland Charming Abramtsevo September_covers.indd 1 20.08.2010 12:42:09 September_covers.indd 2 20.08.2010 18:12:32 Contents 3. What’s On in September 5. Previews 8. Clubs Moscow’s Nightlife Swims, Miguel Francis 5 10. Music Magical but dangerous tours, Radif Kashapov 12. The Way It Was Romanian Reflections, Helen Womack The collapse of the East European Soviet empire, John Harrison Testaments: Marc Barrie, Ian Mitchell and Miguel Francis 12 18. The Way It Is Beyond the Reset, Art Franczek A Grey Shadow of Soviet Man, Part II, Elena Rubinova Understanding the sales and service culture of Russia, Luc Jones The Smog, John Harrison 27. Your Moscow Abramtsevo: colony of Russian Art Nouveau, 22 Katrina Marie Green Parts – the North, Ross Hunter 30. Real Estate Private Rental brokers: Better Safe than Sorry?, Vadim Lamin New Trends on the Real Estate Market, Ekaterina Batynkova 32. Sport 27 To the Volga in a Volga, Ian Mitchell 34. Travel Turkmenistan, Luc Jones Endless bustle in Singapore’s Chinatown, John Bonar 38. Out & About 40. My World Dare to ask Dare 32 41. Wine & Dining Listings 43. Coming Up The Trafalgar Ball 44. Family Pages Poems and quizzes compiled by Ross Hunter 38 47. Book review September 2010 3 Letter from the Publisher I used to scoff at talk of Moscow being called a hardship post. I don’t any longer. With at least 5,000 people dead as direct result of the Moscow heat wave and the smog, which many called a gas attack; living in Moscow in July and August was almost unbearable. Coupled to this was a feeling of insecu- rity due to an information black-out, something that John Harrison talks about in the cover story: The Smog. Last month we started to cover the year 1989, in our series of modern Russian history. This month, we complete the year with a brief look at collapse of the Communist parties in Eastern Europe. Helen Womak has contributed a personal eye-witness account of the collapse of the Rumanian regime under Nicolae and Elena Ceausescu. History marches on, and next year we will be covering 1990. If there is anybody who was here in that year and would like to contribute a Testimony to tyheir experi- ences then, please contact the editor. In this issue, Art Franczek follows up his article last month about a possible double-dip in the world economy, with some positive aspects of the development of the Russian economy, in particular the Skolkova high-tech development park. Elena Rubinova finishes off her sociological series on Soviet Man with a frighteningly honest appraisal of the present situation illuminated by research from the John Ortega Levada Centre. Owner and Publisher I hope there is something in this issue for everybody. Sportland SportLand on Novy Arbat has just opened, and has already become well-frequented. With live transmission of a wide range of sports fixtures from all around the world, this sports bar is open from 12.00 noon right through to 4am daily. There is a New VIP viewing area, SPORTCAFE, with 60” wide-screen plasma and LCD TV’s. SPORTCAFE bar has a huge variety of drinks! You can watch up to 20 sporting events, in English. SPORTLAND, NOVY ARBAT 21. www.metelitsa.ru/sportcafe cover by John H Owner and Publisher Designer Book Reviews John Ortega, +7 (985) 784-2834 Julia Nozdracheva Ian Mitchell [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Editor Webmaster Contributors John Harrison Alexey Timokhin Alevitina Kalina, Miguel Francis, Radif Kashapov,Helen [email protected] [email protected] Womack, Marc Barrie, Art Franczek, Elena Rubinova, Sales Manager Accounting and Legal Services Luc Jones, Katrina Marie, Ross Hunter, Vadim Lamin, Valeria Astakhova Vista Foreign Business Support Ekaterina Batynkova, John Bonar, Deidre Clark [email protected] Trubnaya St. 25/1, Moscow +7 (495) 933-7822 Arts Editor Wine and Dining Editor Alevtina Kalinina Charles Borden [email protected] [email protected] Editorial Address: Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. Passport occasionally uses material we believe has been 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible Office 013, 1st floor 77-25758. 14.09.2006 to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim 109316 Moscow, Russia Printed by BlitzPrint. Moscow representative office: ownership of something we have published, we will be 127051, Moscow, Petrovsky Boulevard, Dom 10. pleased to make a proper acknowledgment. Tel. +7 (495) 640-0508 Fax +7 (495) 620-0888 www.passportmagazine.ru 4 September 2010 What’s On in September Thursday, 2nd went to the same school, shared the tastes. One of the surprises for this same dreams and fulfilled them togeth- year’s City Day is the Techno concert on Concert of classical music er. These are not just banal words, as is Red Square, when Russian musicians by “Vremena Goda” clear to anyone who has been to any of will play together with their French Vremena Goda was one of the most their concerts. Those guys were born in colleagues. The concert will be held memorable orchestras to appear in Mos- Soviet Latvia, and experienced a Soviet with the participation and guidance cow in the middle of 1990s. A surprisingly upbringing, and were part of the first of Laurent Garnier, the French guru of united collective of musicians interprets generation to enjoy “freedom”, some- electric sound. compositions of different epochs and thing that their songs are all about. Mostly known as a techno musician, styles with a high level of mastery and Their songs, which are in Latvian, Rus- Garnier keeps broadening the spheres art. The richness of their sound and the sian and English, reflect both the riot- of his activity. He manages his own respect that they show to the composers’ ous happiness of being young and the internet radio, Pedro’s Broadcast Base- language makes Vremena Goda stand genuine sadness of being. ment, writes music for cartoons and out. B1 maximum, 19:00 cooperates with the Louvre. His music This concert will be conducted by gradually transcends the borders of Vladislav Bulakhov who has been heading techno and his creativity leaves the the orchestra since its foundation. Today borders of music. That’s probably the orchestra unites about 20 young why he appears at the Montreux Jazz musicians committed to music and Festival and a few years ago wrote a passing on to the public their contagious book titled Electrochoc which has been energy. Now that the musicians have won translated into German and Russian. recognition for their talent, they perform Red Square, Vasilievsky Spusk, 19:00 all over the world and cooperate with eminent musicians like Rodion Schedrin and Zurab Sotkilava, which has raised Monday, 6th their level as musicians to new heights. Saturday, 4th Russian National Orchestra Archangelskoye Estate Museum, 19:00 The “Electric” night of the (classical music) City Day The founder and head of the Russian rd Friday, 3 The First Saturday of September in National Orchestra, Mikhail Pletnev, Moscow is traditionally full of con- has lately drawn the attention of all, Brainstorm (pop rock Latvia) even of those not familiar with classical The story of Brainstorm is a true story certs and celebrations that can satisfy Muscovites with all sorts of varying music. Accused of sexual relations with of best friends who grew up together, a Thai minor, the famous conductor September 2010 5 What’s On in September was indicted in Thailand. He has been Voskresensky Perulouk at 7pm. Newcom- Monday, 20th released on bail and will therefore be ers to Moscow are made particularly conducting the festival of Russian Na- welcome. For further information please Placebo (rock, Great Britain) tional Orchestra. write to They say what they do is music made [email protected] by outsiders and for outsiders. With Pal- Chaikovsky Concert Hall, 19:00 cebo, all misunderstood teens see their dream come true: here are freaks that Friday, 10th Wednesday, 15th became super-famous. The leader of the band, Brian Molko, applies mascara to Roxette (pop, rock Sweden) Sting (blues, pop, rock, his eyelashes, paints his nails black and The famous Swedish duet (Marie Great Britain) tells journalists about all the hardships Fredriksson and Per Gessle) were at There are few stories of truck-drivers- of his childhood and all the burdens of the peak of their musical career in the become-stars in the history of music, sex, drugs and rock’n’roll. 1980s-90s when they impressed the but Sting’s, or rather Gordon’s story Arena Moscow, 21:00 public by their lyrically pure melodies. is one of those. Before he became They drifted apart when Marie be- part of The Police, Sting, the son of came seriously ill, and Per’s solo career a hairdresser and a nurse, worked as began. Then they spent a few not very a road-digger and due to sheer luck, creative years apart until they realized met his future colleagues. After a first that their strength is in their team- flush of fame with the band, he was, work. unusually, even more successful in his The newly united duet will perform solo career. their greatest hits in Moscow. A true lucky devil in all aspects of his Sports palace Megasport, 19:00 life, Sting now lives a quiet life in a cozy suburb of London with his wife, children and pets.
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