2020-21

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The composition of the 2020-21 Slovak Super Liga mirrors that of 2019-20 after the majority of its 12 clubs voted to curtail INTRO the previous campaign at the halfway point of the decisive Championship and Relegation Rounds. Record champions Slovan Bratislava duly claimed their tenth title since Slovakia split from the Czech Republic in 1993.

Dips between Slovan’s waves of Welcome to success have allowed Žilina, Trenčín liberoguide.com! and Ružomberok to nip in. The club The digital travel guide for from the capital now play at a new football fans, liberoguide.com arena, Tehelné pole, the same name is the most up-to-date resource, as the one alongside demolished in city-by-city, club-by-club, to the 2013. In the interim, Slovan played game across Europe and North at Inter Bratislava over the road, America. Using only original their city rivals also twice champions. photos and first-hand research, Slovan’s homecoming in 2019 taken and undertaken over seven coincided with another successful seasons, liberoguide.com has qualifying campaign by Slovakia, been put together to enhance reaching a third major finals in a every football weekend and Euro decade, a key home game hosted night experience. From airport here. to arena, downtown sports bar to hotel, liberoguide.com helps The original Tehelné pole, the Brick you get the best out of your visit Field, opened during World War II. to football’s furthest corners and Spartak Trnava Slovan played its first showcase showcase stadiums. fixture, against Hertha Berlin, when Slovakia was a Nazi puppet state. SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Formed as 1. ČsŠK Bratislava in When Slovakia rejoined Czechoslovakia CONTENTS 1919, the Čs standing for the Czechs after the war, Slovan became a 13 FC Nitra 21 Trnava who had just incorporated the city prominent force in the re-unified 1-3 INTRO 4-6 Bratislava 14 Ružomberok 22 Spartak Trnava into the new Czechoslovakia, Slovan league, as were Spartak Trnava. Each 7 Slovan Bratislava 15 MFK Ružomberok 23 Žiar nad Hronom originally played at Inter then moved broke new ground in 1968-69, Slovan 8 Dunajská Streda 16 Senica 24 Pohronie across the Danube to Petržalka. There the first club from the Eastern bloc 9 DAC 17 FK Senica 25 Žilina Hungarians had set up a club in the to win European silverware, Spartak 10 Michalovce 18 ŠKF Sered’ 26 MŠK Žilina late 1800s, whose later iteration, reaching the semi-final of the European 11 Zemplín Michalovce 19 Trenčín 27 Zlaté Moravce Artmedia Petržalka, won the Slovak Cup. Each retained a significant fan 12 Nitra 20 AS Trenčín 28 ViOn Zlaté Moravce title in 2005 and 2007. base after 1993, though Spartak’s

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ŽILINA RUŽOMBEROK

TRENČÍN

had to wait until 2018 for a memorable MICHALOVCE title win. They have a new stadium, too, SENICA ŽIAR NAD named after the key figure of Spartak’s HRONOM golden Euro era, Anton Malatinský. This ZLATÉ new main home of the national side co- TRNAVA MORAVCE hosts the Tradičné derby, the traditional SERED’ NITRA clash with Slovan, also known as the (ZLATÉ MORAVCE) West-Slovakia derby. With the demise of BRATISLAVA football in second-city Košice, the east is currently only represented in the top flight by Michalovce. DUNAJSKÁ STREDA Hungarians may no longer crown their kings in Bratislava but Budapest funds clubs in Magyar communities outside Hungary’s borders – most notably DAC, league runners-up in 2019, based at a in the west by the Austrian border, €19. City transport in bigger towns Tables & trophies Qualifying Round of the Europa spanking new MOL Aréna. another easy option is to fly into Vienna is also efficient and barely needed in Slovakia’s top-flight Super Liga Conference League. The Slovak Cup Airport. A frequent Slovak Lines bus walkable smaller communities such consists of 12 clubs who play each winners enter the Second Qualifying Station to stadium (slovaklines.sk/en) direct to Bratislava as Dunajská Streda and Žiar nad other home and away. After these Round of this inaugural tournament. Slovakia currently has no national (€10) takes 1hr. Hronom. State-owned NDS (ndsas.sk/ 22 games, the top six play in the carrier. The country’s two main en) oversee the network of motorways, Championship Round, the bottom six, The bottom club goes straight down airports, in Bratislava and Košice, Slovak rail (zssk.sk/en) is affordable marked with a green sign. A ten-day the Relegation Round. After ten more to the second-tier 2. Liga, usually mainly serve budget carriers, most and reliable. Bratislava-Trnava takes e-vignette is €10, available online games, home and away, the champions consisting of 16 clubs but currently routes provided by Ryanair (ryanair. 30-45mins and costs €2.50 while the (eznamka.sk/en), and at OMV and other enter the First Qualifying Round of only 15. The team in penultimate place com) and Wizz Air (wizzair.com). long journey east to the second city of petrol stations. Slovakia’s currency is the Champions League, runners-up in the Super Liga plays off with the With many top-tier clubs clustered Košice takes around 6hrs and costs the euro. and the third-placed side the First 2. Liga runners-up for the right to

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compete in the top tier next season.

For 2020-21, three clubs go down from INTRO the second to the regionalised 3. Liga, four divisions of 16 teams, East, West, Central and Bratislava. Each winner goes up to the 16-team second tier in 2021-22. The teams finishing bottom go straight down to the eight-group 4 Liga, while those in places 12-15 play off at season’s end. Below, the 5. Liga breaks down into each of the four regions (including Bratislava) into four or five FK Senica more localised groups. This divides into local leagues in 36 towns, Bratislava excepted, in tiers 6-8. Bardejov and Myjava being recent examples, crowds in the low thousands. The Slovak Cup, Slovenský pohár, is also referred to as the Slovnaft Cup Season’s dealings after its sponsors. It is unusual in that Both the Super Liga and 2. Liga start it was instigated when Slovakia was on the same weekend in the third not an independent nation, but part week of July, the top tier running until of Czechoslovakia. Every year from early December, the second breaking 1961 until 1993, the winners of each up early around the second week of MŠK Žilina tournament would play each other, November. The Super Liga resumes often in a two-leg final, to decide who in mid-February, the table splitting went through to Europe. The current between Championship and Relegation Timings are pretty much the same as all have new or renovated stadiums, Južná (South), Východná (East) and competition involves 229 teams, around Rounds in early March. This is when the Super Liga, later in summer, earlier while those at Žilina, Ružomberok and Západná (West). Sektor Hostí is the the usual number minus B teams and the 2. Liga restarts, and both leagues in winter, with the exceptions of Sunday Michalovce are more than reasonable. away sector. Vstupenky are tickets. On withdrawals. Ties are decided over 90 continue until late May. In the top mornings. A popular feature, one or two Sered’ are currently based at Zlaté your ticket for international matches, minutes and penalties if needed. The flight, the six league rounds are played second-tier games kick off at 10.30am, Moravce while there’s rebuilding going sektor the sector, rad the row and First Round features 202 sides from over the two-day weekend, usually often at Petržalka in Bratislava, handy on at Trenčín. Admission is affordable sedadlo or miesto your seat. Cena is the regional leagues, including the weighted towards four or five games if you’re planning a football weekend – around €7-€8 for the cheapest seats, the price. Outside the ground will be 3. Liga. All sides from the Super Liga on the Saturday. Kick-off times are in the Slovak capital. Reserve sides, €10-€12 for the best, a €2 surplus for a klobása van for grilled sausages, and 2. Liga join for the Second Round, around 6pm-7pm in summer and late particularly Ružomberok’s, also prefer a marquee fixtures such as Slovan – and beer (pivo) another match-day staple. with home advantage given to the spring, 4pm-5pm autumn/early spring, Sunday-morning start. easily obtained on the day or online, Decent Slovak Zlatý Bažant is the lower-league team. The semi-finals are 1.30pm-3pm in winter. The 2. Liga usually in English. most popular brand – look out for usually two-leg affairs with away goals usually involves eight fixtures over any Entry level the pheasant logo – and you’ll almost counting double. The final is normally weekend, one or two on a Friday, five Slovan, Spartak Trnava, DAC, Nitra, At almost every ground, the four certainly find the classic Czech played at a neutral venue, Senec, on a Saturday, one or two on a Sunday. Senica, Zlaté Moravce and Pohronie stands are the Severná tribúna (North), varieties, too.

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after ten years at the Štadión Pasienky, Few cities in Europe have as complex BUDAPEST traditional home of Inter Bratislava. and multilingual a football history as Lowly Inter, meanwhile, moved out Bratislava. As well as Pozsonyi Torna to Stupava, north of Bratislava. Egyesület, in the Hungarian era Ligeti SC also came to the fore. In 1919, full Slovan’s current and former grounds of independent spirit, mainly Czech face each other across the main road residents formed 1. ČsŠK Bratislava at of Bajkalská, towards Bratislava the Pannonia Café. The new club played airport. at Starohajská, the city’s first football ground over the river in Petržalka. Currently looking for promotion from the second flight, FC Petržalka were When the Czech league was created reformed as FC Petržalka akadémia in 1925, Slovak clubs weren’t invited. in 2014. Having won the title in 2005 1. ČsŠK won the inaugural, amateur and 2008, famously beating Celtic Slovak title, then four more. The star 5-0 in the Champions League, forward was Štefan Čambal, who Petržalka hit the skids and players moved from Ligeti SC to 1. ČsŠK and left en masse. Juniors and defectors was the sole Slovak player in the squad from the then equally defunct Inter for the Czechoslovak side that reached Bratislava donned the black and white the 1934 World Cup Final. A year of Petržalka but relegation to the later, 1. ČsŠK joined the professional third flight was followed by financial Czechoslovak league. collapse. The club was forced to Petržalka knock down their stadium across the In 1939, Slovakia broke away from Danube, where the Aupark mall now Czechoslovakia to become a Nazi stands. They subsequently built a puppet state. Football clubs were Bratislava new one close by, the 1,500-capacity given Germanised names – those in Stadium FC Petržalka 1898 at MC Petržalka became Engerau. Although Seat of the Slovak FA whose HQ Sklodovskej 1. Bratislava became Preßburg, 1. ČsŠK stands close to a new stadium worthy was renamed ŠK Bratislava, standing of national status, Bratislava has The date is significant. That year for Športový Klub. The Nazi authorities celebrated domestic title victories saw the foundation of Petržalka’s used slave labour to create a new 14 times since the division of predecessors, Pozsonyi Torna national stadium, the Tehelné pole Czechoslovakia in 1993. Flagship club Egyesület, who played in the regional (‘Brick Field’), in 1940, with a curtain- Slovan, champions six times since Hungarian league. Pozsony is the raiser between ŠK and Hertha Berlin. 2009, remain a major force in the Hungarian name for Bratislava. Part In November 1942, it staged the last game – and one with that spanking of Hungary until 1918, the city was international played by Germany’s new arena. Since 2019, they have been then known by many as Preßburg, the national side under the Third Reich, based at the rebuilt Tehelné pole, German version of its name. against Slovakia.

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Slovan Bratislava

After 1945, all changed again. ŠK won the Slovak title in 2000 and 2001 became Sokol NV then, in 1953, Slovan but the club collapsed less than a Bratislava. By then, they had won the decade later. The current FK Inter play recently reunified Czechoslovak league in the Bratislava division of the third three times. The golden era came in flight and are based at the Stadium Štadión Pasienky the late 1960s, when Slovan became FK Stupava, about 20km north of the the first side from Eastern Europe capital, with no direct connections to win a European trophy, the Cup- by public transport. An Uber is your main station – and bus No.98, which kiosk at the airport or machine by the around the Zimný ice-hockey arena Winners’ Cup in 1969. Slovan went on best bet – perhaps cheaper from the goes to the Slovan stadium. Home bus stop. It’s €0.70 for a 15min journey close to the Slovan stadium. The to dominate the Slovak league in the halfway point of Devinska Nová Ves, games are often scheduled for in town, €4.50 for a day ticket, €8.30 mid-range Hotel Set is a great find, early years of independence after 1993. 15min by train (€0.90) from Bratislava Sunday morning. for 48 hours. City transport consists of attached to the nearby National main station. buses, trams, trolleybuses and night Tennis Centre – balconies of some Inter Bratislava represented the local Bearings buses. Taxi Slovakia (+421 2 16 505) rooms overlook Slovan’s ground. oil refinery, then called Apollo, from While Inter have gone through 12 Bratislava Airport is 9km (5.5 miles) charges a flat €20 between airport and Pricier, and right on the main road, 1940. Bombed by the Allies, the plant name changes, since 1898 Petržalka north-east of town, connected by town. the business-friendly DoubleTree was rebuilt and renamed as Slovanaft. have had 17 different names. The trolleybus No.61 every 15-20min by Hilton Bratislava offers saunas ŠK Apollo became Červená Hviezda Stadium FC Petržalka is located (journey time 20min) to the main train Bed and an indoor heated pool. Across (‘Red Star’) Bratislava and won the by Ovsište nám served by bus No.99 – station near the city centre. It also Visit Bratislava (visitbratislava.com) Trnavská cesta is a cluster of old- Czechoslovak title in 1959. As AŠK which calls at Farského on the swift passes close to the Slovan stadium at has a database of accommodation. school, affordable, multi-storeyed Inter Slovanaft, the Yellow and Blacks No.1 tram route from Bratislava Bajkalská. A ticket is €0.90 from the Several decent hotels are grouped hotels, starting with the Turist

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Sedlárska, where The Dubliner offers BRATISLAVA live music and TV sport. On the same street, the Lochness Scottish Pub concentrates more on the kitchen. Further up by Michalská, U Kata shows games and serves plentiful spirits at the 14th-century gateway to the historic centre. If you’re here for the beer, then the age-old 1.Slovak Pub on Obchodná has its own keg room in the basement. A few doors along, KGB offers all kinds of Staropramen and affordable Hoegaarden in Soviet- themed surroundings. On Gorkého, the Beer Palace pours glasses of unpasteurised Staropramen in a 16th- century palace. Towards the river on Hviezdoslavovo námestie, the ten- tap 17’s Bar is a realistic candidate for best spot in town, with a TV when required and heaving of a weekend. Nearby, actually on the river, floating Hviezdoslavovo námestie, the chic nightspot the Tanker Boat by the Sci- Radisson Blu Carlton stands close to Fi bridge offers party fun above and several decent bars. Right in the heart below deck. of things on Michalská, the Old City Hotel is comfortable and affordable. DJs also spin at Hopkirk, a cheery on Ondavská and the nearby Hotel Zámocká 38. Halfway down from the pool-blessed Crowne Plaza Bratislava If you’re on a budget, then the City pub transformed into a contemporary Nivy, a notch above with a sauna and station to town, where Štefánikova both cater to the four-star traveller on Hostel is a converted house on historic dance spot, the HPK Club. You’ll swimming pool. meets Spojná, the Hotel LOFT business or on a city break. Alongside, Obchodná with singles, doubles, three- find it towards the station, where Bratislava has a retro-industrial feel don’t be put off by the ‘Since 1930’ and four-bed rooms. Karpatská meets Šancová – further Near Bratislava station, an easy and a top-notch pub, Fabrika, worth a boast of the Hotel Tatra – it now along Šancová, the BeerArena is an hop for Slovan and the airport on visit in its own right. has a zen spa and decent seasonal Beer easy option for match-watching before trolleybus No.61, the four-star restaurant. Bratislava is a good party town and or after your train. The station itself Mercure Bratislava Centrum has 175 For the convenience of the station affordable with it. As well as most is flanked by the Caffe Pressburg, comfortable rooms and equally smart nearby and the attractions of the city Down by the Danube, near the Sci-Fi famous Czech brews, you’ll find the with TV football and Slovan Bratislava bar and restaurant – stablemate three- centre, at least half-a-dozen hotels sit bridge, the Hotel Devin offers Thai excellent Slovak Zlatý Bažant almost iconography and Antic, a homely 24/7 star, the ibis Bratislava Centrum, on or near the long square of Hodžovo massages at its spa, a squash court everywhere. There are bar hubs bar/restaurant with guestrooms also sits at the foot of Bratislava Castle at námestie. The Austria Trend and and views of the river. Tucked in on around the city centre, such as along available.

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Slovan Bratislava BRATISLAVA SLOVAN

Slovakia’s most successful club is the only side from the former Czechoslovakia to have won a European trophy back in the day. Slovak champions six times since 2009, including cakewalks to league titles in 2019 and 2020, Slovan Bratislava (en.skslovan.com) emerged from a homeless decade with an impressively rebuilt stadium on the same site as the old one.

The Tehelné pole has ushered in a new era for Slovak football, after playing post-Communism catch-up for so long. In Slovan’s case, this was ten years and €75 million – but the future looks as bright as the sky blue shirts Slovan stride out in. Unveiled in 2019, it holds 22,500, such as the full house for the first official match here, Slovan’s 2-0 win over Spartak Trnava. stops, nástupište 2. The No.61 runs the main stand are €14. For €20, you’ll by the ice-hockey fans who left every 20min. get the best non-VIP seats in the main scarves and shirts. On the other side Two tiers of blue seating, each stand stand, sectors A104-A108. Sky-blue of the Doubletree hotel, Brick is a with a narrow translucent roof, are C, where a concourse is dotted with Tickets & shop Slovan souvenirs are also sold on the tasteful sports pub, with screens ranged close to the pitch. Home end, busy pre-match beer tents. Advance sales are distributed via GGT main concourse – again, by cashless over the bar counter. blue stand C, is accessed through Tabak Press outlets, such as on the cards. gates C1-C3, closest to Trnavská Transport central square of Hodžovo námestie. Behind Bajkalská on Junácka, don’t miss cesta. The most raucous sectors, The stadium is by the Bajkalská stop On match days, ticket offices on the Bars the Sport Pub U Belasých and its mural C101-C104, comprise the so-called on the No.61 trolleybus line that stadium concourse open 1.5hrs before On main Trnavská cesta, sport- of Slovan history. Unfiltered draught kotol or boiler. Visiting supporters links the airport to the train station in kick-off. Purchase is by cashless cards. oriented outlets cluster around the Staropramen can be supped on the occupy half the other end, lower red town. It’s 12 stops and 15min journey Carry ID just in case. The cheapest ice-hockey arena. These include the terrace. The Bistro Štadión on Bajkalská D101-103 and upper D201-205, via time from the airport, four stops and seats, €10-€12, are in C and D stands late-opening Piváren BUDÍK and serves Corgoň beer to fans congregated gates D1-D3, the other side of the 8min from Hlavná Stanica. As you behind each goal, the home end the Cafe Polar alongside. Round the on the terrace. At kiosks in the ground, ground. The club shop and ticket exit the train station, head straight alongside Vajnorská ulica. Those on corner, Ceco offers top-notch pre- Staropramen is served in half-litre office are behind Stand A/home stand for the middle row of transport the sidelines in the B sectors facing match burgers, no doubt appreciated measures (€2), again by cashless card.

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Dunajská Streda STREDA DUNAJSKÁ Edging ever closer to a historic first league title, DAC represent the Hungarian minority in Slovakia and the Magyar majority here in Dunajská Streda. DAC stands for Dunaszerdahelyi Atlétikai Club, formed in 1904, when this part of southern Slovakia belonged to Hungary. Even today, a century after the region was ceded to the nascent Czechoslovakia, 75% of the population is ethnic Hungarian. Malotejedská have cheaper rooms The railway station displays the also within easy reach of the spa. The name in both languages, Dunajská Eden has its own outdoor pool. Streda Dunaszerdahely, like the streets in Brussels that carry their Beer French and Flemish renditions in one Bars line the main street of Hlavná. unpronounceable mouthful. Diagonally opposite the Town Hall, the old-school Piváreň Švejk is The town centre was redesigned by themed after the satirical Czech famous Hungarian architect, Imre character, attracting gamblers and Makovecz. A short walk along the sports fans with its fruit machines, main street, Fő utca Hlavná, past betting screens, match action and the Café Budapest, takes you to absurdly cheap beer. Across the Sport utca Športová, and the sleek street, the Venezuelan-run Loft MOL Aréna. MOL stands for Magyar coming from MOL. This is one of in Dunajská Streda are south-west is an affordable find – its bar can get Bar feels jazzy and contemporary, Olaj- és Gázipari Részvénytársaság many stadiums built in Hungary and of town, a 10min walk away straight lively (and noisy) later on. Also close, cocktails and fine coffee the main – Hungarian Oil & Gas PLC. DAC beyond its borders by the current up Štúrova. The stadium is a little on Jesenského halfway up from the options. Opposite, Arena is the main owner is boyhood fan Oszkár Világi, government, bolstering votes from further in the same direction. The two station, the Villa Rosa offers chintzy sports bar in town, autographed of Hungarian extraction, who helped ethnic Magyars around the former infrequent local MHD bus lines are accommodation, on a pricier half- photos of regulars on the walls, TVs MOL acquire its Slovak counterpart, Hungarian kingdom. timed around working hours. For City pension basis. For weekend stays, broadcasting matches and a popular Slovnaft. In 2014, Világi bought DAC, Taxi Dunajská Streda, call +421 948 hotels cluster around the spa south- bowling alley behind. Also on Hlavná, whose sole previous achievement had Bearings 626 626. east of town. The Hotel Thermal the Country Pub is done out with old been a cup win in 1987. Bratislava Airport is 50km (31 miles) on Gabčikovská cesta provides beer advertising, while screen-filled from Dunajská Streda. An hourly train Bed immediate access to the pools. St Patrick’s Pub is smarter inside Constructed between 2016 and 2019, from Bratislava main station (€2.50) The nearest lodging to the stadium Nearer town, the Apartmán Komfort than it lets on, tucked into a parade the arena cost €22 million, €2 million takes 1hr. The train and bus stations on main Hlavná, the Bihari Penzión on Kúpel’ná and Penzión Eden on of shops.

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Hungarian flags and sungs are still it’s €10/€6. The DAC Store operates flown and sung everywhere, most behind the main stand every day but demonstrably in Tribúna B, but Monday and non-match day Sunday, not in sectors CD and D1 for away opening 3hrs before kick-off and 1hr fans. Oszkár Világi’s many business after the final whistle. There’s also associates watch the action from the a match-day tent between sectors B rows of VIP seats comprising most of and C. Tribúna A. Bars in the league led to another brief foray than half the local population, for the Transport In place long before the MOL Aréna, DAC in Europe, when Bayern Munich came opening visit of Slovan Bratislava. From the train station, walk 10min up immediately opposite the stadium, the to what was then the modest Mestský Despite the 1-0 defeat, a flame had Štúrova. The stadium is a little further Pohostinstvo Bara-Kertvendéglő is The club with the highest home gates štadión. been lit, a national anthem sung and in the same direction on Športová. done out in the signature green of its in the Slovak Super Liga are not DAC claimed a runners-up spot that From town, stroll up main Hlavná then tap beer, Zlatý Bažant, Arany Fácán Slovak, but Hungarian. DAC (dac1904. Today, it’s the sleek MOL Aréna, DAC season. Key Hungarians – most notably turn right onto Športová. to Hungarians (ask for ‘Fah-tsan’). sk/en/index.asp) represent Dunajská having been transformed by long-term flame-haired international midfielder Regulars sit on the front terrace Streda Dunaszerdahely to its mainly fan and former lawyer Oszkár Világi. Zsolt Kálmár – kept DAC in the hunt, Tickets & shop overlooking Športová – the bar within is Magyar residents. Dunaszerdahelyi In 2011, he joined the board of MOL, the squad light on Slovaks. German Tickets go on sale earlier during small and basic. The demolition of the Atlétikai Club were founded in 1904, the main Hungarian oil company, and Bernd Storck, who led Hungary at a match week, from the kiosks on Mestský štadión also put paid to the ten years before the war that ended facilitated the acquisition of its Slovak historic Euro 2016, arrived as DAC Športová. Purchasing on the day is wonderful stadium bar that once stood with this region being ceded to the counterpart, Slovnaft. In 2014, Világi coach in the summer of 2020. usually fine, unless the visitors are here. Instead, kiosks now dispense newly formed Czechoslovakia. bought DAC and aimed for the Slovak Slovan. It’s €12 in Tribúna C and Csíki sör, a defiantly proud Hungarian title. Unveiled in 2019 in a panoply of The MOL Aréna has not only been sectors AP and AL in the far corners beer brewed in Transylvania, whose DAC won the Czechoslovak Cup in Hungarian celebration, the MOL Aréna transformed, but turned 90 degrees of the main stand, €7 for over-65s revival sparked an international 1987. A year later, a third-placed finish was close to its 12,700 capacity, more compared to the old ground. and under-15s. Everywhere else, incident with Heineken.

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Hurbana Vajanského/TJ Moussona, MICHALOVCE offers top-quality guestrooms, a spa and restaurant. Breakfast is a banquet. Right in town a 10min walk away, the towering Družba was considered luxury 25 years ago and remains a local landmark. Near the station on Masarykova, the modest Biela labut’ divides its remit between pension and restaurant. Also handy for the train, tucked away down Jána Švermu, the Penzión Hviezda is equally modest but you can’t argue with €19 for a single room or €29 for a double. There’s a bar and secure Michalovce parking. Beer Since the demise of football in Bars line pedestrianised Maxima Košice, eastern Slovakia has a new Gorkého, most prominently Jack, representative in the Super Liga: a large pub done out in old copies Michalovce, further east towards of Pravda, with a pull-down screen. Ukraine. The changeover was swift. In Polished Archa Michalovce screens 2015, MFK Košice, Champions League games inside and out, while the competitors in 1997, were refused In the 1950s, the club moved to 1hr 10mins). From Bratislava (€22), Piváreň Pivnička shows games a top-flight licence just as Zemplín today’s Štadión Zemplín, near town change at Košice, total journey time and spotlights beer. By the long Michalovce were crowned 2. Liga and the river Laborec where players 8hrs. Michalovce station is west main square, the Pub Baron champions. They now play their sixth washed. Changing rooms came in of town, a 15min walk straight up on Sama Chalupku welcomes consecutive season in the Super Liga 1978, modernisation in 2006. Away Masarykova. The stadium is near local Manchester United fans in 2020-21. After Michalovce became part of the fans are few – you’re eight hours from the centre. Convenient for both, with a discerning selection of new Czechoslovakia in 1920, NAC Bratislava by train. occasional MHD minibuses (€0.50 little-known beers (Postřižinské This is a first for Michalovce but merged with ČsŠK to become MAC. on board) head to the Hotel Družba. Pepinova, Svijanský Máz) listed on a tracing the past is tricky. When the Newly formed Makkabea comprised Bearings Based nearby, Euro Taxi can be called chalkboard, MUFC flags and mounted first football match was played here in Jewish players and the Roma Michalovce is 70km (43 miles) from on +421 907 265 175. vintage bicycles. Obscure beer 1912, two years before the foundation community had two teams. MAC the nearest airport at Košice. From snacks also feature – utopenec are of the Nagymihályi athlétikai club begat ŠK Michalovce, who begat FAK, the terminal, bus No.23 runs to Bed pickled sausages. Halfway between (NAC), 60% of the population was who begat ŠK Zemplín Michalovce, Košice station 20min away. Trains Best hotel in town is also the closest station and town on Masarykova, U Hungarian, who called the town immediate forerunners of today’s MFK leave every 2hrs from side platform to the stadium. The contemporary Grolla fills a dark-wood pub with Nagymihály. A third was Jewish. Zemplín. 3 for Michalovce (€4, journey time four-star Mousson, 5min away at Sv beery cheer and superior food.

liberoguide.com 10 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Zemplín Michalovce www.liberoguide.com/zemplin-michalovce

Hotel Družba a 7-8min stroll from the MICHALOVCE ZEMPLÍN ground. Otherwise, walk straight up Masarykova, take any street left, then second right up Vajanského. Allow 15- 20min.

Tickets & shop Advance tickets are sold on the Friday before match day, 1pm-4pm, from the kiosk by sector D4 by the stadium car park. Availability usually isn’t an issue, however. You pay €8-€10 for a seat in covered Tribúna Východ and Západ, women charged €5. Uncovered seats behind the goals in Tribúna Sever and Juh, and outer sectors B9-B10 and B11-B12, are €6, €2-€3 for women and under-15s. Yellow-and-blue souvenirs are sold on the day.

Bars Just inside the main entrance on Hviezdoslava, the Šport Pub Reštaurácia is both a pub serving Slovakia’s second city of Košice, which finished a best-ever fifth in the league Corgoň, Krušovice and Zlatý Bažant Zemplín Michalovce had two clubs in the top flight, saw in 2018-19. Going into 2020-21, Žofčák beers until late evening daily, and a both collapse in recent seasons while leads the midfield at 37. restaurant providing cheap Slovak In Slovakia’s far east near the border once mighty Tatran Prešov suffered dishes on weekday lunchtimes. A with Ukraine, Zemplín Michalovce consecutive relegations from 2018. Home is the municipal Štadión Juh), for much of the season most covered terrace comes in handy on (new.mfkzemplin.sk) have managed Zemplín, a short walk from the town spectators prefer to be protected from match days while the cosy interior, to stay in the Super Liga since pipping Top-tier football allowed Zemplín centre but close to where Michalovce the elements in the East Stand, Tribúna equipped with TVs, is divided into bar Skalica to promotion in 2015. Zemplín to attract local boy made good, Igor runs out of streets. After the running Východ. VIPs are accommodated in the and dining room. Décor is minimal – refers to the surrounding region, Žofčák, back home to see out his track was removed in 2009, capacity West Stand, Tribúna Západ, nearest the this might be the last place on Earth to lending the club its nickname of career here as captain after winning is 4,400, mainly seated, with standing car park on Hviezdoslava. display that poster of a bare-bottomed Zemplínčania. Backed by local building five titles with three clubs in Slovakia places for Zemplín ultras in sector tennis player. Down Hviezdoslava company Scorp, the club has granted and the Czech Republic. The former C4. Away fans are placed in uncovered Transport towards town, the dowdy Piváreň the bustling manufacturing town of Slovak international has twice led the sectors B11 and B12 nearest the Arriving at Michalovce station, hourly Alfa caters to old regulars from 6am, Michalovce national status and made it club’s scoring charts as Zemplín made river. With both ends also open, north minibus Nos.2 and 9 run to Futbolový archive photos of Michalovce lining the the main football power of the region. the cup semi-final in 2016-17 and (Tribúna Sever) and south (Tribúna štadión, hourly Nos.4 and 10 to the walls. Pernštejn beer is €1 a litre.

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provides an urban experience, with NITRA its own art gallery due to open. Close by, facing each other, are the standard but handy Atrium and the budget Zobor, upgraded and renovated in 2019, whose staff go the extra mile to help guests. Further down Štefánikova trieda, the Grand Sole Hotel has undergone many changes since opening in 1887 but remains a classy choice.

Beer Nitra Nitra is a fine, fine drinking town. Near the Grand Sole on Štefánikova Longevity underscores the story of trieda, Pub 33 has a large screen football in the age-old city of Nitra. for match action, neighbouring Beneath Zobor Hill, the Štadión Beer Time rare Mazák, Wywar and pod Zoborom has been home to General on tap. Behind, Černá Hora the domestic game since voluntary serves its namesake brew while firemen formed the first sports showing TV football. At another hub team. Today’s FC Nitra link directly at Mostná/Kmet’kova, the Corner to those Hungarian firefighters – the Music Pub run by Brixtonian Richard Nyitrai Önkéntes Tűzoltó Testület Mariatchi debut campaign of nearby Sered’ in 1km south of town, the stadium 1km shows its Liverpool support around Sportosztálya – who took to the pitch the Super Liga in 2018-19, by which further north near the castle. Arriva the walls. At Mostná/Farská, Čudný in 1909. time the stadium had undergone buses (€0.80 on board) serve the pohl’ad attracts a younger clientele, an €8-million renovation, seats and city, the centre mainly pedestrianised surrounded by big-screen sport and After Nitra became part of gleaming roof of signature Nitra blue and walkable. Local Zobor Taxi (+421 rock portraits in a cellar space. Round Czechoslovakia in 1918, the club set against the slope of Zobor. 908 92 92) quote €50 for Bratislava the corner, the magnificent Mariatchi names often changed but football Airport. is the best bar in a bar town, bar always had a high profile. Before Bearings none. Friendly, savvy regulars convene Czechoslovakia reached the World Bratislava Airport is 93km (58 miles) Bed to sip, sup and slam Brewdog, Cup final in 1962, Slovan Nitra from Nitra. From Bratislava station, Nearest the stadium, the PKO Penzión Becherovka and similar select brews, finished runners-up in the league, the train to Nitra (€5) requires a is a functional three-star on Sihot’ rare gig posters accurately hinting at ahead of top teams whose players change at Leopoldov or Zbehy, serving the adjacent public pool in a superb music policy. Unmissable. faced Garrincha’s Brazil in Chile. Cup/Europa League, Intertoto games, overall journey time 1hr 45mins. From summer. Nearby on Mostná, funky After after hours, those with staying two Slovakia friendlies and co- Bratislava bus station, a regular Alexander’s offers comfort and power, ie everyone, staggers to the Here, international action has been hosting the Euro U-17 finals in 2013. Flixbus (€3.50) takes 1hr 15mins. convenience. Overlooking the main nearby Frankie Rock Club until limited to early rounds of the UEFA Domestically, Nitra also hosted the Rail and bus terminals in Nitra are square, the contemporary Hotel City doolally o’clock.

liberoguide.com 12 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 FC Nitra www.liberoguide.com/fc-nitra

FC Nitra NITRA FC

Their trophy cabinet may be bereft of major silverware but FC Nitra (fcnitra.com) remain a revered name in the Slovak game. And, indeed, from the Czechoslovak game. As Slovan Nitra, the club claimed second spot behind the great Dukla Prague in the league in 1962, when the national side reached the World Cup final. Shortly before the 1990 World Cup, as Plastika Nitra, a team featuring locally born internationals Michal Hipp and Blue-and-white souvenirs should be all-time great L’ubomir Moravčík available on the day. gained third place in another strong Czechoslovak league. Both players Bars would come back to the club later, Walking up Podzámska, the traditional Hipp after a spell as coach of Slovakia, Podzámska Viecha restaurant is ‘Lubo’ after trophy-laden seasons at pretty much the last thing you see Celtic. before the stadium. There’s TV sport inside and tables in the courtyard. Back in Nitra, the club seemed to fare In the parkland by the stadium, the worse after Slovak independence. international discus thrower Matej Transport simple Bufet Sihot’ and classier Spending more seasons in the Gašaj, who bought a controlling share The stadium is a pleasant 10min walk Posednie pri žabkách offer outdoor second tier than the Super Liga, in his home-town club. Apart from up Jesenského from Župný dom, the beers, standard Corgoň at one, rare FC Nitra could attract the likes of Slovakia youth international forwards County Hall in the city centre. It’s a Bŕezňák, plus Zlatý Bažant and prolific striker Róbert Rák but only Patrik Danek and Marián Chobot, fair trek from the train station with no Edelweiss, at the other. to achieve promotion back to the top both with bright futures, the club’s direct bus service. Routes Nos.1 and flight. Ironically, it was a low-scoring main asset is its stadium. Mainly 10 run roughly once an hour from the Also on Jesenského, FCčko is the Nitra side, without Rák, that gained a funded by national and city coffers, bus concourse to Predmostie. From stadium restaurant serving traditional highest-ever third place in 2008. the Štadión pod Zoborom is one of the there, turn next right up Podzámska dishes on the first floor, but only finest stadiums in Slovakia. Holding at the Hotel De Luxe, then it’s a open weekday lunchtimes. Round Despite years of underachievement, 7,500 bright blue covered seats, it 7-8min walk to the stadium. the corner, at the ice-hockey venue, the club recently attracted investment consists of main Hlavná Tribúna and the bar decked out in HK Nitra shirts from Ukraine. In 2020, after a B opposite, home end Tribúna C, and Tickets & shop for the main stand and away sector. serves Corgoň beer inside and out. On successful relegation play-off against Tribúna D with away sector H/D4 Ticket windows open 90 minutes There’s a regular €1.50 discount (not match days, a cabin-like bar operates Dubnica, Nitra welcomed former nearest the main stand. before kick-off, admission €6, €7 away sector) for seniors and 7-14s. behind Tribúna C nearest Tribúna B.

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hotel, its rooms standard but cheap, RUŽOMBEROK with a pool, whirlpool, saunas and gym, a restaurant, decent bar and secured parking. On the city side of the stadium, also within sight of the floodlights, the Penzión Blesk on Vajanského is equally cheap and comfortable, its pool and sauna paid extras. Halfway between stadium and town, affable Miloš at the homely and affordable Andrej Penzión on Antona Bernoláka provides a warm welcome, plus TV sport and chess in the lobby. At the town end of the same street, the Kultura is a modern hotel, with a brand new spa, tacked on to a century- old coffeehouse and congress centre. Ružomberok Beer Bars are dotted on and off the narrow Home to the double winners of 2006, main street of Podhora. On the corner pretty Ružomberok sits in the Liptov of Panská, metal-focused Nové Korzo region, surrounded by castles, caves features an old music machine and a and the rushing waters that power stage where local acts such as Brute its paper mills. When this was part and Bowelfuck tread the boards. Its of Hungary, the Magyars who built terrace welcomes beer drinkers of the paper works also formed the all musical persuasions. One building Rózsahegyi Sport Club in 1906. One the Váh. Fil’o remains the club owner station is just over the river from over, the Burger Bar is more bar than famous local Hungarian was later involved. Taking a leaf out of the – and MFK remain a major force in the town, the stadium further west along burger bar, with a pull-down screen Casablanca actor Peter Lorre, whose Hungarians’ book, the locally born Slovak game. the bank. Right outside, there’s a stop in one room, and a popular terrace. father was an accountant at the mill. entrepreneur poured money into the for MHD buses (single €0.60, day pass Further along, the tasteful café of the town football club, MFK Ružomberok, Bearings €3, pay on board). Taxi Ružomberok- Hotel Kultura combines a century of While the town’s name reverted to its and its 50-year-old stadium, the The nearest main airport to EU (+421 907 522 722) are based hospitality with contemporary design, Slovak version, the club’s changed Štadión pod Čebraťom. Almost Ružomberok is Kraków 169km (105 between town and the stadium. rare whiskies and TV sport both several times according to the immediately, ‘Ruža’ won the double miles) away but transport connections available. In the opposite direction, on acronym of the factory it represented. in 2006. A higher quality of European are poor. From Košice 208km (129 Bed Mariánska beneath the Andrej Hlinka opposition – CSKA Moscow, Club miles) away, a direct train (€9) takes Visit Liptov (visitliptov.sk/en) has a Mausoleum, the Čierny kameň serves Real change occurred, however, Bruges, Everton – then made its way 2hrs 30mins, from Bratislava (€12), hotel-booking option. Right by the own-brew beers in atmospheric, bare- after paper baron Milan Fil’o became to this quaint stadium by the banks of 3hrs 30mins. Folksy Ružomberok stadium, the Ačko is a great little brick surroundings.

liberoguide.com 14 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 MFK Ružomberok www.liberoguide.com/mfk-ruzomberok MFK RUŽOMBEROKMFK MFK Ružomberok

The sign of the rose on the badge of MFK Ružomberok (mfkruzomberok. sk/en) harks back to the earliest days of football here but the club’s current colours of orange were introduced by owner Milan Fil’o in 2005. In the kit corresponding to his paper company Mondi SCP, ‘Roža’ duly won the Slovak league for the first time, and the cup, to do the double in 2006.

And while the stand-out young internationals Erik Jendrišek and Marek Sapara were quickly sold, and František Komňacký went on to work further miracles at Jablonec, Ružomberok continued to remain in contention. Buoyed by Fil’o’s paper money, Roža qualified for Europe in 2020 for the fifth time this century. Everton and Bruges have both graced the Štadión pod Čebraťom. With its seats done out in the previous club colours of red and yellow train station. Alternatively, take bus hours are Mon-Fri and Sat morning TV sport. Even closer, by Tesco, ŠK (white was not an option), the stadium No.3 (every 30min-1hr) three stops to only, though. Pohostinstvo has changed little since is set against the green backdrop of Katolicka univerzita. The No.6 runs to/ the Euro 88 betting calendar on the wall. the Vel’ká Fatra National Park, where from Mestský úrad in town, but only Bars House plants hint at a futile attempt bears, lynx and wolves roam. The passionate home supporters face them every 2hrs at weekends. MFK fans gather at the Pizzeria at décor while a TV in the back room Čebrať in question is the nearest hill. immediately opposite, in sector G of Concordia (Pol’ná 35), at the opposite is surrounded by Slovak iconography. Tribúna A on Športová ulica. Stadium Tickets & shop side of town. Scarves of visiting ultras Everyone will have been here since early Two stands, the old west Západná capacity of 5,000 is rarely tested – apart The ticket windows on Športová open dangle over the bar, where Czech doors. If undiluted Eastern Europe isn’t Tribúna B and new east Východná from visits by Slovan and nearest rivals 30mins before kick-off. Admission is Rohozec beer is poured. TV match your thing, you can join the shoppers at Tribúna A, line each sideline. Žilina, gates hover around 1,500. €5, €3 for home sector G. Seniors are action contrasts with the orange-and- an outside table alongside. Look out for Visiting supporters access via gate charged €3, under-10s enter free. black colour scheme. By the stadium, the blue Martiner beer awning. Behind IV on Makovického ulica furthest Transport There’s no club shop, but MFK gear the bar at the Hotel Ačko specialises the other goal on Makovického, the roof from the river, to find their place in The stadium is a pleasant 15min walk is sold at MaxiSlužby on Vajanského in wine but also offers Pilsner Urquell terrace of the Tennis Club overlooks the sector A of the old stand. The most along the river, turning right out of the near the Penzión Blesk – opening and Gambrinus on draught, and pitch, ideal as you sip your Martiner.

liberoguide.com 15 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Senica www.liberoguide.com/senica

Senica SENICA

The pretty manufacturing town of Senica has had its own football club for almost exactly a century. FK Senica are the eighth iteration, and by far the most successful. Runners-up spots in 2011 and 2013, accompanied by three consecutive European campaigns, contrast with decades of underachievement here, even after Slovak independence in 1993.

Until 2009, in fact, Senica were most prominent in the later years of the In town, on focal Hviezdoslavova, Czechoslovak league set-up, when the the Arli also houses a restaurant, champions of the second-tier 1. SNFL its guestrooms more basic but still for Slovak sides gained access to the comfortable. Nearby on the main top flight to join the likes of Dukla, square of námestie Oslobodenia, the Sparta and Slovan. Although never Hotel Branč is similarly lower mid- promoted, Senica twice claimed third range, with a 24-hour reception. place in the 1980s. Ironically, it was only in the very last season of the 1. Beer SNFL, 1992-93, that Senica finished Senica, aka OMS Arena. The club’s station (15min journey time) in town, On Stefánikova on the city side of the bottom, and had to start out in the home since 1962 sits in a recreational towards the ground. There are no bus river from the park and stadium, the independent Slovak set-up adrift in zone just across the narrow Teplica services from major Slovak cities. Pub pod Vrškom serves Polish Lord the third flight. river from the modest town centre. Based by the stadium, Taxi SEN (+42 beer to regulars on the terrace or 1 944 573 019) quotes €3 from the in its traditional bar. Alongside, the How the Záhoráci, the team from Bearings train station, €20 from Kúty, €30 Raja Club is another daytime haunt. Záhorie in north-west Slovakia, Senica is 93km (58 miles) from from Trnava and €60 from Bratislava Late-opening at weekends, in the broke out of these lower ranks after Bratislava Airport. Frequent trains Airport. same building as the Hotel Arli on 16 seasons is slightly controversial, from Bratislava main station (€5) take central Hviezdoslavova, comfortable merging with a sinking Inter 1hr 45mins and require a change at Bed Charlie’s offers cocktails, fine coffee Bratislava in 2009 to claim the club’s Bissau, Panama, Benin and Cape Trnava or Kúty. Senica train station On main Hurbanova, on the same side and a range of beers. Over the licence and berth in the Super Liga. Verde, Senica have shone since is 3.5km south-west of town, almost of the river as the stadium a short road, U Paliho provides hearty local then. The recent high-profile years 5km from the stadium to the north- walk away, the Grand Hotel Senica food and Radegast beer in smarter To their credit, bringing in have coincided with the three-stage east. Infrequent MHD bus No.2 (€0.50 offers 11 three-star rooms, a decent surroundings than its low prices international talent from Guinea- modernisation of the Štadión FK from the driver) runs to Senica bus restaurant and a sauna and jacuzzi. might suggest.

liberoguide.com 16 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 FK Senica www.liberoguide.com/fk-senica

FK Senica SENICA FK

Winning four runners-up slots in the Slovak league and cup in five years between 2011 and 2015, FK Senica (en.fksenica.eu) have since gone off the boil – but this doesn’t hide the fact that these recent seasons were easily the most successful period in a century of football activity.

In 1921, a group of local students formed Železná únia (‘Iron Union’) Senica and struck up an early rivalry with Myjava which stayed in place through the various iterations of football clubs here in the region of Záhorie, north-west Slovakia. Although the Záhoráci were rarely prominent in the Czechoslovak set- up, as a town, Senica was always owner Vladimír Levársky, Slovak an important manufacturing centre. Entrepreneur of the Year in 2012. OMS Sport was actively encouraged – when is his firm of lighting manufacturers. the Štadión FK Senica, today officially Seating in signature blue is mainly known as the OMS Arena, was opened covered. Home Tribúna B is the south in 1962, the authorities arranged end nearest the swimming pool and station (15min journey time) on is a modest, match-day club shop, the HC Bistro caters to a different for the Czechoslovak national team, the river, Tribúna D is where away fans the stadium side of town. Head for merchandise in signature red and but similarly thirsty sporting crowd. recent World Cup finalists, to come are accommodated in the 225 seats Mestský Park, about 300 metres blue. Also on Sadová, the lively VIP Senica and play a friendly. With the local of sector D4. This can be extended to north-east of the town centre, just is done out in club colours, with a club, then Sokol Chemické závody nearly 1,000, across the whole north over the river. The ground is just Bars terrace to enjoy your Pilsner Urquell representing chemical plant workers, end. VIPs and business clients occupy behind. The stadium has several drinking or Gambrinus. In the same block, so modest, they had to draft in a few Tribúna A, Tribúna C opposite contains options just north of it. Set back from the Beer House is more upscale, extra players. Czechoslovakia took around 1,600 seats. Tickets & shop main road Sotinská, the standard offering superior burgers, craft brews their foot off the gas but still won 7-0. From the ticket windows by the main Sunny restaurant has a large TV and cocktails. Close by, its terrace Transport entrance, admission is €4 everywhere attached to the back bar so you can overlooking the stands, the TV- Today’s FK Senica are still based From Senica train station, almost but for VIP Tribúna A, where it’s €6. pull up a bar stool and take in match equipped Pizzeria Maldini is equally at this now 5,000-capacity ground, 5km from the OMS Arena, infrequent Under-15s, seniors and women are action over a beer. Attached to the ice- smart, serving steaks and Slovak modernised by locally born club MHD bus No.2 runs to Senica bus charged €2. Alongside the kiosk hockey arena closer to the stadium, dishes, plus Krušovice beer.

liberoguide.com 17 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 ŠKF Sered’ www.liberoguide.com/skf-sered ŠKF SERED’ ŠKF After World War I, Sered’ became part of the new Czechoslovakia and its football set-up but clubs from nearby Trnava and Nitra stole the limelight. Despite the weaker competition, the club sank to level five after Slovak independence, then practically vanished altogether for almost a decade. A slow rise to the top started in 2011 with promotion to the third tier and gained speed when a better class of player began to arrive. Long-term Leeds centre-back, former Slovak international L’ubomír Michalík galvanised the defence for Sered’ to achieve that historic divisional title win ŠKF Sered’ in 2018.

Promoted to the Super Liga for To compete at the highest level, the the first time in 2018, ŠKF Sered’ club partnered with sponsors iClinic to (skfseredfutbal.sk) have been achieve surprising results in that first homeless ever since. Based at the season under former Czechoslovak Štadión FC ViOn in Zlaté Moravce (see international goalkeeper Karel p27-p28) for 2020-21, after playing Stromšík as coach. Things proved more home games in Nitra and Myjava, problematic after his departure. During Sered’ have at least kept these 2019-20, with relegation looming, the unwanted road miles to a reasonable club without a ground wasn’t even minimum. Trnava is closer but its consulted when a vote was taken among international-level stadium would Štadión FC ViOn the 11 other Super Liga members on more expensive to hire. how to finish the league season in light only cover part of this long-awaited Somehow, though, ŠKF Sered’ have football. No wonder Sered’ weren’t of the pandemic. The reason for all the runaround rebuild. An exact budget, breakdown overcome these logistical obstacles prepared for the Super Liga – they is the fact that municipal Mestský and timeline are significantly absent. to become a tenacious opponent in only reached the second flight for the With Michalík as the ageing but solid štadión on the eastern edge of Sered’ Ominously, the author submitted his the Super Liga, reaching the top-half first time in 2014. team captain, Sered’ should offer further is currently undergoing renovation. article on pain of anonymity. Sered’ is championship group in their debut firm resistance in 2020-21. Whenever The cost of this reconstruction is a small manufacturing town of 15,000 season. This should also be seen This happened to be Sered’s the red-and-whites might return to another matter, and one still being people on the banks of the Váh river, in context – accession to the top centenary season, as the club was play at the Mestský štadión once more debated. An exposé on a recent locals employed in the sparking-wine tier, winning the 2. Liga outright in founded on the same day that the is another matter. For all details of the Sered’ news portal indicated that the and glass industries. Anonymity is 2017-18, was achieved after decades Archduke Franz Ferdinand was Štadión FC ViOn in Zlaté Moravce, see oft-quoted figure of €4 million may probably a more precious commodity. of lower-league, even local-level, assassinated in 1914. p27-p28.

liberoguide.com 18 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Trenčín www.liberoguide.com/trencin

Trenčín Nonstop (+421 910 910 004) are TRENČÍN based near the station and stadium.

Bed Visit Trenčín (visit.trencin.sk/en) has a hotel database.

The nearest accommodation to the stadium is the affordable two-star Penzión na Sihoti on Jiráskova, modest but comfortable. Nearby, on the city side of Štefánika Park, the Hotel Elizabeth exudes historic grandeur, its restaurant, coffeehouse, spa and terrace overlooking Trenčín Castle rock. Just along main Palackého, the Scarlet Penzión comprises eight red- themed rooms and a wine cellar. Next Trenčín door, the Grand is a superior spa hotel with a salt cave and various saunas. ‘One Trenčín. One Story,’ is the title Under the castle on Matúšova, Pod of an anniversary presentation book hradom is a pension and hotel offering produced by AS Trenčín in 2014 – yet, a range of rooms, restaurant and spa. as their illustrative history shows, there have been several Trenčíns Jednota in 1960 when the stadium two doubles. European ties against Beer since 1904, culminating in the twice was built. Productive Trenčín was Hull, Steaua Bucharest and Rapid Bars dot the historic centre around recent double winners. Predecessors enjoyed favoured status. This was Vienna were switched to Žilina, where Mierové námestie. Warren-like Jednota Trenčín achieved second- and where striker Milan Albrecht, in the all domestic fixtures are currently Lanius offers an encyclopaedic range third-placed finishes in the strong Czechoslovakia squad for the 1970 being played until 2021. See p25-p26. of brews, ice beers, porters and ales. Czechoslovak league in the 1960s. The railway transformed this World Cup, got his start, and where Opposite, Paddock also has a TV but manufacturing town in the late his fellow international Pavol Bencz Bearings focuses on coffee. Further along on Common to both is the Štadión 1800s, when it was part of Hungary. played throughout the 1960s. Bratislava Airport is 122km (76 miles) Sládkovičova, the stylish Barbakan na Sihoti, the stadium between The Magyars founded the first club from Trenčín. An hourly train from Bar serves cocktails, rums and Trenčín station and the river Váh. Its here, Trencséni Torna Egyesület, in In 1992, Jednota merged with rivals Bratislava main station (€6) takes 1hr whiskies. Over on Palackého, the characteristic lollipop floodlights used 1904. When the borders moved after Ozeta Dukla, and played under that 20mins. Either side of the rails, the bare-brick Piváreň Šport Klub has to be visible from the train window World War I, the name was changed name until 2002. ‘AS’ was adopted in stadium and city centre are 5-10mins beers a-plenty, TV and table football, – the stadium has since undergone to Trenčiansky telocvičný spolok, 2003, before former Ajax star Tscheu walk west of Trenčín station. A attracting a lively local clientele. a complete overhaul, due to be its equivalent in Slovak: the Trenčín La Ling took over as owner in 2007. network of MHD buses (ticket €0.80 Alongside, the Hasič Pub is equally completed in 2021. Gymnastics Association. TTS became A multi-national side then won those from the driver) covers the city. A-Taxi excellent, with a popular terrace.

liberoguide.com 19 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 AS Trenčín www.liberoguide.com/as-trencin

Transport AS TRENČÍN AS For details of getting to the stadium in Žilina, see p26. For Sihot’, at Trenčín station, take the underpass away from town, turn left, then cross the street. The stadium is just ahead.

Tickets & shop Admission is €6 across the board, whether at Žilina or Sihot’, €3 for 7-15s, free for under-7s. A new fan shop is being built at the Sihot’, offering shirts, scarves and hats in red and white. The badge is now a contemporary logo, AS Trenčín replacing the elaborate one illustrating Trenčín Castle. Twice recent double winners AS Trenčín (astrencin.sk) are hoping that Bars a rebuilt stadium will reboot the club For drinking options in Žilina, see after a couple of fallow seasons since p26. At the Sihot’, the classic stadium domestic glory. European games with bar is the Sokolovňa Pub, dedicated the likes of Hull, Steaua Bucharest and to the Sokol movement, a sporting Rapid Vienna were moved to nearby organisation in the Habsburg era. Žilina (see p25-p26), where all domestic Black-and-white photos show fixtures are currently being played. The energetic locals stretching in unison Štadión na Sihoti was initially deemed or passing medicine balls to each unsuitable, then the diggers moved in other, with Trenčín Castle in the to rebuild the stadium. With a capacity background. Bernard and Paulaner of 3,500, 3,000 seats done out in centre to the south. Trenčín’s rapid also been a manufacturing industry, attacking midfielder Jorge Salinas beers are available on tap, while a TV signature red, the new Štadión Sihot’ manufacturing growth after the war both set up by the Hungarians when and Curaçao-capped striker Gino shows match action. On the other side should be staging matches after the encouraged the authorities to build this was part of Hungary before 1918. van Kessel, all previously active of the stadium, the indoor sports hall winter break in 2021. plentiful housing and, with it, a sports in Holland, all vital to Trenčín’s contains the Mers Caffe, decked out stadium. Money was poured into the After Jednota went through several recent rise. La Ling is not afraid to in floorball pennants and ice-hockey Sihot’ is the large housing estate football club, then called Jednota changes, AS Trenčín emerged in the sell young talent, either, Trenčín shirts, sport beamed on a flat-screen in Trenčín, in the district of Sever Trenčín, to attract Czechoslovakia’s early 2000s, with former Ajax star collecting €3.5 million for twice TV. Fruit-flavoured Birell beer can be squeezed between the railway better players. Tscheu La Ling as the new owner. double-winning midfielder Matúš sipped on the roof terrace. Nearby on lines and the river Váh. As its name His clout and connections helped Bero and €1 million for Ghanaian Martina Rázusa, the reliable Hostinec suggests, Sever (‘North’) lies on There had been football club before attract Argentine-born goalgetter winger Osman Bukari, player of the Václav serves Czech Litovel beer to the town’s outskirts, the historic then, of course – in fact, there had David Depetris, Paraguayan season in 2019-20. local regulars.

liberoguide.com 20 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Trnava www.liberoguide.com/trnava

Trnava TRNAVA

Fifty years after the visit of Johan Cruyff’s Ajax for a European Cup semi-final, Trnava is once again an international football hub. A long- awaited title-winning campaign by Spartak Trnava staged at a newly reconstructed Štadión Antona Malatinského brought Champions League football to the €28-million stadium in 2018, an extra-time goal by (+421 911/+421 915 then 655 882) Red Star Belgrade barring the way to quotes €35 for the whole journey. the group stage. There are trains every hour to Trnava (fast 30min, slow 50min, €2.55). From Named after the master coach who Trnava station, it’s a shortish walk to created the Spartak side that won the town centre and stadium. A network five Czechoslovak titles in six seasons of SAD Arriva buses covers the city. and took Ajax to the wire, the Anton Malatinský Stadium soon become Bed Slovakia’s national stadium. A visit The Trnava Tourist Board by Northern Ireland in 2016 attracted (regiontirnavia.sk/en) has a hotel a crowd of 18,000, just short of database and booking function. overall capacity – in 2015-16, Spartak attracted nearly three times the The best hotel in town is also the rooms, a sauna and jacuzzi. On the fills an old house on námestie SNP Slovak league average. Yet the club closest to the stadium, and built to city side of the stadium, the Hotel with vintage posters and tastefully hadn’t won a league title since the serve it. The apartments of the Hotel Dream on Kapitulská offers a mid- placed junk. TV football is scheduled Malatinský era of the early 1970s. It Arena overlook the pitch, with free range option with its own restaurant. and the food is decent. There’s table then required a stellar coach, Nestor parking offered and a lobby bar handy Alongside, the smaller Hotel London football, too. Nearby, closer to the El Maestro, for Trnava to win a pre-match. In the same complex is is similar in price and appearance. station at Andreja Žarnova 8, Grand memorable title in 2018, though he a spa, gym, bowling alley and multi- Round the corner on Haulíkova, the Beer Pezinská is another great find, had been lured away by the time screen cinema. Nearby lodgings Premier is more modest but has a an old-school pub with a sunny beer Spartak won the Slovak Cup a year include the Impiq on BS Timravy, a bar, gym and sauna. garden, where rarer Slovak and Czech Partizáni later. business-friendly four-star with a brews are served. On a quiet corner spa, restaurant and lobby bar, and Beer by the Cathedral in the old town, U Bearings sleek, contemporary appearance. The best and most imaginative bar Javeho is a handy place to watch the the Spirit Bar specialises in whiskies Bratislava Airport is 47km (29 miles) On Konštantin Čulena, the Penzión in town is the excellent Partizáni, a match over classic Czech beer. Over and vodkas, and screens football from from Trnava. Trnava-based Eurotaxi Panorama comprises ten standard retro-themed bar/restaurant that on Halenárska, as its name suggests, the Slovak and English leagues.

liberoguide.com 21 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Spartak Trnava www.liberoguide.com/spartak-trnava

Spartak Trnava SPARTAK TRNAVA

One of the great names of the Communist era, Spartak Trnava (fcspartaktrnava.com) had struggled to repeat the successes achieved behind the Iron Curtain – until one memorable season in 2017-18. Mercurial coach Nestor El Maestro took the White Angels to a first title since Slovak independence in 1993. During the long decades without domestic silverware or European progress, Spartak kept their significant fan base, the largest in the land. A new era was already tracksuit tops, red-and-black jester underway with the opening of the hats and flags to stick on your car, all City Arena in 2015, also named bearing the badge of Spartak. after Anton Malatinský. A tactical genius, Malatinský led Spartak to the Bars Czechoslovak title five times in six On Kollárova, the cabin-like Irish seasons from 1968 onwards. Pub serves Guinness, Budvar and upping the overall cost to €79 million. Transport Pilsner Urquell in a dark, wooden Half a century later, UK-naturalised Nearly €30 million of that was spent The stadium is an easy 10min walk interior. Across the street, within the El Maestro was standing on the roof on the stadium rebuild. The main from Trnava station. As you exit, walk City Arena mall, are two suitable of the dugout to celebrate with fans as stand is no longer the West (Západná over the footbridge to the right, then pre-match outlets: the Kaviareň Spartak won a six-pointer over Slovan tribúna, entrances A and B) on veer right again onto Kollárova and Stará Trnava, with framed shirts Bratislava to put the Slovak title within Športová but the East Stand (Východná keep on until you get to Športová on and autographed photos of Spartak reach. However, the Serbian-born tribúna, entrance G) nearest the City your left. legends invited to make a personal coach had gone by the time the 2018 Arena mall. Home fans occupy the appearance; and the Piváreň champions took Red Star Belgrade North Stand (Severná tribúna) nearest Tickets Bokovka, a contemporary brewpub into extra-time with the Champions the pedestrianised street of Dolné The ticket offices round the ground with an industrial but smart feel. League group stage beckoning. bašty, entrance H, while away fans are open during the week before any Several kinds of Budvar beer include allocated one half of the South Stand home game, plus match days. Prices Shop rare Cvikl straight from the barrel. Also the de facto national stadium, (Južná tribúna) on Kollárova, nearest are set at €7 in the lower tiers behind The Spartak Fanshop (Mon-Sat Both these venues are on the first the City Arena – Štadión Antona the train station, sectors 15-17 and each goal, €9 everywhere else apart 9.30am-5pm, match days) on floor. The Lobby Bar at the Hotel Malatinského forms part of a 46-48, through entrances C and D. from the best €12 ‘leather’ seats in pedestrianised Dolné bašty behind Arena is equally convenient if complex, an adjoining shopping mall Capacity is 19,200. the West Stand (Západná tribúna). the home North Stand stocks retro somewhat upscale.

liberoguide.com 22 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Žiar nad Hronom www.liberoguide.com/ziar-nad-hronom

povstania, including the bus station HRONOM NAD ŽIAR in town. The train station is 1.5km south. From there, the centre is a 15min walk over the river, the stadium halfway up on the right. There are few local buses. Golden Taxi (+421 902 917 792) have a stand opposite the station building.

Bed Nearest the stadium on the main road, the cosy, friendly Garni Hotel Fellini Starý Dvor offers affordable comfort. Further up, the equally mid-range Luna is business-oriented, with a restaurant and 24hr reception. On Dukelských hrdinov by the Planetarium, the modest Penzión Žiar deals mainly in longer stays.

Beer Žiar nad Hronom is a first-rate drinking town, bars lining the main road either side of the bus station. On the corner Parallel runs Na Vartičke, where villages to become Žiar nad Hronom, with Hviezdoslavova, the Kamenecká Žiar nad Hronom students convened at a pub in 1919. which translates as ‘Glow over Hron’. pivnica is a real locals’ place, cheaper With football clubs being formed Pohronie to join the third tier in 2012. than chips, with match action on TV Promoted in 2019, FK Pohronie and across the new nation, they wanted By 1969, that glow was killing people. Immediate promotion followed, before and caricatures of old sports stars on their home town of Žiar nad Hronom to set up their own. In 1928, ŠK Horné Opatovce, near Žiar nad Hronom the modernisation of the Mestský the walls. Nearby, the tavern-like Starý were both formed from mergers, one Svatý Kríž nad Hronom met the station, had to be abandoned, mercury Štadión in 2016. Dvor serves house beer to a chatty in 2012, the other from 1955 onwards. team from nearby Kremnica at the and arsenic poisoning dramatically clientele, a side room offering billiards, Before then, this settlement near Pažiť fairgrounds. Here, by Medzi increasing infant mortality. Today, Bearings its courtyard containing a children’s Banská Bystrica was called Svatý Kríž, vodami, between the Hron river and it’s a ghost village. The ZSNP Žiar Bratislava Airport is 166km (103 playhouse. Further up, the lively, rustic ‘Holy Cross’. When it became part its tributary, games at local level works team carried on regardless, miles) from Žiar nad Hronom. A Plzenská has sports screens a-plenty, of Czechoslovakia, it was renamed continued until a proper ground reaching the Slovak Cup semi-final in direct train leaves every 2hrs from old-time dancing breaking out now Svatý Kríž nad Hronom – ‘Holy Cross was created alongside in 1957. The 1974. Post-Communism, Žiar rusted Bratislava main station for Žiar (€9), and then. Don’t miss the unique on the Hron’, referring to the twisting Mestský Štadión served workers from alongside its underfunded football journey time 2hrs 30mins. Almost Hutník on Dukelských hrdinov, filled river that divides the village from the the recently opened SNP aluminium team. A merger with neighbouring everything in Žiar is on or off the with Communist-era flags and Jawa railway line. plant. Svatý Kríž swallowed up nearby Dolná Ždaňa allowed newly formed FK main road of Slovenského národného motorbike ads of similar vintage.

liberoguide.com 23 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Pohronie www.liberoguide.com/pohronie

Pohronie POHRONIE

Surprise champions of the 2. Liga in 2019, FK Pohronie (fkpohronie. sk) survived a first campaign in the Super Liga after a string of three wins with relegation a dead cert. Chances are that the Yellow-and-Blues will have to perform similar contortions in 2020-21 – this is a modest club from a small town developed around an aluminium plant in the 1950s.

Žiar nad Hronom was renamed by the Communist authorities, displeased with the previous Svatý Kríž nad Hronom, ‘Holy Cross on the Hron’, echoing an ecclesiastical Bars past and location by the river Hron. On the main road just before Žiar, ‘Glow’, is also the name of Partizánska, the Reštaurácia Ryba the basin in which it sits. The local serves standard Slovak dishes and football team dates back to before drinks. Round the corner, the Holy the war, reaching the top Slovak Cross Pub awaits new ownership. division within the Czechoslovak The best option is Green Park, set-up in the 1970s. Playing in yellow behind open Tribúna D, attached to and blue at the Mestský Štadión the tennis club, images of famous near the river, factory-backed Žiar Žiar lasted another decade until a reduced capacity from 13,000 to an right at the music shop on the corner players displayed on one wall of nad Hronom received enough state merger became inevitable. Nearby all-seated 2,300, with one end open. of Partizánska. Allow 10min. this comfortable dark-wood bar/ support to compete with the better Dolná Ždaňa duly obliged, and Sideline Tribúna B is where most restaurant. Dora the pub cat has Slovak teams without pulling up any provided a berth in the third tier, spectators prefer, sector B5 dedicated Tickets & shop plenty of snoozing options, the large trees. If anything, the achievement below which Žiar had long slipped. to the liveliest home fans. Away Advance tickets are sold at the back terrace or the sofas overlooking of reaching the Slovak Cup semi- While the FK Pohronie badge features support is behind the goal in sector Galeb tour agency, on the main road the courts. A large tap of Pilsner final for a second time in 2001 far the names of both towns and a green C3. Press and VIPs occupy main opposite the Hotel Luna. Behind the Urquell invitingly anchors the half- outshines the same feat in 1974. stripe to represent Dolná Ždaňa, the Tribúna A, straddling the halfway line. main stand, match-day kiosks sell moon bar counter. Slovak clubs from manufacturing new club in yellow and blue would admission at €4, €2 for women, €1 hubs tend to fare pretty badly in be a de facto continuation of Žiar nad Transport for seniors and under-15s. Stands On match days, the Bernard beer tent the post-Communist free-market Hronom. Part of the deal was also to From the train station, walk up the proffering yellow-and-blue souvenirs operates between the main stand and economy. modernise the Mestský Štadión. This main road, over the river, and turn are set up in the car park. Tribúna C.

liberoguide.com 24 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Žilina www.liberoguide.com/zilina

lodgings. Parallel to the railway but ŽILINA set in the greenery of Sad SNP, the Penzión Central Park looks grand but it’s a three-star guesthouse with a spa. Close by on Andreja Kmet’a, the Slovan is a more modest three- star, dating back to the 1930s. Round the corner on Hurbana, the Dubná Skala has smarter rooms and a superior spa.

Beer Terrace bars surround the main square of Mariánske námestie, the most football-centric being the Guinness Pub, with scarf evidence of Chelsea’s visit in 2010, old Slovak Bearings beer ads and TV match action Žilina is 200km (124 miles) north- brightening up the dark wooden east of Bratislava Airport. From interior. Further round the square, Bratislava station, a train (every the Plzeňska Pivárium and Žilinská assert their authority in the European 2hrs, 2hr 15-45min) costs €9. Kozlovna are both contemporary Žilina era as compatriots Slovan Bratislava Žilina is compact and walkable, the brew bars, dispensing Pilsner and Spartak Trnava did, Žilina had stadium and town centre either side Urquell and Kozel Czech beers By the Czech and Polish borders, to wait until the new century to put of the station. DPMŽ buses cover respectively. Football is screened Slovakia’s third largest city of Žilina themselves on the map. the city, a single ticket €0.55, a 24hr in the latter. Just off the main is home to the country’s second pass €2. Call Taxi Žilina on +421 907 square, beer-focused Gladiator on most successful football club since At the same time, the Štadión pod 155 312. Sládkovičova serves Edelweiss, independence. MŠK Žilina won six Dubňom has played host to Slovakia’s Starobrno, two types of Zlatý titles in ten years between 2002 and national side. With the rebuilding of Bed Bažant and shows TV football. 2012, reaching the group stage of the stadiums in Bratislava and Trnava, By the stadium, the Holiday Inn is Don’t miss the Žilinská piváreň on Champions League. Žilina staged key qualifying games. the probably best hotel in town, with Makovického, a tremendous local It was here in 2014 that ‘Repre’ beat a top-floor spa, pool, panoramic football bar filled with scarves from This success should come as no favourites Spain 2-1 on their way to jacuzzi, gym and tennis court. Its Ludogorets to Partizan Belgrade, surprise. MŠK, then just ŠK Žilina, Euro 2016. Aquarium Bar by the lobby is handy the counter lined with light and dark were twice Slovak champions in station, in a riverside sports complex pre- and post-match. Also close, brews from the Belský pivovar in the 1920s, when only Czech teams The ground is also being used by AS that includes the arena for ice hockey, just the other side of the station, the nearby Belá. On Kuzmányho, smart were allowed to compete in the Trencín for home games in 2020-21. It the local team equally popular and historic Palace Hotel Polom justifies Beervana showcases microbrews Czechoslovak league. Never able to stands across the rails from the train successful here. its four-star status with polished from across Slovakia.

liberoguide.com 25 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 MŠK Žilina www.liberoguide.com/msk-zilina

MŠK Žilina MŠK ŽILINA

Seven-times champions of Slovakia since 2002, most recently in 2017, MŠK Žilina (mskzilina.sk) date back to 1908, when factory workers and students started up a sports club. Twenty years later, Žilina won the then semi-amateur Slovak championship, before clubs from today’s Slovakia were allowed to compete in the all- Czechoslovak league. As Dynamo Žilina, they won the Slovak Cup in 1961, and made their debut in Europe.

Žilina had to wait until the early 2000s distinctive yellow-and-green seats. for regular success. Under Ladislav The home end is the four sectors Jurkemik, the Slovak defender who (F-I) of the South Stand (Južná scored the penalty before Antonín Tribúna), with the main ticket office, Panenka’s famous winning one at club shop and museum behind. The Euro 1976, Žilina began to challenge beer tent is behind the East Stand Bratislava’s domestic dominance. (Vychodná Tribúna), lined with VIP Žilina notched up three titles in a row. seats. Opposite, there are more VIP In 2008, a win at Aston Villa wasn’t and press places in the West Stand enough to keep Žilina in the UEFA Cup (Západná Tribúna), closest to the group stage while in 2010, a historic entrance accessed from Sportová victory over Sparta Prague opened the nearest the ice hockey arena. Around Tickets yellow merchandise, plus free match- to 1957 – and the swish Aquarium door to the Champions League group 600 seats in Sector P of the North At the ticket windows just inside day programmes. Next door is the bar in the Holiday Inn. Most fans stage. Six straight defeats included Stand (Severná Tribúna), are allocated the main gate as you arrive from the Hall of Fame, still to be opened. On gather in the Západná reštaurácia, a two to Chelsea. for away supporters accessed from railway tracks, it’s €7 for a seat in the the other side of the ground, the Gól- white marquee by the ticket windows. Ľavobrežná by the river. sideline stands, €5 behind the goals. Šport MŠK shop at Sportová 9 has Beer is served in MŠK Žilina-themed Behind the railway station, the It’s an across-the-board €1 for 5-16s similar souvenirs. mugs, which make for nice souvenirs, Štadión pod Dubnom holds around Transport everywhere, under-5s free. and the sausages are supreme. A 11,000, all-seated, after a long rebuild From Žilina station, head for Bars politically incorrect mascot in native and expansion completed in 2015. platforms 2 and 3, walk over the Shop & museum The only drinking spots nearby are Indian gear poses for selfies with Backdropped by wooded slopes, pod tracks on the wooden railboard, cut The club shop (Tue-Wed 2pm-6pm, the bizarre u Cára, just before the beer-bellied Slovaks. On non-match Dubnom (‘Under the Duben Hill’) is a through a small area of workmen’s match days) behind the home South railway underpass, a tatty haunt days, the ice-hockey bar by the indoor neat arrangement of four stands of huts, and you’re there in five minutes. Stand stocks standard green-and- whose décor and clientele date back arena should also be open.

liberoguide.com 26 SLOVAKIA 2020-21 Zlaté Moravce www.liberoguide.com/zlate-moravce

by public transport. An infrequent MORAVCE ZLATÉ train from Bratislava (€7-€8) requires at least one change, and often a long wait, at Šurany, average total journey time 3hrs. The swifter, pain-free alternative is a train to Kozárovce (every 2hrs, €7, 2hr journey time), then a 10min taxi (€14, Ekotaxi +421 904 002 222). Zlaté Moravce station is 1km west of town, the stadium 2km north- east. Buses are rare – local taxis park on main námestie Andreja Hlinku.

Bed Integral to the stadium, the ViOn Hotel Hotel Eminent caters to visiting sports teams, offering a pool and restaurant, and three-star lodgings to all guests. The car park and bar are handy on match days. The only hotel in town, the Eminent by the main square, is a smarter, old-school three-star with its own restaurant and indoor tennis court.

industrialised in the late 1800s as part from local fridge manufacturers Calex. Beer Zlaté Moravce of Hungary, it barely numbered 3,000 Most kitchens across Czechoslovakia The few options are on or by the people. Today, with four times more had a Calex, a major employer. The club main square. The sturdy Hostinec u Modest Zlaté Moravce is where local residents, it still feels small. A football played opposite the factory complex on Mnicha serves Svijany and Bernard construction mogul Viliam Ondrejka has club came with integration into the new Továrenská, the main road that leads side merged with ViOn in 2002. A berth on tap, a smoky, large-screen sports sunk millions of euros into a football Czechoslovakia, Zlatomoravecký FC in to ViOn, 750 metres away. The original in level three soon led to promotion to bar behind the main one. Nearby, club and stadium bearing his name: 1920. Records show a long list of fours ground still stands today, punk club level two, before the current stint in TV-equipped U Slepého offers ViOn. Originally, he wanted to base and fives against their league level Quadraton by the entrance. the Super Liga. The final piece of the Černá Barbora and Braník beers in his soccer empire in his home village season by season. jigsaw was the stadium, renovated with a contemporary interior decorated of Machulince where he played as a ViOn achieved four straight promotions a government subsidy, co-hosting the with line drawings of old rock stars. youth – the Štadión FC ViOn lies halfway Ondrejka created FC ViOn in 1995, before becoming becalmed in the 4. U-17 Euros in 2013. There’s a front terrace, too. Across between the two. fielding players from Machulince. By Liga. Around the same time, Calex the street, the spacious Oregon then, Zlatomoravecký were at level players besieged the referee in a game Bearings Pub is more restaurant by day, A handy merger facilitated ViOn’s rise three in the slimmer independent with Topol’čany. Docked so many points Bratislava Airport is 114km (71 miles) nightspot after dark, with an adjoining to the top. When Zlaté Moravce was Slovak set-up, aided by sponsorship they ended the season on -7, the factory from Zlaté Moravce, poorly connected courtyard bar.

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ViOn Zlaté Moravce MORAVCE ZLATÉ VION

FC ViOn Zlaté Moravce (fcvion. sk) stands for Football Club Viliam Ondrejka Zlaté Moravce, referring to the founder/owner of the club and its location, a sleepy little manufacturing town near Nitra. While many entrepreneurs funding soccer teams are happy to integrate their company name with the club’s or splash it across its shirts, local-man-made- good Ondrejka has constructed a mini-empire around his own initials.

Vi-On – which is how fans chant it (‘Vee-Yon! Vee-Yon!’) at the Štadión proved successful in regaining FC ViOn on the main road out of town ViOn Super Liga status in 2010, but – have been a near ever-present in coaches here are often working with the Super Liga since promotion in ex-internationals seeing out the end 2007. That same month of May, ViOn of their careers. Midfielder Tomáš won the Slovak Cup, bringing Zenit St Ďubek, goalkeeper Pavel Kováč and Petersburg here for the subsequent centre-back Pavol Majernik are all UEFA Cup tie. Ondrejka was said to recent examples. have spent the windfall on a new Tickets & shop The public are welcome but fans digger for his construction company. Following its renovation in 2014, the Sold at the windows through the main prefer to gather at Bistro, a service- Štadión FC ViOn is a neat, compact entrance, tickets are €6 everywhere, station café converted into ViOn- Considering this was a football ground of near-4,000 capacity. With €4 for over-62s, under-12s and themed football bar at the garage backwater for decades – neither no difference in ticket prices, many women. Under-6s get in free. A small alongside the hotel. Presided over Zlatomoravecký FC nor their home fans prefer to occupy the main kiosk for red-and-blue souvenirs by friendly, formidable Hungarian sponsored heirs Calex made the stand, Hlavná Tribúna, to the left as Transport operates by the main entrance on landlady Gabi, the busy counter is second flight – local support for ViOn you enter through the main gate. With few local buses, from town match days. a flurry of Zlatý Bažant bottles and is surprisingly lively. Ondrejka played Opposite, by the training pitch, the it’s a 15min walk over the river, Corgoň beer glasses of a match day. for Machulince, his home village the sideline Severná Tribúna is also turning right at the roundabout onto Bars Framed shirts, match shots and other side of the stadium from Zlaté popular. Away fans are allocated Továrenská. From the station, head Decorated with framed photos of ViOn trophies cover the walls – you forget Moravce, and has overseen a couple sector B1, half of the Západná Tribúna up Hviezdoslavova, then turn left at action, the bar at the ViOn Hotel is you’re meant to be paying for petrol or of savvy managerial appointments. – the facing goal is the Východná the roundabout. A taxi from town or where sports journalists and officials buying crisps. If it gets a little noisy, a Previously untried Juraj Jarábek Tribúna. station should cost €3. convene over busy pre-match chatter. little side terrace catches the sun.

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