Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation Winter 2004 Volume XVIII, No. 1 The Fires of 2003: An Anthology

Also Inside: ¥ Lake McDonald Lodge in the ‘40s ¥ Wrangler Tales ¥ Backing out of an Avalanche ¥ On the Trail with David Paulus

Smoke shrouds Glacier’s landscape. A foreboding wind brings a threat of annihilation to the Glacier Park we have known. (Mary Grace Galvin Photo)

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 1 Glacier Park Fires of 2003 Six major fires burned more than 135,000 acres of forest in Glacier National Park in the summer of 2003. This is roughly 13% of Glacier’s total area (including bare rock, water, ice, and snow). The destruction could have been much worse. Lives might have been lost when the fires made sudden runs toward populated areas and Going- to-the-Sun Road. Fires came very Map courtesy of the Glacier Park website, close to burning Apgar, West Gla- cier, Park Headquarters, and irre- firefighting crews. Backfires and other withering heat. The Glacier Park placeable historic lodges. tactical maneuvers were conducted Foundation salutes these determined with great skill. Many hundreds of crews for preserving lives and minimiz- Such disasters were averted by the hard firefighters labored for weeks on end in ing damage to the Park. and skillful work of interagency

Glacier Park Foundation Officers: P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President Minneapolis, MN 55415 Einar Hanson, First Vice President www.glacierparkfoundation.org Carol Dahle, Vice President - Member- The Inside Trail takes its ship Board of Directors: Mac Willemssen, Secretary name from the famous old Tessie Bundick Tessie Bundick, Historian trail which connected Gla- Laura Chihara Jim Lees, Treasurer cier Park Lodge with the Janet Eisner Cornish Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor Carol Repulski Dahle vanished chalets at Two Joyce Daugaard The Glacier Park Foundation was Medicine, Cut Bank, and St. Glen Elvig formed by Glacier Park employees Lee Flath and visitors who have a deep love Mary. The name thus em- David Gilbertson for this special place. The Founda- phasizes the publication’s John Hagen tion is commited both to the focus on the lore and history Einar Hanson importance of wilderness preserva- Paul Hoff tion and to the importance of places of Glacier National Park. Mark Hufstetler like Glacier as classrooms where We invite submission of people can experience wilderness Jeff Kuhn in intense meaningful ways, historical, scientific, or Linda Young Kuhn learning not only a love for the land, anecdotal articles, commen- Rolf Larson but also a respect that nurtures the Leroy Lott skills necessary to preserve that tary, poetry, or artwork for Greg Notess land. The Foundation has a special publication in future issues. Mac Willemssen interest in Glacier Park’s history, traditions and visitor facilities.

2 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail THE FIRES OF 2003: A Synopsis

Grinnell Point brooding like Mt. Vesuvius above Many Glacier Hotel, enshrouded by the smoke of the Trapper Fire. (John Hagen Photo)

500-foot flames raging into the night racing uphill to Swiftcurrent Pass. towns. Helicopters and air tankers sky on the shores of Lake Next morning the Many Glacier dropped retardant and water to McDonald. Fire blazing on Valley was evacuated and hundreds buffer them from the backfires. Swiftcurrent Pass, endangering the of lodge employees were sent to East During early August, the fires smol- Many Glacier Valley. Diners aban- Glacier. dered. Then, on August 10, high doning half-eaten meals to evacuate winds blew up the Robert Fire again. Lake McDonald Lodge. Helicopters Meanwhile, the Robert Fire was Within a matter of hours, it ran up dropping incendiary “ping-pong threatening the west entrance to the the western shore of Lake McDonald, balls” to set off tactical backfires. Park. Robert started through human generating enormous flames. As These are some of the enduring activity southwest of Glacier Park on night fell, the McDonald Valley was images of Glacier Park’s 2003 fire July 23. It quickly spread into hastily evacuated again. The valley season. Glacier, burning over much of the Apgar Mountains. The McDonald remained full of smoke for weeks as the The fires began in the middle of July, Valley was evacuated. On July 28, fire continued to expand. with moisture levels in vegetation at 500 residents fled the town of West Meanwhile, more lightning strikes record lows. Lightning strikes on Glacier. touched off large fires along the July 16 touched off several fires Park’s south side. For nearly two which would grow to huge propor- Backfires were set outside West months, from mid-July to early tions. These included the Trapper Glacier and Apgar to interdict the September, there was no significant Creek fire in the upper McDonald fire. The enormous updraft of the rain. At last, on September 8, heavy Valley, the Wedge Creek Fire just Robert Fire sucked the backfires rains drew the most destructive fire outside Glacier in the North Fork, westward into the main conflagra- season in Glacier’s history toward a and the Wolf Gun Fire in the tion. This process created a burned- close. Livingston Range. out firebreak protecting the two The Trapper Creek Fire spread 500-foot flames raging into the night sky on the shores steadily over West Flattop Mountain, of Lake McDonald. Fire blazing on Swiftcurrent Pass, sending smoke over much of the endangering the Many Glacier Valley. Diners Park. On July 23, it exploded abandoning half-eaten meals to evacuate Lake dramatically, overrunning the Loop McDonald Lodge. on Going-to-the-Sun Road and then

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 3 The Explosion of the Trapper Fire

A Lookout’s View

By Christine Baker There was no mistaking it when Trap- taking leave. Conditions were per decided to make its move. I was Back at the Swiftcurrent Fire Lookout heating up in Glacier. Temps were looking right at it when it did. That after a 10-year hiatus at Huckleberry high and fuel moistures were abys- wimpy white column suddenly grew Lookout was like heaven in 2001. mally low. I had this wild card tall, turned to brown, then black. Then Oh, I loved my time at Huckleberry— hunch that I might not be home it was wider ... and moving. I remem- the bears, the North Fork, the fire again for a long, long time. Nothing ber calling the Fire Cache and trying to challenges—but I almost felt like it I could put into words or even share sound calm, controlled — but feeling was retirement for me to be back at with my husband Bob, but I found that this was pretty darn outrageous Swifty. Let the North Fork lookouts myself boxing up double rations for and that they’d better get on the stick do all the heavy work—I’d just look my next pack trip. I didn’t really and DO something. “It’s crowning!” I out over all this beautiful, nonflam- know why – I just did it. As it remember saying, and it was … and mable scenery all summer and inter- turned out, those would prove to be moving fast. pret for visitors. the last four days off I would have Now, a crowning fire is a big concern— Wrong. 2003 would set me right. It for the rest of the summer. kind of like that magic number “7” on would prove to be one for the history When I arrived back at Swiftcurrent, the California earthquake scales. I kept books, and would show us all once Flattop Mountain was puffing here telling myself not to panic. After all, more just why those hard-bitten old and there, but the smokes just this was in the middle of Flattop park planners had decided back in weren’t that impressive. The light- Mountain—there’s just not as much 1936 to build a lookout atop—of all ning storm had planted its seeds, but that a fire can really hurt there. Granite places—Swiftcurrent Mountain. nothing much was showing yet. I Park was a concern, but the fire move- I drove home for lieu days that hot settled in, put a little extra care into ment was toward the northeast, and July weekend, all the while trying to my afternoon scans, and turned my Granite looked okay—at first. My real ignore the nagging feeling in the pit of attention to my revised lesson plans concern was Swiftcurrent Valley, and my stomach that I really shouldn’t be for Beowulf. making sure nothing remotely resem- bling a spark would ever touch an east 4 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail Station all night, should an evacua- side fir tree. What was happening on Michael Ober called on the radio and tion become necessary. Flattop was huge, but that fire had asked if that was my car parked there lots of bare rock and a couple of at the Loop. I told him where my Night fell, and finally I could see the glaciers here and there to cross before spare keys were hidden, thinking, fire appear through the smoke as a it could even touch the east side. “They can’t do anything—they’re just thousand points of flame and torch- Surely it couldn’t cross the Divide ...? booking trying to get visitors out of ing trees. It was like looking at the there. I wonder if we’re paid up on Milky Way from Babb on a clear I can remember using the word our insurance?” At this point I called evening. So humbling. The sheer “surreal” a lot in my journal that Bob on the cell and told him to get area of land that the fire had traveled afternoon. It didn’t take too long used to the idea of not having the car over since that small white puff of before my vista towards the west was we had just purchased a month smoke at 2 P.M. the afternoon before nothing but amber billows of smoke before. was enough to inspire awe. I re- and embers. Visibility deteriorated member just staring a lot in unbelief. to nothing, and I began coughing Many Glacier personnel were all ears Sleep wasn’t even an option. This from the intense smoke. I wasn’t as they listened to west side radio was history, and I was privileged to sure whether I should be concerned traffic. They needed to know just have a front row seat. I cradled my about that or not, so I soaked a where the fire was and what was the head on and off on my pillow just bandanna in water and took to potential threat to the valley. Time marveling at what was before me. breathing through it to filter some of for them was crucial. Once the fire My beautiful Glacier was growing, the soot. That got old fast, so I was on their side of the rock, the changing, undergoing those epochal discarded the bandanna and just clock would be ticking. I couldn’t upheavals that we so blithely spout coughed and took my chances. tell them a whole lot because I was are natural and destined, but to in a sea of smoke and flying debris. By this time I figured the fire could be actually have them happen on our Bob Adams and Rachel Jenkins watch is so — difficult and foreign. anywhere below me. I knew Chris hunkered down to monitor their Burke down at the Chalet was moving radios at Many Glacier Ranger fast to get hoses and sprinklers operating and that meant the fire was probably also moving southeast. I could only imagine what kind of chaos was going on down at Granite right now. Sun Road was being evacuated, and I remem- ber thinking, “YES – finally!” Then out of the blue, I thought of my car parked down at the Loop. If the fire plowed across McDonald Creek and onward, my car would be smack dab in its path. Toast. Almost simultaneously, ranger Swiftcurrent Lookout found itself in the middle of the action this past summer. (Christine Baker Photo) The Inside Trail Fall 2003 5 Explosion of the Trapper Fire continued Suddenly I caught sight of orange at last they disappeared. Gone? I Heaven’s Peak in all my photos and below me and to the south. Even in couldn’t be sure. But by 5 A.M. I that my kids have learned to take for the dark, I knew that the fire now felt more secure. granted. They weren’t there. Instead was on the switchbacks to the I saw blackened ghosts and charred A month later, after weeks of watch- lookout. And once it was there, it ground cover. I hiked through a ing Trapper have its way with my could jump over almost anytime. lunar landscape that I knew was memories of Flattop Mountain and Down at Many, Bob and Rachel, both natural order and devastation. the Highline Trail, I hiked down too, could see the dragon’s eyes I thrilled and mourned all at once. I from my lookout for the season, peeking over the pass. The firs don’t think I will ever feel that again. heading for a way-too-soon end to below me were scrub, no taller than my summer and a begrudging Next spring there will be glacier lilies eight feet or so, but each one that beginning of another school year. I there, and Glacier will go on, as it torched was like a match igniting, regaled in the switchbacks down to has these many years before we came sending an initial plume of flame the treeline, gazing out over the to love it so. And God will show us high into the air. I couldn’t help pristine beauty of the Divide that we anew how permanent, how unpre- myself. I stepped out and took a all have come to love no matter from dictable, and how beautiful this picture in the dark, hoping I’d get what perspective we view it. special place in Montana really is. some sort of image of the fire to remember the moment. But then I came to the trees—those (Christine Baker has worked in Glacier beautiful firs I have come to love— since 1970 as a Rising Sun employee, Later on the fire spread east along my friends and companions on my park ranger, and fire lookout) the mountain, but because I was on ascents and descents of Swiftcurrent top, I couldn’t see just where it was. Mountain—the ones that frame The higher cliffs and ledges of the mountain hid it from me. But along about two in the morning I could see an orange glow from below me and to the southeast. I figured it had traveled through the fir stand across the base of the mountain, but I felt confident it hadn’t gotten beyond Devil’s Elbow. All night I watched that glow. At times I wrestled with whether I should call Many, but the glow didn’t travel, and I knew the wee hours and higher humidities of the morning would calm the beast of the Trapper Fire. At about 2:30 A.M. I saw four distinct spot fires north of me and east of the Divide. They were Burned trees on pinpoints, but they were there—fires the flanks of on the east side. Still, their location Swiftcurrent was so remote, and they would have Mountain. huge distances of rock to cross before (Christine they could ever ignite anything Baker Photo) flammable. I sat glued to them until

6 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail The Trapper Fire Overruns the Loop: A Ranger’s View By Michael J. Ober supervisor, Gary, in his vehicle, start chalet while starting the pumps for conducting the sweep of cars in structural protection. Four till midnight shift. Wednesday, between, sending them east or west July 23. Only thing different on Meanwhile, Gary, who is below us at to clear the road of visitors in the this shift is that I pick up a ride-a- the West Tunnel, radios that he is path of the fire. We’ve done this long partner and fellow law enforce- “inching my way up to the Loop to before. We know the routine. Then ment ranger, Angie Rutherford, our see if I can get through”. Angie and came the unexpected twist. Folks we Bowman Lake Ranger, down from I are stopped in the middle of the had sent DOWN the road from the North Fork for eight hours of road when, moments later, Gary’s above the Loop were coming back to road patrol duties. Get the patrol Ford Expedition emerges from the our position at Crystal Point ex- car, check the lights, radio, trunk black and orange inferno that has plaining, with wide eyes and in- gear, check each other’s gear, load the swallowed up the entire Loop area. credulous looks, that they couldn’t shotgun, prepare the shift report and “It’s not too bad,” he reports, “I get through because the fire was head up to the Pass from Apgar. think we can make it back down.” right next to the Loop! Apart from the relentless columns of We roll up the windows, Angie shifts smoke from the Wedge and Trapper This can’t be happening. We had just into gear and we follow him cau- fires, the evening is calm with lots of been there and, while we were tiously downhill into the fire zone. summer traffic and otherwise clear obliged to eat smoke, the passage Of concern to all of us is the ac- sky. Angie and I settle in with easy appeared safe for visitors. Angie counting of people and vehicles at conversation, catching up on each and I quickly proceed down towards the Loop so that we can be certain other’s summer events. the Loop. It takes only a few curves that everyone was evacuated and in the road and less than one quarter By the time we reach the Loop it is away from the threat. Gary radios of a mile to recognize that something clear that something is not right us that there are two vehicles left at is terribly awry with the Trapper with the Trapper Fire. Angry and the Loop but that he cannot ascer- Fire. And worse, now we are restless, brooding for some kind of tain where the occupants are. There trapped above the Loop with no way noteworthy run after slowly chewing is also a lone bicycle resting against down along with several cars of east up ground fuels for days, whole the rock wall of the upper parking bound visitors emerging from the groups of trees are beginning to lot. If they are up on the Loop Trail wall of smoke who are whizzing by torch, black clouds of smoke are … well, there is simply nothing any us flashing their lights and shaking arising from the Upper McDonald of us can do. their heads at us with the silent Valley in huge volumes. Visibility is message “you don’t want to go down When we arrive at the Loop it is deteriorating. Our Comm Center there”. dark, eerily dark. Fire is on both calls and informs us that the Trapper sides of the road licking at anything Incident Command has declared Meanwhile, our radio is bursting combustible with a hungry, calm that the road must be closed imme- with traffic. Swiftcurrent Lookout crackle. Short canopy runs are diately because of imminent runs Chris Baker is reporting that her happening both below and above the near the Loop and we begin commu- lookout is engulfed in thick dark parking lot; brush and ground fuels nication with other patrol units to smoke and that just before the view are burning steadily and burning shut the road down. closed in on her, it was clear that the branches, large and small, are falling fire was making a run uphill from Donna from the east side swings the all around, debris is everywhere, Mineral Creek. Our maintenance gate at Big Bend and Cory from our layers of burned pine needles like personnel at Granite Park Chalet side closes the gate at Avalanche. thousands of fallen soldiers litter the radio that they are trying desperately Angie and I, in our vehicle, and our road surface. to collect hikers and guests at the

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 7 A Ranger’s View continued

When you jump out of an air- placing my hand on the rear panel of potties on fire and see that a third one conditioned patrol vehicle into such the car to retrieve the hidden keys has melted and collapsed into the a scene, the sensation that embraces but it is just too hot to touch. With slope, a molten heap of bubbling, you the most is the heat. Heat just keys finally in hand, I race to the smoking green-gray plastic. pours off the road surface, the door, unlock it, start up and shove Postscript: Two Incident Command nearby rocks, even the trees them- the pedal down. Nothing. Oh, no! overhead personnel performed a selves that are pulsing smoke or Parking brake! Where is the release? daring walk in the dark up the Loop flames and sending hot air every- Look. Look. Got it. Roar out of Trail immediately after the fire swept where. Gary stops his Expedition there and swing in behind the through. We thought we had hikers and races toward the bicycle. I follow waiting patrol vehicle. Go Angie, I trapped on the trail and they were and we literally throw the bike into whisper. Then out loud, “Go sure they were looking for fatalities. the back of his vehicle. I jump back Angie!” But she’s already gone, Fortunately, the hikers did turn back in the passenger seat of the patrol car streaking downhill from the fire zone or they would certainly have died on and Angie follows Gary around the emerging soon into the daylight cool the trail that got nuked in less than swirling arc of the Loop. As Gary of the highway near the West Tun- two hours. had reported to us, there are two cars nel. And as I accelerate away from left at the upper and lower parking (Michael J. Ober is a Glacier Park heat and fire, I glance out of the lots, but they both appear to be Ranger based at the Lake McDonald window to see two of the porta- locked and there is clearly no time to Ranger Station) attempt to save them, no time to linger. The Trapper is really blowing up around us. As we speed by the second car, a Chevy Tahoe with Idaho plates, it strikes Angie and me at the same moment, “Oh, no! That’s Chris Baker’s car.” She’s one of our own. Our Swiftcurrent lookout. I get on the radio and call her and explain, “Chris, I need to know exactly where your keys are…there won’t be much time.” She knows what I mean and describes the secret hiding place. Angie already has the patrol car turned around and is heading back to the Loop. When we arrive at the lower parking lot, I spring from the A stark air-conditioned car into the heat landscape greets again and tell Angie to get turned Joe Haugestuen downhill in preparation for a quick of Shelby, exit. Montana at the Chris’ Tahoe is facing uphill and Loop in late alongside a burning hillside with September. flames just three feet from her rear (Rolf Larson bumper. I try to steady myself by Photo)

8 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail Reconnoitering in the Smoke: A Many Glacier Ranger’s View by Bob Adams Dave and I placed ourselves on the high And she was right. Rachel knows rocks above and just west of Redrock wildland fire behavior. We knew there was trouble ahead. The Lake. There we watched. Soot, smoke, sky was dark. Swiftcurrent Pass and Later that night, several of us were on wind, anxiety. Waiting. Dave, an Swiftcurrent Peak were both obscured. “Sheep Curve” just downroad from the accomplished ornithologist, allowed Wilbur was seen but dimly. Darkness at Many Glacier Hotel junction. We were that the wind was ramped up enough to noon. watching the fire spotting into see goats fly. Hmmm. Maybe we ought Swiftcurrent Pass as well as burning up By late July, we had been getting used to to fly... back to Many. toward Chris Baker at the lookout. “two packs a day” for particulate. But There was no way for us to see what was Would it drop into the head of the on the afternoon of July 23, charred dropping into the valley ahead of us. A valley? At least we could see without pine bark larger than a Texas license visually impenetrable wall of smoke was the afternoon’s pall of smoke. Al- plate came pinwheeling down into the about 3/4 mile ahead. We still couldn’t though no fire entered our valley, we all Many Glacier parking lot, followed by see the divide or Chris Baker. Radio evacuated MG in the morning. No burned out sticks larger than your contact with Chris established that she prompting was necessary. thumb’s diameter. could see nothing on our side of the Some further reflections: I remember Chris Baker, the Swiftcurrent lookout, pass, either. Helicopters could see these details, these feelings. Trying to just three and one-half miles west of us, nothing, due to smoke. find drivers for three cars and having had zero visibility. From the Many There was concern whether fire was only two family drivers available. Glacier Ranger Station, we had, at most, spotting into the adjacent Iceberg Getting to St. Mary and not being able one and one-half miles of sight. cirque, north of Wilbur. No “visual” to find a toothbrush or underwear for Where’s the fire? The wind was steady from the helo there, either. Your several days despite having dumped at 20-25 mph, gusting to 40 out of the seasonal rangers decided to bail. We everything out of those cars in the style west. From the darkened pass. had no more info than when we of a giant garage sale. The generosity of No one at MG could get any definite started. Just more apprehension, and Paul Downey, Eastside Backcountry word about our situation. So Ranger day’s end deepening the gloom. Supervisor and director of homeless Naturalist Dave Benson and I decided, shelter operations for Bob Adams, Back at Many Glacier Ranger Station, “We’d better find out.” In an effort to Abigail Adams, Clay Rubano and seasonal law enforcement ranger Paul determine if the fire were spotting into Rachel Jenkins. All of us checking in at Unterbrinck was advising the gathered the St. Mary Visitor Center for post- evac instructions.and wondering if we’d But on the afternoon of July 23, charred pine bark ever see our “homes” again as we had left them. 12-hour shifts for days on larger than a Texas license plate came pinwheeling end, punctuated by “free lunch” on the down into the Many Glacier parking lot, followed by Park’s tab. Good food. Little sleep. burned out sticks larger than your thumb’s diameter. Returning to Many Glacier days later — untouched but for the trail crew “brush hogs” and chain saws. Many Glacier as a shorn poodle. “Best of Show,” the Swiftcurrent Valley, we set out on community of an impending evacua- however, was returning to an intact, foot with radios (but no fire shelters). tion. My Bear Management partner uncharred Many Glacier! We hiked up toward Redrock Lake to Rachel Jenkins was chewing me out for get a vantage point to give early warning reckless, unthinking behavior. “Well,” (Bob Adams has worked as a seasonal to the station, should the fire actually be said I, “we could have run down into ranger naturalist at Many Glacier for 29 bearing down on us all. Redrock Lake.” “Yeah, right, Bob!” years)

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 9 Facing the Fire with a Broken Pump: A View from Granite Park Chalet By Christopher Burke Lookout directly above the Chalet, we floor as well as increasing winds and my were reassured that we were only experi- doubts as to it being “drift smoke”. My name is Christopher Burke. I am a encing drift smoke from the main body of NPS employee assigned to Granite Park the fire. It was around 4 pm that we Mike headed for the Chalet to open the Chalet in the backcountry of Glacier discovered that part of the pump and hose valves on the water tank and prepare the National Park. During the summer of system was malfunctioning. The reservoir upper pump for the fire we felt was 2003 I spent my 20th season in the Park, pump had seized and was failing to imminent. I changed out the broken which proved to be a summer of massive replenish our holding tank at the Chalet, pump below in the reservoir, but found fire activity. which was crucial to our suppression the connections were somewhat incom- patible. Instead of spinning the pipe On the morning of July 23rd, Granite efforts. Upon discovery, Mike and I coupling onto the pump, I had to spin the Park Chalet was ordered to shut down the realized we were in trouble; the water pump onto the coupling. The pump Loop Trail due to the proximity of the supply available to protect the Chalet was weighs 70 pounds, but my adrenaline was Trapper Fire which had been burning for decreased by over three-quarters without really going. At this point there was several days after having made a spectacu- the full operation of the pump system. intense orange glow below and the wind lar run two days previous from approxi- We immediately informed the fire cache was knocking me around. I connected mately 400 acres to 4000 acres. While of this problem and decided to take the the pump to the system, fueled up, and several trails were closed in the area, pump set up to protect the nearby trails running, sending water to the Chalet Granite Park Chalet and campground cabin and reconfigure it with our system holding tank. I attempted to inform remained open to guests, with over 30 to provide protection for the Chalet. Mike via radio but the radio traffic park- guests scheduled to stay that night. Park By around 5:30 visibility was severely wide kept interfering with my calls. I was rangers hiked in that morning to sweep decreased by heavy smoke. I had been in heading towards the Chalet when the the trail down to the Loop, but I felt it contact with Chris Baker at Swiftcurrent smoke became so thick I could not see the was necessary to send one of them on the Lookout and her visibility was nearly trail and was knocked down by the heavy Highline out to Logan Pass to send any completely diminished, but again, she winds. I stumbled on all fours through a hikers that planned to exit at the Loop passed on reassurance from the fire cache bad section of trail, thinking of my that day, back to Logan Pass. that we were experiencing drift smoke. I training, drop everything and run. described the heavy black smoke and jet A Park Service Trail Crew had come in Continued on page 31. and helped set up a structural protection engine noise below me towards the valley hose and pump system on the 21st of July. This would send water from our spring fed reservoir ( 3000-4000 gal capacity) one quarter of a mile away to the 3000 gal. water tank placed just above the chalet, in case of need. My co-worker, Mike Sanger, of Belt, Montana hiked in the morning of the 23rd to relieve me of my normal duties, but due to the nature of the fire situation and my knowledge of the pump and hose system in place, I was asked to stay on-site. We had been warned of a wind shift that afternoon and proceeded to wet down the Chalet complex and surrounding vegetation. At about 3 pm the fire activity was increasing and heavy smoke headed our way, decreasing visibility, accompanied by Trail crew deploying hose at Granite Park Chalet on July 21.. (John increasing winds. After contacting the fire Hagen Photo) cache in West Glacier and Swiftcurrent

10 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail Evacuating the Lodges: A General Manager’s Diary By Cindy Ognjanov July 24 – 5:30AM July 24 – 9:30AM July 23 – 10:00PM We arrive and everyone knows where to Same meeting at Swiftcurrent. Every- go and what to do. I go to the front one is leaving – as we leave Swift we can The phone is ringing – must be an desk at Many and try to help with the see the fire in the Pass. I am very emergency; otherwise they wouldn’t be checkout that is already in progress. pleased we have gotten everyone out calling me this late. It’s Colin Burrows, The warehouse trucks have backed to safely. the manager at Many Glacier. He says, the kitchen and the crews are loading all “There’s a ranger in the lobby telling July 24 – 11:00AM of the perishable food from the walk-ins everyone we are under a voluntary and freezers. The gift shop crew is My cell phone has a message on it, so I evacuation order.” I tell him I’ll find methodically putting all the t-shirts and stop on the top of a hill on my way back out what’s going on and call him back. stuffed animals into plastic bags and to East and call my office. Unbelievable I hang up, and before I can dial the removing all of the high cost jewelry, — the Robert Fire on the west side has phone is ringing again. This time it’s statues and pottery – as soon as they are exploded. We have until 3:00 this Clint Davis from Swiftcurrent telling done loading the food we will put all afternoon to evacuate Village Inn and the same story. this in the truck as well. The mainte- Lake McDonald Lodge. I hang up and call the East Side District nance guys have been asked to take July 24 – 11:45AM Ranger. Sure enough, the Trapper down all of the paintings; they are going Creek Fire has come across Swiftcurrent too. I have notified everyone about what is Pass. If it decides to run … well, July 24 – 6:30AM happening on the west side. We unload anything could happen. I call Colin one of the warehouse trucks, grab three and Clint back and tell them to notify I go to Swiftcurrent. The exact same more vans and off we go to Lake each guest individually that there is no process is happening there. These two McDonald. Thank goodness for cell immediate danger, but you never know. groups of people are a very efficient phones. While my husband is driving, I A handful of guests decide to leave. team. am on the phone trying to find out exactly what is happening. No one July 23 – 11:00PM July 24 – 8:00AM seems to know too much – only that After numerous phone calls between my I go to the Ranger Station to receive an there are fires out of control and on the hotel managers and the Park Service, I update on the status of the fire. It’s not move. call each of my Division Directors and good. It is still moving, albeit slowly, July 24 – 1:30PM tell them to come to my house immedi- but with these hot dry conditions they ately for a meeting. Within ten minutes keep saying anything could happen. I I arrive at Village Inn. Thank heaven they are all there. While sitting around heard references to Heavens Peak – Lynn seems to have everything under the dining room table we formulate an scary! control. I leave her to finish and go to evacuation plan. Lake McDonald Lodge. When I arrive July 24 – 9:00AM there most of the guests are gone and all July 24 – 1:00AM All of the guests at Many and Swift have of the employees have started to pack. I try to get a couple hours sleep. We gone. I have called an all-employee All of the Directors start loading the will all meet at 4:00 AM so that we can meeting at Many. I give them the latest truck with all of the food, retail items be at Many and Swift by daylight. I call report on the fire and ask them to please and paintings. I call another all- both hotel managers and tell them to do go to their rooms and pack their employee meeting. complimentary continental breakfasts in belongings, then proceed immediately July 24 – 2:30PM the lobby in the morning and be to East Glacier. I give them a time prepared to evacuate. deadline to report to East. I know if we I ask all of the Lake employees to do the lose them now we might never get them same procedure as I asked of the Many July 24 – 4:00AM back. We insist they sign out when they and Swift folks. Even as I am talking to Two warehouse trucks, four vans, a leave the room and then sign back in them, I am asking myself where in the pickup truck and two cars head for the when they get to East. My HR team is world we are going to put all these Many Glacier Valley. waiting for them in the Moccasin Room people. at East. The Inside Trail Fall 2003 11 July 24 – 3:30PM daily meetings to answer questions and What a gut wrenching time this was. As keep everyone informed. We had a big the Park Service was installing sprinklers We are past our deadline but are not outdoor party and bar-b-que on the on the roofs of the cabins and all around quite done – we have a couple more front lawn at East Glacier. We did the perimeter of the Lodge, it looked as buses of employees to load. We also everything we could to keep them if we might not get open again this have five red buses with no drivers and happy and occupied. I knew we would summer. Once again, I called another we can’t find the keys. A bit of panic get to reopen soon and I didn’t want to all-employee meeting. This time I had sets in but we find the keys (in the lose them. Sure enough, two days later to tell them that choices had to be trunk of my car). We split up so that we were able to go back to Many and made. Anyone who wanted to work we have enough drivers and by 4:00PM Swift and we did so without losing a could go to one of the other hotels. It we are leaving Lake McDonald. As we single employee. For them it became a was a difficult time to say the least. leave ash is falling like snow. Once really nice break in the middle of the again I say a little prayer of thanks When we reopened Lake and Village ten season. knowing that everyone has gotten away days later we did so with 1/3 the normal safely. The Lake McDonald and Village Inn staff. Many of the young people folks weren’t as lucky. It took twelve decided to stay where they were rather July 24 – 6:00PM days before we could reopen, but were than go back and take the chance of We have arrived back at East Glacier we ever happy when we were able to do another evacuation. It was okay. The and what a sight – there are employees so. For all the employees it was like heavy smoke kept occupancy at an all everywhere. The cafeteria is overflow- going “home”. Unfortunately, five days time low for the next four weeks so we ing, but what a beautiful spread the later the Robert Fire burned its way the managed with our small group of chefs have put out for all of these “fire entire length of the lake in a matter of a employees – God bless them all! refugees”. The HR gals have done an few hours and we started the evacuation (Cindy Ognjanov is President and General amazing job of finding space for process all over again. Manager of Glacier Park, Inc.) everyone to sleep. The Moccasin Room is fast filling up with mattresses. A tent city has sprung up over by the Jammer Dorm. The back lawn has its share of sleeping bags. Unbelievably, every single employee showed up and now they are all anxious to know what is going on. July 24 – 7:00PM One more all-employee meeting. There are probably 500 people at this meeting. I report what I know (which isn’t much) and then answer many, many questions. July 24 – 10:00PM Grinnell Point, I am finally at home and can’t believe brooding above what has happened today. I am sure that never before have four hotels (on Many Glacier two sides of the Park) had to be evacu- Hotel, is ated in the same day because of two threatened by different forest fires. the smoke of the Trapper Fire. Over the next few days emotions were (John Hagen running high. It took the Park Service a few days to put together their fire team Photo) and information was a bit tough to come by. Nevertheless, we had twice

12 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail The Evacuation of the McDonald Valley: A Homeowner’s View by Mary Grace Severson Galvin bors, Mark and Linda Kuhr, were home who were displaced by the just leaving also, and they graciously fires. On July 24, a Glacier Park ranger shared some room in their bigger came knocking on the door of our On July 27, we were thrilled to have vehicle. Then we drove away to inholder’s cabin just north of Lake the evacuation order lifted. We refuge in our home in Kalispell. McDonald Lodge. We were told found sprinklers pouring water over that the valley was being evacuated. Two hours later, Jim and our son-in- our cabin. Glacier’s Superintendent The Robert Fire was threatening law returned from their hike to find Mick Holm had instructed district West Glacier and the western en- the road blocked at West Glacier. A ranger Charlie Logan to sprinkle the trance to Going-to-the-Sun Road. ranger told them that we had evacu- inholders’ homes. We were deeply ated safely. Jim called with his cell grateful. When the ranger came, I was at the phone to make sure that we had the cabin with my daughter and two Two weeks later, on August 10, the dog. He described the scene beyond grandchildren. My husband Jim and Robert Fire blew up again. That the gate as “very, very scary – just my son-in-law were away on a hike night we were in bed when the black and red.” in another part of the Park. The evacuation order arrived with a evacuation order was mandatory and While we were in Kalispell, we knocking at our door. With no time urgent, however, and we had to leave volunteered at Flathead County’s to spare, we grabbed what we could the valley without them. Emergency Coordination Center. and flew down the road. To our There, the United Way provided horror, we could see the fire raging We filled our small car with as many evacuees with food and shelter. We down Howe Ridge toward our end keepsakes as we could pack in it – were glad to be able to help some of of the lake. In some locations, the not many, since we had to transport the hundreds of travelers far from fire was cascading down the ridge four people and a dog. Our neigh-

The Robert Fire boils along Howe Ridge in mid-August. (Lois Ann Smith Photo)

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 13 A Homeowner’s View continued wiping out every tree in its path, white out. Later they obtained a “season ending event,” decisively with the lake the only reason it was compass, so that they could make slowed the advance of the fire. stopped. the trip without getting lost. We unwrapped our boat from the Kelly’s Camp, across the lake from By early September, the fire had space blankets it had been bundled us, was greatly at risk. The fire burned down to Trout Lake and all into since the fires had started, and fighters did burnouts there to save around the west flank of Mt. charged up the lake to see the big the camp. More burnouts stabilized Stanton. The fear was that it would burn near Apgar. It was a devastat- the fire. Deo Gratias! On August climb between Stanton and Mt. ing sight. It looked like a war zone. 16, Jim and I were able to return to Vaught, and then sweep down across Miles of destroyed forest ran right our cabin to stay. Needless to say, the Going-to-the-Sun Road. On down to the lake. It was the saddest we did not bring back any of the September 8, however, the miracle boat trip we have ever taken. After treasures we had removed in the that we had all been praying for that we pulled our boat out of the evacuation.... only food and my lap arrived in the form of RAIN. We lake and stored it for the winter. top. had about five hours of steady That was truly a “season ending showers and accumulated 3/4 of an event”! Join us in sending up prayers At that point, only the cabins right inch. It doesn’t sound like much, of thanksgiving for the timely rain. around the Lodge were safe to but it had me dancing barefoot in inhabit. Things were still too (Mary Grace Galvin is Vice President the grass! The rain, though not a spooky to allow the folks at the head of the Glacier Natural History Associa- of the lake or at Kelly’s Camp to tion) return. It was very smoky, and we did not go outside any more than we had to. The DeSmet had been hired to carry firemen to Kelly’s Camp each day. On the first day, the The DeSmet (the launch on the smoke on the lake was so thick that the DeSmet lake) had been hired to carry firemen to Kelly’s Camp each day. On the got lost in a white out. first day, the smoke on the lake was so thick that the DeSmet got lost in a

Photo taken of the DeSmet during the Robert Fire. (Lois Ann Smith Photo)

14 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail The Evacuation of the Fish Creek Campground: A Ranger Family’s Perspective by Zig Steele started to drift home, the thought on was decided that I would collect each everybody’s mind was “What will camper’s checkout stub and give it to This is an account of the Robert Fire tomorrow bring?” We spent one very Lynn, who would put them in numeri- and the ensuing Fish Creek Camp- smoke-filled night in the Fish Creek cal order. Lynn would give the stubs to ground evacuation as it involved the Campground, and that next morning, my daughter, Maggie, who would then Steele family. My wife Harry (Harriet) events began to quickly unfold. color-code them on a campground map. Steele is the campground supervisor. The evacuation proceeded as planned, Our fourteen-year-old daughter Maggie As Harry rushed into her uniform, we with the campers checking out in and I also live at the Fish Creek Ranger hastily discussed the evacuation - who, “orderly” fashion and asking the predict- Station. what, when, and how. The existing able questions regarding available evacuation plan in the Standard Operat- Thursday, July 24, was Harry’s day off. camping elsewhere in the park. ing Procedures manual was created to With the temperatures expected to be handle the evacuation of Fish Creek Being totally focused on the job at hand over 100 degrees again, the family was campground only. The possibility of a while trying to remain calm, w e hadn’t making a beeline for Hungry Horse complete evacuation of the entire noticed that the wind had picked up, Reservoir for a day of fun and sun in the McDonald Valley was never envisioned. the smoke and ~isibility had worsened, water. Just as we were about to leave the A new plan had to be improvised on the and the temperature was hotter. ranger station, Dave Duncan, one of the spot to accommodate an event of this Coinadentally (or maybe not), the law morning rangers on duty, knocked on magnitude. As supervisor of Fish Creek, enforcement ranger made his second our door and advised Harry to get in it was Harry’s responsibility to take visit to Fish Creek with a whole differ- her uniform because Fish Creek was control of the situation. Arriving at the ent demeanor. “Urgency” and “immedi- being evacuated. kiosk, she began talking strategies with Continued on page 31. We weren’t completely surprised, her two rangers, Dave Duncan and Jim because the night before many park Quinlan. A law enforce- employees had congregated at the ment ranger arrived with “watering hole” in West Glacier to mull notices to be handed out the situation over. It was a consensus to the campers stating that this was serious and that the that an “orderly” evacua- “Blankenship Fire” (as we called it tion was underway. Jim before it became known as the Robert and Dave were deployed Fire) was going to have a major impact to the four loops to on Glacier. Somebody had mounted a notify campers of the map on the wall in Freda’s showing the evacuation and empha- progress of the fire. For most of us, it size that it was to be was a carnival-like atmosphere, a chance orderly. to share concerns, swap stories, and Back at the kiosk, Lynn speculate on what might be, without Thueson, the being in any “real,” imminent danger. mid-morning ranger, had The only ones not in a festive mood arrived to go on shift. It were the local merchants, who, while Lingering under the blanket of smoke that had smoke conceals engulfed West Glacier, quickly sized up the situation and realized that the the far shoreline summer might be shot and that it very from Fish Creek well could be a long, cold winter. As Campground. the evening drew to an end and people (Rolf Larson Photo)

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 15 Views from the Sun Road by Karen Heller We drove back through westbound on turned out to be over the west shore of Sunday the 10th (the day the Robert Fire Lake McDonald. Late that evening they Another former Glacier employee, ran up Lake McDonald). It was hot, evacuated Lake McDonald Lodge by Melissa Jacoby Rickert, and I drove up dry, and very windy. We could see the just turning out all the guests to their to Glacier on August 6. Sun Road was fires all kicking up and lots of open cars! open, but we had to be across Logan flames visible west and south of the Pass by 6 PM. No stopping was allowed I heard later from some Lake McDonald Loop. As we passed Lake McDonald, between Avalanche and about the Lodge employees that they were sitting the fire across the lake was sending up Haystack Creek area. The area west of on the shore watching the fire across the huge plumes of smoke. It was clearly the Loop was totally blackened. The lake as it turned dark. They were trying out of control, and we couldn’t believe Loop Trail entrance is burnt out, and I to see who could catch the biggest piece that they still had the road open. It was hear that the bridge is gone there. I also of ash falling out of the cloud of smoke very crowded, and we figured all the heard that the porta-potties melted and over them. Then some burning pieces locals were up to check out the blazes. had to be cleaned up and hauled away. three feet long with branches on them All the side areas were roped off. Fire The smoke was bad in West Glacier, starting landing a few feet from them, had gone across pretty close to the point and we went into Columbia Falls, where and they became concerned! They were of the Loop, and trees were scorched it got worse from fires southwest of evacuated very quickly after that. back about as far as the parking area. Kalispell. We stayed at Lake Five and (Karen Heller was the nurse at Many Lots of smoking areas were visible. watched a huge cumulus-type smoke Glacier Hotel in 1970-71 and in 2000- cloud form northeast of there, which 2001) Fire Signs in West Glacier by Lois Ann Smith a half away, blew up and moved quickly in our direction. My summer home is in West Glacier. That meant that this summer I had a I went off to stay at the home of a front row seat for the Robert Fire, which daughter in Kalispell. In a week the at times seemed to be in my back yard! evacuation was lifted, and we were all My car had already been packed with Each evening the Incident Command back and businesses opened up. But the the important and needed things. As I Team held a Fire Information Meeting rest of the summer was to be a smoke- left my little log cabin, I was greatly at the local school to bring us all the filled marathon of lightning strikes and comforted by the two fire engines, a current data: weather predictions, fire subsequent fires in and around us in water “pumpkin” and several volunteer progress, evacuation possibilities, etc. every direction! fire fighters who had taken their There were maps and printouts for all position directly across the street from For six weeks, signs of fire were every- and patient and complete answers to all my home! Their duty was to watch over where around Glacier – the haze and questions (no matter how stupid or the houses on Glacier Avenue in case smell of smoke in the air, the sun repetitive!). the fire, burning then about a mile and looking like an eerie red orb in the sky, One night the final announcement was, “When the siren blows three times, with 30 second intervals, you will know an evacuation has been ordered.” We had “When the siren blows three times, with 30 been forewarned to gather our impor- tant papers, precious pictures, and some second intervals, you will know an personal items, and “be ready.” Late the evacuation has been ordered.” next afternoon, the siren blew, and within an hour, I was “out of there.”

16 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail white plumes rising ever higher, men were thank-yous to the courageous, fence-posts – even the blackened burned and women in yellow shirts and hard hard-working fire fighters. Their tireless areas were transformed. The “fire- hats, helicopters dragging buckets for efforts in record-breaking heat and far season ending event” had come during dipping water, fire engines in unex- from ideal living and working condi- the night before. Four to six inches of pected places, busses and vans full of tions helped save our precious Glacier snow had fallen! Unusual for Septem- guys and girls with tired, sooty faces. Park from near disaster. ber, but HOW WELCOME! But there were other signs that caught The good news came on September 17th (Lois Ann Smith worked at Lake my interest in and around the west side as I boarded the Amtrak train for St. McDonald Lodge in 1946 and at Fish of the Park, and they, too, tell the fire Paul. We traveled along the south edge Creek Campground from 1952-64) story. of the Park through a Christmas card There were warnings and closures, fairyland of snow-covered trees, bushes, information and directions, and fire sales. The signs I liked best, however,

Efforts were Appreciated!

Photos for collage courtesy of Lois Ann Smith.

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 17 An Incident Commander’s View by Steve Frye I experienced the entire event vicari- fuels, weather, and topography that effect ously, it provided a renewed apprecia- fire behavior or the relationships between The 2003 wildfire season presented a tion and understanding for the very agencies, communities, individuals, and unique and very personal perspective on personal and emotional effect that Incident Management Teams that really the less prominent, more obscure effects threats from natural emergencies, events determines how the fire will be fought of large, complex fire management that in large measure are completely and in the end how communities and operations. As one of 16 National outside of all but the smallest amount individuals will be cared for. Incident Commanders charged with of human control, produce. As an managing large complex wildland fires The Incident Management Teams, Incident Commander I was reminded whereever they occur in the United communities, and individuals assigned of how crucial it is to recognize and States, I was assigned, along with my to or affected by the fires in and around acknowledge the intensely personal Incident Management Team, to a Glacier this past summer have every impact caused by large natural “disas- complex of fires in the Bitterroot, reason to be very proud of themselves ters” and how important it is to take Beaverhead-Deerlodge, and Salmon individually, but most importantly they whatever action is possible and feasible Challis National Forests, while the Robert should be proud of the way they came to alleviate that angst. Fire in Northwest Montana threatened together to help each other when con- my own home, in West Glacier. The most enduring memories of my fire fronted by the most significant fire season fighting career are of the people that I in Northwest Montana since 1910. For the first time in a wildland fire have had the opportunity to work with career that has spanned more than 30 This past summer reminded all of us and for and of the individuals and years I found myself, actually my family once again, that regardless of our communities that I have seen drawn and my home, in a situation that I had technical skill, the number and type of together by shared risk and the selfless agonized and empathized with others resources we commit to the fight, and/ commitment of neighbors helping through as an Incident Commander or the ability of those resources, that in neighbors and communities helping charged with keeping them and their a fire dependent ecosystem … Mother communities. At the end of the day this homes safe from a large fire. And… I Nature always bats last. business is all about relationships — was experiencing the worry, concern, whether it’s the relationships among (Steve Frye is Chief Ranger of Glacier and uncertainty from more than 200 National Park) miles away while making every effort to keep the fire we were assigned to from entering a small Idaho town and many The Role of An Incident Commander scattered rural residences. by Beth Blacker was when Incident Commander Joe Stam detailed the plan to burn out the This juxtaposition of circumstances Reflecting on the forest fires of last south side of Apgar Mountain and the created a host of enduring memories: summer brings many thoughts to mind east side of the Camas Road in an effort among them, the incredible support and but by far the strongest memory I have to save the communities of West Glacier, was watching the Type I incident Apgar and Lake McDonald. accomplishment that is possible when commanders competently handle the neighbors come together to help many facets of their demanding jobs. Of After listening to the strategies developed neighbors in a time of need, the unfail- course, I have a biased interest in ICs. by the team to direct the fires away from ing commitment and expertise that For nine months out the year I live with the communities, I honestly believe I was Steve Frye, one of the best ICs in the more worried about the stress I saw on Incident Management Teams demon- nation. The other three months of the Joe’s face as he was leaving the meeting strate when confronted with extraordi- year he travels, as do other Incident than about the fate of our new house narily dangerous and complex chal- Commanders, with their team of located at the base of Apgar Mountain. In lenges, the surprising number of things specialists, from fire to fire until winter Joe, I could see Steve calmly assuring a that, as a homeowner…and fire man- settles in to our parched forests. community of their safety, while privately running dozens of scenarios through his ager, I should have done but hadn’t The relative calm presented by Incident mind. The burnout of Apgar Mountain quite gotten around to, and most Commanders at daily community was successful and awesome to witness. importantly the unbelievable energy, meetings is nothing short of miraculous The IC was right — but I never doubted considering the stress involved in that for a minute! tenacity, patience, and resourcefulness managing a raging inferno. I attended that my wife unwaveringly exhibited many community meetings during the (Beth Blacker is a Budget Analyst for throughout the entire ordeal. summer of 2003. The most memorable Glacier National Park)

18 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail A Student’s View by Megan Frye I can honestly say that I was not tions. How exciting was it that we were expecting the rumor of evacuation to being sent away from our homes? How As a high school student, I found the come true. Of course, my friends and I many teenagers get to live through this? entire fire situation a great learning had been discussing how awesome it But once the reality hit, I ended up experience. It will be fun to look back would be to be told to leave our homes. living with knots in my stomach for the on this summer and think that I was We spent hours discussing what we week we were displaced. part of something historic. would bring along and what would It’s always exciting for me to look back When the evacuation order came on happen if our homes were lost. We were on the summer events and remember all July 27, I was shocked. We were on a thrilled to think that something exciting the different emotions. I believe that voluntary evacuation order (with might actually happen in our same fire is extremely interesting and al- rumors of a mandatory evacuation town. However, when the signal (3 though dangerous, it is a fabulous show. coming) for several day,s and I was sirens) came for evacuation, we were When the time came for me to return to looking forward to something exciting dumbfounded. Columbia Falls High School, we were happening. We received a call at about Of course, I called my best friend, asked, in English, to write a descriptive 6:00 p.m. from a local friend informing Danielle, and we had our moment of paragraph about our summer. I am us that a mandatory evacuation order panic and excitement. There wasn’t happy to report that mine was the most was being discussed. It was almost like much that could be said though; a exciting! a surprise birthday party. single “Keep in touch, OK?” was all we (Megan Frye is the daughter of Steve Frye had to say. I was full of mixed emo- and Beth Blacker)

The aftermath of the Robert fire in late September is a souvenir mosaic of burn scars along the West slope of Apgar Mountain. (Rolf Larson Photo)

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 19 A View from Park Headquarters

by Tony Clark been altered by the fires; giving them new vacation alternatives in the I didn’t know what to expect when I park and at times trying to re-instill arrived at Glacier National Park the excitement of their vacation. at the end of May. I’d never worked for the Park Service and I’d never By mid-September the smoke that been had shrouded the park was gone and in public affairs. This summer was the air was cool and crisp. I drove the going to be a whole new adventure length of the Sun Road that day and for me — and what an adventure it before the it was clear to see why everyone had was. Fourth. worked so hard during the fires. The answer was stretched out before me ; Early on, my boss Amy Vanderbilt I’ll remember the fires, not so much for the beauty and wonder that is pointed up to snow on one of the the long hours, smoky air Glacier National Park. mountains and said folks say that and moving from hotel to hotel during snow is a gauge for the fire season. If the evacuation, but for people I had (Tony Clark is Public Affairs Assistant the snow is still there on the Fourth the great fortune to work with each day. for Glacier National Park) of July, it will be a mild fire I was allowed to sit in on management season. If it is gone before the sessions during the fires and to Fourth — well, it was gone long see first hand the skill and professional- ism of the park staff, as well as the understanding and generosity of people in the surrounding communi- ties. I will long remember talking with visitors whose vacation plans had

A helicopter hauls a water bucket past Swiftcurrent Lookout to fight the Trapper Fire. (Christine Baker photo)

20 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail On the Trail with DAVID PAULUS:

A Memorial

David Paulus on the summit of Mt. Siyeh (photo by Kathy Stapleton Renno)

avid Paulus, one of the most talented employee enormous verve and energy. Ian Tippet, a connoisseur musicians to work at Many Glacier Hotel in of piano music, would often pay tribute to “Mr. Paulus, D the Ian Tippet era, died in June, 2003. David with his marvelous glissandos!” was stricken with congestive heart failure while playing Not all musicians are avid hikers. David, however, was a piano professionally on a Caribbean cruise ship. He was rugged and enthusiastic outdoorsman. He went on 51 years old. dozens of expeditions over Glacier’s trails and peaks, David worked at Many Glacier from 1970 to 1973, as a once covering 50 miles in a day. He characteristically busboy and later as a waiter in the Ptarmigan Dining wore a blue shirt, scarlet knee socks, and the heavy Room. He played piano brilliantly for nightly perfor- “waffle stomper” hiking boots which were standard mances by the dining room choir, for Thursday Ser- equipment in the ‘70s. enades in the lobby, and for Sunday evening concerts. David practiced law in Chicago for 20 years, and then David had striking versatility as a pianist. Friends will returned to his first love of playing piano professionally. remember him in two poses – as a polished classical He remained very close to his mother Patte and brothers artist, and as a player of informal show tunes and Terry and Stephen (a noted classical composer) and to ragtimes, leaning back on the piano bench with one foot their families. His passing is mourned by many friends cocked over his knee. In either role, he played with from his days in Glacier, some of whom contributed the following stories.

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 21 The Saturday Hiking Club By Joyce Daugaard (Many Glacier hike was too long or too arduous. In bers of the SHC crammed into the Hotel 1970-73) the words of our dorm matron back seat, the driveshaft was scraping the Blackfeet Highway. Dave and My fondest memories of Dave Thelma Thompson, we were “hiking John chivalrously volunteered to Paulus revolve around the summer fools”, also known as “bear bait”. hitch another ride. of l973. It was an idyllic summer, With thanks to John Hagen for his filled with music, hikes, and the journals and Kathy Stapleton for her (2) We were attacked by swarms of privilege that comes from being a slide show, here are some highlights: mosquitoes en route to Triple Divide park veteran. For the dining room (1) While Dave, Becky, Kathy and Pass in the Red Eagle Valley. For staff, Dave’s rendition of Scott John climbed Mt. Siyeh, Joyce wrote over an hour, our conversation Joplin’s Maple Leaf Rag would letters for five hours on Siyeh Pass. consisted entirely of instructions to summon us to the piano to sing. If She was chilled a bit by the cool the preceding hiker in line for we were lucky, there was a dessert or breeze on the 8,080 ft. pass, and was swatting mosquitoes: “Left thigh! two to scavenge behind the piano. pleased when the others finally came Inside right knee!” On the pass, we Grasshopper pie was a favorite. down. There was lots of snow on the encountered a cold rainy wind. The Dining room remembrances could trail descending past Sexton Glacier women changed from shorts into fill a volume. (it was June 30th), and we skied long pants while attempting to maintain some modesty under wildly More importantly, however, Dave much of the way down. flapping ponchos. was a founding member of the We caught a ride to St. Mary, and Saturday Hiking Club. It was an had a hearty dinner at Johnson’s (3) Our most spectacular hike was exclusive group of five: Kathy Cafe. A generous family offered to to Boulder Pass. We took the launch Stapleton, Becky Oehlerking, John give us all a ride back to Many International to Goat Haunt, hiked Hagen, Dave Paulus, and me. No Glacier. However, with five mem- six miles to Lake Frances, and

The Saturday Hiking Club boarding the launch International en route to Boulder Pass (Front: David Paulus, Jim Erickson, John Hagen; Back: Lynn Wallace, Becky Oehlerking, Melinda Bourne, Joyce Daugaard, Kathy Stapleton) (photo by Kathy Stapleton Renno)

22 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail dropped our packs in the camp- koala. We were aghast, and scolded around the mountainous curves on ground there. Then we trekked nine them for having jeopardized us all. Highway 2 at 80 mph, apologizing miles up the steep trail to Brown to us for going too SLOWLY (“I’d (4) The worst hike in anyone’s Pass and Boulder Pass, enjoying step on it, but the road’s not that memory was Park Creek in the dramatic views of Thunderbird great”). Kathy, in the front seat, southern part of the park. No one Mountain, Bowman Lake, and vigorously assured him that we had ever been there before, and the Kintla Lake on a gorgeous midsum- weren’t in a hurry. Saturday Hiking Club soon found mer day. We returned to Lake out why. It was a solemn trudge (5) We took many other glorious Frances at early evening, ate dinner, through the trees with absolutely no hikes. We climbed over Redgap and went to sleep under the stars to views. As we neared the trailhead on Pass, admired Ruggles of Redgap the lovely murmuring of the water- Highway 2, our spirits lightened. and Old Sun Glacier, and lolled on fall that drops down into the lake. We were almost out! Unfortunately, the shores of Lake Elizabeth watch- Next morning, the first thing that the bridge across the river was out ing the sundrenched waves roll in. we saw upon awakening was a huge and there was an arrow to hike six We slept on the luxurious fine- bag of food suspended from the low more miles. Joyce burst into tears, pebbled beach at Cosley Lake en boughs of a tree about six feet in the but was quickly reassured by Dave route to Stoney Indian Pass and the air and no more than ten feet away. that “it’s not that far”. Waterton Valley. The novices camping in the next After hiking 30-some miles, we It was an ideal group of hiking tent had grasped the principle that endured a frightening hitchhike back companions and an ideal summer. they were supposed to hang their to Many Glacier, crammed into a food in a tree, but otherwise clearly little hatchback with a perfect didn’t know a grizzly bear from a maniac at the wheel. He careened

The Saturday Hiking Club bedded down for the night at Lake Frances. Pictured are Lynne Wallace, Joyce Daugaard, Melinda Bourne, David Paulus, Kathy Stapleton, and John Hagen. (photo by Kathy Stapleton Renno)

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 23 A MACHETE ON THE HIGHLINE

Bill Dickenson, David Paulus and Hank Overturf on the Highline Trail. (Hank Overturf photo)

By Hank Overturf (Many Glacier do the Highline before it was open. We knife seemed rather small in compari- 1970-72) were assembling our gear the night son, but Dave insisted that we brandish before when Dave suggested that we our weapons and look macho. “Men of I was deeply saddened to hear of Dave should take knives just in case we the wilderness!” Paulus’ death this last summer. It is needed them. When we left the next ironic that I was hiking Stoney Indian We laughed, slid across and down morning I strapped on my Buck knife Pass this summer and thought of Dave snowfields, and joked all the way across and met Dave in the hall of the upper and his tremendous skill and musi- the Garden Wall. We obviously sur- dorm. cianship. When I camped for the vived the trip and had an adventure that night I pulled out a bottle of wine and We ran up the valley and nearly ran up still brings back a smile to my face. I a CD player and listened to Chopin to Granite Park. As we gingerly crossed know my life has been much richer for while I pitched my tent and boiled the snowfields of the closed Highline having met Dave and had a chance to water for my dinner of freeze dried. trail we stopped for a picture. It was enjoy his sense of humor and listen to then that I noticed that Dave didn’t his wonderful artistry on the piano. I’ll I recall one trip in June of 1970 when have a knife, but a machete! My Buck miss you, Dave. Dave, another friend and I decided to A Brush with Death on Mount Allen By John D. Hagen, Jr. (Many Glacier memory. In 1970 (our first summer) chasm – and there, incredibly, struck a 1970-80) we bushwhacked to Snow Moon Lake, a little gnarled tree which caught under high alpine tarn on Mt. Allen. Coming my armpit and saved me from going Dave Paulus and I did a great deal of down, we lost our way. We found over the edge. I was able to work my hiking together during the early 1970s. ourselves compelled to cross a steep way to safety while Dave continued He was a very strong hiker, and a great snowfield running down a narrow gully across the snow. That episode had a companion on the trail – determined, which ended above a fearsome cliff. transforming effect on me, impressing adventurous, resourceful, full of confi- me with a sense of the fragility of life dence and good spirits. Halfway across, I lost my footing and and of our dependence on God. went shooting down the snow. Dave, Dave and I took several very long hikes who had been crossing some distance I always have had a special warmth in together. We trekked at night through below me, put out his hand for me to my heart for Dave because of his bear-haunted valleys along the North grab. Had I taken it, my momentum attempt to save my life at the risk of his Circle and the Inside Trail, shouting and would probably have jerked him out of own. It exemplified his generosity of jingling with bells. We also took many his foothold, and we both would almost spirit, as well as his sheer physical shorter hikes and climbs with fellow certainly have gone sliding over the cliff. courage. Dave embodied the spirit of hotel employees. youthful exuberance and high adventure I turned aside to avoid Dave’s grasp, Dave and I had a mutual brush with that made Glacier so unforgettable for shot down the snow to the brink of the death that will always be etched in my us.

24 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail The Summer of ‘42 Happy Days at Lake McDonald Lodge on the Brink of the Second World War

Mr. Green, transport agent at Lake McDonald Lodge. (Oscar Jorstad photo)

By Oscar Jorstad (Lake McDonald Lodge, 1942) In the summer of 1941 I stopped at Lake McDonald Lodge. There were two familiar faces dressed in white standing in front of the hotel. Would you believe two classmates from St. Olaf College? After a few minutes of visiting, I knew in my heart – next year, this place is for me! The following summer I was night clerk at Lake McDonald. Mrs. Barley was the manager of the hotel. Cy Mavickas was the fellow in charge of the business end. Faith Dugan was the greeter at the dining room. Shirley Smith was the early morning lobby maid.

My hours were 10pm to 7am. man give his clock to me each hour Those were perfect hours for hiking to visit four stations inside the lodge in the daytime (the matter of sleep (two on the top floor and two on the came second). My first hike, of bottom level, at each end of the course, was to Sperry Chalet. It was building). Often after hiking, I June 15, and I had to wade through would be sound asleep at the fire- Dave and Ray, two McDonald waist-deep snow to get to the porch. porters, refueling. place, and my friend the watchman (Oscar Jorstad photo) The night watchman at Lake did my stations for me. McDonald made rounds around the One night a message came that a car compound, punching his timeclock had gone off Going-to-the-Sun at various stations. This was re- Road. I awakened Cy Mavickas who quired by the insurance company. had a bedroom next to the night To make sure that I stayed awake, clerk’s office. He gave me the keys the routine required that the watch- to his car, and took my place as I

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 25 drove off to be of help. Fortunately, be the lookout at Mt. Brown. But it was not too serious, and I was after just two weeks, I received a happy to find that a ranger had telegram from my dad to come taken charge. home because Uncle Sam was calling. I was at McDonald throughout the summer of 1942. In 1943, the Park My two children, Janet Jorstad itself was closed for obvious reasons. Edwards and David Jorstad, both My draft number would soon be up, worked at Many Glacier during the but I wanted to go back. The Park 1970s. I have made eleven trips to Service was active at maintaining the Park from 1941 to the present. I trails and fighting fire. I applied for am planning to go back again and Park Service work, and was hired to make it an even dozen!

A fellow Norwegian! Emil Korstad, the gardener (Oscar Jorstad photo) Mrs. Barley, manager of Lake McDonald Lodge (Oscar Jorstad photo)

Looking northward from the girls’ dormitory: The chief engineer’s home, the camp store, and the post office, with Mt. Brown in the background (Oscar Jorstad photo) Mrs. Barley and the dining room staff (Oscar Jorstad photo)

26 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail where I was. There was only one way I Backing out of an Avalanche: could go and I was not about to abandon No. 95. I slipped into reverse, said a Just Between Me and No. 95 prayer that by moving back I would not By Tom I. McFarling (Jammer 1950) about that, but decided that I had set out dislodge or disturb the snow again, and to deadhead over to McDonald and that’s GPT Co. had rules. One was that no new eased back about 5 feet. I was afraid to just exactly what I was going to do. With Jammer could carry passengers over back any further without knowing exactly that, I got into No. 95 and headed out of Logan Pass until he had first dead-headed where the back wheels were so I opened the parking lot going west. over empty. I was at Many Glacier when my door and looked back and down to I was told to deadhead over to Clouds and fog were so thick you could the side of the road. The haze and McDonald. It was a beautiful morning — hardly see anything at all. After a short returning fog and clouds were so dense I sunshine, not too hot, shirt sleeve weather. distance the clouds and fog seemed to couldn’t even see the back of the bus. All I I put the top down on No. 95 before I thin a bit and you could almost see into could do was to look straight down to the left. the valley off to the left. Quite a sight! I side of the road at those two layers of rock stopped, reached for my camera, took a stacked there as a guard rail. At St. Marys I turned into the park and picture and rolled the window back up. went right through the entrance station I thought I could judge where I was on Then I heard it. gate without stopping. I was enjoying the the road by whether those rocks moved trip up, especially because there was It sounded like a freight train right in the away from me or closer to me as I backed. absolutely no traffic either way. About front seat beside me. I feared what it was, I tried it and, soon found that by backing where the Motor Inn is now, it started to held my foot on the brake and waited. All 8 to 10 feet at a time I could judge pretty rain. I got out to put up the top and got a of a sudden, there was the flying, tum- well if the rear wheels were in about the jacket out of the back. Before long, the bling, sliding snowmass right in front. I middle of the road. Strangely, I did not rain turned into snow. Still no traffic honestly thought the force of the slide really have any fear for myself. My whole either way! We had Going-to-the –Sun would cover us up or push us over the thought was “How can I keep No. 95 safe road all to ourselves! side. I do not know how long it took but from being knocked over the side by a finally the snow stopped sliding down and new slide.” Only by trial and error, luck By the time I got to the Logan Pass across. Then silence -- nothing but the and Divine guidance did I manage to parking lot on top, it was a real snow rumble and echo from down below. get No. 95 up that west side of Going storm. I couldn’t see much, but then there To The Sun in reverse! wasn’t much to see - just snow every- The snow covered the road ahead and Continued on page 32. where. According to GPT Co. rule, I was over the front bumper, the radiator and letting No. 95 have its cool-down idle run the hood back to just where when the Ranger came out of his building No. 95’s windshield was. I to inquire what the hell I thought I was didn’t know what to do but I doing. I replied I was deadheading over to knew I did not want to stay McDonald Hotel He said the road had been closed since daylight and he was getting ready to go down himself; but now he was going to try to reach the entrance by radio to make sure they let no one else come up. It seems that late snows had been extra heavy and there was still a very deep snow pack. It had been snowing all night and morning. With fresh snow on top of the old, there was an extreme danger of new snow sliding and even of avalanche. Tom I. McFarling, driver of No. 95, also former When he came back, he said the entrance school teacher and former gate had reported they had not let anyone judge. (Photo courtesy of through all morning! I guess they had not even seen me come through. He sug- author) gested I turn around and he would follow me back down to St. Mary. I thought The Inside Trail Fall 2003 27 A Wrangler’s Memories of Glacier by Robert Wellman started ranching on the Two Medicine The first day of the North Circle Trip, River near Browning. He would call me my guests would assemble at our corrals E.G. Wellman, Dalton Wellman, and I occasionally from Cut Bank to bail him at Many Glacier. I would saddle all the bought and took over the Park Saddle out of jail. One time he said he was in pack and riding horses and manty up all Horse Concession when the Park re- for crossing the street against a red light. their personal packs, groceries, tent, opened after World War II. Noffsingers I replied, “They can’t do that.” He said, dishes, pots and pans, and other had been the previous operators. “Well, I was on my hands and knees.” necessities. Then I’d load the packs on Getting paid to take people packing and the horses, get my guests mounted, and He stayed in the bunkhouse at the fishing was like a paid holiday. There hit the trail. We would go up past ranch and was good help. My boys, were long hours and hard work. I really Ptarmigan Lake and through Ptarmigan about eight and ten years old, knew enjoyed most of the people I met, and Tunnel, coming out on a narrow trail. Blackie had a drinking problem. They hard work is needed if you are to be That trail passed over the sheer 1,000 would go in the bunkhouse, tie his successful at anything. I spent time at foot drop to Lake Elizabeth. shoelaces together, then holler at him to all of our locations in the Park, at times watch him wreck when he jumped up. We would continue down the trail, taking day rides to Sperry Chalet and overnight trips to Granite Park Chalet. It was a pleasure to work with our many I always looked forward to meeting the new people and employees. One of my favorites was sharing the deer, elk, moose, goats, marmots, ground Virgil (Blackie) Dillon, who we em- squirrels, and all the other wildlife, flora, fauna, and ployed at Many Glacier. He was very scenery of Glacier National Park. humorous with a quick wit, and drew a crowd wherever he was. I remember one trip when there was a He loved my children and probably just steadily losing altitude, and set up camp large party, so two of us, Blackie and laughed. When I heard what they were by Lake Elizabeth. Here we could catch myself, took them. We had just gone doing, I told them that was no way to Arctic Grayling, then cook them over a through the Ptarmigan Tunnel to come treat a friend, and they stopped. campfire with potatoes, carrots, and onions. The guests seemed to really like out on a narrow trail looking straight We assisted him in finding a job at this, and for the first couple days we down about 1,000 feet to a shimmering Knott’s Berry Farm in California where would have fresh fruit: pears, peaches, mirror named Lake Elizabeth, reflecting he worked in the wintertime and was apples, and bananas. the land of the big sky. A lady, spooked doing well. The next thing I knew, he by the view, shouted, “Guide, guide, do was gone. I read in the paper that he I would set up our tent every night people fall from here often?” After a had come up in the winter, had fallen because weather can change quickly in long pause, Blackie replied, “No ma’am. down drunk outside a bar, and had the mountains. I would help everyone Just once.” frozen to death. It was a very sad day blow up their air mattresses, and show Blackie spent his winters in Cut Bank, for me, my family, and his many them how to get the rocks and sticks and I lived in East Glacier, until I friends. I still miss him today. out of the area where they would make their bed. It was nice to sleep under the 28 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail stars, but we could retreat to the tent if One time, I had two guests with me In the morning, we would get back on it got too tough outside. fishing on Kootenai Lake where there the International, cross Waterton Lake, was a large bull moose grazing. Moose get off at Goat Haunt, saddle and load I would hang all our groceries up in a put their heads under water and eat up, then go on to Fifty Mountain tree and then sleep under them to keep moss and things on the bottom of the Camp. The name Fifty Mountain came bears from getting our supplies. In the lake, then lift their heads up to get air, from the unique setting. You could see morning, I would get up about 4:30, chew, and back under again to graze. fifty peaks from that campsite. gather more wood for the fire, put on water to boil for coffee, and get things These people asked if I could get close Cooking breakfast in the morning, the ready for breakfast. I would call the to the moose so they could get a better guests would see me pick up the frying guests, tell them coffee was on, and start picture. I asked them how close they pan and flip the hotcakes in the air to breakfast. I would generally make would like to get. They replied, “As turn them over. The next thing, they all hotcakes, bacon, and eggs. close as you can.” wanted to try it, and there would be hotcakes hanging from the trees. The While the guests were eating, I would I started moving closer, and as soon as Canada Jays (camp robbers) sure haul water from the creek and put it on the moose put his head down, I rowed enjoyed the treat. Everyone had a good the fire for dishes. I’d gather all per- as fast as I could and was within ten feet time. sonal possessions, get them ready to of the big bull when he lifted his head manty and pack on the horses, and then out of the lake. With water running off The ninth day we proceeded to Granite gather my hobbled horses. I always put the shovels of his horns, he looked Park Chalet, which is in a high moun- a bell on one, so I could find them awesome and fierce. They shouted, tain setting and is a gorgeous place. The easily. “Get us out of here!” I had already last day, we would saddle up and go started rowing away as I knew I was down Swiftcurrent Pass and back to Saddling the packhorses and getting closer then it was safe to be. After all Many Glacier. them ready to go was next. While the that, they didn’t even get their picture, dudes were finishing their coffee, I At Many Glacier, my new friends would as they had dropped their camera. would wash dishes, pack the groceries, be ready to go on with their travels. etc., put the packs on the horses, get my The next day, we got on the Interna- Generally there would be a new group guests mounted up, and start down the tional which ferried us across Waterton ready to go out. I always looked trail to the next campsite. This was the Lake to the Prince of Wales Hotel. forward to meeting the new people and routine from camp to camp on the ten- Here we got to sleep in a regular bed sharing the deer, elk, moose, goats, day trip. and take a bath that wasn’t in a cold marmots, ground squirrels, and all the lake. We also enjoyed the cuisine, other wildlife, flora, fauna, and scenery The second day we would camp on especially me, as I didn’t have to cook it of Glacier National Park. Belly River, in a beautiful level valley or wash the dishes. with lush grass. The next day we would go to Crossley [now Cosley] Lake and catch trout surrounded by gorgeous scenery. The fourth day, we would move on to Glenn’s Lake, a great spot with good fish, which the guests would enjoy catching and cooking over the campfire. Stoney Indian Pass was a high place where you could see a long ways, and people were impressed with the view in every direction. We would then drop down to the Waterton Valley and Kootenai Lakes. I always packed a small rubber raft with me, which we used for fishing and swimming. We caught brook trout in Kooteanai Lakes, which Great Northern Railway photos, courtesy of Burlington Northern Santa Fe are smaller than most trout, but are Railroad considered the tastiest.

The Inside Trail Fall 2003 29 A 50th Wedding Anniversary in Glacier By Joe N. Piggott (Gearjammer 1948) St. Mary Junction Lake down to Goat Haunt is still popular. Hiking, fishing and canoeing To celebrate our 50th wedding anniver- In 1948, St. Mary Junction had only a at Cameron Lake was high point, while sary, my wife and I spent a week in café, with rest rooms, good coffee, an anniversary dinner at the Prince of Glacier National Park last August. Our delicious huckleberry pie, and two Wales dining room was a memorable three children, their spouses, and four stingy slot machines. Now St. Mary finale for our visit. grandsons accompanied us on the trip. Resort and Cabins with restaurant, gift In 1948, I drove red jammer bus # 105, shop, grocery and gas station occupy the Prices and have extolled the beauty of the park intersection. Nearby the Park Café A 1948 brochure that I have kept to my family. Here are some impres- enjoys a well-deserved reputation for revealed the greatest changes in Glacier. sions from our trip. good food and quick service. Hotel rooms were $7.50 a day single The Forest Fires Many Glacier Hotel occupancy; breakfast $1.00; lunch $1.25; and dinner $1.75. In our On July 23rd, five forest fires were After three days’ evacuation because of present economy, rates are considerably burning on 50,000 acres west of the the fires, Many Glacier Hotel was different, but the same beauty and continental divide, threatening West reopened. We were able to visit the hospitality can be enjoyed. Glacier, Apgar, and Lake McDonald beautiful Swiftcurrent area and see the Hotel. Sixteen hundred fire fighters shrinking Grinnell Glacier. Many The Buses with helicopters, air tankers, and Glacier Hotel was undergoing a consid- I had chartered my 1948 bus, no. 105, bulldozers were trying to control the erable exterior restoration. Later inside with an excellent driver who took us fires. The Burlington Northern Santa all of the carpet will be replaced and the from St. Mary’s Junction to Logan Pass Fe Railroad sent a fire team with 68,000 walls redecorated. and return. The Going-to-the-Sun gallons of water in five tank cars. The Waterton Highway seemed reasonably well fire fighters were successful in setting maintained, but the visitor’s center at and controlling backfires to reduce the Waterton village has grown into an the Pass is beautiful. The splendor of combustible condition. interesting destination with good cafes, St. Mary Lake and the surrounding lodging and shops. The Prince of Wales mountains remains untouched. Hotel remains in its breathtaking, majestic setting, unaffected by the last Continued on page 32. 55 years. The launch trip on Waterton

Joe Pigott (in hat) standing next to his wife and family at St. Mary Junction after the their ride to Logan Pass. (Photo courtesy of the family)

30 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail Evacuation of Fish Creek continued from page 15. ate” became the new buzzwords. The everyone was out. Maggie handed over signs of the huge smoke plume getting fire was spreading faster than expected her color-coded map and Harry hopped ever bigger and blacker around us, we and on a direct course toward Fish in his truck. They did a final drive- beat a hasty retreat out of Fish Creek Creek, Apgar, Park Headquarters, and through inspection and left evacuation Campground. the village of West Glacier. With new notices at the handful of sites where Leaving the park, we had an eerie orders in hand, Harry and the rangers camping gear still remained. feeling as we passed through the “lit off’ to speed things up. The Steele During the rushed drive through the unmanned entrance station and fully family wasn’t going to be able to leave campground, Gary confided to Harry realized the seriousness of the situation. until every person in Fish Creek was out that he feared this was “Yellowstone all Stopping at Headquarters for further and accounted for. over again.” Gary had been a ranger at directions and information, we found Most campers recognized that the Yellowstone National Park during the only a few essential staffers still remain- situation was serious and that they firestorm of 1988 and had a bad feeling ing. We left the park that day not weren’t to dally. However, there were about the situation now unfolding in realizing that we had just spent our last also those that chose to do otherwise. In Glacier. When the duo finished their “normal” night of the summer at Fish spite of the falling embers and a smoke rounds, Gary told all of us, “You guys Creek. column shooting high into the sky, a did a great job!” We much appreciated Afterthoughts: you never know how number of campers decided to stop and his praise as we had just spent a tense people are going to react in emergency empty their RVs at the dump station, and stress-filled couple of hours. situations. I am so proud of our located across from the kiosk. This During the campers’ evacuation we did daughter Maggie, who acted with created a traffic bottleneck and eventu- not have time to pack up our own courage. It would have been under- ally brought traffic to a standstill. Harry belongings in our residence at the standable for someone her age to panic and I had to tell them to move on and ranger station. Gary told us not to take or get hysterical. Instead, she bravely that the dump station was now closed. much time. We threw our things did what was necessary. Most evacuees understood and were haphazardly into our vehicles. With cooperative - but there were a few “unhappy campers.” The most trying camper was a woman View from Granite Park continued from who’when told of the evacuation, page 10. refused to pack up. She said that “it’s Unfortunately, I was carrying all the pipe my husband’s job,” and that we would closer, flaming debris fell and spotfires wrenches which I felt we might need. I just have to wait until he got back from started within a couple hundred feet. didn’t drop them. The visibility improved golfing. When told to call him at the When the smoke became too bad we momentarily and I looked below to my West Glacier Golf Course, she shot distributed particle masks to the guests right at an intense orange glow which was back, “He doesn’t like to be disturbed while the fire burned around us as we the only light that I could see by. Still when he’s golfing. Now leave me alone. waited for the danger to pass. We ran being unable to contact Mike I called for I have to put on my makeup.” Sur- down our water supply by 9:00 that park-wide radio silence for a fire emer- rounding campers packed up for her as night, from 7000 to about 700 gallons. gency. Radio traffic ended and I asked they tried to help avoid any more We could see that the crown-fire which Mike to open the valves and get the pump unpleasant confrontations for Harry. had been coming our way had arced running. His response was, ‘Chris, get When finally leaving, she drove through around and above us, burning through out of there, it looks really bad.’ the kiosk lane in a huff, refused to give Swiftcurrent Pass with 200-300 foot flame me her stub, and threw it at my daugh- Upon reaching the Chalet a few moments lengths. The reservoir below had run dry, ter. later we removed all flammables away but the winds had died down and we felt from the buildings, including propane that the immediate danger had passed. When all the campers who would be tanks and winter wooden shutters. Hoses Everyone was hungry so we decided to eat contacted and accounted for were out, were running wetting down the buildings and let the guests relax as best they could. Harry radioed Gary Moses, the law with some guests helping out between At sunset the flames surrounding us lit up enforcement ranger in charge of the pictures, videos, tears, prayers, and near the Chalet with an orange-pink glow and park’s evacuation, and told him we were panic. Most guests were asked to remain spotfires continues to burn above and set to go. He was at Fish Creek in an in the Chalet except those that were around us as we sat and watched through instant and asked if we were sure assisting. All the while the fire burned the night. The Inside Trail Fall 2003 31 Backing out of an Avalanche continued from page 27. I don’t know how many hairpin turns to the road was opened as there was no place I never told a soul how far I backed No 95 the right or to the left there were before I to turn around where I was. Then, after up that road. Only its Jammer and that saw some growth on the outside of the the road was opened we could get some Ranger, whoever he was, know for sure. I guard rail rocks! I have now, and I had more help to guide me back to where I don’t know if he ever told anyone. I hope then, absolutely no concept of how much could turn around. I said No thanks, I not as I always wanted to keep that as our time it took. I was concentrating only on will stay right here with No 95. If you secret -- just between me and No 95. what I was trying to do. Even though the need us you know where we’ll be. He left I don’t guess I’ll ever have the chance, but snow on the hood and windshield was not muttering to himself if you do and have a spare minute, try to melting, I was wringing wet with sweat I wrapped one of the blankets around my find out what happened to No 95. If you and totally out of breath when I heard the shoulders as I was getting pretty cold. have time, go by and wipe some dust off horn of the Ranger’s pickup truck behind Soon I heard a sound from down the of it and tell it I remembered. me. I heard him call to inquire if I was road. I figured it was the snowplow OK. He walked up and asked if I knew working from the other side. I waited a there had been this big snow slide. I told bit, cleaned the snow off of the hood and 50th Anniversary, him I knew it as I had been in it. He windshield so I could see and started didn’t believe me and walked down the continued from page 30. down again. You can’t guess how slow I road to see where it was and what went and how I listened for another “My old bus” appears the better for 55 damage, if any it had done to the road. freight train. When I could see the deep years. Ford Motor Company com- He was gone a pretty good while amd snow on the road I waited for the plow to pletely restored it by placing underneath fmally came back. He said he could see break through. The driver made several a new Ford truck powered by liquid where the front of the bus had left its passes through the snow bank, wide petroleum gas with power steering, mark in the side of the snow bank and enough for me to get No. 95 through. In power brakes, automatic transmission asked how I got from down there to a few minutes I was on my way down and bucket seats for the driver and his where I was. I told him I had backed up again. After all, GPTCo. had its rules. front-seat passenger. The outward the road. He said he would never have appearance and convertible top appear believed it if he had not seen where I had When I got down to flat ground I started the same. No other vehicle inspires been. to breath a bit easier. When I pulled into such confidence in its comfort and McDonald Hotel it was late in the He said he needed to go back to report safety. Glacier Park measured up to the afternoon and there were people hanging what had happened. and that there was a glowing promises I had made and will around to see No 95 pull in with that snowplow on the way up to open the attract a return by our children and squeaky horn going full blast. I had done road. He suggested I should leave No. 95 grandsons in the future. what I had been told to do. there and come back up with him until JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacierparkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415.

An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulating to a Lifetime membership in five installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100.

The Glacier Park Foundation is a ¤ 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent permitted by law.

(Panorama by Christine Baker)

32 Fall 2003 The Inside Trail