The Textile Association (India) (Founded 1939) ISSN 0368-4636

ISO Certified Association Sept - Oct 2013 EDITORIAL BOARD Volume 74 No. 3 Chairman : Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai Co-Chairman : Mr. K. L. VIDURASHWATHA Contents Technical Advisor, Rossari Biotech, Mumbai Contents Editor : Prof. (Dr.) R. V. ADIVAREKAR Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai Editorial : A giant take off in the direction of success! 114 MEMBERS by Prof. (Dr.) R.V. Adivarekar

Dr. ARINDAM BASU (CSTRI, Bangalore) Mr. C. BOSE (Bose & Co., Mumbai) Dr. A. N. DESAI (BTRA, Mumbai) Influence of Substitution of Madder by Marigold 117 Dr. ROSHAN PAUL (Hohenstein Institute, Germany) in Colouration of Natural Fibres Dr. A. K. PRASAD (Clariant, Mumbai) by M.D. Teli, Sanket Valia & Asmita Jadhav Dr. RAMKUMAR SHESHADRI (Texastech University, USA) Reactive Dyeing of Cotton with Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY 122 (Advisor, NMIMS-CTF, Shirpur) Layer-by-Layer Technique by S.D. Phadke, S. Maiti, P.V. Madiwale & R.V. Adivarekar OFFICE BEARERS National President Mr. D. R. MEHTA Advancements in Computer Colour Matching: 126 National Vice-President Colour Matching through Internet Dr. ANIL GUPTA by Smita Honade, Neeraj Shrivastava, Aniket Bhute & C.W. Acharya Chairman Mr. K. D. SANGHVI Vice-Chairman The Application of Advanced Control Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA 131 Hon. Gen. Secretary Charts in Textiles Mr. V. D. ZOPE by Subhankar Maity Hon. Jt. Gen. Secretary Mr. HARESH B. PAREKH Mr. VIRENDRA JARIWALA Quantitative and Qualitative Requirements of 140 Hon. Treasurer Cotton in the 12th Five Year Plan Period Mr. V. N. PATIL by K.P. Chellamani, R.S. Vignesh Balaji & J. Sudharsan Chairman - J.T.A. Editorial Board Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI Chairman P.A.C. Texperience 150 Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY Input-Output Reconciliation (A case study) Chairman B.P.C. Prof. ASHWIN I. THAKKAR by Mr. S. Srinivasan

Printed at : Sundaram Art Printing Press, Mumbai Texnotes 152 Published by PAVITRA PUBLISHER Mr. J. B. SOMA (Publisher) Chapter 2. Bio-based products and their application in Textile 7A/203, New Dindoshi Giridarshan CHS., by Manasi A. Damle, Madhura P. Nerurkar & Ravindra V. Adivarekar Near N.N.P. No. 1 & 2, New Dindoshi, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 065. M.: 9819801922 E-mail : [email protected] / [email protected] JTA is a Blmonthly Publication of OTHER FEATURES THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) Unit Activities Pathare House, 2nd Floor, Next to State Bank of India, 156 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028. News 158 Phone : (91-22) 2446 1145 • Fax (91-22) 2447 4971 Advertisement Index E-mail : [email protected] 178 www.textileassociationindia.org Forthcoming Events 194 JTA is Abstracted By : Chemical Abstracts, USA Indian Science Abstrats, India World Textile Abstracts, UK Texincon, India EditorialEditorial

A giant take off in the direction of success!

By the time this issue of JTA reaches you, it will be already past Diwali. Still I take this occasion to wish all the beloved readers a Very Happy Diwali and a Happy New Year; though Belated. This Diwali indeed will be of great remembrance due to a special gift, as India enters the race of Mars Mission with the launch of Mangalyan on the auspicious day of Diwali. This definitely is a reason to celebrate. After India's successful unmanned Chandrayaan mission to the Moon in 2008 that brought back the first clinching evidence of the presence of water there, the Mars Orbiter Mission (MOM ), informally called as Mangalyaan is a "natural progression". India's Rs.450 crore Mars Orbiter Mission (MOM) was launched using a Polar Satellite Launch Vehicle (PSLV) rocket, on 5th November 2013 from SHAR, Sriharikota, Andhra Pradesh. As per the survey, it is the fourth most tracked satellite globally. "If we can't dare to dream big it would leave us as hewers of wood and drawers of water! India is today too big, to be just living on the fringes of high technology", aptly said somewhere. India has come a long way through hardships since it began its space programme half a century ago when it set up the first rocket launch pad in a coconut plantation in southern Kerala state. Now, 21 Indian satellites circle Earth, giving support to telephone operators, broadcast outlets, weather forecasters and providing remote education and healthcare. The full credit goes to ISRO; who with the famed Indian skill of "Jugaad" (creating a cheap alternative solution) have become successful in making this mission at a low record prize of $73 million. This prize is said to be 10 times less as compared to US counterpart, Nasa's Maven orbiter, which is due to launch on November 18. We will have to wait for about 10 months to fully celebrate our conquest of a successful mission. The robotic satellite will have to travel about 780 million kilometre journey to Mars. According to ISRO Chairman Koppillil Radhakrishnan, there were 51 missions so far around the world amongst which 21 were successful missions. If all goes well and the satellite orbits the Red Planet, India's space agency will become the fourth in the world after those of the United States, Russia and Europe to undertake a successful Mars mission. Coming back to our textile sector, it is also not behind in the celebration. The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs (CCEA), on 30th October 2013, has approved the launching of a new Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS) with a total cost of Rs. 500 crore during the 12th Five Year Plan. The Finance Minister, Shri P. Chidambaram announced this policy in the Union Budget 2013-14. The Indian textile industry was losing out to competition owing to environmental compliances. IPDS is expected to help the domestic manufacturers to improve their global competitiveness by using environment friendly processing standards and technology. The scheme would cover the following points, 1. Common Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) 2. Captive power generation on technology preferably renewable/green technology 3. Infrastructure such as storm water management, necessary roads and pipelines for water & wastewater 4. Facility for testing and R&D centres. This scheme is not only expected to create new processing units but also support the up- gradation of existing textile processing clusters. Significantly, it will also encourage research and development work in the textiles processing sector. We pray for the success of our 'Missions'; one of Mangalyaan and another is careful utilisation of the new Integrated Processing Development Scheme.

Prof. (Dr.) R.V. Adivarekar, Editor, JTA Subscribe to the most instinctive Textile & Garment Journal from The Textile Association (India)

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The Textile Association (India) Bank MICR Code : 400014084 Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), IFSC/NEFT/RTGS No. : MAHB0000980 Mumbai – 400 028 (MH) India The Textile Association (India) Phone: +91-22-2446 1145, Fax: +91-22-2447 4971 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.textileassociationindia.org Sept -Oct2013 Email :[email protected] I.C.T., Mumbai. Prof. (Dr.) M.D. Teli, *All correspondenceshouldbe addressedto, present inplantsandanimalsarepigmentmolecules barks, leaves,flowersandfruits[2].Thenaturaldyes obtained fromvariouspartsofplantsincludingroots, Natural dyeshaveawiderangeofshadesandcanbe like cotton,wool,silkandflaxsinceancienttimes. food substrates,leather, woodaswellnaturalfibres Natural dyesareknownfortheiruseincolouration of ventional dyeingusingsyntheticdyes[1]. times makenaturaldyeinglesseconomicalthancon- the rawmaterial,lowcolourvaluesandlongdyeing However sometimetediousextractionofdyestufffrom lower toxicityandallergicreactionsthansyntheticdyes. compatibility withtheenvironmentandalsopossess hibit betterbiodegradabilityandgenerallyhave creased environmentalawareness.Naturaldyesex- other purposesisjustoneoftheconsequencesin- of naturaldyesincolourationtextilematerialsand Natural dyeshavebeenusedsinceancienttimes.Use on applicationofnaturaldyestextilematerials. research workhasbeenundertakenaroundtheworld friendly andbio-degradablematerials. A considerable Nowadays thereisaglobalinterestintheuseofeco- 1. Introduction DYEING Influence ofSubstitutionMadderbyMarigoldin Extraction, Madder, Marigold,Dyeing,Cotton,Silk,Cotton/silk,K/Svalues. Keywords were foundtobequitesatisfactory. proportion ofmarigoldwasincreasedatthecostmadder. The fastnesspropertiesofthedyedsamples fastness andlightwerealsostudied.TheresultsindicateanincreaseintheK/Svaluesas dyed materialswerestudiedwiththeuseofcomputercolourmatchingsoftware. The dyeability, wash silk usingcombinationsofmadderandmarigoldwithalumasamordant.TheL,a*b*valuesthe have agreatsignificanceintextilecolouration.Compoundshadeswereobtainedoncotton,silkandcotton/ red pigmentandmarigoldflowerisarichsourceoflutein,cartenoidyellowboththem (Madder andMarigold)inthedyebath.Madderisoneofimportantplantsourcesformanufacturing The paperreportstheresultsofvariouscompoundshadesobtainedfromusingmixturenaturaldyes Abstract Colouration ofNaturalFibres Department ofFibresDepartment andTextile Processing Technology M.D. Teli*,Sanket Valia & Jadhav Asmita Institute ofChemicalTechnology 117 Tinctorium) isoneofthemostimportantplantsources are ofparticularinterest. Madderplant(Rubia Among themanynatural dyes, madderandmarigold [6]. material withthemordant(post-mordantingprocess) mordanting process)orbyaftertreatmentofthedyed neous applicationofthedyeandmordant(meta- then dyeing(pre-mordantingprocess)orbysimulta- first applyingthemordantontextilesubstrateand of thedyedfabrics.Thiscomplexmaybeformedby fading ofcoloursi.e.,improvesthefastnessproperties tion ofnaturaldyesandalsopreventsbleeding tannic acid.Themordanthelpsinabsorptionandfixa- sulphate, copperzinctannin,and dants usedarealum,potassiumdichromate,ferrous matter andthefibre[5].Someofimportantmor- ally ametallicsalt,havingaffinityforboththecolouring applied onthetextileswithhelpofmordants,usu- Natural dyesaremostlynon-substantiveandmustbe those obtainedfrommineralsE.g.ocher[4]. indigo, thoseobtainedfromanimals,E.g.cochinealand categories: naturaldyesobtainedfromplants,E.g. chrome [3].Naturaldyescanbeclassifiedintothree ture withcolour, chromogen-chromophorewithauxo- impart colour. There isacorrelationofchemicalstruc- chain areusuallyrequiredforresonanceandthusto containing aromaticringstructurecoupledwithaside which impartcolourtothematerials.Thesemolecules

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association on cotton,silkandcottonmaterials. obtained byusingthesetwoimportantnaturalcolours paper dealswiththestudyofcompoundshades extract isnormallyusedfordyeingtextiles.Thepresent Structure ofluteinisgiveninFigure1.2.Thecrude consisting ofcarotenoid-luteinandflavonoid-patuletin. It producesnaturaldyefromitsflowers(petals)mainly in additiontobeinggrownforitsmedicinalvalues[9]. and lutin,isgrownasacutflowergardenflower, non-toxicity [8].Marigold,amajorsourceofcartenoids native tosyntheticdyesasafoodcolourant,dueits Lutein. A natural pigment,xanthophyllsoffers analter- posite family, hasarichsourceofnaturalantioxidant- Marigold, anornamentalplantbelongingtothecom- mordant, mainlyalum[7]. The dyeisfixedonthefabricwithhelpofa vegetable reddyeforleather, wool,cotton,andsilk. in Figure1.1.Ithasbeenusedsinceancienttimesas ter, rubiadin,munjistin[1].Structure ofalizarin isgiven as purpurine,pseudo-purpurin,alizarine2-methyles- other severalanthraquinonesinminorproportionssuch principally alizarin(1,2-dihydroxyanthraquionone)and for manufacturingofredpigments.Itsrootscontain (80GSM), silk(50GSM)and cotton/silk(30GSM)fab- natural inpowderedform. Substrates usedwerecotton Marigold andMadderdyes weresuppliedby Adiv pure 2.1 Materials 2. MaterialsandMethods Figure 1.1:Structure ofalizarin;i.e. Alizarin (1,2- Figure 1.2: Structure ofLutein dihydroxyanthraquinone) 118 using expression: tance accessories.TheK/S valuesweredetermined on RayscanSpectrascan5100+equippedwithreflec- colour byreflectancemethodusing10degreeobserver The dyedsampleswereevaluatedforthedepth of 3.1 Colourvaluebyreflectancemethod 3. Testingand Analysis was sameasmentionedabove. the targetedpercentageshade.Thedyeingprocedure 30:70 and0:100ofthetotaldyeextractrequiredfor marigold, takeninproportionof100:0,70:30,50:50, dyed usingcombinationoftwodyes,madderand mentioned above.Themordantedsampleswerethen mordanted usingalumasamordantperprocedure In caseofcompoundshades,thefabricswere ton/silk 2.2.4 Compoundshadesoncotton,silk,andcot- with coldwater. 1h. After dyeing,thefabricsweresqueezedandwashed 90 introduced indyebathanddyeingwascontinuedat (madder andmarigold).Themordantedfabricswere the fabricsweresqueezedanddyedusingnaturaldyes the mordantingwascontinuedfor1h. After mordanting, 900C forcottonand700Csilkcotton/silk perature andslowlythetemperaturewasraisedto duced intothemordantsolution(alum)atroomtem- material toliquorratio1:30.Thefabricswereintro- was carriedoutinRotadyermachinekeepingthe The mordantingofcotton,silkandcotton/silkfabrics 2.2.3 Mordanting anddyeingprocess ume andusedfordyeing. for 1h.Theextractwasfiltered,madetooriginalvol- boiling 20gmofdrymarigoldflowersin100mlwater A stocksolutionofthedye(20%)waspreparedby 2.2.2 ExtractionofDye for mordanting. extract wasfiltered,madetooriginalvolumeandused ing 20gmofmordantpowderin100mlwater. The A stocksolutionofalum(20%)wasmadebydissolv- 2.2.1 Preparation ofMordant 2.2 Methods grade purchasedfromlocalmarket. rics. Alum wasusedasmordantandoflaboratory 0 C forcottonand70 (1-R)² S K = 2R 0 C forsilkandcotton/silk Sept -Oct2013 DYEING samples weretreatedfor45minat50 soap solutionwasusedasthewashingliquor. The out usingISOIImethod. A solutioncontaining5g/L Evaluation ofcolourfastnesstowashingwascarried 3.2 Evaluationof Wash fastness tonal variations. these entireco-ordinatesenablesonetounderstandthe -yellow, negative-blue). As awhole,combinationof b* correspondstotheyellow-bluecoordinate(positive green coordinate(positive-red,negative-green)and ness (100-white,0-black),a*correspondstothered- the colouronfabric.L*correspondingtobright- eral, thehigherK/Svalue,depthof values usingtheRayscanSpectrascan5100+.Ingen- ated intermsofCIELABcolourspace(L*,a*andb*) ficient. Thedyedfabricsweresimultaneouslyevalu- the Absorption coefficient &SistheScatteringcoef- Where, Risthereflectanceatcompleteopacity;K Sept -Oct2013 to agivenfabric.Incaseof cotton,silkandcotton/silk bined contributionofdye and amordantwithrespect The colourvaluesincase ofnaturaldyesareacom- to 4.3respectively. 4.1 to4.3andtheira*b*plotsaregiveninFigures marigold withalumasamordantareillustratedin Tables The resultsofthecompoundshadesmadderand in thefabricskeepingoveralldyeshadeas100%. tions ofmadderandmarigoldweresuccessfullydyed of cotton,silkandcotton/silkfabrics,variouscombina- bination ofdyes(MadderandMarigold)ontheshades In ordertostudytheeffectofmordantandcom- 4. ResultsandDiscussion better, 6-verygood,7bestand8-excellent). 8, where1-poor, 2-fair, 3-moderate,4-good,5 pared withthestandardscaleofbluewool(ratings,1- filter, wavelength,420nm. The sampleswerecom- the airintestingchamberas40%anddaylight standard temperature65 light source,Q-SunXenon Testing Chamberwithblack determined usingartificialilluminationwithXenonarc according toISO105/B02.Thelightfastnesswas Dyed fabricwastestedforcolourfastnesstolight 3.3 EvaluationofLightfastness poor, 2-fair, 3-good,4verygoodand5excellent). the respectivestandardscales(rating1-5,where1- and stainingontheundyedsampleswereevaluated rinsing anddrying,thechangeincolourofsample to materialratioof50:1inRotadyeingmachine. After DYEING 0 C withrelativehumidityof 0 C usingliquor 119 chromophore. At thesametimeauxochromemay chemical attackisaninherent propertyofthedye The resistanceofdye/pigment tochemicalorphoto- observed. cotton/silk samples,thewashfastnessofrating3was colour depthofthesamples.Incasecotton,silkand with non-ionicsoap,therewasslightdecreaseinthe dye insidethefibre.Duringwashingofdyedsamples by theextentofdiffusiondyeandstate of 4.6. Wash fastnessofthedyeisingeneralinfluenced der andmarigolddyesareillustratedinTables 4.4to cotton/silk samplesusingvariouscombinationsofmad- The fastnesspropertiesofthedyedcotton,silkand kept same. in theirproportionsoftwodyesthedyeingbathwas ures 4.1to4.3).Thisisbecausetherelativevariation compound shadesremainedalmostsame(referFig- studied, thegeneraltrendoftonalvariations b* variedforthesecombinationsondifferentfabrics madder. Although theactualvaluesofK/SandL*,a*, nated byyellowishtonealmostnullifyingtherednessof K/S valuestooandthusoverallshadesweredomi- marigold increaseda*valuesconsiderablyincreasing of madder. As sucha replacement ofmadderby gold inthiscompoundshadeevenat30%replacement tone. Thiswasmainlyduetothedominanceofmari- dominated bytremendousincreaseinb*oryellowness showed drasticincreaseinK/Svalues(2.98),mainly pared with70:30madder:marigoldratio;thelaterone (100:0) gaveleastK/Svalue(0.57),thiswhencom- It isalsointerestingtonotethatpuremaddershade yellow. indicating therebythattheshadesarebrighterand K/S valuesincreasedalongwithincreaseinL* replaced incrementallybymarigoldincompoundshade, bination weclearlyseethat,thepuremadderwhen cause decreaseinL*values.However, intheircom- It isnotedthatingeneraltheincreaseK/Svalues marigold dye. ness (b*values)withtheincreaseinproportionof values increased.Therewasalsoincreaseinyellow- with theincreaseinproportionofmadderdyeasa* K/S values.Similarly, increaseinrednesswasobserved marigold (0:100)shadegaveminimumandmaximum at thecostofmadder. Puremadder(100:0)andpure S valuesastheconcentrationofmarigoldwasincreased samples, theresultsclearlyindicateincreaseinK/

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association of 20%mordantedsilksamples Table dye proportions 4.2:Effectofvarying oncolour values values of20%mordantedcottonsamples Table dyeproportions ofvarying 1:Effect oncolour ing 4i.e.good and cotton/silkdyedsampleswerefoundtobeofrat- fastness. Thelightfastnesspropertiesofcotton,silk seem toplayanimportantroleindeterminingthelight pattern ofdyesandstabilitydyemordantcomplex also alterthefastnesseitherway. The substitution lm0100 70 0 50 -0.176 30 30 Alum 85.51 0.1458 50 Alum 0 5 70 Alum 4 100 - Alum b* 3 Alum 2 a* - 1 L* fabric K/S - RFD Dyeratio Mordant No. Sr. 100 70 0 0.566 50 0.418 92.451 30 Alum 0.0303 30 50 Alum 5 0 70 Alum - 4 b* 100 Alum 3 a* Alum - 2 L* 1 K/S - RFD Dyeratio Mordant No. Sr. lm-- - Alum lm-- - Alum Figure 4.1: Tonal variation(a*,b*)plots adrMarigold Madder adrMarigold Madder for dyedcottonsample .3 535-.3 14.312 -2.931 95.345 13.064 6.836 -1.816 93.959 13.059 5.1341 -1.013 93.777 12.538 4.0224 0.397 93.002 7.684 3.3494 7.672 86.615 6.767 -0.149 0.7182 87.623 0.1193 .419.0 0151.873 -0.195 94.007 0.0481 .859.2 1296.8 -1.259 97.226 5.992 8.1865 -0.49 96.438 5.635 5.1653 -0.122 96.077 4.798 4.2195 0.818 95.264 1.943 2.9896 5.392 91.838 0.5758 4.552 120 of 20%mordantedcotton/silksamples. Table ofvaryingdyeproportions oncolour 4.3:Effect values fabric F .018.3 0523.537 -0.572 87.431 0.1031 - b* a* - L* K/S - RFD Dyeratio No. Mordant Sr. lm0100 70 0 50 30 30 Alum 50 Alum 0 5 70 Alum 4 100 Alum 3 Alum 2 1 Texttreasure ligent are fullofdoubt." is thatthestupidare cocksure whiletheintel- The fundamentalcauseoftrouble inthe world Figure 4.3 Tonal variations(a*,b*)plotsfor dyed lm-- - Alum Figure 4.2: Tonal variations(a*,b*)plots adrMarigold Madder for dyedsilksamples cotton/silk samples .7594.871 8.1715 94.419 10.96 6.5758 -0.966 93.866 9.778 4.7457 0.055 92.583 5.343 3.4682 8.221 87.061 4.332 0.7567 0.816 88.022 0.1765 - BertrandRussell Sept -Oct2013 DYEING -2.19511.896 -1.64511.456 mordanted anddyedsilkfabric. Table 4.5: Washing andLightFastnessof Alum (20%) mordanted anddyedcottonfabric. Table 4.4: Washing andLightFastnessof Alum (20%) Sept -Oct2013 mordanted anddyedcotton/silkfabric. Table 4.6: Washing andLightFastnessof Alum (20%) DYEING 0 3 100 3 0 4 5 4 0 430 4 70350 3 100 50270 3 Fastness Light 3 301 Wash 3 Fastness 3-4 No. Dyeratio 3-4 Sr. 100 3-4 70 3-4 0 50 30 30 5 50 0 4 70 3 100 2 Fastness Light 3 1 WashFastness No. Dyeratio Sr. 100 3 0 4 5 4 0 430 4 70350 3 100 50270 3 Fastness Light 30 WashFastness 1 3 No. Dyeratio Sr. Madder Madder Madder Marigold Marigold Marigold THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION(INDIA) Please updatetheirprofile&contact informationby oorcag Colourchange Colour change Colourchange Colour change Colourchange Colour change Sending use-mailtoupdateourwebsite www.textileassociationindia.org All Membersof E-mail: [email protected], Attention 4 4 4 4 5 4 4 4 4 121 .PrabhuK.H.andBhute A.S. A 6. http://cdn.intechopen.com/pdfs/23051/InTech- 5. AlmahyH.A., Ali M.A.,andBand Ali, A.A. 4. .Vankar P.S., Shanker, R.and Wijayapala, S. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madder 8. 7. .Pratheesh 9. 2. Samanta A.K. and Agarwal P.and Agarwal SamantaA.K. 2. .SaravananP., ChandramohanG. andSaivarajS. 3. .GoodarzianH.andEkramiE. 1. References satisfactory. the dyedsamplesobtainedwerefoundtobequite marigold toredofmadder. Thefastnesspropertiesof shades wereobtainedrangingfromtypicalyellowof silk andcotton/silkfabricsamples. A widerangeof as madderandmarigoldalummordant,cotton, were obtainedusingcombinationsofnaturaldyessuch utilization ofnaturaldyes.Inthisstudy, compoundshades Hence, thepresentscenarioisdirectedtowards and earthfrompollutionecologicalimbalances. of naturalresourcesforprotectingtheenvironment A globalawarenessisalreadyinplacefavoringtheuse 5. Conclusion Dyeing_of_textiles_with_natural_dyes.pdf 63-66, (2013). Research JournalofChemicalSciences,3(1), (6), 649-664,(2012). of NaturalProducts andPlantResources agement nal ofTextile and Apparel Technology Man- Modern AppliedScience A. Text Sciences Journal Asian J.Chem , Vol. 34,384-399,(2009). , 6(1),1-15,(2009). B V.B., BennyN.andSujathaC.H. , , 9 (4):434-436,(2010). 5 (3), 418-421,(2012). , B 3 (2), (2009). Indian JFibre Review Journal World Applied ❑ Jour- , 2

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Email: [email protected] I.C.T., Mumbai. Prof. (Dr.) R. V. Adivarekar * let dyemultilayersonnonwovennylonfibres[5,6]. In gated thedepositionofPOLYDADMAC/anionic scar- ray photoelectronspectroscopy. Dubasetal.investi- bly techniqueoncottonsubstrates[4].TheyutilizedX- et al.reportedapioneeringapplicationofself-assem- tered bychoosingappropriatepolyelectrolytes.Hyde surface functionalitycanbedirectlyandflexiblyal- be finelycontrolledatanano-scale.Meanwhile,the ergy-saving. Thethicknessofdepositedmultilayerscan Thus themultilayerdepositioniseasy, simpleanden- ited onthepolymersurfacethroughionicbonding[3]. site charges,multilayerscouldbespontaneouslydepos- ent solutionscontainingpolyelectrolytescarryingoppo- When thesubstratesarealternatelydippedintodiffer- could beusedastodevelopasustainabletechnology. advantages asasurfacemodificationtechniquewhich 2]. Layer-by-layer(LBL)depositionmayoffersome become oneparticularapplicationofthisprocess[1, polymer materialsthatcanbeflexiblychargedhas substrate forassembly, thesurfacemodificationof any surfacewithchargedgroupscanbeusedasa multilayers havingdesiredproperties[1]. As almost be asuccessfultechniqueforcreatingmaterialswith The electrostaticself-assemblyprocesshasprovento 1. Introduction All correspondenceshouldbeaddressed to, Layer-by-layer, polyelectrolyte, Key Words are reportedinthispaper. The resultsareindicativeofapromisingfutureforthisprocess. as exhaustingagent.Thecolourstrengthandfastnesspropertiesofthedyedsamplewereassessed (POLYDADMAC) and deposition of(polydiallyldimethylammoniumchloride) textile functionalisation.Reactivedyeingofcottonrequiresusesaltinhugequantity. The alternate assembled depositionofpolyelectrolytesontextilesubstratesintroducesanovelprocessingmethodfor polyelectrolytes ontextilematerialsmightprovideanewapproachtoachievethesame.TheLBLself- Eco-friendly wetprocessingoftextilesistheneedhour. Layer-by-layer self-assemblydepositionof Abstract S.D. Phadke,S.Maiti,P.V. Madiwale&R.V. Adivarekar* Reactive DyeingofCottonwith Department ofFibresDepartment andTextile Processing Technology reactive dyeoncottonfabriciscarriedoutatambienttemperatureinabsenceofsalt Layer-by-Layer Technique self-assembly, Institute ofChemicalTechnology POLYDADMAC 122 BS (vinylsulphonetype,Colorband) andDRIMARINE (POLYDADMAC, BASF)andCBFIXSUPRA RED ments. Poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride) 100% cottonwovenfabric wasusedinallexperi- 2. Materialsandmethods of exhaustandcontinuousdyeingmethod. the dyeingwithhighestdepthismatchedresults electrolyte. Furthermorewithtrialanderrormethod, experiments wererepeatedwithouttheuseofpoly- Also tounderstandthesignificanceofpolyelectrolyte, understanding ofcommercialfeasibilitytheprocess. with usualtextileauxiliaries.Thiswasdoneforthe been donetofindthecompatibilityofpolyelctrolytes on itsowndoesnotrequireuseofsalt.Butastudyhas based reactivedyeatroomtemperature.Thismethod by layermethodtodyecottonfabricwithvinylsulphone communication depictstheresultsobtainedusinglayer cotton intheundertakenstudy, howeverthepresent Vinyl sulphoneandHEclassofdyeswereusedtodye gaining theirattention. method hasalreadyenthralledmanyresearchersandis for pulpfibres[9,10].Thusitcanbeseenthat,this films onthermalpropertiesoflignocellulosicfibresused investigated theeffectsofself-assembledPDDA/clay improve colorfastnesstowashing[7,8].Linetal. with theLBL deposition ofPSS/POLYDADMAC could addition, theyalsodemonstratedthatcoatingsilkfibres Sept -Oct2013 DYEING Fine Chemicalsunlessparticularlymentioned. Figure 2.1. All chemicalswereobtainedfromS.D. polyelectrolyte usedinthisexperimentareshown dyeing withoutfurtherpurification.Thestructuresof ORANGE HE2XI(HEtype,Clariant)wereusedfor Sept -Oct2013 POLYDADMAC 1) sequences; Experiments havebeencarriedusingfollowingfour gpl). Figure2.2givestheschematicofprocess. with sodiumcarbonate(10gpl)andGlauber'ssalt(20 utes. Also POLYDADMAC isusedincombination detergent. Fabricisdippedineachbeakerfor2min- process, after-treatmentisdoneusing2gplnon-ionic 5 and10cyclesareused. After completionofdyeing deposited dye.Thisisonecompletecycle.Inthisstudy dye followedwithwashingsteptoremoveloosely The fabricisdippedinthebeakercontainingreactive polyelctrolyte. Forthispurpose,deionisedwaterisused. step isneededtoremovelooselydeposited which resultsinadsorptionoffirstlayer. A washing Fabric isdippedintoasolutionofPOLYDADMAC 2.1 DyeingwithLBLtechnique )POLYDADMAC 3) After completion,thefabricisdippedinsodaash POLYDADMAC 2) DYEING dye dye (predissolved 20g/lglaubers salt) solution (10gpl)for20minutes. ter . . Figure 2.2:DyeingwithLBLmethod deionised water deionised water Figure 2.1:POLYDADMAC . . . deionised water deionised deionisedwater

water . . deionised wa- reactive dye . . reactive reactive 123 POLYDADMAC withlayer-by-layer method Table 1:K/Sand%strength ofcottondyedusing tive andnegativelayers,exhaustion ofreactivedyeon In sequence1,Duetothe formation ofalternateposi- ventional recipe. Where, Controlis1%exhaustdyedfabricwithcon- )POLYDADMAC 4) using POLYDADMAC aspolyelctrolyte. Table 1givestheresultsobtainedforLBL technique 3. ResultsandDiscussion ficient. the Absorption coefficient &SistheScatteringcoef- Where, Risthereflectanceatcompleteopacity;K using expression; tance accessories.TheK/Svaluesweredetermined Rayscan Spectrascan5100+equippedwithreflec- The absorbanceofthedyedsampleswasmeasuredon colour byreflectancemethodusing10degreeobserver. The dyedsampleswereevaluatedforthedepthof 2.3 Colourvaluebyreflectancemethod used respectively.[11] Method 16-2004and AATCC Test Method 8-2005were ness, AATCC Test Method61-2006, AATCC Test For washingfastness,lightfastnessandrubbingfast- gpl and1respectively. The concentrationsofpolyelectrolyteanddyeare0.5 2.2 Fastnesstestingofdyedfabric lution (10gpl)for20minutes. After completion,thefabricisdippedinsodaashso- 0631 384.9 6.3719 5.71 242.9 10 4.0215 5 200.1 10 4 3.3141 5 4 10 3 5 3 10 2 5 % Str 2 1 - K/S 1 Control Cycles Sequence water dye (predissolved20g/lglauberssalt) K/S =(1-R)²/2R . deionisedwater .79203.6 165.2 3.3719 2.736 128.3 2.1252 101.3 1.6678 .54100 1.6554 2345.4 12 . . deionised reactive ength

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Table 3:Fastnessratingsofsequence2 Table 2:Fastnessratingsofsequence1 Table 2. cotton takesplace.Thefastnessratingsaredepictedin obtained asinTable 3. utilization ofdye.Thisisevidentfromfastnessratings solution. Thusmoredyeisgettingfixedimprovingthe fixation takingplacewiththetreatmentofsodaash nate positiveandnegativelayersissupportedbythe In thiscasetheexhaustionduetobuildingofalter- is higherthaninsequence1. In sequence2,thedyeuptakeresultinginthisprocess picted in Table 4. tion. Thefastnessratingsforthissequencearede- having cationicnanolayerimprovingthedyeexhaus- dye liquorwhichiselctrostaticallyattractedbythecotton water itishelpingoutinsaltingofthedyefrom Glauber's saltbeinghigherthanthatofreactivedye in here. Thepointtobenotedhereisthesolubility of of neutralisingthezetapotentialdoesnotholdgood positive chargeonit.Thereforetheconventionaltheory is alreadyhavingPOLYDADMAC layerbearinga this case,thecottonenteringreactivedyesolution these chargestoimprovetheexhaustion.Howeverin charge andhenceglaubersaltisaddedtoneutralise Normal cottonwhendippedinwaterassumesnegative is higherthanthatinsequence1. In sequence3,thedyeuptakeresultinginthisprocess ahn ates4/5 Washing fastness Fastness test 3and 2/3(dryandwet 4 fastness Rubbing 4 Light fastness Washing fastness Fastness tests ubn ates3and2/3(drywet 4/5 fastness Rubbing Light fastness Rating respectively) Rating respectively) 124 from Tables 6and7. using polyelectrolyteareveryinferior. This isevident ties ofshadesobtainedwithLBLtechniquewithout The colourrenderingpropertiesandfastnessproper- Table 5:Fastnessratingsofsequence4 the conventionallydyedfabric. The fastnesspropertiesobtainedarealsoatparwith found thathighestdepthisobtainedinthissequence. and studytheircombinedeffectondyeuptake.Itis In thesequence4,webringinallfactorstogether Table 4:Fastnessratingsofsequence3 method withoutpolyelectrolyte Table 7:Fastnessratingsofcottondyedwithlayer-by-layer layer methodwithoutpolyelectrolyte Table 6:K/Sand%strengthofcottondyedwithlayer-by- 00540.8 24.6 0.5 15.4 0.46 12.5 0.42 35.4 10 0.35 21.2 0.39 10 11.1 0.34 10 10.1 0.31 10 4 0.21 5 3 5 2 5 1 5 4 % Str 3 2 K/S 1 Cycles Sequence ubn ates3and2/3(dryandwet 4/5 fastness Rubbing 4/5 Light fastness Washing fastness Fastness test ubn ates½and ½(dryandwet ½ Rubbing fastness 1 Light fastness Washing fastness Fastness test ubn ates3and2/3(dryandwet 4/5 fastness Rubbing 4/5 Light fastness Washing fastness Fastness test respectively) Rating respectively) Rating respectively) Rating Sept -Oct2013 DYEING ength ture andhenceprocessislessenergyintensive.There- is alsosustainableasdyeingdoneatroomtempera- technique issuitedforcontinuousdyeing.Themethod technique withoutcompromisingqualityofdyeing.The perature canbeusedatroomtemperatureusingthis The reactivedyeswhichareappliedathighertem- technique isapplicableforarangeoftextilefibres. thus theloadofchemicalsislessinthismethod.The even. Thequantityofpolyelectrolyteusedislessand of dyeingisreproducibleandtheshadesobtainedare LBL techniqueisanovelmethodofdyeing.Thedepth 5. Conclusions matching system(CCM). confirmed byevaluatingK/Svaluesoncomputercolour was foundwhendyeused5gpl.Resultswere expression usedwas70%andtheequivalentdepth continuous method(pad-batch)isconcerned,the% the equivalentdepthwasfoundtobe2.5%. As faras well aspad-batchmethod.Byexhaustdyeingmethod 4 wasmatchedwithconventionalexhaustdyeingas The shadeobtainedusingLBLtechniquewithsequence 4.1 Comparisonwithconventionaldyeing Sept -Oct2013 DYEING 125 )DecherG, HongJD,SchmittJ DecherG 4) 3) CheungJH,Fou AF, RubnerMF ChenW,McCarthy 2) 1) )DubasST, LimsavarnL,IamsamaiC, 5) 1 American 11) HydeK,DongH,HinestrozaJP, 10) HydeK,RusaM,HinestrozaJ, HauserPJ, Tabba AH 9) 8) FerreiraM,RubnerMF DubasST, 7) 6) References tion levelifthoroughlyresearched method hastremendouspotentialtobeusedatproduc- fore, tosumitup,canbedefinitelysaidthatthis 244 831-835. (1992) Triangle Park,NC: AATCC ists. (2007) 422-428. (2005) (1995) 101 :985-989 (1994) , 3286-3290.(2006) AATCC Technical Manual Association of Textile ChemistsandColor- Science Text ResJ

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Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association * consists ofthefollowingcomponents: The conventionalcomputercolourmatchingsystem sive forsmallandmediumdyehouses. tometer andcolourmatchingsoftwareareveryexpen- CCM Systemisveryprohibitivebecausespectropho- tor oftheIndiantextileindustry. However, thecostof Systems (CCM)aremostlyusedintheorganizedsec- Today highcost,importedComputerColour Matching recipe foranyshade. spectrophotometer todaycolouristgetsaveryclose colour industry. Duetoadvancedcoloursoftwareand colour controlhavebecomeanintegralpartofany in theexportmarket.Today Colourmeasurement and prediction anditsconsistencyisthemajorrequirement and garmenttothedevelopedcountries.Correctrecipe on thedyeingindustrytoexportfullyfinishedfabrics In recentyearstherehasbeenincreasingdemandsput 1.Introduction ◆ ◆ E-mail :[email protected] Wool Research Thane 400607 Association, Textile Chemical &ColourDepartment Smita Honade All correspondenceshouldbeaddressedto, A wellconfiguredPC/Laptopthatisloadedwith analyses it. A Spectrophotometerthatsensesthecolourand quality control. Computer colourmatching(CCM),primarydatabase,wracolourmatch,RightFirstTime(RFT),formulation, Keywords ence betweenvarioussamplesandcanalsomeasuredwhitenessyellownessindexofsample. shade withextensivedatabase(readilyavailable)andQualityControlwhereonecanpredictcolourdiffer- matching service.Thisservicehastwomaincomponentsi.e.Formulationforpredictingrecipeanytarget houses, Wool Research Association hasdevelopedaverysimplesolutionofinternetbasedonlinecolour software areveryexpensive.Thereforetoprovideaffordablecolourmatchingservicesmall&mediumdye houses inIndia.ThetwomaincomponentsofCCMsuchasspectrophotometerandcolourmatching eter &coloursoftware.ButconventionalCCMsystemisaprohibitivecostforsmallandmediumdye Colour MatchingSystems(CCM)predictsverycloserecipeforanyshadewithadvancedspectrophotom- Today colourmatchingandcontrolhavebecomeanintegralpartofanyindustry. Computer Abstract Advancements inComputerColourMatching: Smita Honade*,NeerajShrivastava, Aniket Bhute&C.W. Acharya Colour MatchingthroughInternet Wool Research Association 126 Research Association hasdevelopedaverysimple vice tosmall&medium dye housesinIndia, Wool Therefore toprovideaffordable colourmatchingser- technology problems. technology expertsarenotavailabletohandlethecolour not equippedwithgoodlaboratoryfacilitiesandcolour the smallandmediumscaledyeingunitsinIndiaare tabase requiresaverygoodLabfacilityandmost of racy ofprimarydatabase.Preparationda- Entire successofCCMsystemdependsontheaccu- ◆ ◆ ◆ of dyesanddifferentprocessesdyeing. base) forvarietyofsubstrateswithdifferentclass that requirescolourantdatabase(primarydata- Formulation: Programforgenerationofrecipes yellowness indicesetc. rial, shadesorting,colourstrength,whitenessand age forpass/failofincomingandoutgoingmate- of variousprogramssuchasqualitycontrolpack- Quality Control:Colourmatchsoftwareconsists lights suchasD65,CWF, and TL84. ger/ weaker,orwhetheritmatchesindifferent the sample,i.e.whetheritislighter/darker, stron- ments abouttheoverallappearanceofcolour data required,analysestheanddisplayscom- Colour MatchingSoftware,thatcollectsallthe ware. the necessaryoperatingsystemtorunsoft- MANAGEMENT Sept -Oct2013 able colourmatchingservice forsmall&mediumdye WRACOLOURMATCH isa vice whichisavailableon www.wracolourmatch.com. colourmatching facility developed Information Technology linked ernment ofIndiasponsoredR&Dproject,WRAhas Under arecentlyconcludedMinistryof Textiles, Gov- (www.wracolourmatch.com) WRACOLOURMATCH4. Service vice forsmallandmediumdyehouses. solution ofinternetbasedonlinecolourmatchingser- Research Association hasdevelopedavery simple job. Taking allthesefactors into consideration, Wool sector theprimarydatabaseupdatingisnotaroutine problems andinterpretcoloursciencedata.Inorganised CCM expertswhocanhandlethecolourtechnology day bythereforesmalldyehousescannotemploy experts arenotavailableandsalariesincreasing and labdyeingmachineswithprocesscontroller. Colour facilities suchasautomaticdyedispensingmachines dyeing unitsarenotequippedwithgoodlaboratory requires verygoodlaboratoryfacilitiesandmostofthe expensive. Apart fromthatpreparationofdatabase photometer andcolourmatchingsoftwarearevery houses. Thetwomaincomponentssuchasspectro- hibitive andnotaffordableforsmallmediumdye CCM systemsusedintextileindustriesarecostpro- matching 3. Whytouseaninternetbasedcomputercolour dicted bycoloursystem. match bysortingouthundredsofformulationspre- seconds butalsoselectsthelowcost/leastmetameric colourist notonlygeneratescolourrecipeformulaein By usingcomputercolourmatchingsystemtextile mathematical languagesbasedonmoderncolorimetry. sor. Now, textilechemistcancommunicatecolourin changing andcreatingnewproblemsfortextileproces- Matching. Fibre-Dye-Processsystemsarerapidly which isnowpopularlyknownasComputerColour realized theimpactofinstrumentalmatchprediction Today, textilecolourist,technicianandmanagershave tent andaccuratecolourmatchinghasalsoincreased. dramatically. At thesametime,demandforconsis- Cost ofapplyingcolourintextileprocesseshaveraised 2. ComputerColourMatching able onwww.wracolourmatch.com. vice entitledas WRACOLOURMA solution ofinternetbasedonlinecolourmatchingser- Sept -Oct2013 MANAGEMENT WRACOLOURMATCH ser- very simpleand Afford- TCH whichisavail- 127 cannot predictRightFirstTime (RFT)recipesunless it Any CCMpredictionsystem, howeversophisticated, 4.1.1. EffectiveDatabase preparation forCCM 4.1 Featuresof maintenance agreementstobefollowed. timely updatestoworryabout,orpainstakinghardware technology, thereisnoneedofanysoftwaretoinstall, able touseronwebsite. As itisanInternetbased database timetoanditwillbeautomaticallyavail- accuracy incolourmatchingWRALabwillupdatethe a nominalannualUsageFees.Forhigherlevel of houses inIndia.Thisserviceisavailableforuserswith and affordabilitytosmall,mediumaswelllargedye unprecedented combinationofaccuracy, easeofuse, WRACOLOURMATCH serviceis Accesstowww.wracoloumatch.com website Affordablelowcosthand-heldspectrophotometer 2) 1) things: package dealdyehouseuserwilljustrequirefollowing To accessthisaffordable colourmatchserviceasa house userswith The mainobjectsofthisserviceistoprovidedye ◆ ◆ ◆ to theusers. ous substratewithdifferentdyesanddyeingprocesses service providesexhaustiveprimarydatabaseonvari- strates anddyestuffaspertheirrequirement.This shades byusingextensivedatabaseonvarioussub- dium dyehousescanpredictrecipeforanyunknown houses inIndia.Throughthisservicesmallandme- Figure 4.1:HomePage database Accurate colourmatchingwithreadilyavailable Any Time ColourMatching(24X7) Instant ColourMatchingthroughinternet WRACOLOURMATCH of WRACOLOURMATCH designed tobring

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association obtaining correctshadesRight EveryTime (RET)when in processhousesandthis isthemainreasonfornot Regular updateofprimary databaseisoftennotdone 4.1.2. Regularupdateofcolourdatabase Polyester Top-Disperse Dyes(26Dyes,File9& 12. Polyester Top-Dystar-Dianix Dyes(14Dyes) 11. Polyester Top-Clariant-Foron Dyes(12Dyes) 10. Woollen Yarn Atul DorolanEDyes(11 Dyes) 9. Wool Top-Metal ComplexDyes(38Dyes,File6 8. Wool Top-Dystar-Isolan-Metal ComplexDyes(19 7. Wool Top-Clariant-Lanasyn-Metal ComplexDyes 6. Wool Blanket-Milling Dyes(37Dyes,File1to4 5. Wool Blanket-Dystar-Milling Dyes(10Dyes) 4. Wool Blanket-Colourtex-MillingDyes(10Dyes) 3. Wool Blanket-Clariant-MillingDyes(7dyes) 2. Wool Blanket-Shidimo-MillingDyes(10dyes) 1. Current primarydatabasefile: ment. also preparethedatabaseasperuser'srequire- added toexistingdatabaseinnearfuture.WRAwill base ofmorethan100dyesandwillbe tabase preparation.Currentlythiswebsitehasdata- time andmoneyondevelopingthehugeworkda- Therefore dyehouseswillnotberequiredtospend per usersownsubstrate-dye-processcombination. racies. WRAwillalsoprepareandstoredatabaseas processes. Thisworkiscarriedoutwithutmostaccu- for dyeingofwool&polyesteranddifferent WRA ishavingahugedatabaseofvariousdyesused rying outanycolourimetricmeasurement. and samplemeasurementisothervitaltaskwhilecar- centrations. Samplepreparation,samplepresentation K/S perunitconcentrationisnotconstantatallcon- standards inthecomputercolourmatchingsystemas at least9concentrationlevelswhilefeedingprimary carry outasmanylevelsinselfshadespossiblewith for theaccuraterecipeprediction.Itisadvisableto Making primarystandardsarethemostcrucialwork has beenfedwithmostaccurateprimarystandards. 10 Combine) &7 Combine) Dyes) (19 Dyes) Combine) 128 4.3 to4.6). ferred dyeselectionsbythe users(asshowninfigures website andrecipecanbe predictedasperthepre- The aboveexportedexcel filecanuploadedonthe exported inexcelformatforuploadingittowebsite. with asingleclick.Thenmeasuredreadinghastobe eter headisplacedontargetsampleandmeasured For measurementofreflectancevalue,spectrophotom- mentioned terms. table lowcostspectrophotometerwhichsatisfiesall recommends Ionepro(AsshowninFigure4.2)por- Microsoft excel2003format.ForthispurposeWRA from 380-730nmattheintervalof10nm)in tometer whichcangive35reflectancevalues(ranging of targetshadecanbemeasuredbyanyspectropho- To predictrecipeforanytarget shadereflectancevalue Recipe Predicationwith prepared andwillbeuploadedbytothecurrentwebsite. fore moredatabaseaspertheusersrequestwillbe preparation anduploadingiscontinuousprocess.There- dyestuff databaseaspertheirrequirement.Database recipe foranytargetshadeusingreadilyavailable get shadebyusingonlinedatabase.Userscanpredict Formulation allowsuserstopredictrecipeforanytar- 4.2.1. Formulation Quality Controloption. WRACOLOURMATCH has 4.2 Components ofwww.wracolourmatch.com replacing obsoletedyeswithnewones. is updatingthedatabasewithcorrecteddyestrength, Time (RFT)andRightEvery Time (RET)dyeing WRA it inrecipeprediction.ThereforetoenhanceRightFirst relative strengthrelationofnewsupplybutdonotuse carried outaftergapofmonths.Mostuserscompute Figure 4.2:IoneProSpectrophotometer&Itssoftware for measurementofsamplereflectancevalue WRACOLOURMATCH: both Formulationand MANAGEMENT Sept -Oct2013 Sept -Oct2013 shade (figure4.6)along withcolourdifference, After dyestuffselectionuser gets10recipesfortarget dyes fromthedatabasefile(asshowninfigure4.5). selecting databasefiletheyhavetoselectrequired their substrateanddyestuffrequirements.Thenafter yarn. Usershavetoselectthedatabasefileasper file onwooltop,polyesterblanketandwoollen As mentionedunder4.1.1thiswebsitehas12database MANAGEMENT Figure 4.5:SelectionofPrimarydatabasefile&dyes 4.4:Selectionoftargetshade(sample1)forrecipe (sample 1to4) Figure 4.3:Uploadingoftargetshades for recipeprediction prediction WRACOLOURMATCH Figure 129 also beassessedbyusingQCoption. TL84. Reflectancecurveofstandardandbatchcan Da, Dbunderthreedifferent illuminantsi.e.D65, A, two samplesbyDEcmc2:1equationaswellDL, option, userscanmeasurecolourdifferencebetween tile substratebeforedyeing.Byusingqualitycontrol measure whitenessindexandyellownessoftex- difference betweenstandardandbatchsampleto Quality controloptionisprovidedtofindoutcolour below. predicted combinationandcostoftherecipeasshown metameric index,reflectancecurveofstandardand Figure 4.7:SelectionofstandardandbatchforQuality Textsmile a The time is Man 1: Cool,howmuchdiditcost? Man 2: Afterbuyingthisnewhearingaid,I Man 1: Figure 4.6:Recipesfortargetshade(sample1) blocks away. am abletohearsomethingtwo 4.2.2. QualityControl control assessment three pastten

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association able colourmatchingserviceiseffectivelyworkingand known shadewithwiderangeofdyestuff.Thisafford- Annual UsageFeestogetinstantrecipeforanyun- will justhavetobuyalowcostspectrophotometerplus with reasonableannualUsageFees.Dyehouseuser WRACOLOURMATCH serviceis and willbereadilyavailabletousersonwebsite. WRA Labwillupdatethedatabasefromtimeto currently onlybeingusedbylargeprocesshouses. use oflatestcolourpredictiontechnologywhichare medium scaleindustrieswhichwillbeabletomake colour matchingserviceisverybeneficialforsmall& based applicationisveryfastinpredictingrecipe.Online subscription forWRACOLOURMATCH.web This where ifprovidedwithPortablespectrophotometerand get instantrecipeforanyshadetimeand to websiteandthereforeitisavailable24x7.Onecan matching service,colourmatchingsoftwareisuploaded and mediumdyehousesinIndia.Inonlinecolour database ofdyes.Thisisaprohibitivecostforsmall matching andcorrectionhastodevelopacomplete trophotometer andColourMatchingSoftwarefor (CCM), onehastobuyafullCCMSystemwithSpec- In conventionalComputerColourMatchingSystem 5. Conclusion Figure 4.8:Qualitycontrolassessmentandreflectance graph ofstandard&batch audience forstrengthening Connecting youwith right business promotion very affordable 130 .RonnierLuoM., 7. GangakhedkarN.S., 6. Wilfred Ingamells, 5. ChristieR.M., 4. GupteV.C., 3. Roderick McDonald, 2. XinJ.H., 1. References Infotech, Pondicherryfortheirhelp&support. Ravichandran (PraveenColourscanSystems)and Auro sistent guidanceandhelp. We arealsothankfulMr. P. rector, ComputeSpectraColorPvt.Ltd.)forhiscon- like toacknowledgeDr. NarendraGangakhedkar(Di- by Ministryof Textiles, GovernmentofIndia. We would in thedecentralizedsectorofcountry"sponsored Matching FacilityforSmallandMediumDyeHouses R &Dproject"DevelopmentofInternetBasedColor WRACOLOURMATCH serviceis Acknowledgements 6. step. it bringsasimplecolourmatchingsolutionatyourdoor- .GilbertJ.M.,Dago 8. tion andRelatedTopic ing 150-157, (1993) Dyers andColourists, West Yorkshire England, (2001) Society ofChemistry, CambridgeUK,13-44, Ltd. ,Mumbai,133-257,(2008) niques &Application shire England,1-55,(1997) try England, 5-10,(2006) tiles ogy , SocietyofDyersandColourists, West York- , RutuPrakashan,Mumbai,8-42,(2003) . , Woodhead PublishingLimited,Cambridge 121 (5),147,(2005) Total ColourManagementinTex- Colour Technology Tools, Tech- Colour Chemistry Review ofProgress inColora- Colour fortextiles Colour PhysicsforIndus- , ColourPublicationPvt. Computer Colourmatch- , 32 MANAGEMENT Colouration Technol- (6), 28,(2002) developed undera Sept -Oct2013 , The Royal , The , Societyof ❑ erage. Theaveragerangewillbeusedtoestimatethe individuals chartisourestimateofthepopulationav- the processisinstatisticalcontrol,averageon must begiventowhentheresultswillmeasured. If While rationalsubgroupingdoesnotapply, thought amines variationinindividualsampleresultsovertime. on afrequentbasis.Theindividualscontrolchartex- for monitoringprocesseswheredataarenotavailable individual samples.Theindividualschartisveryuseful chart isforthemovingrange(R Sept -Oct2013 Email: [email protected] Punjab-144011 Dr. B.R. Ambedkar NationalInstituteof Technology, Jalandhar, of TextileDepartment Technology, Subhankar Maity * chart isfortheindividualsampleresult(x variables controlcharts,itisactuallytwocharts.One that canbeusedwithvariablesdata.Likemostother The individualscontrolchartisatypeof 2. IndividualsControlCharts these consequenceshasbeennotedhere. description aboutsomeofthesecontrolchartswith detecting smallshiftofvariabilityintheprocess.Short this areaofcontrolchartswithsomenewfeatures by traditionalbasis[3-4].Butthereareadvancesin Control chartsforattributesandvariableswereused control chartslikeotherindustries[1-2].Shewhart service. Textile industryalsoadoptedandimplemented trol theprocessvariationstoobtainqualityproductor Statistical ControlChartsareusefultostudyandcon- 1. Introduction MANAGEMENT All correspondenceshouldbeaddressedto, Individual controlchart,ZoneCUSUM,EWMA, Textile industry Keywords illustration. The analysishasbeendone illustrations ineachcase.Somedataarecollectedfromtextileindustryandsomeassumedherefor have beendiscussed.Usesofthesecontrolchartsintextileindustryandresearcharesitedwithnumerical control chart,andEWMAchart.Theoreticalaspectsofthesechartswithmeritsdemerits This paperdealswithsomeadvancedcontrolchartssuchasIndividualchart,ZoneCUSUM Abstract Department ofTextile Technology, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar NationalInstituteofTechnology The Application of Advanced Control of Advanced The Application i ) betweensuccessive Charts in Charts Textiles i ). Theother by MINITAB 15software. Subhankar Maity* 131 tical table.Here,atn=2observations lines plottedare: For thecontrolchartforindividualmeasurements, the movingrange. can plotboththedata(whichareindividuals)and the data. Analogous totheShewhartcontrolchart,one difference betweentwoconsecutivedatapoints)of It istheabsolutevalueoffirstdifference(e.g., The valueof of populationstandarddeviationfromaveragerange. vations. is theaverageofallmovingrangestwoobser- Where, Centre Line= The movingrangeisdefinedas sive observationstomeasuretheprocessvariability. sample size=1,usethemovingrangeoftwosucces- Control chartsforindividualmeasurements,e.g.,the population standarddeviationasshownbelow[5-7], samples. Thisrepresents"short-term" variation[5-7]. tion isthevariationin rangesbetweensuccessive variation intheprocess.The secondsourceofvaria- individual sampleresults.Thisrepresents"long-term" variation. Onesourceofvariationisthein The individualscontrolchartisamethodoflooking at x LCL = UCL= MR d istheaverageofallindividualsand(MR) 2 isanarbitraryconstantusedforestimation i = (x d x 2 x canbeobtainedfromstandardstatis- x d d +3 -3 i -x i - 1 MR MR ) 2 2 d 2 =1.128.

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association wipes Table 2.1:Resultofweightmeasurement ofpackswet 2.1. results offirst10consecutivepacksareshownin Table each andeverysinglepackofwetwipes.Theweight installed inthemachinelinewhichweighandreports packs, anautomaticweightmeasurementsystemis 50 gm.Inordertomonitorthemassvariationofthese tains 20piecesofwetwipeshavingnominalweight wet wipesfromspunlacenonwoven.Eachpackcon- individual observations. A convertermachineproduces The followingexampleillustratesthecontrolchartfor 2.2 Illustration1 is verypoor[5,13]. ity oftheindividualscontrolcharttodetectsmallshifts formation aboutashiftinprocessvariability. Theabil- range individualchartcannotreallyprovideusefulin- for rationalsubgroupingisavailable.Butthemoving tured canbeanalyzed.Itisalsousedwherenobasis measurement technologyisused.Everyunitmanufac- This chartisusefulwhereautomatedinspectionand Chart 2.1 UtilityandlimitationsofIndividualControl Textsmile mlyr:We Employer : plcn Sir, yoursearch endshere, in my Applicant : 05. 1.5 52.1 Average 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 xi mass(gm) 1 Number Batch sible... went wrong, they saidIamRespon- previous job,whenever anything is Responsible. 361.2 0.2 x 1.4 3.4 53.6 3.5 52.4 1.4 52.6 2.3 51.2 2 47.8 - 51.3 49.9 47.6 49.6 need someoneforthisJob,who =5.1MR = 1.8778 =50.81 MR Moving Range 132 the processisoutofcontrol. Thecumulativesumisset weight assignedtozone4, thisistakenasasignalthat When acumulativesumis equaltoorgreaterthanthe for pointsonthesameside ofthecenterlineareadded. mean. Weights areassigned mean, andzone4asvalues3 at thein-controlmeanvalueand3 that itremainsincontrol.Thischarthasacenterline used inmonitoringthemeanofaprocesstoensure The basicShewhartcontrolchartisacommontool 3. ZoneChart or LCL. none oftheplottedpointsfalloutsideeither Figure 2.1showsthattheprocessisincontrol,since zone 3isdefinedasvaluesbetween2 defined asvaluesbetween1 defined asvalueswithin1 A zonechartisdividedintofourzones.Zone1 is indicators intheShewartchart. for automaticsignalingofthefollowingout-of-control The conceptbehindthezonecontrolchartistoallow beyond the3 control conditionifanyobservedsamplemeanfalls side ofthecenterline.Thechartsignalsanout-of- LCL= CentreLine= UCL= This yieldstheparametersbelow: Figure 2.1:MINITAB ofmass outputofindividualchart

x -3 x + s 1.128 limits. MR 1.128 3MR x of wetwipepacket

= 50.81-3 = 50.81

= 50.81+3

s to thefourzones. Weights ofthemean,zone2is s and2

MANAGEMENT s 1.128 1.8778

ormorefromthe

18778 1.128 s limitsoneither s s Sept -Oct2013

and3 ofthemean,

= 55.8041 = 45.8159 s ofthe UCL .Eightconsecutivepointsfallingonthesamesideof 4. Fouroffivesuccessivepointsfallingoutsidethe 3. Two ofthreesuccessivepointsfallingoutsidethe 2. Apointfallingoutsidethe3 1. sented graphicallyatbelowinfigure3.1. following situationsappears.Thearerepre- The processsignalsoutofcontrolwhenanythe 3.1 InterpretationofZonecontrolchart[14] when thenextplottedpointcrossescenterline[7-9]. equal to0aftersignalingaprocessoutofcontrol,or Sept -Oct2013 of averageGSMfortwoconsecutive shifts(16Hours) sample andaverageGSM wascalculated. All results hour. 10measurementsofGSMweredonefor each lected fromproductionline afteranintervalofone PV7030P1040). Fabricsampleswererandomlycol- Panoli, Gujrat(LotNo.O119901, productcode: collected fromR&DDepartmentofGinniNonwovens, fabric isshownin Table 3.1.Theseareoriginaldata, Test resultsofaverageGSMspunlacenonwoven 3.3 Illustration2 cess. it islittlecomplicatedtostudyandinterpretthepro- maintain thequality. Onlydifficulty ofthischartisthat be detectedquicklyandprocesscanmodifiedto the processtowardshighershiftfromcentrallimitcan tected moreefficiently andcategorically. Any trendin The shiftofprocessmeanandvariabilitycanbede- 3.2 UtilityandlimitationsofZonechart MANAGEMENT the centerline. 1 2 s s limitsononesideofthecenterline, limitsonthesamesideofcenterline. Figure 3.1:InterpretationofZonechart s limits, 133 Table 3.1: Test resultsofNonwovenGSM control. for decisionofoutcontrol. So,processwaswithin 12 fallsoutside2 It canbeseenfromFigure3.2thatthoughsampleno in table3.1. dard deviationisestimatedfrommeanrangeasshown MINITAB 15softwareasshowninfigure3.2.Stan- 40. Zonechartofmeanhasbeenplottedwith has beenshowninTable 3.1. The nominalGSMwas 40.14 39.36 39.39 9 39.66 0.768913 8 40.68 7 39.83 40.235 Deviation 6 38.69 5 39.11 Mean 4 40.84 3 GSM 2 1 A no Sample 641.25 40.35 39.70 16 40.05 15 42.51 14 41.09 13 41.11 12 11 10 Figure 3.2:ZonechartofNonwovenGSM verage s limits;noneoftherulesis satisfied rn S Grand tandard

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association value was40. GSM fromtargetedmeanvalue.The a CUSUMcontrolcharttodetectthesmallshift of have beenshownintable4.1. We needtoformulate culated. ThetestresultsofaverageGSMfor25samples measurements weredoneandaverageGSMwascal- for gsmmeasurement.Fromeachfabricsample10 lected randomlyfromproductionlineaftereach1hour code: PV7535P1040).Thefabricsampleswerecol- Nonwovens, Panoli,Gujrat(LotNo.O118901, product practical data,collectedfromR&DDepartmentofGinni nonwoven fabricisshownin Table 4.1. These are end products.Test resultsofaverageGSM ofspunlace very importantwhichotherwiseaffectsthequalityof ConsistencyinGSMofspunlacenonwovenfabricis 4.1 Illustration3 the processmeandecreases[4,7,10,12]. points willeventuallydriftupwards,andviceversaif the process-meanshiftsupward,chartedCUSUM variation inarandompatterncenteredaboutzero.If sample, Where, formed byplottingoneofthefollowingquantities: Then thecumulativesum(CUSUM)controlchartis each ofsizen,andcomputethemeansample. CUSUM worksasfollows:Letuscollectmsamples, to detectshiftsinthemeanthatare2 better thanShewhartcontrolchartswhenitisdesired a process.CUSUMcontrolchartsshowsthattheyare more efficientindetectingsmallshiftsthemeanof operate asShewhartcharts,havebeenshowntobe CUSUM charts,whilenotasintuitiveandsimpleto 4. CUSUMControlCharts control centeredat age. Ineithercase,aslongtheprocessremainsin is usuallydeterminedbythestatisticalsoftwarepack- The choiceofwhichthesetwoquantitiesisplotted of thesamplemeans. and s x istheknown(orestimated)standarddeviation m m 0 =samplenumber, istheestimate/targetofin-controlmean s x , theCUSUMplotwillshow x i istheaverageofi s orless. th 134 spunlace nonwovenfabric Table 4.1:CUSUMChart ofgsmdata25samples i GSM(xi) (i) Sr.no. 33.14 00 5.2 5.29 -0.09 1.25 40 40 39.91 40 41.25 13 12 39.7 10 64. 0085.62 4.82 3.17 0.8 2.67 40 1.65 0.5 3.62 3.97 40 40 40.8 -0.95 -0.35 40 41.65 26 0.5 3.87 40.5 40 25 4.56 40 39.05 24 4.3 40 -0.69 39.65 23 3.94 0.26 40.5 40 22 4.88 0.36 39.6 40 21 4.74 -0.94 40 39.31 20 0.14 40 40.26 19 -0.46 40 40.36 18 40 39.06 17 40.14 16 39.54 15 14 14.54 .54.04 0.35 40 40.35 11 00 000 3.99 3.94 1.43 0.05 2.51 40 -0.77 1.09 40 -0.91 1.11 40 40.05 -0.27 0.14 40 42.51 9 0.34 -0.64 40 41.09 8 0.68 -0.61 40 41.11 7 -0.34 40 40.14 6 0.68 40 39.36 5 40 39.39 4 39.66 3 40.68 2 1 amn T Garment Figure 4.1:CUSUMcontrol chart re x arget -0.3 -0.4 i 4 Cumulativesum -40 MANAGEMENT

Si=(xi-40)+Si-1 Sept -Oct2013 0.34 3.69 3.47 The originpointofthe superimposed onthegraphofcumulativesums. overlay shapeintheformofa form ofthe a processisoutofcontrol.Moreoften,thetabular as the A visualprocedureproposedbyBarnardin1959,known control 4.2 V-Mask usedtodetermineifprocessisoutof methods isthe V-mask procedure. mask andtubularCUSUM.Theolderofthesetwo to devisingcontrollimitsforCUSUMSsuchas V- it lackscontrollimits.Therearetwogeneralapproaches The graphinFigure4.1isnotacontrolchartbecause Sept -Oct2013 Mask From thediagramitisclearthatbehaviorof might havecausedtheprocesstogooutofcontrol. of-control situation.Thisisusefulfordiagnosingwhat we candeterminethefirstpointthatsignaledanout- origin pointcoversothercumulativesumdatapoints, arm. Byslidingthe situation becauseofthepointthatliesaboveupper In figure4.2,the with thesame angle) asthedesignparameters, andwewouldendup more commonintheliterature, we couldalsospecify are thedesignparametersof slope ofthelowerarm)andrisedistance control [10]. Figure 4.2)theprocessissuspectedofbeingout control. Otherwise(evenifonepointliesoutsidein points liebetweenthesidesof below thesidesof past pointsareexaminedtoseeifanyfallaboveor placed ontopofthelatestcumulativesumpointand MANAGEMENT Figure 4.2:IllustrationofVmaskCUSUMchart isdeterminedbythedistance V-Mask , issometimesusedtodeterminewhether V-Mask ispreferred. A V-Mask V-Mask V-Mask d V. As longasalltheprevious . andthevertexangle(or, asis V-Mask showsanoutofcontrol backwardssothatthe q V onitssidethatis (seeFigure4.2)is =1/2ofthevertex V, theprocessisin V-Mask k (whichisthe V-Mask isan . Notethat h . These V- 135 with equal to40.General chart with V-mask fortarget valueofmeanGSM Same datasetofIllustration3isusedhereforCUSUM 4.3 Illustration4 (0.5) and and 3 sigmacriteriausedinastandardShewhartchart), Generally, wechoose illustrated above,istochoose the A generalruleofthumbifonechoosestodesignwith detect ashiftaslarge1sigma,whichsets We candesigna a sheet approach,wewilllookbrieflyatanexampleof V-Mask unless youhavestatisticalsoftwarethatautomatesthe sheet styleprocedureshownbelowismorepractical, Mask In practice,designingandmanuallyconstructinga on thefollowingequations: The valuesof d b a approach wemustspecify an Texttreasure (et):theamountofshiftinprocessmean : (delta) that won'twork." I havenotfailed.I'vejustfound10,000ways V-Mask alpha h b k and isacomplicatedprocedure. A CUSUMspread- =0.01.Finally, wedecidewanttoquickly equalstohalfthe methodology. Beforedescribingthespread-

h d 2 k = =dk = and ingraphform. the the probabilityofnotdetectingthata : theprobabilityofafalsealarm,i.e., : h k tobearound4or5. approach,insteadofthe curred, whileinfactitdidnot, cluding thatashiftintheprocesshasoc- data points(whicharethesamplemeans). multiple ofthestandarddeviation that wewishtodetect,expressedasa curred, and shift intheprocessmeanhas,fact,oc- ds d 2 2 h

beta x and l

V-Mask n (1-

designapproach.Forthelatter a k h arerelatedto a and b ) d = 0.0027(equivalenttothe± using shift(0.5)and - Thomas Alva Edison k approachisadoptedhere k h tobehalfthe and a a , k and orwecanuse b , and h eul o4. equalsto b method d d d based =1. shift con- V-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association equal to50. constructed withV-mask fortargetvalueofmeanGSM evaluated foreachsamples. A CUSUMcharthasbeen were madeforeachcaseandaverageGSMwas samples hasbeenshownintable4.2.10observations PV3565P1050. Test resultofaverageGSM12 here forLotNo.O-119201, Productcode- Another studyofthesamenonwovenlineisillustrated 4.4 Illustration5 between thesidesof below thesidesof past pointsareexaminedtoseeifanyfallaboveor placed ontopofthelatestcumulativesumpointand The originpointofthe Table 4.2:NonwovenGSMmeasurement Figure 4.3: CUSUM chart with Figure 4.3:CUSUMchart V-mask ofnonwoven GSM, processmeansdriftinlowerside 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 GSM Nonwoven 2 1 Sample no. 12 V . As alltheprevious pointslie V-Mask (seeFigure4.3)is V , theprocessisincontrol. 51.26 49.46 49.88 49.87 49.51 50.34 49.66 47.74 49.68 48.85 49.42 51.50 136 s The observationsofCUSUM are H=10 asthedecisioninterval. reference valueand process targetis99,andwewilluseK=1asthe below dataofnonwovenGSMmeasurement.The ThetabularCUSUMisillustratedbyapplyingittothe 4.6 Illustration6 of theshift, Where, thestartingvalues s m of themeancorrespondingtoout-of-controlstate, These quantitiesarecalculatedfrom: Let computer [10]. larly attractivewhentheCUSUMisimplementedona CUSUM, issuperior. The tabularprocedureisparticu- The otherapproachtoCUSUMcontrol,thetabular 4.5 Tabular CUSUM sen abouthalfwaybetweenthetarget K Or, and control limit. cess isincontrol,asnoneofpointsareoutsidethe process meansdriftbelowthetargetvalue,pro- shown inFigure4.4.Itcanbeseenthatthoughthe GSM hasbeenconstructedbyMinitab15softwareas The CUSUMcontrolchartwithVmaskofNonwonen H L 1 iscalledthereferencevalue,whichusuallycho- (1)= Figure 4.4:CUSUMchartwithVmaskfornonwoven (1)= = S Y m S H 0 L (i) + (i) max s s GSM, processmeansdriftinlowerside S beanupperone-sidedCUSUMforperiod bealowerone-sidedCUSUMforperiod max H H (i) (i)

That is,Kisaboutone-halfthemagnitude [0, S// [0,98- = = /2. x max i max -100+ x 1 + [0( [0,( s s L H (0)]= m (0)]= x 0 i - ) ( s H m K (0)= max 0 )-( + max K MANAGEMENT x [0,102.0-100+0]=2.0 i ) + ) +s [0,98-102.0_0]=0 s L Y Sept -Oct2013 m (0)=0 s H 0 L and thevalue ( ( i-1 i -1)] )] i i . the processand,ofcourse, thedegreeof'trueness' depends solelyonthemost recentmeasurementfrom ing thestateofcontrol theprocessatanytime, Shewhart chartcontroltechnique, thedecisionregard- data astheyarefurtherremovedintime.Forthe the datainawaythatgivessomeimportancetoold is astatisticformonitoringtheprocessthataverages The Exponentially Weighted Moving Average (EWMA) 5. EWMAControlCharts the V-mask[10]. chart canbedetectedeasilybychangeintheslope of mean thatare2 trol chartswhenitisdesiredtodetectshiftsinthe CUSUM controlchartsarebetterthanShewhartcon- 4.7 UtilityandlimitationsofCUSUMChart conclude thattheprocessisincontrol. ceed thedecisionintervalH=10. We wouldtherefore Notice thattheCUSUMSinthisexampleneverex- Table 4.3: Test result andanalysisof Tabular CUSUM Sept -Oct2013 Observation 011110- 0 0 -3 0 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 101 1.7 0 20 97.2 0.3 1.4 0 19 101.4 0.3 18 100.3 0 0 -3 1 17 96.7 -2 16 97 1.1 1 15 98.4 0 1.1 14 101.1 1.3 0 0 0 13 98.7 1.3 -4 12 101.3 0 11 98.1 1 100 10 0 0 2 97.7 9 -4 8 2 98.5 799 1 102 6 -1 -1 0 2 98.4 0 5 00 98.3 4 2 94.8 3 Xi-100 102 2 Xi 1 (i) MANAGEMENT 280008081 0.8 0.8 2 0 2.3 0 1.3 -2.8 00 0 -0.4 0 00 0 -0.7 -3.3 0 00 0 1 -0.1 -1.6 0.3 0 0 0.3 -1.3 0 0 00 3 -1.9 -0.5 2 0 2.5 1 2 -0.4 -2.3 2.9 3.2 0.5 -0.3 0 3.2 -1.5 0 0 0 0 -1.6 0 -1.7 -5.2 s pe u LowerSum Upper Sum orless.Smallshiftsinthecontrol Hi nH SH(i) 3400 -3.4 00 -2.3 00 -3.1 00 -3.3 nL SL(i) 98-Xi t , 137 cess average.TheEWMA chartincorporatesinforma- that providesaquickerresponse toashiftinthepro- chart) isanalternativetothe individualsorX-barchart The exponentiallyweighted movingaverage(EWMA 5.1 UtilityandLimitationsofEWMAChart would havetobecompletedfirst[10-11]. were collected.Ifnot,thentheusualPhase1work provided theprocesswasincontrolwhendata database, theprocesscanentermonitoringstage, and standarddeviationhavebeencalculatedfromthis representative oftheprocess.Oncemeanvalue depends onadatabaseofmeasurementsthataretruly As withallcontrolprocedures,theEWMAprocedure tored includingEWMA where 0 where thefactor LCL =EWMA or EWMA The centerlineforthecontrolchartistargetvalue calculated fromthehistoricaldata. when EWMA The statisticthatiscalculatedis: act whenthelastdatapointisoutsideacontrollimit. whereas theShewhartcontrolprocedurecanonlyre- sensitive toasmallorgradualdriftintheprocess, factor, most recentmeasurement.Bythechoiceofweighting tially weightedaverageofallpriordata,includingthe pends ontheEWMAstatistic,whichisanexponen- For theEWMAcontroltechnique,decisionde- the estimatesofcontrollimitsfromhistoricaldata. Shewhart chart).Thus,alargevalueof measurement influencestheEWMA(degradesto A valueof data enterintothecalculationofEWMAstatistic. The parameter memory oftheEWMA. UCL =EWMA s proximately The estimatedvarianceoftheEWMAstatisticisap- although thischoiceissomewhatarbitrary. data. Thevalueof data; asmallvalueof more weighttorecentdataandlessolder 2 ewma l < 1isaconstantthatdeterminesthedepthof =( t l isnotsmall,wheresthestandarddeviation t Y n EWMA = , theEWMA controlprocedurecanbemade isthenumberofobservationstobemoni- l t istheobservationattime 0 /(2- l . Thecontrollimitsare: l Y t l +(1- = 1impliesthatonlythemostrecent l 0 ) 0 0 isthemeanofhistoricaldata(target) - + k s determines therateatwhich'older' canbesetequalto3for l 2 ks is usuallysetbetween0.2and0.3 ks ewma l ewma 0 l ) EWMA gives moreweighttoolder t-1 fort=1,2,..., t l = 1gives s limit. n .

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association are givenby 0.1111 andthesquareroot=0.3333. The controllimits Table 5.1:nonwovenGSMdata of25samples culated fromhistoricaldata: consider aprocesswiththefollowingparameterscal- To illustratetheconstructionofanEWMA controlchart, in figure5.1. spunlace nonwovenfabric(table5.1)hasbeenshown EWMA chartofonlinegsmmeasurementdata 5.2 Illustration7 last datapointisoutsideacontrollimit[7,10,15]. Shewhart controlprocedurecanonlyreactwhenthe small orgradualdriftintheprocess,whereas EWMA controlprocedurecanbemadesensitivetoa subgroup. Bythechoiceofweightingfactor, tion fromallprevioussubgroups,notonlythecurrent with l chosen tobe0.2sothat LCL =102-3(0.3333)×1101 UCL =102+3(0.3333)×1103 EWMA 6 5 4 GSM 3 2 1 Sample no. 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 0 s =102 =1 l/ 100.50 103.50 102.75 101.00 100.75 100.00 102.25 104.75 103.75 102.00 100.00 102.00 101.50 102.00 101.50 102.75 103.50 101.50 101.75 102.00 101.25 100.50 101.00 106.25 100.75 (2- l ) =0.2/1.8 l, the 138 procedure canbemadesensitive toasmallorgradual to detectshiftsinthemeanthatare2 better thanShewhartcontrolchartswhenitisdesired ing smallshiftsinthemeanofaprocess.Theyare the process.CUSUMchartismoreefficientindetect- This chartislittlecomplicatedtostudyandinterpret ity canbedetectedmoreefficiently andcategorically. Shewart chart.Theshiftofprocessmeanandvariabil- ing ofthefollowingout-of-controlindicatorsin the zonecontrolchartistoallowforautomaticsignal- rational sub-groupingisavailable.Theconceptbehind can beanalyzed.Itisalsousedwherenobasisfor surement technologyisused.Everyunitmanufactured chart isusefulwhereautomatedinspectionandmea- looking atshorttermandlongvariation.This sample resultsovertime.Thischartisamethodof quent basis.Thischartexaminesvariationinindividual ing processeswheredataarenotavailableonafre- The individualcontrolchartisveryusefulformonitor- able todetectsmallshiftofvariabilityintheprocess. Advanced controlchartswithsomenewfeaturesare of detectingsmallshiftvariabilityintheprocess. which wereusedbytraditionalbasisarenotefficient Shewhart Controlchartsforattributesandvariables 6. Conclusions all EWMAtliebetweenthecontrollimits. The charttellsusthattheprocessisincontrolbecause the choiceofweightingfactor, quicker responsetoashift intheprocessaverage.By tive totheindividualsor X-bar chartthatprovidesa to olddatawithrecentdata.Thischartisanalterna- erages thedatainawaythatgivessomeimportance chart isastatisticformonitoringtheprocessthatav- change intheslopeof V-mask. EWMA control shifts inthecontrolchartcanbedetectedeasilyby Figure 5.1:EWMAchartofnonwovenGSM l MANAGEMENT , theEWMA control s Sept -Oct2013 orless.Small .AhmadM.S.,Javed I., Ahmad M.,NaeemH.M. 3. BeckwithO.P., 2. .EnginA.B., 4. Anwar A., RochmanD.D.,Proceeding, 1. References outside acontrollimit procedure canonlyreactwhenthelastdatapointis drift intheprocess,whereasShewhartcontrol Sept -Oct2013 .Spiegel, M.R.,Stephens,L.J., 7. Anon,Online Available at: http:// 6. .Montgomery, D.C., 5. MANAGEMENT & SarwarM., 319, (1944),doi:10.1177/004051754401401005 cember 10th-11th, A20, (2009). Management tional SeminaronIndustrialEngineeringand (2008). line Series,Mcgraw-Hill,New York, pp481-490, lems ofStatistics www.spcforexcel.com/individuals-control-charts. Edition, USA,(2009). Quality Control (2004), DOI:10.1081/QEN-120038023. , InnaKutaBeachHotel,Bali,De- Quality Engineering Pak. J.Agli.Sci , John Wiley &Sons,Inc.,Sixth , FourthEdition,Schaum'sOut- Textile Research Journal Introduction toStatistical ., Theory And Prob- And Theory 29 (1), 25,(1992). , 16 (4), 625, Interna- , 14 , 139 1 LucasJ.M.,Saccucci,M.S., 11. DavisR.B.,Homer A., Woodall W.H., 9. CézováE.,ZoneControlChart, 8. 5 Maroš T., VladimírB,Caner T. M., 15. LeafG.A.V., 14. LeeP.H., Huang Y.H., Kuo T.I., Wang C.C., 13. Walpole, R.E.,Myers,R.H.,S.L.,& Ye 12. 0 Montgomery, D.C.,Runger, G.C., 10. (2002). & Sons,Inc.,USA,ThirdEdition,pp596-644, tics andProbability forEngineers Theory Meth (2008). search Journal ter, pp30-49,(1987). , PartII,The Industry Textile Institute,Manches- 011-9627-6 Quant Edition, pp697-722,(2007). Scientists K., 32 (1), 1,(1990). Probability &Statistics ForEngineers& , 47 , PearsonEducationLtd.,London8th , 1803,(2013)DOI10.1007/s11135- . Practical Statistics fortheTextile 19 , 81 (5), 1581,(1990). (13), 1344,(2011). Tec Hnometrics ROBUST Applied Statis- , John Wiley Textile Re- ❑ Statist.- , JÈMF Qual ,

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Email: [email protected] Coimbatore -641014 The SouthIndia Textile Research Association (SITRA), Dr. K.P.Chellamani kg) wasexported(intheformofyarn)(Table 2.1). 10 was3080millionkg[1]ofwhich(about589 The totalproductionofcottonyarnintheyear2009- sumption 2.1.1 Cottonyarnrequirements fordomesticcon- 2.1 Cottonrequirementsfortheyear2016-17 17 (PartI) 2. QuantitativeRequirementsofCottonby2016- this report. cotton fordifferentcountgroupsarealsoillustratedin requirements ofcotton.Thequality the year2016-17andPartIIcoversqualitative Part Idealswithquantitativerequirementsofcottonin (2012-2017). Thereportisdividedintotwoparts. cotton requirementsinthe12thfiveyearplanperiod this report,anattempthasbeenmadetoprojectthe India tobecomeself-sufficientassumesignificance.In and theextentofincreaseincottonyieldrequiredfor In thelightofthis,futurerequirementscotton attributes meetingtherequirementsofforeignbuyers). creasing theexportofIndiancottonyarns(withquality Globalisation hasyieldedbetteropportunitiesforin- 1. Introduction * All correspondenceshouldbeaddressedto, Quantitative andQualitativeRequirementsofCotton hectare Clothing exports,Cottonyarn,Domesticconsumption,Cultivatedarea,Qualityrequirementsand Yield per Key words looms arealsobrieflytoucheduponinthisreport. required quantityofcotton.Thequalityrequirementscottontoproduceyarnsmeantforhighspeed are alsomadewithreferencetocultivatedareaandyieldperhectarethatwillbeneededproducethe cotton requirementshavebeenprojectedforthe12thfiveyearplanperiod(2012-13to2016-17).Projections With thisinview, thecottonyarnrequirementsforexportanddomesticconsumptioncorresponding The anticipatedtotaltextilesandclothingexportsfromIndiaintheyear2016-17willbearound$45billion. Abstract in the12thFive Year PlanPeriod K.P. Chellamani*,R.S. Vignesh Balaji&J.Sudharsan The SouthIndiaTextile Research Association (SITRA) 140 was aroundRs.30,409crores [1].Ofthis,thevalue and fabrics(cotton,man-made andothermaterials) In theyear2009-10,total valueofexportyarn 2.1.2 Cottonyarnrequirements forexport * Refer Appendix I. 2247 millionkg. mestic consumptionintheyear2016-17willamount to Hence, thetotalcottonyarnrequirementfordo- exhibit amoderateincreaseof5%-6%peryear. made outofindigenous,cottons,couldbeassumed to the domesticconsumptionofcottonyarns&fabrics by theimports.Therefore,asaconservativeestimate, 6% -8%peryear. However, apartofthiswillbemet RMG, etc)could beexpectedtoincreaseattherateof sumption ofcottonyarns(intheformyarns,fabrics, purchase poweroftheconsumers,domesticcon- Due toglobalisationandtheanticipatedincreasein tic consumptionamountedtoabout1521millionkg. During 2009-10thecottonyarnsmeantfordomes- *RMG- Readymadegarments 2009 -10(Millionkg) Table 2.1:Cottonyarnfor export during .Made-ups RMG* Fabrics 4. Yarns3. 2. 1. Exportintheformof Sr.no. Total MANAGEMENT Sept -Oct2013 1558.87 441.03 281.63 247.19 589.02 Quantity export by2016-17willbe 625 millionkg. fabric export,theanticipatedquantityofcotton of 1.8**betweenthevalueandquantitycotton 17 willbe$2.25billion. Assuming aconversion factor The anticipatedvalueofcottonfabricexportby2016- export 2.1.2.2 Cottonyarnrequirements forcottonfabric export by2016-17willbe1512millionkg. yarn exported,theanticipatedquantityofcotton of 1240*betweenthevalueandquantitycotton 17 willbe$3.75billion. Assuming aconversionfactor The anticipatedvalueofcottonyarnexportby2016- 2.1.2.1 Cottonyarnrequirements foryarnexport year 2016-17hasbeenworkedout. will berequiredformanufacturingexportitemsinthe On theabovebasis,quantumofcottonyarnthat 17, rate forobviousreasons).Therefore,bytheyear2016- made-ups exportisexpectedtoincreaseatafaster export andRMG/made-upsexport,sincethe will befor$30billion.(Aratioof1:2yarn/fabrics exports willbefor$15billionandRMG/made-ups the 12thfiveyearplanperiod).Ofthis,yarns/fabrics be intheregionof$45billion(interminalyear doubled i.e.thetotaltextilesandclothingexportswill It isanticipatedthatin2016-17,thiswillberoughly ing exportsduring2009-10wasaround$23.4billion. alone workedoutto80%.Thetotaltextilesandcloth- ume ofcottonRMG/made-ups, to around70%(Rs.44,480crores).Ofthetotalvol- value ofcottonRMG/made-upsaloneamounted 2009-10 wasaroundRs.62,495crores.Ofthis,the ups (allinclusive)andRMGintheyear 25%; cottonfabric:15%].Thevalueofexportmade- out toroughly40%[Rs.12,086crores:cottonyarn: of exportcottonyarnandfabricsaloneworked Sept -Oct2013 ◆ ◆ MANAGEMENT The valueofcottonfabricsexportwillbe$2.25 The valueofcottonyarnexportwillbe$3.75 $4.2 billion. alone willbe$16.8billionandcottonmade-ups port). Ofthis,thevalueofexportscottonRMG $21 billion(70%oftotalRMG/made-upsex- value ofcottonRMG/made-upsexportwillbe billion (15%oftotalyarn/fabricsexport)andthe billion (25%oftotalyarn/fabricsexport) 141 2.3. on theoverallcottonyarnproduction aregivenin Table The ratiosofcottonyarnproductionindifferentcounts production 2.1.3 Cottonrequirements for 100%cottonyarn 2016-17 Table 2.2:Quantumofcottonyarnrequirements during break-up ofwhichisgivenin Table 2.2. the year2016-17willbearound6284millionkg, the domesticconsumptionaswellforexportsin Hence, thetotalprojectedcottonyarnrequirementfor Appendix II-D Refer Appendix II-C,@Refer * Refer Appendix II-A,**Refer Appendix II-B,# kg. cotton made-upsexportby2016-17willbe875million cotton made-upsexport,theanticipatedquantityof factor of2400@betweenthevalueandquantity 2016-17 willbe$4.2billion. Assuming aconversion The anticipatedvalueofcottonmade-upsexportby ups export 2.1.2.4 Cottonyarnrequirements forcottonmade- 1025 millionkg. quantity ofcottonRMGexportby2016-17willbe ing anaverageweightof200g/piece,theanticipated export by2016-17willbe RMG export,theanticipatedquantityofcotton of 1640#betweenthevalueandquantitycotton 17 willbe$16.8billion. Assuming aconversionfactor The anticipatedvalueofcottonRMGexportby2016- export 2.1.2.3 Cottonyarnrequirements forcottonRMG Overall total (ii) Domesticconsumption Total - Made-ups RMG - - Fabrics Yarn- (i) Exportintheformof Particulars 5122 millionpieces. Assum- 6284 2247 4037 875 1025 625 1512 Quantity (inmillionkg)

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Table 2.5. of Cottonin2009-10"[2] andthesamearegivenin report on"QualitativeandQuantitativeRequirements out basedinthedetailsprovidedSITRA'searlier production indifferentcountgroupshavebeenworked The ratiosofcombedyarnonthetotalcotton assumed as70%. 50% wasteandcotton;theyarnrealization is Note :Forcounts1s-10s,themixingwillconsist of Table 2.4: Yarn production indifferent countgroups andthecorresponding cottonrequirements intheyear 2016-17 (keeping 2009-10figuresasbase) Table 2.3:Cottonyarnproduction indifferent countgroups Inlakhbales Inmillionkg Combed Y the year2016-17arecalculatedandgivenin Table 2.4. counts andthecorrespondingcottonrequirementsfor On theabovebasis,yarnproductionindifferent .81sandfiner 61s-80s 7. 41s-60s 6. 31s-40s 5. 21s-30s 4. 20s - 11s 3. 10s - 1s 2. % on 1. groups Count S. no. (1 bale=170kg) for Carded Yarn 11 Cotton requirements 1001.04 Combed Yarn Carded Yarn production 11 Total cottonyarn Particulars requirement Total cotton Count r 5. 8. 928.1 380.4 158.9 arn 7. 39528. 0676542531097499.9 150.9 295.3 665.4 2046.7 81.1 2088.2 1379.5 51.4 873.9 1. 9. 1 999.1 715.0 1 1s-10s 1.23 1112.27 12.27 3.0903 7.8210 59 06 3971.17 10.68 65.98 201.09 877.88 980.30 834.20 7.7635 1.6316 5.59.52312.83 96.15 153.95 301.63 718.26 653.54 278.07 1s-20s total production 25.4 26.0 1.7 3.5 8.0 17.7 17.7 2. 2. 911. 8.9 17.4 39.1 120.4 122.8 1-0 1-0 1-0 1-0 1 ie T 81s&finer 61s-80s 41s-60s 31s-40s 21s-30s 638 561 0.2299 0.36284.00 106.83 219.93 502.72 1596.14 1633.84 160.1 0394162901873270.6 138.7 219.0 431.6 1013.9 0282387. 224229.3 12.2 76.3 233.8 1032.8 142 made forworkingoutthecottonrequirementscarded groups, asgivenin Table 2.4. The otherassumptions quantity ofcardedandcombedyarnsindifferentcount Details givenin Table 2.5wereusedtoworkoutthe year 2016-17hasbeenprojected at435millionkgof rate of6%,thecottonblended yarnproductioninthe was around4%[1,3-5]. Assuming ahigher growth period from1999-2000to 2009-2010, thegrowthrate was around305millionkg.Duringthelast10year Cotton blendedyarnproductionintheyear2009-10 duction 2.1.4 Cottonrequirements forblendedyarnpro- Table 4)aregivenin Appendix III. and combedyarnsfordifferentcounts(asgiven in yarn productionindifferentcountgroups Table 2.5:Combedyarnproduction asa%oftotalcotton .81sandfiner 61s-80s 41s-60s 7. 31s-40s 6. 21s-30s 5. 11s -20s 4. 1s-10s 3. % of 2. 1. groups Count S. no. (Quantity inmillionkg) MANAGEMENT Sept -Oct2013 combed yarn 90 70 60 45 40 25 10 441.1 otal of cottonrequiredforthesameinyear2016-17 Table 2.6:Cottonblendedyarnproduction andthequantum in Table2.6. quired forthecottonblendedyarnproductionisgiven acrylic, cotton/wooletc.Thequantumofcottonre- will bearound10%,andtheremainingcotton/ this, cotton/polyesterwillbeabout80%,cotton/viscose Sept -Oct2013 push, thegrowthoftechnical textilesindustrycan If thegovernmentintervenes bywayofregulatory per yeartill2020withoutanypolicyinterventions. per yeartill2012-13andislikelytogrowat6%8% products. This segmentisexpectedtogrowby11% pected togoinfortheproductionoftechnicaltextile to come,moremanufacturesinIndiacouldbeex- pected tocropupforthetechnicaltextilesinyears However, inviewofthehigherdemandthatisex- quantum oftechnicaltextilesaccountsfor7%to8%. Of thetotaltextilegoodsmanufacturedatpresent, nical textiles 2.1.5 Cottonrequirements formanufacturingtech- Note: Keepingthe2009-10figuresasbase. Lakhbales Millionkg % 708. 80- 88.0 170 kg) 88.0 (1 bale= 77.0 requirement Total cotton 80 (%) component of cotton 80 realisation Yarn yarn 50 the blended cotton in Weight of (%) in theyarn of cotton Proportion production Total yarn Particulars MANAGEMENT 7. 483. 243.6 34.8 34.8 174.0 435.0 43.5 43.5 348.0 95 .3350 17.95 2.33 305.08 39.54 2.33 13.29 39.54 226.00 W Cotton/Acrylic Viscose Cotton/ Polyester Cotton / T ype of Yarn o t.T ool etc. (Million kg) - otal 143 in Table2.8. Cotton requirementsfordifferentcountgroupsaregiven the 12thfiveyearplanperiod Table 2.7: Year-wise break-up ofcottonrequirement during textiles andblendedyarns, thecountgroups31s-40s Of the40lakhbalesrequired forproducingtechnical during the12thfiveyearplanperiod Table 2.8:Cottonrequirements fordifferent countgroups given in Table 2.7. requirement duringthe12thfiveyearplanperiodis about 481lakhbales. Year-wise break-upofcotton as welltechnicaltextilesintheyear2016-17willbe turing yarn(100%cottonandblendedyarn) The totalquantumofcottonrequirementformanufac- 2.1.6 Total cottonrequirement manufacture willbearound22lakhbales. Hence, thecottonrequirementfortechnicaltextiles facture, themajorshareisfromman-madefibres). pected tobearound5%(inthetechnicaltextilemanu- made outofcotton/cottonblendedyarncanbeex- total textilemanufacture.Ofthis,thetechnicaltextiles by 2016-17couldbeexpectedtoaround20%ofthe Therefore, thetechnicaltextilemanufacturinginIndia be intheregionof12%to15%peryeartill2020. .8sad707480848.9 8.4 8.0 7.4 7.0 51.4 81sand 7. 61s-80s 48.5 6. 41s-60s 46.0 5. 31s-40s 4. 43.3 21s-30s 3. Quantityrequired(lakhbales) 11s-20s 40.6 2. 10s - 1s 1. No.groups Count Sr. Total rn.Year Sr.no. 2016-17 2015-16 5 2014-15 4 2013-14 3 2012-13 2 1 finer 381. 591. 17.4 59.1 16.7 56.3 15.9 140.4 53.2 122.8 81.1 14.7 133.0 116.4 50.0 125.7 76.8 13.8 110.5 118.3 47.0 72.6 104.0 111.0 68.3 97.5 64.1 2016-17 2015-16 2014-15 2013-14 2012-13 8. 0. 3. 5. 481.1 456.1 431.9 406.0 381.0 Cotton requirement(lakhbales) 481 456 432 406 381

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association past 60years(Figure3.1)orso. represents a5to10foldperformanceincreaseinthe case ofairjetloomsareattainedtodayinpracticewhich of multiphaseloomsandaround2500m/min.Inthe Weft insertionratesofaround5000m/min.inthecase 3.1 Highspeedloomsintheweavingindustry 3. QualitativeRequirementsofCotton(Part-II) year 2016-17 quired tomeettheprojectedcottonrequirementsfor Table 2.9:Cultivatedarea andtheyieldper hectare re- ments aregiveninTable 2.9. are toberealisedmeettheprojectedcottonrequire- lakh bales.Thearearequiredandtheyieldperhect- by about63%from295lakhbalesin2009-10to481 year 2016-17,thecottonproductionhastobeincreased In ordertomeettheprojectedyarnproductionin quired toproduce theprojected quantityofcotton 2.1.7 Cultivatedarea andyieldperhectare re- and 41s-60swillaccountfor20lakhbaleseach. il e etr Cultivatedarea (kg) Yield perhectare Figure 3.1:Maximumweft insertion rates 700 650 600 550 500 in differenttypesoflooms (million hectares) 11.68 12.58 13.63 14.87 16.35 144 speed looms(coneyarns)aregivein Table 3.1. research laboratories,yarnqualityrequirementsforhigh As perstudiesconductedatSITRA[7]andother meant forhighspeedlooms 3.2 Qualityrequirementsofcottonstoproduceyarns Air-conditioningoftheloomshedandprovision 5. Weaving machine(actinggentlerontheyarn, Sizing(improvedsizingagents,wetsplitting,etc). 4. Warp preparation(moreuniformyarntension). 3. 2. Yarn quality(improvedregularitywithfewerweak 1. are, Major factorscontributingtohigherweavingspeeds fabrics atcompetitiveprices. vital forthemanufactureoflonglengthfault-free introduction ofhi-techweavingmachines,whichare pockets ofthecountryasameanstoaccelerate Hi-tech weavingparksarebeingset-upindifferent stringent andthemarketcompetitionisstiffer[6]. of thefactthatfabricqualityrequirementsare Indian weavingindustryisgainingmomentuminview high speedshuttleloomsandshuttlelesslooms)inthe The paceofintroductionhi-techlooms(automatic for highspeedlooms(coneyarns) Table 3.1:Suggestedvaluesofyarnqualityrequirements .Nra mefcin 2 5 300 150 Extrasensitive 5. 125 Normal imperfections 4. .Objectionablefaults 7. S3Value 6. 20 10 20 9 8.50 18 Breakingelongation 3. CVofRKM(%) 2. 80sC RKM(g/tex) 60s C 1. 40sC no. characteristics Quality Sr. .Ln hnfut/ahm1 522 15 10 Longthinfaults/lakhm 9. Long thickfaults 8. for appropriatedustextractionsystems. tems). electronic warplet-offandback-restrollersys- smaller sheds,improvedweftguidingandbraking, spots). /lakh m /lakh m imperfections/km. /km. (%) 5 0 650 700 750 0010 1500 1200 1000 .550 4.75 5.00 5.25 1.0orbelow 1.0orbelow MANAGEMENT Sept -Oct2013 3.2. per thestudiesconductedatSITRA aregiveninTable in differentcountsforIndianandimportedcottonsas a givenprocessset-up. Values ofelongationachieved pared totheirIndiancounterpartsinagivencountfor the tuneof1.0%to1.5%(absolutevalues)ascom- Imported cottonsgenerallyexhibithigherelongationto 3.2.1.1 Breaking elongation Indian yarns 3.2.1 Measures toimprove theaveragequalityof Hairiness(S3value)ofIndianyarnsishigherby 2. ThebreakingelongationofIndianyarnsislower 1. following: SITRA membermills(leavingexceptions),showsthe average qualityofyarnsthatarebeingachievedbythe A Comparisonofthevaluesgivenin Table 3.1withthe hairiness tester. per 100mlengthofyarnmeasuredusingZweigle Note: S3-No.ofhairswithlength3mm&above Sept -Oct2013 ues aregiveninTable 3.3. some oftheimportedandIndiancottonsval- yarn elongationandfibrequalitywascarriedoutfor To understandthereasonsforsame,ananalysisof and importedcottonsspunintodifferentcounts Table 3.2: Values ofyarnelongationfor someoftheIndian MANAGEMENT Texttreasure ancut(e Elongation(%) (Ne) Yarncount This isthewaytosuccess." idea, andjustleaveevery otherideaalone. ofyourbody,every part befullofthat that idea.Letthebrain,muscles,nerves, your life-thinkofit,dream ofit,liveon "Take uponeidea.Makethatidea 25 to50%. by 0.75to1.0%(absolutevalues). 100 80 60 Indian cotton Imported cotton Imported Indian cotton - SwamiVivekananda 4.60 4.78 5.79 5.87 5.64 6.99 145 Indian cottons Table 3.3: Yarn elongationandCPIYEfor and imported respective differenceinCPIYE values. values exhibitedbythem could beexplainedbythe process parameters,thedifference inyarnelongation imported), whenspunintoagivencountusingsame ues. Foranytwocottons(whetherindigenous or explained bytherespectivedifferenceinCPIYEval- given countandinaprocesssituationisfully elongation betweenimportedandIndiancottonsin a It isclearfrom Table 3.3thatthedifference inyarn Where, yarn elongationandthesameisgivenby, CPIYE isdefinedasthecottonpropensityindexfor .Brahma 6. USPima 5. DCH32 4. Russian 3. DCH32 2. Russian in 1. value elongation Yarn no. Cotton Sr. E=Fibreelongation(%) = Bundlestrengthofcotton(g/tex) = Fibrefineness(µg/inch)and 2.5%Spanlengthofcotton(mm) = = value Mic. FE FS FL (Indian) (Imported) (Indian) (Imported) (Indian) (Imported) CPIYE =------% elongation (%) .4593. 32.0 354 32.0 4.00 519 12.0 515 5.84 16.0 4.20 580 22.0 485 5.00 22.0 4.60 621 5.99 Shortfibrecontentbyweight in = instrument comber slivermeasuredusing AFIS SFC(W) Mic. valueXSFC(W) FLxFSFE Spindle speed(rpm):18,000 PY ifrneDifference Difference CPIYE Yarn count(Ne):60 motdandIndian and Indian impo imported between 5~6 (5~6) (5 ~6) (3~4) (3 ~4) (1~2) (1 ~2) cottons (%) aninCPIYE yarn cottons between rted

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association and importedcottons Table 3.4: Yarn hairinessandCPIYHvaluesofsomeIndian and importedcottons. values aregivenin Table 3.4forsomeoftheIndian value) andthecorrespondingdifferenceinCPIYH counts. Thedifferenceinyarnhairinessvalues(S3 to theirIndiancounterparts,by2550%indifferent Imported cottonsexhibitlowerhairinessascompared 3.2.1.2 Hairiness & lowershortfibrecontentaretobedeveloped. yarns, cottonswithhigherelongation,strength Therefore, inordertoimproveelongationofIndian Where, FL yarn hairinessandthesameisgivenby, CPIYH isdefinedasthecottonpropensityindexfor .MCU5 5. USPima 4. Brahma 3. Russian 2. Brahma 1. (S Y no. Cotton Sr. .USPima 6. L=2.5%Spanlengthofcotton(mm) Short = fibre = SFC (W) =Fibrefineness(µg/Inch)and Mic. value FL (Imported) (Imported) (Imported) Ida)955 (Indian) (Indian) (Indian) CPIYH =------4 0.35 645 6 0.44 763 0.54 0.93 858 43% 1258 46% 0.61 1201 arn hairiness 3 value) sliver measuredusing AFIS instrument Yarn Count(Ne):60 Mic. valuexSFC(W) Spindle Speed(rpm):18,000 CPIYH .72. 23.0 20.0 0.57 in value content byweightincomber ifrneDifference Difference hairiness motdcottons (%) imported i Indian and between cottons (%) 2042.0 (3~4) (3 ~4) 32.0 (1~2) (1 ~2) 5~6 (5~6) (5 ~6) aninCPIYH yarn Indian and between mported 146 Table 3.5:SFC(n)insomeoftheIndianandforeigncottons yarns forhighspeedlooms)aregivenin Table 3.6. tons fordifferentcountgroups(withaviewtoproduce SITRA's tentativesuggestionsforthequalityofcot- 3.2.2 Qualityofcottonsfordifferent countgroups counterparts (Table 3.5). higher by10%to20%ascomparedtheirimported At present,theshortfibrecontentinIndiancottonsis are tobedeveloped. in Indianyarns,cottonswithlowershortfibrecontent CPIYH values.Therefore,inordertoreducehairiness be largelyattributedtotherespectivedifferencein ence inhairinessvaluesexhibitedbytheyarnscould given countusingsameprocessparameters,thediffer- (whether indigenousorimported),whenspunintoa difference inCPIYHvalues.Foranytwocottons cess situationislargelyexplainedbytherespective between Indianandimportedcottonsinagivenpro- Table 3.4indicatesthat thedifference inyarnhairiness Your Gateway to theGlobal 9 20Gz 819.5 Giza 88 SFC(n) 42.0 Variety cotton Imported V 797 SFC(n) Variety Indian cotton C 08Gz 622.3 Giza 86 29.5 DCH 32 32.3 30.8 Brahma MCU 5 S4 & Apparel 35.3 Textile Russian MANAGEMENT Sept -Oct2013 24.2 Table 3.6:Qualityofcottonsfor different countgroups Sept -Oct2013 ◆ ◆ ◆ varieties ofIndiancottons Table 3.7:Guidelinevaluesfor trashcontentindifferent of Indiancottonsaregivenin Table 3.7. Guide linevaluesfortrashcontentindifferentvarieties 4. SummaryofConclusions MANAGEMENT .8sad35-38 and 81s 8. .6s-8s33 - 35 -ICCmodeinHVI 31 - 33 29 - 31 (SFC(n)-tested 61s-80s 28 - 29 7. 51s-60s 25 - 27 6. 41s-50s 25 - 22 5. 21 -22 31s-40s 4. 21s-30s (mm) 3. 20s - 11s 2. 10s - 1s 1. Short 2.5%Spanlength no. Count group Sr. Extra longstaple(2.5%span length 20 to 24.5 mm) 4 to 6 to 4 less than20mm) Short staple(2.5%spanlength length 20to24.5mm) Medium staple(2.5%span 3 to 2 3 to 5 (2.5% spanlength25-32mm) Long andmediumlongstaple length above32.5mm) Category requirement forproducing cottonblendedyarns lakh balesduringtheyear 2016-17.Thecotton export ofcottongoodsboth willamountto441 yarns fordomesticconsumptionaswellthe The cottonrequirementforthemanufactureof 1900 millionkg. yarn forRMG/cottonmade-upsexportswillbe be 2137millionkg.Therequirementofcotton For exportintheformofyarnandfabricsitwill for domesticconsumptionalone2247millionkg. 2016-17 willbe6284millionkgofwhich The totalcottonyarnrequirementfortheyear around $45billion. from Indiaintheyear2016-17isexpectedtobe The valueoftotaltextilesandclothingexports finer T 6 to 8 rash content(%) sn FSIsrmn)Ts sse (%) system Test Instrument) using AFIS ir otn Tenacity fibre content 18-20 18-20 29 - 30 - 29 29 - 28 27 - 26 26 - 25 24 - 23 18-20 22-24 22-24 22-24 24-26 24-26 24-26 147 .ChellamaniK.P., RatnamT.V, and Indra 2. Official Indian Textile Statistics, publishedby The 1. References Director, SITRA forhiskeeninterestinthisstudy. The authorsarethankfultoDr. Prakash Vasudevan, 5. Acknowledgement ◆ ◆ .CompendiumofInternational Textile Statistics, 5. Compendiumof Textile Statistics publishedby The 4. Official Indian Textile Statistics, publishedby The 3. Doraiswamy, ernment ofIndia,Mumbai2010. Textile Commissioner, Ministryof Textiles, Gov- are dealtwithinthisreport. measures toimprovethequalityofIndianyarns yarns suitableforhighspeedloomsaswell The qualityrequirementsofcottonstoproduce million hectaresforanyieldof700kg/hectare. hectares foranyieldof550kg/hectareor11.68 cotton requirementswillbearound14.87million The cultivatedarearequiredtomeettheprojected will beanother22lakhbales. production oftechnicaltextiles,therequirement etc. willbearound18lakhbales;whereasforthe like cotton/polyester, cotton/viscose,cotton/acrylic, of Textiles, GovernmentofIndia,Mumbai,(2004). published by The Textile Commissioner, Ministry ernment ofIndia,Mumbai,(2003). Textile Commissioner, Ministryof Textiles, Gov- ernment ofIndia,Mumbai(2007). Textile Commissioner, Ministryof Textiles, Gov- (July, 2005). 30 - 32 - 30 20 - 22 - 20 18 18 - 20 gtx raigMic.value Breaking (g/tex) SITRA Research Report . . 3.5-3.8 7.0 -7.5 . . 3.7-4.0 7.0 -7.5 3.8-4.2 6.5 -7.0 3.8-4.2 6.5 -7.0 3.8-4.2 6.5 -7.0 3.8-4.2 6.0 -6.5 4.0-5.0 6.0 -6.5 . . 4.5-5.5 6.0 -6.5 elongation (µg/inch) , 50 (2),

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association years andtheyaregiveninTable A. export (millionkg)hasbeenworkedoutforthelast 7 yarn export(Rsinlakhs)andtheweightofcotton Yarn A) Cotton Yarn RequirementforExportinthe Form of RMG andMade-Ups Requirement forExportinTheFormof Yarn/Fabrics, Assumptions Madefor Arriving attheCotton Yarn APPENDIX -II ◆ ◆ EXPORT IN THE YEAR 2009-10 THE COTTON YARN REQUIREMENT FOR ASSUMPTIONS MADEFOR ARRIVING AT APPENDIX -I ChellamaniK.P., KumarV.J and Vitopa M.K, 7. ChellamaniK.P., DebasisChattopadhyayand 6. ◆ ◆ is availableinthepublishedliterature. For cottonmade-ups,theexactquantityexported export hasbeencalculated. 200 g/pieceofRMG, thequantityofcottonRMG in theliterature. Assuming anaverageweightof and thenumberofpiecesexportedareavailable For cottonRMG, thevalueofexport(Rsinlakhs) fabric exportinyear2009-10. has beenusedtoarriveatthequantityofcotton (Rs inlakhs)intoquantity(tons)ofexport.This converting thevalueofexportcottonfabrics 2003, SITRAhasarrivedataratioof1.8for years 1999-2000,2000-2001,2001-2002&2002- value (Rsinlakhs)andquantity(tons)forthe the figuresofcottonfabricexportinterms the literatureforyearsfrom2003-04.Using quantity intermsoflength(sq.m)areavailable For cottonfabric,thevalueofexportand available inpublishedliteratures. For cottonyarn,theexactquantityexportedis SITRA Research , Report SITRA Publication,Coimbatore,(2004) & Techno-Economicsof Ramesh Kumar T.P, Yarn QualityRequirements The ratiobetweenthevalueofcotton 51 Shuttleless (4),(June,2006) Looms. 148 and theweightofcottonyarnexport Table A: The ratiobetweenthevalueofcottonyarnexport and theweightofcottonfabricexport Table B: The ratiobetweenthevalueofcottonfabricexport given in Table B. (tons) hasbeenworkedoutfor4yearsandtheyare (Rs inlakhs)andtheweightofcottonfabricexport The ratiobetweenthevalueofcottonfabricexport Cotton Fabric B) Cotton Yarn Requirement forExportintheFormof APPENDIX -II(Cont…) of cottonyarnexport(millionkg). value ofcottonyarnexport(Rsinlakhs)intotheweight A ratioof1240hasbeenassumedforconvertingthe 6 yearsandtheyaregiven in Table C. export (millionnos.)hasbeen workedoutforthepast (Rs inlakhs)andthenumber ofpiecescottonRMG The ratiobetweenthevalueofcottonRMGexport Cotton RMG C) Cotton Yarn RequirementforExportintheFormof APPENDIX -II(Contd.) fabric export. value ofcottonfabricexportintoweight A ratioof1.8hasbeenassumedforconvertingthe 2009-10 2008-09 2007-08 7 2006-07 6 2005-06 5 2004-05 4 2003-04 3 2 Year 1 Sr.no. 2002-2003 2001-2002 2000-2001 4 1999-2000 3 2 Year 1 Sr.no. Average Average MANAGEMENT Sept -Oct2013 Ratio 1.80 1.81 1.80 1.77 1.82 1189.1 1156.70 Ratio 1237.85 1296.46 1243.70 1234.1 1258.2 1286.7 and thenumberofpiecescottonRMGexport Table C: The ratiobetweenthevalueofcottonRMG export Sept -Oct2013 export andtheweightofcottonmade-ups Table D: The ratiobetweenthevalueofcottonmade-ups groups aregivenin Table E. values assumedincottons meantfordifferentcount 1. Forcalculatingthecotton requirements,the%trash by 2016-17 Assumption madeforworkingoutcottonRequirements APPENDIX -III cotton made-upsexport. value ofcottonmade-upsexportintotheweight of A ratioof2400hasbeenassumedforconvertingthe and theyaregiveninTable D. (million kg)hasbeenworkedoutforthepast6years (Rs inlakhs)andtheweightofcottonmade-upsexport The ratiobetweenthevalueofcottonmade-upsexport Cotton Made-Ups D) Cotton Yarn RequirementforExportintheFormof APPENDIX -II(Cont…) of cottonRMGexport. value ofcottonRMGexportintothenumberpieces A ratioof1640hasbeenassumedforconvertingthe MANAGEMENT rn.Year Sr.no. 091 2712.77 2175.02 2239.56 2009-10 2503.85 2008-09 2620.45 2006-07 2143.08 6 2005-06 5 2004-05 4 2003-04 3 2 Year 1 Sr.no. 1678.60 1619.58 1652.52 2009-10 1680.45 2008-09 1575.01 2007-08 1636.29 6 2006-07 5 2005-06 4 2004-05 3 2 1 Average Average 2399.12 Ratio 1640.41 Ratio 149 =%combernoil,and %trashinmixing, = W = C W t Where, combed counts Table F:Comber noil(%)for countgroups different Table E: Trash (%)incottonsfor differentcountgroups YR% =(100---tW and YR% =97.5---tW the yarnrealization(YR)istakenasfollows: 3. Inthecaseofcardedcountsandcombedcounts, APPENDIX -III(Cont..) in Table F. from cottonsmeantfordifferentcountgroupsaregiven 2. Theassumedvaluesofthecombernoilextracted h k r o on rusCombernoilextraction Countgroups no. Sr. .81 80 - 61 60 - 41 7. 40 - 31 6. 30 - 21 5. 11 20 - 4. 10 - 1 3. 2. 1. Sr. no. Count groups (Ne) Trash (%) Trash Countgroups(Ne) Sr. no. 7. 6. 5. 4. 3. 2. 1. =%yarnwaste = %cardwaste, = (Ne) & Finer 1 ie 3.0 81& Finer 61 -80 41 -60 31 -40 21 -30 11 -20 1 -10 k ) [1---C/100]---Wh---2.5for k ---W h forcardedcounts 18.0 18.0 16.0 16.0 (%) 20.0 12.0 10.0 4.0 4.5 4.5 5.0 7.0 6.0 ❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Tirupati(A.P), IOB-Annur Br, Coimbatore. Tirupati Devastanam (TTD)in "Annadhanam" ComplexofTirumala textile millsinAhmedabad, the Ludhiana, RustomMills,Ahmedabad,two Vardhman Textile Group ofMills- experience asaCostAuditorfor (ICAI MembershipNo:7250).Hehasan He isacertifiedCostAuditorinpractice ment Analysisetc. Model, ControlCharts,CapitalInvest- tation Model,EquipmentReplacement ear Programming, Transpor- PERT/CPM, Operations Managementtoolslike,Lin- Textile Mills.Heisgoodatapplication of Output ReconciliationofRawMaterialin Inventory ControlSystemandInput- Selection, ShortTerm Profit Planning, trol System,CostRecords,ProductMix He hasimprovisedM.I.S,BudgetaryCon- Trainee). Scientific Officer, BinnyLtd(Technical ager (M.I.S),ATIRA (1976-79)asSr. NTC (MP)Ltd(1979-80)asDy. Man- in 1983-1989.Hehasalsoworked vices OfficerinRustomMillsAhmadabad tion ManagementcumSer- zania fromFeb1989-Dec1991,Produc- Project ManagerinSunflag, Arusha, Tan- (Nairobi) fromFeb2005-April2006, 1996-April 2002,G.M. in Ace KnitLtd Khan Group Co.(Tanzania) from May March 2003,G.M. inIPSLtd-An Aga Rwanda(Central Africa)fromMay2002- cludes, G.M (Technical) inUtexrwa- Lagos, Nigeria.Hispastexperiencein- (operations) atBhojrajChanraiGroup, last postheldwasthatofaDirector Management Accountantsince2010.His HeisengagedasaPractisingCostand ing. allel experienceinPlasticManufactur- Textiles Manufacturingandtwoyearspar- has avastexperienceofthirtyyearsin nance), M.Tech (Textile Technology). He qualifications includeFCMA,MBA(Fi- wide workexperience.Hiseducational effective utilizationofresourceswitha is anexpertinCostReductionthrough gust 1952,currentlylivesinChennai.He Mr. S.Srinivasanwasbornon15th Au- S. Srinivasan =1,500Kg supplying unit Receipt inFeb2012from the =200 Kg(waitingforS.T.Winding) Op.stock inS.T.Winding Dept Stage (A) Month: Feb2012: illustrative figures. onciliation isgivenbelowwithsome for theInput/Outputi.e.(I/O)rec- The methodadoptedbytheSTD -output forthoseactivities. (b) to(d)anditreconcilesitsinput trol theactivitiessaidaboveinitems The STDentityhasunderitscon- ferred. ing depts.forthequantitytrans- acknowledgement fromthereceiv- All theissuingdeptartmentsget 160gm (S.T.yarn weightonly). should haveastandardweightof STPs. voices.-measurement in S.T. Godownforsalesasperin- ber ofSTPsand(d)Issuefrom S.T.Godown-measurement innum- ber ofSTPsmade,(c)Receiptat output measuredintermsofnum- (b)Winding onS.T package(STP)- the S.T.Unit(Measurement inKg), vious unitandissuingthesameto normal(hard) packagesinthepre- (a)Rewinding ofdyedyarninto S.T.unit were: The processesinvolvedinthe packages. dyed-yarn onSewingThread(S.T) 'Cones' andtheoutputisdoubled- STD is'doubleddyedyarn'on independent unit.Theinputforthe ing ThreadDivision(STD)'asan A Compositetextileunithad'Sew- EachSTPofanycolour (Onfloor) 150 Input-Output Reconciliation number of (A casestudy) who deniedtheallegation as theI/ knowledge oftheHead of STD The matterwasbrought tothe doubt. moving outofit-wasneverin Go downandcheckingtheitems posted justattheGateofSTP tegrity oftheSecurityGuards some STPsarestolen.Butthein- Page-2 back frominsidersofSTDthat 10% .Therewasalsoasecretfeed- estimation ofshortagewasbyabout has beenless.Theapproximate meaning thelengthreceivedonSTP for stitching,getsfinishedfaster- of theSTPthatwhenused past afewmonthsfromthebuyers There havebeencomplaintsforthe = 9,000STP. Stage (D):Theinvoicedquantity =600 STP Cl.Stock =9,400 STP Receipt Op.Stock=200 STP Stage(C): At STP Godown process loss) =9,400 STP(=100+10,000-600-in Actual IssuetoSTPGodown =600 STP age) Cl.Stock (equivalenttofullpack- STP) =1,600 Kg=10,000STP(@160gm/ Receipt =100 STP package) Op.Stock (equivalenttostd.full itself. Stage (B):OnS.T.Winding M/c =1,600Kg Actual IssuetoS.T.Winding =100 Kg(waitingforS.T.Winding) Cl.Stock inS.T.Winding TEXPERIENCE Sept -Oct2013 160gm.It wasalsonoticed thattheactualweightwas average actualgm/STPwas only144asagainstthe of theyarnwoundon STP. Itwasfoundthatthe This madetheinvestigator toweightheactualweight mistakes. possibility whenthesupplierhasreallybeenmaking extra weightonSTPisruledoutasonlyaremote contradicts thecomplaintofshorterlengthsonSTP.Thus of STPwillresultinlongerlengthfromwhich more andbillforlesseramount.Furtheradditionalweight The surplusisnotpossibleasnosupplierwillsupply Kg) received. Net=1,742.4Kg whichismorethanactualKg(of1600 =17.6Kg(@176gm/STP), Less Op.Stockof100STP =1,654.4Kg (@176gm/STP), Plus, IssuedtoSTPGodownof9,400STP =105.6Kg, Cl.stock of600STP@176gm = Issue)weget Using theformula"Openingstock+Receipt-Cl.stock received fromthesupplyunitmustbe: But thenasperI/Ostatement,forStage-B,theqty out. find outastheGuardscheckonlyno:ofSTPgoing i.e. 176gm/STP)whichthesecurityguardscanNOT yarn andoffermorethan160gm/STP(say10% One possibilityofstealingtheS.T.Yarn istowindmore does notreflectabnormallossintheprocess? How cantherebe"stealing"whentheI/Ostatement Investigation: erything goingoninSTDisorder. The I/OStatementgavetheHODafeelingthatev- down. the Invoicedquantityandso"NoLoss"atSTPGo sales)=200+9400-600=9000 STPwhichmatcheswith StageC: ShouldbeissuefromSTPGodown(for of 100STP=100/9500=1.05% 600=9,500 STP.ButactualIssueis9.400i.e.loss StageB: ShouldbeissuetoSTPGodown=100+10,000- S.T.Winding 100=1600=Actual Issuei.ethereisnolossbefore Stage (A):Shouldbe-IssuetoSTWinding=200+1600- The lossof1.05%isarrivedasfollows: So itisNOTabnormal. The lossinprocessis1.05%whilethestandard1%- O reconciliationstatementdoesnotreflectshortages. Sept -Oct2013 TEXPERIENCE 151 sible. put oneachSTPforwhichSTDwillbeheldrespon- loss ofcustomerastheyget"cheated"inweightstobe STP havestartedcomingin.Ultimately, therewillbe But, complaintsonshortlengtharisingduetolessgms/ the lossisforcustomer. wt.on theSTP. Thus, STDdidnotloseanymoney. But STP buttheypaidthefullamount/STPassumingstd No! Thecustomeristoget160gm/STPbutgot144gms/ I/O ReconciliationStatement? Did theS.T.D lostanymoneyinaccepting thefaulty instead ofactualweights. wt.measure toequivalentno:ofitemsusingstdweights Bucket etc).Theerroroccurswhileconvertingfrom Gms/towel,Gms/Saree,Gms/Dhoti,Gms/Plastic are: Examples ofcaseswherestd,wtsareusedperpiece measures sayKg. using theirStd.wts. andtheinputtodept.isin Weight where numberofitemsisusedinthereconciliation per piece,ThisisapplicabletoallI/Oreconciliation tion shouldbebasedonactualandnotstandardweight done innumberofpiecestheInput/Outputreconcilia- The lessonlearntwasthatwhenmeasurementsare knowledge. from theS.T.Winding dept.itselfwithnotanybody's less about1.0%normallossi.e12STP)werestolen This indicatesthatabout1,200STP (i.e1,211 STPs Shortage=(10611-9400)=1,211= (11.4% onItem-X) 600=10,611----Item-X Should beissuetoSTP Godown=100+11,111- Actual IssuetoSTPGodown=9,400 Cl.Stock(equivalent tofullpackage)=600STP Receipt =1,600Kg=11,111 STP(@144gm/STP) Op.Stock (equivalenttofullpackage)=100STP Stage (B): on actualgm/STP: The correctI/Ostatementshouldreadasfollowsbased plains the"Stealing"-ifany? and thereforetherewascomplacency. Howthisex- brought outanyabnormalsituationforseveralmonths rarely checkedasthemonthlyI/Ostatementdidnot OnS.T.Winding M/c:

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association ied andchangingneedsof theindustry, atleastona difficult fortheconventional methodstomeetthevar- materials. Thesehavethrownupchallengesthatit is industry witheconomicandconsistentsuppliesofraw ment andtheneedtoprovidetoday'shigh-speedtextile sures onlanduse,growingconcernabouttheenviron- production processhasvariousdrawbackslike;pres- well over50%ofallworldtextileproductionbuttheir Cotton, wool,silkandothernaturalfibresaccountfor their wayintextileprocessing. manufacturing uptofinishing,biobasedproductsmake dent onpetroleum-basedingredients.Rightfromfibre earth-friendly thansyntheticsandarefarlessdepen- derived fromanaturalrenewableresource,aremore three foldmarketappeal;oneisthattheproductsare approach ismoreenvironmentalfriendlysoastoget in textileindustryservesreducingthepollution.This commercialized. Useofbiotechnologybasedproducts bio basedproductsareintopipelineandsomeeven production andprocessing. To achievethis,arangeof low-cost andeffectivebiotechnologysolutionsintextile in biotechnologyisleadingtoanescalatingnumberof In thelast20yearsadramaticriseininnovations .Cr ir fermentation, distillation and fibre Corn 1. Fibre Sr. No .Atfca pdrB rnfrigsl-rdcn ee V Bytransferringsilk-producinggenes Artificial spider 3. 6. Sea cell fibre Lyocell fibre + finely ground sea Home textiles Home Lyocell fibre+finelygroundsea fibre cell Sea 6. .Bacterial 5. Polylactic 4. Soyabeanprotein fibre Soyabean 2. Chapter 2.Bio-basedproducts andtheir applicationsin Textile dragline silk from spiders from dragline silk Cellulose throughfermentationofwheat,maize fibres acid Manasi A. Damle,MadhuraP. Nerurkar, RavindraV. Adivarekar oyeiaino ipepatsgr areas;canbeusedasbothwovenandnon- polymerization of a simple plant sugar; Mode ofmanufacture weeds lcnctbce,Rioim pcat papers usedtomakespecialisedfilters,odour Specialty Sarcina and Rhodobacter Agrobacterium, Gluconacetobacter, Rhizobium, and otherhydrocarbons Usedinsanitaryproductssuchasdiapers,etc obtained acid lactic of Polymerization goats and alfalfa detrose maize .Cl,yat ikom proofclothing,medicaltextiles,ropes, silkworm, yeast, Coli, E. 152 rides areaslistedbelow, mentation. Principlebacterial andfungalpolysaccha- plants orfrommicrobialculturesthroughmodeoffer- able polymers.Theseareeitherextractedfromhigher Polysaccharides arenatural,non-toxic,andbiodegrad- like Textiles, food,petroleum,andpharmaceuticals. commercial applicationsindifferentindustrialsectors erably inrecentyears,astheyarecandidatesformany The interestinpolysaccharideshasincreasedconsid- 2. Useofpolysaccharides enlisted intablebelow: Few novelfibersandtheirareaofapplicationare helps indevelopmentofnewfibersknownasBiofibers. duction andpropertiesofexistingfibresalsoit biosynthesis isofferingenhancedroutestomodifypro- Biotechnology throughuseofgeneticengineeringand 1. Biofibres gradability ofitsproducts. for improvedperformanceandrecyclabilityorbiode- dependence onnon-renewableoilresourcestotheneed facing comparablechallenges,rangingfromitscurrent realistic timescale.Thesyntheticfibreindustryisalso Applications aramids. absorbers andreinforcingblendswith Apparel wear, hometextilesandvaried other Undergarments, babyoutfits,towels, wovenfabrics. parachutes, seatbelts,etc. arious technicaltextileapplicationslike,bullet quilts andapparels and nonwovenswhichare Sept -Oct2013 TEXNOTE Sept -Oct2013 rnguaiaeAntishrink Transglutaminase 9 graphic andelectronicapplications. in tabletcoating,opthalmicsolutions,photographic,litho- release system,pharmaceuticalapplicationsincludeuse food, drugdeliveryvehicle,componentincontrolled in otherfieldssuchasthickenerorgellingagent besides textilefield,polysachharidesfindapplications providing controlledpenetrationduringprinting. Also and emulsioninksitcanalsobeusedfordyepigments suspending agentandstabilizerforbothwaterbased treatment, etc.Polysaccharidesarealsousedasa emulsifier biosorbent,bioflocculantincaseofeffluent as thickenersincaseofprintpasteformulation, In thetextilefield,polysachharidesareusedinsizing, TEXNOTE 2AiaeImproved Amidase 12 1Ntie yrts Improveddyeabilityandhydrophilicityto hydratase Nitrile Lipase 11 10 Antishrinkfinishtowool Protein disulphide Cellulase 8 Laccase 7 Protease 6 Catalase 5 Glucoseoxidase 4 Pectinase,Lipase 3 Amylase Pr 2 1 Enzymes Sr. No. ceolcnSclerotiumglutanicum Scleroglucan Pullulan Polysaccharide Xanthan Levan Hyaluronan Gellan Dextran Curdlan Alginate Polysaccharide isomerise Aureobasidium pullulans Fungi Bacillus subtilis Pseudomonas aeruginosa Sphingomonas paucimobilis Leuconostoc mesenteroides Alcaligens faecalis Azotobacter vinelandii Bacteria Xanthomonas Campestris Wet polyacrylonitrile fibres and effluenttreatment polyacrylonitrile fibres eumn fsl Soap Neutralisation with acid --- Biopolishing, Biostoning,Carbonizationofwool Biobleaching oflignincontainingfibers Degumming ofsilk Bleach cleanup Bleaching Scouring Desizing ocesses reduction ofPET dyeability andhydrophilicity to finish to wool Halogen derivatives Halogen finish towool 153 tors. colourants ofnaturaloriginisincreasingintextilesec- health problems.Thus,theworldwidedemandfor tagenic andcarcinogenicleadingtoseveralhuman dyes. Inaddition,manysyntheticdyesaretoxic,mu- algae sincelightabsorptionishinderedbysynthetic but alsocreatesproblemsforphotosyntheticplantsand not onlyaffectswatertransparencyinbodies of largeamounthighlycolouredwastewaterthat spectrum. However, thishasresultedinthedischarge technically advancedcolourscoveringthewholecolour synthesis, highstabilitytowardslight,temperatureand industries duetotheireaseandcost-effectivenessin Synthetic dyeshavebeenextensivelyusedintextile 4. Microbialdyes fabric preparation. lowing arelistofenzymesthatbeingstudiedfor hamper thefabricpropertieskeepingthemintact.Fol- cesses. Enzymesbeingtargetspecifictheydonot conventionally harshchemicalsusedforvariouspro- industry astheyhavethecapabilityofreplacing erties. Enzymesareconsideredtobeaboontextile hydrophilicity offabricandenhanceitscomfortprop- employ largeamountofchemicalsinordertoincrease Textile wetprocessingconsistsofprocesseswhich 3. Enzymes Hydrogen Peroxide Alakli Acid/ Alkali Alkali ------Conventional chemicalsused Halogen derivatives Halogen

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association these areenlistedbelow, bial pigmentsarebeingusedtodyetextiles.Someof going oninobtainingcolourantsformmicrobes.Micro- Extensive researchworkhasbeendoneandisstill Xanthomonas oryzaeisbeingusedasdiagnosticmarker. antitumoral, antiparasiticactivities.Xanthomonadinfrom their propertieslikeantioxidant,immunomodulatory, Janthinobacterium lividumfindapplicationsbecauseof Violacein fromChromobacteriumviolaceumand industries, CanthaxanthinfromHaloferaxalexandrines, b-carotene fromBlakesleatrispora.Inpharmaceutical Penicillium oxalicum,riboflavinfrom Ashbya gossypii, from Xanthophyllomycesdendrorhous,PinkRed are inmarketincludeMonascuspigments,astaxanthin pharma industry. Someofthefoodgradepigmentsthat Microbial pigmentsfindtheirapplicationinfoodand the producttomarket. and thesizeofcapitalinvestmentrequiredtobring its acceptabilityonthemarket,regulatoryapproval, any pigmentproducedbyfermentationdependsupon cifically monascins,violaceinorindigo.Thesuccessof carotenoids, melanins,flavins,quinones,andmorespe- ment yieldingmoleculesbymicroorganismsinclude able sourceforproductionofnaturalcolourants.Pig- such asbacteriaandfungiareconsideredavalu- biomass. To overcomethislimitation,microorganisms to theirlowyieldsandproductionoflargeamount production ofnaturalcolourantsisnotsustainabledue teria) arequitecommon.Howeveruseofplantsin pigment-producing microorganisms(fungi,yeasts,bac- Nature isrichincolours(minerals,plants,etc.),and .PigmentfromSerratiamarcescens prodigiosin from Vibrio spp Pigments showed dyeability towards silk and 7. SilkfabricsdyedwithRedshade 6. Carotenoidpigmentfromdifferentspeciesof Monascus from obtained Rubrapunctamine 5. Wool dyedwithreddishorangeshade Anthroquinone compounds obtained from Fusarium 2. 1. Chromophore Sr. No. .Janthinobacterium lividum 8. Mushrooms such as Ganoderma applanatum, cotton fabrics cotton Coriolus versicolourand Amanita muscaria Mushrooms suchasGanodermaapplanatum, purpureus oxysporum. 154 Protein disulphideisomerise, Transglutaminase areused acrylonitrile fabricsinordertoincreaseitsdyeability. hydratase areusedforsurfacemodificationofpoly- ter weightreductionisunderway. Amidase andNitrile and biostoningoffabrics.Studyonlipasesforpolyes- has beenappliedatcommerciallevelforbiopolishing Enzymes arealsousedasfinishingagents.Cellulase trum antimicrobialactivity. flower, etchavebeenreportedtopossessbroadspec- Pomegranate, Tea tree, Azuki beans,pricklychaff Molecules fromChitosan,Sericin,Neem, Aloe vera, bacterial, antifungal,antimalarialactivity. Alteromonas denitrificans,Hahella, Vibrio showanti- marcescens, Pseudomonas,Pseudoalteromonas, antibacterial properties.PigmentsfromSerratia luteoviolacea havebeenknowntoposses Antiviral, from Chromobacteriumviolaceum, Alteromonas or bacteria.Fewexamplesareasfollows:Pigments dye, naturalextractorsecondarymetabolitefromplant etc. Antimicrobial compoundcanrangefromnatural it providesprotectionagainstarangeofbacteria,fungi plication ofantimicrobialagenttothefabricsuchthat crobial finishtothefabric.Thisfinishinginvolvesap- vide protectionandmaintainbetterhygieneisantimi- One ofthemostimportantfinishesthathelpstopro- of protection,performanceandeasycareproperties. thetics andcomfortinapparel,aswellhigherlevels consumer ismorefinicky, demandingenhancedaes- properties canbeintroducedontothesubstrate. Today's Textile finishingprovides amethodwherebyspecific 5. Finishingagents Acrylic, polyester microfiber, polyester, silk and Colour obtainedonfabric Dark bluecolouronNylon andvinylon Bluish-purple colouronsilk, cottonandwool cotton usingtamarindasmordant Dye wool,nylon,acrylicsandsilkwithredshade Sept -Oct2013 TEXNOTE lus oryzae,Rhizopusoligosporus,etc. areusedforthe Phanerochaete chrysosporium, Panustigrinus, Aspergil- Nitrobacter spp.,etc.Fungi likeRhizopusoligosporus, include Brocadiaanammoxidans, Nitrosomonasspp., Bacteria thathavebeenstudiedforeffluenttreatment suspended materialthusensuringaclearoutflow. include protozoaandrotifers.Theyconsumeanyloose tions. Higherlifeformsinthewastewatertreatment compounds) tonitriteandnitrateunderaerobiccondi- breakdown ofproteinsandothernitrogenrichorganic present inthewastewaterorisproducedfrom Nitrifying bacteriaoxidiseammoniawhichiseither ganic materiallikecarbohydrates,fatsandproteins; waste waters.Heterotrophicbacteriabreakdownor- organisms directlybreakdownthepollutingmatterin isms usedinwastewatertreatment;thesesingle-celled Bacteria arethemostpopulousofmicro-organ- tages overalternativetreatmentstrategies: Biological wastewatertreatmentoffersmajoradvan- them intosimplersubstances,improvingtreatment. the complexsubstancesinwastewater, converting Microorganisms usedinwastewatertreatmentfeedon 6. Bio-basedproductsforeffluenttreatment that continuallyregeneratewateranddustrepellents. engineered bacteria,self-cleaningfabrics,andfabrics e.g. fabricsthatliterallyeatodourswithgenetically of awholenewlinecommercialproductsaswell sitive cellularsensors,butbiofabricsmayformthebasis ducing bandagesorprotectiveclothingwithhighlysen- in themedicalanddefenceindustries,e.g.drugpro- ponents. Nicheapplicationsforbio-activefabricsexist plenish chemicalcoatingsandchemicallyactivecom- rated intothemthatenabletogenerateandre- cally engineeredbacteriaormammaliancellsincorpo- biologically activatedfibres.Thesefabricshavegeneti- rics thatcontainmicro-fabricatedbio-environmentsand Biotechnology alsoventuresintodevelopmentoffab- be financiallyfeasibleandenvironmentallyfriendly. and consistentlyapplied.Moreover, theyalsoneedto presence ofotherchemicals,wash-fast,andevenly durable duringthefabricfinishingprocess,stablein comes withahostofchallenges.Finishesmustbe The developmentofuniquefabricandgarmentfinishes to giveantishrinkfinishwoolfabric. Sept -Oct2013 ◆ ◆ ◆ TEXNOTE wastewater characteristics Improved flexibilitytohandleawiderangeof inorganic compounds Efficient degradationandremovaloforganic Lower operatingcostscompared 155 .Pandey A. ,Conciseencyclopediaof bioresourse 8. 7.Dufossé1L.,Food Technol. Biotechnol.44 Babu V., ChoudhuryB.,ColloidsandSurfacesB: 6. Safety Assessment ofMicrobialPolysaccharide 5. Kulandaisamy C.,Z. A. Zakariab, Ahmada W. A., 4. Sutherland W. ,Biotechnologyofmicrobial 3. Mishra A. andRani A, .TheIndiantextilejournal 2. Sinha T. K., Agrawal Y. ,MohantaR.andKapoor 1. References fermentation andpurificationofproducts. techniques involvedincultivationofmicroorganisms, In theupcomingseries,focuswillbethusmadeon about 250billionUSdollarsby2016. increase theglobalmarketformicrobialproductsto ing demandsfromend-usesectorsareexpectedto reports, growingenvironmentalconcernsandincreas- ganisms islesstedious. According torecentmarket animal cellculture.Harvestingproductfrommicroor- croorganisms ismucheasierascomparedtoplantand compared tomicroorganisms. Also cultivationofmi- animals andplantsaretedioustoextractpurifyas application intextilesector. Productsobtainedfrom Thus avariedrangeofbiobasedproductsfindtheir dyestuffs. to degradevariousxenobioticcompounds,including produce extracellularperoxidasesandhavetheability discolouration ofazodyeeffluent.Streptomycesalso Specifically azoreductasehavebeenemployedfor are appliedfordecolourizationofdyesinwastewater. Enzymes arealsousedforeffluenttreatment.Laccases reactive dyestuffs. and Pseudomonasluteolaarereportedtodecolourize methane group.TheGram-negativeShewanellaspp. ported todecolorizedyesbelongingthetriphenyl- A same. technology, Food productspress,167-180,(2004) (3), 313-321,(2006) Biointerfaces, 89,277-282,(2012) Review 2012 Gums asUsedinCosmeticsCosmeticIngredient Process Biochemistry, 48(2013)1065-1079 exopolysaccharides, Cambridgeuniversitypress,137 (2008 ) of-21st-century1.asp textile-industry-articles/fibres-of-21st-century/fibres- R. ,http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/ bacterium belongingtoKurthiasp.wasre- ❑

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association industry issues. function andassuredfullsupportto TAI forresolving Sambasiva Raoinauguratedtheseminarinaglittering tion (India).UnionMinisterof Textile, Dr. Kavuru num Jubilee Year Celebrationofthe Textile Associa- in PHDHouse,NewDelhitocommemoratethePlati- organized aseminaronSaturday, 21stSeptember2013 The Textile Association (India)-Delhisuccessfully of industry. Headvisedtheparticipants toroutetheir review ofexistinggovernment policiesforthebenefit take forwardconcernoftextile sectorandassuredfor tions andacademicinstitutions, Dr. Raopromised to holders ofthetextileindustryfromrenownedorganiza- ering ofmorethan100seniorindustrialistsandstake- During onetointeractionwithanimpressivegath- Secretary, TAI -Delhi. Editor, TAI -NewsLetterandMr. RiteshGupta,Hon. Vice Chairman, TAI - Delhi; Mr. Vikas Bhargava, Knowledge PartneroftheSeminar;Mr. Vikas Chachra, - Delhi;MrPrashant Agarwal ofWazir Advisors & Chairman -Seminar;Mr. NavinGoyal,Chairman, TAI Vice President, TAI -Delhi;Mr. Pankaj Sharma, Aggarwala, President, TAI -Delhi;Mr. D.K.Singh, Anil Gupta,NationalVice President, TAI; Mr. Sudhish Important functionariesoftheseminarincludedDr. during Seminarinauguration Dr. K.S.Rao,UnionTextile Ministerlighteningthelamp One toone'Interaction'with Union TextileTAIMinisterin The Textile Association(India) Delhi's Seminar TAI -Delhi 156 is veryless. has increasedmanifold;hence Hankyarnrequirement sector hasshrunkwhereas spindleageinthecountry ish Hank Yarn obligationasovertheyearsHandloom Dr. Gupta alsorequestedtheHon'bleMinistertoabol- Indian textileindustrycouldsurviveongoinglabourcrisis. scheme withtheemploymentintextileindustrysothat Hon'ble Union Textile MinistertolinkGovt'sNAREGA industry. At theendofhisspeech, Dr. Guptaurged the activities which TAI organizes forthe benefitoftextile Textile Association (India)emphasizingondifferent lighted thevariousobjectivesandactivitiesofThe Dr. Anil Gupta,National Vice President, TAI high- export earnings. to industrialoutput,employmentgenerationandthe industry alsoplaysavitalrolethroughitscontribution viding oneofthebasicnecessitieslife;textile the economiclifeofcountryandapartfrompro- the Textile industryhasanoverwhelmingpresencein TIT&S. Mr. Aggarwala informedthegatheringthat R.C.D. KaushikandDr. RishiJamdagni,Director, guests presentattheeventwithspecialthankstoProf. warm welcometoallthedelegates,speakersand who expressedhisimmensepleasureandextendeda dress byMr. Sudhish Aggarwala, President, TAI -Delhi Challenges" theseminarstartedwitha Welcome Ad- Themed "Textile Industry Today -Opportunities& a concern. low yieldofcottonwerealsoraisedbyDr. Raowith development forthemanpowerworkingintextileunits, our incapabilitytoexportvalueaddedproducts,skill help fromtheministryforsame.Issuessuchas, other areaoftextilemanufacturing&assuredallthe search inthefieldtextilemachinerymanufacturing& Dr. Raoemphasisedovertheneedofmeaningfulre- linking theschemewithtextileindustry. already takenupthematterwithPrimeMinisterfor NREGA scheme,heinformedtheaudiencethathas tion policyforthebenefitofindustry. Regarding assured thedelegatesforreviewofhankyarnobliga- National Vice President,TAI, Hon'bleMinisterfurther In responsetothepointsraisedbyDr Anil Gupta, poration ofIndiaandCentralSilkBoardetc. bodies ofthecentralgovernmentlikeCottonCor- association's representationinmajorpolicymaking favourably thelongpendingrequestof TAI Delhifor Association (India)-Delhiandalsoagreedtoconsider problems andpossiblesolutionsthroughthe Textile UNIT ACTIVITY Sept -Oct2013 nar enablingaroadmapforfurtherplanning. fruitful conclusionfromthedeliberationsofsemi- be openintheirpresentationandviewstobringout audience. Heappealedtoallspeakersanddelegates seminar providedthebackgroundofto Wazir Advisors andtheKnowledgePartnerfor Thereafter, Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Founder&Partner, Sept -Oct2013 together thisseminarwould havebeenadistantdream. and KnowledgePartner, withoutwhosesupportputting the supportprovidedby delegates,guests,media Vote of Thanks, conveyedhisheartiestregardsforall Singh, Vice President, TAI -Delhiwhileproposingthe Towards theendofinauguralsession,Mr. D.K. amidst thundersfromtheaudience. rate introductionoftheHon'bleUnion Textile Minister ing hisviewsontoday'stextilescenario,gaveanelabo- Mr. PankajSharma,SeminarChairmanwhileexpress- Group. worth Rs50,000/-institutedbyMr. J.P. SariaofSpintex tated subsequentlywithmeritcummeansscholarships Meritorious studentsofdifferentinstituteswerefelici- Mr. R.L.Kapoor, PastPresident, TAI -Delhipresenting Partner, Wazir of Seminar Advisors, KnowledgePartner UNIT ACTIVITY Hon'ble MinisteralongwithMr. J.P.Saria, Trustee, TAI Spintex Grouptomeritoriousstudentsofrenowned Delhi presentingscholarshipawardssponsoredby a mementotoMr. Prashant Agarwal, Founder& textile institutions 157 ATE EnterprisesPrivateLimited. Cellulose andMr. Laxmikant Rathi, Vice President, Vice President(Customers&MarketIntelligence),Birla Trident Group(Terry Towel Unit);Mr. Ajay Sardana, ited; Mr. RajendraSinghCheema,ComplianceHead- Shankar Singh,BusinessHead,BlueBlendsIndiaLim- General, Apparel ExportPromotionCouncil;Mr. Ravi eminent speakersMr. Vijay Mathur, Acting Secretary at lengthduringthetechnicalsessionofseminarby for Textile MachineryManufacturing?"weretouched Product Development"and"CanIndiabecomeaHub for BusinessGrowth","MarginImprovementthrough Textile Industry","ComplianceasaKeyRequirement "Policy Frameworkfor Accelerated GrowthofIndian Indian GarmentIndustryfrombeingtheGlobalLeader?", Topics ofinterestincurrentscenariolike"Whatstops untiring effortsinmaking the Seminaragreatsuccess. thanks toSpeakers,Delegates andOrganizersfor Goyal, Chairman, TAI -Delhiproposedthe Vote of Vice Chairman, TAI- Delhi. Intheend,Mr. Navin proceedings weresummarizedbyMr. Vikas Chachra, Bhargava, Editor-NewsLetter, TAI Delhi,andthe Technical SessionwasmoderatedbyMr. Vikas Mr. NavinGoyal,Chairman,TAI Delhiproposing voteof presenting amementotoMr. Vijay Mathur, Acting Prof. R.C.D.Kaushik,Ex-Director, TIT&S,Bhiwani thanks attheconclusionofSeminar Secretary General,AEPC

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association another businessstartedin 1990onmanufacturingof ratory, whichhascompleted25years. He hasalso own businessin1983the nameofM/sJyotiLabo- (Sintex Industries)in Textile testing.Hestarted his 15 year'sofvastexperienceinBharatVijay Mills Shri Trivedi, B.Sc.,DTC, ATA (TAI), hasmorethan South Koreaand ACTA-2012, Dhaka,Bangladesh. Barcelona, Spain,11th Asian Textile Conferenceat ITMA-ASIA '2008Shanghai,China '06 Atlanta, USA,ITMA-2007MunichGermany, tional levelandvisitedITMA'05Singapore, ATME-I Shri Trivedi attendedmanytextileconferencesatna- Service Mementoof TAI -Central. Memento ofUnitaswellhewashonoredwith Representative, BestCommitteeChairman,Service He hasbeenconferredwithseveralawardslikeBest unit trophy6timeswithtwohatric. exhibition in2008andwasinstrumentalgettingBest ship in1998andanInternationalConferencewith successful Textile Conferencesduringhissecretary position of Ahmedabad Unit.Mr. Trivedi organized was workingformorethanthreedecadesatvarious Shri Trivedi wasaPatronMemberof Association and early departure. It wasashockfor TAI whichneverthoughtsuchan November, 2013attheageof65years Ahemedabad. severe heartattackandpassedawayonMonday, 04th Ahmedabad Unit,Shri Vijaykumar A. Trivedi hadvery Hon. Secretaryof The Textile Association (India)- It isaregrettoinformthatverydynamicmember& Hon. Secretary, The Textile Association (India)- Ahmedabad Unit also ITMA 2011, Shri VIJAYKUMAR TRIVEDI A. OBITUARY 20-10-1948 -04-11-2013 158 nal peacetothedeparted soul. lence tohisfamilyandprays almightytobestoweter- The Textile Association (India)offersheartfelt condo- tribute toLateShri V.A. Trivedi, zation personalitiesattendedinbignumbersandpaid as othertextilerelatedGovt.andSemiOrgani- known Textile Technicians, Textile Co-owners aswell ing atDineshHall,ofthe Textile Association. Well- on 13thNov, 2013byorganizing thecondolencemeet- paid SHRADDHANJALItoLateShri V. A. Trivedi The Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unitalso many textiletechnicians. attended byallfamilyrelativesandfriendsalongwith Textile Association on10thNov, 2013(Sunday)was ily membersofMr. Trivedi inthepremisesof The BESNU(Condolence)wasorganizedbythefam- leadership inthe Textile testingin Ahmedabad. and FinishingofFabricsGarments.Hehasdistinct and consultancyinthe Textile fieldlike;Dying,Printing His mainobjectwaspromotingknowledge,technology smile withoutanytension. guiding forceto TAI, alwayshelping otherswitha dynamic roleinthe Textile Association. Hewasa of Gujarat&Nationallevelduetohisprominentand organizations. Hewaswellknowninthetextilecircles Shri V.A. Trivedi wasactiveinvarioustrade&charity prises. specialty chemicalsinthenameM/s Alchem Enter- Sept -Oct2013 NEWS competence toyoungstersintheiracademictraining. tors fromIndianspinningmillsandwilloffertechnical to conducttrialsandtrainexecutivesaswellopera- the DKTEpremises.TheCenterwillcreateaplatform Spin- and Training Center"inspinningtechnologieson eration whichwillresultintheestablishmentofa"Rieter DKTE andRieterhaveagreedonanexclusivecoop- Sept -Oct2013 opment ofthesetechnologiesinIndia. and willcombinetheirstrengthstosupportthedevel- tions. BothRieterandDKTEvaluethiscooperation ning technologiesmostsuitableforIndianmillcondi- undertake commonresearchprojectsinvariousspin- technological questionsoftheindustry. The centerwill petent teamtodrawupthetesttrialsrespond have Rieter'slatestendspinningmachineswithacom- The stateoftheartSpin-and Training Centerwill NEWS Resumes areinvitedfromthecandidates to availthebestjobrightcandidate For offering fresh/skilledexperiencedpersonneltothe Textile, Garment,FashionandRetailsectors adding newfeaturesofcareerbuilding /jobrecruitmentserviceson for Top Managements, Executives,Managers,Engineers,Supervisors, Handing-Over Ceremony Research Analysts, Designers,Merchandisers, Fresher andother DKTE andRieterjointly extend Indiantextile technology support The Textile (India) Association For moredetailswrite to: www.textileassociationindia.org 159 plants. students forplayingakeyroleinmanagingspinning and practicaltuitionatDKTEwilloptimallyprepare the textilebranchinIndia. Well-founded theoretical tial contributiontohands-ontrainingforyoungstersin With thiscooperation,Rieterwill bemakingasubstan- machines tospindifferentproducts. for theversatilityandflexibilityofRieterspinning and corporatehouseswillfunctionasashowcase DKTE enjoysthestrongsupportoftextileindustry able advantagesfortheIndianspinningmillindustry. conduct trialsanddevelopmentworkresultinginvalu- create benefitsforboththestakeholderswhowill research. TheRieterSpin-and Training Centerwill society throughexcellenteducationandhighquality and ahighlyqualifiedstaffthatservestheindustry tional institutewithexcellentinfrastructuralfacilities systems supplier, cooperateswithDKTE,aneduca- Rieter, aleadingtextilemachinerymanufacturerand Department. and Mr. SridharSwamifromtheField Technology Technology), Mr. PankajDangra(Head Marketing) represented byMr. DinabandhuMahapatra(Head pal) andremainingteammembers,whileRieterwas P.K. Awade (Director),Prof.Dr. P.V. Kadole(Princi- Society, includingMr. K.B. Awade (Chairman),Mr. attended bytheentiremanagementteamofDKTE 29th July2013atitscenterinIchalkaranji.Thiswas "Cooperation Agreement handing-overceremony"on To markthismemorableoccasion,DKTEorganized a [email protected]

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association tying toproduceelaboratedesignswascommendable. participants. Theaccuracyandprecisioninintricate Creativity withtheriotofcoloursenthralledall duced byusingdifferenttechniquesoftieanddye. and theuseofdyes. Varieties ofeffects werepro- decorating clothbymanipulatingthemethodoftying is acomplicated,sophisticatedandversatilemethodof shared histraditionalexquisitecraftoftieanddye.It Mr. NaushadjiKhatri,anexpertkarigarofBandhani, Karnad, facultyofthedepartment. artisans totheparticipantsalongwithDr. Vishaka Dedhia, HeadoftheSpecialisationwhointroduced artisans andparticipantswerewelcomedbyDr. Ela the westernregionsofGujaratandRajasthan.The and BagruPrinting&SoofEmbroideryhailingfrom traditional artandcraftsnamelyonShibori&Bandhani thetic andcreativeexperiencesofthedifferentIndian were conductedbythekarigarssharingtheirrichaes- and 4th August, 2013.Informativebeautifulworkshops tional Awardees ofParamparikKarigarson3rdand the proudprivilegeoforganizingworkshopsbyNa- The Textile andFashionTechnology Specializationhad Mumbai ization, NirmalaNiketan, Affiliated totheUniversityof Organized byTextile andFashion Technology Special- SHIBORI, BAGRUPRINTING AND SOOF EMBROIDERY By PARAMPARIK KARIGARS WORKSHOPS 160 for sharingtheirknowledgeandskills. Goyal andMrs.RituMadan,facultyofthedepartment of heritage.TheartisanswerethankedbyMrs.Pratima step towardssustainingourbeautifultraditionalcrafts face interactionswiththevillageartisansasasmall country. The participantslookforwardtosuchface brancy ofthetraditionalartandcraftourbeautiful experience intounderstandingandappreciatingthevi- constant bindingsourceofinspiration.Itgavefirsthand skill anddowntoearthattitudeisadmirablea Immense knowledgefromthegreatartisans,enormous through thisworkshop. of usingdifferenttechniquesforprintingwasrealized the handsonexperienceofart.Thetrueessence craft wasshownbytheartisanandeveryoneenjoyed block printingontextilearticles.Thebrillianceofthe and handblockprinting,indigodyeingwooden Rambabuji Chippa.Bagruisknownfornaturaldyes The Bagruprintingworkshopwasconductedby approach towardssharingherexpertise. ticipants whowereenlightenedbyherworkandhumble demonstrated andexplainedthesestitchestothepar- triangle wasfilledinwithakindofsatinstitch.She her finesseandintricacyincraft.Eachembroidered close lookonhercreationsshowedmasteryover nately embellishedwiththeclassicSoofembroidery. A using Soofembroidery. Theattiresheworewasor- covers, wallhangings,dressandchildren'swearsaris years, hascreatedanumberoftablecloths,cushion Smt. DayabenDohat,withherexperienceofforty skill ofcolouringfabrics. and appreciatehisfervourforpromotingthetraditional and understandingofcolourswithintricacyhiswork and Shibori.Theparticipantslearntin-depthknowledge tionally acclaimedforhisbeautifulcraftofLeheriya craftsman BadshahjiMiyanofJaipur. Heisinterna- The Shiboriworkshopwasconductedbythemaster Textsmile have myPasswithMe!!! Passenger: Listen,Iam not afool.Ialready Conductor: whatifyou loseboth? ticket willsaveme. Passenger: Becauseifiloseonethatsecond Bus conductor:Whyare takingtwotickets? Sept -Oct2013 NEWS Sept -Oct2013 ◆ ◆ ◆ would liketoclearlystatethefollowingkeyfeatures: system andtherelatedcertificationrequirementswe edge about(certainaspectsof)theGOTSlabeling false referencesareobviouslybasedonlackofknowl- most casesofunauthorisedtrademarkuseor In ordertoavoidsuchimplicationsandconsideringthat has notbeenrenewedsincethen. Its GOTScertificateexpiredon20thMarch,2012and and ignoringcorrespondingnotificationsdeadlines. cense numberafterbeingresignedfromcertification ued useofGOTSlogo,certificationreferenceandli- years starting10thJuly2013.Thereasonwascontin- tem. A companyin Tirupur, Indiawasbannedfortwo credibility oftheGOTSprogramanditslabellingsys- publication ofthetransgressionsoastosafeguard actions suchascorrectiveand/orlegalaction transgressions andisconcernedtotakeappropriate The InternationalWorking Groupinvestigatessuch certified. sentation thatacompanyoritsproductsareGOTS references toGOTS(certification)andfraudulentpre- increase inthenumberoftrademarkviolations,false logo andcertificationprogram,GOTSisalsofacingan With theincreasedrecognitionandvalueofGOTS "GOTS augmentsitscommitmentagainstlogo NEWS misuse; Indiancompanybannedfortwoyears on thegarment/finaltextile productiftheGOTS GOTS label(orreference toGOTScertification) GOTS labellingconditions donotofferuseofthe To avoidconfusion andmisleadingconsumersthe and releasebytheirassignedGOTScertifier. the GOTSlabeltoaproductfollowingapproval Only aGOTScertifiedentityisauthorisedtoapply ling sample). ber and/ornameofthecertifiedentity(seelabel- ence ofthecertificationbodyandlicensenum- grade ('organic'or'madewithorganic'),arefer- 'Global Organic Textile Standard'), theGOTSlabel trademark registeredGOTSlogo(orthelettering Correct andcompleteGOTSlabellingshowsthe TRADEMARK PROTECTION GOTS LABELLING AND for misconduct" 161 ◆ ◆ ◆ certification acceptedinall majorsellingmarkets. supply theirtextilesmadefrom organicfibreswithone worldwide. Itenablesprocessors andmanufacturersto gained universalrecognition andsupportofmajorbrands Global Organic Textile Standard(GOTS)Hasalready cessing criteriafromtheindustryandretailsector, the fibres andbytheremarkabledemandforunifiedpro- Supported bythegrowthinconsumptionoforganic About GOTS: 2002june09.pdf. gots%20licensinglabelling%20guideissue% http://global-standard.org/images/ from theGOTSwebsite ing andLabellingGuide',whichcanbedownloaded related designspecificationsaredefinedinthe'Licens- ing theprovisionsforproductmarkingand The completelicensingandlabellingconditionsinclud- turer supplyingtheGOTSGoods. license numberofthecertifiedtraderormanufac- fied. Inthiscasethelabellingmustinclude ready packedandlabelledGOTSGoodsiscerti- that theirseller(atraderormanufacturer)ofthe do notneedtobecomecertifiedbutmustassure and donot(re)packor(re)labeltheGOTSGoods Retailers whodonothaveaB2Btradeactivity with an Approved Certifier. do notneedtobecomecertifiedbutmustregister annual turnoverwithGOTSGoodslessthan5.000• labelled asGOTScertified. Traders havingan certification programbeforefinalproductscanbe B2B tradersmustparticipateintheinspectionand marking, publicationsandadvertising. tween certifiedandnon-certifiedproductsinany labelling mustensurethatnoconfusionarisesbe- order companies).InanycasetheuserofGOTS on webpagesorotherpublications(e.g.bymail GOTS Goodspresented(forsale)incatalogues, The conditionsalsoapplyforidentificationofany allowed intheGOTScertificationprocess. claims ofthesellerandareneitherverifiednor GOTS certifiedcottonoryarnfabric'areself- textile productssuchas'thisgarmentismadefrom product arecertified. Accordingly, claimsusedon use isthatthewholevaluechainandfinal yarn orfabric). A preconditionforonproductlabel certification isonlyvalidforintermediates(suchas

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association facturer ofFluorinebasedReactivedyesintheworld MoU withtheColorRootofChina-biggestmanu- COLRON "CN"series.Colorantrecentlyconcludeda range ofFluorinebasedReactivedyesinthename Company toofferit'sclientsinIndiaandoverseasa "Export House".ColoranthasbecomethefirstIndian pany alsoenjoysstatusofGovernmentrecognized tified andPre-registeredwith"REACH".TheCom- Dyes inIndia.Mostoftheproductsare"GOTS"Cer- one oftheleadingManufacturersandExporters 9001:2008 &ISO14001:2004certifiedCompanyand ,2013 atHotel Trident ,Mumbai.ColorantisanISO port PromotionCouncil,Mumbaiheldon30th August Basic Chemicals,Pharmaceuticals&CosmeticsEx- Market byaSMEfortheyear2010-2011 organized by Award fortheoutstandingperformanceinExport turer andexporterbasedin Ahmedabad receivedthe Colorant Limited,aleadingReactivedyesmanufac- (UK) andJOCA(Japan).Theydefineworldwide namely OTA (USA),IVN(Germany),Soil Association comprised offourreputedmemberorganisations, setters -theGOTSinternationalworkinggroup.Itis GOTS wasdevelopedbyleadinginternationalstandard ries, CNseriesandSF arealreadybeingused Performance Reactivedyes likeSDseries,GLXse- the energysavingandemission reduction.ColronHigh India therebyrevolutionizing thedyeingindustrydueto green chemistrytoit'scustomersforthefirsttime in company tooffermostmodernandenvironmentally marketing rightsforthesedyesinIndiaenablingthe Under theagreement,Colorantishavinganexclusive Mr. SubhasBhargava, MDofColorantIndiaLtd. receiving the Award from Chief Guest Mr. Anand Sharma, Ministerofcommerce,Industry and Textile, INDIA COLORANT LIMITEDRECEIVES CHEMEXIL AWARD 162 quality, cost-effectiveness andtimelysupply. zil, Nigeria,Gautemalaandmanyothercountriesforits China, Turkey, Pakistan,Iran,Egypt,CostaRica,Bra- Houses) inIndiaandwellacceptedBangladesh, by morethan650customers(includingCorporate to theconsumer. up tolabelling-inorderprovidecredibleassurance environmentally andsociallyresponsiblemanufacturing textiles, fromharvestingoftherawmaterials,through recognised requirementsthatensureorganicstatusof know more about Mobile: +91-22-9819801922 Contact usto Tel.: 022-24461145, Fax: 022-24474971 [email protected] [email protected], Publisher JTA: E-mail : Sept -Oct2013 NEWS transfer oftechnologies. and CollaborationswithEuropeanmanufacturersfor of Applied ResearchthroughJoint Ventures, Tie-ups Switzerland, shallbehelpfulinknowingthepossibilities try EconomistandPartnerofGherzi Textile Organisation, presentation ofMr. Navdeep.S.Sodhi, Textile Indus- the unitswereoperatingunderCNCsystems.The Textile EngineeringIndustrystatesthatonly12.17%of tioned thatthefiguresoftechnologicalgapin machines whichisonly45%today. Itwasalsomen- order tomeetthedomesticrequirementofourtextile improvement ofR&DInfrastructureandMarketingin that duringthediscussions,itwasstressedupon to organizethisSeminaronimmediatebasis.Headded K.V.S. Rao,inhisoffice atNewDelhi,itwasdecided outcome ofthemeetingheldwithHon'bleDr. General (Tech), ITAMMA, informedthatbasedonthe In theintroductoryspeech,Mr. N.D.Mhatre,Director in Technology &Marketing" dustry inDomesticMarketthroughInnovations forOpportunities Indian Textile EngineeringIn- ITAMMA organized aseminaron Sept -Oct2013 welcome speechinformed that"Today, wearecon- Mr. Naresh A. Mistry, President, ITAMMA, inhis processes, etc. indigenization ofimportedspares/specialfinishes, (CFC) shallhelpinimprovingthebasicresearchthrough Agency forestablishingtheCommonFacilityCentre Pvt. Ltd.,Mumbai,appointingIT The initiativetakenbyM/s.RenaissanceInfraRealty livering introductoryspeech Shri N.D.Mhatre, Director General(Tech) ITAMMA, de- NEWS INDIAN TEXTILE ACCESSORIES &MACHINERY on19-09-2013. AMMA asaNodal MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION "Challenges & 163 crores (2011-12) uptoRs.1,462croresduring2012-13. same timeExportfigureshavereducedfromRs.1,523 2011-12 toRs.8,558croresduring2012-13;andatthe chineries whichhasrisenfromRs.7,500croresduring cerned withthefiguresofImport Textile Ma- and opportunitytoimprove uponourtechnological Indian Industrialists,wefeel thatthisistherighttime pean Manufacturersbeing eagertodobusinesswith However, consideringthetoday'sscenario ofEuro- course willtakesometimefortheresults. the memberstodevelopthroughbasicR&D,and of ment initiatives.These Design ClinicprogrammesunderitsClusterDevelop- own, IT Also forthosememberswhowishtodevelopattheir followed bythatatMumbai. ing aCFCat Ahmedabad veryshortly, whichwillbe taken activestepsinthisregardandwillbeestablish- struments. Needlesstosaythat etc. andtesting;withthehelpofState-of-the Art in- finishing processeslikePlasma&Nanotreatments, indigenization ofhighvalueimportedspares,special Centres -CFCs,forcarryingoutfacilitieslike provision offundsforestablishingCommonFacility cessories atNationallevel,Governmenthasmadea ture. To encouragetheR&DofMachines & Ac- Wet ProcessingbeingthelackofR&Dinfrastruc- enous Hi-techTextile Machinesespecially Weaving & The majorhurdlesinthedevelopmentofindig- Shri Naresh Mistry, President ITAMMA, deliveringhis AMMA is Welcome Speech. organizing LeanManufacturing, efforts of IT ITAMMA hasalready AMMA arehelping

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association ting upCFCforaperiodof 3+22yearsonLeave& lage -Vashere, Taluka- BhiwanditoITAMMA forset- sance Industrial& Warehousing Parksituatedat,vil- Renaissance willprovide10,000 sq.ft.area,inRenais- low: ITAMMA signedtheMoU Mumbai andMr. Naresh A. Mistry, President, Director ofM/s.RenaissanceInfraRealtyPvt.Ltd., ITAMMA tookplace. naissance InfraRealtyPvt.Ltd.,Mumbaiand Thereafter theexecutionofMoUbetweenM/s.Re- neurs ofthetextileindustryinvestinginthisproject. Facility Centre(CFC)forthebenefitofentrepre- been aNodal Agency forestablishingtheCommon also explainedbyhimanddeclaredthatITAMMA has mon FacilityCentre(CFC)inthisindustrialspacewas turing Industry. The detailsabouttheproposedCom- for Textile EngineeringIndustryand Textile Manufac- & StateGovernmentfacilitiesandsubsidiesavailable He alsogavetheavailabilityofspace,variousUnion Vashere, Bhiwandi Taluk, ThaneDistrict,Maharashtra. the detailinsightofProjectIndustrialParkat M/s. RenaissanceInfraRealtyPvt.Ltd.,Mumbai,gave execution ofMoU,Mr. Veeresha Rao,BusinessHead, alty Pvt.Ltd.,MumbaiandITAMMA. Beforethe signing aMoUbetweenM/s.RenaissanceInfraRe- The Seminarwasclubbedwithanimportanteventof Deposits, MutualFunds,etc. Bonds, Stocks,RealEstates,Commodities,Equities, topics relatedtoMarkets,UnderlyingandBenchmarks, vestments" whereshecoveredthevariousimportant Mumbai, gaveacompleteinsighton"OutlookIn- Ms. ReemaRay, InvestmentsCounselor, Citibank, entrepreneurs oftextileengineeringindustry. available byNSICLtd.,benchmark,small&medium Video Filmconveyedtheaudiencevariousschemes Branch, throughhisPowerPointPresentationanda The NationalSmallIndustriesCorporationLtd.,Mumbai Mr. Hemant Wanelkar, Dy. Manager, MarketingHead, systems andsoon." ing acrossvariousinnovationsinMarketingskills/ this CompetitiveMarket. And sotoday, wearecom- need ofthehoureventosellaverygoodproductin We allknowthatMarketingplaysavitalroleandisthe and Tie-upsCollaborations for Technology transfers. development atRocketspeedthroughJointVentures / Mr. MayurSuchak,Managing whose contentareasbe- 164 fabric andfinishingprocesses. conservation, butalsointheproductionoffiber, yarn, energy efficiencyisnotonlyintermsofwater&fuel made fibers.Itwasstressedbyhimthatinvention in figures thatthe World isshiftingtowardstheman- formed thegatheringthroughgraphsandstatistical well as World -Fiber Valued Added Chain.Hein- statistics ofShuttlelessLooms,DyeingMachines as grows inLongStapleSpinning.Healsogavethe expansion at6%p.a.andthesametime, Turkey Spinning expansionat7%p.a.whileRing last 20years. As perhisanalysis, Asia leads Rotor him comparingwiththetextileproductionduring ishing, spinning,weaving,etc.werealsoexplainedby textile machineryfromallcategories,i.e.ginning,fin- The statisticswiththetotal World-wide demandfor should bepursuedstrategicallyandonwarfootbasis. time thatacquisitionofknow-howfrom Western OEMs areas forfutureinnovationandsaidthatthisistheright vation (energy, water)andautomationwillbethekey and fabric.Healsostressedontheresourceconser- China; developedcountries;thedemandforfiber, yarn share ofGlobaltextilemachinery;thecontribution Textile EngineeringIndustry;wherehecoveredthe He informed10keymessagesinregardwithIndian in technology&marketing. Global trends,Challenges&opportunities,Innovations his PowerPointPresentationcoveredthreetopics,viz. Partner ofGherzi Textile Organisation,Switzerland,in Mr. NavdeepS.Sodhi, Textile IndustryEconomist,and basis. can beusedforcarryingCFC'sactivityonprimaface so thatbalanceareaofapproximately2200sq.ft. about 750sq.ft.and1250ofSeminarHall office ofabout500sq.ft.,aConferenceRoom CFC building.Renaissancewillprovideafurnished such timeofhandingover10,000sq.ft.spacein nance Charges(CAM)foraperiodof3yearsortill only aslicenseefeeandnoCommonareaMainte- first flooronLeave&LicensebasisforINR.One area initsIndustrialGalabuilding- A1, inSector3on Renaissance willprovideapprox4700sq.ft.furnished commencement ofaforesaidLeave&Licenseperiod A asLicenseefeeinitsCFCdesignatedbuilding. Till License basisforaconsiderationofINR.OneonlyP. Sept -Oct2013 NEWS Sept -Oct2013 where hewasabletocompletely changethefaceof such machinesthroughtraining inschoolsandcolleges the consumptionofmachinery bycreatingademandof from increasingthesupply ofmachinerytoincreasing successful supplierbychanginghisthemeofbusiness Supplier (Mr. MadhuKapoor),whoprovedtobea He alsogaveanexampleofaGarmentMachinery Garment Machinery, etc. time hemayalsothinkofmanufacturingKnitting, facturing equipmentsfortextilemanufacturers. At that his businessenhancewhenhesaysthatismanu- machinery forweaving.Buthegivesawidescope to of businesswhenhethinksthatismanufacturinga especially, loommanufacturerwouldrestricthisscope In thesameway, atextilemachinerymanufacturer manufacturing machinesuptofinishingmachines. business increaseswhichgiveshimvastavenuesof facturing machines,thescopeofdevelopmenthis he saysisinthebusinessofmakinggarmentmanu- his enhancingthebusinessreduces.However, when is inthebusinessofstitchinggarments,scope a sewingmachinerymanufacturerwhensaysthathe Guest mentionedthatinthecaseofindustrialproduct, Creative Casual Wears, inhisspeech astheChief Association (CMAI)&ManagingDirectorofM/s. Mr. RahulMehta, President,ClothingManufacturing ing, knittingandgarmentingwerehighlightedbyhim. year 2030. Various opportunitiesespecially, inweav- at aCAGR3%p.a.reaching137mntonesinthe the fiberdemandinnext20yearswhichwillgrow In hisconcludingsessionheexplainedtheforecastof Shri NavdeepS.Sodhi,Textile Economist,and Industry NEWS Partner ofGherziTextile Organisation, Switzerland, delivering hisPowerPointPresentation 165 his withanexampleof Asian Paintsconcentrating on to convincethecustomers. Hesupportedhisviewsof about thehighqualityproduct willnotalwaysbeable putting stickersorposters, conveyingthecustomers should alsobemaintainedwiththatquality. Justby product ourcommunicationsystemandtheprocedure ducing averyhightechnologyandquality nicate tothepropercustomers. Also, ifwearepro- national Exhibitionswillnotalwayshelpustocommu- our productsinthe9sq.mtr. Stall inanyoftheInter- the market;wherehementionedthatjustbydisplaying communicating withthecustomersandothers in He addedtheimportanceofwaysandsystems of and improvementofourproductqualityquantity. the assistanceofthesecustomersindevelopment help ustoretainourcustomersbutalsoingetting needed tobegiventhecustomerswhichnotonly He, further, mentionedaboutthe After-sales-Services quantities. quirement oftheend-userwithaprovisioninsmall tival) andsotheproductwaschangedasperre- shop ateverynewyearconsideredtobeDiwaliFes- num boardswhichwereusedtopaintthenamesof more thanoneyearwasnotrequired(i.e.thealumi- ity oftheproductordurabilityfor every DiwaliFestival,i.e.year;wherethequal- the requirementofcustomer(shopkeeper)wasat ing thesizeof Tin oftheproductandinothercase, paint inTin container)whichwastakencarebychang- So, theirrequirementwasnotmorethan50-100ml that tooduringaparticularseason. the painttohornsoftheirbullocksandcows the customer(i.e.beingfarmerneeding product insmallquantitywasthemainrequirementof examples ofPaintIndustry;wheretheneed per day. This wasverywellexplainedthroughtwo elephant whentherequirementwasonly1000pieces of cutting4000piecesperdayprovedtobeawhite tech CuttingMachinesinhisfactoryhavingacapacity Here, hegaveanexamplethatinstallationofHi- always enhancesthebusinessandthatisMarketing. manufacturing theproductasperneedsofuser not meanenhancingbusinessthroughmarketingbut technology ormanufacturingahi-techproductdoes One hastokeepinmindthatadoptingthehighest was furtherfollowedbyhisprincipalsinChina. garment machinerymanufacturerinthecountrywhich

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association ers toshowcasetheirproductsandmeetpotential 2014 wouldofferaplatformforthetechnologysuppli- again ontheupbeatmoodforinvestment.ITMACH Committee's approvalonlate August, theindustryis With the TUFS beingontheavailagainafterCabinet powerhouse Mumbai. try movedoutoftheerstwhiletextilemanufacturing Also, theareagotboostinmanufacturingasindus- embroidery, garmenting,andspecialtyyarnindustry. Dombivli, Tarapur etcthathouseknitting,processing, ing areaslikeUlhasnagar, Badlapur, Ambernath, also helpeddevelopingtextileindustryinthesurround- growth ofthetextilemanufacturinginBhiwandihas nological UpgradationFundScheme(TUFS).The community andgovernmentsupportintermsof Tech- thanks totheentrepreneurialskillsofbusiness taken uphugemodernizationoftechnologyofflate, in businessdynamicstextiletrade,theclusterhas ganized structureinthepast.However, withthechange have notreceiveditsdueimportancetounor- spite ofbeingamongIndia'slargestweavingcluster of India'scommercialcapitalMumbai.Bhiwandi,in Bhiwandi ontheNationalHighway3atperiphery and technologyatIndianCorporationpremisesin will showcasewiderangeoflatesttextilemachinery 2014. ITMACH2014scheduledfromJanuary22-24 host itsfirsttextilemachineryexhibitioninJanuary The boomingpowerloommegaclusterBhiwandito your product. communicate withyouractualusersthestrengthof over thebrand'109F'.Thus,thisisoneofwaysto psychological characteristics,thebrand'AND'scored similar physicalcharacteristics.However, becauseof '109F'. Theyarnsusedinboththebrandswerehaving of Anita Dongre'sbrand'AND'andofhisownbeing way, healsogaveanexampleofthetwobrands,one their advertisementswiththepainters.Insame business whiletheotherpaintindustryconcentrated end-users, i.e.residentialpeopleforenhancingtheir Grow yourorganization's business share through Grow yourorganization's business share through Grow yourorganization's business share through Grow yourorganization's business share through Grow yourorganization's business share through JOURNAL OF THETEXTILEA JOURNAL OF THETEXTILEA JOURNAL OF THETEXTILEA JOURNAL OF THETEXTILEA JOURNAL OF THETEXTILEA Bhiwandi tohaveitsowntextilemachineryexhibition ITMACH 2014 166 Tel: 00912222017061/2/3 www.ITMACH.com [email protected] Mr. HenryD'souza For anyfurtherinformation: can befoundin warts andindustryjournals.Furtherdetailsoftheevent ported byleadingindustryassociations,stal- The eventisorganized by Textile Excellence andsup- suburban railnetworks. Further, visitorswouldbeabletousetheMumbai access tothevenuefromMumbaiandNaviMumbai. highway, exhibitorandtradevisitorswouldhaveeasy Mumbai-Nashik highway(NH-3)orEasternExpress of-the-art exhibitionfacility. Beinglocatedon the of IndianCorporationthatwillbeconvertedtoastate- ITMACH 2014willbehostedinamodernwarehouse entire textilemanufacturingvaluechain. Ichalkaranji, Islampur, Kolhapur, Sholapurand covers Ahemadabad, Surat,Malegaon,Dhule,Burhanpur, south whichincludeslargetextileclusterslike covering BhilwarainthenorthandBelgaum of potentialandexistingcustomersfromwesternIndia ing placeforbusinessdiscussionsawidespectrum customers facetoface.Theeventwouldbethemeet- your customersandusers. ogy andsoisnotonlyforconsumerproductsbut Thus, Marketingisimportant;asimportanttechnol- about whatthefeaturesare. not communicatewiththemnobodyisgoingtoknow customers andtocommunicatewiththem.Ifyoudo tioning yourproducttosuittherequirementsof derstands whatyourcustomer'sneedsare.Itisposi- He concludedwiththestatementthatMarketingun- S the website:www.ITMACH.com SSSS S SSSS OCIA OCIAOCIAOCIAOCIA TION TIONTIONTIONTION Sept -Oct2013 NEWS ther developproductsand productiontechnologies. Lenzing site. About 170employees worktheretofur- search centerforcellulose andfiberchemistryatthe The LenzingGroupoperates theworld'sleadingre- leader intheman-madecellulosefiberindustry. Today theLenzingGroupisundisputedinnovation the companyaspacemakerinentiresector. tures inresearchanddevelopment,thusestablishing For decadesLenzingboastedabove-averageexpendi- Innovation asthekeytosuccess 900,000 tons. volume oftheLenzingGroupwillsoonreachalevel fibers peryear. Inthemeantimefiberproduction 75 yearsagoLenzingmanufactured30,000tonsof decades. will shapethecellulosefiberindustryincoming a completelynewandforward-lookingtechnologywhich At thesametimecompanydevelopedTENCEL®, made Lenzingthebestpracticemodelinindustry. environmental burdenoftheproductionprocesshave new heights.Ultimatelyinnovationstominimizethe the morethan100-year-oldviscosetechnologytoreach Thanks toitsinnovativestrengthLenzinghashelped compatible production. able rawmaterialofwoodandtheenvironmentally- premium productswhicharevaluedduetotherenew- cotton. Inthemeantime,theyarehighlysought-after fibers. Lenzingfiberswereonceacheapsubstitutefor market andtechnologyleaderforman-madecellulose pany hasemergedasaglobalplayerwellthe tionally operatingLenzingGroup. The Austrian com- two, oneofwhichistheheadquartersinterna- fiber productionplantsinEurope. Today thereareonly Several decadesagothereweremorethan30viscose The globalmarketleaderwithfibersmadeofwood force ofinnovationintheindustry. occasion, whichhonorsLenzing'sroleasthedriving the book"75 Years ofInnovation"publishedonthis ions, politiciansandpartners.Thecompanypresented vited guests-employees,customers,businesscompan- sary ofitsbusinessoperationstogetherwith3,000in- This weekLenzing AG iscelebratingthe75thanniver- Sept -Oct2013 NEWS 75 Years ofLenzing-75 Years ofInnovation A world marketleadercelebratesitsbirthday 167 and markthenexttechnologicalstepforTENCEL®. Upper Austria. Itwillcommenceoperationsin2014 is currentlyunderconstructionattheLenzingsitein tory, involvinginvestmentsofmorethanEUR130mn, on asemi-industrialscale.ThefourthTENCEL®fac- cations forTENCEL®fibersaredevelopedandtested also operatesthreepilotfacilitiesinwhichnewappli- efforts. InadditiontothreeTENCEL®plants,Lenzing remains themainfocalpointofLenzing'sresearch The furtherdevelopmentofTENCEL®technology century TENCEL® -thefibertechnologyof21st tion. products withincreasinglyspecializedareasofapplica- develop ecologicalproductionmethodsandsustainable ment. An importantobjectiveofresearchprojectsisto the LenzingGroupattachestoresearchanddevelop- about USD30mnannuallyunderlinetheimportance of thisteamspecialists.Researchexpenditures tries demonstratetheeffectivenessandperformance Some 1,400patentsandpatentapplicationsin57coun- tion siteoftheLenzinggroup wassetupinIndonesia. Lenzing pulpfactory. In1983the firstforeignproduc- trian banks.In1969thecompany wasmergedwiththe changed itsownerswho were nowthreelarge Aus- regime. Followingtheendofwar, thefactory was commencedin1938underthenationalSocialist was inoperation.Theconstructionoffibreproduction the atthattimemostmodernpulpfactoriesinEurope As earlyasthe1930iesofpreviouscentury, oneof Short summaryofhistorysiteinLenzing TENCEL® JumbolineconstructionSite

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association turing ofallthreeman-madecellulosefibergenerations the onlycompanyworldwidecombiningmanufac- experience infiberproduction,theLenzingGroupis dards forman-madecellulosefibers. With 75yearsof Lenzing qualityandinnovativestrengthsetglobalstan- to engineeringservices. dissolving pulp,standardandspecialtycellulosefibers business-to-business markets.Theportfoliorangesfrom cellulose fibersandistheleadingsupplierinmany and nonwovensindustrywithhigh-qualityman-made marketing offices.Lenzingsuppliestheglobaltextile markets aswellaworldwidenetworkofsalesand headquarters in Austria, productionsitesinallmajor The LenzingGroupisaworldmarketleaderwith The LenzingGroup Lenzing. production factorywithitscompanyheadquartersin 2012, constructionworkwasstartedonaTENCEL® the pulpfactory, BiocelPaskov(CzechRepublic).In Chinese viscosefiberfactory. In2010,Lenzingbought was soundedforthestartofconstructionfirst the USAandGreatBritain.Oneyearlaterwhistle took overtheirBritishcompetitors, Tencel, withsitesin scale productionofLyocell fibers.In2004Lenzing Stock Exchange.In1997Lenzingstartedthelarge- In 1985Lenzingshareswereintroducedtothe Viennese ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ virtual platform porters /Importers,academicinstitutes,studentsanddirect marketersthroughinternetetccannowenjoyawider Textile professionals, manufacturers, captains,Machinery Industry Trade associations/councils,Designers,Ex- Banner Ads are moderately priced atRs.36,000/-,24,000/-and20,000/0for 12months generating tool Visitors andreach canclickonadvertisement website/ e-commerce site: A powerfulbrandbuildingandrevenue The Ad windowwillhost banneradsonarotation shownfor10seconds basiswitheachadvertisements visitors havebeenrecordedfrom1stJanuary2013to 30th September2013 It hasbecomeverypopularwithtextile&garmentlovers allovertheworld:37,400pageviewsand10,500 features apparels andtextiles,Calendar offorthcomingevents,Photogallery, useful quicklinksandmanyotheruseful consumer interaction,e-journal, The websitehasup-to-dateinformationof TAI news,Press activities,Dailyupdatedindustry releases, talks, Expert features andre-launchedinJanuary2013,isconstantlyupdated The Textile Association Now, reach awider audienceandMAXIMIZEyour virtual revenue! Download formandagreement Introducing TAI WebsiteBanner Ads THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION(INDIA) (India) website(www.textileassociationindia.org) hasbeenredesigned withseveraladvanced [email protected] +91-022-2446 1145 a blogwith Textiles, ClothingandGarmentrelated trending technicalarticles, from www.textileassociationindia.org/banner 168 E-mail [email protected] Fax +43(0)7672918-2331 Phone +43(0)7672701-2331 www.lenzing.com 4860 Lenzing, Austria Werkstraße2 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft, For moreinformationpleasecontact: Staff: 7,033 Fiber salesvolumes:810,000tons Export share:91.1% Sales: EUR2.09bn Key FiguresLenzingGroup2012: our activitiesinthebusinessfieldengineering. Lenzing's corebusinessfibersarecomplementedby management andveryhighenvironmentalstandards. Lenzing iscommittedtotheprincipleofsustainable economic strength. and anoutstandingcostpositionarethebasisforour ogy andquality. Our successful specializationstrategy tion togetherwithitsleadershipininnovation,technol- a uniquecombinationofconsistentcustomerorienta- bers. ThesuccessoftheLenzingGroupresultsfrom classic viscosetomodalandlyocell(TENCEL®)fi- on alargeindustrialscaleunderoneroof-fromthe Sept -Oct2013 NEWS their blends. tial forhigherproductivitywithsyntheticfibersand leads toacoolersurface.Thisprovidesfurtherpoten- nology" heatdissipationtothenozzleisgoodwhich and blowroomwaste.Thankstothe"coolnozzletech- creased useofshortfiberssuchascombernoil,card applications suchassoft-turnedyarnsorwiththein- spinning stability. This canclearlybeseenwithcritical etry reducesthespinningtensionandimproves fibers canaccumulate.Theoptimizedspinninggeom- tions. Theboxnolongerhasanycoversunderwhich spinning vacuumfromchangingthecondi- The newconstructionpreventsfiberaccumulationsor place, evenwithouttools. unit anditselementsareveryeasyquicktore- TWISTstop andchannelinsertinone construction. The TWISTunit oftheR Noticeable istheabsenceofadeliverytube.Thenew sion andhasbeenfurtherimproved. proven advantagesofitspredecessortheSC-Rver- The newS60spinningboxoftheRfeaturesall a spinningplant High yarnqualityisthebasisforsuccessof chine iscomparedtoothermachines. reliable andclearlydesignedthisrotorspinningma- customers clearlyrecognizedhoweasy, operationally high efficiency. At theITMA 2011 inBarcelona,our new standardsforspeed,lowenergyconsumptionand better, moreuniformandsofteryarns. The R60sets matic R60rotorspinningmachinefromRieterensures The innovativespinningtechnologyofthenewauto- Sept -Oct2013 NEWS Machine - Technological Progress New R60RotorSpinning New R60RotorSpinningMachine 60 unitesdeliverynozzle, 169 alongside theefficiency, thefabricqualityisveryquickly plant todaycosts-worldwide -approx.2EUR,as per kgofyarn.Justone yarn breakintheweaving 12 denimweavingyarncontains around0.5piecings A samplecalculationshowsthefollowing:atypicalNe Faulty piecingscreatehighcosts processing. piecings generatingsubstantialcostsindownstream strength areachieved.Onlythiscanpreventmore technology, almostyarn-like piecings inmassand cleaning anddoffing. With theunique AEROpiecing® seconds forthecompletecycleincludingrotor efficiency ofthemachine.Therobotsneedonly20 greater numberofendsdownandmaintainthehigh robot, incomparisontotheR40,candealwithafar reduced byloweredspinningtension.The25%quicker The endsdownratewhenspinningwiththeR60is rate ofyarnbreakages Piecing qualityisparticularlyimportantwithahigh quality levelwiththoroughlycleanedrotorgrooves. tion subsequentlycontinuesproductionatthehighest and doffingcycle.Thisensuresthatthespinningposi- unique VARIOclean iseffectivewitheverypiecing The mechanicalrotorcleaningbytherobotwith the exitnozzleandrotorimprovespinningstability. tension andthenewautomatic,individualcenteringof sliver. The adjustablebypass,thereducedspinning of shortfibersorwithahightrashcontentinthefeed proves itsstrength,particularlywithahighproportion Again thefurtherdevelopedRieterspinningtechnology Savings withrawmaterial 9 %. energy consumptionperkgofyarntoanequivalent This additionallyresultsinafurtherreductionofthe constant rotorspeedwithappropriatelylowertwist. originally requiredyarnstrengthcanbeachievedbya transformed intoaproductivityincreaseof9%.The of 100%cotton-thisadvantageinstrengthcanbe In theexampleshown(Fig.2)-Ne17weavingyarn by upto0.75cN/texand20%higherIPIvalues. spinning technologyoftheR60isalreadyastepahead parison tothelatestcompetitormodels,innovative of betteryarnstrengthandevenness.Indirectcom- nological benefitsofthenewspinningboxinform Several customerscouldalreadyexperiencethetech- lower energyconsumption New spinningtechnologyforsuperioryarnsand

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association saving. ForthecentralsuctionR60exhibitsadvan- tangential beltdriveshavecontinuedtoproveenergy rapidly turningrotorsandopeningrollers,optimized the drivesforrotor, suctionandopeningrollers.Forthe energy consumersoftherotorspinningmachineare optimized forlowenergyconsumption.Thegreatest The modernconceptoftheR60wasspecifically Central driveconsumeslessenergy savings orevenbetter, tohigherprofitsforthespinner. per kgofyarncanbesaved.Thisleadstosignificant faulty piecingsintheweavingplant,already0.01EUR these circumstances,withonlya1%lowerrateof by thebuyerswithexpensivecompensation.Under also influenced.Suchfaultsinthefabricarepaidfor costs. Thecompanysupplies thecompleteprocess, process whichconsiderably lowersthemanufacturing Oerlikon Neumagoffersan efficientone-stepspunbond regard tothegrowingchancesonbuildingsector. manager fornonwovensatOerlikonNeumag,with nonwovens", explainsDrIngoMählmann,product For thisreason,thetrendisobviouslysettingtowards more efficientmaterialsaredemandedbythemarket. in greatchancesforthemanufacturers."Thinner, lighter, materials, inparticularfromemergingnations,results produced lastyear. An increasingdemandforthese More than3milliontonsoftechnicalnonwovenswere strongly growingmarket Oerlikon Neumag'sNonwovens Technology for a October inShanghai,People'sRepublicofChina. hall 1,standH20,atthisyear'sSINCEfrom23-25 Port-folio withemphasisontechnicalapplicationsin Oerlikon NeumagwillbepresentingtheirNonwoven Oerlikon NeumagwithanExtensiveNonwovenPlant Portfolio attheSINCE2013 170 sides onthedisplay. transport beltsandtheclearallocationofmachine excluded bythedoubletubeloaders,twopackage could createtheriskofconfusion.OnR60thisis Producing twodifferentyarnqualitiesononemachine erated asashortmachine. producing machinesides,itcanstillbeasflexiblyop- spinning machineonthemarket. With independently With upto540rotors,theR60islongestrotor pendent sides The longestmachineoffersflexibilitywithinde- consumption atleast10%lower. to competitivemachineconcepts,confirmedenergy Measurements takenatcustomershave,incomparison sipation. area thatisspecificallycooledbyinnovativeheatdis- the R60driveinverterswereconcentratedinan extended byspecificheatdissipation.Forinstance,in The lifecycleoftheelectroniccomponentscanbe losses. with theautomaticfiltercleaningavoidsunnecessary tages, astheelectronically-controlledvacuumcombined Meltblown Technology. uct spectrumcanbecovered withtheOerlikon polymers andproduciblefiberfinenesses,awideprod- customer benefits.Duetothenumerousprocessible Nonwovens atOerlikonNeumag,withregardtothe ity demands",explainsEdMcNally, SalesDirector nonwoven producersaccesstomarketswithhighqual- grading ofneworexistingspunbondplantsandoffers vendor SXSplants."Thisenablesacost-efficientup- subsequently integratedintoexistingornew, outside are nowalsoofferingtheirmeltblowntechnologytobe uct lineand,apartfromtheirstand-aloneplants,they Oerlikon Neumagisexpandingtheirnonwovensprod- Plug &Producesolution Oerlikon Neumag'sMeltblown Technology asa roof-ing underlaymentandgeotextiles. from spinningtotherolledgoods,forbitumenroofing, Sept -Oct2013 NEWS tive globalmarkets. businesses rankeitherfirstorsecondintheirrespec- products andservices.Inmostareas,theoperative in R&D,withover1200specialistsworkingonfuture in 2011. The Companyinvestedin 2011 CHF213million locations in38countriesandsalesofCHF4.2billion player withmorethan17000employeesatover150 dition goingbackover100years,Oerlikonisaglobal vanced nanotechnology. A Swisscompanywithatra- facturing, drive,vacuum,thinfilm,coating,andad- solutions andcutting-edgetechnologiesfortextilemanu- The Companyisaproviderofinnovativeindustrial group specializinginmachineandplantengi-neering. Oerlikon (SIX:OERL)isaleadinghigh-techindustrial About Oerlikon [email protected] Fax +492191284472331 Tel. +492191672331 Marketing andCorporateCommunications André Wissenberg [email protected] Fax +494321305368 Tel. +494321305105 Marketing andCorporateCommunications For furtherinformation:ClaudiaHenkel materials, canbeproduced. ing theplantcapacityandsimultaneouslysavingraw airlaid materials,butalsocombinationwebs,fullyutiliz- puts. With thenewforminghead,notonlyverylight cally attractiveproductionspeedsandplantthrough- duction ofhigh-quality, light airlaid webswitheconomi- homogeneous webformationtodayenablesthepro- extremely thinairlaidwebs. A highuniformityand Neumag issettingnewstandardsintheproductionof With thenewlydevelopedforminghead,Oerlikon Airlaid: morehomogeneitywiththinwebs Sept -Oct2013 NEWS THE TEXTILE ASSOCIA TAI BOOK PUBLICATIONS 67, RanadeRoad,Dadar(W),Mumbai-400 028 Orders acceptedbyE-Mail: [email protected] Pathare House,NexttoState BankofIndia, Tel.: 022-244611145, Fax:022-24474974 Book yourorderswith: TION (INDIA)-CentralOffice 171 fibers For furtherinformation:www.oerlikon.com/manmade- the spunbondandmeltblowntoairlaidtechnology. pliers ofawiderangenonwoventechnologies:from over, OerlikonNeumagisalsooneoftheleadingsup- of BCFcarpetyarnaswellmanmadefibers.More- nology leaderforcompleteplantstheproduc-tion Oerlikon Neumagistheworldwidemarketandtech- About OerlikonNeumag leading productsfortomorrow'sworld. and techniciansdevelopinnovativetechnologically- Neumünster andChemnitz,highly-qualifiedengineers vice organizations. At theR&DcentersinRemscheid, network ofproduction,salesanddistributionser- 120 countriesaspartoftheOerlikonManmadeFi-bers most 2500employees-haveaworldwidepresencein and China.Correspondingly, thecompanies-withal- Oerlikon Neumag'smainmarketsintheUS, Turkey primary OerlikonBarmagmarketsarein Asia, with monomer allthewaythroughtotexturedyarn.The pany nowcaterstotheentireprocess-from densation sys-temsandtheirkeycomponents,thecom- the expansionofproductrangetoincludepolycon- by energy-efficiency andsustainabletechnologies. With Group segment'sresearchanddevelopmentisdriven added chain. As afutureorientedcompany, theOerlikon vider -offerssolutionsalongtheentiretextilevalue cial turfsystemsand-asanengineeringservicespro- BCF systems,staplefiberspinningsystemsandartifi- manufacturing manmadefibers,texturingma-chines, market leaderforfilamentspinningsystemsused Oerlikon BarmagandNeumagistheworld Oerlikon ManmadeFiberswiththeproductbrands About OerlikonSegmentManmadeFibers

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association dent, IL&FSSkillsDevelopmentCorporation). sulting Pvt.Ltd.)andMr. Vivek Pandit(Vice Presi- Rajesh Bheda(Principal&CEO,Con- Hardlines, Tesco InternationalSourcing(UK)),Dr. General AEPC), Mr. Mark Astley (GeneralManager sentations ofMr. Vijay Mathur(ActingSecretary HKL Magu(MDJyoti Apparels) whichincludedpre- The firstsessiononthedaywaschairedbyMr. discussed. dress variouschallengesthatindustryfacestodaywere in Indiaanditsstandglobalindustry. Steps toad- their viewsaboutthecurrentstatusofapparelsector During theevent,speakersanddelegatesshared industrialists, manufacturers,researchinstitutesetc. sessions forworkshops.Theeventwasattendedby second includedonesessionforpresentationandtwo ing threetofourpresentationsineachsessionandthe The firstdaywasallocatedforthreesessionscompris- conference includedbothpresentationsandworkshops. India aswellabroadthatgracedthedais.The objective withtheassistanceofeminentspeakersfrom ment sector, theconferencesuccessfullyachievedits With athemethatwasfocusedoninnovationingar- Delhi. 21st September, 2013atIndiaHabitatCentre,New Okhla GarmentTextile Cluster(OGTC)on20th& Thinking" Textiles ICAHT 2013withthe Theme The 9thInternationalConferenceon Apparel &Home 9TH InternationalConferenceon Invited SpeakersM/sVivek Pandit,Dr. RajeshBheda, HKL MaguSession Chairman,Vijay Mathur Apparel &Home Textiles wasorganizedasannualconference,by and MarkAstley "Creative 2013 172 ◆ ◆ The sessionhighlightedon: Kothekar (Director, Vector ConsultingGroup,India). Birnbaum (Consultant,HongKong)andMr. Kiran Consultants Marketing&Mode,France),Mr. David of Mr. JeanMicheleGlasman(SecretServiceStyle (MD, Team Krian)whichcomprisedthepresentations The secondsessionwasheadedbyMr. Vivek Gupta ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Lal gavetheinauguraladdress followedbytheaward OGTC PathBreaker Award for2013.Mr. Madhav Late Mr. ParveenNayyarhasbeenawardedwith Uppal (President,OGTC). General, OGTC)andpresidentialaddressbyMr. PMS with welcomeaddressbyMr. R.C.Kesar(Director Chief Guestoftheconference.Inauguralsessionstarted Govt. ofIndia,MinistryMSMEwhowasalsothe was presidedbyMr. MadhavLal,IAS,Sec.MSME, Inaugural Sessionfollowedthesecondsessionwhich ◆ The sessionfocusedon: Mr. MadhavLal,IASChiefGuestdeliveringthe Competitiveness inIndian Apparel Industry model Using fashiontrendtocomeoutwithwinning Government policiesandprivatesectorinitiatives tem fortextile&apparelindustrythroughvarious Creating andeffectiveskilldevelopmentecosys- strategy forunparalleledmarketgrowth Manufacturing ascompetitivenessenhancement petitive success the 4partsofbusinessprocesstoenjoycom- Thinking holisticallyandcreativelyabouteachof Need forspecificskilldriversingarmentindustry potential Rapid responsesupplychaintounlockthehidden Inaugural address atICAHT-13 Sept -Oct2013 NEWS tations onsecondday. Fourworkshopsessionswere Eight workshopssessionfollowed themorningpresen- The topicsforthissessionwere: Jain (MDRoyalDatamaticsPvt.Ltd.). Nuvo Ltd.).ThissessionwaschairedbyMr. Gunish (General Manager- IndustrialEngineering,, Aditya Birla The Temple ofUnderstanding), Mr. P.M. Devadas presentations byDr. AK Merchant(GeneralSecretary, The nextdayoftheconferencewasstartedwiththree of thanks. Mr. M.K.Mehra(Director, OGTC)whodeliveredvote ceremony. Theinauguralsessionwaswrappedupby Sept -Oct2013 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ This sessionthrewlighton: Advisors). Prashant Agarwal (JointManagingDirector, Wazir Director, HRPracticeSmartheadConsulting) andMr. search IntoReality, USA),Ms.Reena Ahuja (Partner of Mr. MikeFralix(President&CEO, Turning Re- Modelama ExportsLtd.)whichincludedpresentations The lastsessionwaschairedbyMr. LalitGulati(MD, Mr. MadhavLal,IAS,Sec.MSME, Govt.ofIndia,Chief NEWS Guest conferred OGTCPathBreaker Award 2013on Late Mr. PraveenNayyarbeingreceived byMrs. mentation 3G trainthetrainerconceptandsystemimple- Changing forBetterorWorse-Choice isOurs Trends The Roadto2025-Market, Trade andInvestment Human Capital-InvestmentorCost? Sustainability, etc. uct Development,Manufacturing,Retailing, Trends and Technologies inSupplyChains,Prod- Vandana Nayyar 173 Smarthead Consulting)and ChangeManagementby Ms. Reena Ahuja (PartnerDirector, HRPractice Professor NIFT)and"HR perspective&Policies"by ments Industry"byMs. Suruchi Mittar(Associate workshops on"Weaving theHuman Thread inGar- tion". Thelastworkshopsessionaccommodatedthree a paneldiscussionon"BenchmarkingforCostReduc- Mr. KamalSidhu(MD,Neetee Clothing Pvt.Ltd.)and shop on"NavigatingtheManagedGlobalEconomy"by (MD MeenuCreation).Seventhsessionincludedwork- Onward" whichwaspresidedbyMr. Anil Peshawari of Apparel Merchandising intheNext5 Years and University inChina,Hong-Kong)on"FutureGlimpse ment HeadoftheGarmentDepartmentHuizhou Development" andbyMr. David Y. K. YIP (Depart- Founder, FashionFutures)on"MerchandisingSOP workshops byMs.PoojaMakhija(Directorand Wazir Advisors). Another parallelsessionincluded of plant"byMr. SomSekhar(PrincipalConsultant, linked Planning&Schedulingforoptimumefficiency (PM), NationalProductivityCouncil)and"Software Mr. M.L.Suryaprakash(Director&GroupHead "Lean ExperienceSuccess&FailuresinMSME's"by Kapur (RadnikExports)whichincludedworkshopson The fifthworkshopsessionwasheadedbyMr. Akshay GIZ. Arora CEO,CentreforResponsibleBusiness(CRB) vices Pvt.Ltd.). The sessionchairedbyDr. Bimal Sood (Director, Strategy CoolEarthSustainabilitySer- Project LearningsandFuturebenefits"byMr. Anoop Services-Global SustainabilityServices)and"OGTC Mr. Kumar Vinod (SustainabilityManager Eco-Design bon FootPrintLabelsforCompetitive Advantage" by The fourthsessioncomprisedofworkshopson"Car- chaired byMr. Vinod Kapur(MDRadnikExports). (Tax ResearchUnit)MinistryofFinance)whichwas Industry" byMr. V. K.Garg (FormalJointSecretary pertaining to"GST-Service Tax Specificto Apparel Marketing &Mode,France).Thirdworkshopwas Michele Glasman(SecretServiceStyleConsultants to Developuseful&CommercialModels"byMr. Jean which includedworkshopon"RightInformation Trends Mr. RamSareen(HeadCoach-Founder, TUKATECH) Exports). Another workshopsessionwaschairedby Mr. ParamPreetSingh(VP Operations,PeeEmpro New Thinking"byMr. PrabirJanawaspresidedby Ready ProfessionalsIAM)and"IndustrialEngineering: mentals" byMs.NeeraChandra(ShapingIndustry included twoworkshopson"SewingThreadFunda- conducted parallelatonetime.Firstsessionwhich

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association September 2014. held atIndiahabitatCentre,NewDelhion12th&13th tional Conferenceon Apparel &Home Textiles willbe The announcementwasmadethatthe10thInterna- apparel industryinIndiacomingfuture. up remarkswiththehopeofacceleratedgrowthin In theend,conferencewasconcludedwithsumming Mr. RohitRajputDirectorBulletProofManagerLCC. Mr. DavidBirnbaum,Consultant(Hong-Kong) making presentationonCompetitiveness Dress DisplayinFashionShow format by StudentsofLadyIrwinCollege Delegates attheConference in IndianApparelIndustry 174 ing topics: concept ofE-Commerce.Hertalkcoveredthefollow- The talkstartedwithMs.NidhiSomaniexplainingthe includes hairaccessories,jewelleryandartefacts. product brand.Thelinecreatedbyhernamely 'Soulfulsaai', apurelyhandmadefashionandlifestyle Editor forseveralyears,shewentontocreate Ms. Sai Vijaya Naiduaftercontributing asaFashion Head ofE-ComBusiness(Fashion&Lifestyle). with OrbyMartMarketingPvt.Ltd.,Mumbai,asthe long yearsofexperienceinretail.Presentlyisworking is acompetentFashionManagementProfessionalwith of fashionretailingandE-Commerce.MsNidhiSomani Naidu, bothhavinglongandfruitfulexperienceinfields resource people,Ms.NidhiSomaniandSai Vijaya There weretwoveryyoung,dynamicandsuccessful heights, -"E-Commerce". generation andcatapultedtheconsumermarkettonew one thathascaptivatedtheimaginationofpresent Department introducedthespeakers.Thetopicwas and theaudience.Ms. Vrinda Udaiver, facultyofthe Specialisation, Dr. ElaDedhiawelcomedthespeakers August 2013inthecollegepremises.TheHeadof a halfdayseminaron"E-Commerce"onthe28thof College ofHomeScience-NirmalaNiketanorganised The specialisationof Textile andFashionTechnology, sity ofMumbai Technology, NirmalaNiketan, Affiliated totheUniver- Organised bySpecialisationof Textiles andFashion ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Future Trends inE-Commerce E-Commerce trendinIndia Transaction Process inE-Commerce E-Commerce -BenefitsfromIT Potential ofE-Commerce E-Commerce: Whatisit? E-COMMERCE INFASHION Sept -Oct2013 NEWS ness, namely: on toexplainthefivemodelsinE-Commercebusi- nally byfashionandlifestyleproducts.Shethenwent tickets, hotelbookings,hometools&productsandfi- gadgets followedbycomputerandperipherals,airline categories; wheretheleadingcategorywaselectronic This wasfollowedbyapeekintothetopE-Commerce Commerce isbeneficialinmanyways. turer andmostimportantlytotheconsumer. Thus E- online eachday".Thusitisbeneficialtothemanufac- highly profitablebusinessbyspendingonlyafewhours world. E-Commerceensuresthatanyonecanruna economic opportunityformillionsofpeoplealloverthe wide community, groundedincommerceandenabling and CEO,eBay, whosaid"Internetiscreatingaworld- enjoys fromITandquotedMegWhitman,President She thenemphasizedonthebenefitsthatE-Commerce ◆ She startedbyexplainingtheconceptofE-Commerce, ◆ Sept -Oct2013 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ NEWS for manufacturers B2B (BusinesstoBusiness) -eg.Trading: only the week,withoutanyholidays. It isoperationalthroughoutthedayandalldaysof through auctions,andfinally There isbettervarietyandvalueenhancement shopping fromhome It hastheadvantageofspeed&convenience ping canhappenonthegofromanywhere. All transactionsarejustaclickawayandshop- internet. available forsaleisreadilyaccessibleonthe need notknowthelocallanguage;asallthatis barrier asoneneednotgoanywhereandalso It isindependentofgeographicalorlanguage any time,buyalmostanythingfromanywhere. a 24hrsshoppingmallwhere,anyonecanshop Unlike Brick&MortarMarketplace,E-Comis tronic system;andlastly of productsorservicesisconductedoverelec- It isatypeofindustrywherebuyingandselling world. world andbuyanythingfromanywhereinthe Place"- whereonecansitinanycornerofthe It isan"Anytime, Anything, Anywhere Market and elaboratedbysayingthat: Case Study 175 India andsaidthat: potential, shecitedamarketsurveydoneonE-Com in To provethepopularityofthisbusiness anditsgreat invoice ofsoldproducts. sion &servicechargestoeBayafterreceivingthe followed bythesellerwhohastointurnpaycommis- logistic partner. Ebaywouldthenpaythesellerin30days dispatch theproductinstipulatedtimethroughany of thesoldproducts,afterwhichsellerwouldto Ebay wouldthensendmailonthesellers'registeredid buyer wouldbeabletoseetheproductandbuyit. with alltherequireddetails.Thiswouldensurethata on thesite,andthenfinallystartingtouploadproducts followed bygettingregisteredandacceptingallterms would betofindawebsitewhereonewishessell; site eBaywascitedasanexample.Thefirststep E-Com transactionprocess.ThepopularE-Commerce This wasfollowedbyastepexplanationofthe ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Tax online,Visas G2C (GovernmenttoCitizens)-eg.Passport.gov.in, G2B (GovernmenttoBusiness)-eg.tender.gov.in C2C (ConsumertoConsumer)-eg.ebay.com B2C (BusinesstoConsumer)-eg. Amazon and growing@41% fastest growingmarketadding over18billionusers Among theBRICNations, Indiahasbeenthe most 40%oftotalusers. In 2012,thefemalepopulationcontributedtoal- yrs. 75% ofthetotalusersarebetweenage15-34 months. India hasshownexplosivegrowthinlast18

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Thus forthemanufacturersithelpsfurther, assistingin another company. particular productofonecompanyfroma of necessary; Differentiateasithelpsusdifferentiate a as werememberthenameandcallrecallitwhenever namely, Identificationwithtradename;RecallValue tance andthevariousadvantagesitgivesaproduct, the topic,Brandingwasdiscussedalongwithitsimpor- Branding; Handmade;andOnline.Thefirstaspectof them online.Shedividedhertopicintothreeaspects: procedure ofcreatinghandmadeproductsandselling ful entrepreneurofbrand"SoulfulSaai"dealtwiththe The secondspeakerMs.SaiVijaya Naidu,asuccess- advantage ofthisgreatopportunitycalledE-Commerce. were alsosettothinkabouthowtheycouldtakefull eryone enjoyedaswellunderstoodthetopicand The easeandfluidityofexplanationensuredthatev- story inIndia. steadily tootherproducts.Theirsisthebiggestsuccess Flipkart, initiallysellingonlybooksandthenslowly trade. TheycamebacktoIndiaandstartedwith and tookupjobsat Amazon andlearntthetricksof started bytheBansalbrotherswhoweretrainedinIIT She concludedwithacasestudyofFlipkartthatwas to besuccessful future trendsofE-Comwerealsodiscussed:Inorder Emphasizing thefactthatthisisjustbeginning, ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Sales: allthiswilldefinitely increasesales der topromotetheirown Marketing: comparisonof various productsinor- is availableinthemarket Advertising: sinceconsumersneedtoknowwhat differentiate inthelongrun. One mustbepreparedtomovebeyondEnglish soon asFDIconstraintsarelifted. Multibrand retailersshouldbereadytolaunchas part oftheE-Commercemixfromstart. Savvy businessesshouldmakemobilephonesa different partners. e-Businesses mustbewillingtoworkwithmany quality hasboostedoverallsales. centric paymentoptionsandimprovedservice Models likeCashonDeliveryandotherconsumer markets worldwideinlast12months. India isalsoamongthetop3fastestgrowing 176 ping anditsadvantagessuchas The thirdaspectofthetopicdealtwithOnlineShop- easily availableandifitisexpensive. least thatitneedsskilledlabour, whichisfirstlynot product hastobecraftedbyhandandlastbutnotthe machines areused;itisatimetakingprocessaseach as handmadescannotbemassproducedsinceno However, certainchallengeswerealsohighlighted,such ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Features of'Handmade'productsthatarenot'Branded'? The threeaspectswerethenputtogether ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ as However, certainchallengeswerehighlightedtoo,such ◆ ◆ ◆ made products,suchas The nextpartdealtwiththecharacteristicsofhand- beforehand) when orderisgiven(noneedtomakeinbulk Can beCustomized:thatismadetoorder;asand made products Human Touch: Specialfeatureuniquetoallhand- crochet ing, stitchlengthinembroideryorloop change whentheproductismadee.g.blockprint- Every pieceisUnique:sincesmallvariablesmay It isusuallytheun-organized sector, aseachper- products cess, andthuscannotbemass producedlikemill uct ismadebyhand,it a timeconsumingpro- These arenotmassproducedbecauseeachprod- ping, sinceitistransportedfromafar. There arepossibilitiesofdamagesduringship- product immediately a greatdistancethuswecannotbuyandusethe Waiting forthedelivery, asitmaybecomingfrom product beforepurchasing There maybesizingissuesaswecannottrythe and householdclothing it isextremelyimportantespeciallyforapparel One cannottouchorfeeltheproduct,eventhough finally atyourdoorstep purchase aproduct,itisatyourfingertipsand need nottakethetroubleofgoinganywhereto Receiving theproductsatyourdoorstep:aswe easily accessible;andfinally Purchasing productsfromanywhereintheworld: available locally Shopping fromanywhere:productneednotbe Sept -Oct2013 NEWS ently havingfarreaching results. Use oftechnologyisthe fastest methodthatispres- basic purposeofcreating the productisfulfilled. now havetomakeitavailabletheclients,sothat Once wehavecreatedourproductandbrandedit, 3. BrandingtheHandmade:Thetagthatiscreated 2. Tagging aHandmadeProduct:Everyproductmust 1. the advantagesofbranding brand ourproductinsuchawaythatwetoogainfrom Thus, sheemphasizedthatweneedtolearnhow for thesamereasonastheywerecitedbefore. However brandingofhandmadeproductsisimportant ◆ Sept -Oct2013 ◆ NEWS tags used,sothatitiseasilydiscernable. effectively. Itshouldalsobedifferent thantheother we wanttoconveythroughourbrandinstantlyand should beattractiveandgivethemessage uct. seen, butyetdoesnotmarthebeautyofprod- ucts. Tagging shouldbedonein placethatiseasily tity andcanbedifferentiatedfromsimilarprod- be taggedwithalabel,sothatithasreadyiden- sell becauseithasbeenordered. Branding isnon-requisite,sincetheproductwill has tobedone,itwilltaketime;andfinallythat sion regardingsomechangeinproductionaspect products immediatelyorinperson.Soifadeci- kets theymaynotknowthefeedbackfortheir Since theartisansarefarawayfrommainmar- is avoided. tage, asproblemsarisingduetoorganizedsector do notapply. Butthiscanbetakenasanadvan- groups, thusrulespertainingtoorganizedsector son isworkingindividuallyoratthemostinsmall 177 Selling She thenstressedoncertainimportantaspectsofOnline Buyandsell:finallybuy yourrawmaterialandsell 4. Converse:withdifferentmanufacturers,experts, 3. Discover:whatisalreadythereandin 2. Oneneedstoconnectandexchange:buildrela- 1. working onthesesites. This wasfollowedbythestepsonhastofollowwhile web-site create foroneselfa A facebookpage,ablogsiteor She alsosaidthatinadditiontothis,onecan Mirraw Etsy, e-bay, Itshandmade,Craftsvilla,Indiebazaar, websites whereonecanadvertise: Ms. SaiVijaya thengaveafewexamplesofthe ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ucts werediscussed: Then theadvantagesof"HandmadeandOnline"prod- yours. of variousproductsthatwillbecompetingwith your readyproduct,inaplacethatisalreadyfull to buyrawmaterialetc. shoppers; regardingwhatisneeded,bestsources demand and consumers tionships inamarketplacethatconnectsproducers can startoffwithwhatisavailableathome. require abigcapitalinvestmenttobeginwith,and of producingorstockinginbulk,onedoesnot It requireslowinvestment:sincethereisnoneed scope ofbeingmadeexactlytoorder. there isnobulkproduction,everyproducthasthe There istremendousscopeforcustomization:since the globe,withjustclickofabutton. access towhatisavailableontheothersideof not restrictedbygeographicalrestrictions,buthas who arelookingforhandmadeproducts:oneis Ithelpstoreachoutpeopleacrosstheglobe as tocoloursorsizesavailable. tographed aestheticallyanduploadedwithdetails not necessary. Oneproductcanbecreated,pho- can seeit,manufacturingandstockinginbulkis product hastobejustadvertisedsothatpeople There isnoneedtomaintainhugestocks:asthe One hastobewellacquainted withemailing, Both partiesbenefitequally ComputerSkills Thus encouragingthecustomers topurchasemore customer thebestpossible price. Since oneisthedirectsellercanoffera focuses ontheproduct.SmartPricing Photography: attractiveandgoodphotographythat

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association by sayingthat: She concludedhertalkbyencouragingallthosepresent be donethroughothersites it takeslongerandthatpaymentbycreditcardscould or chequedepositscanbedoneoneshouldrealizethat age onlinetransfersasit'squicker. Eventhough,cash having anaccountinanationalizedbank,andencour- One alsohastobeableperformonlinebanking,by tance: Packaging andShippingshouldalsobegivenimpor- and marketaproducttoprospectivebuyers. All theabovecouldbeeffectivelyusedtoshare,spread like, Facebook,Twitter, Whatsapp orBlogsites Advertising canalsohappenonvarioussocialmedia ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Lakshmi Machine Works ITMACH Exhibition Rieter India Ltd. Introducing TAI Website A-10 InFasion A-9 A-11 PremierColorscanInstrumentsPvt.Ltd. Global Textile Congress2014 Birla Cellulose Lenzing AG - India Branch Aspire ChemicalsPvt.Ltd. A-12 Alpenol A-3 All India Textile Conference Advertise WebPartner A.T.E. EnterprisesPvt.Ltd. advance importance, sothatonecanstartworkingwellin Cost versusdeliverytimeshouldbegivenutmost out, sothatprofitismaximum. The bestpossibleshippingcostsshouldbechecked yet durabletillitreachesthecustomer Care toseethatpackaginghasbeattractive available: bubblepacking,corrugatedetc. Researchshouldbedoneonkindofpackaging features. Basic Copywritingtodescribetheproductandit's uploading andbasicphotoshopskills. ADVERTISEMENT INDEX - T A-8 oe3World Traders Mfg. Cover3 A-16 PrecisionRubberInd.Pvt.Ltd. A-4 A-14 - ejyLkhiEgneigWrsA-7 Veejay LakshmiEngineering Works A-6 -5SSPPvt.Ltd. A-15 UnitechT " 178 Thymas ElectronicsPvt.Ltd. Reliance IndustriesLtd. ruetzschler IndiaPvt.Ltd- ment inourchosenfields. positive energyaboutachievingsuccessandcontent- the department.Therewasspreadoflotshopeand thanks proposedbyMs.NehaMulchandani,Facultyof home andthinkabout.Thetalkendedwithavoteof ers andallofthemwereleftwithsomethingtotake of thespeakerswasinstantlytransferredtolisten- interesting andinformative.Theinfectiousenthusiasm listeners wasproofenoughthatthesessionvery sion. Theinteractionbetweenthespeakersand The sessionsconcludedwithaquestion-answerses- upto thedelivery. the completeprocessfromcreatingaproductright products online.Thisprovedtobeanindepthstudyof ence inwhichcreatingwasexplainedandsellingher completing thebasics,shegaveherpersonalexperi- interesting throughthevariousexamplesshecited. After Each aspectwasdealtwithindetailandmadevery ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ all aroundtheworldatclickofamouse. Online advertisinghelpstoreachoutcustomers uct andalsooneself, Branding themcancreateanidentityfortheprod- Online isidealmediumforhandmadeproducts Now isthetimethatright echmech Pvt.Ltd. Sept -Oct2013 Cover 4 Cover 1 Cover 2 P-125,139 A-5 A-1 A-2 A-13 NEWS port ofRieter. licensee forrotoryarns-andtobenefitfromthesup- mote theiryarns,thecompanydecidedtobecomea 60 rotorspinningmachines.Inordertooptimallypro- St. MeerisdedicatedtoyarnqualityspunonRieterR Sept -Oct2013 national Industry& Trade Co.,Ltd. belongstoQingdao The completeRieterrotorspinningmill,St.MeerInter- L toR:MichaelDanielsson(HeadSalesRieterChina), NEWS St. Meer BecomesRieter'sLatest Please updatetheircontact informationbySendinguse-mail toupdateourwebsite Com4®rotor YarnLicensee Mr. SunYang (President ofSt. MeerGroup) Customers visitSt.Meer'sspinningplant during Ceremonialpresentation. in China THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION(INDIA) [email protected], [email protected] All Membersof Attention 179 the implementationoftheirownmarketingactions. these activities,Rietersupportslicensedcustomerswith Com4® yarnfurthertrainingcourses.Overandabove pertise ofRieterspecialistsandtoparticipatein customers havetheopportunitytoprofitfromex- link ontheRieterwebsitetolicensee.Licensed of licensedyarns,onethemeasuresbeingadirect Rieter activelysupportsandpromotesthesupplysources License packagefromRieter Day inQingdao. was theconcludingactivityofRieterCustomer from ShandongProvinceparticipatedinthisvisitwhich to theSt.Meerspinningmill.Morethan70customers China tookplaceon19July2013duringthegroupvisit The referencemillceremonyoftheRieterrotorlinein 12. end of2013,thenumberR60swillbeincreasedto complete R60rotorlineshavebeeninstalled.Bythe lation of3R60rotorspinningmachines. To date,6 St. Meersetupitsspinningmillin2010withtheinstal- Successful withtheR60rotorspinningmachine and todevelopcustomerrelationships. form towinnewcustomersforrotoryarnsinfuture yarns thusoffersSt.Meertheoptimalpromotionplat- The Rieteryarnlicenseforhigh-qualityCom4®rotor able toproducehighqualityNe740rotoryarns. fully automatedspinningequipmentR60,theplantis With theintroductionofworld'smostadvanced cotton bondedwarehousealsooccupying10000m2. ning millcoveringanareaof10000m2andthemodern Export ProcessingIndustrialParkwiththerotorspin- The plantislocatedonthewestcoastinQingdao China The firstfullyautomaticRieterrotorlineinnorth ers ofrotoryarnsinNorthChina. St. MeerGroupandisoneoftheleadingmanufactur-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association received highreputationbothdomesticallyandabroad. Material Science,andInformation Technology have Fashion Design, Textile Engineering,InternationalTrade, of EducationChina.Itsfeaturedisciplines,suchas of thestate-keyuniversitiesdirectlyunderMinistry Textile University, wasfoundedin1951.DHUisone ion, technology, andtransport.DHU,formerlyChina influence incommerce,culture,finance,media,fash- China's eastcoastline.Shanghaiisaglobalcity, with (DHU) inShanghaiCityislocatedthemiddleof October 23rdto26th,2013.TheDonghuaUniversity Donghua UniversityinShanghaiCity, Chinafrom 12th Asian Textile Conference(ATC-12) washeldat members inturn. ATC isheldeverytwoyearsandhostedbyFAPTA work between Asian textilescientistsandengineers. science andengineeringtobuildupaglobalnet- ference istodiscussthelatestachievementontextile ficial eventofFAPTA. The initialpurposeofthiscon- Asia. Asian Textile Conference (ATC) isthesoleof- composed ofeightprofessionaltextileorganizationsin tions (FAPTA) wasestablishedin1991anditisnow The Federationof Asian Professional Textile Associa- conference programisrather denseandrich,offering textile andotherconvergence technologyfield.The developments andtrends, as wellfutureoutlookof "New Prospectson Textiles", withafocusonthelatest from 23countries.Themainthemeof ATC-12 was The conferencewasattendedbyabout900delegates Dr. Anil Gupta,NationalVice President andMr. V.N. Patil, Hon.Treasurer, TAI alongwithothermembers of FAPTA Board 180 with satisfactionoftheparticipants. sented intheplenarysession.Theconferenceended University, China),JaeRyoun Youn (Korea)pre- Thomas Gries(Germany), Weilin Xu( Wuhan Textile Carr (UK),Jianyong Yu (Donghua University, China), Ruizhe Sun(China), Toshihiro Hirai(Japan),Chris presentations (thenumberofabsenteesisnotknown). tures, 137generaloralpresentationsand348poster ATC-12 provided7plenarylectures,58invitedlec- ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ under bracket)asfollows: a considerablevarietyoftopicscovered(sessioncode Dr. Anil Gupta along withotherdignitariesonthedais Dr. Anil GuptaandMr. V.N. PatilofTAI, alongwith Modern TextileTechniqueEquipment (S4). High QualityTechnical Textiles (S3). Nanotechnology inTextiles (S2). Advanced PolyesterFibersandMaterials(S1). Textile Performance-Testing andEvaluation(G5). Clothing and Accessories (G4). Eco-Dyeing/Finishing andGreenChemistry(G3) Fiber toFabricProcessing(G2). Fibrous andLowDimensionalMaterials(G1). Prof. SeyedHajirBehrami,Iran Sept -Oct2013 NEWS and Turkey tojoinFAPTA and therepresentatives tries likeIndonesia,Singapore,Pakistan,Bangladesh ATC-13. Itwasdiscussedtoinviteother Asian Coun- Hon. Treasurer of TAI willbetheFAPTA Membertill Anil Gupta,National Vice PresidentandMr. V.N. Patil, appointed asnewChairmanofFAPTA till ATC-13. Dr. Sun, China Textile EngineeringSociety, Chinawas to holdnext ATC-13 at Australia in2015.Mr. Ruizhe During theBoardMeetingofFAPTA, itwasdecided tribution toFAPTA. fering aMementobyFAPTA forhisoutstandingcon- The Textile Association (India)washonoredwithof- During ATC-12, Mr. M.K.Mehra,PastPresidentof Sept -Oct2013 two internationalconferencesatTIT&SinIndia. his alloutefforts,thememberinstituteshaveorganized nical UniversityofLiberec,CzechRepublic.Dueto he led The TIT&StoenterintoaMoUwiththe Tech- Awardees oftheprestigiousItalian Technology Award, collaborating withleadingglobaltextileinstitutes. thered thecauseof Textile Educationinthecountryby and ambitiousdirectortohisalma-mater, hehasfur- global reputeinthefieldof Textile education. A proud Dr. RishiJamdagni,Director TIT&S isaprofessorof NEWS since 1939 Published regularly Dr. RishiJamdagnipresenting hispaper TIT&S DirectorinvitedinTEXSCI-2013 Subscribe Today International Seminar 181 Indian textilefraternity. It's amatterofpridetohisalma-materTIT&Sand tion whichhasyetanotherconferenceinthepipeline. ties onIndo-Czechco-operationinthefieldofeduca- Dr. JamdagniwasalsoconsultedbytheCzechauthori- Blended FabrictoChemicalFinishing". Thermal PhysicalComfortPropertyofPolyester-Modal sion BehaviorofWoven Fabrics"and"Responseof Textile",of Water"Characterization Vapors Transmis- sented "ApplicationofCarbonNano Tube (CNT)in Rishi Jamdagniotherfacultymembershavealsopre- ated himforhisexcellentpresentation. Along withDr. ter FilterFabricforDustControl".Everyoneappreci- paper "StudyofNeedlePunchedNon-wovenPolyes- Pannu, studentofTIT&Shaspresentedhisresearch invited forthisseminar. Duringtheseminar Mr. Sunny from South Asia wasamongothercountry, whowas the globe.Dr. Jamdagniwastheonlysingleperson dressed textileprofessionalsandscientistsfromacross the Inaugural Address at TEXSCI-2013. Hehasad- specially invitedfromSouth Asia toLiberecdeliver It isyetanotherfeathertohiscapthathehasbeen ence, FAPTA BoardMeetingandotherfunctions. Patil, Hon. Treasurer attendedthis ATC-12 confer- Dr. Anil Gupta,National Vice PresidentandMr. V.N. mittee. OnbehalfofThe Textile Association (India), of thememberstheirInternational Advisory Com- tions andNationalPresidentofthe Association isone The Textile Association (India)isoneoftheorganiza- Among eightprofessional Textile Organizations in Asia, Asian Countries. ownership willbewithFAPTA anditwillremainwith cided tohaveapermanentbaseforFAPTA andthe should bekeyscientificprofessionals.Itwasalsode-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association Conference intheyear1985. cessfully 3rdInternational&42nd All India Textile Unit hadaverygoodexperienceoforganizingsuc- having morethan800members.TAI -SouthGujarat (India) wasestablishedintheyear1967andpresently The SouthGujaratUnitof The Textile Association annual conferenceeveryyear. 23,000 frompanIndia.Since,1939, TAI organizes an in thecountry, accountingformemberstrengthofover There are26affiliatedunitsatvarioustextilecenters "Indian Textiles -GlobalProspectsandPerceptions". the Taj GatewayHotel,Surat.Conference Theme is Textile Conferenceon20th&21stDecember, 2013at Unit isorganizing 11th International&69th All India tion, The Textile association(India)-SouthGujarat Platinum Jubileethisyear. To commemoratethefunc- service tothetextileindustry. TAI iscelebratingits year 1939andnowitispoisedtocross75yearsof sionals oftextileinIndia. TAI wasestablishedinthe and largestnationalbodyamongotherseveralprofes- The Textile Association (India)istheforemostleading fabric producingandmarketing hub. finished fabricsandtherefore ithasbecomeaverybig Surat ishavingabout50,000 wholesalersofgreyand garment manufacturing. tering intodifferentsegmentsoftechnicaltextilesand in valueaddition.SuratTextile industriesarealsoen- been installedinSurattohelpthefabricmanufacturers export market. About 1 lakhembroiderymachineshave lished tomeetwiththeirrequirementsoflocaland per day. Also thereareover500processhousesestab- over 30millionmeters/dayin100varietiesoffabrics In Surat,thereareover8lakhpowerloomsproducing Mr. R.S.Bachkaniwala,announcingfor69th AITC Theme: India Textiles -GlobalProspects andPerceptions 69th All India TextileIndia Conference 69th All 11th International& 182 dress theconference. Mr. Sevalay, Mr. Sainiandothershaveagreed toad- and IndianspeakerslikeDr. Kamat, Mr. Arvind Sinha, rector ofMarzoliSpA,Italy. Dr. Christian Schumacher Foreign speakerslikeMr. DavidFaini, Managing Di- edge. industrialists tosharetheirvaluedexperienceandknowl- ence, itexpectslearnedtechnocratsandexperienced competitive globaltextilemarkets.Duringtheconfer- those stakeholderswhoarewillingtoenterintothe Chairman, theconferencewillprovideaplatformtoall According toMr. R.S.Bachkaniwala,Conference Indian companiessignificantmarginadvantage. workers adeptatvalue-addingtasks,whichcouldgive 100 mmetersinnearfuture.Indiaisrichtraditional 650 mmetersperannum,isexpectedtoaddanother denim manufacturingcapacity, which standsat600- to around7%overthenextthreeyears. Also, the exports isexpectedtoincreasefromthecurrent4% to touchUS$140bn.India'sshareofglobaltextile an averageannualrateof11% between2011 and2020 Currently, Indiantextile industryisexpectedtogrowat the secondlargestproviderofemployment. provides directemploymenttoover35mpeopleandis and 12%tothecountry'sexportearningsin2011. It 14% toindustrialproduction,4%thecountry'sGDP dustry (valuedatUS$7bnin2011) contributedabout As pertheMinistryof Textiles, theIndian Textile in- second largestproduceroftextilesacrosstheglobe. The Indian Textile industryisalsoconsideredtobethe exports arehighlyinfluencedbythetextileindustry. The Indianeconomiesaswelltheearningsfrom Mr. R.S.Bachkaniwalameetingpress conference Sept -Oct2013 NEWS than 20%steamindryingranges! mizing steamsavings-savesmore Mahlo Atmoset-12 -thekeytoopti- Sept -Oct2013 but higherenergycostsaswell. results ininconsistentfabricqualityduetooverdrying, ties, oftenexcesssteamisconsumed.Thisnotonly short lengthofthebatchesanddifferentfabricquali- This meansthatincontinuousprocessing,duetothe could beover-dried. means thatlightertextilesbeingrunonadryingrange rics. Heaviertextilerequiresmoretimetodry-which kinds offabricssodryingtimesaresetforthesefab- speed ofthedryeriskeptconstantformanydifferent desired percentageofmoisture,etc.Butoften,the several factors-thetimerequiredfortreatment, rics shouldbedriedatspeedsthataredeterminedby sure thatheavierGSMfabricaredriedaswell.Fab- they aredesignedwithahighfactorofsafetytoen- amount ofsteamintheentirewetprocessinglineas drying ranges-thesemachinesutilisethemaximum processing textiles.Thisisparticularlytrueforvertical Utilities formamajorchunkofthecostsinvolvedin produce consistentlygoodqualityproducts. ploy measuresneededtosaveoncostsaswell added inthemix,whichisforcingcompaniestoem- erating costs.Intensecompetitionisanotherfactor facturers areactivelylookingforwaystoreduceop- have affectedindustriesacrosstheworldandmanu- The risingcostofrawmaterial,oil,power, andwater Challenges facingIndiantextilemanufacturers NEWS 183 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ a numberofadvantages,asfollows: Mahlo's Atmoset SMT-12 isaprovenproductthathas Advantages trollers. this, The Atmoset usesavarietyofsensorsandcon- input variablesintoaccountatthesametime. To do stable controloftheresidualmoisturewhiletakingall Intelligent controlleralgorithmsprovidearapidbutvery ing sensors. the fabricasitleavesdryer, usingspecial measur- second controlloopmeasurestheresidualmoistureof the condensatetemperatureofdrumdryers.The The firstcontrolloopisusedtomeasureand Vertical dryingrangesaredividedintocontrolloops. Working quality withlessenergyconsumption. the productorwebspeed.Theresultisbetter drying isalwaysreached,regardlessoftheweight the steamsupplytorollers.Theoptimaldegreeof perature fromapresetpoint-andaccordinglyadjusts as afunctionofthedeviationcondensatetem- by calculatingtheamountofenergyrequiredfordrying function oftheproduct'sresidualmoisture.Itdoesthis drum dryersbycontrollingthedryer'sheatoutputasa Atmoset SMT-12 isdesignedtomonitorandcontrol Optipac VMC-12modularprocesscontrolsystem,the being runonthedryingrange.BasedMahlo's that optimizestheheatoutputdependingonproduct The Mahlo Atmoset SMT-12 unitisauniquedevice Solution user interface. Easy toinstallandeasy retrofit withanin-built ers whichresultsinreduced investmentcosts during theinitialprojectplanningwithcustom- The drumdryerscanbeoptimallydimensioned web speed regardless oftheweightproductor The optimaldegreeofdryingisalwaysreached, terruption vous systemoftheequipmentworkswithoutin- The productdesignensuresthatthecentralner- Higher savingsleadingtofasterpayback cantly duetotheoptimizedheatoutput Energy consumptionofthedryerdropssignifi- ducibility oftheproductqualityareensured Continuity oftheproductionprocessandrepro- stant residualmoistureonfabricatthedelivery Consistent fabricqualityisachievedduetocon-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association processed isplottedontheverticaly-axis. and amountofsteaminkgconsumedperfabric moisture ofthefabricisplottedonhorizontalx-axis approximately 35-45%savingispossible.Residual sumption using Atmoset SMT-12. Itcanbeseenthat Above graphshowstheoverallsavinginsteamcon- pulse generatorisbasedon amagnetringandsensor The magneticmeasuring principle oftheB92EVO draw frames. D 40candnowalsoforRSB-D2222c RSB-D 30c,35,35c,40,RSB- ing. TheconversionkitisavailableforRSB-D30, improved measuringaccuracy-evenwithheavysoil- The non-contactB92EVOpulsegeneratorfacilitates The newB92EVOpulsegeneratorconsistingofsensor Non-contact B92EVOPulse and magnetring Generator 184 5. Welspun, Anjar - 8 units 4. PremierMills,Hosur-1unit 3. PremierFineLinens-1unit 2. Auro Industries-7units 1. Alok Industries-12units SMT-12 isinstalledandworkingsatisfactorily: Some keyreferences wheretheMahlo Atmoset ◆ ◆ ◆ Important tips ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Advantages: no longerexist. contact-free measuring.Bearingsthatcouldwearout achieved bythenewB92EVOpulsegeneratorthrough A longerlifecyclecomparedtoitspredecessoris measuring accuracyandfunctionalsafety. The vibrationresistancealsoensuresahighlevelof tremely dustyenvironmentalconditionswithfiberfly. generator allowafaultlessapplicationevenunderex- erties (ProtectionClassIP67)oftheB92EVOpulse The highshock/vibrationresistanceanddustproofprop- ing principle. shaft isdeliveredtofacilitatethisnon-contactmeasur- head. With olderdrawframemodels,anadditional of steamconsumed ensure uniformevaporationofmoistureperkilo Run similarqualityoffabricsinbiggerlotsto consumption moisture onthefabricandaccordinglyadjuststeam mode, sothatthe Textometer RMScansensethe Once thevaluesareset,runmachinein AUTO cessed quality andconstructionofthefabrictobepro- Set theresidualmoisturevaluedependingon of productionbythedraw frame Easy installationandthus rapid recommencement only oncenecessaryforfittingthemagneticring Removal andinstallationofthemaindriveshaftis existing cable The electricalconnectioncanbemadewiththe are requiredwhichcouldwearout Significantly longerservicelife,sincenobearings sensor Non-contact measuringsystemwithB92EVO Sept -Oct2013 NEWS vinced technologicalchoicesmeantmanydealswere various citiesitsawgood-qualityvisitorswhosecon- This focusexhibitioncenteredonseriousbuyersfrom late researchintoresultsandpoolourresources. enabled ustoattractmany. Howeverweneedtotrans- brings anevenwiderrangeofpossibilitiesandhas alists inKanpur. This exhibitioncomplementsthemand co-operation andbroughtlatesttechnologyforindustri- According tohim''thisexhibitionhassetstandardsfor associations viewedintelligentmachineryandsystems. Jaiswal Dy. director, amongvariousrepresentativesof Govt. ofIndia)Mr. SanjeevChawla,andMr. H.P. Kanpur alongTheDirectorofMSME(Min.MSME, and SriBalramNarula,ManagingDirector, Jetknitwear, Director KingInternationalandPresidentCLE(North) Exhibition wasinauguratedbySri Taj Alam, Managing various citiesregisteredforthethreedaysviewing. industry, academicinstitutionandPublic Authorities from machinery andservices.Decisionmakersrepresenting gether theideaandinnovationforleather, footwear Brijendra SwaroopPark,Kanpur(U.P.) brought to- The eventorganisedfrom18-20October2013at with demonstrations. for theevent,showcasingresultsandachievements Igmatex exhibitionagainservedasamajorfocalpoint Sept -Oct2013 NEWS Laser andRaisingmachines raise theattraction 185 more satisfaction. were satisfactoryandthenextshowpromisedtobring and hosierytimes,Onceagain,thisyear'sexpectations footwear newsofIndia,EssentialMedia, Apparel Views ATDC, andmediapartnerswereIndianLeather, The Golden LaserIndia, Vabhave Globalmach,Kamalsales, Narinder international,GSL Textiles, Wenli International, Arun electronics, Arora Vinyl, M.A.enterprises, chines, Optitex,Swatioverseas,Magmatechnologies, Gopi Engg.&Sons,fromnorthIndiaMehalaMa- Sud south Asia, RamsonsgarmentFinishingEquipments, Servokon Engineers,fromSouthIndiaPRgroups,TUV accessories, MetroSewingMachines,ShoeMac, Jai sewingmachines, ALT, Ruchienterprises,Ecoshoe Traders, KhannaPharmaceuticals,Global International, The ProminentexhibitorswerefromKanpurGenius and socialequilibrium. production phasecompatiblewiththeenvironmental antee notonlytheirproductqualitybutalsoanentire leading technologytoprovidesolutionsthatwillguar- Unchahaar arealsovisited.Kanpurexpecttheworld's and themembersofofficialdelegationsfromNTPC exhibition from Akola, Nagpur, Nepal,Kanpur, Lucknow, goods andapparelmanufacturerswhovisitedthe Kanpur, Chennai,Ranipet,Bangalore,footwear, leather- the exhibitorsfromNewDelhi, Ahmedabad, Ludhiana, the stands;therewaswidespreadsatisfactionamong clinched attheevent,ornegotiationscommencedon

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association fully organized The Textile Association (India)MumbaiUnitsuccess- activities indifferentverticals textilevaluechain.He right uptoSurat,whichis buzzing withmanufacturing about theindustrialbeltstarting from Tarapur, Umargam Mr. G.V. Aras, ExhibitionChairmanexpressedhisviews industrial districtsofthestateGujarat. happy toorganizethisat Vapi whichisthefinancial& comed thegatheringandsaidthatMumbaiUnitwas Mr. C.Bose,PresidentofTAI, MumbaiUnitwel- memorable exhibition. the bestpossibleway. Itwasreallyappreciableand tirelessly sincelastsixmonthsandorganizedthefair at Exhibition ConvenorandMr. Anil Mahajanhasworked tempt by TAI MumbaiunitandMr. HareshParekh, ness networking.INDIATEX2013wasthefirstat- reported thatthefairpovidedanopportunityforbusi- Daman &Diuandotherpartofthecountry. Itis neurs andownersfromthe Vapi, Silvassa,Umergam, expo wasvisitedbytechnocratsandselectentrepre- for mutualadvantageandcommercialinteraction.The vice providersunderoneroofprovidedagoodplatform The MachineryManufacturersand Technology Ser- of Honourontheinauguralsessionexhibition. Rubber IndustriesPvt.Ltd.,MumbaiweretheGuest President, ITAMMA & Machines Pvt.Ltd.,SuratandShriDevenG. Dembla, Rajnikant S.Bachkaniwala,DirectorPalodHimson Gujarat wastheChiefGuestforoccasion.Shri Head (Project& Technology), iNDECb,Govt.of rector, The CenterforEntrepreneursDevelopment& in theVIA Auditorium. Dr. ChandanChatterjee,Di- The inauguralfunctionoftheexhibitionwasorganized was theStatePartnerofthisexhibition. Textiles, Govt.ofIndiaandiNDEXTb,Gujarat was supportedbyTextile Commissioner, Ministryof over thecountryexhibitedatevent.Thisexhibition manner witharound90distinguishedexhibitorsfromall This exhibitionwasorganizedinaveryprofessional Vapi,GIDC, trial Association, Gujarat. 18th-20th October, 2013at VIA Ground, Vapi Indus- "INDIA TEX2013" Managing Director, Precision Textile Exhibition-Fibre toFashion exhibitionduring INDIATEX 2013 186 efforts. is averydifficulttaskand needslotofmanpowerand the organizersinrespectof organizingexhibitionasit dustrial beltinthestateof Gujarat.Healsocautioned for organizingthisexhibitioninthefastlygrowingin- Mr. RajnikantBackhaniwalacongratulatedMumbaiUnit their kindsupport. time. Hethankedalltheexhibitorsandsupportersfor challenge astheMumbaiUnitdoingitforfirst producers. Hesaidthatorganizingexhibitionwasabig ers, distributorsandmanufacturersoffabrictextile that IndiaTex 2013isanexhibitionforsuppliers,buy- Mr. Haresh Parekh, ConvenorofthisExhibitionsaid the decisiontoholdthisexhibitionat Vapi. said forthesereasonstheorganizingcommitteetook Dr. ChandanChatterjee,ChiefGuestlighteningthelamp Dr. ChandanChatterjee, ChiefGuestdeliveringhis inaugural address Sept -Oct2013 NEWS on aspecialrequest. A.T.E haspresentedabeautifulsongofKishoreKumar show hasenjoyed.DuringthisMr. Vikas Sharan, dance programmewasorganized. Audience ofthis At theeveningoffirstday, aFashionShowand invited industrytovisittheexpo. dustrial Association helpedexhibitorstoparticipateand Ahmedabad. Mr. HasmukhShah,Chairman,Vapi In- The exhibitionwasmanagedbyGreen Apple Hub, working. Unit forprovidinggoodopportunitybusinessnet- try. The visitorsandexhibitors appreciatedMumbai preneurs andownersfromvariouspartsofthecoun- The 3dayexhibitionwasvisitedbytechnocrats,entre- Thanks. Mr. A. V. Mantri,Hon.SecretaryproposedtheVote of the country. tries willchangethescenariofordevelopmentof suggested thathealthycompetitionsamongsttheindus- Gujarat insettinguptheirbusinessthestate.He exhibitors forallkindofassistancefromtheGovt. Association. Heassuredalltheparticipantsand days sincewhenhewasassociatedwiththe Textile Dr. ChandanChatterjee,wasrememberinghiscollege cessories tomachineries. ment ofthetextileindustryatvariouslevelsfromac- the importantroleplayedbyIT ITAMMA tobepart Mr. DivenDemblathanked MumbaiUnitforgiving Sept -Oct2013 NEWS Dr. ChandanCahtterjeeinauguratingtheExhibition of thisexhibition.Heexplained AMMA inthedevelop- 187 Texttreasure Value charging whatyouknow&start forit." ers. Stop givingawayyourtimeandtalents. "If youdon'tvalueyourtime,neitherwilloth- Dr. ChandanChatterjeeat A.T.E. Stall View ofExhibitionStalls View ofiNDEXTbStall - KimGarst

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association manufacturers/dealers/agents, etc.ofMachines&Spare 37.77%% fromSupplyIndustry inthebusinessof of fibre,yarn,fabric& their finishing,etc.;while Industry inthebusinessof manufacturinganddealing The categoriesofExhibitorswere62.23%%fromUser Iran followedby15.05%ofExhibitorsfromIndia. indicating themajorityof58.05%Exhibitorsfrom from 16countries. The detailsaregivenin Table-1 38, 38 A &38B.Thereweretotal231exhibitors 31 October, 2013.ItwasgroupedintothreeHalls,viz. national PermanentFairground, Tehran, Iranduring28- 'IRANTEX 2013'exhibitionwasheldat Tehran Inter- 2013 nent Fairground, Tehran, Iran--28-31October, 'IRANTEX 2013',Tehran InternationalPerma- ported. of carpetseachyear, 80percentofwhichareex- weaving andproducearoundfivemillionsquaremeters Over 1.2millionweaversinIranengagecarpet market areIndia, Afghanistan, PakistanandChina. billion. Iran'scompetitorsinglobalhandwoencarpet bal tradeinhandwovencarpetsreachedUS$1.35 including Japan,ItalyandGermany;whereastheglo- million worthofhand-wovencarpetsto50countries, Last calendaryear, IranexportedaroundUS$560 ies around US$37.2millionworthoftextilemachiner- during theperiod.Inaddition,sector tons ofgarmentsworthUS$937,000wereimported tons ofcottonfibresworthUS$38millionand106.7 around 77%ofoverallimports. Also, around15,581 as rawinputtoproducefinalproducts,constituted types ofthreadsandfibres,usedbythetextileindustry period oflastyeartoUS$379.7million.Wherevarious for theperiodplummetedby6.65%oversame On theimportside,country'stextilegoodsimports threads toppedtheexportlistduringperiod. fibre, fabric,garments,machine-madeflooringsand calendar yearthatstartedonMarch21,2013.Where, during thefirstfourmonthsofcurrentIranian Textile exportsfromIran reachedUS$221.1million Textile Industry atIRAN duringtheperiod. successful participation at IRANTEX'2013 ITAMMA's imported 188 TABLE-1 ment Industry. Parts ofSpinning, Weaving, Wet ProcessingandGar- Table -2 ITAMMA atITAMMA stall) :- (ReferphotoofMrDivenDembla,President, participated asperthedetailsgivenin Table -2below Under thisschemeEighteen(18)ITAMMA members 1. Cataloguedisplayscheme:- ITAMMA's Participation pi 4 1 Switzerland 2 1 Spain 1 Singapore Korea 35 Japan Italy 1 Iran 4 India 1 Greece 14 Germany Finland China Country oa 231 21 1 Total 5 Turkey Thailand Taiwan aktn v.Ld,Ahmedabad - 380009 Surat. Ltd., Pvt. Marketing J.C. Tex-Mach Ltd., Pvt. Mumbai-400001 Gandhinagar - 382 028 Industries Pvt.Ltd., ExcelIndustrialGears Continental Mfg. Co., 210 394 Engineering - Surat BlueMoonEngineering & Coimbatore -64100 Systems (P)Ltd., Control Based Aero 5 135 % No. ofexhibitors Jayantilal S.Gandhi&Co., Sept -Oct2013 2.15 % 0.43% 1.72% 0.43% 0.87 0.43% 2.15 58.05% 15.05% 0.43% 1.72% 0.43% 6.06% 0.43 % 100 % 9.03 % NEWS Sept -Oct2013 NEWS Mumbai - 400 001 Ahmedabad - 380 023 380 - Ahmedabad Mumbai -400001 Works, Texspares Machine Bhavnagar -364003 Techno-Rub Industries, Ahmedabad -382350 Technocraft Industries, Coimbatore-641004 Suprabhatam Textile Coimbatore - Equipments, 641 062 Works IndiaPvt.Ltd., Ltd., Pvt. Systems SKAAT Machines Industrial Service, Ghaziabad Hapur -245101, Kota-324007,Rajasthan Sheltronics Control Savio Texcone Pvt.Ltd., SanjayPlastics& 083 400 - Mumbai Pvt. Ltd., Leomine Organics Ahmedabad-380004 Ahmedabad -380006 Textile Laxmi Stores, Ltd., Pvt. Traders Kinarivala Machinery Mr. DivenDembla,Mr. N.D.Mhatre along marketing activities Meet yourpotential with IT clients, boosting AMMA Exh Corporation, Usha Industrial Coimbatore -641025 ibitors your sales and 189 the Textile tradebetweenthetwocountries. meeting encouragedus,andwillhelpinthegrowthof enhance theirexportstoIran.Theproceedingsofthe trade andcommerce,whichwillhelpourmembers fications regardingseveralissuesrelatedtobanking, Indian exporterstotheIranmarket.We alsogotclari- giving usinsightsintotheopportunitiesavailablefor garding theeconomicandpoliticalscenarioinIran, Shri BharatBabu,Counsellorsharedhisviewsre- Iran. promoting theirtextilemachinesandcomponentsto the challengesfacedbyIndianexporterswhile During thismeetingvaluablediscussionswerehadon bers wasleadbythePresident,Mr. DivenDembla. hibitors, whiletheteamof This meetingwasattendedbythevariousIndianEx- Tea &get-together. 28th October, 2013athisembassyinTehran for aHi- Srivastava invitedtheIndianExhibitors& Visitors on Honourable Ambassador ofIndiainIranShriD.P. ber, 2013athisembassyin Tehran. India inIranShriD.P. Srivastava,on28thOcto- 3. MeetingwiththeHonourable Ambassador of tors. bers, werepresentrecording28.57%ofIndianExhibi- Table -1).Outofthesame Ten (10)ITAMMA mem- the total231;participatedinthisexhibition(pleaserefer Total Thirty Five(35)IndianExhibitorsi.e.15.05%of 2. Indian&ITAMMA's member Exhibitors:- ITAMMA exhibitormem-

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association 2013 -2015are: ists andLeaders. Vice-Chairmen electedfortheterm Lathia hasalsoothereminent andvisionaryIndustrial- India ITMESociety'sgoverning bodyChairedbyMr. nity andyouth. various otherOrganisationsforbettermentofcommu- also activewithRotaryClubOfBombay West and ASME, ISA.DespitehisbusyscheduleMr. Lathiais is alsoassociatedwithprofessionalorganisationslike ries &MachineryMfrs. Association (ITAMMA). He President ofBIA,IndianTextile Accesso- ciations inmultipleroles.To mentionfewhewasthe anthropic Organisations.Hehasservedmany Asso- He isanactiveMemberofmanyIndustrialandphil- sibility andcommitmenttogivebacktheSociety. men, Mr. Lathiaalsohasdeepsenseofsocialrespon- Rubber Mfg.Co.Ltd. Apart fromsharpbusinessacu- ing thetechnicaloperationsatfamilyownedLathia IIT DelhiandM.S.fromStanfordUSA.Heishead- term 2013-2015.Mr. LathiacompletedhisB.Tech. from elected astheChairmanofIndiaITMESocietyfor Mr. SanjivLathia,DirectorLathiaGrouphasbeen Bearers andCommitteeMembers. next eventin2016withanewlyelected Team ofOffice of IndiaITME2012,theSocietyisgearingupforits countries participating. After thesuccessfulconclusion event inIndiaandwellacceptedinternationallywith61 Exhibitions whichtodayisundisputedlythepremier The Societyorganizes InternationalTextile Technology in Mumbai. Exhibitions heldits34th AGM on27thSeptember2013 tile EngineeringIndustryand Textile Industrythrough India ITMESociety, theOrganisation servingthe Tex- Mr. SanjivLathiaelectedasChairmanofIndiaITMESociety Mr. SanjivLathia 190 future andendeavors. man, ITMESocietyandwishes himallthebestforhis congratulates Mr. SanjivLathiaforelectingas Chair- In thisjoyousmoment, The Textile Association (India) Himson MachinesPvt.Ltd.) past Chairman,Mr. R.S.Bachkaniwala(Director, Palod appreciation thevaluablecontributionsofimmediate also takesthisopportunitytoacknowledgewithdeep stewardship ofnewChairman,IndiaITMESociety While lookingforwardtoavibrantgrowthunderthe been electedas Card ClothingMfg.Co.Pvt.Ltd.,Coimbatorehas Mr. S.HariShankar, Whole-timeDirector, Lakshmi (India), Mumbai,(Ex-ChairmanNTC) Mr. D.R.Mehta,PresidentThe Textile Association Industries Ltd. Dyeing &ManufacturingCo.Ltd.andM/s.Mafatlal rience andassociatedwithCompanieslikeM/s.Bombay Textile Industry(CITI),Mumbai.Has 48yearsexpe- Mr. PremMalik,ChairmanConfederationofIndian Ltd., Mumbai. Managing Director, PrecisionRubberIndustriesPvt. sories &MachineryMfrs. Association (ITAMMA), Mr. DivenG. Dembla,President,Indian Textile Acces- man, InspironEngineeringPvt.Ltd., Ahmedabad. ery Manufacturers' Association (I)(TMMA),Chair- Mr. PrakashK.Bhagwati,Chairman,Textile Machin- dian Standards,NewDelhi. Mr. SunilSoni, IAS,DirectorGeneral,BureauofIn- elected (center)flankedbyimmediatepastchairmanMr. Group pictureofincoming&outgoingmembersthe steering committeeofIndiaITMESocietycapturedon R. S.Bachkaniwala(Left)&Mr. G. T. Dembla,Past 27th September, 2013.Mr. SanjivLathiachairman Chairman (2001-2005)(Right). Hon.Treasurer Sept -Oct2013 NEWS Awards- Sept -Oct2013 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Bodies- Mr. MehrawasExmember onGovernment tor for45yearinProduction/ManagementProjects. wide workingexperiencein Textile Millorganized sec- He isan Alumni of TITS, Bhiwani,1955batch.Hehas Okhla Garment&Textile Cluster(OGTC) since2004. Mr. M.K.MehraispresentlyworkingasDirectorof hai forhisoutstandingcontributiontoFAPTA and ATC. during ATC-12, heldon23-26thOctober, 2013atShang- ciation (India)washonoredwithaMementobyFAPTA Mr. M.K.Mehra,PastPresidentofThe Textile Asso- NEWS hn Tia)- 1997 China (Taiwan) ofrneMma -2011 -2012 Delhi at Conference Life Time achievementaward All IndiaTextile Mumbai conference Life Time MeritoriousServiceawardatworld Golden JubileePresident Award TAI ServiceGoldMedal ning commission Textile Task forcefor10thfiveyear planofplan- ning commission. Textile Task forcefor9thfiveyear planofplan- Council of Tech. Education(MinistryofPersonal) try ofTextile) Development Councilfor Textile Industry(Minis- Fellow ofChineseInstitute Textile Engineers Mr. M.KMehra Mr. M.K.MEHRA FeliciatedByFAPTA - 1989 - 1980 191 ATC. standing contributionforthedevelopmentofFAPTA & Association (India).Mr. M.K.Mehrahasmadeout- and attended ATC 7timesonbehalfof The Textile who wasalsoamemberofInternational Advisory Board Mr. M.K.Mehra,wasafounderPresidentofFAPTA Attended Asian Textile Conference-SouthKo- - MemberofIndianDelegationtoOlympicin - SRDgrouporganized52SeminarsalloverIndia MemberofIndoFrench Tech Association - - Other activities ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ Contribution tothe Textile Association (India) this achievement. The Textile Association (India)congratulateshimfor T o erDate Year ATC No. h2005 2003 2001 th 8 1997 th 7 1995 th 6 th 4 1993 1991 rd 3 nd 2 st 1 rea, Hongkong, Taiwan, India,Iran Moscow -1980 & conducted Training programmes Patron memberof Textile Association Since FAPTA -FAPTA -FederationChairman National President TAI National President TAI Vice president TAI May 09-11, 2005 Dec. 01-03,2003 Kong Hong Aug. 22-24,2001 Jun. 24-26,1997 Kong Hong Sep. 19-21,1995 Oct. 18-20,1993 Jan. 17-19,1991 Iran India Taiwan Korea India - 1987-1989 - 1991-1993 - 1991-1993 - 1989-1991 Held At - 1965

Journal of the TEXTILE Association Journal of the TEXTILE Association 30 countries. conference wasattendedbyabout800delegatesfrom made fiberspresentedby100eminentspeakers.The to thelatesttrendsandtechnologies,infieldofman stitute. TheMFCcoveredvarioussubjects,appropriate 2013, convenedbythe Austrian ManMadeFiberIn- the InternationalPressConferenceon12thSeptember, in Dornbirn, Austria on11th-13th September, 2013and DORNBIRN MANMADEFIBERSCONGRESSheld participate asaMember-Pressinthe52nd Mr. K.L. Vidur, G.C. Memberof TAI wasinvitedto Texttreasure Mr. K.L. VIDUR atDORNBIRN man nexttohimfirst." mind, youhavetochangethemindof "Sometimes, ifyouwanttochangeaman's Man MadeFibersCongress - Megan Whalen Turner 192 cific proposaltotheMinistry of Textile toenableit hinted thattheChambershould comeoutwithaspe- tion schemeintextilesector toarateof3%,Dr. Rao the seminarinregardtoexpansion ofinterestsubven- members ofthePHDCCIduringdeliberationson Responding toaclarification,soughtbyoneofthe attending nationalseminar. suggested Dr. Raotovariousindustrialists ofPHDCCI ernment toimprovetheavailabilityofskilledlabour The industryshouldtaketheinitiativealongwithgov- pointed outDr. Rao. the sectorhasyettoemergeforaneconomyofscale, Textile Ministryunderaegisofsuccessive government Despite severalgovernmentschemeslaunchedbyUnion industry whichneedstobereversed. tor. This has resultedinapassivegrowthofthetextile and industryhadledtonotinvestinR&Dtextilesec- ter stressedthatduetonegligenceofbothgovernment ber ofCommerceandIndustry(PHDCCI),theMinis- tile Industryheretoday, undertheaegisofPHDCham- Technological Advancements: GrowthMantraforTex- Inaugurating aNationalSeminaronInnovations& clined. textile industry'sshareinglobalworldtradehasde- saying thatitisoneoftheprimaryreasonIndian counterparts, says The Minister, however, indicated loosing outitscompetitivenesstocompetitorsand current stateofaffairsinwhichdomesticindustryis development intextilesectorIndiahasledtoits both governmentandindustrytoinvestinresearch Textile, GovernmentofIndiasaidthatReluctance ter Dr. KavuruSambasivaRao,UnionMinisterof deceleration ofgrowthtextilesector: Textile Minis- Government andIndustrycollectivelyresponsiblefor Friday, 2nd August, 2013 Advancement -GrowthMantrafor "Innovation & Technology National Seminaron Textile Industry" Sept -Oct2013 NEWS reach atUS$220billionby 2020. change earningsasthetextile industryisexpectedto indirect employmentgeneration andnetforeignex- tion tothenationaleconomyintermsofdirectand point thattextileindustrymadeasignificantcontribu- rector, Winsome Textile soughttoimpress uponthe Another speakerMr. Ashish Bagrodia,ManagingDi- materials andtheirapplications. engaged inresearchanddevelopmentregardingraw textile industryasalmostallthemajorplayersare innovation shouldbecometheonlymeansofsurvival in man, Task ForceonTextiles, PHDCCIstressedthat In hiskeynoteaddressMr. MukundChoudhary, Chair- hanced toaugmentthegrowth" simplified andtheclearanceprocessshouldbeen- industry. We feelthattheregulatorypoliciesshouldbe Competition etcwhichhinderthegrowthoftextile age, ObsoleteMachinery, LackofInformation,Foreign challenges intheformofSkilledLabour, PowerShort- economic lifeofthecountry. Howevertherearemany Textile industryhasanoverwhelmingpresenceinthe President, PHDCCI,Jaipuriahighlighted"theIndian In hiswelcomeremarks,Mr. SharadJaipuria,Sr. Vice for itincasesuchproposalshavemerits. to conveniencethegovernmentdoleoutpackages try tolistouttheslippagesofIndiainc.intextilesector The Ministerwasextremelyliberalinaskingtheindus- India foritsreleasetheseminar Union Minister, Ministryof Textiles, Governmentof PHD ChamberwasreleasedbyDr. K.S.Rao,Hon'ble by Departmentof Textile Technology, IIT Delhiand ment -GrowthMantrafor Textile Industry"prepared edge Papertitled"Innovation& Technology Advance- Technopak Advisors andPHDChamberKnowl- an Evolving Textile & Apparel Industry"preparedby A Knowledgepapertitled"OpportunitiesforIndiain Commerce andIndustry. endorse toauthoritiesconcernedinthedepartmentof Sept -Oct2013 NEWS 193 parel Industry. tional Competitivenessof the IndiaTextiles and Ap- ness oftheindustryand benchmarking theInterna- vations inordertoincreasetheoverallcompetitive on theemergingandcutting-edgeadvancements,inno- tive intheyearstocome.Theseminarwasfocussed thrust areasforthetextileindustrytoremaincompeti- technology advancementandvalueadditionarethe national markets,productdiversification,innovation, stiff competitionbothinthedomesticaswellinter- textile industryispassingthroughacriticalphase,with on variousaspectsoftheindustry. Inanerawhenthe academia, governmentofficials,consultants,whospoke The eventhadenlistedparticipationofindustry, Ltd. Verghese, GeneralManager-ClariantChemicalIndia the DemandsofNon Apparel Fabrics" byMr. Raj Corporate Sustainability, SGSIndiaPvt.Ltd.,"Meeting Quality Control"byMs.MonikaSharma,Head- India Pvt.Ltd.,"NewTrends in Textile Testing & Ghosh, GeneralManagerSouth Asia, OerlikonTextile matic EnergyEfficienteAFKmachines"byMr. D. ization ofIndian Texturing Industrywithlatest Auto- Prof., DepartmentofTextile, IIT Delhiand"Modern- & NanotechnologyinTextiles" byMs.ManglaJoshi, Chandra, Head-South Asia, Invistaltd;"Nanofibres ing Sector:KeyGrowthFactors"byMr. Avinash Exim InternationalLtd.,"InnovationsinTextile &Cloth- by Mr. VIshwa Nath,ManagingDirector, Nath Bros ,"Challenges forGarmentExport&HandloomSector" Director- Strategy&GrowthInitiatives,DupontIndia Dyeing andFinishingof Textiles" byMrH.P Nanda, tions wereScienceBasedSustainableSolutionsfor Growth Mantrafor Textile Industry".Otherpresenta- technical sessionwithadiscussionon"Innovationas in MinistryofTextiles. Mr. N.DGeorge kickedoffthe was chairedbyMr. N.D.George,Economic Advisor, made attheTechnical Sessionoftheseminarwhich A numberofpresentationsonimportanttopicswere

Journal of the TEXTILE Association

Journal of the TEXTILE Association E-mail : M. : Contact : Venue : Date : InFashion -4thEditionDesign+ Trends + E-mail : M. : Contact : Venue : Date : Theme : India TextileConference Chapter hosting11th International&69th All The Textile Association (India)-SouthGujarat E-mail : Tel. : Contact : Venue : Date : ery, Accessories &Spares Texfair 2013-LargestExpoof Textile Machin- INDIA microfilm withoutthewrittenpermissionof theeditor-publisher. in anyformorbymeans,normayitbe printed,photocopiedorstoredon All rightsreserved.Neitherthispublicationnor anypartofitmaybereproduced sarily theviewsofeditor-publisher. The viewsexpressedinthisjournalarethose oftheauthors.Theyarenotneces- schedule, venueetc.,beforefinalizingyourtravel plans. however, advisedtore-checkthedateswithorganizers, foranychangein Every effort ismadetoensurethattheinformationgivencorrect. You are [email protected] +91-9999251621 Mr.Verma Adarsh Goregaon (E),Mumbai,India Hall No.5&6,BombayExhibitionCentre, 17th &18thJanuary, 2014 Sourcing [email protected]; +91-9099025253 Gujarat, India Opp. MuseumChowk,Surat-395003, Bhavan, Kanjibhai DesaiHall,SamajShikshan Gujarat Chapter The Textile Association (India) - South Mr. Viren Jariwala,Hon.Secretary India The Gateway(TAJ) Hotel,Surat,Gujarat, 20th &21stDecember, 2013 ceptions" "Indian Textiles: GlobalprospectsandPer- [email protected] +91-0422 4225333,Fax:+91-422422536 41, RaceCourse,Coimabtore-641018 The SouthernIndiaMills' Association Coimbatore CODISSIA Trade FairComplex, 13th to16thDecember, 2013 196 E-mail : M. : Tel. : Mr. Arvind Sinha-ConferenceChairman : Contact Venue : Date : Theme : 2014 Bureau (TCEB)WORLDTEXTILECONGRESS sociation withThailandConvention&Exhibition The Textile Association (India)organizesin As- E-mail : Tel. : Contact : Venue : Date : Accessories Exhibition ITMACH -International Textile Machinery& [email protected], [email protected] +91-9820062612 +91-022-24461145, Fax:+91-022-24474971 400 028India 67, RanadeRoad,Dadar(W),Mumbai- India, Pathare House,NexttoStateBankof Office The Textile Association (India)-Central Bangkok, Thailand 23rd to25thMay, 2014 World" lenges inan "Global Textile -Opportunities&Chal- [email protected], [email protected] +91-022-22017013/61 Mr. FaridK.S.-M.:+91-9869185102 Mr. Arvind Semlani-M.:+91-9833977743 Bhiwandi, Mumbai-Nasik Highway(NH-3), Anjurdive, Indian CorporationPremises, 20th to24thJanuary, 2014 FORTHCOMING EVENTS Sept -Oct2013 Integrated