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Fashion,Costume,And Culture

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Fashion,Costume,And Culture FCC_TP_V1_919 3/5/04 3:50 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V1_919 3/5/04 3:50 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 1: The Ancient1 World SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. The Gale Group, Inc. Permissions Hotline: 27500 Drake Rd. While every effort has been made to 248-699-8006 or 800-877-4253, ext. 8006 Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 ensure the reliability of the informa- Fax: 248-699-8074 or 800-762-4058 Or you can visit our Internet site at tion presented in this publication, The http://www.gale.com Cover photographs reproduced by per- Gale Group, Inc. does not guarantee mission of: Volume 1, from top to bot- the accuracy of data contained herein. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. tom, © Christel Gerstenberg/CORBIS, The Gale Group, Inc. accepts no pay- No part of this work covered by the AP/Wide World Photos, © Araldo de ment for listing; and inclusion in the copyright hereon may be reproduced or Luca/CORBIS; large photo, the Library publication of any organization, agency, used in any form or by any means— of Congress. Volume 2, from top to institution, publication, service, or indi- graphic, electronic, or mechanical, in- bottom, Public Domain, © Gianni Dagli vidual does not imply endorsement by cluding photocopying, recording, Orti/CORBIS, National Archives and the editors or publisher. Errors brought taping, Web distribution, or informa- Records Administration; large photo, to the attention of the publisher and tion storage retrieval systems—without the Smithsonian Institute. Volume 3, verified to the satisfaction of the pub- the written permission of the publisher. from top to bottom, © Historical lisher will be corrected in future editions. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA Pendergast, Sara. Fashion, costume, and culture: clothing, headwear, body decorations, and footwear through the ages / Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast; Sarah Hermsen, editor. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-7876-5417-5 (set hardcover)—ISBN 0-7876-5418-3 (v.1 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5419-1 (v.2 : alk. paper)—ISBN 0-7876-5420-5 (v.3 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5421-3 (v.4 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5422-1 (v.5 : alk. paper) 1. Costume—History. 2. Fashion—History. 3. Body marking—History. 4. Dress accessories—History. I. Title: Clothing, headwear, body decorations, and footwear through the ages. II. Pendergast, Tom. III. Hermsen, Sarah. IV. Title. GT511.P46 2004 391’.009—dc22 2003015852 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Contents ■ ■ ■ Entries by Alphabetical Order . .xxvii Entries by Topic Category . .xli Reader’s Guide . .liii Contributors . .lvii Timeline . .lix Words to Know . .lxvii ■ ■ ■ Volume 1: The Ancient World PREHISTORY Prehistoric Life . .1 Clothing Overview . .5 Headwear Overview . .9 Body Decorations Overview . .11 Footwear Overview . .13 ANCIENT EGYPT Ancient Egypt . .15 ■ v ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Unraveling the Mystery of Hieroglyphs (box) . .18 Clothing Overview . .21 Kalasiris . .24 Loincloth and Loin Skirt . .25 Penis Sheath . .27 Schenti . .28 Tunic . .29 Headwear Overview . .31 Headdresses . .32 Pschent . .34 Wigs . .35 Body Decorations Overview . .37 Collars and Pectorals . .38 Fragrant Oils and Ointments . .39 Jewelry . .40 Kohl . .42 Footwear Overview . .45 Sandals . .46 MESOPOTAMIA Mesopotamia . .49 Clothing Overview . .53 Fringe . .55 Shawl . .56 Headwear Overview . .59 Turbans . .60 Veils . .61 Body Decorations Overview . .63 Footwear Overview . .65 Sandals . .66 vi ■ FASHION, COSTUME, AND CULTURE CONTENTS ■ ■ ■ INDIA India . .69 Clothing Overview . .75 Burka . .76 Chadar . .78 Choli . .79 Dhoti and Lungi . .80 Jama . .82 Punjabi Suit . .83 Purdah . .84 Modern Islamic Dress (box) . .85 Sari . .87 Uttariya . .89 Headwear Overview . .91 Turbans . .92 Body Decorations Overview . .95 Foot Decorating . .96 Forehead Markings . .97 Henna Stains . .99 Jewelry . .100 Piercing . .104 Footwear Overview . .107 Chappals . .108 Jutti . .109 Khapusa . .109 Paduka . .110 ANCIENT GREECE Life in Ancient Greece . .113 Clothing Overview . .119 Chlaina and Diplax . .122 Chlamys . .123 Doric Chiton . .124 Himation . .126 Ionic Chiton . .127 ■ CONTENTS vii ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Loin Coverings . .129 Military Dress . .131 Minoan Dress . .132 Peplos . .134 Headwear Overview . .137 Phrygian Cap . .139 Pilos and Petasos . .141 Sakkos and Sphendone . .142 Wreaths . .143 Body Decorations Overview . .145 Cameo and Intaglio . .146 Fibulae . .147 Jewelry . .148 Makeup . ..
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