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Fashioning Gender Fashioning Gender
FASHIONING GENDER FASHIONING GENDER: A CASE STUDY OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY BY ALLYSON STOKES, B.A.(H), M.A. A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE DEPARTMENT OF SOCIOLOGY AND THE SCHOOL OF GRADUATE STUDIES OF MCMASTER UNIVERSITY IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY c Copyright by Allyson Stokes, August 2013 All Rights Reserved Doctor of Philosophy (2013) McMaster University (Sociology) Hamilton, Ontario, Canada TITLE: Fashioning Gender: A Case Study of the Fashion Industry AUTHOR: Allyson Stokes BA.H., MA SUPERVISOR: Dr. Tina Fetner NUMBER OF PAGES: xii, 169 ii For Johnny. iii Abstract This dissertation uses the case of the fashion industry to explore gender inequality in cre- ative cultural work. Data come from 63 in-depth interviews, media texts, labor market statistics, and observation at Toronto’s fashion week. The three articles comprising this sandwich thesis address: (1) processes through which femininity and feminized labor are devalued; (2) the gendered distribution of symbolic capital among fashion designers; and (3) the gendered organization of the fashion industry and the “ideal creative worker.” In chapter two, I apply devaluation theory to the fashion industry in Canada. This chap- ter makes two contributions to literature on the devaluation of femininity and “women’s work.” First, while devaluation is typically used to explain the gender wage gap, I also address symbolic aspects of devaluation related to respect, prestige, and interpretations of worth. Second, this paper shows that processes of devaluation vary and are heavily shaped by the context in which work is performed. I address five processes of devaluation in fash- ion: (1) trivialization, (2) the privileging of men and masculinity, (3) the production of a smokescreen of glamour, (4) the use of free labor and “free stuff,” and (5) the construction of symbolic boundaries between “work horses” and “show ponies.” In chapter three, I use media analysis to investigate male advantage in the predomi- nantly female field of fashion design. -
Fashion Awards Preview
WWD A SUPPLEMENT TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY 2011 CFDA FASHION AWARDS PREVIEW 053111.CFDA.001.Cover.a;4.indd 1 5/23/11 12:47 PM marc jacobs stores worldwide helena bonham carter www.marcjacobs.com photographed by juergen teller marc jacobs stores worldwide helena bonham carter www.marcjacobs.com photographed by juergen teller NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON LAS VEGAS MIAMI DALLAS SAO PAULO LONDON PARIS SAINT TROPEZ BRUSSELS ANTWERPEN KNOKKE MADRID ATHENS ISTANBUL MOSCOW DUBAI HONG KONG BEIJING SHANGHAI MACAU JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE SEOUL TOKYO SYDNEY DVF.COM NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON LAS VEGAS MIAMI DALLAS SAO PAULO LONDON PARIS SAINT TROPEZ BRUSSELS ANTWERPEN KNOKKE MADRID ATHENS ISTANBUL MOSCOW DUBAI HONG KONG BEIJING SHANGHAI MACAU JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE SEOUL TOKYO SYDNEY DVF.COM IN CELEBRATION OF THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SWAROVSKI’S SUPPORT OF THE CFDA FASHION AWARDS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES NEW YORK # LOS ANGELES COSTA MESA # CHICAGO # MIAMI # 1 800 426 3088 # WWW.ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM BRAIDED BRACELET PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG IN CELEBRATION OF THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SWAROVSKI’S SUPPORT OF THE CFDA FASHION AWARDS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES NEW YORK # LOS ANGELES COSTA MESA # CHICAGO # MIAMI # 1 800 426 3088 # WWW.ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM BRAIDED BRACELET PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG WWD Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Edward Nardoza ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, Melissa Mattiace ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, Pamela Firestone EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Pete Born PUBLISHER, BEAUTY INC, Alison Adler Matz EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bridget Foley SALES DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, Jennifer Marder EDITOR James Fallon ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, INNERWEAR/LEGWEAR/TEXTILE, Joel Fertel MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Matt Rice MANAGING EDITOR, FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Dianne M. -
FESTIVAL to the Volcanoes of Auvergne – Unforgettable
InsPIrIng you to reach your dreams #19 /JuLy-AUGUST 2010 Glorious Cannes, Glamorous summer MICK JAGGER A Stone in exile? PAlme d’oR wInner Exclusive interview AlEx Cox British film expert BElGIAn EU PRESIdEnCY Back in business? EDITORIAL Cannes-tastic! Cannes is one of those places cocktails, courtesy of chivas and the utter where you feel anything could exhilaration of being handed the controls of J happen. Away from the glitz craft’s latest speedboat the Torpedo as it and glamour of La Croisette topped 40 knots in Cannes harbour, we did our best to enjoy ourselves. and its famous red carpet, a whole industry throbs in the Of course, it’s not all parties. Closer to home, Andy background. Carling returns with a sideways look at how Belgium may handle its six months as head of n such a city of movers and shakers, a the EU’s rotating presidency. There’s still time to place which seems practically never to get yourself in trim for the beach, too – let Together sleep and a town in which new stars are and Power Plate Institute Brussels introduce you born, Together is right at home. To save to the latest exercise craze, with our fantastic you the trouble of trekking the thousand- readers giveaway. oddI kilometres to Cannes, we selflessly ventured there to bring you the very best in fashion shows, Plus, as we know you’ve come to expect and private parties and everything you might expect enjoy by now, there’s a beautiful fashion from the hardest working (and hardest partying) photoshoot, Kimberley Lovato’s sensual magazine in Brussels. -
Imageprofil Peyman Amin Old.Pdf
Peyman Amin - www.peymanamin.com STECKBRIEF AKTUELLES Augenfarbe blau/grau/grün Nach elf Jahren Paris wünschte sich Peyman Verän- Körpergröße 1,75 m derungen. Ende 2008 kündigte er bei „IMG Models“ Schuhgröße 42,5 und kehrte nach Deutschland zurück. Derzeit lau- fen Planungen für spannende, neue Projekte. Dem PASSIONEN Quotenerfolg „Germany´s next Topmodel – by Hei- di Klum“ bleibt der Fashion-Experte treu: 2010 ist Fashion bis zu 40 Fashion-Shows/Jahr er mit der fünften Staffel auf ProSieben zu sehen. Laufen ca. 90 km/Woche Fußball FC Bayern Fan, früher Libero SPRACHEN Musik Afrikanisches Jambei Persisch, Deutsch, Englisch, Französisch LAUDATIONES (jeweils fließend) „GQ Style Night“, Kat. „Accessoires of the Year”, 2007 EIGENSCHAFTEN „PETRA Fashion Award“, Kat. „Casual Fashion“, 2007 „GQ – Men of the year“, Kat. „Model“, 2008 Anspruchsvoll, ehrlich, direkt, stilsicher, konse- quent, diszipliniert, begeisterungsfähig und loyal IN KÜRZE 1971 Geboren im Iran (Teheran), am 30. März 1979 Umzug mit seiner Familie nach Deutschland (Frankfurt) 1991 Abitur (Note-Schnitt: 1,9) 1993 Vordiplom BWL 1994 Modelagent bei der Agentur „Frankfurt One“ 1997-2008 Wechsel zu „IMG Models“, Paris (betreute u.a. Heidi Klum, Gisele Bündchen, Milla Jovovich, Naomi Campbell, Laetitia Casta, und verantwortete Werbeverträge für L’Oréal, Vichy, Armani, Givenchy u.v.m.) 2002: Aufstieg zum „Director of Commercial and Advertising“ 2008: Ausstieg bei „IMG Models“ Seit 2006 Juror für „Germany´s next Topmodel – by Heidi Klum“, 1.-4. Staffel 2009 Umzug nach Deutschland (München) 2010 „Germany´s next Topmodel – by Heidi Klum“ 5. Staffel TV-ERFOLG „Germany´s next Topmodel – by Heidi Klum“ (Staffeln 1-4) ÜBERBLICK 2006 2007 2008 2009 MA in % / RW in Mio (Z. -
Seal Response
‚— ‚A‘ S’ l y 1 Scott N. Weston, SBN 130357 ' Joel D. Schwartz, SBN 162353 2 FOX ROTHSCHILD LLP 3 10250 Constellation Blvd.‚ #900 mcoun of Califomh ‘ Los Angeles, CA 90067 v °f L?‘ A"9°'°° _ 4 Te1:310.598.4150 —1‘7ax: 310.556.9828 AUG 1 9 2020. swestonfoxrothsch1ld.com _ . 5 "dschwartzfoxrothschildsom om°°”c'°"‘ . 6 Attorneys for Respendent, Henry Samuel ‚y ' ausmvo Mamas “w” . ' 7 l ' v 9 8 4 ' .- SUPERIOR COURT OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA 9 i _" 1 FOR THE COUNTY OF LOS ANGELES ' l0 In" Re Marriage of: Case No. BD 562 354 (Assigned t0 Dept. 83) 11 ' l2 HEIDI SAMUEL Resondent Hen Samuel’s Oosition to 1 " Petitioner Heidi Samuel’s Ex Parte . 13 Petitioner Alication/Reuest for Order for Order a ' Shortenin Time for Court t0 Hear " 4. ‚ 14 ' 3nd ‘ Petitioner’s Reuests t0 Travel to German ' 1 With Minor Children 10/19/20 — 12/19/20 & 15 HENRY SAMUEL from 1/9/21-2/23/21 and for Other Relief. V i 16 Respondent Attached, — 17 Declaration of Respondent, Henry Samuel 2 . Memorandum of Points & Authorities . 18 _ ' l Ex Parte: 1 l9 9 Hearing: August 19 2020 20 i Time: 8:30 a.m. ' 1 Dept: 83 21 i“ . Judge: The Honorable Joseph Lipner ’ /// ' _ 24 V ' 25 ‘ ’ / / / 1‘ 26 .. 1 I / // — ' 27 28 ' 1 v . 1 Marriage of Heidi & Henry Samuel Respondenfs Opposition to Petitiones Ex Parte Application Case No. m) 552 354 113387227“ Ex Parte Declaration of Respondent, Henry Samuel I 1 DECLARATION OF HENRY SAMUEL 2 i I, HENRY SAMUEL aka Seal, declare as follows: 3 1. -
Into the Woods NEW YORK — Fur Is Everywhere for Fall
APPAREL PRICES UP/2 INNERWEAR’S SHAKEUP/22 THETHE WWD BUSINESS REVIEW THE RETAILERS’ DAILY NEWSPAPER MAY 17, 2004 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 17, 2004 • $2.00 STAYING AFLOAT Bailing or Smooth Sailing? Fashion Retail on an Uncertain Voyage. From the impact of a jobless recovery to curbed consumer spending in a post-refinancing boom era, retail faces daunting seas. {But the tide could change as the industry is buoyed by a consumer demographic that can’t seem to get enough of luxury goods. } Nouveau Riche II: ‘Masstige’ Cash Machine: Refinancing Over? Factors on China: Trade 2005 ▲ The WWD Business Review. WWDMONDAY Pages 9-20. Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Into the Woods NEW YORK — Fur is everywhere for fall. From hats and bags to an old favorite, the muff, accessories are turning up in mink, rabbit and raccoon. Here, Patricia Underwood’s mink hat, Cathy Hardwick’s fox-trimmed mink vest and Tocca sweater. For more, see pages 6 and 7. A Hip-Hop Flip-Flop: Eve Switches Licensees, Signs With Marc Ecko By Julee Greenberg ED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT ED BY NEW YORK — Eve’s Fetish has a new partner — and it’s none other than hip- hop entrepreneur Marc Ecko. The rapper-turned-designer has signed a licensing deal with the $350 million Marc Ecko Enterprises after OS, BOTH AT WARREN TRICOMI; STYL WARREN OS, BOTH AT becoming unhappy with her previous licensee, Innovo Group Inc. Innovo had launched the Fetish line at retail last fall. Ironically, the deal with Eve comes only two weeks after Ecko Unlimited Y ROANNA, HAIR BY DENNIS GOTOUL Y ROANNA, HAIR BY was said to be near an agreement with Beyoncé. -
Yeshiva University
FASHION (Selection of organizations) Listed below are a few organizations to help you get started in your search. The CDC compiled this list through both research and previous job postings with our office. Always do your research first and keep in mind that organizations receive numerous requests for internships/jobs. Be professional at all times and only contact companies in which you have a serious interest. This handout is by no means an all inclusive list. It is meant solely as a tool to introduce you to some of the organizations in your field of interest. Executive Training and Buying (Full-time) Abercrombie & Fitch Jones Group Adjmi Apparel Loehmann’s Aerpostale MACY’S East American Eagle Outfitters Michael Kors Ann Taylor Nautica Associated Merchandising Corp. Newport News A/X Armani Exchange Old Navy Gap, Inc. Perry Ellis Barney’s Polo Ralph Lauren Bergdorf Goodman Polo Jeans Bloomingdales Prada Brooks Brothers Saks Fifth Avenue Calvin Klein, Inc. Steve Madden Coach The Children’s Place Macy’s Merchandising Group Tiffany & Co., GFT USA Corp Tommy Hilfiger Guess Warnaco, Inc. Home Bed Bath & Beyond Gracious Home Crate & Barrel Restoration Hardware Fragrances/Cosmetics AVON International Flavor & Fragrances Chanel Inc. Lancome LLC Clarins USA Inc L’Oreal USA COTY Inc. Maybelline Elizabeth Arden Revlon, Inc. Estee Lauder Co., Executive Training and Buying (Internship) Agent 011 Limited Brands (The Limited Stores) Alper International Liz Claiborne Anthropologie MACY’S Ariela-Alpha Maurice Malone: MoeMos: MoeJeans A/X --Armani Exchange Norma Kamali Betsy Johnson norma kamali-Barxv Wellness Calvin Klein Patricia Underwood Christian Dior Couture Phillips Van Heusen: CJ Apparel Group LLC Planet Sox Coach Polo Ralph Lauren Cocomo Connection Prairie NY Cynthia Rose New York Rachel Reinhardt Donna Karan NY Rebecca Romero Eli Tahari Saks Fifth Avenue Elizabeth Gillett NYC Select Showroom Escada USA Inc. -
FALL / WINTER 2015/2016 Fashion Opts
THE FASHION GROUP FOUNDATION PRESENTS FALL / WINTER 2015/2016 TREND OVERVIEW BY MARYLOU LUTHER N E W Y O R K • LONDON • MILAN • PARIS A F VANDERVOORST Fashion opts for options. It’s a season of either/or. Either a mini or maxi, she/he, tough/ tender, nice/naughty, romance/reality, minimal/maximal, crafts/technology, the ladies who lunch/the ladies who breakfast. Time-traveling sped through many decades, but the favorite destinations for many designers were the late ‘60s/early ‘70s. The mini-ed Mods were followed by mini/maxi duos. By the late ‘60s it was hip to be a hippie, a Boho in Soho, living on the fringe in fringe. Pants flared. Suede was the hide of record. Peasants and gypsies were fashion role models. Hats brimmed over. Granny boots walked the streets of Haight Ashbury. As The ‘70s proceeded, Boho was upgraded to the Rich Hippie. Velvet and lace, brocade and matelassé were the fabrics of record. Ruffled and ruffed romanticism, including latter-day Victorians, flourished. All these “Me Decade” (that’s what Tom Wolfe called The ‘70s) relics have been re-discovered, remodeled and reconfigured for fall. The ‘80s were big on big. So are numbers of today’s designers, especially Phoebe Philo of Céline, Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Melbostad of Diesel Black Gold. The unisex of The ‘60s was followed by the androgyny of The ‘80s, with Giorgio Armani leading the way. The man’s jacket became the mantle of authority for the women’s movement. Tomorrow’s she/he conjoins include tuxedo jackets with full skirts, aviator jackets with evening dresses, overalls with jeweled blouses and pinstriped blazers with shirts and fur skirts. -
“Hago Esto Porque Es Muy Divertido.” the DIAMOND DREAM FANTASY BRA 1997 $ 3,000,000
THE MILLION DOLLAR FANTASY BRA 1996 $ 1,000,000 DISEÑADO POR VICTORIA’S SECRET HORAS DE TRABAJO 300 COMPUESTO POR - 100 QUILATES DE DIAMANTES - VARIEDAD DE OTRAS PIEDRAS PRECIOSAS ÁNGEL CLAUDIA SCHIFFER NACIONALIDAD ALEMANIA DESFILES CON EL FANTASY BRA 1ª VEZ “Hago esto porque es muy divertido.” THE DIAMOND DREAM FANTASY BRA 1997 $ 3,000,000 DISEÑADO POR HARRY WINSTON HORAS DE TRABAJO 500 COMPUESTO POR - 93 PIEDRAS PRECIOSAS DE CORTE PERA - ALREDEDOR DE 100 DIAMANTES EN LOS RIBETES - UN DIAMANTE DE 42 QUILATES DE CORTE PERA EN EL CENTRO ÁNGEL TYRA BANKS NACIONALIDAD EEUU DESFILES CON EL FANTASY BRA 1ª VEZ “Estaba muy nerviosa por hacer el desfile de Victoria’s Secret por primera vez porque ellos consiguen que las modelos ganen fama mundial.” THE DREAM FANTASY BRA 1998 $ 5,000,000 DISEÑADO POR JANIS SAVITT PARA M&J HORAS DE TRABAJO 300 COMPUESTO POR - 77 QUILATES DE RUBÍES TALLA MARQUESA - 330 QUILATES DE DIAMANTES DE TALLAS MARQUESA Y PERA - TODOS ENGARZADOS EN PLATINO ÁNGEL DANIELA PESTOVA NACIONALIDAD REPÚBLICA CHECA DESFILES CON EL FANTASY BRA 1ª VEZ “Si no lo haces ahora igual no te lo piden el ano~ que viene.” THE MILLENIUM FANTASY BRA 1999 $ 10,000,000 DISEÑADO POR VICTORIAS’S SECRET HORAS DE TRABAJO 300 COMPUESTO POR - 2.000 DIAMANTES ENGARZADOS EN PLATINO - VARIOS ZAFIROS DE CORTE DIAMANTE ÁNGEL HEIDI KLUM NACIONALIDAD ALEMANIA DESFILES CON EL FANTASY BRA 1ª VEZ ´ THE RED HOT FANTASY BRA 2000 $ 15,000,000 DISEÑADO POR VICTORIAS’S SECRET HORAS DE TRABAJO 370 COMPUESTO POR - 1.300 PIEDRAS PRECIOSAS - 300 QUILATES DE RUBÍES TAILANDESES -
2014 Half-Year Review
2014 HALF-YEAR REVIEW 28 August 2014 32 Hoche - Paris BUILDING THE FUTURE IS OUR GREATEST ADVENTURE French société anonyme with share capital of €319,157,468 - Registered office: 32, avenue Hoche, 75008 Paris, France Registration No. 572 015 246 Paris - APE code: 7010Z 2014 HALF-YEAR REVIEW Correction to the document published on 28 August 2014: a few minor changes have been made to the paragraphs related to Alstom (pages 34 and 35). BOUYGUES French Société Anonyme with share capital of €335,613,887 Registered office: 32, avenue Hoche, 75008 Paris, France Registration No. 572 015 246 Paris – APE code: 7010Z BOUYGUES/2014 Half-year Review CONTENTS Board of Directors ................................................................................................................. 1 Half-year review of operations .............................................................................................. 3 Condensed consolidated first-half financial statements .......................................................... 38 Certificate of responsibility .................................................................................................... 71 Auditors’ report on the first-half financial statements ............................................................ 72 BOUYGUES/2014 Half-year Review BOARD OF DIRECTORS Since 20 May 2014, the Board of Directors has included two directors representing employees. They are Raphaëlle Deflesselle and Michel Bardou, both appointed by the Group Management Committee. The appointment follows an amendment -
2013 Sustainability Report 4 Sustainability Report 2013 Contents
2013 SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 4 SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2013 CONTENTS INTRODUCTION Highlights 8 Chairman’s letter to the Stakeholders 11 Guide to the Report 12 YOOX Group Sustainability Policy 15 Targets for improvement 17 1. IDENTITY 1.1 YOOX Group’s profile and its activities 22 1.2 Mission, values and principles 30 1.3 Reference market 32 1.4 Key sustainability issues and relations with Stakeholders 33 1.5 Corporate governance 36 2. MARKET 2.1 Economic performance 46 2.1.1 Economic and financial highlights: key aspects 46 2.1.2 Creating and distributing value 48 2.2 Customer relations 50 2.2.1 Managing Customer relations 50 2.2.2 Services designed to provide an innovative and exclusive 54 shopping experience 2.2.3 Focus on the Customer in the shopping process 61 2.3 Partners 68 2.3.1 Managing relationships with mono-brand online store Partners 68 2.4 Suppliers 70 2.4.1 Sustainability of Suppliers’ relationships 70 2.4.2 Focus on product quality and sustainability 71 2.5 Shareholders and Lenders 73 2.5.1 Protection of Shareholders and the financial community 73 2.5.2 Relations with Lenders 83 SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2013 5 3. PEOPLE 3.1 YOOX People 86 3.1.1 Human resources management 86 3.1.2 Breakdown of workforce 87 3.1.3 Hiring policies 89 3.1.4 Diversity and well-being 92 3.1.5 Compensation policy and incentive and appraisal schemes 94 3.1.6 Development and training policies 97 3.1.7 Workplace Health and Safety 100 3.1.8 Industrial relations 102 3.1.9 Internal communication 102 4. -
Mise En Page 1
WorldReginfo - 8abd55dc-f279-4f41-ad6a-48394863a352 WorldReginfo - 8abd55dc-f279-4f41-ad6a-48394863a352 TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 1 Kering in 2017 3 CHAPTER 2 Our activities 15 CHAPTER 3 Sustainability 57 CHAPTER 4 Report on corporate governance 139 CHAPTER 5 Financial information 201 CHAPTER 6 Risk management procedures and vigilance plan 363 CHAPTER 7 Additional information 377 This is a free translation into English of the 2017 Reference Document issued in French and is provided solely for the convenience of the English speaking users. WorldReginfo - 8abd55dc-f279-4f41-ad6a-48394863a352 2017 Reference Document ~ Kering 1 WorldReginfo - 8abd55dc-f279-4f41-ad6a-48394863a352 2 Kering ~ 2017 Reference Document CHAPter 1 Kering in 2017 1. History 4 2. Key consolidated figures 6 3. Group strategy 8 4. Kering Group simplified organisational chart as of December 31, 2017 13 WorldReginfo - 8abd55dc-f279-4f41-ad6a-48394863a352 2017 Reference Document ~ Kering 3 1 KERING IN 2017 ~ HISTORY 1. History Kering has continuously transformed itself since its inception 1999 in 1963, guided by an entrepreneurial spirit and a commitment • Acquisition of a 42% stake in Gucci Group NV, marking to constantly seek out growth and create value. the Group’s entry into the Luxury Goods sector. Founded by François Pinault as a lumber and building • First steps towards the creation of a multi- brand Luxury materials business, the Kering group repositioned itself on Goods group, with the acquisition by Gucci Group of the retail market in the 1990s and soon became one of Yves Saint Laurent, YSL Beauté and Sergio Rossi. the leading European players in the sector.