FAVORABLE FOR PATRICIA A NEW BOOK HEIDI’S WINDS LOOKS AT THE GUCCI STRUGGLED IN FOUR-DECADE- THE FIRST QUARTER, BUT LONG CAREER OF NEW DEAL KERING’S SALES ROSE MILLINER PATRICIA HEIDI KLUM UNVEILS 11.4 PERCENT AS A RESULT OF UNDERWOOD. AN INTIMATES LINE CURRENCY FLUCTUATIONS. PAGE 12 WITH MACY’S. PAGE 7 PAGE 2

‘GROWING PAINS’ XXXXXX Under Armour Sees Xxx Xxx Xxx Profi ts, Shares Fall Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx By ARNOLD J. KARR By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET

UNDER ARMOUR INC. is suffering some growing MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as pains — and finding it harder to meet skyrocket- resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut ing expectations. perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur As founder and chief executive offi cer Kevin Plank modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus described the fi rm as “growing up” Tuesday, invest- eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ing in systems, infrastructure and acquisitions as well voluptur? as product and marketing, the high-fl ying activewear Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- WWD labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. brand reported a 13.4 percent dive in fi rst-quarter profi ts that sent Under Armour shares down 4.8 per- Antiur, nobit faceptat. cent to $83.52 in New York Stock Exchange trading. It Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci was the largest decline for the stock on a percentage im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et basis since shares fell 7.4 percent on April 24, 2014, dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus when the company reported results for the fi rst quar- aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as ter of that year. intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. Buffeted by higher expenses from the acquisitions Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae of two digital wellness platforms, expansion overseas, lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con higher air-freight costs due to West Coast port disrup- cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae tions and a higher tax rate, Under Armour saw earn- repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut ings in the three months ended March 31 fall to $11.7 et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta million, or 5 cents a diluted share, from $13.5 million, dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- or 6 cents, a year ago. pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem Under Armour’s shares also were pressured by its full- imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate Breaking year outlook failing to meet analysts’ consensus estimates. con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c to The fi rm modestly raised its revenue guidance to $3.78 inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio dolorum billion and operating profi t guidance for the remainder of aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem even- 2015 to between $400 million and $408 million. dae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam rere- Even with the fi rst-quarter pressures, the company hen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid eturi showed no signs of lessening demand, posting reve- tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem im- Plaid porrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blant eos nues of $804.9 million, 25.5 percent above the $641.6 Designers favored that cozy, familiar million registered in last year’s quarter, above Wall dolupti atistia cus, aborpore landio to blautet as aut feeling for fall — and what evokes Street’s $802.5 million estimate. offi cipsam earciaes excearum, qui te offi cilicit est aut Footwear, led by the Curry One sneaker endorsed id mil min ea pore mil iumque pro vit offi cab il en- it better than a classic wool plaid? by NBA All-Star Stephen Curry of the Golden State dantotatum verovid mod et rat.Soloremquiam et pro Versatile and vibrant, the look mixes Warriors, grew 41.1 percent to $161 million, while que pelique plibus et, similiqui ius essi re arum et well with heritage tweeds to create apparel was up 20.9 percent to $555.5 million. The od mo earum aliquat latur, offi c tem faciend itatend Connected Fitness platform, supplemented in February esequatur molene landit endam solor sene vitaqua ti- a perfect balance between city and by the acquisitions of Endomondo and MyFitnessPal, asitaquunt faccuptur sum qui od untorum facitiis do- country. Here, AWAKE’s wool and alpaca lessita dolupta temporepe platect enistiam con conse- SEE PAGE 8 ditae. Itatum et aut ant enim acillor am eos esectas et skirt with Polo Ralph Lauren’s wool explam repudae. Nequam, omniminum faceruptatas herringbone blazer and cotton sweater. For more plaids, see pages 4 and 5. Max Mara’s Art Fete: Backs New Whitney Xxxxxx Xxxxxx By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET By LUISA ZARGANI MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as REGGIO EMILIA, Italy — The new Whitney Museum resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut of American Art is one of the biggest New York cul- perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur tural projects in recent years — but it is also one that modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus has a strong connection to Italy. eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut The 220,000-square-foot building, which is located voluptur? at the corner of Gansevoort and Washington Streets in Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- the Meatpacking District, is designed by the Genoa- labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. born, Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano Antiur, nobit faceptat. and will almost double the museum’s exhibition space. Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci In addition, Italy’s giant Max Mara fashion group has im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et partnered with the institution for the Whitney’s offi cial dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus opening event to be held May 24. Max Mara is orga- aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as nizing a private visit with around 80 collectors, cura- intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. tors and artists that afternoon, led by Piano, Adam D. Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae Weinberg, the Whitney’s Alice Pratt Brown director, lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con and Donna De Salvo, chief curator and deputy direc- cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae tor for programs. Julian Schnabel, Lori Simmons, repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut Francesco Clemente, Mario Sorrenti, and Mark and et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta Renee Rockefeller are some of those expected to at- dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- tend. This will be followed by a dinner in the muse- pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem um’s boardroom and later by a party with 4,000 guests. imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate “It’s a natural rapport and our family has a long- con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c standing affection for the Whitney Museum, its his- to inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio do- tory and what it has always represented for contem- lorum aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem porary art,” Luigi Maramotti, chairman of Max Mara, evendae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam said during an exclusive interview at the group’s rerehen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid headquarters here, a 90-minute drive east of Milan, eturi tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem designed by architect John McAslan, and overlooking imporrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blan the park created by landscape architect Peter Walker. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN MODEL: ACHOK/RED MANAGEMENT; HAIR BY KATSUMI MATSUO AT ARTMIX; MAKEUP BY JAVIER ROMERO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: EMILY TAYLOR; FASHION ASSISTANT: EMILY MERCER; SHOES BY FREDA SALVADOR SHOES BY MERCER; EMILY ASSISTANT: FASHION TAYLOR; EMILY ROMERO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: JAVIER MAKEUP BY ARTMIX; AT MATSUO KATSUMI HAIR BY MODEL: ACHOK/RED MANAGEMENT; SEE PAGE 6 SEE PAGE XX 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015 WWD.COM

Kering Revenue Nears $3B in Qtr. THE BRIEFING BOX our brands. We are facing this issue by working on By JOELLE DIDERICH the distribution, by safeguarding the exclusivity of IN TODAY’S WWD our distribution, by accelerating the launch of Web PARIS — Kering believes there is no single cure for sites in China, in Chinese, with the possibility to the currency swings roiling the luxury market. pay in Chinese currency,” he said. Even as its rival Chanel harmonizes prices world- Regarding Gucci, Jean-François Palus, group An exterior view of wide to neutralize growing differentials between managing director at Kering, said it was unrealistic Jon & Vinny’s. For regions, the parent company of Gucci, Puma and to expect the new hires to have an impact on fi rst- more, see page 10 Bottega Veneta is taking a more nuanced approach. quarter sales. and WWD.com. “We are addressing this in a balanced way,” “This industry has a slow metabolism,” he cau- Jean-Marc Duplaix, Kering’s chief fi nancial offi cer, tioned. “We are very pleased with what the team told analysts in a conference call after the group is doing, with the new organization, the new ways reported sales rose 11.4 percent in the fi rst quar- of working and the new ideas that they have, and ter to 2.65 billion euros, or $2.99 billion, boosted by so we are confi dent that this will bear fruit in the “massive” currency tailwinds. near future.” But the group’s core luxury operations remained François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chairman and under pressure. On a comparable basis, sales were ceo, earlier this year said Gucci could see a turn- down 0.6 percent in the quarter, dragged down by around as early as the second half of 2015, when the ongoing turnaround at Gucci under new chief Michele’s fi rst collections will be delivered to stores. executive offi cer Marco Bizzarri and creative direc- In the meantime, the maker of horsebit loafers tor Alessandro Michele. and Jackie handbags has deliberately terminated “Taken together, currency swings, tourism fl ows some wholesale accounts, in particular in Europe, PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY and internal transparency are rapidly creating a and held back shipment of the fi nal collection de- new landscape for global brands, and as a group we signed by Michele’s predecessor, Frida Giannini. have the resources to turn this into an opportunity,” “We have deliberately decided not to ship some Duplaix affi rmed. products this quarter in order to avoid a disappoint- Under Armour Inc. ceo Kevin Plank described the fi rm as “On the one hand, we don’t believe that a pure ing sellout for our wholesale accounts with a prod- “growing up” Tuesday, and there were plenty of signs of growing ‘wait-and-see’ attitude is a realistic option, consider- uct coming from the old design,” Duplaix explained. pains in the company’s diminished fi rst-quarter profi ts. PAGE 1 ing growing price transparency. Conversely, we are As a result, Gucci’s wholesale revenues were not convinced that the rigid harmonization or uni- down 23 percent in the fi rst quarter. Retail sales, The new Whitney Museum of American Art is one of the formization of prices across all markets is the way to which account for 83 percent of revenue, fell 4 per- biggest New York cultural projects in recent years — but it is go,” he said. “We are looking at the situation brand cent on a comparable basis, with Western Europe also one that has a strong connection to Italy. PAGE 1 by brand, and market by market, and working on all up 6 percent and North America fl at, but Japan levers at our disposal. Adapted pricing strategy can down 9 percent and Asia Pacifi c losing 10 percent. Heidi Klum is getting cozier with Macy’s with a line of be part of the answer for some products in some re- Among the measures to be implemented at Gucci contemporary bras and panties, called Heidi by Heidi Klum, gions. It can be combined with other options, such in coming months is a reduction in the number of being sold exclusively at the store. PAGE 7 as a tactical review of the collection structure along sku’s; the upgrading of products bearing the GG logo; with — if relevant — internal actions to smooth the a refreshment of the store network, with new fi nishes Moschino will be the men’s wear guest brand at the next for fl oors, counters and displays; price differential impact.” for fl oors, counters and displays; edition of Pitti Uomo, the men’s international trade show Kering’s luxury activities saw improved assortments, and the running in Florence June 16 to 19. PAGE 7 revenues rise 10.9 percent to 1.75 creation of a “unique” omnichan- billion euros, or $1.98 billion, nel structure, Duplaix said. while the sport and lifestyle divi- “Before the end of the third Attendees of Mary Katrantzou’s party at the Kayne Griffi n sion registered a 12.7 percent in- 23% quarter, Gucci will have launched Corcoran gallery celebrated the launch of the designer’s A-to-Z crease to 890 million euros, or $1 DECLINE OF WHOLESALE REVENUES a new best-in-class front-end plat- totes, in addition to her successful April overall. PAGE 10 billion. All dollar rates are calcu- form enabling the timely rollout of lated at average exchange rates AT GUCCI IN THE QUARTER. new functionalities in this fi eld,” LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton began testing its new- for the period concerned.’’ he said of the group’s plans for look Web site on Tuesday, its welcome page offering bird’s-eye On a comparable basis, luxury was down 2.6 growing e-commerce. views of the new Louis Vuitton Foundation museum. PAGE 11 percent, with Gucci logging a 7.9 percent decline, Revenues at Bottega Veneta were up 3.1 percent while sport and lifestyle rose 3.7 percent, helped by on a comparable basis in the quarter to 290 million The countdown to the Met Gala on May 4 is under way, and a 4.5 percent increase at Puma. “Trends in luxury euros, or $327 million. Barneys New York is riding the buzz with this year’s theme, were softer than in prior quarters and, for several Retail sales in North America were fl at, a situ- “China: Through the Looking Glass.” PAGE 11 reasons, were far from representative of what we ation Kering hopes to remedy by adding more U.S. expect in the balance of the year,” said Duplaix. department store accounts this year to increase ON WWD.COM Luxury sales in Japan were hit by a sharp com- the brand’s visibility. Sales in Bottega’s stores in parison basis with the fi rst quarter of 2014, when Western Europe, however, registered a 34 percent consumers anticipated purchases ahead of a rise in jump, boosted by heavy tourism fl ows on the back EYE: Jon & Vinny’s, a new American-Italian restaurant, is value-added tax. Meanwhile, ongoing pro-democ- of the weaker euro. opening in Los Angeles. For more, see WWD.com. racy protests dented revenues in Hong Kong and Saint Laurent saw revenues grow by 21.2 per- Macau, which account for 19 percent of retail sales cent on a comparable basis to 211.4 million euros,

CORRECTIONS A caption accompanying a photograph on page 6, Tuesday, featuring an Alice + Olivia gown was incorrect. It is not Taken together, currency swings, tourism fl ows and one of the dresses being auctioned, it is part of the internal transparency are rapidly creating a new capsule collection being carried in stores. High Times’ petition to release nonviolent marijuana users will be sent to U.S. Attorney General-designate Loretta landscape for global brands, and as a group we have the Lynch. “Designate” was inadvertatantly omitted in a story resources to turn this into an opportunity. on page 11, Monday. — JEAN-MARC DUPLAIX, KERING FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA @ WWD.com/social at Bottega Veneta, to name one example. or $239 million. Sales in directly operated stores in- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Nearly all brands in Asia were affected by the creased 39 percent in North America, 29 percent in WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. foreign exchange swings, he noted. Western Europe and 22 percent in Japan. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 82. WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, “Sharp currency moves in the quarter had an Revenues at the group’s other luxury brands Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, June, August, September, October, November and December, impact on sales, as some of our clients delayed pur- were down 4.5 percent on a comparable basis, and two additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. chases. We are actively monitoring the swings in dragged down by a double-digit decrease at jeweler Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian tourism fl ows that are dictated by currency chang- Boucheron and a subdued performance at watch addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, es, and in particular, we are preparing for the im- brands such as Ulysse Nardin, hit by the ongoing P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at pact of an increase in inbound tourism in Europe political crisis in Russia. wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York in the next months. However, at this stage, it’s still Balenciaga again saw double-digit sales in- Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected diffi cult to quantify the net impact of this dynamic,” creases across retail and wholesale,’’ while Stella address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you he added. McCartney and Alexander McQueen both posted are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues Duplaix said the group’s margins would doubt- “vigorous” growth. contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production less come under pressure in the fi rst half because Meanwhile, revenues at Puma totaled 825 mil- correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. of the currency hedging impact. lion euros, or $931 million, driven by strong mo- For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. The executive said he could not confi rm reports mentum in its footwear category. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED of a sharp growth in the parallel market for luxury The fi gures came on the heels of a 16 percent MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND goods as a consequence of the weak euro, though he rise in revenues at rival luxury group LVMH Moët TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED acknowledged it was a concern. Hennessy Louis Vuitton during the period. Hermès TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE “It’s an issue for the industry, it’s an issue for is due to report fi rst-quarter sales next week. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. don't You to attend. have to win Envy is too. welcome

The 2nd Annual CLIO Image Awards Tuesday, May 5th, The Plaza Hotel, NYC. in pa r tnership with For more information, visit clioimage.com 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015

Band of Outsiders’ wool ankle pants with M.Patmos’ handwoven yak blanket and Nellie Partow’s cashmere and wool hand-knit sweater. Shoes by The Offi ce of Angela Scott.

plaid romance THERE’S A RESURGENCE OF THAT GREAT SARTORIAL TRADITION — PLAID — FOR FALL IN LOOKS BOTH BOLD AND SUBTLE AND BEST PAIRED WITH MEN’S WEAR TWEEDS, COZY SWEATERS AND STURDY SHOES AND BOOTS.

photos by george chinsee styled by bobbi queen

Jenni Kayne’s wool and cashmere poncho with Jil Sander’s long wool vest and Theory’s wool and polyamide sweater and wool-blend trousers. Shoes by ICB. MODEL: ACHOK/RED MANAGEMENT; HAIR BY KATSUMI MATSUO AT ARTMIX; MAKEUP BY JAVIER ROMERO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: EMILY TAYLOR; FASHION ASSISTANT: EMILY MERCER EMILY ASSISTANT: FASHION TAYLOR; EMILY ROMERO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: JAVIER MAKEUP BY ARTMIX; AT MATSUO KATSUMI HAIR BY MODEL: ACHOK/RED MANAGEMENT; 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015 5 WWD.COM

Band of Outsiders’ wool Altuzarra’s wool and ankle pants with M.Patmos’ polyester plaid jacket handwoven yak blanket and with Maryam Nassir Nellie Partow’s cashmere Zadeh’s rayon and and wool hand-knit sweater. wool tweed skirt and Shoes by The Offi ce of Antonio Marras’ jersey Angela Scott. top. Boots and cotton socks by Altuzarra. plaid romance THERE’S A RESURGENCE OF THAT GREAT SARTORIAL TRADITION — PLAID — FOR FALL IN LOOKS BOTH BOLD AND SUBTLE AND BEST PAIRED WITH MEN’S WEAR TWEEDS, COZY SWEATERS AND STURDY SHOES AND BOOTS.

Edun’s lambskin trenchcoat with Isola Marras’ wool plaid skirt and sweater. Shoes by Maryam Nassir Zadeh.

photos by george chinsee styled by bobbi queen

Jenni Kayne’s wool and cashmere poncho with Jil Sander’s long wool vest and Theory’s wool and polyamide sweater and wool-blend trousers. Shoes by ICB.

Piazza Sempione’s wool and polyamide coat and wool and elastane pants with Marissa Webb’s merino wool sweater. Shoes by Freda Salvador. MODEL: ACHOK/RED MANAGEMENT; HAIR BY KATSUMI MATSUO AT ARTMIX; MAKEUP BY JAVIER ROMERO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: EMILY TAYLOR; FASHION ASSISTANT: EMILY MERCER EMILY ASSISTANT: FASHION TAYLOR; EMILY ROMERO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: JAVIER MAKEUP BY ARTMIX; AT MATSUO KATSUMI HAIR BY MODEL: ACHOK/RED MANAGEMENT; 6 WWD wednesday, april 22, 2015 Max Mara Teams With Whitney for Unveiling

{Continued from page one} Maramotti declined to reveal the cost of the The new Whitney Museum of Whitney event. American Art will nearly double the “The Whitney is unique not only for its patrimony of building’s exhibition space. Here, works of art but also for its institutional role, the bien- views of the redesigned exterior. nial….It’s a beacon and a reference point,” added the eloquent and soft-spoken executive, praising the institu- tion’s role in fostering contemporary art in the U.S. and open-minded point of view. The Maramotti family, which owns Max Mara, has long been a patron of the arts, and in 2008 unveiled a 43-room gallery in the company’s former manufacturing plant in Reggio Emilia. In the hall outside Maramotti’s office hang three impressive paintings by Ray Smith, “The Battle of the Tailors.” Over the years, the family bought several artworks that went on to be exhibited at the biennial, said Maramotti, citing American artist Ellen Gallagher’s pieces, for example. Max Mara and the Whitney have collaborated on a number of events, and, last year, the Maramottis received the museum’s American Art Award. But the Maramottis aren’t only patrons of the Whitney. The company also awards the Max Mara Art Prize for Women through a collaboration with the Whitechapel Gallery in London. The fact that Piano had been charged with design- ing the new Whitney building was also “fundamental” in spurring Max Mara’s support, Maramotti said. “We cre- ate a connection in the spirit of national pride. There is a desire for those that work in the arts and in the indus- try to bring back a virtuous Italy at the center of inter- national visibility.” Maramotti said he had “only admiration for Piano’s lack of attention-seeking behavior. His project is at the service of the museum and its visitors, not to affirm himself.” Max Mara partnered with the Renzo Piano Building Workshop to produce the brand’s new Whitney Bag, Xxxxxx Xxxxxx which will be displayed in the windows of Saks Fifth Avenue starting Saturday. The most distinctive element dedicated space for state-of-the-art classrooms; a 170- of the tote is the leather ribbing reminiscent of the seat multiuse theater; a black box theater for film, video Xxxxxx Xxxxxx steel tie-beamed exterior of the new museum. The bag and performance with an adjacent outdoor gallery; and combines traditional handcrafted and innovative tech- a Works on Paper Study Center, Conservation Lab and By LUISA ZARGANI niques: brass plates are used as a mould for strips of Library Reading Room. The classrooms, theater and leather that are then topstitched to create the pattern study center are all firsts for the Whitney. REGGIO EMILIA, Italy — The new Whitney Museum on the accessory, reflecting the structural metal compo- The large gallery for temporary exhibitions covers of American Art is one of the biggest New York cul- nents of Piano’s architectural project. The facade of the 17,280 square feet and is the largest gallery without col- tural projects in recent years — but it is also one that Whitney was an inspiration for the buckles, the inside umns in New York. has a strong connection to Italy. pocket and the snap hook — a signature feature of the “Our hope is that the light and the transparency of The 220,000-square-foot building, which is located bag, which were all created with a special galvanic coat- the spaces and the art will be able to create a cultural at the corner of Gansevoort and Washington Streets in ing, and the lining comes in red. exchange between the museum and the community of the Meatpacking District, is designed by the Genoa- The Whitney Bag, which took a year to develop and is the district, and with the city on a wider scale,” Piano born, Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano produced in-house, will be available in three sizes and said. “This is why our aim was to design an inviting and will almost double the museum’s exhibition space. colors — black, bordeaux and tan. There will also be an building, one that rather than taking possession of the In addition, Italy’s giant Max Mara fashion group has exclusive collectors’ limited, numbered edition of 250 space on the ground can be glimpsed from the street. A partnered with the institution for the Whitney’s official bags in a light blue/gray color similar to the metallic fa- museum is a place of major civic importance, and it’s opening event to be held May 24. Max Mara is orga- cade of the museum. right that it should be transparent and accessible.” nizing a private visit with around 80 collectors, cura- This is the first time the architect has helped design There perhaps is another reason for Max Mara’s in- tors and artists that afternoon, led by Piano, Adam D. a handbag, and the goal is to channel proceeds to the volvement with the Whitney: The U.S. is a strong market Weinberg, the Whitney’s Alice Pratt Brown director, Renzo Piano Foundation to finance its cultural and for the group and has consistently posted double-digit and Donna De Salvo, chief curator and deputy direc- educational projects. “Our aim was to apply one of the gains over the past three years. In 2014, sales in the U.S. tor for programs. Julian Schnabel, Lori Simmons, were up 25 percent, totaling 130 million euros, or $173 Francesco Clemente, Mario Sorrenti, and Mark and million at average exchange. “We firmly believe in this Renee Rockefeller are some of those expected to at- market, which is product-oriented. A class of more so- tend. This will be followed by a dinner in the muse- phisticated consumers is taking shape, eyeing special um’s boardroom and later by a party with 4,000 guests. products, and we have the added value of our history,” “It’s a natural rapport and our family has a long- observed Maramotti. Recently, a number of celebri- standing affection for the Whitney Museum, its his- ties have been photographed wearing the brand, from tory and what it has always represented for contem- Sarah Jessica Parker to Kim Kardashian, as well as the porary art,” Luigi Maramotti, chairman of Max Mara, Duchess of Cambridge. Max Mara also began working said during an exclusive interview at the group’s with the likes of Amy Adams and, previously, Jennifer headquarters here, a 90-minute drive east of Milan, Garner, for its advertising campaigns, specifically for its designed by architect John McAslan, and overlooking leather goods. The brand’s first shop-in-shop at Bergdorf the park created by landscape architect Peter Walker. Goodman will open in a month, and a freestanding store recently opened in Miami’s Design District. Group sales in 2013 totaled 1.3 billion euros, or $1.73 billion, and Maramotti said he expects to close 2014 with a single- digit increase. Unlike for most fashion brands recently, Greater China did not slow down for the company, posting a 12 percent gain last year, he said.

most characteristics elements of the museum project — the facade — to the bag: hence the idea of the modular Renzo Piano’s sketch of the building. strips enveloping the exterior,” Piano said. “We tried to maintain a simple, pure design, working only on the de- tails by applying a creative use of technology and plac- ing the accent on the respect for the materials.” The facade, he said, was one of the most complex el- ements of the museum to create. Another highlight of the building is the “areas for preparing the exhibitions [that] are closely connected to the exhibition rooms, which in turn stretch from the indoors outdoors onto the terraces. This creates a close connection between art spaces and the city,” he said. Standing near the High Line, the Whitney is “sort of the terminus, the end of line,” mused Maramotti, and “a paradigm for the future in creating a contemporary art museum in an iconic city.”

The building includes an education center with timothy schenck/whitney museum full exteriors by karen jobst; by nic fromlehoux/whitney top: rooftop museum; wall photo by clockwise WWD Wednesday, april 22, 2015 7 WWD.COM

Labor, Business Debate Trade Policy Klum Gets Intimate With Macy’s “Without TPA, the United States is rel- Intimates line that is sold online and at By KRISTI ELLIS egated to the sidelines as other nations By DAvID MOIN Bloomingdale’s.

negotiate trade agreements without us,” Klum’s Macy’s line has four bra and WASHINGTON — The heads of the U.S. Donahue said. “The United States cannot IT’S NOT LIKE Heidi Klum needs to four panty styles, priced between $12 Chamber of Commerce and AFL-CIO afford to stand on the sidelines as foreign sex up her image. and $44. Bra styles include the “Heidi squared off over the pros and cons of U.S. governments rewrite the rules of inter- Nonetheless, the model and for- Boost” for a deep plunge and super soft trade measures pending before Congress national trade and American companies mer victoria’s Secret Angel is getting gel pads for maximum lift; the “Heidi at a Senate hearing Tuesday, setting the are placed at a competitive disadvantage cozier with Macy’s with a line of con- Fit” sporty demi-cut bra with a custom- stage for contentious’’ trade battles on in market after market.” temporary bras and pant- ized uplift pad and supple Capitol Hill. Sen. Orrin Hatch (R., Utah), chairman ies, called Heidi by Heidi foam pads; the “Heidi The Senate Finance Committee hear- of the committee and one of the key spon- Klum, being sold exclu- Heidi Smooth” bra, which is ing came at a critical junction on trade as sors of the TPA bill, pointed to statistics sively at the store. Klum Klum lightly lined with memo- both that panel and the House Committee from the U.S. Trade Representative’s of- said her new intimates — ry foam pads to provide on Ways and Means prepared to mark up fice showing that every $1 billion in ser- which she models in up- “gentle lift” and be invis- and vote on several trade bills this week. vices exports supports an estimated 7,000 coming ads — give women ible underneath clothing, The centerpiece legislation under consid- American jobs in expanded services trade. “the perfect boost” and and the “Heidi Natural” eration is presidential Trade Promotion “Close to 12 percent of those em- “the most natural shape.” for a sexier, low cut bra Authority, formerly known as fast track, ployed in a services occupation are rep- Lace, meshy looks, rib- that’s unlined to eliminate which allows Congress to set negotiat- resented by unions and the administra- bon stripes, neon contrast bulk for a natural lift. ing objectives and consultation require- tion tells us the free trade agreement stitching, peek-a-boo key- In panties, Klum said ments for the executive branch, but also under consideration will expand exports hole cutouts and racer- the bikini and hipster limits Congress to an up or down vote on and create more jobs in export intensive back cuts spice up the pre- styles provide more cover- trade deals. industries, including services,” Hatch sentation. age, while the cheeky and Klum is already part thong styles are sexier op- of Macy’s marketing, tions. as the face of the 30th anniversary The collection consists of 30 pieces, The TPP is designed to be infinitely campaign this year for the retailer’s ranging in size from 32A to 38DD and International Concepts private brand. small to extra large. It launched last She’s clearly comfortable in inti- month at about 100 Macy’s stores and expandable...it is especially crucial that we mates, a business she knows well, since on macys.com. “The collection feels she serves as the creative director for fresh and feminine with beautiful lace get the terms of this one right. the Bendon lingerie group, which is details,” said Kimberly Hugonnet, producing the Macy’s line. Bendon Macy’s vice president and fashion di- — RichaRd TRumka, aFL-ciO makes the more expensive Heidi Klum rector for center core.

Richard Trumka, president of the AFL- said. “In turn, that means more jobs in CIO, told senators they would be giving sectors with significant union represen- up their leverage on shaping trade deals, tation and higher wages….Why do you House of Fraser Sets China Sites especially the massive Trans-Pacific oppose agreements that can expand your Partnership agreement between the U.S. membership and more importantly gen- or net profit figures. and 11 countries, if they approve TPA. erate good paying jobs, including many By SAMANTHA CONTI Trading in the first 11 weeks to April “The Trans-Pacific Partnership agree- union jobs for middle class workers?” 18 climbed 6.5 percent, the company ment being negotiated by our government Hatch asked Trumka. LONDON — House of Fraser’s new said, with further improvement in the includes 12 countries and about 40 percent The AFL-CIO chief argued that those owner Nanjing Cenbest is wasting gross margin rate in the period. of the world’s GDP [gross domestic prod- statistics only tell one side of the story on no time in rolling the British retailer “The continued growth has been uct],” Trumka said. “The TPP is designed the effects of globalization. into China. driven by successes in each of our key to be infinitely expandable so it could very “The statistics’’ that you quoted will Nanjing plans to open House of strategic pillars,” said Nigel Oddy, who well be the last trade agreement that we also tell you that for every billion dollars Fraser units in three, tier-2 cities — took over as the retailer’s chief execu- negotiate and it is especially crucial that of trade deficit — and we have about $500 Nanjing, Chongqing and Xuzhou — with tive officer earlier this year, succeeding we get the terms of this one right. The idea billion in trade deficit every year — there the first one set to open in early 2016 in John King, who remains chairman. that fast track lets Congress set the stan- are almost 15,000 jobs lost per billion dol- Nanjing. The second, in Chongqing, will “Our online business has performed dards and goals for TPP is an absolute fic- lars of trade deficit,” Trumka said. “Each open later in 2016 and the Xuzhou store exceptionally strongly and has sub- tion. The [TPP] agreement has been under one of the trade agreements we have in 2017. The stores, all of which will be stantial future potential,” Oddy added. negotiation for more than five years and signed so far has encouraged outsourcing branded House of Fraser, will each span “The Web store has been the largest is essentially complete….Congress cannot and increased that deficit.” about 200,000 square feet, and the inten- single store in terms of sales for the set meaningful negotiating objectives if Donahue countered that the jobs lost tion is to fill them with premium brands last three years and, for the first time the administration has already negotiated in U.S. manufacturing have gone to “two from its current mix. Most recently, the this year, it has become the most profit- most of the key provisions.” countries — the country called efficien- store has taken on Polo Ralph Lauren able store in the group. He argued for a new TPA bill and said cy and the country called productivity. women’s wear and Michael Kors wom- “Overall, we have continued to en- it should include provisions that ensure The American business system, which en’s wear and men’s wear. hance our premium department store that Congress approves of trading part- is the most efficient in the world, has House of Fraser will also start to positioning and this is reflected in our ners before negotiations begin, creates taken 40 percent of the jobs out of the trade online in China and other negotiating objectives that are specific manufacturing process because of in- international markets begin- to the trading partners involved, and en- formation technology, robotics, process ning with Australia. House of sures that Congress, not the executive engineering and supply chain manage- The U.K. company will join Fraser is branch, determines whether congressio- ment. Those 40 percent of the jobs are the likes of Galeries Lafayette rolling out in nal trade objectives have been met. never coming back.” and Lane Crawford in opening China. Thomas Donahue, president of the But Trumka said the proposed TPP department stores in China, U.S. Chamber of Commerce, supports “doesn’t address currency, it doesn’t but, unlike those firms, is focus- the proposed TPA legislation, noting that address the investment provisions, it ing on second-tier cities rather “TPA is a critical tool to help Americans doesn’t address the labor provisions, than Beijing or Shanghai. sell their goods and services to the 95 it doesn’t address the environment House of Fraser, which percent of the world’s customers living provisions and it doesn’t address ‘Buy carries men’s, women’s and outside our borders.” American’ provisions.” children’s clothing and acces- sories as well as home ware and electrical goods, unveiled plans for the China store open- Moschino to be Guest Brand at Pitti ings in a trading statement for the strong current trading. We are very ex- year ended Jan. 31. cited by the future as we embark on the designs,” said Raffaello Napoleone, chief Sales in the 12 months were up 5.8 next phase of growth both in the U.K. By ALESSANDRA TURRA executive officer of Pitti Immagine. percent on a like-for-like basis, with and internationally.” “There is also lots of originality in his online revenue representing 15.4 per- In the U.K., Oddy said the plan is MILAN — Moschino will be the men’s work — he seems to have a sort of spe- cent of the total figure. to “significantly increase” the level of wear guest brand at the next edition of cial-sensor focused on our times — in the The chain’s gross transactional investment in the multichannel propo- Pitti Uomo, the men’s international trade way he combines fabrics and materials, value for the year was 1.3 billion sition and the refurbishment of the show running in Florence June 16 to 19. especially the finest types, because his pounds, or $2.13 billion, while gross store portfolio, with six store upgrades After presenting his first two men’s designs are luxurious. And that is the profit hit a “record level” at 460.2 mil- planned for the coming year. collections for the Milanese brand in reason behind our invitation,” he added. lion pounds, or $754.7 million, accord- Internationally, House of Fraser will London, Moschino creative director Pitti organizers said they are staging ing to the store. open its second franchise store in Abu Jeremy Scott will make his men’s wear the first exhibition dedicated to the work Adjusted earnings before inter- Dhabi later this year and has plans to debut in Italy with a runway show held in and style of Italian fashion icon Nino est, taxes, depreciation and amortiza- open further stores in the Middle East. the Tuscan city during the fair. Cerruti, and are planning to host a run- tion, climbed 7 percent to 64.4 million Nanjing Cenbest acquired House of “In Jeremy Scott’s collections, we see way show by British designer Thomas pounds, or $105.6 million. Fraser last year in a deal that valued the the humor, the irreverence, the tendency Tait as women’s guest designer. In addi- All figures have been calculated at British retailer at around 480 million to explode myths, and the manipulation tion, Carlo Brandelli, creative director of average exchange rates for the peri- pounds, or $804.3 million. At the time, of pop iconography — all that we knew to British tailoring brand Kilgour, will debut ods to which they refer. The privately Nanjing said part of its expansion strat- be part of Franco Moschino’s spirit and a new fashion project at Pitti Uomo. owned store does not release revenue egy would be to open units in China. 2.5x7 (left)

8 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015

XXXXXX Jitrois Opens 1st U.S. Flagship, in N.Y. charge,” Jitrois said, “but it’s leather when he was a child and Xxx Xxx Xxx By Sharon EdElSon very expensive. it stays in your saw his father, a pilot, wearing a wardrobe and stays in your life. leather flight jacket.h is first job JitroiS, a luxury leather lady Gaga and Carla Bruni wear was as a child psychologist. “i Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx label worn by celebrities from Jitrois, but they don’t wear the realized you must reinforce the Cher and Elton John to Cindy same part of the collection.” ego,” he said. “one way was to By arnold J. Karr Crawford and heidi Klum, on Jitrois explained that leather dress them in a strong way.” tuesday opened its first U.S. sliced very thin and bonded to Presumably, Jitrois didn’t UndEr arMoUr inC. is suffering some growing flagship, a 700-square-foot store neoprene feels as soft and thin dress his charges in leather. pains — and finding it harder to meet skyrocket- at 959 Madison avenue between as cotton. to remove any doubts, that came with his next career, ing expectations. 75th and 76th Streets. the flag- an assistant fetched an iron and when he decided he would “give as founder and chief executive officer Kevin Plank ship is estimated to do sales of began ironing his leather shirt. women something to make them described the firm as “growing up” tuesday, invest- $2 million in its first year, $3 Jitrois called a particular kind stronger and more able to face ing in systems, infrastructure and acquisitions as well million in its second and $4 mil- of leather used by the compa- the world.” as product and marketing, the high-flying activewear lion in its fourth, said Jitrois brand reported a 13.4 percent dive in first-quarter chief executive officer Gilbert profits that sent Under armour shares down 4.8 per- Maria. “We plan to develop our cent to $83.52 in new York Stock Exchange trading. it own freestanding stores across was the largest decline for the stock on a percentage america,” he said, citing Miami, basis since shares fell 7.4 percent on april 24, 2014, los angeles and las Vegas as when the company reported results for the first quar- target cities. Inside the Madison Avenue store. ter of that year. Jean-Claude Jitrois, founder Buffeted by higher expenses from the acquisitions of the luxury leather brand, at- of two digital wellness platforms, expansion overseas, tended a party on the eve of loved it because the customers of america,” Jitrois said, sit- higher air-freight costs due to West Coast port disrup- the store opening, wearing a are so loyal,” Shelton said. ting in the store’s lower level as tions and a higher tax rate, Under armour saw earn- silver mesh vest and skintight the brand has a cult following models did turns in various out- leather pants. the store is li- for its styles, which range from fits including a sheepskin coat ings in the three months ended March 31 fall to $11.7 nyc.com a

censed to annette Presley, a full-on aggressive carved leather embroidered in a diamond pat- F million, or 5 cents a diluted share, from $13.5 million, b or 6 cents, a year ago. new Zealand entrepreneur and dresses in bold colors that mold tern and a striped top, $4,250, Under armour’s shares also were pressured by its full- cofounder of Slingshot, one of to the body to paper-thin suede made of leather strips alternat- year outlook failing to meet analysts’ consensus estimates. the country’s largest internet slipdresses in natural shades of ing with silk. a white dress with the firm modestly raised its revenue guidance to $3.78 providers, which she recently gray and moss and delicate per- embroidered roses on the bod- billion and operating profit guidance for the remainder of sold, and Jodi Shelton, founder forated leather jackets. Mostly, ice is $8,100. “i have longtime and ceo of Shelton Group and Jitrois is known for its heavily customers living on Madison 2015 to between $400 million and $408 million. Sam Deitch/ photo by Even with the first-quarter pressures, the company Global Semiconductor alliance. embellished leather items such avenue. My american debut Founder Jean-Claude Jitrois with Nea Mclin (left) and Ashley Elliott (right). showed no signs of lessening demand, posting reve- Shelton downplayed the big as a white leather jacket for started a long time ago. i used to nues of $804.9 million, 25.5 percent above the $641.6 differences between technol- $13,150, with appliquéd white do trunk shows. they were like ny planger, or dipped in water. Existing Jitrois boutiques million registered in last year’s quarter, above Wall ogy and electronics and fashion, roses in which petals are lined tupperware parties.” “there’s no imperfection in are located in Paris, london, Street’s $802.5 million estimate. saying only that they met Jitrois with red, blue and yellow suede. typical Jitrois collections fea- the skins,” he said. “the lambs luxembourg, Beijing, hong Footwear, led by the Curry one sneaker endorsed “serendipitously” in Paris. as the jacket wears, the petals ture 280 items, including stretch need to be bred in a nice envi- Kong, Courchevel and Cannes, by nBa all-Star Stephen Curry of the Golden State “they completely bought into lift to reveal more color. leather and washable leather. ronment” with no overcrowding. France. there’s also a small Warriors, grew 41.1 percent to $161 million, while my philosophy,” Jitrois said.” We “i have very sweet memories Buying a piece “is an emotional Jitrois had his first brush with store in aspen. apparel was up 20.9 percent to $555.5 million. the Connected Fitness platform, supplemented in February by the acquisitions of Endomondo and MyFitnessPal, Under Armour Profits, Shares Slip SEE PaGE XX {Continued from page one} share-price appreciation given lofty more than doubled in size to $8.4 million valuation, few near-term catalysts and in revenues. increasingly high expectations that are “We have already added over 10 getting harder and harder to beat.” million unique registered users to our he maintained his “hold” rating on platform since our initial February the stock while lifting his price target to announcement, bringing the total $85 from $73. Connected Fitness community to over Konik pointed out that more than 60 130 million unique registered users,” percent of the users of the Connected said Plank, chairman and ceo of the Fitness platform are women, aligning Baltimore-based company. well with the company’s goal of building With its first stores in Brazil and the its sales to females, and that more than Middle East and Web site launches in 40 percent live outside north america, the Philippines and the netherlands helping to foster growth in the interna- in the first quarter, sales outside north tional arena. america rose 74.2 percent to $96 mil- Susan anderson, analyst at FBr lion. at constant currency, sales were up Capital Markets, told WWd, “With 85.9 percent. Under armour’s record, anything Plank said on a conference call with below a 30 percent pickup in revenue analysts tuesday morning that China, was going to be a disappointment. where sales tripled in the quarter, “will Expectations are just way too high. But be one of our largest countries in rev- the company made huge strides in foot- enue outside north america by the end wear, e-commerce and international, of the 2015.” the Japanese business is where they turned their first quarterly the largest outside the U.S., with sales [operating] profit ever. and even with approaching $300 million. the ports problems and currency ex- Even after tuesday’s sell-off, shares change, margins came in better than remained nearly $10 above the $73.57 at many expected.” which they closed on Feb. 4, when the Gross margin was flat with a year-ago company reported fourth-quarter re- at 46.9 percent of sales, and a merchan- sults and announced its acquisitions of dise margin increase offset by air freight Endomondo and MyFitnessPal. the com- charges and currency effects. pany paid $475 million for the two firms She also noted that the company had after buying austin-based MapMyFitness scored yet another victory in media im- for $150 million in late 2013, beginning pressions less than two weeks ago when its push into online fitness, wearables another one of its brand ambassadors, and related wellness technology. Jordan Spieth, led the Masters tournament Jefferies analyst randal Konik was in augusta, Ga., from start to finish. exuberant in his research note on the direct-to-consumer revenues grew firm after the earnings release, but 21 percent, below the revenue growth equally mindful of the roadblocks to rate, to about $201 million in the quarter stock appreciation. as the firm expanded to 153 units, 19 of “as far as we’re concerned, Ua just them adhering to its nonfactory “Brand needs to keep doing what it’s doing be- house” format. cause the results are impressive,” he com- Brad dickerson, chief operating officer, mented. “this quarter was no exception told participants on the conference call with solid growth across categories and up- that e-commerce growth “far exceeded” wardly revised earnings” for the full year. retail growth during the quarter and that “From a stock perspective, however, mobile accounted for 40 percent of traffic we see few near-term catalysts to drive and 20 percent of e-commerce sales. 2x5 (right)

WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015 9 WWD.COM Fashion World Fetes Mallis Finley Film in the Works have been interviewed for it in- By DAVID MOIN By LISA LOCKWOOD clude Tommy Hilfi ger, Carolina Herrera, Bill Cunningham and NEW YORK — “It was scary,” NEW YORK — Ruth Finley, Nicole Miller. Michael Kors recalled when founder of the Fashion Dressed in a turquoise the ceiling collapsed at his 1990 Calendar, who turned 95 in Yeohlee suit, Finley was busy fashion show in a loft. “Thank January, is gearing up for her working the room at Upper God no one was hurt. Fern was next career on the silver screen. Story by Charlie Palmer, greet- there. She rolls up her sleeves, As she was being feted Monday ing guests such as Mark Badgley, looks at me and says, ‘We’ve got night by Citymeals-on-Wheels, James Mischka, Kathleen Turner, to do something.’” Nicole Fischelis, The incident motivated Fern John Pomerantz and Mallis to centralize New York Stan Herman. Fashion Week. Asked how she Kors and others in the crowd became involved in of 450 strolled down memory Citymeals, Finley lane with Mallis Monday night said simply, “They at Saks Fifth Avenue, which held called me. They a book signing for her new book wanted to get fashion “Fashion Icons.” Almost 200 people into it, and I copies of the Rizzoli-published signed up [the late] tome, a compendium of 19 of her Pauline Trigère, “Fashion Icons” interviews at John Pomerantz the 92nd Street Y, were sold. and quite a few “I was her fi rst interview at younger designers.” the 92nd Street Y. It’s really a Finley joined the special place,” said Calvin Klein, board of Citymeals who rarely takes interviews in 1983, only two these days. “With Fern, who has years after its been a friend for a long, long founding by Gael time, well before the CFDA, it Greene and James was an easy thing to do.” Beard. She had her “She’s a sweetheart with a colleagues spear- lot of chutzpah,” said Tommy head the annual Hilfiger, who was also inter- Calvin Klein Fashion & Beauty viewed by Mallis at the Y. “She and Fern Mallis Industry Salute never takes no for an answer.” to Citymeals-on- Wheels, which was the fi rst of its kind for the organization. “Ruth is one of Citymeals’ most de-

PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY voted supporters,” James Mischka, Ruth Finley and Mark Badgley. said Beth Shapiro, executive director of where she has served as a long- Citymeals-on-Wheels. “Over the time board member, Finley was years, through her untiring com- being followed by cameramen mitment to the organization, she who are doing a documentary has raised more than $2 million about her life and career. for Citymeals.” With the working title “Ruth,” Finley’s event succeeded the documentary is being di- in raising more than $65,000 to rected by Christian D. Bruun benefit Citymeals, which pre- and is expected to be released pares and delivers more than next January. It’s about Finley’s two million weekend, holi- Dee Ocleppo and life, the Fashion Calendar and day and emergency meals for Marc Metrick Tommy Hilfi ger Michael Kors American fashion since she has 18,000 homebound elderly New

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY been involved in it. Those who Yorkers every year.

Ralph Lauren did say no to Mallis’ Y invitation, but she got the designer to write the fore- word to her book. “I wanted him in the book. Since he didn’t do the interview, I needed him to do the foreword,” Mallis told WWD. She’s eyeing some Real People. other hard-to-gets for the Y se- ries. “I’m in touch with Karl FAST ANSWERS. Lagerfeld. Rosita Missoni said she would do it. Kanye West has an invitation.” A conversation No one likes getting lost in a maze of corporate procedures—at Milberg with West could be the powwow Factors, you don’t have to. We’re a family-run company that builds the two need after some mutual public dissing recently. close working relationships, one client at a time. We’ll get to know your As for her favorite Mallis mo- business, and we’re committed to responding whenever you need us. ment, public relations execu- tive Melanie Seymour Holland For over 75 years we’ve provided services that include credit protection, replied: “When she fi red me in 1994. I was Fern’s secretary when working-capital nancing, and the management and collection of she was the head of the CFDA. It accounts receivables. We can craft an ef cient solution that works for was the nicest fi ring I ever had.” you. So give us a call! You know we’ll be here. Also spotted in the crowd were Saks president Marc Metrick, Francisco Costa, John Varvatos, Terron Schaefer, Ralph Rucci, Tracy Reese, Milberg Factors, Inc. Nanette Lepore, Peter Copping, Martha Stewart, Steven Kolb, A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE Tyson Beckford, Sela Ward, Diane von Furstenberg, Ron Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200 Chereskin, LuAnn de Lesseps, Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 Judy Licht, Gianluca Maina, Denise Deluca, Michael Ernie White, SVP, Winston-Salem 336.714.8852 McCarty and his wife Kim, Nicole Fischelis, Michelle Atayah, Cindy Lewis, Stan www.milbergfactors.com ©2014 Milberg Factors, Inc. Herman and Elizabeth Woolfe.

Real_People_Reformat.indd 1 11/16/14 9:06 AM 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22, 2015 FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye. Animal A view of Jon & Vinny’s. Meringue two ways. House TWO YEARS after the much lamented closing of the popular late-night pizzeria Damiano’s Mr. Pizza, a new spot is opening in its place. And there are reasons to be optimistic. Two, to The olive oil fried egg BLT. A table setting at the restaurant. be more precise. The guys behind Jon & Vinny’s are Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the buzzy culinary duo also known as “the Animal guys.” When they opened Animal in 2008, the meat-centric restaurant quickly became a foodie staple on bustling Fairfax Avenue, a thoroughfare anchored by the landmark deli Canter’s and packed with kosher markets and hipster skateboard shops. Their latest venture, a 45-seat Italian-American restaurant, SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY AND TABLE AND SHOOK, RESTAURANT DOTOLO brings them full circle to their their version of Californian- Balahoutis and gallery owners beloved neighborhood, where Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook Italian cool. Architect Jeff Esther Kim Varet and Anat Ebgi. they once shared a bachelor pad Guga installed white oak walls Their latest venture is the and have now settled with their and banquettes, skylights and fi rst to offer breakfast, lunch own families. “It reminds you of drop-leaf tables fi xed to the and dinner, allowing hungry the place that, as a kid, you went fl oor (thus eliminating wobbly fans to nosh starting at 8 a.m. on to with your family after playing tabletops). In the front, a long olive oil fried eggs with grilled T-ball. Now that we both have counter faces the open kitchen; Tuscan kale and potato hash, children, this is where we’ll in the back, a temperature- baked bucatini pie or a range bring them,” Shook says. controlled tasting room houses of fresh-baked goods. Ironically, The menu includes comforting more than 1,000 bottles of their most straightforward classics like meatballs with wine curated by director of dining concept is also the most marinara; tagliatelle Bolognese; operations Helen Johannesen. diffi cult to perfect. plenty of artisanal pizzas, and In the meantime, they “We’re not reinventing soft-serve ice cream. But, Shook opened seafood concept the wheel, but as a chef it’s says, “it’s not necessarily a red- Son of a Gun on nearby West harder with less items and less sauce place because we also Third Street, partnered with ingredients to make every dish take advantage of the fresh celebrity chef Ludo Lefebvre as good as we can,” Dotolo says. local produce.” Seasonal small to launch Trois Mec and Petit Judging by the steady stream of plates contain a farmer’s market Trois, and raised their profi le patrons during the fi rst two days in bounty, including a tangerine cooking at celeb-heavy events business, it’s a good thing that all and avocado salad with spring such as the Sundance Film menu items (and wines), are also onions, watermelon radish and Festival and Baby2Baby gala. available for takeout and delivery. fennel pollen, and a roasted beet The Animal catering business, — MARCY MEDINA “Greek” salad with feta, tomato now housed next door to Jon and a black olive vinaigrette. & Vinny’s, became a favorite Jon & Vinny’s Shook and Dotolo bought on the art and fashion circuit, 412 North Fairfax Avenue, the Jon & Vinny’s building in including private dinners for Los Angeles 2011, but it took several years to jewelers David Webb and Irene 323-334-3369. jonandvinnys.com transform the old pizzeria into Neuwirth, perfumer Alexandra Hours: Daily, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.

MARY KATRANTZOU is having a prints,” said Gillian Jacobs, of the good April. cult series “Community.” Last week, Bergdorf Goodman “Her prints are like, so hosted a dinner in her honor wild. Sometimes being really Hail Mary in New York. And on Monday, abstract can feel masculine Matchesfashion.com moved the or bulky, but hers are always celebration to the West Coast. elegant and feminine,” Jena The offi cial reason for the party Malone continued. Kiernan was to launch the designer’s Shipka, Jenny Slate and A-to-Z totes. Katrantzou Michelle Monaghan were was overwhelmed with the among the other actresses attention, but more so, she who attended. was in awe of the space With most of the around her, the Kayne action in the courtyard, Griffi n Corcoran few guests realized that gallery. It wasn’t one of Turrell’s famed until the party was skyscapes was on view in in full swing that she the gallery’s conference realized the venue’s room. Monaghan managed extraordinary origins. to fi nd her way there, “I just found out James and sat mesmerized Turrell designed this for several minutes, space,” she said. “How snapping photos with did I get so lucky? It’s a her phone. “I’m sorry, hidden gem.” All over Mary, your clothes are the grassy garden great, but this is the real courtyard, her Kiernan reason I came,” she said, in colorful bags were Shipka in jest. “Actually, I just joined displayed on their MSGM. Instagram and I’m having own white pedestal, a lot of fun posting things. all the better for her many, I started following Mary. Gillian Jacobs and Jenny Slate in many Hollywood fans to ooh I looked at her feed and Liberty Michelle Monaghan Mary Katrantzou with the designer. and aah over them. “What thought, ‘This woman seems Ross in Mary Katrantzou.

can I say, I’m a whore for like a lot of fun.’” — M.M. AMY GRAVES PHOTOSBY WWD Wednesday, april 22, 2015 11 WWD.COM

Since Larsen’s dismissal, Webster has gained oversight of 26 of the 28 MeMo pad domestic titles published by Time Inc., Fashion scoops which includes InStyle, People, Sports TIME INC.’S PAY: Time Inc. revealed total Illustrated and Fortune. compensation of its top executives in a — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD CHINA CAPSULE: With less than two weeks Securities and Exchange Commission to go, the countdown to the Met Gala filing Tuesday. Chairman and chief SITE LINES: LVMH Moët Hennessy on May 4 is under way, and Barneys executive officerJoe Ripp saw his total Louis Vuitton began testing its new- New York is riding the buzz. In honor compensation shrink 35.5 percent look corporate Web site on Tuesday, of this year’s theme, “China: Through to $5.8 million, due mainly to a 68.1 its welcome page offering bird’s- the Looking Glass,” the retailer tapped percent reduction in stock and options eye views of the new Louis Vuitton Huishan Zhang to design a capsule awards, which totaled $2.4 million. Foundation museum, designed by collection of dresses that celebrate Ripp’s base salary grew 230 percent, to architect Frank Gehry. the Chinese spirit. The London-based $1 million, and his bonus expanded 22.2 More visually dynamic and editorial designer touched down in New York percent to $1.1 million. in tone than the previous iteration, on Tuesday afternoon — his very first Ripp’s salary and the salaries of whose framework dates back to 2001, time in the U.S. — for the unveiling executives Norman Pearlstine and Jeffrey the new site is meant to provide of the five-piece lineup. Several of Bairstow appear to be inflated since they information about the French luxury Zhang’s signature touches, which draw joined the company in fall 2013. Case group and its 70 brands to consumers from his East-meets-West inspiration, in point: executive are seen throughout — like lace in a vice president and figure-8 pattern, a good luck charm in chief content officer Chinese culture — as well as some new Pearlstine earned a motifs, such as a Swarovski crystal- salary of $903,458, embellished emperor dragon on a red up from $128,077, but organza column gown. The collection, his bonus amounted like all of Zhang’s, is made in China. to $270,000, down “We have this atelier where we from the $1.4 million are able to produce in China and sell “make whole bonus” to department stores like Barneys,” that he received BEE PROACTIVE: J. Crew is doing its part to he said, noting that the retailer had Franca Sozzani and when he joined Time help the diminishing bee population. In purchased his ready-to-wear collection Tory Burch Inc. in 2013. His total honor of Earth Day today, the retailer will for the fourth season in a row. “We are compensation was launch a Save the Bees campaign, which one of the first Made in China luxury still up 64.3 percent The homepage of the LVMH Web site. will donate 50 percent of profits from an brands to sit on the designer floors. opening of Burch’s first flagship in the in 2014 to $2.5 exclusive collection of T-shirts to the Xerces That’s a very proud moment for me.” city, quietly unveiled in December. Roger million. Society, an Oregon-based nonprofit for The capsule, sold in eight Barneys Farah, cochief executive officer of the Executive vice president and chief and investors, and also highlight its wildlife and its habitat. The initiative falls locations across the U.S. as well as Burch brand, greeted the designer’s financial officer Bairstow netted a 37.7 values, know-how, heritage and talents. within J. Crew’s Garments for Good program online, ranges from $2,495 to $7,800. mother Reva and her brother, Robert Isen, percent rise in total compensation, to The latter includes ones beyond its and will offer T-shirts for women and Zhang’s next stop is Los Angeles, a board member, president of business $3.4 million, on a salary of $825,000 and famous fashion designers to include children illustrated by Donald Robertson. The where he’ll stop by the retailer’s development and chief legal officer. a bonus of $590,000. Guerlain’s supply-chain director, a Ts will be available at J. Crew and Crewcut Beverly Hills flagship. — LUISA ZARGANI Executive vice presidents Evelyn sales manager at Louis Vuitton and a stores and online and will retail for $45 for As for whether he’ll be attending Webster and Todd Larsen both saw gains watchmaker at Zenith. the women’s model, $36 for the girls’ T-shirt the Met Gala himself, Zhang wasn’t FOR THE CAUSE: Sandro Choi, creative in their total compensation. Webster, A News & Documents section sure. “But if I’m not going, some of my director of Jimmy Choo; Tim Gunn; who at the time split oversight of Time includes highlights of the group dresses are definitely going to,” he said. Karen Klopp of What2WearWhere and Inc. properties with Larsen, saw a 64 on social media, while Behind the “We just finished a fitting today through Amber Sabathia, creator and designer of percent bump to $2.8 million. Larsen, Scenes offers a tour of Vuitton’s Paris a Skype meeting. We do a couture CCandy and wife of New York Yankees who was let go in December, recorded headquarters on the Rue du Pont-Neuf, fitting through Skype.”— KRISTI GARCED star CC Sabathia, were the honorees at a 68.5 percent jump to $2.5 million. including its prototyping workshop. the 10th annual Purses & Pursenalities Webster’s salary rose 6.4 percent to The site is initially available in TORY IN TUSCANY: Tory Burch was feted at luncheon at New York’s Metropolitan $790,250, but her bonus fell 18.3 percent French and English, with Chinese, a dinner on Monday evening organized Club Tuesday. The lunch was to raise to $175,455. Larsen’s salary grew 6.2 Italian, Japanese and Russian versions by Vogue Italia’s editor in chief Franca funds for the Madison Square Boys & percent to $796,731, but his bonus to be added in the coming weeks. Sozzani. Burch, who has traveled Girls Club and included auctions of bags declined 13 percent to $176,137. — MILES SOCHA extensively throughout Italy, mastered from brands such as Carolina Herrera, a few words in Italian. “You make me Michael Kors, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, feel at home here,” she said to Sozzani. Fairchild Baldwin, Giorgio Armani and Guests ranging from Valeria Golino, Elisa Ralph Lauren. Guests including Nicole Sednaoui, Charlotte Lawson-Johnson, Jemima Miller, Rachel Lee Hovnanian, Jill Fairchild, Jones, Eva Riccobono and Matilde Borromeo Jennifer Creel, Jill Roosevelt and Hilary Dick to executives including Pomellato’s nibbled on branzino and vegetables Andrea Morante and The Carlyle Group’s as the talk focused on the club and on Marco De Benedetti were seen gazing inspiring youth. Klopp revealed she For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. admiringly at the spectacular frescoes is writing a book, “What2 Wear Where and antique art at the 16th-century Packing for Travel,” while Collins said Palazzo Cicogna, a private residence her book, “The God of Driving,” is in Milan, with live swing music by being developed into a film. Sabathia, Check out the Woody Gipsy Band as a backdrop. meanwhile, accepted her award by Unflappable, Sozzani walked easily saying, “This is the first time I can say the new DIGITAL on crutches. “I fell at Easter during a ‘I am honored,’ instead of ‘CC and I are Branded Off-price Merchandise version of walk with my dog,” she said, shrugging. honored.’ I guess I’ve made it.” wanted for our Louisville Outlet. The event was held to mark the official — WWD STAFF Retail4LESS, Louisville’s NEW Outlet destination. Our New York office is now open by appointment. The Contact Gary at 516.829.2400 Take a look at our story at premier www.retail4LESSoutlet.com. destination Wet Seal Names Langsdorf CEO for the fashion which it beat out B. Riley. The deal, By KARI HAMANAKI PATTERNS, SAMPLES, industry’s Real Estate, which includes $7.5 million in cash, of- PRODUCTIONS ficially closed last week. Full service shop to the trade. Business Opportunities, FOOTHILL RANCH, Calif.-based teen Wet Seal filed for Chapter 11 bankrupt- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 and Help Wanted listings. retailer Wet Seal Inc. on Tuesday sev- cy protection in January following a tough ered ties with chief executive officer set of years for many teen retailers that Ed Thomas, replacing him with Bill also pushed Delia’s Corp. and Deb Shops POST YOUR LISTINGS ONLINE NOW! Langsdorf. to also seek bankruptcy protection as FASHIONCAREERS.MARKET.ADICIO.COM Langsdorf is the former chief financial pressures mounted for their businesses. officer of Irvine, Calif.-based action sports Wet Seal over the past few years has Sales Person Needed: A manufacturer retailer Tilly’s Inc. and had been serving seen a number of false starts to turn- that produces apparel for retailers and as an adviser to Wet Seal since November. ing its business in which it jumped from department stores is looking for a sales person with a deep rolodex to He also takes on the titles of president, one turnaround strategy to the next, in- increase their private label production business. Comprehensive cfo and secretary at the teen retailer. cluding an emphasis on plus sizes and infrastructure with global offices. Thomas’ departure came with news e-commerce to a wind-down of heavy pro- www.thegulatigroup.com. Serious inquires only. that the company let go of interim cfo and motions that ultimately created sticker Willing to prove themselves. secretary Thomas R. Hillebrandt and shock for its core group of customers. The [email protected] that directors Nancy Lublin, John Mills, company’s struggle to find a game plan Kenneth Reiss and Denna Varshavskaya that stuck was also labored by additional resigned from the board of directors. challenges, including a proxy battle led The news follows private equity firm by activist investor Clinton Group and Versa Capital’s winning bid for Wet Seal the departures of former chief executives in a bankruptcy auction last month in Susan McGalla and John Goodman. 12 WWD wednesday, april 22, 2015 WWD.COM Design District Plans Enter Phase 3 real estate development and investment but this is only the first half.” By sharon edelson fund. General Growth Properties and robins said phase three is the final ashkenazy acquisition corp. last fall phase — for now. “We have an additional the MiaMi desiGn district is continu- took a 20 percent stake in the district, outstanding portfolio of land holdings ing to add to its heady mix of star architect- which boasts retailers such as Marni and where we can do future expansions and designed buildings, public art installa- Maison Martin Margiela. add another 1.5 million square feet,” he tions and luxury and contemporary retail, according to craig robins, founder said, “but haven’t made plans for that.” with the addition of food from chefs Joël and owner of dacra, the partners are along 41st street, “some of the Kering brands will open flagships,” robins Jun aoki in collaboration with Mirei said, declining to name specific labels. Uchibe. robins said hermès and dior will Here and right: Renderings “We’ve got great anchors from the Kering move to permanent locations in the fall. of buildings in the Miami brands. dolce & Gabbana and céline will several fashion brands will be Design District. open and Prada will do a major flagship housed in an abstract building with a in that section.” white honeycomb facade designed by a new north-south thoroughfare, daly Genik. one of the more unusual Paseo Ponti, will terminate at an area structures is the Museum Garage, which called Paradise Plaza. one block west features art and design installations on of Paseo Ponti is First avenue, where all sides. it will house contemporary rag & Bone will occupy a flagship in a brands on the ground floor and provide three-story building on the corner of parking on the upper levels. curated by 41st street. diane von Furstenberg will architect terry riley, there’s an installa- open a store on 40th street just off First tion of real cars on the face of the build- avenue. “heading toward 39th street, on ing, Jürgen Mayer’s facade of interlocking First avenue, we’ll have a great selection puzzle pieces and nicolas Buffe’s cartoon of contemporary brands,” robins said. and Baroque images writ large. robins, who had the vision to trans- the three-level Paradise Plaza and form the dilapidated art deco area of its courtyard, designed by Johnston south Beach into the Miami design Marklee, will feature two levels of retail district, said brands are encouraged to and robuchon’s atelier. build large flagships. “We want to rep- “We’re working hard to do something licate the feeling of Fifth avenue or comparable with food as we did with art robuchon and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. investing “several-hundred million dol- rodeo drive,” he added. “We’re not try- and design,” robins said. “We’re work- Phase three of the Miami design lars” in the third phase of the develop- ing to cram people into small spaces. We ing with visionary chefs from around the district will largely be completed by ment. the total price tag of the design want a complete assortment of goods and world.” two additional restaurants will august 2016, bringing the number of district will be $2 billion when complete. a great presentation of everything.” bow in phase three, including a “major stores to 100. a condominium and hotel “We finished the first two phases and some of the retailers with temporary restaurant” in the hotel designed by are slated to open in 2017. they look pretty spectacular,” robins said. stores are beginning to open permanent studio Gang on the corner of 40th street the district is owned by Miami design “Basically, phase three will double what’s spaces. earlier this month, louis Vuitton and First avenue. “We’re just concluding district associates, a partnership be- here. there’s a perception of the design unveiled a dramatic flagship with a fa- a comprehensive agreement for the hotel tween dacra and l real estate, a global district as being amazing and looking cool, cade designed by Japanese architect and condo development,” robins said. Hats Off to Patricia Underwood “the idea was really to show the hats in action — By Misty White sidell hats being used or how a hat would be part of an image, not just an item on its own. it was about seeing them in Patricia UnderWood’s four-decade-long career will context and situations because that’s how people who be celebrated this spring with the release of a retrospec- buy my hats wear my hats — they really wear them,” tive rizzoli book, “Patricia Underwood: the Way you Underwood said of the title, which will be sold in fine Wear your hat.” the tome — compiled by Jeffrey Banks bookstores as well as on hsn. and written by doria de la chapelle, with a foreword by the designer, who started her hat business in 1973, isaac Mizrahi — chronicles Underwood’s diverse designs has operated on a primarily wholesale basis since the Underwood — in a and experimentation with shape, material and color. beginning. Underwood says that it’s this model — re- burgundy velour hat of her the title’s stack of archival images by photographers tailing directly to shoppers on the floor of luxury em- own design — fills the including Bruce Weber, annie leibovitz and irving Penn, poriums like Bergdorf Goodman — that has made her Bentley with fresh flowers. display Underwood’s love for collaboration: With the acutely aware of the ebb and flow of fashion trends as Linda Vojtova in a jaunty Underwood fashion designers for which she creates custom runway well as consumer preference. the winter. she has also begun selling directly to consumers black fedora. - Tom Munro pieces, as well as the everyday woman — whose evolving “My shapes are classic — there is not a lot of stuff on through her new york atelier, with the most devoted clients needs Underwood considers to be her main focus. top, so over time the shapes evolve, proportions evolve purchasing between four and five pieces per season. Underwood–in a burgundy velour hat of — according to fashion,” she noted. Unsurprisingly, Underwood considers herself some- her own design–fills the Bentley with Underwood has endured fashion’s undulating interest thing of a hat evangelist. “if somebody wants a hat, i’m fresh flowers. - David Banks Linda Vojtova in a in headwear firsthand for the past 42 not saying no,” she said, but was years. Millinery — an art form typi- quick to note: “i think we only once jaunty Underwood Cover – Courtesy of Patricia Underwood black fedora. cally most enjoyed by those who find said no to someone who wanted to comfort in dressier attire — was not use hats in a pornographic film. at its peak during the particularly “there are so many great hat- casual seventies, when Underwood dedicated consumers out there who founded her brand (which was wear great clothes and have great nderwood called hats by lipp at the time). style. it’s not what’s on top of the u “the retail environment has hat, it’s what’s underneath that’s im- atricia atricia

changed so much [over time],” she portant for me. how she can be en- p said. “When we started in 1973, hanced and fit hats into her lifestyle. a lot of stores didn’t carry hats “it’s the brain underneath the — stores like lord & taylor had hat that’s important for me and ourtesy of ourtesy eliminated their millinery depart- how the hats go with the clothes.” c er ments. nowadays, you can hardly it’s this symbiotic relationship V find a hat in a store.” between hats and apparel that

Business revved up when the continues to inspire Underwood anks; co b

eighties’ more-is-more formalwear in her collaborations with a roster id V a

styles gained widespread popular- of ready-to-wear designers, which d ity. “in the eighties it was boon has included ralph lauren, Marc time, we had our own department Jacobs, oscar de la renta, donna at Bergdorf Goodman, in those days The book’s cover. Karan and calvin Klein.

we had almost three-quarters of a “i believe hats are made to go nderwood by million dollars there per year — we with clothes,” she said. “each de- u

were just cooking,” she recalled. signer has their own point of view unro; today, Underwood primarily re- for me as an accessories designer to m om

tails in specialty shops like Jenni Kayne in los angeles consider as i create pieces to coincide with their work.” t and Upper class hats in cedarhurst, long island. she that process led to a fall collaboration with ralph has found a niche clientele among orthodox and hasidic lauren, of which Underwood is currently overseeing

Jewish women, who cover their heads out of religious ob- the production. she has also created a hat to sell on a photo by servance. luxury department stores, Bergdorf ’s included, hsn alongside the rizzoli title, which will air on May V

continue to stock Underwood’s designs — particularly for 7 at 10 p.m. Vojto