ARTISTIC PERFUMERY Supplemento Al N

ARTISTIC PERFUMERY Supplemento al N. 2/ 2019 di Export Magazine - Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - - Spedizione in abbonamento Postale 2019 di Export Magazine 2/ Supplemento al N. DCB - Modena comma 1, 1, 46) art. 27/02/2004 n. in L. 353/2003 (conv. D.L.

I Perfume’s Sound

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Senza titolo-3 1 05/04/2019 15:07:03 Perfume’s Sound

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C OMPANY Alyson Oldoini Cover – 4/7 8 Xerjoff Calé II-1 24-25 State of Mind Esxcence 23 26-27 Aulentissima Guudcure III-36 28-29 Angelo Caroli Jovoy Rare Perfumes 11/16 32-33 Rosa Pompeiana MANE 3 34 UERMI S-Strike IV 35 Affinessence Xerjoff 9

E VENTS 20-22 Esxence

On the cover:Alyson Oldoini brand presents I NTERVIEW Bucato Royale & Marsiglia Musk 18-19 Calé: S. Levi

L AUNCH SUPPLEMENTO AL N. 2 ANNO XXXIX 10 Lucien Ferrero Maitre Parfumeur MARCH / APRIL 2019 MARZO / APRILE 2019 BIMONTHLY 17 Carthusia

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE 30 The Flowers of Evil GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO 31 The House of Oud Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena

Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO)

Art Director Teresa Tibaldi

Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: [email protected]

Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso

Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: [email protected]

Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard

Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli - Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov - Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo - Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn

P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

2 PASSION CREATIVITY INNOVATION: A NEW YEAR WITH MANESUCCESSES

MANE perfumers illuminate 2019 with brilliant scents which combine MANE’s purest natural ingredients and innovative captives.

Véronique Nyberg created for TRUSSARDI RIFLESSO BLUE VIBE a dynamic game of contrasts: hot and cold, rational and emotional, elegant and rebel, sweet and bitter. The fragrance opens with inebriant Rum Pure Jungle Essence™, MANE specialty, enveloping Davana Essential Oil and sparkling Yuzu. In the heart notes, Geranium Essential Oil blends with Hazelnut Neo Jungle Essence™ and then encounters the enchanted world of Artemisia Essential Oil. The misterious and intense base notes of Italian Leather Accord, Amberwood and Tobacco Absolute link the fragrance to the heritage of Trussardi brand and to Italian craftmanship tradition.

The brilliant character of FERRAGAMO RINASCIMENTO is reflected in the deep green of the jus created by Alex Lee. The top is a mix of Italian Mandarine Essence, Basil Essence and Green Pepper Neo Jungle Essence™, for a powerful and sparkling impact. The flowery heart feels like a daring bouquet where the green notes of the Lily combine with the Tuberose Absolute magnetism and the delicate voluptuousness of the Florentine Iris Butter. Sandalwood and Orcanox™ add a sensual touch to the base, while the Vetiver makes it vibrant.

The second chapter of DOLCE&GABBANA THE ONLY ONE’s iconic signature of Coffee and Violet is reinterpreted by Violaine Collas with powdery Red Roses, the symbol of love and seduction. Top notes of Red Berries, Pear and Freesia are blended with a heart of Red Rose Superessence, Violet and Coffee, lending a warm and sensuous aura to the scent. Smooth, sweet notes of Tonka Bean and Patchouli in the base amplify its addictive quality, lingering on the skin and demanding your return…

Created by perfumer Julie Massé, the new GIORGIO ARMANI SÌ FIORI EAU DE PARFUM reinterprets the classical SÌ Eau de Parfum Chypre theme with Neroli, blended with top notes of sparkling Green Mandarin and energetic Blackcurrant, the signature ingredient in every SÌ fragrance. With base notes of Vanilla and White Musk, SÌ FIORI has a grace that is both simple and complex, like a flower, from which it takes its inspiration.

Véronique Nyberg and Julie Massé have created HALLOWEEN MAGIC by HALLOWEEN, a fascinating and mysterious Chypre Fruity Elixir. Sparkling on top, the essence of Yellow Mandarin mingles with the juicy tones of Raspberry and a Pear Sorbet and invites us into an acidulated and colorful universe. The heart notes unveil a captivating bouquet with Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Freesia and Pink Peony. In the dry down, an astonishing, attractive and oriental wake breaks out from the depths of the fragrance with hints of Patchouli, Vanilla and Tonka Beans.

Even more glamour and innovation to come… 3 ASK TO HER WHO WASHES AND TO HIM WHO IRONS.

BUCATO ROYALE & MARSIGLIA MUSK DEDICATED TO THOSE WHO LIKE

WEARING THE WHITE SHIRT.

4 ASK TO HER WHO WASHES AND TO HIM WHO IRONS.

BUCATO ROYALE & MARSIGLIA MUSK DEDICATED TO THOSE WHO LIKE

WEARING THE WHITE SHIRT.

5 COMPANYARTISTIC PERFUMERY

ALYSONOLDOINIinterprets the new "bucato italiano"

Alyson Oldoini, in her quality The engraved coat of arms time like no other sensorial data. of industrial designer, projected is the symbol of an history The perfume and the freshness of the personally the dress of the perfumes of noble heritage that embodies laundry hanged in the sun evoke, in line of the Brand founded by herself. the Brand ALYSONOLDOINI. absolute, the concept of cleanness. The sketches related to the The line, completely Made in Italy For this reason ALYSONOLDINI exclusive designs, necessary uses precious materials dedicates two new unisex fragrances to the materialization of the products, that are highly performing. with a name that reveals specifically come from her intuition. The Platinum galvanic of the theiridentity card: Bucato Royale and The attention and the awareness cover of the bottles is matched Marsiglia Musk. A patented formula, of the preciousness of the with the precious packaging unique in its kind, that is introduces perfumes recall the need of the white and black boxes. in the scenery of artistic perfumery. to dress up the bottles according In 2019 the collection of The interpretation of amber and floral to the concept of exclusivity. perfumes enriches with inedited notes belong to Marsiglia Musk, Every detail is studied to be perfect. olfactive notes with unique scent. fruity and aldehyd notes emphasize The atomizer of the perfume is Breathing intensely the fragrance Bucato Royale. realized in order to finely nebulize the scent of cleanness. Two perfumes to be nebulized the fragrance, according to the The most beautiful sensations together, according to the game rules of the artistic perfumery. will appear in the memories. of layering, or to wear singularly, The customized moulds, realized in Dedicated to Her who washes, dedicated to those who Italy, respectively for the 100ml and and to Him who irons. like wearing the white shirt. the 20ml rechargeable format, are Olfactive memory has a unique patented and registered. Luxury, for ability to bring back, when stimulated, Alyson Oldoini, is in the semplicity of a past and deeply positioned in the the line, the high technology of the memories experience: nothing is forms that enclose the exclusivity of more unforgettable than a smell, the fragrances contained in them. it is able to resit to the spoiling of

6 7 COMPANY ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

XERJOFFTruly Italian DNA, recognized all over the world

Who knows whether, in the for natural essences like situations, people, a means to bring words of Fedor Dostoevskij, incense and sandalwood”. back memories and sensations. “Beauty will save the world”? The decision to turn Momo’s passion Despite being so intimate and What is certain is that in the into an elite brand took shape first personal, perfumes let everyone professional career of Sergio Momo in 2005, when he made a trip to get in touch and share emotions beauty has always provided Grasse, the international capital of with anyone close by”. an unfailing reference point. perfumery, in order to attend classes Xerjoff’s founder has turned on perfume creation and on the this approach into reality cultural-historical foundations of thanks to his precious modern perfumery since the 19th C. collections, always evocative He was also introduced to and appealing to all the senses. natural perfumery and distillation The secret of Xerjoff’s style, techniques. Hence was born the recognized and appreciated in over Xerjoff brand, a name that brings 60 countries all over the globe, lies together “Joff” (the nickname in a deep knowledge of the raw given to Sergio Momo by his materials employed and of their maternal grandmother) and specific extraction techniques. “Sir”, the form of address Its international success, used by his London colleagues. however, has in no way Though aethereal, disembodied and overshadowed the Italian DNA evanescent, perfumes exert a strong of the brand, clearly distinguishable and marked presence as soon aso in the meticulous care and they become part of our lives. constant search for innovation. By their own nature, perfumes are capable of conjuring up fantastic scenarios and of firing our imagination by means of Sergio Momo’s interest in the world a sensory “derailment”, of perfumes was neither a matter whereby tones suggest of chance nor a sudden passion. shapes, shapes suggest On the contrary, it was deeply colours, and colours rooted in his own childhood. spaces, in an endless Momo recollects: “I was born play of sinaesthetic into a perfume-loving family. connections. One of my earliest memories This is what most is that of my grandmother attracts Sergio showing me her exclusive Momo: “Of all Lanvin and Coty flacons. the five senses, My parents, too, owned a carefully smell is the most selected collection of perfumes. stimulating from My father was a hard-working a creative point man and used to spend long of view, because periods of time in Eastern countries, perfumes are a means where he discovered a passion to reach out to places,

8 9 launch ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

A new line of fragrances by

KAON launches the LUCIEN new creation of the Maître Parfumeur Lucien Ferrero and will distribute it in Italy and FERRERO on international markets

After having dedicated his life creative freedom, His olfactory The warm virility of Andalusian to perfumery, the Maître Parfumeur signature winds through the spring leather, the honeyed whorls of Lucien Ferrero today launches accents of Par Amour pour Elle, blond tobacco leaves, the vibrant his line of fragrances, the result to the warm virility of tobacco and and luminous colours of oriental of his long experience in fine spices of Par Amour pour Lui to the spices, the timeless nobility of perfumery and his boundless luminous dazzle of Seringa Blanc. precious woods, the masculine passion and devotion for his work. Par Amour pour Elle is a hymn of reassurance of ambery perfumes, Par Amour pour Elle, Par Amour love to her. The spring accents of of the sensual scents of musk and pour Lui and Seringa Blanc are Wild Hyacinth, the bewitching tonka bean… For a fragrance with an his voice, which is strong but aura of Tuberose from the Indies, original composition and a virile and delicate at the same time: the mysterious sensuality of White deliberately determined virile trail. hymns to love and renewal, Jasmine. And the immaculate grace The first sun in the springtime that understood as forces of Orange Blossom and the musky brings a good mood: this is Seringa which move the universe. scents of the powerful erotic trail… Blanc. The luminous aura of white Fragrances which transcend For a fragrance with an olfactory flowers of May explodes in a spring the 12 senses and which, using composition as mysterious as love. renewal of a soft, innocent and the finest perfumed ingredients, The hymn of love to him is sparkling green… For a fragrance design his idea of fragrance in total Par Amour pour Lui. that speaks of happiness.

10 Jovoy Rare Perfumes

If you love perfumes and more specifically artistic perfumes, you probably have The Perfume already heard about Jovoy. Embassy in Paris In Late 2011, a first store was opened. At this time in Paris, it was much more frequent to see mono brand flagship stores opening than multi brands concepts. Less than and now, London, a year later, the main Embassy was opened at 4, Rue de Castiglione and has now become a reference in the much growing microcosm of so called niche perfumery. Dubai, Doha, Jovoy since then has opened a subsidiary in central London at 21 Conduit Street Le Mans…. and successful franchises in Le Mans, France; Dubai and Doha.

Today we would like to focus on Jovoy Qatar who are planning to celebrate the opening of a major store soon in Doha Festival City with 160 sqm entirely dedicated to the crème de la crème of artistic perfumery.

Aside from brands that already signed a strategic partnership with Jovoy in Qatar, such as Fragrance Du Bois, The House of Oud, Jeroboam and more recently the unique Fort and Manle or the irresistible Chris Collins. Some amazing exclusivities are to come soon such as Houbigant signed by the one and only Jean Claude Ellena or again the spectacular Orens Parfums.

Middle eastern countries in general are surprising us every day says Francois Henin, the founder of Jovoy, Qatari for example are traveling a lot. They know the brands, the news, they are very active on social networks and prove a very high appetite to learn and discover. Very frequently I feel as a student learning about perfumes when you listen to some of our best clients! They are highly knowledgeable and extremely curious. This is why our partner is always looking for exclusivities and hard to find niche brands to surprise their highly educated clients.

Jovoy Qatar, please kindly write to Mr Atef Hassan [email protected] atelier Des Ors bois 1920

Atelier Des Ors takes inspiration from the magnificence of Haute Bois 1920 is a brand that expresses the Galardi family’s passion for the Parfumerie and the desire to create sophisticated, alluring and sensual art of perfume – making which is handed down from one generation scents. Craftsmanship, the art of perfumery and the symbolism of gold to another. Passion that livens up, inspires and carefully enriches are key elements of the Atelier Des Ors identity. We put our heritage, the line of over 30 fragrances. Moreover, the raw materials research know-how and a certain French touch into each fragrance. Founded in combines tradition and innovation, for a harmony of unique and 2015, we are based in France and sell our perfumes in over 40 countries. charming olfactory compositions. The story all began in the 1920 when The Atelier Des Ors range is composed of eleven perfumes in two the grandfather Guido Galardi starts experimenting, the first formulas distinct collections. Eight sumptuous fragrances are highlighted in the in his tiny workshop in Florence. He began collecting the “Spigo” Black Collection, while the White Collection showcases an artistic scent (Lavander flowers) which ripens on the Florentine hills. His pursuit triptych inspired by the lifelong search for happiness. At Esxence the mixes different expressive features: essential oils, scented solutions, new Riviera Collection comes to life, consisting of three perfumes with perfumed bags. All these characteristics inspire and shape the brand a radiant, refreshing and captivating signature. The French Riviera is BOttega Italiana Spigo 1920 (BOIS 1920) which acquires a worldwide front and centre in this new trio, highlighting a beguiling region that importance over the years along with recognised rewards. In 2012 has served as an inspiration to artists, writers and musicians for decades. Bois 1920 was selected among the best five olfactory expressions at the Expansive sea views, azure waters, a vivid palette of colours, varied FiFi Awards (the Oscars of perfumery) in New York. Today Bois 1920 natural landscapes and the vestiges of old school glamour are the key represents the added value in the niche perfumery sector playing an to these new fragrances. Imagine picture postcards of a bygone era that active role towards new olfactory versions that need to be explored and promise beauty and sophistication along with eternal days and nights. worn. A role that engages, inspires and harmonizes our senses.

chris collins EVODY

‘Alchemy of Fragrance’ speaks to the divine process of fragrance EVODY Parfums offers a mood perfumery, images, captured moments. creation. Individual notes and ingredients, which singularly have very Authentic olfactory compositions created according to the desires of little value, are carefully hand selected to meld beautifully together the creators. A mother and daughter and their shared passion were the in the creation of the elixir of life. Harlem Nights, Chris’s depiction of commencement of Evody’s exciting adventure. The name conveyed the Harlem after the sun goes down, tells a story of romance and mystery. idea of evodia, the “tree of a hundred thousand flowers” evoking the It’s warm and seductive with notes of boozy rum, dirty patchouli, hundred thousand scents yet to be created. Searching for new creative sandalwood, vanilla and orris. Renaissance Man, explores the rebirth talents, Régine and Cérine opened their first prestigious “niche” and revival of man; the perpetual evolution of humankind. It’s manly perfumery in 2006 in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés which they and aromatic with notes of spicy ginger, animalic honey, sandalwood, called Evody. They were the first in Paris to propose rare, intimate leather and smoky tobacco. The Danse Sauvage, spicy and sexy tells and precious fragrances. Sharing this magical and addictive olfactory the story of Josephine Baker performances in 1920s Paris. It’s very environment, they gradually dreamt of creating their own fragrances. seductive and spontaneous, with notes of boozy cognac, black pepper, The perfumes that they create reflect their personality, their moods and chili, plum and cedar wood. Although initially created for men, his desires… Encouraged by their clients, the first perfumes created by fragrances are universal and speak to women as well who love bold, Régine and Cérine rapidly became best sellers in the boutique. And so daring scents. Each scent of his fragrance collection is 50ml in size and was born EVODY Parfums retail for $175-$265. franck muller perfume L’Arc Perfumes

We are delighted to be L’Arc Parfums is a niche perfume house rooted in the love of art and launching Franck Muller travel. The arch, a structural element that spans an opening between Perfume, bringing two points, illustrates the ambition of the house: each of its fragrances together two Masters is an invitation to cross over to another shore, like a wondrous olfactory of their respective odyssey. It is also the story of a Master Architect-Perfumer, who left fields, the union of the France to reach South America through bewildering travels in search most creative worlds’ for knowledge, different cultures and artistic exchanges. We discover of Haute Horlogerie how on the road, his passion for architecture will be matched by that and Haute Parfumerie. of perfumes. A man of art and perfumery, brand founder Fadi Al A fitting partnership Haddad established L’Arc Parfums in Grasse, a perfume house that which also marked the creates fragrances inspired from the memoirs of the Master Architect- 25th Anniversary of Perfumer, and beyond. Julien Rasquinet, Jean-Claude Astier, Marc- unending development, Daniel Heimgartner and Christian Carbonnel, took on the task to give craftmanship and life to the vision of L’Arc Parfums into two complementary collections: innovation and truly VOYAGE ODYSSEY & MEMOIRE ODYSSEY. represents the identity of Franck Muller.

MORESQUE Nobile 1942

After evoking elegance, charm, Nobile 1942 is a brand with a long history behind it. A story influenced creativity and splendor through by events, experiences, choices moved by love and passion. From the White, Black, Art and Umberto to Massimo, three family generations. Care and love for detail, Gold Collection fragrances, pride of presenting a product with purely Italian characteristics all MORESQUE discloses its secret over the world. The fragrances contain essential oils that are obtained Collection, the prequel to its from natural distillation, existing creations. The SECRET filtering and maceration COLLECTION is the result of the processes. The use of very first research MORESQUE natural raw materials is undertook. It represents both the the basis of Nobile 1942's foundation of the brand story and creations and each product the prologue to MORESQUE’s is marked with a seal to olfactory narration so far guarantee its originality. unrevealed to the public. With their ancestral and timeless accents, the Bottling, labeling and bouquets of the SECRET COLLECTION announce the alliance between packaging are handmade, East and West, and reveal precious ingredients combined in a new way. following a traditional The five compositions retrace the ancient perfume trade routes and each italian procedure. The one narrates a story intimately tied to the place which the fragrance is Whole fragrances lines is dedicated to. The scent of some designed following our of the key ingredients won’t values and our coherence. stay unnoticed: In the heart of These are our strongholds JASMINISHA’s bouquet, Indian that let us win in 2015 The Jasmine is that of Moreta (White Fifi Award in Russia, with Collection): persuasive, sensual, the fragrance Rudis, and irresistible. The SECRET a nomination at Art & COLLECTION is a tribute to Olfaction Award in 2016 the story of MORESQUE, but with our Fougere Nobile. also serves as an introduction In the picture on the side you’ll see our novelty for the Premium line: to those who discover the brand Shamal - A night in which blows the desert's wind. for the first time. noble royal OLFACTIVE STUDIO

The Noble Royale perfume collection Olfactive Studio is an encounter between was created as a mark of respect for contemporary artistic photography and the royal houses and traditions of perfumery; between the eye and the nose. the past. Each fragrance expresses This is the first time ever that perfumers the character of the most charismatic have teamed up with photographers to representatives of the Russian royal draw inspiration from their oeuvres. families, with different principles They sense the images to capture their and tastes. We created not only essence. Olfactive Studio has designed aromatic portraits of people, but an exceptional olfactory world with a also an aromatic picture of that time powerful and distinctive personality; a and the life that these noblemen world of intuitions and emotions; a world led. Truly royal luxury parks and designed for women, men, and all others. greenhouses, baths and boudoir, Perfumes are angels; they have no gender, clothes and jewelry, porcelain and but they have a soul. SEPIA, Olfactive Studio's new collection is born: fabrics. Exquisitely dressed leather, six Extrait de Parfums whose precious and sophisticated compositions the softest suede and gorgeous furs. highlight the aura of exceptional and highly concentrated raw Transparent batiste, sparkling satin, leather slipping on silk and caressing materials (20%). Each Extrait de Parfum in the Sepia collection preludes velvet. Fragrant tobacco, fine wines, delicate chocolate and fantastic with a raw material or an accord. The first trio created by perfumer desserts. Everything made for royal families was distinguished by the Bertrand Duchaufour and inspired by the Land Art landscapes by highest quality, refinement, nobility, brought pleasure and satisfied the photographer Martin Hill: Vanilla Shot, Leather Shot and Chypre most subtle taste. Now we want to give our contemporaries this luxury Shot. and refinement: our fragrances will make you feel like a special royal The second trilogy is the blood, for which the most precious and beautiful is intended. “I was masterpiece of perfumer fortunate enough to work with the best team and perfumers. We used Dominique Ropion. an exclusive sustainable ingredients and accords. We created a very Inspired by three Roberto sensual and unique character for each fragrance. The definition of a good Greco photographs, this fragrance is the one that strikes you like a flash as soon as you smell it. For floral triptych brings me the best one is the perfume which has no pre-existing world and we together olfactory and tried the best creations attached to our concept and emperor’s character. visual universes and We expect you to shore up all your senses with our collection and feel in features Irish Shot, Violet love with it.” ~Olga Korchagina-Yurchenko – the Creator. Shot and Rose Shot.

Orens PUREDISTANCE MASTER PERFUMES

A mesmerizing story of perfume Puredistance is one of the most exclusive Perfume Houses in the world and travel finds a way to turn the that offers only the highest quality Perfume Extrait. Our Master Perfume lives of four persons strange to each Collection consists of nine perfumes made by Master perfumers in other. Orens was the common word London, Paris and New York. We are one of the last well known niche on their bucket lists. Alleged to be a Perfume Houses that is still fully independent and 100% privately secret garden, Orens was known for owned. This gives us the freedom to use the best ingredients and its astonishing columns, rare flowers materials while selling only to a very limited amount of perfumeries. and mystical plants. To uncover this If you are searching for a truly exclusive Perfume House it will be our magical place became their quest pleasure to show you the timeless beauty of our collection. This year, through hints discovered in the most we have launched our 9th Master Perfume - Puredistance AENOTUS. unexpected places or stories from AENOTUS is a perfume that, despite its high percentage of perfume oil different encounters. They were eager (48%!), is not loud – and after an intense and fresh opening – transforms to share their findings with the world into a delicate scent, very close to the skin. Only those dear and near combining their know- how and will be close enough to enjoy its subtle and intriguing character. If you passion to recreate “Orens” are curious about our AENOTUS, we welcome you to try it in our stand! in a bottle. Orens is an homage to an adventure pursuing a passion for beauty and perfumery. The metallic carved tube, a unique object, represents the Orens pillars and is meant to be a collector’s item. The patterns are inspired by clues gathered during the four travelers’ adventure and each represent a place and time where memories were made. Orens, create your own garden. Plume Impression s. Strike

Plume Impression is an artistic "I’m S., nice to meet you!" S. is a niche perfume brand expressing real woman characterized by an the duality of a feather, being intriguing personality. She bold, fragile yet very strong. Plume but it's easy to make her the frailest. Impression stands for freedom, She is mysterious, but sometimes sophistication and the lightness even a predictable woman. She is of being. The creator, Sabine an ambitious woman, held back by Schaffer realised that we can see her fears. She is a dreamer whose fragrances as much as we can rationality can almost clip her wings. smell them. Each scent forms S. has always lived in close contact images in our minds, tells us with the world of fragrances. Her stories, takes us places. As Sabine grandfather, Aurelio Cerizza, opened puts it, “Scents form beautiful t he fi rst laborator y to c reate f rag ra nce s memories and beautiful memories want to be treasured. Plume in 1946. He soon became very famous Impression combines those cherished moments along with our favourite in Italy and Europe and his little scent in a beautifully crafted picture frame”. The Elusive Spirit Collection: laboratory became a company. It handed down from one generation to Murmure d’Eté - Eclat de Joie - Etat de Grâce. Delicate yet strong, the another, perfected and enriched by the work of younger hands that have fragrances in this collection take you on a journey of sensuality and reinvented it until today. Unique and weird fragrances, interpreting the grace carried by your sides of S.' personality. S. STRIKES THE NOTES embodies the values wonderful imagination. of the family, combined with fashion and Italian modern design. An Royal Spirit Collection: homage to Italy, where Lady Fashion finds an important home. Rivalité Impériale – Dualité Magnifique – Elégance Cuirée. Wonderfully intense, the fragrances in this collection take you on a mesmerizing journey of mysterious luxury.

Shalini strangelove

Shalini is from the world of Haute Couture; a world of luxurious fabrics strangelove's beguiling and time honored craftsmanship with a reverence for design. Shalini as fragrances provoke passion creative director desired to bring the same sense of luxury and beauty amongst all who experience of Haute Couture to perfume when she created Shalini Parfum. Haute them. deadofnight, Parfumerie. The vision behind Shalini Parfum is to create something meltmyheart, silencethesea of beauty, of lasting value and of the ethereal that will stand the test and lostinflowers form of time. The Modern Classics. Through the reflection of luxurious strangelove’s celebrated couture and infused with the essence of luxury, Shalini uses the most collection of lush, sensual precious oils, florals and notes of the natural world for our parfums. pure perfume oils and eaux Shalini has created a collection of Pure Parfums, each presented in de parfum. Combining the an exquisite Lalique crystal flacon conveying the inspiration of the splendor of oud with other fragrance - The Grand Cru. A beautiful collection of Glass bottles is rare, precious ingredients, also available. Our parfums Shalini, Jardin Nocturne and Amorem these coveted fragrances have Rose are created by Master Perfumer Maurice Roucel and are in the attracted a cult following for Pure Parfum concentration. The parfums are listed amongst the top their originality. Their special ten most luxurious fragrances in the world and continue to be desired alchemy creates an enduring worldwide. Amorem Rose is currently a Finalist for The Fragrance and deeply personal Foundation Awards 2019. effect. Elizabeth Gaynes, founder of strangelove, works closely with creative director Helena Christensen and master perfumer Christophe Laudamiel to create strangelove's distinctive collection. strangelove's perfumes encourage an intimate ritual that enhances one's appreciation of fragrance and its mystical allure. Thameen Chabaud

Thameen, meaning precious, has been inspired by the world’s most Nature and authenticity, enchanting jewels and scents, and the colourful tales behind them. light and elegance. Chabaud As symbols of status, religion, wealth, beauty and love, both jewellery perfumes was founded in 2002 and fragrance have enjoyed a long and close relationship. From ancient and its creations show the heart tribes to haute couture, they have both been central to civilisation. of Montpellier unique identity, Thameen marries the two. Thameen is a niche, English fragrance brand, the sunniest mediterranean which combines Eastern opulence with Western refinement. Thameen city in France and cradle of is born from an obsession with beautiful fragrance oils, teamed with french perfumery since the the vision to construct elegant, original and contemporary fragrances. XIV century. Today, Chabaud Each central ingredient has been painstakingly sourced to ensure that collection include luxury eaux it is of the most exquisite quality and has been combined to create de parfum, eaux de toilette, precious Extrait Parfums of very high concentration. interior fragrances and candles, The perfume structures are pure bringing forth an entire universe and simple to let these rare of emotions. Our fragrances are ingredients sing, each now available across more than applied with elegance twenty countries worldwide and refinement to from department stores to delight selective perfumeries and we also design customized scents. In the fragrance house of Chabaud we still connoisseurs believe that a great perfume around the always has a beautiful story to world. tell. If a scent makes your heart beat it shows a desire, a dream, an absence. With its evocative power, the past is reinvented, dreams of the future are conceived, an idea is shared. We invite you to discover our latest collection at Esxence, stand BF11 or visit us online at: chabaudparfum.com

THoO

THoO is the new collection from THE HOUSE OF OUD, constituting its artistic exploration. THoO is setting out on its journey through the contemporary world, cross- fertilising between art, styles, painting, beauty, nature and life. As it blends with today’s contemporary, it casts a light on creative contagion, its new direction. THoO @Esxence 2019, for the new, fifth fragrance, chooses the Patisserie and senses merge in a delicious and unforgettable journey. Keep Glazed, fragrance of THoO’s new olfactory division, was born in collaboration with Ksenia Penkina, renowned Canadian Patisserie, characterized by rigorous and high manual skills and the histrionic ARTISTIC founder of the brand, Andrea Casotti. “The perfect recipe? Method, sensitivity and PERFUMERY attention to the ingredients", Andrea Casotti believes that there are many similarities between the two spheres, each Confectioner guards the secrets of his recipes as any master Perfumer; both turn olfactory suggestions into mind sensations. www.thoo.it ARTISTIC PERFUMERY LAUNCH TUBEROSA BY

CARTHUSIAan intense and sensual floriental

The Capri-based fragrance company presents a new fragrance which expresses its idea of Spring

The flower of the same name as the fragrance takes the starring role in the composition: noble and charismatic, it is given a creamy and enveloping interpretation, surrounded by the solar carnality of Ylang Ylang with vibrant notes of Elemi and Cinnamon, taking on the colours of Plum. In its trail there are the deep and tangible notes of Vetiver, Vanilla, Ambroxan and Musk. A soliflor - the first in the collection of Carthusia fragrances, rich in facets, where the main note is supported by an architecture which exalts it, enriching it with many other iridescent facets. The composition by Luca Maffei Capri is one of those magical places in the way most congenial to it, is translated into an intense with a unique beauty, an air of remaining faithful to its playful and sensual florioriental, freedom, joie de vivre and where the spirit, where the olfactory open and luminous, senses are continuously enchanted, imprinting of its roots emerges in perfect Carthusia style. including the sense of smell. with an outstanding personality. The tuberose lives with a new light. It is impossible not to associate Capri As Luca Maffei, the nose It is no longer the lunar light with a rich perfumed impression, of the fragrance said at the press which, precisely because its scent which mixes in the memory the conference of the presentation becomes more intense after scents of the flowers and typical of Tuberosa, “for the first time, sundown, contributed to its fame vegetation, warmed by the sun that this fragrance is not citrus-based, and popularity, especially in Victorian brings out their enveloping harmony. but still keeps all the DNA times, but is that of the sun in the For the first time in its 71 years, of the legendary island of Capri springtime on Capri which once again Carthusia interprets one and the Mediterranean-ness of comes into flower, about to live of the iconic flowers of perfumery: the brand: Tuberosa is an exploration a new season, new experiences, the tuberose and it does so of a new olfactory family.“ new loves and new emotions.

17 INTERVIEW ARTISTIC PERFUMERY LIBERA MENTE by Calé Fragranze d’Autore The Essence of Essentiality

INTERVIEW WITH SILVIO LEVi, CEO

Libera Mente, like the other EM: Can you describe fragrances in the collection, the creative encounter will also be accompanied between Maurizio Cerizza by an original piece of music. and yourself for the We are working with the development of the fragrance? composer Philip Abussi SL: We were working and of course a Tibetan on another project when gong will have a role, he made me smell some albeit a small one, interesting ingredients. in the composition.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: The new fragrance Libera Mente evokes a garden in its essence, can you tell us something more about this place? SILVIO LEVI: Originally it was what are known as Zen gardens that inspired me. Their correct name is Karesansui, which means dry garden, because there is no water but it is evoked by pebbles, islands and bridges over the sand, but precisely its constantly evoked absence leads you to estrange yourself from what is tangible to reflect by sitting down to meditate, in peacefulness and without being distracted by your surroundings. Imagining such a garden in a chaotic city is like having a peaceful and quiet island where we can dedicate to ourselves the luxury of thinking about what really counts for us.

18 ARTISTIC PERFUMERY INTERVIEW

as a catalyst to make us think of the essence of things, being at peace with ourselves and making others understand that we do not want to disguise ourselves, we are what we show, we are attentive to the details and small subtleties that make experiences and things unique. We observe the world around us with Libera Mente, without preconceived ideas and with the most disarming intellectual honesty. Those who wear this fragrance/non-fragrance, with a discreet presence, but We decided to try out some the absence/presence of water In actual fact the perception definitely remarkable persistence, combinations to represent which, with the essence of Spirulina is a compact, soft, harmonious is someone who loves life, nature, an idea of dryness and welcome or blue-green algae, obtained by and positive ensemble, the essence of things and purity with a brief in which cherry molecular distillation, took on and there are no clearly without frills, someone who still blossom, cedar, ambery notes a perfect connotation for me. identifiable protagonists but smiles at the rain, stops and looks and the flow of water between A group of top notes, apparently it is truly a choral expression. at a flower growing in the cracks sand and granite had a role. discordant, of rhubarb, ginger, of the asphalt, melts when they The idea of Libera Mente had bitter orange and hints of marine EM: How do you imagine see a grandfather holding his not yet completely matured. notes actually create a curious the woman and the man grandson’s hand and is not The tests did not convince me and unusual harmony, which who will wear Libera Mente? afraid of measuring up to anyone, at all and instead of continuing leads to a beating heart of very SL: The choice of the name because they are aware of their to modify them, I asked him delicate floral notes and base was also work of simplification. qualities but above all, they know to start all over from the notes between the earth and I thought of communicating the their limits just as well and have no beginning again and we greatly the sea, united by a thread evocation of water but in actual shame in admitting that they still took it apart to evoke abstraction, of black tea leaves. fact this absence/presence acts have a lot to learn from life. C.S.

Listen to the scented music of Calé Fragranze d’Autore in a multisensorial journey between hearing and sense of smell.

19 EVENTSARTISTIC PERFUMERY

After celebrating its tenth anniversary last year, Esxence – The Scent of Excellence, the international appointment with Artistic Perfumery, returns from 25 to 28 April, ready to face new challenges and welcome the international community of business operatives and aficionados.

More than 200 perfumery houses will be under one roof from 25-28 April, showcasing the best of original production

The Mall and Villa Quarzo, in the heart of Milan’s renovated Porta Nuova district, will be the venue for more than 200 perfumery houses, featuring both well-established ESXENCE names and newcomers. Thanks to the experts on the the scent of excellence returns Technical Committee, who select participants on the basis of the to Milan with the world’s quality of the proposals, criteria of distribution and coherence best artistic perfumery of their concepts, Esxence offers only the best of original production. This year, the extensive spaces but also the United States and the Inspiration has in common the two available in The Mall and Villa Quarzo Middle East, a trend that confirms the Italian words for inspiring and inhaling, will be hosting the Main Brands role played by Esxence as a prestigious which have a strong active bond when (45% of the brand list) and the setting for launching a name on the we relate to a perfume, plunging us sector’s up-and-coming new international scene. into a flow of emotions, thoughts names (55% of the total). This year’s concept is Inspiration Flow, and memories. Inspiration Flow is the The majority fo these (some 80%) a title that expresses the essence of impulse that enables mind and body come from abroad, primarily Europe, the event and of Artistic Perfumery. to conceive and achieve something

20 ARTISTIC PERFUMERY EVENTS

develop several billion euros of turnover The elegant Villa Quarzo, very and give a stimulus to brands that close to The Mall, will be hosting keep faith with their original mission this year’s inaugural session of and/or are extremely innovative the Experience Lab. The first event and committed to research. dedicated to the most important

new: it is the instant when thoughts are clear and flow smoothly in the right direction; it is the moment when we experience pleasure at what we do. Different manifestations of creative excellence come together, driven by the same passion and involved in the same activity, focused on the present and at the same time projected towards a shared sense of growth.

independent beauty brands together with the absolute peak of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, which already numbers more than 30 brands this year. The Experience Lab is the first Italian B2B and B2C event where visitors can discover the most interesting new ideas being developed on the beauty scene at world level, a workshop of ideas where the sector’s operatives can learn all about the most innovative advances. The venue itself features wide open spaces, plate glass windows, gardens and terraces,

Esxence is where artistic perfumery shares its energy and its inspirations. Regarding Artistic Perfumery as business, at world level, the share of the alcohol-based perfumery market enjoyed by Artistic Perfumery as a whole is approximately 10%. In Italy, the total turnover for artistic perfumery exceeded €250 million in 2017, corresponding to 12% of the turnover in alcohol-based perfumery and 2.5% of the total Italian beauty business. As this sector has the potential to reach 2% of the beauty business turnover in every country, it has a real chance to

21 EVENTSARTISTIC PERFUMERY

with natural light pouring into the villa’s four floors, putting the focus on the values of the brands that are the unquestioned stars of this event. The first edition of Milano Fragrance Week is also to be launched from 22 to 28 April. Its aim is to promote olfactory culture and interest in perfume as an art form, while exploring fertile terrains in such fields as art, music and technology. Events will take place throughout the city and will focus on Inspiration Flow, the flow of creativity and inspiration that spreads out from Esxence to encompass the whole city, with exhibitions, installations, travelling workshops, concerts issues to be discussed will be a virtual interactive workshop and interactive events. the analysis of foreign markets, that can be attended both at Esxence Esxence’s aim of promoting olfactory such as the USA and Germany, the and by 300 people on web links culture continues with a full calendar effects of artificial intelligence on all over the world. For the fifth of meetings, round tables, workshops the market for niche perfumery and year running, Esxence will host the and presentations, with international the role played by social media. announcement of the finalists in experts, scholars and researchers, this There will also be a webinar the Art & Olfactuion Awards, the year including Michael Edwards and organized with Les Parfumables, prestigious acknowledgement for Annick Le Guérer, while the main and the young perfumeur Alex Lee: independent artistic perfumery. 2019 EVENTS CALENDAR

THURSDAY, APRIL 25th FRIDAY, APRIL 26th SATURDAY, APRIL 27th

h. 11.00 a.m. Olfactive lecture h. 9.30 a.m. Panel h. 10.00 a.m. Lecture The circle of lost or rare raw materials Whispers about Artistic Perfumery: the online From niche to niche: with Bernard Bourgeois - Perfumer of Osmothéque audiences perception the evolution of French perfumery by Silvio Levi, co-founder of Esxence with Michael Edwards, fragrance expert h. 12.00 p.m. Workshop Designing customer experience using the senses h. 12.00 p.m. Presentation h. 11.00 a.m. Talk with Marta Siembab - Senselier, independent smell expert Al & Future of Fragrance Being landsacape - Re-connecting with Olivia Jezler - Future of Smell h. 1.00 p.m. with nature through smell Announcement of the finalists h. 2.00 p.m. Conference with Ernesto Collado Sala, perfumer of the Art & Olfaction Awards Among Greece, Egypt and Rome: with Saskia Wilson Brown - Founder of the the ‘scented cities’ in the ancient world h. 12.00 p.m. Workshop Institute for Art and Olfaction (Los Angeles) with Giuseppe Squillace, University of Calabria The German Market: shedding light on a European enigma h. 2.30 p.m. Workshop h. 3.00 p.m. Workshop with Bodo Kubartz, director of Passion and Consulting Les parfums qui soignent Social Media for niche brands: do’s & don’ts de l’antiquité jusqu’à aujourd’hui with Merav Vanounou, founder & creative h. 2.00 p.m. Workshop with Annick Le Guérer, anthropologist, philosopher director of LYP Beauty Free Inspiration and writer and Mariateresa Z. Marsi, psychologist and h. 4.30 p.m. Panel by Mouillettes & Co psychotherapist, brand consultant The artistic perfumery market in the USA with Emanuela Rupi and Sara Ravo h. 4.00 p.m. Talk with Giuliana Simona Abaton, Do experts matter? Experimentation, expertise, CEO at Abaton Corporation h. 4.00 p.m. Webinar and craft culture in the digital age FragranceXperience with Eddie Bulliqi, independent Perfume with Alex Lee, perfumer writer and Saskia Wilson Brown, founder for info and registrations: [email protected] of the Institute for Art and Olfaction h. 5.00 p.m. Talk Why do the Chinese like Osmanthus? 22 with Chi Wai Tang, Journalist nameTAG

The Art Perfumery’s Event

11th EDITION

inspire create express yourself www.esxence.comQ Q ORGANIZED BY EQUIPE 23 EQUIPE INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COMPANY ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

STATEwhen fragrance OF encounters MIND tea

State of Mind is the creation Associating two typically of the French-Russian Catherine French specialities Laskine-Balandina, in conjunction - gastronomy and artistic with the tea sommelier Olivier Scala perfumery - State of Mind and the perfumer Karine Dubreuil. associates the experiences of smell and taste

The tea and fragrance ceremonies of State of Mind go far beyond that, appealing to all five senses, as well as a search for harmony, which is the brand’s essential value. Each “state of mind” finds its expression in tea, fragrances, home fragrance and a candle.

Catherine’s goal was to create a brand that was not like any other on the market, with an idea of innovation and the creation of a complete experience combining all the senses, but above all those of taste and smell, with perfumed tea of the highest quality corresponding perfectly to fragrances. The name of the brand – State of Mind evokes the delicate harmony between taste and fragrance which creates a joint pleasure, The four basic flavours – sweet, salty, bitter and acid – are completed by retro-nasal smelling which is the phenomenon that allows us to have all the nuances of flavour.

24 ARTISTIC PERFUMERY COMPANY

All the products in the State of Mind collection are works of art; from the emblematic tea box with refined finishing inside and outside like a Chinese lacquer contains the bottle of perfume, but it can also be used to burn the candle or as a diffuser. Special attention has been given to the bottle with its 25 manual operations of polishing, its shape which recalls the Art Deco style and its surprise at the bottom with a symbol of the duality of Soul and Spirit, Masculine and Feminine. State of Mind has a worldwide presence: from France to Lebanon, from Italy to Iraq, from Poland to Singapore and from Spain to Saudi Arabia, spreading harmony and pleasurable experiences conjured up by tea and fragrance.

25 COMPANY ARTISTIC PERFUMERY AULENTISSIMA AulentissimA, a work of art in sixteen fragrances to exalt the beauty of the ethereal. AulentissimA, between magic, mystery and legend, is inspired by th an ancient 16 century recipe book, "Notandissimi Secreti de l'arte Profvmatoria", the first book in Western history on fragrances and cosmetics in the times of the rulers of the city The atelier Aulentissima has opened Not only a precious collection of Naples and of the Kingdom. in Via Calabritto 25, in the part of the of fragrances, but a space for city devoted to luxury fashion in the olfactory art where the world heart of the Naples of the elite. of fragrances reigns supreme It is a boutique of niche craftsmanship, in the very heart of Naples where as well as finding the collection of AulentissimA fragrances, it is possible to take part in training courses Here you can create your very and meet perfumeurs, great artists own fragrance, translating your and major international noses. personality and mood into liquid form: a fragrance that reveals your very essence. A fragrance can be made to measure for you, to fill you with pleasure and reflect the infinite facets of your personality.

Giovanni Festa, eclectic since a child and with great aspirations, explores the worlds of spices and essences becoming a master of the art of the nose, creator of fantastic masterpieces, the result of magic alchemies that capture and dominate odours. He brings to the light fragrances such as Osan'g di Menditto Rosa, a story between the sacred and the profane and a finalist at Art and Olfaction, he creates masterpieces such as "La Rosa Antica di Pompei", an artistic/ cultural project which combines the story of Pompeii brought back to life by the Antique Rose. A charismatic man who through his fragrances declaims sophisticated, refined, learned and sacred poems that exalt in Renaissance or baroque dress the richness of his heart and the positivity of his thought. The vibrant notes of his compositions become themselves instruments of poetic enquiry, not only of the sense of smell but of thought.

26 Art Perfumery

Tailor Made Perfume

www.aulentissima.com 27 COMPANY ARTISTIC PERFUMERY ANGELO

CAROLIthe spectacular celebration of the self

A worldwide expert in fitness, Raw materials in warm and Angelo Caroli presents a new sensual tones such as Cistus line of exclusive fragrances labdanum and the absolute A collection of fragrances based on a philosophy of global of Tobacco Powder. with an innovative and well-being for the individual. Strong and determined accords luxurious philosophy here can create harmonious Between myth and reality, these blends, elegant and highly refined An ingredient whose secret notes made for “COLOURFUL facets able to interpret and charm is related to the cultural COLLECTION” are designed to enhance the preciousness of tradition and Middle Eastern craft recreate the magic alchemy the new COLOURFUL Collection. and whose rich and sophisticated among the finest natural ingredients The new line of fragrances essence was married here, by the and the ethereal vibrations “BLACK COLLECTION”, is inspired skill of the Grc perfumers, with other that they are able to bring forth. by one of the finest and most fine natural ingredients to recreate Precious exotic ingredients like refined raw materials in the world an olfactory journey into the secret Indian incense and Sandalwood. of perfumery: OUD WOOD. history of irresistible Arab passions.

28 ARTISTIC PERFUMERY COMPANY

These evocative and precious Amor Nero is for rebels with a strong The collection is completed by fragrances made from natural and passionate temperament. Olio emozionale, an oil perfume ingredients which convey Sette Agrumi, a citrus-bsaed that affects the emotional sphere. the pleasure of wearing them on fragrance, has been composed for It contains precious essences from the the skin, express the new concept aesthetes in search of the absolute. East and West that together give rise of Liquid Beauty capable of giving Viola is a fragrance that to rich notes and emotional vibrations. appeal and harmony to the body. can give a welcoming and The oil texture offers great persistence. With this innovative line, harmonizing wellness with It can also be used on the Angelo transmits all his passion style, elegance and sensuality. hair and is suitable at any age. for beauty and well-being by mixing Magnifico Patchouli is an aromatic The Emozioni collection is a journey different ingredients which are fragrance with meditative and towards the imagination through transformed into perfect balances. heady scents, designed for new sensory territories and These seven fragrances and a free and spontaneous spirit. new olfactory experiences. a fragrant oil for body and hair, This aromatic chypre will appeal For Angelo Caroli, perfume goes a blend of sensual experiences to both men and women. beyond the physical sphere and which bring back to life Tuberosa Nera has an attractive also affects our “sixth sense”, the unique sensations and resolute personality that the emotional sphere. of artisanal processes and loves to make its mark with “Therefore my fragrances have been a careful selection of ingredients. a sexy and timeless approach. developed to penetrate through the Liquirizia Nera is a perfume with Innamorata is a floral/musky skin and give one and positive energy a strong personality, representing fragrance, for a man or a to the mind, restoring the whole the search for a challenging note. woman that is hard to forget. body to its perfect equilibrium.”

ANGELO CAROLI SKINCARE LINE The whole SKINCARE line is a totalizing experience which affects all five senses, goes beyond the physical sphere and also affects the “sixth sense”, i.e. the emotional sphere. Therefore al the products have been developed to penetrate through the skin and give new and positive energy to the mind, restoring balance to the whole organism.

29 launch ARTISTIC PERFUMERY THE FLOWERS

OFa mysterious EVIL collection of fragrances

The project finds its creative THE FRAGRANCES expression in a mysterious collection The fragrances evoke the of fragrances, all deeply inspired concepts of complexity by Charles Baudelaire’s volume of and mutual influence, poetry “The Flowers of Evil” and ecstasy and torment. with the same desire to shock and With their their complex, the same mysticism, the fragrance many-sided structure intends to “extract beauty from evil”. they seek above all to mystify Massimiliano Minorini is and capture the senses. the creator of the brand. Five floral fragrances with pure, Iris and heliotrope reveal A creative talent in the beauty & reassuring notes, each influencing powdered secrets, perfumes sector for twenty-five the other to create discordant enfolding the wearer years, he has a strong, multi-faceted harmonies and daring melodies. in enigmatic timbersilk character, sensitive and non-conformist. Unexpected olfactory notes and precious ambroxan. His career is made up of grand that first unsettle, and "Tubéreuse Maléfique": gestures and passions, rejection then release their full impact, an extreme, sensual tuberose and comebacks, successes conquering and reconquering - a deep hit of ylang-ylang and a few falls he bounced back with their ambivalence and amber overlays vibrations from immediately to live life and emotional charge. of bergamot and petit grain. and its challenges to the full. Luca Maffei is an up-and-coming The vetiver sublimates master maître parfumeur. the animal hints and mysterious Young, curious and experimental, touches of black amber. The DESIGN he has interpreted the complexity "Iris Obscur": an iris as dark as The bottle design is minimalist of this new creative challenge the soil into which it plunges its and perfectly interprets the with flair and passion. roots, enhanced by carrot seed, contradictions of the fragrance. "Rose Narcotique": a dark, cedar, ambrarome and musk. It fuses diverse elements that together deep rose of patchouli Cool touches of cardamom create an enchanting harmony. and guaiacum wood, sublimate the hot, shocking pimento. The clear black bottle with a soft, agarwood and styrax. "Ylang Addictif": xarnal, sinuous logo is contrasted by the Aromatic notes of calamus inebriating and wrapped humble, porous terracotta. and spicy touches of cumin in a profound, enigmatic blend The clean, crisp lines create create a hypnotic effect. of incense and opoponax. elegance from their essentiality. "Violette Lisergique": a black violet Bitter hints of artemisia and soft with hallucinogenic undertones of breath of cashmeran light a new wormwood and crunchy rhubarb. flame among the musk notes.

30 ARTISTIC PERFUMERY LAUNCH

The new fragrance from The House of Oud is a sweet temptation for the palate and for the nose

KEEPwhen the art ofGLAZED pastry meets the art of perfumery

Keep Glazed, the new fragrance from texture with lively notes even more meaningful products The House of Oud, is the result of the and irresistible ingredients. of a sweet and scented blend. collaboration between the brand’s Keep Glazed opens with Creating this collection with founder, Andrea Casotti and Canadian the perfect union of ice lemon and The House of Oud is a fresh breath patisserie chef Ksenia Penkina. juicy mango, enveloped by a heart of to me and my Art, presenting the According to Casotti, both figures, cream and coconut, crunchy thanks world of tomorrow for both of us.” the perfumeur and the pastry chef, to a delicious ginger crumble. have many traits in common. The composition ends with a note “The perfect recipe? of fruity musk and precious woods. Method, sensitivity and The bottle is like a vortex attention to the ingredients” of rotation of gestures, is applicable to both spheres. a kaleidoscope of shapes This fragrance inebriates us with and colours that stimulate the bold and delicious scent of the fantasy and taste buds, tropical fruit, through ingredients where the senses merge like Mango, Coconut, Ginger and on a delicious and Lemon. Thanks to Ksenia Penkina’s unforgettable journey. inspiration, skilfully interpreted by For Ksenia Penkina, Anfrea Casotti and synthesized by the the experience was novel creative genius of Cristian Calabrò, and exciting: “Have you ever the result is like the experience of a heard of this idea before? sweet summer tasting in preview, a I haven’t and it makes it live, temptation for the palate and the modern and refreshing! nose, a “patisserie” fragrance. Patisserie & Perfume coming The scent is lively and solar, in an together nin exquisite collaboration. iconic hand-painted bottle, that Beyond my excitement to be a part suggests with its soft colours and of merging two respected worlds original tones, a fresh olfactory and visions into one, creating

31 COMPANYARTISTIC PERFUMERY

ROSAPompeii comes backPOMPEIANA to life in the fragrance of its ancient roses

fragrances. The idea of bringing the ancient r ose of Pompeii back to life belongs to a retired engineer, Michele Fiorenza, who worked in Pompeii for many years. He commissioned the research from the Department of Agriculture Michele Fiorenza, creator of the brand, with Michele Borgongino of the Archaeological Park of Pompeii, of the University of Naples, and the head gardener, Michele Cesarano directed by Prof. Matteo Lorito, coordinated by Luigi Frusciante, professor of Agricultural Genetics and Gaetano Di Pasquale, professor of Archeobotany.

There’s a piece of the ancient city of Pompeii, buried by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79AD that is coming back to life, thanks to the reconstitution The rose plants, identified through in the laboratory of the ancient roses the work of the researchers, are raised which with their petals coloured first in “vitro”, in the laboratories of the gardens of the domus and the Department of Agriculture, and still peep today from the ceilings then transplanted in large vases, until and the edges of the fountains. they are bedded in the lovely gardens Only in Pompeii is of the Excavations of Pompeii it possible to see and in the bordering areas. all the phases of From strolling in these mythical the production of places, Michele Fiorenza with the fragrances artistically nose/perfumer Giovanni Festa, shown in a painted admiring and smelling the ancient frieze: the cupids The in vitro roses in the laboratory rose of Pompeii, seal in a bottle of the University of Naples of the house of “Rosa Pompeiana” an inebriating the Vettii work Assistance was also given by the fragrance of a rose that has diligently, in the Institute of Applied Research of the been reborn from the ashes, miniature pictorial Archaeological Park of Pompeii, of rich in history and love. representation, which the Director, Prof. Massimo Main accords: rose, busy, with vases Osanna, is the real architect behind fresh, sweet, musk, and ampoules, in all the project of replanting roses in the amber. Top notes: the activities of the gardens of Pompeii, together with rose, red berries. different phases of his collaborators Ernesto De Carolis, Heart: rose, iris. preparing and selling Adele Lagi and Michele Borgongino. Base: musk, amber.

The special soap made of petal 32 of roses from Rosa Pompeiana ROSA POMPEIANA Perfume of the Pompeii Archeological Park

made with petals of roses grown in the gardens of Pompeii's Ruins Info: [email protected] 33 COMPANY ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

New visual identity, UERMI same philosophy

UERMI, which means WEAR ME, presents a new vision, new bottles, new packaging; therefore what is not changing is brand philosophy: extreme high quality perfumes thanks to the raw materials and compositions chosen by a selection of great international master perfumers: Antoine Lie, Cécile Zarokian, Jean Jacques, Alexandra Carlin, Philippe Bousseton, Maurice Roucel, Luca Maffei. They have created for UERMI beautiful olfactory answers to provocative questions: “If you think of velvet or silk or tweed…what kind of scents comes to your mind?” Each interpretation is always very personal and unique, confirming the brand main conception: perfumes NU LEATHER colored with nuances of copahu and and fabrics share an elective affinity: Nu leather is the latest fragrance cedar wood, enhanced with a touch both are worn on our precious skin, of UERMI portfolio, inspired of fruity, creamy and milky shades. an expression of our personality. by this important material. So innovative also the new Leather Both perfumes and fabrics caress It has been created with the MD, a natural note obtained and gratify our senses and evoke our master perfumer Luca Maffei. by an infusion of real leather memories. A fabric, just as a perfume, Main protagonist is sandalwood from and steam of smoked wood. can make us travel through time. New Caledonia; the roots and the The composition is hued by nutmeg, We can affirm that UERMI creates heart of the wood are distilled in and in cashmeran are concentrated an intriguing olfactive wardrobe. order to obtain refined boisé notes, different intense and balanced sensations; Sichuan pepper will add citrusy, pungent, almost metallic nuances. A fragrance with a superior level of elegant and contemporary determination.

VE VELVET In this new VE VELVET, also created with Luca Maffei, the protagonists are two vetivers, Haiti and Java together, elegant and timeless, just like velvet is. The fragrance opens with a sunny freshness, luminous and citrucy, wrapped in precious notes of woods and Amber that warm up the rich, complex composition.

34 ARTISTIC PERFUMERY COMPANY

AFFINESSENCEartistic fragrances inspired by the quintessence of perfumery

Each fragrance in the The bottle has a sleek design with an collection illustrates Art Deco touch, in a highly refined the art and the presentation, ensuring that the talent of a perfumer, fragrance is the star of the show. showcasing his favourite base ingredient. The 100 ml natural spray bottle is Each perfumer was free to feel made of thick glass with a metallic Base Notes Collection a total “creative affinity” plate and the heavy zamac cap is is the first act of an olfactory and was free to choose the base signed with the Affinessence logo. opus by Sophie Bruneau ingredient which inspired him Included with the perfume is a and which resonated with him, cashmere pouch to perfume Sophie Bruneau, an expert in all and without any constraints. and slide into a bag to inhale the things olfactory, has created an Sophie Bruneau’s objective was to fragrance every time it is opened. art perfume collection of her own, create a new genre of fragrance: It is also perfect for men, to a selection of the most exquisite daring, “base-focused” and unique protect their most valued watches. perfume creations, made from perfumes. These purely beautiful Creation and passion are the most precious ingredients. perfumes were to be the result of a the keywords of this original Base Notes Collection by Affinessence selection of noble and rare natural collection which is dedicated has been created exclusively from raw materials, showcased with to those who are sensitive, essences that are traditionally used audacity. Each one had to be imbued who choose a smell, a fragrance as base notes. With their higher with a precious alter ego and this duo and the emotion it provokes. molecular weight, these notes are had to be crowned by a halo of other, the heaviest in a perfume, which equally splendid ingredients. gives them exceptional qualities The Base Notes Collection comprises of intensity, extreme persistence, a six fragrances: Vanilla-Benzoin by particularly sensual warmth of the Corinne Cachen, Sandalwood- skin (and on natural fabrics such as Basmati by Alexandra Carlin, Cedar- cashmere) and an incomparable trail. Iris by Nicolas Bonneville, Patchouli- They are also the notes which Agar Wood by Nicolas Bonneville, touch us most deeply, because they Musk-Ambergris by Henri Bergia and resonate with our deepest egos. Leather-Turmeric by Alexandra Carlin. Amber, vanilla, wood or animal, these The perfumes are presented in warm, rounded notes are genuine luxurious coffrets of black-lacquered triggers for our emotions: if we wood with a magnetic closure. find ourselves in “affinessence” with An additional cardboard outer box these notes, it is because they form with matte nude shades contrasts a direct affinity with our senses. with the intense ultra-shiny black.

35 THE HEALTHY AGEING AND CLEAN BEAUTY SKIN CARE BRAND A natural and healthy ageing process and the use of “clean” products, with ingredients that pose no hazard to human health nor the environment, makes GUUDCURE the good care for skin.

POLLUTION FREE The complete anti-pollution range with Zeolite protecting the skin from polluting agents and impurities with a preventive anti-ageing action.

AGE BALANCE The latest generation anti-ageing skincare system with a double action: rebalancing the skin thanks to pre and probiotics that prevent ageing, and correcting particular skin damages with targeted active ingredients.

COSMOPROF ASIA Hong Kong – 13-15 November 36GUUDCURE is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A, www.hsacosmetics.com - made in italy Discover the complete range on guudcure.com or shop.guudcure.com

THE HEALTHY AGEING AND CLEAN BEAUTY SKIN CARE BRAND A natural and healthy ageing process and the use of “clean” products, with ingredients that pose no hazard to human health nor the environment, makes GUUDCURE the good care for skin.

POLLUTION FREE The complete anti-pollution range with Zeolite protecting the skin from polluting agents and impurities with a preventive anti-ageing action.

COSMOPROF ASIA Hong Kong – 13-15 November GUUDCURE is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A, III www.hsacosmetics.com - made in italy Discover the complete range on guudcure.com or shop.guudcure.com