BUYING GUIDE NOVEMBER 2012 Cabernet Franc grapes being harvested at Veramar’s vineyard in Shenandoah Valley, Virginia. 42 BURGUNDY 2 CALIFORNIA 56 VENETO 25 NEW YORK 68 SPAIN 29 WASHINGTON 75 SPIRITS 36 OTHER NORTH AMERICA 77 BEER 39 ARGENTINA FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 40 SOUTH AFRICA BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM © MICK ROCK WineMag.com | 1 UNITED STATES AMERICA THE BEAUTIFUL AND BOUNTIFUL s the holidays approach and our minds turn to get-togethers and state’s 12th AVA, Naches Heights, went into effect in January 2012, and entertaining, we traditionally fill our November issue with ar- wine grape acreage has been growing steadily from year to year. Although A ticles on the best wine values and smart buys to help get you most of the state’s producers focus on ultrapremium wines, many Wash- through the season. The wines reviewed for this issue generally reflect the ington wines still represent impressive value. same intention, but also include a look at the growing diversity of domes- This month’s Buying Guide also features reviews from currently trendy tic selections. locales like New York and Virginia, as well as selections from emerging With American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in 31 states, the American wine-producing states like Michigan, Missouri, New Jersey, New Mexico, wine industry continues to blossom, offering wines of character and dis- Ohio and Texas. tinction from all across the country. Patriotism is high because of the pres- Although the United States takes center stage in this issue, the sup- idential election and Thanksgiving, making this a perfect time to promote porting cast includes several international players. European Editor Roger drinking locally. Voss assesses the latest crop of Burgundies, Contributing Editor Michael California remains the major player domestically, being the source of ap- Schachner takes us through Spain and Italian Editor Monica Larner re- proximately 90% of all U.S. wine. It is also the world’s fourth leading wine views classic wines of the Veneto, including some stellar Amarones. producer after France, Italy and Spain. Variety abounds, with more than You’ll also find reviews from South Africa and Argentina to round things 3,500 wineries, nearly 550,000 acres of wine grapes and 115 AVAs, offer- out, but as always, be sure to check out buyingguide.winemag.com for our ing something to suit just about every wine lover’s taste. complete database of over 123,500 reviews. Washington is the nation’s second-largest wine-producing state. The Cheers! —LAUREN BUZZEO CALIFORNIA Byron 2010 Nielson Vineyard Chardon­ It’s pretty obvious in its appeal, and it will be enjoyed by 92 nay (Santa Maria Valley). For full review many for its vast richness. —S.H. see page 7. abv: 14.9% Price: $48 CHARDONNAY abv: 14.8% Price: $32 Clos La Chance 2010 Murphy’s Choice Del Dotto 2009 Cinghiale Vineyard Fami­ Byron 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). ly Reserve Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 89 96 Valley). For full review see page 9. Editors’ Lots of acidity gives this Chardonnay a real bite, while Rich and complex, this dry, terroir-driven wine com- 90 Choice. the fruit is very ripe, expressive of pineapples, tanger- pletely avoids the sweet butter creaminess and jammi- abv: 14.9% Price: $27 ines and Meyer lemons. The result is a flavor of sour ness of so many Chardonnays, showcasing instead notes yellow candy, enriched with the creaminess of lees and of tropical fruits and pears. It’s framed by minerals and Monticello Vineyards 2010 Estate Char­ a buttered toast note from the oak barrels. Drink with even a fresh herbaceousness that suggests the wild donnay (Oak Knoll). This boasts appealing rich, buttery shellfish entrées. —S.H. plants growing around this Sonoma Coast vineyard. 90 tropical fruit flavors that have been generously oaked. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 While the oak influences are strong, they are perfectly The honey quality lends smoothness and a round mel- in keeping with the underlying volume. —S.H. lowness, and the finish is quite dry. It shows a softness Blondie 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). abv: 14.7% Price: $125 some may fault, but this is ultimately delicious, and it 87 Even though this is a bit one dimensional, it’s will be a great accompaniment to rich shellfish. —S.H. delicious, polished and appealing, offering flamboyant Del Dotto 2009 Cinghiale Vineyard Ge­ abv: 13.8% Price: $28 tropical fruit, butterscotch, buttered toast and spice fla- rard’s Blend Chardonnay (Sonoma 95 vors. —S.H. Coast). This is so dry, minerally and richly complex, Olabisi 2010 Ceja Vineyard Chardonnay abv: 14.2% Price: $19 you’d swear you were drinking great French Chablis. (Carneros). The cooler vintage favored this Brisk acidity and a steely stoniness give the apricot and 90 Chardonnay, giving it brisk acidity and ripe flavors of Cinnabar 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey). citrus fruits a backbone of iron and iodine. Oak is there, citrus and tropical fruit. Oak has dominated this bottling Seemingly slightly sweet, this is sophisticated but subtly lurking in the background, lending a hint of 87 in the past, but with the 2010 vintage, it plays only a enough to drink with upscale fare. The price is good, buttered toast. A beautiful wine, classy and upscale for supporting role, lending a hint of buttered toast. —S.H. considering the richness of its oak-inspired citrus, tropi- drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 cal fruit and butter-cream flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $85 abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards Boheme 2009 Taylor Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). For full review Hanna 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This shows 90 94 see page 10. Editors’ Choice. (Russian River Valley). Made in the popular the streamlined acidity and minerality of a fine coast- 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 style, this features ripe orange, lemon, lime and guava al Chardonnay, as well as the dryness. But the ripeness flavors, highlighted by brisk acidity and made rich with is impressive, suggesting notes of Key lime pie, lemon Chalk Hill 2010 Estate Chardonnay a buttered toast note and creamy lees. It’s an elegant, meringue and ripe, sweet kiwi, with subtle oak influ- 89 (Chalk Hill). Exceptionally ripe, this has notes appealing Chardonnay for drinking now. —S.H. ence. An impressive wine from start to finish. —S.H. of tropical fruits, apricots and pears, with a glorious abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.3% Price: $45 coating of sweet, smoky, buttered toast from the oak. Continued on Page 14 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Diamond Creek 2009 Gravelly Meadow Nickel & Nickel 2009 Martin Stelling Vine­ Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­ 96 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Un- Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. tain). Rich and powerful, with a molten intensity, this believably rich and delicious, this is a joy to drink. It If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s has loads of blackberry and cherry jam flavors, yet it has continues the winery’s long record with this vineyard, initials appear following the note. When no initials appear a minerally earthiness that grounds it and makes it end- reaching toward its apex with this 2009. Made from following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect lessly complex. With its tannic profile and sweet oak 100% Cabernet and aged in nearly two-thirds new the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits jacket, this defines Napa Valley Cabernet—particularly French oak, it’s elaborate, layered and complex, offering Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by from the mountains. If you can keep your hands off it, juicy notes of blackberry, black currant and dark choco- Lauren Buzzeo. this will develop over the next 10–20 years. Cellar Se- late, with sweet toast and vanilla flavors that continue Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by lection. —S.H. onto the spicy finish. If you can keep your hands off it, the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.1% Price: $175 this will develop over the next 10–15 years. Cellar Se- cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. lection. —S.H. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 14.7% Price: $155 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in Vine Cliff 2009 16 Rows assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak­ uncustomary are retasted. ville). As good as the winery’s regular ABOUT THE SCORES 2009 Cabernet is, this small-production Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.