BUYING GUIDE NOVEMBER 2012 Cabernet Franc grapes being harvested at Veramar’s vineyard in Shenandoah Valley, Virginia.

42 BURGUNDY 2 CALIFORNIA 56 VENETO 25 NEW YORK 68 SPAIN 29 WASHINGTON 75 SPIRITS 36 OTHER NORTH AMERICA 77 BEER

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s the holidays approach and our minds turn to get-togethers and state’s 12th AVA, Naches Heights, went into effect in January 2012, and entertaining, we traditionally fill our November issue with ar- wine grape acreage has been growing steadily from year to year. Although A ticles on the best wine values and smart buys to help get you most of the state’s producers focus on ultrapremium wines, many Wash- through the season. The wines reviewed for this issue generally reflect the ington wines still represent impressive value. same intention, but also include a look at the growing diversity of domes- This month’s Buying Guide also features reviews from currently trendy tic selections. locales like New York and Virginia, as well as selections from emerging With American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in 31 states, the American wine-producing states like Michigan, Missouri, New Jersey, New Mexico, wine industry continues to blossom, offering wines of character and dis- Ohio and Texas. tinction from all across the country. Patriotism is high because of the pres- Although the United States takes center stage in this issue, the sup- idential election and Thanksgiving, making this a perfect time to promote porting cast includes several international players. European Editor Roger drinking locally. Voss assesses the latest crop of Burgundies, Contributing Editor Michael California remains the major player domestically, being the source of ap- Schachner takes us through Spain and Italian Editor Monica Larner re- proximately 90% of all U.S. wine. It is also the world’s fourth leading wine views classic wines of the Veneto, including some stellar Amarones. producer after France, Italy and Spain. Variety abounds, with more than You’ll also find reviews from South Africa and Argentina to round things 3,500 wineries, nearly 550,000 acres of wine grapes and 115 AVAs, offer- out, but as always, be sure to check out buyingguide.winemag.com for our ing something to suit just about every wine lover’s taste. complete database of over 123,500 reviews. Washington is the nation’s second-largest wine-producing state. The Cheers! —Lauren Buzzeo

CALIFORNIA Byron 2010 Nielson Vineyard Chardon­ It’s pretty obvious in its appeal, and it will be enjoyed by 92 nay (Santa Maria Valley). For full review many for its vast richness. —S.H. see page 7. abv: 14.9% Price: $48 CHARDONNAY abv: 14.8% Price: $32 Clos La Chance 2010 Murphy’s Choice Del Dotto 2009 Cinghiale Vineyard Fami­ Byron 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). ly Reserve Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 89 96 Valley). For full review see page 9. Editors’ Lots of acidity gives this Chardonnay a real bite, while Rich and complex, this dry, terroir-driven wine com- 90 Choice. the fruit is very ripe, expressive of pineapples, tanger- pletely avoids the sweet butter creaminess and jammi- abv: 14.9% Price: $27 ines and Meyer lemons. The result is a flavor of sour ness of so many Chardonnays, showcasing instead notes yellow candy, enriched with the creaminess of lees and of tropical fruits and pears. It’s framed by minerals and Monticello Vineyards 2010 Estate Char­ a buttered toast note from the oak barrels. Drink with even a fresh herbaceousness that suggests the wild donnay (Oak Knoll). This boasts appealing rich, buttery shellfish entrées. —S.H. plants growing around this Sonoma Coast vineyard. 90 tropical fruit flavors that have been generously oaked. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 While the oak influences are strong, they are perfectly The honey quality lends smoothness and a round mel- in keeping with the underlying volume. —S.H. lowness, and the finish is quite dry. It shows a softness Blondie 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). abv: 14.7% Price: $125 some may fault, but this is ultimately delicious, and it 87 Even though this is a bit one dimensional, it’s will be a great accompaniment to rich shellfish. —S.H. delicious, polished and appealing, offering flamboyant Del Dotto 2009 Cinghiale Vineyard Ge­ abv: 13.8% Price: $28 tropical fruit, butterscotch, buttered toast and spice fla- rard’s Blend Chardonnay (Sonoma 95 vors. —S.H. Coast). This is so dry, minerally and richly complex, Olabisi 2010 Ceja Vineyard Chardonnay abv: 14.2% Price: $19 you’d swear you were drinking great French Chablis. (Carneros). The cooler vintage favored this Brisk acidity and a steely stoniness give the apricot and 90 Chardonnay, giving it brisk acidity and ripe flavors of Cinnabar 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey). citrus fruits a backbone of iron and iodine. Oak is there, citrus and tropical fruit. Oak has dominated this bottling Seemingly slightly sweet, this is sophisticated but subtly lurking in the background, lending a hint of 87 in the past, but with the 2010 vintage, it plays only a enough to drink with upscale fare. The price is good, buttered toast. A beautiful wine, classy and upscale for supporting role, lending a hint of buttered toast. —S.H. considering the richness of its oak-inspired citrus, tropi- drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 cal fruit and butter-cream flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $85 abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards Boheme 2009 Taylor Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). For full review Hanna 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This shows 90 94 see page 10. Editors’ Choice. (Russian River Valley). Made in the popular the streamlined acidity and minerality of a fine coast- 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 style, this features ripe orange, lemon, lime and guava al Chardonnay, as well as the dryness. But the ripeness flavors, highlighted by brisk acidity and made rich with is impressive, suggesting notes of Key lime pie, lemon Chalk Hill 2010 Estate Chardonnay a buttered toast note and creamy lees. It’s an elegant, meringue and ripe, sweet kiwi, with subtle oak influ- 89 (Chalk Hill). Exceptionally ripe, this has notes appealing Chardonnay for drinking now. —S.H. ence. An impressive wine from start to finish. —S.H. of tropical fruits, apricots and pears, with a glorious abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.3% Price: $45 coating of sweet, smoky, buttered toast from the oak.

Continued on Page 14

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Diamond Creek 2009 Gravelly Meadow Nickel & Nickel 2009 Martin Stelling Vine­ Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­ 96 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Un- Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. tain). Rich and powerful, with a molten intensity, this believably rich and delicious, this is a joy to drink. It If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s has loads of blackberry and cherry jam flavors, yet it has continues the winery’s long record with this vineyard, initials appear following the note. When no initials appear a minerally earthiness that grounds it and makes it end- reaching toward its apex with this 2009. Made from following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect lessly complex. With its tannic profile and sweet oak 100% Cabernet and aged in nearly two-thirds new the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits jacket, this defines Napa Valley Cabernet—particularly French oak, it’s elaborate, layered and complex, offering Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by from the mountains. If you can keep your hands off it, juicy notes of blackberry, black currant and dark choco- Lauren Buzzeo. this will develop over the next 10–20 years. Cellar Se- late, with sweet toast and vanilla flavors that continue Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by lection. —S.H. onto the spicy finish. If you can keep your hands off it, the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.1% Price: $175 this will develop over the next 10–15 years. Cellar Se- cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. lection. —S.H. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 14.7% Price: $155 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in Vine Cliff 2009 16 Rows assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak­ uncustomary are retasted. ville). As good as the winery’s regular ABOUT THE SCORES 2009 Cabernet is, this small-production Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying selection from the estate vineyard is tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. even better. However, as the tannins are Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. fierce, it’s not a wine you want to drink Superb 94–97: A great achievement. anytime soon. Through the astringency Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Diamond Creek 2009 Volcanic Hill Cab­ shines a bright, burning core of perfectly Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; 96 ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). ripe blackberries and savory black cur- often good value. This shows the Diamond Creek signature of dryness, rants. Flashy and impressive, this 100% Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. mountain tannins and voluptuously ripe, concentrated Cabernet should begin to soften and Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 fruit. It’s dense in blackberry jam and cassis flavors, with mellow after 2018. Cellar Selection. points) are not reviewed. firm minerality and a lush toast note from the oak. Near —S.H. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS perfection in all of its parts, it possesses those hard-to- abv: 14.9% Price: $150 Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent define qualities of balance and elegance. Wonderful as quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any it is now, the tannins suggest aging it for many years. price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible Cellar Selection. —S.H. and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to abv: 14.1% Price: $175 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting Dal Forno Romano 2006 Amarone del­ & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ la Valpolicella. Dal Forno delivers one of wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting 95 products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted the world’s most impossibly rich and concentrated red for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted Gramercy Cellars 2009 Lagniappe Syrah wines. Using grapes sourced from the high-density will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission 96 (Columbia Valley). This has astonishing Monte Lodoletta vineyard, this inky, dark expression forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. depth of flavor, with dense black fruits marbled with oozes with syrupy tones of maraschino, dark chocolate LABELS notes of smoked meat, clove, balsamic and an earthy fudge, cinnamon spice, crushed clove and barbecue Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given flavor. It’s a wine to savor and cellar.Cellar Selection. smoke. In keeping with the wine’s legendary reputation the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and —P.G. for long aging potential, the tannins are rock solid at the printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax abv: 13.7% Price: $45 moment. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. abv: 16.5% Price: $530

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Diamond Creek 2009 Red Rock Terrace Le Salette 2008 Pergole Vece (Amarone Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­ 95 95 della Valpolicella Classico). The fruit- Summers 2009 Checkmate Cabernet tain). The ripest of Diamond Creek’s new ’09 Caber- driven­ intensity and general youthfulness of this Ama- Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This is nets, Red Rock shows a sun-blasted quality of red cur- 95 rone promise a very long future. It’s well-built and bold, easily one of the most delicious Cabernets of the year. rants, blueberry and cassis. Heady and exotic, this is rich with a rich, chewy mouthfeel and lively aromas of leath- The first sip dazzles, offering a treasure chest of flavors, in tannins and noble in acidity. While it’s a joy to drink er, spice, plum, dark fruit and tobacco. It goes down including blackberry, spice, mocha and toasted oak. For now and over the next eight years, its extreme ripeness beautifully, leaving a long endnote of divine chocolate all the richness, the wine is properly dry, and the tan- may limit its longterm ageability. —S.H. fudge. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. nins are as smooth as old silk. It’s so approachable, it’s abv: 14.1% Price: $175 abv: 16% Price: $132 hard to believe it’s from Diamond Mountain, whose tan- nins are notoriously hard in youth. The one drawback is that the wine is too soft for aging, but who cares? Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $100

Kadiem 2009 Inaugural Vintage Cabernet Mark Ryan 2009 Lonely Heart Cabernet 95 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a really im- 95 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Pure, dense and pressive launch for this new brand. Although the bottle deep, this captures the pure essence of Red Mountain doesn’t bear a vineyard designation, it’s 100% Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon. Berry and cherry flavors surface from the Morisoli Vineyard in Rutherford, which has in equal proportion, with more rock than barrel add- produced superb Cabernets in the past from the likes ing complexity throughout the finish. Excellent depth of Meander, Galleron, V. Sattui and Sequoia Grove. and structure suggest that this is one to put down for a Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Opulento Des­ Dry and full bodied, it has flavors of sour cherry candy decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 94 sert Wine Touriga-Souzao-Tinto Cão (Ya­ and cassis that often define Rutherford, which are all abv: 14.7% Price: $80 kima Valley). Opulento is made entirely ­with authen- wrapped into smooth, supple tannins. Beautiful as it is tic Portuguese varieties, based on 60% Touriga Nacio- now, it’s a wine you want to lay down. Best after 2017. nal. It’s truly Port-like in flavor, showing deep notes of Cellar Selection. —S.H. black cherry and cassis fruit. Smooth and supple, this abv: 14.4% Price: $85 is thoroughly delicious and should not be missed. Edi- tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 19% Price: $20/375 ml

Mark Ryan 2009 Long Haul Merlot-Cab­ 95 ernet Franc-Malbec-Petit Verdot (Red Mountain). A blend of 64% Merlot and 27% Cabernet Franc, with splashes of Malbec and Petit Verdot, this is Lauren Ashton 2009 Cuvée Arlette (Red built for the long haul. Raspberries, cherries and rich 95 Mountain). This is a stunning Bordeaux-style chocolate run through this fine-tuned, focused wine. Lauren Ashton 2009 Cuvée Mirabelle blend of 57% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 9% It’s deep, elegant and penetrating, with a show-stopping 94 (Red Mountain). This is mostly Syrah, with Cabernet Sauvignon, with 2.5% each of Petit Verdot layer of pure mineral that is so powerful the fruit seems 10% each Grenache and Mourvèdre. Fat and beefy, it and Malbec. Tight, dark and dense, it showcases the de- soaked in rock. Cellar Selection. —P.G. starts with a scent of fresh carpaccio around dense black tailed styling that epitomizes the Lauren Ashton port- abv: 14.8% Price: $48 cherry fruit. Lush and generous, with notes of both fruit folio. Perfectly ripe and perfectly proportioned, it has and barrel, it adds streaks of coffee and cacao that wind the power and tannin to age for decades. Cellar Selec- through a long and beautifully defined finish. Editors’ tion. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $50 abv: 14.9% Price: $52

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Mark Ryan 2009 The Dissident Merlot- Sabina Vineyards 2008 Estate Cabernet 94 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah-Malbec-Petit 94 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Showing the tan- Verdot (Columbia Valley). This is a Merlot-domi- nins this estate bottling is known for, this is quite astrin- Lauren Ashton 2009 Proprietor’s Cuvée nant blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec gent despite the fabulous wealth of fruit flavors, which 94 (Red Mountain). Dense and dark to the point and Petit Verdot in supporting roles. The voluptuous include ripe blackberries, sweet cherries, savory cur- of being slightly liqueur-like, it bursts with notes of rich nose introduces a riot of blue and purple fruit flavors—a rants and anise liqueur, with a hint of Provençal herbs. black fruit, licorice, tar, smoke and espresso. The wine comingling of berries and plums. Streaks of fresh herb, Despite the hardness, this shows elegance and opulence seems to hang on the palate for an extraordinarily long mocha and cacao enter gracefully, leading onto the that put it into the top ranks. Drink now–2016, at the time, continuing on like an endless coal mine. Cellar rich, deep and lusciously long finish.Editors’ Choice. very least. —S.H. Selection. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $100 abv: 14.9% Price: $50 abv: 14.7% Price: $32

Sebastiani 2009 Cherryblock Cabernet Louis Latour 2010 Corton-Charlemagne. 94 Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). The winery 94 Richly structured, this wine is all texture at this Nickel & Nickel 2009 Branding Iron Cab­ has been producing this bottling for many years, and stage—although the rich fruit lingers underneath. Ap- 94 ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Beautiful in ev- this is possibly the finest ever. It’s soft, but not too soft, ple, pear and citrus fruits give this opulent, powerful ery respect, this has ripe flavors of blackberries, blue- ripe, but not too ripe, and exquisitely flavorful, offer- wine its freshness. This has a great future ahead. Louis berries and cassis. It shows the classic Oakville struc- ing tiers of red cherries, cocoa and bacon, enhanced Latour Inc. —R.V. ture of firm, hard tannins, elegance and ageworthiness. with smoky, sweet new oak. It’s a fine wine to drink with abv: 14% Price: $130 Made from 100% Cabernet, it will reward holding until grilled steak. —S.H. at least 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $90 abv: 14.8% Price: $100

Louis Latour 2010 Montrachet. Using 94 grapes sourced from the greatest white-wine vineyard in Burgundy, this is huge, dense, very rich Soos Creek 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vine­ and complex. The balance already shows in the wine’s 94 yard Red Wine (Red Mountain). This blend acidity, ripe yellow fruit and round texture. Wood aging Nickel & Nickel 2009 State Ranch Cab­ is 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and brings notes of spice and toast. This will age for many 94 ernet Sauvignon (Yountville). Bone dry 22% Merlot, using grapes sourced entirely from this years. Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. yet sweet in fruit, it shows the acids and tannins of this iconic Red Mountain vineyard. Notes of spice and iron abv: 14% Price: $430 cool section of Napa Valley, which gives such excellent interplay with tightly wound berry and cassis fruit. This structure to the ripe blackberry and blueberry fruit. It is a steely, muscular wine, with an underpinning of feels vital, offering a different impression with every graphite. History has proven that it will age beautifully. sip. Wonderful to drink now but capable of aging; drink Cellar Selection. —P.G. now–2019. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 13.8% Price: $100

WineMag.com | 5 Dal Forno Romano 2007 Valpolicella Su­ 93 periore. Romano Dal Forno applies the same Bertani 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella stringent quality standards on his so-called base wine as Speri 2008 Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano 93 Classico. Bertani is Amarone’s ultimate am- he does his top-tier Amarone. But referring to this Val- 94 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). bassador. This is a focused wine and has been carefully policella Superiore as a “base wine” couldn’t be more in- From one of the Valpolicella’s best producers, this vine- consistent over the years. Bertani has always portrayed correct. In fact, this singular expression occupies its very yard-designate Amarone is amazingly soft and velvety, appassimento—wine made from air-dried grapes—in own category in which the utmost attention is paid to with aromas of softly worn leather, moist chewing to- the most sophisticated and elegant way. This expression the smallest details. It opens with dark, inky concentra- bacco, ripe black cherry and barbecue smoke. It’s an shows exotic spice, dried fruit, cola and leather aromas. tion and amazing intensity, with black cherry, barbecue elegant but modern rendition, showing power, inten- It could age for 10 years or more. Palm Bay Interna- spice, leather and tobacco. Vias Imports. Cellar Selec- sity and impressive length. Best yet, the fruit is young tional. —M.L. tion. —M.L. enough to promise more years of graceful aging. Emp- abv: 14.5% Price: $110 abv: 15% Price: $129 son (USA) Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

El Nido 2009 Red Wine (Jumilla). Dense, Vine Cliff 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Chandon NV Étoile Brut (Napa-Sonoma). 93 cool and masculine on the nose, this has aro- 94 (Oakville). This wine is always impressive, 93 This blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot mas of prune, cola, tobacco, cheese and leather. It feels but its degree of greatness is vintage driven, suggest- Meunier is fancy, elegant and enjoyable to drink now. It silky and soft, showing maximum ripeness and excellent ing its extreme sensitivity to the Oakville terroir. The has that indefinable quality of luxe, bearing a smooth, balance. It tastes of ripe berry, stewed plum, spice and 2009 is ageable and concentrated, better than the 2008 creamy texture, with rich fruit, yeast and toast complexi- tobacco. Complex and classy on the finish; drink now– but falling short of the 2007, which approached perfec- ties. With a production of 5,000 cases, it should be rela- 2017. Gil Family Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. tion. Dry and tannic, it’s rich in blackberries, black cur- tively easy to find. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $140 rants and dark chocolate flavors. The long, spicy finish abv: 13% Price: $40 only hints at the intensity. Hold until 2015, and it should have a long life for many years beyond. Cellar Selec- tion. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

Lauren Ashton 2009 Syrah (Red Moun­ 93 tain). This is a precisely detailed wine that shows impeccable craftsmanship. The fruit is firm and Conn Creek 2008 Collins Holystone balanced, pairing pure black cherry and cassis flavors 93 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Hele­ with darker barrel notes of cacao and espresso. Editors’ na). Made from 100% Cabernet grown on the valley Choice. —P.G. Alder Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon floor north of St. Helena, this shows ripe, velvety flavors abv: 14.9% Price: $43 93 (Horse Heaven Hills). Young, supple and of blackberry jam, cassis and dark chocolate, wrapped stylish, this mixes notes of berry, plum and cassis, dem- into firm but soft tannins, with a pleasing warmth from onstrating poise and richness. The barrel flavors are the alcohol. Drink over the next four years. —S.H. smoothly integrated; the finish is rich and dark, with a abv: 14.5% Price: $60 strong streak of cacao. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Louis Latour 2010 Château Corton 93 Grancey (Corton). A firm, powerful wine, Oakville Winery 2010 Estate Zinfandel its tannins still very dominant. Acidity is a factor, along 93 (Oakville). One of the best Zins now on the with deep red-plum fruit. Some sweetness will develop market, this is rich, showing gorgeous flavors of black- Brian Carter Cellars 2007 Solesce Red in the next several years, although this concentrated and berries, raspberries and cola, with notes of cured meat, 92 Wine (Yakima Valley). Composed of 50% complex wine will also have a solid core of dry, struc- black pepper and sandalwood. The tannins are pure Cabernet Sauvignon, with other Bordeaux varieties in tured tannin. Age for at least five years. Louis Latour Oakville—refined and complex. Only 500 cases were the mix, this spent 30 months in barrel and 18 months Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. in bottle prior to release. The dense, tannic Red Moun- abv: 14% Price: $130 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 tain fruit remains firm and compact, creating a wine that needs to be decanted. The layers of berry, cassis, leaf, bark, earth and spice are balanced and tight. Cellar Se- lection. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $60

Luigi Righetti 2006 G&G (Amarone della Benovia 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 93 Valpolicella Classico). This dark Amarone is 92 Coast). Using grapes sourced from four high- savory and spicy, with rosemary, forest floor and bram- quality vineyards, this shows deeply layered raspberry, Byron 2010 Nielson Vineyard Chardon­ ble notes. Fresh fruit and dark cherry aromas make for cherry, cola and mushroom flavors, with no trace of the 92 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Santa Maria a nice balance, but overall it demonstrates an elegant, unripeness that marred some other coastal wines from Valley’s terroir shines through in this Chardonnay’s herbal side. The tannic structure is fine and firm, and this cool vintage. Drink it over the next six years before brisk, mouthwatering acidity and fruit purity. The there’s enough crisp acidity to carry this wine for 10 the fruit fades. —S.H. bright, vibrant guava and citrus flavors are enriched years or more. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Cellar Se- abv: 14.2% Price: $38 with a coating of sweet, smoky oak. There’s a fascinating lection. —M.L. minerality, like a lick of sandstone rocks, that boosts its abv: 15% Price: $160 complex appeal. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

Mark Ryan 2009 Dead Horse Cabernet 93 Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc-Malbec-Mer­ Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Corrida lot-Petit Verdot (Red Mountain). This Bordeaux- 92 Tempranillo-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon- style blend is Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated, showing Garnacha-Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Conn Creek 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard vivid red fruits, with drying, somewhat leafy tannins. It Based on Tempranillo, this red blend is filled out 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made has an earthy foundation and impressive length, it just with 15% Merlot, 7% Grenache, 8% Cabernet Sau- from 100% Cabernet grapes grown in this highly re- needs more bottle age to fully integrate its flavors.Cel - vignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. It’s the best Cor- garded vineyard that straddles Atlas Peak, this is dry, full lar Selection. —P.G. rida yet, concentrated, compact and lightly smoky. bodied and softly rich in tannins. It has a fruity essence abv: 14.7% Price: $52 Dense boysenberry fruit anchors the core, with a and a toasty sweetness that’s driven by the oak, making deep brambly flavor that’s reminiscent of old-vine it delicious. —S.H. Zinfandel. The dark, plush finish lingers sensuously. Ed- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 itors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

WineMag.com | 7 Oakville Winery 2009 Estate Cabernet 92 Sauvignon (Oakville). This is ripe and com- Lauren Ashton 2011 Rosé of Sangiovese plex, with thick tannins that frame flavors of blackber- Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2008 Victoria 2 92 (Columbia Valley). The Sangiovese comes ry, cherry jam and a hint of violet. Give it an hour or 92 (Málaga). This opens with pure, attractive nec- from Red Willow Vineyard, and it would be hard to find two in the decanter, or cellar it for a few years. Editors’ tarine and apricot aromas, along with hints of mineral a more lovely, elegant rosé from this side of the Atlan- Choice. —S.H. and petrol. It feels pure and racy, with delicious, clean tic. Light strawberry and melon aromas continue onto abv: 14.5% Price: $45 flavors of pineapple, honey and mango. It’s delicate and the palate, with pinpoint detail and precision. Editors’ fresh on the finish, with just enough weight to be taken Choice. —P.G. seriously. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $26/375 ml

Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Viognier 92 (Edna Valley). As Barbara Streisand might have said, “Hello, gorgeous.” With brisk acidity that’s Joseph Drouhin 2010 Côte de Beaune. Lauren Ashton 2011 Roussanne (Colum­ almost tingly, this is basically dry, yet the exotic tropical 92 This blend of premier crus and some village 92 bia Valley). This stylish, well-defined Rous- fruit, peach and honeysuckle flavors are so pure, ending Côte de Beaune shows generous red-cherry fruit and sanne is crisp as a cucumber, with fruit flavors of citrus, with a sweet finish. It’s the perfect accompaniment to a touch of acidity. Its depth of richness and complexity green berry, apple and melon. This is immaculate and Asian-fusion fare. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. highlight its fine origins. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. beautifully balanced. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13.2% Price: $25

Lauren Ashton 2011 Cuvée Méline (Co­ Nickel & Nickel 2009 Hayne Vineyard Tedeschi 2007 Capitel Monte Olmi (Am­ 92 lumbia Valley). Excellent texture and overall 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Right 92 arone della Valpolicella Classico). This is balance typify all of the wines from this exciting new now, the tannins are so fierce, they overshadow the jam- easy to recognize thanks to its distinctive intensity and producer. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, my blackberry and cassis flavors. With such an elegant opulence. This 2007 may be the best bottling yet. It this brings a mix of melon, apple, herb and grass into construction and balance, there’s no reason it shouldn’t oozes with sweet flavors of cardamom, cinnamon, play. Zippy, citrusy acids add zesty minerality as the develop in the bottle over the next 8–10 years. Cellar crushed clove, nutmeg and all kinds of ripe berry fruit. wine rolls into a rocking finish, with just a hint of barrel Selection. —S.H. There’s a firm tannic bite on the finish, which is fol- toast. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $100 lowed by long-lasting succulent sweetness. Dreyfus, abv: 13.4% Price: $28 Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $95

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Byron 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Maria 90 Valley). Rich, spicy and oaky, this exudes a Lauren Ashton 2011 Chardonnay (Co­ honeyed quality along with pineapple and lemon me- 91 lumbia Valley). Leesy and nicely textured, ringue notes. The brisk Santa Maria acidity provides Apex 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val­ this has lime and green apple notes that rest on a bed of clean, mouthwatering balance. Pair this opulent Char- 91 ley). This opens with enticing aromas of toast- bracing acidity. It has length, focus and detail, all with- donnay with lobster, shrimp and salmon. Editors’ ed hazelnut, Key lime and white peach. The firm, con- out intrusive new oak—just a small percentage of the Choice. —S.H. trolled palate is concentrated and long, offering vivid, wine was barrel-fermented. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $27 precise fruit and a tasty hint of skin phenolics. Editors’ abv: 13.1% Price: $25 Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $17

Cadaretta 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Thurston Wolfe 2008 The Geologist Pre­ 90 (Columbia Valley). Brambly berry fruit, with 91 mium Red Wine (Washington). A Bordeaux- a hint of herb around the edges, marks this wine. Along style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, with the Cabernet, there are smaller amounts of Petit Cadaretta 2011 sbs Sauvignon Blanc- Malbec and Merlot, this remains quite youthful, with Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, showing well-in- 91 Semillon (Columbia Valley). A blend of its flavors of barrel aging still prominent. Substantial, tegrated barrel notes of coffee and roasted walnuts, and 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon, this definite- brambly berry fruit is bolstered by stiff tannins, streaked smooth tannins. —P.G. ly reflects the cool 2011 vintage in its steely tension. with notes of loam, graphite and smoke. The structure, abv: 14.9% Price: $40 The clean green-fruit flavors are well defined and high- depth and balance are all in place, it just needs more lighted with notes of grassy herbs and saline mineral- time to consolidate. Cellar Selection. —P.G. ity. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.1% Price: $23

Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Vieilles 90 Vignes (Puligny-Montrachet). Using grapes sourced from 70-year-old vines, this has a wood element that combines with citrus and yellow fruits. An apple fla- Gary Farrell 2009 Hallberg Vineyard Pi­ vor melds with a menthol note, bringing out herbal and 91 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Sleek and Bertani 2009 Villa Arvedi (Amarone della fruity characters. On the finish, the concentration from elegant, showing a great sense of control, the cherry 90 Valpolicella Valpantena). This is Bertani’s the old vines shows strongly. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ and currant fruits are strong, yet restrained, pulled in by modern interpretation of what is one of Italy’s most Choice. —R.V. crisp acidity and taut tannins. It should develop over the steeped-in-tradition wines. The full and generous bou- abv: 13.5% Price: $56 next six years or so. —S.H. quet is redolent of ripe cherry, leather, tobacco, cola and abv: 14.1% Price: $55 grated licorice. The gorgeous mouthfeel is intense and smooth. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $55

WineMag.com | 9 Suavia 2008 Le Rive (Soave Classico). Domìni Veneti 2005 Vigneti di Jago (Am­ Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards 90 The beautiful thing about this wine is the rich- 90 arone della Valpolicella Classico). Pro- 90 Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). This is one of the ness and creaminess of the mouthfeel. The bouquet duced by the innovative Cantina di Negrar co-op, this best California Chardonnays in its price range. It’s not opens with notes of peach, vanilla custard, pear and opens with rich tones of pulpy fruit, bright blueberry, a rich wine; instead, it’s dry, crisply acidic and mineral- a zesty touch of lemon peel. Pair this with shellfish or black cherry, cinnamon and moist pipe tobacco. There’s ly, with citrus zest, vanilla cream and subtle oak flavors. poached salmon steaks. Vias Imports. —M.L. a touch of jamminess on the palate that feeds into the With 65,000 cases produced, this should be easy to find. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 overall sweetness and succulence of the mouthfeel. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. World Direct Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 16.5% Price: $50

Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Pinot Joseph Drouhin 2010 Drouhin -Vaudon Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards 90 Gris (Edna Valley). Fermented in stainless 90 Premier Cru (Chablis). This is deliciously 90 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The steel for less than two months, this shows intense green- crisp and steely, with an apple flavor and the weight of vintage was kind to Rodney Strong, resulting in a fine, apple and lime flavors that are brightened by consid- citrus and grapefruit. It has a minerally, chalky feel, and clean, crisp and savory young wine. It’s a little light and erable acidity. This is a great apéritif wine. Editors’ then the wine rounds out, with crisp fruit on the finish. not an ager, but offers complex, satisfying waves of red Choice. —S.H. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. cherries and currants, cola, bacon, sandalwood and pep- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $37 pery spices. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Mario Bazán 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (Napa Valley). Few Cabernets in the world are this ripe. It floods the mouth with sweet, soft black- berry and cherry flavors, complicated with notes of cur- Sebastiani 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al­ Cantina di Negrar 2009 Amarone della rant, oak and a spicy, exotic hint of plum sauce. You can exander Valley). Soft and luscious, this has 90 Valpolicella Classico. taste the California sun in every sip. Drink it now for its just enough tannin and acidity to give structure to the 89 This expression offers fruit. —S.H. delicious black-cherry, cocoa and bacon flavors. Drink a diverse bouquet composed of various spice and dark abv: 13.5% Price: $55 now. —S.H. fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety, but it abv: 14.2% Price: $40 needs another year or two to come together. Simone In- ternational. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $35

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012

Neil Ellis 2010 The Left Bank (Western Terras Gauda 2011 O Rosal Albariño Cape). This blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvi- 88 Cantina di Negrar 2010 Le Roselle (Val­ (Rías Baixas). gnon, 37% Shiraz and 26% Merlot boasts assertive aro- 89 This is a little heavy and oily on policella Classico Superiore Ripasso). the nose, with blowsy white-fruit aromas. It feels peachy mas of cassis, black plum and licorice root. The medi- 87 Dark and spicy, this has ripe fruit, prune, currant and and smooth, with key flavor components of melon, ap- um-weight palate offers similarly concentrated fruit fla- blackberry aromas that are followed by clove, carda- ple and pear. This shows some extra heft, ending with a vors, with a slightly chewy texture and a long, spicy fin- mom and black pepper notes. The mouthfeel is medi- subtle and smooth finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. ish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. um in terms of length and build. Simone International. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $15 —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Domìni Veneti 2009 La Casetta (Valpoli­ Princesa NV Brut Nature (Cava). This is

88 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). This is 88 light, mildly yeasty, slightly pickled and briny a very approachable wine, with lush aromas of red fruit smelling. It feels fresh and edgy, with good acidic cut, Hogue 2008 Genesis Merlot (Columbia and tobacco, followed by soft, silky tannins. It shows while the flavors lean toward orange and white peach. It Valley). Firm, hard and tight, this offers black enough intensity and staying power to pair with spicy holds onto its briny character on the finish, which is dry, 87 cherry flavors with some peach-pit phenolics. It’s sharp barbecue ribs. World Direct Wines. —M.L. bracing and tastes of mineral and lime. Quintessential and edgy, definitely on the herbal side, with a hint of abv: 14% Price: $22 Wines. —M.S. stem. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.2% Price: $16

Luigi Righetti 2010 Campolieti (Valpo­ Wine Spots 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). licella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Lovingston 2010 Gilbert’s Vineyard Pi­ This is a successful Pinot Noir in terms of its 87 88 Founded in 1909, the historic Luigi Righetti estate of- notage (Monticello). Paying homage to his lighter style, silkiness and generosity, showing real fi- 88 fers a wine with much of the intensity and personality birthplace of South Africa, winemaker Riaan Rossouw nesse and delicacy. It’s a tartly acidic wine with deli- of more expensive Amarone wines. It opens with dark has crafted a Pinotage with explosive notes of spiced cious flavors of cola and sour cherry candy. Try pairing concentration and deep aromas of candied fruit, black- rose petal, charred sugar, coffee and dark fruit. The fla- it with mushroom risotto speckled with crumbled ba- berry and spice. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. vors are equally expressive, with juicy acidity that lends con. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 this medium- to full-bodied effort a salient succulence. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

WineMag.com | 11 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Terras Gauda 2011 Abadia de San 87 Campio Albariño (Rías Baixas). Light scal- lion and green herb aromas are offset by buttercup and melon scents. It feels fairly deep and melony, with Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oxford 1.970 peach and apple flavors. Despite being soft on the fin- Pedro Ximénez (Jerez). A sensuous sweet Hyatt 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rattle­ ish, it’s packed with white fruit and tropical fruit flavors. 91 Sherry, this has the full monty of fig, date, licorice, root snake Hills). Black cherry fruit is accented Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. 89 beer and chocolate aromas and flavors. It’s naturally with flavors of coffee grounds and dark chocolate. The abv: 12.5% Price: $20 thick and sweet but also balanced, so it doesn’t come fruit is clean and brambly, and the wine overdelivers for across like a spoonful of syrup. Great as a dessert wine the price. Best Buy. —P.G. with cake or blue cheese, but also as a topping for va- abv: 13.9% Price: $12 SPIRITS nilla or coffee ice cream. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 17% Price: $15/500 ml

Van Gogh Double Espres­ 90 so Vodka (Holland; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). Made with Colombian coffee beans, this vodka bears a strong resemblance to cold-brewed coffee. It has a translu- cent dark-brown color, espresso- and fudge-like aromas, and a good espresso flavor, with an appropriately bitter edge and a faintly minty finish. This Roza Ridge 2009 Syrah (Rattlesnake would be excellent in espresso-tinis 89 Hills). This Syrah bears a gamy accent that and similar coffee cocktails. Hyatt 2009 Merlot (Rattlesnake Hills). overlays the flavors of juicy berries, herbs and spices. abv: 35% Price: $27 90 Smooth and instantly appealing, this estate- A peppery note highlights the clean, crisp finish.Best grown Merlot has a broad, chocolaty palate that’s loaded Buy. —P.G. with cherry fruit. There are peppery, herbal highlights, abv: 13.9% Price: $14 and plenty of lingering, polished tannins. Best Buy. —P.G. Pure Iceberg Ice Infusion abv: 13.9% Price: $12 86 Chocolate Mint Flavored Vodka (Canada; Admiral Imports, Cedar Grove, NJ). New to the mar- ket in fall 2012, this crystal-clear vodka is recommended for its bright aromat- ics, which are similar to peppermint patties or crème de menthe. On the palate, mint is the overwhelmingly dominant flavor. This line of vodka is made with water harvested from ice- Alamos 2010 Red Blend (Mendoza). This bergs that float down the eastern coast 88 is the first blend from Alamos, and it sings a nice of Canada in early summer. tune. Rubbery, slightly medicinal aromas give way to a abv: 35% Price: $15 Washington Hills 2011 Late Harvest Ries­ full, honest, bulky wine. Ripe blackberry and cherry fla- 90 ling (Washington). With 7% residual sugar vors rest in front of a good finish that’s full of vanilla and and 11% alcohol, this is a Riesling to enjoy with spicy chocolate notes. Malbec, Bonarda and Tempranillo are noodle dishes. Sweetness notwithstanding, it’s a sub- the primary grapes. E & J Gallo. Best Buy. —M.S. stantial wine with grip and definition. Melon and peach abv: 13.5% Price: $13 flavors roll smoothly into notes of caramel and honey. This is rich and delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $10

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Shaya 2011 Arindo Verdejo (Rueda). 87 Fresh and fairly perky smelling, this has aromas Hogue 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val­ of lettuce, white flower and peach. It feels smooth but 88 ley). This solid Chardonnay brings green apple not soft, with pear, melon and apple flavors that feed and melon flavors to the forefront, with just a hint of nicely into the healthy finish that seems to bear some re- Orange River Wine Cellars NV Star Tree toast across the back of the palate. Best Buy. —P.G. sidual sweetness. Very nice for simple sipping. Gil Fam- 86 Brut Sparkling Wine (Northern Cape). abv: 13.8% Price: $11 ily Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. This Chenin Blanc-based sparkler is attractively light abv: 13.5% Price: $11 and approachable, with a fruity mélange of peach, pear and lychee aromas and flavors that are jazzed up by hints of sweet grass and pineapple-like acidity. Ripe and lively, it has brisk carbonation and a clean finish. DRG The White Knight 2010 Ries­ Imports. Best Buy. —L.B. 88 ling (Lake County). Made abv: 11% Price: $11 from 100% Lake County-grown Riesling grapes, this opens with sweet aromas of nectar and golden honey. It’s pretty and off dry (30 g/L residual sugar), remaining balance because of its crisp acidity. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $13

Hogue 2011 Pinot Grigio (Columbia Val­ 86 ley). This is a lean, tart, high-acid vintage for Washington State white wines. Hogue’s reliable Pinot Callia 2011 Alta Shiraz (Tulum Valley). Grigio is herbaceous and clean, fresh and tangy. Best Buy. —P.G. 85 Initial tar and asphalt aromas yield to grapy ber- abv: 12.7% Price: $11 ry and earth notes. It feels hard but not real deep, with a short wild-berry flavor that leads to a reasonably good but superficial finish. Juicy and fresh. Palm Bay Interna- tional. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

Atalaya 2010 Laya Old Vines (Alman­ 87 sa). Leather, plum and berry aromas form a nice opening as minty chocolate notes emerge. It feels spunky, with edgy, rubbery tannins and full flavors of Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Zinfandel (Cal­ plum, cherry, mint and herb. Dry and controlled on the 86 ifornia). What Americans need is a good $8 finish, this has an overall fresh character. Mostly Gar- Zinfandel, and what do you know? That’s just what this nacha with some Monastrell. Gil Family Estates. Best is. Dry as dust but sweet in fruit, with all kinds of savory Buy. —M.S. spices, this is the perfect everyday wine for barbecue. Viña Albali 2011 Tempranillo (Valdepe­ abv: 14.5% Price: $9 Production was 8,000 cases, so it shouldn’t be too hard 85 ñas). This opens with a blast of berry fruit and to find. Best Buy. —S.H. a note of spice. It feels bouncy, full and healthy, with abv: 13% Price: $8 black fruits and dark spices comprising the flavor pro- file. The finish is short, but fruity and clean. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

WineMag.com | 13 Lake Sonoma 2011 Chardonnay (Rus­ creamy wine. Brightened with acidity, it will appeal to 87 sian River Valley). This shows the balanced plenty of Chardonnay fans. —S.H. BEST BUYS richness and price sensitivity that Lake Sonoma usually abv: 13.5% Price: $15 displays. It has the delicious apricot and tangerine fruits and oak quality of more expensive wines, without quite Baron Herzog 2010 Chardonnay (Central the depth or complexity. —S.H. 84 Coast). This is a soft, simple Chardonnay. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $17 rich in orange, mango and apricot flavors, with a touch of buttery oak. —S.H. Olabisi 2010 Chappell Vineyard Char­ abv: NA Price: $13 87 donnay (Napa Valley). Rich enough to drink now, this is dryish, crisply acidic and creamy, with pine- Chalone 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Chal­ apple sour candy and butterscotch flavors. —S.H. 84 one). This is overoaked, with buttered toast, abv: 14.5% Price: $38 caramel and sweet vanilla flavors dominating everything else. Buried beneath the oak are crisp flavors of pine- J. Garcia Carrion 2011 Opera Prima Tem­ Patz & Hall 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma apples and oranges. —S.H. 84 pranillo (La Mancha). Good berry aromas 87 Coast). Oaky and seemingly sweet, this is a abv: 14.5% Price: $25 come with a hint of spice. It feels peppy and high toned, showy wine whose appeal comes from its ripeness and with a zesty, quick rush of black cherry and plum flavors. richness. Vanilla and buttered toast notes from the oak Grayson 2011 Lot 11 Chardonnay (Cali­ It finishes in a flash, leaving little in its wake. Colección dominate the tropical fruit and pineapple flavors. With 84 fornia). An everyday Chardonay, this is seem- Internacional del Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. its creamy, buttery mouthfeel, this is made to appeal to ingly sweet and fruity, with pineapple, vanilla and but- abv: 12.5% Price: $6 fans of the modern Chardonnay style. —S.H. tered toast flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35 abv: 13.1% Price: $11

Patz & Hall 2010 Hudson Vineyard Char­ ZD 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Carne­ 87 donnay (Carneros). With its flavors of but- 84 ros). There’s not much going on here beyond CORRECTIONS terscotch, vanilla, pineapple and peach jam, this is a rich lots of smoky, caramelized oak and some easy peach and wine that will appeal to fans of creamy, oaky Chardon- citrus flavors. A touch of unripeness is also found. Char- On page 114 of the August issue, Gilles Arzur, execu- nays. —S.H. donnnay has not been ZD’s strong suit, and still isn’t. tive chef of Beverly Wilshire, was incorrectly credited abv: 14.2% Price: $55 —S.H. as being affiliated with CUT by Wolfgang Puck.We re- abv: 14.3% Price: $55 gret the error. Saddleback Cellars 2010 Chardonnay 87 (Napa Valley). Made in the popular style, this JustNat 2010 Natalie’s Crown Reserve has flavors of pineapple and orange jam, buttered toast 83 Chardonnay (Dry Creek Valley). The and buttered popcorn. Its acidity and firm minerality basic Chardonnay here is nice, with citrus, pear and NEXT MONTH save it from seeming sweet. —S.H. pineapple fruit flavors. But the oak weighs heavily, abv: 14.5% Price: $29 bringing a caramelized, butterscotch candy sweetness. HERE’S WHAT’S COMING UP IN WINE Lots of people will like it for exactly that reason. —S.H. ENTHUSIAST'S DECEMBER MAGAZINE: Boheme 2010 English Hill Vineyard Char­ abv: 13.5% Price: $18 86 donnay (Sonoma Coast). Dry, brisk in acid- Top 100 Cellar Selections of 2012 ity and ripe, this has stimulating minerality that under- Butterfly Kiss 2010 Chardonnay (Califor­ The vast majority of consumers pop and pour a bottle of girds the fruit flavors of Meyer lemon, lime and guava. 82 nia). A simple Chardonnay, this tastes sweet wine within 48 hours of purchasing it. But for those with But what dominates is the hugeness of size and the rich- in white sugared pineapple, orange and mango juices. patience, our essential list highlights the ness that goes on and on. —S.H. —S.H. top 100 selections­ worth stashing away for a ­decade or abv: 14.3% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 longer. Groth 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Wine Spots 2010 Chardonnay (Mon­ Misconceptions of Vintage Port 86 This is too oaky, with vanilla, buttered toast and 82 terey). This is thin and tart, but it shows enough Think vintage Port is only for old fuddy-duddies? butterscotch notes dominating the underlying pineap- Chardonnay flavor, with simple fruit and smoked butter Think again. By debunking common myths about this ple and guava flavors. —S.H. flavors. —S.H. Portuguese fortified wine, we reveal just how abv: 14.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 versatile modern vintage Port can be. 16X20 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma A Wolfgang Puck Holiday Feast 85 Coast). Ripe flavors of orange and tropical PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO In an exclusive interview, renowned chef, restaurateur fruit jam abound, with a buttered toast richness from Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Pinot and television personality Wolfgang Puck shares his fa- the oak. Its appeal is all upfront, with a simple, popular 90 Gris (Edna Valley). For full review see page vorite holiday traditions, home entertaining tips and sweetness. —S.H. 8. Editors’ Choice. modern riffs on classic, festive dishes. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $17

HandCraft 2011 Chardonnay (California). Claiborne & Churchill 2011 Pinot Gris 85 If you like your Chardonnay on the fruity side, 87 (Central Coast). Dry and brisk in acidity, this this one’s for you. It’s rich in pineapple, orange and apri- comes with a big burst of citrus fruit, green apple and cot jam flavors, with notes of buttered toast and cream. spice flavors. Nice as an apéritif or paired with Asian —S.H. fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Steelhead Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Pinot 85 (Sonoma County). There are lots of rich, ripe 87 Gris (Livermore Valley). Slightly austere, vanilla, buttered toast and tropical fruit flavors in this this Pinot Gris is marked by aromas of orange blossom

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 and cheese rind, with a crispness on the finish that re- with pretty orange, peach, vanilla and honeysuckle fla- courtesy of the chilly vintage. It’s best described as tast- sembles a ripe, green apple. —V.B. vors. It would benefit from greater acidity, though, as it’s ing like a sweet-and-sour Chinese sauce. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 a bit soft. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Chalk Hill 2010 North Slope Pinot Gris Ruby Red 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (North 86 (Chalk Hill). There’s plenty of ripe, sweet Coquelicot 2010 Riesling (Santa Ynez 85 Coast). This tastes sweet and clean, with man- pineapple, orange and lime flavors in this wine, which is 84 Valley). With apricot and citrus flavors, this go, peach and orange flavors that are brightened with brightened by crisp acidity. It tastes a little on the sweet Riesling tastes off-dry, with a honeyed sweetness. It’s a zesty acidity. —S.H. side, but feels sophisticated. —S.H. little green around the edges, which detracts from the abv: 13.1% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 pleasure. —S.H. Clif Family 2011 Rte. Blanc Sauvignon abv: 13.8% Price: $22 Rose ’N’ Blum 2011 Pinot Grigio (Cali­ 84 Blanc (Napa Valley). A little too sweet, this 86 fornia). This tastes a little sweet, in the Rosen- has candied flavors of lemon, lime and vanilla. Brisk blum style, with apricot, orange and pear flavors. But SAUVIGNON BLANC acidity provides balance, but it would be better if it fin- it’s nicely crisp in acidity, which gives it a clean finish. ished drier. —S.H. Delightful now as a cocktail sipper. —S.H. Del Dotto 2011 Cinghiale Vineyard Sauvi­ abv: 14.1% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 92 gnon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). Bone dry and crisp, this is rich in New Zealand-like gooseberry flavor, Groth 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val­ Butterfly Kiss 2011 Pinot Grigio (Califor­ making it mouthwateringly savory. Yet it’s entirely Cali- 84 ley). The cold 2011 vintage has taken its toll 85 nia). This is easy to drink, with crisp, mouthwa- fornian with its notes of ripe pear, peach and pineapple. on this wine. It’s bone dry, crisp in acidity and not quite tering acidity that brightens the lemon, lime and tropi- An elegant wine to drink now, this would make for an ripe, with its citrus and tropical fruit flavors compro- cal fruit flavors. It’s slightly sweet, but not overtly so— elegant apéritif. —S.H. mised by a touch of green bean. —S.H. just enough to pair with Asian-inspired fare. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $49 abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Clos La Chance 2011 Reserve Sauvi­ Clif Family 2011 The Climber Sauvignon Cable Car 2010 Pinot Grigio (California). 88 gnon Blanc (Central Coast). This brisk and 82 Blanc (California). The cold vintage left this 84 A simple Pinot Grigio with a soft, fruity nose, wine tasting unripe. It has green, vegetal streaks of mint this has a tropical and seemingly sweet personality. It’s refreshing wine never saw a splinter of oak, so what stars are the pure, ripe flavors of tropical and citrus fruits, and green pea, but tastes oddly sweet, like a citrus candy fresh tasting and fine for a party. —V.B. coughdrop. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $10 lemongrass, honey and a hint of white pepper. The abv: 13.5% Price: $14 acidity gives it a keen, clean finish. This would be great hy.brid 2011 Pinot Grigio (Lodi). with everything from roast chicken to Vietnamese food. This Mario Bazán 2010 Sauvignon Blanc blend of 75% Pinot Grigio and 15% Vermen- —S.H. 83 (Napa Valley). Lots of unripe, green flavors tino is a light, simple quaff with some snap to it and not abv: 13.5% Price: $22 82 compromise this wine. Although it’s nicely dry and acid- much on the finish. —V.B. ic, with a good citrus flavor, it has a green bean note and abv: 12.3% Price: $8 Del Dotto 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruth­ a sourness that’s hard to enjoy. —S.H. erford). A fine wine to drink now, this has the 88 abv: 14% Price: $25 dryness that suggests pairing it with goat cheese. It has RIESLING rich flavors of gooseberries, limes and vanilla, with a lit- The White Knight 2010 Riesling (Lake tle smokiness from the oak. —S.H. VIOGNIER County). For full review see page 13. Best abv: 14.7% Price: $39 88 Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Viognier Buy. (Edna Valley). For full review see page 8. Edi- abv: 13.3% Price: $13 Gary Farrell 2011 Russian River Selec­ 92 tion Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Val­ tors’ Choice. 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 V. Sattui 2011 Secco Riesling (Napa Val­ ley). The winemaker took a Chardonnay approach, giv- ley). It’s called Secco, according to the winery, ing the wine lots of barrel fermentation and lees aging. 88 Clos La Chance 2011 Reserve Viognier because it’s completely dry. Maybe so, but there’s plenty The result is a rich, softly textured 100% Sauvignon (Central Coast). A very rich Viognier, this of honeyed richness in this delightful Riesling. It shows Blanc, with lime, kiwi and vanilla flavors, wrapped into 88 a wealth of delicious, easy-drinking flavors of orange, has massive flavors of tropical fruit, peach, pear, vanilla a creamy, buttery mouthfeel. —S.H. bean and buttered toast. The ripe fruit comes at the cost apricot, Key lime pie and vanilla. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $25 of very high alcohol. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $22 V. Sattui 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Claiborne & Churchill 2010 Dry Riesling Valley). This straddles the border between (Edna Valley). Dryish and tart in acidity, this 86 Rock Wall 2011 Kristen’s Viognier, Nel­ 87 tasting dry and slightly sweet. It has good acidity, with has flavors of citrus, tropical fruit, Asian pear and green 88 son Ranch Viognier (Mendocino Coun­ flavors of citrus, mint green tea and vanilla. —S.H. apple, marked by that distinctly Riesling note of diesel ty). This has flavors and aromas of hazelnut, dried apri- abv: 14.6% Price: $22 fuel. —S.H. cot and coconut in between layers of lush white peach. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Overall, this is very pretty and well balanced. Its light- Markham 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa handed finish is floral and tropical, without a sign of oak. Valley). V. Sattui 2011 Dry Riesling (Napa Valley). 85 Tasting a little on the sweet side, this is —V.B. 87 Although dry, it seems semisweet, with a hon- rich in citrus, apricot, pear and peach flavors. It will pair abv: 14% Price: $20 eyed richness to the peach, citrus and vanilla flavors. As well with Asian fare, or with a savory salad of greens, Rieslings go, it’s soft, compared to German versions, but goat cheese and grapefruit. —S.H. Adelaida 2010 The Glenrose Vineyard easy to drink for a weekend brunch. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15 86 Viognier (Paso Robles). This veers toward abv: 12.5% Price: $20 the sweet side of Viognier, with pineapple, apricot, or- Novy 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian ange and honeysuckle flavors. The sweetness is bal- V. Sattui 2011 Riesling (Anderson Valley). 85 River Valley). This is exotic in grapefruit, apri- anced by firm acidity. —S.H. 86 There’s lots of sweetness in this polished wine, cot and honey flavors, with a green veggie streak that’s abv: 14.9% Price: $35

WineMag.com | 15 WHITE BLENDS Zocker 2011 Paragon Vineyard Grüner as fine satin. Flavorwise, it’s enormously rich, suggest- 89 Veltliner (Edna Valley). This tastes sweeter ing oranges, limes, honey, vanilla, toast and the sweet, Davis Family 2009 Cuvee Luke (Sierra than the very fine 2009 and 2010, but that may be be- yeasty doughiness of a brioche pastry. Really gorgeous, 90 Foothills). This is a deliciously fruity, nutty cause the fruit is so powerfully intense and pure. It has a worthy followup to the fabulous 2005 La Rêve. —S.H. Roussanne-Marsanne-Viognier blend with a marzi- flavors of ripe tangerines, limes, peaches and apples, abv: 12% Price: $95 pan-like flavor. It has a light texture, good balance and made racy by its acidity. No oak has been applied, so the a deep, honey finish, proving to be a great example of wine tastes fresh. —S.H. Chandon NV Étoile Brut (Napa-Sonoma). what the Sierra Foothills can do with Rhône varieties. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 93 For full review see page 6. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 13.9% Price: $26 Stark 2011 Saarloos Vineyard Grenache 88 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This is brisk in Chandon 2006 Brut (Mount Veeder). Made La Clarine Farm 2011 White Blend (Sierra acidity and entirely dry, with the low-alcohol auster- 93 mostly from Chardonnay, with a touch of Pinot 88 Foothills). A new wine from La Clarine Farm, ity of the cool 2011 vintage. The flavors are good but Noir, this is so rich and creamy, it’s like satin gliding this is a blend of 37% Sémillon, 32% Viognier and 31% elusive, suggesting cherry skin, smoked ham, tobacco, across the mouth, carrying waves of lemon- and lime-in- Marsanne. Unusual to say the least, it bears an interest- fresh herb and white pepper. —S.H. fused buttercream, brioche and a smoky flavor. It feels ing melange of herbs, flowers, pears and honey, finish- abv: 13.2% Price: $28 classy and delicious from the first sniff to the seemingly ing light and inviting to drink. The minerality in particu- sweet finish. —S.H. lar shines through, making this easy to pair with a wide Claiborne & Churchill 2011 Dry Gewurz­ abv: 13% Price: $45 range of appetizers and seafood. —V.B. 87 traminer (Central Coast). Picture perfect abv: 13.3% Price: $22 Gewürz, this is crisp and incredibly flavorful, with notes Chandon 2007 Vintage Brut (Yountville). of grapefruits, Asian pears and tropical fruits, exotic 92 Rich and smooth, this has complex flavors of Adelaida 2010 The Glenrose Vineyard spices, wild honeysuckle and vanilla. While the label raspberry, almond biscotti, lime and vanilla, with a 87 Version (Paso Robles). Made from Rous- says it’s dry, it’s rich in honey and butter flavors. —S.H. smoky note. The texture shows real finesse. Made from sanne and Grenache Blanc, this is an undeniably deli- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it’s a first class bubbly. cious, rather sweet white wine. This is so huge in or- —S.H. ange, guava and nectarine flavors, but it’s also a bit high Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Dry Chenin abv: 13% Price: $45 in alcohol, which gives it a jalapeño-like heat. —S.H. 87 Blanc (Clarksburg). Dry Creek has made abv: 14.8% Price: $35 yet another delicious Chenin Blanc at a screaming fair Domaine Carneros NV Cuvée de la Pom­ price. Pleasantly and conservatively sweet in smell and 90 padour Brut Rosé (Carneros). Made from Ehret 2011 White Table Wine Meritage taste, it shows nice melon and pineapple flavors, with a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this is one of the winery’s 87 (Knights Valley). Composed mainly of Sémil- fresh, creamy texture. Fermented in stainless steel, the best Pompadours of the last four years. It’s rich and de- lon, with some Sauvignon Blanc blended in, this is a wine has 0.6% residual sugar. Best Buy. —V.B. licious, with yeasty flavors of raspberries, strawberries, nice wine for drinking now. It’s full-bodied and tastes abv: 12.5% Price: $12 vanilla, toast and honey. It’s beautiful to drink now with dryish to semi-sweet, with apricot, peach and citrus fruit pâté, scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. —S.H. flavors. —S.H. Tangent 2011 Paragon Vineyard Albariño abv: 12% Price: $36 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 87 (Edna Valley). Racy and intensely flavored, this is high in acidity and has spectacularly concentrated V. Sattui 2009 Prestige Cuvée Brut (Napa Trenza 2010 Blanco (Edna Valley). Made flavors of apple, peach, citrus and tropical fruit. With no 90 Valley). This is easy to like for its clean, brisk 87 from the folks behind Tangent, this blend of oak at all, the fruit stars—pure and clean. Even though mouthfeel, creaminess and slightly sweet flavors of lime Grenache Blanc and Albariño is rich in orange, white the residual sugar is technically zero, the finish tastes and strawberry. Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, flower and roasted almond flavors, brightened by zesty sweet, so pair it with slightly sweet foods, especially it shows real finesse. —S.H. Edna Valley acidity. The oak brings a smoky creaminess Vietnamese, Chinese or Thai. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 and also some caramelized sweetness. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Chandon NV Blanc de Noirs (California). hy.brid 2011 Vermentino (Lodi). This 89 While this bubbly is technically dry, it tastes Apothic 2011 Winemaker’s Blend (Cali­ 83 weighty Vermentino has splashes of Sauvignon sweetly infused with the essence of strawberries and 84 fornia). Made in the popular style, this blend of Blanc and Pinot Grigio. It tastes as though it spent a vanilla. The mouthfeel is fine, with a gentle scouring Chardonnay, Riesling and Moscato has honeyed flavors great amount of time in barrel, however the aging vessel of acidity and the slight sourness from its lees. Drink it of oranges, apricots and vanilla. —S.H. is listed as 100% stainless steel. —V.B. now with almost anything, especially sushi. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.8% Price: $8 abv: 13% Price: $22

Stark Raving NV White (California). With Domaine Carneros 2008 Brut (Carneros). 82 orange and peach flavors, this blend of Char- SPARKLING WINES 88 Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it’s a lit- tle scouring and rough, but it shows dry sparkling wine donnay, Muscat and Malvasia is a simple, sweet-tasting Chandon 2001 Étoile Tête de Cuvée (Na­ flavors of doughy yeast, strawberries, vanilla and toast. wine. —S.H. pa-Sonoma). A toasty yeast note has taken 95 —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 center stage of this blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir abv: 12.6% Price: $27 and Pinot Meunier, providing that uniquely Cham- OTHER WHITE WINES pagne-like accent to California’s ripe strawberry, rasp- Chandon NV Étoile Rosé (North Coast). berry and lime flavors. Despite the ripe fruit flavors, the 87 Lots of ripe raspberry, strawberry and lime fla- Blue Plate 2011 Dry Chenin Blanc finish is dry and tart in acidity. It gets even better as it vors are found in this sweetish blush bubbly. It’s brisk 89 (Clarksburg). This bottling is even better warms in the glass, displaying compelling complexities. in acidity, with a nice doughiness, although it could be than the 2010: drier, crisper and more elegant, without —S.H. smoother. —S.H. a trace of sweetness. It’s balanced, with a long finish that abv: 13% Price: $100 abv: 13% Price: $40 should pair well with any kind of spiced food. Best Buy. —V.B. Domaine Carneros 2006 Le Rêve (Carne­ Chandon NV Reserve Blanc de Blancs abv: 12% Price: $11 95 ros). Made entirely from Chardonnay, it shows 87 (Sonoma-Napa). This shows real Chardon- real delicacy and richness, with a mousse as smooth nay character with its pure, crisp essence of lime and

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 orange that marks this smoky, slightly sweet bubbly. It’s Noir Foxen has ever made, and guess what? It’s also flavors of cherry and red currant. Drink it over the next a little rough around the edges, but fine for drinking the winery’s best. It bears rich flavors, offering tiers of six years. —S.H. now. —S.H. smoky cherries, red currants, licorice candies, vanilla, abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 13% Price: $30 sandalwood and spices. What’s harder to describe is the sheer beauty of the texture and balance. Containing the Benovia 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Chandon NV Reserve Brut (Sonoma-Na­ explosive richness of a wine like this is a challenge, but 92 Coast). For full review see page 7. 87 pa). A bit rough and scouring, this is also overt- winemaker Bill Wathan has managed to bring elegance abv: 14.2% Price: $38 ly sweet in raspberry jam flavor. Mostly composed of Pi- to its power. The wine is high in alcohol, and it’s not ad- not Noir, the 20% Chardonnay brings refreshing acidity, visable to age it beyond 3 or 4 years, but it is incredibly Foxen 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Block like a squeeze of lime. —S.H. delicious. —S.H. 92 8 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This is abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 15.2% Price: $85 a big, ripe, full-bodied Pinot Noir—as big as the variety gets in California. But it never loses balance, by virtue of Chandon NV Reserve Pinot Noir Rosé Foxen 2010 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot the brisk acids, silkiness and dry finish. This wine always 87 (Sonoma-Napa-Mendocino). Plenty of 94 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Few winemakers in impresses for its sheer, Incredible Hulk volume. Drink strawberry, raspberry, lime, vanilla and yeasty flavors Santa Barbara County understand better than Bill Wa- now–2015. —S.H. abound in this sparkler, which is almost off-dry in its than how to let the terroir of individual vineyards shine, abv: 14.8% Price: $58 sweetness. A fine burst of citrusy acidity helps to pro- while still providing consumers with a delicious drink- vide balance. —S.H. ing experience. This bottling shows the juicy, ripe fla- Phillips Hill 2010 Two Terroirs Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $30 vors one expects from Dijon clones, with flashy notes of 92 (Mendocino). Phillips Hill’s Two Terroirs is raspberries, cherries and currants. It’s balanced in crisp very subtly marked “AV + MR,” signaling that the fruit Chandon NV Brut Classic (California). acidity, and there’s a tangy, dry minerality. Drink now– was sourced from both the cool Anderson Valley and 86 This is sweet, soft and easy to drink, despite its 2016. —S.H. even cooler Mendocino Ridge. It’s lightly earthy and re- scoury mouthfeel. It has fruity raspberry, strawberry abv: 14.3% Price: $60 splendent in bright, just-ripe cherry tones. Gorgeously and lime flavors. —S.H. crisp, with undeniable structure, this is ready to drink, abv: 13% Price: $22 Baxter 2009 Oppenlander Vineyard Pi­ but it would also shine in a few years time. —V.B. 93 not Noir (Mendocino). Structured and fully abv: 13.9% Price: $40 Rose ’N’ Blum 2011 Pink Moscato (Cal­ developed, this showcases the strong 2009 vintage, the 86 ifornia). This rides the Moscato craze with a Oppenlander Vineyard and the brilliance that is Baxter. Baxter 2009 Langley Vineyard Pinot Noir wine that could be sweet enough to classify as a dessert Marked by bright black-cherry fruit and a heady per- 91 (Anderson Valley). With tangy acidity and sipper, but let’s call it off-dry. It has jammy raspberry fume of rose, this carries itself with elegance and a light complex flavors, this is easily the best of Baxter’s three and apricot flavors, with a hint of orange zest. Best of touch. This is Pinot Noir purposely made to pair with 2009 releases. The raspberry and cherry flavors vie with all is the acidity, which is so clean and balancing. —S.H. food. —V.B. an earthier note of mushroom, and there’s a savory edge abv: 10.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 of balsam and cola. The oak is evident, but has been adroitly applied. Dry and silky, this is capable of aging Chandon NV Rosé (California). A simple, Boheme 2009 English Hill Vineyard Pinot for several years in a cellar. —S.H. 84 sweet blush bubbly, this is rough in texture, with 93 Noir (Sonoma Coast). This single-vineyard abv: 14.7% Price: $45 raspberry, strawberry and vanilla flavors. It should be wine is a little plodding and direct now. It’s dry and acid- fine with wedding cake. —S.H. ic, with high-toned flavors of cranberry and sour cherry Clos La Chance 2009 Erwin Vineyard abv: 13% Price: $22 candy that turn heavy and seemingly sweet as you swal- 91 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This low. —S.H. is made in a lighter, breezier style, but there’s noth- abv: 14.7% Price: $50 ing light about the flavors, which suggest raspberries, ROSÉS grilled Canadian bacon, softened cola and smoky san- Baiocchi Wines 2011 Neophyte Rosé Boheme 2009 Taylor Ridge Vineyard Pi­ dalwood. Gentle and easy, with a silky feel, this shows 90 (Fair Play). A blend of 70% Grenache and 93 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Enormously at- lots of class and elegance. Ready to drink. —S.H. 30% Mourvèdre, this is an invitingly juicy and spicy tractive, this has a rich, creamy texture and complex abv: 14.5% Price: $50 rosé, packed with strawberry-mint and pomegranate flavors. Notes of raspberries, cherries, Dr. Pepper and Del Dotto 2009 Cinghiale Vineyard Pinot flavors and a long, savory finish. It’s a great introduction persimmons flood the palate, riding a wave of spice, Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is big in fruit, big to this winery and its talent for creating Rhône-inspired smoky oak and a beautiful touch of mushroomy earthi- 91 in tannins and big in the overall impression it leaves. wines. —V.B. ness. This is a first class Pinot Noir, with food-friendly abv: 15% Price: $18 elegance. —S.H. It’s enormously rich and ripe in cherry, red currant and abv: 14.5% Price: $50 cola, sprinkled with dusty exotic spice and a hint of for- Adelaida 2011 Version Rosé (Paso Ro­ est herb. The vineyard is the former Maritime Vineyard 84 bles). A heavy, sweet rosé, this is made from Foxen 2010 Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir of the W.H. Smith Winery, whose Pinot Noirs were Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. The flavors are of 93 (Santa Maria Valley). This is classic Santa magnificent and scored highly. This one seems a little raspberries, vanilla and toast. —S.H. Maria Valley Pinot Noir, with its dark color, full body, heavier than Smith used to produce. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 ripe berry and currant flavors and, especially, the array abv: 14.6% Price: $75 of exotic crushed brown spices. New French oak brings Butterfly Kiss 2011 Pink Pinot Grigio lots of smoky, buttery, toasty richness. Great to drink Gary Farrell 2009 Hallberg Vineyard Pi­ 81 (California). This is a heavy, soft, jammy wine now with tuna, salmon, lamb and beef dishes. —S.H. 91 not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re- that’s sweet in raspberry- and strawberry-jam flavors. abv: 14.7% Price: $58 view see page 9. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 abv: 13% Price: $12 Robert Mondavi 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir 93 (Carneros). Mondavi’s best Pinot Noir in Siduri 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. many years, this shows the chilliness of the vintage in 91 Rita Hills). The wine’s natural acidity, purity of PINOT NOIR its acidity and leanness, but it’s a vital, beautiful auster- texture and gentleness automatically make you think of ity, like a fighter in training with zero body fat. At the food. Flavorwise, it’s all about raspberries and cherries, Foxen 2010 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir (Sta. same time, it proves to be flashy and elegant, with rich cured meat, cola, spices and smoky oak. It’s delicious 96 Rita Hills). This is the most expensive Pinot

WineMag.com | 17 to drink now with a great steak, roasted lamb or grilled for its dry, silky mouthfeel and rich flavors of crushed ward and tasty, with a tart edge of spicy licorice. Drink tuna. —S.H. red cherries, cola and spices. It’s an elegant wine with it now for maximum freshness. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 good acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 15.4% Price: $35 Siduri 2010 Ewald Vineyard Pinot Noir V. Sattui 2010 Henry Ranch Pinot Noir 91 (Russian River Valley). Made in the Siduri Baileyana 2009 Grand Firepeak Cuvée 88 (Los Carneros). Right out of the bottle, this is style of immediate accessibility, this is medium bod- 88 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Classic Edna Val- tight, but airing coaxes out plenty of cherry, currant and ied and silky, with crisp, citrusy acids brightening the ley Pinot Noir, this shows brisk acidity, modest alcohol tart persimmon flavors, with a pretty mouthfeel. Give ripe raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s complex and elegant and keen cherry, raspberry and ripe persimmon flavors. this some time in the decanter to breathe and mellow. enough to drink with great steaks and chops. —S.H. The tannins are smooth and supportive, the texture el- —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $48 egant and silky. It will show maximum freshness over abv: 13.5% Price: $39 the next 2–3 years. —S.H. Windsor Oaks 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir abv: 14.1% Price: $30 Wine Spots 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 91 (Russian River Valley). Textbook Russian 88 For full review see page 11. River Pinot Noir, this is bone dry, elegant and lightly Boheme 2009 Stuller Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $25 silky, with complex flavors of sour cherry candy, cola and 88 (Sonoma Coast). Intellectual, elusive and sandalwood. Drink now–2015. —S.H. challenging, this wine makes you think. It’s dry, silky and Baxter 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val­ abv: 14.4% Price: $35 crisp in acidity, with complex mushroom, cherry, cola 87 ley). There’s lots of forward raspberry, cherry and cedar flavors. It’s also a little rustic, but time could and pomegranate fruit in this soft, lush wine. Oak brings Patz & Hall 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma help. If you’re a gambler, hold it until after 2015. —S.H. an additional layer of richness. It’s delicious—like toast 90 Coast). There’s lots to like in this Pinot Noir, abv: 14.3% Price: $45 spread with butter and jam—but a little one-dimension- which is a blend of fine vineyards throughout the appel- al. However, it’s a wonderful dimension to explore now. lation. It’s dry, silky and tart, with flavors of wild cherry, Claiborne & Churchill 2009 Pinot Noir —S.H. cranberry, softened cola, sautéed mushroom and new 88 (Edna Valley). This is classic Edna Valley Pi- abv: 14.2% Price: $35 oak. Give it a bit of decanting. —S.H. not Noir: dry, light bodied, with crisp acidity, modest al- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 cohol and forward flavors of raspberry, cherry and cola. Baxter 2009 Run Dog Vineyard Pinot Noir Production was just shy of 2,500 cases. —S.H. 87 (Anderson Valley). This shows both the fi- Rodney Strong 2010 Estate Vineyards Pi­ abv: 13.8% Price: $25 nesse of the Anderson Valley and the ’09 vintage that 90 not Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re- was so kind to coastal Pinot Noir. It has rich flavors of view see page 10. Claiborne & Churchill 2009 Runestone cherry jam and ripe pomegranate, with fine acidity, but abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). there’s an excessive oakiness that gives it a toothpicky Crisp in acidity, this is a fruit-driven wine, with rich fla- sweetness. —S.H. Siduri 2010 Sonatera Vineyard Pinot Noir vors of raspberries and cherries. Lots of new French oak abv: 14.7% Price: $45 90 (Sonoma Coast). Crisp and vibrant, this is adds even richer notes of vanilla and buttered toast. It’s also rich and flashy. It has the essence of ripe, wild rasp- as ripe as any Pinot Noir in the world. —S.H. Chalone 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Chal­ berries that are spiced and smoked up in oak, leaving abv: 13.9% Price: $40 87 one). Red cherry, red currant, mushroom and you dazzled by its allure. —S.H. sandalwood flavors mark this appealing wine. Bone dry, abv: 14.1% Price: $48 Dunstan 2009 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir with good acidity, it’s a fine wine to drink now, but it 88 (Sonoma Coast). Made in the rich, forward, should also age for quite some time, without necessarily Amelle 2008 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir jammy style, this boasts a flavor of black raspberry jam. gaining in complexity. —S.H. 89 (Russian River Valley). Try giving this Pinot It’s oaky, too, with a veneer of buttered cinnamon toast. abv: 14.5% Price: $37 Noir 5–6 years in the cellar. It’s not that it’s undrinkable This is a Pinot Noir that’s easy to drink now. —S.H. now, but it’s immature, offering just a hint of what it abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled wants to be. The fruit is ripe and jammy, suggesting red 87 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). This is dry, tart and cherries and pomegranates, and the acidity is juicy and Patz & Hall 2010 Chenoweth Ranch Pi­ a little one-dimensional, yet elegant, offering red cherry tart. Pinots from this vineyard are known to age well. 88 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Rich, full- and cola flavors and a wintertime taste of Christmas per- Cellar Selection. —S.H. bodied and heavy, this is dramatic in its own way. It’s simmons. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $41 certainly ripe and thick, with a flavor of black raspberry abv: 14.5% Price: $40 jam and a touch of milk chocolate. The high alcohol is Windsor Oaks 2007 2 Dijon Clones Pinot suggestive of cherry liqueur. But that’s been the Che- Domaine Carneros 2010 Pinot Noir 89 Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s lots noweth Ranch signature for years. Drink now. —S.H. 87 (Carneros). Bone dry and tart in acidity, this of ripe, pure fruit in this wine, suggesting sour cherry abv: 14.8% Price: $58 has tobacco, sour cherry and crushed black-pepper fla- candy, cranberries and red licorice. Texturally, it’s softly vors. While it doesn’t show much richness, it’s silky and silky, and the finish is dry. High alcohol shows up on the Phillips Hill 2010 Oppenlander Vineyard elegant on the palate, with a certain earthy complexity. finish as a not unpleasant jalapeño-like warmth. —S.H. 88 Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Made in a more ex- Foods, such as lamb, steak and salmon, will certainly abv: 15.5% Price: $35 tracted, fuller style, this is overwhelmingly earthy and coax out more flavors than the wine delivers by itself. intensely aromatic. Its time in oak has not quite shaken —S.H. Windsor Oaks 2007 3 Dijon Clones Pinot off entirely, and its fruit expression veers on the darker abv: 14.2% Price: $35 89 Noir (Russian River Valley). This is pretty side, with notes of black cherries and blueberries stand- tasty in cherries, cola and licorice, with a nice, silky tex- ing out the most. An herbal aura lingers around. —V.B. Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Pinot Noir ture. It’s a polished wine that finishes dry and spicy, with abv: 13.9% Price: $42 87 (Carneros). A very rich Pinot Noir, this tastes a sweet oak note on the finish. A little one dimensional, almost as heavy as pie filling. It’s delicious, tasting of but it could develop bottle complexity over the next 6–7 Sebastiani 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv­ brown sugar, ripe black cherry and pie spice, with a but- years. —S.H. 88 er Valley). This is the richest and most satis- tery toast note from oak barrels. It’s a little soft, so drink abv: 14.5% Price: $35 fying of the winery’s four 2010 Pinot Noirs. It’s not an up. —S.H. ager, but the flavors of raspberry and cherry jam are for- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Windsor Oaks 2007 Clone 459 Pinot Noir 89 (Russian River Valley). This is easy to like

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Windsor Oaks 2007 Clone 777 Pinot Noir wine. This is a real outlier among MacPhail’s other 2010 Diamond Creek 2009 Red Rock Terrace 87 (Russian River Valley). Showing red cherry, Pinot Noirs. —S.H. 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­ cola and spice flavors, this is very dry and silky, like a abv: 14.5% Price: $59 tain). For full review see page 4. Russian River Pinot Noir should be. It’s elegant, feel- abv: 14.1% Price: $175 ing smooth and clean on the palate. Drink now. —S.H. Sebastiani 2010 Pinot Noir (Carne­ abv: 14.4% Price: $35 85 ros). Easy and uncomplicated, this is dry, Kadiem 2009 Inaugural Vintage Cabernet light-bodied and fine in acidity, with flavors of sour 95 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review Costa de Oro 2010 Reserva Oro Rojo cherry candy, cola and smoky oak. —S.H. see page 4. Cellar Selection. 86 Estate Gold Coast Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.3% Price: $26 abv: 14.4% Price: $85 (Santa Maria Valley). This tastes a little unripe, with a green mint and vegetal streak that cuts across the fla- Windsor Oaks 2007 Clone 667 Pinot Noir Silverado 2009 Solo Cabernet Sauvi­ vors of raspberry and sweet toasty oak. Rich meats and 85 (Russian River Valley). A vegetal touch 95 gnon (Stags Leap District). In a good vin- cheeses will help tame the acids. It doesn’t seem to be marks this wine, which otherwise shows flavors of sour tage, which 2009 was, Silverado’s Solo bottling is always an ager, so drink up. —S.H. cherry candy and rhubarb. —S.H. worthy of aging. It would be a tragedy to open this 100% abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Cabernet before 2018, and even then it might be too early. Dry and full bodied, this offers complex black- MooBuzz 2011 Pinot Noir (Monterey). Steelhead Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir berry and cassis flavors, with a grounding herbal quality 86 This shows classic coastal crispness and delica- 84 (Sonoma County). Soft and simple, this is suggestive of sage. The tannins are profound, making cy, with a silkiness that makes it feel easy on the palate. seemingly sweet and easy to drink now for its wealth of the wine tight now. Cellar Selection. —S.H. It’s also delicious in flavors of cherries, bacon, cola and raspberry, cherry, mocha and spice flavors. The texture abv: 13.9% Price: $100 spices. The blend happens to be fattened up by Sangio- is light and silky. A portion of the profits goes to trout vese, Tempranillo and Syrah Editors’ Choice. —S.H. and salmon watershed restoration efforts. —S.H. Summers 2009 Checkmate Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.3% Price: $15 95 Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). For full review see page 4. Sebastiani 2010 Robert’s Vineyard Pinot Terra Valentine 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: 14.2% Price: $100 86 Noir (Carneros). This lacks Pinot’s velvety 84 Coast). A green, vegetal note marks the berry richness, substituting instead an irregular mouthfeel and cola flavors. It’s a big, sturdy wine that’s high in al- Clark-Clauden 2009 Eternity Cabernet due in part to unripe, green tannins. Makes up for it cohol and slightly warm, with considerable tannins. It 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With elaborate with a wealth of raspberry and cherry jam flavors and a doesn’t seem likely to improve with age. —S.H. oak, concentrated fruit, dense tannins and exquisite bal- sweet oak note. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 ance, this tiny production Cabernet—the winery’s first- abv: 15.1% Price: $45 ever reserve—demands to be cellared. It’s complete- Lost Angel 2011 Pinot Noir (California). ly dry and rich in blackberries, black currants, baking Stephen & Walker 2010 Pinot Noir (So­ 83 There’s a raw cut of acidity that gives this simple chocolate, anise and minerals. It feels dramatic from the 86 noma Coast). This is leaner and drier than wine a sour taste. On the plus side, it’s nice and dry, with start, like the opening notes of a great symphony or rock you’d normally expect from the Sonoma Coast, with lots some cherry fruit. For the price, it’s a helpful introduc- song. Cellar it for at least eight years, and it could age of tangy acidity. Although the alcohol is high, the wine is tion to the charms of Pinot Noir. —S.H. well beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. shy on fruit, but it remains elegant. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $10 abv: 14.6% Price: $125 abv: 15.3% Price: $46 Jacuzzi 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (So­ David Arthur 2009 Old Vine Estate Caber­ Armida 2010 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir 82 noma Coast). Thin and simple, this is not rich 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is built 85 (Sonoma Coast). With some veggie and enough to stand up to all of the acidity, lending it a sour to impress through its sheer power. With a little Petit green, stemmy notes alongside tones of cherry and cola, taste. —S.H. Verdot blended in, which adds a floral character, it’s this doesn’t taste fully ripe. It’s a very dry wine, with abv: 13.5% Price: $20 marked by an intense flavor of ripe wild blackberries, brisk acidity. Drink now, as it’s unlikely to develop with with a dried berry quality that’s suggestive of currants age. —S.H. and a liqueur fullness, courtesy of the high alcohol. The abv: 13.3% Price: $45 CABERNET SAUVIGNON French oak is a full 100% new, and is in keeping with Diamond Creek 2009 Gravelly Meadow the wine’s volume. So rich and tannic now, it’s barely Chessman 2011 Pinot Noir (North Coast). 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun­ drinkable. Give it at least 6–8 years in a good cellar and 85 This is a very pale Pinot Noir—you can almost tain). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. see what happens. Cellar Selection. —S.H. read through it. It’s also light and simple in texture, with abv: 14.1% Price: $175 abv: 15.2% Price: $125 some polished flavors of raspberries, Dr. Pepper and spices. It finishes dry and crisp in acidity. —S.H. Diamond Creek 2009 Volcanic Hill Cab­ Nickel & Nickel 2009 Branding Iron Cab­ abv: 13.8% Price: $15 96 ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). 94 ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. see page 5. Cellar Selection. Costa de Oro 2010 Estate Gold Coast abv: 14.1% Price: $175 abv: 14.8% Price: $100 85 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Despite having a wealth of cherry and sweet, smoky oak Nickel & Nickel 2009 Martin Stelling Vine­ Nickel & Nickel 2009 State Ranch Caber­ flavors, unripe notes of green peppercorn and tomato 96 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For 94 net Sauvignon (Yountville). For full review mark this Pinot Noir. The structure is fine and the acid- full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. see page 5. ity is great, but the veggie taste distracts. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $155 abv: 13.8% Price: $100 abv: 14.2% Price: $35 Vine Cliff 2009 16 Rows Cabernet Sauvi­ Sabina Vineyards 2008 Estate Cabernet MacPhail 2010 The Flyer Pinot Noir (Rus­ 96 gnon (Oakville). For full review see page 3. 94 Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full review see 85 sian River Valley). This Pinot tastes so oaky, Cellar Selection. page 5. it’s like chewing on barrel staves. Notes of vanilla, but- abv: 14.9% Price: $150 abv: 13.8% Price: $100 tered toast and the creamy-sweet flavor of oak sap com- pletely overwhelm what otherwise seems like a good

WineMag.com | 19 Sebastiani 2009 Cherryblock Cabernet Barbour 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon and sandalwood flavors as well as a salty, smoky umami 94 Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For full re- 91 (Napa Valley). Flashy, soft and luscious, this taste that suggests grilled bacon. Drink now. —S.H. view see page 5. is made in the modern cult style of Napa Cabernet. abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 14.4% Price: $90 It’s rich in flavors of blackberry jam, cassis and melt- ed dark chocolate. Heady in alcohol, there’s a pleasant, Ackerman 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Vine Cliff 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon blood-warming heat. The concentration and tannins 89 (Napa Valley). Bone dry and elegantly tannic, 94 (Oakville). For full review see page 6. Cellar aren’t there to warrant aging, so drink now. —S.H. this shows blackberry and currant flavors, touched by Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $100 smoky oak. It doesn’t quite have the depth to age, so abv: 14.8% Price: $85 drink this Cabernet soon to appreciate the rich fruit and Conn Creek 2008 Newton Vineyard Cab­ classic Napa structure. —S.H. Camiana 2008 Blue Hall Vineyard Caber­ 91 ernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Mount abv: 14.8% Price: $75 93 net Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Cami- Veeder Cabernets usually have tough tannins, making ana has been establishing a real track record with this the Cabernets ageworthy, but this 100% varietal bot- Brander 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ bottling, and the 2008 is the best yet. It shows the inten- tling neither requires cellaring nor will reward it. En- 89 gnon (Santa Ynez Valley). Ripe fruit com- sity and purity of Howell Mountain fruit, bearing deep joy the tight astringency now for its upfront blackberry, bines with fine tannins to make for a Cabernet that’s flavors of blackberries, blueberries, dark chocolate and black currant and cassis flavors. —S.H. easy to drink, yet good enough for an expensive cut of currants, with big, firm tannins that are characteristic of abv: 14.5% Price: $55 steak. The black cherry and raspberry flavors have a the mountain. There’s also a softness and a femininity brambly edge, almost like a Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. that make the wine drinkable now, but it should easily Del Bondio 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Don’t look for Napa smoothness and opulence; instead, develop over the next decade, at the very least. —S.H. 91 (Rutherford). From the prestigious Ruther- let the rustic nature of this wine charm you. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 ford appellation comes this soft, smooth and mellow abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Cabernet, with delicious flavors of black cherry, cola Conn Creek 2008 Collins Holystone and beef teriyaki. It shows just a trace of bitterness on Ghost Block 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvi­ 93 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Hele­ the finish, so drink soon. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 89 gnon (Oakville). This shows deep, classic fla- na). For full review see page 6. abv: 14.2% Price: $36 vors of sweet blackberries and black currants, with rich, abv: 14.5% Price: $60 thick tannins. While it doesn’t seem to be an ager, it’s Punch 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali­ a lovely wine to decant over a few hours. Drink now. David Arthur 2009 Three Acre Estate 91 fornia). Much of the fruit for this wine comes —S.H. 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is from Napa’s Mount Veeder, with additions from neigh- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 flashy and impressive for the sheer power and concen- boring Sonoma County and other unidentified state- tration of its fruit. Intense blackberry and cassis flavors wide sources. Even so, this shows a Napa-esque flair, Oakville East 2009 Exposure Cabernet sink deep and last long, accompanied by strong, new bearing softly ripe blackberry and cassis flavors, with 89 Sauvignon (Oakville). This is hard to appre- French oak and considerable tannins. It’s a wine that balance and richness. The winemakers and owners are ciate now because the fruit is so primary and upfront— needs serious cellar time; eight years from now, it could the husband and wife team from Mount Veeder’s Lagi- like a heaping spoon of black raspberry jam—and also still be a baby. Cellar Selection. —S.H. er-Meredith. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. because the tannins are thick and tough. There’s some- abv: 14.9% Price: $95 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 thing almost rustic about it. On the other hand, six years or more in the cellar could reward. Made from Caber- Conn Creek 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Alpha Omega 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon net Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, with a splash of Pe- 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For 90 (Napa Valley). This is a strong, dry and tannic tit Verdot. —S.H. full review see page 7. Cabernet Sauvignon, with intense blackberry, black cur- abv: 14.5% Price: $95 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 rant and new oak flavors. Right now, it’s immature, of- fering little beyond sheer power. Will it age? Six years is Roberts & Rogers 2007 Cabernet Sau­ Nickel & Nickel 2009 Hayne Vineyard no problem. After that, the overripeness, in the form of 89 vignon (Howell Mountain). Big, powerful 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full raisins, may easily kick in. —S.H. and flashy, this is made in the modern cult style, show- review see page 8. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $88 ing ripeness, high alcohol and oakiness. The blackberry abv: 14.3% Price: $100 and cassis flavors are classic Napa, while the texture is Mario Bazán 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon smooth and mellow, but as heady as cognac. —S.H. Oakville Winery 2009 Estate Cabernet 90 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10. abv: 15.4% Price: $60 92 Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review see abv: 13.5% Price: $55 page 8. Editors’ Choice. The Magpie 2010 Lot Four Cabernet Sau­ abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Robert Mondavi 2009 Reserve Cabernet 89 vignon (St. Helena). Shows the sweet rich- 90 Sauvignon (Oakville). Rich and concentrat- ness of Napa Valley. It has candied flavors of blackber- Sabina Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvi­ ed in blackberry essence, black currant and mocha, this ries and cherries, wrapped into firm, polished tannins. 92 gnon (Oakville). From the start this has su- has smooth tannins and a long, complex, dry finish. Del- A pretty wine, it should show its best over the next four perb tannins and fine acidity that frame the ripe, com- icacy, not to mention ageability, is somewhat compro- years. —S.H. plex blackberry, black currant and cassis flavors, finish- mised by the heat of high alcohol, but still, it’s a flashy abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ing with elegance and class. It’s hard to resist drinking effort to drink over the next few years. The grapes come now, but this should develop over the next eight years. from the esteemed To Kalon Vineyard immediately be- Conn Creek 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon —S.H. hind the winery. —S.H. 88 (Rutherford). This has flavors of black cherry, abv: 13.8% Price: $75 abv: 15% Price: $135 raspberry and red currant, with plenty of smoky, new French oak. It’s flashy, but the finish is somewhat quick. Saddleback Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sau­ Sebastiani 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al­ —S.H. 92 vignon (Napa Valley). Lush and delicious, 90 exander Valley). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 this is rich with complex berry, currant, cola, spice and abv: 14.2% Price: $40 cedar flavors. It’s earthier and more rustic than the Cinnabar 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al­ modern style of extreme softness and sweetness, but Summers 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 exander Valley). Drink this polished Caber- that’s exactly what gives it such charm. —S.H. 90 (Knights Valley). Firm tannins and a dry fin- net now to appreciate its blackberry, currant, herb and abv: 14.2% Price: $64 ish mark this wine. It has a wealth of blackberry, currant cedar flavors. The tannins are astringent, but it shows

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 elegance. It doesn’t seem to be a wine for the cellar. already throwing some sediment, but all bets are off for Stephen & Walker 2009 Cabernet Sauvi­ —S.H. whether or not it ages. —S.H. 82 gnon (Howell Mountain). This has big, hard abv: 14.5% Price: $42 abv: 14% Price: $75 tannins and very high alcohol, lending it a chili-pepper- like heat.. —S.H. Clos La Chance 2009 Reserve Cabernet Alpha Omega 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon abv: 15.5% Price: $65 87 Sauvignon (Central Coast). On first sip, a 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This wine’s ripe, flashy note of blackberry jam hits with force. Then overripeness shows up in the form of a bitter, dry, rai- Corley 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ the acidity kicks in, brightening and uplifting the sweet sin taste, with heat from the alcohol. It has a solid core 81 gnon (Napa Valley). This smells and tastes fruit. Drink it now with beef. —S.H. of blackberry fruit and beautiful tannins, but it won’t baked, with an overripe raisin flavor. It will not improve abv: 14.5% Price: $40 age. —S.H. with further aging. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $140 abv: 14.2% Price: $72 Folie à Deux 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 (Alexander Valley). This is immediately at- Napa Wine Co. 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon tractive in blackberry, cherry and red currant flavors, 85 (Napa Valley). A solid if standard Cabernet, MERLOT with a subtle coating of smoky oak. With plenty of ele- this show typical varietal flavors of blackberries, black Jarvis 2009 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa gance, it’s wonderful for drinking now. It should be rela- currants and anise, with the requisite jacket of toasty Valley). Made using grapes grown in Jarvis’s tively easy to find, with nearly 20,000 cases in circula- oak. Dry and full bodied, there’s some bitterness on the 91 mountain vineyard, this is a strongly flavored Merlot. tion. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. finish that suggests its limited ageability. Drink now. It’s brilliant and intense, with flavors of red cherry pie, abv: 14.3% Price: $20 —S.H. red licorice, grilled Canadian bacon and sandalwood. abv: 14.6% Price: $35 The tannic structure is a joy—soft, furry and complex. Ghost Block 2009 Single Vineyard Cab­ There’s lots of oak, too, which lends a smoky edge. Prob- ernet Sauvignon (Yountville). Sweet in Chessman 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 ably at its best now, so drink up. —S.H. blackberry, blueberry marmalade and cassis flavors, this (North Coast). A little rustic and tattered 84 abv: 14.2% Price: $95 has notable acidity that provides a scouring mouthfeel. around the edges, but its dry, with ripe blackberry fla- It’s a bit rustic now, especially with its jagged tannins, vors that veer into tannic, bitter raisin skins. Drink this Saddleback Cellars 2007 Merlot (Napa but the finish is dry and long. Sometimes these wines with a hamburger to round it out. —S.H. Valley). This is dry, medium bodied and ex- mellow and age well, but this one doesn’t seem destined abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 traordinarily rich, bearing flavors of baked black-cherry to benefit from cellaring. —S.H. pie, mocha and grilled prosciutto, with a long, spicy fin- abv: 14.5% Price: $100 JustNat 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry ish. So what if it’s too soft, or if there’s a trace of over- Creek Valley). This is a strong-tasting Caber- 84 ripeness? It’s all part of the wine’s personality. —S.H. Milange 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa net that lacks subtlety. But if you’re looking for a kick abv: 14.5% Price: $36 87 Valley). Ripe, jammy fruit and oak star in this of black currants and lots of tingly acidity, you might Cab. It offers a mouthburst of cherries and raspberries enjoy it. —S.H. Keenan 2009 Mailbox Vineyard Reserve and sweet char and vanilla. At the age of five-plus years, abv: 13.5% Price: $39 Merlot (Spring Mountain). Appealing for its it’s also quite tannic, with a sandpapery astringency. 89 sheer wealth of flavor, this is very rich and forward, with Doesn’t seem to be an ager, so drink now with a salty, Niner 2009 Bootjack Ranch Cabernet notes of jammy red cherries, red currants and mocha. peppery steak. Tasted twice. —S.H. Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This tastes sweet 84 It’s a little soft and sweet, and it doesn’t seem to have the abv: NA Price: $70 and gooey, like a blackberry and licorice gummy candy, structure for the long term. Drink now–2015. —S.H. with heat from the high alcohol. Lots of people like this abv: 14.8% Price: $64 Nice 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa style, but it’s not for everyone. —S.H. Valley). This is very rich in blackberries and abv: 14.8% Price: $32 87 Cinnabar 2010 Merlot (Paso Robles). currants, bearing lots of oak that adds caramelized Give this wine a little time in a decanter before toastiness. While the tannins are thick and fine, there’s Three Sticks 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 drinking, as it’s a tight and brittle right out of the bottle. something rustic on the finish in the form of extracted, (Sonoma Valley). Dry and tannic, this has 84 After 30 minutes or so it warms and softens, offering a candied sweetness and heat. Flashy as it is, you’re best a baked quality to its fruit, tasting warm and raisiny. gently attractive Merlot that’s dry and softly tannic, with drinking this wine now. —S.H. —S.H. pleasing cherry, red currant, licorice and herb flavors. abv: 14.5% Price: $110 abv: 14.6% Price: $70 Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $21 Nickel & Nickel 2009 C.C. Ranch Cab­ Jellybean Wines 2010 Candy-Apple Red ernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (California). As you 87 83 Keenan 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Dry Cabernet is very dry, with hard tannins housing black- might infer from the name, this tastes sweet. It appeals and elegant, this has fine berry, currant and cola berry, plum, raisin and cedar flavors. It could develop to consumers who enjoy the trend of sugary red wines. 87 flavors that turn sweetly attractive on the finish. With bottle complexity over the years, but at this price, it’s an You could almost drink it as a dessert sipper, with its its touch of earthiness, this should pair well with mush- expensive risk. —S.H. candied blackberry and cherry flavors. —S.H. room-based meat and poultry dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $100 abv: 13.9% Price: $13 abv: 14.8% Price: $36 16X20 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Wine Spots 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Sebastiani 2008 Merlot (Alexander Val­ Valley). This is a proper Cabernet, showing (Napa Valley). This Cabernet has blackberry 86 83 ley). This is soft and gentle, with easy berry, some rich flavors of black currants and dark choco- and dried herb flavors, with sizable tannins and pretty 87 herb, cola and sandalwood flavors. Drink now, as this is late, wrapped into sturdy tannins. Ready to drink now. hefty acidity. —S.H. about as good as it will ever be. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.9% Price: $17 abv: 14.8% Price: $45 Rosenblum 2011 Vintner’s Cuvée Caber­ Summers 2009 Ranch Reserve Merlot Ackerman 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon net Sauvignon (California). Sharp in acidity 82 (Knights Valley). Drink this charming Mer- (Napa Valley). Big, tough and totally dry, this and thin in fruit, this simple Cabernet has dry flavors of 87 86 lot now for its soft, sweet richness of fruit. With a touch has blackberry and currant flavors. It was grown in the sour candy, blackberry, currant and herb. —S.H. southerly Coombsville area, showing good acidity. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $13

WineMag.com | 21 of smoky oak, it shows cherry, red currant and mocha vineyards, providing the wine perfect balance between ignate, this exhibits well-integrated dark red and blue flavors that are wrapped into polished tannins. —S.H. big, bold fruit and provocative acidity. Cellar Selec- fruit amidst tobacco and herb highlights. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 tion. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 V. Sattui 2009 Henry Ranch Merlot (Los Topel 2007 Cuvee Donnis Syrah (Men­ 86 Carneros). This is a little too heavy and full La Clarine Farm 2010 Suma Kaw Syrah 89 docino). Topel uses the Syrah Noir clone that bodied, but it’s bone dry and rich in blackberry and 92 (Sierra Foothills). Suma Kaw has been a was originally sourced from M. Chapoutier to make this currant flavors, with an earthiness that suggests mush- vaunted vineyard source for some of the best Syrah in tasty wine. It’s packed with spicy red fruit and smooth, rooms. Drink over the next year or two. —S.H. the Foothills. Opening with a gust of peppercorn and an silky tannins. On the finish, it has a leathery tobacco abv: 14.5% Price: $29 herbal thread of pine, this Syrah dances on the edge of note, with the richness of a cinnamon roll. Enjoy this being overwhelming, with intense tannins weaving be- with meaty dishes. —V.B. Pedroncelli 2010 Bench Vineyards Mer­ tween the flavors of bright red fruit and smoky meat. abv: 14.3% Price: $32 85 lot (Dry Creek Valley). This is a good every- It’s enjoyable now, and will drink well in several years, day wine if you’re looking for something dry, full-bodied too. —V.B. Fields Family 2010 Estate Syrah (Lodi). and fruity. It’s not particularly identifiable as Merlot, but abv: 14.5% Price: $24 88 This wine might need more time in bottle be- it’s easy to drink, with berry and currant flavors and a fore truly blossoming. Its soft layers of red fruit are just nice tug from the tannins. —S.H. Renaudin 2009 Reserve Syrah (Carner­ starting to open up. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $15 92 os). This is dry and velvety in texture, with rich, abv: 14.4% Price: $18 complex flavors of cherries, licorice, bacon, Dr. Pepper Trentadue 2010 Block 500 Merlot (Alex­ and savory, peppery spices. A touch of oak adds a sweet Jason-Stephens 2007 Estate Syrah (San­ 84 ander Valley). Ripe cherry and blackberry fla- smokiness. Almost as light as a Pinot Noir, it’s a very 87 ta Clara Valley). This has smooth tannins and vors mark this Merlot. It’s dry and rich in tannins, with a pretty, polished Syrah to drink now. Editors’ Choice. plenty of bright fruit flavor. Made in a savory style, the rugged mouthfeel and an overripe, raisiny taste. —S.H. —S.H. finish on this wine has a leathery bite to it. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 15.3% Price: $26

Wine Spots 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Terre Rouge 2009 Sentinel Oak Vineyard, Naggiar 2009 Estate grown Syrah (Sierra 84 Despite the Napa Valley address, this ordinary 92 Pyramid Block Syrah (Shenandoah Val­ 87 Foothills). A broodingly dark, oaky Syrah, this wine tastes like it could come from anywhere. But it’s ley). This is a dark, sauvage, Cote-Rotie style of Syr- has a dash of pepper and intense red fruit. Naggiar con- a little rough in feel, with currant and plum sauce fla- ah. It’s full bodied, with tannins that have been tamed tinues to make promising Rhone-inspired estate wines vors. —S.H. from the mountain fruit. Slightly warmer than some of from rocky mountain soils. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Terre Rouge’s others, the finish is lusty and packed with abv: 14.2% Price: $21 peppery spice. It would pair well with an equally gamy stew. —V.B. Rosenblum 2010 Fran’s Reserve Syr­ GRENACHE abv: 14.5% Price: $40 87 ah (Rockpile). This is bone dry, complex Bella Victorian 2008 Romeo Grenache and warm in alcohol. The flavors include blackberries, currants, black pepper and sandalwood, with a meaty, (Sta. Rita Hills). The wine’s dryness, intricate Bella Victorian 2009 Elena Syrah (Cali­ 91 leathery note of beef jerky. Drink up. —S.H. structure and complexity are easy to enjoy, with deli- 91 fornia). The California appellation is used be- abv: 14.2% Price: $45 cious flavors of cherry pie filling, plum sauce and cured cause the winery’s estate vineyard is in Ventura County, pork. The tannin and acid balance is polished, courtesy north of Los Angeles—a cool-climate, coastal growing Terre Rouge 2009 Les Cotes de l’Ouest of the Sta. Rita Hills’s cool climate. Drink now–2014. region. This is rewardingly dry and complex, with an Syrah (California). This is the winery’s fruiti- —S.H. intriguing cured-meat note along with ripe blackber- 87 er, more accessible Syrah. Full bodied and fruity, it’s fine abv: 14.5% Price: $38 ry and cassis flavors. The tannin-acid balance is great, making it a very enjoyable wine to drink now with game, introduction to Terre Rouge wines. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Melée 2010 Grenache (California). This is lamb and beef. —S.H. all about the essence of red cherry, made com- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 Adelaida 2009 Anna’s Vineyard Syrah plex with layers of violet, sweet tobacco and red lico- (Paso Robles). Tasting kind of sweet for a rice. There’s plenty of toasty new oak, too. It’s one of Fields Family 2009 Estate Syrah (Lodi). 86 Syrah, this has flavors of blackberry jam, coffee and the prettier California Grenaches out there. Editors’ 90 Lodi isn’t the first region that comes to mind spice. —S.H. Choice. —S.H. when it comes to California Syrah, but this one could abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.2% Price: $32 change minds. It has a mountainous mouthfeel, with flavors of tar, blackberry and spice. The wine’s aromas Morse 2007 Jones Vineyard Syrah (El Chamisal Vineyards 2009 Estate Bottled need coaxing, but once they surface, a firm and fruity Dorado County). This is a tight, monstrous Grenache (Edna Valley). Soft and gentle, wine emerges. —V.B. 86 89 Syrah, with a pocket of black fruit flavor and a dollop but rich in cherry and red currant flavors, this has the abv: 14.1% Price: $18 of earthiness. It veers into raisiny territory on the fin- rich, umami flavor of a lightly salted and peppered ish. —V.B. rare hamburger. Pair it with a burger, and leave off the Terre Rouge 2009 High Slopes Syrah (Si­ abv: 15.9% Price: $24 cheese. —S.H. 90 erra Foothills). Tight at first, this has a fine abv: 14.8% Price: $38 tannin structure that wraps around the wine like a scarf. The aromatics come with force, with intoxicating wafts Chalk Hill 2009 Estate Syrah (Chalk Hill). of violet, pepper and herb. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 84 High alcohol stars in this Syrah. Prickly heat SYRAH abv: 14.5% Price: $35 dominates, giving a fiery warmth to the blackberry, cas- sis and grilled beef flavors. —S.H. Terre Rouge 2009 Ascent Syrah (Sierra Terre Rouge 2009 Jay Wilderotter Vine­ abv: 15.5% Price: $60 93 Foothills). Terre Rouge’s loftiest undertaking 89 yard Syrah (Shenandoah Valley). A rich, every vintage, this Ascent is a blockbuster. It’s gorgeous- earthy Syrah from a new Terre Rouge vineyard des- ly spicy and floral, with dark notes of pepper, violet and herb that will live long and prosper in time. Grapes used for this bottling are sourced from cool, high-elevation

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 PETITE SIRAH Vagabond 2009 Arrighi Vineyard Petite Amelle 2008 Buck Hill Zinfandel (So­ 86 Sirah (Clear Lake). A tannic and ripe Petite 85 noma County). Fruity, simple and lusty, this Summers 2009 Petite Sirah (Knights Val­ Sirah, this has flavors of plum, dark chocolate and a se- is made for barbecue. High alcohol gives sweet heat to 92 ley). Grown in a highlands plateau between rious shot of espresso. This is a big bomb of a wine that the jammy cherry and currant flavors. It really wants to Napa Valley and the Russian River Valley, this shows the needs braised meat to match it. —V.B. accompany charred meats slathered in sweet sauces. varietal’s bigtime tannins, but it’s lighter in body than abv: 14.8% Price: $45 —S.H. you might expect. It’s delicious in blackberry, currant, abv: 15.3% Price: $24 grilled meat and sandalwood flavors. This is one of the Balletto 2007 Zinfandel (Russian River more elegant and sophisticated Petite Sirahs of the vin- ZINFANDEL Valley). This is so softly sweet and delicious in tage. It’s showing its best now and will continue to drink Oakville Winery 2010 Estate Zinfandel 85 mocha, wild berry, buttery nougat and spice flavors, it’s well over the next few years. —S.H. (Oakville). For full review see page 7. Edi- 93 like a candy bar with alcohol. Easy to drink, with a gen- abv: 14.2% Price: $36 tors’ Choice. tle mouthfeel. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.9% Price: $24 Naggiar 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Sier­ 88 ra Foothills). Made from estate-grown fruit Summers 2009 Four-Acre Zinfandel (Cal­ Armida 2010 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel istoga). sourced high in the Sierra Foothills, this is a black, true- 93 Rich, blood warming and heady, this 84 (Dry Creek Valley). Dry and tannic, this has to-type Petite Sirah. It’s packed with dusty coffee, choc- has vast and complex flavors of blackberry jam, licorice, deep blackberry-pie and spice flavors. A touch of un- olate and tobacco. —V.B. bacon, spice and sweet, smoky sandalwood. It’s hard to ripeness, suggesting green peppercorns, detracts from abv: 14.8% Price: $29 imagine a better wine to drink with barbecue. Editors’ the pleasure. Drink now. —S.H. Choice. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $40 Trentadue 2010 La Storia Petite Sirah (Al­ abv: 14.2% Price: $34 88 exander Valley). So rich, deeply flavored and Cinnabar 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). heady, it’s almost like a dessert Port, although it’s dry, Rosenblum 2010 Rockpile Road Vine­ 84 Briary berry and cedar flavors are marred by not sweet. The blackberry and cherry flavors taste like 91 yard Zinfandel (Rockpile). While it’s not for less ripe notes of green herbs. It’s dry, tannic and spicy. they were baked into cookies. As you’d expect from a everyone, this is a great expression of Rosenblum-style —S.H. Petite Sirah, the tannins are thick, but nothing you can’t Rockpile Zin. It’s a big, lusty glass of red wine, warm abv: 15% Price: $38 drink now with barbecue. —S.H. and heady, with extraordinarily ripe berry, currant and abv: 14.9% Price: $50 mocha flavors. —S.H. Peachy Canyon 2010 Westside Zinfandel abv: 15.2% Price: $35 83 (Paso Robles). This is overripe and hot, with hy.brid 2007 Petite Sirah (Lodi). This is a raisin, prune and blackberry jam flavors. If you like this smoky, fruity Petite Sirah, with 15% Syrah and Rosenblum 2010 Harris Kratka Vineyard style, it’s a good example of Paso Zinfandel. —S.H. 87 Zinfandel (Alexander Valley). This is a ro- 5% Viognier in the blend. It’s round and drinkable now, 90 abv: 15.5% Price: $19 bust, full-bodied Zinfandel. It’s so ripe that the black- with a dark berry flavor and specks of coffee and choco- berries have a raisiny, Porty note. High in alcohol and Adelaida 2009 Michael’s Vineyard Zin­ late. Best Buy. —V.B. spicy, this is a wine that defines a particular style of fandel (Paso Robles). This is overripe, with abv: 14.3% Price: $8 81 warm-climate Sonoma Zin. —S.H. raisiny, pruny flavors and a hot finish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Rosenblum 2010 Pickett Road Reserve abv: 14.9% Price: $45 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This shows the 87 Rosenblum 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard dry tannins and heady alcohol that so often mark a Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This shows the RED BLENDS young Petite Sirah. It’s full bodied and lusty, with ripe 87 superhigh alcohol that Zins from this vineyard often blackberry jam, currant and oak flavors. It’s a little on Oakville East 2009 Core Stone (Oakville). achieve. It’s bone dry, but it has a heaviness and heat the rustic side, but fine with barbecue. —S.H. 94 Very rich and voluptuous, this has ripe black- that make it Port-like, with black currant, prune and abv: 15.2% Price: $40 berry fruit that has a roasted character, as if the berries dark chocolate flavors. —S.H. spent a moment on the grill. It’s deep and impressive, abv: 15.9% Price: $45 Shannon Ridge 2010 High Elevation Col­ showing tiers of complexity, but it’s also very tannic, with lection Petite Sirah (Lake County). a dry, astringent kick that makes it seemingly undrink- 87 Grown Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Zinfandel (Cali­ in the High Valley appellation within Lake County, this able now. Made from mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and 86 fornia). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. Cabernet Franc, with a drop of Petit Verdot, it’s a wine is huge, black and packed with blackberry and blueber- abv: 13% Price: $8 that needs considerable time in the cellar. Hold until af- ry flavors. It’s decadent like a blueberry pie topped with ter 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. chocolate sauce. Ready to drink now. —V.B. Rosenblum 2010 Planchon Vineyard Zin­ abv: 14.5% Price: $125 abv: 13.9% Price: $23 86 fandel (Contra Costa County). There are lots of ripe, heady flavors of blackberry, dark chocolate, Proximity 2009 Twenty Six (Santa Ynez Pedroncelli 2009 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek anise and exotic spice in this high alcohol wine. While Valley). Based on Petit Verdot, with the other Valley). Considering this is Petite Sirah, this is 93 86 it’s a bit heavy by itself, it needs food to perk it up and four Bordeaux varieties blended in, this is ripe and rich surprisingly soft and gentle—almost like a Pinot Noir. coax out the richness. Grilled beef in almost any form in blackberries, mocha and oak. It distinguishes itself The texture is silky, with flavors of cherries, currants, is ideal. —S.H. from Napa Valley—which is the unavoidable compari- Canadian bacon and black pepper. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.9% Price: $30 son—with a pleasurable earthiness and tartness, reflect- abv: 14.3% Price: $16 ing the Santa Ynez’s cool climate. —S.H. Rosenblum 2010 Richard Sauret Re­ abv: 14.9% Price: $80 Stephen & Walker 2010 Petite Sirah (Dry 86 serve Zinfandel (Paso Robles). The high 86 Creek Valley). Fire up the grill and drink this alcohol shows through everything else, giving this Zin a Alpha Omega 2009 Proprietary (Napa rustic, lusty wine with ribs and burgers. It’s rustic and chili pepper heat and a distracting Port-like sensation. 91 Valley). A blend of mainly Merlot and Cab- high in alcohol, with bigtime tannins framing blackberry It’s rich and dry, with firm tannins framing the black- ernet Sauvignon, with smaller amounts of other tradi- and currant flavors. —S.H. berry and currant flavors. —S.H. tional Bordeaux varieties, this treads perilously close to abv: 15.3% Price: $46 abv: 15.2% Price: $30 being too ripe. It shows a hint of raisin, but not enough

WineMag.com | 23 to interfere with the beauty of the blackberry jam and flavors lean more toward Cabernet, with cola, spice and Concannon 2010 Conservancy, Crimson sweet oak flavors. The tannins are exquisite, in the way black fruit notes atop layers of softened tannins. The 86 & Clover (Livermore Valley). This is Con- of a top Napa Cab. Doesn’t seem to be a longterm ager, finish is Rhône-like: meaty, with a strong dash of pep- cannon’s second vintage of Crimson & Clover—a Pe- so drink now–2015. —S.H. per. —V.B. tite Sirah-based blend. It offers good value and sweet, abv: 14.4% Price: $90 abv: 14.9% Price: $18 smooth flavors, with a hint of licorice and dark chocolate running through. —V.B. Atrea 2009 Old Soul Red Wine (Mendoci­ Chalk Hill 2009 Estate Red (Chalk Hill). abv: 13.7% Price: $15 90 no County). This red blend of 59% Zinfan- 87 Made from classic Bordeaux varieties with Syr- del, 20% Petite Sirah, 14% Syrah and 7% Malbec has ah, it’s dry, rich in tannins and complex, with flavors of Kuleto Estate 2009 India Ink (Napa Val­ depth and concentration, as well as length. It has flavors blackberry, fresh herb and oak. But it’s quite soft, with 86 ley). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and of black and red berries, accented by cinnamon. —V.B. extraordinarily high alcohol that gives it a Cognac-like Syrah, this is soft and rich. It’s forward in blackberries, abv: 14.9% Price: $25 burn. —S.H. cherries, dried currants and mocha flavors, wrapped abv: 15.6% Price: $70 into firm tannins. Drink it now before the fruit fades Casey Flat Ranch 2009 Estate Red Wine away. —S.H. 90 (Capay Valley). This is a big, mountain-grown Di Arie 2009 Interlude (Sierra Foothills). abv: 14.9% Price: $35 blend that needs time to open—think about decanting 87 Dark, smoky and oaky, this ripe wine tastes very it first. A mix of 50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon much of the 40% Primitivo featured in the blend. It has Naggiar 2008 Don Giovanni (Sierra Foot­ and 20% Cabernet Franc, this has a fruity, delicious nice structure, with Syrah, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah 86 hills). Made from Zinfandel and Cabernet Sau- nose that’s slightly peppery. The palate is surrounded by also in the mix. It’s ready to drink, especially with pasta vignon, Don Giovanni is a full-bore wine. Its more Zin red and blue fruit and tanker-size tannins, with a plush, with an herb sauce. —V.B. than Cab in flavor and personality, with bursts of berry cinnamon-kissed finish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 and vanilla throughout. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Jason-Stephens 2007 Estate Meritage David Arthur 2009 Meritaggio (Napa Val­ 87 (Santa Clara Valley). Comprised of 48% Trenza 2009 Tinto (Edna Valley). This is 89 ley). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangio- Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 2.5% each of 86 very strong in fruit, tasting like the essence of vese, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it’s a little high Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this Santa Clara Val- raspberry and cherry, with penetrating acidity. It has in alcohol and astringently tannic, but it has deep flavors ley red is bursting with rich, big fruit, ending with a a candied jamminess, although the finish is bone dry. of red- and black-fruit liqueurs and new oak. It’s a heady quick finish. —V.B. Made from Syrah, Tempranillo and Grenache, it’s a fun wine that would pair well with robust fare. —S.H. abv: 14.25% Price: $34 wine for drinking now with easy fare. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $55 abv: 14.8% Price: $30 Kuleto Estate 2009 Frog Prince (Napa Topel 2007 Estate Blend (Mendocino). A 87 Valley). Dry and firm in tannins, this has up- Coquelicot 2009 Mon Amour (Santa Ynez 89 well-crafted blend of estate-grown Syrah, Cab- front blackberry, cherry, oak and spice flavors. It’s a 85 Valley). Based on Merlot, this is soft and pretty ernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot, this shows Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend with some simple. The flavors are of red currants, cherry jam, cola the bright-red cranberry fruit of the Cabernet and the Syrah, which brings a smoked meat taste. —S.H. and licorice, with a smoky, caramelized sweetness from spicy, meaty length of the Syrah. Drink this now, prefer- abv: 14.1% Price: $35 the oak. —S.H. ably with roast chicken. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.2% Price: $36 Kuleto Estate 2009 Native Son (Napa Val­ 87 ley). Easy to drink, this has sweetly ripe, up- Michael David 2010 Petite Petit (Lodi). Adelaida 2009 Anna’s Vineyard Version front blackberry and cherry flavors that have a bite of 85 Smoky and oaky, this is a blend of 85% Petite 88 (Paso Robles). There are tons of rich, ripe tannin. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Sirah and 15% Petit Verdot, creating one black, dense, flavors in this soft, high-alcohol California rendition of Zinfandel, it has a savory spiciness. Drink now. —S.H. vanilla-infused package that’s rich and ready to drink Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Based on Mourvèdre and Gre- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 now. —V.B. nache, it offers a blast of sweet cherry jam, blackberry, abv: 14.5% Price: $18 creamy mocha and spice. —S.H. Niner 2009 Twisted Spur (Paso Robles). abv: 14.9% Price: $36 87 Soft and a little warm in alcohol, this blend has Naggiar 2010 Mistero (Sierra Foothills). rich flavors of red berries, red currants, smoked meat 85 This is an oaky, seemingly sweet, blackberry- Fields Family 2010 Big Red (Lodi). This and exotic spices. It’s an easy wine to drink with barbe- and strawberry-tinged blend of 65% Zinfandel, 30% 88 is comprised of equal parts Zin and Syrah, with cue. —S.H. Sangiovese and 5% Syrah. With an earthy note of sage smaller amounts of Carignane, Petite Sirah and Merlot. abv: 14.8% Price: $30 running through, this is a food friendly wine that’ll re- It’s big and full, just as the name implies, bearing plum- quire a hearty meal to tame it down. —V.B. my, meaty notes, with a spicy finish. —V.B. Shannon Ridge 2010 High Elevation Col­ abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 87 lection, Wrangler Red (Lake County). Shannon Ridge is quietly becoming the king of Lake Stark Raving NV Red (California). Easy Langtry 2007 Old Soldier Road Tephra County, offering wines of both quality and value and 85 drinking, this is rich in raspberry and cherry fla- 88 Ridge Vineyard (Lake County). A propri- this is no exception. This blend is made of Zinfandel, vors, with enough acidity to give the fruit a tangy edge. etary red made of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvè- The unusual blend is mostly Tannat, Zinfandel, Caber- lot, this is a nod to Langtry’s best fruit, which is grown dre. The kitchen-sink approach doesn’t muddle the net Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. —S.H. on a hillside vineyard on the north face of Mount Veed- wine in any way; it remains a smooth, fruity, ripe quaff, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 er. This is a full blockbuster that’s flavored with red ber- with a kick of vanilla on the finish. —V.B. ry and mint, finishing smooth. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 V. Sattui 2008 Paradiso (Napa Valley). abv: 14.3% Price: $40 85 Very rich and fruity, yet it tastes pretty sweet. Brander 2010 F/Red (Santa Ynez Valley). If you enjoy a candied blackberry flavor, this could be Open Range 2008 Red (California). This 86 Made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and for you. —S.H. 88 is comprised of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Syrah, this has a rustic texture that frames raisin, cur- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Syrah, 5% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, with much rant and sandalwood flavors. It will pair well with beef of the fruit sourced from Mendocino and Lake coun- ribs. —S.H. Vigilance 2010 Cimarron (Lake County). ties. While its aromatically strong in Syrah, the wine’s abv: 14.1% Price: $18 85 Ripe and broad shouldered, this blend of Zin-

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 fandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon is Niner 2009 Bootjack Ranch Malbec (Paso with a hint of sweetness that’s balanced by brisk white- full in flavor and tannins. It’s a perfect pizza wine. —V.B. 86 Robles). There are lots of rich, ripe blackberry, tea astringency. —A.I. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 licorice and spicy flavors in this dry Malbec. It feels soft abv: 12% Price: $30 and silky in the mouth, but there’s some heat from the Del Bondio 2008 A Metá (Napa Valley). alcohol as well as a touch of overripeness. Drink now. Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Red Oak Vine­ 84 This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah —S.H. 90 yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). This is intoxi- is ripe—almost overripe—with the blackberries ap- abv: 14.4% Price: $28 cating on the nose with scents of white flowers, fresh proaching prunes, but it’s dry and smooth, with a good herbs and honey, layered with hints of smoke and pine grip of tannins. —S.H. Keenan 2009 Cabernet Franc (Spring needles. Just a shade off-dry, the palate boasts ample abv: 14.4% Price: $29 85 Mountain). This shows some aggressive tan- peach and pear flavors that are tinged with a bitter lime- nins now, and the fruit is a little overripe, suggesting red skin note and bristling minerality. —A.I. Smart Cookie 2010 Red (California). This currants and shrivelled raisins. It’s also a touch high in abv: 12.1% Price: $20 83 is a sweet red blend with nice packaging, bear- alcohol. The tannins are fine and sturdy, but the wine ing a slightly burnt aroma lurking in the background. lacks the balance to age. Drink now. —S.H. Ravines 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 90 Lakes). One whiff reveals billowing scents abv: 13.5% Price: $13 of purple flower, fresh apple, lemon peel and sea salt. Bone dry yet penetrating with flavors of lime skin, green Armida 2010 Il Campo Estate Field (Dry DESSERT WINES apple and fresh herbs, this is a lush, textural Riesling 82 Creek Valley). This is not entirely ripe, show- Husch 2011 Late Harvest Gewurztramin­ with outstanding complexity. It finishes steely and crisp ing green flavors and hard tannins. While there is some 88 er (Anderson Valley). Rich in apricot and or- —a perfect pairing with fatty hamachi or salmon sashi- decent cherry and berry flavors, this blend of Zinfandel, ange marmalade, crème brûlée and vanilla flavors, this mi. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Petite Sirah and Carignane can charitably be described dessert sipper has a soft, honeyed richness. The residual as rustic. —S.H. sugar is 14.1%, making it fabulously sweet. —S.H. Red Newt Cellars 2010 Sawmill Creek abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 12.4% Price: $20/375 ml 90 Vineyards Riesling (Finger Lakes). Bota Box 2011 RedVolution (California). Stephen & Walker 2010 Trust Winery Swathes of green herbs add a blast of freshness to ripe, 82 Costing the equivalent of $5 for one 750-ml 88 Limited Chardonnay (Mendocino Ridge). rich stone-fruit and quince notes on this bone-dry, sin- bottle, this is made in a country style, with a jagged This has an extraordinarily-high level of residual sugar, gle-vineyard Riesling. It’s remarkably complex, with mouthfeel and berry flavors that are tinged with green giving it a very sweet, honeyed taste. The flavors are of layers of crushed-stone minerality, lime and lime-pith mint and chlorophyll. —S.H. pure golden apricots, with accents of tangerines, but- notes that reverberate on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $20/3 L tered toast and vanilla cream. While it’s not overly com- plex, it offers plenty of rich pleasure. —S.H. Glenora 2011 Riesling (Finger Lakes). 3 Spells 2007 Blend GHK (Napa Valley). abv: 12% Price: $65 81 This is tart and also overripe, with a sharp, raisin 89 Fragrant yellow and purple flowers on the nose taste that leads to a bitter finish. A blend of Merlot, San- Maestral 2011 Wein der Eisbox Tondre and palate of this medium-sweet Riesling add a subtle giovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H. 87 Vineyard Riesling (Santa Lucia High­ perfume to all of the ripe, luscious white-peach and abv: 14.2% Price: $26 lands). This is very sweet in honey flavor, with fruity nectarine flavors. Hints of wet stone and lime-like acid- notes of apricot and orange. It could benefit from great- ity lend a crisp, tonic tone to the midpalate, extending er acidity to balance the sweetness, but it sure is a deca- onto the long, lingering finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16 OTHER RED WINES dent dessert sipper. —S.H. abv: 10.5% Price: $40/375 ml Sebastiani 2009 Barbera (Sonoma Val­ Glenora 2011 Select Harvest Riesling 89 ley). This is a big, lusty, fruit-forward wine. It 89 (Finger Lakes). Fresh and floral, this has shows Barbera’s tannins, although they’re soft and just Herzog 2011 Late Harvest Orange Mus­ 85 cat (California). A very sweet wine, this is just scents of green herb, honeysuckle and apple blossom. need a steak to balance them out. The flavors are of rich, On the palate, this medium-sweet late-harvest offering ripe blackberries and cherries. It’s pretty much as el- the thing most Muscat lovers will love. It’s delicious in orange jam, tropical fruit and vanilla bean flavors. The is rich and fruity, with concentrated notes of sweet pear egant as Barbera gets, considering it is usually rather acidity surfaces just in time, preventing the sweetness and lemon. The finish is long but wraps up elegantly and rustic in California. —S.H. dry with a kiss of lime peel and pith. —A.I. abv: 14.8% Price: $26 from seeming cloying. —S.H. abv: 8% Price: $20 abv: 9.25% Price: $30 Clos La Chance 2009 Reserve Petit Ver­ Jeunesse 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2011 Riesling dot (Central Coast). Give this young wine (Finger Lakes). 88 (California). This Cabernet was made to be 89 Intensely tropical on the some time in a decanter or glass, as it’s pretty odorous in 83 consumed as a dessert wine. It’s soft, simple and very nose and palate, this off-dry Riesling shines with notes sulfur right out of the bottle. Dry, full bodied and tan- sweet, with white sugar and cherry jam flavors. —S.H. of juicy melon, papaya and peach candy, with a hint of nic, it has an earthiness to its sweet black-currant and abv: 12.5% Price: $13 white, waxy flower for extra flair. Brisk acidity keeps all grilled meat flavors. It will be a fine partner, especially that fruity sweetness in check, leading to a sleek, steely for game dishes. —S.H. finish.Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 NEW YORK abv: 10.5% Price: $12 Bella Victorian NV The Painted Lady RIESLING Knapp 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). 87 Dornfelder (Sta. Rita Hills). This is fantas- 89 Abundantly floral and fruity, with loads of laven- tically rich in flavors of cherry pie, milk chocolate, but- Glenora 2010 Late Harvest Riesling (Fin­ der, peony and sweet grapefruit notes, this is a dry yet tered toast and spice. The texture is fairly light, falling 90 ger Lakes). Notes of sweet quince preserves, remarkably lush and concentrated Riesling. Vivid acid- somewhere between Merlot and Pinot Noir. Drink now. lilac and lavender gently perfume this aromatic late- ity and lingering hints of lime skin, wax and lanolin add —S.H. harvest Riesling. Quite voluptuous in body, with rich structure and complexity. —A.I. abv: 14.6% Price: $47 fruit flavor and a lush, creamy texture, it finishes long, abv: 12% Price: $15

WineMag.com | 25 Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Dry Riesling and slightly underripe stone-fruit flavors. It finishes on Belhurst 2011 Dry Riesling (Seneca 89 (Finger Lakes). Intense stone-fruit and hon- a note of steely slate and struck flint. Best Buy. —A.I. 87 Lake). Boisterous floral notes on the nose lead eysuckle notes merge seamlessly with hints of smoke abv: 11.8% Price: $13 to a palate that’s chock-full of penetrating mango, yel- and crushed stone. While ripe and rich, it’s also pene- low peach and melon flavors. Not quite dry as labeled, tratingly dry, with juicy fruit flavors. It’s gorgeously com- Hosmer Winery 2010 Vintner’s Reserve but it’s delightfully quaffable with sprightly tangerine- posed with striking lime-juice acidity and a savory, min- 88 Riesling (Cayuga Lake). Lean and steely, tinged acidity. —A.I. erally tone that lingers. Best Buy. —A.I. with penetrating minerality, this bone-dry Riesling just abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 12.8% Price: $14 begs to be paired with briny oysters or caviar. The palate boasts delicate apple and pear flavors that are layered Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Dry Riesling Red Newt Cellars 2010 Tango Oaks Vine­ with smoke, fresh fennel and a deliciously herbaceous 87 (Finger Lakes). Shades of smoke, dried herbs 89 yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). A hint of ex- finish. —A.I. and nut skins add savory tones to this dry Riesling. The otic spice adds dimension to the freshly pressed apple abv: 12.1% Price: $25 palate builds intensity on the midpalate with layers of and tangerine skin notes on the nose and palate of this fresh apple, lime skin and underripe stone fruit, bol- off-dry Riesling. Intense, ripe fruit is balanced by brac- Knapp 2011 Riesling (Finger Lakes). stered by sprightly tangerine-laced acidity. —A.I. ing lime-juice acidity that lingers long on the finish. 88 Hints of ripe melon, mango and white tea leaves abv: 12% Price: $15 —A.I. permeate the nose and palate of this off-dry Riesling. abv: 9.6% Price: $20 Intensely fruity, it’s balanced with brisk notes of lime Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Semi-Dry Ries­ skin and lime pith. It finishes long, with a flash of sugar- 87 ling (Finger Lakes). Ripe mango perfume ex- Sheldrake Point 2011 Dry Riesling (Fin­ laced sweetness. —A.I. tends from the nose to the palate of this bright, tropical, 89 ger Lakes). Intensely aromatic, with loads of abv: 12% Price: $17 medium-sweet Riesling. Concentrated, with loads of sunny peach, apricot and yellow flower aromas, this off- sweet fruits and sunny yellow flowers, it’s a straightfor- dry Riesling is ripe and concentrated, yet impeccably Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Semi-Dry Ries­ ward yet irresistibly juicy sip. —A.I. structured. So fruity, it’s almost tropical on the palate, 88 ling (Finger Lakes). This is intriguing on abv: 11.5% Price: $15 but it finishes dry and crisp, with penetrating lemon- the nose, with loads of fresh apple and floral perfume lime acidity. —A.I. merged with darker tones of petrol and pine needles. Glenora 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger abv: 11.4% Price: $16 Off-dry in style, it’s lush and fruity, with ample melon 87 Lakes). Hints of sea salt and crushed stone add and stone-fruit flavors. It finishes dry, with a splash of layers of minerality to this Riesling that’s just a shade Belhurst 2011 Semi-Dry Riesling (Sene­ citrusy acidity. —A.I. off-dry. The palate is concentrated with notes of tanger- 88 ca Lake). Notes of honeysuckle, white peach abv: 12% Price: $14 ine juice, lemon peel and pressed apples, balanced by and fresh green herb are intensely aromatic. This off- puckery lemon acidity. —A.I. dry effort balances zippy, lemon-lime acidity with lay- McGregor 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger abv: 11.5% Price: $18 ers of ripe, rich fruit. It’s lushly textured, yet it finishes 88 Lakes). This is subtly perfumed, with hints of delicately with a bristle of white-tea astringency. —A.I. apple blossom, white peach and smoke. There’s a deli- abv: 11.5% Price: $19 cacy that extends from the nose to the palate on this GEWÜRZTRAMINER bone-dry, elegantly structured Riesling. Brisk and re- Damiani 2010 Gewürztraminer (Finger Damiani 2011 Davis Vineyard Dry Ries­ freshing, the finish ripples with flavors of crushed stone, Lakes). Lushly textured, with loads of rose- ling (Finger Lakes). Hints of savory herbs, shale and lime pith. —A.I. 89 88 petal, stone fruit, lychee and pink grapefruit notes, this lime skins and crushed stones balance the exuberant abv: 11.4% Price: $18 is an exciting bottling from a winery known more for notes of jasmine and tropical fruit. Dry, yet delightfully reds. It’s off-dry, with just the right hint of exotic spice fruity, it’s elegantly structured with a lemon-pith astrin- Rooster Hill 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger and bitterness on the finish. —A.I. Lakes). Savory notes of fennel and exotic spice gency that lingers. —A.I. 88 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 11.8% Price: $22 add a dose of complexity to the sweet apple and pear fla- vors of this dry Riesling. Crisp, clean and refreshing, it Glenora 2011 Gewürztraminer (Finger Heron Hill 2009 Reserve Riesling (Fin­ finishes with a delicate green-floral note. —A.I. Lakes). Classic Gewürztraminer from start to ger Lakes). Bone dry, with bristling notes of abv: 12.4% Price: $16 89 88 finish, this luxuriously off-dry sipper bursts with heady wet stone, slate and petrol, this boasts striking mineral- rose petal and ripe, rich lychee notes. Zesty and bright ity, with undertones of white blossoms, limes and sug- Rooster Hill 2010 Medium Sweet Ries­ with acidity, the finish is marked by delicious hints of ar cookie that linger delicately on the finish. Brisk with ling (Finger Lakes). Luscious tropical fruit 88 lanolin and lime zest. —A.I. and jasmine notes are framed by hints of fresh green acidity, it would pair fabulously with goat cheese or fatty abv: 12% Price: $15 salmon. —A.I. herb and grass. A spray of lemony acidity and smoky white-tea notes add delicate flair to the finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Reserve abv: 12.1% Price: $16 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Notes of Hosmer Winery 2011 Riesling (Cayuga 88 sweet, juicy honey tangerines, stone fruit and musk- Lake). Hints of fennel add a splash of green Silver Thread 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger 88 melon show on this powerfully fruity, off-dry Gewürz- to the intense yellow peach, pineapple and honeysuckle Lakes). Restrained, rather savory aromas of 88 traminer. It’s juicy and forward, but brisk orange-rind flavors of this penetrating, off-dry Riesling. The palate dill, fennel, apple and saline are some of the many nu- notes and citrusy acidity adds balance and structure. is lush with sweet fruit flavors, but spirited lemon-lime ances of this dry yet surprisingly supple Riesling. The —A.I. Best palate boasts notes of bright apple, lime juice and lime acidity carries it to a dry, elegantly floral finish. abv: 13% Price: $25 Buy. —A.I. skin, highlighted by a rich, minerally sheen. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $13 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Gewurztra­ miner (Finger Lakes). Boisterous flower and Hosmer Winery 2011 Dry Riesling (Ca­ Treleaven 2010 Dry Riesling (Cayuga 88 tropical fruit aromas make for a big bouquet that pen- yuga Lake). A hint of white flower brightens Lake). Hints of wet stone add a minerally 88 88 etrates deeply into the ripe, fruity palate. This is sur- the savory notes of fennel, sea breeze and pressed apple sheen to the fresh apple and heady white-flower notes prisingly balanced in body and alcohol for a wine with on this richly concentrated Riesling. The palate is fresh, on this refreshing wine. Lemon-lime acidity leads to a such bold presence. It finishes long, with hints of gin- dry and zippy, with loads of juicy tangerine, green apple long, lean and steely finish. —A.I. abv: 10.9% Price: $15

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 ger, black tea and pleasantly bitter phenolics. Best Buy. and lime skin. Dry, lean and effortlessly elegant. Drink —A.I. GRÜNER VELTLINER now. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15 Stony Lonesome 2011 Estate Reserve abv: 12.7% Price: $16 87 Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). The attack Rooster Hill 2010 Estate Gewürztraminer on this light-bodied sipper is unabashedly fruity, with Hosmer Winery 2010 Pinot Gris (Cayuga 88 (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of smoke and spice in- loads of ripe peach and nectarine flavors. It balances out 87 Lake). Glimmers of saline, nuts and smoke add troduce heady aromas of white flower, lychee and stone quite nicely with zippy acidity and a dry, steely finish. dimension to the sweet apple and lemon flavors. Brisk fruit. The attack is sweet, with flavors of ripe melon and This is a noteworthy addition to the growing line up of with acidity, it has a bright, refreshing profile overall. peach candy, but it tapers elegantly to a dry finish that’s Finger Lakes Grüner Veltliner. —A.I. Drink now. —A.I. marked with hints of grape-skin astringency. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $16 abv: 13.2% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Grüner Velt­ Inspire Moore 2011 Peace Pinot Gris Sheldrake Point 2011 Gewürztraminer 86 liner (Finger Lakes). Sunny and ripe on the 87 (Finger Lakes). This has concentrated apple, 88 (Finger Lakes). One of the few Finger Lakes’ nose, this has loads of yellow peach and apricot aromas, mango and lime skin notes that are shaded with tones Gewürztraminers to exhibit such spot-on varietal typici- tinged with hints of dried, savory herbs. This dry, medi- of smoke, crushed chalk and white pepper. Round and ty, this is gorgeously aromatic with loads of honeysuckle, um-bodied Grüner is subdued on the palate, but thirst rich on the palate, with a mouthfilling viscosity, it’s bal- lychee, stone fruit and exotic spice notes. Off-dry, con- quenching with its vivid acidity and clean, minerally fin- anced with a flash of lemony acidity and a tingling tea- centrated and bold on the palate, it’s balanced with just ish. Drink now. —A.I. leaf astringency. —A.I. a touch of phenolic bitterness. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $18 Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Estate Bottled Belhurst 2010 Pinot Grigio (New York). Keuka Spring 2010 Gewürztraminer (Fin­ Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). Aromas of 85 Cool, crisp and tonic from start to finish, this is ger Lakes). Ripe and tropical on the nose, this sweet white peach and apple blossoms are lovely on this 86 87 an easy-drinking wine with ample sweet apple and wild- off-dry wine is chock-full of fleshy cantaloupe and nec- lean, light-footed Grüner Veltiner. The palate could use flower notes, with shades of smoke, hazelnut skins and tarine flavors, balanced by nervy acidity and bitter tea- a hint more concentration, but it’s lemony and brisk, leaf notes. Full bodied and a tad blowsy, this finishes with pleasant crushed chalk and grass notes. Drink now. delicate lime-juice acidity. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 long on a floral note. —A.I. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 11.5% Price: $20 Goose Watch 2011 Pinot Gri­ Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Estate Bottled 86 gio (Finger Lakes). Dry yet lusciously 87 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Delicate PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO mouth filling, this is subtly floral, with a hefty dose of fresh apple flavor. It’s straightforward but pleasantly aromas of apple blossoms and fresh pears belie a sur- Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Pinot Gris quaffable. Drink now. —A.I. prisingly textured, mouthfilling Gewürztraminer, with (Finger Lakes). Herbal and grassy, with lots 89 abv: 12.7% Price: $16 concentrated stone-fruit flavors and a bristling mineral- of juicy apple and lemon flavors, this is a dry, yet round ity. Drink now. —A.I. and supple Pinot Gris. Effortlessly enjoyable, this fin- Hector Wine Company 2011 Pinot Gris abv: 12.8% Price: $15 ishes quite floral, with just a hint of savory nut skin and (Seneca Lake). Savory in style, with a dusty, smoke. —A.I. 84 chalky minerality, this dry Pinot Gris is crisp and easygo- Casa Larga 2009 Gewürztraminer (Fin­ abv: 12.5% Price: $15 86 ger Lakes). Grassy, herbaceous tones are a tad ing, with a freshly pressed apple flavor that’s marked by pungent, but they add freshness to this lusciously tex- Lakewood 2011 Pinot Gris (Finger whiffs of nut skin and smoke. —A.I. tured, easy-drinking Gewürz. It’s off-dry, with loads of 88 Lakes). Sweet-pea vines and green herbs add abv: 12% Price: $20 fleshy yellow peach, pineapple and melon flavors, with freshness to the perfumed flower and luscious peach- delicate tangerine-juice acidity. Drink now. —A.I. nectar notes. A classically-styled Pinot Gris, this is dry abv: 12.5% Price: $13 yet mouthfilling and rich. It finishes long, with notes of SAUVIGNON BLANC stone fruit and black tea leaves. —A.I. Ravines 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Finger Wagner 2010 Semi Dry - Estate Bottled abv: 13.2% Price: $14 Lakes). Ripe, succulent peach and melon fla- Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Whispers 90 86 vors mark this dry but lusciously textured Sauvignon of smoke and crushed stone add an interesting element Penguin Bay 2011 Pinot Grigio (Finger Blanc. Crisp and minerally, yet juicy and thirst quench- to the fleshy, ripe peach and lychee flavors. A tad sugary Lakes). 88 Hints of honeycomb and beeswax add ing, this has so much dimension in each sip. It finishes on attack, but it finishes dry, with a hint of bitter tea-leaf heft to the notes of fresh green flower and sweet cit- quite floral, with just a touch of lime-pith astringency. notes. —A.I. rus. Ripe yet elegantly composed, this has concentrated Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $13 fruit flavors that extend onto a long, honeysuckle-kissed abv: 12% Price: $18 finish. —A.I. Wagner 2010 Dry Gewürztraminer (Fin­ abv: 12.6% Price: $16 ger Lakes). While the concentrated flavors of Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon 84 Blanc (Finger Lakes). peaches and sweet pears are pleasant, whiffs of smoke Red Newt Cellars 2010 Curry Creek Vine­ 89 Floral and fruity, with and toasted nuts lend a savory, rather atypical character 88 yards Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Ripe hints of peach, muskmelon and quince, this concentrat- to this dry Gewürz. It’s dry and brisk, with soft, lemony notes of stone fruit and apple blossom lend a lavish air ed Sauvignon Blanc bursts with fruity sweetness on the acidity. —A.I. to this dry yet penetrating Pinot Gris. It’s big and volup- attack, becoming refreshingly dry and minerally on the abv: 13.4% Price: $13 tuous, but it finishes clean, with lingering minerality and midpalate. Lime-like acidity brightens the long, white- a flash of green flower. —A.I. peach-flavored finish. —A.I. Silver Thread 2011 Gewurztraminer abv: 14.3% Price: $24 abv: 12% Price: $18 83 (Finger Lakes). Hints of chalk dust and sa- vory stem and leaf notes detract from the bright peach, Sheldrake Point 2011 Pinot Gris (Finger Macari 2011 Katherine’s Field Sauvignon grapefruit and flower notes on both the nose and palate. 88 Lakes). Just a prickle of effervescence on the 88 Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Violet Dry in style, but its a shade sugary on the attack. —A.I. attack braces the palate for a shower of sweet lemon perfume and hints of sweet red berries are intoxicating abv: 12.3% Price: $16 and apple flavors, with hints of fresh dill, white blossom on the nose of this brisk yet concentrated wine. Deli-

WineMag.com | 27 cate flavors of gooseberry and white peach are ripe yet ry notes of this elegant, easy-drinking rosé. Brisk acidity sweet and savory tone to it’s black-cherry-flavored fin- elegant, finishing on a crisp, tonic note. —A.I. and a delicate note of violet-petal spray caps things off. ish. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.7% Price: $25 abv: 12.2% Price: $15 White Springs 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Rooster Hill 2010 Estate Cabernet Franc 85 (Finger Lakes). There’s a slightly dusty, grassy Goose Watch 2011 Cabernet Franc Rosé 87 (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of cured meat and element to this understated Sauvignon Blanc, but the 86 (Finger Lakes). Rose petals and sweet rasp- dark plum compote entice on the nose of this richly palate is nicely concentrated, with abundant yellow- berry candy perfume this dry yet lusciously fruity rosé. fruity Cabernet Franc. The palate is medium bodied peach and tangerine flavors. The lemonade-like acidity It’s easy-drinking, bearing generous black-plum and and luscious, with flavors of sweet red plums and cher- is brisk and refreshing. Drink now. —A.I. cherry flavors, with just a hint of ripe briar. This is a per- ries. Green, leafy notes and nervy acidity add refresh- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 fect apéritif or accompaniment to spicy Thai or Indian ment and verve. —A.I. cuisine. Drink now. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.9% Price: $25 Hector Wine Company 2011 Sauvignon abv: 11.5% Price: $11 84 Blanc (Seneca Lake). A nut skin note and Lakewood 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc a whisper of smoke add a savory element to the lemon (Finger Lakes). Silver Thread 2011 Dry Rosé (Finger 86 At 15.9% abv, this is a mon- and apple aromas. It’s refreshingly light on it’s feet, with ster by Finger Lakes standards, but it’s unsurprising Lakes). There are pretty hints of rose petal a brisk, tonic mouthfeel. —A.I. 84 perhaps for such a hot vintage. A tad jammy on the pal- and fresh apple on this dry Cabernet Franc rosé, but it’s abv: 12% Price: $18 ate, it’s sweet with red cherry fruit that’s framed by her- a tad savory in style, with layers of smoke, dried herb, baceous green notes and layers of soft, furry tannins. leaf and stem. It’s a nice accompaniment to everyday —A.I. OTHER WHITE WINES meals. —A.I. abv: 15.9% Price: $30 abv: 12.1% Price: $16 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Rkatsiteli (Fin­ 88 ger Lakes). Green herbs and grass add fresh- Lakewood 2009 Cabernet Franc (Finger ness to the sweet aromas of quince and peach preserves CABERNET FRANC 85 Lakes). Smoky oak, vanilla spice, savory mush- on this interpretation of the Georgian Rkatsiteli grape. room and wet earth notes add a savory element to the Intense fruit flavors persist on the palate, highlighted Red Newt Cellars 2010 Glacier Ridge bright red-cherry and fresh herb flavors. It’s straightfor- by lemon-lime acidity and lime-pith astringency. —A.I. 90 Vineyards Cabernet Franc (Finger ward, full bodied and pleasant drinking, with a medium- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Lakes). Bold and densely concentrated, this fantastic long finish. —A.I. single-vineyard Cabernet Franc is laden with ripe black abv: 13.3% Price: $16 Goose Watch 2011 Gewürztraminer- fruit, yet it’s balanced by hints of cracked pepper, fresh Seneca Shore NV Amulet Cabernet Franc 88 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Notes of sweet herb and a gorgeous note of violet- and rose-petal spray. (Finger Lakes). The red cherry flavor is bright pea blossoms, freesia and ripe stone fruits perfume this Persistent on the palate, it finishes strong with a mur- 85 and concentrated, marked by savory tones of roasted beautifully executed blend of Riesling and Gewürztra- mur of velvety tannins and an umami-laden hoisin note. beet, spice and a hint of pencil shaving. It’s medium- miner. Light on it’s feet, with zippy acidity, it’s a crisp, —A.I. bodied, with a brisk, easy-drinking mouthfeel. —A.I. thirst-quenching white that finishes on a lavishly floral abv: 14.5% Price: $39 note. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $15 Red Newt Cellars 2010 Cabernet Franc Six Mile Creek 2009 Cabernet Franc (Fin­ (Finger Lakes). Toasted oak adds spice and McGregor 2011 Rkatsiteli-Sereksiya (Fin­ 88 ger Lakes). High toned black-cherry and ber- vanilla notes to the red cherry, pomegranate and leather 85 ger Lakes). This is a highly unusual, quirky ry aromas lead to the concentrated palate that’s full of 86 flavors. This is forward, structured and rich in body, bal- blend of the Georgian Rkatsiteli and Moldovan Serek- ripe sour cherries, marked with dried thyme and a spray anced by brisk acidity and a ruffle of fine-grained tan- siya grapes. Tonic and crisp, it offers robust peach and of lemon acidity. It finishes on a slighty briary note, with nins. It finishes long on a minty sour-cherry note. —A.I. apple flavors on the attack, but fades a bit quickly on the a hint of green and soft, velvety tannins. —A.I. abv: 13.7% Price: $19 midpalate. Straightforward but refreshing. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 11.6% Price: $25 Atwater 2008 Cabernet Franc (Finger Wagner 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet 87 Lakes). Forward and fruity, with loads of sweet 85 Franc (Finger Lakes). Lean red-cherry and ROSÉS cherry flavor, this tasty Cabernet Franc boasts shades of briar scents lend an elegant tone to this brisk, medi- briar, cracked pepper and savory dried herbs that add um-bodied Cabernet Franc. The palate is a shade rip- Knapp 2011 White Cabernet Franc (Fin­ subtlety and depth. Ripe and full in body, it’s balanced er, with black cherry and plum flavors, countered with ger Lakes). Quite dry yet intensely fruity, this 89 by puckery acidity and soft, rippling tannins. —A.I. hints of earth, green leaf and ripe but coarsely grained has loads of fresh strawberry, red cherry and raspber- abv: 13% Price: $17 tannins that linger. —A.I. ry flavors. This finishes with a touch of sweet fruit and abv: 12% Price: $15 a subtle spray of cherry blossom perfume. It’s an un- Keuka Spring 2010 Cabernet Franc (Fin­ abashedly quaffable rosé that’s perfect for entertaining ger Lakes). Notes of ripe, fleshy red fruit on year round. Drink now. Best Buy. —A.I. 87 the nose and palate are grazed with hints of smoked CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 12% Price: $13 meat, nuts and dried sage—an appetizing mélange of Ventosa 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Fin­ Fox Run 2011 Rosé (Finger Lakes). Dry sweet and savory elements. While it’s full bodied, the 87 ger Lakes). Rose petal and cherry blossom 88 as a bone, with bristling minerality, this is an el- zesty acidity makes for a refreshing yet satisfying sip. aromas are stunning additions to the scents of black egant rosé that balances penetrating strawberry, cherry —A.I. cherry and exotic spice. Full bodied, with a deep, fruity and plum flavors with sharp, lime-tinged acidity and a abv: 13% Price: $19 palate, it’s full of ripe black-fruit and crisp red-cherry hint of wildflower. Drink now. —A.I. flavors that are wrapped up in a blanket of silky tannins. abv: 12% Price: $20 McGregor 2007 Reserve Cabernet Franc —A.I. 87 (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of sour Asian plums abv: 13.2% Price: $23 Macari 2011 Rosé (North Fork of Long Is­ and briar patch add complexity to the fleshy cherry 88 land). Hints of ripe briar and tart Asian plums aromas of this composed, full-bodied wine. Brisk acid- Standing Stone 2008 Cabernet Sauvi­ add pucker to the concentrated raspberry and strawber- ity and hints of spice, wet earth and soy sauce lend a 86 gnon (Finger Lakes). Flavors of ripe plums

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 and cherries dusted with graham cracker crumbs and Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins are coarse freshly shaven cedar on this brisk, sprightly wine. Hints purple flowers are pleasant on this delicately structured and a tad grippy, but they taper out nicely toward the of wet leaves and brine add a tinge of savoriness to the Cabernet. It’s straightfoward on the palate, made in a finish. —A.I. palate. —A.I. lean, crisp style, with a fresh layer of green leaves and abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 stems that linger. —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $25 Inspire Moore 2010 Truth Reserve Mer­ 86 lot-Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Juicy DESSERT WINES Fulkerson 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon black cherry and violet notes permeate throughout this Sheldrake Point 2010 Ice Wine Riesling (Finger Lakes). Herbaceous and brisk, this easy-drinking Merlot-based blend. Luscious and fruity, 85 (Finger Lakes). While buoyantly aromatic elegant, medium-bodied Cabernet perks up on the pal- but bold in style, it holds up well to the coating of grippy 91 with aromas of superripe tropical fruit, honeysuckle and ate with its crisp red-fruit and acidity. Straightforward tannins. —A.I. waxy honeycomb, this top-notch ice wine is remarkably yet pleasantly accented with hints of violet and black abv: 13.5% Price: $45 elegant in profile. On the palate, concentrated honey coffee, it would pair well with a variety of earthy, fall and tangerine flavors are matched with steely acidity braises. —A.I. McGregor 2007 Rob Roy Red (Finger that reigns the palate in toward a dry, crisp finish. Edi- abv: 12% Price: $14 Lakes). Hints of black coffee, dried lavender 85 tors’ Choice. —A.I. and herb add punch to the lean plum and cherry flavors abv: 9.1% Price: $60/375 ml McGregor 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon of this medium-bodied Cabernet Franc blend. Brisk on (Finger Lakes). 85 This is pleasant and complex the palate, with an herbaceous, green note that persists, Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Ice Wine on the nose, with hints of violet, ripe black cherry and it finishes firm, with a chalky coating of tannins. —A.I. Vidal Blanc (Finger Lakes). Sticky, sweet a savory meat note that lingers. The palate could use abv: 12.7% Price: $40 90 scents of pineapple, honey and preserved peach are an a tad more concentration, but it’s elegant in style with apt precursor to the intense ripeness of this honeyed ice lean cherry flavor and a flurry of fresh green and floral wine. The palate oozes with butterscotch and caramel accents. —A.I. PINOT NOIR notes, yet it finishes almost dry, with a sweep of acidity abv: 12.7% Price: $30 Keuka Spring 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger that hits the palate like a blade. —A.I. 88 Lakes). Aromatic with ripe black plums, violets abv: 10.7% Price: $70/375 ml and cedar, this elegant Pinot Noir is chock-full of red RED BLENDS cherry and dried plum flavors, fringed with soft, velvety Casa Larga 2008 Fiori Delle Stelle Ice Red Newt Cellars 2010 Viridescens (Fin­ tannins. Vibrant acidity leads to a long finish, flecked 89 Wine Vidal Blanc (Finger Lakes). Sweet 90 ger Lakes). Hints of thyme, sage, violet and with graphite and dried herb notes. —A.I. confectionery aromas and a butterscotch richness ex- coffee are just a handful of the nuances that color this abv: 12.3% Price: $19 tend from the nose to the palate on this ice wine, meld- composed Bordeaux-style Blend. Brisk acidity balances ing with ripe mango and pineapple flavors. Steely acid- the bold, ripe fruit, leading to a fresh, herbaceous finish Casa Larga 2009 Pinot Noir (Finger ity and a hint of bitter toffee add balance and dimension with penetrating tannins. Drink now over a long eve- 87 Lakes). Whiffs of mushroom and autumn leaf to the finish. —A.I. ning, or better yet, cellar it for 3–5 years to let all of the add complexity to this Pinot Noir’s dried cherry, straw- abv: 11.7% Price: $45/375 ml components come together. Cellar Selection. —A.I. berry and violet aromas. The palate boasts an ample abv: 13.9% Price: $52 black-cherry flavor and delicate tannins that linger on the Standing Stone 2010 Vidal Ice Vidal finish, melding into a dark chocolate and graphite- 89 Blanc (Finger Lakes). Intensely aromatic Imagine Moore 2007 TRUTH Red Table tinged note. —A.I. with notes of orange blossom, honeysuckle and candied 88 Wine (Finger Lakes). Notes of sweet vanil- abv: 12% Price: $15 orange peel, this balances ripe tropical fruit and creamy la and biscuit crumbs add a warm, sweet touch to the butterscotch flavors with a shower of lemonade acidity. nose and palate of this elegant Bordeaux-style blend. Fulkerson 2009 Pinot Noir (Finger Made using grapes that were frozen post-harvest. —A.I. Bright acidity accentuates the flavors of tart red plums 87 Lakes). Savory, rustic notes of dried mush- abv: 11.7% Price: $25 and raspberries along with a flurry of fine-grained yet room and toasted nuts mingle with richly concentrated penetrating tannins that linger. —A.I. black-cherry and rose-petal flavors on this dry, medium- Mazza Vineyards 2010 Ice Wine Vidal abv: 12% Price: $22 bodied Pinot Noir. Soft tannins and just a shade of toast- 88 Blanc (Lake Erie). Once you get beyond the ed oak add richness and dimension to the palate. —A.I. billowing violet and gardenia notes on the nose and pal- Keuka Spring 2010 Epic Reserve (Finger abv: 12% Price: $16 ate, you’re likely to find a surprisingly delicate sip that’s 88 Lakes). Fleshy, ripe black-fruit flavors are ac- bright with lime-juice acidity and honeyed pineapple cented with hints of dried herb and dark, toasted oak Six Mile Creek 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger and hibiscus-nectar flavors. —A.I. on this rich, concentrated Bordeaux-style blend. Zingy 87 Lakes). This is zesty and bright, bearing puck- abv: 11% Price: $43/375 ml acidity and a supple layer of tannins add texture and bal- ery pomegranate and red berry flavors, with an element ance, finishing on a delicious spiced-cherry note. —A.I. of briny, umami-laden goodness that brings truffles and Lucas Vineyards 2010 Iced Vidal Blanc abv: 12.8% Price: $25 smoked nuts to mind. Soft tannins lead to a sour-cher- 87 (Finger Lakes). Rich and honeyed on the ry-flavored finish that’s flecked with notes of herbs and nose and palate, this is chock-full of superripe tropical Atwater 2009 Red Table Wine Meritage dried leaves. —A.I. fruit notes, spiked with hints of white truffle, black tea 87 (Finger Lakes). Forward and rich, with fla- abv: NA Price: $16 and sweet brioche. It’s an interesting mélange of yum- vors of luscious red cherries spiked with cola and pur- miness, but there’s just a hint of something chemical on ple flowers, this is an easy-drinking yet undeniably tasty Lakewood 2009 Pinot Noir (Finger the nose and palate that distracts. —A.I. blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Big, 86 Lakes). Delicate sour cherry and plum flavors abv: 10% Price: $25 chunky tannins and a spray of sour-cherry acidity add are intensified by notes of black coffee, fresh green herb depth and verve to the midpalate. —A.I. and aromatic cedar. This medium-bodied Pinot Noir is abv: 13% Price: $21 earthy and savory, with refreshingly high acidity. —A.I. WASHINGTON abv: 13% Price: $16 Atwater 2009 Cabernet Merlot Cabernet CHARDONNAY 86 Sauvignon-Merlot (Finger Lakes). Notes Seneca Shore NV Amulet DeMarco Vine­ of violet petal and graham cracker crumb accent juicy 86 yards Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). A tart Gorman 2011 The Big Sissy Conner Lee red plum and cherry flavors on this full-bodied blend of sour-cherry note is warmed by hints of sweet vanilla and 94 Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).

WineMag.com | 29 A consistent winner, this single-vineyard Chardonnay is It opens up nicely with some breathing time; decanting Waterbrook 2011 Pinot Gris (Columbia barrel fermented in 100% new French oak, using wild would not be out of order. —P.G. 88 Valley). Spicy and herbal, with a palate rem- yeast. The scents and flavors are exceptionally detailed, abv: 14.5% Price: $28 iniscent of Sauvignon Blanc, this blends a grassy aro- running from fresh clover into tree fruit, yeast and lots ma with a mix of citrus, apple and pear notes. It has of toast. It has structure, grip and length. Editors’ Six Prong 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia excellent concentration through the midpalate, with a Choice. —P.G. 89 Valley). This crisp, clean, stainless-steel style of clean, fresh finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $35 Chardonnay brings has mixed flavors of cucumber, cel- abv: 13.1% Price: $12 ery, lime and light melon. It’s fresh and immaculate—a Abeja 2011 Chardonnay (Washington). wonderful sipper. Best Buy. —P.G. Airfield Estates 2011 Pinot Gris (Yaki­ 93 Another classic vintage of Abeja Chardonnay, abv: 13% Price: $12 87 ma Valley). There is a sweet streak running this is a memorable style that’s built around yummy through the fleshy fruit flavors of pear and peach. This is barrel flavors of toast and caramel, with notes of stone Hogue 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val­ pure Pinot Gris, balanced with high acidity, sweet fruit fruits. The three vineyard sources—Celilo, Conner Lee, 88 ley). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. and slightly bitter flavors of skin and rind. —P.G. and French Creek—form a perfect crescent across the abv: 13.8% Price: $11 abv: 13.2% Price: $15 state and capture the essence of three quite different AVAs. It has lovely texture and length, with impeccable Bridgman 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Hogue 2011 Pinot Grigio (Columbia Val­ balance throughout. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 87 Valley). The nose is spicy and enticing, with 86 ley). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 highlights of pineapple and grapefruit. On the palate, abv: 12.7% Price: $11 the fruit is tart but nicely balanced, with defining acidity Browne Family Vineyards 2010 Chardon­ and a finishing pat of butter. Best Buy. —P.G. 92 nay (Columbia Valley). This is the inaugural abv: 14% Price: $11 RIESLING release for Browne Family Chardonnay. Crisp and lee- Efesté 2011 Evergreen Vineyard Riesling Lone Birch 2011 Chardonnay (Yakima sy, it has a smooth, creamy midpalate, with a buttered (Columbia Valley). Marvelous details of tea, Valley). This new producer’s family has been 93 toast highlight. Refreshing acidity and excellent length 87 honeysuckle and lemon mark the entry of this excep- farming in the Yakima Valley for four generations. A fine keep it fresh and lively. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. tional Riesling. It’s vivid and textural, with terrific acid- debut, this has clean apple and peach flavors, with sup- abv: 14% Price: $35 ity, backbone and length—cellar worthy for sure. Cel- porting acids and a sensible price. —P.G. lar Selection. —P.G. Efesté 2010 Lola Chardonnay (Columbia abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 12.1% Price: $18 92 Valley). This is concentrated and complex, with Waterbrook 2010 Reserve Chardonnay hints of flower, citrus flesh and rind, gooseberry and Bridgman 2011 Riesling (Columbia Val­ (Columbia Valley). Strong scents and flavors chamomile. It’s labeled Columbia Valley but the Ever- 87 ley). In a state with a plethora of Riesling of oak and spice mask the fruit. It feels a bit flat on the 92 green Vineyard, from where the grapes are sourced, sits riches, this is a standout. Full, fresh, bright and com- palate, as if heading toward early oxidation. The oak and in the heart of Washington’s next likely American Viti- plex, it opens with a bouquet of lime, citrus blossom butterscotch flavors carry through onto the finish. Two cultural Area—Ancient Lakes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and tea scents. The flavors follow—off-dry, detailed, bottles tasted. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $30 balanced and vivid. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 11% Price: $11 Apex 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val­ Airfield Estates 2011 Unoaked Chardon­ 91 ley). For full review see page 9. Editors’ Washington Hills 2011 Late Harvest nay (Yakima Valley). Sharp and spicy, this is a Choice. 86 Riesling (Washington). For full review see high-acid, stainless-steel-fermented wine, with a green 90 abv: 14% Price: $17 page 12. Best Buy. berry note and a hint of melon. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $10 Lauren Ashton 2011 Chardonnay (Co­ abv: 12.5% Price: $15 91 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 9. Lone Birch 2011 Riesling (Yakima Val­ Hogue 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Yaki­ Editors’ Choice. ley). This is a good, round, fruity style of Ries- ma Valley). Just 183 cases were made of this 88 abv: 13.1% Price: $25 86 ling. It’s off-dry (2.6% residual sugar), with flavors of wine, which has firm stone fruits and a more-than-gen- pineapple, sweet tangerine and Meyer lemon. The fruit Sleight of Hand 2010 The Enchantress erous amount of toast and butter. If you like your Char- is simply delicious; drink now. Best Buy. —P.G. Old Vine Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). donnays on the extra oaky side, this is for you. —P.G. 91 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 It’s rare that domestic Chardonnay is truly Chablis-like, abv: 14.3% Price: $25 but this delicately framed wine fits that description per- Sleight of Hand 2011 The Magician Ever­ Page Cellars 2010 Autumn Chase Char­ fectly. Nuanced with mineral and spice notes, this has green Vineyard White Wine Riesling (Co­ donnay (Columbia Valley). Sourced from 88 melon and apple flavors that seem to sail on a gentle sea 85 lumbia Valley). Despite its 2.4% residual sugar, this is the Sundance Vineyard, this is a soft and oaky Chardon- breeze. It doesn’t slam you with oak, instead it seduces a tart, lemony wine that seems made to enjoy with raw nay, with a round, buttery finish. Best enjoyed in the with you style. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. oysters. The searing acidity is not for everyone, but if next year or two. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $28 you like lip-smacking tartness, this has the depth and abv: 14.1% Price: $19 flavor to match it. —P.G. Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2009 Reserve abv: 12.5% Price: $18 90 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This has PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO melon, grapefruit and lime flavors that are buoyed by Waterbrook 2011 Riesling (Columbia Val­ generous acidity. Aged in French oak on its lees for nine Lone Birch 2011 Pinot Gris (Yakima Val­ 88 ley). Off-dry and loaded with flavors of lemon, months, this is lightly toasty, nicely balanced, and drink- 89 ley). With balance and grip, this lightly effer- honey and tea, this is a rather fleshy Riesling. The al- ing perfectly right now. —P.G. vescent wine rolls from a pretty pear flavor into a light most 2% residual sugar leads into a slightly sweet finish. abv: 14% Price: $20 tropical fruit note. It’s hard to beat at this price. Best Best Buy. —P.G. Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.2% Price: $12 àMaurice 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia abv: 13% Price: $13 89 Valley). Quite oaky on the nose, showing lots Airfield Estates 2011 Riesling (Yakima of caramel and butterscotch flavors on the palate, this 85 Valley). The 2011 vintage created wines with Chardonnay is anchored by its apple and peach flavors.

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 underripeness and low alcohol, and this Riesling at- Sémillon and Pinot Gris. Notes of green berries and tempts to cut the sourness with its 2.4% residual sugar. VIOGNIER other green fruits—notably banana—all have an herbal It comes across as a mix of lemon juice, orange juice, àMaurice 2010 Viognier (Columbia Val­ underpinning. —P.G. and simple sweetness. —P.G. 93 ley). Superconcentrated, unctuous and lush, abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 11.2% Price: $15 this mixes a note of lemon drop with a hint of ripe tropi- cal fruit. On the palate, this shows terrific concentra- Domaine Pouillon 2010 Blanc du Mou­ Pine & Post NV Riesling (Washington). tion, bearing hints of honey and lemon curd, with a 85 lin Roussanne-Viognier (Horse Heaven 85 This nonvintage Riesling offers light apple fla- crisp, lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Hills). From the cool 2010 vintage, this the blend of vors and a hint of spice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $25 80% Roussanne and 20% Viognier comes across as slen- abv: 11% Price: $8 der and yeasty, simple and tart. —P.G. Abeja 2011 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley). abv: 14.3% Price: $24 91 This much-sought-after, estate-grown Viognier SAUVIGNON BLANC is in short supply in 2011, but it’s exemplary for its struc- OTHER WHITE WINES Barrister 2011 Klipsun Vineyard Sauvi­ ture and class. Flavors of lime skin and grapefruit, wet stone and citrus abound. The cool vintage led to low gnon Blanc (Red Mountain). An excellent Lauren Ashton 2011 Roussanne (Colum­ 92 yields—under two tons per acre. All neutral oak was follow-up to the luscious 2010, this features a generous 92 bia Valley). For full review see page 8. Edi- used. —P.G. array of melon, citrus and light tropical fruits. There tors’ Choice. abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 13.2% Price: $25 is noticeable residual sugar—much in the style of the Sancerres from French producer Cotat—but at one- Mark Ryan 2010 Viognier (Columbia Val­ DiStefano 2011 Sémillon (Columbia Val­ third the cost. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ley). Smooth and silky, this lovely Viognier be- ley). This round, fruity and smooth-drink- abv: NA Price: $19 91 89 gins with flavors of citrus, lemongrass and fresh herb, ing Sémillon carries touches of herb and cucumber before continuing into a well-rounded, full-flavored alongside its main fruit flavors of citrus and melon. Efesté 2011 Feral Sauvignon Blanc (Co­ midpalate that hints at just a touch of residual sugar. There is a hint of heat on the finish. —P.G. lumbia Valley). Texture, texture, texture— 92 —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 that’s the story with this wine. Fermented using wild abv: 13.9% Price: $28 yeast, this Sauvignon Blanc dazzles the palate with notes Lone Birch 2011 Gewürztraminer (Ya­ of sweet grass, clover, grapefruit and mineral. It’s made 88 kima Valley). Just a hint of sweetness is per- in a lip-smacking, tart and tangy style, with a wet stone WHITE BLENDS ceived, coming from the 1.1% residual sugar. Fresh and finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Lauren Ashton 2011 Cuvée Méline (Co­ fruity, with grapefruit and orange flavors dominating, abv: 13.4% Price: $20 92 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 8. this is forward, round and flavorful, with just a hint of Editors’ Choice. steel in its spine. Best Buy. —P.G. Avennia 2011 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12.8% Price: $13 88 (Yakima Valley). Sourced from the Boushey abv: 13.4% Price: $28 Vineyard, this is a tart take on Sauvignon Blanc. Once Brian Carter Cellars 2010 Oriana (Yaki­ Domaine Pouillon 2011 Gewürztraminer past the acid rush, you’ll find a tightly focused wine, (Columbia Valley). ma Valley). An aromatic blend of 46% Viog- 87 This wine puts the floral with laser-like precision and a wealth of mineral and 91 nier, 37% Roussanne, 17% Riesling, this bears com- aspects of the varietal front and center. Rose petal and lemon flavors. —P.G. plex scents and flavors of oranges and apricots, which flower-soap aromas lead onto the palate that bears simi- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 lar flavors and a hint of residual sugar. It shows nice con- are joined by notes of grapefruit and melon, and com- centration. —P.G. plemented with juicy acidity. One-third was barrel fer- DiStefano 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Co­ abv: 13.7% Price: $16 mented in neutral oak, and a portion was left on its lees lumbia Valley). Grassy and audaciously her- 88 for added texture. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. baceous, this is a fresh and high-acid Sauvignon Blanc, abv: 13.2% Price: $25 finishing with a blast of pepper. The blend includes 10% ROSÉS Sémillon. —P.G. Cadaretta 2011 sbs Sauvignon Blanc- Lauren Ashton 2011 Rosé of Sangiovese abv: 13.8% Price: $13 91 Semillon (Columbia Valley). For full review 92 (Columbia Valley). For full review see page se page 9. 8. Editors’ Choice. Page Cellars 2010 Sentimental Blonde abv: 13.1% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $18 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Red Mountain). Ripe and accessible, this Klipsun Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Southard 2010 White (Columbia Valley). Southard 2011 Lawrence Vineyard Le includes 20% Sémillon in the blend. Melon and light 91 A blend of Viognier and Roussanne, this hum- 92 Paon Rosé (Columbia Valley). Put this into citrus flavors abound, with enough acidity to keep it bly-labeled white is a revelation. On the palate, it has a blind flight of French rosé, and it will seem like one fresh and lively. —P.G. the style and sleekness of fine Burgundy, with flavors of the crowd. Crafted from 65% Grenache, 29% Syr- abv: 14.1% Price: $19 running through a spectrum of herb, citrus and tree ah and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is bone dry, dusty fruits. This is polished and seductive. Editors’ Choice. and detailed, showing a gorgeous onion-skin hue. The Tildio 2011 Lonesome Spring Ranch Sau­ —P.G. elegance and length are exceptional. Editors’ Choice. 87 vignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Lightly abv: 14.5% Price: $16 —P.G. scented with a Riesling-like petrol note, this pungent, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 grassy Sauvignon Blanc offers a crisply focused mix of Thurston Wolfe 2011 PGV (Washington). celery, green berry and spring herb. —P.G. 90 Bright, fresh and fruity, this is loaded with cit- Efesté 2011 Babbitt Rosé (Columbia Val­ abv: NA Price: $20 rus—especially grapefruit—goodness. There are lay- 91 ley). Mostly Syrah, with some Cabernet Sauvi- ers of pears and peaches, making this a big, fruity, gnon, this is a succulent rosé with a marvelous mouth- Airfield Estates 2011 Sauvignon Blanc mouth-filling wine. Best Buy. —P.G. feel. Texture and length are its main charms, with nu- 86 (Yakima Valley). This is lightly grassy and abv: 12.5% Price: $15 anced notes of rose petal, hibiscus, watermelon and pie quite fresh. Whatever the residual sugar may be, it sim- cherry. The vineyard sources are Klipsun, Boushey and ply helps round out the searing acidity. —P.G. Airfield Estates 2011 Flygirl (Yakima Val­ Ciel du Cheval. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 11.7% Price: $15 87 ley). This spicy white blend mixes Viognier, abv: 13.9% Price: $20

WineMag.com | 31 Board Track Racer 2011 The Vincent ute further to the concentrated finish.Cellar Selec- vines. Round and full, the wine seems to have spent 90 Rosé (Columbia Valley). This brings mixed tion. —P.G. a fair amount of time in barrel, showing pretty baking notes of melon and stone fruit, with a hint of toast and abv: 14.6% Price: $49 spices along with tangy fruit. —P.G. nougat on the finish. Smooth and lingering, this has ex- abv: 13% Price: $20 ceptional body. Best Buy. —P.G. Rasa Vineyards 2009 Creative Impulse abv: 13.9% Price: $15 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This Gilbert Cellars 2009 Doc Stewart Vine­ blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot is 87 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Sleight of Hand 2011 The Magician’s As­ sourced from the excellent DuBrul Vineyard. The fruit Slope). Using grapes sourced from an older vineyard 90 sistant Cabernet Franc Rosé (Yakima Val­ is magnificent, smoothly presented in a flow of cherry, on the Wahluke Slope, this pure Cabernet mixes black- ley). Complex and finessed, this has loads of flavor. The plum and prune flavors. It seems soaked in chocolate, berry and black cherry fruit with a lightly smoky core. pretty cherry and plum notes are framed with a milk with a Bourbon-barrel highlight. The tannins are fine- It thins out quickly, and shows a hint of green in its tan- chocolate accent. The modest alcohol in no way dimin- grained and contribute to the overall length. —P.G. nins. —P.G. ishes the concentration. —P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $95 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 12.9% Price: $18 Gorman 2008 The Bully Cabernet Sauvi­ Roza Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Gilbert Cellars 2011 Mourvèdre (Colum­ 91 gnon (Red Mountain). Big and quite tannic, 87 (Rattlesnake Hills). This is a sophisticated 86 bia Valley). Very pale copper in tone, this is this is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Pe- Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated, Bordeaux-style blend, a delicate rosé that’s made entirely from Mourvèdre. tit Verdot. The combination of Red Mountain fruit and with 9% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec. It Hints of peach, melon and a light flower top note are the naturally tannic Petit Verdot is balanced against by carries a note of leather and drying tannins, suggesting evident. —P.G. the tart, juicy berry flavors and the influence from hav- that you should drink it fairly soon. It should be deli- abv: 13.1% Price: $15 ing aged in 100% new French oak. Nothing shy here, cious with a grilled steak. Best Buy. —P.G. but the floral and citrusy aromatics add a welcome layer abv: 13.9% Price: $14 Ott & Murphy 2011 Chanson Rosé (Co­ of complexity. —P.G. 83 lumbia Valley). This rosé—a blend of Tem- abv: 15% Price: $45 Three Rivers 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard pranillo and Grenache—is light on flavor. A thin note of 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Val­ watermelon and a hint of peach pit quickly fade. —P.G. Cadaretta 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co­ ley). This shows smooth, varietally correct fruit, howev- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 90 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 9. er, the flavors are a bit muted. The softness is pleasant, abv: 14.9% Price: $40 but takes the lift out of the wine, finishing with drying tannins. —P.G. CABERNET SAUVIGNON DiStefano 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co­ abv: 14.6% Price: $39 lumbia Valley). Smooth and spicy, this high- Abeja 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum­ 90 lights its pretty cherry fruit, with generous barrel flavors Six Prong 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon bia Valley). Complex and compelling, this es- 95 of coffee and dark chocolate. The tannins are rounded, (Horse Heaven Hills). With scents that tate-grown Syrah sends up smoky notes of cured meat, 86 adding a bit of coal dust to the flavor mix. This is an ideal are high toned and slightly green, this sharp and leafy nougat and caramel. Black cherry fruit anchors the bar- wine to accompany a thick, well-marbled steak. —P.G. Cabernet includes smaller percentages of Malbec, Pe- rel notes, and it just gets more and more delicious as it abv: 15.4% Price: $28 tit Verdot and Merlot that are sourced from the Alder winds its way across the palate. This is a solid demon- Ridge Vineyard. Compact flavors of cassis, smoke and stration of classy winemaking and perfect balance. Edi- Hogue 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi­ earth combine to form its core. —P.G. tors’ Choice. —P.G. gnon (Columbia Valley). Good juice an- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.8% Price: $44 90 chors this Cabernet blend, with the 13% Malbec and 10% Merlot filling in the flavors. Cassis and pomegran- Airfield Estates 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­ Mark Ryan 2009 Lonely Heart Cabernet ate notes hit first, followed by darker notes of cacao and gnon (Yakima Valley). A tough vintage turns Sauvignon (Red Mountain). For full review 85 95 coffee, dotted with black pepper. —P.G. out a tough wine—chewy, tart, slender and herbal. see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 Some pretty blackberry fruit is tucked tightly into the abv: 14.7% Price: $80 core, but it is overtaken by the acidity and drying tan- Rasa Vineyards 2009 Plus One Cabernet Gorman 2009 The Albatross Reserve nins. —P.G. Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Crisp and pen- Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). 90 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 94 etrating, with great fruit purity, the wine’s core bears This reserve-level Cabernet—made from grapes cassis and black cherry flavors. The tannins are supple, Page Cellars 2007 Preface Cabernet sourced partly from 35-year-old vines—is lovely in its even silky, and the finish is smooth, with dark accents. Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Using grapes wealth of detail. A brambly, elegant mouthful of ber- 84 —P.G. sourced from a Red Mountain vineyard, this pure Cab- ry and cherry flavors mingles with a note of rose petal. abv: 14.4% Price: $75 ernet seems to have been overripened. Notes of rai- The finish is soaked in graphite, with length, grip and sin and prune appear on the nose and palate, and the finesse.Cellar Selection. —P.G. Sheridan Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Sau­ mouthfeel is chalky and a bit flat. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $80 90 vignon (Yakima Valley). Lush and gener- abv: 14.2% Price: $37 ous, this has a center of blackberry fruit, showing barrel Alder Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon accents of sweet baking spices. Notes of graphite and (Horse Heaven Hills). For full review see 93 clean earth round out the finish. —P.G. MALBEC page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 àMaurice 2009 Malbec (Columbia Val­ ley). Pretty and deep, this has notes of juicy Hyatt 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rattle­ 90 Efesté 2009 Big Papa Cabernet Sauvi­ boysenberry, blueberry and cherry. The balanced acid- snake Hills). For full review see page 12. Best gnon (Columbia Valley). This is pure Cab- 89 ity and racy tannins give it substance and style. —P.G. 93 Buy. ernet that was sourced from four vineyards, with vines abv: 14.9% Price: $35 abv: 13.9% Price: $12 averaging 31 years. True noninterventionist winemak- ing is in play to make this chewy, tight and dark effort. Roza Ridge 2009 Malbec (Rattlesnake Crossfork Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­ This is grainy and dense, with notes of cassis, coffee and Hills). Nicely concentrated, with a touch of gnon (Yakima Valley). The grapes used for 89 cacao. A thread of smoke and a touch of gravel contrib- 88 Petit Verdot in the blend, this complex effort incorpo- this estate-grown Cabernet are sourced from younger

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 rates notes of tangy berry, forest leaf and a hint of mint. mocha-flavored finish. The muscle is there to reward The barrel influence lends coffee and light toast notes, RED BLENDS cellaring for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. which are symmetrical and proportionate. —P.G. Lauren Ashton 2009 Cuvée Arlette (Red abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 14.4% Price: $20 95 Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.. Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Corrida Thurston Wolfe 2009 McKinley Springs abv: 14.9% Price: $50 92 Tempranillo-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon- 89 Vineyard Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). Garnacha-Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Only two barrels were made of this pure Malbec, a Mark Ryan 2009 Long Haul Merlot-Cab­ For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. tightly wound wine with a well-defined mix of berry, 95 ernet Franc-Malbec-Petit Verdot (Red abv: 14.5% Price: $35 bramble, bark and herb. It shows good balance and Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selec- Brian Carter Cellars 2007 Solesce Red good length, with a finish that’s streaked with notes of tion. Wine (Yakima Valley). For full review see coffee and chocolate. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $48 92 page 7. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Lauren Ashton 2009 Cuvée Mirabelle abv: 14.6% Price: $60 Tildio 2009 Malbec (Columbia Valley). 94 (Red Mountain). For full review see page 4. Sleight of Hand 2009 Archimage (Co­ Using grapes sourced from the excellent Still- Editors’ Choice. 85 abv: 14.9% Price: $52 lumbia Valley). A blend of 50% Merlot and water Creek Vineyard, this is a ripe—to the point of be- 92 50% Cabernet Franc, this has an intriguing spicy ac- ing pruny—yet acidic red wine. The unsettled mix of Lauren Ashton 2009 Proprietor’s Cuvée cent that’s reminiscent of fresh pine. It’s front-loaded raisiny fruit and chalky acids may or may not shake out 94 (Red Mountain). For full review see page 5 with generous blueberry fruit that’s streaked with an an- with further bottle age. —P.G. Cellar Selection. ise note, flowing nicely into the polished tannins. This abv: NA Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $50 shows good focus and length. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $45 Mark Ryan 2009 The Dissident Merlot- MERLOT 94 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah-Malbec-Petit Soos Creek 2009 Palisade (Columbia Hyatt 2009 Merlot (Rattlesnake Hills). For Verdot (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 92 Valley). The Palisade blend swings widely 90 full review see page 12. Best Buy. 5. Editors’ Choice. from year to year: pure Merlot one year, no Merlot the abv: 13.9% Price: $12 abv: 14.7% Price: $32 next. Here the principal grape is Cabernet Franc, with a little Cabernet Sauvignon also. Smoky and focused, Hogue 2007 Reserve Merlot (Wahluke Soos Creek 2009 Champoux Vineyard it’s a riot of loganberry, blueberry and other blue and 88 Slope). This is a very late release for this 2007 94 (Horse Heaven Hills). Absolutely huge fruit purple fruits. The tangy mouthfeel brings in streaks of Merlot, and the wine is well on its way to full matu- blows out of this bottle as soon as it’s opened. A rush of coffee and mineral, with a tart, elegant finish.Editors’ rity. Smooth and supple, its fruit is drying out, showing gorgeous black cherry is buoyed by snappy acidity and Choice. —P.G. cherry-flavored fruit leather as the main component. generously finished with smoke and coffee accents from abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Streaks of coffee and tobacco fill in the finish. —P.G. having aged in 50% new oak. Details of iron and baking àMaurice 2009 Red (Columbia Valley). abv: 14.3% Price: $30 spice emerge also, and the silky tannins glide through a lengthy and delightful finish. A blend of 87% Cabernet 91 Upon opening, it’s compact and tangy, with Roza Ridge 2009 Merlot (Rattlesnake Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot. Edi- deep fruit flavors of raspberry, red plum and pie cherry. There is a lot of life to this wine, with fresh and clean Hills). This Merlot has a fair splash of both tors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 fruit flavors. It needs time to develop in the bottle. A Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. It does not shy away abv: NA Price: $40 blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet from underbrush accents of leaf and herb, adding com- Soos Creek 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vine­ Franc and 33% Merlot. Cellar Selection. —P.G. plexity to the cherry fruit. —P.G. yard Red Wine (Red Mountain). For full abv: 14.6% Price: $35 abv: 13.9% Price: $14 94 review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Trentenaire Hogue 2008 Genesis Merlot (Columbia (Columbia Valley). Based on Petit Verdot, Valley). For full review see page 11. 91 87 Gramercy Cellars 2009 L’idiot du Village this blend is tart and toasty as well as tangy and seem- abv: 14.2% Price: $16 93 (Columbia Valley). This is modeled on south- ingly slightly sweet from its luscious black fruits. Pep- ern Rhône blends—a fairly straightforward mix of 85% pery tannins and highlights of cedar and roasted meat Waterbrook 2009 Reserve Merlot (Co­ Syrah and 15% Grenache. Grainy and smoky, with a add further interest. —P.G. lumbia Valley). This is a bit lighter than the 87 slight charred aspect, this focused effort displays deep abv: 14.2% Price: $50 previous vintage, offering tart red-berry fruit, accent- pomegranate fruit, soaked in soy, balsamic and other ed with a note of fresh herb. The chocolaty barrel ac- umami notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Cadaretta 2009 Windthrow (Columbia cents smooth out the midpalate and lead into a pleasant abv: 14.2% Price: $42 91 Valley). Windthrow is a southern Rhône-style finish. —P.G. blend—66% Syrah, the rest a mix of Mourvèdre and abv: 13.7% Price: $24 Mark Ryan 2009 Dead Horse Cabernet Grenache. Dense, dark and smoky, it’s got a peppery 93 Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc-Malbec-Mer­ nose, followed by bright raspberry fruit and an accent Airfield Estates 2010 Merlot (Yakima Val­ lot-Petit Verdot (Red Mountain). For full review of roasted game bird. The wine has both lift and length, 86 ley). Firm, hard, tart and chewy, this has tight see page 7. Cellar Selection. with sharp acidity. —P.G. black fruits, high acids and earthy tannins, which are abv: 14.7% Price: $52 abv: 14.2% Price: $50 lightened with a note of pretty baking spice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Soos Creek 2009 Artist Series #9 (Co­ Efesté 2009 Final-Final Cabernet Sauvi­ 93 lumbia Valley). This new Artist Series red 91 gnon-Syrah (Columbia Valley). This shows Tildio 2009 Merlot (Wahluke Slope). This is like a reserve version of the 2009 Palisade, with a the textural depth of all the Efesté wines. A floral top 85 is a fruity Merlot with a strong lemony streak. similar blend—79% Cabernet Franc and 21% Cab- note gives way to firm, dark, cassis and blackberry fla- There are hints of pepper as well. Drink soon. —P.G. ernet Sauvignon. Tight and tannic, it has excellent vors. Light notes of herb, anise and earth are introduced abv: 14.5% Price: $27 structure and depth, with a black fruit note, and a and set comfortably into the lengthy finish. It has great

WineMag.com | 33 power and flavor, with the possibility of cellaring for a Gorman 2009 The Evil Twin Syrah-Cab­ smoky charcoal. Mouth-filling and tannic, this Cab- decade or more. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 90 ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This is ernet-based blend is built for near-term enjoyment. abv: 14.6% Price: $27 pretty much the same blend as Zachary’s Ladder, but —P.G. with higher alcohol and all new French oak. Perhaps abv: 15.3% Price: $32 Gorman 2009 Zachary’s Ladder (Colum­ the wine is not yet fully resolved, as the gamy Syrah and 91 bia Valley). It’s labeled simply Columbia Val- grippy, tannic Cabernet seem to be butting heads. The Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Abracadab­ ley but in fact it’s made from all Red Mountain fruit. broadly displayed red fruits leave a chalky finish. —P.G. 88 ra (Columbia Valley). This reliable blend is Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, with a splash abv: 15.2% Price: $65 made from up to 11 different grapes. A riot of fruit, of Petit Verdot, this is quite ripe and sweetly juicy—like berry and spice, it’s a fine all-purpose red with good bal- a big bowl of blackberries. Aged in once-used French Thurston Wolfe 2009 Dr. Wolfe’s Family ance and lift. —P.G. oak, it has picked up some char and graphite notes. Edi- 90 Red (Washington). This is a particularly fine abv: 14.2% Price: $20 tors’ Choice. —P.G. vintage for the popular Dr. Wolfe’s, maintaining the cus- abv: 14.8% Price: $30 tomary blend of Primitivo, Lemberger and Petite Sirah. DiStefano 2008 domenica (Columbia Val­ Dark and smoky, with dense flavors of berry, cassis, lico- 88 ley). Made from mostly Merlot, this accessible, Soos Creek 2009 Sundance (Columbia rice and dark chocolate, it is far more substantial than smooth-drinking blend is well on its way to maturity. 91 Valley). A great vintage for the Sundance Red, most red blends in this price range. Best Buy. —P.G. Pretty plum and chocolate flavors meld with soft, mel- this is 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 18% abv: 14.5% Price: $15 low tannins and a touch of barrel spice. —P.G. Cabernet Franc and 14% Syrah. The addition of Syr- abv: 15% Price: $24 ah really livens up the mix. It’s a supple, sappy, sinuous Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Byzance (Co­ red, with rich and complex cherry and berry fruits. The 89 lumbia Valley). This is Brian Carter’s South- Efesté 2009 Tough Guy (Red Mountain). 30% new oak is not only lavish for a $20 wine, but it ern Rhône-influenced blend, which is comprised of 88 This Merlot-Cabernet Blend is quite tannic, judiciously complements all of the good fruit. Editors’ 50% Grenache, 22% Syrah, 19% Mourvèdre, 6% Cou- chewy and tight. It certainly does not lack flavor, how- Choice. —P.G. noise and 3% Cinsault. Expressive aromas put the em- ever, the notes of cassis and peppery herbs are set in a abv: 14.1% Price: $20 phasis on bright berries that are annotated with baking rough-and-tumble frame of massive tannins. This one spice, toast and a hint of forest leaf. This is complex and needs to be paired with a thick, greasy steak. —P.G. Southard 2010 Sugarloaf Vineyard (Yaki­ forward, with excellent balance and structure. The fin- abv: 14.6% Price: $55 91 ma Valley). This bone-dry, Southern Rhône- ish fades gently with a hint of anise. —P.G. style blend consists of 61% Grenache, 18% Mourvèdre, abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Ott & Murphy 2008 Radieux (Columbia 12% Cinsault and 9% Counoise. Elegant and detailed 88 Valley). A five-grape Bordeaux-style blend, this flavors of light berry and Bing cherry are dusted with a DiStefano 2008 Proprietor’s Reserve Ot­ has a scent of rose water that drifts above earthier notes cocoa accent. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 89 timo (Columbia Valley). A blend of Caber- and tart berry flavors. Tight and focused, it finishes with abv: 14.5% Price: $20 net Sauvignon, with 10% Syrah added in, this is an ap- a lick of cola and espresso. —P.G. pealing and forward wine, with a strong streak of barrel abv: 14.3% Price: $31 Thurston Wolfe 2008 The Geologist Pre­ spice. Powdered sugar, cooked cherry, cassis and dark 91 mium Red Wine (Washington). For full re- chocolate are the highlights. It showcases the lush, for- Sleight of Hand 2009 The Illusionist (Co­ view see page 9. Cellar Selection. ward, spicy, barrel-influenced style of all the DiStefano 88 lumbia Valley). This is very spicy and smooth, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 reds. —P.G. with floral accents and a plummy core. It drinks well, abv: 15.2% Price: $53 although the finish fades rather quickly. A blend of 66% Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Le Coursier Cabernet Sauvignon, with Syrah and Cabernet Franc 90 (Columbia Valley). This five-grape Bordeaux- Sheridan Vineyard 2010 Mystique (Ya­ filling in the rest. —P.G. style blend is 52% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 89 kima Valley). This Merlot-dominant red abv: NA Price: $45 10% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. blend displays classic Yakima Valley flavors that are A strong flower notes marks the nose, with just a sugges- well-integrated and balanced for medium-term (6–8 Airfield Estates 2010 Mustang (Yakima tion of body powder. The core of cherry and berry fruit years) aging. The fruit is on the tart side, with accents of 87 Valley). Although this is comprised of more is ripe and round, dusty and dense. The balance of fruit earth and herb. The tannins are textural and somewhat than 50% Syrah, this five grape Rhône-style blend and acid is just right, and the tannins are accented with drying. —P.G. seems more influenced by the Grenache. Plenty of a dusting of cocoa. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 mixed berry flavors surface quickly, proving to be bright abv: 14.2% Price: $35 and spicy, before running into some drying tannins that Southard 2010 Lawrence Vineyard (Co­ are marked with a green edge. —P.G. Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Tuttorosso (Ya­ 89 lumbia Valley). This is a blend of 90% Gre- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 90 kima Valley). Made in a super Tuscan style, nache and 10% Syrah, sourced from a single vineyard. this blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syr- The fruit is very tart, rather light, with a pretty cher- Board Track Racer 2010 The Vincent ah is lush and lovely. Lightly floral aromatics introduce ry highlight. The tannins are firm, hinting at a stem 87 (Washington). Forward and fruity, this is notes of berry, plum and a whiff of leather. It xcellent flavor. —P.G. a tight, tart wine with a jumble of berry and bramble balance and structure, with soft, yielding tannins. It was abv: 14.5% Price: $22 flavors. It’s peppery, spicy, but don’t look for too much finished in 20% new oak. —P.G. complexity. Gulp it down for the enjoyable quaffer that abv: 13.8% Price: $35 Thurston Wolfe 2010 The Spaniard it’s meant to be. —P.G. 89 (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of mostly Gr- abv: 14.4% Price: $20 Cadaretta 2008 Springboard (Columbia enache, with smaller amounts of Tempranillo and Syr- 90 Valley). Though given extra bottle age prior to ah, this is smooth and polished, with dried fruit flavors. Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2009 Rock Island release, this remains a bit stiff and tannic. Floral high- It bears a leaf note and a whiff of mint, with a muscular, 87 Red (Columbia Valley). This shows a hint of lights and smoky tannins book-end the black fruits. tannic finish that adds complexity. —P.G. green in its scents and tannins. Firm berry and cassis Deep cassis and a bit of licorice wind through the finish. abv: 14.4% Price: $20 fruit anchors the palate, with tannins that remain a bit This is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit unyielding. Give this one a decanting, and it will soften Verdot, 8% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Cellar Se- Barrister NV Barrister Block (Columbia up. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvi- lection. —P.G. 88 Valley). A concentrated burst of raspberry li- gnon, —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 queur comes with a side order of prune and plenty of abv: 13.8% Price: $20

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Domaine Pouillon 2009 Katydid G-S-M Gorman 2010 Behind the Black Curtain and length. Some notes of leaf and earth trickle onto 86 (Horse Heaven Hills). This red pushes a 94 Reserve Syrah (Red Mountain). This pure the finish. —P.G. pretty cherry fruit flavor forward, letting the fruit rather Syrah—the first reserve Syrah from Gorman—pulls out abv: 15.1% Price: $45 than new barrels, do the talking. It’s a tasty, with good all the stops. It’s a tannic, bold, earthy and powerful balance and medium length. —P.G. wine that’s loaded with black fruits. Aged for 20 months Delmas 2010 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $24 in 100% new French oak, it takes the wood in stride, 91 A first release from this new Walla Walla win- adding Red Mountain minerality to the mix. —P.G. ery, this is complex and textural, made using estate- Gilbert Cellars 2008 the pilgrim (Wahluke abv: 15.5% Price: $80 grown grapes from a vineyard in the section of the valley 85 Slope). This blend of Syrah and Malbec was known as The Rocks. Notes of black cherry and umami- sourced from the estate’s Doc Stewart Vineyard. Light, Gramercy Cellars 2009 John Lewis Syr­ soaked funk swirl together, with a strong streak of black tart rhubarb and watermelon flavors show an accent of 94 ah (Walla Walla Valley). Aged in French oak tea and syrupy coffee. —P.G. mocha. Drink up. —P.G. puncheons, this youthful, citrusy, big and smoky wine abv: 14.6% Price: $50 abv: 14.7% Price: $15 seems to flicker in and out—like an old movie—with each sip revealing a different view of the landscape. Mark Ryan 2009 Wild Eyed Syrah (Red Seven of Hearts 2010 Chatte d’Avignon Herb, cacao, cassis and balsamic flavors intertwine. The 91 Mountain). Still tight and chewy, this lushly- 85 G-S-M (Columbia Valley). Quite light and a lengthy finish is balanced and structured.Cellar Selec- fruited Syrah mixes berry and cherry flavors with earth- bit diffuse, this southern Rhone-style red has a pretty tion. —P.G. ier, mineral-driven bass notes. It will require a bit more bottle age to unwind and decompress, but it has all of rose petal accent, along with berry and balsamic flavors. abv: 13.9% Price: $75 the ingredients of a wine with staying power. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $48 abv: 14.3% Price: $25 Abeja 2010 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Complex and compelling, this estate-grown Syr- 93 Sleight of Hand 2010 Levitation Syrah Domaine Pouillon NV Black Dot (Horse ah sends up smoky notes of cured meat, nougat and car- (Columbia Valley). Though quite differ- Heaven Hills). This is a nonvintage blend of amel. Black cherry fruit anchors the barrel notes, and 91 84 ent stylistically from the 2009, this is just as good. The Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. Well on its it just gets more and more delicious as it winds its way structure in 2010 is noteworthy for its high acid focus. way to maturity, it’s an easy-drinking quaffer, with a hint across the palate. This demonstrates classy winemaking There are streaks of berry and cassis, with touches of and perfect balance. Cellar Selection. —P.G. of bitterness on the finish. —P.G. smoke and espresso. This is a wine to cellar while you abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $38 are drinking up the delicious 2009. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40 Page Cellars 2008 The Norseman (Red Crossfork Creek 2010 Dark Matter Syr­ ah (Yakima Valley). Crossfork Creek is a new 84 Mountain). A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvi- 93 Sleight of Hand 2010 The Funkadelic label for Sheridan Vineyard, designed, says winemaker gnon and 50% Merlot, The Norseman—named for a Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from Scott Greer, as his laboratory for vinous experimenta- 91 vintage airplane—mostly masks its fruit in a wash of a small vineyard in the The Rocks of Walla Walla, this tion. This meaty, smoky, dense and chewy Syrah is one earth, herb, stem and tannin. —P.G. shows classic, terroir-driven umami flavors. It’s as if the of the first releases. The black cherry and cassis flavors abv: 14.1% Price: $25 fruit were soaked in seaweed, then lifted on a platform are accented with a touch of cola, and the wine resolves of rock. It has lovely aromatics, with a rather delicate with a firm, substantial and somewhat tannic finish. Ed- Six Prong 2010 Red (Columbia Valley). finish that’s nuanced with cherry and tar. —P.G. 84 Tannic and tight, this shows some reductive itors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 scents of tar and rubber. Smoky cassis and strong herbal abv: 14.1% Price: $40 notes lead into a quick finish with some bitterness. Two Sleight of Hand 2009 Levitation Syr­ bottles tasted. —P.G. Lauren Ashton 2009 Syrah (Red Moun­ 91 ah (Columbia Valley). This mixes blueber- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 93 tain). For full review see page 6. Editors’ ry, boysenberry and blackberry notes with a dressing Choice. of Bourbon and chocolate. Smooth and satiny, this is Page Cellars 2008 Libra (Columbia Val­ abv: 14.9% Price: $43 drinking exceptionally well at the moment. —P.G. 83 ley). Light strawberry fruit is quickly overtak- abv: NA Price: $40 en with bitter, stemmy flavors and thick, heavy tannins. Southard 2009 Lawrence Vineyard Syr­ ah (Columbia Valley). —P.G. 93 Dark and bloody, this Avennia 2010 Parapine Syrah (Yakima abv: 14.3% Price: $25 masterfully mixes layer upon layer of detail. Red meat, 90 Valley). This blends fruit from Red Mountain’s black olive, cassis and earth roll across the tongue, while Force Majeure Vineyard and Boushey Vineyard. Fer- hints of flower and chocolate linger in the nose. Com- mented using native yeast, it shows black cherry, cola SYRAH plex, tart and earthy, this is as good as it gets in this price and earth, with a drying finish that’s redolent of wet ce- range. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ment. This is complex and even delicate. —P.G. Corliss Estates 2007 Syrah (Columbia abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 15% Price: $35 96 Valley). This winery gives its wines extra years in bottle prior to release, and it pays off with powerful, Mark Ryan 2009 Les Vignes de Marcoux Soos Creek 2009 Commander Comet muscular, densely structured that have been polished 92 Lost Soul Syrah (Yakima Valley). No one 90 Syrah (Washington). Made using Syrah from to a fine luster. This Syrah emphasizes fruit, not funk, does a better job with the Syrah from this vineyard than the Boushey, Riverbend, and Lewis Vineyards, this is with opulent flavors of black fruit, dried cherry, fig and Mark Ryan McNeilly. Here, the peppery, just-ripe fruit a spicy, lively wine, with bright boysenberry fruit and plum. The 30 months it spent in two-thirds new French is washed in a caramel bath. The flavors are long, and citrusy acids. Give it some time to breathe, and it be- oak adds dark streaks of coffee and cocoa. It shows tre- despite all of the barrel influence, the grapes have the comes downright exuberant, with a lightly peppery fin- mendous depth, and it could be cellared for another few muscle and texture to stand out equally. —P.G. ish. —P.G. years—but why wait? Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $48 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 15.4% Price: $55 Avennia 2010 Arnaut Syrah (Yakima àMaurice 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Gramercy Cellars 2009 Lagniappe Syrah 91 Valley). Using grapes sourced entirely from 89 Peppery and trending toward stemmy flavors, 96 (Columbia Valley). For full review see page Boushey Vineyard, this well-structured Syrah has a clar- this has a phenolic bite. The brambly berry fruit runs 3. Cellar Selection. et-like refinement. Sleek and focused, it offers raspber- quickly into a slightly warm finish. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $45 ry and black cherry flavors, with a tight, taut structure abv: 14.8% Price: $34

WineMag.com | 35 Gorman 2009 The Pixie Syrah (Red OTHER RED WINES Thurston Wolfe 2009 Touriga Nacional 89 Mountain). This ultraripe and fruity effort 92 Port (Yakima Valley). Gorgeous and authen- tastes of raspberry compote. There are drying tannins Mark Ryan 2009 Crazy Mary Mourvèdre tic, this full-flavored, Port-style wine renders deep, fla- and a hint of bark or leaf, with just a bit of warmth on 93 (Red Mountain). You’d have to be crazy not vors of black cherry and cassis liqueur. Dark veins of the finish. The fruit comes from two of Red Mountain’s to love this Mourvèdre for its distinctive, intriguing take chocolate syrup and coffee liqueur pump through the finest sites—Kiona and Ciel du Cheval – —P.G. on this Southern Rhône grape. Mineral, flint, plum and mix, making it smooth as butter. It’s a wine that could abv: 14.8% Price: $45 spice notes surface in abundance—all in perfect bal- age—but why wait? Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ance. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 19% Price: $16/375 ml Roza Ridge 2009 Syrah (Rattlesnake abv: 14.9% Price: $48 89 Hills). For full review see page 15. Best Buy. Thurston Wolfe 2010 Sweet Rebecca Or­ abv: 13.9% Price: $14 Brian Carter Cellars 2010 1 Grenache 88 ange Muscat (Yakima Valley). Fortified 91 (Columbia Valley). Using Grenache sourced with a splash of brandy, this sweet Orange Muscat bears DiStefano 2008 R Syrah (Columbia Val­ from the moderately cool Lonesome Springs Vineyard, dense flavors of candied oranges and lemon slices. It’s a 87 ley). Quite dry on the palate, this seems less this is slightly leafy, with notes of forest floor, blueber- rather thick, almost viscous dessert wine, with mouth- ripe than the previous vintage. The opening flavors are ry and blackberry. This is the first pure Grenache ever coating richness. Best Buy. —P.G. dominated by earth and stem—rather than fruit—fol- made by Brian Carter. It doesn’t just taste like a big abv: 16% Price: $13/375 ml lowed by notes of baking spice, coconut and caramel. bowl of berries; it has power and depth to spare. —P.G. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $50 abv: 15.7% Price: $28 OTHER NORTH AMERICA Thurston Wolfe 2009 Zephyr Ridge Vine­ Hyatt 2009 Syrah (Rattlesnake Hills). A 91 yard Petite Sirah (Horse Heaven Hills). MICHIGAN 87 strong streak of pure vanilla highlights the fla- This is a brambly, blueberry-laden Petite Sirah, with Villa Mari 2007 Row 7 Red (Old Mission vors here. The fruit tastes of fresh-picked strawberries. black cherry, plum and chocolate highlights. Firm, Peninsula). This is 100% Syrah made from estate-grown fruit. Best ripe tannins bring a streak of lemon verbena. It’s gen- 84 This is a medium-bodied wine Buy. —P.G. tly earthy, absolutely flavorful and drinking beautifully. with notes of dried rose, spiced pastry dough and sour abv: 13.7% Price: $12 Editors’ Choice. —P.G. cherry. It finishes short and dry, with faint flavors over- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 laying the firm, tannic framework. —A.H. Airfield Estates 2010 Syrah (Yakima Val­ abv: 13.4% Price: $50 84 ley). A note of barely ripe wild berry is quickly Roza Ridge 2009 Petit Verdot (Rattle­ 2 Lads 2009 Cabernet Franc-Merlot (Old overtaken by a strong, green-herb core. It turns bitter snake Hills). A deep raspberry flavor is set in 90 Mission Peninsula). and slightly medicinal on the finish. —P.G. a vivid frame of spicy herb and toasty barrel accents. 83 A blend of 70% Caber- abv: 14.8% Price: $18 The finish is crisply defined, with slightly peppery tan- net Franc and 30% Merlot, this feels a little light on nins. —P.G. flesh, providing little cushion to the high acids. A camp- Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2009 Syrah (Co­ abv: 14.4% Price: $20 fire smokiness underscores the rusty dark-fruit note, 84 lumbia Valley). Thin and tight, this high-ac- which ultimately finishes a bit short. —A.H. id Syrah is stubbornly closed. It’s difficult to predict DiStefano 2008 Sogno Cabernet Franc abv: 13% Price: $NA when—or if—it will open up. Right now, it doesn’t show (Columbia Valley). After a soft entry, some 88 Brys 2010 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Old much beyond acid and stem. —P.G. drying tannins and maturing flavors of hazelnut and Mission Peninsula). abv: 13.5% Price: $30 toasted wheat kick in. This is styled for near-term con- 83 A hit of sulfur slowly sumption, and it will pair best with some grilled meat. blows off to reveal aromas of hot stone and maple syrup, Page Cellars 2007 Syrah (Red Moun­ —P.G. with undertones of dark stone fruit and dill. The medi- 83 tain). Using grapes sourced from the Klipsun abv: 15.2% Price: $28 um-bodied palate offers soft acids that lend a slightly Vineyard, this disappointing effort is stemmy and tan- flat feel, with mild tannins adding some support. —A.H. nic, with a bitter finish. —P.G. Three Rivers 2009 Weinbau Vineyard abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.4% Price: $37 88 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This has very tight and concentrated fruit—a mix of rasp- berry, blueberry and cherry. But the wine, despite its MISSOURI TEMPRANILLO depth, does not have much complexity or layering of fla- Montelle 2009 Norton (Augusta). This Ott & Murphy 2009 Tempranillo (Colum­ vors. It tastes similar to a ripe, fruity Zinfandel. Drink 86 smells like red roses were muddled with Dr. 86 bia Valley). Pleasant and simple, this offers up. —P.G. Pepper and a slice of dark cherry pie. From the start, light strawberry and cherry flavors, with a pretty streak abv: 14.9% Price: $39 the palate feels soft and pliable, with mild tannins add- of mocha. The finish shows some earth and stem notes. ing a subtle, dusty texture. A hint of cherry chapstick —P.G. Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2009 Barbera marks the finish. —A.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $23 85 (Columbia Valley). There is nothing wrong abv: 13% Price: $22 with this wine, but it shows no particular varietal charac- Tildio 2009 Reserve Estate Tempranil­ ter. It’s a soft, mocha-inflected, all-purpose red. —P.G. Mount Pleasant Winery 2010 Estates Vi­ 85 lo (Lake Chelan). Slender and acid driven, abv: 13% Price: $25 86 gnoles (Augusta). While this is full bodied, this Tempranillo, with its light berry and herb flavors, with an unctuous quality, it has plenty of acidity to keep resolves with a lemony, chalky finish. —P.G. the palate feeling lively and defined. The notes of but- abv: NA Price: $35 DESSERT WINES terscotch, candied apple and citrus blossom are pleas- Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Opulento Des­ ing, leading to a brisk and slightly warm finish. —A.H. Tildio 2008 Estate Tempranillo (Lake 94 sert Wine Touriga-Souzao-Tinto Cão (Ya­ abv: 14.5% Price: $21 82 Chelan). An extremely smoky nose—to the kima Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ point of drowning out all of the other scents—leads into Choice. Augusta Winery 2009 Chambourcin (Au­ a tannic, chalky palate that bears little varietal charac- abv: 19% Price: $20/375 ml 85 gusta). Blueberry compote, blackberry and ter. —P.G. dill-butter aromas are strung together with threads of abv: 14.2% Price: $27 raisin and medicinal mint. Integrated, medium-grained

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 tannins and proportioned acids create an agile mouth- charge the palate. It finishes rather short on flavor; the La Chiripada 2009 Artist Series I Dolcet­ feel, although the flavors seem to drop out a bit on the tannic grip is the lasting element. —A.H. 86 to (New Mexico). Medium to full bodied, this midpalate. Best Buy. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $12 has juicy acidity that creates a succulent tartness, with abv: 13% Price: $10 notes of dark fruit, char and a slightly raisinated tone. Mount Pleasant Winery 2007 Bethlehem The textural, upper-lip-grabbing tannins are reminis- Augusta Winery 2009 Norton (Augusta). 83 Valley Norton (Missouri). Notes of spiced cent of fine powdered sand, remaining strong onto the 85 Tight-lipped aromas of golden fig and dried toast, Raisinets, hickory and prune mingle on the smoky, finish. —A.H. strawberry are underpinned by a touch of chocolate. slightly baked nose. The flavors are concentrated and abv: NA Price: $32 Supple and chocolaty tasting on the palate, this has bal- intense, but the baked quality is a little too distracting. anced tannins and acids that lend just-enough structural —A.H. D.H. Lescombes 2009 Pinot Noir (New support. —A.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 85 Mexico). Notes of sweet pipe tobacco, dark abv: 13% Price: $18 fruit liqueur, mint-chocolate and raisin mingle on the Montelle 2010 Chambourcin (Missouri). medium-intense, ripe-smelling nose. Medium in body, Les Bourgeois 2011 La Belle Semi Dry 82 This has a mild, soft nose, with scents of broad this has a texture defined by its salient acids rather than black fruit, boiled asparagus and peppered meat. The (Missouri). Fruity and floral smelling, this has its tannins, creating a bright feel. The light tannins add 85 palate is full bodied, with ripe tannins. A note of sour key aromas of Fruit Loops, orange blossom and apri- a dusty quality to the finish, concluding with hints of black-raspberry candy marks the finish. —A.H. cot, with graham cracker and peanut shell subtleties. It raspberry coulis and cherry. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $15 tastes off-dry, with an unctuous feel, finishing with some abv: 13% Price: $18 cling and a zingy citrus-zest flavor. Best Buy. —A.H. Mount Pleasant Winery NV Villagio Off Vivác Winery 2009 Petite Sirah (New abv: 12.5% Price: $8 82 Dry (Missouri). The timid nose squeaks out 85 Mexico). The aromas of cola, java chip, licorice notes of Chinese five spice and warm green apple, with and cherry are pleasant and plentiful, ultimately evolv- Mount Pleasant Winery 2010 Estates St. a slight hint of sulfur. Light to medium bodied, the pal- Vincent (Augusta). This is a red-smelling ing into grapey dark-fruit and cedary spice flavors. With 85 ate bears a slight sweetness, tame acids and a quick fin- its medium-grained tannins, modestly concentrated wine, with a note of strawberry-rhubarb preserves as ish. —A.H. flavors and supporting acids, this should pair well with the primary aroma. Light to medium bodied, it has a abv: 13.8% Price: $9 burgers or other casual foods. —A.H. glossy feel due to the lithe tannins and well-managed abv: 13.5% Price: $19 acids. Easygoing and enjoyable, it finishes with a ripe strawberry-shortcake note and a slight tea-like bitter- NEW JERSEY Vivác Winery 2009 Sangiovese (New ness. —A.H. Unionville Vineyards 2010 Pheasant Hill 84 Mexico). Touches of dill, cherry, rose and cas- abv: 12.4% Price: $24 87 Single Vineyard Estate Bottled Pinot Noir sis compose this wine’s soft-spoken nose. On entrance, (New Jersey). Flavors of raspberry jam, pain grille, it pops with a dark fruit flavor, but loses some steam Mount Pleasant Winery 2008 Bethlehem spice box and dark cherry are forward and succulent, on the midpalate. Minimal tannic traction lends a slick Valley Norton (Missouri). Alluring aromas 85 thanks to the juicy acidity and flexible tannins. An herb- texture, while the uplifting acids make the palate glow. of tobacco, forest floor, smoking incense and chocolate al rose note surfaces on the midpalate, leading to a —A.H. are well defined. Supportive tannins frame its soft core, warm, persistent finish. Enjoy this with grilled salmon abv: 13.5% Price: $21 while conspicuous acids ramp up the earthy flavors. It with a soy-ginger glaze. —A.H. finishes long, with a lingering note of dark stone fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 Vivác Winery 2009 Montepulciano (New —A.H. 83 Mexico). The spiced dark-cherry and black- abv: 12.8% Price: $25 Unionville Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled berry aromas come with a rusty edge, leading to a palate 84 Dry Riesling (New Jersey). This has a soft that’s marked by vivid acids and trifling tannic support. Mount Pleasant Winery 2008 Estates core that’s framed by citrusy acids, with an oxidative ap- In general, this is lithe and easy, a wine that would pair 84 Norton (Missouri). Soft on entrance, this ple flavor that starts out with full steam, but loses some well with pizza. —A.H. gains acidic steam across the palate, which drives the momentum on the midpalate. Try pairing this with crab abv: 13% Price: $19 dialed-down flavors of berry and prune. With its mod- cakes with a mild celeriac remoulade. —A.H. est alcohol content, this would make for a good match abv: 12.3% Price: $16 Vivác Winery 2009 Tempranillo (New with a peppered roast-beef sandwich or other casual 83 Mexico). This smells like a melted Luden’s fare. —A.H. cough drop sprinkled with coffee grounds and spices. abv: 13% Price: $35 NEW MEXICO Medium bodied, it has a jumbled herbal flavor, finish- La Chiripada 2010 Artist Series I Viogni­ ing with warmth and notes of dark chocolate and cof- Les Bourgeois 2011 Solay (Missouri). er (New Mexico). A highly aromatic and ex- fee. —A.H. 88 abv: 13% Price: $20 83 Wooly aromas of white orchard fruit and toasty pressive wine, this explodes with scents of baked pine- peanut shell define the nose. On the palate, zesty ac- apple, ruby grapefruit, tangerine and apricot preserves. Vivác Winery 2008 V. Single Vineyard Syr­ ids propel the modest white-peach flavor, leading to a Fleshy, concentrated and focused, the palate has plenty ah (New Mexico). This starts off feeling soft slightly short but clean finish. —A.H. of animated acidity. The flavor intensity is solid on the 83 and open, but the acids gain momentum on the midpal- abv: 12.5% Price: $8 medium-to-long finish, ending with a touch of warmth. ate, lending plenty of zip. A mild, oak-influenced plum —A.H. flavor marks the quick-to-fade finish. —A.H. Les Bourgeois NV Fleur du Vin Fruity abv: 13% Price: $20 83 Semi Dry (Missouri). Muffled, shy aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $23 are redolent of cherries, dried flowers and pear drops. La Chiripada 2010 Winemakers’ Select Soft and rounded, the palate has a sweet quality about 86 White (New Mexico). The striking aromas of OHIO its core, with mild acids and a dusting of tannins. —A.H. cantaloupe, nectarine, flower-blossom honey and cur- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 rant bud are slightly tainted with a sulfurous note of ex- Debonné 2009 Reserve Lot 907 Ries­ pired matchstick. Sprightly acids lend the rich palate a 86 ling (Grand River Valley). While the aromas Mount Pleasant Winery NV Dry Norton vivacious quality. The medium-long finish fades with a of white strawberry, passion fruit preserves and citrus 83 (Missouri). Flavors of berry preserves and flavor of Orange Tang. —A.H. are soft spoken, they increase in intensity on the pal- toast are loosely concentrated, with peppy acids that abv: 12% Price: $16 ate. Relatively low in alcohol, with sweetness and bright

WineMag.com | 37 acidity, this should pair well with exotic, slightly spicy Boxwood 2010 Red (Virginia). Comprised white flower. The bright, perky acidity energizes the fare, like curried chicken with mango chutney. —A.H. 86 of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Ver- medium- to full-bodied palate, with a honeyed toasted- abv: 11% Price: $15 dot, this bears aromas of clover honey, char, dark choc- nut note marking the finish. —A.H. olate and a late-to-develop savory meat tone. On the abv: 12.8% Price: $21 Debonné 2009 Cabernet Franc (Grand palate, there’s enough flesh to buffer its high amount 83 River Valley). Chewy tannins and tart acids of fine-grained, muscular tannins. A rose petal note un- Three Fox 2010 La Boheme Viognier (Vir­ buttress the midpalate’s broad berry flavor. The fruit furls across the midpalate, leading to a finish marked 83 ginia). Smelling grapey on the nose, this has seems to thin out on the finish, concluding with more with enduring grip. —A.H. additional notes of white currant, toast and white stone bone and muscle than succulent flesh. Pairing this with abv: 13.5% Price: $25 fruit. It starts soft, with flavors that are rather low in a rare burger would help tame the structural compo- concentration. The medium-bodied mouthfeel turns nents. —A.H. Boxwood 2010 Topiary (Virginia). A blend zesty as the wine advances across the palate, finishing abv: 12% Price: $15 86 of 61% Cabernet Franc and 39% Merlot, this with touches of honeyed toast and apple. —A.H. has scents of black fruit and green bell pepper that are abv: 12% Price: $25 characteristic of many Bordeaux-style blends, with un- TEXAS derpinnings of savory spice and char. The full-bodied Boxwood 2010 Trellis (Virginia). Aromas of Messina Hof 2009 Private Reserve Dou­ palate has a soft, chocolaty core, boasting medium- 83 rubber, toasted herb and desiccated dark fruit ble Barrel Cedar Crest Vineyard Caber­ grained tannins and easy acids that lend enough lift. are quite mute and reticent. On the palate, the struc- 86 tural elements are prominent, with juicy acids and as- net Franc (Texas). A veneer of new wood overlays —A.H. tringent tannins framing the dark berry flavor. —A.H. the aromas of smoke, spiced blueberry, blackberry and abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 olive. Well-proportioned acids and tannins give shape Lovingston 2009 Rotunda Red (Monticel­ to this medium- to full-bodied effort, which concludes lo). Scents of charred sugar, blackberry liqueur, Barrel Oak 2009 Reserve Viognier (Vir­ with a seemingly long, clingy finish. —A.H. 86 ginia). While the nose seems promising with abv: 13.7% Price: $22 hot stone and spiced mocha detail the nose, with a leath- 82 er accent that develops late. Soft, malleable tannins de- its exotic-tinged aromas of banana, peach and papaya, Messina Hof 2010 Private Reserve Dou­ fine the accessible palate, however, the tannins acquire the palate falls short. It tastes a bit disjointed, with an ble Barrel Cerro Santo Vineyard Primitivo more structure and texture on the finish. —A.H. oily mouthfeel, exaggerated acidity and a feeble banana 85 flavor. —A.H. (Texas). Deep and dark smelling, this has aromas of abv: 13.7% Price: $15 abv: 13.1% Price: $27 Mission fig, black fruit compote and spiced pastry. It’s Veramar 2010 Viognier (Virginia). Aromas a heavyweight effort with a dense texture, but the acid- of toasted macadamia, Fuji apple and apricot ity saves it from feeling ponderous. An overripe flavor 86 preserves are bold and well delineated. This tastes off- OTHER AMERICAN of sun-dried fruit dominates the flavor profile, conclud- dry, but its acids are lively enough to keep the midpal- ing with a touch of Bourbon barrel on the medium-long WHITES ate from feeling sticky. Warm and sappy on the finish, it finish. —A.H. Truro 2009 Demi-Sec Vignoles (America). abv: 13.7% Price: $22 bears vivid, lingering notes of toasted nut and bruised apple. Try pairing this with roast chicken and a not-too- 87 This has striking aromas of passion fruit, apri- cot and pear drop, with a note of warm, spiced green Messina Hof 2009 Private Reserve Dou­ sweet apricot chutney. —A.H. apple adding dimension. While sweet in nature, this ble Barrel Bell Brothers-Merrill’s Vine­ abv: 12.4% Price: $24 82 has electrifying acidity that keeps the palate clean, en- yard Zinfandel (Texas). Restrained on the nose, this Annefield Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sau­ ergetic and far from clingy. The acidity remains racy on is slow to reveal notes of spice cake, clove liqueur and vignon (Virginia). A dominant feral aroma of the finish, highlighting the pretty honeysuckle charac- waxy raisin. The tannins lend the palate grip, but it fin- 85 sweaty saddle leather overlays the core of dark stone ter. —A.H. ishes short on flavor, with the structural elements most fruit. Medium to full bodied, this has appetizing acids abv: 11.5% Price: $14 prominent. —A.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $22 that juice up the salient black-tea and black cherry fla- vors. Astringent and dry on the finish, this should pair Mount Pleasant Winery 2010 Estates Vil­ well with juicy steaks and sautéed mushrooms. —A.H. 86 lagio (America). On entrance, this has forth- abv: 12.5% Price: $26 right flavors of grapefruit, basil and apricot that are VIRGINIA highlighted by the well-managed acids. A blend of hy- Lovingston 2010 Gilbert’s Vineyard Pino­ Barrel Oak 2009 Tour’ga Franc Reserve brid grapes—Rayon d’Or, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles— 88 tage (Monticello). For full review see page 85 (Virginia). A blend of 60% Touriga Nacio- this should pair well with grilled swordfish or seared sea 11. nal and 40% Cabernet Franc, this smells of peppered scallops. —A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 blackberries, compost, smoke and char. The palate is abv: 13.4% Price: $20 structured with sustaining acids and a medium load of Shenandoah VA 2011 Johannisberg chunky tannins. A dark berry flavor and a hint of dried 87 Riesling (Shenandoah Valley). Scents of flower add interest. —A.H. OTHER AMERICAN lemongrass, white flower, bees wax and pear are perky abv: 13.3% Price: $33 REDS and well etched. Between the wine’s keen acids and lemony flavor, this remains a bright, uplifting effort, Veramar 2008 Estate Bottled Norton Mount Pleasant Winery NV Estates Mer­ with a clean, tangy finish. —A.H. 85 (Shenandoah Valley). Funky and intrigu- 84 lot (America). Course, grainy tannins are the abv: 11% Price: $15 ing on the nose, this proffers scents of narcissus and defining textural attribute, lending a rustic quality to farmyard, with touches of char and dark fruit. Medium the full-bodied palate. Notes of mocha, cranberry sauce Annefield Vineyards 2010 Viognier (Vir­ bodied, this has an open texture, with integrated acids and black fruit compote are pleasant and easy, extend- 86 ginia). Notes of beeswax, orange oil and mel- and malleable tannins. Flavors of tart blackberry candy, ing onto the finish that’s marked by vice-grip tannins. on are accented with citrus pith and white flower sub- leather and Dr. Pepper surface on the palate. —A.H. This would be a fine accompaniment to burgers and tleties. Medium to full bodied, this starts off lax, but a abv: 12.4% Price: $39 ribs. —A.H. charge of acidity gives the midpalate a boost. Sip this abv: 14.5% Price: $35 alongside citrus-marinated grilled shrimp. —A.H. Bogati 2011 Viognier (Virginia). An easy ef- abv: 13.8% Price: $22 84 fort, this has aromas of pear, white peach and Adirondack Winery NV Barbera (Ameri­ 83 ca). Scents of old coffee, cherry and caramel

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 follow through on the palate, with a soapy hint that adds ARGENTINA Zolo 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon a slightly bitter element This is a medium-bodied, no- 88 (Mendoza). This is a jammy, dense and pure frills wine that should pair just fine with a grilled pork Cabernet, with meat and berry aromas that mix in chop. —A.H. CHARDONNAY touches of graphite and chocolate. It feels a little hard abv: 13% Price: $18 Zuccardi 2011 Q Chardonnay (Mendo­ and acidic despite its size, while the flavor profile is of za). This is mild and lightly oaked on the front mossy berry fruit and chocolate. Tight and nervy, this Mount Pleasant Winery NV Estates Cab­ 87 end, with peach and apple notes. It feels narrow and fo- offers lots of acidic push on the finish. Vino Del Sol. ernet Sauvignon (America). This has a pre- 83 cused, with honeyed apple, pear and melon flavors that —M.S. vailing fortified-wine scent to its nose, with details of 14% $19 aren’t too sweet or candied. Light and simple feeling on abv: Price: plum liqueur and mint-chocolate. It’s muscular and the finish, with elegance. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. overtly firm on the palate; the fortified wine quality cre- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 ates a slightly discordant sensation. —A.H. MALBEC abv: 14.8% Price: $35 Bodega Catena Zapata 2011 High Moun­ Bodega Catena Zapata 2009 Catena Alta tain Vines Chardonnay (Mendoza). The Malbec (Mendoza). This is gorgeous on the Truro 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc 86 92 waxy, dusty aromas of apple are calm and regular. It bouquet, with earth, flower blossom, licorice and san- (Southeastern New England). The acid- 83 feels a bit flat, with oaky flavors of apple, melon, vanil- dalwood aromas. It feels lush and layered, with ripe, ity is the prominent attribute of this wine, jutting out la and resin. The finish feels resiny too, but overall it’s happy flavors of sultry black fruit and cassis. Fruity, long with little flesh to buffer its cut. Light, dusty tannins add good in a regular, popular style. Winebow. —M.S. and delicious on the finish, this is a very easy Malbec to some traction to the palate, with a leafy herb note sur- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 dig into now and until 2015. Winebow. —M.S. facing on the short finish. —A.H. abv: 14% Price: $55 abv: 12% Price: $36 Siesta Wines 2011 Tahuan Chardonnay (Mendoza). The hazy aromas of honeyed Trivento 2009 Golden Reserve Malbec Les Bourgeois NV Jeunette Rouge 86 white fruits are a touch gaseous. It feels plump and (Luján de Cuyo). The nose is deep and dense, (America). An acid-driven wine, this has a pal- 91 81 nice, with soft, almost flat melon flavors. It tastes similar delivering pure blackberry and blueberry aromas along pable tartness, with feeble notes of raw wood, blueberry on the finish, showing little evolution from the palate. with toast and herb notes. It feels balanced and pure as and smoke. Pairing this with a grilled pizza with a layer Vineyard Brands. —M.S. a cloudless night, with controlled blackberry, spice and of tomato sauce could help tame the wild acids. —A.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $16 chocolate flavors. Strong on the finish, with bitter notes abv: 12% Price: $9 of chocolate and espresso, and narrow tannins. Banfi Viña Cobos 2011 Felino Chardonnay Vintners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. CANADA 86 (Mendoza). Toasty, oaky and a bit lemony on abv: 14.5% Price: $21 the nose, this has baked apple notes that are friendly. Equifera 2009 Icewine Riesling (Niagara It feels round and honeyed, with toasty, candied flavors Finca 8 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendo­ 91 Peninsula). While Equifera, produced by In- that veer toward pear, apple and honey. Resin and cin- 90 za). Dense black-fruit aromas have a coconut niskillin co-founder, Donald Ziraldo, may still be an un- namon flavors work the soft, sweet-tasting finish. Paul edge, and the entire nose turns mossy and leathery with familiar name, one sip of this Riesling ice wine is proof Hobbs Wines. —M.S. airing. It feels dense, chewy and a little soft, with an of its impeccable pedigree. Intensely aromatic with abv: 14.5% Price: $18 earthy, reedy flavor of black fruit that’s touched up with loads of fresh apple, honey and white blossom aromas, coffee. Plump, spicy and ever so slightly herbal on the it balances luscious sweetness with bracing acidity and Tilia 2011 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Dusty finish. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. a long, undulating floral finish. The Wine Group. —A.I. 85 and warm up front, this has baked apple and abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 9% Price: $70/375 ml peachy aromas. It feels round with only mild acidity, while the flavors yield barrel resin, citrus and sweet Bodega Carmine Granata 2009 Tradicio­ Inniskillin 2008 Ice Wine Riesling (Ni­ melon. It’s not too evolved on the finish. Winebow. Best 89 nal Oak Cask Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). 91 agara Peninsula). Gorgeously aromatic with Buy. —M.S. This starts out with textbook aromas of red and black notes of freshly pressed apple, wildflower honey and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 fruits that are pure and easy to get into. It shows kick tangerine peel, this is a richly textured, almost creamy, on the palate, with oaky flavors of coffee and chocolate ice wine. Intense flavors of honey and fresh apple ripple that accent ripe berry and mild herb notes. It’s toasty on the palate, with striking lemon acidity that lends a CABERNET SAUVIGNON and spicy on the finish, with a gritty feel. Tarasi Winer- squeaky clean finish. Constellation Brands, Inc. —A.I. Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Cabernet Sau­ ies. —M.S. abv: 9.5% Price: $80/375 ml 91 vignon (Luján de Cuyo). This is tight and abv: 14.5% Price: $18 sturdy as a rock up front, with licorice, hard spice, leath- Cave Spring 2009 Indian Summer Ries­ er and black cherry aromas. It feels round, chewy, tough Bodega Tacuil 2010 33 de Dávalos Mal­ ling (Niagara Peninsula). Just a touch of 90 and healthy, with flavors of baked black fruit, chocolate, 89 bec (Salta). Potent and herbal, this has aro- dried herb adds a surprising element to the intense molasses and hickory. Roasted and oaky, but cool and mas of tomato, olive, mineral and tobacco. It feels tight, honey, white flower and sweet tangerine flavors on this collected. Drink now through 2016. Paul Hobbs Wines. drying and lively, with herb-infused flavors of plum and beautiful late-harvest Riesling. Striking lemon-lime —M.S. berry along with spicy oak. Rich in feel, but it’s distinctly acidity and a shower of crushed stones on the finish add abv: 15% Price: $40 foresty and herbal tasting on the finish. This is 100% elegance and balance. MGZ Associates. —A.I. Malbec with an undeniable Salta imprint. Vine Connec- abv: 12% Price: $30/375 ml Bodega Norton 2010 Reserva Cabernet tions. —M.S. Sauvignon (Mendoza). Norton Reserva is abv: 15% Price: $70 Inniskillin 2007 Icewine Gold Vidal Blanc 90 one of Argentina’s best Cabernetss for the money. This (Niagara Peninsula). High-toned apple-ci- 90 vintage offers a mineral aroma along with rose petal, Telteca 2009 Anta Reserve Malbec (Men­ der aromas on the nose belie the gorgeously fresh pal- baked plum and spiced cherry scents. It feels deep, gen- 88 doza). Balsam wood, pencil eraser, coconut, ate. This is lip-smackingly good, with a concentrated erous and balanced, with cassis, blackberry, earth and anise and blackberry aromas share the bouquet. It feels fresh-fruit flavor that’s sweet and bright with notes of molasses flavors. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. linear and a touch scratchy, with roasted berry and hibiscus nectar and honey. It lingers long and smooth on abv: 14.5% Price: $18 toasted flavors that steer toward bacon. It feels a little the finish. Constellation Brands, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $77/375 ml

WineMag.com | 39 gritty and short on the finish. Fleischer International Trivento 2010 Amado Sur Malbec-Bo­ feel, with a good acidic lift on the finish, alongside hints Trading, Inc. —M.S. 88 narda-Syrah (Mendoza). This is dusty and of peach pit and orange oil. Hess Collection. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 smooth up front, with plenty of oak, balsamic, plum and abv: 14% Price: $17 berry aromas. Showing overall harmony, it feels sure Pulenta Estate 2011 Bodega La Flor Mal­ and secure, with depth and solid flavors of toasty ber- Thelema 2010 Sutherland Chardonnay 84 bec (Mendoza). Violet in color, this has ample ry and bitter chocolate. It tastes similarly on the finish, 87 (Elgin). Notes of red apple, pear and a touch of berry and cassis notes on the bouquet. It feels edgy and with a jammy feel. A blend of 80% Malbec with 10% sweet spice lead on the nose. It’s balanced and refresh- grabby, with oaky, spicy plum and blackberry flavors. Bonarda and 10% Syrah. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. ing, with apple skin and orange flavors on the palate that The fruit component fades fast on the finish, leaving a abv: 14% Price: $15 linger well onto the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. dry, peppery aftertaste. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Amalaya 2010 Red (Calchaqui Valley). 87 This smells of exotic blueberry and graham Winery of Good Hope 2011 Unoaked Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Malbec (Mendo­ cracker, and it feels wide and solid, with herbal, woodsy 87 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). There’s great 83 za). Stalky red-fruit aromas suggest rhubarb flavors of juniper and plum. Dry and healthy on the fin- vibrancy on the nose of this wine, with bright scents of and nettles. It feels fresh, lean and dry, with flavors of ish, this made from 75% Malbec, with Cabernet Sauvi- ripe nectarine and pineapple core, framed by a floral herbal berry, snappy red cherry and tomato. It turns gnon, Syrah and Tannat in the blend. Hess Collection. accent reminiscent of rose water. The mouthfeel is light more stalky and herbal on the finish. Pasternak Wine —M.S. and accessible, with yellow apple and lime rind flavors. Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 Drink now. World Premiere Wines LLC. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Verum 2011 Malbec (Alto Valle del Río SYRAH/SHIRAZ Negro). The scratchy berry aromas are solid Edgebaston 2010 Chardonnay (Stellen­ 82 Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Syrah (Mendo­ upfront—good enough to urge a swig of this wine. What bosch). Hints of yellow flowers mingle with za). Bright and bold to the eye, this has gener- 86 comes next is a soupy, herbal, tomato-influenced Mal- 87 flavors of fresh apple slices and Anjou pear cores. The ous, powerful berry aromas that come with a note of bec that finishes like gazpacho. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. palate is rich and round, with ripe fruit flavors and a spice. It feels stacked and only slightly tangy, with black abv: 13.9% Price: $17 touch of orange peel that stays through the medium- fruit and some of Syrah’s more textbook flavors of leath- length finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. er and animal. It holds form on the finish. The Wine Manos Negras 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 13.5% Price: $18 81 This is hard coated with a creamy plastic note Group. Best Buy. —M.S. and a milk chocolate scent. Overall it smells heavily abv: 14% Price: $10 La Capra Presented by Fairview 2010 oaked and artificial. It feels resiny, with sticky tannins Chardonnay (Western Cape). Fruit-for- Callia 2011 Alta Shiraz (Tulum Valley). 86 and thickness, tasting of hickory and carob. Vino Del ward and easy pleasing, this offers bright aromas and For full reveiw see page 13. Best Buy. Sol. —M.S. 85 flavors of fresh peach slices, melons and yellow apples. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 14% Price: $15 A soft baking-spice accent and suggestions of walnut shells add interest to the medium-length finish. Vine- Trivento 2011 Reserve Syrah (Mendoza). Black Box 2011 3 L Malbec (Mendoza). yard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. Asphalt and gaseous aromas take a while to set- This smells like citrus and rhubarb more than 84 abv: 14% Price: $11 80 tle, but after they do, leather and scratchy blackberry Malbec, with a tart, herbal palate that’s high in acid and scents surface. It feels big and brawny, with max extrac- short on enjoyability. Constellation Brands, Inc. —M.S. tion. It tastes masculine but salty, with bitter chocolate abv: 13% Price: $25/3 L SAUVIGNON BLANC and peppery accents. Bulky for $11 wine. Banfi Vint- ners. —M.S. Buitenverwachting 2011 Beyond Sauvi­ RED BLENDS abv: 14% Price: $11 87 gnon Blanc (Coastal Region). Ripe notes of pineapple and firm guava are framed by bracing acidity Lagarde 2010 Guarda (Luján de Cuyo). Funky Llama 2011 Shiraz (Mendoza). that lends a slight prickle to the palate. Flavors of sweet 90 Aromas of balsam wood, dry spice, berries and 82 Light and cheesy smelling, this has herbal red- grass and Key lime develop and carry onto the clean fin- vanilla are attractive and inviting. It feels lush and deep, fruit aromas. It feels quick and hard across the palate, ish. Drink now. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. with good layering and robust flavors of berry fruit, with strawberry, raspberry and herbal flavors. Vision abv: 12.5% Price: $12 spice, herb and tobacco. Flush and slightly herbal tast- Wine & Spirits. —M.S. ing on the back end, this is a complex, quality blend of abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Indaba 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Malbec, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. Dangerous Wine 86 Cape). Green plum and tart gooseberry aro- Group. —M.S. Canoas 2011 Estate Collection Syrah mas and flavors lead the way of this lively selection. abv: 14% Price: $29 80 (San Juan). This is minty green up front, with Linear and direct on the palate, it has refreshing notes a dilute cherry aroma. It feels hollow with green flavors of lime rind, sweet grass and a touch of white flower. Alamos 2010 Red Blend (Mendoza). For that override mild red-fruit notes. Herbal on the finish. Clean and balanced; drink now. Cape Classics. Best 88 full review see page 12. Best Buy. HGC Imports. —M.S. Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.2% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $10

Bodega Tacuil 2010 Red (Salta). A black- MAN Vintners 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 88 fruit aroma comes with accents of tobacco and SOUTH AFRICA 85 (Western Cape). This is forward and fresh, prune but also a strong, almost vegetal green angle. It with notes of green apple, gooseberry and lemon-lime feels nice and full, with green-leaning flavors of spiced CHARDONNAY on the nose and palate. Zippy and mouthwatering, it has berry and juniper. Tobacco, bitter lettuce and green faint suggestions of lime zest and fresh-cut grass on the bean notes all make appearances on the finish. This is Glen Carlou 2010 Chardonnay (Paarl). back. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. a blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 89 Here’s a ripe, lush Chardonnay that’s brimming abv: 13% Price: $11 Vine Connections. —M.S. with succulent notes of grilled apple, peach, toasted bri- abv: 15% Price: $100 oche and baking spice. It boasts a full, creamy mouth- Durbanville Hills 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 84 (Durbanville). Light and easy, this has direct

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 aromas and flavors of green plum, lime, just-dried grass Graham Beck 2003 Cuvée Clive (Western Boekenhoutskloof 2011 The Wolftrap and underripe mango. Medium acidity keeps the fin- 87 Cape). A distinct note of honeycomb marries 85 Rosé (Western Cape). Aromatic and lively, ish clean and bright. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. harmoniously with the pear and hard nectarine aromas. this fresh rosé offers bright notes of juicy peach, red —L.B. A nice creaminess fills the mouth, with green apple and cherry and wild strawberry. The medium-weight pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 citrus flavors, which finish on an appropriately toasty yet ate is balanced by refreshing, orange-infused acidity mouthwatering note. This already shows nice develop- that results in a clean, mouthwatering finish. Vineyard ment; drink now. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Brands. —L.B. WHITE BLENDS —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Bradgate 2011 Sauvignon Blanc-Chen­ abv: 11% Price: $55 Saronsberg 2010 Provenance Shiraz in Blanc (Stellenbosch). This is open and 90 Graham Beck 2005 Brut Zero (Western Rosé (Tulbagh). This is so intense and fruit likeable, with forward aromas of fresh red apple slices, 84 Cape). Green plum, apple and lemon-rind aro- forward, the aromas are almost like those of Fruit Roll- white pineapple cores and green-melon rind. It’s brisk 86 mas and flavors are at the center of this dry sparkler. It’s Ups. Notes of strawberry, raspberry and peach abound and clean on the palate, with good cut and freshness to clean and refreshing, with medium carbonation and a on the nose and palate, with good acidic lift that just bal- the fruity core. A touch of herbaceousness adds charac- brisk, mouthwatering finish. Drink now. Maritime Wine ances all of that fruity sweetness. Wine Sources. —L.B. ter to the lingering finish. World Premiere Wines LLC. Trading Collective. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Orange River Wine Cellars NV Star Tree Cape View 2010 Combination Sauvignon CABERNET SAUVIGNON Brut Sparkling Wine (Northern Cape). For Blanc-Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). Rich 86 Excelsior 2010 Hands Cabernet Sauvi­ 87 full review see page 13. Best Buy. fruit aromas of yellow apple flesh, mealy pear and ba- gnon (Robertson). This value selection is a abv: 11% Price: $11 86 nana lead the bouquet, with a hint of grapefruit pith no-brainer, with medium tannins providing good struc- in the background. The palate is tangier and more lift- ture to the ripe palate. Boysenberry and black currant Solms-Delta NV Solms Astor Cape Jazz ed than the nose suggests, with bright flavors of green flavors mingle with spicy accents of hoisin sauce, lico- Shiraz (Coastal Region). Vibrantly efferves- plum and citrus juice. Knauth & Visser LLC. Best Buy. 86 rice and coffee bean. Drink now. Cape Classics. Best cent and bursting with ripe, juicy strawberry and cherry —L.B. Buy. —L.B. fruit notes, this has a fine-sandpaper-like texture. It’s an abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: NA Price: $9 interesting selection that would pair well with barbe- The Ruins 2011 Made With Organic cue or pulled-pork dishes. Worthwhile Wine Company. Helderberg Wijnmakerij 2010 Cabernet —L.B. Grapes Chardonnay-Viognier (Eilandia). Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). A solid and 87 abv: 9.5% Price: $20 86 Apple and citrus aromas mingle on the nose, with hints well-made selection, this boasts plenty of blackberry of steely minerality and just-dried grass. The medium- and cassis aromas and flavors, laced with hints of lico- Weltevrede 2008 Philip Jonker The Ring weight mouthfeel boasts flavors of underripe stone fruit rice root and warm spice. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Blanc de Blancs Brut (Robertson). Toast and lemon zest, shifting to riper orange and pear flavors 86 abv: 14.5% Price: $13 and fresh hay aromas immediately waft from the glass, as the finish evolves. Indigo Wine Group.Best Buy. with supporting notes of red apple and spiced orange —L.B. Porcupine Ridge 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­ peel. Round and full in the mouth, it has good mousse abv: 12.5% Price: $10 gnon (Coastal Region). Light notes of forest and a soft honeyed accent that carries through onto the 86 berry, cassis and licorice root unfold on the nose and on finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. Haute Cabrière 2010 Chardonnay-Pinot the medium-weight palate. This might not be the most abv: 11.5% Price: $28 86 Noir (Franschhoek). Made from 70% Char- complex wine, but it’s clean, balanced and approachable donnay and 30% Pinot Noir, this is clean yet nuanced, now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Orange River Wine Cellars NV Star Tree with subtle suggestions of strawberry hull and freshly abv: 14.5% Price: $13 Cuvée Brulsand Doux Sparkling Wine picked herbs to the white peach and Key lime core. Me- 84 (Northern Cape). This sparkler is sweet but attractive dium weight, with a mouthwatering finish; drink now. Excelsior 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon and balanced, with a lovely lychee, peach and rose water Knauth & Visser LLC. —L.B. (Robertson). Consistently a good value se- aromatic profile. The carbonation is not overly assertive, 85 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 lection, this showcases ripe black-fruit characteristics and the acidity is brisk enough to keep the finish from of cherry, berry and plum, alongside nuances of savory coming off as cloyingly sweet. DRG Imports. —L.B. Stellenbosch Hills 2011 Polkadraai herbs and fresh menthol leaves. Medium weight, with a abv: 10% Price: $11 86 Chenin Blanc-Sauvignon Blanc (Pol­ mouth-filling texture and a slightly chewy finish. Cape kadraai Hills). This is quite grassy and herbaceous, Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. with an almost perfumy quality to the bouquet. Fruity ROSÉS abv: 14.5% Price: $10 flavors of pineapple, mango and tangerine help to flesh out the medium-weight palate, ending clean and lifted. Kanonkop 2011 Kadette Dry Pinotage MAN Vintners 2010 Cabernet Sauvi­ Drink now. Votto Vines Importing. —L.B. 86 Rosé (Stellenbosch). Delicate aromas of 85 gnon (Coastal Region). A green streak runs abv: 12.5% Price: $14 white cherry and strawberry lead the nose and car- through this wine, adding an herbal character to the ry through onto the palate with a bit more intensity. black cherry and plum aromas and flavors. Low tannins There’s texture to the mouthfeel, with flavors of red and medium acidity produce an overall easy profile and SPARKLING WINES cherry and plum skin that stay through the medium- light mouthfeel. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $11 Graham Beck 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs length finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: NA Price: $15 (Robertson). Delicate accents of green apple 87 Tormentoso 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon flesh, juicy orange and peach pit fill out the nose and Slowine 2011 Rosé (Western Cape). (Paarl). This smells dark and concentrated, yet mouth of this attractive sparkler. The slightly aggressive 85 Dainty floral aromas accent the soft strawberry the blackberry and cassis core is lifted by a powdery, carbonation keeps the palate fresh and mouthwatering, 86 and red-cherry fruit core. Bright and lifted on the pal- purple-potpourri accent. There’s a strong woody pres- and a hint of baking spice graces the brisk finish. Mari- ate, it has a juicy finish of mixed berry flavors. World ence on the palate, with baking spice and vanilla bean time Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. flavors that linger. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $13

WineMag.com | 41 coa powder accents. Drink now. Terlato Wines Inter- overall austere texture, finishing tight and grippy. World PINOTAGE national. —L.B. Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. Ken Forrester 2011 Petit Pinotage (West­ abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 86 ern Cape). This is a jammy and fruit-forward selection, with lively notes of raspberry, strawberry and Porcupine Ridge 2010 Syrah (Coastal Kanonkop 2010 Kadette (Stellenbosch). red plum, accented by nuances of potpourri and gamy 87 Region). Notes of forest floor and menthol 87 This Pinotage-dominant blend is a bit closed to meat. Medium tannins and skin-driven fruit flavors pro- leaves add depth to the jammy core of boysenberry and begin, but opens up after some time in the glass to re- vide the palate nice structure and grip. Cape Classics. blueberry fruits. It’s solidly structured, with approach- veal enticing notes of dark berries, plums and whole va- —L.B. able tannins and medium acidity. A touch of cocoa stays nilla beans. Medium tannins and jammy, crushed-berry abv: 14% Price: $12 through the medium-length finish. Drink now. Vineyard fruit flavors flesh out the palate, ending on a textured Brands. —L.B. plum-skin flavor. Cape Classics. —L.B. False Bay 2011 Pinotage (Western abv: 14.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $15 85 Cape). The bouquet bursts with ripe black- fruit aromas, alongside hints of crushed violet petals. Excelsior 2010 Syrah (Robertson). There’s The mouthfeel is round and filling, with a chocolaty fla- 85 an herbal streak to the berry center of this wine, WHITE BURGUNDY vor that stays through to the finish. USA Wine West. with just the faintest suggestion of mocha that unfolds —L.B. on the finish. The texture is full and slightly creamy, CHABLIS abv: 13.5% Price: $13 with dusty tannins providing enough structure and bal- ance. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Mwitu 2011 Wild Wine Pinotage (West­ abv: 14% Price: $10 95 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). This is taut 85 ern Cape). Accents of crushed violets add in- and mineral, with hidden power. It’s very closed at this terest to the wild strawberry, blackberry and plum fruit Neil Ellis 2010 Sincerely Shiraz (Western stage. It’s a wine with acidity and notes of green fruits core. Mouthwatering and clean, this has dusty tannins 85 Cape). Scents of cherry and raspberry sauce and crisp apples, with just a touch of wood. This will and medium acidity that provide a nice structure. Testa unfold on the bouquet, while the approachable palate age for many years. European Cellars. Cellar Selec- Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —L.B. offers similarly intense, fleshy fruit flavors that are laced tion. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $10 with hints of pepper and soft mint. Vineyard Brands. abv: NA Price: $70 —L.B. Winery of Good Hope 2011 Bush Vine Pi­ abv: 14% Price: $14 Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Grenouilles Grand Cru (Chablis). 85 notage (Stellenbosch). Here’s a bright Pino- 94 Firm tage that offers aromas of blackberry and plum, as well Wamakersvallei 2010 Bain’s Way Shiraz and closed, this shows both richness and minerality. It as faint hints of dried herb and cured meat. The pal- 84 (Wellington). Bright and easy, this has direct has hidden power, concentration and a steely edge. It’s ate is light and easy drinking, with approachable tan- aromas and flavors of red cherry and raspberry. It’s light crisp and densely packed with minerality and ripeness. nins and a short but clean finish. World Premiere Wines in weight, with low tannins and a short but clean finish. For aging over at least seven years. European Cellars. LLC. —L.B. Drink now. Wine Sources. —L.B. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $11 abv: NA Price: $70

Ernst Gouws & Co. 2010 Pinotage (Coast­ Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 Valmur Grand Cru (Chablis). al Region). Scents of cured meat and campfire RED BLENDS 94 This is beauti- 84 fully rich and powerful, with tropical fruit flavors and a take center stage on the nose, with secondary support Thelema 2009 Mountain Red (Western hint of wood. It has enormous concentration of sweet, from black plum and boysenberry aromas. A strong bil- Cape). 89 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, ripe white and yellow fruits, balanced by the sharp cut tong and cardamom-spice flavor carries through onto Shiraz, Petit Verdot and Grenache, with a spine that’s the palate, and remains through the finish. Bronco of acidity. European Cellars. —R.V. all ripe dark berries and cherries. But there’s enough abv: NA Price: $60 Wine Company. —L.B. savory herbs and peppery spices to keep it complex and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 layered. The texture is slightly creamy, with a lush, fruity Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Blanchots palate, and a tobacco- and toasted-spice-infused finish. MAN Vintners 2010 Pinotage (Coastal 94 Grand Cru (Chablis). Structured and miner- Cape Classics. —L.B. ally, this has citrus fruits that sit prominently over the 84 Region). There’s an attractive wild and bram- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 bly edge to this wine, with notes of tree bark and game tight acidity. A vanilla note is there to round the wine out. The crisp fruits and steely acids are intense and im- that spice up the berry and plum fruit core. The struc- Edgebaston 2010 The Berry Box (Stel­ pressively balanced. Age for at least 5 years. Screwcap. ture is approachable now, with light tannins and a short 88 lenbosch). Light nuances of baking spice and finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. forest floor grace the notes of lively black cherry and abv: 13% Price: $86 abv: 14% Price: $11 raspberry. The velvety mouthfeel is juicy and fruit for- ward, with a jammy richness that transitions onto the Wamakersvallei 2010 Bain’s Way Pino­ La Chablisienne 2009 Château Gre­ long finish, alongside a touch of black pepper. Southern nouilles Grand Cru (Chablis). tage (Paarl). Medium-intense spice and game 94 The vines 84 Starz, Inc. —L.B. here have produced a 2009 that is hugely ripe, rounded aromas inflect the ripe forest-berry and cherry fruits. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 This is accessible and easy, with low tannins and a clean and concentrated. With its sweet wood and vanilla fla- vors, with balancing apple and apricot fruits, it’s a wine finish. Wine Sources. —L.B. Neil Ellis 2010 The Left Bank (Western for pleasure soon, but it will also age. Grape Expecta- abv: 14% Price: $11 Cape). 88 For full review see page 11. tions (CA). —R.V. 14% $15 abv: Price: abv: 13% Price: $90 SHIRAZ/SYRAH Bradgate 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Mer­ Pascal Bouchard 2010 Les Clos Grand lot-Shiraz (Stellenbosch). Guardian Peak 2010 Shiraz (Western 87 Glimmers of wet 94 Cru (Chablis). The epitome of Grand Cru 87 Cape). Dark and lush, this has notes of for- rocks and pencil shavings inflect the blackberry and cas- Chablis, this is mineral and fruit driven—impressive est berry and plum flesh. The mouthfeel is round and sis elements of this wine, adding depth and interest. both from its richness and its tense structure. The pow- slightly creamy, with dense blackberry and raspberry Soft herbal characteristics and green tannins result in an er comes from the depth of flavor that brings the texture flavors, and a finish that’s dusted with pepper and -co

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 right through the wine. Age for 5–7 years. Wine Sym- 50-year-old vines, this is a powerful expression of rich Pascal Bouchard 2008 Blanchot Grand phony, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Chardonnay. It has great depth of flavor, with concen- 92 Cru (Chablis). This has a nutty, almond char- abv: 13% Price: $NA trated, intense and ripe yellow and white fruits, spiced acter that is integrating with the crisp texture. Taut and from having aged in the wood. Allow to age for over five generous, this has richness, with a wood and citrus char- Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. acter. Age for another year. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. 93 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). A abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA wonderfully balanced wine, this shows a vanilla note that harmonizes with its ripe tropical fruit and a distinct Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Les Clos Romain Bouchard 2010 Vau de Vey Pre­ touch of minerality. Wood aging shows through on the 92 Grand Cru (Chablis). This is rich and ripe, 92 mier Cru (Chablis). Steely, minerally and finish. —R.V. with just a touch of wood influence. It has a tropical fruit very textured, this has concentratio and taut layer of abv: NA Price: $NA and lime flavor, with lemon zest acidity. It is full, very acidity to go with the lime fruit. Powered by its struc- structured and mineral, adding the complexity of ripe ture, it will age for 3–4 years. Williams Corner Wine. Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 fruit. Age for 3–4 years. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru (Cha­ —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA blis). With wood-based aromas, this is currently a abv: NA Price: $81 closed, taut wine. It has green fruits and minerality; it’s Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Montmains nervy and under tension. The acidity is crisp while very Château de Maligny 2010 Les Clos Grand 91 Premier Cru (Chablis). Crisp and fruity, but light in character. This is for aging. European Cellars. 92 Cru (Chablis). Still very firm and closed, this also with some weight, this dense, textured wine has Cellar Selection. —R.V. is textured and rich, with intense mineral and wood fla- a very minerally character, with a straight line of tight abv: NA Price: $40 vors that balance the steeliness. It’s full bodied, taut and acidity. This is complex and tense while also refreshing. nervy, with a concentrated core. Age for at least four Terlato Wines International. —R.V. Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 years. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. Cellar Selec- abv: NA Price: $55 93 Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). This tion. —R.V. shows a hint of mineral along with tropical fruit. This is abv: 12.5% Price: $70 Château de Maligny 2010 Fourchaume a seductive combination that shows richness and a taut, 91 Premier Cru (Chablis). Round and rich, this nervy character. Age for at least six years. European Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 has streaks of lemon and orange zest that cut through Cellars. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 92 Mont-de-Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). the vanilla and creamed apple texture. A note of spice abv: NA Price: $36 Floral, fragrant and fruity, this has a lively character, makes the wine complex and rich. This is worth aging with notes of apples and pears, and a great sweep of for several years. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Clos Grand acidity. It shows freshness, crispness and richness at the —R.V. 93 Cru (Chablis). Concentrated and structured, same time. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 this layers wood and vanilla flavors with a taut, miner- abv: NA Price: $NA al character. With its richness and well-balanced citrus, Château de Maligny 2010 L’Homme Mort tropical fruit flaavors, it will certainly age for at least Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Vaillons Vie­ 91 Premier Cru (Chablis). “L’Homme Mort,” four years. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. 92 illes Vignes Premier Cru (Chablis). Taut, which is French for “the dead man,” is a small section abv: NA Price: $115 and closed, this is very structured. The green fruits, of the Fourchaume Premier Cru, and it is a signature mineral structure and flinty character offer a severe, wine of Jean Durup’s Château de Maligny. It’s opulent, Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Fourchau­ complex wine. Layered with a caramel note, this is set ripe and rounded, with a full, fruity character and toast 93 mes Vieilles Vignes Premier Cru (Cha­ to age over many years. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. flavor. On the finish, there is an edge of grapefruit acid- blis). This has extra richness that lends the wine con- —R.V. ity. Age for 3–4 years. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. centration and ripeness. An intense structure of min- abv: NA Price: $NA Cellar Selection. —R.V. erality is balanced by yellow fruit, bearing a round and abv: 12.5% Price: $40 full texture, with great depth of flavor. Age for at least Pascal Bouchard 2010 Vaudésir Grand five years. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selec- 92 Cru (Chablis). Honey and wood aromas lead Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 tion. —R.V. to a rich, generally rounded wine. Having aged in wood, 91 Vaillons Premier Cru (Chablis). This has abv: NA Price: $NA the white fruits are full, soft and ripe. It’s not all imme- a warm, rounded character, with pressing minerality. diate pleasure; the wine has a more complex undertow Notes of apple, pear and a touch of vanilla all add rich- La Chablisienne 2009 Les Preuses Grand of structure, sweet malolactic character and complex ness and an open character. It has warm, rich fruit on 93 Cru (Chablis). From this rich vintage comes acidity on the finish. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. the finish. European Cellars. —R.V. this delicious, open wine. Flavors of tropical fruit and abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $30 peach create an opulent and generous feel, with notes from having aged in wood offering complexity. It’s con- Pascal Bouchard 2009 Blanchot Grand Domaine Laroche 2010 Les Vaudevey centrated and ageworthy, worth keeping for 4–5 years 92 Cru (Chablis). Bouchard owns 0.54 acres of 91 Premier Cru (Chablis). Full and rounded, and more. Grape Expectations (CA). Cellar Selection. this grand cru vineyard. Rounded, ripe and soft, this has this has ripe apple and peach fruits that are contrast- —R.V. wood flavors that are an integral part of this rich, yellow- ed with the taut, minerally line of citrusy acidity. It has abv: 13% Price: $70 fruited wine. With spice and caramel notes to go with weight and structure from the flavors of apple skin and the fruit, it is already delicious, although it will age over orange zest. It needs to age at least four years. Screw- Pascal Bouchard 2010 Blanchot Grand 3–4 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. cap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. 93 Cru (Chablis). Using grapes sourced from abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA a steep slope in the Blanchot Vineyard, this powerful wine shows richness as well as concentrated fruitiness. Pascal Bouchard 2009 Vaudésir Grand Domaine Vrignaud 2010 Vieilles Vignes Its smooth, mineral texture is punctuated acidity and 92 Cru (Chablis). Big and rounded, this tastes 91 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Made flavors of apricot and melon fruit. Age for 4–5 years. rich and packed with ripe fruit. It as weight and a yellow from grapes sourced from vines that were planted in Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. fruit flavor, with notes of red apple and canteloupe. It 1955, this is ripe and rich. The fruit is still reticent, but abv: 13% Price: $NA is soft, delicious and almost ready to drink. Wine Sym- it will develop into a concentrated, full-bodied wine. Its phony, Inc. —R.V. density is balanced by a firm, minerally structure. Age Pascal Bouchard 2009 Les Clos Grand abv: 13% Price: $NA 93 Cru (Chablis). Using grapes sourced from

WineMag.com | 43 this for 2–3 years. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Se- it needs to age for at least three years. Vermont Wine is what defines the tight, crisp finish. Blasons de Bour- lection. —R.V. Merchants. Cellar Selection. —R.V. gogne Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $56 abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

La Chablisienne 2010 Fourchaume Pre­ La Chablisienne 2010 Monte de Milieu La Chablisienne 2009 Les Vénérables 91 mier Cru (Chablis). This exudes notes of ripe 90 Premier Cru (Chablis). Finely structured 89 Vieilles Vignes (Chablis). This is dense and yellow fruits while keeping an edge of structure. It’s fra- and aromatic, this is initially dense before opening up ripe—more concentrated than the standard Chablis cu- grant, with a fine dense texture that brings out acidity with ripe yellow fruit, becoming balanced by orange- vée from La Chablisienne. Yellow fruits mingle with and a caramel flavor. It has aging potential, so keep it and tangerine-like acidity. It has a young, zesty texture apple crispness, creating a balanced wine that’s com- for over three years. Ruby Wines Inc. Editors’ Choice. that pairs with the rich concentration, promising to age plex and worth aging for another year. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. over 3–4 years. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Pascal Bouchard 2010 Les Vieilles Vi­ Pascal Bouchard 2010 Beauroy Premier Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Chablis. This 91 gnes Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). 90 Cru (Chablis). Smooth and rounded, this ex- 88 is a very minerally wine with a fine, steely, taut With that extra concentration that comes from low- hibits the opulent side of Chablis while retaining an el- character. It offers notes of fresh-cut apple and citrus yielding old vines, this has great depth of flavor. It has an egant structure. It has flavors of yellow and white fruits juice, with a lively, bright finish. Terlato Wines Interna- apple flavor and crisp, citrusy acidity as well as a more that combine with a nutty character, a mineral texture tional. —R.V. toasty character. Complex and certainly ageworthy, this and a refreshing, crisp finish. Age for 3–4 years. Wine abv: NA Price: $27 should keep for at least five years. Wine Symphony, Inc. Symphony, Inc. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Château de Maligny 2010 Vieilles Vignes abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 88 (Chablis). Attractive and dense, this has rich Pascal Bouchard 2010 Fourchaume Pre­ apricot and green plum fruits, with a full texture that Bernard Defaix 2010 Vieilles Vignes 90 mier Cru Vieilles Vignes (Chablis). Big, lends a mineral edge. With its concentration, it should 90 (Chablis). A fragrant apple-skin aroma sets and powerful, this has generous flavors of yellow fruit, age for at least a year. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. the scene for this wine that is warm and ripe. A touch of pear and integrated spice. It has weight to go with its —R.V. nutmeg adds an extra dimension to its yellow fruits. It’s more fruity character. With wood influence, refreshing abv: 12.5% Price: $25 rich while still remaining true to its minerally, terroir- acidity and a suggestion of tannin, it will age over the based origins. Age for two years. Winebow. Editors’ next 2–3 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. Damien et Romain Bouchard 2010 Broc Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA 88 de Biques (Chablis). Round and fruity, this abv: NA Price: $22 is a crisp and pure wine. It has a straight line of acid- Pierre André 2010 Chablis. Smooth and ity that cuts through the green apple and citrus fruits. Château de Maligny 2010 Vau de Vey 90 rich, this is full of ripe apricot and peach fla- The zesty texture dances on the palate. Williams Corner 90 Premier Cru (Chablis). This is a tightly tex- vors that warmly embrace the palate. A vanilla flavor Wine. —R.V. tured wine that has plenty of green stone fruit as well adds softness. On the finish, juicy acidity cuts in to give abv: 12.5% Price: $NA as a bitter almond edge. It is taut, and the fruit has not a crisper feel. Kinson The Future of Wine. Editors’ completely surfaced yet. Age for three years. Margate Choice. —R.V. Domaine Charly Nicolle 2010 Cuvée An­ Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. abv: 12.8% Price: $NA 88 cestrum (Chablis). Soft and rich, this is laden abv: 12.5% Price: $90 with ripe tropical fruits. The wine has a tangy, orange- Domaine Pommier 2010 Chablis. Ripely zest texture, bringing brightness to this concentrated, Damien et Romain Bouchard 2010 Vail­ 89 rich, this is full of soft fruit, with a dominant generous wine. On the finish, there is a mineral edge. 90 lon Premier Cru (Chablis). With the typical note of apricot. It has just a touch of spice to add pi- Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. intense acidity of 2010, this is a taut, fruit- and miner- quancy, while the smooth texture is given a tight edge abv: NA Price: $NA al-driven Chablis. Its fruitiness is balanced by judicious by a lemon juice flavor. An impressive wine that will toast and vanilla flavors. Age for 2–3 years. Williams age over the next 2–3 years. Robert Kacher Selections. Domaine Pommier 2010 Croix au Moines Corner Wine. —R.V. —R.V. 88 (Chablis). Crisp and minerally, this has an ap- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ple and grapefruit feel. It is fresh and very fruity; the upfront acidity lends an intensely refreshing character. Domaine du Colombier 2010 Chablis. Domaine Vrignaud 2010 Les Champré­ This is ready to drink. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. 90 This is rich and rounded, with ripe apple and 89 aux (Chablis). A rich, yet finely structured abv: 12.5% Price: $NA peach flavors. It has a good depth of flavor that comes wine, this is full of acidity and bright green and yel- from the complex play between toast and sweet fruit low fruits. It’s delicious, mouth-filling and refreshing, Fourrey et Fils 2011 Chablis. This is very notes. It has weight, and it can age over the next two touched by notes of wood and citrus, with a smooth, 88 textured, with lemon zest and grapefruit acidity. years. Le Serbet. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. toasty finish. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. It shows refreshing acidity, with a minerally, tangy and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $34 tight feel. With all this tautness, the wine needs to age for another 2–3 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Joseph Drouhin 2010 Drouhin -Vaudon Francine et Olivier Savary 2010 Chablis. abv: 12% Price: $NA 90 Premier Cru (Chablis). For full review see 89 This is a rich mouthful of a wine, with ripe notes page 10. Editors’ Choice. of red apple and green plum. Behind the fruit, there is Fourrey et Fils 2010 Chablis. Bright and abv: 13% Price: $37 a soft vanilla edge that adds depth of flavor. It’s concen- 88 fruity, this has refreshing acidity. It has a lively trated and ready to age for 2–3 years. Kermit Lynch apple flavor that gives a delicate fragrance and juiciness. La Chablisienne 2010 Côte de Léchet Wine Merchant. —R.V. With its taut, mineral texture, this is classic, unoaked 90 Premier Cru (Chablis). The small Côte abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Chablis. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. de Léchet Premier Cru offers a steely vision of Cha- abv: 12% Price: $25 blis—crisp and driven by apple and grapefruit flavors. La Chablisienne 2010 Les Vénérables It is bright and taut; like any wine from this vineyard, 89 (Chablis). While the wine seems at first rich, J. Moreau et Fils 2010 Chablis. Ripe, it then shows a tautly acidic character that gives a re- 88 smooth and creamy, this has just a touch of freshing character to the roundness. That steely acidity wood to give extra roundness to the ripe yellow and cit-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 rus fruits. Ready to drink wine. Boisset Family Estates. strong streak of acidity that adds a crisp feel to the apple Domaine du Chardonnay 2010 Chablis. —R.V. and apricot fruits. It should really age for another year. 86 This shows more texture than fruit, but it has abv: 12% Price: $20 Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. weight and richness that will come forward in the next abv: 12.5% Price: $24 two years. Its clean apple fruit is likely to be the domi- Joseph Drouhin 2010 Drouhin -Vaudon nant factor. Massanois Imports. —R.V. 88 Réserve de Vaudon (Chablis). This is very Corinne et Pierre Grossot 2010 Chablis. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA lemony, with a flint note and fine acidity that the wine 87 This is rich with flavors of yellow fruit and ripe a crisp edge. It’s lively and bright, with a rounded char- pear. It has a good texture, with crisp, citrusy acidity that Domaine Jean-Claude Courtault 2010 acter. The finish has a lightly salty taste. Dreyfus, Ashby adds a lively edge to this ripe wine. While it’s already 86 Chablis. Initially, this tastes of only crisp acid- & Co. —R.V. drinkable, give this another six months of aging. World ity, but the fruitier flavors of lemon and red apple come abv: 13% Price: $23 Wine Source. —R.V. through slowly, giving weight to this lively, bright wine. abv: 13% Price: $22 The minerally, edgy texture is prominent on the finish. La Chablisienne 2010 La Sereine (Cha­ North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. 88 blis). Juicy and fruity, this has apple and lemon Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA flavors that combine with a steely edge. It’s refreshing 87 Chablis. This shows good crispness, with an and crisp, with a bright, lively character, and a tang on apple flavor and zesty acidity. The fruitiness is balanced Domaine Laroche 2011 Saint-Martin the finish. Blasons de Bourgogne Inc. —R.V. by a mineral edge and a touch of caramel. European 86 (Chablis). This is crisp and attractively citrusy, abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Cellars. —R.V. with a touch of caramel. It’s bright and fruity, with ap- abv: NA Price: $24 ple and lemon flavors that are well integrated with the La Chablisienne 2009 La Sereine (Cha­ piercingly refreshing acidity. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels 88 blis). Soft and rounded, this has apple and Domaine L. Chatelain 2010 Fourchaume Ltd. —R.V. peach fruits, with a lemon zest texture. The acidity is 87 Premier Cru (Chablis). This demonstrates a abv: NA Price: $NA a refreshing counterweight to the smooth character. fine balance between the crisp white and peach fruits Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. and the nervy texture that keeps this feeling taut and L. Tramier et Fils 2011 Chablis. This is abv: 12.5% Price: $22 sharp. Beneath the fruity surface there is structure and 86 fruity, with a hint of the vintage’s crisp mineral- a mineral character. Age for another 2–3 years. Saranty ity. It has citrus and apple flavors, with a touch of toast. Lupé-Cholet 2010 Cuvée Château de Imports. —R.V. Ready to drink in a year. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. 88 Viviers (Chablis). Soft and warm, this already abv: 13% Price: $34 abv: 12.5% Price: $28 a pleasure to drink. It has ripe apple fruit and balanced acidity, with a fragrant orange-peel edge and lemon-like La Chablisienne 2010 La Pierrelée (Cha­ Louis Latour 2010 Chablis. Light and fruity, acidity on the finish. This is delicious as an apèritif and 87 blis). This is initially round and ripe, with a hint 86 this has a yeasty edge along with acidity. On the with food. Europvin. —R.V. of vanilla, before showing a more structured, steely side. palate, there are lots of green fruits, offering a dancing, abv: 12.4% Price: $20 It shows fine balance between its intense texture and lively character. At the end, there is a touch of vanilla. fruitiness, promising 2–3 years of aging. Ruby Wines Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Nathalie et Gilles Fèvre 2010 Chablis. Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30 88 This is rich and rounded, touched by a note of abv: 12.5% Price: $22 vanilla that softens the natural texture and acidity. It’s Pascal Bouchard 2011 Le Classique ripe yet still with refreshing, with juicy acidity on the Romain Bouchard 2010 Le Grand Bois 86 (Chablis). This is an attractive light and fruity finish. Age this for a year for even better drinkability. 87 (Chablis). Smooth, round and soft, this has wine. It has fresh fruit flavors, with notes of crisp citrus Jeff Wellburn Selections. —R.V. an open character, with intense, ripe yellow fruit that and green apple. A touch of vanilla and a smooth tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $24 is lifted by pineapple- and lime-like acidity. Give it an- ture surface as it opens up. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. other year for the fruit to fully open. Williams Corner abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Pascal Bouchard 2010 Montmains Pre­ Wine. —R.V. 88 mier Cru (Chablis). Broad and generous, this abv: 12.5% Price: $NA William Fèvre 2010 Champs Royaux has ample white fruits and attractive, balancing acids. 86 (Chablis). Balanced and brightly fruity, this is It already has richness and a pure fruit character, with William Fèvre 2010 Chablis. Rich and soft, laden with acidity and a ripe apple flavor. With its touch a firm, pear-skin-like structure and acidity on the fin- 87 this is full of pear and quince flavors that pack of vanilla, this is full and crisply delicious. Ready to ish. Age the for 3–4 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. a punch of acidity. The fruitiness is offset by a yeasty drink now. Henriot Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA character that adds notes of almond and spice. Henriot abv: NA Price: $23 Inc. —R.V. Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine Long-De­ abv: NA Price: $29 Domaine Gérard Duplessis 2010 Chablis. 87 paquit (Chablis). Rich, deliciously fruity and 85 This is light and crisp, with its acidity dominant. ripe, this combines warmth with a more mineral under- Château de Maligny 2010 Chablis. Soft It’s packed with lime and grapefruit flavors that lend a tow that cuts through the palate, creating a wine that is 86 and rounded, this is touched by a note of va- taut, nervy texture. Not for aging, this is refreshing now. refreshing and mouth-filling. It would be worth aging nilla that adds extra openness. With its apple and pear Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. for two years or more. European Wine Imports. —R.V. flavors, this is an attractive, fruity wine; it’s very forward, abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $20 but it shows a note of Chablis steel in the background. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —R.V. Domaine L. Chatelain 2010 Les Clos Bernard Defaix 2010 Chablis. Savory, juicy, abv: 12.5% Price: $24 85 Grand Cru (Chablis). This is light and fruity, 87 refreshing and textured, this has a crisp green- but it could use some more concentration. It has an at- fruit feel, and is full of bright fruit flavors. The finish Domaine Christophe Camu 2010 Char­ tractive apple flavor and a touch of citrus. For a grand continues to express the lively, tight character of the 86 donnay (Chablis). A caramel note combines cru, it is surprisingly ready to drink. Saranty Imports. wine. —R.V. with soft yellow-fruit and spice flavors. It’s rich and —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA rounded, with hints of toast and orange jelly. Planet abv: 13% Price: $NA Wine. —R.V. Château de Maligny 2010 Le Carré de abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Louis Jadot 2010 Chablis. Very minerally in 87 César (Chablis). Good concentration gives 85 character, this is taut and edgy, laced with acid- this wine a density to go with its fruitiness. It has a

WineMag.com | 45 ity, citrus fruit and a tangy character. It’s bright, crisp Very ready to drink. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. Soft and rich, with ripe fruit flavors, this is warm and and so fresh. Kobrand. —R.V. —R.V. opulent. Packed with notes of spice and toast, the ripe abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $20 peach flavor is layered into the fine, elegant struc- ture. Aging will make it even more delicious. Vineyard Pascal Bouchard 2010 Les Vieilles Vi­ Domaine Laroche 2011 Petit Chablis. Brands. —R.V. 85 gnes (Chablis). Intense acidity precedes the 85 Light and almost herbaceous, this is the sim- abv: NA Price: $72 ripe yellow fruits of this bright wine. It has a rich tex- plest Chablis in the Laroche portfolio. It has pure, clean ture that’s very minerally and steely, pairing with a vanil- white-fruit and red apple flavors, tautened by acidity, Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Perri­ la note from its wood aging. It’s a wine to be consumed ending with a crisp, green finish. Screwcap. Wilson 93 ères Premier Cru (Meursault). Nervy and young, over the next 2–3 years. Wine Symphony, Inc. Daniels Ltd. —R.V. textured, this is a wine under tension. It is crisp with —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA acidity, with lots of bright green-fruit and citrus flavors. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA This is complex and age worthy, bringing out the intense texture from the vineyard. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Se- Château de Béru 2010 Chablis. This is SAINT BRIS lection. —R.V. ripely tropical, with mango and spice notes that 84 La Chablisienne 2011 Saint Bris. Sauvi- abv: NA Price: $80 are edged with a more yeasty character, giving an unbal- gnon Blanc’s Burgundy enclave of Saint-Bris anced quality to this otherwise opulent wine. Acid Inc 84 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les produces a round version of the grape, leaning towards Selections. —R.V. Charmes Premier Cru (Meursault). Us- yellow fruit flavors, with herbaceous aromas. This is 92 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ing grapes sourced from the upper part of the Charmes fruity and can be consumed now. Blasons de Bourgogne Vineyard, this is rounded and full, showing the thin soil Inc. —R.V. Domaine George 2010 Vieilles Vignes abv: 12% Price: $NA through its concentration. Touched by toast and spice 84 (Chablis). Soft and open, this has ripe fruits notes, the yellow fruit flavors are rich, while the acidity that are lightly textured and gently attractive. The acid- and taut texture promise aging. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. ity that shows on the finish gives the wine definition, but MARSANNAY abv: NA Price: $78 its softness is likely to be the dominant character. Good Company Wines. —R.V. Louis Latour 2010 Marsannay. Firm, tense Joseph Drouhin 2010 Meursault. There is abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 86 and structured, this has weight and richness, 91 a touch of wood here, partnering with the wine’s with notes of quince and green plums, lending ripeness weight, minerality and crisp character. White fruit fla- Domaine L. Chatelain 2011 Chablis. A and acidity. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. vors of apple and pear lend further brightness. Dreyfus, 83 dirty nose spoils this otherwise attractive, easy, abv: NA Price: $25 Ashby & Co. —R.V. crisp Chablis. The palate has some notes of yeast and abv: 13% Price: $46 bright white fruit, with a citrusy finish. Saranty Imports. —R.V. CORTON GRANDS CRUS Louis Latour 2010 Meursault Blagny Pre­ abv: 12.5% Price: $21 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Corton- 91 mier Cru (Meursault). Big and fruity, this is Charlemagne. Powerful and concentrated, very lively, balancing butteriness with green-fruit acid- Domaine Verret et Fils 2010 Chablis. This 95 this has an intense expression of ripe tropical fruits. The ity. The wine is maturing quickly, its tension is fading is a combination of tropical fruits and tight acid- 83 wood shows strongly at this stage, although with this into rich, wood-flavored fruitiness. Louis Latour Inc. ity, making for an unbalanced wine that seems not to amount of richness, it has the weight and the power to —R.V. know its way. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. develop well over many years. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70 abv: NA Price: $23 abv: NA Price: $123 Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Domaine Faiveley 2010 Chablis. This is a Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Corton Ver­ 90 Charmes Premier Cru (Meursault). Soft yeasty wine that shows a bitter almond charac- 82 gennes. Big, rich and powerful, this uses and round, this is still coming around. Its fruit flavors ter. It has an unattractive hard edge. Frederick Wild- 94 grapes sourced from a small section of the Corton hill are muted by wood and spice, although it already shows man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. that’s close to Charlemagne. It has the ripe pineapple richness. It will be an opulent, full wine, with deliciously abv: 12.5% Price: $28 and apricot flavors to go with the acidity. With its enor- ripe fruits. Saranty Imports. —R.V. mous concentration, this is ready to age over at least 10 abv: 13% Price: $77 PETIT CHABLIS years. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $175 Henri de Villamont 2009 Les Clous Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin 2010 90 (Meursault). On the mineral side of Meur- 86 Petit Chablis. Crisp, clean and fruity, this has Louis Latour 2010 Corton-Charlemagne. sault, the has a very textured feel, with acidity to go with attractive acidity and lively fruit. It’s bright and citrus 94 For full review see page 5. the honey note. Finely balanced, warm and ripe, this flavored, with an aromatic finish. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $130 has a crisp, tight finish. Frank Johnson Selections.Edi - abv: NA Price: $NA tors’ Choice. —R.V. Henri de Villamont 2009 Corton-Char­ abv: NA Price: $55 La Chablisienne 2011 Pas si Petit (Petit 93 lemagne. This is grandiose, with ripe apricot 86 Chablis). This is delicate and crisply fruity. and peach flavors—even a note of mango—that are al- Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ Its acidity and citrus presence offer a fragrant charac- lied to the wood notes. As a contrast, there is fine acidity 88 ture Le Porusot Premier Cru (Meursault). ter that contrasts nicely with the more creamy texture. and elegance, with a lemon zest edge that gives struc- With its white fruit, lively acidity and delicious ripeness, Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. ture to this full, superripe, powerful effort. Frank John- this is very ready to drink. It’s an opulent, rounded wine, abv: 12.5% Price: $20 son Selections. —R.V. with hints of spice to go with its fruit character. Boisset abv: NA Price: $125 Family Estates. —R.V. Château de Maligny 2010 Petit Chablis. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 85 Light and fragrant, this emphasizes crisp apple and grapefruit flavors. It has a light, breezy character. MEURSAULT Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Nar­ 88 vaux (Meursault). This is round, while also Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 having a mineral edge. Apple and wood flavors power 93 Genevrières Premier Cru (Meursault).

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 through the crispness, along with a charming touch of firm acidity and intensely ripe fruit. Flavors of green honey. For short-term aging. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. fruit, citrus, toast and some smoke give complexity to CHASSAGNE- abv: NA Price: $56 this concentrated, full-bodied effort. Vineyard Brands. MONTRACHET —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Les Chen­ Louis Latour 2010 Meursault. This has abv: NA Price: $87 evottes Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montra­ some richness, with a yeasty character and a 93 87 chet). note of vanilla. Wood tones comes through slowly along Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les This is crisp, with citrus and red apple fruits that with pear and peach flavors. This is rich, hinting at but- 92 Referts Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrach­ are heightened by the taut structure. Nervy acidity adds ter as well as minerality. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. et). Opulent and very minerally, this is deeply flavored to the tense feel while judicious layers of wood warm abv: NA Price: $50 and concentrated, with a lively, crisp edge. It’s fruity the finish. For long-term aging. Terlato Wines Interna- Cellar Selection. while also having a textured finish that shows a struc- tional. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $94 Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Clos tured, age-worthy side. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. du Cromin (Meursault). This has herb and abv: NA Price: $84 86 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les wood aromas, leading to a palate that’s structured, with Caillerets Premier Cru (Chassagne-Mon­ a yeasty, toasty flavor and a green, herbal character. It is Jean-Claude Boisset 2009 Champ Gain 93 trachet). quite tight, and does need to age for at least two years. 92 Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Still A signature wine for Girardin, this is power- Saranty Imports. —R.V. showing its youthful fruity character, this concentrated ful and rich, with apricot, quince and green plum fruits abv: 13% Price: $56 wine is going to develop richness while always retain- that are layered within the taut texture. A toast note ing its elegance. The acidity and structured fruit lend rounds out this complex, ageworthy wine. Vineyard Cellar Selection. a strong sense of minerality, although it keeps its ripe- Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $72 MONTRACHET ness. Age for 3–4 years. Boisset Family Estates. Cellar Selection. —R.V. GRANDS CRUS Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 La Ro­ abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Bienve­ 92 manée Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montra­ 95 nue-Bâtard-Montrachet. There is such el- Joseph Drouhin 2010 Puligny-Montrach­ chet). Big and rounded, this will eventually develop egance on this concentrated wine, combining richness 92 et. This is rich and opulent while still preserv- into a ripe, complex wine. Spice and toast notes merge with intense structure. A blend of yellow fruit, crisp ap- ing its acidity and concentrated structure. It’s floral and with the yellow fruits and structured nervosity. Vineyard ple and lemon zest flavors surface on this opulent, bal- minerally, fragrant, round and crisp. Age for 3–4 years. Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $94 anced and structured effort. This is meant for long-term Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. aging. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $56 abv: NA Price: $256 Louis Latour 2010 Morgeot Premier Cru Louis Latour 2010 Les Folatières Premier 92 (Chassagne-Montrachet). This is a struc- Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Cheva­ 92 Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). This is a taut tured wine with rich, concentrated fruits. It has a strong 95 lier-Montrachet. This is a deeply rich, very wine, touched by yeast and warmed by ripe yellow fruit. mineral content along with a tense texture. Tropical impressive wine from a great white-wine vintage. It’s Flavors of melon and spice from the new wood give it fruit flavors come through on the rich, opulent finish. concentrated with the essence of pure Chardonnay. It an open feel. It’s ripe, already rounded and full bodied. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70 has tension along with a full texture. Age it for at least Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 10 years. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $90 abv: NA Price: $398 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Pu­ 91 Chaumes Premier Cru (Chassagne-Mon­ trachet). Louis Latour 2010 Montrachet. For full re- 90 ligny-Montrachet. Already a delicious wine, This is a very mineral driven wine—the ripe 94 view see page 5. this has ripe yellow fruits, with notes of wood and spice fruit is cut with acidity, green fruits and herbs. Textured abv: 14% Price: $430 adding complexity. The minerally acidity brings out the and ripe, its freshness is a counterpoint to the full fruit flavors of this ripe, structured effort. Saranty Imports. flavors. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $72 —R.V. PULIGNY-MONTRACHET abv: 13% Price: $NA Henri de Villamont 2009 Clos St-Jean Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Fo­ 91 Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). 94 latières Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrach­ Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Puligny-Montrachet). For full re- This is aromatic, with ripeness that balances the bright et). Perfumed, floral and ageworthy, this combines a 90 green and white fruits. Wood and spice notes are fol- taut texture with a toast note, showing great depth of view see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $56 lowed by a touch of lemon jelly and minerally acidity. flavor. The line of pure green and white fruit is very ap- It’s a wine that is still developing, waiting for the ripe parent. On the finish, bright acidity matches the great Louis Latour 2010 Puligny-Montrachet. fruit of the vintage to surface. Frank Johnson Selec- fruitiness. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80 90 This is complex and ripe but also mineraly and very structured. It offers many facets of the village: its abv: NA Price: $65 richness and its strong sense of terroir. Bright, clean and Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Pu­ Henri de Villamont 2009 Morgeot Pre­ celles Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). fragrant on the finish. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. 93 abv: NA Price: $60 91 mier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). This is Wood and ripe fruit flavors drive this explosively fruity firm, rich and closed, with the fruit showing potential wine. Its richness is balanced by the acidity from green Michel Picard 2009 Puligny-Montrachet. richness under the tight exterior. Packed with notes of apple and lime fruits. Spice from the wood aging adds wood, spice and a taut texture, this is a wine to enjoy piquancy, leads to a final burst of textured minerality. 90 Big and opulent, this has ripe tropical fruits, with a soft, toasty texture and full-bodied feel. With its several years down the road. Age for at least five years. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $99 richness, this is developing quickly and is already ready to drink. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $75 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Les Joseph Drouhin 2010 Chassagne-Mon­ 92 Combettes Premier Cru (Puligny-Mon­ 91 trachet. This is very structured and full, with a trachet). This is a floral wine that combines structure, powerful minerality, citrus and spice flavors, and a tight,

WineMag.com | 47 nervy character. It has the weight to age for 3–4 years. Jean-Claude Boisset 2009 Saint-Aubin. wood. It shows fine concentration and crisp, fresh citrus Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 88 On the nose, the aromas are of wood and fruit, on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $56 but the palate demonstrates the ripe fruit of the vin- abv: NA Price: $NA tage. It’s smooth and opulent, and the barrel influence Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Morgeot is in balance with the yellow and orange fruit flavors. Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2010 Clos 90 Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). This will be ready to drink in two years. Boisset Family 86 Philippe-le-Hardi (Bourgogne Hautes Full, soft and rich, this has flavors of ripe yellow fruit Estates. —R.V. Côtes de Beaune). Crisp and cool, this shows a va- and red apple, with a textured edge. The wine is round abv: 13% Price: $NA nilla flavor that softens the attractive tight, acidic fruit. and layered with delicious acidity. While its already to It’s light in texture, with a prominent tang of citrus. Sa- drink now, it will age for 3–4 years. Vineyard Brands. Michel Picard 2009 Le Charmois Premier ranty Imports. —R.V. —R.V. 88 Cru (Saint-Aubin). Ripe and full bodied, this abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: NA Price: $72 is a wine that reflects the softness of the vintage. Aged in wood, it has a rounded texture, with spice, apricot and Nuiton-Beaunoy 2010 Hautes Cotes de Henri de Villamont 2009 Chassagne- pineapple flavors, finishing with a touch of acidity. Pres- 86 Beaune. This is a light wine with tropical fruit 90 Montrachet. Minerally acidity dominates this tige Wine Group. —R.V. flavors. The acidity and notes of almond and white fruit otherwise rich wine. Lemon and apricot notes combine abv: 13.5% Price: $30 add to its rounded, ready-to-drink feel. Opici Wines. well together, while a touch of almond pushes through —R.V. to give extra complexity to this stylish, elegant wine. Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2009 En Ves­ abv: 13% Price: $16 Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. 87 vau (Saint-Aubin). Exhibiting the roundness abv: NA Price: $NA of the vintage, this is rich and soft. With notes of al- mond, yeast and yellow fruit, this is already maturing MERCUREY Louis Latour 2010 Chassagne-Montrach­ into a bold, open wine. Ready to drink. Saranty Imports. Domaine Faiveley 2010 Clos Rochette et. Melon, mango and tropical fruit notes are 89 —R.V. (Mercurey). The toast character lends a firm all found on this soft, open wine. It is full and round, 91 abv: 13% Price: $35 structure to this solid, rich wine. A spice note pairs well with an attractive, simple fruitiness, and acidity that cuts with the white plum and apricot fruit, and there is a through on the finish. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. sense that this needs to age for several years in order to abv: NA Price: $80 OTHER CÔTE DE bring out its richness and full potential. Frederick Wild- BEAUNE WINES man & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Vincent Prunier 2010 Chassagne-Mon­ abv: 13% Price: $30 89 trachet. This is taut and minerally, with intense Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Clos des Mouches Premier Cru (Beaune). This is acidity. The structure comes from tangy notes of lem- 92 Domaines Devillard 2010 Château de on zest and peach skin. There is some discreet wood a very taut wine from the poorest soil in the Clos des Chamirey (Mercurey). With its straw col- aging, but it remains crisp and refreshing. Saranty Im- Mouches Vineyard. This tastes of citrus fruit, with a 91 or and wood aging aromas, this is rich, bearing yellow ports. —R.V. powerful, spicy, complex finish that promises good ag- peach and pear fruits, along with a toast note and juicy abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ing. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. acidity. It’s already impressive but should drink well for —R.V. another three years at least. Deutsch Family Wine & Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ abv: NA Price: $112 Spirits. —R.V. ture Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne- 88 abv: 13% Price: $35 Montrachet). The ripe yellow fruits and wood aging Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Les Cara­ deux Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergeless­ work together in this rich, full-bodied effort. The acidity 92 Michel Picard 2009 Clos Paradis Premier lends a refreshing relief as the wine rolls around on the es). Structured and fruity, this has plenty of minerality Cru (Mercurey). Rich, ripe and round, this is palate. Drink in a year. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. to pair with the crisp citrus flavor. The wood influence 89 full of yellow fruit, with only light acidity. It is soft and abv: 13.5% Price: $NA gives it extra depth, while the crispness is preserved by open, with a full, smooth character, showing the influ- a final steely thrust. This structured wine should age for ence from having been wood aged. It’s worth aging for four years or more Terlato Wines International. Cellar 2–3 years. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. SAINT-AUBIN Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 NA $53 Jean-Claude Boisset 2009 En Remilly abv: Price: Premier Cru (Saint-Aubin). Concentrated Domaine Faiveley 2010 Mercurey. Toast 91 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Hauts Marcon­ and rich, with some wood influence, this has ripe yellow and caramel aromas set the scene for this ripe, nets Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). 88 fruits that are balanced with an intense streak of acidity, 89 smooth wine. It has weight and richness, with a vanilla This is wood laden, with sweet fruit that compensates lending a sense of tension. It’s very full, round and al- flavor that meshes with the yellow fruit. With all of its for the toastiness. The oak element should integrate ready a delight to drink. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. opulence, the acidity is lost somewhere, meaning the well in the next 2–3 years, making for a wine that’s soft abv: 13.5% Price: $NA wine is ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, and sweetly fruity, with smoky acidity. Terlato Wines In- Ltd. —R.V. ternational. —R.V. Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Murger abv: 13% Price: $NA NA $39 89 des Dents de Chien Premier Cru (Saint- abv: Price: Aubin). Very minerally in character, this wine has only Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2010 Mercu­ Henri de Villamont 2009 Les Hautés a touch of wood, showing attractive acidity, citrus fruits rey. Soft, full and very rounded, this has yel- (Auxey-Duresses). This demonstrates a good 87 and a tight, nervy texture. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 89 low fruit flavors that are ripe and open, with its acidity balance between minerality and ripe pineapple and abv: 13% Price: $45 emerging slowly. The finish is more focused and fresh. apricot fruits. With a twist of lemon and an herb accent, Saranty Imports. —R.V. it has both crispness and richness. Frank Johnson Selec- Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2010 En Ves­ abv: 13% Price: $30 vau (Saint-Aubin). This is an attractive, fruity tions. —R.V. 88 abv: NA Price: $40 wine, with citrus and creamed apple flavors. It is light Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2009 Mercu­ and fragrant, with apricots and white fruits that pair rey. Soft and superripe, this has very round Joseph Drouhin 2010 Saint-Romain. This 87 with the crisp finish. Saranty Imports. —R.V. fruit, and the acidity gives it an attractive texture. It is is ripe, structured and fragrant, with a touch of abv: 13% Price: $35 89

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 broad and rich, showing an open character. This is cer- tery, this is full of ripe tropical fruits and bright, citrusy Château de Fuissé 2010 Tête de Cru tainly ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. acidity. Ready to drink. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir- 90 (Pouilly-Fuissé). This is full of rich, ripe yel- abv: 13% Price: $30 its. —R.V. low and white fruits, layering the fruitiness with a wood abv: NA Price: $NA and spice character. The combination creates a com- plex, minerally wine that needs to age over at least 4–5 MONTAGNY Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine Saint- years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Martin (Saint-Véran). Full, ripe and creamy, Domaine Faiveley 2010 Montagny. In- 86 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 this rolls mellifluously around the palate. Pear and plum tense, rich and creamy, this effortlessly balances 89 flavors dominate along with the crisp edge of lime. The Château Vitalis 2010 (Pouilly-Fuissé). the wood influence with the apricot and white peach finish is just as rich and smooth. Deutsch Family Wine Soft, fruity and ripe, this is deliciously flavored flavors. It demonstrates the opulence of the year while 90 & Spirits. —R.V. with pear and melon notes. It opens slowly to reveal its remaining structured. Developing well, this is almost abv: NA Price: $NA wood aging and a hint of spice. Still developing, this ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. needs 2–3 years of aging. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. Georges Duboeuf 2011 Saint-Véran. This abv: 13% Price: $26 —R.V. 85 is fragrant and lighthearted, with citrusy acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Henri de Villamont 2009 Premier Cru that laces through the easy, bright green-apple texture. It’s crisp, with a floral finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Henri de Villamont 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé. (Montagny). Soft and ripe, this has the rich- 88 Spirits. —R.V. While this shows the ripeness of the vintage, it ness of ripe apples and pears, but is lightened with 89 abv: NA Price: $NA remains very minerally in style, with a lemony crispness bright acidity. There’s a great tang of lemon to lift the to match with its white fruit flavor, tight texture and taut wine into crispness while remaining richly textured. finish. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. POUILLY-FUISSÉ abv: NA Price: $35 abv: NA Price: $32 Château de Fuissé 2010 Le Clos (Pouil­ Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine Be­ Vignerons de Buxy 2009 Les Chaniots ly-Fuissé). One of a range of single-vineyard 93 ranger (Pouilly-Fuissé). Opulent and ripe, Premier Cru (Montagny). Rich and full, the wines from Château de Fuissé, this is powerful and 88 88 full bodied and rich, this has notes of toast and spice as wood and yellow fruit flavors are well integrated with complex. It’s intense, with white fruit flavors that are well as apricot and pear flavors. With its balanced char- the ripe acidity. Generous as well as elegant, it’s a wine laced with concentrated, wood-influenced notes. It has acter, it can be consumed now, but it will also age for to drink now. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. an opulent, generous feel, while remaining structured. another year. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. Vignerons de Buxy 2010 Buissonnier abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine du Bois (Montagny). Soft and rounded, this is a ripe, 87 Rosier (Pouilly-Fuissé). Full bodied and full-bodied wine. It has pear and peach fruits, laced Château de Fuissé 2010 Les Brûlés 88 very round in character, this has rich pineapple and with lime-like acidity and notes of almond and yeast. (Pouilly-Fuissé). This is powerful, ripe and 93 white fruits that are cut with grapefruit-like acidity. A With its bright, crisp finish, it’s a wine to age over the creamily smooth, bearing yellow fruits that dominate touch of spice surfaces from having been wood aged. next two years. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V. the wood aging. It’s a rich medley of apricot and yellow This could age for 2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & abv: 13% Price: $21 peach flavors, laced with citrusy acidity. Full, complex Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. and generous, this is worth aging for over four years. abv: NA Price: $NA Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. OTHER CÔTE abv: 13.5% Price: $70 CHALONNAISE WINES Louis Latour 2010 Pouilly-Fuissé. Ripe Château de Fuissé 2010 Vieilles Vignes 88 and fruity, this has a crisp line of acidity and a minerally character. It dances on the palate with its ap- Henri de Villamont 2009 Rully. Honeyed in (Pouilly-Fuissé). Ripe and wood aged, this 93 ple and citrus flavors. Already delicious to drink. Louis 88 character, this has notes of toast, sweet tropical is rich with ginger and tropical fruit flavors. Dense and Latour Inc. —R.V. fruit and lemon, with light acidity. The wine feels warm, concentrated, it is a full-in-the-mouth wine—power- abv: NA Price: $25 ripe, open and drinkable now. Frank Johnson Selec- ful and very ageworthy. Give this five years. Frederick tions. —R.V. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Nicolas Potel 2010 Pouilly-Fuissé. Taut abv: NA Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $70 88 and mineral driven, this is full in the mouth, Vignerons de Buxy 2010 Buissonnier Château de Fuissé 2010 Les Combettes with ripe apricot and red apple fruits. Acidity lines the edges of the wine, giving it freshness while also being 85 (Côte Chalonnaise). Nervy and racy, this has (Pouilly-Fuissé). Rich and ultraripe, this is 92 smoothed out by a toast note. It could age for another crisp acidity and a lively orange-zest texture. It’s fruity, full of yellow fruit, melon and pineapple flavors. Con- two years. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —R.V. with upfront apple and grapefruit flavors, showing just a trasting with this fruitiness are notes of dense wood and abv: 13% Price: $NA touch of a minerally character in the background. Ruby spice. It has an elegant structure, with a crisp, citrusy Wines Inc. —R.V. finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Georges Duboeuf 2010 Clos Reyssie abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $70 87 (Pouilly-Fuissé). With toasty wood-aging fla- Château Vitalis 2010 Vieilles Vignes vors, this is a rich, spicy wine. It has a note of nutmeg to balance the citrus- and apricot-like acidity and the ripe SAINT-VÉRAN (Pouilly-Fuissé). This impressive wood-aged 91 depth of flavor. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. wine shows both the rich side of Pouilly Fuissé and its Joseph Drouhin 2010 Saint-Véran. Warm abv: NA Price: $NA 88 and ripe, this has fine honey and yellow fruit fla- taut, minerally character. It is full and rich, yet always expressing a nervy, zingy edge. Age for at least three vors. It has well-integrated acidity, with a touch of apple Georges Duboeuf 2009 Sélection (Pouil­ years. David Milligan Selections. Cellar Selection. that lends a crisp finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. ly-Fuissé). Ripe and wood aged, full bodied —R.V. 87 abv: 13% Price: $18 and rounded, this is now mature. Its broad features are abv: 13.5% Price: $30 tempered by a shot of minerality and a steel note that Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine de la 86 Batie (Saint-Véran). Soft, smooth and but-

WineMag.com | 49 add a crisp texture to the tropical fruits. Deutsch Family Chardonnay some structure. Terlato Wines Internation- Bzikot Père et Fils 2010 Chardonnay Wine & Spirits. —R.V. al. —R.V. 87 (Bourgogne). This is ripe and finely balanced, abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $22 with its wood-aging character showing well with the yel- low fruit flavor. It has weight and a fine sheen of bright- Vincent 2010 Marie-Antoinette (Pouilly- Château Vitalis 2010 Mâcon-Fuissé. ness, while the finish shows a crisper side. Vinifrance. 87 Fuissé). From the Vincent family of Château 87 Peach and pear flavors give a rich feel to this —R.V. de Fuissé, this is a ripe wine, with its green plum and warm wine. It has vanilla and cream flavors, with a cit- abv: NA Price: $23 nectarine fruits giving it roundness. At the same time, rus character that cuts through the ripeness on the fin- there is a bright, attractive edge of crispness, with a cit- ish. Ready to drink. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Le Bourgogne rusy finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 87 Blanc (Bourgogne). Fruity, ripe and deli- abv: 13% Price: $25 cious flavors of apples and pears are linked by a fine Louis Latour 2010 Pouilly -Vinzelles. streak of acidity. This has a lively touch along with a Georges Duboeuf 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé. 87 Warm and ripe, this has yellow fruits that con- white peach richness on the finish. Terlato Wines In- 85 The softest of the Pouilly Fuissés produced by trast with the freshness of crisp apples. There is a light ternational. —R.V. Duboeuf, this is a smooth, creamy and toasty wine. A touch of minerality, although the essence of the wine is abv: NA Price: $22 peach note and warm, ripe fruits dominate. Very ready its fruitiness. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. to drink. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22 Domaine Bernard Millot 2010 Chardon­ abv: NA Price: $NA 87 nay (Bourgogne). Bright grapefruit and lime Georges Duboeuf 2010 Mâcon Chaintré. flavors are made round with a note of creamed apple. 84 Soft and round, this has a gentle white fruit fla- This is a delicious, full-flavored wine that’s finely bal- MÂCON-VILLAGES vor and a hint of spice. The acidity is open and very easy, anced and crisp on the finish. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. finishing with a fragrant finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Nicolas Potel 2010 Mâcon -Villages. This abv: NA Price: $NA Spirits. —R.V. is a smooth and apple-fruited wine, with acidity 87 abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine Faiveley 2010 Chardonnay that’s tempered by a soft texture and a touch of toast. It’s (Bourgogne). Minerally in character, this is balanced, lightly crisp and ready to drink. Wines Unlim- 87 nervy, and tight. With its flavors of green apple, lime ited, Inc. —R.V. BOURGOGNE abv: 12.5% Price: $NA and a hint of spice, this is crisp and food friendly, with André Guichot 2010 Les Dressolles a refreshing, bright finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Georges Duboeuf 2010 Domaine Chen­ 88 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is a rich Ltd. —R.V. 86 evières (Mâcon-Villages). Taut and tex- wine that balances attractive white and yellow fruits abv: 13% Price: $22 tured, yet ripe and soft, this has a nectarine flavor that’s with intense citrusy acidity. The result is a structured, Henri de Villamont 2009 Prestige Char­ balanced by a note of fresh lime. The finish is easy, round, tangy Chardonnay that is likely to smooth out donnay (Bourgogne). Round and rich, this nervy and zingy. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. further as it develops over the next 2–3 years. Marsalle/ 87 has delicious acidity and touches of tropical fruits. It’s abv: NA Price: $NA Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ripe and full bodied, with an attractive hint of wood. Georges Duboeuf 2010 Mâcon -Villages. Frank Johnson Selections. —R.V. 84 With a light structure and some minerality, this Henri de Villamont 2009 Millénaire Char­ abv: NA Price: $18 is an attractive, textured wine. Flavors of apples, citrus donnay (Bourgogne). This is a dominated 88 Maison Champy 2010 Chardonnay fruits and a note of caramel pair with its zesty character by new wood, but it still retains fragrant, fresh fruit. A (Bourgogne). This is well balanced, with fruit that lends an attractive finishing bite. Deutsch Family touch of lemon pairs with the toast note, bearing re- 87 and vanilla flavors. It has a rich texture of yellow fruit, Wine & Spirits. —R.V. freshing acidity on the finish. Frank Johnson Selections. followed by fragrant acidity and a warm, rounded finish. abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. abv: NA Price: $26 Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. Georges Duboeuf 2011 Mâcon -Villages. abv: 13% Price: $NA This is very soft and lacking in definition, with a Joseph Drouhin 2010 La Forêt Chardon­ 83 Bouchard Pere & Fils 2010 La Vignée light texture. However, it does have a crisp apple flavor nay (Bourgogne). Initially this is round, ripe 88 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Ripe, soft and and a line of acidity that gives freshness. Deutsch Fam- and floral, with a touch of honey, but then the acidity 86 round, this is an accessible wine, with easy yellow-fruit ily Wine & Spirits. —R.V. comes through with a touch of minerality. Screwcap. flavors that lend a sweetly juicy character. The acidity abv: NA Price: $NA Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13 just cuts through the warm feel to give the finish some lift. —R.V. OTHER MÂCONNAIS Antoine et Rachel Olivier 2010 Chardon­ abv: NA Price: $NA nay (Bourgogne). A delicious, wood-aged WINES 87 Domaine Hubert Lamy 2010 Les Chataig­ wine that balances its toast and vanilla flavors with crisp niées Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is Château Vitalis 2010 (Mâcon-Fuissé). acidity, and notes of citrus and pear. It’s a bright, taut, 86 laden with wood, spiced with a toast note that domi- 89 Underneath the austere exterior, there’s a fruity nervy offering with a strong minerally texture. Citadel nates this otherwise crisp, nervy wine. The acidity is re- character, with layers of citrus, kiwi and white peach fla- Trading. —R.V. vors, along with the richness from having been aged in abv: 13% Price: $NA freshing; the citrus note creates a lively streak of fresh- wood. Cellar this taut, minerally and structured wine for ness. This needs a few months for the wood infuence to 2–3 years. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. Bouchard Pere & Fils 2010 Réserve soften. Le Serbet. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 87 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Ripe and full abv: 12.7% Price: $NA bodied, this is packed with tasty fruits. Notes of pear, Domaine Jean Chartron 2010 Chardon­ Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Viré-Clessé. apricot and white peach mingle easily together, creating nay (Bourgogne). Ripe and round, this has 88 A specialty of Chanson, this is lovely and fruity, a forward, wine with the right depth of flavor. Henriot 86 attractive, rich fruit flavors of apple and apricot, along with white fruit freshness and a hint of honey. The bal- Inc. —R.V. ance comes from the more nervous acidity, lending this abv: NA Price: $20 with a fine streak of juiciness and acidity that provides a fragrant finish. Winebow. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Pierre André 2010 Réserve Chardonnay Jean-Claude Boisset 2010 Chardonnay Pierre Morey 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­ 86 (Bourgogne). Soft and rounded, this has an 84 (Bourgogne). Soft and ripe, this is a fruity 82 gogne). While the initial impression is fruity, attractive fresh-fruit character. It’s warm with a yellow wine with apple and pear flavors that are lightly en- the wine then shows almond and spice characters. The fruit flavor; a crisp touch of grapefruit tempers the rich- hanced by the juicy, refreshing acidity. The finish is texture, is thin and light, like apple juice with taut acid- ness. Kinson The Future of Wine. —R.V. lively and fragrant. Screwcap. Boisset Family Estates. ity. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Vincent 2010 JJ Bourgogne Blanc (Bour­ Domaine Luquet 2010 Chardonnay 86 gogne). This is fruity, with an apple flavor L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Tiserny Chardon­ 81 (Bourgogne). This is a yeasty wine, with the that’s lifted by a lemon zest edge. It’s warm with a rich, 84 nay (Bourgogne). While the creamy fruit is fruit less evident. It has acidity and a touch of apple, minerally tautness; a caramel note comes through on attractive, this is a light wine, with a touch of pear and although a bitter edge cuts into the rounded texture. In- the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. apple flavors. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. ternational Wines Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $NA

Albert Bichot 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­ Michel Picard 2009 Chardonnay (Bour­ Manuel Seguin 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­ 85 gogne). Fruity and attractively wood aged, 84 gogne). Fresh and fruity, this has a ripe apricot 81 gogne). This is bitter, with hints of sulfur, this is soft and round, with a bright edge of acidity that character that contrasts the mineral acidity and bright yeast and almond. It’s soft in texture and lacking fruit. brings out the taut, refreshing finish. European Wine fruit character. The wine dances lightly and is now ready Winebow. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. to drink. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $18

Domaine Laroche 2011 Chardonnay Domaine Patrick Javillier 2010 Cuvée CRÉMANT DE 85 (Bourgogne). Laroche sources grapes from 83 Oligocene Chardonnay (Bourgogne). BOURGOGNE outside the Chablis area to make this elegant, smooth, Open and simple, this has a light touch of citrus fruit, caramel- and peach-flavored wine. A touch of wood with an edge of wood in the background. It is bright and Bailly-Lapierre 2007 Vive-la-Joie Brut lends a note of spice and adds to the round texture. ready to drink. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. 91 (Crémant de Bourgogne). The minerality is Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA a reminder that the grapes come from an area near Cha- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA blis. It has a tangy, zingy character, with a nervy edge Louis Jadot 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­ that promises aging, but it also provides fruity, apple- Domaine Patrick Javillier 2010 Cuvée 83 gogne). This is a gentle wine that’s textured driven pleasure now. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. 85 des Forges Chardonnay (Bourgogne). with acidity, offering yellow and white fruits and some abv: 12.5% Price: $30 While this is crisp and fresh, it also has an attractive, toast and spice flavors. It is round and soft, finishing round vanilla flavor that provides a smooth, creamy tex- with a tight edge of acidity. Kobrand. —R.V. Bailly-Lapierre NV Brut Pinot Noir (Cré­ ture. It’s refreshing with apple and pear flavors, with ap- abv: NA Price: $NA 90 mant de Bourgogne). This is deliciously fra- pealing acidity on the finish. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. grant, with harmonious fruit and acidity. It has a full, abv: 13% Price: $NA Lupé-Cholet 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­ rich character that offers currant and citrus flavors. Wil- 83 gogne). Fruity, ripe and round, this is simple liam Harrison Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Maison Jessiaume 2010 Chardonnay Chardonnay that gives pleasure from its warm texture abv: 12% Price: $24 85 (Bourgogne). Tropical fruit and new wood fla- and softness. The apple flavor leads to a gentle finish. vors thread this opulent, seductive Chardonnay. It has Europvin. —R.V. Bailly-Lapierre 2009 Egarade Brut (Cré­ surface glamor, with its flavors of ripe mango, peach and abv: 13% Price: $15 90 mant de Bourgogne). This is yeasty, bearing toast. Under the surface, the flavors are simple, softly crisp flavors of pear and green apple, with a taut lem- textured. USA Wine West. —R.V. Pierre André 2010 Octavie Crémieux on-zest texture and a firm edge of minerality. It needs abv: 13% Price: $NA 83 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Light and sim- at least three years in bottle. Wine Warehouse Imports. ple, this is all about fruit and freshness. There is a hint —R.V. Vignerons de Buxy 2011 Côtes d’Auxerre of citrus, and the acidity shows well on the finish. More abv: 12% Price: $24 85 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Using grapes of an aperitif style. LVC Las Vegas Inc. —R.V. sourced from vineyards just outside of the Chablis re- abv: 12.6% Price: $NA Bailly-Lapierre 2007 Vive-la-Joie Rosé gion, this soft and white-fruited wine is attractive and 90 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). Deliciously fragrant. A touch of vanilla adds another dimension, Sylvain Dussort 2010 Cuvée des Ormes crisp, this is a light and lively blend of Chardonnay and lending a ripe feel. Ready to drink. Blasons de Bour- 83 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Forward and Pinot Noir. With its raspberry and red apple flavors, it gogne Inc. —R.V. fruity, this allies fresh, upfront apple and citrus fruits exudes fruitiness, with an attractively soft finish. Wil- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA with acidity. Light, bright and crisp, it offers pleasurable liam Harrison Imports. —R.V. drinkability. Garnet New York. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 André Guichot 2010 Chardonnay (Bour­ abv: NA Price: $NA 84 gogne). Soft and fruity, this has apple and cit- rus flavors, with a touch of vanilla. It is light, fragrant Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils 2010 ROSÉ and crisp; ready to drink. Marsalle/Stoler Company. 82 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). While the wine Manuel Olivier 2009 Rosé (Hautes Côtes —R.V. is clean and refreshing, its texture lacks definition. It has 84 de Nuits). Light and very fruity, this has crisp abv: 12.5% Price: $NA a soft, bright finish. The Sorting Table. —R.V. raspberry and red currant flavors, with a lively, acid-driv- abv: NA Price: $NA en texture. It is breezy, refreshing and ready to drink. Domaine d’Ardhuy 2010 Chardonnay Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. Maison Champy 2010 Signature Char­ 84 (Bourgogne). Ripe tropical fruits dominate abv: 12.5% Price: $NA this smooth wine, creating a warm, almost New World 82 donnay (Bourgogne). Nutmeg and cinna- appeal. There is a toast note that balances the rich fruiti- mon aromas cover the fruit, leaving only the acidity to ness. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. prove that there is some fruitiness in this wine. Verity abv: NA Price: $NA Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 51 packed with tannins and solid dark fruits. It’s powerful red fruit—its structure and firm tannins coming out RED BURGUNDY with a dark plum flavor and an impressive density of tex- slowly. This village wine demonstrates the richness of ture. Give it at least 7–10 years. Vineyard Brands. Cel- the appellation, showing a fine balance between its ripe CHAMBERTIN GRANDS lar Selection. —R.V. fruit and its smoky, dry, tannic core. Frederick Wildman CRUS abv: NA Price: $128 & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $70 Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 Chambertin Louis Latour 2010 Chambertin. Concen- 96 Clos de Bèze. Despite its power, this is so el- 92 trated, dense and powerful, this has all the Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Gevrey-Cham­ egant, showing tannins, minerality and generous flavors structure of a Chambertin. As a contrast, the juicy acid- 89 bertin. Concentrated and complex, this has of black fruits, dark chocolate and spices. The smooth ity cuts through the texture, luring out black fruits that structure and acidity, with a black cherry flavor. It’s a and rich surface belies the inner taut texture, show- balance the solid core of tannins. It needs to age for at ripe, powerful wine that could become more generous ing how the wine will need many years to finally come least seven years. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. as it ages. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. round. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $260 abv: NA Price: $72 abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Vieilles Vignes Domaine Faiveley 2010 Mazis-Cham­ GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 88 (Gevrey-Chambertin). This is concentrated, bertin. Rich, yet always elegant, this has a rasp- 95 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze 2010 Lavaut with black plum and damson flavors that are balanced berry flavor and terrific acidity that creates tension, con- Saint-Jacques Premier Cru (Gevrey- by firm, dense tannins. It has a dry, solid core, with a trasting with the opulent fruit. While it’s structured, it 93 more perfumed character that merges with the acidity. Chambertin). Structured, dense and packed with will soften and round out over the next five years. Fred- Saranty Imports. —R.V. black fruits, this is complex wine. Yet with all of its ripe- erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $55 abv: 13.5% Price: $290 ness, it offers a great line of freshness and a smoky wood flavor, with blackberry-like acidity on the finish. Age for Nuiton-Beaunoy 2009 Gevrey-Cham­ five years or more. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Se- Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 Chapelle- bertin. This is a big and full-bodied wine, with lection. —R.V. 88 Chambertin. Using grapes sourced from its tannins merging with notes of red plum fruit and 95 abv: NA Price: $NA 80-year-old vines, this is a rich, powerful wine, with spicy wood. With a generous feel, it also has a solid, juicy, generous black fruits. The big tannins are right Domaine Faiveley 2010 Les Cazetiers powerful structure that offers the possibility of aging. upfront, lending a solid, dense texture. Gentle black —R.V. Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). This fruits and acidity emerge on the finish. Martine’s Wines. 92 abv: 13% Price: $59 is rich, showing the full-bodied character of a Gevrey- —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Chambertin Premier Cru. It has a sense of gravity and structure, with a flavor of red-plum jelly. Solid and MOREY-SAINT-DENIS Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 Charmes- chunky, this already expresses its fruit, although it does Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Les Millandes Chambertin. This is big, muscular and very need at least six years to mature. Frederick Wildman & 95 Premier Cru (Morey-Saint-Denis). De- opulent, with its density lying over its minerality. Fla- Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 91 liciously perfumed, this shows some of the structure vors of black stone fruits and red berries have the inten- abv: 13% Price: $110 of the vintage, along with generous raspberry and red sity of a powerful, age-worthy wine. Martine’s Wines. Jean-Claude Boisset 2009 Lavaut Saint- cherry flavors. It is rich and solid, and its open char- —R.V. Jacques Premier Cru (Gevrey-Cham­ abv: NA Price: $NA 92 acter has just the right edge of dense tannins. Already bertin). While it has all the structure of Gevrey-Cham- approachable, but it’s likely to age over several years. Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 Mazoyères- bertin, it also has the richness of the vintage. This strikes Saranty Imports. —R.V. 95 Chambertin. The small Mazoyères-Cham- a healthy balance between the two, creating a powerful abv: 13% Price: $94 bertin Grand Cru creates structured wines with plenty wine that’s full of black fruits and sweet tannins, with a Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 La Rue de of texture and tannins. This is brooding, firm and very firm, dry core. Age for 5–6 years. Boisset Family Es- Vergy (Morey-Saint-Denis). Full of very concentrated, with its fruit set way behind the dark tan- tates. —R.V. 89 ripe fruit, this is soft and smooth at the beginning, be- nins and spice note. It will take at least 10 years to start abv: 13% Price: $NA fore showing a firmer structure. It has a plum flavor to mature. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Les Champon­ abv: NA Price: $NA and ripe acidity. With its superrichness and roundness, 91 nets Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). this is likely to be ready to drink soon. Martine’s Wines. Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Chambertin While this is currently firm and closed, it promises fine —R.V. 94 Clos de Bèze. Big and showy, with an ripe, things to come. Weight and richness combine with a sol- abv: NA Price: $NA opulent feel, this is all about dark fruits and firm tan- id core of tannins. The intense, refreshing acidity is a nins. Flavors of black cherries and plums are balanced counterpoint to the ripe black-plum flavor. With all of by the acidity, all rolled together into a structure that’s this concentration, this should age for over 5–6 years. CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY powerful and seriously age-worthy. Terlato Wines Inter- Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 La Combe national. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $94 94 d’Orveau Cuvée Ultra Premier Cru abv: NA Price: $248 (Chambolle-Musigny). Christophe Perrot-Minot Domaine Drouhin-Laroze 2010 Gevrey- makes this wine from a parcel of the vineyard that is Chambertin. There is a ripe, jammy straw- Domaine Drouhin-Laroze 2010 Cham­ 90 declassified grand cru. It’s opulent and generous, yet berry feel to this generous, warm-hearted wine. The 94 bertin Clos de Bèze. Powerful while still it’s also minerally and fresh. The sumptuous Chambolle structure is elegant, showcasing its fruits as much as its fruity, this shows acidity and notes of ripe black cherry feel is still to come as the wine rounds out and loses its tannins, yet leaving the impression of a Pinot Noir that and spice. Very structured and solid, this complete, tan- youthful tannins. Age for at least seven years. Martine’s has hidden power. Age this for 3–4 years. Fruit of the nin-packed wine is definitely for long-term aging. Fruit Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Jean-Claude Boisset 2009 Les Charmes Joseph Faiveley 2010 Gevrey-Cham­ Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Charmes- Premier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). This is bertin. Light colored and fruity, this is all about 92 94 Chambertin. Big and concentrated, this is 90 rich, complex and full of ripe fruit. A firm structure un-

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 derlies the richness, lending concentration and density. Jean-Claude Boisset 2009 Echézeaux. In Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des The fruit is still reticent and will show more generously 93 this vintage, Echézeaux reveals an extra edge 92 Perdrix Les 8 Ouvrées Aux Perdrix Pre­ in another year. Age for five years. Boisset Family Es- of really ripe, full fruits. They are balanced by the firm mier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). While wood aromas tates. Cellar Selection. —R.V. wood- and spice-laden structure, with the tannins and are prominent now, this ultimately showcase the ripe abv: 13% Price: $NA intense acids adding the final touches. Age this over 7–8 red fruits that lie underneath. It has a solid core of tan- years. Boisset Family Estates. Cellar Selection. —R.V. nins, which is balanced by the juicy fruit. Age for 6–7 Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 Vieilles Vi­ abv: 13.5% Price: $NA years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selec- 91 gnes (Chambolle-Musigny). Using grapes tion. —R.V. sourced from 102-year-old vines, this is superripe and abv: 13% Price: $120 concentrated. Yet despite its richness, it has tight acid- VOSNE-ROMANÉE ity that meshes with plum and damson fruits. Age for Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 Les Beaux- at least five years. Martine’s Wines. Editors’ Choice. Perdrix Aux Perdrix Premier Cru (Nuits- Monts Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée). A 91 —R.V. 93 St.-Georges). With its intense red fruits and acidity, minerally textured wine, this layers tannins and a dark, abv: NA Price: $NA this initially seems so fruity. Slowly the powerful struc- brooding character over the ripe black fruits. It has con- ture comes into play, yielding a concentrated, cellar- siderable power and richness, with intensity of fruit and Jean-Claude Boisset 2009 Les Char­ worthy wine. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar spice, and a sweet, almost soft finish. Martine’s Wines. dannes (Chambolle-Musigny). The tannins Selection. —R.V. 91 —R.V. are already finely integrated into the rich, ripe fruit. It abv: 13% Price: $98 abv: NA Price: $NA has a smoky character along with a note of wood spice, and the black plum fruit serves as a juicy underlay. Giv- Domaine Faiveley 2010 Nuits-St.-Georg­ Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 Champs Per­ en its weight and structure, this should for age five years es. This is certainly structured, with firm and drix (Vosne-Romanée). This demonstrates 90 at least. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. 92 chunky tannins dominating the the ripe fruit. Acidity the power, concentration and firm structure that comes abv: 13% Price: $NA cuts through the palate, lending a lively, juicy sensation. from the vintage. The fruit is rich and powered by opu- As the wine ages over the next four years, it will develop lent black fruits, with a dark, intensely textured finish. Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Chambolle- richness to go with its structure. Frederick Wildman & Martine’s Wines. —R.V. Musigny. Vinified in the soft, opulent style of 89 abv: NA Price: $NA Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Chambolle, this is ripe and round. With its dry edge and abv: 13% Price: $65 rich fruit, the structure of the apparent is apparent. The Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des acidity cuts through to give a juicy element. Already de- Domaine A. Machard de Gramont 2010 Perdrix (Vosne-Romanée). This demon- licious to drink, but it’s worth aging over 2–3 years. Sa- 91 Les Damodes Premier Cru (Nuits-St.- strates the complexity of firm and concentrated Vosne- 89 ranty Imports. —R.V. Georges). For a Premier Cru, this is surprisingly open Romanée, with a generous, fruity character. It shows abv: 13% Price: $68 and ready. It has a light structure, offering delicious, for- its structure first, followed by beautiful red fruits. Age ward, juicy fruit that has been rounded out by wood ag- for 4–5 years or more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir- Louis Latour 2010 Chambolle-Musigny. ing. With its ripe character, it will be ready to drink in a its. —R.V. Firm from the start, the wine then shows both 89 abv: 13% Price: $75 year. Saranty Imports. —R.V. ripe red-berry fruit and a dense structure. There’s an abv: 13.5% Price: $78 herbal edge that will soften in the next 2–3 years, bring- Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot 2010 ing out the richness of Chambolle. Louis Latour Inc. Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Vosne-Romanée. Firm and structured, this —R.V. 86 Perdrix (Nuits-St.-Georges). Big, solid and has strong tannins set over smoky fruit. It has concen- 89 abv: NA Price: $80 chunky, this is packed with tannins and dark plum fruit. tration, although the wood flavor has an old-wood feel, It has a rich character, and its acidity is layered with the seeming just a touch dirty. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $63 concentrated fruit. It needs to age for over several years. ECHÉZEAUX Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Domaine Faiveley 2010 Echézeaux. Very abv: 13% Price: $65 structured and firm, this has the weight, rich- NUITS-ST.-GEORGES 95 Jean-Claude Boisset 2009 Les Charbon­ ness and power that is typical of Echézeaux. It’s the ten- Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 La nières (Nuits-St.-Georges). This is finely sion between the tannins and the ripe black fruits that 89 Richemonne Cuvée Ultra Premier Cru structured, with its ripe tannins forming a solid base for give this wine its great aging ability and depth of flavor. 94 (Nuits-St.-Georges). Made from grapes sourced the dense red fruit and spicy wood flavors. It’s soli and It needs at least six years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, from vines planted in 1902, this is a huge, powerful, chunky, showing its youth through the rich texture. Age Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. minerally wine. It’s currently tight as a drum, with sol- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA for 3–4 years. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. id tannins and great density that pair with ripe plum abv: 12.5% Price: $NA and wood flavors. The acidity that appears on the fin- Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 ish promises long-term aging. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Nuits-St.- Echézeaux. Firmly tannic and powerful, this 94 Selection. —R.V. Georges. A foursquare, solid wine that shows is dominated by a plum skin texture and a spice note. 88 abv: NA Price: $NA its structure right up front. It is backed by red fruits It’s dense and rich, with a dry structure and the acidity and acids that lend a warm feeling. Full and dense, this of the vintage showing on the finish. Vineyard Brands. Domaine Perrot-Minot 2010 La needs to age. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. —R.V. Richemonne Premier Cru (Nu­ abv: NA Price: $68 abv: NA Price: $141 93 its-St.-Georges). Made from grapes that were sourced from vines close to Laroze de Drouhin 2010 Les Charmottes Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Vosne-Romanée, this has all of the structure of a Nu- (Nuits-St.-Georges). This has soft tannins, Perdrix (Echézeaux). This has all the ele- 88 94 its-St-Georges, with the power and density of Vosne- ripe fruit and fresh acidity, with a dominant berry flavor. ments—fruit, tannin, acidity and wood, with powerful Vosne-Romanée. Delicious, concentrated black fruits For a Nuits-St-Georges, this is quite open. Fruit of the weight and concentration. Let this age for at least eight pair with the acidity and the core of tannins. Martine’s Vines, Inc. —R.V. years; this is going to be impressive. Deutsch Family Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $195

WineMag.com | 53 a dense wine, with its acidity contrasting the rich red shows Savigny’s softness and approachability, along with OTHER CÔTE DE NUITS fruit. It is round and smooth, with well-integrated tan- tannins and acids. It is firmly concentrated, creating a WINES nins and a soft, fruity finish. Pierre Courdurie Selec- wine that feels complete, juicy and rich. Terlato Wines tions/Wine Partners. —R.V. International. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Clos de Vou­ abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $42 94 geot. This is a ripe Pinot Noir, with a firm and solid structure and a very dense character. It has con- Nuiton-Beaunoy 2010 Hautes Côtes de Joseph Drouhin 2010 Clos de Godeaux centration and a great depth of flavor; the blacks fruits 86 Nuits. Light, fragrant, and structured, this 90 Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Floral and tannins cut into the heart of the wine. Age for at shows a smoky flavor and refreshing red-berry fruit. It’s and round, this pushes its red berry flavors forward. It’s Cellar least seven years. Terlato Wines International. lively and fruity, and the tannins are in the background. so elegant and perfumed, with an attractive structure Selection. —R.V. Opici Wines. —R.V. and acidity. Ready to drink in a few months. Dreyfus, abv: NA Price: $187 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35 Domaine Heresztyn 2010 Clos Saint-De­ Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur 2009 93 nis. This is concentrated, but it’s all structure 85 Clos du Chapitre Premier Cru (Fixin). Moillard 2010 Aux Clous Premier Cru at this stage. It has rich black fruits that lie under the While the texture is rich and full-bodied, there is an 88 (Savigny-lès-Beaune). This carefully balanc- dense tannins, with a potentially rich powerhouse of fla- edge of sharp acidity that takes away from the generous es its firm structure and red fruit to form an attractive, vor. It needs at least six years of aging. Saranty Imports. ripeness. Tannins and juicy red fruits are present, but well-textured character. It doesn’t have a huge depth Cellar Selection. —R.V. the acidity is a little jarring. Masciarelli Wine Co. —R.V. of flavor, but it’s so poised and elegant, and aging well. abv: 13% Price: $197 abv: 13.5% Price: $68 Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Louis Latour 2010 Clos de Vougeot. Sol- Manuel Olivier 2009 Hautes Côtes de 92 id and powerful, with a very firm character, this 85 Nuits. Warm, ripe and round, this red-fruited shows the structured, concentrated side of the vineyard, wine has a fine feeling of richness. It is soft and fruity, POMMARD with complex acidity cutting through the dark tannins. with just the right amount of acidity to balance. Ready Olivier Leflaive 2010 Epenots Premier The wine is condensed and solidly based around a firm, to drink. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. Cru (Pommard). This is complex and power- dry core. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. —R.V. 93 ful, with its energy directed equally at the concentrated abv: NA Price: $260 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA tannins and at the ripe damson and plum fruits. It’s go- ing to be a delicious wine—the wood element smooth- Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Hautes Côtes de ture (Clos de la Roche). ing the firm edge. Age for at least five years. Frederick 90 This is broad and Nuits. This is a juicy, red-currant-flavored 84 Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. quite soft, with a dense, jammy red-fruit flavor. It has wine. With its round feel and soft, smoky tannins, it has abv: 13% Price: $100 tannins that are buried in the rich fruit, giving shape to an initial smoothness that is given some bite by the red- the wine. This is likely to mature soon. Boisset Family berry acidity on the finish. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. Vincent Prunier 2010 Les Chaponnières Estates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 Premier Cru (Pommard). This is a big, wood-laden smoky wine, with notes of spice and entic- Joseph Drouhin 2010 Côte de Nuits-Vil­ ALOXE-CORTON ing toast to go with the firm tannins. At the same time, 88 lages. Structured and firm, this has perfumed the fruit is vying to show its rich red-plum character. acids and solid tannins. A fruity character surfaces, Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2010 Les Bru­ Give this 4–5 years to begin to show its best. Saranty lending a round finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 91 nettes et Planchots (Aloxe-Corton). Com- Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 plex, dense and structured, this has dark plum fruit and abv: 13.5% Price: $NA solid, integrated tannins. It has weight and richness, Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ finishing with crisp red-berry acidity. Saranty Imports. Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 Epenots 87 ture La Mazière (Fixin). A fruity wine from —R.V. 90 Premier Cru (Pommard). Ripe and fruity, the lesser known Fixin appellation, this has strawberry abv: 13% Price: $NA this has tannins that are soft and rounded. It has struc- fruit, soft tannins and a warm, rich texture. The acidity ture and concentration, with ripe black-cherry fruit. It’s brings out a bright side to this approachable offering. Vincent Sauvestre 2010 Les Maréchaudes surprisingly ready to drink for a Pommard, although the Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. 91 Premier Cru (Aloxe-Corton). Complex and tannins demonstrate its ageability. Vineyard Brands. abv: 13% Price: $NA structured, this has rich tannins and a strawberry jam —R.V. flavor from the ripe fruit. With its fine balance between abv: NA Price: $58 Nuiton-Beaunoy 2010 Les Dames Hu­ the dry core and the fruity exterior, this should be cel- 87 guettes (Hautes Côtes de Nuits). Fragrant lared for at least four years. Monsieur Touton Selection Olivier Leflaive 2010 Pommard. Tannins and perfumed, this has a smoky character and crisp Ltd. —R.V. 90 and severe fruit flavors are the initial impres- fruit, while remaining attractively ripe. The tannins are abv: 13% Price: $NA sions of this wine. Behind the mineral, austere exterior, soft, and the acidity on the finish is fruity. Opici Wines. there is a richer, fatter core—its ripe red fruits waiting —R.V. Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2009 Les Bru­ to surface. Keep for at least three years. Frederick Wild- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 90 nettes et Planchots (Aloxe-Corton). With man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. its ripe strawberry-jam flavor, this demonstrates classic abv: 13% Price: $80 Louis Latour 2010 Marsannay. This is Pinot Noir juiciness. It has dry tannins as well, yielding 86 fruity, with some structure and pure acidity. It’s a ripe, concentrated wine that needs five years of aging. Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Pommard. fragrant and delicious now, bearing raspberry fruit and Saranty Imports. —R.V. 89 This shows the richness of the vintage in its ripe a light texture. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $43 red fruits. It has weight as well as tannins, with a solid, abv: NA Price: $25 firmly structured base of red plum fruit. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. Manuel Olivier 2009 Vieilles Vignes SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE abv: NA Price: $68 86 (Hautes Côtes de Nuits). With the extra Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Dominode concentration from the low-yielding old vines, this is 90 Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). This

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Louis Latour 2010 Epenots Premier Cru for several years. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ This wine can age, although it is already showing fruiti- 88 (Pommard). This is structured, with tannins Choice. —R.V. ness. Saranty Imports. —R.V. and dark fruits that are balanced by bright acids. The abv: NA Price: $52 abv: 13% Price: $NA firm, dry tannins give the wine shape; it will ultimately develop into a round, rich Pinot Noir. Louis Latour Inc. Vincent Sauvestre 2010 Les Santenots Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2010 Clos du —R.V. 90 Premier Cru (Volnay). Firm red currant and 86 Roi Premier Cru (Beaune). This is lightly abv: NA Price: $90 raspberry fruits dominate this smooth wine. The tan- structured, showing balanced red berry fruits and round nins, which lie underneath, give this round Pinot Noir tannins. For a 2010, it is softening fast; this should be Nuiton-Beaunoy 2010 Pommard. Firm, essential firmness. This needs to age for 2–3 years. drinkable in the next six months. Saranty Imports. 88 concentrated and tannic, this has a smoky char- Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. —R.V. acter that contrasts the red plum and strawberry fruits. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA It is solid and chunky, needing to age over several years. —R.V. Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils 2010 Vol­ abv: 13% Price: $NA 89 nay. Soft, round and perfumed, this has rich OTHER CÔTE DE red fruits that are laced with youthful acids and tannins. BEAUNE WINES With its texture, it has good aging potential; give it 4–5 VOLNAY years. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. Domaine Faiveley 2010 Clos des Cortons abv: 13% Price: $NA Faiveley (Corton). It’s rare in Burgundy that a Joseph Faiveley 2010 Santenots Premier 94 producer can add his name to a vineyard, but Faiveley’s Cru (Volnay). A beautifully perfumed wine 92 Louis Latour 2010 En Chevret Premier tradition goes back at least a century. This is huge and from one of Volnay’s top vineyards, this delights with Cru (Volnay). Rich, round and concentrated, dense; the notes of spice, sweet black plum and acidity its aromatic red fruits, ripe tannins and balancing acids. 89 this is developing fast. The acidity is already comfort- are all comfortably balanced with the powerful tannic It is still settling down and will certainly round out over ably embedded in the ripe red-berry fruit.. Louis La- structure. This needs at least seven years of aging. Fred- the next years when its more sumptuous side will come tour Inc. —R.V. erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. forward. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $215 abv: 13% Price: $100 Louis Latour 2010 Château Corton Olivier Leflaive 2010 Santenots Premier BEAUNE Grancey (Corton). For full review see page Cru (Volnay). 93 92 For the moment, the tannins 7. Cellar Selection. Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Clos des are still firm and the generous red fruits have not yet abv: 14% Price: $130 penetrated the surface. The acidity is present, like a line 93 Fèves Premier Cru (Beaune). This is dark of brightness that cuts through this richly tannic wine. and wood laden, with sweet, rich fruit and a firm, dense Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Les Verge­ This is a potentially opulent wine. Frederick Wildman structure. It has a full feel, and its opulence is likely to lesses Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergeless­ 92 & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. develop over the next 2–3 years. Terlato Wines Interna- es). This has ripe red fruits and soft, integrated tan- Cellar Selection. abv: 13% Price: $90 tional. —R.V. nins, with concentration and a voluptuous exterior. This abv: NA Price: $107 will be ready to drink soon. Terlato Wines International. Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 Vol­ Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Clos des 91 nay. Ripe and full, this tempers the natural abv: NA Price: $50 richness of Volnay with the restraint of tannins and lay- 92 Mouches Premier Cru (Beaune). Opulent ers of wood. The red fruit flavors are given a boost by and ripe, but at the same time it shows red fruits, fresh Joseph Drouhin 2010 Côte de Beaune. the young acidity that needs time to calm down. Age for acids and a structured core. It has a wonderful, gener- 92 For full review see page 8. 3–4 years. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ous finish that showcases the rich fruits and warm tan- abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $43 nins. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $112 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Côte de Beaune- Domaine Vincent Girardin 2010 San­ Villages. Soft and rounded, this has a raspber- Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2010 89 91 tenots Premier Cru (Volnay). Firm, concen- ry flavor and a fine, full feel. It has the tannic structure Beaune Montrevenots Premier Cru trated and solid, this has a tight core that’s surrounded 90 of the vintage, which fits into the sumptuous, cushioned (Beaune). by sweeter dark-plum fruit. This is ripe and full bodied, This wine’s juicy acidity and raspberry fla- texture. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. with a definite need for aging. Vineyard Brands.Cellar vor are delicious and upfront. Along with all this fruit, abv: 13% Price: $24 Selection. —R.V. the tannins act as support, lending structure and aging abv: NA Price: $52 potential. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Louis Latour 2010 Ile de Vergelesses abv: 13% Price: $36 89 Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses). Soft Olivier Leflaive 2010 Clos des Angles and rounded, this has an open, fragrant character. It has Bouchard Aîné & Fils 2009 Cuvée Signa­ 91 Premier Cru (Volnay). Big and firm, this is ripe flavors of strawberries and red plums, with a touch ture Clos de Roi Premier Cru (Beaune). packed with red fruits and solid tannins. It has flavors 89 of wood and delicious, fresh acidity. Only on the finish of red berries and black fruits—the wood component With its layers of wood and sweet fruit, this is both well does the structured side show through. Louis Latour still prominent. The acidity is gentle; but it does need to textured and rich. It’s balanced with acidity, giving the Inc. —R.V. age for at least four years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, wine a tighter edge while also emphasizing the ripe abv: NA Price: $35 Ltd. —R.V. fruit. Keep for a year, but this can also be consumed abv: 13% Price: $90 now. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2010 La Com­ abv: 13% Price: $NA 88 me Premier Cru (Santenay). This is chunky, Chanson Père et Fils 2009 Volnay. This with a firm, tannic structure. The black fruits are piled Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2009 Clos du 90 is a firm wine with great fruit density, with on top, creating a solid, ripe wine. The weight and den- Roi Premier Cru (Beaune). Dense, rich and a round, generous and velvety texture. It has a touch 88 sity should allow this to age for at least three years. Sa- ripe, this has some tannic structure, but it’s less salient of wood that needs to integrate with the flavor of red ranty Imports. —R.V. plum skin. The dark tannins create a wine that will age compared to the ripe fruit, soft texture and juicy acidity. abv: 13% Price: $42

WineMag.com | 55 Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils 2010 Cho­ Domaines Devillard 2010 Château de BOURGOGNE 88 rey-lès-Beaune. Ripe, soft and smoky, this 90 Chamirey Les Cinq Premier Cru (Mercu­ has strawberry and red plum flavors. The acidity surfac- rey). Made from grapes sourced from Domaines Devil- Joseph Drouhin 2010 La Forêt Pinot Noir es later, along with a light, dry texture. The wine could lard’s 12 acres of premier cru Mercurey vineyards, this 87 (Bourgogne). Attractively ripe, this has fruity age for 3–4 years. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. rich, weighty wine has ripe red fruits that are layered red-berry flavors along with acidity and soft tannins. abv: 13% Price: $NA with new wood and tannins. A structured effort that’s This is ready to drink now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. meant to age for five years and more. Deutsch Family abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Joseph Drouhin 2010 Chorey-lès- Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 88 Beaune. This is built with red cherry fruit, tan- abv: 13% Price: $68 Nuiton-Beaunoy 2010 Réserve Pinot Noir nins and a ripe feel. Chorey-lès-Beaune is a good source 87 (Bourgogne). This is warm and round, with for fruity reds with just the right touch of structure. Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2010 Les Puil­ red fruit flavors that are attractively displayed against Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 89 lets Premier Cru (Mercurey). This has a a backdrop of soft tannins. The acidity lends crispness, abv: 13% Price: $25 firm edge of tannins along with dense red fruits. It’s highlighting the ripe fruit on the finish. Opici Wines. structured and balanced, with the texture and acidity —R.V. Olivier Leflaive 2010 Côte de Beaune-Vil­ that suggest its aging potential. Give this 3–4 years. Sa- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 88 lages. Ripe and fruity, but also structured, this ranty Imports. —R.V. has fine acidity with a hint of wood. The main thrust of abv: 13% Price: $34 Chanson Père et Fils 2010 Le Pinot Noir the wine is its raspberry, plum and damson fruits. The 86 (Bourgogne). This has soft red fruits along finish has a lively feel. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Domaine Faiveley 2010 Mercurey. With with a firm structure of tannins and acids. Shapely and —R.V. 88 its juicy, strawberry-like acidity, smoky charac- balanced, this is ready to drink now. Terlato Wines In- abv: 13% Price: $NA ter and firm tannins, this is already well developed and ternational. —R.V. delicious. The finish brings out crispness and fragrance. abv: NA Price: $22 André Guichot 2010 La Maladière Pre­ Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 87 mier Cru (Santenay). This is an attractively abv: 13% Price: $25 Nicolas Potel 2010 Pinot Noir (Bour­ structured wine, with ripe strawberry and smoky wood 86 gogne). Light and fruity, this has red fruit fla- flavors. The fruit continues through to the soft finish, L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Château Mi-Pont vors that are tempered with soft, perfumed tannins and which is laced with acidity and a firm tannic core. Mar- 87 (Mercurey). From Tramier’s own vineyards, balancing acidity. Some sweetness shows through to- salle/Stoler Company. —R.V. this is a soft, fleshy wine with a light touch. The tan- ward the finish. Ready to drink now. Wines Unlimited, abv: 13% Price: $NA nins are already gentle and the red berry fruits are high- Inc. —R.V. lighted by crisp acidity. For short-term aging only. Luxe abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Michel Picard 2009 Le Charmois Premier Vintages. —R.V. 86 Cru (Saint-Aubin). Still tannic, this is a min- abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Michel Picard 2009 Pinot Noir (Bour­ erally wine that’s driven by red currant fruit. Its acidity is 84 gogne). This wine balances its acidity, light also an important element. It has the potential to round Vignerons de Buxy 2010 Buissonnier texture and softness with ripe red fruits. It has a touch out and fill out over the next 2–3 years. Prestige Wine 87 (Mercurey). Fruity and tannic, this has a dry of bitterness, although this is enveloped by the ripe fruit Group. —R.V. character that dominates the red fruit underneath. It’s of the vintage. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 full bodied, with a nervy edge of acidity and a smoky abv: 13% Price: $18 flavor that comes from having been aged in wood. Ruby Domaine Poulleau Père et Fils 2010 Les Wines Inc. —R.V. André Guichot 2009 Pinot Noir (Bour­ 84 Mondes Rondes (Côte de Beaune). On abv: 12.5% Price: $22 83 gogne). Surprisingly light for the vintage, this the lean side, this taut and crisp red-currant-flavored has a wood note and intense acidity, with a crisp, almost wine is dominated by acidity and dry tannins. It seems Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2010 La Brig­ green, raspberry flavor. The finish is juicy. Marsalle/ to miss out on generosity. Stephen Augustus Imports. 86 adière Vieilles Vignes (Mercurey). Soft Stoler Company. —R.V. —R.V. and crisp, this is light in texture and very fragrant. It abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA boasts intense strawberry flavors, with already well-in- tegrated tannins and a smooth, easy finish. Saranty Im- L. Tramier et Fils 2010 La Minée Pinot ports. —R.V. 83 Noir (Bourgogne). This is a lean, acid-driven MERCUREY abv: 13% Price: $24 wine, without much in the way of generous fruit. It has Domaines Devillard 2009 Château de a green strawberry note, with a light sense of structure 91 Chamirey Les Cinq Premier Cru (Mercu­ and a minerally finish. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. rey). Opulent and ripe, this is full of sweet red fruit, OTHER CÔTE abv: 12.5% Price: $18 with tannins that have absorbed into the fruit. The wood CHALONNAISE WINES aging acts as support to the rich texture. It is develop- Joseph Drouhin 2010 Rully. Taut, tannic VENETO ing well, but could certainly age for four years or more. 87 and nervy, this has red currant fruit that gives a Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. crisp sensation to this tight, precise wine. Give it a year abv: 13% Price: $68 SOAVE CLASSICO to soften. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $26 Suavia 2008 Le Rive (Soave Classico). Domaine Faiveley 2010 Clos des Myg­ For full review see page 10. lands Premier Cru (Mercurey). 90 90 Clos des Vignerons de Buxy 2010 Buissonnier abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Myglands is a vineyard wholly owned by Faiveley. In 85 (Côte Chalonnaise). This is light and fruity, 2010, it has produced a richly structured wine, full of with its red fruit upfront. The tannins are balanced, in Cantina del Castello 2011 Castello ripe plum and sweet acidity that dominates the firm tan- keeping with the wine’s perfumed nature. The youthful 88 (Soave Classico). This blend of Gargane- nins. The finish is juicy, balanced by a jammy character. acidity on the finish is likely to soften out in a year. Ruby ga and 10% Trebbiano di Soave shows a bright, lumi- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Wines Inc. —R.V. nous straw color, fresh aromas of citrus, stone fruit and 13% $40 abv: Price: abv: 12.5% Price: $16 blanched almond. It delivers a blast of lively tonic fresh- ness on the finish. Petit Pois. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Tedeschi 2011 Capitel Tenda (Soave Cesari 2006 Il Bosco (Amarone della French oak, this is chewy and rich, with thick layers of 87 Classico). Produced by one of Valpolicella’s 94 Valpolicella Classico). The Cesari family red fruit, spice, leather, chocolate and cola. It’s a mod- best producers of Amarone, this offers a crisp citrus has perfected its formula for achieving pure pleasure ern rendition, with a soft, velvety mouthfeel and end aroma followed by notes of peach, white almond and in liquid form. This is superstar Amarone, with loads notes of toasted vanilla and expresso bean. Its thick ex- pear. It is crisp, compact and medium in length. Drey- of chewy, ripe fruit, decadent dark chocolate, leather, traction and high alcohol make this a perfect wine for a fus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. moist pipe tobacco and candied raspberry flavors. Even snowy winter night. RC Importers. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 with all of the richness, extraction and deliciousness, abv: 16.5% Price: $100 this is an elegant wine. Drink after 2018. Opici Wines. Tommasi 2011 Le Volpare (Soave Clas­ Cellar Selection. —M.L. Luigi Righetti 2006 G&G (Amarone della 87 sico). Refreshing and bright, this would pair abv: 15% Price: $90 93 Valpolicella Classico). For full review see with a range of Mediterranean foods, from tomato brus- page 7. Cellar Selection. chetta to fried zucchini flowers. It offers a steady flow of Quintarelli 2003 Amarone della Valpoli­ abv: 15% Price: $160 citrus, pear and stone fruit flavors. Vintus LLC. —M.L. 94 cella Classico. If there is one quality that dis- abv: 12% Price: $13 tinguishes the wines of the late Giuseppe Quintarelli, it Masi 2007 Costasera Riserva (Amarone is complexity. Unlike any other producer in the Ama- 93 della Valpolicella Classico). Sometimes rone production area, this legendary artisan magically you need a little morsel of deliciousness to remind you SPARKLING WINES pulls out aromas of dried sage, Indian spice, crushed of a place or an important experience. This is reminis- cent of the rich offerings of the Veneto. A classic rendi- Canella NV Rosé Brut (Veneto). Made us- white pepper and delicate forest berry. On the palate, tion of Amarone, it’s tightly loaded with notes of choco- ing the fragrant Pinot Nero grape, this cheer- the wine is bright, crisp and intense, but never heavy or 86 late, spice, tobacco and ripe fruit intensity. The finish is ful rosé sparkler shows a pretty pale-pink color, with syrupy. Italy lost one of its greatest winemakers when long and velvety, with a touch of sweetness and a note delicate aromas of wild berry, cranberry and fresh rasp- Quintarelli passed away in early 2012. Robert Chadder- of barbecue spice. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. berry. It shows bright, bubbling and persistent perlage. don Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $95 Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $NA abv: 11% Price: $15 Speri 2008 Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano Nicolis 2006 Ambrosan (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This is a modern, Domenico Cavazza NV Prosecco. Bubbly 94 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). 93 plump rendition of Amarone, with soft lines and chewy and bright, this has cheerful aromas of citrus, For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. 86 aromas of black cherry, chocolate fudge, cinnamon and white almond and wild flower. Clean, tonic and refresh- abv: 15% Price: $80 blackberry preserves that are immediate and upfront. ing overall, this would make for a great afternoon sipper. Zymè 2001 La Mattonara Riserva (Ama­ The rich, velvety texture make this a great candidate for Casa Torelli . —M.L. rone della Valpolicella Classico). pairing with wintery cheese fondue. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 94 This has all of the makings of a cult classic to come. It has pedi- abv: 16% Price: $88 Lamberti NV Rosé (Veneto). A refreshing gree—one of the founding winery partners is linked San Rustico 2006 Gaso (Amarone della rosé sparkler that would pair with smoked salm- to the Quintarelli legacy—quality, elegance and a long 85 Valpolicella Classico). This shows beautiful- on or fried calamari rings, this is tonic and bright, of- aging future ahead. Dark, dense and thickly extracted, 93 ly elegant aromas of spice, black pepper, crushed gran- fering crisp acidity and tonic effervescence. Frederick this is redolent of sweet tobacco, savory spice, cola, teri- ite, dried spice and fresh forest berry. There is are rec- Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. yaki sauce, black fruit and currant. The finish is long ognizable notes of jammy red fruit and marmalade, but abv: 11.5% Price: $15 and streamlined, showing a touch of heat and muscle. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. the bouquet remains tightly pulled together and bal- —M.L. anced nonetheless. It imparts a crisp, clean sensation AMARONE CLASSICO abv: 16% Price: $350 on the palate, with a long, polished finish. John Given Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Masi 2003 Mazzano (Amarone della Val­ Begali 2007 Monte Ca’ Bianca (Amarone abv: 16% Price: $61 96 policella Classico). This has enormous rich- 93 della Valpolicella Classico). This shows ness and intensity, with penetrating aromas of leather, enormous personality and distinctive aromas of rose- Zenato 2007 Amarone della Valpolicel­ tobacco, spice, dark fruit and dark chocolate. On the mary, bay leaf, sweet cherry, prune, spice, cola and to- 93 la Classico. Full, gorgeous and bright, this palate, it’s inky, rich and supersmooth. This is one of bacco. Made in a large, bold style, it delivers plush lay- shows restraint and elegance, with lovely aromas of the best Italian wines ever made from the difficult 2003 ers of sweetness and softness, with a touch of heat on sweet cherry, blackberry pie, leather, tar and black lic- vintage. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. the finish. Siema LLC. —M.L. orice. In keeping with Valpolicella tradition, there is a —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $58 touch of sweetness on the palate, but the quality of the abv: 16% Price: $175 fruit is clean and polished. Hold for 10 years or more. Bertani 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Le Salette 2008 Pergole Vece (Amarone 93 Classico. For full review see page 6. abv: 16.5% Price: $70 95 della Valpolicella Classico). For full review abv: 14.5% Price: $110 see page 4. Cellar Selection. Allegrini 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella abv: 16% Price: $132 Brunelli 2007 Campo Inferi Riserva (Am­ 92 Classico. One of the founding members of the 93 arone della Valpolicella Classico). Ripe prestigious Amarone Families association who focus on Zenato 2006 Sergio Zenato Riserva (Am­ plum, maraschino, moist tobacco, Indian spice and safeguarding the unique winemaking traditions of Val- 95 arone della Valpolicella Classico). This used leather are components of the complex bouquet. policella, Allegrini sets the standard for a new genera- is a real beauty, with huge intensity and loads of deep It shows great intensity and power; the mouthfeel is tion of vintners. This opens with sweet tones of Indian chocolate fudge, black cherry, cola, barbecue and black smooth, rich and opulent. Try pairing it with rib-eye spice, ripe fruit and tobacco. The mouthfeel is exceed- licorice flavors. It manages contrasting tones of sweet steaks and baked black beans. ID Beverage Group. ingly rich, long lasting and intense. Winebow. —M.L. versus savory that pleasure the tastebuds. The palate is —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $85 rich, smooth and superconcentrated. Winebow. Cellar abv: 16% Price: $60 Selection. —M.L. Begali 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella abv: 16.5% Price: $125 Corte Aleardi 2006 Amarone della Val­ 92 Classico. Begali’s wines really do offer their 93 policella Classico. Aged for 48 months in own unique personality and style. This wine is embel-

WineMag.com | 57 lished by slightly green aromas of bay leaf and rosemary Remo Farina 2007 Monte Fante Riserva lights of teriyaki, ginger and cola. ID Beverage Group. oil that add brightness and buoyancy. The flavors are 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). —M.L. complex, long lasting and include notes of soft spice, Remo Farina makes a style of Amarone that will appeal abv: 15% Price: $34 ripe fruit and sweet tobacco. Siema LLC. —M.L. to those who are true fans of this distinctive category abv: 15.5% Price: $45 of Italian reds. This is big, bold and not bashful by any Cesari 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella stretch. It offers masculine tones of warm leather, cured 91 Classico. Packaged in an elegantly frosted Brunelli 2007 Campo del Tìtari Riserva meat, smoked bacon, ripe fruit and blackberry pre- bottle, this brawny wine deliver the goods. It shows in- 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). serves. The finish is tightly loaded with a fresh tobacco tensity, persistency and is tightly packed with luscious A small percentage of Sangiovese is added to this tra- flavor. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. aromas of black cherry, leather, tobacco and black ol- ditional Amarone blend, giving it balance and acidity. abv: 15% Price: $85 ive. The tannins are velvety and rich without being over- The bouquet is redolent of oak spice, vanilla, barbecue done. Opici Wines. —M.L. spice, cherry, soy sauce, leather and tobacco. Both the Tedeschi 2007 Capitel Monte Olmi (Ama­ abv: 15% Price: $55 complexity and the intensity reach impressive levels. On 92 rone della Valpolicella Classico). For full the palate, it tastes dry and richly textured. ID Beverage review see page 8. Cellar Selection. Corteforte 2005 Terre di San Zeno (Ama­ Group. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $95 91 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Notes of abv: 15.5% Price: $65 eucalyptus, dried rosemary, humus, licorice, black olive Tommasi 2008 Amarone della Valpoli­ and dark berry give this a unique personality. It glides Castellani Michele & Figli 2008 Colle 92 cella Classico. This expression is beautifully smoothly over the palate thanks to its supple, velvety 92 Christi Collezione Ca’ del Pipa (Amarone integrated and balanced, with notes of forest fruit and tannins, and it finishes with an additional bright spot of della Valpolicella Classico). This stands out for its cassis that are set against touches of tar, licorice, brown tangy green herb. The Wine Company. —M.L. overall richness and generosity. It reveals layers of jam- sugar and cola. The lush and opulent finish delivers an abv: 15% Price: $55 my fruit, blackberry, spice, teriyaki sauce, ginger and impressive load of dark chocolate and exotic spice. Vin- dried herb. There’s a cheerful touch of sweetness that tus LLC. —M.L. Eleva 2005 Piovesole (Amarone della is buffered by the wine’s natural thickness and intensity. abv: 15% Price: $75 91 Valpolicella Classico). This boasts tiny por- Bedford International. —M.L. tions of Teroldego, Merlot and Croatina that give the abv: 15.5% Price: $52 Villa Monteleone 2008 Amarone della wine a soft, lush disposition. Some 42 months of oak 92 Valpolicella Classico. Elegant lines distin- aging also add to the palate’s overall silkiness. Flavors Masi 2006 Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron guish this wine, making it a fantastic choice with almost of chocolate, cherry, plum, tar, resin and licorice are all 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). any hearty meat dish. Notes of chocolate, espresso, recognizable. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L. This shows a unique elegance that comes in the form cherry and sweet, toasted vanilla characterize the bou- abv: 16.5% Price: $50 of dusty, linear tones of old spice and crushed granite, quet, giving this Amarone a modern, forward feel. The giving texture to the fruit and toasted nut aromas. It is finish is long, luscious and driven by a melted chocolate Fabiano 2005 I Fondatori Riserva (Ama­ also easier to drink than other Amarone wines thanks to flavor. Wirtz Beverage. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 91 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Big and its polished, fine nature of its tannins. Folio Fine Wine abv: 15% Price: $48 bold, this has noticeable alcohol and loads of choco- Partners. —M.L. late, espresso and jammy black-fruit flavors. The overall abv: 15.5% Price: $75 Zenato 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­ muscle and brawn of the mouthfeel give balance to the 92 la Classico. Zenato is a reliable producer of heat and intensity. Pair this with aged cheese or grilled Montecariano 2007 Amarone della Val­ quality Amarone, producing wines that always show steak. Admiral Imports. —M.L. 92 policella Classico. This standout Amarone personality and intensity. This delivers bold fruit and abv: 16% Price: $80 boasts elegant mineral tones of wet river stone and background tones of polished leather and dry tobacco. crushed granite, which are followed by softer layers of The mouthful is very bold and thick, boasting a playful Le Salette 2008 La Marega (Amarone del­ ripe fruit and spice. There’s a savory note of soy sauce touch of sweet spice. Winebow. —M.L. 91 la Valpolicella Classico). Dark and brood- and cured meat, with a smoky barbecue overtone. Let abv: 16.5% Price: $30 ing, this has inky concentration, power and determina- this wine age 10 years or more. Ribevi Wine Int. Cellar tion. The nose is alive with tones of blackberry, mara- Selection. —M.L. Antolini 2008 Ca’ Coato (Amarone della schino, leather, tobacco and rusty soil. The mouthfeel is abv: 16% Price: $90 91 Valpolicella Classico). This delivers enor- thick and penetrating. Vias Imports. —M.L. mous aromatic intensity that rises from the glass in a abv: 15% Price: $68 Novaia 2008 Corte Vaona (Amarone della determined and immediate manner. The nose is awash 92 Valpolicella Classico). A distinctive expres- in aromas of ripe fruit, leather, tobacco, exotic spice and Masi 2008 Costasera (Amarone della sion from Valpolicella, this shows pretty herb notes of black pepper. The soft, chewy mouthfeel is capped by a 91 Valpolicella Classico). This is a landmark oregano and dried mint, with licorice and spice accents. strong blast of roasted coffee bean. Terra Verus Trading Amarone that has often acted as the category’s biggest There are also softer tones of coffee, leather and juicy Co. LP. —M.L. ambassador abroad. It bursts open with aromas of dark black cherry. Overall, this is elegant, nuanced and pow- abv: 16.5% Price: $70 berry, spice, leather and tobacco, and it is both generous erful. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. and long-lasting on the palate. Folio Fine Wine Part- abv: 15% Price: $50 Antolini 2008 Morópio (Amarone della ners. —M.L. 91 Valpolicella Classico). Dark and savory, this abv: 15% Price: $60 Novaia 2007 Riserva Vigneto Le Balze opens with cured meat, smoked bacon, teriyaki, cherry 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). and cola aromas. The palate is lush and velvety, with ac- Montresor 2008 Capitel della Crosara This special vineyard-designate delivers savory notes of cents of candied fruit, leather and black pepper. Terra 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). A cured meat, smoked bacon, barbecued herbs and can- Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. historic name in Valpolicella, Montresor is known for died berries. The intensity and overall complexity is im- abv: 16% Price: $60 producing balanced, elegant expressions of Amarone. pressive, and so is the richness and persistency of the This provides slightly darker, riper aromas of black fruit, mouthfeel. It ends with a touch of crispness and a bitter Brunelli 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella prune, dried currant and exotic spice. Total Wine & cherry accent. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. 91 Classico. Dark and brawny, this opens with More. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $75 almost impenetrable concentration and bold aromas of abv: 15.5% Price: $57 jammy fruit, blackberry, espresso, cedar and moist to- bacco. It has a smooth, rich texture, with lively high- Nicolis 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella 91 Classico. This producer does a fantastic job of

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 presenting quality air-dried fruit without the jamminess Villa Spinosa 2001 Guglielmi di Jago Cecilia Beretta 2007 Terre di Cariano and heaviness that is sometimes encountered. Aged for 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). A 30 months in large oak casks, this is tight, structured Beautifully aged, this shows a dusty, ripe quality. The sub brand of the historic Pasqua winery, this is an el- and elegant. Vignaioli. —M.L. bouquet is rounded out by notes of leather, resin, mo- egant expression of Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, Cro- abv: 15% Price: $60 lasses, tobacco, dried ginger, cola and licorice. There’s atina and Oseleta—Valpolicella’s principal indigenous a tight firmness to the tannins, which have gracefully red grapes. This is dark and chewy, with bright berry Pietro Zardini 2005 Leone Zardini (Ama­ carried this wine forward over the years. Tradizione Im- notes and loads of tangy spice. Pasqua U.S.A LLC. 91 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Hot fruit ports. —M.L. —M.L. and syrupy cherry or blackberry aromas open the bou- abv: 16% Price: $95 abv: 15.5% Price: $60 quet of this brawny Amarone (that clocks in at 16% al- cohol). The mouthfeel is exceedingly round and supple Aldegheri 2007 Amarone della Valpoli­ Corte San Benedetto 2007 Amarone del­ and the wine ends with a jammy note of sweet fruit. 90 cella Classico. Nicely balanced, focused and 90 la Valpolicella Classico. Leg of lamb with Leone Zardini will appeal to those who like a bold style. hearty, this offers a wide spectrum of ripe fruit and dark a rosemary-garlic marinade and white beans would J.A.O. Wine Imports. —M.L. spice aromas. The finish is soft and supple, with a tangy pair nicely with this darkly concentrated wine. This is abv: 16% Price: $60 note of barbecue smoke that leaves a lasting impression. a thick, savory expression that offers loads of ripe fruit Testa Wines Of The World. —M.L. and prune flavors, with spicy notes of teriyaki and hick- Recchia 2005 Ca’ Bertoldi (Amarone del­ abv: 15.5% Price: $53 ory smoke. Global Wine Imports LLC. —M.L. 91 la Valpolicella Classico). On the dark and abv: 16% Price: $42 savory side, this opens with blackberry, prune, chocolate Aldegheri 2007 Barricato (Amarone della and moist tobacco aromas. It offers ethereal notes of 90 Valpolicella Classico). This spent two years Domìni Veneti 2005 Vigneti di Jago (Ama­ dried herb, cola and licorice that give the wine a lighter, maturing in large oak casks and one year in barriques. 90 rone della Valpolicella Classico). For full more buoyant personality. Shaw-Ross International Im- Such an aging regimen has imparted deep aromas of review see page 10. porters. —M.L. spice, tobacco, toasted almond, chocolate and tobacco abv: 16.5% Price: $50 abv: 16% Price: $37 that surround lively notes of blackberry and ripe cherry. Terry Seitz. —M.L. Fabiano 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­ Rubinelli Vajol 2008 Amarone della Val­ abv: 15% Price: $65 90 la Classico. Steady and focused, this has tight 91 policella Classico. Powerful and muscu- aromas of blackberry and spice that open and evolve lar, this would pair with succulent red meat or piquant Arduini 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­ the longer the wine stays in the glass. There’s a touch cheese. The mouthfeel is velvety and supple, and the 90 la Classico. Lavish and opulent, this has ripe of sweet strawberry on the finish. Admiral Imports. bouquet is redolent of cooked berry, prune, dried bay fruit and spice notes that are followed by tangy green —M.L. leaf, humus, toasted coffee bean and licorice. Ambrosia peppercorn and rosemary accents. It shows a succu- abv: 15% Price: $50 Wine Group. —M.L. lent spot of sweetness that drives the long and generous abv: 16.5% Price: $70 mouthfeel. Age this for 10 years, or drink it now. Terra Manara 2007 Postera (Amarone della Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. 90 Valpolicella Classico). Rich and savory, this Santa Sofia 2007 Amarone della Valpoli­ abv: 15.5% Price: $55 is loaded with concentration and power. The aromas in- 91 cella Classico. This has clean, linear aromas clude ripe blackberry, creamy cinnamon bun, Spanish of fruit and spice that are tied together in one elegant Bottega 2006 Il Vino Prêt-a-Porter Riser­ cedar, leather and barbecued meat. The finish is soft, package. The mouthfeel is similarly composed, with 90 va (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). chewy and succulent. Emporium Nostrum. —M.L. power and intensity that is elegant and never exagger- With the faux leather label and over-the-top carrying abv: 15% Price: $57 ated or too heavy. Laird & Company. —M.L. case, this Amarone emphasizes its packaging. The wine abv: 15% Price: $65 inside is very appealing, showing bright fruit and cherry Monte del Frá 2008 Tenuta Lena di Mez­ notes that are enhanced by sweet tobacco and spice ac- 90 zo (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Sartori 2007 Corte Brà (Amarone della cents. The finish is long and silky. Palm Bay Interna- This dark, brawny expression doles out lavish aromas 91 Valpolicella Classico). This delivers a cheer- tional. —M.L. of smoked bacon, black olive, molasses, maple syrup ful aromatic embroidery of cherry, cassis, toasted al- abv: 16% Price: $150 and rich blackberry preserves. It’s spicy and rich, but mond, Indian spice, leather and bitter chocolate. The also tart and crisp. Those contrasting elements give it a mouthfeel is another selling point thanks to its smooth- Buglioni 2007 L’Amarone (Amarone del­ sweet and sour feeling. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. ness and persistency. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. 90 la Valpolicella Classico). This meaty, mas- abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 15% Price: $52 culine expression has an inky, dark appearance, with chewy tones of blackberry jam, toasted espresso bean Montresor 2008 Giacomo Montresor Terre di Leone 2006 Amarone della Val­ and chocolate fudge. Its high alcohol is supported by 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). 91 policella Classico. Notes of sweet cherry, the rich density of the syrupy texture. Martin Scott This dishes out out generous servings of ripe berry fruit prune, blackberry and cinnamon make an immediate Wines. —M.L. and smoked hickory sauce. It’s chewy, richly concen- first impression. As the wine evolves in the glass, this abv: 17% Price: $65 trated and slightly sweet, with lively endnotes of jammy delivers slow pulses of cured meat, bacon and crushed fruit and maraschino. Total Wine & More. —M.L. white pepper. The texture is soft, smooth and silky. Il Castellani Michele & Figli 2008 Cinque abv: 15.5% Price: $50 Pioppo. —M.L. 90 Stelle Collezione Ca’ del Pipa (Ama­ abv: 16.5% Price: $88 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Give this wine Remo Farina 2008 Amarone della Valpo­ a few more years in the cellar before popping the cork. 90 licella Classico. There’s a bright note of wild Venturini Massimino 2007 Campomasua The tannins are slightly astringent, and the palate is berry, orange peel and red apple at the very start that 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). thickly layered with ripe fruit, red apple, tobacco and fades away quickly to reveal savory tones of cured meat, Tight and compact, this delivers tangy, spicy intensity moist earth notes. There’s depth and consistency in the leather and coffee grounds. It’s compact and powerful, that’s packed around a solid core of red fruit. The mid- mouth, along with a playful touch of sweetness. Bedford but not over the top. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. palate is driven by sensations of cherry, cassis and black- International. —M.L. —M.L. berry, and the finish shows signs of smoky barbecue and abv: 15.5% Price: $75 abv: 15% Price: $50 roasted chestnut. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $55 San Rustico 2007 Amarone della Valpo­ 90 licella Classico. San Rustico consistently

WineMag.com | 59 makes some of the best Amarone available in the Unit- der a muddled bouquet, but instead the wine remains Zeni 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella ed States market. This shows fine qualities of blackber- tight with fresh acidity and flavors of bitter almond and 89 Classico. Cheerful and youthful, this opens ry, chocolate and tobacco, and a polished, silky mouth- wild berry. BelVino LLC. —M.L. with a sweet bouquet of wild berry, red rose, freshly feel. John Given Wines. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80 grated cinnamon and clove. It’s hearty and dense, but abv: 15.5% Price: $54 it delivers flavors that are refreshingly clear. Monsieur Degani 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. Secondo Marco 2007 Amarone della Val­ 89 Classico. Of Degani’s two Amarone wines, abv: 15% Price: $40 90 policella Classico. What sets this wine apart this one offers a leaner consistency and brighter aro- are the cooling aromas of chopped mint and white lico- mas of wild berry, white cherry, dried rose petal, cola Antica Corte 2007 Amarone della Valpo­ rice. It delivers tangy layers of black olive, resin, tar, to- and apple cider. It’s a clean, polished expression, with 88 licella Classico. This opens with sweet tones bacco leaf and sweet cinnamon stick. —M.L. freshness on the finish. Michael R. Downey Selections. of milk chocolate, blackberry, exotic spice, Spanish ce- abv: 15.5% Price: $NA —M.L. dar and black pepper. There’s heat and power on the abv: 15% Price: $48 finish, but its overall generosity and density balances ev- Stefano Accordini 2008 Acinatico (Ama­ erything out nicely. Saranty Imports. —M.L. 90 rone della Valpolicella Classico). The oak Degani 2009 La Rosta (Amarone della abv: 14.5% Price: $NA is very present, so give this a few more years of cellar 89 Valpolicella Classico). This shows sweet, aging for it to integrate. Chocolate, Christmas spices, plush fruit aromas, with background tones of leather Carlo Boscaini 2008 San Giorgio (Ama­ leather, toasted almonds and coffee grounds make a and tobacco. By no means is this wine over the top, in 88 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Chewy grand first impression. As the wine evolves in the glass, fact, it shows a firm but elegant quality throughout. Mi- and rich, this has opulent tones of ripe fruit, chocolate cherry and black currant aromas surface. Omniwines chael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. fudge, Indian spice, maple syrup and dark honey, with a Distribution. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $56 pungent point of dried apple or lemon zest in the back- abv: 16% Price: $30 ground. The finish is extracted and dense, showing a Giuseppe Campagnola 2008 Caterina playful touch of sweetness. Tuscany Import. —M.L. Tinazzi 2008 Tenuta Valleselle Aurum 89 Zardini Riserva (Amarone della Valpoli­ abv: 15.5% Price: $33 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). cella Classico). Compared to past vintages, this edi- Packaged in an extremely heavy bottle, this opulent tion of Caterina Zardini Riserva shows slightly pungent Corte Archi 2008 Gli Archi (Amarone del­ Amarone delivers knockout aromas of toasted almond, aromas of red apple, plum, cherry and cassis. The bright 88 la Valpolicella Classico). Produced by vint- hickory smoke, pipe tobacco and spice. Fruit flavors of fruit gives the wine support and endurance, which is ner Fernando Campagnola, this shows a touch of apple plum, prune and blackberry are followed by a much- further reinforced by the soft, velvety mouthfeel Supe- skin as well as aromas of raspberry, currant and sweet needed touch of acidity that keeps the palate refreshed. rior Wines LLC. —M.L. tobacco. The finish is sweet and succulent, with a hint Opera Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $30 of candied almond on the close. International Cellars. abv: 15% Price: $25 —M.L. Il Roverone 2007 Amarone della Valpo­ abv: 16% Price: $50 Zeni 2007 Barriques (Amarone della Val­ 89 licella Classico. If you like power, this is the 90 policella Classico). Linear, elegant and tight, wine you want. The heat from the alcohol is definitely Giuseppe Lonardi 2008 Amarone della this has defined aromas of wild berry, crushed stone, noticeable, but it’s also nicely balanced by the thick ex- 88 Valpolicella Classico. Extremely thick, soft clove, licorice and road pavement. The palate shows re- traction, soft texture and ripe berry flavors. High alco- and extracted, this delivers flavors of ripe fruit, cinna- freshing intensity thanks to its power, concentration and hol is a common result of the appassimento process (the mon stick, honey, barbecue sauce, cured meat and dried structure. Bacchus Imports, Inc. —M.L. air-drying of grapes) used to make this wine. Specialty apple skin. Savory tones of leather and button mush- abv: 16% Price: $60 Wine Co. —M.L. room show up later. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $55 abv: 15% Price: $49 Antica Corte 2009 Amarone della Valpo­ 89 licella Classico. Candied fruit, prune and La Dama 2007 Amarone della Valpolicel­ Le Bertarole 2008 Podere Cariano (Am­ apricot notes open the bouquet of this deep, dark wine. 89 la Classico. This embodies a bold, opulent 88 arone della Valpolicella Classico). Com- The palate picks up speed thanks to the savory tones of and modern style that will appeal to those who enjoy pared to the last vintage, which was riper and chewier, cured meat and barbecue smoke. A much-needed point wines with chocolate, spice and ripe fruit flavors. It’s this offers a streamlined and focused mouthfeel, with of acidity on the finish pulls the wine nicely together. sticky and soft on the finish, with notes of sweet fruit notes of berry fruit and dark spice. Lean and bright, it Saranty Imports. —M.L. and mocha. Vera Food and Wine. —M.L. closes with a thorny, bramble-like flavor. Vinarium Inc. abv: 14.5% Price: $47 abv: 15.5% Price: $40 —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Bolla 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Le Bertarole 2008 Podere Le Marognole 89 Classico. This offers vibrant aromas of red 89 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Le Ragose 2005 Amarone della Valpoli­ cherry, blackberry, leather, spice and cigar box. There Modern and oak driven, this has aromas of toasted al- 88 cella Classico. This bold offering shows jam- are dark touches of resin and brown sugar that are fol- mond, chocolate, tobacco and crushed clove. The fruit my fruit aromas of blackberry pie and cherry marma- lowed by notes of smoked bacon and cured meat. This nuances tend to be on the dark and jammy side. It gains lade, followed by a chewy spice tone. The mouthfeel is is dark, masculine and concentrated. Banfi Vintners. focus on the palate thanks to its firm structure and soft, savory and sweet all at once. Frederick Wildman & —M.L. bright cola and licorice endnotes. Vinarium Inc. —M.L. Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 15.5% Price: $55

Cantina di Negrar 2009 Amarone della Vigneti Villabella 2007 Amarone della Manara 2008 Corte Manara (Amarone 89 Valpolicella Classico. For full review see 89 Valpolicella Classico. This delivers textbook 88 della Valpolicella Classico). Bright and page 10. aromas of candied berry, tobacco, cured meat, teriyaki, chewy, this has slightly muddled aromas of ripe fruit, abv: 15.5% Price: $35 cinnamon and Spanish cedar. There’s a touch of heat on cured meat, cola and tobacco. It’s very soft and lush, the finish that is cushioned by the wine’s rich density with a long, succulent finish. Emporium Nostrum. Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2007 Di Carlo and velvety mouthfeel. Wine Wave. —M.L. —M.L. 89 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 15% Price: $50 Despite its high alcohol, this is surprisingly focused. One might think that the ripe fruit overtones would ren-

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Monteci 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella AMARONE fruit, spice, licorice, molasses, brown sugar and tobacco. 88 Classico. With 24 months of careful oak aging There’s a hint of red apple on the finish, rendering it under its belt, this bold Amarone does not hold back. Dal Forno Romano 2006 Amarone della fresh and zesty. David Vincent Selection. —M.L. The intense bouquet shows tones of bitter chocolate, 95 Valpolicella. For full review see page 3. Cel- abv: 16% Price: $70 ripe cherry and exotic spice. There’s a touch of soda on lar Selection. the palate, with clove and cinnamon endnotes. La Ven- abv: 16.5% Price: $530 Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2008 Selezione An­ demmia. —M.L. 92 tonio Castagnedi (Amarone della Valpoli­ abv: 17% Price: $60 Aldegheri 1995 Amarone della Valpoli­ cella). This offers composure: a feeling of balance, in- 94 cella. Aldegheri, one of the most important tensity, harmony and rich density. The bouquet yields Monteci 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella producers in Valpolicella, has released a 17-year-old pretty tones of bold blueberry, smooth chocolate, teri- 88 Classico. Wine doesn’t get much bigger than wine that has spent eight years in large oak casks and yaki, cola, dried ginger and sweet pipe tobacco. Dalla this. Bold and opulent, with a whopping 17% alcohol, the rest in bottle. This fascinating expression offers a Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. this over-the-top bottling is aged in oak for two years glimpse of Amarone history, but does so with elegance abv: 15% Price: $45 and delivers masculine, chewy aromas of blackberry jam and grace. With the fruity sweetness long gone, this now and Indian spice. Pair it with wedges of aged pecorino boasts a tight, linear mineral note and dusty aromas of Trabucchi d’Illasi 2004 Riserva Cent’Anni cheese. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. candied fruit, licorice, cola and smoke. Terry Seitz. Cel- 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella). Showing ex- abv: 17% Price: $80 lar Selection. —M.L. treme elegance and finesse, this has notes of wild straw- abv: 15% Price: $220 berry, cassis, Indian spice, cedar, molasses, licorice Scriani 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella and even a touch of crushed granite. The mouthfeel is 88 Classico. Very plump, chewy and bold, this Roccolo Grassi 2008 Amarone della Val­ plush, rich and polished. Selected Estates of Europe masculine wine shows a cheerful and bright side thanks 94 policella. Roccolo Grassi’s wines are distin- Ltd. —M.L. to its ripe fruit aromas of blackberry, boysenberry and guished by there elegance—without diminishing inten- abv: 16% Price: $120 black cherry. Careful oak aging has produced strong sity—which is rare to find in Amarone. This shows loads Indian spice and barbecue tones. CWS Wines Ltd. of chocolate and spice flavors, with background tones Latium di Morini 2008 Campo Leòn (Am­ —M.L. of blackberry and currant. The tannins are still edgy, so 91 arone della Valpolicella). This doles out abv: 16.5% Price: $35 give it 10 more years in a cellar. Artisan Wines, Inc. Cel- multiple layers of cinnamon, red cherry, vanilla, black- lar Selection. —M.L. berry, espresso and tobacco flavors. It’s modern, chewy Monteci 2005 Costa delle Corone (Ama­ abv: 16.5% Price: $100 and bright, with slightly sweet flavors that would pair 87 rone della Valpolicella Classico). Loaded with pork and roasted fennel or steak with a creamy with blackberry preserves and cherry jam flavors, this Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2007 Campo dei Gi­ mushroom sauce. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. chewy Amarone delivers a plump, sun-drenched per- 93 gli (Amarone della Valpolicella). Expres- abv: 16.5% Price: $54 sonality, with a savory touch of cured meat in the back- sive, determined and masculine, this has intense notes ground. The texture is rich, slightly granular and gritty. of espresso bean, cinnamon, sweet fruit and toasted oak. Alpha Zeta 2006 Amarone della Valpo­ Holiday Beverage. —M.L. Give it a few more years to soften and evolve in a cellar. 90 licella. Elegant and initially timid, this opens abv: 16% Price: $NA Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.L. slowly to reveal notes of cinnamon bun, baked cherry, abv: 16% Price: $70 blackberry pie and chopped rosemary. The close is spicy Vaona 2009 Paverno (Amarone della Val­ and bright, showing structure and power. Fruit of the 87 policella Classico). Lean and streamlined, Corte Sant’ Alda 2008 Amarone della Val­ Vines, Inc. —M.L. this has bright aromas of dried rosemary, currant, cassis 92 policella. This boats balanced structure, densi- abv: 15% Price: $NA and spice. There’s isn’t too much pulpy fruit or extrac- ty and alcohol, with pretty aromatic renderings of cher- tion, but the acidity is refreshening and bright. Premi- ry and spice. It’s not too thick and chewy, but rather pol- Ca’ Rugate 2008 Amarone della Valpoli­ um Brands. —M.L. ished. It would pair nicely with breaded Milanese veal 90 cella. On the dry side, this savory wine is dark abv: 15.5% Price: $35 chops. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. and inky, but without the chewy richness that character- abv: 15.5% Price: $124 izes many wines of the region. It puts forth black pep- Villa Spinosa 2006 Anteprima (Amarone per, barbecue, leather, tobacco and blackberry flavors. 87 della Valpolicella Classico). This is packed Musella 2007 Riserva (Amarone della Massanois Imports. —M.L. tightly with candied fruit, cassis, tar, licorice and dark 92 Valpolicella). This delivers inky dark, brood- abv: 14.5% Price: $70 caramel notes. It shows its age and probably should be ing aromas of black fruit, dark spice, molasses, resin, tar consumed within the next year or two. The palate offers and cured meat. The mouthfeel is soft and chewy, with San Cassiano 2006 Amarone della Val­ a clean, polished feel. Tradizione Imports. —M.L. a sticky mocha flavor and a spicy endnote of barbecue 90 policella. Powerful, thick and concentrated, abv: 16.5% Price: $55 spice. Moonlight Wine Company. —M.L. this has plush aromas of cinnamon stick, crushed clove, abv: 16% Price: $58 toasted nut and cracked black pepper. The fruit ele- ment appears on the palate, aided by the wine’s velvety AMARONE VALPANTENA Prà 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella. El- softness. Quigley Fine Wines. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $60 Bertani 2009 Villa Arvedi (Amarone della 92 egant and austere, this opens with thick layers of Valpolicella Valpantena). For full review see chocolate fudge, toasted espresso bean, Christmas spice 90 Tedeschi 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­ page 9. and overripe berry fruit. It boasts huge flavor intensity la. Veins of sweet cinnamon and chocolate run abv: 15.5% Price: $55 and big alcohol. This is a bold Amarone that’s perfect 90 for long weekends at a ski lodge or cozy nights at home.. through the body of this thick, concentrated wine. Ex- ceedingly soft and supple, it has penetrating endnotes Tezza 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Vinifera Imports. —M.L. of cherry preserves, blackberry pie and Middle Eastern Valpantena. Notes of clove, toasted nut and abv: 16.5% Price: $NA 90 spice. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. spicy, juniper-infused bresaola open the bouquet of this abv: 16% Price: $50 hearty effort. It sports a bright, polished, savory mouth- Tenuta Chiccheri 2007 Vigneto di Campo feel, with a distant touch of sweetness. Solstars Inc. 92 delle Strie (Amarone della Valpolicella). Venturini Massimino 2007 Amarone del­ —M.L. The toasted oak aromas are still evident on the nose, so la Valpolicella. Nothing is out of place in this abv: 16.5% Price: $50 give this a few more years to unwind before opening. 90 With patience, you’ll be rewarded with tones of bright wine: It’s intense, but it’s not too strong, and the bou-

WineMag.com | 61 quet shows a balance of sweet fruit and savory spice aro- Sartori 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­ offers bright cherry and blackberry aromas. Vos Vinum mas. Panebianco. —M.L. 88 la. Sartori is one of Valpolicella’s most impor- Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $48 tant wineries thanks to its focused dedication to local abv: 12.5% Price: $20 winemaking traditions. This is not as thick or sweet as Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2008 others. In fact, it shows an elegant, understated quality, Monte del Frá 2011 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo 89 Torre del Falasco (Amarone della Valpo­ with bright cherry and spice overtones. Banfi Vintners. 86 (Valpolicella Classico). On the bouquet, red licella). This offers a glimpse onto Amarone tradition —M.L. berry, dried herb, cola and licorice notes emerge at the and heritage. Rather offering modern tones of spice and abv: 15% Price: $40 forefront. The palate shows tight freshness and soft fruit chocolate, this has ethereal aromas of wild berry, cassis, flavors. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. licorice, cola and dried apple skin. Bight acidity brings Tezza 2008 Corte Majoli (Amarone della abv: 12.5% Price: $16 up the finish. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. 88 Valpolicella). This shows a focused quality, abv: 15% Price: $40 with aromas of wild berry, medicinal herb and button Montecariano 2011 Valpolicella Classi­ mushroom. Although this thickly extracted wine deliv- 86 co. Notes of ripe fruit, prune and moist earth Cavalchina 2008 Torre d’Orti Marcellise ers density and power, it also offers balanced acidity that give this easy-going red a warm, wintery feel. The palate 89 (Amarone della Valpolicella). A wine with keeps the palate refreshed. Solstars Inc. —M.L. is medium bodied and clean, with a tart touch of acidity pronounced personality, this bold offering delivers tex- abv: 15% Price: $30 on the finish. Ribevi Wine Int. —M.L. tured, almost gritty tannins, with lush noes of sweet abv: 13% Price: $18 fruit, candied raspberry, black cherry, nutmeg, clove, Tinazzi 2008 Ca’ de’ Rocchi La Bastia chocolate and toasted almond. The palate bears spicy 88 (Amarone della Valpolicella). This has a Scriani 2011 Valpolicella Classico. Young, flavors of smoked bacon and beef jerky. Vintners Estate bold, modern touch in the form of chocolate fudge, cin- 85 bright and easy, this offers pretty aromas of for- Direct Importing. —M.L. namon and blackberry jam notes. The velvety, soft oak est fruit and white cherry. The finish is characterized by abv: 15.5% Price: $NA tones are still very intense, so give this a few more years a bitter almond note. CWS Wines Ltd. —M.L. to evolve. Opera Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Domenico Fraccaroli 2007 Grotta del abv: 15% Price: $24 89 Ninfeo (Amarone della Valpolicella). Mas- Stefano Accordini 2011 Valpolicella Clas­ culine and brawny, this is tightly packed with bold aro- Cavalchina 2008 Torre d’Orti Pastoria 85 sico. This would pair with cold cuts, oven- mas of cured meat, tobacco, blackberry jam and toasted 87 (Amarone della Valpolicella). Beautiful- roasted pizza or bruschetta with wild mushrooms. It is oak. It’s thickly extracted and modern, with a luscious, ly packaged, with a 1920s-style label, this opens with simple, clean and redolent of wild berries and tart cher- sweet, plush finish. One Vine Wines. —M.L. whopping heat and huge chocolate-fudge and cherry ry. Omniwines Distribution. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $57 syrup flavors. It would be impossible to exaggerate how abv: 12.5% Price: $10 big and bold this is. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. Gino Fasoli 2007 Alteo (Amarone della —M.L. Vigneti Villabella 2011 I Roccoli (Valpo­ 89 Valpolicella). The 17.5% alcohol is a bit much, abv: 17.5% Price: $17 85 licella Classico). Easy and cheerful, this has but the burning effect is dampened by the mouthfeel’s bright acidity and simple berry aromas. There’s a hint of extraordinary thickness and richness. It’s big and bold, forest floor and a touch of bitter almond on the finish. with intense aromas of toasted nut, vanilla, chocolate VALPOLICELLA Wine Wave. —M.L. fudge, blackberry jam and exotic spice. Chartrand Im- CLASSICO abv: 12.5% Price: $15 ports. —M.L. abv: 17.5% Price: $99 Secondo Marco 2010 Valpolicella Clas­ Buglioni 2011 Il Valpolicella (Valpolicella 87 sico. Perfectly suited to afternoon barbecues 84 Classico). This shows bright tones of wild ber- Musella 2008 Amarone della Valpolicel­ with burgers and hot dogs, this offers bright berry in- ry and cherry cola, with slight hints of barbecue smoke 89 la. The bouquet offers a wide array of aromatic tensity with background notes of spice and leather. and licorice in the background. There’s even a touch of details that still need time to integrate. Notes of spice, The mouthfeel is soft, enduring and medium bodied. medicinal herb on the short finish. Martin Scott Wines. black fruit, cola, ginger, licorice and sweet chewing to- —M.L. —M.L. bacco are all recognizable. A pungent note of dried ap- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $20 ple skin makes for a lively finish. Moonlight Wine Com- pany. —M.L. Tedeschi 2011 Lucchine (Valpolicella Giuseppe Lonardi 2011 Valpolicella Clas­ abv: 16% Price: $47 87 Classico). This is not complex or elaborate, 84 sico. This opens with cherry and bitter almond nor is it meant to be. In fact, simplicity sums it up. It’s aromas, offering a lean mouthfeel that simple and clean. Zanoni 2007 Zovo (Amarone della Valpo­ fresh and clean, and it will drink nicely with meatloaf or It’s the perfect partner to pepperoni pizza. Small Vine- 89 licella). On the bold and powerful side, this pork chops. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. yards LLC. —M.L. deals lush flavors of dark chocolate, chewy cherry, leath- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 er, tobacco and barbecue smoke. Packed with intensity and soft richness, it also delivers a fine point of fresh Terre di Leone 2010 Il Re Pazzo (Valpoli­ Rubinelli Vajol 2011 Valpolicella Clas­ acidity on the finish. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. 87 cella Classico). “Il Re Pazzo," which is Ital- 84 sico. Forest berry and white cherry aromas abv: 16.5% Price: $47 ian for “the crazy king,” delivers a cheerful berry note, are followed by slightly green notes of chopped sage with enough spice, tobacco and leather tones to give the or rosemary. This simple wine sports a lean mouthfeel, La Collina dei Ciliegi 2007 L’Amarone wine heft and staying power. The sharp note of acidity with a crisp but short finish. Ambrosia Wine Group. 88 (Amarone della Valpolicella). This marches would make this pair well with cheesy pasta. Il Pioppo. —M.L. to the beat of its own drum, presenting a different style —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 and bouquet than the average Amarone. In fact, this is abv: 13.5% Price: $20 thinner and more streamlined, with plump blackberry Santa Sofia 2010 Valpolicella Classico. and boysenberry tones that are backed by moist earth Eleva 2010 Fralibri (Valpolicella Classi­ 84 There’s a bright, crisp quality to this wine, which and tobacco accents. It shows a feminine side to one 86 co). A small percentage of Teroldego is add- is reinforced by its sharp aromas of wild berry, citrus of Italy’s most powerful reds. Lionstone International. ed to this classic Valpolicella bend to give it a slightly and apple. It’s straightforward and would pair with a —M.L. darker color and smoother mouthfeel. On the nose, it simple ham sandwich. Laird & Company. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 12.5% Price: $15

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Vaona 2011 Valpolicella Classico. Sim- Masi 2009 Serego Alighieri 650 Anniver­ toasted almond. Otherwise, the wine’s core is all fruit: 84 ple, crisp and fresh, this easy-going effort offers 88 sario (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). raspberry, cherry and currant flavors abound. CWS tight aromas of wild berry, dried herb and cola. Premi- With roots spanning back to the legacy of Dante Aligh- Wines Ltd. —M.L. um Brands. —M.L. ieri, this special estate in Valpolicella has teamed up abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 12% Price: $12 with Masi to make some of northern Italy’s best wines. This offers dark concentration, with rich berry and spice Tommasi 2010 Vigneto Rafaèl (Valpoli­ Villa Monteleone 2011 Campo Santa aromas. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. 86 cella Classico Superiore). This bright wine 84 Lena (Valpolicella Classico). Fresh, easy abv: 13.5% Price: $25 offers delicate fruit notes of wild berry and white cherry, and bright, this no-fuss red would be great with pep- backed by hints of black pepper and cola. Easy on the peroni pizza or grilled sausage. There’s a sharp note of Novaia 2009 I Cantoni (Valpolicella Clas­ palate, it shows a fresh point of acidity on the finish. Vin- acidity to cut through the fat in those foods, followed by 88 sico Superiore). This is made from partially tus LLC. —M.L. bright berry and cola flavors. Wirtz Beverage. —M.L. dried fruit (the grapes undergo the appassimento pro- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12% Price: $11 cess for 30 days) for extra intensity and extraction. In fact, the bouquet is dark and brooding, with black cher- Villa Spinosa 2010 Valpolicella Classico. ry, licorice, spice and clove-like aromas. North Berkeley VALPOLICELLA 83 Simple, bright and fresh, this has the natural Imports. —M.L. CLASSICO SUPERIORE acidity to cut through fatty meat dishes or fried moz- abv: 14% Price: $25 zarella sticks. The finish is sharp and slightly tart. Tra- RIPASSO dizione Imports. —M.L. Terre di Leone 2006 Valpolicella Classico Cesari 2009 Bosan (Valpolicella Classico abv: 12% Price: $14 88 Superiore. This hearty red delivers ripe fruit, 92 Superiore Ripasso). Among the most con- cola, barbecue spice and blackberry notes. It’s smooth, sistently high-scoring Ripassos from Valpolicella, this is soft and medium in body and length. Il Pioppo. —M.L. a lush, rich and modern rendition that’s tightly loaded VALPOLICELLA abv: 13.5% Price: $56 with cherry, spice, leather, barbecue and tobacco fla- CLASSICO SUPERIORE vors. The moutheel is smooth and round, with touches Manara 2009 Vecio Belo (Valpolicella of sweet cinnamon on the finish. Try pairing it with osso Quintarelli 2003 Valpolicella Classico 87 Classico Superiore). “Vecio Belo,” which buco. Opici Wines. —M.L. Superiore. Aged in large oak casks for six long 92 is Venetian for “old” and “pretty,” bears easy aromas abv: 14% Price: $45 years, Quintarelli’s exceptional Valpolicella blend— of ripe berry and spice, showing medium intensity which has tiny percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, and density. There’s a soft, velvety feel that gives this Le Salette 2009 I Progni (Valpolicella Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese—shows ethere- a pleasant, easy-going personality. Emporium Nostrum. 91 Classico Superiore Ripasso). This deliv- al tones of licorice, dried ginger, wild berry and spice. —M.L. ers about the same intensity and concentration as a top The texture is smooth and polished, showing a touch of abv: 13.5% Price: $18 shelf Amarone—but for half the price. It offers loads of chopped mint. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L. spice, ripe fruit, leather, tobacco and black olive flavors abv: 15% Price: $NA Monte del Frá 2010 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo that drive the long, supple mouthfeel. Vias Imports. 87 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). Made —M.L. Giuseppe Campagnola 2010 Cateri­ using grapes from the Fumane subzone of Valpolicella, abv: 13.5% Price: $27 90 na Zardini (Valpolicella Classico Supe­ this shows simple lines that are nonetheless balanced riore). This delivers impressive fullness and ripeness, and clean. Berry and spice aromas add heft to the me- David Sterza 2010 Valpolicella Classico with hearty aromas of black cherry, leather and tobacco. dium weight and persistency of the mouthfeel. Votto 90 Superiore Ripasso. This drinks like a young It’s dense and soft, with savory accents of exotic spice, Vines Importing. —M.L. Amarone but is priced like a Valpolicella red. Carefully clove and cinnamon on the finish. Superior Wines LLC. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 aged in oak for 12 months, this is supple and soft, burst- —M.L. ing with red fruit aromas and a long, spicy finish. The abv: 14% Price: $33 Sartori 2009 Vigneti di Montegradella Italian Wine Trader. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 87 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). Made abv: 14% Price: $17 Speri 2009 Vigneto Sant’Urbano (Val­ using grapes from the celebrated Montegradella cru, 89 policella Classico Superiore). The grapes this easy red offers quality fruit aromas of black cher- Speri 2010 Valpolicella Classico Supe­ used for this wine underwent the appassimento process ry, cassis and jammy blackberry. On the finish, a spice riore Ripasso. Aged for 12 months in large 90 for 21 days, and the wine was aged for 18 months in note and a light shade of tobacco are recognizable. Banfi Slavonian oak casks, this shows aromas of toasted nut French oak. The result is an intense, complex wine, with Vintners. —M.L. and sweet chocolate, backed by finer tones of wild berry red fruit, spice and tobacco flavors. Empson (USA) Ltd. abv: 13% Price: $15 and cassis. It’s soft, velvet and rich on the finish. Emp- —M.L. son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 La Collina dei Ciliegi 2010 Il Valpolicella abv: 13.5% Price: $24 86 Superiore (Valpolicella Classico Supe­ Zymè 2008 Valpolicella Classico Supe­ riore). This offers simple layers of cherry, spice, cola Venturini Massimino 2008 Semonte Alto 89 riore. This offers beautiful intensity and staying and toasted almond. The mouthfeel is soft, plush and 90 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripas­ power. Layer after layer peels away to reveal black fruit, mild. Lionstone International. —M.L. so). Some 18 months of oak aging gave this wine loads spice, leather, tobacco and cured meat notes. The soft, abv: 13% Price: $20 of density, intensity and length on the finish. It opens velvety mouthfeel would pair with pork, lamb or veal. with bright aromas of ripe berry, leather, tar, resin and Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. Rubinelli Vajol 2009 Valpolicella Classico maple syrup. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $46 86 Superiore. The bouquet opens with red cher- abv: 14% Price: $26 ry, wild blueberry and dried flower aromas. The palate La Dama 2009 Ca’ Besi (Valpolicella is medium in build, with a bright finish. Ambrosia Wine Manara 2009 Le Morete (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). 88 Dark and bold, this Group. —M.L. 89 Classico Superiore Ripasso). This has a has blackberry and ripe forest-berry flavors that are fol- abv: 14% Price: $20 ripe and succulent quality that is shaped by the wine’s lowed by spice, leather and Spanish cedar notes. It’s plump aromas of black cherry, cinnamon and Spanish edgy and perky, with good personality and length. Vera Scriani 2009 Valpolicella Classico Supe­ Food and Wine. —M.L. 86 riore. Light and pretty, this is aged in large oak abv: 14.5% Price: $22 cask for 12 months, which imparts notes of spice and

WineMag.com | 63 cedar. It shows thickness and power, and it would pair cue spice, followed by notes of candied fruit, cassis and garnet-colored wine. It has soft tannins, with loads of with cheesy pasta or meat. Emporium Nostrum. —M.L. red currant. This hearty offering would pair with glazed intensity and richness on the finish. Specialty Wine Co. abv: 14% Price: $25 ham or pork shoulder with dried plums. ID Beverage —M.L. Group. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Montecariano 2008 Valpolicella Classico abv: 13.5% Price: $20 89 Superiore Ripasso. Braised lamb shanks or Le Ragose 2008 Valpolicella Classico cotechino sausage with lentils are two pairing possibili- Buglioni 2009 Il Bugiardo (Valpolicel­ 88 Superiore Ripasso. Notes of black cherry, ties for this dense wine. It has a bright touch of acid- 88 la Classico Superiore Ripasso). “Il Bu- Christmas spice, leather, moist tobacco, honey, cedar ity that would clean the palate of those rich foods. The giardo,” which is Italian for “the liar,” is an honest and and barbecue smoke all define the bouquet. It is long aromas of red cherry and tobacco are present, but won’t plump wine, with soft berry aromas that are woven into and smooth, with a soft, velvety finish. Frederick Wild- overwhelm the food. Ribevi Wine Int. —M.L. spicy notes of clove, black pepper, leather and tobacco. man & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $32 The finish is velvety and smooth. Martin Scott Wines. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 —M.L. Nicolis 2009 Seccal (Valpolicella Classi­ abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Monte del Frá 2010 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo 89 co Superiore Ripasso). Seccal is a wine you 88 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripas­ can count on for richness, intensity and overall appeal. Domìni Veneti 2009 La Casetta (Valpoli­ so). Ripasso is a perfect wine for a chilly autumn eve- It is soft and smooth, enhanced by lively aromas of red 88 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). For ning with roasted meat and a roaring fireplace. Hearty fruit, prune, brown sugar and barbecue spice. Vignaioli. full review see page 1. and determined, this shows soft black fruit, with bar- —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22 becue spice and teriyaki sauce. Votto Vines Importing. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —M.L. Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2009 Le Cro­ abv: 14% Price: $24 Remo Farina 2010 Montecorna (Valpoli­ 88 sare (Valpolicella Classico Superiore 89 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Bal- Ripasso). Thanks to the unique indigenous varieties Monteci 2008 Tenazio (Valpolicella Clas­ ance and intensity are two of the main characteristics used and the special double-fermentation process this 88 sico Superiore Ripasso). Having aged in that distinguish this bottling. The central thrust of the wine undergoes, this delivers distinctive intensity and oak barrels for 24 months, this is not shy or bashful. It wine is carried forward by youthful berry and cherry concentration, with spicy touches of cassis and toasted bursts open with thick, dark concentration and chewy aromas, with pretty background notes of leather and almond. BelVino LLC. —M.L. jammy fruit aromas. The palate has a velvety texture sweet spice. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $29 and a touch of barbecue sweetness. Holiday Beverage. abv: 14% Price: $40 —M.L. Carlo Boscaini 2008 Zane (Valpolicella abv: 15% Price: $49 San Rustico 2009 Gaso (Valpolicella 88 Classico Superiore Ripasso). With its thick 89 Classico Superiore Ripasso). This has the density and slightly off-dry flavors of raisin, cassis, hon- Remo Farina 2010 Valpolicella Classico capacity to rev-up any meat-based meal thanks to its ar- ey and liquid smoke, this would pair with hearty coun- 88 Superiore Ripasso. Remo Farina is a stand- omatic intensity and overall spiciness. Sweet and savory try pâté or meat terrines. Its alcohol, mild tannins and out producer with a beautiful portfolio of Amarone and at the same time, it delivers black cherry, clove, smoked fresh-fruit finish would also work with those fatty foods. Ripasso wines. This expression shows youthful berry bacon, leather, cola and dried fruit aromas. John Given Tuscany Import. —M.L. tones that are backed by notes of freshly grated cinna- Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22 mon and nutmeg. Its consistency is dark and rich. Ban- abv: 13.5% Price: $29 ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. Corte San Benedetto 2008 Valpolicella abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Terre di Leone 2006 Valpolicella Clas­ 88 Classico Superiore Ripasso. Why not try 89 sico Superiore Ripasso. This offers savory this with fried porcini or mushrooms au gratin? This Secondo Marco 2009 Valpolicella Clas­ tones of smoked bacon, cured meat, licorice, candied bold wine delivers playful notes of wet earth and cured 88 sico Superiore Ripasso. This cleanses the fruit and leather. The finish is very smooth, long and meat that would match nicely with those foods. It also palate thanks to its alcohol and acidity, and aromas of polished. Il Pioppo. —M.L. has has dried fruit flavors of cassis and raspberry that red cherry, cedar and cinnamon. Pair this savory effort abv: 14% Price: $68 keep the palate refreshed and ready for the next course. with spicy marinated pork or lamb. —M.L. Global Wine Imports LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Antolini 2010 Valpolicella Classico Supe­ abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 riore Ripasso. Like all ripassos, this expres- Stefano Accordini 2010 Acinatico (Valpo­ sion undergoes a double fermentation, combining ele- Corteforte 2009 Podere Bertarole (Valpo­ 88 licella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Even ments of both superconcentrated Amarone and lighter, 88 licella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Hav- though this spends one year in oak, it shows crisp fruit fruitier Valpolicella. It’s aged for 12 months in French ing endured up to 8 months of oak aging, this offers notes of forest berry and fragrant wild strawberry, with oak to produce a smooth, sophisticated red, with back- modern touches of chocolate, spice and espresso bean oak-driven aromas of spice and nutmeg in the back- ground tones of ripe fruit, spice and dark chocolate. that sit behind fresh aromas of black cherry and plum. ground. It’s smooth and silky, with a touch of brightness Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. The medium finish shows depth and length. The Wine the finish. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Company. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $25 Arduini 2010 Valpolicella Classico Su­ Tommasi 2010 Valpolicella Classico Su­ 88 periore Ripasso. This would pair perfectly Gamba 2009 Campedel (Valpolicella 88 periore Ripasso. This expression is genuine with the sweet and savory qualities of a dish like Roman 88 Classico Superiore Ripasso). Touches of and frank without being heavy or overextracted. It pres- saltimbocca—veal scallops wrapped with prosciutto and heat and ripe cherry fruit give this bold wine a big im- ents a fine, polished texture, with bright endnotes of sage. Black cherry, cassis, dark spice and tobacco flavors pact on the nose and the palate. It delivers intense aro- black cherry, cassis, leather and Spanish cedar. Vintus all play a part in the wine’s appeal. Terra Verus Trading mas of chocolate, leather, cured meat, cedar and cola. LLC. —M.L. Co. LP. —M.L. Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Vaona 2010 Pegrandi (Valpolicella Clas­ Brunelli 2010 Pa’ Riondo (Valpolicella Il Roverone 2008 Valpolicella Classico 88 sico Superiore Ripasso). Thickly textured 88 Classico Superiore Ripasso). At the start, 88 Superiore Ripasso. Barbecue spice, clove, and dense, this has plenty of ripe fruit, tobacco, cola there are sweet touches of chestnut honey and barbe- nutmeg and dark berry fruit open the nose of this dark, and anise-like aromas. It has the power to cut through

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 cooked beans, and it would pair nicely with a heaping black cherry, cola, tobacco and spice, and a bright, firm The touch of crisp acidity, as well as the wine’s ripe, ber- serving of barley, bacon and legume soup. Premium mouthfeel. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. ry-scented bouquet also make it an appropriate pairing Brands. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA partner to those foods. Ambrosia Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 15% Price: $35 Cantina di Negrar 2010 Le Roselle (Val­ Vigneti Villabella 2009 Valpolicella Clas­ 87 policella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Santi 2010 Solane (Valpolicella Classico 88 sico Superiore Ripasso. This has the brawn For full review see page 11. 87 Superiore Ripasso). Tight and aromatically and power to pair with spicy dished such as turkey spez- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 intense, this delivers layers of ripe fruit, prune, black zatino with mustard cream sauce. The bouquet has an pepper, blackberry jelly and cinnamon. Those beauti- element of natural spice that recalls black pepper, nut- Castellani Michele & Figli 2010 San Mi­ ful tones are followed by soft, velvety tannins. Frederick meg and clove. There’s more fruit on the palate, espe- 87 chele Ca’ del Pipa (Valpolicella Classico Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. cially dried raspberry and currant notes. Wine Wave. Superiore Ripasso). This offers much of the inten- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 —M.L. sity of Amarone with some of the easy-drinking appeal abv: 14% Price: $18 of Valpolicella. Twists of ripe cherry and dried ginger Scriani 2008 Valpolicella Classico Supe­ lend it extra personality. Bedford International. —M.L. 87 riore Ripasso. This is plump wine is redolent Villa Monteleone 2010 Campo San Vito abv: 14% Price: $18 of ripe red fruit, blackberry, spice, cola and teriyaki. It 88 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripas­ will pair well with stewed beef, roasted pork with garlic so). This red showcases characteristic aromas of red Degani 2010 Cicilio (Valpolicella Classi­ and rosemary or lamb chops. CWS Wines Ltd. —M.L. fruit, cola and barbecue spice, with a soft, velvety close. 87 co Superiore Ripasso). Tightly layered and abv: 14% Price: $17 Wirtz Beverage. —M.L. opulent, this has loads of fruit intensity, with notes of abv: 13.5% Price: $20 spice and moist earth. The palate shows firm density Corte Archi 2009 Gli Archi (Valpolicella and supple smoothness. Michael R. Downey Selections. 86 Classico Superiore Ripasso). This com- Aldegheri 2009 Santambrogio (Valpoli­ —M.L. bines bright fruit aromas of cherry and raspberry with 87 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). Sant- abv: 14% Price: $20 dried tones of tobacco, earth and crushed stone. It’s ambrogio doles out cheerful tones of red berry, spice, food friendly and easy going on the finish. International cola, licorice and dried ginger. There’s a touch of barbe- Gamba 2009 Le Quare (Valpolicella Clas­ Cellars. —M.L. cue smoke that gives the wine more depth and persis- 87 sico Superiore Ripasso). Elegant and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 tency overall. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.L. streamlined, this opens with subtle tones of dried fruit, abv: 14.5% Price: $22 prune, raisin and cassis. It also delivers savory layers of Giuseppe Lonardi 2009 Valpolicella Clas­ spice and cured meat flavors, with a note of tobacco 86 sico Superiore Ripasso. Ripe, plush and Antica Corte 2010 Valpolicella Classico and a spicy pinch of white pepper. Giacopuzzi Agency. chewy, this easy-going wine has the heft and endurance 87 Superiore Ripasso. This opens with bright —M.L. to pair with cheesy lasagna or pizza. It’s soft and lush aromas of cherry, blueberry, leather, tobacco and clove. abv: 14% Price: $19 on the palate, with tame tannins. Small Vineyards LLC. The palate shows nice harmony and density that is en- —M.L. hanced by a zesty, spicy finish. Total Wine & More. La Dama 2009 Valpolicella Classico Su­ abv: 13.5% Price: $21 —M.L. 87 periore Ripasso. This is layered and complex, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 with tones of black cherry, dried apple skin, clove, white pepper and grated ginger. Like most wines from Valpo- VALPOLICELLA Antica Corte 2008 Valpolicella Classi­ licella, it offers heat and power but mellow tannins. Vera SUPERIORE 87 co Superiore Ripasso. This shows a tiny Food and Wine. —M.L. hint of tertiary aromatic evolution in the form of dried abv: 14% Price: $18 Dal Forno Romano 2007 Valpolicella Su­ fruit, tobacco leaf, dusty mineral and licorice. It deliv- 93 periore. For full review see page 6. Cellar Se- ers a smooth, polished mouthfeel as well. Total Wine & Luigi Righetti 2010 Campolieti (Valpoli­ lection. More. —M.L. 87 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso). For abv: 15% Price: $129 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 full review see page 11. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Roccolo Grassi 2009 Valpolicella Supe­ Begali 2010 La Cengia (Valpolicella Clas­ 90 riore. Roccolo Grassi takes Valpolicella Supe- 87 sico Superiore Ripasso). A real crowd Monteci 2008 Valpolicella Classico Su­ riore to the next level. While Valpolicella Superiore is pleaser, this is a full, round and soft wine, with thick 87 periore Ripasso. Dried rose petal and cassis mostly recognized as an easy-drinking red to wash down layers of dried berry, spice, leather and dark tobacco notes give this wine an almost feminine flair. Beyond with pizza or pasta, this has touches of ripe fruit and flavors. It would pair with any meat-based pasta dish. those delicate tones are hearty layers of prune, black exotic spice that lend extra sophistication, elegance and Siema LLC. —M.L. cherry and pipe tobacco flavors. Soft, velvety tannins texture. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 complete the pretty picture. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 15% Price: $NA Bolla 2010 Le Poiane (Valpolicella Clas­ Tenuta Chiccheri 2007 Vigneto di Campo 87 sico Superiore Ripasso). This has zest, Recchia 2008 Le Muraie (Valpolicella 89 delle Strie (Valpolicella Superiore). This is personality and depth, with layers of red fruit, spice, 87 Classico Superiore Ripasso). A touch of an elegant, focused wine that shows balanced aromas of leather, pipe tobacco and dried rosemary emerge that berry sweetness is in the bouquet and on the palate, fruit and spice, with touches of espresso and tobacco in emerge on the bouquet. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. followed by crushed clove and cinnamon stick notes. the background. Its personality is austere and mascu- abv: 14% Price: $17 You can taste the air-dried fruit due to the flavors of line, with natural heft and richness. David Vincent Se- prune and currant. Shaw-Ross International Importers. lection. —M.L. Bolla 2009 Valpolicella Classico Supe­ —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 87 riore Ripasso. This historic and ground- abv: 14% Price: $19 breaking brand has been once again revamped and Latium di Morini 2009 Campo Prognài renewed. Among its latest hits is this simple, but per- Rubinelli Vajol 2009 Valpolicella Classi­ 88 (Valpolicella Superiore). Definitely a big suasively food-friendly ripasso, which offers aromas of 87 co Superiore Ripasso. On the hot and al- wine, this vineyard-designated Valpolicella has a dark coholic side, this powerful wine has the muscle to cut garnet color and thick aromas of ripe fruit, spice and through cheeses, rich cream sauces or fatty stewed beef.

WineMag.com | 65 tobacco. The finish is long and smooth. Jan D’Amore Musella 2010 Valpolicella Superiore. The Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2010 Wines. —M.L. 85 traditional grapes of Valpolicella (Corvina, Ron- 88 Torre del Falasco (Valpolicella Superiore abv: 15% Price: $24 dinella and Molinara) are blended with 10% Barbera, Ripasso). Ripasso Torre del Falasco is among the giving this an added touch of crisp acidity. The simple proud achievements of this important wine co-op. It de- Massimago 2010 Valpolicella Superiore. nose shows notes of wild berry, toasted almond and cola. livers sweet fruit and spice aromas that are set against 88 Very attractive, linear and clean, this Valpolicel- Moonlight Wine Company. —M.L. savory tones of bresaola and smoked bacon. Omniwines la Superiore has 15% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. abv: 13% Price: $18 Distribution. —M.L. The wine is firm and composed, with bright blackberry abv: 14% Price: $25 and lingering spice overtones. 55 Degrees. —M.L. Zanoni 2008 Valpolicella Superiore. This abv: 14.5% Price: $24 85 is redolent of red cherry, spice, leather and Ca’ Rugate 2009 Valpolicella Superiore dried apple skin, with a sharp touch of medicinal herb 87 Ripasso. Aged partially in wood and stain- Pieropan 2009 Ruberpan (Valpolicella on the finish. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. less steel, this delivers a healthy dose of plump, ripe red 88 Superiore). Made from the producer of some abv: 14.5% Price: $24 fruit. Notes of cherry, plum, red currant and cassis are of the greatest Soave white wines, this wine shows simi- followed by soft tannins and a spicy touch of white pep- lar focus and attention to detail. It’s well executed, of- per. Saranty Imports. —M.L. fering defined berry tones that are enhanced by notes VALPOLICELLA abv: 14% Price: $32 of spice, chocolate and soft leather. Empson (USA) Ltd. SUPERIORE RIPASSO —M.L. Domenico Fraccaroli 2009 Grotta del abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Prà 2010 Morandina (Valpolicella Supe­ 87 Ninfeo (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). 90 riore Ripasso). On the palate, this feels vel- A great red meat wine because of its distinctive den- Prà 2010 Morandina (Valpolicella Supe­ vety and smooth thanks to its rich texture and enduring sity, extraction and power, this is redolent of red fruit, 88 riore). This shows smooth density and bright flavors. The nose is characterized by black cherry, cola, prune and plum. It finishes with an array of zesty spice fruit flavors of blueberry and dried raspberry, with soft licorice, espresso and tobacco notes Vinifera Imports. nuances that range from ginger to crushed clove. One hints of cinnamon and dark chocolate. The wine’s fine —M.L. Vine Wines. —M.L. texture and freshness make it a perfect partner to fet- abv: 15.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $27 tuccine with meat sauce and grated pecorino cheese. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Zenato 2009 Ripassa (Valpolicella Supe­ La Collina dei Ciliegi 2007 Il Valpolicel­ abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 riore Ripasso). The name "Ripassa" refers to 87 la Ripasso Superiore (Valpolicella Supe­ the unique winemaking technique, ripasso, in which the riore Ripasso). Having spent many months in oak, Trabucchi d’Illasi 2007 Terra di San Co­ wine undergoes a double fermentation for increased this hearty bottling offers masculine aromas of choco- 88 lombano (Valpolicella Superiore). Small concentration and density. This is bold, powerful and late, toasted nut, ripe blackberry, jammy fruit, spice and percentages of Croatina, Oseleta and Forsellina grapes tightly packed with cherry and exotic spice aromas. leather. The wine’s heat and strength are followed by are added to this traditional Valpolicella blend. It’s Winebow. —M.L. supple tannins. Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. bright and fruity, with cherry and blueberry notes that abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $35 are backed by a touch of smooth spice and a polished finish. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. Cesari 2010 Mara (Valpolicella Superiore Musella 2009 Valpolicella Superiore Ri­ abv: 14% Price: $27 89 Ripasso). This offers a slightly less formal and 87 passo. To add a touch of much-needed fresh- austere expression compared to Cesari’s Bosan. Perfect ness and acidity, a small percentage of Barbera is added Ca’ Rugate 2010 Campo Lavei (Valpoli­ for chicken or pork roast, this delivers fresh acidity be- to this traditional blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Mo- 87 cella Superiore). This opens with bright fruit yond the tones of cherry, cola, leather and barbecue linara. The quality of fruit is very nice and resembles notes of blueberry and wild cherry, followed by savory spice. Opici Wines. —M.L. cherry, cassis and prune. Moonlight Wine Company. touches of exotic spice and green tea. It offers heft and abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —M.L. endurance without the chewy thickness found in some abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Amarone. Massanois Imports. —M.L. Tedeschi 2010 Capitel San Rocco (Valpo­ abv: 14% Price: $30 89 licella Superiore Ripasso). Tedeschi is one Pasqua 2010 Black Label (Valpolicella of the benchmark producers of Valpolicella. This wine is 87 Superiore Ripasso). With some 30,000 cas- Cavalchina 2009 Torre d’Orti Morari (Val­ bursting with fresh fruit intensity and lush background es produced, this well-distributed wine shows broad ap- 87 policella Superiore). A bright streak of fresh- notes of spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco. Dreyfus, peal with its bright cherry and blackberry aromas that ness comes forth thanks to the aromas of forest berry, Ashby & Co. —M.L. are backed by touches of leather, tar, licorice and dried cherry, red currant and spice. It shows intensity and abv: 14% Price: $28 ginger. The wine is soft and supple on the finish, with a power on the finish, with enough heat to cut through touch of chewy sweetness. Pasqua U.S.A LLC. —M.L. creamy foods or cheeses. Vintners Estate Direct Im- Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2009 Monti Garbi abv: 13.5% Price: $15 porting. —M.L. 89 (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). This is abv: 16% Price: $25 thickly layered with ripe fruit, spice, leather, cedar and Pietro Zardini 2008 Austero (Valpolicella savory spice aromas. Its soft, velvety texture would pair 87 Superiore Ripasso). This has a touch of aus- San Cassiano 2008 Valpolicella Supe­ with pork, veal or grilled sausage. Dalla Terra Winery terity, with savory spice, cured meat and teriyaki aro- 86 riore. Lasagna, meat-filled ravioli or mushroom Direct. —M.L. mas. The palate bursts with bright red fruit and smooth risotto would make good pairing partners to this mild abv: 14% Price: $18 tannins. J.A.O. Wine Imports. —M.L. and crisp red. It offers notes of red berry, almond and abv: 14% Price: $20 cola. Quigley Fine Wines. —M.L. Bertani 2010 Secco Bertani (Valpolicella abv: 14.5% Price: $36 88 Superiore Ripasso). One of Italy’s great food Santa Sofia 2009 Valpolicella Superiore wines (such as with duck, guinea fowl, rabbit or veal), 87 Ripasso. Santa Sofia is a celebrated estate Zenato 2009 Valpolicella Superiore. This Secco Bertani is an institution all its own. This bold ef- with its very own landmark villa that was designed by 86 shows easy characteristics of red cherry, bitter fort opens with playful notes of spice and leather that architect Andrea Palladio. That beautiful aesthetic is almond, cola and spice, with a bright and cleansing fin- are set against dark berry and cassis accents. The tannic matched by its production of fine wines. This elegant ish. It would pair nicely with pasta or pizza. Winebow. structure is mild, but the texture is generous and endur- Editors’ Choice. —M.L. ing. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $18

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 wine has dark fruit aromas and spicy flavors. Laird & Zymè 2011 Rêverie (Valpolicella). With Simple, bright and tart, this easy red will pair with sim- Company. —M.L. 86 low alcohol and an easy disposition, this is the ple meat or pasta dishes. The bouquet offers red berry abv: 13.5% Price: $24 kind of red wine you can enjoy with pizza. The bouquet and cola aromas, with a spicy touch of dried ginger. Om- is redolent of red berry, cola and dried apple skin. Ban- niwines Distribution. —M.L. Tinazzi 2010 Ca’ de’ Rocchi Monterè ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 87 (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). Pork abv: 11.5% Price: $27 marinated in teriyaki sauce or spicy tandoori chicken Cavalchina 2009 Torre d’Orti (Valpolicel­ would pair nicely with this hearty offering. It has a gen- Ca’ Rugate 2011 Rio Albo (Valpolicella). 86 la Ripasso). This simple red is a great food erous accent of spicy clove, black pepper and carda- 85 Rio This opens with fresh aromas of wild straw- wine, and it would pair with just about anything con- mom that is followed by supple tannins. Opera Wine berry and blueberry, embellished by tiny accents of taining meat or cheese. It has heft and determination, Imports. —M.L. spice and bitter almond. There’s even a savory note of with bright accents of cherry, red rose and dried apple. abv: 14% Price: $NA rosemary oil on the finish. Massanois Imports. —M.L. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $14 Tinazzi 2009 Tenuta Valleselle Rover­ 87 tondo (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso). Domenico Fraccaroli 2011 Grotta del Gino Fasoli 2010 La Corte del Pozzo (Val­ This offers hearty fruit layers of black cherry, prune and 85 Ninfeo (Valpolicella). Easy and fresh, this 86 policella Ripasso). Toasty and bright, this plum, followed by notes of spice, leather and cola. It ruby-colored wine opens with cherry, blackberry and garnet-colored wine offers fresh cherry and roasted nut shows power and determination on the finish, with soft, dried rose aromas. It’s clean and crisp, with a simple fin- aromas that balance each other nicely. The wine’s medi- velvety tannins. Opera Wine Imports. —M.L. ish. One Vine Wines. —M.L. um body is backed by a touch of heat and a note of tangy abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $19 exotic spice. Chartrand Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $25 Zeni 2010 Marogne (Valpolicella Supe­ Massimago 2011 Valpolicella. Light in 86 riore Ripasso). The bouquet opens with 85 weight, appearance and intensity, this crisp red Tezza 2010 Ma Roat (Valpolicella Ripas­ touches of candied fruit, lemon zest and cola, followed delivers bright berry fruit and a distant touch of toasted 86 so). Tangy and savory, this has notes of spice, by red fruit and spice notes. It has a thick, velvety almond. Pair it with spaghetti and meat sauce. 55 De- ripe berry, blackberry pie, leather and moist earth. The mouthfeel. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. grees. —M.L. palate is smooth, with a polished feel. Solstars Inc. Best abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 San Cassiano 2010 Valpolicella. This no- VALPOLICELLA 84 fuss Valpolicella delivers light cherry and al- Le Bertarole 2009 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico. Corte Sant’ Alda 2011 Ca’ Fiui (Valpoli­ mond flavors. It’s a wine to pair with a late-evening ham 86 This simple wine delivers currant, sandwich or with Chinese food. Quigley Fine Wines. dried raspberry and ginger aromas. Medium in build cella). Made using organically farmed fruit, 86 —M.L. and in intensity, it offers toasted accents on the finish. this is a simple and fruity red that would pair with abv: 13% Price: $18 Vinarium Inc. —M.L. chicken curry or pork roast. The flavors are reminiscent abv: 13.5% Price: $15 of wild berry, cola and chopped herb. Domaine Select Zanoni 2010 Valpolicella. White cherry, Wine Estates. —M.L. raspberry, almond skin and cola describe the abv: 12.5% Price: $24 84 simple bouquet of this easy-going red. On the palate, it’s VENETO crisp and lean. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. Gino Fasoli 2010 La Corte del Pozzo (Val­ Maculan 2009 Fratta (Veneto). A blend of abv: 13% Price: $14 86 policella). This bottling offers more density 93 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, this and heft than usually found in this category of Italian is a landmark bottling because many years ago it dem- Zeni 2010 Valpolicella. This easy wine would reds. The bouquet offers bright berry, cherry, leather onstrated that great international-style wines could be pair with a roast chicken or a pork chop. The and spice notes. Chartrand Imports. —M.L. 84 made elsewhere in Italy—not only in Tuscany. A cele- flavors are redolent of wild berry, white cherry, cola and abv: 14% Price: $20 brated star of the Veneto, this oak-aged red offers enor- black pepper. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 mous density and intensity, with soft, velvety layers and Latium di Morini 2011 Latium (Valpolicel­ bright aromas of red fruit, spice and dried sage. The fin- 86 la). Simple and fresh, this delivers easy aromas ish is characterized by savory, herbal notes that are fresh of cherry, wild berry, cola and bitter almond skin. It’s VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO and tantalizing. Winebow. —M.L. lean and crisp, with a short, bright finish. Jan D’Amore abv: 14.5% Price: $100 Wines. —M.L. La Collina dei Ciliegi 2010 Il Valpolicella abv: 13% Price: $14 87 Ripasso (Valpolicella Ripasso). An hon- De Stefani 2008 Carmerosso Carmenère est rendition of Valpolicella Ripasso, this offers intense 90 (Veneto). This expression of Carmenère shows Speri 2010 La Roverina (Valpolicella). loads of fruit and spice that play off each other in an soft, plush aromas of blackberry and cherry fruit. The 86 Fresh, and easy, this is the perfect easy-drinking even and balanced way. The soft finish is driven by tones wine is aged in oak for two years, rendering rich flavors wine to enjoy with weeknight dinners. It offers blue- of red cherry, blackberry, clove and white pepper. Lion- of espresso and dark chocolate, and a firm structure. berry, cherry and white almond aromas. Empson (USA) stone International. —M.L. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Montresor 2010 Capitel della Crosara De Stefani 2009 Solèr (Veneto). A blend of Trabucchi d’Illasi 2010 Le Mariette (Val­ 87 (Valpolicella Ripasso). This is definitely a 88 equal parts Marzemino, Merlot, Cabernet Sau- 86 policella). This opens with easy aromas of wild wine meant to drink in the winter. It shows thick extrac- vignon and Refosco, this opens with jammy aromas of berry, cherry, licorice and liquid smoke. The mouthfeel tion, mellow tannins and loads of spice and ripe fruit blackberry, Indian spice and sun-ripened cherry. There is smooth, crisp and medium in build. Selected Estates flavors. Total Wine & More. —M.L. is a nice touch of freshness on the finish, with a subtle of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $16 accent of bitter almond. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $37 Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2010 86 Torre del Falasco (Valpolicella Ripasso).

WineMag.com | 67 De Stefani 2008 Plavis Merlot (Veneto). Fabiano 2007 Vajo (Rosso del Veronese). Terras Gauda 2011 O Rosal Albariño 88 A pure expression of Merlot, this shows loads 88 A thick and chewy blend of Corvina, Merlot and 89 (Rías Baixas). For full review see page 10. of red berry fruit, with a touch of rosemary oil or green Cabernet Sauvignon, this is thickly extracted and bold abv: 12.5% Price: $24 herb. Aged for 12 months in oak, it is soft, sturdy, fruity in style, with a dark, inky color and loads of jammy black and genuine. Holiday Beverage. —M.L. fruit. Aged for two years in oak, it shows a succulent Adegas Gran Vinum 2011 Mar de Viñas abv: 13.5% Price: $35 sweetness on the long, velvety finish. Admiral Imports. 87 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Minerally and tight —M.L. on the nose, this has a modest level of white fruit and La di Motte 2010 Refosco (Veneto). A pure abv: 13.5% Price: $32 flower aromas. It feels angular and light, with tangy ac- 88 expression of Refosco, this runs heavy on prune, ids pushing lemon and pineapple flavors. Crisp but lean plum and dark berry aromas. Its bold aromatic intensity Masi 2009 Campofiorin (Rosso del Ve­ on the finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. is backed by touches of acidity and smooth tannins. Try 88 ronese). The great darling of Valpolicella, abv: 12.5% Price: $17 it with savory meats, like lamb. Saranty Imports. —M.L. Campofiorin is a ripasso-style red that undergoes a abv: 13% Price: $NA special double fermentation, although the label does Lícia 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Open, not mention "ripasso." It shows impressive personality 87 fresh and peachy on the nose, becoming citrusy De Stefani 2008 Terre Nobili (Veneto). and complexity, with spice, ripe fruit, leather and dried and leaning toward the acidic side on the palate. Fla- 87 "Terre Nobili," which is Italian for "noble lands," ginger aromas. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ vors of tangerine, lemon and orange keep it moving, and is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Choice. —M.L. the finish, while short, is fresh and cleansing. Winebow. Refosco. Aged for 24 months in oak, it opens with bright abv: 13% Price: $18 —M.S. fruit intensity, bearing notes of spice, rosemary and to- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 bacco. The mouthfeel is acidic, making it a good choice Fabiano 2009 Negraro Corvina (Ve­ to enjoy with cheesy lasagna with béchamel sauce. Holi- 87 ronese). A pure expression of Valpolicella’s Terras Gauda 2011 Abadia de San day Beverage. —M.L. workhorse grape, Corvina, this wine sees 12 months of 87 Campio Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full abv: 13.5% Price: $69 wood aging for extra spice and softness. It finishes with review see page 12. chewy black fruit, with a cola note and a subtle touch of abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Maculan 2010 Brentino (Veneto). A blend sour cherry. Admiral Imports. —M.L. 87 of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this has abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Lagar de Costa 2010 Albariño (Rías Baix­ bright cherry fruit, with light touches of spice and toast- 85 as). The oyster and clam shell aromas are brin- ed almond. The simple, but velvety mouthfeel will work Tommasi 2010 Arele (Veronese). This ex- ey to say the least. The palate is acidic and scouring, with curry chicken or spicy beef. Winebow. —M.L. 87 citing blend of Oseleta and Merlot (the grapes with lime, lemon and green melon flavors. It turns pithy abv: 13.5% Price: $18 are partially air dried for extra concentration) offers a on the finish, then a little bitter. Novo Imports. —M.S. bright cherry aroma, with notes of leather and dried abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Maculan 2009 Brentino (Veneto). Maculan rosemary. There’s are touches of humus and dried gin- 87 is celebrated for its excellent expressions of in- ger as well. Vintus LLC. —M.L. Ramón Bilbao 2011 Valiñas Albariño ternational grapes grown in the Veneto. This easy blend abv: 13% Price: $17 85 (Rías Baixas). Straightforward peach aromas of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon offers a cheerful come with a stalky, grassy side. It feels zesty, spritzy and bouquet of cherry fruit and mild exotic spice. Winebow. citric, then tastes almost entirely of orange and tanger- —M.L. SPAIN ine, with a dry finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 —M.S. RÍAS BAIXAS abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Fabiano 2009 Argillaia Intenso Caber­ 85 net Sauvignon (Veneto). This pure Caber- As Laxas 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Viña Ludy 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). net Sauvignon is light and lean in appearance, with a 90 Nice as always, this has notes of angel food 85 Saline, mineral, match stick and tropical fruit slightly sour note on the finish. It offers easy aromas of cake, orange blossom and peach on the bouquet. It aromas define the bouquet. It feels plump but flat, with ripe fruit, spice, black pepper and dried herb. Admiral feels smooth and shows elegance, delivering mineral- maderized flavors of white fruits that feature bitterness Imports. —M.L. ly peach and citrus flavors. It holds form on the finish, and not much kick. It’s fleshy, remaining slightly bitter abv: 13% Price: $NA which locks in on the wine’s peach and citrus character. on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 VERONESE Palacio de Fefiñanes 2011 Albariño de RUEDA Tommasi 2010 Crearo della Conca d’Oro Fefiñanes (Rías Baixas). Clean, crisp, cut, (Veronese). 90 Blanco Nieva 2011 Pie Franco Verdejo 90 This is a blend of Corvina, Osele- this has a minerally white-fruit nose. It’s elegant and (Rueda). This gets going with apple, peach ta and Cabernet Franc that shows some of the intensity chiseled on the palate, with bright peach and nectar- 92 and mineral aromas that are pure and alluring. It feels of an Amarone, but with more defined tannic structure ine flavors that carry onto a tight, dry, flinty finish. An lifted but a little creamy, with green banana, lime, or- on the finish. The bouquet offers blackberry and dark elegant, lifted Albariño with a lightness of being. Kysela ange and kiwi flavors. Solid and long on the finish; this spice. Vintus LLC. —M.L. Père et Fils. —M.S. 13% $27 is exemplary unoaked Verdejo. Frontier Wine Imports. abv: Price: abv: 12.5% Price: $26 Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 12.5% $28 Le Ragose 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Adegas Gran Vinum 2010 Gran Vinum abv: Price: (Rosso del Veronese). 89 A pure expression Albariño (Rías Baixas). For a 2010, this is 89 Shaya 2010 Habis Old Vines Verdejo of Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with aromas of dark holding form. It smells mature but fresh, with plenty of (Rueda). Elegant and elevated, this shows fine coffee, pulpy blackberry, leather and light shadings of sea influence and white fruit aromas. It feels nice, lifted 91 integration of fruit and oak on the nose. It feels creamy, exotic spice. There’s a fresh note of green herb that’s and lively, with lemon, citrus and green apple flavors. A with barrel toast, dry spice and melon flavors. It is firm, backed by structure and density. Frederick Wildman & pinch of pithy bitterness infiltrates the finish, but over- healthy and structured on the finish courtesy of barrel Sons, Ltd. —M.L. all this is a fine Albariño to drink very soon. Grapes of abv: 14% Price: $35 fermentation and aging. A Burgundian facsimile from Spain. —M.S. Rueda. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $29

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Blanco Nieva 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). This It spreads out on the finish, tasting spicy and cidery. but good. It’s competent in every way, with clarity and 89 is waxy on the nose, with the aromatic spunk of Grapes of Spain. —M.S. freshness. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. nettle and sweaty citrus. It feels fresh, minerally and abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 11.5% Price: $18 zesty, with citrus, apple and green herb flavors. It’s solid, smooth and elegant on the finish, which turns slightly El Pensador 2011 Verdejo (Vino de la Bodegas Antaño NV Añ Vino Espumoso bitter as it concludes. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 86 Tierra de Castilla y León). Fresh, crisp and 86 de Calidad Brut Nature Verdejo (Rueda). abv: 12.5% Price: $22 minerally on the nose, this has green apple and melon This smells yeasty and peachy, with a maderized quality aromas. It feels fresh, juicy, light and refreshing, with to the bouquet. It tastes cidery and citrusy, with a light Shaya 2011 Old Vines Verdejo (Rueda). high-toned white-fruit flavors as well as notes of grape- body and not much in the way of bubbles or vitality. The 88 The apple and lime aromas are simple yet in- fruit, herb and lime. Clean on the finish. Winery Ex- flavors of apple, lemon and peach are fair and fleshy. viting. It feels round and mellow, maybe a bit low in change. —M.S. Tastes pithy on the finish. ENYE Distribution Group, acidity. The flavors of banana, vanilla bean and pear are abv: 12% Price: $13 LLC. —M.S. friendly, while the finish is smooth and bears a tropical abv: 12.5% Price: $35 flavor. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. Storks’ Tower 2011 Sauvignon Blanc- abv: 14% Price: $15 86 Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y El Xamfrà NV Mercat Brut Nature (Cava). León). Crisp and likable, this smells stony and snappy, 86 Apple and dry spice aromas comprise the re- Hermanos Lurton 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). with spring pea, passion fruit and citrus aromas. It feels strained but pleasant bouquet. It feels good, healthy 87 The light apple and mild citrus aromas are nice. well cut, with green bean, grass and citrus flavors. While and dry as a bone, with briney white-fruit flavors. It It feels fresh and medium in intensity, with notes of it hints at being vegetal, it maintains a consistent white- tastes mildly pickled on the finish, but it shows good feel peach, apple, pear and citrus in equal, moderate doses. fruit and citrus profile. HAB North America.Best Buy. and balance. Valkyrie Selections. —M.S. Short, lemony and fresh on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $12 Sàniger NV Brut Nature Reserva (Cava). Volteo 2011 Verdejo-Sauvignon Blanc 86 Dusty and straightforward on the nose, this has Shaya 2011 Arindo Verdejo (Rueda). For 86 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). aromas of pear and apple. It feels simple, tight and not 87 full review see page 13. Best Buy. Clean, minerally and smells of tarragon, fresh bell pep- overly evolved, with a peach flavor that’s not too com- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 per and lemony citrus. Feels lively, with pink grapefruit, plex. Zesty in feel, this tastes a bit like vitamins and nuts passion fruit, lime and generic sweetness for flavors. A on the finish. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. Verderol 2011 Srping in a Bottle Verdejo lip-smacking wine that’s varietally accurate. 60% Verde- abv: 11.5% Price: $12 86 (Rueda). This feels mildly citric, with limited jo and 40% SB. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best portions of lemon, apple and peach making up the fla- Buy. —M.S. Segura Viudas NV Extra Dry (Cava). Dry vor profile. Mild on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. abv: 13% Price: $10 86 apple and crisp citrus aromas come with a touch —M.S. of sweet grass. It has lively lemon-lime and apple fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Altozano 2010 Finca Constancia Verde­ vors, and it seems to have beeen dosed on the sweeter 84 jo-Sauvignon Blanc (Toledo). This smells side of extra dry. Overall, it’s fruity, friendly and likable. Naia 2010 Ducado de Altan Verdejo (Rue­ a bit wayward and sulfuric, but it’s juicy and acidic on Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 85 da). This starts with some Verdejo sweat and the tongue, with lemony and oily, nutty flavors. It holds abv: 12% Price: $10 funk on the nose, and while those notes don’t last, the steady on the finish, which is lemony in character. San bouquet doesn’t improve dramatically with airing. It Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Extra Dry feels soft and basic, with melon and lettuce flavors. Falls abv: 13% Price: $10 85 (Cava). Forward and direct up front, this has off a bit on the finish, which tastes a bit briney. Aviva a yeasty but fresh apple aroma. It feels clean and ready, Vino. —M.S. Bodegas Luzón 2011 Luzón Blanco Ma­ with lemon-lime and kiwi flavors that lead to a fresh fin- abv: 13% Price: $13 82 cabeo (Jumilla). The nose offers white bread ish. This is textbook Cava with some sweetness. Freix- and pancake aromas. It feels angular and acidic, with enet USA. —M.S. Pico Cuadro 2010 La Casa de las Esen­ dry, crisp apple and citrus flavors that finish in a corny, abv: 12% Price: $12 85 cias Verdejo (Rueda). The aromas are slight- stalky fashion. Aviva Vino. —M.S. ly maderized and soft, with hints of baked apple and abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Jaume Serra 2007 Cristalino Brut Na­ corn cake. It feels plump, mealy and a touch flat, with 85 ture (Cava). Golden in color, this has bready nectarine and wheat flavors. Chunky and peachy on the Pagos del Rey 2011 Diego de Almagro baked-apple aromas. It feels plump and soft for a brut finish, this is starting to fade. Novo Imports. —M.S. 82 Airen (Valdepeñas). This is neutral on the nature, with a maderized quality to the palate. It tastes abv: 13% Price: $12 nose except for a hint of white flower and peach. It’s extremely dry, like seltzer water blended with citrus, al- snappy but basic feeling, with a stalky apple flavor. It mond and butterscotch. It continues on the same flavor Loess 2010 Blanco Verdejo (Rueda). The finishes dry and lemony, with a corny flavor. Aidil Wines plane throughout the finish. Colección Internacional 84 bouquet is dry, briney and otherwise neutral. It & Liquor Inc. —M.S. del Vino. —M.S. feels wide and lemony, with flavors of citrus and white abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 fruits. It remains mildly pickled on the finish. Enotrends LLC. —M.S. Segura Viudas NV Aria Estate Extra Dry abv: 12.5% Price: $18 SPARKLING WINES 85 (Cava). Starts out with stalky, corny aromas that are typical of sweet Cavas. It feels candied and al- Princesa NV Brut Nature (Cava). For full most cloying, but adequate acidity comes to the rescue. OTHER WHITE WINES 88 review see page 11. abv: 11.5% Price: $19 Flavors of melon, mango and kiwi are sweet, while the Finca Torremilanos 2010 Peñalba López finish suggests corn cakes and tropical fruits. Freixenet 87 Vino Blanco (Vino de la Tierra de Castil­ Maria Casanovas NV Brut de Brut Reser­ USA. —M.S. la y León). This small-production, barrel-fermented 87 va (Cava). This smells yeasty without much abv: 12% Price: $14 blend of white Tempranillo and Sauvignon Blanc smells overt fruit on the nose. It feels crisp, citrusy and healthy, Jaume Serra NV Cristalino Extra-Dry neutral and fresh except for some barrel notes. It has with citrus and apple flavors that register as standard (Cava). Dusty and yeasty on the nose, this has a mix of spice, toast, citrus, almond and melon flavors. 83 an eggy, sweaty note. It feels good but drifts a bit on

WineMag.com | 69 the palate, while the flavors run stalky and sweet, with well lifted, with a light but fresh herbal accent. HAB aromas. It feels crisp and fresh, with a blend of cherry, a touch of apple for crispness. Colección Internacional North America. —M.S. strawberry and herb flavors. It’s spicy, lively, fresh and del Vino. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 clean on the finish. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Federico Paternina 2006 Clisos Reserva Dominio de la Vega NV Artemayor Brut 89 Tempranillo (Rioja). Dark in color and dense Ramón Bilbao 2008 Crianza Tempranillo 82 Nature (Cava). Yeasty, briney and strange on on the nose, this has aromas of pastry, blackberry, jam- 86 (Rioja). Initially, this may smell a bit hot and the nose, this feels clunky, with oily citrus and nut-driv- my plum and even an exotic note. It feels chewy and sol- leafy, but with time that quality settles. It feels narrow, en flavors. It’s bitter on the finish, and it doesn’t show id, with a full-bodied texture and deep flavors of black tannic and condensed, with roasted flavors of red berry, much in the way of mouthfeel. A blend of Chardonnay cherry and prune. It comes up a bit short and clipped on spice and chocolate. The finish offers a mix of citrus, red and Macabeo. A.W. Direct. —M.S. the finish. Novo Imports. —M.S. berry and herb flavors. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. abv: 12% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Ramón Bilbao 2008 Limited Edition Cri­ ROSÉ 89 anza (Rioja). This is leathery and earthy up Federico Paternina 2008 Clisos Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja). Bodegas Medina 2011 Jaloco Rosado front, with cherry and berry aromas that come with a 85 This smells like fresh flower accent. It feels snappy, alert and slightly citrusy, pavement at first, with gritty black-fruit and burnt leaf Rosé (Ribera del Guadiana). This is on its 80 with raspberry, red plum and vanilla flavors. It’s relative- notes. The palate feels edgy, with a spotty red-fruit fla- last legs. It smells maderized, flat and candied, then ly short and choppy on the finish, but it’s fresh, with the vor that’s matched with notes of resiny oak and vanilla. feels heavy and drying. It tastes and smells old, finishing proper amount of oak. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. It finishes in a similar fashion. Novo Imports and Aidil bitter. Rio Tinto Export Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10 —M.S. Wines & Liquors. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $14 RIOJA Bodegas Palacio 2008 Cosme Palacio 88 1894 (Rioja). A heavy rush of black coffee is RIBERA DEL DUERO Viñamada 2006 Reserva (Rioja). More tra- the key aroma, and with that comes notes of rustic bar- Alidis 2006 Gran Reserva (Ribera del Du­ ditional than modern in style, this has aromas of rel char and black fruit. It delivers a solid structure and 91 ero). This is earthy, cool and foresty on the bou- citrus, herb, dry oak and medium-weight fruit. It feels a firm foundation, along with sticky tannins and oak- 93 quet, with a coconut note that accents the wine’s deep crisp and tightly focused, with a complex palate that of- based resin. It tastes dark, with baked plum, tobacco berry aromas. It feels smooth and nicely balanced, with fers notes of berries, chocolate and herbs. It finishes and spice. This is creamy, charred and oaky from start modest tannins and toasty, oaky flavors of spiced black- long, with a leathery, meaty element that lends gravitas to finish. HAB North America. —M.S. berry and licorice. Smooth and subtle on the finish, this to the wine. Drink now–2016. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 is ripe, stylish and ready to drink now. Hidalgo Imports, —M.S. LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $30 Burgo Viejo 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Jam- abv: 14% Price: $60 88 my strawberry, crushed raspberry and mineral Ysios 2007 Reserva Edición Limitada aromas define the bouquet. The palate is lifted by good Alidis 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). (Rioja). Charred and smoky on first take, this acidity, while flavors of vanilla and tomato accent the 91 Smooth and lightly roasted on the bouquet, this has plenty of upfront oak that adds a toasty quality to raspberry and plum fruits. Fresh and subtle on the fin- 91 has tobacco, cola, fine oak and earthy berry aromas. It the core plum and berry aromas. It feels full, round and ish, this is a middleweight wine with a juicy disposition. feels generous but a little soft and syrupy, with raisin, pure, with dark, slightly balsamic-like flavors of baked Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. licorice and savory baked-fruit flavors. The finish is long berry and earth. It’s smooth, mild and unobtrusive on abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and continues to be savory tasting. Drink now–2014. the finish. Drink now–2016. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50 Finca La Emperatriz 2007 Reserva (Rio­ abv: 14% Price: $56 88 ja). Full, ripe and lusty, this has notes of licorice Viña Valoria 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Smooth and grit on the bouquet. It feels fresh and lively, with Pago de Sangara 2006 Selección Espe­ and pure up front, this has notes of lemon peel enough richness and weight for balance. It tastes of bal- 90 cial Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). This and tobacco on the bouquet. Fresh, complete and racy samic-infused berry and spice, with an integrated herb 89 needs air to show its best, because at first it’s tight, in feel, it has flavors of tomato, cherry and raspberry, note peeking through. Vinergia Spanish Wines. —M.S. mulchy and nutty. Early on, it feels clampy and scratchy, with an overall freshness that can’t be assailed. It finish- abv: 14% Price: $26 but it becomes better as it airs. The black fruit flavors es mild, with a hint of toffee. Elegant and ready to drink are touched up by notes of oak, dried cheese and leath- now–2015. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Baron De Ley 2007 Reserva (Rioja). er—characteristics that extend onto the finish. Quintes- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 This is smooth and smells like true Rioja with 87 sential Wines. —M.S. its vanilla, dill and raspberry aromas. It feels fresh and abv: 14.5% Price: $62 Bodegas Palacio 2007 Cosme Palacio healthy, but a little choppy and gritty, and it tastes of Reserva (Rioja). A light, elegant berry aroma 89 cherry, vanilla, tobacco and leafy herb. Frederick Wild- Viña Mayor 2006 Secreto Reserva (Ri­ transitions to notes of plum and blackberry with airing. man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. bera del Duero). Attractive and fruity on the Smooth and nice in terms of mouthfeel, it has balsamic- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 89 front end, this has pure berry aromas but not a lot of touched flavors of lightly stewed berry, earth and choco- nuance or complexity. It narrows a bit on the palate, late. This is a proper Rioja for near-term drinking. HAB Ramón Bilbao 2006 Reserva (Rioja). This with tight tannins that support the black fruit and coffee North America. —M.S. smells a bit charred at first, then turns syrupy 87 flavors. Juicy, bright and solid on the finish. Habarcelo abv: 13.5% Price: $25 and richly oaked. It feels fresh but hard, with spiky acid- North America. —M.S. ity that pushes the citrusy, vanilla-accented red-fruit. abv: 13% Price: $NA Bodegas Palacio 2007 Glorioso Reserva It finishes crisp and a little tart, with cherry, plum and Especial (Rioja). Jammy raspberry aromas 89 herb flavors. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Resalte 2006 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). are easygoing and come with a hint of tobacco. It feels abv: 14% Price: $20 This is a bit mulchy and leathery on the nose, grabby but good, with lots of spice, pepper, herb and 87 with stalky berry aromas. The heavy palate feels wide, dark fruit flavors on the palate. The finish is healthy and Vaza 2008 Crianza (Rioja). This is roast- with pointed acidity, bearing soupy flavors of vanilla and 87 ed, savory and spicy up front, with solid berry

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 cream. It finishes with lots of flavor but a syrupy feel. air after opening, about an hour or so. Domaine Select berry liqueur and cassis, which narrow to berry and oak T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. Wine Estates. —M.S. notes on the finish. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $41 abv: 14.5% Price: $130 abv: 15.5% Price: $35

La Conreria d’Scala Dei 2009 La Conreria Atalaya 2010 La Atalaya Garnacha-Mon­ TORO 88 (Priorat). Gritty and raisiny up front, this has 89 astrell (Almansa). Big, smoky and concen- notes of tar and jammy blackberry. It feels resiny and trated on the nose, this has a ton of black fruit and char Campo Alegre 2009 Toro. This is jammy, tough, with carob, chocolate, baked berry and roasted notes. This is mouth-filling, deep and powerful stuff, ripe and raisiny smelling, then round, full, 90 plum flavors. The chocolate element persists on the fin- with a potent mash of baked blackberry, molasses and slightly choppy and tannic on the palate. Ample oak ish, which is big, tannic and lasting. Deutsch Family barbecue sauce filling in the flavor profile. It finishes lends coconut and vanilla elements that support the Wine & Spirits. —M.S. long and roasted, with savory oak and saucy spice fla- blackberry flavor. Creamy and fairly oaky on the finish. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 vors. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Monastrell. Gil Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $16 Monte Hiniesta 2009 Toro. Berry candy and UTIEL-REQUENA Atalaya 2010 Laya Old Vines (Almansa). licorice aromas become more subtle and earthy Artemayor NV IV Bobal (Utiel-Requena). 88 For full review see page 13. Best Buy. with air. It feels grabby and abrasive as many Toro’s are From Dominio de la Vega, this dark Bobal has a 87 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $9 prone to be, with blackberry and root notes and a sugar rubbery, chunky, dark-fruited nose. The full-bodied pal- beet flavor. The slightly hot, candied finish holds onto ate is round and lusty, with extracted plum, berry and Santa Quiteria 2010 Altitud 1.100 Garna­ that rooty character. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. chocolate flavors. The finish is long, with drying tannins. cha Tintorera Garnacha (Almansa). This abv: 14.5% Price: $32 A.W. Direct. —M.S. 83 has a reedy red-berry aroma and a citrus note. Confir- abv: 14% Price: $46 mation of the bouquet comes on the palate, which is Pictor 2009 12 Meses (Toro). This smells lean and scouring, with red plum, pomegranate and like horseradish and beets at first, but with time Finca Casa Lo Alto 2009 Crianza (Utiel- 87 herb flavors. The finish is cleansing, but it doesn’t show it softens up to reveal cleaner black fruit and maple aro- Requena). This starts out smelling gaseous 87 much substance. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. mas. It feels grabby and gritty, with strong tannic bite and rubbery, though with time it settles on herbal, leafy abv: 12.5% Price: $10 and black fruit flavors. It retains a ruggedness on the fin- and minty notes. It feels soft, chunky and wide, with a ish, along with molasses and chocolate flavors. Hidalgo baked, spicy berry flavor. The finish is chewy and earthy. Bodegas Tintoralba 2010 BT Tintorera Imports, LLC. —M.S. A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah and Cabernet Garnacha (Almansa). Right from the start abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Sauvignon. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. 81 things are stretched thin. It smells raw and feels dilute, abv: 14% Price: $18 Bodegas Abanico 2009 Eternum Viti with flavors of sour plum and a bit of wood resin. Fiery and tart on the finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. (Toro). This starts with funky, saucy aromas Corolilla 2009 Crianza Viñas Viejas Bobal 86 abv: 13% Price: $9 that clean up and become less strange with airing. Rug- 86 (Utiel-Requena). Woodsy, perfumed and light ged, tannic and bumpy on the palate, it has baked, rub- on the nose, this has rosebud and lemon peel aromas. bery black-fruit flavors. It finishes short and drying, with The palate shows a touch of resiny oak, with flavors of JUMILLA hard tannins and heat. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. raspberry and chocolate, ending with a hint of vanilla. abv: 14% Price: $22 Opici Wines. —M.S. El Nido 2009 Red (Jumilla). For full review abv: 13% Price: $13 93 see page 6. Editors’ Choice. Familia Solana 2009 Toro. Milk chocolate, abv: 15.5% Price: $140 85 plastic and wet dog aromas improve with airing. Finca Casa Lo Alto 2008 Reserva (Utiel- It’s abrasive and scratchy on the palate, with blackberry 84 Requena). The cola and licorice aromas are El Nido 2009 Clio (Jumilla). Opaque to the and milk chocolate flavors that lead to a finish with one candied and easygoing. This feels acidic and snappy, 92 eye, this has a bouquet that’s tightly sealed with last dosage of milk chocolaty sweetness. This contains with red cherry and berry flavors that end with a crisp, aromas of oak, tobacco and cola, and a baked, minty 15% Garnacha. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. sheer, rugged feel. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. note. Saturated but not syrupy, this has roasted, savory abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 14.6% Price: $35 flavors of clove, nutmeg, hickory and baked blackber- ry. It remains roasted, deep and delicious on the finish. Ossiam 2010 Made with Organically This is entirely modern, full bodied and excellent as a PRIORAT 82 Grown Grapes Tempranillo (Utiel-Reque­ whole. Gil Family Estates. —M.S. na). abv: 15.5% Price: $45 Genium Celler 2007 Ecològic (Priorat). Dry and overly crisp throughout, this is light and peppery smelling, with notes of oregano and tomato This is ultraripe and a bit raisiny on the nose, 90 leaf. It feels astringent and dry, with peppery, earthy fla- Bodegas Bleda 2009 Divus Monastrell but there are encouraging flashes of schisty minerali- vors. Steve Miles Selections. —M.S. (Jumilla). Black in color and dense on the ty and freshness. It feels jammy, full bodied and thick, 88 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 nose, this has well-oaked aromas of black fruit, lemon with a baked black-fruit flavor and notes of licorice and peel and cedar. It feels full and fresh, with good acidity tobacco. Smooth and earthy on the finish, with power to Dominio de la Vega 2010 Bobal (Utiel- and prickly tannins. It tastes juicy and clean, with berry, spare. Drink now–2014. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Requena). Cherry and plum aromas lead to a black plum, vanilla, tobacco and spice flavors that carry abv: 14.5% Price: $46 80 choppy, rubbery-feeling palate. It tastes soupy, herbal through onto the finish. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19 Gratallops 2007 Partida Bellvisos (Prio­ and briney. A.W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 rat). Compared to the excellent 2006, this wine 89 Altos del Cuco 2010 Red (Jumilla). Inter- is heavier, riper and jammier at every check point. The esting aromas of brick dust, mint, fall leaf and nose is baked and raisiny, while the palate feels saturat- 86 ALMANSA dried fruit seem traditional and familiar. The palate is ed to the extreme and gritty as well. The primary flavors tight, tannic and rubbery, with roasted, savory flavors of run toward baked plum and blackberry, while licorice, Atalaya 2010 Alaya Garnacha (Almansa). spiced berry and plum. Oak, prune and fig notes work leather and raisin notes carry the finish. Give this lots of This smells of baked black fruit, coconut, vanilla 90 the firm finish. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. and char, with a palate that’s ultrasaturated and almost abv: 14% Price: $10 cloying. The compact flavors are of concentrated black-

WineMag.com | 71 Castillo de Jumilla 2010 Monastrell (Ju­ tea and cherry flavors that are complemented by a dull distant berry and cherry scents. It feels hard and high 86 milla). This begins with a light red-fruit aroma oak tone. The finish is minty and resiny tasting, but hol- in acidity, with raspberry and snappy red-plum flavors. that falls into the cherry-berry vein. It feels bouncy, rub- low in feel. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. It’s citrusy and crisp on the finish, with lasting tang. A. bery and pleasant, with roasted, rubbery berry and sa- abv: 13% Price: $15 Hardy Usa. —M.S. vory spice flavors. The finish is light on fruit but good in abv: 13% Price: $8 feel. Novo Imports. —M.S. Pagos del Rey 2010 Diego de Almagro abv: 14% Price: $9 81 Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). This is rusty Finca Vieja 2004 Reserva Tempranillo (La in color, with burnt leaf and dried earth aromas. Dry- 83 Mancha). There’s virtually no bouquet to this Bodegas Silvano Garcia 2010 Viña Hon­ ing and hard on the palate, it has an earthy, leafy set of wine, and the palate follows suit with a flat feel and hol- 85 da Monastrell (Jumilla). This offers grassy, strained red-fruit flavors. Bitter and rough on the finish. low, faded flavors of balsamic-doused cherry and herb. ashy aromas of green-leaning berry and plum fruits. It Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —M.S. It seems aged and dried out. A. Hardy Usa. —M.S. feels grabby and choppy, with berry flavors that lead abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $10 to a dry, lightly herbal-tasting finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Gladium 2009 Crianza Tempranillo (La abv: 13.5% Price: $14 LA MANCHA 83 Mancha). Stewy yet flush, with shearing acids, Senda 66 2010 Tempranillo (La Mancha). this has a meaty, leafy aroma that sets up the angular Torre Castillo 2010 Alegre Monastrell palate. Flavors of stewed berry, spiced tomato and burnt This is an exotic wine with aromas of graham (Jumilla). Nervy raspberry and cherry aromas 87 leaves turn slightly bitter on what amounts to a short fin- 85 cracker, blueberry, violet petal and pastry. It feels lush, come with a pinch of green herb. It feels astringent yet ish. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. grabby, chewy and tannic, with heavy flavors of clove, structured and crisp, with edgy red-berry and herb fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 black licorice, savory berry and baked plum. The finish vors. Lively, fiery and mildly acidic on the finish. Kysela is dominated by oak, with clove and resiny barrel notes Père et Fils. —M.S. Gladium 2010 Tempranillo (La Mancha). that compete with the wine’s fresher dark-fruit compo- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 This smells reedy and scratchy, turning more nent. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 82 herbal with time in the glass. Astringent acids create a abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Bodegas Luzón 2011 Luzon Verde Mon­ sharp mouthfeel, and while the flavors include raspber- astrell (Jumilla). 82 Medicinal and leathery, this Campos de Viento 2010 Old Vine Tem­ ry and strawberry, there’s also a weedy component that has an iodine aroma that takes the luster off the fruit. picks up speed as the wine breathes. American Estates pranillo (La Mancha). The cherry and ber- It feels short and choppy, with medicinal, gritty flavors 86 Wines, Inc. —M.S. ry aromas are friendly and ripe. It feels flush, edgy and of vitamin, red berry and red licorice. Juicy but edgy; abv: 13.5% Price: $13 a little tannic, with a fresh berry flavor that’s bundled tasted twice. Aviva Vino. —M.S. with a touch of herb. The tasty berry flavor holds form abv: 14% Price: $9 Finca Antigua 2008 Crianza (La Mancha). on the medium-length finish. Vinergia Spanish Wines. A sappy wild-berry aroma turns mulchy with Best Buy. —M.S. 81 airing. The palate feels sharp and puckery, with very abv: 13% Price: $11 VALDEPEÑAS high acidity that creates short, tart, ultrajuicy raspberry and red plum flavors. Winebow. —M.S. Anciano 2005 Reserva Aged 5 Years Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez 2005 El abv: 14% Price: $15 87 Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). A subdued rasp- 84 Vínculo Tempranillo (La Mancha). A gran- berry aroma are sets up the elegant palate, with perky ular, horsey note is the greeting, and never does this tru- Rojo Mojo 2010 Tempranillo (La Man­ red-plum and raspberry flavors. It finishes dry, clean ly find its sweet spot. The aromas are raisiny, while the cha). Berry and plum aromas come with hints and slightly complex. Well-Oiled Wine Company. Best palate is angular and acidic. Flavors of tomato, herb, to- 80 of smoke and asphalt. The very high acidity creates a Buy. —M.S. bacco and plum don’t quite find their footing. The finish shearing mouthfeel, and the flavors never evolve past abv: 13% Price: $11 is thick and tastes of molasses, carob and herb. Classical tart red plum and cranberry. Well-Oiled Wine Compa- Wines. —M.S. ny. —M.S. Viña Albali 2011 Tempranillo (Valdepe­ abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 13% Price: $9 85 ñas). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 Finca Antigua 2009 Garnacha (La Man­ 84 cha). This is spicy and dry on the nose, with a TIERRA DE CASTILLA Bodegas Navarro López 2009 Old Vines cheesy accent. It feels medium in body, with sharp acid- 83 Crianza Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). A jam- ity that creates a semisour flavor profile of red plum and Ziries 2008 Garnacha (Vino de la Tierra my raspberry aroma comes with milk chocolate and cherry. Not overly flavorful, it concludes with a crisp, 88 de Castilla). Raisin and heavy plum aromas plastic scents. It feels pulpy yet spunky, with red plum cleansing finish. Winebow. —M.S. suggest full ripeness and even some overripeness. It and strawberry flavors. The mild finish doesn’t evolve abv: 13.5% Price: $12 feels chewy and textured, with serious concentration or expand, but it registers as being fresh. Quintessential and baked flavors of dark berry and roasted plum. This Wines. —M.S. Finca Vieja 2007 Crianza Tempranillo (La tips the scale in terms of weight and ripeness, delivering abv: 13% Price: $13 84 Mancha). This has raisin, earth, mint and dried a deep, roasted character that calls for near-term con- herb aromas. It feels narrow, but concentrated, tasting sumption Ole Imports. —M.S. Bodegas Los Llanos 2004 Pata Negra of earthy tomato, baked plum and fresh green herb. It abv: 14% Price: $30 82 Gran Reserva Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). has a solid mouthfeel, with a mildly briney finish. A. Heavy oak-based aromas provide cover for the grassy, Hardy Usa. —M.S. Maximo 2010 Edicion Limitada Tempra­ green scents. It feels clunky and grabby, with jumbled abv: 13% Price: $9 87 nillo (Tierra de Castilla). This is rubbery and flavors of sweet oak and green-leaning fruit. CIV/USA. spicy smelling, with solid berry and plum aromas in ad- —M.S. J. Garcia Carrion 2011 Opera Prima Tem­ dition to a hint of cinnamon. It feels a little snappy as abv: 13% Price: $15 84 pranillo (La Mancha). For full review see spicy, dry red-plum and raspberry flavors take over. A page 14. Best Buy. touches of wood and related spice work the finish. Fred- Bodegas Navarro López 2007 Old Vines abv: 12.5% Price: $6 erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. 82 Reserva Tempranillo (Valdepeñas). This abv: 13.5% Price: $8 smells cheesy and tomatoey, with a woody accent. Finca Vieja 2010 Tempranillo (La Man­ Clampy, resiny and drying on the palate, this has lean 83 cha). A leathery, herbal aroma outmuscles the

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 Volteo 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier­ have a minerally side and force. Things run zesty in the Bodegas Medina 2011 Jaloco Joven (Ri­ 87 ra de Castilla). This is clean, fruity and ap- mouth, with red fruit flavors of plum and raspberry. The 85 bera del Guadiana). Ripe, minty and exuber- pealing, with no aromas or flavors of heavy oak or finish is healthy, with a flavors of dry oak and cocoa. This ant on the front end, this has a hint of animal in addition weedy, roasted fruit. It offers cherry and berry flavors, is fresh, alert and focused. Aviva Vino. —M.S. to a note of blueberry. Saturated and simple, this has a with a healthy, quick finish that ends on a vanilla and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 ripe red-berry flavor that comes across as red licorice. mild spice note. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Fruity and fun. Rio Tinto Export Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. Principe de Viana 2006 Reserva (Navar­ abv: 14.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 88 ra). Harmonious on the bouquet, this has aro- mas of berry, marzipan and nutmeg. It feels a little acid- Marqués de Valdueza 2007 Gran Vino Almez 2009 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier­ ic but that adds freshness to the package. The flavors 85 de Guarda (Extremadura). Gaseous berry 85 ra de Castilla). Raisiny on the nose, but even of earthy, roasted fruits are a touch salty, and the finish aromas settle on pepper, oregano and earth tones. It with the bouquet’s overripeness, it settles on the palate, tastes briney and baked, with notes of coffee and toast. feels tight, full and potent, with herbal, peppery flavors showing fresh raisin and cassis flavors, with just enough A blend of 65% Tempranillo, 20% Merlot and 15% Ca- of black fruit and licorice. This turns more meaty and acidity to keep it balanced. Jammy and short on the fin- berent Sauvignon. European Heritage Wines. —M.S. pumped up as it unfolds—much more rugged than re- ish. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 fined. Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Rafael Cambra 2009 Soplo Garnacha Mano A Mano 2009 Ribota Tempranillo 88 (Valencia). Red berry and plum aromas form Marqués de Valdueza 2009 Valdueza (Ex­ 84 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Thick and the base of this wine’s fresh, uncomplicated bouquet. It 83 tremadura). Gaseous and minerally on first pasty smelling, this has roasted berry scents that are feels juicy and bright, with good layering and aggressive blush, it has funky, earthy aromas of leaves and olive slightly leathery. It’s scratchy and mildly astringent on flavors of berry and plum. The finish is dry and snappy, that could use a hit of freshness. It feels grabby and the palate, tasting minty and dry, with a mild fruit con- with mild oak and spice flavors. Frontier Wine Imports. scratchy, with an olive flavor and a hot finish that has a tent. The finish is chunky and resiny. Aviva Vino. —M.S. —M.S. latex-like character. This is a big wine that misses some abv: 14.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $18 elegance. Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 El Furioso 2009 Tempranillo (Vino de la Avanthia 2009 Mencía (Valdeorras). This 83 Tierra de Castilla y León). This is sharp 87 is a char-broiled Mencía that’s a lot more about Telmo Rodríguez 2010 Al Muvedre Tinto smelling, with aromas of field greens, rhubarb and oak and barrel influence than anything else. Aromas run 83 Joven Monastrell (Alicante). Roasted and scratchy spices. It’s light in weight, with short, herbal from blackened meat to barbecue, with a saucy berry stalky smelling, this has earthy berry and tomato aro- and spicy flavors that center on a strawberry note. Clas- note. It feels round, full and resiny from the copious mas. It feels a bit flat, with a stewed, saucy red-berry sic Wines Of California. —M.S. oak aging, with dominating flavors of wood, char and flavor. The finish is adequate, with oak-based clove and abv: 12% Price: $12 toast, along with related notes of cinnamon, nutmeg and herb notes. Vintus LLC. —M.S. clove. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $49 OTHER RED WINES Bodegas Medina 2011 Jaloco Roble (Ri­ Gaba do Xil 2010 Mencía (Valdeorras). bera del Guadiana). Jammy and candied Clos Ventana 2006 Red (Navarra). Con- 82 This smells red and reedy up front, with a smelling, this has a green element akin to alfalfa or centrated and rich up front, this has black fruit 87 91 punch-like aroma that comes with a nice hint of fresh mint. It’s clampy, tannic and high in acid, with raspberry aromas of prune, blackberry and cassis, with notes of herb. It’s fresh in feel, with brushy red-fruit flavors of and plum notes that offer an oak offset. The flavors turn beef and herb. It feels full bodied, filling all corners of currant, raspberry and plum. The finish is floral and lik- tangy and sharp on the finish, even as a heavy vanilla fla- the palate. Flavors of black cherry, plum and black cur- able. Vintus LLC. —M.S. vor settles in. Rio Tinto Export Inc. —M.S. rant are ripe, while jammy characteristics of fruit cake abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $12 and prune work the mellow finish. A blend of 60% Tem- pranillo, 30% Cabernet and 10% Merlot. European Peza do Rei 2009 Mencía (Ribeira Sa­ Finca La Estacada 2010 6 Meses en Bar­ Heritage Wines. —M.S. cra). The riary aromas have a floral accent as rica Tempranillo (Uclés). Intersting up front, abv: 13.5% Price: $19 87 82 well as a leathery side. It feels bouncy and composed, with savory, roasted aromas of smoky plum and barbe- with a good mouthfeel and solid flavors of spiced rasp- Guelbenzu 2009 Vierlas (Ribera del cue. It feels bullish and punishing, bearing monster tan- berry and red plum. Oaky but vibrant on the finish. nins and heavy extraction, with a roasted, charred flavor Queiles). The bouquet is robust, with bold 90 Classical Wines. —M.S. that leads to an all-out resiny, burnt-wood-tasting finish. aromas of berry, tobacco, root and tree bark. It feels abv: 13% Price: $19 Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. flush, full and balanced, with licorice and blackberry fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 vors that are backed by nice acidity. This is a grabby and Atalaya do Mar 2010 Mencía (Monterrei). meaty blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Merlot and 10% Gra- Fresh berry and cherry aromas come with a Raimat 2007 Castell de Raimat Tempra­ ciano. Classical Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 pinch of lemon and also a rose note. It has a tangy, fresh nillo (Costers del Segre). Spice and tire abv: 13.5% Price: $14 81 feel and snappy, semitart flavors of red plum and rasp- rubber aromas shadow hard, dry berry scents. It feels berry. Limited and short on the finish, but zesty all the bumpy and scattershot, with a pasty, oaky flavor and -fi Cruz Montesa 2009 Red (Alicante). Mossy, way through. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. ery acidity. The finish is overly oaky and invasive. Aveniù earthy and damp smelling, this has roasted plum 89 abv: 13% Price: $13 Brands, Inc. —M.S. and berry aromas that suggest savory things to come. It abv: 14% Price: $10 feels rich, with good acidity and a thick overall texture. Lorca 2009 Monastrell (Bullas). Jumbled Saucy plum, berry, tomato and herb flavors finish with aromas of medicinal fruit, rubber and oak knit barbecue, vanilla and tobacco accents. This is a blend of 86 together with airing. The palate is clampy and angular SHERRY Monastrell, Syrah and Tempranillo, with 500 cases pro- but healthy, with a roasted black-fruit flavor that’s ac- duced. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV 20 Yr. Baco cented by an herbal, medicinal note. This is big-boned, abv: 14% Price: $20 Imperial Amontillado (Jerez). Reticent car- with a medicinal side. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 92 amel and walnut aromas come with a peach scent. It abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Pazos del Rey 2009 Sila Mencía (Monter­ feels nice as it glides across the palate, with nervy, salty 88 rei). The raspberry and boysenberry aromas flavors of dried apricots and nuts. Toffee and peanut are

WineMag.com | 73 the lead flavors on the classy finish. Only 300 cases were lude to the creamy, thick and deeply layered finish. that run straight to mango, Dole peach and sweetened produced. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Albariño make the papaya. It’s short on character and complexity but big on abv: 19.5% Price: $80 blend. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. sweet, sticky flavors. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $50/375 ml abv: 13% Price: $23/375 ml Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV 30 Yr. Old 92 Baco Imperial Oloroso (Jerez). This is lush Casa de la Ermita 2010 Dulce Monastrell smelling but dry at the same time, with touches of car- 90 (Jumilla). The blackberry, boysenberry and amel and cola gracing the bouquet. It feels tight and cinnamon aromas are exotic and attractive. It offers a pinched, but precise, with dried citrus, toffee and hazel- ton of body in support of concentrated flavors of black nut flavors. The finish is briney, complex and very long. fruit, fudge and spice. The finish is long, with notes of Only 300 cases were made. Colección Internacional del chocolate, pepper and some elegance. Opici Wines. Vino. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 19.5% Price: $100 abv: 15% Price: $24/500 ml

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oxford 1.970 D.G. Viticultors NV Petit Caligo Sweet 91 Pedro Ximénez (Jerez). For full review see 90 White Wine (Spain). This is soft and lush on page 12. Best Buy. the nose, with a slightly lacquer-like scent. The palate abv: 17% Price: $15/500 ml feels thick but nicely acidic, keeping it on an even keel. Flavors of honey, apricot and preserved papaya set up a Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Amontillado fleshy, plump finish that brings it all home. A blend of 90 Sherry (Jerez). With a nose of toffee, dried 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay. Grapes of apricot, cocoa powder and rancio, this is classic off-dry Spain. —M.S. amontillado. It feels fresh and active, then tastes rich abv: 10.5% Price: $35/375 ml and moderately sweet, with flavors of hazelnut, caramel, toasted banana, orange and spice. Nutty and smooth on Marqués de Valdueza 2009 Vendimia Tar­ the finish. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 dia Late Harvest (Extremadura). Rusty abv: 18% Price: $15 in color, this has leathery aromas that include dried cheese and fallen leaf. Forward, fruity and full of acid- Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Cream Sher­ ity, it tastes of roasted black fruit, caramel and molas- 90 ry Sherry (Jerez). Golden-brown in color, ses. The fresh acidity ensures that it doesn’t come across this has heady aromas of cola, nut, nutmeg, root beer too forcefully or heavy. Cabernet and Merlot is the mix. and caramel. It feels full, slightly rich and properly Vinea Imports. —M.S. cut, with coffee, toffee, chocolate and honey flavors. A abv: 15% Price: $24/375 ml balanced but elevated dessert-style Sherry that gets it right. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2008 Selección Es­ abv: 18% Price: $15 88 pecial 1 (Málaga). This is friendly on the nose with a melon scent. It feels fresh and not too challenging Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Bulería Fino on palate, with nectarine, peach and mango flavors. The 87 Sherry (Jerez). A mild stone-fruit aroma finish isn’t too firm, but it doesn’t fall apart. A simple, comes with rancio and butterscotch hints. It feels dry sweet casual quaffer. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. and fresh, with good body weight and crisp, briney fla- abv: 13% Price: $19 vors that are accented by notes of salted nut and dried apricot. Mild on the finish, with medium length and Bodegas Bleda 2011 Amatus Dulce Mon­ drive. CIV/USA. —M.S. 87 astrell (Jumilla). Midnight purple in color, abv: 15% Price: $17 this has legs as thick as an elephant’s. It smells like boy- senberry jam, spice and bacon, then feels like motor oil Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Manzanil­ on the palate, with flavors of black fruit, chocolate and 86 la Riá Pitá D.O. Sanlucar de Barrameda boysenberry syrup. It lacks complexity, but it hits hard Sherry (Jerez). This is a touch wheaty and creamy with concentration, power and sweetness. Novo Im- on the nose, with moderate oxidation for a manzanilla. ports. —M.S. Lemony acidity keeps things tangy and crisp, while the abv: 16.9% Price: $22/375 ml flavors are fresh and nutty, with controlled acidic sharp- ness. Dry nut notes and an apricot-related tang carry Bodegas Medina 2007 Marqués de Bada­ the finish. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 84 joz El Marqués Dulce Cabernet Sauvi­ abv: 15% Price: $10/500 ml gnon (Extremadura). Rubber, flower petal and can- died fruit aromas comprise the unique bouquet. The palate is solid but edgy, bearing grabby tannins and DESSERT WINES heaviness, with sweet flavors of blackberry, cassis and Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2008 Victoria 2 pepper. Monotone on the finish, then bitter at the very 92 (Málaga). For full review see page 8. end. This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Rio Tinto Ex- abv: 13% Price: $26/375 ml port Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18/500 ml D.G. Viticultors NV Caligo Sweet White 91 Wine (Spain). After a waxy opening, the bou- Finca Antigua 2010 Naturalmente Dulce quet unveils honey and peach aromas that are totally 84 Moscatel (La Mancha). Aromas of canned inviting. It feels thick but not cloying, and the honeyed peaches and apricots are about all one can pull from the flavors of banana, peach and dulce de leche are a pre- bouquet. It feels solid and untamed, with juicy flavors

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 SPIRITS UNFLAVORED VODKA CHOCOLATE- AND COFFEE-FLAVORED VODKAS Bimber Vodka (Poland; Myssura Trad­ 92 ing, Harrison, NJ). Nicely balanced and neu- heck the shelves of any wine and spir- trend. It bridges the intersection between the tral, this winter wheat-based vodka is light and soft on its store, and it’s clear that dessert vod- frenzy of confected flavors (cupcake frosting, the palate, with just a touch of vanilla sweetness. A top kas are having a moment, becoming one cotton candy, fruit loops) and the trend of salty- choice for citrusy cocktails. C abv: 40% Price: $25 of the fastest-growing segments in the market. sweet sensations used in mixology and pastry But dessert isn’t the only time these right now, such as Salted Karamel Vodka (a new Boyd & Blair Potato Vodka (USA; Ameri­ treats are being consumed. Although after release from Stoli, not reviewed below), salt tinc- 90 can Still Life, VA). This potato-based vodka dinner may be the most common time to un- tures used to help coax out flavors in cocktails and from a small-scale Pennsylvania producer provides a wind with a chocolate- or coffee-spiked cocktail, chocolate chip cookies sprinkled with sea salt. versatile canvas for a wide array of drinks. With its light- ly fruity aromas and flavors and a clean finish, it’s also brunch time and the standard happy hour are That said, after trying Wave’s Chocolate Cov- lovely neat. also popular occasions for these libations. ered Pretzel Vodka, tasting notes referenced nei- abv: 40% Price: $37 Perhaps one reason for their popularity is ther chocolate nor salty pretzel flavors. Instead, that dessert-flavored vodkas don’t demand to impressions included nutty flavors and a vague Clear10 Vodka (USA: Good Spirits Distill­ ing, Olathe, KS). This vodka has a nice citrusy but enticing savoriness. And the greatest feature 89 be taken seriously. In fact, quite the opposite— zing and a clean finish, bearing a neutral scent with a flavored vodkas are becoming ever more fanci- was its lush, velvety texture—an anomaly in the hint of citrus. The bottle is eye-catching, with a wavy, ful. Indeed, one of the most interesting bottlings usually light-as-air vodka category. tactile shape. from this month’s roundup is the Chocolate Cov- Flavored vodkas already account for more abv: 40% Price: $23 ered Pretzel Vodka from Wave. At first, it’s easy than a quarter of all vodka sales, particularly Shpilka (Kyrgyzstan; Phenix Brands, to be taken aback by its flavor. Even the most ad- among the young demographic. Will these fun 88 Kansas City, MO). Distilled from Russian venturous drinker is likely to do a double take, flavors ramp up sales even further? Some would wheat, this has a lightly fruity scent and a sweet flavor, and it’s whimsical enough to make you smile. find that to be sweet news indeed. with a silky feel and a marshmallow-like finish. The Upon consideration, it’s also remarkably on —Kara Newman word “shpilka” is the Russian word for “stiletto heel,” and it’s clear that the target demographic is women. The product is packaged in a lean, frosted bottle with a Alchemia Chocolate Infused Vodka (Po­ graphic of a woman in a sexy red dress. CHOCOLATE & COFFEE abv: 40% Price: $22/1 L 87 land; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY). From the makers of an outstanding wild- FLAVORED VODKAS Mile High Vodka (USA; Nexus Brands, cherry-flavored vodka comes this chocolate offering, in Stolichnaya Chocolat Razberi (Latvia; Denver, CO). Made using “ice-cold spring the same striking, tall, pyramid-shaped bottle. Made 87 William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ). The waters” and Midwestern-grown grains, this vodka has a 93 with Polish cocoa, the vodka is a light translucent amber, photo on the frosted-glass bottle is drool-inducing: a sweet, milky scent and a sweet flavor, with a crisp finish. with a bold hazelnut and cocoa aroma. Though it has a raspberry dripping with chocolate. On the palate, lus- Light in feel, this is overall clean and neutral. rich chocolate flavor that carries through to a complex cious notes of raspberry and cocoa linger, and the des- abv: 40% Price: $15 finish of nuts and cigar tobacco, it is fairly hot. Serve sert-like aroma beckons from a half-foot away. Mix it over ice. with pomegranate juice and lemon, served in a martini Ocean Vodka (USA; Hawaii Sea Spirits, abv: 40% Price: $29 glass. 87 Maui, HI). Attention ecoconscious tipplers: abv: 37.5% Price: $27/1 L This product is certified organic, made with organic Van Gogh Rich Dark Chocolate Vodka cane sugar and desalinated ocean water sourced from (Holland; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, Wave Chocolate Covered Pretzel Vodka 86 3,000 feet below the big island of Hawaii. A portion FL). Infused with semisweet chocolate, this translu- (USA; Sazerac Company, Chicago, IL). of the proceeds from this product benefit organizations 92 cent dark-brown vodka has rich, pleasing chocolate and This is an unusual and compelling entrant to the that work to conserve ocean resources. With its sweet, espresso tones. A distinct sweet, waxy note is reminis- flavored-vodka market. Riding the salty-sweet des- lightly vanilla aroma and flavor and island provenance, cent of scented candles. sert trend (think salted caramel), this spirit has warm, consider this vodka for sunny tropical drinks. abv: 35% Price: $27 rich, hazelnut-like aromas and flavors, with an intrigu- abv: 40% Price: $33 ing umami note. It’s surprisingly rich and velvety for a Pure Iceberg Ice Infusions Chocolate VuQo (The Philippines; VuQo Spirits, vodka. Mint Flavored Vodka (Canada; Admiral abv: 30% Price: $9 86 Santa Clara, CA). Technically, this fiery coco- Imports, Cedar Grove, NJ). For full review see 87 nut-nectar distillate is considered lambanog in its native page 12. Van Gogh Double Espresso Vodka (Hol­ Philippines rather than “premium vodka,” as the label abv: 35% Price: $15 90 land; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). states, but that’s splitting hairs. Look for a sugary aroma For full review see page 12. Voli Espresso Vanilla Fusion (France; and a coconutty flavor, with a vanilla note on the finish. abv: 35% Price: $27 Palm Bay International, Port Washington, It has an almost effervescent feel, becoming drying on 84 the finish. NY). Made in Cognac, France, this spirit has 80 calo- Van Gogh Dutch Chocolate Vodka (Hol­ abv: 40% Price: $22 ries pre serving compared to the 100 that most vod- land; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). An 89 kas have. The aromatics lean toward the waxy side. It’s infusion of cocoa beans provides a faint brownish tinge Twenty 2 Micro Distilled Vodka (USA; mildly flavored, with more vanilla than espresso on the to this otherwise nearly clear spirit. It’s sweet on the pal- Northern Maine Distilling Co., Houlton, palate, and a floral note that seems out of place. 87 ate, with lingering fudge-like and milk-caramel notes. ME). This spirit is microdistilled in 50-gallon batches abv: 30% Price: $23 abv: 35% Price: $27 in northern Maine, yielding a neutral product with a bit

WineMag.com | 75 of marshmallow sweetness. It feels a bit hot, but should do well when mixed. abv: 40% Price: $27

Soplica Vodka (Poland: CW Imports, 86 New York, NY). This is slightly sweet and neu- tral, with a faint citrus note on the finish. abv: 40% Price: $12

Vodka by Battistella (USA; Six Mile Creek 86 Vineyard, Ithaca, NY). Made from a Seyval Blanc wine base, this vodka has a sweet, fruity, warm quality, with a resiny note. Only limited quantities made. abv: 40% Price: $25/375 ml

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 BEER World Brews, NY). This easy-pleasing brew pours a medium amber color, with flecks of orangey copper AMBER AND RED ALES TO PAIR WITH THE SEASON when held up to a light. A honey note comes through on the nose, supported by the solid malt backbone. The ith summer long gone, autumn Medium bodied, with moderate alcohol mouthfeel is round but brisk and clean, with medium body and high carbonation. It’s dry and smooth on the upon us and winter rapidly levels that usually fall in the 4%–7% range, finish, with a faint resiny hop hint in the background. W approaching, it’s the perfect time these brews are toasty, hearty and flavorful, abv: 4.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack of year for a transitional brew, one that will while remaining refreshing and clean. They allow a smooth segue from wheat beers and also pair exceptionally well with traditional Metolius River Ales Rusty Spinner Am­ 85 ber Ale (American Amber/Red Ale; World summer seasonals into brews with a bit more Thanksgiving fare—especially turkey. Brews, NY). An accessible and easy-drinking amber, heft and intensity. While it’s not quite time American amber/red ales can also come this offers light characteristics of caramel malts, softly for winter warmers and stouts, amber and red in double or imperial styles, as in a few of the toasted bread and earthy hops. It’s just shy of medium ales are perfect choices for this intermediary beers reviewed this month. Like all imperial weight, with brisk carbonation and a refreshing finish period. or double offerings, these selections aim to that bears a touch of lingering hop-driven astringency. abv: 5.1% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack Something of a catch-all category, rev things up to another level—most notably American-style amber/red ales includes by raising the alcohol levels and the quantities examples ranging from light copper to of hops used, although malt additions can be OTHER ALES amber to light brown in color. Typically high intensified and varied as well. These brews are Alaskan Summer Kölsch-Style Ale in maltiness, with low-to-medium caramel great options for chilly November nights, and 89 (Kölsch; Alaskan Brewing Company, character and light fruitiness, American pair well with robust fare like braised meats AK). This refreshing brew pours a clear gold color, with examples are usually characterized by their and stews. a frothy off-white head that leaves a nice ring of lacing behind. Enticing fruit aromas of stone fruit, pear and use of American hop varieties to produce hop Prost! green apple lead the bouquet and spice up the clean bitterness ranging from soft to promounced. —Lauren Buzzeo grain backbone. Secondary notes of soft flower and cit- rus peel add depth, unfolding with greater intensity on the palate alongside flavors of fresh wheat and bread dough. Balanced and refreshing, this has brisk efferves- cence and a pleasant hop bitterness that clings to the AMBER/RED ALES tional Scottish Ale. Although it might not be as intense finish. as conventional counterparts, it’s still packed with char- abv: 5.3% Price: $4/22 oz Karl Strauss Red Trolley Ale (American acter, yet wrapped up in an overall smooth and balanced 90 Amber/Red Ale; Karl Strauss Brewing experience. Notes of toasted biscuits, peanut shells and Alaskan Amber Alt Style Beer (Altbier; Company, CA). This ale pours a bright mahogany forward citrusy hops waft from the glass and transition 86 Alaskan Brewing Company, AK). This color with garnet glimmers, and although the cream- onto the palate alongside accents of tropical fruit, citrus brew is easy-drinking and refreshing, with a nice crisp- colored head is thin, it leaves some decent lacing be- rind and a touch of fresh, soft caramel. A faint peppery ness to the palate and a sweet yet clean finish. It’s medi- hind with each sip. As expected, it’s forward in roasted spice and husky astringency linger on the close. um copper in color, with a nose that offers light aromas malt and toasted grain aromas and flavors, accented by abv: 5.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack of toasted grain and caramel malt. The palate boasts notes of caramel sauce, red fruit, sweet spice and co- more of the same, with a bit more intensity, alongside coa powder. There’s a solid hop presence throughout, New Belgium Fat Tire Amber Ale (Ameri­ accents of nutty bread, earthy spice and toffee. but it takes a back seat to the malty core, providing 88 can Amber/Red Ale; New Belgium Brew­ abv: 5.3% Price: $4/22 oz just enough character to balance out the beer’s sweeter ing Company, CO). As one of the first beers to achieve characteristics. Medium weight with a rich, toffee-in- a cult-like status in the American craft-beer scene, Fat fused finish. Tire is a little infamous. Overall, this is a well-made and AMBER LAGER abv: 5.8% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack impeccably balanced beer, albeit a bit straightforward. The malt leads the nose and palate, with forward bis- Karl Strauss Amber (Vienna Lager; Karl Strauss Brewing Company, CA). Karl Strauss Red Trolley Ale Off The cuit, toasted grain and roasted nut notes throughout. It’s 89 Formerly Rails (Imperial American Red Ale; Karl medium bodied, with a touch of an earthy hop flavor labeled as “Amber Lager,” this brew was recently re- 90 launched as “Karl Strauss Amber,” although the recipe Strauss Brewing Company, CA). Off The Rails is to add structure and some tannic grip to the palate and remains the same. It’s clean and refreshing, with light Karl Strauss’ Red Trolley Ale kicked up a notch, dou- finish. toasted¬ biscuit and grain husk aromas. A bit more bling the original recipe with copious amounts of sweet abv: 5.2% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack depth and weight unfold on the palate, with the car- caramel malts and earthy Willamette hops. It’s big and amel-malt sweetness providing the mouthfeel a lightly intense, loaded with rich aromas and flavors of cara- Ninkasi Believer Double Red Ale (Impe­ creamy texture. The finish is crisp and lively, with a lin- mel sauce, toffee, dried cherries, raisins, brown bread 88 rial American Red Ale; Ninkasi Brewing gering malt flavor that’s augmented by notes of earthy and resiny hops. There’s a slight slickness to the palate, Company, OR). Ninkasi has built a reputation for hop and yeasty spice. somewhat viscous and thick, but it’s abruptly countered bringing bold beers to the table, and this one doesn’t abv: 4.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack by medium carbonation and cleansing hop astringency. disappoint in that regard. An assertive, malty core domi- The medium-length finish is slightly warming, but long nates, creating an overall round impression and full tex- and sultry, with a decadent dark¬ fruit and light choco- ture. Notes of caramel, biscuit, citrus rind and earthy late accent. hop abound, while a slight piney bitterness adds depth abv: 8.5% Price: $8/22 oz to the finish. abv: 6.9% Price: $4/22 oz Odell 90 Shilling Ale (American Amber/ 89 Red Ale; Odell Brewing Co., CO). This is Barrel Trolley Amber Ale With Honey Odell’s flagship beer—a take on a lightened-up, tradi- 86 Added No. 5 (American Amber/Red Ale;

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