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FASHION EDUCATION for the FUTURE Sustainable Development in Social, Economic, Environmental, Cultural and Geographic Dimensions

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FASHION EDUCATION for the FUTURE Sustainable Development in Social, Economic, Environmental, Cultural and Geographic Dimensions FASHION EDUCATION FOR THE FUTURE sustainable development in social, economic, environmental, cultural and geographic dimensions Org.: Francisca Dantas Mendes FASHION EDUCATION FOR THE FUTURE sustainable development in social, economic, environmental, cultural and geographic dimensions FASHION EDUCATION FOR THE FUTURE sustainable development in social, economic, environmental, cultural and geographic dimensions DOI 10.11606/9788564842311 Francisca Dantas Mendes (Org.) São Paulo EACH 2017 Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades - EACH ORGANIZING COMMITTEE UNIVERSIDADE DE SÃO PAULO João Gabriel Farias Barbosa de Araújo, Mariana Costa Laktim, Renata Mayumi Lopes Fujita Rector: Phd. Prof. Dr. Marco Antonio Zago SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE Vice-Rector: Phd. Prof. Dr. Vahan Agopyan Prorector of undergraduate education: Phd. Prof. Antonio Carlos Hernandes Adair Marques, André Robic, Antônio T. Kanamaru, Francisca D. Mendes, Júlia B. Ramos, Prorector of graduate education: Phd. Prof. Carlos Gilberto Carlotti Junior Lavínnia Seabra, Lucas da Rosa, Luciane Robic, Maria de F. da S. C. G. de Mattos, Prorector of research: Phd. Prof. José Eduardo Krieger Patrícia Sant’Anna, Sirlene M. da Costa, Suzana Avelar Prorector of culture and university extension: Phd. Prof. Marcelo de A. Roméro Organization: Francisca Dantas Mendes ESCOLA DE ARTES, CIÊNCIAS E HUMANIDADES Editorial Direction: João G. F. B. de Araújo, Mariana Costa Laktim, Renata M. L. Fujita Director: Phd. Prof. Maria Cristina Motta de Toledo Cover: João G. F. B. de Araújo, Mariana Costa Laktim Vice-Director: Phd. Prof. Neli Aparecida de Mello-Théry Graphic design and layout: João Gabriel Farias Barbosa de Araújo President of CG: Phd. Prof. Nadia Zanon Narchi Assistant graphic designer: Ademilton Santana President of CPG: Phd. Prof. Alexandre Panosso Neto Translation of “Presentation” and “Introduction”: João G. F. B. de Araújo, Renata M. L. Fujita President of CPq: Phd. Prof. Mario Pedrazzoli Neto Translation of “Cradle-to-Cradle in fashion garment manufacturing”: Renata M. L. Fujita President of CCEx: Phd. Prof. Ana Amélia Benedito Silva The chapters’ texts are the sole responsibility of the authors CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA (Universidade de SãoCATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION Paulo. Escola de Artes, Ciências e DATAHumanidades. Biblioteca) (Universidade de São Paulo, Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades. Biblioteca) Fashion education for the future [ebook] : sustainable development in social, economic, environmental, cultural and geographic dimensions / Francisca Dantas Mendes, [Org.]. – 1st. ed. -- Sao Paulo : EACH/USP, 2017 248 pp. : ill. Chapters originated from the researches presented at Fashion Colloquia Sao Paulo, in the EACH/USP, of the 2016 April 11-15 Editorial direction: João G. F. B. de Araújo, Mariana Costa Laktim and Renata M. L. Fujita Access to electronic version: <http://each.uspnet.usp.br/fcbrsp2016/index-br.htm > ISBN 978-85-64842-31-1 (Ebook) DOI 10.11606/9788564842311 ISBN 978-85-64842-32-8 (paperback) 1. Fashion – Study and Learning. 2. Textile industry. 3. Sustainability. I. Mendes, Francisca Dantas, org. II. Araújo, João Gabriel Farias Barbosa de, ed. III. Laktim, Mariana Costa, ed. IV. Fujita, Renata Mayumi Lopes, ed. IV. Fashion Colloquia São Paulo (2016) DDC 22.ed. – 391 Partial or total reproduction of this work is allowed, as long as reference is made to the publication and the authors. Prohibited any use for commercial purposes. Partial or total reproduction of this work is authorized for academic purposes, as long as reference is Rights reservedmade to: to EACHthe publication - Escola da. Artes Ciências e Humanidades, Av. Arlindo Béttio, 1000 – Prédio da Administração, CEP 03828-000 - São Paulo - SP - Brasil, http://www5.each.usp.br/ PRESENTATION by Francisca Dantas Mendes, João Gabriel Farias Barbosa de Araújo, Mariana Costa Laktim and Renata Mayumi Lopes Fujita translated by João Gabriel Farias Barbosa de Araújo and Renata Mayumi Lopes Fujita An event of great magnitude took place at the aim of Fashion Colloquia has been to manifestation in a country of continental the School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities attract a rich variety of contributions from of the University of São Paulo - EACH / USP - a wide selection of professionals - not only Fashion Colloquia was supported by important from April 11 to 15, 2016 and could not fail to academics, but also industry, the market and partnerdimensions. schools The that first opened Brazilian their edition doors of to result in an important legacy. A book whose 33 the media - and use this support to upload the host a day of the event: FMU - FIAM / FAAM international repository for fashion housed at educational complex and Faculdade Santa are destined to the researches - rigorously the London College of Fashion, University of Marcelina, both committed to the training of chapters, subdivided in five thematic sessions, the Arts London. their students and to the development of high- were described in a booklet of abstracts and As the event gains more and more selected by the scientific committee - that partners and collaborators from all continents, Colloquia - São Paulo 2016. an increasingly rich and complex network researchers,level scientific professors, and cultural doctors, production. masters, presentedFashion briefly, Colloquia in 7 minutes,was established during Fashionby four is formed. Through these connections the undergraduateDuring five anddays, graduate 58 authors students - including - educational institutions, led by the London Fashion Colloquia launches itself into new from more than twenty universities and College of Fashion of the University of the Arts territories, no longer linked to the fashion representing 10 nationalities presented their London; The Institute Français de la Mode weeks, but maintaining its commitment to researches to about 200 participants who in Paris; Parsons The New School for Design the creation of new spaces for the discussion interacted with questions and comments, in New York; And the Domus Academy in resulting in an important exchange of knowledge and experience. Fashion Colloquia to connect academic research, professional of knowledgeLatin America’s produced largest by different city is hosting actors in São Paulo also had discussion tables with Milan. These institutions have joined efforts thedifferent event witharenas the around theme the“Fashion world. education authorities and important personalities of colloquia, which took place between 2011 for the future: sustainable development in Brazil’s fashion scene and with the exhibition practice and industry. The first series of social, economic, environmental, cultural of the students’ works of the three local spotlight of the fashion weeks to enhance the and geographic dimensions”. The task is to schools involved in the organization. The debateand 2013, that explored happened the concomitantly effervescence with and the expose what has been researched at fashion event contributed to the creation of new the celebration of the work of designers and colleges, report the challenges of industry and knowledge networks, for the dissemination of brands from around the world. Since then, national and international research and for the establishment of new sources and references. confirm the diversity of fashion as a cultural INTRODUCTION 11 by Francisca Dantas Mendes, João Gabriel Farias Barbosa de Araújo, Mariana Laktim and Renata Mayumi Lopes Fujita CONTENTS I. FASHION & EDUCATION 15 Towards practice beyond fashion design: studying fashion design research in by Namkyu Chun and Julia Valle-Noronha Brazilian higher education 17 the industry is seeking for 23 byThe Giselle new dafashion Costa Araujodesigner and profileNádia Nascimento Fashion for all forms of learning 29 by Lavínnia Seabra Made in Apple: a non-futuristic future of fashion and the Apple Watch case-study 35 by Mor Schwartz Fashion in Ceará: sustainable aspects in the by Maria de Jesus Farias Medeiros professional qualification 45 II. FASHION & SOCIETY 51 The aesthetics of dress 53 by Ian W. King Identity, autonomy and income generation through fashion and manufacture for communities of the Amazon River. Case study: Alinhavando o Futuro project 59 by Marco Antonio Andreoni, Maria Cecilia da Costa and Bruno da Costa Andreoni Social supply chain management in the Loewe design between modernity and clothing industry: a literature review 65 tradition 121 by Deniz Köksal, Jochen Strähle, Matthias Freise, by María Eugenia Josa Martínez and Holger Schallehn and Marcus Adam María Villanueva Fernández Dialogue between the local culture by Eloisa Ferraro Artuso and Fernanda Simon Why do we need a fashion revolution? 71 by Gina Rocha Reis Vieira Struggling to buy fashion to wear: a working and fashion design 127 model of the fashion clothing involvement of those who born blind, those who became blind IV. FASHION & ENVIRONMENT 133 Product-service systems in the clothing by Renata Beman industry: a conceptual business model and and those who are visually impaired 77 dynamic capabilities approach 135 The relation between clothing and violence by Marcus Adam, Holger Schallehn, Deniz Köksal, Jochen Strähle and Matthias Freise by Gabriela Alves Ávila and Marina Seibert Cezar against women in Brazil 87 Sustainability and social responsability Liquid Fashion: change and transience associated to postmodernism 93 by Yasmin Araújo, Caroline O. P. Coutinho, by Sandra Bravo Durán Daniela Esterin theFerreira, brazilian Maria fashion Silvia Barros chain de Held, 141 Paula Hubner,
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