THE PACKET BOAT ERA ON THE OHIO

BY WILLIAM A. •V•cKAY Shelbyville,

The blast of the compressed air horn echoes throughout the Valley, and tremendously horsepowered diesel engines scream and roar as streamlined, screw-powered towboats now move the largest amount of freight ever seen on the Ohio. With the exception of the Belle o[ Louisville and the , the last of the passenger boats, significant of the romantic period of the , have passed from the scene. Not many of the original steamboat men are left in this busy world, but to those who are, the era of the packet boat will live forever in memory. The hauntingly melodious sound of the whistle by which each boat could be identified, even when around the bend or passing in the night, can no longer be heard. The sound of steam passing through the escape pipes; the smell of the cookhouse; the vibration of the boat as the bucket planks of the paddle wheel bite into'the water; all these are associated with the past, but they represent the glorious era when the river was the main means of transportation and, in some in- stances, the only contact with the outside world. Names such as Morning Star, Fleetwood, Island Queen, Robert E. Lee, , America, Indiana, Tacoma, Greenwood, Princess, Cris Greene, Tom Greene, Bonanza, John W. Hubbard, City of and City of Louisville were not pieces of steel or lumber molded into shape. To the many people who worked with them and traveled on them, they are living legends who had acted as humans act. Any one who has not been fortunate enough to have ridden on the great packets cannot describe the feeling of business, of exhilaration, of the strange and almost Undescribable bond that molded man and boat into one. The day of steamboat travel abounded with tales of the prowess of some boats. Crew members were proud of their jobs and of their boats, and this led to many races which have been recalled down through the years. Probably one of the most publicized races of all times was the one between the Natchez and the Robert E. Lee in 1870.1 Many other fast boats were challenged, and many unofficial and unpublicized races occurred. Many of the early races were impromptu affairs which hap- pened as a boat overtook another or as they battled to unload freight at the many landings along the section of the river on which they were

357 358 The Filson Club History Quarterly [Vol. 40 operating. During the 188•)'s and 1890's competition was keen along the Ohio River because the boat that could show the best time from point to point was usually the one who picked up most of the business. Many of these boats were built at the famous Howard Shipyards at Jaffetsonville, Indiana.2 For those river lovers of the packet era, the Howard Steamboat Museum is now open to the public. It contains a wealth of material and many interesting displays of steamboat days, and it is very capably presided over by the grand lady of the river, Mrs. Loretta Howard. Many packet lines operated on the river, overlapping each other in their quest for business. One that is still known to many people was the Louisville & Cincinnati Packet Co. whose main offices were in Cin- cinnati, Ohio. Commodore F. A. Laidley, General Manager and major stockholder of the Louisville and Cincinnati Line was quite a sportsman. Because of the intensity of competition, with faster and faster boats being built and placed in opposition to the line, this man contracted with the Howard Shipyards to build for his company a boat which would be the fastest packet boat ever to operate on the Western Waters. This new boat, named the City o[ Louisville, was the first boat to be side- launched from the ways of the Howard Shipyards. The City o[ LOuis- ville was to replace the Fleetwood, an older Louisville and Cincinnati Line boat with quite a reputation of her own. The cabin and the whistle of the Fleetwood were transferred to this new boat, and in April of 1894 she made her first trial run from Louisville to Cincinnati. The upstream trip took only 9 hours and 42 minutes, a record which stood until April 5, 1896, when the City of Louisville made the downstream run in 5 hours and 58 minutes, and the return trip to Cincinnati in 9 hours and 40 minutes, a time never equaled by any passenger boat.8 The "Big Jim," as the City o[ Louisville was affectionately called by the Negro roustabouts, was a giant side-wheeler, 301 feet long and 42.7 feet in width.4 Her side wheels were 40 feet in diameter. The Louis- ville, although one of the longest boats on the river, was narrower than most boats of her size. One of the most unusual and fascinating sights was a stream of water about ¼ inch in diameter which shot straight up from the bow in a continuous stream when she was underway." The City o[ Louisville was a powerful boat whose engines had been built especially for her by the Frisbee Engine Co. of Cincinnati, Ohio. Steam was generated by eight boilers with 4 firemen on watch and shoveling coal. On her weekly trips between Cincinnati and Louisville, she consumed approximately 10,000 bushels of coal. She had as chief engineer Henry McClanahan (now deceased) who served aboard her for her entire life from 1894 until 1918. He was very careful of the big engines, and never opened her to full head unless something special 1966] The Packet Boat Era 359 demanded it.6 Captain Roy L Barkhau was a frequent passenger on the City of Louisville. He had this to say about her power. "I remember we got on the old warhorse at Warsaw, Kentucky, at 9 P.M. one Sun- day evening, and were tied up at the wharf at Cincinnati at 11 P.M. The boat averaged approximately 15 miles per hour including the time elapsed for landing at Patriot, Rising Sun, Aurora, and Lawreneeburg, Indiana. I can still see the coffee slopping out of the cups on the tables on account of the vibration caused by the bucket planks of the great side wheels biting into the water. She had had fog the night before going down to Louisville and did not leave Louisville until late Sunday morn- ing, so she had to make up time. Henry McClanahan [chief engineer] was winding it into her. On a downstream run, I have heard her turn around out in front of the Florence, Indiana, wharfboat and from the screams that emanated from her stacks, it would not have surprised me to see them suddenly shoot up into the air. She really was a writhing monster and she acted as if she knew it.''7 The City o[ Louisville was luxurious throughout. She was licensed to carry 1,500 passengers, and state room accommodations were pro- vided for 160 persons. The main saloon, located on the passenger deck, was attractively decorated in white enamel and gold, and was comfortably and tastefully furnished. The ladies' cabin was a pleasant and cheerful room, especially fitted for the enjoyment and pleasure of the lady patrons. It was in the charge of an attentive stewardess who attended to the wants of the ladies and children,s The outside features of the City of Louisville were also outstanding. The great bell, which came from the Chicago World's Fair of 1893, supposedly contained 300 melted silver dollars, and weighed 1,980 pounds. It had one of the richest tones ever heard on the Ohio River. The house of the boat rested on top of the *'texas" or crew quar- ters. It furnished the instruments for the many most renowned river pilots who stood watch on the City o[ Louisville. On the pilot house were painted the figures 9:42 and 5:58. These were large enough to be read from the banks of the river. These numbers were placed there so all who saw would not forget that the City of Louisville held the record for the fastest time ever recorded for the trip from Cincinnati to Louisville and return. During her career, the City of Louisville was challenged several times by boats who had entered the trade between Cincinnati and Louisville for the expressed purpose of trying to outrun her. Needless to say, none ever did. When the Louisville was 21 years old, a new boat, the stern-wheeler, Homer Smith, came to Louisville to operate as an excursion boar. The crew of the Smith had the idea that she was a very fast boat, 360 The Filson Club History Quarterly [Vol. 40

and one morning as the Louisville was unloading freight at Madison, Indiana, the Smith passed down river. Some one called from the Smith to the Louisville, "Bring on your fast boat!" The Louisville continued to unload freight for some time, and then proceeded down river. Ap- proximately 15 miles west of Madison, Indiana, the Homer Smith was sighted and, after overtaking her, it was observed that the Smith was spoiling for a race. The Louisville literally jumped ahead on command from the pilot house for more speed. Crew members observed at the height of the race, which lasted only a short while, that live coals the size of walnuts were pouring from the Louisville's smokestacks.9 Need- less to say, the Homer Smith was left tying sideways in the Louisville's wheel swells. Packets on regular-scheduled runs were given priority over all other boats in entering narrow strips of deep water (called chutes), and in other places where one boat must have the right-of-way over another. Being a boat on a regularly-scheduled run, the Louisville was granted this privilege. On one occasion the Homer Smith challenged the Louis- ville at the entrance of the chute near Vevay, Indiana. The Louisville blew for passing clearance, but the Homer Smith, in attempting to out- distance the champion, entered the channel first. The Louisville rammed the Smith in the narrow channel. Fortunately no damage was done. The Cincinnati newspapers carried the headlines next day, "Homer Smith rammed by the City of Louisville." An inquiry was held, and the license of the Captain and the Pilot of the Homer Smith were suspended for 30 days.1° On the eve of the 4th of July, 1915, the Louisville landed head clown-river at Markland, Indiana. Her rudder, located at the extreme rear of the hull, struck the bank and was torn completely from the boat. The Louisville had a full load of passengers celebrating the holiday! Still another full load of passengers was booked at Louisville for the next morning. A "meet the boat trip," very popular during this period, was also scheduled. To cope with the lack of a rudder, 600 feet of 2-inch line was passed out over the stern to hold the boat straight, while the side wheels were used to help steer. On the 4th, she left as sched. uled at 9 A.M. from Louisville, and after arrival in Cincinnati, her rud- der was replaced.11 "Meet the boat trips" were very popular, and became increasingly so during the last years of the river packets. It was a pleasant Sunday afternoon pastime, and those who have had the pleasure of participating in these somewhat unusual occasions remember it with fondness. One boat might leave Louisville with regular passengers for Cincinnati, and a group of "meet the boat" passengers. Another boat would leave Cin- cinnati for Louisville with regular cargo plus "meet the boat" Vav 1966] The Packet Boat Era 361

sengers. The boats would meet, land together, and the "meet the boat" passengers would trade boats, andreturn to their starting points. This was a truly great recreational pastime for many of the Ohio Valley peo- ple. The City of Louisville and many other boats of this age partici- pated in this pastime. One of the last "meet the boat" trips, and one in which this writer participated, was about 1928. It involved the New Cincinnati and the ]ohn IF'. Hubbard, and occurred upstream from Madison, Indiana. The City of Louisville operated for many years without major accident or incident. One minor accident, which could have been tragic, oc- curred during the latter days of her career as she was passing 18 mile island (above Louisville) on an up-trip to Cincinnati. The wheel shaft on the starboard side broke and the wheel crashed through the gangway, destroying two staterooms. This incident happened during the dining hour, so luckily the state rooms were empty. Landing at Westport, Kentucky, the information was relayed to the Cincinnati office. She was instructed to proceed on one wheel, and the Carrell, a stern-wheeled towboat, was dispatched to help. The Carrell met the Louisville at Carrolltun, Kentucky, and freight for landings along the way was transferred to the Carrell, who was instructed to land and un- load cargo at various points. Between stops she was to tie to the Louisville's dead side and help. At Vevay, Indiana, the Carrell left the Louisville for the landing, and the Louisville went on toward Cincinnati. Despite the fact that the Louisville was operating on only one wheel, she made it to Cincinnati almost 2 hours before the Carrell arrived. TM The City o/Louisville carried a large crew, and it can truly be said that her long existence without serious accident was largely due to the efficiency and pride of the navigating crew, and especially to the pilots who guided her night and day in all sorts of weather without the bene- fit of buoys, locks, and darns or other navigational aid. Side-wheel steamers were much harder to steer than stern-wheel ones, because of the tendency of these boats to "run off," that is, they did not keep an even course in the water except by expert handling. This was especially true of the Natchez, of race fame. That boat was extremely hard to keep on an even course, and in the race with the Robert E. Lee, the Natchez "ran off" several times, and almost went to the bank of the . The late Capt. Edw. Maurer of Louisville, a pilot on the City o/Louisville for part of her career, remarked about her in very reverent tones, "She was a big piece of timber, especially coming around Sugar Creek Bend," east of Warsaw, Kentucky. Many of the passengers who were regular travelers on the old boats had their favorite pilots. The following poem is a tribute to Capt. Jack Lindenbern, one of the best pilots ever to stand behind the wheel in the 362 The Filson Club History Quarterly [Vol. 40 opinion of many. He was pilot of the City of Louisville, and was later the master of the City of Cincinnati which was built in 1899. The tribute was entitled "When Jack Was At The Wheel," and was written by the late Bessie H. Woolford of Madison, Indiana, during the 1890"s. In its nostalgic lines one can feel the admiration, the trust, and the almost superhuman aspect of a river pilot.

There are pilots on our rivers Who are steady, good and true Who do thei• duty bravely As brave men always do. There are pilots on our rivers With hands and nerves of steel And I'd like to tell you how it is When Jack is at the wheel.

O was't never hand so steady Nor never eye so true And he hails from "Old Kentucky" Where the grass is growing blue, And all the girls run to the door A loving glance to steal When the great "Big Sandy" whistles And Jack is at the wheel

And when at night up on the boat I lay me down to sleep And know that Jack's on duty there His faithful watch to keep. Not a thrill of apprehension Stirs the heart within my breast And peacefully as if at home I lay me down to rest.

And oft on cold and stormy nights I think how Jack must feel Way up there in the darkness With his hand upon the wheel And the great boat rushing onward Through the darkness and the night Hills and rivers all commingled And not one ray of light;

And the precious lives below him That are trusting in his care Then I know way down in his heart Jack breathes a little prayer Oh! His hand is strong and steady His heart no fear can feel And I know that God is watching too When Jack is at the wheel. 1966] The Packet Boat Era 363

The City of Louisville ran continually in the trade with her sister boat, the City o[ Cincinnati, except during times of low water, when other shallower draft boats which could more easily navigate the low channels were pressed into service. On one occasion the City of Louis- ville made a trip to for the Mardi Gras. On the way back up the Mississippi River between various points she equalled the Robert E. Lee's time, although she was not officially attempting to do so. In 1917 the entered World War I. The price of coal rose from 7¢ to 18¢ per bushel, and the tremendous amount used by the Louisville and her sister boat made it unprofitable to operate the boats. Therefore both boats were laid up at the wharf at Cincinnati. TM Many tales have been told of the terrible winter of 1917-18. In its intensity it was perhaps rivaled by only the winter of 1779-80 which has been recounted in the diaries and reports of many of Kentucky's early pioneers. In the 1917-18 winter, the Ohio River froze solid and re- mained frozen for some time. Both the Cincinnati and the Louisville had been moved to the mouth of the Licking River opposite Cincinnati, a natural ice harbor in normal winters. The ice broke in January of 1918, and it was decided that the flow of the ice gorge was such that the boats would be safer on the Ohio side of the Ohio River. They attempted to make the crossing, but the cutting intensity of the ice was too much for the wooden hulls of the boats, and both were sunk. The Cincinnati went down opposite Walnut Street, and the Louisville op- posite Broadway. Ironically, at the very moment that the City of Louis- ville was going down, the funeral procession of Capt. John Brennan, her master for 20 years, was on its way to his burial site in Covington, Ken- tucky.14 Although sunk to her second deck, the final chapter of the City of Louisville was yet to be written. That night the wind and the flow of current caused the "Big Jim" to drift down the river and to seek a permanent resting place just outside the wharf she had known for so many years. A queen to the last, she had come to die. With the destruction of these two great boats at Cincinnati, and with other packets and excursion boats up and down the Ohio River succumbing to the most severe winter in modern times, the era of the packet boat rapidly drew to a close. The Louisville & Cincinnati Packet Co. attempted to build another fleet, and a New Cincinnati and a New Louisville began to take shape on the drawing boards. The New Cincinnati was completed and placed into service, but with the develop- ment of other means of transportation, the economic importance of packet boats began to dwindle. The completed hull, which was sup- posed to have been the New Louisville, was sold to the Coney Island Company of Cincinnati, Ohio, to replace the 01d Island Queen, destroyed by the great river fire at Cincinnati on November 4, 1922. This fire 364 The Filson Club History Quarterly [Vol. 40

destroyed also the Cris Greene, the Tacoma, and the Morning Star.15 It is believed that the bell of the sunken City of Louisville was placed on the Morning Star and was partially destroyed by this fire but was then recast and placed on the New Island Queen which operated as an ex- cursion boat until she was destroyed in an explosion at in 1947. Tracing of whistles and bells from these old boats is somewhat akin to the workings of a genealogist in tracing the origin of families. For many years river men, including the late Capt. Leon Ash of Lamb, Indiana, searched to no avail for the bell of the Princess which was destroyed at the mouth of the Kentucky River at Carrollton, Kentucky, by the ice of 1917-18. Despite many dragging operations, the bell was never found in the deep waters of the Kentucky's mouth. TM Almost every one closely connected with the river had his favorite whistle. These whistles were in many instances handed down from boat to boat. The following is a description of one man's choice. "My favorite whistle was the old Bonanza whistle (the Bonanza was a packet boat, built in 1885 and lasting until 1909) on the City of Cin- cinnati. When that old boat began to whistle, little tingles went up and down my spine. At first there was a little high-pitched shriek prob- ably caused by the water left from the last blowing, and when the bells filled with steam the tone hit rock bottom and flowed out with a satiny smoothness with a quality that would raise the hair straight up on your head. My Uncle FA Krutz said he often had heard the rousrers say, in the hush after the tones died out, 'Go on hoss!' as a sort of after echo. I must say it did have a driving quality to it.''17 The deep-toned whistle of the City o[ Louisville was mounted on top of the pilot house. In this heyday of the packet, all boats were identifi- able by their whistles. The construction of these "voices" of the packets required a great art on the part of the builder, and each strove to obtain a blend of sound unsurpassed by that of any other boat whistle. Some of the steamboat whistles have been preserved at the Marietta, Ohio River museum. However, there you will find only a few from the old packet boats. In the era of packets, when steam was the rule rather than the excep- tion of propulsion, men, women, and even small children who lived near the river could tell from the sound of the whistle the identity of the boat that was passing or landing. Many of the various lines had land- ing whistles which were symbolic of the line. Some might blow a long and three short, or a long, a short, a long and two shorts, or some other combinations which made it easier for the people of the community to know which packet line was landing. In practically all boat disasters, a frantic attempt was made to save 1966] The Packet Boat Era 365 the whistle. Several years ago, long after the passing of the packets, the J. T. Hatfield Coal Co. had a towboat named the Julius Fleishmann, which had a beautiful whistle, clear and melodious. On an up-stream trip from Cincinnati, the Fleishmann struck a submerged snag and almost instantly capsized. Fortunately, all of the crew survived. The Captain immediately telephoned Mr. Hatfield to inform him of the dis- aster. Mr. Hatfield asked first ff all hands were safe, and then in a hesitant voice said, "Did you save the whistle?" The Captain replied with a note of sadness in his voice, "No.'" The deep voice of the City of Louisville's whistle reverberated through the Ohio River hills and valleys for 23 years. It sent chills through the bodies of many people who tried to catch a glimpse of her from the top of a hill or from the street of the small town as the stately monarch of the Ohio slipped by. After the loss of the Louisville in 1918, the whistle was placed on the America which ran for only a few years. This boat raced against the New Cincinnati near Louisville, and this was one of the last such races until a revival occurred in 1963 when the battled the Delta Queen as a part of the Ken- tucky Derby Festival. The whistle did not develop the same tones as it did on the Louisville. It was thought that this was largely due to a difference in steam pressure. The America was later converted into an excursion boat, and she was operated out of Louisville until fire, the nemesis of many great river boats, destroyed her near Jeffersonville, Indiana, in 1930. Several rewards were offered for the recovery of the whistle, but it has never been found. Two packets continued to operate on the Ohio River until 1950, when the Tom Greene and the Cris Greene of the Greene Line Steamers were retired. Before their final disposal by the Greene Line, these boats were converted into automobile carriers, and they operated between Cincinnati and Louisville. Their usual meeting place was near Cur- rollton, Kentucky, just before midnight. They were referred to a•ec- donately by those who knew them well as the "Hopping Tom" and the "Creeping Cris." In 1928 the Cris Greene participated in, and won a match race with the Betsy Ann, made famous by Capt. Frederick Way, river boat pilot, author, and compiler of Ways Steamboat Directory o[ Western Waters. 1" The arena for this race was the river from Cin- cinnati to New Richmond, Ohio. The steam towboat took the place of many of the packets during the early 30's and 40's. Among them began to appear the diesel towboat, called an outlaw by old-time river men. TM In time they became more common and the steam-powered boats all but disappeared from the river. During the 30's and 40's, too, the excursion boat became a very popular means of entertainment. Many boats from the Mississippi 366 The Filson Club History Quarterly [Vol. 40

River as well as from the Ohio River caused the excursion trade to boom, and they carried excursions from almost all of the towns along the Ohio River. The ]. S., named for John Streckfus of the Streckfus lines, made an occasional appearance as did the St. Paul and the Capitol. The ldlewild (now the Belle of Louisville) and the Island Queen also carried excursions (afternoon excursions for school children and river lovers, and moonlight excursions for just plain lovers). With the invention of many modern means of entertainment, the day of the excursion steamer passed. Now, only the Belle o[ Louisville and the passenger boat, the Delta Queen, remain. Riviere,2° the name given to the Ohio by the early French explorers, has changed. Diesel towboats, capable of moving much larger cargoes, operate on the river. A drive along the Ohio River above Cincinnati will disclose many "hulls of , once the pride of the river. Today some of these boats are being used as boat docks for the current craze, pleasure boat- ing. From the recently dedicated Meldahl Dam near Chilo, Ohio, and downstream to Cincinnati, the hulls of many of the steamboats known by the older generation dot the river banks, serving still as faithful sentinels to the whims of the younger generation. The era of the packet boat has come to an end. There are not many old-time rivermen left who can remember when these great boats (some great in size, others great in heart) plied the mighty Ohio River, and played a very important role in the lives of all with whom they came into contact. Of all the great packets that plied the Ohio River, un- doubtably the City o[ Louisville, with her great speed and her undis- putable possession of the title, "'Speed Queen of the Western Waters," captured the admiration and the imagination of more people than did any other boat. The packet boats served a need, a great need. Then, through prog- ress, were replaced with better and more adequate means of transporta- tion. But the romance of the era has been captured and held by many interested individuals as a symbol of our American Heritage.

FOOTNOTES X Barkhau, Roy Leslie, The (Pamphlet), Cinclnnad, Picture Marine Publishing Co., 1952 2Way, Frederick, Jr., Directory of Western Rivers' StG•ra Towboats, Sewicldey, Pe•, Steamboat Photo Co., 1954. a Photo•tet from original doQmaent given to each crew member, now in author's session • 4 Way, op. €/t. There is some dispute over the actual length. 1966] The Packet Boat Era 367

6 Statement by Captain W. 1L McKay, crew membec •lbig 7 Statement by Captain Roy L Barkhau, in letter dated May 28, 1963. s Brochure of Louisville & Cindnnad Packet Company, in author's possession. e Statement by Captain W. 1L McKay on board at the time. Collection of photographs of race owned by autho• ro Cb•inna•i Enquir• •: Statement by Captain R. W. McKay, crew member at the time. m Ibid.. la Ibla• 14 Ibid. 16 Captain Jesse Hughes' Steamboat Sketchbook. is participation in nperadon by writer. •* Statement by Roy L. Barkhau, in letter dated May 28, 1963. •s Captain Jesse Hughes' Steamboat Sketchbook. 20 Statement heard by author while working on river boat,. 20 Banta, R. E., The Ohio.

AUTHOR'S NOTfl: Referral in poem to "Big Sandy" is found in many writings. "Big Sandy" was a mythical boat as the "Horronico." The author gl•ew up along the banks of the Ohio River at Lamb, Indiana. W.R. McKay, the author's father, was and stir is actively connected with the river. From the author's earliest recollection be has been familiar with river boats, and much of the above writings are simply remembered by him because of his dose connection through his father with the old steamboat days. Captain W. R. McKay, now owner and master of the M. V. David UP. McKay, and Captain Russell Carr, are the only surviving crew mem- bers who served aboard the City of Louisvilla on her last run in 1917.