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Introduction: Clothing and Nationalism Studies

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Introduction: Clothing and Nationalism Studies Notes Introduction: Clothing and Nationalism Studies 1. Anthony Smith, Theories of Nationalism (London, 1971); Sukumar Periwal, ed., Notions of Nationalism (Budapest, 1995); Anthony Smith, The Nation in History: Historiographical Debates About Ethnicity and Nationalism (Hanover, 2000); Umut Özkırımlı, Theories of Nationalism (New York, 2000); Philip Spencer, Howard Wollman, Nationalism: A Critical Introduction (London, 2002); Paul Lawrence, Nationalism: History and Theory (Harlow, 2005). 2. Anthony Smith, The Ethnic Origins of Nations (Oxford, 1986), 21– 46. 3. Eugene Kamenka, Nationalism: The Nature and Evolution of an Idea (London, 1974), 4. Dawa Norbu even divided “ proto- nationalism” into stages, see Culture and the Politics of Third World Nationalism (London, 1992), 31– 46. 4. Karen Brutents, National Liberation Revolutions Today (Moscow, 1977), 1:134. 5. Roy Burman, “National Movements among Tribes,” Secular Democracy 4. 3– 4 (1971), 25– 33. 6. John Breuilly, Nationalism and the State (Chicago, 1993), 5. 7. Alexander Maxwell, “Typologies and Phases in Nationalism Studies: Hroch’s A- B- C Schema as a Basis for Comparative Terminology,” Nationalities Papers 38.6 (November 2010), 865– 80. 8. Rogers Brubaker, Nationalism Reframed (Cambridge, 1996), 16. 9. Benedict Anderson, Imagined Communities (London, 1991), 6. 10. Daniel Roche, The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the ‘Ancien Régime’ (Cambridge, 1994 [1989]), 239. 11. John Carl Flugel, The Psychology of Clothes (London, 1950 [1930]), 15, 25. 12. Marilyn Horn, The Second Skin: An Interdisciplinary Study of Clothing (Boston, 1968), 418. 13. Roche, The Culture of Clothing; Daniel Purdy, The Tyranny of Elegance: Consumer Cosmopolitanism in Era of Goethe (Baltimore, 1998). 14. Jürgen Holtz, Die grosse Weltgeschichte – Zeitalter der Revolutionen: 1648– 1860 (Ausgburg, 2007); Franco Vignazia, Das Zeitalter der Revolutionen, 1700– 1850 (Düsseldorf, 1981); Marco Guidi, Nanda Torcellan, Europe 1700– 1992: L’eta delle rivoluzioni (Milan, 1991); Louis Girard, Le temps des revolutions: 1715– 1870 (Paris, 1966); Karin Sennefelt, Patrik Winton, Scandinavia in the Age of Revolution … 1740– 1820 (Farnham, 2011); Gregory Fremont- Barnes, ed., Encyclopedia of the Age of Political Revolutions and New Ideologies, 1760– 1815 (Westport, 2007); Werner Hilgemann, Die Welt 1763– 1860: Das Zeitalter der Revolutionen (Darmstadt, 2000); David Davis, The Problem of Slavery in the Age of Revolution, 1770– 1823 (Ithaca, 1975); Mattioli, Ries, Rudolph, eds., Intoleranz im Zeitalter der Revolutionen. Europa, 1770– 1848 (Zürich, 2004); Serge Bianchi et al., Ré voltes et ré volutions de 1773 à 1802 (Nantes, 2004); Joel Cornette, Le temps des revolutions: de 1774 à 1812 (Paris, 1996); Roger Chickering, Stig Förster, War in an Age of Revolution, 1775– 1815 (Cambridge, 2010); Michael Scrivener, The Cosmopolitan Ideal in the Age of Revolution 237 238 Notes and Reaction, 1776– 1832 (London, 2007); Pietro Costa, Civitas: L’età delle rivoluzioni, 1789– 1848 (Rome, 2000); Eric Hobsbawm, Age of Revolutions, 1789– 1848 (London, 1962). 15. The same page also begins the discussion of Poland. W.N. Hargreaves- Mawdsley, A History of Legal Dress in Europe Until the End of the Eighteenth Century (Oxford, 1963), 115. 16. Millia Davenport, The Book of Costume (New York, 1948), 2:688, 721. 17. Racinet’s Franco- centricism is even more striking in his section on the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries: over two- thirds of his plates show French clothes. For the period 1400– 1800, Racinet has 81½ plates on France, 11½ plates on Germany, 21½ plates on Italy, 7 plates on England, 7½ on Holland, and 2 on Spain. For the nineteenth century, the figures are as follows: France 16, Spain 12, Russia 11, Poland 9, Netherlands 6, Sweden 4½, Italy and England 4, Switzerland and European Turkey 3, Germany, Portugal, and “Hungary and Croatia” 2, Norway 1½, Ukraine 1. These figures disregard plates purporting to show “European” fashion. Auguste Racinet, Le costume historique (Paris, 1888), reprinted as The Complete Costume History (Cologne, 2003). 18. Peter Stearns, Consumerism in World History: The Global Transformation of Desire (London, 2001), 19. 19. David Gilbert, “Urban Outfitting: The City and the Spaces of Fashion Culture,” in: Bruzzi, Gibson, eds., Fashion Cultures (London, 2000), 16. 1 Fashion as a Social Problem 1. Charles Hickling, “The Fashion,” in: The Pleasures of Life, and Other Poems (Nottingham, 1861), 232. 2. Anne Hollander, Seeing Through Clothes (Berkeley, 1975), 364– 65. 3. “Ueber Moden,” Allgemeine Moden- Zeitung 87 (28 October 1808), 689. 4. Radu Stern, ed., Against Fashion: Clothing as Art, 1850– 1930 (Boston, 2003). 5. Henry van de Velde, “Die kunstlerische Hebung der Frauentracht” (Krefeld, 1900), in: Stern, Against Fashion, 128. 6. Oscar Wilde, “More Radical Ideas upon Dress Reform,” Pall Mall Gazette 40.6224 (11 November 1884), cited from Stern, Against Fashion, 118. 7. E.W. Godwin, “A Lecture on Dress (1868)”; The Mask (6 April 1914), cited from Stern, Against Fashion, 94, 95. 8. Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (London, 2005 [1985]), 48. 9. Myra MacDonald, Representing Women: Myths of Femininity in the Popular Media (London, 1995), 211. 10. Patricia Oder, Der Frauen neue Kleider: Das Reformkleid und die Konstruktion des modernen Frauenkörpers (Berlin, 2005), 91. 11. “The Bloomers and the Tailor,” Punch, or London Charivari 21 (1851), 232. Reproduced with permission of Punch, Ltd., www.punch.co.uk. 12. Ada Ballin, The Science of Dress in Theory and Practice (London, 1885), 27. 13. Joanne Hollows, “Fashion and Beauty Practices,” in: Feminism, Femininity and Popular Culture (Manchester, 2000), 137– 60; Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art and Reason (London, 1974); Patricia Ober, Der Frauen neue Kleider (Berlin, 2005); Mary Wagener, “Fashion and Feminism in Fin de Siècle Notes 239 Vienna,” Woman’s Art Journal 10.2 (Autumn 1989– Winter 1990), 29– 33; Carin Schnitger, “Ijdelheid hoeft geen ondeugd te zijn: De Vereeniging voor Verbeetering van Vrouwenkleeding,” in: De eerste feministische golf (Nijmegen, 1985), 163– 85; Eva Uchalová, Women’s Dress as an Expresion of Social Development in Bohemia (Budapest, 1999). 14. Ann Rosalind Jones, Peter Stallybrass, Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory (Cambridge, 2000), 178. 15. Carole Collier Frick, Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes and Fine Clothing (Baltimore, 2002), 96. 16. Alexander Martin, “Precarious Existences: Middling Households in Moscow and the Fire of 1812,” in: Siefert, Rieber, eds., Extending the Borders of Russian History (Budapest, 2003), 76. 17. I.F. Castell, “Ein neuer Rock,” in: Wiener Lebensbilder (Vienna, 1844), 228– 29. 18. Castell, “Ein neuer Rock,” 229– 30. 19. Leigh Hunt, “A Chapter on Hats,” Essays (London, 1841), 56. 20. “Schemes for Uniformity of Dress,” in: Gentleman’s Magazine 7 ( July 1737), 432. 21. Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus: The Life and Opinions of Herr Teufelsdröckh (Boston, 1837 [London, 1834]), 41. 22. Petko Slavejkov, “Pismo na edno desetgodishno dete koeto sega pruˇv puˇt e doshlo v Tsarigrad,” in Gajda 1.18 (1864), cited from: Sonia Baeva, ed., Suˇchinenia (Sofia, 1973), 5:334. Thanks to Svetlana Doncheva for this refer- ence and translation. 23. “An Essay on Fashions, extracted from the Holland Spectator,” Gentleman’s Magazine 6 ( July 1736), 377. 24. Augusta Hall [as Lady Llanover], ed., Autobiography and Correspondence of Mary Granville, Mrs. Delaney (London, 1862), 2:310. 25. “K.” Best Dressed Man: A Gossip on Manners and Modes (London, 1892), 64. 26. Jakub Všetecˇka, “Moda v aforismech,” Ženský sveˇt 22.2 (20 January 1918), 308. 27. Ludwig Foglar, “Gegen Frack und Hut,” Wiener Sonntagsblätter 7.19/8 (1848), 322. 28. Theodor Wildau, “Der Tip- Top- Kopf- Topf – Jeremiade eines Ehemanns,” Der Floh (4 April 1909), 2. 29. See “Vorschläge zur neuen Frühjahrsmode,” Erika: Die frohe Zeitung für Front und Heimat 8 (February 1941). 30. “De Plus en Plus Simple, de Plus en Plus Fort,” Marie Claire 78 (26 August 1938), 13; picture from 14. Thanks to Jennie Farmer of the Victoria and Albert Museum and Edith Serkownek of the June F. Mohler Fashion library for help tracking down this reference. 31. Hat design by Louise Bourbon, photographed by Georges Saad. 32. “A Hat is a Hat is a …” Time (4 October 1943). Thanks to Edith Serkownek of the June F. Mohler Fashion Library for this reference. 33. “HP” “Mode Tagtoepfe, 1909,” Der Floh (11 April 1909), 4. Provided by the Österreichische Nationalbibliothek. 34. Figure 158, “Average Hours and Earnings of Wage Earners in Manufacturing, in: Morris Hansen, ed., Statistical Abstract of the United States, 1944– 45 (Washington, 1944), 161. 35. See Dafydd Jones, “Can Newydd, sef fflangell geiniog, i chwipio y cylchau o beisiau y Merched” (no publishing data, c. 1850), available from University of Wales, Bangor, Llyfrau Prin /Rare Books – Cerddi Bangor 22 (163). 36. Bayard Taylor, Travels in Greece and Russia (New York, 1859), 363. 240 Notes 37. Catriona Kelly, “‘Better Halves’? Representations of Women in Russian Urban Popular Entertainments, 1870– 1910,” in: Linda Harriet Edmondson, ed., Women and Society in Russia and the Soviet Union (Cambridge, 1992), 17; Kelly cites Noveishii Pesennik, perhaps the Noveiishii polnyi russkii piesennik (Moscow, 1854), 336. 38. “Megint egy rágalom a krinolin ellen,” Az Üstökös 1.1 ( August– December 1858). 39. “Literary Miscellanies,” The Eclectic Magazine of Foreign Literature, Science and Art ( June 1862),
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