Notes
Introduction: Clothing and Nationalism Studies
1. Anthony Smith, Theories of Nationalism (London, 1971); Sukumar Periwal, ed., Notions of Nationalism (Budapest, 1995); Anthony Smith, The Nation in History: Historiographical Debates About Ethnicity and Nationalism (Hanover, 2000); Umut Özkırımlı, Theories of Nationalism (New York, 2000); Philip Spencer, Howard Wollman, Nationalism: A Critical Introduction (London, 2002); Paul Lawrence, Nationalism: History and Theory (Harlow, 2005). 2. Anthony Smith, The Ethnic Origins of Nations (Oxford, 1986), 21– 46. 3. Eugene Kamenka, Nationalism: The Nature and Evolution of an Idea (London, 1974), 4. Dawa Norbu even divided “ proto- nationalism” into stages, see Culture and the Politics of Third World Nationalism (London, 1992), 31– 46. 4. Karen Brutents, National Liberation Revolutions Today (Moscow, 1977), 1:134. 5. Roy Burman, “National Movements among Tribes,” Secular Democracy 4.3– 4 (1971), 25– 33. 6. John Breuilly, Nationalism and the State (Chicago, 1993), 5. 7. Alexander Maxwell, “Typologies and Phases in Nationalism Studies: Hroch’s A- B- C Schema as a Basis for Comparative Terminology,” Nationalities Papers 38.6 (November 2010), 865– 80. 8. Rogers Brubaker, Nationalism Reframed (Cambridge, 1996), 16. 9. Benedict Anderson, Imagined Communities (London, 1991), 6. 10. Daniel Roche, The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the ‘Ancien Régime’ (Cambridge, 1994 [1989]), 239. 11. John Carl Flugel, The Psychology of Clothes (London, 1950 [1930]), 15, 25. 12. Marilyn Horn, The Second Skin: An Interdisciplinary Study of Clothing (Boston, 1968), 418. 13. Roche, The Culture of Clothing; Daniel Purdy, The Tyranny of Elegance: Consumer Cosmopolitanism in Era of Goethe (Baltimore, 1998). 14. Jürgen Holtz, Die grosse Weltgeschichte – Zeitalter der Revolutionen: 1648– 1860 (Ausgburg, 2007); Franco Vignazia, Das Zeitalter der Revolutionen, 1700– 1850 (Düsseldorf, 1981); Marco Guidi, Nanda Torcellan, Europe 1700– 1992: L’eta delle rivoluzioni (Milan, 1991); Louis Girard, Le temps des revolutions: 1715– 1870 (Paris, 1966); Karin Sennefelt, Patrik Winton, Scandinavia in the Age of Revolution … 1740– 1820 (Farnham, 2011); Gregory Fremont- Barnes, ed., Encyclopedia of the Age of Political Revolutions and New Ideologies, 1760– 1815 (Westport, 2007); Werner Hilgemann, Die Welt 1763– 1860: Das Zeitalter der Revolutionen (Darmstadt, 2000); David Davis, The Problem of Slavery in the Age of Revolution, 1770– 1823 (Ithaca, 1975); Mattioli, Ries, Rudolph, eds., Intoleranz im Zeitalter der Revolutionen. Europa, 1770– 1848 (Zürich, 2004); Serge Bianchi et al., Ré voltes et ré volutions de 1773 à 1802 (Nantes, 2004); Joel Cornette, Le temps des revolutions: de 1774 à 1812 (Paris, 1996); Roger Chickering, Stig Förster, War in an Age of Revolution, 1775– 1815 (Cambridge, 2010); Michael Scrivener, The Cosmopolitan Ideal in the Age of Revolution
237 238 Notes
and Reaction, 1776– 1832 (London, 2007); Pietro Costa, Civitas: L’età delle rivoluzioni, 1789– 1848 (Rome, 2000); Eric Hobsbawm, Age of Revolutions, 1789– 1848 (London, 1962). 15. The same page also begins the discussion of Poland. W.N. Hargreaves- Mawdsley, A History of Legal Dress in Europe Until the End of the Eighteenth Century (Oxford, 1963), 115. 16. Millia Davenport, The Book of Costume (New York, 1948), 2:688, 721. 17. Racinet’s Franco- centricism is even more striking in his section on the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries: over two- thirds of his plates show French clothes. For the period 1400– 1800, Racinet has 81½ plates on France, 11½ plates on Germany, 21½ plates on Italy, 7 plates on England, 7½ on Holland, and 2 on Spain. For the nineteenth century, the figures are as follows: France 16, Spain 12, Russia 11, Poland 9, Netherlands 6, Sweden 4½, Italy and England 4, Switzerland and European Turkey 3, Germany, Portugal, and “Hungary and Croatia” 2, Norway 1½, Ukraine 1. These figures disregard plates purporting to show “European” fashion. Auguste Racinet, Le costume historique (Paris, 1888), reprinted as The Complete Costume History (Cologne, 2003). 18. Peter Stearns, Consumerism in World History: The Global Transformation of Desire (London, 2001), 19. 19. David Gilbert, “Urban Outfitting: The City and the Spaces of Fashion Culture,” in: Bruzzi, Gibson, eds., Fashion Cultures (London, 2000), 16.
1 Fashion as a Social Problem
1. Charles Hickling, “The Fashion,” in: The Pleasures of Life, and Other Poems (Nottingham, 1861), 232. 2. Anne Hollander, Seeing Through Clothes (Berkeley, 1975), 364– 65. 3. “Ueber Moden,” Allgemeine Moden- Zeitung 87 (28 October 1808), 689. 4. Radu Stern, ed., Against Fashion: Clothing as Art, 1850– 1930 (Boston, 2003). 5. Henry van de Velde, “Die kunstlerische Hebung der Frauentracht” (Krefeld, 1900), in: Stern, Against Fashion, 128. 6. Oscar Wilde, “More Radical Ideas upon Dress Reform,” Pall Mall Gazette 40.6224 (11 November 1884), cited from Stern, Against Fashion, 118. 7. E.W. Godwin, “A Lecture on Dress (1868)”; The Mask (6 April 1914), cited from Stern, Against Fashion, 94, 95. 8. Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (London, 2005 [1985]), 48. 9. Myra MacDonald, Representing Women: Myths of Femininity in the Popular Media (London, 1995), 211. 10. Patricia Oder, Der Frauen neue Kleider: Das Reformkleid und die Konstruktion des modernen Frauenkörpers (Berlin, 2005), 91. 11. “The Bloomers and the Tailor,” Punch, or London Charivari 21 (1851), 232. Reproduced with permission of Punch, Ltd., www.punch.co.uk. 12. Ada Ballin, The Science of Dress in Theory and Practice (London, 1885), 27. 13. Joanne Hollows, “Fashion and Beauty Practices,” in: Feminism, Femininity and Popular Culture (Manchester, 2000), 137– 60; Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art and Reason (London, 1974); Patricia Ober, Der Frauen neue Kleider (Berlin, 2005); Mary Wagener, “Fashion and Feminism in Fin de Siècle Notes 239
Vienna,” Woman’s Art Journal 10.2 (Autumn 1989– Winter 1990), 29– 33; Carin Schnitger, “Ijdelheid hoeft geen ondeugd te zijn: De Vereeniging voor Verbeetering van Vrouwenkleeding,” in: De eerste feministische golf (Nijmegen, 1985), 163– 85; Eva Uchalová, Women’s Dress as an Expresion of Social Development in Bohemia (Budapest, 1999). 14. Ann Rosalind Jones, Peter Stallybrass, Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory (Cambridge, 2000), 178. 15. Carole Collier Frick, Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes and Fine Clothing (Baltimore, 2002), 96. 16. Alexander Martin, “Precarious Existences: Middling Households in Moscow and the Fire of 1812,” in: Siefert, Rieber, eds., Extending the Borders of Russian History (Budapest, 2003), 76. 17. I.F. Castell, “Ein neuer Rock,” in: Wiener Lebensbilder (Vienna, 1844), 228– 29. 18. Castell, “Ein neuer Rock,” 229– 30. 19. Leigh Hunt, “A Chapter on Hats,” Essays (London, 1841), 56. 20. “Schemes for Uniformity of Dress,” in: Gentleman’s Magazine 7 ( July 1737), 432. 21. Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus: The Life and Opinions of Herr Teufelsdröckh (Boston, 1837 [London, 1834]), 41. 22. Petko Slavejkov, “Pismo na edno desetgodishno dete koeto sega pruˇv puˇt e doshlo v Tsarigrad,” in Gajda 1.18 (1864), cited from: Sonia Baeva, ed., Suˇchinenia (Sofia, 1973), 5:334. Thanks to Svetlana Doncheva for this refer- ence and translation. 23. “An Essay on Fashions, extracted from the Holland Spectator,” Gentleman’s Magazine 6 ( July 1736), 377. 24. Augusta Hall [as Lady Llanover], ed., Autobiography and Correspondence of Mary Granville, Mrs. Delaney (London, 1862), 2:310. 25. “K.” Best Dressed Man: A Gossip on Manners and Modes (London, 1892), 64. 26. Jakub Všetecˇka, “Moda v aforismech,” Ženský sveˇt 22.2 (20 January 1918), 308. 27. Ludwig Foglar, “Gegen Frack und Hut,” Wiener Sonntagsblätter 7.19/8 (1848), 322. 28. Theodor Wildau, “Der Tip- Top- Kopf- Topf – Jeremiade eines Ehemanns,” Der Floh (4 April 1909), 2. 29. See “Vorschläge zur neuen Frühjahrsmode,” Erika: Die frohe Zeitung für Front und Heimat 8 (February 1941). 30. “De Plus en Plus Simple, de Plus en Plus Fort,” Marie Claire 78 (26 August 1938), 13; picture from 14. Thanks to Jennie Farmer of the Victoria and Albert Museum and Edith Serkownek of the June F. Mohler Fashion library for help tracking down this reference. 31. Hat design by Louise Bourbon, photographed by Georges Saad. 32. “A Hat is a Hat is a …” Time (4 October 1943). Thanks to Edith Serkownek of the June F. Mohler Fashion Library for this reference. 33. “HP” “Mode Tagtoepfe, 1909,” Der Floh (11 April 1909), 4. Provided by the Österreichische Nationalbibliothek. 34. Figure 158, “Average Hours and Earnings of Wage Earners in Manufacturing, in: Morris Hansen, ed., Statistical Abstract of the United States, 1944– 45 (Washington, 1944), 161. 35. See Dafydd Jones, “Can Newydd, sef fflangell geiniog, i chwipio y cylchau o beisiau y Merched” (no publishing data, c. 1850), available from University of Wales, Bangor, Llyfrau Prin /Rare Books – Cerddi Bangor 22 (163). 36. Bayard Taylor, Travels in Greece and Russia (New York, 1859), 363. 240 Notes
37. Catriona Kelly, “‘Better Halves’? Representations of Women in Russian Urban Popular Entertainments, 1870– 1910,” in: Linda Harriet Edmondson, ed., Women and Society in Russia and the Soviet Union (Cambridge, 1992), 17; Kelly cites Noveishii Pesennik, perhaps the Noveiishii polnyi russkii piesennik (Moscow, 1854), 336. 38. “Megint egy rágalom a krinolin ellen,” Az Üstökös 1.1 ( August– December 1858). 39. “Literary Miscellanies,” The Eclectic Magazine of Foreign Literature, Science and Art ( June 1862), 286. The Eclectic Magazine cites the London Observer. 40. Punch, or London Charivari 104 (28 January 1893), 41; Grove, Henley, eds., The New Review (London, 1897), 191– 98. 41. See Petko Slavejkov, “Prochitame v ‘Kurie d’Orian’,” in: Suˇchinenia (Sofia, 1978), 2:354. 42. “Crinolineomania, Treated Pathologically by Dr. Punch,” Punch or London Charivari 31 (1856), 253. The French Charivari also mocked the crinoline; see the cartoon “Der Männerfang,” in: Friedrich Wendel, Die Mode in der Karikatur (Dresden, 1928), 140. 43. “What a Ridiculous Fashion!” Punch’s Almanack (21 August 1858), 79. 44. Slavejkov, Malakov [The Crinoline], in: Su˘chinenia, 5:168. 5:175. 45. “Kleidungsart in’s Kolossale,” Luna, Beiblatt zur Agramer politischen Zeitung 50 (23 June 1841), 207. 46. Jennifer Michell Jones, Sexing la Mode (Oxford, 2004), 147– 48. 47. See El duende especulativo, no. 1– 2 (1761) 1– 27, 329– 50; cited from Sally Ann Kitts, The Debate on the Nature, Role and Influence of Women in Eighteenth- Century Spain (Lewiston, 1995), 119. 48. Julie Crawford, Marvelous Protestantism: Monstrous Births in Post- Reformation England (Baltimore, 2005), 46. 49. M. Cruz García de Enterría, “El cuerpo entre predicadores y copleros,” in: Augustin Redondo, ed., Le corps dans la société espagnole des XVI at XVII siècles (Paris, 1990), 235– 36; cited from Gabriel Guarino, “Regulation of Appearances During the Catholic Reformation,” in: Zinguer, Yardeni, eds., Les Deux Réformes Chrétiennes: Propagation et Diffusion (Leiden, 2004), 499. 50. On moralist anti- fashion, see Aileen Ribeiro, Dress and Morality (Oxford, 2003). 51. Jones, Stallybrass, Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory, 77– 78. 52. John Smith, Chronicon Rusticum- commerciale; or Memoirs of Wool (London, 1747), 120. 53. Crawford, Marvelous Protestantism, 48. 54. “Die duch eine wunderliche Kalbs- oder Miß- Geburt von Gott bestraffte Frauenzimmer Hauben- Mode” (Hanau, 1689); cited from S. Sander, “Blicke auf angeborene Fehlbindungen in der frühen Neuzeit,” in: Ludwig Zichner, ed., Erst- und Frühbeschreibungen orthopädischer Krankheitsbilder (Darmstadt, 2003), 27. 55. Cited from Alan Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law (London, 1996), 234. 56. Emphasis in original. Bedrˇich Vašek, Móda a dnešní ženský sveˇt, pamphlet from the series “Životem,” no. 52 (Olomouc, 1930), 3, 8, 10, 23. 57. “Grandeur et décadence de la feuille de figuier,” cited from Elizabeth Menon, Evil by Design: The Creation and Marketing of the Femme Fatale (Urbana, Chicago, 2006), 45. Notes 241
58. Alfred Grévin, “La première des crinolines fut un feuille de figurer,” Filles d’Eve (Paris, 1887), cited and reproduced in Menon, Evil by Design, 47. 59. Cited from Daniel Purdy, “Sculptured Soldiers and the Beauty of Discipline,” in: Henn, Pausch, eds., Body Dialectics in the Age of Goethe (Amsterdam, 2003), 23. 60. Brummel, “Dress News Collected and Dissected,” Fashion ( July 1898), 19. 61. Morag Martin, “Doctoring Beauty: The Medical Control of Women’s Toilettes in France, 1750– 1820,” Medical History 49.3 (2005), 352– 53. 62. See e.g. “On Children’s Dress,” Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine 5 (1856– 57), 310– 15. 63. For a brief overview, see “Health and Science,” in: Peter McNeil, “The Appearance of Enlightenment: Refashioning the Elites,” in: Martin Fitzpatrick et al., eds., The Enlightenment World (London, 2004), 396– 97. 64. Jonas Jeitteles, “Über die Moden,” Sulamith 5.2 (1817), 28, 32. 65. Akim Charukovskij, Narodnaya meditsyna (St. Petersburg, 1844), 329, cited from Catriona Kelly, Refining Russia (Oxford, 2001), 123. 66. Mekarski v. Menk, “Winterdiätetik – Kleidung,” Populäre österreichische Gesundheitszeitung 16 (23 February 1833), 61. 67. Anon., Health for the Million; with Observations on unhealthy Employments (London, 1858), 75. 68. Georg Friedrich Most, Moderner Todtentanz, oder die Schnürbrüste, auch Corsettes (Hanover: Helwing, 1824), also available in Dutch as Het Keurslijf of Korset (Zwolle, 1831); Carl Otto, Kvindelegemet og Korsettet (Copenhagen, 1906); Ludovic O’Followell, Le Corset, Histoire, médecine, hygène (Paris, 1908); Samuel von Sömmering, Über die Wirkungen der Schnürbrüste (Leipzig, 1793); Henri- Victor Bouvier, Études historiques et médicales sur l’usage des corsets (Paris, 1853); Alexandre Layet, Dangers de l’usage des corsets et des buscs (Paris, 1827); Corbin, “Des effets produits par les corsets sur les organes de l’abdomen,” Gazette médicale de Paris (1830); George Henry Lewis, The Physiology of Common Life (Edinburgh, 1859), 367– 68; Wilberforce Smith, “Corset- Wearing: The Medical Side of the Attack,” Aglaia (Spring 1894), 31– 35. 69. “On the compression of the waist in females, by the use of corsets,” The Scotsman (20 May 1829), 1; “Tight- lacing,” The London Review (16 May 1868), 495– 96; The Lancet (28 May – 4 June 1881), 877, 939; “Female Hallucinations,” The Scotsman (22 March 1883), 3; “The Corset at the Paris Academy,” The Scotsman (21 February 1895), 7; “Sådan kan det gå!” Husmoderens Blad: Praktisk ugeblad for Kvinden og Hjemmet (1898), 279; “Modens Skønedsideal,” Husmoderns Blad (1898), 124ff.; George Viterbo, “Corset et féminisme,” Les dessous elégants (August 1904), 138– 39. 70. “Preventable diseases,” Punch or London Charivari 36 (1859), 235; “A Wanton Warning to Vanity,” Punch or London Charivari 57 (1869), 126; “Death from Tight Lacing,” The Lancet (3 August 1889), 675; Elise Manard, “Fatal Corsets, or the Paris of Tight- lacing,” Womanhood (April 1903). 71. Edward Bradley [as Cuthbert Bede], “The Tyrant Fashion and Alamode his Wife,” in: The Shilling Book of Beauty (London, 1858), 57. 72. Paul Schultze- Naumberg, Die Kultur des Weiblichen Körpers als Grundlage der Frauenkleidung (Leipzig, 1901), 152. 73. Friedrich Theodor Frerichs, A Clinical Treatiese on Diseases of the Liver (London, 1861), 1:45. 242 Notes
74. Claudius Buchanan (?), “A Series of Letters First Published in Bengal on the Subject of Female Apparel, Tending to Favor a Regulated Adoption of Indian Costume, and a Rejection of Superfluous Vesture, by the Ladies of this Country,” in: The Ladies Monitor (London, 1809), 28. 75. Hedwig Dohm, “Kindheitserrinerungen einer altern Berlinerin,” in: Ida Boy, ed., Als unsere große Dichterinnen noch kleine Mädchen waren (Leipzig, 1912), 33; Ruth- Ellen Boetcher Jones, Respectibility and Deviance: Nineteenth- Century German Woman Writers and the Ambiguity of Representation (Chicago, 1998), 135. 76. Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture and Identity (Chicago, 1992), 175. 77. See Michael Hau, The Cult of Health and Beauty in Germany: A Social History, 1890– 1930 (Chicago, 2003), 59. 78. Simone de Beauvoir, The Second Sex (New York, 1974), 595. 79. Valerie Steele, The Corset: A Cultural History (New Haven, 2001); Sally Wheeler, “Going Shopping,” in: Linda Mulcahy, Sally Wheeler, Feminist Perspectives on Contract Law (London, 2005), 37– 38. 80. Orson Fowler, Intemperance and Tight- lacing (New York, 1846; Manchester, c. 1890). 81. E.M. King of Gentleman’s Magazine, 1880, cited from: Stella Mary Newton, Health, Art and Reason (London, 1974), 125. 82. Moritz Platen, “Weib als Gattungswesen,” in Die Neue Heilmethode (Berlin, 1928), 195– 97, cited from Hau, The Cult of Health and Beauty, 59. 83. Advert, Penny Newspaper (18 July 1891), 15. 84. Both quotations from “Madame Caplin of Berners- street,” see “Exhibition of all Nations – Science applied to the preservation of the female form,” Daily News (17 June 1851), 4. Another merchant claimed that her corsets preserved “freedom of motion … so essential to the preservation of heath”; see Advert, Manchester Guardian (1 February 1851) 3. 85. Madame de la Santé, The Corset Defended (London, 1865). 86. Andrzej Wolan, O wolnos´ci Rzeczypospolitej albo szlacheckiej (Vilnius, 1606); cited from Maria Bogucka, Women in Early Modern Polish Society (Aldershot, 2004), 99; Bocucka provides several similar passages from other Polish thinkers. 87. Johann Zedler, Universal- Lexicon (Halle, 1732), 707– 708. 88. Cited from Jennifer Michell Jones, Sexing la Mode: Gender, Fashion and Commercial Culture in Old Regime France (Oxford, 2004), 147. 89. Thoma Sergiescu, Femeea virtuoasa sauˇ celle trei epoce alle femei (Bucharest, 1868), 37. 90. “Raskoshnosta u nas,” in Chitalishte 3.1 (30 October 1872), 29. Thanks to Svetlana Doncheva for this reference and translation. 91. Bogucka, Women in Early Modern Polish Society, 98. 92. Jones, Sexing la Mode, 146. 93. Rebecca Messbarger, The Century of Women: Representations of Women in Eighteenth- Century Italian Public Discourse (Toronto, 2002), 17; see also Kitts, The Debate on the Nature, Role and Influence of Women, 117– 24; 75– 76. 94. Rebecca Haidt, “The Name of the Clothes: Petimetras and the Problem of Luxury’s Refinements,” Dieciochio 23.1 (Spring 2000), 75. 95. Palmira Brummett, “Dressing for Revolution: Mother, Nation, Citizen and Subversive in the Ottoman Satirical Press,” in: Zehra Arat, Deconstructing Images of ‘the Turkish Woman’ (New York, 2000), 53. Notes 243
96. Christopher Breward, The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life, 1860– 1914 (Manchester, 1999), 2. 97. John Evelyn, Tyrannus, or the Mode (London, 1661); cited from William Bray, ed., Memoirs Illustrative of the Life and Writings of John Evelyn (New York, 1870), 751. 98. “Luxus,” Wiburgs Macherley zum Nutzen und Vergnügen 5 (1 May 1821), 132. 99. “Of Dress and Modesty,” Gentleman’s Magazine 1 (September 1731), 388– 89. 100. “An Essay on Fashions, extracted from the Holland Spectator,” Gentleman’s Magazine 6 ( July 1736), 388. 101. Johann Ludwig Folnesics, ed., Zeitblätter für Freunde wahrer Menschenbildung 19 (4 September 1818), 147– 48. 102. “Männer Koketterie,” Wiener Modezeitung 5 (1 February 1816); cited from the approving Folnesics, Zeitblätter für Freunde wahrer Menschenbildung, 100. 103. “Männliche Eitlekeit,” Allgemeine Moden- Zeitung 37 (3 May 1807), 300. 104. Judity Vowles, “The ‘Feminization’ of Russian Literature: Women, Language and Literature in Eighteenth- Century Russia,” in: Clyman, Greene, eds., Women Writers in Russian Literature (Westport, 1994), 38. 105. Sidney Donnell, Feminizing the Enemy (Lewisburg, 2003), 26. 106. Roche, The Culture of Clothing, 86– 117. 107. Chandra Mukerji, Territorial Ambitions and the Gardens of Versailles (Cambridge, 1997), 101. 108. See e.g. “Schreiben aus Paris den 26. Jun.,” Augspurgische Ordinari Postzeitung 161 (6 July 1784), 3. 109. “House of Lords, 11 April [1827],” in: Thomas Curson Hansard, ed., The Parliamentary Debates (London, 1828), 17:387. 110. On military fashion and dandyism, see Philip Hoare, “I love a Man in Uniform: The Dandy Esprit de Corps,” Fashion Theory 9.3 (2005), 263– 82; Bernard James, Roger Beaumont, “The Law of Military Plumage,” Transition 39 (October 1971), 24– 27; Alison Matthews David, “Decorated Men: Fashioning the French Soldier, 1852– 1914,” Fashion Theory 7.1 (2003), 23– 37. 111. “Valentin Streffleur, “Unsere Armee, wie sie gegenwärtig ist,” Streffleurs militärische Zeitschrift 4.2 (Vienna, 1863), 65. 112. “Æsthetics of Dress: Military Costume,” Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine 59.363 ( January 1846), 114. 113. Geoffrey Treasure, The Making of Modern Europe, 1648– 1780 (London, 2003 [1985]), 213. 114. Daniel Purdy, “Sculptured Soldiers and the Beauty of Discipline,” in: Henn, Pausch, eds., Body Dialectics in the Age of Goethe (Amsterdam, 2003), 27. 115. Purdy, “Sculptured Soldiers and the Beauty of Discipline,” 27. 116. Jules Barbey d’Aurevilly, Du Dandyisme et de George Brummell (Paris, 1844), published in English as Of Dandyism and of George Brummell (New York, 1988); Carol Franzero, The Life and Times of Beau Brummell (London, 1958); Hubert Cole, Beau Brummell (London, 1977); Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Dandy (London, 2005). Brummell’s papers have also been published, see Melville Lewis, ed., Beau Brummell: His Life and Letters (New York, 1925). 117. See Hilary Whelan, Fashion Discourse in Baudelaire’s “Le Peintre de la vie moderne” and Mallarmé’s “La dernière mode” (New York, 1999); Bernard Howells, Baudelaire: Individualism, Dandyism and the Philosophy of History 244 Notes
(Oxford, 1996); Ernest Ranaud, Baudelaire et la religion du Dandysme (Paris, 1918); Philip Hadlock, “The Other Other: Baudelaire, Melancholia and the Dandy,” Nineteenth- Century French Studies 30 (2001); Lynette Black, “Baudelaire as Dandy: Artifice and the Search for Beauty,” Nineteenth- Century French Studies 17.1– 2 ( 1988– 89), 186– 95. 118. Susanne Schmid, “Byron and Wilde: The Dandy and the Public Sphere,” in: Uwe Bökeret et al., The Importance of Reinventing Oscar (Amsterdam, 2002), 81– 89; Talia Schaffer, “Fashioning Aestheticism by Aestheticizing Fashion: Wilde, Beerbohm and the Male Aesthetes’ Sartorial Codes,” Victorian Literature and Culture 28 (2000), 39– 54; Edoard Roditi, Oscar Wilde: Dichter und Dandy (Munich, 1947); Eike Schönfeld, Der deformierte Dandy (Frankfurt, 1986); Alfred Recoulley, Oscar Wilde, The Dandy- Artist: A Study of Dandyism in the Works of Oscar Wilde (Chapel Hill, 1968); Sam Driver, “The Dandy in Pushkin,” Slavic and East European Journal 29.3 (Autumn 1985), 243– 57; Sebastian Neumeister, Der Dichter als Dandy: Kafka, Baudelaire, Thomas Bernhard (Munich, 1973). 119. Simone François, Le dandysme et Marcel Proust (Brussels, 1956). 120. Maureen O’Conner, “Edna O’Brien, Irish Dandy,” Irish Studies Review 13.4 (2005), 469– 77; Daniel Whitaker, “La quimera of Emilia Pardo Bazan,” Hispania 70.4 (December 1987), 746– 51; Vittorio Martinelli, La guerra di D’Annunzio: da poeta e dandy a eroe di guerra e “comandante” (Udine, 2001); Susanna Rossbach, Des Dandys Wort als Waffe (Tübingen, 2002); August Sarnitz, Adolf Loos, 1870– 1933: Architekt Kulturkritiker, Dandy (Cologne, 2003); Robert Pynsent, “A Czech Dandy: An Introduction to Arthur Breisky,” Slavonic and East European Review 51.125 (October 1973), 517– 23; Joseph Remenyi, “Dezso Kosztolanyi, Hungarian Homo Aestheticus,” American Slavic and East European Review 5.1/2 (May 1946), 188– 203. 121. Marie- Christine Natta, La grandeur sans convictions: essai sur le dandysme (Paris, 1991); Ellen Moers, The Dandy (New York, 1960); George Walden, Who is a Dandy? (London, 2002); Patrik Favardin, Laurent Boueiere, Le dandysme (Lyon, 1988); Roger Kempf, Sur le dandyisme (Paris, 1971). 122. On dandyism in England, see Peter McNeil, “Macaroni Masculiniites,” Fashion Theory 4.4 (2000), 373– 403; Peter McNeil, “‘That Doubtful Gender’: Macaroni Dress and Male Sexualities,” Fashion Theory 3.4 (1999), 411– 47; on dandyism in France, see John Prevost, Le Dandysme en France (Paris, 1957); Remy Saisselin, “Dandyism and Honnêteté,” The French Review 29.6 (May 1956), 457– 60; on dandyism in Russia, see Olga Vainshtein, “Russian Dandyism,” in: Barbara Evans Clements et al., eds., Russian Masculinities in History and Culture (London, 2001), 51– 75; Tomi Huttunen, “Understanding Explosion: The Case of the Russian Dandy,” Slavica Helsingiensia 35 (2008), 68– 76; on Dandyism in the Habsburg lands, see Mark Anderson, Kafka’s Clothes: Ornament and Aestheticism in the Habsburg Fin de Siècle (Oxford, 1992); Michael Burri, “Lieutenant Burda and the Combative Ethos of the ‘Aristocrat’ in fin- de- siècle Vienna,” German Studies Review 18.1 (February 1995), 9– 27. 123. I took the liberty of correcting apostrophic “their’s” and “burthens” sic. “Letter from a Roué” in: The London Magazine 13.3 (April 1821), 420. 124. John Blunt Freeman, Fashion, and Other Poems (London, 1825), 13. 125. Hippolyte Rigault, review of three books, Journal des débates (10 June 1858); in Œuvres completes de H Rigault (Paris, 1858), 4:481. Notes 245
126. Jules Barbey d’Aureville, Du dandyisme et de George Brummell (Paris, 1986), 105; cited from Charles Bernheimer, “The Politics of Aversion in Theory,” in: Thaïs Morgan, ed., Men Writing the Feminine (Albany, 1994), 175. 127. Leora Auslander, Taste and Power (Berkeley, 1996), 248. 128. “Damen- Toilette,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 21 (August 1806), 534. 129. August Caron, Toilette des dames, ou encyclopédie de la beauté (Paris, 1805– 1806). 130. “Damen- Toilette,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 21 (August 1806), 529. 131. Juan Sempere y Guarinos, Ensayo de una biblioteca española de lose mejores escritores del reinado de Carols III (Madrid, 1969 [ 1785– 89]), 4:185. 132. From the summary in Kitts, The Debate on the Nature, Role and Influence of Women, 118– 19. 133. “Ueber Moden,” Allgemeine Moden- Zeitung 1 (1 October 1806), 1.
2 The Tyranny of Queen Fashion
1. “Der Ehrenhold,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden ( January 1788), 5. 2. John Blunt Freeman, Fashion, and Other Poems (London, 1835), 8. 3. K.F. Kretschmann, “Geschwind, eh sich’s ändert!” Deutsches Museum 2 (1779), 311. 4. William Thackeray, Vanity Fair (London, 1994 [London, 1828]), 356. 5. František Kopácˇ, “Damská modá ma mužove,” Gentleman: revue moderního muže 2.10 (1925), 254. 6. Kopácˇ, “Damská modá ma mužove,” 255. 7. Menon, Evil by Design, 182– 83. 8. Isaac Robert Cruikshank, “The English Ladies Dandy Toy” (9 December 1818). 9. Ivan Krylov, “The Milliner’s Shop,” in: Laurence Senelick, Russian Satiric Comedy (New York, 1983), 31, 36– 37, 64. 10. Christine Ruane, The Empire’s New Clothes: A History of the Russian Fashion Industry, 1700– 1917 (New Haven, 2009), 132– 33; Richard Stites, Serfdom, Society, and the Arts in Imperial Russia: The Pleasure and the Power (New Haven, 2005), 210. 11. Sholto and Reuben Percy, “Reforming a Wife,” Percy Anecdotes (New York, 1847 [London, 1822]), 1:302– 3. 12. “The Domestic Reformer,” Punch 26.660 (4 March 1854), Reproduced with permission of Punch Ltd., www.punch.co.uk. 13. “The Domestic Reformer; or, How Mr. Paterfamilias Made Home Happy,” Punch 26.652, 656, 659 ( 1854– 5), 81– 82. 14. “The Domestic Reformer,” Punch 26.660 (4 March 1855), 91. 15. See Ulrich Lehmann, Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity (Boston, 2000), 59– 63. 16. “Letter to Madame de Flamarens.” The full poem is available at Oeuvres Complètes de Voltaire (Paris, 1868), 2:771. 17. Clemente Boadi, Poemetto intitolato la Moda con l’aggiunta di un discorso acca- demico (Florence, 1777), 16. 18. Jakob Falk, “Ode, an die Mode,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 12 ( January 1797), 3. 19. Ignacy Krasicki, “Swia˛ty nudów,” in: Dzieła Poetyckie Ignacego Krasickiego (Warsaw, 1803), 3:434. 246 Notes
20. Jacques Nicolas Paillot de Montabert, Traité complet de la Painture (Paris, 1829) 8:369. 21. Charles Colton, Lacon: Or, Many things in Few Words: Addressed to Those who Think (London, 1837), 230. 22. František Jaromír Rubeš, “Moda,” in: Vybrané práce (Prague, 1915), 123; the poem originally appeared in Deklamovánky a písneˇ 4 (1839). 23. Richard Owen Cambridge, “Letter to Mr. Fitz- Adam of 13 December 1753,” in: Lionel Thomas Berguer, ed., The British Essayists (London, 1823), 26:275. 24. “Iets over Huisselijke Opvoeding: Een Woord aan mijne Landgenooten,” Algemene konst- en letterbode 2.36 (30 August 1822), 150. 25. Marguerite Blessington, “The Confessions of an Elderly Lady,” in: The Works of Lady Blessington (Philadelphia, 1838), 2:6. 26. Antonín Fährichs, “Bohyneˇ Moda,” Cˇeska wcˇela 38 (12 May 1846), 152. 27. Edwin Paxton Hood, The Age and its Architects, Ten Chapters on the English People (London, 1850), 386. 28. Hannah More, “Strictures on the Modern System of Female Education,” in: Works of Hannah More (New York, 1852 [Bristol, 1799]), 1:389, 392. 29. Louis Larcher, La Femme, judgée par les grands écrivans des deux sexes (Paris, 1854), 95. 30. Larcher, La Femme, 92. 31. John Doran, Habits and Men: With Remnants of Record Touching the Makers of Both (London, 1855), 121. 32. George Augustus Sala, Gaslight and Daylight, with Some London Scenes They Shine Upon (London, 1859), 360. 33. Robert Lloyd, “Two Odes,” Poems (London, 1762), 103. 34. “To a Lady Dressed with a Very Large Bouquet,” Gentleman’s Magazine 62.1, part 1 ( January 1793), 71. 35. “L’Amour à la mode,” Journal des dames et des modes 50 (7 December 1801), 288. 36. Denis Diderot, ed., Encyclopédie, ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers (Lausanne, 1780), 29:458. 37. “Ueber die Mode,” Allgemeine Moden- Zeitung (4 November 1806), 34. 38. Editor’s note, Journal des Luxus und der Moden 30 (November 1815), 692. 39. Vicesimus Knox, “On the Influence of Fashion, essay 76” in: The Works of Vicesimus Knox (London, 1824), 1:370. 40. Joel Pinney, An Exposure of the Causes of the Present Deteriorated Course of Health, and Diminished Duration of Human Life (London, 1830), 222. 41. Cancan eines deutschen Edelmanns (Leipzig, 1842), 1:347. 42. Nikolai Zherebtsov, Essai sur l’histoire de la civilization en Russie (Paris, 1853), 1:204. 43. “M.” “Cˇinský a arabský salon v Praze,” Lumír: Belletristický týdenník 3.28 (14 July 1853), 664. 44. Joseph de Serna, El Bufón de la Corte (Barcelona, 1775 [Madrid, 1767]), 138– 39. 45. de Serna, El Bufón de la Corte, 139. 46. Caroline Pichler, “Die bauchsigen Ärmel,” Zerstreute Blätter aus meinem Schreibtische (Vienna, 1936), 18. 47. “An die Mode,” from Heinrich Adami, “Schneiderlieder,” Der Spiegel für Kunst, Eleganz und Mode 3.11 (6 February, 1830), 81. 48. Edward Bradley [as Cuthbert Bede], “The Tyrant Fashion and Alamode his Wife,” in: The Shilling Book of Beauty (London, 1858), 53. Notes 247
49. Gilles Lipovetsky, The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy (Princeton, 1994); L’empire de l’éphémère (Paris, 1991). 50. Philip Skelton, “A Dream in the year 1770,” The Complete Works of the Late Reverend Philip Skelton, Rector of Fintona (London, 1824), 5:384, 386. 51. Aikin- Barbauld, “Fashion: A Vision,” Monthly Magazine and British Register 3 (1797), 255. Attribution from Lucy Aiken, ed., The Works of Anna Lætitia Barbauld (New York, 1826), 2: 313– 14. 52. Aikin- Barbauld, “Fashion: A Vision,” 225, 226. 53. Reed Benhamou, “Fashion in the Mercure: From Human Foible to Female Failing,” Eighteenth-Century Studies 31.1 (1997), 29, 35. 54. Benhamou, “Fashion in the Mercure,” 34– 35. 55. “The Reveur,” Gentleman’s Magazine 8 (April 1738), 192– 93. 56. “d,” “Bittschrift an die Mode, überreicht von euer Gesellschaft bedränkter Männer,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden und der Moden 1 (October 1786), 348– 49. 57. Petition printed in the Birmingham Gazette, cited from Marilyn Morris, The British Monarchy and the French Revolution (New Haven, 1998), 151. 58. British authors considered male shoelaces effeminate; the French police believed them a self- selected symbol of pederasts. See Beverly Lemire, The Business of Everyday Life (Manchester, 2005), 128. 59. Cornelius von Ayrenhoff, “Die Warnung des Schicksals, oder das Reich der Mode. Ein Allegorisches Lustspiel in Drei Aufzügen” (Wien und Leipzig, 1781), as summarized in Realzeitung, oder Beyträge und Anzeigen von Gelehrten und Kunstsachen (1782) 199– 201. 60. Vicesimus Knox, “On the Influence of Fashion, essay 76,” in: The Works of Vicesimus Knox (London, 1824), 1:374. 61. Vicesimus Knox, “Classical Learning Vindicated, essay 3,” in: Works of Vicesimus Knox, 1:15. 62. “Sur la Mode, au Rédacteur du Publiciste,” Mélanges de littérature (Paris, 1803), 3:202. 63. “1847, Lettre Première – 10 January 1847,” Émile de Girardin, Le vicompte de Launay: Lettres parisiennes (Paris, 1863), 4:193. 64. Mary d’Auberville (?), Moniteur de la Mode, no. 4 (August 1875); cited from Jean- Pierre Lecercle, Mallarmé et la Mode (Paris, 1989), 133. 65. Charles Edwards Lester, “Letter 10” in: The Artist, The Merchant and the Statesmen: Of the Age of the Medici and of our own Times (New York, 1845), 2:196. 66. Bede, “The Tyrant Fashion and Alamode his Wife,” 45. 67. Henry Wright, Mental Travels in Imagined Lands (London, 1897), 14, 23. 68. Mary Elizabeth Sherwood, An Epistle to Posterity (New York, 1980 [New York, 1897]), 376. 69. Antonín Fährichs, “Bohyneˇ Moda,” Cˇeska wcˇela 38 (15 June 1846), 155– 56. 70. Bede, “The Tyrant Fashion and Alamode his Wife,” 44. 71. Carole Pateman, The Sexual Contract (Palo Alto, 1988), 78; see also Anne Phillips, Engendering Democracy (Cambridge, 1991), 31– 38. 72. Pateman, The Sexual Contract, 9; Pateman discusses Freud in The Disorder of Women: Democracy, Feminism and Political Theory (Palo Alto, 1989), 42– 43. 73. Jay Fliegelman, Prodigals and Pilgrims: The American Revolution Against Patriarchy (Cambridge, 1982), 187, 199, 200. 74. Lynn Hunt, The Family Romance of the French Revolution (Berkeley, 1992). 248 Notes
75. Madelyn Gutwirth, “Sacred Father, Profane Sons: Lynn Hunt’s French Revolution,” French Historical Studies 19.2 (1995), 261– 76; Françoise Vergès, Monsters and Revolutionaries: Colonial Family Romanice and Métissage (Durham, 1999), esp. 25– 28. 76. Mary Felstiner, “Family Metaphors: the Language of an Independence Revolution,” Comparative Studies in Society and History 25.1 ( January 1983), 154– 80. 77. Clarissa Campbell Orr, Queenship in Europe: 1660– 1815 (Cambridge, 2004); William Monter, The Rise of Female Kings, 1300– 1800 (New Haven, 2011). 78. Jacques Revel, “Marie- Antoinette and Her Fictions,” in Bernadette Fort, ed., Fictions of the French Revolution (Evanston, 1991), 111– 29; Chantal Thomas, The Wicked Queen: Origins of the Myth of Marie- Antoinette (New York, 1999); Dena Goodman, ed., Marie Antoinette: Writings on the Body of the Queen (London, 2001). 79. See James Melton, “Women in Public: Enlightenment Salons,” in The Rise of the Public in Enlightenment Europe (Cambridge, 2001), 197– 225; Steven Kale, “Women, the Public Sphere, and the Persistence of Salons,” French Historical Studies 25.1 (2002), 115– 48; Deborah Hertz, “Salonières and Literary Women in Late Eighteenth- Century Berlin,” New German Critique 14 (Spring 1978), 97– 108; Carol Nash, “Educating New Mothers: Women and the Enlightenment in Russia,” History of Education Quarterly 21.3 (Autumn 1981), 301– 16; Paula Findlen, “Translating the New Science: Women and the Circulation of Knowledge in Enlightenment Italy,” Configurations 3.2 (Spring 1995), 167– 206; Mónica Bolufer Peruga, Isabel Morant Deusa, “On Women’s Reason, Education and Love,” Gender and History 10.2 (1998), 183– 216; Bogucka, Women in Early Modern Polish Society, 161– 76; Susan Dalton, Engendering the Republic of Letters (Montreal, 2003); Dena Goodman, “Enlightenment Salons: The Convergence of Female and Philosophic Ambitions,” Eighteenth- Century Studies 22.3 (Spring 1989), 329– 50. 80. Bloom, Butterworth, Kelley, eds., Jean-Jacques Rousseau: Letter to d’Alembert and writings for the Theater (Dartmouth, 2004), 326. 81. Patrice Higonnet, Goodness Beyond Virtue: Jacobins During the French Revolution (Cambridge, 1998), 90– 96; Katharine Rogers, “The View from England,” in: Samia Spencer, ed., French Women and the Age of Enlightenment (Bloomington, 1984), 357– 68. 82. Margaret Ives, Enlightenment and National Revival, Patterns of Interplay and Paradox in late 18th century Hungary (Ann Arbor, 1979), 185– 87. 83. Peter Clark, British Clubs and Societies: 1580– 1800: The Origins of an Associational World (Oxford, 2000), 201. 84. Goodman, The Republic of Letters, 234.
3 The Sumptuary Mentality
1. Cited from John Martin Vincent, Costume and Conduct in the Laws of Basel, Bern and Zurich (New York, 1935), 69. 2. Liselotte Eisenbart, Kleiderordnungen der deutschen Städte (Göttingen, 1962), 33. 3. Catherine Kovesi Killerby, Sumptuary Law in Italy (Oxford, 2005), 24. Notes 249
4. Jane Burns, Courtly Love Undressed (Philadelphia, 2002), 34– 35. 5. Nancy Kollmann, By Honor Bound: State and Society in Early Modern Russia (Ithaca, 1999), 209. 6. See François Poponnier, Pierrine Mane, Dress in the Middle Ages (New Haven, 1997), 83– 84. 7. Decree of 23 July 1597, reproduced in J. Payne Collier, ed., “Sumptuary Laws,” The Egerton Papers (London, 1811), 250. 8. See Roman Sandgruber, Die Anfänge der Konsumgesellschaft (Munich, 1982), 296– 97. 9. Walter Bruford, Germany in the Eighteenth Century (Cambridge, 1965), 193. 10. Gutiérrez de los Ríos, Noticia General para la. Estimación de las Artes (Madrid, 2006), 205– 10; cited from Ruth Mackay, “Lazy Improvident People”: Myth and Reality in the Writing of Spanish History (Ithaca, 2006), 81– 82. 11. Martin Arnold, Handwerker als theologische Schriftsteller (Göttingen, 1990), 274. 12. Burns, Courtly Love Undressed, 33. 13. Act 46 of James III, cited from James Sibbald, Chronicle of Scottish Poetry (Edinburgh, 1802), 2:29. 14. John Cook, Voyages and Travels through the Russian Empire, Tartary, and part of the Kingdom of Persia (Edinburgh, 1770), 2:281. 15. Joseph Chitty, Lex Mercatoria (London, 1813), 2:305. 16. Jakob Falke, “Der Farbengeschmack und die Mode,” Westerman’s Jahrbuch der illustrierten Deutschen Monatshefte 7 (October 1859– March 1860), 510; see also French sumptuary laws described in Burns, Courtly Love Undressed, 33– 34. 17. For a summary of fifteenth- century prohibitions, see Killerby, Sumptuary Law in Italy, 49. 18. Lien Bich Luu, Immigrants and the Industries of London, 1500– 1700 (Burlington, 2005), 181. 19. Joseph Chitty, Lex Mercatoria (London, 1813), 2:55. 20. Chitty, Lex Mercatoria, 2:276. 21. Michael Batterberry, Ariane Batterberry, Fashion: The Mirror of History (New York, 1982), 88. 22. Maurice Keen, “Heraldry and Hierarchy: Esquires and Gentlemen, in: Jeffry Denton, Orders and Hierarchies in Late Medieval and Renaissance Europe (London, 1999), 95. 23. Cited from Vincent, Costume and Conduct, 68. 24. Frederick Bowser, The African Slave in Colonial Peru, 1524– 1650 (Palo Alto, 1974), 311. 25. François Dupons, Travels in South America (London, 1807) 1:175. 26. Jean Gelman Taylor, The Social World of Batavia (Madison, 1983), 66– 68. 27. See Stewart King, Blue Coat or Powdered Wig (Athens, 2001), 27. 28. Steeve [sic] Buckridge, The Language of Dress: Resistance and Accomodation in Jamaica, 1750– 1890 (Kingston, 2004), 31– 32. 29. Margaret Maynard, Fashioned from Penury: Dress as Cultural Practice in Colonial Australia (Cambridge, 1994), 11– 26; see also James Montgomery, Journal of Voyages and Travels (Boston, 1832 [London, 1861]), 2:256. 30. Donald Quataert, “Clothing Laws, State, and Society in the Ottoman Empire, 1720- 1829,” International Journal of Middle East Studies 29.3 (1997), 406. 250 Notes
31. Raphaela Lewis, Everyday Life in Ottoman Turkey (London, 1971), 105. 32. John Fuller, Narrative of a Tour through some Parts of the Turkish Empire (London, 1829), 77. 33. Matthew Elliot, “Dress Codes in the Ottoman Empire: The Case of the Franks,” in: Faroqi, Neumann, eds., Ottoman Costumes (Istanbul, 2004), 110– 11. 34. The Claes Rålamb Costume Book (Istanbul, manuscript c. 1657), Swedish Royal Library Cod.Rål. 8:o no. 10, see for example
54. Ernesto Ferrero, La Mala Italia (Rome, 1973), 150; A.J.B. Parent- Duchatelet, La Prostitution dans la ville de Paris (Paris, 1857), 2:272. 55. Dufour, Histoire de la Prostitution, 4:214, 228. 56. William Sanger, The History of Prostitution (New York, 1858), 162. 57. Rossiaud, Medieval Prostitution, 64. See also James Davis, Prize Essay on the Laws for the Protection of Women (London, 1854), 153; M.M. Jourdan et al., Recueil Généreal des Anciennes Lois Française depuis l’an 470 jusqu’à la Revolution de 1789 (Paris, 1822– 30), 6:685. 58. Georgina Masson, Courtesans of the Italian Renaissance (London, 1975), 109. 59. Marcus, The Jew in the Medieval World, 154. 60. Esther Benbasa, The Jews of France (Princeton, 1999), 43. 61. Edward Flannery, The Anguish of the Jews (Manhwah, 1999 [1985]), 103. 62. Mark Meyerson, Jews in an Iberian Frontier Kingdom (Leiden, 2004), 75. 63. Raphael Patai, The Jewish Mind (Detroit, 1996), 156. 64. Meyerson, Jews in an Iberian Frontier Kingdom, 84. 65. Jeffrey Richards, Sex, Dissidence and Damnation (London, 1991), 109. 66. Cecil Roth, The History of the Jews of Italy (Philadelphia, 1969), 140. 67. Richards, Sex, Dissidence and Damnation 109. 68. Denise Despres, “The Protean Jew in the Vernon Manuscript,” in: Sheile Delany, Chaucer and the Jews (New York, 2002), 147. 69. Riccardo Calimani, The Ghetto of Venice (New York, 1987 [Milan, 1985]), 12. 70. Richards, Sex, Dissidence and Damnation, 109. 71. Raphael Patai, The Jews of Hungary (Detroit, 1996), 65. 72. Roth, The History of the Jews of Italy, 139, 140. 73. Benbasa, The Jews of France, 42– 43. 74. Theodore Lyman, The Political State of Italy (Boston, 1820), 237. 75. Flannery, The Anguish of the Jews, 103. 76. Liesel Franzheim, Juden in Köln (Cologne, 1984), 97; Debra Higgs Strickland, Saracens, Demons and Jews (Princeton, 2003), 105; Flannery, The Anguish of the Jews, 103. 77. Roth, The History of the Jews of Italy, 387. 78. Philip Daileader, True Citizens: Violence, Memory and Identity in Medieval Perpignan (London, 2000), 145. 79. Norman Golb, The Jews of Normandy (Cambridge, 1998), 534, 511. 80. Roth, The History of the Jews of Italy, 161. 81. Calimani, The Ghetto of Venice, 11. 82. Daileader, True Citizens, 145. 83. Léon Poliakov, The History of Anti- Semitism (Philadelphia, 1975 [1955]), 67. 84. Flannery, The Anguish of the Jews, 128. 85. Bolla, Rottler, eds., Szemelvények az 1526 elo˝tti magyar történelem forrásaiból (Budapest, 1993), 1:116– 21. 86. Erna Paris, The End of Days: A Story of Tolerance, Tyranny and the Expulsion of the Jews from Spain (Amherst, 1995), 92. 87. Denis Mack Smith, A History of Sicily – Medieval Sicily, 800– 1713 (London, 1968), 166. 88. John Arnold, Inquisition and Power (Philadelphia, 2001), 66; James Given, Inquisition and Medieval Society (Ithaca, 1997), 69, 70, 75. 89. Anna Splendiani, José Bohórquez, Emma de Salazar, Cincuenta años de inqui- sición en el Tribunal de Cartagena de Indias, 1610– 1660 (Cali, 1997) 1:54, 209. 252 Notes
90. Joseph Pérez, The Spanish Inquisition (New Haven, 2004), 163; William Rule, History of the Inquisition (London, 1868), 318. 91. Leslie Shaw, Trade, Inquisition, and the English Nation in Portugal (Manchester, 1989), 42. 92. Henry Napier, Florentine History (London, 1847), 5:237. 93. Lucien Wolf, ed., Jews in the Canary Islands (Toronto, 2001 [London, 1926]), 50, 60, 78, 102, 181. 94. Geraldo Pieroni, “Outcasts from the Kingdom,” in: Bernardini, Fiering, eds., The Jews and the Expansion of Europe to the West (Oxford, 2001), 247– 48; Saul Friedman, Jews and the American Slave Trade (New Brunswick, 1999), 52, 54. 95. William Bennet Stevenson, A Historical and Descriptive Narrative of Twenty Years’ Residence in South America (London, 1825), 1:275. 96. Norman Stillman, “The Pact of ’Umar,” Jews of Arab Lands (Philadelphia, 1979), 157– 58; Gustave von Grunebaum, Medieval Islam: A Study of Cultural Orientation (Chicago, 1954), 182; Hamilton Gibb, Harold Bowen, Islamic Society and the West (Oxford, 1957), 2:208. 97. Ali Anooshahr, Ghazi Sultans and the Frontiers of Islam (London, 2008), 132. 98. Smith, A History of Sicily, 6. 99. Madeline Zilfi, “Whose Laws? Gendering the Ottoman Sumptuary Regime,” in: Faroqi, Neumann, eds., Ottoman Costumes, 134. 100. Elliot, “Dress Codes in the Ottoman Empire,” 111. 101. Yedida Kalfon Stillman, Norman Stillman, Arab Dress (Leiden, 2003), 138. 102. Phillipus van Limborch, Cui subjungitur Liber sententiarum inquisitionis tho- losanae (Amsterdam, 1692), 368– 69. Courtesy of the Dorot Jewish Division, The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations. 103. Giacomo Casanova, History of My Life (London, 1967), 2:70. 104. Dictionnaire universel François et Latin (Paris, 1732), 5:482; Gottlieb Pfeffel, Prosaische Versuche (1813), 4:207; Stillman, Stillman, Arab Dress, 138. 105. Robert Ross, Clothing: A Global History (London, 2008), 112; Elliot, “Dress Codes in the Ottoman Empire,” 110. 106. Constance Evelyn Padwick, Call to Istanbul (London, 1958), 50. 107. Fuller, Narrative of a Tour through some Parts of the Turkish Empire, 399. 108. Siraiya Faroqhi, The Ottoman Empire and the World Around It (London, 2006), 2. 109. Ermine Ekin Tus¸alp, Treating Outlaws and Registering Miscreants in Early Modern Ottoman Society (Istanbul, 2005), 89. 110. See Helga Anetshofer, Hakan Karateke, Traktat über die Derwischmützen (Leiden, Boston, Cologne, 2001), 50– 54, 8, 39. 111. Friedrich von Tietz, St. Petersburg, Constantinople, and Napoli di Romania in 1833 and 1834 (New York, 1836), 114. 112. William Eton, A Survey of the Turkish Empire (London, 1801 [London, 1798]), 33. 113. Poliakov, The History of Anti- Semitism, 67. 114. Pérez, The Spanish Inquisition, 224, 163. 115. Calimani, The Ghetto of Venice, 11. 116. Max v. Boehn, Die Mode: Menschen und Moden im 18. Jahrhundert (Munich, 1963), 196. 117. Michel de Montaigne, “Chapter XLIII: Of Sumptuary Laws,” The Works of Michael de Montaigne (London, 1845), 125; alternatively Roche, The Culture of Clothing, 49. Notes 253
118. Killerby, “Practical Problems in the Enforcement of Italian Sumptuary Law,” 118. 119. Ronald Rainey, “Dressing Down the Dressed- Up,” in: Mosfasani, Musto, eds., Renaissance Society and Culture (New York, 1991), 223. 120. Killerby, “Practical Problems in the Enforcement of Italian Sumptuary Law,” 105, 114; Claire Sponsler, Drama and Resistance (Minneapolis, 1997), 22. 121. Eli Heckscher, Mercantilism (London, 1935 [1931]), 1:173. 122. Madeline Zilfi, “Goods in the Mahalle: Distributional Encounters in Eighteenth- Century Istanbul,” in: Donald Quataert, ed., Consumption Studies and the History of the Ottoman Empire (Albany, 2000), 304. 123. J. Payne Collier, ed., “Sumptuary Laws,” The Egerton Papers (London, 1811), 250. 124. Margaret Rose Jaster, “Breeding Dissoluteness and Disobedience: Clothing Laws as Tudor Colonialist Discourse,” Criticial Survey 13 (2001), 61– 77. 125. Eisenbart, Kleiderordnungen der deutschen Städte, 85. 126. James Lydon, Law and Disorder in Thirteenth- Century Ireland (Dublin, 1997) 89; Hugh Thomas, The English and the Normans (Oxford, 2003), 55. 127. Wilhelm Starost- Vydunas,ˉ Sieben Hundert Jahre Deutsch- Litauischer Beziehungen (Chicago, 1982 [Tilsit, 1932]), 278. 128. Vincent, Costume and Conduct, 69, 70. 129. Ruth Mellinkoff, Outcasts: Signs of Otherness in Northern European Art in the Middle Ages (Berkeley, 1993), 1:10.
4 The Discovery of the Uniform
1. A.Z., “Vorschlag zu einer uniformen Kleidung des schönen Geschlechts,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 4 (December 1790), 636. 2. Valerie Kivelson, Autocracy in the Provinces: the Muscovite Gentry and Political Culture in the Seventeenth Century (Palo Alto, 1996), 3; see also John Armstrong, “Old- Regime Governors,” Comparative Studies in Society and History 14 (1972), 2– 29. 3. Lindsey Hughes, “From Caftans into Corsets,” in: Peter Barta, ed., Gender and Sexuality in Russian Civilization (London, 2001), 17– 32. 4. Evgenii Anisimov, The Reforms of Peter the Great (Armonk, 1993), 34. 5. Isabel de Madariaga, Russia in the Age of Catherine the Great (New Haven, 1981), 254. 6. Xenia Gasirowska, The Image of Peter the Great in Russian Fiction (Madison, 1979), 102– 104. 7. Johann- Georg Korb, Diary of an Austrian Secretary of Legation at the Court of Czar Peter the Great (London, 1968 [1863]), 256. 8. Jean Rousset de Missy, Mémoires du règne de Pierre le Grand, empereur de Russie (Amsterdam, 1740 [1728– 30]) 2:168. 9. The phrase comes from Ivan Neplivev, see Natalia Pushkareva, Women in Russian History from the Tenth to the Twentieth Century (Armonk, 1997), 179. 10. Robert Massie, Peter the Great: His Life and World (New York, 1981), 239. 11. Valentin Rasputin, Siberia, Siberia (Evanston, 1996), 91. 12. Lindsey Hughes, Russia in the Age of Peter the Great (New Haven, 1998), 282– 83. 13. Vasily Kliuchevsky, A Course in Russian History: The Time of Catherine the Great (Armonk, 1997), 19. 254 Notes
14. Missy, Mémoires du règne de Pierre le Grand, 2: 168– 69. 15. Hughes, “From Caftans into Corsets,” 17– 32; Pushkareva, Women in Russian History from the Tenth to the Twentieth Century, 179. 16. Karl Salomo Zachariä, Vierzig Bücher vom Staate (Heidelberg, 1839), 1:124. 17. Marc Raeff, “The Enlightenment in Russia and Russian Thought in the Enlightenment,” in: J.C. Garrard, The Eighteenth Century in Russia (Oxford, 1973), 27. 18. Jon Coulston, “Arms and Armour of the Late Roman Army,” in: David Nicholle, ed., A Companion to Medieval Arms and Armour (Woodbridge, 2002), 7. 19. Alan Forey, The Military Orders from the Twelfth to the Early Fourteenth Century (London, 1992), 177; Friedrich Benninghoven, Der Orden der Schwertbrüder: Fratres Milicie Christi de Livonia (Cologne, 1965), 55. 20. Kay Nielsen, “Hvorfor uniformer?” in: Anne Krag, Dragt og magt (Copenhagen, 2003), 233, 243. 21. François Boucher, 20,000 Years of Fashion (New York, 1987 [1965]), 286. 22. Guy Rowlands, The Dynastic State and the Army under Louis XIV (Cambridge, 2002), 161. 23. John Lynn, Giant of the Grand Siècle (Cambridge, 1997), 235. 24. Mathieu de la Simonne, Alphabet du soldat et vray eclaircissement militaire (Paris, 1632), 110– 11. 25. Lynn, Giant of the Grand Siècle, 174. 26. Lynn, Giant of the Grand Siècle, 174– 75. 27. Lynn, Giant of the Grand Siècle, 170. 28. Roche, The Culture of Clothing, 226; Bouchet, 20,000 Years of Fashion, 286, 330. 29. Elisabeth Hackspiel- Miklosch, “Vorläufer der zivilen Uniformen im 18. Jahrhundert,” in: Hackspiel- Miklosch, Haas, eds., Civilian Uniforms as Symbolic Communication (Munich, 2006), 49. 30. Hackspiel- Miklosch, “Vorläufer der zivilen Uniformen,” 54– 55. 31. Editorial from The Political State of Great Britain 32 (October 1726), 320. 32. John Mollo, Uniforms of the Seven Years War, 1756– 63 (Poole, 1977), 15. 33. Thomas Carlyle, History of Frederick II of Prussia (London, 1858), 1:401– 407. 34. Gisela Krause, Altpreussische Uniformfertigung (Hamburg, 1965), 14. 35. Richard Gawthrop, Pietism and the Making of Eighteenth- Century Prussia (Cambridge, 1993), 249. 36. Carlyle, History of Frederick II of Prussia, 1:419. 37. Carlyle, History of Frederick II of Prussia, 1:421. 38. Gustav Schmoller, “Die russische Kompagnie in Berlin, 1724– 38,” Zeitschrift für preussische Geschichte und Landeskunde 20 (1883), 1– 116, cited from Gawthrop, Pietism and the Making of Eighteenth- Century Prussia, 262, 264; Robert Ergang, The Puritan Führer: Friedrich Wilhelm I, Father of Prussian Militarism (New York, 1941), 168. 39. Mollo, Uniforms of the Seven Years War, 15. Mollo cites “an English commen- tator in a work published in 1759,” perhaps a reprint of New Regulations for the Prussian Infantry (London, 1757). 40. Otto Büsch, Military System and Social Life in Old Regime Prussia, 1713– 1807 (Atlantic Highlands, 1997 [Berlin, 1962]), 15. 41. Hackspiel- Miklosch, “Vorläufer der zivilen Uniformen,” 55. 42. Christopher Duffy, The Army of Frederick the Great (Vancouver, 1974), 96. 43. Duffy, The Army of Frederick the Great, 41. Notes 255
44. David Stone, Fighting for the Fatherland (London, 2006), 63. 45. Louis Snyder, Documents of German History (Westport, 1958), 110. 46. Hargreaves- Mawdsley, A History of Legal Dress in Europe Until the End of the Eighteenth Century, 110. 47. Duffy, The Army of Frederick the Great, 141. 48. Mollo, Uniforms of the Seven Years War, 23. 49. Carol Leonard, Reform and Regicide: The Reign of Peter III of Russia (Bloomington, 1993), 11. 50. Aleksandr Kamenskii, “Catherine the Great,” in: Raleigh, Iskenderov, eds., The Emperors and Empresses of Russia (Armonk, 1996), 174. 51. Richard Wortman, Scenarios of Power: Myth and Ceremony in Russian Monarchy (Princeton, 2006), 87; “Die Deutschen in Russland,” Jahrbücher für slavische Literatur, Kunst und Wissenschaft 4 (1846), 968. 52. Friedrich von Tietz, St. Petersburg, Constantinople, and Napoli di Romania in 1833 and 1834 (New York, 1836), 114. 53. João Resende- Santos, Neorealism, States, and the Modern Mass Army (Cambridge, 2007), 1– 2. 54. “Letter to Marquis Wellesley of 8 August 1809,” in: “Lieut. Colonel Gurwood,” ed., The Services of Field Marshal The Duke of Wellington During his Various Campaigns (London, 1836), 5: 11– 12. 55. Gawthrop, Pietism and the Making of Eighteenth- Century Prussia, 233. 56. Catherine Solaris, Private Anecdotes of Foreign Courts (London, 1827), 42. 57. Robert Bain, Peter III, Emperor of Russia (London, 1902), 152; for illustrations see Tamara Korchounova, Costumes des Tsars, de Pierre le Grand à Nicholas II (Moscow, 1999), 54– 57. 58. Benson Earle Hill, Recollections of an Artillery Officer (London, 1836), 1:45. 59. Richard Wrigley, The Politics of Appearances (London, 2002), esp. 59– 76. 60. Aileen Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution (London, 1988), 67. 61. George Washington, “Letter to the Committee of Conferences, Philadelphia, 23 January 1779,” reprinted in John Fitzgerald, ed., The Writings of George Washington from the Original Manuscript Sources (Washington, 1936), 14:41. 62. Francis Plowden, Historical Review of the State of Ireland (Philadelphia, 1806), 5:48. 63. Oliver Knox, Rebels and Informers (New York, 1997), 90; “Candid Observer,” Biographical Anecdotes of the Founders of the Late Irish Rebellion (London, 1799), 28. 64. Plowden, Historical Review of the State of Ireland, 5:48. 65. Knox, Rebels and Informers, 89. 66. T.B. Howell, A Complete Collection of State Trials and Proceedings for High Treason (London, 1820), 27:318. 67. Wrigley, The Politics of Appearances, 66. 68. Knox, Rebels and Informers, 89. 69. Michael Durey, “The Dublin Society of United Irishmen and the Politics of the Carey– Drennan Dispute, 1792– 1794,” The Historical Journal 37.1 (March 1994), 104. 70. Knox, Rebels and Informers, 89, 90; John Philpot Curan, Speeches of John Philpot Curran (New York, 1811), 1:114. 71. Thomas Bartlett, ed., Revolutionary Dublin, 1795– 1801 (Dublin, 2004), 155. 72. Michael Foucault, Discipline and Punish (Harmondsworth, 1977), 180. 256 Notes
73. Roche, The Culture of Clothing, 239. 74. Roche, The Culture of Clothing, 229, 239. 75. See Michel Foucault, “Governmentality,” in: Buchell, Graham, Miller, eds., The Foucault Effect: Studies in Governmentality (Chicago, 1991), 103. 76. Georges- André Euloge, Histoire de la Police des origins à 1940 (Paris, 1985), 22, 49. 77. Elaine Glovka Spencer, Police and the Social Order in German Cities (Dekalb, 1992), 18, 15. 78. Stanley Palmer, Police and Protest in England and Ireland, 1780– 1850 (Cambridge, 1988), 119, 120. 79. Palmer, Police and Protest in England and Ireland, 119. 80. Palmer, Police and Protest in England and Ireland, 134. 81. Richard Hill, Policing the Colonial Frontier (Wellington, 1986), 110. 82. Palmer, Police and Protest in England and Ireland, 441. 83. Cited from Marcel Le Clère, La Police (Paris, 1972), 13. 84. Emphasis in original, cited from Le Clère, La Police, 13– 14. I translated surveillés as “disciplined” following Foucault’s Surveiller et punir. 85. A.R. Gillis, “Crime and State Surveillance in Nineteenth- Century France,” The American Journal of Sociology 95.2 (September 1989), 307– 41; Clive Emsley, “Policing the Streets of Early Nineteenth- Century Paris,” French History 1.2 (1987), 257– 82. 86. Joseph Hansen, Rheinische Briefe und Akten zur Geschichte der politische Bewegung 1830– 1850 (Osnabrück, 1967 [1919]), 1:75, 1:40. 87. Elaine Glovka Spencer, “ Police– Military Relations in Prussia, 1848– 1914,” Journal of Social History 19.2 (Winter 1985), 308. 88. Palmer, Police and Protest in England and Ireland, 17. 89. Sidney Monas, The Third Section: Police and Society in Russia under Nicholas I (Cambridge, 1961), 69. 90. Eduard Kolbe, Recollections of Russia during Thirty- three Years’ Residence (Edinburgh, 1855), 221, 242– 43; Monas, The Third Section, 26. 91. Robert David, European Universities from the Enlightenment to 1914 (Oxford, 2004), 244. 92. James McClelland, Autocrats and Academics: Education, Culture and Society in Tsarist Russia (Chicago, 1979), 6. 93. Orlando Figes, A People’s Tragedy: A History of the Russian Revolution (New York, 1997), 36. 94. Paola Furretti, A Russian Advocate of Peace: Vasilii Malinovskii (Dordrecht, 1998), 94. 95. Jens Ljunggren, “Nation- Building and Manliness,” Scandinavian Journal of History 21.2 (1996), 106. 96. Frederick Beiser, Schiller as Philosopher (Oxford, 2005), 14. 97. Phillis Cunnington, Catherine Lucas, Occupational Costume in England from the Eleventh Century to 1914 (London, 1976), 174. 98. Christopher Browne, Getting the Message: The Story of the British Post Office (London, 1993), 86. 99. Politisches Journal, nebst Anzeige von Gelehrten und andern Sachen 1.3 (March 1802), 246. 100. Günther Heinrich von Berg, Handbuch des teutschen Policeyrechts (Hanover, 1803), 3:62. Notes 257
101. Edmund Spencer, Sketches of Germany and the Germans, with a Glance at Poland, Hungary and Switzerland (London, 1836), 1:172. 102. Joseph Roth, “Die Büste des Kaisers,” in: Hermann Keste, ed., Joseph Roth, Werke (Amsterdam, 1976), 3:180 also 3:173. Thanks to Richard Millington for this reference. 103. Francis Plowden, An Historical Review of the State of Ireland from the Invasion of that Country under Henry II (Philadelphia, 1806), 4:44. 104. Felix Etienne de Jouy, L’hermite de Londres (Paris, 1821), 2:300. 105. “The Streets of Dublin,” Irish Quarterly Review 2 (1852), 529– 30. 106. “On the National Utility of Yacht Clubs, no. II,” The Sporting Magazine 7.39 ( July 1833), 247– 48. 107. Mercier, “Ueber das den Mitgliedern des französischen National- Instituts bestimmte Costume,” Minerva (October 1800), 360, 361. 108. “B– r,” “Uniform der Mitglieder der Königliche Akademie der Wissenschaften in Bayern,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 22 (October 1807), 657– 62. 109. “Dr. Z** in Br**” [as Zwierlein], “Vorschlag zu einer allgemeinen Baad- Uniforme für Damen,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 2 ( July 1788), 272. 110. Zwierlein, “Vorschlag zu einer allgemeinen Baad- Uniforme für Damen,” 273, 272. 111. “Allgemeine Bad- Uniforme für Damen,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 6 (April 1792), 206– 08. 112. Heinrich Ludwig Christian Böttger, “Vorschlag einer Uniform für Reisende zu Fuß,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 15 (May 1800), 219– 20. 113. R.v.M., “Aufforderung und Vorschlag zu einer neuen Reitskleidung für Damen,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 12 ( July 1797), 363– 66. 114. “Nachschrift der Herausgeber,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 12 ( July 1797) 368. 115. Samuel Johnson (as “Tom Toy”), “The Various Uses of the Bracelet,” The Idler 39 (13 January 1759), reprinted in The Works of Samuel Johnson (Oxford, 1825), 4:264. 116. Johnson, “The Various Uses of the Bracelet,” 265– 66. 117. A.Z., “Vorschlag,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden (December 1790), 636– 37. 118. C. von C., “Antwort an den Herrn A– Z,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 4 (December 1790), 641. 119. Added comment to A.Z., “Vorschlag zu einer uniformen Kleidung des schönen Geschlechts,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 4 (December 1790), 636. 120. “***** aus Frankfurt an der Oder,” “Wohlgemeinter Vorschlag statt einer allgemeinen deutschen Nationaltracht eine Kleidung für bejahrte Personen einzuführen,” Allgemeine deutsche Frauenzeitung 22 (6 March 1816), 88. 121. “Wohlgemeinter Vorschlag,” Allgemeine deutsche Frauenzeitung (1816), 88. 122. “Ordinance Office, June 11, 1811,” Royal Military Chronicle, or, the British Officer’s Monthly Register and Mentor 2 ( July 1811), 294– 95.
5 Absolutist National Uniforms
1. Justus Möser, “Die Vortheile einer allgemeinen Landesuniform, declamirt von einem Bürger,” Sämmtliche Werke / Patriotische Phantasien (Berlin, 1842– 43), 71. 2. “Modenbericht aus Berlin,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 14 (August 1799), 411– 13. 258 Notes
3. “Berechtigung über die Tracht der Magdeburger,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 14 (November 1799), 600. 4. Möser’s collected works are available as B.R. Abecken, ed., Justus Möser, Sämmtliche Werke / Patriotische Phantasien (Berlin, 1842– 43), hereafter Phantasien; and as Ludwig Schirmeyer, ed., Justus Mösers Sämmtliche Werke (Hamburg, 1943– 45), hereafter Sämmtliche Werke. 5. Michael Steinberg, Austria as Theater and Ideology (Ithaca, 2000 [1999]), 93. 6. Justus Möser, “Antwort auf verschiedene Vorschläge wegen einer Kleiderordnung,” Phantasien, 231. 7. Möser, “Antwort auf verschiedene Vorschläge,” 231, 233. 8. Justus Möser, “Die Vortheile einer allgemeinen Landesuniform, declamirt von einem Bürger,” Phantasien, 64; see also Purdy, The Tyranny of Elegance, 58. 9. Möser, “Die Vortheile einer allgemeinen Landesuniform,” 67– 68. 10. Purdy, The Tyranny of Elegance, 182. 11. Möser, “Die Vortheile einer allgemeinen Landesuniform,” 69– 70; see also Purdy, The Tyranny of Elegance, 274. 12. Möser, “Die Vortheile einer allgemeinen Landesuniform,” 72. 13. Anderson, Imagined Communities, 6. 14. Möser, “Die Vortheile einer allgemeinen Landesuniform,” 67. 15. See Franco Venturi, The End of the Old Regime in Europe (Princeton, 1989 [Turin, 1979]), 279– 339; Pierre de Luz, Gustav III – Ett Porträtt (Stockholm, 1949), 103– 107. 16. Ragnar Svanström, Carl Palmstierna, A Short History of Sweden (Oxford, 1937), 254. 17. The original text written either by Gustaf III or his advisor Carl Scheffer; first published in the Dagliget Allehanda Øterfanns (26 October, 1773); cited from Erik Lindorm, Ny svensk Historia Gustaviansk, 1771– 1810 (Stockholm, 1945), 146. Thanks to Katarina Tucker for this translation. 18. Two Hamburg newspapers advertised the competition, whence the report spread to Munich, Berlin and Vienna. See Peter Albrecht, “Die schwedische Nationaltracht Gustav des III. in der deutschsprachigen Publizistik,” Jahrbuch für Volkskunde 15 (1992), 177. 19. Samuel Simon Witte, “An Answer to the Question: Would it be Harmful or Beneficial to Establish a National Uniform?” cited from Daniel Purdy, The Rise of Fashion: A Reader (Minneapolis, 2004), 77. The second and third prizes also opposed a costume; see Allgemeine Literaturzeitung 3.257 (1792), 685– 86. 20. Albrecht, “Die schwedische Nationaltracht Gustav des III,” 181. For Gillberg’s illustrations see the Swedish Krigsarkivet, URL
26. Hargreaves- Mawdsley, A History of Legal Dress in Europe Until the End of the Eighteenth Century, 114. 27. Auguste Geffroy, Gustave III et la cour de France (Paris, 1867), 1:319; Lindorm, Ny svensk Historia, 149. 28. Albrecht, “Die schwedische Nationaltracht Gustav des III,” 182. 29. Lindorm, Ny svensk Historia, 147– 48. 30. Rangström, “A Dress Reform in the Spirit of its Age,” 262. 31. Acerbi, Travels Through Sweden, Finland, Lapland to the North Cape. 1:73. 32. Ernst Moritz Arndt, Reise durch Schweden im Jahre 1804 (Berlin, 1806), 3:184. 33. William Radcliff, A Journey Through Sweden (Dublin, 1790), 88. 34. The quotation is a summary of Gustaf’s decree, see Radcliff, A Journey Through Sweden, 286. 35. Rangström, “A Dress Reform in the Spirit of its Age,” 262, 264. 36. Solaris, Private Anecdotes of Foreign Courts, 1:163. 37. Rangström, “A Dress Reform in the Spirit of its Age,” 261– 62. 38. Albrecht, “Die schwedische Nationaltracht Gustav des III,” 182. 39. Albrecht, “Die schwedische Nationaltracht Gustav des III,” 182. 40. Radcliff, A Journey Through Sweden, 286, 87– 88. 41. Albrecht, “Die schwedische Nationaltracht Gustav des III,” 189. 42. John Carr, A Northern Summer; or Travels round the Baltic, through Denmark, Sweden, Russia, and part of Germany in the year 1804 (London, 1805), 156. 43. Rangström, “A Dress Reform in the Spirit of its Age,” 263. 44. Arnold Barton, “Gustav III of Sweden and the Enlightenment,” Eighteenth- Century Studies 6.1 (Autumn 1972), 17; on Voltaire’s “unqualified approval,” see Rangström, “A Dress Reform in the Spirit of its Age,” 263. 45. Tine Damsholt, Fædrelandskærlighed og borgerdyd (Copenhagen, 2000), 142. 46. Anne Krag, ed., Dragt og magt: Studier af magtsymboler i dragten (Copenhagen, 2003), 199– 200; Damsholt, Fædrelandskærlighed og borgerdyd, 143– 44. 47. Tine Damsholt, “Tarvelighed og borgerdyd,” in: Krag, Drag tog magt, 199– 200. 48. Marie Melchior, “Dress and Fashion in Denmark,” Creative Encounters Working Papers 21 (November 1988), 5. 49. Jerzy Kornacki, “Problematyka zbytku w publicystyce ‘Monitora’ (1765–1785),” Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej 23.4 (1985), 417– 25; Gabriela Majewska, “Sweden’s Form of Government during the Reign of Gustavus III in the Eyes of the Journals of the Polish Enlightenment,” Scandinavian Journal of History 22.4 (1997), 291– 306. 50. Carl Vilhelm Lilliecrona, Fältmarskalken grefve Johan Christopher Toll (Stockholm, 1850), 2:234. Thanks to Gabriela Majewska for this reference. 51. Rangström, “A Dress Reform in the Spirit of its Age,” 263. 52. Albrecht, “Die schwedische Nationaltracht Gustav des III,” 187. 53. Justus Möser, “Nachschrift,” Phantasien, 73– 74. 54. Johann Ferdinand Opitz, Ueber die Verschiedenheit unser Kleidertrachten (Leipzig, 1775), 25. 55. “Tabellanische Rangordnung der Anzugsmode,” Opitz, Ueber die Verschiedenheit unser Kleidertrachten, 62– 63. 56. Opitz, Ueber die Verschiedenheit unser Kleidertrachten, 61, 40. 57. Opitz, Ueber die Verschiedenheit unser Kleidertrachten, 68, 55. 58. Heinrich Keller, Die Nationaltracht, oder fort mit dem Plunder nach Deutschland! Ein Lustspiel in einem Aufzuge (Leipzig, 1783), 3. 260 Notes
59. Keller, Die Nationaltracht, 3. 60. Comments of the character Friederich, see Keller, Die Nationaltracht, 8. 61. Specifically, Schminkenfeld is sent to Strasbourg. Keller, Die Nationaltracht, 50. 62. Keller, Die Nationaltracht, 31, 20. 63. Keller, Die Nationaltracht, 22. 64. Keller, Die Nationaltracht, 44– 45. 65. Kitts, The Debate on the Nature, Role and Influence of Women in Eighteenth- Century Spain, 205, 207– 209. 66. M.O., Discurso sobre el luxo de las señoras y proyecto de un traje nacional (Madrid, 1788), 41, 49; see also Therese Smith, “Fashioning the Enlightenment: The Proposal for a Female National Dress in Eighteenth- Century Spain,” Dieciocho 23.1 (Spring 2000), 80, 85. 67. M.O., Proyecto de un traje nacional, 58– 59; from Smith, “Fashioning the Enlightenment,” 80. 68. Discurso sobre el luxo; from Smith, “Fashioning the Enlightenment,” 79. 69. Smith, “Fashioning the Enlightenment,” 79. 70. Paula Demerson, Maria Francisca de Sales Portocarrero (Madrid, 1975), 149. 71. Kitts, The Debate on the Nature, Role and Influence of Women, 10. 72. Werner Krauss, Das wissenschaftliche Werk, Auflkärung III (Berlin, 1996), 7:743. 73. William Fairhot, Costume in England: A History of Dress from the Earliest Period until the Close of the Eighteenth Century (London, 1860), 316. 74. Justus Möser, “Schrieben eines Frauenzimmers über die Nationalkleidung,” Sämmtliche Werke, 67. 75. Möser, “Schrieben eines Frauenzimmers,” Sämmtliche Werke, 69, 67. 76. Rangström, “A Dress Reform in the Spirit of its Age,” 263. 77. John Brown, The Northern Courts: Containing Original Memoirs of the Sovereigns of Sweden and Denmark (London, 1818), 1:350– 51. 78. Elizabeth Hurlock, The Psychology of Dress (New York, 1929), 7. 79. Stanley Stein, Barbara Stein, Apogee of Empire: Spain and New Spain in the Age of Charles III (Baltimore, 2003), 218. 80. “Proyecto de un trage nacional para las damas, por la señora doña M.O,” in: Manuel Serrano y Sanz, Apuntes para una biblioteca de escritoras españolas desde el año 1401 al 1873 (Madrid, 1903), 1:119. Thanks to Vivian Rodriguez for this translation. 81. Elizabeth Lewis, Women Writers in the Spanish Enlightenment (Burlington, 2004), 13. 82. Kitts, The Debate on the Nature, Role and Influence of Women, 208. 83. Lewis, Women Writers in the Spanish Enlightenment, 13. 84. Stein, Stein, Apogee of Empire, 91. 85. Smith, “Fashioning the Enlightenment,” 80, 81.
6 Democratic National Uniforms
1. Du Costume des fonctionnaires publics [On the Costume of Public Functionaries], Rapport fait par Grégoire, 28 Fructidor, year III (14 September 1795). 2. Du Costume des fonctionnaires publics, cited from Lynn Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution (Berkeley, 1984), 77; “W. von Ch.,” “Was Sitte, was Mode sey, oder, Teutscher Frauen Volkstracht, erfordert für Gesundheit, Notes 261
Wohlstand, Zucht and Schönheit ein wehmüthig ernstes Wort,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 30 ( June 1815), 334. 3. Cited from Werner Schmidt, Journal des Luxus und der Moden (Leipzig, 1969), 1: 72– 84. 4. Karin Wurst, “Fashioning a Nation: Fashion and National Costume in Bertuch’s Journal des Luxus und der Moden,” German Studies Review 28.2 (2005), 372. 5. “Ist eine teutsche Nationalkleidung einzufuehren?” Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1:65, 66, 69. 6. “Ist eine teutsche Nationalkleidung einzufuehren?” Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1:66. 7. “Ist eine teutsche Nationalkleidung einzufuehren?” Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1:66. 8. Friedrich Bertuch, “Comment,” Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1:70. 9. Bertuch, “Comment,” Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1:70. 10. ‘Frederike S,’ “Letter,” Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1:71, 73– 74. 11. “Ist eine teutsche Nationalkleidung einzufuehren?” Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1: 66– 67, 65. 12. Michael Zakim, “Sartorial Ideologies: from Homespun to Ready- Made,” American Historical Review 106.1 (December, 2001), 1567, 1572. 13. Mathew Carey [as Sylvius] “Letter IV,” American Museum (August 1787), 118. 14. Carey, “Letter IV,” 119. 15. Carey, “Letter IV,” 119. 16. Matthew Carey, “Rules for Husbands and Wives,” in: Miscellaneous Essays (Philadelphia, 1830), 434, 433. 17. Carey, “Letter IV,” 119, 120. 18. Philip Mansel, “Monarchy, Uniform and the Rise of the Frac, 1760– 1830,” Past and Present 96 (August, 1982), 103– 32. 19. Louis- Sébastien Mercier, Costumes des Moeurs et de l’esprit François avant la grande revolution (Lyon, Berne, 1791), frontispiece; Caroline Weber, Queen of Fashion: What Marie- Antoinette Wore to the Revolution (New York, 2006), 209– 11. 20. Stephen Kaplan, “Luxury Guilds in Paris in the Eighteenth Century,” Francia 9 (1981), 257– 98. 21. Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 75. 22. James Johnson, “Versailles, Meet Les Halles: Masks, Carnival and the French Revolution,” Representations 73 (Winter 2001), 106. 23. John Moore, A View of the Causes and Progress of the French Revolution (London, 1795), 1:150. 24. Patrice Higonnet, Goodness Beyond Virtue (Cambridge, 1998), 86. 25. Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution, 101. 26. John Lynn, “Toward an Army of Honor: The Moral Evolution of the French Army,” French Historical Studies 16.1 (Spring 1989), 168. 27. Johnson, “Versailles, Meet Les Halles,” 107. 28. Wrigley, The Politics of Appearances. 29. Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 53. 30. On the Sans- culottes, see Richard Wrigley, “The Formation and Currency of a Vestimentary Stereotype,” in: Wendy Parkins, ed., Fashioning the Body Politic (Oxford, 2000). 262 Notes
31. Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution, 77. 32. Bernhard Christoph Faust, Wie der Geschlechtstrieb der Menschen in Ordnung zu bringen und wie die Menschen besser und glücklicher zu machen (Braunschweig, 1791), 47, 52– 53, 67– 127. 33. Bernhard Christoph Faust, Hommage fait à l’Assemblée nationale de quelques idées sur un vêtement uniforme a l’usage des enfants (Strasbourg, 1790; reprinted Paris, 1792); An Essay on a Peculiar, Uniform and National Dress for Children (London, 1792). 34. Article 63, Monthly Review 12 (November 1794), 352; Intelligenzblatt der neue Allgemeine deutsche Bibliothek 22 (Kiel, 1794), 192. 35. James Guillaume, ed., Procès- verbaux du comité d’instruction publique de la convention nationale (Paris, 1894), 66. 36. “Project d’éducation nationale,” in: James Guillaume, ed., Procès-verbaux du comité d’instruction publique de la convention nationale (Paris, 1894 [1792]), 1: 233– 35. 37. Madeleine Delpierre, Dress in France in the Eighteenth Century (London, New Haven, 1997), 124. 38. Faust, Wie der Geschlechtstrieb, 112– 13. 39. Catechism of Health for the use of Schools (London, 1794), 40. 40. Louis Saint- Just, Esprit de la Révolution et de la Constitution de France (Paris, 1961), 289. 41. Louis Saint- Just, “Sixième Fragment,” posthumously published in: Fragments sur les institutions républicaines (Paris, 1800 [1793]), 48, 49– 50; Stanley Loomis, Paris in the Terror (New York, 1986 [1964]), 285. 42. Claude- François- Xavier Mercier, Comment m’habillerais- je? Reflexions politiques et philosophiques sur l’habillement Français (Paris, 1793), 13– 15. 43. Mercier, Comment m’ habilleraie- je? 13, 3, 8, 13– 14. 44. “Séance du 6 Germinal [26 March],” Aux Armes et Aux Arts (Paris, 1794), 258; Claudette Hould, “Les beaux- arts en revolution,” Études française 25.2/3 (1989), 193– 208. 45. Détounelle only identified “LeSueur” by surname, and may have referred to Pierre- Etienne’s brother Jacque- Phillipe, a sculptor. “Séance du 6 Germinal [26 March],” 258; Johnson, “Versailles, Meet Les Halles,” 109; Jennifer Harris, “The Red Cap of Liberty: A Study of Dress Worn by French Revolutionary Parisians, 1789– 94,” Eighteenth-Century Studies 14.3 (Spring 1981), 307. 46. “Séance du 6 Germinal [26 March],” 258. 47. “Considération sur les advantages de changer le costume françoise,” 316– 17. 48. “Considération sur les advantages de changer le costume françoise,” 317. Harris claims that those submitting designs had to be French citizens; see “The Red Cap of Liberty,” 305. 49. “Séance du Club Révolutionnaire des Arts, tenu le 14 Germinal [3 April],” Aux Armes et Aux Arts! 289. 50. “Séance du Club Révolutionnaire des Arts,” 288. 51. “Séance du Club Révolutionnaire des Arts,” 289. 52. Léonard Gallois, Historie des journaux et des journalists de la revolution française (Paris, 1845), 1:355; Buchez, Roux, eds., Histoire parlementaire de la révolution française: ou, Journal des Assemblées Nationales (Paris, 1835) 5:211. 53. Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution, 102. Notes 263
54. Jean- Michel Moreau, Monument du costume physique et morale de la fin du XVIIIe siècle (Neuwied, 1789). 55. Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution, 100, illustration on 101. 56. David Dawd, “The French Revolution and the Painters,” French Historical Studies 1.2 ( July 1959), 137; Warren Roberts, Jacques- Louis David, Revolutionary Artist (Chapel Hill, 1989), 73. 57. Roberts, Jacques- Louis David, Revolutionary Artist, 74. 58. David Dowd, “Art and Theater during the French Revolution,” Art Quarterly 23 (Spring 1960), 3– 21. 59. Étienne- Jean Delécluze, Louis David, son école et son temps (Paris, 1855), 99– 100. 60. Lurent Dubois, Avengers of the New World: The Story of the Haitian Revolution (Cambridge, MA, 2004), 169. 61. Harris, “The Red Cap of Liberty,” 307. 62. Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 77. 63. Harris provides a picture of the Ecole de Mars student uniforms, see “The Red Cap of Liberty,” 299, 300. 64. David Adams, “Fancy Costume and Political Authority in the French Revolution,” in: Adams, Armstrong, eds., Print and Power in France and England (Aldeshot, 2006), 119, Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 76; Delpierre, Dress in France in the Eighteenth Century, 123. 65. Jaques- Louis David, “Représentant du peuple aux Armées,” Projet de costume (1794), engraved by Vivant Denon, Paris, Musée des documents français, Archives nationales (France), Catalogue de l’oeuvre gravé No 226 CCL 263 TIB 324. 66. Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 76. 67. Dale Clifford, “Can the Uniform Make the Citizen? Paris, 1789– 1791,” Eighteenth-Century Studies 34.3 (2001), 365, 374. 68. Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 78. 69. Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 79. 70. Jacques Grasset Saint- Sauveur, Costumes civils actuels de tous le peuples (Paris, 1784– 88), 4 volumes. 71. Grasset Saint- Sauveur, Costumes des représentans du peuple français (Paris, 1796), 6; David Adams, “Fancy Costume and Political Authority,” 123. 72. Saint- Sauveur, Costumes des représentans du people, 5. 73. Adams, “Fancy Costume and Political Authority,” 123. 74. Saint- Sauveur, Costumes des représentans du people, 2. 75. Adams, “Fancy Costume and Political Authority,” 129. 76. Saint- Sauveur, Costumes des représentans du people. The Fondazione Istituto Internazionale di Storia Economica in Prato displays images on their webpage. 77. Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 80. 78. Jacques- Henry Meister, Souvenirs de mon dernier voyage a Paris (Zurich, 1797), 151– 52. 79. “Ode to the Director Merlin” (28 May 1798), in: George Canning et al., Poetry of the Anti- Jacobin (London, 1852), 144. 80. Maria Norris, Life and Times of Mademe de Staël (London, 1853), 200. 81. Wrigley, The Politics of Appearances, 39. 264 Notes
82. Laure Abrantès, Memoirs of Napoleon, His Court, and Family (London, 1836), 2:46, 153. 83. François Furet, The French Revolution: 1770– 1814 (Oxford, 1992 [Paris, 1988]), 244. 84. Friedrich Engels, “Ernst Moritz Arndt,” Telegraph für Deutschland 2 ( January 1841); cited from Karl Marx, Frederick Engels: Collected Works (London, 1975), 2:139. 85. Thomas Nipperdey, Deutsche Geschichte 1800– 1866 (Munich, 1984), 11; avail- able as Germany from Napoleon to Bismarck, 1800– 1866 (Princeton, 1996), 1. 86. Eva Maria Schneider, Herkunft und Verbreitungsformen der „deutschen Nationaltracht der Befreiungskriege“ als Ausdruck politischer Gesinnung (Bonn, 2002); available online at URL
105. Caroline Pichler, “Die bauchsigen Ärmel,” Zerstreute Blätter aus meinem Schreibtisch (Vienna, Leipzig, 1836), 15. 106. Caroline Pichler, “Ueber eine Nationalkleidung für Teutsche Frauen,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 30 (February 1815), 67– 82; in Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1:111. 107. Pichler, “Ueber eine Nationalkleidung,” Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 1:103. 108. Pichler, “Letter of 17 January 1840,” cited from French, German Women as Letter Writers, 107. 109. Pichler, “Ueber eine Nationalkleidung,” in Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 3:104. 110. Pichler, “Ueber eine Nationalkleidung,” in Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 3:113. 111. “…als Teutsche Frauen und Jungfrauen Teutsch und bleibend zu kleiden.” Pichler, “Ueber eine Nationalkleidung,” in Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 3:112. 112. Pichler, “Ueber eine Nationalkleidung,” in Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 3: 106– 109. 113. “W. von Ch.,” “Was Sitte, was Mode sey,” 334. Six months later, the Allgemeine Deutsche Frauen- Zeitung also proposed a “German national dress” defined by a characteristic design: “the fabric and color of this festive German dress can be chosen according to fancy, only the cut should remain unchanged.” “Über deutsche Volkstracht,” Allgemeine Deutsche Frauen-Zeitung 1.4 (13 January 1816), 16. 114. “W. von Ch.,” “Was Sitte, was Mode sey,” 335– 36. 115. Pichler, “Ueber eine Nationalkleidung,” cited from Schmidt, Journal des Luxus, 3:110. 116. Schneider, Herkunft und Verbreitungsformen, 114– 20, 120– 22, 127, and 127– 28. 117. “Teutsche National- Frauentracht, nach zwei verschiedenen Formen,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 30 (March 1815), table 7, figure 1; see also Schneider, Herkunft und Verbreitungsformen, 88– 89. 118. Wurst, “Fashioning a Nation,” 337. 119. Schneider, Herkunft und Verbreitungsformen, 129. 120. Lauren Berlant, “National Brands/National Bodies,” in: Bruce Robbins, ed., The Phantom Public Sphere (Minneapolis, 1993), 173– 209. 121. Joan Landes, Women and the Public Sphere in the Age of the French Revolution (Ithaca, 1988); Isabel Hull, Sexuality, State and Civil Society in Germany, 1700– 1815 (Ithaca, 1996); Nancy Fraser, “Rethinking the Public Sphere,” in Craig Calhoun, ed., Habermas and the Public Sphere (Cambridge, 1992), 109–42; James Melton, “Introduction: What is the Public Sphere?” in: The Rise of the Public in Enlightenment Europe (Cambridge, 2001), 1– 16; on the public/private dichotomy, see Lawrence Klein, “Gender and the Public/Private Distinction in the Eighteenth Century,” Eighteenth- Century Studies 29.1 (1994), 97– 109; Martha Ackelsberg and Mary Lyndon Shanley, “Privacy, Publicity and Power: a Feminist Rethinking of the Public– Private Distinction,” in: Hirschman, Di Stefano, eds., Revisioning the Political (Boulder, 1996), 68– 83. 122. Adrian Hastings, The Construction of Nationhood (Cambridge, 1997), 108– 109. 123. Schneider, Herkunft und Verbreitungsformen, 9. 124. Rogers Brubaker, “The Manichean Myth: Rethinking the Distinction Between ‘Civic’ and ‘Ethnic’ Nationalism,” in: Hanspeter Kriesi et al., eds., Nation and National Identity: The European Experience in Perspective (Zurich, 1999) 55– 71. 266 Notes
125. Henrietta Harrison, The Making of the Republican Citizen: Political Ceremonies and Symbols in China (Oxford, 2000), 191– 92; Verity Wilson, “Dressing for Leadership in China,” in: Burman, Turbin, eds., Material Strategies: Dress and Gender in Historical Perspective (Oxford, 2003), 239– 40.
7 Minimal National Uniforms
1. Robespierre, “Rapport sur les principles de morale politique qui doivent guider la Convention nationale dans l’administration intérieure de la République” (5 February 1794), in: Prosper- Charles Roux, ed., Histoire parle- mentaire de la révolution française (Paris, 1837), 31:270. 2. “Ursprung des Wortes Kokarde,” Magazin für die Literatur des Auslandes 9 (21 January 1835), 36. 3. Maurice O’Connell, “Recruiting Song for the Irish Brigade,” in: The Spirit of the Nation (Dublin, 1845), 259. 4. Jennifer Heuer, “Hats on for the Nation! Women, Servants, Soldiers and the ‘Sign of the French’,” French History 16.1 (2002), 30; Ebenezer Brewer, Wordsworth Dictionary of Phrase and Fable (Ware, 2001), 265. 5. “Cockade,” Chambers Encyclopædia (London, 1862), 3:104. 6. Notes and Queries 71 (1851), 196. 7. “Prato, 22 Settembre,” Gazzetta toscana 39 (1768), 166. 8. Pierre de Kerdu, Travels through Denmark and Sweden (London), 2:175. 9. John Woodward, A Treatise on Heraldry (Edinburgh, 1896), 377. 10. “Ursprung des Wortes Kokarde,” Magazin für die Literatur des Auslandes 9 (21 January 1835), 36. 11. “Letter of 3 June 1783,” The Political Magazine and Parliamentary, Naval, Military, and Literary Journal 5 (August 1783), 124. 12. Simon Schama, Patriots and Liberators: Revolution in the Netherlands (New York, 1977), 63. 13. See N.N., De philanthrope of menschenvriend 91 (28 June 1758), 205. 14. Robert Palmer, The Age of the Democratic Revolution (Princeton, 1969), 326. 15. Joan Derk van der Capellen tot den Pol, Aan het Volk van Nederland (Amsterdam, 1987 [1781]); Nicholaas van Sas, “The Patriot Revolution,” in: Jacob, Mijnhardt, eds., The Dutch Republic in the Eighteenth Century (Ithaca, 1992), 113. 16. Hendrik Willem van Loon The Fall of the Dutch Republic (Boston, 1924), 357; “Foreign Intelligence,” European Magazine and London Review 13 (March 1788), 227. 17. Jacobus Kok, Vaderlandsch woordenboek (Amsterdam, 1791), 15:72; van Loon, The Fall of the Dutch Republic, 359. 18. Schama, Patriots and Liberators, 97, 98. 19. Ann Radcliffe, A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794 through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany (Dublin, 1795), 40; van Loon, Fall of the Dutch Republic, 367. 20. Jacques- Vincent Delacroix, “Of the Constitution of Holland,” in: Review of the Constitutions of the Principal States of Europe and of the United States of America (London, 1792), 2:167. 21. J.P. Curran, “Letter of 1 August 1788,” in: R.A. Davenport, New Elegant Extracts (Chiswick, 1827), 4:319. Notes 267
22. Thomas Bowdler, Letters Written in Holland, in the Months of September and October 1787 (London, 1788), 156. 23. C.W.F. Dumas, “Letter to John Jay of 10 June 1788,” in: Diplomatic Correspondence of the United States of America (Washington, 1837), 3:617. 24. Wrigley, The Politics of Appearances, 98. 25. Camille Desmoulins, Œuvres de Camille Desmoulins (Paris, 1838), 2:22; see also Wrigley, The Politics of Appearances, 99– 100. 26. Hunt, Politics, Culture and Class in the French Revolution, 57; Thomas Carlyle, The French Revolution (Oxford, 1989 [1837]), 1:258– 60. 27. François Pommereul, Campagne du Général Buonaparte en Italie (Paris, 1797), 317. 28. “Letter 33 of 7 June 1791,” John Owen, Travels into Different Parts of Europe in the years 1791 and 1792 (London, 1796), 1:164. 29. Michael Rapport, Nationality and Citizenship in Revolutionary France (Oxford, 2000), 167. 30. August von Kotzebue, Sketch of the Life and Literary Career of Augustus von Kotzebue (London, 1800), 226– 27. 31. Armin Gebhardt, August von Kotzebue (Marburg, 2003), 5– 6. 32. “Corsica, August 27,” New London Magazine 5 (September 1789), 462; Colonel de R****, “Recollections of a Royalist Officer,” The Metropolitan Magazine 38 (September 1843), 76– 77, 78– 79. 33. “Letter from Nismes of 22 March 1792,” in: Briefe von Friedrich Matthisson (Zurch, 1802), 156. 34. Arthur Young, Travels, During the Years 1787, 1788 and 1789 (London, 1792), 145. 35. Donald Sutherland, The Chouans: The Social Origins of Popular Counter- revolution in Upper Brittany (Oxford, 1982), 261; Radcliffe, A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794 through Holland and Germany, 264; François Furet, “Chouannerie,” in: Furet, Ozouf, Goldhammer, eds., A Critical Dictionary of the French Revolution (Cambridge, 1989), 3– 10. 36. Léonard Bourdon, Recueil des actions héroiques et civiques des républicains fran- çaise (Paris, 1793), 11– 12. 37. The Terrific Register: or, Record of Crimes, Judgments, Providences and Calamities (London, 1825), 1:803; Samuel Burgess, Historical Illustrations of the Origin and Progress of the Passions (London, 1825), 2:132; F.A. Cox, “The Wandering Minstrels,” The Baptist Magazine 20 (December 1828), 591. 38. August Kotzebue, “Das Kind der Liebe” (Augsburg, 1791), 3:7:193– 328; cited from contemporary English translation “Lover’s Vows, or the Natural Son” (London, 1805), 67. 39. August Iffland, Die Kokarden (Frankfurt, Leipzig, 1791), 1– 2, 89, 123– 24. 40. Joseph Sansom, Isaac Grey, Travels from Paris through Switzerland and Italy in the years 1801 and 1802 (London, 1808), 188; Desmond Gregory, Napoleon’s Italy (Cranbury, 2001), 26. 41. John Binns, Recollections of the Life of John Binns (Philadelphia, 1854), 65. 42. Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution, 77. 43. Johnson, “Versailles, Meet Les Halles,” 108; Rapport, Nationality and Citizenship in Revolutionary France, 142. 44. Heuer, “Hats on for the Nation!,” 46. 45. Rapport, Nationality and Citizenship in Revolutionary France, 164. 268 Notes
46. Ronald Schechter, “Gothic Thermidor: The Bals des victimes, the Fantastic, and the Production of Historical Knowledge in Post- Terror France,” Representations 61 (Winter 1998), 78– 94. 47. Jean- Marc Devocelle, “La cocarde directoriale,” Annales historiques de la Révolution française 289 (1992), 355– 66. 48. Heuer, “Hats on for the Nation!,” 31– 32. 49. “Diaries and Correspondence of James Harris, First Earl of Malmesbury…,” The Quarterly Review 150 (London, 1845), 435. 50. Heuer, “Hats on for the Nation!,” 38, 44, 50. 51. William Sewell, “Le citoyen/la citoyenne,” in Colin Lucas, ed., The French Revolution and the Creation of Modern Political Culture (Oxford, 1988), 2:105– 23. 52. Emmanuel- Joseph Sieyès, Préliminaire de la constitution (Versailles, 1789), 13– 14; translation Sewell, “Le citoyen/la citoyenne,” 2:107. 53. Sewell, “Le citoyen/la citoyenne,” 2:111. 54. Heuer, “Hats on for the Nation!,” 30, 43. 55. P.A. Garrau, Opinion de P.A. Garrau (de la Gironde) sur le projet de la résolution presenté par Roemers sur le port de la cocarde nationale, year 7, 3, cited from Heuer, “Hats on for the Nation!,” 46. 56. Heuer, “Hats on for the Nation!,” 38. 57. Albert Soboul, The Sans- culottes (Princeton, 1981), 224. 58. Alan Forrest, The Soldiers of the French Revolution (Durham, 2002), 20– 22. 59. “Marquis de Vilette,” Lettres choisies (Montargis, 1790), 19– 20, translation from Phillipe Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century (Princeton, 1994), 204. 60. Albert Soboul, The Parisian Sans- culottes and the French Revolution, 1793– 4 (Oxford, 1964), 226. 61. Alphonse de Lamartine, History of the Girondists (New York, 1847), 1:401. 62. Lamartine, History of the Girondists, 402. 63. Soboul, The Parisian Sans- culottes and the French Revolution, 223– 25. 64. Levy, Applewhite, Johnson, eds., Women in Revolutionary Paris, 1789– 1795 (Urbana, 1980), 162. 65. Crain Brinton, “Revolutionary Symbolism in the Jacobin Clubs,” American Historical Review 32.4 ( July 1927), 740. 66. Karen Offen, European Feminisms, 1700– 1950 (Palo Alto, 2000), 55. 67. Levy, Appelwhite, Johnson, Women in Revolutionary Paris, 138– 39. 68. David Andress, French Revolution and the People (London, 2004), 201; Dominque Godineau, “Masculine and Feminine Political Practice during the French Revolution 1793, Year III,” in: Applewhite, Levy, eds., Women and Politics in the Age of the Democratic Revolution (Ann Arbor, 1993 [1990]), 69; Dailine Gay Levy, Harriet Appelwhite, “Women and Militant Citizenship in Revolutionary Paris,” in: Melzer, Rabine, eds., Rebel Daughters: Women and the French Revolution (Oxford, 1992), 79– 101. 69. Pierre- Joseph- Alexis Roussel, Le château des Tuileries (Paris, 1802), 2:34– 46 trans- lation from Levy, Applewhite, Johnson, Women in Revolutionary Paris, 166. 70. See Albert Soboul, “Un épisode des luttes populaires en septembre 1793,” Annales historiques de la Revolution française 33.1 (1961), 52– 55. 71. Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution, 90. 72. Fredrick Jaher, The Jews and the Nation (Princeton, 2002), 200– 201. Notes 269
73. “Discussion of Women’s Political Clubs— Amar,” in: Lynn Hunt, ed., The French Revolution and Human Rights (Boston, 1996), 135– 38. 74. Levy, Applewhite, Johnson, Women in Revolutionary Paris, 220. In 1800 the French government also forbade women from wearing trousers; Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 20. 75. Soboul, The Parisian Sans- culottes and the French Revolution, 224. 76. Hunt, The French Revolution and Human Rights, 138– 9. 77. Levy, Appelwhite, “Women and Militant Citizenship,” 96. 78. Roberts, Jacques- Louis David, Revolutionary Artist, 74. 79. Harris, “The Red Cap of Liberty,” 310. 80. Schama, Patriots and Liberators, 158. 81. Andrew McGregor, A Military History of Modern Egypt (Westport, 2006), 41; Frederick Quinn, The Sum of all Heresies (Oxford, 2008), 90. 82. Charles Kratisir, The Poles in the United States of America (Philadelphia, 1837), 176. 83. Albert Rocca, War of the French in Spain during the Reign of the Emperor Napoleon (London, 1815), 16. 84. “Letter 25” (no date), John Owen, Travels into Different Parts of Europe in the years 1791 and 1792 (London, 1796), 1:124. 85. Geert Mak, Amsterdam (Cambridge, 2000), 187. 86. Schama, Patriots and Liberators, 188. 87. Emilia Viotti Da Costa, Crowns of Glory, Tears of Blood (Oxford, 1994), 20; “Deposition of Edward Oakes” (18 January 1796), High Court of Admiralty, 45/31 f. 265. Thanks to Steve Behrendt for this latter reference. 88. Wilhelm Oechsli, Quellenbuch zur Schweizergeschichte (Zurich, 1901), 595. 89. Andreas Fahrmeir, “National Colours and National Identity in Early Nineteenth- Century Germany,” in: Laven, Riall, eds., Napoleon’s Legacy (Oxford, 2000), 203. 90. “Persons in the actual service of foreign ministers” were exempted, since they were expected to “wear the cockades of their respective nations.” See Edict XXI (24 February 1798), in: Richard Duppa, A Brief Account of the Subversion of the Papal Government (London, 1799), 197; English translation on 198; “Monthly Register for March 1796,” The Edinburgh Magazine or Literary Miscellany 11 (March 1796), 236. 91. Hargreaves- Mawdsley, A History of Legal Dress in Europe Until the End of the Eighteenth Century, 14. 92. William Gurney, The Trial of James Watson, for High Treason (London, 1817), 1: 220– 21. 93. Joseph Galloway, Brief Commentaries upon such parts of the Revelation and other Prophecies as Immediately Refer to the Present Times (London, 1802), 241– 42; Gustav Adolf Benrath, ed., Johann Heinrich Jung- Stillung, Lebensgeschichte (Darmstadt, 1976), 514; Dubuc de Marentille, “L’identité de Napoléon et de l’antéchrist,” in: L’Ambigu 32.288 (30 March 1811), 675. 94. Erasmo Pistolesi, Guiseppe de Novaes, Vita del sommo pontefice Pio VII (Rome, 1824), 2: 201– 202; Wahrhafte Geschichte der Entführung seiner Heiligkeit des Pabstes Pius VII aus Rom am 6 Julius 1809 (Rome, 1814), 39– 40. 95. “The Pope,” Flowers Political Review and Monthly Register 4 (September 1808), 139. 96. Gregory, Napoleon’s Italy, 87. 270 Notes
97. “Letter from Gibraltar of 31 May 1808,” Charles Vane, ed., Memoirs and Correspondence of Viscount Castlereagh (London, 1951), 7:137. 98. “Letter of 26 November, 1808,” in: Adam Neale, Letters from Portugal and Spain (London, 1809), 222– 23. 99. “Letter of 11 December 1808,” in: Neale, Letters from Portugal and Spain, 245. 100. Königliches- Baierisches Regierungsblatt (1806), 25, cited from Fahrmeir, “National Colours and National Identity,” 201– 202. 101. “Ueber die baierische Nationalkokarde,” National- Chronik der Teutschen 9 (12 March 1806), 67. 102. “Ueber die baierische Nationalkokarde,” 66. 103. F. Gunther Eyck, Loyal Rebels: Andreas Hofer and the Tyrolean Uprising of 1809 (Landham, 1986). 104. Michael Rowe, From Reich to State: The Rhineland in the Revolutionary Age (Cambridge, 2003), 125. 105. Heinrich Friedrich Karl Freiherr Stein, Briefe und amtliche Schriften (Stuttgart, 1960), 2:2:823. 106. Hsi- Huey Liang, The Rise of Modern Police and the European State System (Cambridge, 1992), 51. 107. “Gesetzgebung und Regierung,” National-Zeitung der Deutschen (1823), 697. See also Matthew Levinger, Enlightened Nationalism (Oxford, 2000), 64. 108. “Verordnung wegen Tragung der Hannoverschen National- Kokarde” (21 December 1821), in: Authentische und vollständinge Beschreibung aller Feyerlichkeiten welche in dem Hannoverschen Lande bey der Anwesenheit Seiner Königl. Majestät Georgs des Vierten während dem Monate October 1821 veran- staltet worden sind (Hanover, 1822), 347. 109. Desmond Gregory, Napoleon’s Italy (Cranbury, 2001), 183. 110. See Brian Fitzpatrick, “The Royaume du Midi of 1815,” in: Laven, Riall, eds., Napoleon’s Legacy (Oxford, 2000), 168. 111. “Revolution in Naples,” Niles’ National Register 19/7 (9 September 1820), 24. 112. Richard Church, “Personal Narrative of the Revolution at Palermo,” Monthly Magazine 1.2 (February 1826), 121; “Italy,” Edinburgh Annual Register 13 (1820), 298– 99. 113. Church, “Personal Narrative of the Revolution at Palermo,” 122. 114. See Feliks Wrotnowski, Zbiór pamie˛tników o powstaniu Litwy w r. 1831 (Paris, 1835), 233– 34; Roman Sołtyk, La Pologne: Précis historique, politique et mili- taire de se révolution (Paris, 1833), 1:70; 251– 52. 115. John Rooney, Revolt in the Netherlands: Brussels 1830 (Lawrence, 1982), 31, 39, 43, 44. 116. “An Expostulatory Letter to the Commissioners of Stamps, including a report on Belgium,” in: William Carpenter, ed., Political Letters and Pamphlets (London, 1830), 10. 117. “Essai historique sur la révolution de la Grèce,” Le spectateur belge 20.14 (1823), 272; “Foreign Articles,” Niles’ National Register 8.14 (2 June 1821), 223. 118. Frederick Strong, Greece as a Kingdom (London, 1842), 271. 119. “Rules for the Conduct of Guerilla Bands,” Life and Writings of Joseph Mazzini (London, 1891), 1:373. 120. Several contemporaries compared Mahmut to Russia’s Piotr I. See “Opinions and Character of Turkish Travelers,” Foreign Quarterly Review 15.30 (1835), 457; Abdolonyme Ubicini, La Turquie actuelle (Paris, 1855), 240. Notes 271
121. “Foreign News – Turkey,” Gentleman’s Magazine 96 ( July 1826), 68. 122. Houchang Chehabi, “Dress Codes for Men in Turkey and Iran,” in Atabaki, Züricher, eds., Men of Order (London, 2004), 210. 123. Thomas Trant, Narrative of a Journey Through Greece in 1830 (London, 1830), 372. 124. Robert Walsh, A Residence at Constantinople (London, 1836), 2:277. 125. Stanford Jay Shaw, Ezel Kural Shaw, History of the Ottoman Empire and Modern Turkey (Cambridge, 1977), 44. 126. Klaus Kreiser, “Turban and Türban: ‘Divider Between Belief and Unbelief’,” European Review 13.3 (2005), 451. 127. James De Kay, Sketches of Turkey in 1831 and 1832 (New York, 1833), 237. 128. Julia Pardoe, The City of the Sultan, and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836 (London, 1845), 1:166. 129. Charles Duncan, A Campaign with the Turks in Asia (London, 1855), 1: 52– 53. 130. Roderic Davison, “Turkish Attitudes Concerning Christian– Muslim Equality in the Nineteenth Century,” American Historical Review 59.4 ( July 1954), 845. 131. Charles White, Three Years in Constantinople (London, 1846), 3:188. 132. I˙smail Kara, “Turban and Fez: Ulema as Opposition,” in: Elisabeth Özdalga, ed., Late Ottoman Society (London, 2005), 183. 133. White, Three Years in Constantinople, 3:188. 134. White, Three Years in Constantinople, 3: 186– 87. 135. Adolphus Slade, Turkey, Greece and Malta (London, 1837), 2:478. 136. Quataert, The Ottoman Empire, 1700– 1922, 146– 47; Quataert, “Clothing Laws, State, and Society in the Ottoman Empire, 1720– 1829,” 403. 137. Charles MacFarlane, Turkey and Its Destiny (London, 1850), 1:23. 138. Abdolonyme Ubicini, La Turquie actuelle (Paris, 1855), 241. 139. Louis Delatre, “Istambouldan,” Revue de l’Orient et de L’Algérie 17 (1854), 377. 140. Eyre Evans, The Greek and the Turk (London, 1853), 172. 141. White, Three Years in Constantinople, 3:187. 142. MacFarlane, Turkey and Its Destiny, 1:51. 143. Niyazi Berkes, The Development of Secularism in Turkey (London, 1998 [Montreal, 1964]), 125. 144. Raina Gavrilova, Bulgarian Urban Culture in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries (Selingrove, 1999), 145– 46. 145. Bayard Taylor, Travels in Greece and Russia (New York, 1859), 18, 19. 146. “From Belgrade to Bucharest,” Harper’s Magazine 45 (February 1854), 290. 147. Cˇedomir Vasic´, “From Prince’s Servant to Civil Servant,” in: Hackspiel- Miklosch, Haas, eds., Civilian Uniforms as Symbolic Communication (Munich, 2006), 198. 148. Andrew Paton, Researches on the Danube and the Adriatic (Leipzig, 1861), 1:38. 149. John Lampe, Yugoslavia as History (Cambridge, 2000), 45. 150. Serbs wore round red caps before Mahmut introduced the fez. See Dunja Rihtman- Auguštin, Ethnology, Myth and Politics (Aldershot, 2004), 16; Katica Benc- Boškovic´, Narodna nošnja Konavala ‘Cˇilipi’ (Zagreb, 1986), 11– 12. 151. Paton, Researches on the Danube and the Adriatic, 1:123. 152. Bohuslav Šulek, Šta nameˇravaju Iliri? (Belgrade, 1844), 116– 17. 153. See the photograph in Benjamin Fortna, Imperial Classroom (Oxford, 2000), 138. 272 Notes
154. George Hardoin [as Dick de Lonlay], A travers la Bulgarie (Paris, 1888), 281, 75. 155. Palmira Brummett, Image and Imperialism in the Ottoman Revolutionary Press (Albany, 2000), 57. 156. Sarah Stein, Making Jews Modern (Bloomington, 2004), 185, 210– 11. Thanks to Sacha Davis for this reference. 157. Henry Braislford, Macedonia: Its Races and their Future (London, 1906), 77. 158. Fortna, Imperial Classroom, 130– 32. 159. Zahari Stoyanov, Extracts from Notes on the Bulgarian Uprisings (Sofia, 1976 [ 1883– 85]), 46– 47, 59. 160. W.N. Wedlicott, The Congress of Berlin and After (London, 1938), 260. 161. R.W. Seton- Watson, A History of the Roumanians (Cambridge, 1934), 249. 162. Simeon Radev, Stroiteli na suˇvremenna Buˇlgarija (Sofia, 1973 [1911]), 1:138. Thanks to Stefan Detchev for this reference and translation. 163. Spiridion Gopcˇevic´, Bulgarien und Ostrumelien (Leipzig, 1886), 322. 164. Paul- Henri d’Estournelles, Enquête dans les Balkans (Frankfurt/Main, 2008 [Paris, 1914]), 139; Report of the International Commission (Washington, DC, 1914), 156. 165. Mary Neuberger, The Orient Within (Ithaca, 2004), 92. 166. Neuberger, The Orient Within, 92– 93. 167. Neuberger, The Orient Within, 98. Neuburger cites Petu˘r Marinov, ed. Sbornik Rodinia (Sofia, 1941), 2:19; Smolyan Okru˘zhen Du˘rzhaven Arkhiv ( F- 959K, O- 1, E- 110, L- 66: 1958). 168. Neuberger, The Orient Within, 98, 99, 100. 169. Niyazi Berkes, The Development of Secularism in Turkey (London, 1998 [Montreal, 1964]), 403; Chehabi, “Dress Codes for Men in Turkey and Iran,” 212. 170. Irfan Orga, Portrait of a Turkish Family (New York, 1950), 227, 228. 171. Meyda Yeg˘enog˘lu, Colonial Fantasies: Towards a Feminist Reading of Orientalism (Cambridge, 1998), 133. 172. Murat Aksoy, Bas¸örtüsü- türban: batılılas¸ma- modernles¸me, laiklik ve örtünme (Istanbul, 2005), 113– 18. 173. Mustafa Baydar, Atatürk ve Devrimlerimiz (Istanbul, 1973), 208. 174. Chehabi, “Dress Codes for Men in Turkey and Iran,” 221– 22. 175. Chehabi, “Dress Codes for Men in Turkey and Iran,” 213. 176. Fahri Sakal, “S¸apka I˙nkılâbının sosyal ve Ekonomik Yönü Destekler ve Köstekler,” Turkish Studies 2– 4 (Fall 2007), 1308– 18; Jeremy Seal, A Fez of the Heart: Travels around Turkey in Search of a Hat (London, 1995), 109. 177. I˙skilipli Mehmet Atıf, Frenk Mukallitlig˘i ve S¸apka (Istanbul, 1924). 178. Chehabi, “Dress Codes for Men in Turkey and Iran,” 215. 179. Orga, Portrait of a Turkish Family, 228. 180. Mehdi Mozaffari, Globalization and Civilizations (London, 2002), 119; Michael Thompson, Islam and the West (Lanham, 2003), 164. 181. Eric Broudy, The Book of Looms (New York, 1979), 147; François Crouzet, A History of the European Economy (Charlottesville, 2001), 40; Abbot Usher, A History of Mechanical Inventions (Cambridge, 1929), 281– 84. 182. Stefan Dudink, Karen Hagemann, “Masculinity in Politics and War in the Age of Democratic Revolutions,” in: Dudink, Hagenamm, Tosh, eds., Masculinities in Politics and War (Manchester, 2004), 11. 183. Quataert, The Ottoman Empire, 146. Notes 273
184. Elizabeth Özdalga, The Veiling Issue, Official Secularism and Popular Islam in Modern Turkey (Richmond, 1998); Ana Secor, “The Veil and Urban Space in Istanbul,” Gender, Place and Culture 9.1 (March 2002), 5– 22; Fatma Göçek, “To Veil or Not to Veil? The Contested Location of Gender in Contemporary Turkey,” Interventions 1.4 (2000), 521– 35; Sedif Arat- Koç, “Coming to Terms with Hijab in Canada and Turkey,” in: Alena Heitlinger, ed., Émigré Feminism (Toronto, 1999), 173– 88. 185. Jacqueline Letzter, Intellectual Tacking (Amsterdam, 1998), 119. 186. Chehabi, “Dress Codes for Men in Turkey and Iran,” 224. 187. Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution, 102.
8 Folk Costumes as National Uniforms
1. “Danger and Illiberality of National Distinctions,” Gentleman’s Magazine 16 (October 1786), 845. 2. Edmund Spencer, Sketches of Germany and the Germans (London, 1836), 1:56, 1:314. 3. See “Ethnographical Approaches” in Lou Taylor, The Study of Dress History (Manchester, 2002), 193– 241. 4. Petr Bogatyrev, The Functions of Folk Costume in Moravian Slovakia (The Hague, 1971 [1937]), 33– 34. 5. Eugen Weber, Peasants into Frenchmen: The Modernization of Rural France (Palo Alto, 1976). 6. See Christine Worobec, “‘Galicians into Ukrainians’: Ukrainian Nationalism Penetrates Nineteenth- Century Rural Austrian Galicia,” Peasant Studies 16, no. 3 (Spring 1989), 199– 209; Andrejs Plakans, “Peasants, Intellectuals and Nationalism in the Russian Baltic Provinces, 1820– 90,” Journal of Modern History 46 (1974) 445– 75; Thomas Brown, “Nationalism and the Irish Peasant,” Review of Politics 15.4 (1953), 403– 45. 7. Eric Hobsbawm, Nations and Nationalism since 1870 (Cambridge, 1992), 73. 8. Johann Gottfried von Herder, “Das sonderbare Mittel zur Bildung der Menschen ist Sprache,” in Ideen zur Philosophie der Geschichte der Menschheit, vol. 2, chapter 9, section 2. 9. Johann Gottfried von Herder, “Briefe zur Beförderung der Humanität,” reprinted in Bernhard Suphan, ed., Sämmtliche Werke (Berlin, 1883), 18:308; English translation from Robert Ergang, Herder and the Foundations of German Nationalism (New York, 1931), 206. 10. Ergang, Herder and the Foundations of German Nationalism; Ziegengeist, Grasshof, Lehmann, eds., Johann Gottfried Herder: zur Herder- Rezeption in Ost- und Südsosteuropa (Berlin, 1978); Andraschke, Loos, eds., Ideen und Ideale: Johann Gottfried Herder in Ost und West (Freiburg im Breisgau, 2002); Reinge Otto, ed., Nationen und Kulturen (Würzburg, 1996). 11. English: T. Churchill, Outlines of a Philosophy of the History of Man (London, 1800, 1803); French: Edgar Quinet, Idées sur la philosophie de l’histioire d l’humanité (Paris, 1827– 28). Other translations include Ideas para una filosofía de la historia de la humanidad (Buenos Aires, 1952); Izbrannye sochinenija (Moscow, 1959); Idee per la filosofia della storia dell’umanita (Rome, 1992). 12. Mary Wilton, The Book of Costume (London, 1846), 261– 62. 274 Notes
13. Ion Slavici, “The Girl of the Forest,” in: Jacob Steinberg, ed., Introduction to Rumanian Literature (New York, 1966), 104. 14. Anselme Laugel, Charles Spindler, Costume et coutumes d’Alsace (Nancy, 2008); Emoke Lackovitz, Viseletek, öltözködési kultúra a Bakony és a Balaton- felvidék falvaiban (Veszprém, 2001); Pavla Seitlová, Moravské a slezské kroje (Brno, 2000); Ralf Wendt, Mecklenburgische Volkstrachten (Rostock, 1998); Estelle Canziani, Costumes moeurs et legends de Savoie (Barbentane, 2003); Ingrid Gottfries, Folkdräkter i Skåne under 1900- tlet (Åkarp, 2001); Mariana Raykova, Bulgarian Folk Costumes from Thrace (Sofia, 2003). 15. Wilton, The Book of Costume, 352. 16. Adriaan Loosjes, Beschrijving van de Zaanlandsche Dorpen (Haarlem, 1794); Joost Kloek, Wijnand Mijnhardt, Eighteen Hundred (Assen, 2002), 2:344– 45. 17. Peter McNeil, “The Appearance of Enlightenment: Refashioning the Elites,” in: Martin Fitzpatrick et al., eds., The Enlightenment World (New York, 2004), 392. 18. Le Journal des tailleurs 26.603 (1 September 1855); translation from Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 78. 19. Henry Inglis, The Tyrol, with a Glance at Bavaria (London, 1937), 291. 20. Malcom Chapman, “ ‘Freezing the Frame’: Dress and Ethnicity in Brittany and Gaelic Scotland,” in: Joanne Eichler, ed., Dress and Ethnicity (Oxford, 1995), 27. 21. Kristen Hoganson, “Imagined Communities of Dress,” in: Antionette Burton, ed., After the Imperial Turn (Durham, 2003), 268. 22. Leopold von Buch, Reise durch Norwegen und Lappland (Berlin, 1810), 66– 67; John Black’s translation rendered Bauern as “boors,” I changed this to “peas- ants,” see Travels Through Norway and Sweden (London, 1813), 31. 23. Johann Gottfried Sommer, Taschenbuch zur Verbreitung geographischer Kenntniesse (Prague, 1826), 334. 24. Jehoshaphat Aspin, Cosmorama (London, 1834), 42. 25. Andrew Nielson, The Crimea: Its Towns, Inhabitants and Social Customs (London, 1855), 35. 26. William Beckford, Italy, With Sketches of Spain and Portugal (Philadelphia, 1834), 2:204; Michael Burke Honan, The Personal Adventures of ‘Our Own Correspondent’ in Italy (London, 1852), 1:50– 51. 27. The Costume, Manners and Peculiarities of Different Inhabitants of the Globe (London, 1822). 28. Emer O’Sullivan, “Children’s Literature,” in: Beller, Leersson, eds., Imagology (Amsterdam, 2007), 291. 29. András Vári, “The Functions of Ethnic Stereotypes in Austria and Hungary in the Early Nineteenth Century,” in: Nancy Wingfield, ed., Creating the Other (Providence, 2003), 47. 30. Regina Bendix, Dorothy Noyes, “Moral Integrity in Costumed Identity: Negotiating ‘National Costume’ in Nineteenth- Century Bavaria,” Journal of American Folklore 111.440 (Spring 1998), 107– 224; Richard Wortman, Scenarios of Power (Princeton, 2006), 279; Hugh LeCaine Agnew, “Franz Joseph, the Symbols of Monarchy, and Czech Popular Loyalty” in: Cole, Unowsky, eds., The Limits of Loyalty (London, 2007), 105; Elizabeth Grossegger, Der Kaiser- Huldigungs- Festzug, Wien 1908 (Vienna, 1992); John Ellis, “Reconciling the Celt: British National Identity, Empire, and the 1911 Investiture of the Prince of Wales,” The Journal of British Studies 37.4 (October 1998), 391– 418. Notes 275
31. The standard treatment of folk costumes at national fairs is Martin Wörner, Vergnügung und Belehrung: Volkskultur auf den Weltausttellungen, 1851– 1900 (Münster, 1999), esp. 145– 90; see also Ahmet Ersoy, “A sartorial tribute to late Tanzimat Ottomanism: The Elbise- i Osmaniyye Album,” in: Faroqi, Neumann, eds., Ottoman Costumes: From Textile to Identity (Istanbul, 2004), 253– 70; Cheryl Ganz, The 1933 Chicago World’s Fair (Chicago, 2008), esp. 123– 36. 32. Francine Hirsch, “Getting to Know ‘The Peoples of the USSR’: Ethnographic Exhibits as Soviet Virtual Tourism, 1923– 1934,” Slavic Review 62.4 (Winter 2003), 683– 709. 33. Margaret Marshment, “Gender takes a Holiday,” in: M. Thea Sinclair, ed., Gender, Work and Tourism (London, 1997), 26– 28; Alon Confino, Germany as a Culture of Remembrance (Chapel Hill, 2006), 41. 34. Richard Terry, Poetry and the Making of the English Literary Past (Oxford, 2001), 144. 35. Hugh Trevor- Roper, “The Invention of Tradition: The Highland Tradition of Scotland,” in: Hobsbawm, Ranger, eds., The Invention of Tradition (Cambridge, 1983), 15– 42; see also Hugh Trevor- Roper, The Invention of Scotland (New Haven, 2008); Robin Nicholson, “From Ramsay’s Flora MacDonald to Raeburn’s Mac Nab: the use of Tartan as a Symbol of Identity,” Textile History 36.2 (2005), 146– 67; David McCrone, Understanding Scotland (London, 2001), 133– 35. 36. Jonathan Hearn, Claiming Scotland (Edinburgh, 2000), 179; Celeste Ray, Highland Heritage: Scottish Americans in the American South (Chapel Hill, 2001), 26. 37. Neil Davidson, The Origins of Scottish Nationhood (London, 2000), 138. 38. Regina Bendrix, In Search of Authenticity (Madison, 1997), 104; see also Eva- Marie Tweit, “Folklore on Display: The Authenticity Debate Revisted,” Studia Ethnologica Croatica 19 (2007), 293– 302. 39. Anthony Smith, Ernst Gellner, “The Warwick Debate,” Nations and Nationalism 2.3 (November 1996), 357– 88; Anthony Smith, The Nation: Real or Imagined? The Warwick Debates on Nationalism (Cambridge, 1996). 40. Regina Bendrix, “Ethnology, Cultural Reification and the Dynamics of Difference in the Kronprinzenwerk,” in: Wingfield, Creating the Other, 152. 41. Confino, Germany as a Culture of Rememberance, 41; see also Patrick Young, “Fashioning Heritage,” Journal of Social History 42.3 (Spring 2009), 631– 56. 42. Augustus Hare, The Life and Letters of Frances Baroness Bunsen (New York, 1880 [London, 1878]), 1:68. 43. Augusta Hall [as Lady Llanover], Good Cookery Illustrated, and Recipes Communicated by the Welsh Hermit of the Cell of St. Gover (London, 1867). 44. John White, Guide to the Town and Neighbourhood of Abergavenny (Abergavenny, 1845), 39, 43. 45. Josias Bunsen, Outlines of the Philosophy of Universal History (London, 1854), 2 vols. 46. Josias Bunsen, “Letter of 31 May 1855,” Frances Bunsen, A Memoir of Baron Bunsen (London, 1868– 69), 2:377. 47. Bunsen, A Memoir of Baron Bunsen, 1:294. 48. Hare, The Life and Letters of Frances Baroness Bunsen, 1:68. 49. Augusta Waddington Hall, sketchbook with watercolours by A. Cadwaladr, Cambrian Costumes Dedicated to the Nobility and Gentry of Wales (1830). 276 Notes
50. Gwyn Williams, “Romanticism in Wales,” in Porter, Teich, eds., Romanticism in National Context (Cambridge, 1998), 33. 51. Hywel Teifi Edwards, The Eisteddfod (Cardiff, 1990 [Llandysul, 1976]); Prys Morgan, “From Death to a View,” in: Hobsbawm, Ranger, eds., The Invention of Tradition, 43– 100. 52. Lady Llanover, Cambrian Costumes Dedicated to the Nobility and Gentry of Wales. Supplied by Llyfrgell Genedlaethol Cymru / The National Library of Wales, drawing volume DV299. 53. Lady Llanover [as Gwenynen Gwent], The Advantages Resulting from the Preservation of the Welsh Language and National Costumes of Wales (London, 1863), 10, 11, 12– 13. 54. Mary Howitt, The Cost of Caergwyn (London, 1864), 3:212, 214. 55. Lady Llanover, The Welsh Language and National Costumes of Wales, 12. 56. Marcus Tanner, The Last of the Celts (New Haven, 2004), 194. 57. Ronald Hutton, Witches, Druids and King Arthur (New York, 2006 [2003]), 7. 58. “Obituary Memoirs,” Gentleman’s Magazine 3 ( June 1867), 814. 59. Alan Gailey, “The Nature of Tradition,” Folklore 100.2 (1989), 156. 60. “General Literature – Abergavenny Eisteddfod,” The Cambrian Journal (Spring 1854), 46. 61. White, Guide to the Town and Neighbourhood of Abergavenny, 41 62. “Gorsedd of the Bards of the Isle of Britain; the Royal Chair of Powys; and the Grand Eisteddfod held at Llangollen,” Cambrian Journal (Winter 1858), 299. 63. “Letter of 11 February 1861 to William Griffith,” reprinted in “Ab Ithel,” Cambrian Journal (Autumn 1864), 272– 73. 64. “Ab Ithel,” Cambrian Journal (Autumn 1864), 273– 74. 65. Marion Löffler, The Literary and Historical Legacy of Iolo Morganwg (Cardiff, 2008); Mary- Anne Constantine, The Truth Against the World: Iolo Morganwg and Romantic Forgery (Cardiff, 2007). 66. Mary- Ann Constantine, “Welsh Literary History and the Making of ‘The Myvyrian Archaiology of Wales’,” in: van Hulle, Leerssen, eds., Editing the Nation’s Memory (Amsterdam, 2008), 116– 17. 67. William Owen [as Pughe], Heroic Elegies and Other pieces of Llywarç Hen (London, 1792), xxxvi– xli. 68. Mary- Ann Constantine, “Songs and Stones: Iolo Morganwg (1747– 1826),” The Eighteenth Century 47.2 (Summer 2006), 233– 51. 69. Pughe, Heroic Elegies, 87. 70. John Williams ab Ithel, “Introduction: Iolo Morganwg and the Dream of Other Days,” The Barddas of Iolo Morganwg (Boston, 2004), xi. 71. Johann Wilhelm von Archenholz, “Zehnter Abschnitt: Sittengeschichte,” in Annalen der brittischen Geschichte des Jahrs 1788 bis 1795 (Karlsruhe, 1794), 9:465. 72. Gwyn Williams, The Search for Beulah Land (London, 1980), 33; Gwyn Williams, The Welsh in their History (London, 1982), 53. 73. “Miscellaneous Notices: The Llangollen Eisteddfod,” Cambrian Journal 4 (1857), 231. 74. Another author in the same volume claimed bardic white represented “purity of religion and morals” and blue “the celestial origin of poetry.” W.E.J., “The Degrees and Vestments of the Bards”; T.H.T, “The Gorsedd cer- emonies,” The Eisteddfod: A Short History of the Gorsedd of the Bards of the Isle of Britain (Chester, 1909), 18, 21. Notes 277
75. Charlotte Aull Davies, “‘A oes heddwch?’ Contesting Meanings and Identities in the Welsh National Eisteddfod,” in: Felicia Hughes- Freeland, ed., Ritual, Performance, Media (London, 1998), 143. 76. Cathryn Charnell- White, Bardic Circles (Cardiff, 2007), 139. 77. Edward Parry, Royal visits and progresses to Wales, and the Border Counties (London, 1851), 470. 78. “Correspondence,” Cambrian Journal 5 (1858), 366. 79. “Correspondence,” Cambrian Journal 5 (1858), 367. 80. “Queries,” Cambrian Journal 7 (1860), 361. 81. Morgan, “From Death to a View,” 81. 82. F.G. Payne, “Welsh Peasant Costume,” Folk Life 2 (1964), 42– 57; Morgan, “From Death to a View,” 71– 89; Lou Taylor, The Study of Dress History (Manchester, 2002), 221– 22. 83. Christine Stevens, “Welsh Costume and the Influence of Lady Llanover,” 13. See URL
100. John Mahaffy, Greek Pictures (London, 1890), 21. 101. Two songs recorded in John Baggally’s hellenophile study of “Klephtic Ballads” characterize klephts as Albanians. See Greek Historical Folksongs: The Klephtic Ballads in Relation to Greek History (Chicago, 1968), 27, 83. On the foustanela in Albania, see Isa Blumi, “Undressing the Albanian,” in: Faroqi, Neumann, eds., Ottoman Costumes, 167– 68. 102. William St. Clair, That Greece Might Still Be Free (Cambridge, 2008 [Oxford, 1972]), 350. 103. Henry Bradfield, The Athenaid, or Modern Grecians (London, 1830), 146. 104. William Whitcombe, Sketches of Modern Greece (London, 1828), 1:404. 105. Litsa Trayiannoudi, “Byron in Greece,” in: Richard Cardwell, ed., The Reception of Byron in Europe (London, 2004), 426; “Ode on the Death of Lord Byron,” in: C.A. Trypanis, Medieval and Modern Greek Poetry (Oxford, 1951), 158. 106. William Kaldis, John Capodistrias and the Modern Greek State (Madison, 1963); Mendelssohn- Bartholdy, Graf Johann Kapodistrias (Berlin, 1864); Heleneˉ Koukkou, Ionis A. Kapodistrias (Athens, 2001). 107. Mendelssohn- Bartholdy, Graf Johann Kapodistrias, 362. 108. Jean- Pierre Pellion, La Grèce et les Capodistrias pendant l’occupation Française de 1828 a 1834 (Paris, 1855), 147; also 186– 87. 109. Trant, Narrative of a Journey Through Greece, 160. 110. Maria Todorova, Imagining the Balkans (New York, 1997); Larry Wolff, Inventing Eastern Europe (Palo Alto, 1994). 111. Trant, Narrative of a Journey Through Greece, 161. 112. See Peter von Hess, “Einzug König Ottos in Nauplia” (1835), “Empfang König Ottos von Griechenland in Athen,” both in the Neue Pinkathek, Munich, Inventory Nos. WAF 352 and WAF 353. 113. In the Regensburger Porträtgalerie the engravings “Otto I. König von Griechenland,” 9994/PoS KF no. 1134, “Otto König von Griechenland / Othon Basileye tes Ellados,” 9994/PoS GF no. 97, and Gottlieb Bodmer’s painting “Otto I. König von Griechenland / Othon Basileye tes Hellados,” catalogue number 9994/PoS GF no. 96. 114. Hermann Hettner, Griechische Reiseskizzen (Braunschweig, 1853), 148. 115. “La Grèce: Pays de souvenirs, de l’affliction, de désir ardent,” Nouvelles annals de voyages et des sciences géographiques 4 (1832), 80. 116. Ferdinand Maximilian I, Mein erster Ausflug (Leipzig, 1868), 85. 117. Friederich Tietz, St. Petersburgh, Constantinople, and Napolie di Romania, in 1833 and 1834 (New York, 1836), 181. 118. Hettner, Griechische Reiseskizzen, 146, translation from “Athens in 1853,” Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine 74.457 (November 1853), 576. 119. Henry Lucy, Memories of Eight Courts (London, 1908), 282. 120. Mary Simpson, Letters and Recollections of Julius and Mary Mohl (London, 1887), 28. 121. Gottlieb Bodmer, colorized lithography of a sketch from life by Dietrich Monten, “Otto I König von Griechenland,” the original is in the Regensburger Porträtgalerie, 9994/PoS GF Nr. 130. See also Rolf Schneider, “Friend and Foe: The Orient in Rome,” in: Curtis, Stewart, eds., The Age of the Parthians (London, 2007), 51– 52. 122. Godfrey Levinge, The Traveller In the East (London, 1839), 103– 104. 123. Koliopoulis, Brigands with a Cause, 80. Notes 279
124. George Finlay, History of the Greek Revolution (London, 1861), 1:48; Linda Welters, “Ethnicity in Greek Dress,” in Joanne Eicher, ed., Dress and Ethnicity (Oxford, 1995), 53– 78. 125. “From the Mss. Of a Traveler in the East, no. III: A Modern Greek,” The New England Magazine 1 (September 1831), 241; “Sketches of Modern Greece,” Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine 43.5 (May 1838), 621. 126. Ludwig Frankl, Nach Jerusalem! (Leipzig, 1858), 1:46; Edward Giffard, A Short Visit to the Ionian Islands, Athens and the Morea (London, 1837), 54; Dominic Corrigan, Ten Days in Athens, With Notes By the Way (London, 1862), 62; 67– 68. 127. Adolph Strahl, Das alte und das neue Griechenland (Vienna, 1840); cited from a review in “Notizen,” Blätter für literarische Unterhaltungen 301 (27 October 1840), 1216. 128. Francis Hervé, A Residence in Greece and Turkey (London, 1837), 1:1445. 129. Edmond About, La Grèce contemporaine (Paris, 1855); translation from The Greeks of the Present Day (Edinburgh, 1860); on Poles in Othon’s service, see 52; on English, 57; on French, 59; on Italians, 60– 61. 130. About, The Greeks of the Present Day, 51– 52; Demétrius Bikélas, “Statistics of the Kingdom of Greece,” Journal of the Statistical Society 31, part 3 (September 1868), 271. 131. Hering, Die politischen Partein in Griechenland, 1821– 1936 (Munich, 1997), 1:187. 132. Leo von Klenze, Aphoristische Bemerkungen gesammelt auf seiner Reise nach Griechenland (Berlin, 1838), 104; Édouard Duboc [as Robert Waldmüller], Wander- Studien; Italien Griechenland und daheim (Leipzig, 1861), 2:13. 133. George Nugent Grenville, Lands, Classical and Sacred (London, 1845); cited from The Quarterly Review 78.161 (September 1846), 311. 134. Alexeˉs Politeˉs, Romantika Chronia: ideologies kai nootropies steˉn Hellada tou 1833– 1880 (Athens, 1993), 124. Thanks to Aliki Kalliabetsos for this translation. 135. Politeˉs, Romantika Chronia, 124. 136. Entry 56, Official Catalogue of the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations, 1851 (London, 1852), 5. 137. Artemis Yagou, “Facing the West: Greece in the Great Exhibition of 1851,” Design Issues 19.4 (Autumn 2003), 84, 87. 138. Entry 56, Official Catalogue of the Great Exhibition, 5; the illustration also appeared in the three catalogue of the same name, 1:1407. 139. Robert Ellis, Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue of the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations (London, 1851), 1:1406. 140. About, The Greeks of the Present Day, 112. 141. Waldmüller, Wander- Studien, 2:15. 142. Paul Cassia, Constantina Bada, The Making of the Modern Greek Family (Cambridge, 1992), 181. 143. G.W. Marshall, “Greece in 1864,” The Social Science Review and Journal of the Sciences 3.13 (2 January 1865), 50. 144. François Lenormant, La Grèce et les îles ioniennes (Paris, 1865); translation from “Modern Greece,” New Monthly Magazine 136.542 (February 1866), 135. 145. Arthur Arnold, From the Levant, the Black Sea and the Danube (London, 1868), 1:37, 1:156, 1:194. 280 Notes
146. James Verinis, “Spiridon Loues, the modern Foustanéla, and the Symbolic Power of Pallikariá at the 1896 Olympic Games,” Journal of Modern Greek Studies 23 (2005), 143. 147. Vasso Fotou, Anne Brown, “Harriet Boyd Hawes,” in: Cohen, Joukowsky, eds., Breaking Ground: Pioneering Woman Archaeologists (Ann Arbor, 2004), 211. 148. William Rose, With the Greeks in Thessaly (London: Methuen, 1897), 7. 149. Hagen Fleischer, “The National Liberation Front (EAM): 1941– 47,” in: Iatrides, Wrigley, eds., Greece at the Crossroads (University Park, 1995), 57. 150. Stylianos Perrakis, The Ghosts of Plaka Beach (Cranbury, 2006), 74, 211. 151. Ellis, Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations, 1:1406. 152. Elizabeth Constantinides, “Andreiomeni: The Female Warrior in Greek Folk Songs,” Journal of Modern Greek Studies 1.1 (1983), 63– 72. 153. Welters, “Ethnicity in Greek Dress,” 61. 154. Alison Goodrum, The National Fabric (Oxford, 2005), 177. 155. Trevor- Roper, “The Invention of Tradition,” 30– 33. 156. See Iveta Jusová, “Gabriela Preissová’s Women- Centered Texts: Subverting the Myth of the Homogeneous Nation,” Slavic and East European Journal, vol. 49, no. 1 (Spring 2005), 72. 157. Weber, Peasants into Frenchmen, 230, 227– 31. 158. Edgár Balogy, Tíz nap Szegényországban (Budapest, 1988 [1930]), 7– 9; cited from Deborah Cornelius, In Search of the Nation (Boulder, 1998), 293. 159. Jesusa Vega, “Spain’s Image and Regional Dress,” in: Larson, Woods, eds., Visualizing Spanish Modernity (Oxford, 2005), 221– 22.
9 National Fashionism: Queen Fashion as Patriot
1. Museum der eleganten Welt, no. 24 (23 March 1836), cited from Isabella Belting, Mode und Revolution: Deutschland 1848/49 (Hildesheim, Zürich, New York, 1997), 48. 2. “What we Spend for Fashion,” The Myrtle, for Home, and the Sabbath School (11 July 1852), 198. 3. Ribeiro, Fashion in the French Revolution, 56– 58, 77. 4. “ Moden- Neuigkeiten aus England,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 8 (March 1793), 155. The Journal cites London’s Matrimonial Magazine. The same journal also discussed tricolour ribbons bearing the words liberté or egalité, see “Modeneuigkeiten aus Deutschland,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 8 (February 1793), 97– 98. 5. Levinger, Enlightened Nationalism, 64. 6. “Modenbericht aus Berlin in März 1815,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 30 (April 1815), 250. 7. “Foreign Estimates of England,” Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine 74.455 (September 1853), 295. 8. Jennifer Jones, “Repackaging Rousseau: Femininity and Fashion in Old Regime France,” French Historical Studies 18.4 (1994), 958. 9. Dominique Veillon, Fashion under the Occupation (Oxford, 2002), 85– 106; Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion: A Cultural History (Oxford, 1998), 263– 68. 10. John Lynch [as Cratianus Lucius], Cambrensis Eversus, seu Poctius Historiaca Fides in Rebus Hibernicus Giraldo Cambrensi Abrogata (Dublin, 1848), 1:193. Notes 281
11. G.N., “The Change of Dress a sign of the Political Degeneracy of Nations,” Notes and Queries 154 (11 December 1858), 476. 12. “Correspondence,” Cambrian Journal (1858), 366. 13. Christine Ruane, “Spreading the Word: The Development of the Russian Fashion Press,” in: Regina Blaszczyk, ed., Producing Fashion (Philadelphia, 2007), 35. 14. “Plan und Ankündigung,” London und Paris 1.1 (31 May 1798), 4. 15. Foglar, “Gegen Frack und Hut,” 322. 16. “O deˇjinách kultury v cˇechách,” Humoristické Listy 8.15 (14 April 1866), 119– 20; “Granaty,” Humoristické Listy 5.23 (7 March 1863), 187. 17. On the Jewish dominance of the Bohemian textile trade, see Gustav Otruba, “Der Anteil der Juden am Wirtschaftsleben der böhmischen Länder seit dem Beginn der Industrialisierung,” in: Ferdinand Seibt, ed., Die Juden in den böh- mischen Ländern (Munich, 1983), 209– 68. 18. T.S. Ashton, An Economic History of England (London, 2006 [London, 1955]), 154. 19. David Seward, “The Wool Textile Industry, 1750– 1960,” in: John Gerait Jenkins, ed., The Wool Textile Industry in Great Britain (London, 1972), 34. 20. Richard Brown, Society and Economy in Modern Britain (London, 1991), 84, 85; Peter Mathias, The First Industrial Nation (London, 2001), 281. 21. Peter Dicken, Global Shift: The Internationalization of Economic Activity (London, 1992), 223. 22. Donna Andrew, ed., London Debating Societies (London, 1994), 156, 176. 23. Richard Lovell Edgeworth, Maria Edgeworth, Memoirs of Lovell Edgeworth (London, 1844), 134. 24. John Scott Waring, The Ladies’ Monitor (London, 1809), 25. 25. “Fashion: A Vision,” Monthly Magazine and British Register 3 (1797), 256. 26. “Facts of Fashion,” The Ladies’ Companion 22.2 (1862) 260. 27. “Jack Modish, no. 175,” The Spectator with Notes and a General Index (New York, 1826), 1: 229– 30. 28. “Schemes for Uniformity of Dress,” Gentleman’s Magazine 7 ( July 1737), 432. 29. All quotations are English phrases in the German original. “Aufruf an die Modewelt zur Errichtung eines Mode- Telegraphen,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 17 (1802), 66, 69. 30. “Das neue Parliament der Mode,” Journal des Luxus und der Moden 13 (August 1798), 438. 31. “Das neue Parliament der Mode,” 439. 32. Misogymnotas, “The National Morality Implicated in Female Dress,” Morning Chronicle, reprinted in Stephen Joss, ed., The Spirit of the Public Journals for 1803 (London, 1804), 16– 19. 33. Misogymnotas, “The National Morality Implicated in Female Dress,” 16. 34. Oracle and Public Advertiser (18 January 1796), 3. 35. François Crouzet, The Victorian Economy (London, 1982), 191– 92. 36. Martin Kitchen, The Political Economy of Germany (London, 1978), 57; James Sheehan, German History, 1770– 1866 (Oxford, 1993), 497. 37. “A. Tschr.,” “Etwas über die Leipziger Michaelis Messe- 1806,” Allgemeine Moden- Zeitung 11 (4 November 1806), 81– 82. 38. “Über deutsche Volkstracht,” Allgemeine Deutsche Frauen- Zeitung 1.13 (14 February 1816), 52. 282 Notes
39. “Modenbericht,” Tagesbericht für die Modenwelt 15 (1848), 30. 40. “Modenbericht,” Tagesbericht für die Modenwelt 15 (1848), 29. 41. “Wiener Moden,” Wiener Sonntagsblätter 7.25 (1848), 478. 42. “Deutsche Ringe,” Wiener Abendzeitung 14 (11 April 1848), 58; “Die deutsche Farben,” Wiener Abendzeitung 23 (21 April 1848), 94. 43. “Modenbericht,” Tagesbericht für die Modenwelt 18 (1848), 36. 44. “Modenbericht,” Tagesbericht für die Modenwelt 18 (1848), 36; Belting, Mode und Revolution, 49. 45. Ute Frevert, Women in German History (New York, 1993 [1989]), 81. 46. “Generalcorrespondenz,” Allgemeine Moden- Zeitung 50.17 (March 1848), 135. 47. “Modenbericht,” Tagesbericht für die Modenwelt 15 (1848), 29. 48. “Eine Kriegserklärung der Damen,” Der Humorist 12.96, 389– 90. 49. “Krieg den ausländischen Cigarren,” Der Humorist 12. 97– 98, 399. 50. See “Porte épée oder nicht porte épée,” Der Humorist 12.76 (29 March 1848), 303; “Warum sind die Nationalgarden nicht Gezwungen,” Wiener Abendzeitung 5 (31 March 1848), 18; Albert Rimmer, “Das Kleid der Nationalgarde,” Wiener Abendzeitung 7 (2 April 1848), 36; A.S., “Die deutsche Hüte,” Wiener Abendzeitung 18 (15 April 1848), 75– 76; “Der Silberne Zopf bei der Nationalgarde,” Allgemeine Straßen- Zeitung 71 (18 August, 1848); “Uniformirung der Nationalgarde,” Wiener Sonntagsblätter 7.14/3; Karl Scherzer, “Porte- epée und Nationalgarde,” Wiener Sonntagsblätter 7.15/4; J.P. Lyser, “Der Nationalgardist an seinen Commander,” Wiener Abendzeitung 23 (21 April 1848), 95. 51. Foglar, “Gegen Frack und Hut,” 323. 52. Mazohl- Wallnig, “Männliche Öffentlichkeit und weibliche Privatsphäre?” 131; Lia Secci, “German Women Writers and the Revolution of 1848,” in: John Fout, ed., German Women in the Nineteenth Century (New York, London, 1984), 153; Frevert, Women in German History, 78. 53. Gerlinde Hummel- Haasis, ed., Schwestern, zerreißt eure Ketten (Munich, 1982); Carola Lipp, Schimpfende Weiber und patriotische Jungfrauen (Zürich, 1998); Ute Gerhard, “Über die Anfänge der deutschen Frauenbewegung um 1848,” in: Karin Hausen, ed., Frauen suchen ihre Geschichte (Munich, 1983), 196– 220; Gabriella Hauch, “Blumenkranz und Selbstbewaffnung – Frauenengagement in der Wiener Revolution 1848,” in: Helga Grubitszch, ed., Grenzgängerinnen: Revolutionäre Frauen im 19. und 20. Jahrhundert (Düsseldorf, 1985), 93– 133. 54. Frevert, Women in German History, 75. 55. “Neuigkeiten,” Wiener Gassenzeitung 128 (24 October, 1848), 513. 56. Ad. Foglar, “Skizzen aus dem Barrikadenleben,” Wiener Sonntagsblätter 7.23/12, 395. 57. See R.J.W. Evans, “Hungary in the Habsburg Monarchy in the 19th Century,” The Hungarian Quarterly 44.171 (Autumn 2003), 60– 72; Tibor Frank, “Anglophiles: The ‘ Anglo- Saxon’ Orientation of Hungarian Foreign Policy, 1930s through 1944,” Hungarian Quarterly 181 (2006), 60– 72. 58. George Barany, Stephen Szechenyi and the Awakening of Hungarian Nationalism (Princeton, 1968). 59. Der ungarische Schutzverein (Leipzig, 1845), 73. 60. Der ungarische Schutzverein, 75. 61. Ágnes Pogány, “Wirtschaftsnationalismus in Ungarn im 19. und 20. Jahrhundert,” in: Pogány, Kubu˚, Kofman, eds., Für eine nationale Wirtschaft Notes 283
(Berlin, 2006), 44; Elena Mannová, “Das Vereinswesen in Ungarn und die Revolution 1848/49,” in: Holger Fischer, ed., Die ungarische Revolution von 1848/49 (Hamburg, 1999), 58; Théodore Fix, “Tendances industrielles et com- mericiales de quelques états de l’europe,” Journal des économistes 11 (1845), 371. 62. E.O.S., Hungary and its Revolutions, with a memoir of L. Kossuth (London, 1854), 248. 63. Robert Nemes, “The Politics of the Dance Floor: Culture and Civil Society in Nineteenth Century Hungary,” Slavic Review 60.6 (Winter 2001), 808. 64. “Magyar Divat,” Pesti Divatlap 1.1 (1844), 1– 4. 65. Imre Vahot, “A Magyar társasélet jövo˝je,” Pesti Divatlap 2.36 (1845), 1195. 66. “Telegraph aus Ungarn und Siebenbürgen,” Pester Zeitung 75 (7 August 1845), 411. 67. Ernst Newmann, ed., Memoirs of Hector Berlioz: From 1803 to 1865 (New York, 1966 [1932]), 386. 68. P.H.L., “Divateszmék,” Honderu˝ 2.26 (7 December 1844), 367. 69. “Divatcsöregetyü,” Honderu˝ 1.1 (7 January 1843), 38– 40; Nemes, “The Politics of the Dance Floor,” 812. 70. Alexander Sandelin, Répertoire général d’économie politique ancienne et modern (The Hague, 1850), 2:589– 90; Robert Evans, “Széchenyi and Austria,” in: Blanning, Cannadine, eds., History and Biography (Oxford, 1996), 131. 71. K. Hock, “Gegen den ungarischen Schutzverein,” Pester Zeitung 64 (18 July 1845), 351; also available as Gegen den ungarischen Schutzverein und seine Tendenzen (Leipzig, 1845), 80. 72. Therese Pulszky, Memoirs of a Hungarian Lady (London, 1850), 4; also avail- able as Aus dem Tagebuche einer Ungarischen Dame (Leipzig, 1850), 4. 73. Pulszky, Memoirs, 6. 74. Pulszky, Memoirs, 7. 75. Ferenc Pulszky, Mein Zeit, Mein Leben (Bratislava, Leipzig, 1880), 1:343– 54. 76. Robert Evans, Austria, Hungary and the Habsburgs (Oxford, 2006), 251. 77. John Komlos, The Habsburg Monarchy as a Customs Union (Princeton, 1983). 78. George Barany, “The Age of Royal Absolutism,” in Peter Sugar, ed., A History of Hungary (Bloomington, 1994), 201. 79. “Pesth,” Christian Noback, Friedrich Noback, Vollständiges Taschenbuch der Münz-, Maass- und Gewichtsverhältnisse der Staatspapiere (Leipzig, 1851), 1:893. 80. Franz Raffelsperger, Allgemeines geographisch- statistisches Lexikon aller öster- reichischen Staaten (Vienna, 1846), 3:456. 81. Nemes, “The Politics of the Dance Floor,” 809. 82. István Deák, The Lawful Revolution (New York, 1979); Gabor Bona, The Hungarian Revolution and War of Independence (Boulder, 1999). 83. “Divat,” Honderu˝ 6.11 (18 March 1848), 176. 84. “A Nemzeti Kokárdákat és kerekkalapokat,” Pesti Divatlap 16 (1 April 1848), 420. On Hungarian Jews during the 1848 Revolution, see Ignac Einhorn, Die Revolution und die Juden in Ungarn (Leipzig, 1851); Salo Baron, “The Impact of the Revolution of 1848 on Jewish Emancipation,” Jewish Social Studies 11.3 ( July 1949), 195– 248. 85. See “Baron W.” Scenes of the Civil War in Hungary, in 1848 and 1849 (Philadelphia, 1850), 195. 86. Alice Freifeld, Nationalism and the Crowd in Liberal Hungary (Washington, DC, 2000), 102. 284 Notes
87. “A radikál magyar hölgyekkivántal,” Pesti Divatlap 20 (29 April 1848), 522– 23. 88. William Stiles, Austria in 1848– 49 (New York, 1852), 2:311. 89. Henry Mayhew, London Labour and the London Poor (London, 1851), 1:229; James Hammerton, Cruelty and Companionship (London, 1992), 22– 23. 90. Charles Loring Brace, Hungary in 1851, With an Experience of the Austrian Police (New York, 1853), 40. 91. Brace, Hungary in 1851, 200; Freifeld, Nationalism and the Crowd in Liberal Hungary, 101. 92. Freifeld, Nationalism and the Crowd in Liberal Hungary, 102. 93. “Milyen bej az, ha embernek cask egy frakkja van,” Szépirodalmi közlöny 49.23 (21 March 1858), 1174; Károly Északy, “Divat és szokás,” Szépirodalmi közlöny 43.17 (28 February 1858), 1013– 14. 94. “In Angelegenheit des ungarischen Mode- Vereins,” Magyar Divatfutár 2.5 (September 1864), 17. 95. Ede Károlyi, “A nemzeti divat érdekében,” Divatcsarnok supplement to no. 4 (1860), no page numbers. 96. Károlyi, “A nemzeti divat érdekében,” no page numbers. 97. “Föváros és vidék,” Divatcsárnok, supplement to no. 4 (1860), no page numbers. 98. David Ansted, A Short Trip in Hungary and Transylvania in the Spring of 1862 (London, 1862), 14– 15. 99. Arthur Patterson, The Magyars: Their Country and Institutions (London, 1869), 2:32. 100. Frances Trollope, Vienna and the Austrians (Paris, 1838), 2:42. 101. Charles Sealsfield, Austria as it is (London, 1828), 111 102. Katalin Dózsa, “How the Hungarian national Costume Evolved,” in: Poly Cone, ed., The Imperial Style (New York, 1980), 74– 87. 103. John Paget, Hungary and Transylvania (London, 1839), 1:419. 104. Paget, Hungary and Transylvania, 1:420. 105. Ansted, A Short Trip in Hungary, 14. 106. Michael Quinn, A Steam Voyage Down the Danube (Paris, 1836), 142. 107. Paget, Hungary and Transylvania, 1:420, 1:35. 108. August de Gerando, Siebenbürgen und seine Bewohner (Leipzig, 1845), 1:141. 109. Imre Vahot, “A Magyar társasélet jövo˝je,” Pesti Divatlap 2.36 (1845), 1195. 110. Nemes, “The Politics of the Dance Floor,” 819. 111. De Gerando, Siebenbürgen und seine Bewohner, 1:116. 112. Max Schlesinger, The War in Hungary, 1848– 1849 (London, 1850), 24. 113. Brace, Hungary in 1851, 40, 85. 114. Peter Hidas, The Metamorphosis of a Social Class in Hungary during the Reign of Young Franz Joseph (New York, 1977), 61. 115. Alice Freifeld, “Empress Elisabeth as Hungarian Queen,” in: Cole, Unowsky, eds., The Limits of Loyalty (London, 2007), 144– 45. 116. Freifeld, “Empress Elisabeth as Hungarian Queen,” 145. 117. “Egy frakk metamorphosusai,” Bolond Miska 2.28 (1861), 111. 118. Bálint Ökröss, ed., Törvények és hivatalos rendeletek gyüjteménye (Budapest, 1868), 153. 119. The dress is now on display in the Vienna Hofburg. Wolfgang Fischer, Gustav Klimt and Emile Flöge (Woodstock, New York, 1992), 64. 120. Patterson, The Magyars, 1:21. Notes 285
121. Franz Löher, Die Magyaren und andere Ungarn (Leipzig, 1874), 161. 122. Péter Gosztony, Endkampf an der Donau, 1944/45 (Vienna, 1969), 58. 123. László Kürti, The Remote Borderland: Transylvania in the Hungarian Imagination (Albany, 2001), 81. 124. Sándor Mednyánszky [as Miss A.M. Birkbeck], Rural and Historical Gleanings from Eastern Europe (London, 1856), 6. 125. Eugen Kvaternik, Das historisch- diplomatische Verhältniss des Königreichs Kroatian zu der ungarischen St. Stephans- Krone (Zagreb, 1860), 153. 126. Patterson, The Magyars, 1:200. 127. “Tavaszi öltözek,” “Hazi öltözek,” and “Nyári öltözek,” Divatcsarnok Szépirodalmi, mu˝vészeti és divatközlöny (1860); Katalin Dózsa, “Osztrák- Magyar kamcsolatok és kölcsönhetások a divat terülén 1850 és 1916 között,” Folia Historica 5 (1977), 211. 128. Handabanda 1.4 (31 January 1863), 16. 129. Divat Salon 8.3 (1914/15). 130. Miklós Zeidler, “Irredentism in Everyday Life in Hungary during the Inter- war Period,” Regio: Minorities, Politics, Society (2002), 86; Magyar Uriasszonyok Lapja 15.22 (1 August 1938), front cover; Magyar Uriasszonyok Lapja 15.28 (1 October 1938), front cover. 131. David Turnock, Eastern Europe (London, 1989), 95. 132. Ivan Berend, “Hungary: A Semi- successful Peripheral Industrialization,” in: Teich, Porter, eds., The Industrial Revolution in National Context (Cambridge, 1996), 286, 283. 133. Magda Veér, “A no˝k és a magyarság,” Magyar Divat 1.5 (1 December 1906), 15– 16. 134. Nemes, “The Politics of the Dance Floor,” 811. 135. Marion Gray, Productive Men, Reproductive Women: The Agrarian Household and the Emergence of Separate Spheres during the German Enlightenment (New York, 2000); Brian Harrison, Separate Spheres: The Opposition to Women’s Suffrage in Britain (London, 1978); Marjanne Goozé, Challenging Separate Spheres (Bern, 2007); Maura O’Connor, The Romance of Italy and the English Political Imagination (New York, 1998), 93– 116; Robert Shoemaker, Gender in English Society, 1650– 1850 (London, 1998). For feminist critiques of “separate spheres” ideology, see Cathy Davidson, Jessamyn Hatcher, No More Separate Spheres! (Durham, 2002); Rosalind Rosenberg, Beyond Separate Spheres (New Haven, 1983). 136. Yuval- Davis, Gender and Nation, 78. 137. Brigitte Mazohl- Wallnig, “Männliche Öffentlichkeit und weibliche Privatsphäre?,” in: Friedrich, Urbanitsch, eds., Von Bürgern und ihren Frauen (Vienna, Cologne, Weimar, 1996), 129. 138. Pierre Bourdieu, Distinction (Cambridge, 1984), 252.
10 Haute Couture and National Textiles
1. “Naš Program,” Modní Noviny 1.1 (1917), 9. 2. Henry van de Velde, “Die kunsterliche Hebung der Frauentracht,” cited from Stern, Against Fashion, 125. 3. Crossick, Jaumain, eds., Cathedrals of Consumption (Aldershot, 1999). 286 Notes
4. Michael Miller, The Bon Marché (Princeton, 1994), 41– 42. 5. Philip Nord, The Politics of Resentment (Princeton, 1986), 60– 99. 6. Erika Rappaport, Shopping for Pleasure (Princeton, 2001), 27– 29. 7. Lrista Lyscack, Come Buy, Come Buy! Shopping and the Culture of Consumption in Victorian Women’s Writing (Athens, 2008), 21. 8. Christine Ruane, The Empire’s New Clothes (New Haven, 2009), 121, 122– 23. 9. Jay Pederson, Thomas Derdak, International Directory of Company Histories (New York, 1999), 26:159. 10. Carl Erik Andresen, Søren Toft Hansen, Dansk møbelindustri (Århus, 1996), 50. 11. Tina Grant, International Directory of Company Histories (New York, 1988), 19:235; Siegfried Gerlach, Das Warenhaus in Deutschland (Stuttgart, 1988). 12. Gábor Gyáni, “Középosztályi fogyasztási kultúra és az áruház,” Budapesti negyed 5. 2– 3 (1997), 101– 27; Gábor Gyáni, “Department Stores and Middle- Class Consumerism in Budapest,” in: Crossick, Jaumain, Cathedrals of Consumption, 208– 24. 13. Charles Manby Smith, The Little World of London (London, 1857), 324; 331– 39; “London Shops and Bazaars,” in: Charles Knight, ed., London (London, 1843), 5:385– 400; Tammy Whitlock, Crime, Gender, and Consumer Culture in Nineteenth- century England (Aldershot, 2005), 86– 87. 14. “Revue de l’exposition universelle,” L’Ami des sciences 1.48 (2 December 1855), 480; Tilman Osterwold, Schaufenster: die Kulturgeschichte eines Massenmediums (Stuttgart, 1974). 15. Richard Coopey, Sean O’Connell, Dilwyn Porter, Mail Order Retailing in Britain (Oxford, 2005), 14. 16. Elisabetta Merlo, Francesca Polese, “Accessorizing, Italian Style,” in: Blaszczyk, Producing Fashion, 50; Eugenia Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt (Oxford, 2004), 123. 17. Miller, The Bon Marché, 61– 62. 18. Uwe Spiekermann, Basis der Konsumgesellschaft (Munich, 1999), 312– 14. 19. Grace Rogers Cooper, The Sewing Machine (Washington, 1976); H. Richard, Die Näh- maschine (Hanover, 1876). 20. Wheeler and Wilson used the statistics in advertising. Cooper, The Sewing Machine, 58. 21. Ted Morgan, The French: Portrait of a People (New York, 1969) 383; Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in Dreams (New Brunswick, 2003), 32; Orvar Löfgren, Robert Willim, Magic, Culture and the New Economy (Oxford, 2005), 58; Tasmina Perry, Guilty Pleasures (New York, 2009), 268. 22. Diana de Marly, Worth: Father of Haute Couture (London, 1980); Joanne Olin, House of Worth (New York, 1982) ; Jacqueline Kent, Business Builders in Fashion (Minneapolis, 2003), 22– 37; Edith Saunders, The Age of Worth, Couturier to the Empress Eugenie (London, 1954); on Worth’s creations, see The House of Worth Fashion Designs (London, 1984). 23. Christopher Breward, Fashion (Oxford, 2003), 30– 31. 24. Émile Langlade, La marchande de modes de Marie- Antoinette, Rose Bertin (Paris, 1911); available in English as Rose Bertin (New York, 1913); on Bertin and Worth, see Jennifer Jones, “Coquettes and Grisettes,” in: de Grazia, Furlough, eds., The Sex of Things (Berkeley, 1996), 46. 25. Rose Bertin, Mémoires de Mademoiselle Bertin sur la reine Marie- Antoinette (Paris, Leipzig, 1824). Notes 287
26. Henriette Louise von Waldner, Memoirs of the Baroness d’Oberkirch, Countess de Montbrison (London, 1852), 1:223; see also Steele, Paris Fashions, 36. 27. Mark Tungate, Fashion Brands (London, 2005), 10; Henrik Vejlgaard, Anatomy of a Trend (New York, 2008), 39. 28. Marylène Delbourg- Delphis, Le chic et le look (Paris, 1981), 47. 29. Therese Dolan, “The Empress’s New Clothes: Fashion and Politics in Second Empire France,” Woman’s Art Journal 15.1 (1994), 22. 30. Paul Poiret, My First Fifty Years (London, 1931), 186; see also Mary Davis, Classic Chic: Music, Fashion and Modernism (Los Angeles, 2006), 38; Lynne Thorton, Women as Portrayed in Orientalist Painting (Paris, 1994), 18; Amanda Fernbach, Fantasies of Fetishism: From Decadence to the Post- Human (Edinburgh, 2002), 70. 31. Barbara Viniken, Mark Hewson, Fashion Zeitgeist (London, 2005), 22. 32. Poiret, My First Fifty Years, 73. 33. Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret (Philadelphia, 1930); the French original was En Habillant l’Epoque (Paris, 1930). 34. Axel Masden, Chanel: A Woman of her Own (New York, 1991); Sophie Dalloz- Ramaux, Madeleine Vionnet: Créatrice de mode (Yens sur Morges, 2006); Palmer White, Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Paris Fashion (New York, 1986); Elizabeth Hawes, Fashion is Spinach (New York, 1938). 35. For narratives about female designers who overcame adversity, see Pat Kirkham, Women Designers in the USA (New Haven, 2000); Valerie Steele, Women of Fashion (New York, 1991). 36. Van de Velde, “Die kunsterliche Hebung der Frauentracht,” 135. 37. Regina Blaszczyk, “Rethinking Fashion,” in: Blaszczyk, Producing Fashion, 9. 38. “Letter 135 of 25 May 1864,” in: Ernst Brücke, Briefe and Emil du Bois- Reymond (Graz, 1978), 136; cited from Timothy Lenoir, Instituting Science (Palo Alto, 1997), 320. 39. Sherwin Simmons, “Ornament, Gender and Interiority in Viennese Expressionism,” Modernism/Modernity 8.2 (2001), 248. 40. Angela Völker, Wiener Mode und Modefotografie (Munich, 1984), 14; see the children’s designs on p. 15. 41. Werner Schweiger, Gerhard Trumler, Wiener Werkstätte: Kunst und Handwerk (Augsburg, 1995); Christian Brandstatter, Wiener Werkstätte, Design in Vienna (New York, 2003); Walter Zednicek, Josef Hoffmann und die Wiener Werkstätte (Vienna, 2006). 42. Herta Neiss, 100 Jahre Wiener Werkstätte (Vienna, 2004), 243. 43. Schweiger Hess, “The Wiener Werkstätte and the Reform Impulse,” 117; Jeremy Aynsley, “Graphic Change, Design Change: Magazines for the Domestic Interior,” Journal of Design History 18.1 (Spring 2005), 43– 59. 44. Hess, “The Wiener Werkstätte and the Reform Impulse,” 113, 117, 125, 120. 45. Patricia Cunningham, Reforming Women’s Fashion (Kent, OH, 2002), 212. 46. Hess, “The Wiener Werkstätte and the Reform Impulse,” 123, 127. 47. Fischer, Gustav Klimt and Emile Flöge, 35– 36. 48. Paul Singer, “Planlegung der menschlichten Büstenfläsche,” Fachblatt der Genossenschaft der Kleidermacher Wiens 16.2 (15 June 1906), 11. 49. “Pariser or Wiener Modell,” Fachblatt der Genossenschaft der Kleidermacher Wiens 25.5 (1 March 1915), 1. 50. Hess, “The Wiener Werkstätte and the Reform Impulse,” 127, 315– 16; Völker, Wiener Mode und Modefotografie, 74– 76. 288 Notes
51. Hertha von Sprung, “Die Grundlagen der Modeindustrie,” Fachblatt der Genossenschaft der Kleidermacher Wiens 26.2 (1 February 1916), 6– 8. 52. Adolf Vetter, “Die staatsburgerliche Bedeutung der Qualitätsarbeit,” Die Durchgeistigung der deutschen Arbeit ( Jena, 1911), 14– 16; Wilfried Posch, “Die Österreichische Werkbundbewegung,” in: Ackerl, Neck, eds., Geistiges Leben im Österreich der Ersten Republik (Oldenbourg, 1986), 286– 87. 53. Adolf Vetter, “Reform der Mode,” Donauland – Illustrierte Monatscrhift 1.1 (1917), 83, 85. 54. Vetter, “Reform der Mode,” 85. 55. Patricia Ober, Der Frauen neue Kleider (Berlin, 2005); Cornelia Albrecht- Matschiske, Das künstlerische Reformkleid in Deutschland um die Jahrhundertwende (Bochum, 2000); Brigitte Stamm, “Das Reformkleid in Deutschland” (Berlin, 1976). 56. Vetter, “Reform der Mode,” 85. 57. Hess, “The Wiener Werkstätte and the Reform Impulse,” 121– 23. 58. Core von Pape, Kunstkleider (Cologne, 2008), 63; Sherwin Simmons, “Ornament, Gender and Interiority in Viennese Expressionism,” Modernism/ Modernity 8.2 (2001), 248– 50. 59. Hess, “The Wiener Werkstätte and the Reform Impulse,” 122– 23. 60. Core von Pape, Kunstkleider, 63; Arnold Aronson believes the story apocry- phal, see Looking into the Abyss (Ann Arbor, 2005), 138. 61. M. Barry Katz, “The Women of Futurism,” Women’s Art Journal 7.2 (1986– 87), 6; Willard Bohn, The Other Futurism: Futurist Activity in Venice, Padua, and Verona (Toronto, 2004), 38– 39. 62. Günter Berghaus, “The Futurist Banquet,” New Theatre Quarterly 65 17.1 (2001), 3– 6; Clara Orban, The Culture of Fragments (Amsterdam, 1997), 79. 63. See Giovanni Lista, L’art postal futuriste (Paris, 1979). 64. Filippo Marinetti, Luigi Colombo [as Fillía], La cucina futurista (Milan, 1932); cited from the English edition The Futurist Cookbook (London, 1989), 67, 96. 65. Filippo Marinetti, “Le Futurisme,” Le Figaro (20 February, 1909), 1. 66. Filippo Marinetti, Fondazione e manifesto del futurism (Milano, 1909). 67. The complete manifesto appeared in Bologna, Naples, and Verona; excerpts appeared in Trieste. See Christine Poggi, Inventing Futurism: The Politics of Artificial Optimism (Princeton, 2009), 4. 68. Filippo Marinetti, “The Founding and Manifesto of Futurism,” in: Umbro Apollonio, ed., Futurist Manifestos (New York, 1973), 19– 24. 69. See Apollonio, Futurist Manifestos; Luciano Caruso, ed., Manifesti, proclaim, interventi, e documenti teorici del futurismo, 1909– 1944 (Florence, 1990). 70. Giacomo Balla, Manifesto futurista del vestito da uomo (29 December 1913); cited from Apollonio, Futurist Manifestos, 132– 34. Balla’s French translation was published only in 1967; see Giovanni Lista, Marinetti et le futurisme (Lausanne, 1977), 208. 71. Giacomo Balla, “Letter to his family of 18 July 1912,” in Elica Balla, Con Balla (Milan, 1986), 1:266. 72. Giacomo Balla, Il vestito antineutrale: manifesto futurista (Milan, 11 September 1914). Anglophone scholars differ on the translation of vestito; I have chosen “suit” even though I otherwise cite Balla from Stern, who prefers “dress.” See Giacomo Balla, “The Antineutral Dress,” in: Stern, Against Fashion, 157– 59; alternatively “Le vêtement antineutraliste” in: Lista, Marinetti et le Futurisme, 209. Notes 289
73. Balla, “The Antineutral Dress,” 158. 74. David Raizman, History of Modern Design (London, 2003), 160. 75. Francesco Canguillo, Le serate futuriste (Naples, 1930), 210– 11, translation from Günter Berghaus, Futurism and Politics: Between Anarchist Rebellion and Fascist Reaction (Oxford, 1996), 77. 76. Giovanni Amendola, “Nuovi disordini all’Università di Roma provocati dai futuristi,” Corriere della sera (12 December 1914); translation from Berghaus, Futurism and Politics, 77. 77. Vincenzo Fani- Ciotti [as Volt], “Futurist Manifesto of Women’s Fashion,” Roma futurista 3.72 (29 February 1920); cited from Stern, Against Fashion, 180. 78. Volt, “Futurist Manifesto of Women’s Fashion,” 181. 79. Günter Berghaus, International Futurism in Arts and Literature (Berlin, 2000), 8– 9. 80. Filippo Marinetti, “The Italian Empire: To Benito Mussolini, Head of the New Italy,” in: Schnapp, Sears, Stampino, eds., A Primer of Italian Fascism (Lincoln, 2000), 276. 81. Mabel Berezin, Making the Fascist Self (Ithaca, 1997), 111; Julie Dashwood, “The Italian Futurist Theatre,” in: James Redmond, ed., Drama and Society (Cambridge, 1979), 1:144; on Marinetti’s relations with the fascist state, see Jeffery Schnapp, “Filippo Tommaso Marinetti,” in: Picchione, Smith, eds., Twentieth- Century Italian Poetry (Toronto, 1993), 104– 105. 82. Bohn, The Other Futurism (Toronto, 2004), 92. 83. Filippo Marinetti, Francsco Monarchi, Enrico Prampolini, Mino Somenzi, “Il manifesto futurista del cappello italiano,” Futurismo (5 March 1933); cited from “The Futurist Manifesto of the Italian Hat,” in: Stern, Against Fashion, 162– 63. 84. Marinetti et al., “The Futurist Manifesto of the Italian Hat,” 163. 85. Caroline Tisdall, Angelo Bozzolla, Futurism (London, 1975), 153, 157. 86. Richard Humphreys, Futurism (Cambridge, 1999), 20. 87. Simonetta Falasca- Zamponi, Fascist Spectacle (Berkeley, 2000), 23. 88. Volt, “Futurist Manifesto of Women’s Fashion,” 180. 89. Filippo Marinetti, “Beyond Communism” (1920), in R.W. Flint, ed., Marinetti, Selected Writings (New York, 1971), 155. 90. Marinetti, “Beyond Communism,” 155, 148, 150– 51. 91. See Virgilio Marchi, “Balla, El Futuristi” (Milan, 1987), 140; cited from Irina Costache, “Italian Futurism and the Decorative Arts,” Journal of Decoration and Propaganda Arts 20 (1994), 187. 92. Gabriela Belli, Depero Futurista: Rome- Paris- New York (Milan, 1999). 93. Stern, Against Fashion, 40. 94. Multiple photographs taken at one sitting counted as one picture; head shots omitted. Figures gathered by the author from Claudia Salaris, Marinetti: Arte e vita futurista (Rome, 1997), illustration plates between pp. 216– 17. 95. Stern, Against Fashion, 40. 96. Stern, Against Fashion, 32. 97. Rainer Wenreich, Kunst und Mode im 20. Jahrhundert (Weimar, 2003), 170. 98. Adam Arvidsson, Marketing Modernity (London, 2003), 42. 99. Paulicelli, Beyond the Black Shirt, 39. 100. Eugenia Paulicelli, “Fashion, the Politics of Style, and National Identity in Pre- Fascist and Fascist Italy,” in: Burman, Turbin, eds., Material Strategies (New York, 2003), 183. 290 Notes
101. Sofia Gnoli, La donna l’eleganza il fascismo (Catania, 2000), 26. 102. Lydia De Liguoro, Le battaglie della moda, 1919– 1933 (Rome, 1934), 8; cited from Sofia Gnoli, Un secolo di moda italiana (Rome, 2005), 46. 103. Jeffrey Schnapp, “The Fabric of Modern Times,” Critical Inquiry 24.1 (Fall 1997), 195. 104. Simonetta Falasca- Zamponi, “Why (not) Foucault? Reflections on Power, Fascism, and Aesthetics,” in: Friedland, Mohr, eds., Matters of Culture (Cambridge, 2004), 279. 105. See Gnoli, La donna l’eleganza il fascismo, 89– 117; Gnoli, Un secolo di moda italiana, 73– 93; Alessio Gagliardi, L’impossibile autarchia (Soveria Mannelli, 2006); Luciano Zani, Fascismo, autarchia, commercio estero (Bologne, 1988). 106. Fortunato Albanesi, Profili di un’opera e di un programma (Rome, 1938), 21. 107. Gnoli, La donna l’eleganza il fascismo, 55– 59. 108. Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism, 100. 109. Intially, products needed to be 35% Italian; the percentage subsequently rose to 50%. See Paulicelli, “Fashion, the Politics of Style, and National Identity,” 186. For a photograph of the mark, see Gnoli, La donna d’eleganza il fascism, 91. 110. Mario Peter, “Verso l’autarchia della moda,” L’informatore confidenziale della moda 131 (15 November 1937); Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism, 84. 111. Silvia Grandi, Alessandra Vaccari, Vistire il ventennio (Bologna, 2004), 1:83; Ivan Paris, Oggetti cuciti: l’abbigliamento pronto in Italia dal primo dopoguerra agli anni Settanta (Milan, 2006), 47– 48. 112. Russel King, The Industrial Geography of Italy (London, 1995), 143– 44; Victoria de Grazia, How Fascism Ruled Women: Italy (Berkeley, 1992), 109. 113. Schnapp, “The Fabric of Modern Times,” 243. 114. “General Survey of Italian Industries,” in: Tomaso Sillani, ed., Lo stato mus- soliniano e le realizzazioni del fascismo nella nazione (Rome, 1930), cited from the English translation What is Fascism and Why? (New York, 1931), 324. 115. What is Fascism and Why? 323– 24. 116. Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism, 102. 117. Karen Pinkus, Bodily Regimes: Advertising under Italian Fascism (Minneapolis, 1995), 213. 118. Tibor Berend, An Economic History of Twentieth- Century Europe (Cambridge, 2006), 109– 10. 119. Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism, 107, 101. 120. Leopoldina Fortunati, Elda Danese, Manuale di comunicazione, sociologia e cultura della moda (Rome, 2005), 3:105– 106; see also the corporate history The Story of Rayon (New York, 1929). 121. Victoria De Grazia, The Culture of Consent (Cambridge, 2002), 70. 122. Fausto Pitigliani, “The Development of Italian Cartels Under Fascism,” Journal of Political Economy 48.3 ( June 1940), 375– 400. 123. Alexander Findlay, Chemistry in the Service of Man (London, 1948), 358; “Dresses Made from Milk,” Mechanix Illustrated (December 1939), 74– 76. 124. Gnoli, Un secolo di moda italiana, 88; “Business: Lanital,” Time (6 December 1937). 125. Robert Kargon, Arthur Molella, Invented Edens: Techno- Cities of the Twentieth Century (Boston, 2008), 53– 55. Notes 291
126. Schnapp, “The Fabric of Modern Times,” 212. 127. Gnoli, Un secolo di moda italiana, 89. 128. Volt, “Futurist Manifesto of Women’s Fashion,” 161. 129. Filippo Marinetti, “Il poema di Torre Viscosa,” Parole in libertà futuriste (Milan, 1938); reprinted with minor changes as “Poesia simultanea dei canneti Arunda Donax.” See Cinzia Sartini Blum, The Other Modernism: F.T. Marinetti’s Futurist Fiction of Power (Berkeley, 1996), 200. 130. Filippo Marinetti, Il poema non umano dei tecnicismi (Milan, 1940); transla- tion from Schnapp, “The Fabric of Modern Times,” 208, 205. 131. Filippo Marinetti, “Poesia simultanea di un vestito di latte,” translation from Schnapp, “The Fabric of Modern Times,” 238; see also Pinkus, Bodily Regimes, 264. 132. “Whey Product Makes Cloth Resistant to Poison Gas,” Science News- Letter 35.13 (1 April 1939), 204. 133. Christopher Duggan, The Force of Destiny: A History of Italy since 1786 (Boston, 2008), 518. 134. Pinkus similarly described rayon as “a classless commodity, within the reach of every member of the body politic.” Pinkus, Bodily Regimes, 214. 135. Pinkus, Bodily Regimes, 223. 136. Paulicelli, Beyond the Black Shirt, 47. 137. White, Elsa Shiaparelli; see also Shiaparelli’s autobiography Shocking Life (New York, 1954). 138. Falasca- Zamponi, Fascist Spectacle, 103. 139. Desmond O’Connor, No Need to be Afraid: Italian Settlers in South Australia (Adelaide, 1996), 161. 140. Jenny Hartley, “Clothes and Uniform in the Theatre of Fascism,” in: Angela Smith, ed., Gender and Warfare in the Twentieth Century (Manchester, 2004), 105. 141. Falasca- Zamponi, Fascist Spectacle, 103– 104. 142. Hans Woller, Die Abrechnung mit dem Faschismus in Italien 1943 bis 1948 (Oldenbourg, 1996), 70. 143. Benito Mussolini, Scritti e discorsi di Benito Mussolini (Milan, 1934– 39), 5:110– 11; translation from Falasca- Zamponi, Fascist Spectacle, 101. 144. Falasca- Zamponi, Fascist Spectacle, 103. 145. Roger Engelmann, Provinzfaschismus in Italien (Ph.D. diss. Munich, 1990), 198. 146. Claudia Baldoli, Exporting Fascism (London, 2003), 47. 147. Cecil Eby, Hungary at War (University Park, 2007), 10; Robert Paxton, French Peasant Fascism (Oxford, 1997), 64– 65; Gabriel Sta˘nescu, Corneliu Zelea Codreanu s,i epoca sa: crestomat,ie (Norcross, GA, 2001), 70. 148. Mike Cronin, The Blueshirts and Irish Politics (Dublin, 1997), 38; Fearghal McGarry, Eoin O’Duffy (Oxford, 2005), 282. 149. Hans Wagner, Taschenwörterbuch des neuen Staates (Leipzig, 1934), 34; cited from Cornelia Schmitz- Berning, Vokabular des Nationalsozialismus (Berlin, 2000), 129. 150. “No ‘Brown’ Dress- suits,” Manchester Guardian (8 February 1934), Times (12 March 1934); cited from the Open Society Archive, “Testaments to the Holocaust. Documents of the Wiener Library on Microfiche,” Series 2, Reel 98. 151. Pinkus, Bodily Regimes,199. 152. Manfred Beller, Joep Leersen, Imagology (Amsterdam, 2007), 451. 292 Notes
153. Sammye Johnson, “Promoting Easy Sex without Genuine Intimacy,” in: Galician, Merskin, eds., Critical Thinking about Sex, Love and Romance in the Mass Media (Mahwah, 2007), 57. 154. Carey, “Letter IV,” 118, 116. 155. John Singleton, The World Textile Industry (London, 1997). 156. Richard Easterlin, Growth Triumphant (Ann Arbor, 1998), 22 157. Negly Harte, “The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century,” Textile History 22 (1991), 290; Jeff Williamson, Did British Capitalism Breed Inequality? (London, 2006), 221. 158. Paul Ransome, Work, Consumption and Culture (London, 2005), 82; Denis Down, ed., Family Spending (London, 2002), 37. 159. W.J. Ashley, The Progress of the German Working Classes (London, 1904), 29. 160. Glatzer, Hondrich, Noll, Stiehr, Wörndl, eds., Recent Social Trends in West Germany (Montreal, 1992), 401; Michael Wildt, “Continuities and Discontinuities of Consumer Mentality in West Germany in the 1950s,” in: Bessel, Schumann, eds., Life after Death (Cambridge, 2003), 224. 161. Michel Forsé, Jean- Pierre Jaslin, Recent Social Trends in France (Montreal, 2004), 267. 162. Diane Crane, Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing (Chicago, 2001), 79; Nicolas Herpin, “L’habillement: une dépense sur le déclin,” Économie et Statistique 192 (October 1982), 73. 163. Julie Hessler, A Social History of Soviet Trade (Princeton, 2004), 46, 229; Gur Ofer, Aaron Vinokur, The Soviet Household under the Old Regime (Cambridge, 1992), 354. 164. Nikolai Genov, Anna Krasteva, Recent Social Trends in Bulgaria (Montreal, 2001), 469. 165. Scholars have not reached any consensus as to starting and end dates for an “age of nationalism,” see Norman Rich, The Age of Nationalism and Reform, 1850– 90 (New York, 1970); Denis de Rougemont, “The Era of Nationalism: From Mazzini to Georges Sorel ( 1848– 1914),” in: The Idea of Europe (London, 1966), 251– 336; Boyd Shafer, “The Age of Nationalism, 1815– 1955,” in: Nationalism: Myth and Reality (New York, 1955) 153– 212; John McKay, Bennett Hill, John Buckler, “The Age of Nationalism, 1850– 1914,” A History of Western Society (Boston, 1995), 2:831– 860; Georg von Rauch, Russland im Zeitalter des Nationalismus und Imperialismus, 1856– 1917 (Munich, 1961). 166. Weber, Peasants into Frenchmen, 98. 167. Alexander Maxwell, “National Endogamy and Double Standards: Sexuality and Nationalism in East- Central Europe during the 19th Century,” Journal of Social History 41.2 (December 2007), 413– 33. 168. David Gilmore, Misogyny: The Male Malady (Philadelphia, 2001), 9; Jack Holland, Misogyny: The World’s Oldest Prejudice (New York, 2006). 169. Sewell, “Le citoyen/la citoyenne,” 2:105– 23. 170. Marlene LeGates, In Their Time: A History of Feminism (London, 2001), 191. 171. Richard Evans, The Feminists: Women’s Emancipation Movements in Europe, America, and Australasia (London, 1977), 24. Index
Abdullah, Yenis¸ehirili 55 Almerode 34 Abdülmecid I (of Turkey) 143 Alsace 125, 155 Abergavenny 163–67 Amalia (of Greece) 172 Ab Ithel 164–65 Amar, Jean-Baptiste-André 132 About, Edmond 175 ambassadors, see diplomats absolutism 7, 36, 41–42, 44, 59–63, Amedeo VIII (of Savoy) 47, 52 68, 79–81, 84, 89, 91–92, 94–96, American Revolution 44, 68, 123 98, 104, 114, 119–21, 124, 136, American travelers 141, 197 140–2, 150, 160, 177, 187, Amis-de-la-Patrie 131 206, 233 Ansted, David 198, 200 Academia d’Italia 221 Amsterdam 5, 123–24, 135 Acerbi 85 Anatolia 53, 129, 142, 149 Adami, Heinrich 37 Andalusia 169 Adams, David 109 Anderson, Benedict 2–4, 84, 97 Aegean Islands 176 András II (of Hungary) 53 Africa 141 Ansted, David 198–99 Age of Nationalism 231 Anti-Crinoline League 17 Age of Reason, 55, 95; see also Anti-Crinoline Movement 17 Enlightenment anti-fashion 6–7, 9–25, 29–30, 33, Age of Revolutions 4, 7, 41, 43, 45, 35, 38, 43–44, 81, 117, 179, 182, 59, 110, 121, 123, 125, 151, 154, 185, 211, 235 228, 230–33; see also American anti-neutral clothing 219 Revolution, Belgian Revolt, Dutch Antoinette, Marie 5, 44, 104, 210 Revolt, French Revolution, Greek Antwerp 208 Revolution, Hungarian Revolution, Antwort auf verschiedene Vorschläge Irish Rebellion, November wegen einer Kleiderordnung 82 Uprising, Sicilian Revolution, 1848 Arab clothing styles 104, 119, 160 Revolution Arad 197 Agramer Politische Zeitung 18 Aragon 52–53 Aikin-Barbauld, Anna 38–39, 184 Aragona, Tullia d’ 51 Aiud 200 aristocrats, aristocracy 12, 25–26, Albanese, Fortunato 223 36, 44–45, 47, 57–60, 72, 81–84, Albania 6, 170–1, 175–6 89–90, 93, 101–102, 104, 108, Aleko Pas¸a see Bogoridi, Aleksand˘ur 115–16, 154–55, 164, 167, 177, Aleksandr III (of Russia) 158 179, 190, 193, 200, 203–204, 206, Aleksei Mikhailovich (of Russia), 59 210, 231, 236; see also nobles, Alexander VI (pope) 52 nobility Alkmaar 123 arm bands 84, 89 Alla città d’Italia 208 Armansperg, Josef 172 Allgemeine deutsche Armenians 104, 119, 142–43, 160 Frauenzeitung 78, 188 Armor 63 Allgemeine Moden-Zeitung 9, 24, 27, Arndt, Ernst Moritz 86, 111–13, 36, 188–90 115, 117, 119, 154, 232–33
293 294 Index
Arnold, Arthur 176 Bavaria 74, 113–14, 136–37, 139–40, Arouet, François-Marie see Voltaire 158, 172–74, 223 Arrow Cross Party (Nyilaskeresztes Bavarian Academy of Sciences 74 Párt) 227 B.C. (pseudonym) 183 Artois, Count 125 Beau Garcon (pseudonym) 14 Arvidsson, Adam 223 Beauvoir, Simone de 22 Asakir-i Mansure-i Muhammediye, Bede, Cuthbert (pseudonym) 140–41 see Bradley, Edward Aspin, Jehoshaphat 157 Beef-steak club 93 Astrakhan 157 Belgian Revolt 139 Atatürk 148–50, 152 Belgium 125, 139, 140, 211 Atıf, Iskilipli˙ Mehmet 149 Belgrade 144 Au Printemps 208 Belley, Jean-Baptiste 106 Augsburg 51 belts 50, 85 August II (of Saxony and Bendrix, Regina 159–60 Poland) 64, 66 Benhamou, Reed 39 August III (of Saxony) 66 Bereg agreement 53 Augustus the Strong, see August II Berend, Ivan 204 Aureville, Jules Barbey d’ 27 Bergamo 51 Ausgleich 201 Berlant, Lauren 118 Auslander, Leora 27 Berlin 5, 66, 71, 88, 115, 121, 181, Austria (Habsburg Empire) 8, 13, 189, 190, 13–214; Treaty of, 146 25, 36, 40, 44, 60, 66–67, 73, 90, Berliner Nachrichten 88 115, 123, 137, 144, 157, 172, 193, Berlioz, Hector 194 195–99, 202–203, 209–10, 212–17, Bern 63 219, 231 Berner Chronik 63 Aux villes d’Italie, see Alla città d’Italia Bertin, Rose 210 Athens 5, 174–76, 231 Bertuch, Friedrich 77, 98–99, 235 Ayasofya 229 Betskoi, Ivan 72 Ayrenhoff, Cornelius von 40–41 Bey, Rıfat 149 A.Z. (pseudonym) 58, 77 Bienaimé, Pierre-Théodore Az Üstökös 17 104–105, 232 Birmingham 40 Bacon, Thomas 69 Björnsdóttir, Inga 169 Baden 123 Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine 25 Balaton 155, 229 Black shirt (camicie nere) 226–27 Balkan Wars 147 Blaszczyk, Regina 211 Ball of Victims 128 Blom, Ida 169 Balla, Giacomo 218–19, 222 bloomers 10–12, 210 Ballin, Ada 11 Bobergh, Otto 209 Baltic 87 Boetia 50 Barcelona 51 Bogatyrev, Petr 153 Basedow, Johann 72 Bogoridi, Aleksand˘ur 146–47 Bastille 106, 125, 181 Bogucka, Maria 23 Batavian Republic 135 Bohemia, see Czech lands Batenberg, Aleksand˘ur 146 Bon Marché 208 Battaglie della moda, Le 223 Bonn 117 Battyányi, Kázmér 193 bonnets (ladies’) 25, 78, 162, 181, Baudelaire, Charles 26 184–85 Index 295 bonnet rouge (red cap, cap of liberty) Büsch, Otto 66 7, 69, 103, 121, 127, 129–34, 140, Buda, see Budapest 143, 150–51, 230, 233–34 Budapest (including Buda and Bonneval, Claude Alexandre de 53 Pest) 5, 52, 193–94, 196–97, 199, Book of Costume, The 5 201, 208 boots 21, 33, 56, 112, 149, 199, Bulgaria 6, 8, 14, 17, 23, 143, 200, 226 145–48, 155, 230, 234 Böttger, Heinrich 75 Bunsen, Josias 161 Boucicaut, Aristide 207 Bursa 141 Bourbon, Louise 15, 17 buttons 48, 69, 74–75, 185 Bourdieu, Pierre 206 Byron, Lord 171 Bourdon, Léonard 126 Bourgeois, Bourgeoisie 12, 45, 47, caftans 59, 72 82–83, 88–89, 91, 93–94, 98, 104, Camarthen 166 108, 114, 154, 155, 177, 190, 200, Cambrian Archaeological 206, 223; see also middle classes Association 165 boyars 60–61; see also aristocrats, Cambrian Costumes dedicated to the aristocracy Nobility and Gentry of Wales Bozzolla, Angelo 221 161, 170 Brace, Charles 197, 201 Cambrian Journal 163–64, 166–67, Bradfield, Henry 170 182 Bradley, Edward 21, 37, 42–43 Cambridge, Richard Owen 34 braid 74, 89, 91, 101, 191; Camicie nere 226–227 see also embroidery Campomanes, Pedro Rodríguez de Brailsford, Henry 145 94 breasts (female) 168, 210 Canary Islands 53 Bretons 104, 157 Cangiullo, Francesco 219 Britain, see Great Britain capes 51–52, 156 British travelers 48, 61, 65, 67, Capellen, Joan Derk van der 123 86–87, 93, 101, 109, 124–26, 128, Captain of Köpenick 66 134, 138, 141–44, 156–57, 170–71, Cardiff 5, 162 174–76, 199–200, 203, 209 Carey, Matthew 99–100, 114–15, British Union of Fascists 227 118, 154, 229, 232–34 Brittany 104, 157 Carlyle, Thomas 14 brocade 47 Caron, August 27 brotherhood 43–45, 91, 97, 112, case study approach 4, 5, 8, 81–82, 118–19, 125, 129, 132, 134, 136, 160, 170, 182 151, 169–70, 192, 220, 234 Castell, I.F. 13 Brown, John 93 Castellan, Antoine 48 Brubaker, Rogers 2, 119 catalogues 208; at the World’s Brücke, Ernst 212 Fair 175–76 Brückenau 74–75 Cathars 53 Brummell, George “Beau” 26 Catherine the Great, Brummett, Palmira 23 see Yekaterina II Brussels 216, 229 Cervenaˇ kapa 50, 144–45 Buch, Leopold von 157 Chanel, Coco 211 buckles 40, 48, 181, 185 Chaplin, Betty 187 Bulgaria 6, 8, 14, 17, 23, 143, Chapman, Malcom 157 145–48, 155, 230, 234 Charles VI (of France) 51 296 Index
Charles X (of France) see Artois, Count 127; in Greece 122, 139–40; in Charlotta, Hedvig Elisabet 93 Hungary 196; in Ireland 69, Charukovsky, Akim 20 122; in Italy 126, 134–36, 140; Châteauvieux regiment 130, 151 in the Netherlands 122–24, Chaumette, Pierre 131, 133 134–35, 139–40; in Poland 123, Chehabi, Houchang 152 134, 139–40; in Portugal 123; in Cherokee Club 73–74 Sicily 138–39; in Spain 123, 134, Chicago 15 136; in Sweden 84, 123; in the child-rearing 22–23, 103, 184, 193, United States 123 204–205 Cockade War 132 children’s clothing 88, 103, 125, Coiffure à la Belle Poule 101 145, 148, 201, 204, 213 collars 19–20, 66, 72, 75, 85, 99, China 120 112, 116, 227 Chouannerie 126 Collier, Jane 169 Christian VII (of Denmark) 44 Cologne (town) 51 Church, Richard 138 colonies, overseas 48–49, 53, 106, Cinege, Ferenc 194 122, 135, 221 cinema 66, 204, 218 Comaroff, Jean 169 Circassia 50 Committee for Public Safety 106 Cisalpine Republic 135 Comité Révolutionnaire 135 citizenship 2, 95, 102–103, 128–34, Comités de défense paysanne 227 143, 151, 234, 236 communism 206, 222, 230 civil society 3, 205, 233 Communist Manifesto 206 class, social 4, 25, 47, 76, 83, 88, 95, Como 226 97, 98, 104, 112, 115–16, 119–21, Confino, Alon 160 125, 140–41, 151, 154–57, 163, 168, Connecticut 100 171, 177, 194, 206, 214, 222, 226, Constitutional Convention 99 230, 232–33; see also Estate, middle constitutionalism 42; in Classes, working class France 108, 128–30; in Great Clement VII (pope) 52 Britain 41, 181, 183–88; in clergy: see Islamic clergy, pastors, Greece 174–75; in Naples 138; priests in Sweden 84; in the United Club Révolutionnaire des Arts 105 States 99 clubs 45, 73–74, 93, 105, 118, consumption 47–48, 160, 162, 188, 130–32; see also calons 190, 194, 196, 204–205, 207, 215, coats (jackets)13, 25, 48, 50, 60–61, 222, 230; conspicuous 25, 101 63, 65, 69, 71, 75, 85, 90, 99, 101, Copenhagen 208 105–106, 109, 113–14, 120, 132, Corfu 229 140, 149, 171–72, 176, 182, 186, Correo de Madrid 91 191, 198–202, 204, 209, 219–20, Corrierre padano 225 222; see also Dolmány, Loden coat, corsets 21–22, 38–39, 42, 168, Zhongshan jacket 210–11, 216 coats of arms 125, 137, 144 Corset Defended, The 22 Cockade 7, 73, 83, 103, 120–30, Corsica 126 132–41, 143, 150–51, 230, 233; in Cosmopolitan 229 Austria 123, 137; in Bavaria 136–37, Cost of Caergwyn, The 162–63 139; in France 122–30, 132–38, 140, Costume, Manners and Peculiarities of 151; in Germany 123, 125–26, Different Inhabitants of the Globe, 134–38, 140; in Great Britain 123, The 158 Index 297
Costume françoise 127, 150, 160, Depero, Fortunato 217, 222 167, 230 De Philanthrope 123 cotton 162, 183, 188, 195, 200 Dessau 72, 89 Coulston, Jon 62–63 Deutsche Kunst und Dekoration 213 Cowbridge 166 diamonds 50, 141, 200 Crali Tullio 222 Diderot, Denis 36 Crawford, Julie 19 diplomats (ambassadors) 60–61, 67, Crete 176 87, 106, 125–28, 146, 161, 163, Crimea 157 171–72, 228 crinoline 10, 17–18, 20 Directory, the 108–109, 128–29 Croatia 5, 144–45, 203 Díszmagyar costume 199–204, 231 Crouzet, François 187 Divatcsarnok 198, 204 Cruikshank, Robert 30 Divat Salon 204 Csákó 199 diversity, ethnic 73, 134, 145, 159, Culture of Clothing, The 4 170, 212 C. von C. (pseudonym) 77 diversity, religious 55 Cymreigyddion 161 Dohm, Hedwig 21 Czech lands 5, 14, 19, 30, 34, 36, Dolan, Therese 210 42, 50, 117, 182, 193 Dolmány 156, 199, 203 Czechoslovakia 15, 178 Donnell, Sidney 25 Doran, John 35 Daileader, Philip 52 Douai 125 Dalmatia 50, 145 Dresden 64 Damascus 55, 69 Dubaton 131 Damsholt, Tine 87 Dublin 5, 68–71, 73 dandies 13–14, 26–27, 30–31, 33, 37, Dublin Evening Post 71 89, 93, 128, 170, 191 Dudink, Stefan 151 Danilo I (of Montenegro) 144 Duggan, Christopher 226 Danube 115, 144, 200 D˚um Cernéˇ Matky Boží 208 Darmstadt 213 Düsseldorf 218 Davenport Millia 5 Dutch East India Company 48 David, Jacques-Louis 105–109, 133, Dutch Revolt 123–24 150, 154, 167 Davidson, Neil 159 earrings 181 Davis, Fred 21 Edinburgh 25 Death of Marat (painting) 105 Edirne 145 Debelleyme, Louis 71 Edward I (of England) 52 Déclaration des droits de la Femme et de Edward III (of England) 48 la Citoyenne 132 Edward VI (of England) 50 Delacroix, Jacques-Vincent 124 Edward VII (of Great Britain) 216 Delatre, Louis 143 Edwards, Charles 42 Delbourg-Delphis Marylène 210 egalitarianism 3, 7, 43, 72, 95, 97, Democracy 7, 42, 81, 95–97, 99–100, 100, 102, 106, 110–11, 119–20, 134, 104–106, 110, 115, 117–23, 126, 136, 142–43, 150–51, 167, 176, 215, 134, 150, 154, 160, 166, 177, 187, 222, 226, 232–34 232–33, 236 Egypt 134 Denmark 47, 87, 156, 192 1848 Revolution, 188, 192, 196, 201, Denon, Vivant 106 206, 223, 235–36 department stores 207–208 Eisenbart, Lisolette 46 298 Index
Eisteddfod 162–68, 177, 231 Evzone 176, 231 Elberfeld 190 Erzerum 142 El duende especulativo 19, 27 El Greco 178 Fachblatt der Genossenschaft der Elisabeth (of Austria) 201, 209 Kleidermacher Wiens 213 Elisabeth I (of England) 47 Fährichs, Antonín 42 Ellˉenikon Paratˉerˉetˉen 175 Falke, Jakob 47 embroidery 50, 104, 110, 114, Fani-Ciotti, Vincenzo, see Volt 126, 129, 156, 172, 175–77, 196, fascism: in France 181, 227; in 199–201, 204, 213; as a sign of Germany 51, 118, 176, 181, 212, rank 72, 83, 91, 106, 141 227–28; in Great Britain 227; Empire of Fashion 29, 37, 39–42, 74, in Hungary 203, 227; in 184; see also Queen Fashion Ireland 227; in Italy 8, 176, Engels, Friedrich 110 220–21, 223–28; in Romania 227 England 8, 10–11, 13–14, 19–20, 30, fashion dolls 19, 90, 94 34, 38, 40–41, 47–48, 50, 52, 57, fashion magazines 9, 15, 24, 33–34, 63–64, 72, 76, 93, 123, 157, 159, 114, 181, 188, 190, 193–94, 198, 162, 170, 172, 181–88, 192–94, 197, 204, 223; invention of 101, see 199, 204, 208–209, 235; see also also Allgemeine Moden-Zeitung, Great Britain Divatcsarnok, Journal des Luxus Enlightenment 1, 4, 20, 36, 44–45, und der Moden, Lidel, Magazine des 57–59, 62, 70, 73, 76, 78–84, 92, modes, Magyar divatfutár, Marie 95–96, 102, 110, 119–20, 122, 151, Claire, Modní noviny, Pesti Divatlap, 160, 167, 169, 178–80, 230, 232–35 Wiener Modezeitung English clothing styles 5, 10, 30, fathers, fatherhood 23, 33, 43–44, 61–62, 76, 113, 122, 157, 162, 46, 48–49, 76, 81–82, 88, 91, 98, 182–88, 229 114, 119, 209; see also patriarchy English language 5–6, 44, 60, 66, fatherland 98, 111, 113–15, 131, 103, 122, 126, 155, 157, 165, 199, 136, 174, 190, 214 211, 224 Faust, Christophe Berhard 103 Ente Nazionale della Moda feathers 105, 112, 130, 156, 191, 199 (ENM) 223–24 Federazione nazionale fascista Ente Serico Nazionale 224 dell’abbigliamento 224 Ente Tessile Nazionale 224 Felstiner, Mary 44 epaulettes 134, 191 feminism 10–12, 21–23, 43–44, 132, Erdmann, Johann 157 134, 151, 168–69, 192, 210–11; lack Eschassériaux, Joseph 128–29 of in sartorial nationalism 92, 118, Estournelles, Paul Henri d’ 147 205, 235–36 Eszterházy, Prince 200 Fernando VII (of Spain) 25, 136 estate, social 2, 46–48, 56–57, 72, 82, feudalism 47, 58, 83, 114, 232 88, 101–102, 106, 110, 113, 115–17, fez 7–8, 121–22, 140–51, 170, 175, 119–21, 143, 150, 154, 167, 203, 231, 233–34; ranked 142, 151; 206, 215, 233–34; see also aristocracy, removal as a sign of anti-Ottoman bourgeoisie, peasantry feeling 145–49 Estates General 101 Fidora, Alma 217 Ethiopia 221, 224 Figaro, Le 217 Evans, Richard 236 Fischer, Wolfgang 213 Evans, Robert 195 Flanders 5 Evelyn, John 24 Fleischer, Hagen 176 Index 299
Fliegelman, Jay 43–44 French travelers 143, 174, 181, Floh, Der 14–15 194, 199 Flor, Ferdinand 114 Frenk Mukallitligi˘ ve Sapka¸ 149 Florence 13, 42, 50, 53 Frevert, Ute 192 Floridablanca, conde de 93, 235 Friedrich II (of Prussia) 6, 66–67 Foucault, Michel 70 Friedrich II Hohenstaufen 51 Foustanela 160, 170–77, 231, 233 Friedrich Wilhelm I (of Prussia) 65–67, Flugel, John Carl 4 69, 174 Florence 13, 42, 50, 53 Friedrich Wilhelm III (of Prussia) 26, Foglar, Ludwig 14, 191–92, 212 81, 138 folk costume 8, 20, 153–79, 203, frock coats 75, 114, 182, 191, 206, 213, 228, 231, 233–34 198, 209 Folnesics, Johann Ludwig 24 “Futurisme, Le” (futurist manifesto) fops, see dandies 217 Foulloug 157 futurists 10, 217–22, 225–26, 231, Fowler, Orson 22 233–35 France 3–5, 7–8, 22–23, 30, 35, 41–42, 47, 51–53, 56, 59, 63–64, Geffroy, Auguste 85 68–69, 87, 89, 100–110, 118–19, Gagelin 209 112, 121–38, 140, 151, 154–57, 166, Gailey, Alan 163 170, 172, 180–81, 208–10, 211–12, Garda de fier 227 215, 226–27, 232, 234 gaiters 60 Francis I (of France) 105, 109 Garibaldi, Giuseppe 226 Franco-Prussian War 209 Garrau, Pierre-Anselme 129 Frankfurt / Main 47, 229 Gawthrop, Richard 65 Frankfurt / Oder 78 Gazzetta Toscana 123 Franz-Joseph (of Austria) 158, gems (jewels) 19, 38, 49, 141; see 201–202 also diamonds fraternité 97, 119, 125, 132; see also gender 3–4, 7, 8, 18, 22–23, 25, brotherhood 27–28, 42, 43–45, 76, 80–81, 96, Frederick the Great, see Friedrich II 105, 111, 117–21, 125, 128–29, Frederike S. (pseudonym) 98–99 131–33, 151, 155, 157, 163, 167, Freeman, John 26, 29 170, 177, 188, 192–93, 205, 210–11, Freemasonry 165–66 214–15, 222, 226, 228, 232, Freifeld, Alice 197 234–36 French Revolution 3–4, 7, 44, 73, General Advertiser 183 80–81, 91, 95, 97, 99–100, 102–10, genius 8, 108, 184, 211, 221, 223 116, 118, 121, 124–26, 130–35, Gentleman: revue moderního muže 30 139–40, 143, 153, 181, 185, 188, Gentleman’s Magazine 24, 39–40, 199, 227, 230, 233, 235; see also 153, 185 Age of Revolutions gentry, see nobles, nobility French clothing styles 61–63, 65–69, George IV (of Great Britain) 177 75, 99, 101–102, 106, 109–10, 113, German clothing styles 5, 57, 76, 117, 126–27, 138, 151, 155, 171, 97–99, 110–19, 160, 188–92, 212, 178, 181–82, 189, 193, 210, 229; 215, 229, 235; in France 104, 134; see also Parisian fashion in Hungary 201–204, in Russia, French language 6, 37, 49, 55, 75, 59, 61–62; elsewhere in Eastern 103, 108, 122, 129–30, 155, 157, Europe 57, 182 217, 223 German Customs Union 188 300 Index
German language 5–6, 55, 86, 93, Greek language 18, 51, 146 103, 108, 113, 118–19, 212 Greek revolution 170–71, 176 German travelers (including Austrian Greeks, Phanariote 142 Germans) 86, 125–26, 161, 166, Greenfeld, Benjamin 15–16 174–75, 203 Grégoire, Henri 96, 108 Germany 4, 5, 7–8, 15, 22, 46–47, Gregory IX (pope) 51 51–52, 57, 70–78, 82, 84–85, 88–89, Grenville, George 174 93, 96–99, 103–104, 110–19, 123, Grévin, Alfred 20 136–38, 154, 160, 172, 181–82, Guillemardet, Ferdinand 106 188–92, 194, 196–97, 204, 208, 212, Gustav I Vasa (of Sweden) 85 215, 227–230, 235; see also Austria, Gustav II Adolf (of Sweden) 85 Baden, Bavaria, Hanover, Hesse, Gustaf III (of Sweden) 84–91, 93–94, Holy Roman Empire, Mecklenburg, 104–105, 109, 112, 118–19, 126, Prussia, Saxony, Württemburg 150, 154, 160, 167, 174, 232–33 Gershov, Ivan 147 Guðmundsson, Sigurður 168, Ghent 208 177–78 Giessen 117 Guyana 135 Gillberg, Jacob 85 Gilbert, David 5 Haarlem 134 Gilmore, David 235 Habit rouge 110 Giovanna I (of Naples) 50 Habsburg Empire, see Austria, Croatia, Girardin, Émile 42 Czech Lands, Hungary, Transylvania Glemzaite, Mikalina 168 Hagemann, Karen 151 Goddess Fashion 7, 33–36, 43 Hague, the 124 Godwin, E.W. 10 Haidt, Rebecca 23 Golb Norman 52 hair (hairdressing, hairstyle) 5, gold 35, 48, 75, 181, 197, 210; 23–24, 50, 61, 78, 89, 128, 132 braid, brocade or embroidery, 47, Haiti 48, 104, 106, 119, 160 66, 72, 74, 89, 101, 142, 156, 172, Hakkı, Ismail˙ 148 177, 199; fabric, 85, 102; gold Hall, Augusta, see Lady Llanover medal 220 Hamburg 73–74, 140, 208 Goodrum, Alison 117 Hanau 19 Gorsedd 165–66 Hanover 123, 138 Göteborg 86 Hansa, the 114 Gotha 117, 119 Hansemann, David 71 Göttingen 73, 87, 117 harems 36, 44 Gouge, Olympe de 132 Hargreaves-Mawdsley, W.N. 4 Goya, Francisco 106 Harrods 208 Grand Bazar d’Anvers 208 Hassenfratz, Jean-Henri 105 Great Britain 12, 19, 21–22, 25, 64, Hastings, Adrian 118 67, 69–71, 73, 123, 159, 162–63, hats (caps, headgear) 13, 15, 17, 19, 168, 182–84, 187–88, 195, 208, 25, 41, 48–53, 55, 61, 68–69, 71, 227, 229; see also England, Ireland, 75–76, 102, 105, 112, 114, 121–22, Scotland, Wales 125–26, 129–36, 140–52, 156, 161, Great Depression 223–24 167, 178, 181–82, 185, 191, 199, Greece 8, 50, 122, 139, 140, 147, 201, 203, 221, 233–34; see also bon- 170–77, 203 net rouge, Cervenaˇ kapa, Csákó, Fez, Greek clothing styles 50, 55, 104, Helmet, Judenhut, Kaplak, Kızılba¸s, 109, 119, 142, 144, 160, 171–77, 203 liberty hat, top hats, turbans Index 301
Haute couture 8, 202, 207, 209–12, Hungarian clothing styles 5, 61–62, 217, 228 193–204, 231 Hawes, Elizabeth 211 Hungarian language 6, 199, 204 Hawes, Harriet Boyd 176 Hungarian Revolution 193, 195–197, Haynau, Julius 197, 201 201, 235 Hébert, Jacques-René 102 Hungarian travelers 178 Hedemarken 157 Hungary 5, 8, 17, 45, 52–53, 182, Heidelberg 117 192–205, 223, 227, 231, 235–36 Helmet 71 Hunt, Leigh 13 Helsinki 86 Hunt, Lynn 44, 102, 106, 108 Helvetic Republic 135 Hurlock, Elizabeth 93 “Henry IV’s Hunt” (play) 85 Hüsrev, Mehmed 141 hermaphrodites 24, 115, 191 Hen, Llywarch 165 Ibizia 229 Herbst, František 208 Ideen zur Philosophie der Geschichte der Herder, Johann Gottfried 154, 161 Menschheit 154–55 Herefordshire 45 Iffland, August 126 Heroic Elegies and Other pieces of “Il Poema de Torre Viscosa” 255 Llywarç Hen 165 Il vestito antineutrale 219 Hesse 19, 123 Illyrian movement 144–45 Heuer, Jennifer 129 “Imagined Community” 2, 84 Hettner, Hermann 172 Incroyables 128, 134 Hickling, Charles 9 Inebolu˙ 149 hijab 149, 151 Inglis, Henry 157 History of Anti-Semitism 55 Innocent III (pope) 51 History of Legal Dress in Europe 5 Inquisition: French 53; Spanish Hoffmann, Josef 213 53–55 Hoganson, Kristen 157 Instituto Artistico Nazionale per la Hood, Edwin Paxton 35 Moda Italiana 223 Hoogvorst, Emmanuel van de intelligentsia, intellectuals 154–55, Linden d’ 139 216 Holland, see Netherlands Intemperance and Tight-lacing 22 Hollander, Anne 9 Iolo Morganwg (pseudonym) Hollywood 223 165–168 Holy Roman Empire 99, 123, 137; Iceland 6, 168–169, 177 see also Germany Ireland 34–35, 50, 57, 68–70, Holzer, Simon 208 73–74, 86, 99, 122, 127, 134, Honder˝u 194, 196, 234 174, 182, 186, 227; see also Honi Védegylet, see Védegylet Great Britain Horn, Marilyn 4 Irish clothing styles 57, 69–70, 182 House of Lords 25 Irish Rebellion 69 Howitt, Mary 162 Iron Guard (Romania) 227 Humbaracı, Ahmet 53 Isabey, Jean-Baptiste 104 humiliation 13, 51–52, 56, 66, 90, Islam 49, 53, 55–56, 142, 144–45, 117, 126, 173, 218; see also 147–49 shame Islamic clergy 49, 55, 143, 149 Humphreys, Richard 221 Istanbul 5, 142–43, 146 Hundert, Gershon 49 Italian language 134, 217, 223 Hungarian Academy of Sciences 195 Italian travelers 86 302 Index
Italy 8, 10, 19, 23, 33, 46–47, 49, 56, Karl Eugen (of Württemburg) 72 87, 89, 93, 134–135, 137, 140, 176, Karlschule 72 198, 208, 217–28, 231, 234–35; see Károlyi, Ede 198 also Naples, Sicily, Venice Károly, Karolina 194 Izmir 143 Karr, Alphonse 20 Karstadt, Rudolf 208 Jack Modish (pseudonym) 184–85 Keller, Heinrich 89–90, 92, 94–95, jackets, see coats 112, 117, 119–20, 154, 160, 228, Jacobins 45, 100, 102–105, 108–109, 232–33 118, 122, 127–34, 150–51, 160, 166, Kemal, Mustafa see Atatürk 181, 222, 230, 232–33, 235 Kileman Adolphe 208 Jahar, Frederic 132 kilts 103, 156, 159–60, 169, 170, Jamaica 48 172, 176–77; see also Foustanela Japan 157 Killerby, Catherine Kovesi 49 Jean II (of France) 52 Kind der Liebe, Das 126 Jena 117, 125 King Fashion 42–43; see also Queen Jerusalem 93 Fashion jewels, see gems King of Fashion 211 jewelry 48, 76, 112, 181, 191; Kitts, Sally Ann 92 see also diamonds, gems Kivelson, Valiere 59 Jews 3, 50–51, 55–56; in Kızılba¸s 55 Austria 20, 182; in England 52; Klenze, Leo von 174 in France 51–52; in Germany 51; Klephts 170–171 in Hungary 52–53, 195–96; Klimt, Gustav 213 in Italy 51–53, 56, 83; in Kliuchevsky, Vasily 61 Lithuania 49; in the Ottoman knights 12, 47, 63, 114 Empire 53, 142–43, 145; in Knights of the Sword 63 Poland 50, 52; in Russia 157; in Knights Templars 63 Spain 51–53 Knox, Vicesimus 36, 41 Johnson, Samuel 76–77 Koch, Alexander 213 Johnson, James 102 Kokarde, Die 126 Jön Türkler 148 Kokoschka, Oskar 213 Jones, Dafydd 17 Komlos, John 195 Jones, Jennifer 19, 181 Kopáˇc, František 30 Journal de la mode et du gout 102 Köpenick 67 Journal des Dames et des Modes 35 Koprivshititsa 145 Journal des Luxus und der Moden 27, Korb, Johann Georg 60 29, 34, 36–37, 40, 76–78, 81, 97–98, Kosovo 155 117, 181 Kossuth Lajos 193, 195–96, 204 Journal des tailleurs 156 Kotor 144 Judenhut 52 Kotzebue, August von 125–26 Juliane Marie (of Denmark) 44 Központi Áruház 208 Junta des Dames 94, 236 Kraków 50 Krauss, Werner 92 Kalergis, Dimitros 174 Kremlin 229 Kalpak 140, 142, 146–47, 234; in Kretschmann, K.F. 29 Hungary 199 Kürti, László 203 Kapodistrias, Ioannis 171 Kvaternik, Eugen 203 Karelia 24 Krylov, Ivan 30 Index 303 lace 47, 66, 101, 116, 188, 194, 200 Louvre 229 Ladies’ Companion 184 Lynn, John 64 Lamartine, Alphonse de 130 Lyon 101, 110, 126 Lampe, John 144 Lanital 225–26, 228 Macaroni club (London) 93 lapels 105–106, 228 Maccaroni, Anna (pseudonym) 93 Large Hadron Collider 229 Macdonald, Myra 10 Lateran Council 51 Macedonia 145, 147 Latin America 48, 53, 67, 122, 135, Madame de la Santé (pseudonym) 22 157, 209 Madame P. (pseudonym) 41 Latvia 157 Madeira 67 LeGates, Marlene 236 Madrid 5, 19–20, 27, 91, 94 Leipzig 5, 24, 97–98, 189–90 Magazine des modes 156, 181 Leipzig Author 97–100, 110, 112–13, Magasin du Nord 208 115, 118, 232–33 Magazin für die Literatur des Lenin, Vladimir 222 Auslandes 121 Lenormant, François 176 Magdeburg 81 Le Sueur, Pierre-Etienne 104 Magyar divat 204 Letzter, Jacqueline 151 Magyar divatfutár 198 Levant, the 105 Mahmut II (of Turkey) 140–44, Lewis, Elizabeth 94 148–49 Liberation War (Befreiungskrieg) 110, Maison Universelle 208 137 Maison Worth 209 liberty hat 105–106, 109, 130; see Mameluks 134 also bonnet rouge Manfesto futurista del cappello Leicester, Earl of 12 italiano 221 Lidel 223–24 Manifesto futurista del vestito da Lietuviu Moteru Tautiniai 168 uomo 218 Liguoro, Lydia De 223 Mantua 51 Lincoln 187 Maria Theresia (of Austria) 44, 214 Lithuania 49–50, 168 Maria I (of Portugal) 44 livery 64, 66, 73, 80, 125 Marie Claire 15 Livonia 57, 125 Marinov, Pet˘ur 147–148 Llangollen 164–66 March on Rome 220 Llanover, Lady 161–64, 166–68, 170, Mari peninsula 173 177–78, 236 Marinetti, Filippo 217–22, 225–26 Lloyd, Robert 35 Marseillaise 127 Loden coat 219–20 Marshall, G.W. 176 Löher, Franz 203 Marshall and Snellgove 208 London 4–5, 17, 22, 26, 39, 71, 73, Marx, Karl 206, 222 91, 146, 155–56, 161, 162, 165, Massachusetts 100 172, 175–76, 181, 182–85, 187, 189, masturbation 103 197, 208–209, 216, 229 Mathisson, Friedrich 126 London World’s Fair 175–76, 209 Maximilian IV/I (of Bavaria) 136–37, Loosjes, Adriaan 156 139 Lo stato mussoliniano 224 Maximilian II (of Bavaria) 158 Louis XIV (of France) 25, 63, 69, 174 Mazohl-Walling, Brigitte 205 Louis XVI (of France) 44, 101 Mazzini, Giuseppe 140 Louis XVIII (of France) 138 McCrone, David 169 304 Index
McNeil, Peter 85, 88, 156 Misogymnotas (psuedonym) 186–87 Mecklenburg 123, 155 misogyny 7, 19, 22–24, 30, 44, 49, medals 102, 126, 171; Olympic 220 81, 221–22, 235 Medici, Cosino I de 51 Missy, Jean Rousset de 60–61 Mednyánszky, Sándor 203 M.O. (pseudonym) 91–95, 112, 116, Menk, Mekarski 21 118–19, 154, 232–34, 236 men’s clothing 113, 163, 192, Modish, Jack (pseudonym) 184–85 218, 222 Modnaya lavka 30, 32 Menon, Elizabeth 30 Modní noviny 207 Mental Travels in Imagined Lands 42 monarchism 3, 7, 25, 39–44, 47–48, Merched Cymru 161 56–57, 59–60, 62–64, 66, 79, 81, Mercier (pseudonym) 74 84–85, 89–96, 101, 112, 114, 119, Mercier, Claude-François-Xavier 104, 123, 135–37, 140–41, 145, 154, 232 158, 174, 202, 212, 233; decline Messbarger, Rebecca 23 of 96–97, 100, 110, 135, 177, 184 Middle Ages (medieval) 4, 7, 12, 45, Moñino, Jose see Floridablanca 49–50, 52, 78, 82–83, 114, 117, Montano, Vittorio 224 164, 205 Montenegro 144 Middle classes 12–14, 18, 27, 45, 58, Montreal 108 78, 81, 88–89, 94, 98–99, 115, 160, Monument du costume physique et 177–78, 206, 216, 233, 236; see also morale 105 Bourgeois, Bourgeoisie Moore, John 101 Milan 5, 51, 208, 217, 223–25 Moravia 155 military uniforms (military dress) 3, Morbihan 126 7, 20, 25–26, 59, 62–73, 80–82, More, Hannah 35 121–24, 151, 228; in Austria 25, Moreau, Jean-Michel (the 66, 73; in France 59, 63, 67–69, younger) 105, 109, 119 102–104, 106, 109–10, 122–25, Morgan, Prys 168 127–28, 31–132; in Germany 70, Morning Chronicle 185–87 75; 113, 123, 137, 191–92; in Moscow 36, 60–61 Great Britain 64, 66–70, 123, Möser, Justus 80, 82–85, 88–95, 97, 169, 177; in Greece 171–74, 99, 104, 106, 112, 18–120, 154, 176–77, 231; in Hungary 196, 228, 232, 234 201; in Ireland 68–69, 71; in motherhood, mothers 23, 32, 44, Italy 226; in Lithuania 168; 50, 76, 91, 98, 105, 117, 133, 162, in the Netherlands 63, 123–24; 169, 184, 199, 204–205, 234 in the Ottoman Empire 67, Muhammad 53, 55, 57 140–41, 146, 148; in the Papal Mukerji, Chandra 25 state 136, 140; in Poland 64, Munich 189 123; in Portugal 67–68, 123; Münchener Zeitung 86 in Prussia 59, 65–67, 71, 83, Murad, Mehmed 145 123; in Russia 65, 67, 72; in Murat, Joachim-Napoléon 138 Saxony 64, 66; in Spain 67, Musée Carnivalet 109 123, 136; in Sweden 85, 87, 123; Museum der eleganten Welt 180 in Switzerland 63; in the United Museum für Kunst und Industrie States 68, 123; in Wales 164–65; 212 see also service uniforms Museum für angewandte Kunst 212 Minerva 74 Muslims: in Bulgaria 147–48; in Miollis, Alexandre 136 Montenegro 144, in the Ottoman Index 305
Empire 53, 55–56, 142–43, 145; in Nemzeti Kör 201 Serbia 144; in Spain 53; see also Netherlands 14, 32, 34, 49, 61, 63, Saracens 123–24, 134–40, 156, 216, 229 Mussolini, Benito 220–21, 223–27 New Hampshire 100 Myrtle, The 180 New South Wales 48 Nielsen, Kay 63 Naples 19, 50, 138–39 Nikolai I (of Russia) 72 Napoléon Bonaparte 6, 42, 67, Nîmes 126 109–10, 134, 135–36, 139; down- Nipperdey, Thomas 110 fall 118, 120, 126, 137, 235 nobles, nobility (gentry) 3, 8, 12, Napoleon Crossing the Alps (painting), 47, 58–59, 61, 74, 83, 86, 90, 98, 105 101, 110, 115, 125, 154, 161, 200, Napoleonic Wars 7, 110–11, 116–17, 202–203, 206, 231; see also 119, 134, 139, 181, 186–87, 232, 234 aristocrats, aristocracy National Fabric, The 177 Noord Holland 123 National Guard: in France 68, 108, Nörkoping 86 132, 138; in Germany 191; in Normandy 52 Ireland 68 Norris, Maria 109 nationalism, linguistic 2, 3, 99, Norway 5, 157 113, 134, 153–54, 161, 164, 170, November Uprising (Warsaw) 139 199–200, 204, 212 Nugent, Lord 174 nationalism, racial, see race Nuremberg 51 nationalism, romantic 153, 231, 233 Nyilaskeresztes Párt 227 Nationalism theory: definitions and terminology 1–2, 154, 212; “civic– Ober, Patrica 10 ethnic” dichotomy 118–19; dis- Oberkirch, baroness d 210 proportionate study of nationalist officials’ uniforms 13, 66, 72–73, 83, intelligentsias 155, 231; imagined 85, 87, 91, 106, 108, 127, 138, 141, community 2–3; invented tradi- 149, 172, 227–28 tions 159–60, 168, 170; “national Opitz, Johann Ferdinand 88–90, 92, brotherhood” 43–44; national 95, 99, 154, 232 indifference 155, 231; Warwick Orga Irfan 148–49 debate 8, 159–60, 170 Orlik Emil 213 National-Chronik der Teutschen Osnabrück 82, 99 136–37 Österreichische Museum 212 nationality 4, 151, 153–54, 157, 161, O’Connell, Maurice 122 164, 170, 196, 204, 221, 228–29; O’Sullivan, Emer 158 see also citizenship Othon I (of Greece) 139, 172–75, Nationaltracht, Die 89–90, 94, 160 177–78 Natura 225 Ottoman Empire 8, 23, 48–49, 53, Navarrete, Martín Fernández de 92, 55, 67, 119, 121–22, 140–48, 151, see also M.O. 170, 172, 199, 200, 231, 233–34; Nazi Germany 51, 118, 212, 227–28; see also Turkey, Republic of see also Germany, fascism in Owen, John 125, 134 Nazi Occupation: of France 181; of Owen, William see Pughe Greece 176 Oxford, Council of 51–52 neckties (cravats) 19–20, 101, 124, 149, 222, 227 Padua 52 Nemes, Robert 193, 204 Paget, John 200 306 Index
Palermo 138 Peasants into Frenchmen 154, 232 Palikari 170–71 Peel, Robert 71 Panthéon 105 Percy Anecdotes 32 pants, see trousers Pere III (of Valencia) 51 Pardoe, Julia 141 Père Duchesne, Le 102 Paris 4–5, 15, 20, 27, 30, 44, 71, 75, perfume 19 103, 117, 125, 155–57, 172, 175, Perpignan 52 181–82, 189, 193–94, 202, 208–11, Perrakis, Stylianos 176 213–17, 222–24, 226 Persia 38, 210 Paris World’s Fair 175 Peru 48, 53 Parisian fashion 14–15, 23, 156–157, Pest, see Budapest 181, 189, 193, 195, 202, 209–14, Pesti Divatlap 193–94, 196, 201 216–17, 222, 225–26; see also Haute Pesti Napló 201 couture, Versailles fashion system Peter the Great, see Piotr I Parliament, British 163, 184, 186–87 petticoats 17, 25, 52, 186; see also Parliament, French (National crinoline Assembly, National Philanthropinum 72, 89 Convention) 101, 103–106, 125, Philhellenes 170–71, 174 127, 129, 131–32 P.H.L. (pseudonym) 194 Parliament, German 75, 192 Phrygian cap, see bonnet rouge Parliament, Greek (including National Pichler, Caroline 36, 115–17, 119, Assembly) 171, 174 154, 162, 212, 228, 232–33, 236 Parliament, Hungarian 193, 195, Pinkus, Karen 226, 228 201–202 Piotr I (of Russia) 60–62, 65, 94, 140, Parliament, Italian 220 149–150, 174 Parliament, Turkish (Grand National Piotr III (of Russia) 67 Assembly) 149 Piraeus 172, 176 Parliament of Fashion 185–87 Pius II (pope) 52 Partito Politico Futurista 220–21 Pius VII (pope) 136 Pa¸sa, Darendeli Topal Izzet˙ Platen, Moritz 22 Mehmet 142 “Poesia simultanea della moda Pastoret, Claude-Emmanuel 105 italiana” 225 pastors: Anglican 34–37, 41; Poiret, Paul 210–11, 13–214, 221, Lutheran 49, 61, 66, 81; see also 226, 228 priests Poland 5, 22–23, 34, 52, 62, 64, 87, Pateman, Carole 43–44, 94, 100, 123, 134, 139, 174 192, 194, 234 Poliakov, Léon 55 Paterfamilias 32–23 police uniforms 72–73, 106, Paton, Andrew 144 174, 228 patriarchy 21, 43–44, 113–14, 119, Politisches Journal 73 151, 174, 236 Pollart, Phillipe-Joseph 128–29 Patterson, Arthur 199, 202–204 Pomaks 147–48 Paulicelli, Eugenia 223 Poniatowski, Stanisław August 87 pearls 48, 200 Portsmouth 127 peasantry and peasant costume 3, Portugal 5, 44, 47, 53, 68, 123 8, 12, 50, 57–58, 60–61, 66–67, 76, Potsdam 34, 65 80, 86, 111, 116, 120, 145, 153–60, Prague 6, 20, 36, 208 162, 171, 167–68, 176–78, 196, 203, Pram, Christian 87 212, 236 pregnancy 50 Index 307
Preissová, Gabriela 177–78 Riga 229 priests: Catholic 108, 139; Rigault, Hippolyte 27 Orthodox 61, 143, 147; Rimetea 6, 201 see also pastors rings 50, 67, 189–90 pride 25–26, 48, 65–66, 87, 108, Robespierre 103, 108, 121, 130 145, 175, 190, 212, 221 Rocca, Albert 134 Primrose Hill 165 Roche, Daniel 3, 4, 70 private sphere 118, 127, 204 Rodríguez, Pedro 94 proletariat, see working class Roman Republic 135 prostitution 50–51, 56 Romania 6, 23, 146, 155, 196, 227 Proust, Marcel 26 romance, romantic love 13, 76, 89, Prussia 7, 26, 59, 65–67, 69, 71, 81, 112, 126–27, 191–92, 220; see also 83, 123–25, 134, 137–38, 140, 181 sexuality public sphere 81, 92, 118, 205 Romanticism 4, 36, 114, 154, 160; Pugachev, Yemelyan 60 see also nationalism, romantic Pughe (psudeonym) 165 Rome, ancient 62, 109, 144, 129 Pulszky, Ferenc 195 Rome, modern 5, 52, 83, 89, 126, Punch 12, 18, 32–33 135, 219–20 Purdy, Daniel 4, 26, 83 Roque, Antoine de la 39–40 Rose, William 176 Quataert, Donald 48, 143, 151 Rossiaud, Jacques 50 Queen Fashion 7, 29, 36–45, 94, Roth, Joseph 73 179, 184, 187, 210, 235; see also Rotterdam 123 Goddess Fashion, King Fashion Rouelle 50–52 Queenship 44 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 44, 88 Roussel, Pierre-Joseph-Alexis 132 race, racial thinking 48, 57, 145, Roussy-Trioson, Anne-Louis de 106 151, 213–14 Royal Ireland Yacht Club 74 Racinet, Auguste 5 Rubeš, František 34 Radev, Simeon 146–47 rubber 225–26 Raeff, Marc 62 Russia 7, 13, 17, 20, 25, 30, 32, 44, Rålamb, Claes 48–49 47, 59–62, 65, 67, 72, 87, 94, 103, Rangström, Lena 86–87 110, 125, 139–40, 146, 149, 158, Rational Dress Society, the 22 168, 170–72, 196, 212, 222, 230 rayon 224–26, 228 R. v. M. (pseudonym) 76 red caps, see bonnet rouge, Cervenaˇ kapa, Kızılba¸s Sa’deddˉin, Müstaqˉun Zˉade reform dress 10, 12, 216 Sülemˉan 55 Rehn, Jean Eric 85 Saint Domingue, see Haiti, Santo Réimpression de l’Ancien Moniteur 109 Domingo Révolutions de Paris 124–25 Saint-Étienne, Rabaut de 103 Rheinische Merkur 110 Saint-Just, Louis 102–103, 232 Rhineland 125, 135, 137 Saint Petersburg 5, 30, 61, 125, 208 Rhode Island 100 Saint-Sauveur, Jacques-Grasset ribbons 32, 47, 72, 93, 123–24, 128, 108–109, 160 131, 139–40, 142, 150, 162, 181, Sakellaropoulos, Andreas 175 196; see also cockades Sala, Geroge 35 Ribeiro, Aileen 68, 132, 152, 180 Salamanca 136 Richards, Jeffrey 52 Salaris, Claudia 222 308 Index
Saliklis, Rita 169 uniforms 72–73, 106, 145; salons 20, 36, 44–45, 115, 195; see also military uniforms see also clubs Sergiescu, Thoma 23 Sambenito 53–55 Serna, Joseph de 36 Sans-culottes 69, 102, 108 Seward, Anna 167 Santo Domingo 48 Sewell, William 129, 236 Saracens 51, 53 sewing machines 208–209 Sartor Resartus 14 sexism 9, 170; see also misogyny sartorial sovereignty 3, 7, 39, Sexual Contract, The 43, 234; see also 84, 96, 98, 100, 104, 110–11, Pateman, Carole 114–16, 122, 126, 154, 160, sexuality 4, 43, 49–51, 57, 76, 86, 163, 177, 198, 203, 205, 214, 91, 94, 100, 103, 114, 118, 168, 216, 221, 233–35 183, 194, 220, 234; see also romance sashes 63, 106, 109, 174–75 Seyhüislam¸ 49, 55 Savoy 47, 52, 155 Shakespeare, William 13 Saxony 64, 66, 188 shame 21, 48, 51, 55, 122, 148, 158; Sayyids 55 see also humiliation Scandinavia 57, 225 Sherwood, Mary 42 Scharnhorst, Johann 137 Shi’ites 55 Schiaperelli, Elsa 211, 226 shawls 215 Schiele, Egon 213 shirts 63, 69, 149, 150, 170, 204, Schneider, Eva Marie 111 226–28 Schultze-Naumberg, Paul 21 shoes 21, 32–33, 47–48, 50, 63, 102, school uniforms 72–73, 106, 145 112, 146, 149, 170, 176, 219 Science of Dress in Theory and Practice, shoelaces 40 The 11 shop windows 175, 194, 208 Scotland 5, 21, 47, 50, 135, 156–57, Sibiu 194 159–60, 169–70, 177, 182; see also Sicily 53, 138–140 Great Britain Sicilian Revolution 138–39 Scottish costume 5, 47, 50, 89, 94, Sienna 52 117, 156–57, 159–60, 169–70, 177, Sieger, Paul 213–14 203, 215; see also kilts Sieyès, Emmanuel-Joseph 128 Schutzmannschaft 71 silk 23, 38, 47–49, 77, 85, 94, 101, Sealsfield, Charles 199 110, 141, 156, 174, 177, 183–84, Section des Droits-de-l’Homme 131 187, 195, 224–26 Section Sans-culottes 131 Sillani, Tomaso 224 Selim III (of Turkey) 56 silver 47, 199; braid or embroidery Sempere y Guarinos, Juan 27 72, 91, 172 Sendtner, Anna Barbara 113–15, Simonne, Mathieu de la 63 118, 154, 228, 232–44, 236 Siria¸ 196 Senegal 106 sisterhood 115–16 separate spheres 205, 235–36; see Skåne 86, 155 also private sphere, public sphere Skelton, Philip 37–39 Serbia 8, 144–145, 147, 155 skirts 10, 25, 168, 185 service uniforms 70–73; officials’ Slavejkov, Petko 14, 17–18 uniforms 13, 66, 72–73, 83, 85, Slavici, Ion 155 87, 91, 106, 108, 127, 138, 141, Slaville, Jean-Baptiste 101 149, 172, 27–228; police sleeves 50–51, 60, 65, 75, 87, 91, uniforms 70–73, 174, 228; school 116, 170, 204, 227 Index 309
Slovakia 50, 144, 213 Svenska och finska uniformer 85 Smith, Charles Manby 208 Sweden 5, 7, 48, 63, 84–87, 93, 103, Smith, Theresa Ann 92, 95 111, 123, 209–10, 235 Snia Viscosa 225 Switzerland 47, 89, 109, 130, 134, Sobieski-Stuart pretenders 177 171, 216 Società Nazionale Industria Szálasi, Ferenc 203 Applicazioni Viscosa 225 Széchenyi, Isvtán 200 Société des Républicaines- Révolutionnaires 132–33, 235 Tagesbericht für die Modenwelt 190 Société populaire et républicaine des tartan 159, 169–70 arts 104, 133 Tartu 47 socks 146, 170 Teˉlegrafos 175 Sofia 5, 146 telegraph of fashion 185 Solaris, Catherine 86 Tellier Michel le 63 Sombrero 156 Timis,oara 197 Spain 6–7, 19, 23, 25, 36, 46–47, 53, Temps, le 17 55, 67, 86, 91–94, 106, 116, 123, Terry, Richard 159 136, 138, 140, 156–57, 178, 235 textile imports/exports 19, 23, 47, Spencer, Edmund 153 65, 86, 89, 91, 93, 99, 182–83, 193, Spencer, Elaine 70–71 214, 224–25 Spitalfields 184 textile manufacturing 8, 65, 93, Spree 115 182–83, 175, 182, 187–94, 196, 200, Sprung, Hertha von 204 204, 206, 211–13, 223–26, Starace, Achille 227 228–29, 231 stays 26, 105, 186 Thackeray, William 30 Stearns, Peter 5 Thirty Years’ War 63, 85 Steele, Valerie 22 Thriambos tou Syntagmatos 175 Stein, Sarah 145 Thrace 155 Stern, Radu 10, 222 Time 15–16 Stevens, Christine 168 Tisdall, Caroline 221 Stockholm 5, 84–86 Timurtaˇs 53 Stoclet family 216 Tobol’sk 61 Stoyanov, Zahari 145–46 Togas 109, 200 Strahl, Adolf 174 Togati 200 Stratford 13 Toilette des dames 27 Strasbourg 46, 48 Toledo 178 Stuttgart 72 top hats 156, 182, 203 suffrage, women’s 12, 205 Toriviscosa 225 Sugar, Peter 196 Toulouse 51, 56 Šulek, Bogoslav 144–45 Traje nacional 91–94, 116, 118, 233, sumptuary laws 7, 19, 45–52, 56–59, 235; see also M.O. 62–63, 76, 78, 82–83, 91, 84, Transylvania 6, 201 94–95, 101–102, 115–16, 142, 179, Trant, Thomas 171–72 205–206, 210, 230 travel accounts 6, 38–39, 42, 93, Surinam 135 143, 157–58, 171, 173–74, 198; Surname-i Vehbi 49 see also American travelers, British Surrey 19 travelers, French travelers, German Svenska dräkten 84–88, 90–94, travelers, Hungarian travelers, 105–106, 109, 121, 150 Italian travelers 310 Index
Treasure, Geoffrey 25 Vasi´c, Cedomirˇ 144 Treaty of Berlin 146 Vatican 229 Treaty of Pressburg 137 Vauban, Sébastien 63 Trevor-Roper, Hugh 159, 168 Védegylet 193–96, 198, 200 tricolors 134–37, 140, 150; Veér, Magda 204 Belgian 139; Cisapline 135; veils 50; see also hijab Dutch 135, French 103, Velde, Henry van de 10, 207, 211 106, 109, 125–26, 134–36, velvet 108, 195 139, 181; German 137, 189; Vendée 126 Greek 139; Helvetic 135; Venezuela 48 Hungarian 196–97; Italian 135, Venice 52, 56 137, 219; Neapolitan 138; Verinis, James 176 Rhinelander 135; Roman 135, Versailles 5, 25, 101 Sicilian 138 Versailles fashion system 25, Trieste 225 101, 112 trousers (pants) 10, 50, 63, 69, 72, Vetter, Adolf 215–16, 228 75, 102–103, 112, 114, 133, 149–50, Victoria (of Great Britain) 182, 209 156, 172, 175, 199, 203, 210; Vidin 200 see also bloomers Vienna 5, 14, 24, 47, 73, 115, Tsarskoe Selo 72 181–82, 189–92, 195, 199, 202, Tüd˝os, Klára 204 212–14, 216–17, 234 Tunis 141 Világos, Capitulation of 196–97 turbans 48–49, 53, 55, 76, 134, Villette, Charles 130 141–45 Vionette Madeline 211 Turkey, Republic of 8, 148–50, 231; Voigt, Wilhelm 66 see also Ottoman Empire Volt 220–221, 225 Turkish clothing styles 54–55, 76, Voltaire 33, 55, 87, 106, 130 119, 140–45, 148–50, 156, 160, 172, Voz, La 178 215 Turnock, David 204 Waddington, Augusta, see Lady Tyranny of Elegance, The 4 Llanover Tyrol 137, 156 Waldmüller, Robert 175 Wales 8, 17, 157, 161–69, 176–77, Ubicini, Abdolonyme 143 182, 203, 231; see also Great Britain Ufficiali della donne 49 Wales, Prince of 40, 159 Ukraine 178; see also Crimea War of the Austrian Succession 67 Ungewitter, Richard 21 Waring, John Scott 183 USSR 159, 230 Warsaw 139 United Irishmen 68–69 Wartburg 117, 119 United Kingdom; see Great Britain Warwick debate 159–60 United States 7, 44, 68, 99–100, 123, Was ist des Teutschen Vaterland? 111 195, 209, 216, 195, 233 Washington, George 44, 68 Utrecht 124, 135 Watson, James 135 Weber, Eugen 154, 178, 232 Vahot, Imre 194, 200 Weimar 125, 181 Vanity Fair 30 Weimar Republic 137 Varedo 225 Wellesley, Arthur 67 Vári, András 158 Wellington, Duke of, see Wellesley, Vašek Bedˇrich 19–20 Arthur Index 311
What is Fascism and Why 224 Worth, Charles 202, 209–11 Wheeler and Wilson 209 Worth et Bobergh 209 Whig Club 73 Wright, Henry 42 Whitcombe, William 171 Wrigley, Richard 102 Whiteley, William 208 Wuppertal 190 Wiener Gassenzeitung 192 Wurst, Karin 97, 114, 117 Wiener Modezeitung 24 Württemburg 72 Wiener Sonntagsblätter 189, 192, 234 W. von Ch. (pseudonym) 96, Wiener Werkstätte 213, 215–17 116–17, 119 Wilde, Oscar 10, 26 Wilhelmina, Frederika Sophia 124 xenophobia 7, 57, 182, 198 Willem I (of the Netherlands) 139 Willem V (of the Netherlands) 124 Yagou, Artemis 175 Williams, Edward see Iolo Morganwg Yekaterina I (of Russia) 62 Williams, Gwyn 166 Yekaterina II (of Russia) 6, 44, 60, Williams, John see Ab Ithel 67, 87–88 Wilson, Elizabeth 10 Yelizavetna Petrovna (of Russia) 44 Wilton, Mary 156 Yeniçeri 140–141, 148 Wimmer-Wisgrill, Eduard 213–14, Young, Arthur 126 216 Young Turks 148 Wismar 208 Ypsilantis, Alexandros 139 witchcraft 19 Yuval-Davis, Nira 169, 177, 205 Wolan, Andrzej 22 women’s clothing 10, 18, 20, 27, 49, Zachariä, Karl Salomo 62 76, 91, 132, 169, 186, 218, 220, 225 Zagreb 18 wool 13, 71, 127, 146, 162–64, Zalusky, Franz 214 183, 225 Zedler, Johann 22 working class (proletariat) 102, 116, Zeitung für die elegante Welt 20 176, 206, 222 Zherebtsov, Nikolai 36 World War One 148, 204, 207–208, Zhnyatyno 178 214, 216, 219, 231, 233 Zhongshan jacket 120 World War Two 147–48, 176, Zwierlein 74–75 203, 227 Zügürt˘ 145