Classifying and Cataloguing System and Procedure for Costume, Textile, and Slide Collections

Home , Barathea, Beetling, Cretonne, Foulard, Marquisette, Nightgown

AN ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS OF Rose Diane Deforge for the degree of Master of Science in Clothing,

Textile, and Related Arts presented on December 14, 1979. Title: Classifying and Cataloguing System and Procedure for Cos- tume, Textile, and Slide Collections.

Abstract approved: Redacted for Privacy Dr....oily Schrank The purpose of the study was to develop a system and procedure for classifying and cataloguing the textile, costume, and slide collections of the Clothing, Textile, and Related Arts (CTRA) Depart- ment at Oregon State University.Investigation was made by letter, personal visit, interview with faculty and curators, and literature research to identify different purpose and use statementsclassi- fying and cataloguing systems, catalogue files, and criteria for evaluating the system and procedure. The investigation resulted in the development of a purpose and use statement based on the collection characteristics and user needs; identification of user needs; criteria for evaluating the proposed system and procedure; and the recommended system and procedure. Robert Chenhall developed a system for cataloguing in the computer age. The system contains 91 data fields and can be established as a manual or computerized file.The Chenhall system was adapted for CTRA using 39 of the 91 data fields.Eleven of the data fields were subdivided to meet the expressed needs of the users. Data field definitions and instructions were developed and arranged into a Classifying and Cataloguing Manual. The Manual procedure was tested and revised to meet the established criteria. Sample word lists were developed and reference resources were recommended to maintain vocabulary control.Basic rules were established to provide the cataloguer with a basis for consistency in recording information and use of the system. Procedures were developed and included in the Manual for completing the cataloguing process including instructions for the ledger page, catalogue worksheet, donated objects, label preparation, establishing data files such as Documentation File and History of Ownership, and establishing catalogue card files such as Subject-Index File, Registration-Accession File, and Appraisal File. A recommended test and evaluation of the proposed Subject- Index File was established to determine ease of use after the file is implemented. The CTRA department head will review the test and evaluation results to determine if any further changes are needed to improve ease of use of the Subject-Index File for information retrieval. Classifying and Cataloguing System and Procedure for Costume, Textile, and Slide Collections

by Rose Diane Deforge

A THESIS

submitted to

Oregon Sate University

in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science June 1980 APPROVED:

Redacted for Privacy Associate -ofessor of Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts in charge of major

Redacted for Privacy Head of D rtment of Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts Redacted for Privacy

Date thesis is presented December 14, 1979

Typed by MarY Ann Airth for Rose Diane Deforge ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

To Dr. Holly Schrank, my advisor, deep appreciation and thank you for your patience, advice, encouragement, and positive support. To Dr. Ruth Gates, thank you for your encouragement and support in the classroom and for your input as one of the major collection users. To the CTRA users: Nancy Bryant, Wayne Deveney, Holly Schrank, and Ruth Gates, thank you for testing the system and suggesting changes to improve the procedures. To Lucy Skjelstad and Staff from Horner Museum, thank you for advice and help in testing the system. To curators Virginia Harvey and Barbara Zentner, thank you for the time spent showing me the system and procedures used at the museums. To museum and university personnel who responded to inquiry letters, thank you for the information sent which was vital to the development of this system. To my church family for your love, support and prayers, thank you and may God richly bless each of you. To Judy Keller, Carol Goertz, Jean Peacock, and Terry Hegle, a special thanks for added assistance in the completion of this project. To my husband Maurice, my son Michel, and my family Dad, Mom, Dave, and Men i Kaye, for your love, unselfishness, support, patience, and strength which helped me through this project, words cannot express my gratitude. To my Heavenly Father, adoration and praise. TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction. of the Problem ...... 3 Purpose...... Justification . 6 Evaluation of the Thesis Study and Systems 7

Review of Literature. 9 Introduction...... 9 Registration ...... 12 Registration Process ...... 12 Methods of Registration ...... 20 Classifying Data Classification System Categories ...... Development of a Classification System 26 Cataloguing ...... 27 Catalogue Files ...... 28 Criteria for Establishing Files .... Criteria for Ei.riluating Files ...... 34 Catalogue Systems ...... Computerized Files ...... 3396 Summary 40

Procedure ...42 Development of the Purpose and Use Statement . 42 Identification of User Needs ...... 43 Development of the Classifying and Cataloguing Systems ...... 44 Development of the Classifying and Cataloguing Procedures ...... 47 Eva Illations ...... 9 . IV. Presentation of Results. ... 49 Purpose and Use Statement Development...... 49 Faculty Interviews.. Functions of the Collections 50 Reasons for Cataloguing 51 Use of Collections ...... Letters and Visits Purpose and Use of CTRA Collections...... 54 Identification of User Needs 55 Information Desired by Users 55 Information Desired by Potential Users 57 Second Interviews OOOO . 58 Analysis of Present Systems ...... 60 Present Systems Identified ...... 61 Historic Costumes ...... 61 World Costumes, World and Historic Textiles ... 63 Slides...... 64 Evaluation of Present System 65 Development of Criteria for Evaluating the Proposed Classifying and Cataloguing 69 Introduction...... 69 Criteria Identified in Literature 70 Criteria Used by Other Institutions 75 System Characteristics Requested by Users...... 76 Criteria Adopted for Evaluating the Proposed Classifying and Cataloguing System and Procedure 77 Proposed Classifying and Cataloguing System 80 System Proposed for CTRA...... 82 Justification for Data Fields Included in the Proposed CTRA System . 83 Rationale for Excluding Some of Chenhall's Data Fields From the Proposed System...... 91 Data Fields Established to Meet Expressed User Needs ...... 95 Recommended Procedural Steps...... 97 Rationale for Proposed Procedures 97 Testing Classifying and Cataloguing Proce- dures...... 110 Recommended Test and Evaluation of Subject- Index File After Implementation 117

V. Summary, Conclusions, and Recommendations.... 120 Summary ...... 120 Conclusions .. 128 Recommendations. . . To the Clothing, Textile, and Related Arts Department . 128 For Future Study 130 Bibliogra phy Appendix A Historic Costume and Textile Workshop Flyer...... 135 Appendix B Oregon State University Faculty Interview Schedule 136 Appendix C University and Museum Per- sonnel Contacted by Letter. 137 Appendix D Personal Visit and Interview Schedule for Other Institutions. 140 Appendix E Summary of Faculty Interview Responses ..... 141 Appendix F Purpose and Use Statement of the Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts Collections of World and Historic Costumes, Textiles, and Slides Recom- mended for Adoption... 144 Appendix GSummary of Faculty Interviews Regarding Expressed User Needs 146 Appendix HSummary of Information Users Desire to Have Recorded and Retrievable ..... 14 8 Appendix I Summary of Second Interview Results 150 Appendix Current Historic Costume Classification Categories.. 1 Appendix K Current World and Historic Textile and World Costume Classification Categories.. 153 Appendix L Original Form for Evaluating Proposed System Procedures with Responses Given by Three Users. 155 Appendix MChenhall's Cataloguing System 157 Appendix NProposed Classifying and Cat- aloguing Manual 166 Appendix 0Recommended Steps for Imple- menting the Proposed System .. 244 Appendix P Revised Form for Evaluating the Proposed System Procedures, With Responses from the Two Re-test Users..... 247 Appendix Q Preliminary Draft and Revised Cataloguing Worksheet 249 Appendix R Retrieval Problems to Test Subject-Index Retrievability after Implementation ... . . 251 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Figure Page

1 Preliminary Object Classes Established by RobertChenhall for DataField 88 ...... 92 Sample of Record Ledger with Information Recorded.

Sample Subject Index File Card 236

Appraisal File Card...... 237 Classifying And Cataloguing System And Procedure For Costume, Textile, And Slide Collections

I.Introduction

Collecting objects of differing natures from junk to valuable antiques is done by many people from childhood to old age. Collect- ing is done by individual people or by groups of people for an Identified purpose. One person may take pleasure in collecting items for personal value, while another collects items that may have use in the future. Groups of people may desire to collect objects or items used by past and present civilizations as a means of preserving the objects for future generations. The collected objects are acquired and preserved because of potential value as examples, reference materials, objects of aesthetic or educational importance (Burcaw, 1975). The nature of the collection becomes the basis of gathering and organizing the objects into useful and meaningful units. A collection is one unit consisting of objects having in common something of importance to the collector or the collecting agency (Burcaw, 1975). Organization is vital to the survival of any collection. The persons who are responsible for the collections change with time, and often the information known about specific objects within the collection is lost unless adequate records are kept and maintained (Burcaw, 1975). Collections of costumes and textiles provide the present and future generations with valuable information about the past.National interest and concern has been expressed for solutions to common collection problems of colleges and museums. A national Historic Costume and Textile Workshop was held on June 21-24, 1978 at Michigan State University, for the purpose of sharing past experiences in managing collections and developing cooperation towards solving common problems in organizing collections for use and information exchange.(Appendix A, page 135)Information recorded about items within a collection is based on local user needs. Many museums are in the process of updating registration and cataloguing procedures to provide the information desired by the collection users. Horner Museum at Oregon State University had a new classifying and cataloguing system arid procedure developed for implementation during the Summer of 1978 to provide more information in a form which can be easily entered into a computer. Several faculty members in the Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts Department (CTRA) of Oregon State University have expressed concern and need for a classification system which allows for identification of specific detailed information, and a catalogue system which allows for retrieval of detailed information which is easier to use than the present system. The Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts collections have been expanded, use of the collections has increased, and different faculty members have been using the collections since the previous classifying and cataloguing systems and procedures were implemented in the mid-fifties. A classification system which allows for identification of detailed data will provide a means for faculty to retrieve examples to illustrate lectures, for students to study specific characteristics and information contained in the collections, and for students and faculty to use the collections for further documentation and research. A catalogue system which allows for easier retrieval of examples will facilitate use of the collections by faculty and students.

Statement of Problem

Collections of historic and world costumes, textiles, and slides provide an important link to the past which needs to be preserved, a tool for learning, and resources for study and research. In order that any collection may be preserved and used, proper and adequate records of the collection become important. The records of a collection which are needed include adequate systems of registering, classifying, and cataloguing. Classification systems for non-book collections are less well established and standardized because of the variety of collections and differences in the stated use and purpose of each collection. The classification system should provide for identification of detailed descriptive data which can be arranged into divisions and subdivisions identified as relevant to users and stated in the purposes of the collection. Each object of the collection should fit into the classification system and be retrievable from the system by the user. Current faculty believe the Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts collections of world and historic textiles, costumes, and slides are difficult to use because of the broad classification system, the lack of consistency between the systems used for slides by various faculty members, and inadequate cross-indexing of detailed descriptive data. Currently, most costumes and textiles are classified and catalogued. Some items have not been registered, classified or catalogued, and most of the slides are not catalogued. Often a user who desires to find specific illustrative information in the collections must hand sort through catalogue cards and the collections to find desired examples. Even persons familiar with the collections must spend considerable time and effort to find the needed examples. Related collections classified by the same or closely related systems allowing for the identification of detailed descriptive data may permit better use of all the collections. A desire for such a system has been expressed by Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts faculty who frequently use the current collections. The computer is an asset in the handling of large amounts of Information, since information is readily available, inventory control can be provided, and stored information can beanalyzed. Use of a computer can reduce the costs of clerical work to produce the needed information as well as reduce the time required to obtain the needed information.The idea of using a computer in the cataloguing process in museums is being developed and tested. Within the next few years, more efficient and less costly methods of converting information into machine readable forms will be developed.(Chenhall, 1975) The development of classifying and cataloguing systems which will easily convert to computer use in the future is essential.

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to develop a classification system for the world and historic collections of costumes, textiles, and slides which provides for the detailed descriptive data required for research and study, and to develop a catalogue system which will facilitate finding all available examples of identified characteristics, and can be converted to computer use in the future.The resulting objectives of the study were: to develop classifying and cataloguing systems based on a statement of purpose and use for the world and historic collections of textiles, costumes, and slides and on the identified user needs, to develop classifying and cataloguing systems which could be used for the collections of world and historic costumes, textiles, and slides with allowance for future expansion, 3.to develop a cataloguing system which would allow users to retrieve examples of any identified characteristic,

.to develop criteria for evaluating the classifying and cataloguing systems, and 5.to develop an evaluation procedure for the catalogue system to be used after implementation.

Justification

The Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts collections contain 1004 costumes and textiles which are catalogued on two different systems. Some costumes and textiles have not been catalogued and the majority of slides of costumes and textiles are not catalogued. Common classifying and cataloguing systems and procedures need to be developed for the Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts collections of world and historic costumes, textiles, and slides so that: the available information would be more usable and require less time to locate, more effective and efficient use of the collections could be made, sharing of resources between faculty members within the Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts Department as well as sharing the resources with other universities and museums would be possible, and 7

.possible future conversion to a computer would facilitate the maintenance of the large volume of detailed descriptive data, and would assist in the external inventory control of the collections for Insurance purposes.

Evaluation of the Thesis Study and Systems

The classification system and the recommended cataloguing procedure must be evaluated to determine, the degree to which user needs are met and the purpose and use statement for the collections are fulfilled.The evaluation will consist of the following:

.the classification system is workable in that randomly selected items from the world and historic costume, textile, a .d slide collection can be classified into the same or similar categories by a panel of faculty users, the same or closely related classification systems are useable for costumes, textiles, and slides, the classification system meets the criteria established for evaluating the system to insure fulfillment of the purpose and use statement for the collections, and user needs, the catalogue system meets the criteria established for evaluating the system to insure fulfillment of the purpose and use statement for the collections, and user needs, and 8

5.a plan for evaluation is established for use after the system and procedure have been implemented. II.Review of Literature

Introduction

The acquisition of objects helps preserve the past and the present for future generations. To insure preservation the objects must be organized and cared for properly to maintain value and useability. Museology is a "science that deals with the preparation and arrangement of specimens and collections in museums" (Webster, 1970, page

1184).Basic museum registration procedures have been published by the American Association of Museums (Dudley, Wilkinson, and others,

1958)and The American Association for State and Local History (Burcaw, 1975). Robert Chenhall (1975) reviewed the basic procedures with consideration for the computer age and its potential impact on museums. The basic procedures remained the same in the three sources mentioned above and are supported by others who work in museology (British Museum, 1936; Foskett, 1969; Weihs, Lewis, Macdonald, 1973; Lewis, 1976). The proper organization of any collection includes the following procedures.

1.Registration of an object to record the information necessary to identify the object and to summarize the information of the acquisition process (Dudley, et. al., 1958). The purpose of registration is to provide a brief, immediate, and permanent means of identifying and 10 locating each object within a collection (Dudley, et. _II. ,1958; Burcaw, 1975). The registration process involves accessioning the objects and recording a description and a history of the object. Classification to "arrange or group in classes according to some system or principle"(Webster, 1970, page 334).Classification is the establishment of major categories of the collection on the basis of anticipated useClassification is an important task since the system selected forms the basis for the catalogue files and makes retrieval through the catalogue files possible (Burcaw, 1975)- Cataloguing to assign an object in the collection to one or more categories in the organized classification system(Burcaw, 1975). The catalogue system chosen must meet specifically stated purposes in an efficient manner and several catalogue files may be needed to meet the stated purposes of the collections and the retrieval needs of the users (Chenhall, 1975). Each potential user of an information system should receive the information needed, in a usable form, at the time of request (Vickery, 1970). Labeling of each object with relevant information for retrieval and storage, which is essential for the proper use and preservation of tie collection. Selecting proper storage facilities includes the consideration of specific requirements for each object in the collection-- such as the equipment used for storage, the method of storage, and the location of the storage facilities. .Storage and care to insure the safety and preservation of the collections through proper care and environment (Keck, 1974).Careful examination of each item is necessary to determine the best care procedures.Structural preservation of the object in a form as close to the original as possible, and cleaning the object with the least amount of destruction are two of the important conservation processes. Without proper conservation procedures, the collection would become unuseable and worthless (Monro, 1978). Literature studied dealt with the areas of registration, classification, and cataloguing with specal attention given to systems used for clothing, textile, and slide collections. Definition of the scope and use of the collection was found to be fundamental to the estab- lishznent of appropriate procedures for registering, classifying, and cataloguing the items (Foskett, 1969; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975). The information included in each procedure area was based on the stated purpose and use of the collection as well as on user needs (Dudley, 2.1. al., 1958; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975). The information included in each procedure area was based on the stated purpose and use of the collection as well as on user needs (Dudley _It. Ai., 1958 Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975). 12

Registration

Registration Process

Record keeping is an important part of any collection, for without proper and adequate records, the collection would have little meaning to the usersChenhall (1975) discusses the importance of stating data standards to be used in selecting the proper data to record.The statement includes defining information categories and methods of recording the information.A dictionary of terms which would assist in the development of the collection catalogue and serve as a common base for the sharing of the catalogue data among museums must be established. A statement of intended use and purpose of the collection is relevant in determining the information to be recorded, the methods used in recording the selected information and the files established (Dudley, el. 1958; Weihs, al., 1973; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975; Manning, 1975). The standardization of terms, classification and subject headings, andconsistentuse of the standardized words and phrases makes the information recorded more meaningful to the users (Weihs, Ai., 1973; Manning, 1975; Lewis, 1976). Standardization is important for the later transfer of the system to a computer (Chenhall, 1975; Manning, 1975). The registration process involves assigning an object to a unique place in the collection in such a manner that the object cannot be 13 confused with any other similar object listed in the collection. Several authors agree on the information which should be recorded when registering an object (Dudley, at. Ai., 1958; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975; Lewis, 1976). The above references are the sources of information for the following sections with additional sources noted when appropriate, e.g., accession number pages 13 and 14. Information to be recorded includes accession number, acquisition source and date, donor name and address, artist, provenance, title or object name, date of origin, measurements, condition, price and date of purchase, appraisal value, historical record, remarks, storage location, date catalogue form was coMpleted with initials of recorder. Accession Number. Written information often accompanies each object and a procedure is needed to relate the information to the object and to avoid confusion with other objects. The most widely accepted method of establishing an accession number consists of a sequence of numbers separated by dashes or periods to express the year, number of acquisition for the year, and object number within the acquisition (Dudley, al., 1958; Burcaw, 1975). The number 1978.24.3 would represent the accession number for an object acquired in the year 1978 which is part of the 24th acquisition and is the third object in the acquisition. One great advantage of the number sequence form of accessioning is that the number can be recorded on each object imme- diately upon receipt before any identification of other information is 14

noted. The accession number prevents loss and mixup of objects in the acquisition and aids in readily identifying any object before it is catalogued (Dudley It. ,1958; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall1975: Lewis,

1976).In a survey of retrieval systems for historical costumes, Skewes (1975) found that nearly 53 percent of the 152 respondents used the full year of acquisition as part of the accession number, while nearly six percent used only the last two digits of the year Variations in the accession number were found. The system reported by Petterson (1978) adds a fourth notation to indicate multiple Items or pairs, e.g. di, d2 for exact duplicates; dcl for duplicate of different color, etc. Schoephoerster (1977) used a lower case letter as a fourth notation to identify separate parts of an item, e.g. a ,b,c ,. Skewes (1975) found some museums use a ,b,c, to identify the integral parts of an item such as the dress, the jacket, and the belt. Jean Mailey (1978), Textile Curator at the Metropolitan Museum of Arts uses a ,b,c, to designate parts of an object such as the back and seat cover of a side chair. Candice Green (1978), Curatorial Assistant at the Stovall Museum of Science and History adds a letter to the first position ahead of the year to designate the specific collection, e.g. Z for zoology. Ruth Morrissey (1978), Curator for the Helen L. Allen Textile Collection at the University of Wisconsin uses an alphabetical and number code for the accession number which indicates category, technique, provenance, and the piece in the collection. Morrissey 15 recommended a less complicated system be developed since few people are able to decode the accession number. Date of Acquisition. The date of acquisition is the month, day, and year the object or group of objects comes into the possession of the museum. Some museums require a formal acceptance of each item with a separate date recorded for the date of acceptance (Petterson,

1978). Source of Acquisition. Source of acquisition should be recorded noting how the object was acquired: loan, purchase, gift, or other. The source of acquisition aids in the process of deaccessioning the collection, and becomes a reference as to how the objects of the museum are acquired. Name ndAsidress of Donor. The name and address of the person or the place from which the objects were donated, loaned, or purchased is necessary for keeping records and becomes a convenient reference of the source of museum objects. Artist Name. Artist/designer/maker refers to the name of the individual who is responsible for making the object, or the school to which the object is attributed, e.g. Christian Dior, Jeanne Lanvin, or Madeleine Vionnet. Provenance. The provenance where the object was first made or found and the cultural group responsible for the creation of the object needs to be recorded. Some objects are created for beauty, and other 16 objects are created for functional purposes. Many objects placed in museums help to identify the probable life style, tools, skills, and other information about the culture in which the objects were made. The reason for preserving the objects is to learn about the past and to provide information for future generations as well as to have a source for study and research about other cultures which may no longer exist. Title.Title/object name/description provides a means of further identification of the object and assists in the placement of the object Into the proper place within the collection.The description identifies specific data about the object needed by the users. The descriptive data become the basis of the classification system.The data listed are determined from the stated purposes and uses of the collection and may include information on composition, techniques of construction, color and application, designs and methods of decoration. The description must be brief but sufficient enough to identify the objects (Wells, 1973; Judy, 1969). Date of Origin. The date of origin is the specific date or time period designation when the object was made or used. The data assists the user in identifying characteristics and manner of life during a stated period. Measurements. The measurements of the objects should be recorded in metric since the English measurement system is expected to be replaced in the near future and also because the metric system is an 17 international measurement system. Measurements provide the museum with a record of the object's size upon acquisition and assist in the condition control of the object.Loca.tion of the measurement must be recorded with the measurement. Condition. A statement of the general condition of the object is recorded after careful analysis, noting repairs and need for repairs. The statement of condition is important in observing any deterioration of the object and in noting the return condition after the object has been loaned to another museum. The statement of condition is based on the subjective analysis of the curator. The condition of the object is reflected in the value price of the object for insurance purposes. Price.Notation of the price for which the object was purchased along with the date of purchase should be recorded. The purchase price Is important for budgeting purposes, a record of investments and insurance valuation. Appraisal Value. Museum objects appreciate in value and the original purchase price becomes the basis for determination of adequate Insurance coverage. The appraisal value, date, and insurance coverage must be recorded for each object individually rather than a general statement of value and coverage for all museum collections. The date of appraisal is needed for maintaining up-to-date insurance coverage for the collection. 18

History.The historical record includes all information known about each object within a collection:prior ownership, sequence of location and use, facts, and tradition. The recorded history provides information about the object that is not possible to learn from any other source since the source is often a family descendant and the information is not published.Historical information is probably best placed within the catalogue file rather than in the accession file

(Dudley.. ,1958). Remarks. Any pertinent information about the object not recorded elsewhere should be recorded under remarks. Date Completed. The date the information form is completed and the initials of the person who is responsible for recording the information provides a record indicating who can answer questions about any of the recorded information on the specific object. Storage Location. A code to designate storage location of each object including room number, closet, drawer, and shelf must be recorded to provide information on where to locate the object. Additional Information. Due to unique qualities of collections of costumes and textiles, additional information may need to be recorded on the catalogue worksheet to meet the statement of purpose and use and the needs of users. Some of the additional areas of information possible are as follows: .the raw materials used for the basic garment or textile including fabric trade name (Schoephoerster, 1977), the distinctive characteristics of style of an object, for example, the cut of the garment (Schoephoerster, 1977), the outline shape or silhouette of an object (Schoephoerster,

1977), decorative detail which includes "anything added to the garment that is not necessary to the function of wearing the garment" (Schoephoerster, 1977),

.a record of the sources used to document and identify the object and to provide a source for future reference (Schoephoerster,

1977),

6.a photograph of the object which is used in place of a written description (Petterson, 1978), or in addition to the written description

for clarification (IVIailey, 1978),

7 identification of the type of weave used for the base fabric and for the decorative detail (Wells, 1953; Harrell, 1967; Hoskin, 1975; Schoephoerster, 1977), identification of each motif and the method of application

(Harrell, 1967; Hoskin,1975), identification of fibers used in the construction of the fabric and the trade name of the fabric should be listed (Wells, 1953; Harrell, 1967; Judy, 1969; Hoskin,1975; Deshon, 1975).Morrissey, (1978) 20 identifies fiber content for the warp yarns separately from the weft yarns, and 10. age categories such as "infant", "child", and "adult".User sex is distinguished with the terms male and female (Judy, 1969; Harrell, 1969).

Methods of Registration

Two basic methods of recording the accession information discussed in the literature are development of books or ledgers or use of file cards or file folders.Wells (1953) used three books prior to establishing a file. The work book contains inst-uctions relevant to classifying, codingledger entry, card filing, labeling, and use of the catalogue system.The key book provides a more complete record for each object listing most of the previously discussed information. The accession book is a permanent record of information in the key book.Lewis (1976) and Judy (1969) also suggest the use of the accession book as an additional source of recorded accession information. Lewis (1976) suggests the need for the accession file which consists of a folder for each object containing information on documentation or correspondence about the object. The files are kept in numerical order using the accession number. The registration file recommended by Dudley el.j., (1958) includes the information surrounding the accession of the object. Information on uniform cards 2 1 may be kept in any desired order and duplicated or supplemented without difficulty.Information kept in book or ledger form is difficult to rearrange, to duplicate, or supplement with new information.The nature and scope and the stated purpose and use of the collection are the basis for the selection of information to be recorded and the order and method of recording the information (Dudley, 21. al.,1958; Weihs,

ajo1973; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975; Manning, 1975).

Classifying Data

Classification is the process of identifying the detailed descriptive data of a collection and arranging the data into significant groupings, divisions, and subdivisions so each object in the collection fits into the classification system and is retrievable (Dudley,

1958; Vickery, 1970; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975).Burcaw (1975) states that "no entirely satisfactory system has yet been devised for the classification of all historical objects" (page 69), and the classification system must be based on the anticipated use of the collection as a prerequisite for good collecting. The stated purposes and uses of the collection are used to determine the selection of headings and divisions which assist the user in finding the needed information in the collection.The classification system becomes the basis of information recorded in the catalogue files and assists in the arrangement of the collection for storage (Vondercrone, 1957; Vickery, 1970; Burcaw 22

1975). The classification system must be based on the actual material to be used in the system rather than on a theory about the system. Foskett, (1969) relates the catalogue file to a person's memory in that both contain needed information, and when memory fails and desired information cannot be retrieved the memory or catalogue has failed in its purpose.Sufficient detailed information is necessary to develop an adequate memory which is capable of providing the information required by the users. Classification systems used for book materials are standardized, meet specific criteria, and are widely used by libraries.Foskett (1969) discusses a general classification scheme based on common facets in titles or recurring concepts which form basic classes. He refers tothe scheme as a subject approach to information.Basic. classes are small groups of related subjects which are arranged into main classgroupings In a sequential order. The problem with that approach isthe defining of a main class as related to a basic class; agreement is lacking as to where the basic class ends and the main class begins.Foskett (1969) expresses the problem this way: heat, light, sound,electricity, and magnetism can represent basic classes under the main classof physics; but physics can be combined with chemistry and astronomy to form another class called physical sciences, which can be grouped with biological sciences to form a natural sciences group.The subject approach to classification has been used by Melvil Dewey for theDewey 23

Decimal Classification system, by Paul Otlet and Henri La Fontaine for the Universal Decimal Classification system, by Henry Bliss for the Bibliographic Classification system, by Shiyali Ranganathan for the Colon Classification system, and by Herbert Putman, It. ga., for the Library of Congress Classification system (Foskett, 1969). The classification systems used for non-book materials lack the standardization of the systems used for book materials. Variety exists in the systems because of the nature of various collections and the differences in the stated purpose and use for each collection. The use and purpose of the collection plus the identified informational needs of the users determine the type of classification scheme needed for the collection. Chenhall (1975) suggests the use of "object classes" which are stated in terms of the scholastic discipline of the collection. The use of acronyms for each object class provides a code which could be used in the cataloguing number. The class headings must be meaningful to the set of collections and to the collection users, and the system should be modified as needed for other collections. The classification systems found for collections of textiles and costumes are determined by the use and purpose of the collections and the user needs; therefore, the divisions are not consistent among the systems. Schoephoerster (1977) surveyed the registration systems of eleven museums and eight educational institutions and found all the 24 museums included in the study did maintain subject or category records containing descriptive data, but terminology and categories differed.

Classification System Categories

The divisions and categories suggested in the literature which deal with classification systems for textiles and costumes are: geography, object name, age/sex, date/time period, and technique. Geography. Classifying the geographical location from which an object originated varied from stating general areas such as "Far East", or "Europe" (Judy, 1969; Schoephoerster, 1977; Morrissey, 1978), to listing the country name (Huff, 1945; Wells, 1953; Mailey, 1978; Petters on, 1978), to identifying regions or areas within the country, such as "northern", or "western" (Harrell, 1967). Type of Object/Product Name. Classifications of object names range from listing the general category such as "civil dress", "military dress", orreligious dress" (Huff, 1945); to listing only the specific object name such asskirt'', "dress", or "shoes" (Deshon, 1975); and the use of general categories with the specific object name under the proper headings such as "dresses": "morning", "street", "afternoon", "evening""wedding" (Vondercrone, 1957).Schoephoerster (1977) arranged the classifications for costumes differently using terms such as "bodices", "dresses", "outerwear", or "skirt", with subcategories which identify specifics, for example the subcategories for dresses 25 would include "daytime""evening", "wedding", "special occasion". Judy (1969) used terms to describe body position, such as "headgear",

"neckwear "legwear""footwear", with the specific item named under each body position category.Textile classification for type of object includes terminology such as "function" (Petterson, 1978), "technique" (Malley, 1978), and "form/function/use" (MorrisseY,

1978). Age/Sex. Terminology to designate age/sex used by Schoephoer- ster (1977) includes "women", "men", "boys", "girls", "infants". Judy (1969) uses "men", "women", "children"; Huff (1945) uses "man", "woman", "boy", "girl". The size and diversity of the collection determines how many age/sex categories are established. Age/sex classification is unique to costume classification and is not used with textiles. Date/Time Period. Decade divisions are used for the last 200 years by Schoephoerster (1977), Deshon (1975), and Judy (1969). Vondercrone (1957) and Morrissey (1978) use terms for time period/ style period such as "Empire", "Gay Nineties", "Depression". Cen- tury divisions are used at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (Malley, 1978), while Huff (1945) divided the century into parts such as "first quarter", "first third", "second quarter", "middle or mid-third", "first half". Wells (1953) and Petterson (1977) did not classify objects by date, but did catalogue the information. 26

Technique. Mailey (1978) uses divisions entitled "woven",

"printed" and "embroidered" to describe techniques for textile collections.Morrissey (1978) subdivided the above divisions into specific components, e.g., "printing", "relief techniques", "en- graved", "resist techniques", "stencil".?etterson (1978) wrote about the system at the Costume and Textile Study Center at the University of Washington which incorporates a list of specific terms to identify the technique. Harrell (1967) worked with a collection of Nigerian textiles to document the artistic and technical skills of the textile craftsman, and uses fabric construction and design process to classify similar technique information with very specific subdivisions.

Development of a Classification System

Guidelines for developing a classification system which have been stated in literature are: I.terms must be clear, familiar to users, definable, standardized, and used consistently (Dunn, 1972; Chenhall, 1975; Manning, 1975; Lewis, 1976), classification divisions should be as specific as required by the purpose and use statement for the collection (Dunn, 1972; Buroaw,

1975), the system should provide for the inclusion of new subjects and the deletion of useless subjects (Dunn, 1972), 27 a logical ordering of the main subject classes and logical divisions and subdivisions of each class must be established (Dunn,

1972), and number codes are more desirable than alphabet codes because the former are quicker and easier to use and do not require extensive interpretation (Manning, 1975). Judy states that in order to develop an effective classification scheme consideration must be given to the scope and manner of use of the collection (Foskett, 1969; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975; Stewart,

1976).Vickery (1970) states all the above guidelines are necessary if the system is to be computerized.

Cataloguing

Cataloguing is the process of assigning each object to one or more categories of the classification system and preparing the written record of the information and the location of each object in the collection (Wynar, 1967). The purpose of cataloguing is to allow retrieval of information through the use of the catalogue files which are established in accordance with the stated purpose and use of the collection. Catalogue files, to be of value, must be accessible to a variety of people who need the information, and the files must be easy to use (Judy, 1969; Vickery, 1970; Chenhall, 1975). Chenhall (1975) discusses two problems faced by museum curators 28 who are attempting to establish a catalogue file. One problem is the selection of the classification system to be used in the cataloguing process. The system must be capable of fulfilling the search requests of the potential users. The second problem deals with maintaining consistency of terms used within the catalogue. Chenhall (1975) suggests the use of multiple catalogue cards filed under appropriate subjects as a solution to object placement in a category when more than one category is possible, for example: a beaded dress could be filed under "beadwork" and "clothing"."Any information system should be designed so as to accomplish explicitly stated purposes in the most efficient manner possible" (Chenhall, 1975, page 11).Chenhall (1975) also says that efficient records contain only the information needed to accomplish the purpose of the given record.If a catalogue has several retrieval purposes, then several files are established to meet the needs.

Catalogue Files

Several types of catalogue files were recommended and discussed in literature. 1. The accession/registration file.All the information surrounding the acquisition process is to be recorded and stored in the accession file. Each object has a separate ledger page or file folder for Information pertaining to the acquisition including: accession number; date received; source of acquisition; artist, maker, cultural group, 29 species; title, description; date or time period; exact measurement; condition; price paid; insurance value and date; date recorded and Initials of the recorder (Dudley, el.j., 1958; Burcaw, 1975; Schoephoerster, 1977; Petterson, 1978). The accession file is ordered by accession number. The donor file.The name and address of each source for

objects received by the museum is recorded on a separate entry.Under each name is a record of objects acquired from that source, the date, plus the accession number of each object (Burcaw, 1975; Schoephoer- ster( 1977). The object or category file is an alphabetically arranged cross- reference file including entries for name, material, time period, and any other needed information. Each entry contains complete information on the object and is filed under any part of the information which is to be retrievable from the file (Burcaw, 1975; Schoephoerster, 1977; Petterson, 1978). The document file provides a source of additional papers and information on each item, including all news clippings, letters, photographs, publications, and research reports. The file also includes citations of reference books used to identify the object. The file is arranged by accession number with each accession having a separate file folder for the related information (Burcaw, 1975; Schoephoerster, 1977; Petterson, 1973).In the establishment of the 30 catalogue files, consideration must be given to the information desired from the collection by the users and how to arrange the information for best usage. Chenhall (1975) states that the foundation for information to be placed in the file is the statement of purpose and use of the collection which is agreed upon by the users. A catalogue is a finding device, not a total information containing device. The catalogue must be arranged according to a definite plan. Three systems for arrangement of library materials discussed in the literature are dictionary, divided, and classed. The dictionary catalogue is widely used in libraries and is an alphabetical arrangement of all entries.Users asking informational questions dealing with one specific aspect of the subject rather than a broad subject, find the dictionary catalogue useful. Cross-references such as "see" and "see also" assist the user in locating related topics.As the size of the collection becomes larger, the dictionary catalogue becomes "cumber- some and complex because all the entries are interfiled" (Wynar, 1967, page 13). The divided catalogue came into use as a modification of the complex dictionary catalogue.The divided catalogue became two separate catalogues, one with title and author entries, the other with the subject entries. The user must decide in which catalogue to look to obtain the desired information. The classed catalogue is the oldest form of cataloguing and was used in libraries prior to the dictionary catalogue. The classed catalogue is based on a classification scheme 31 and is arranged alphabetically by class or subject. A major advantage of the classed catalogue is the provision for changing terminology and for adding new entries. Science and technology libraries use the classed catalogue because of the flexibility of the system and the rapid increase and change of information in the science and technology field. Museum catalogue files are based on subject or class content of the collection and correlate with the classification system. The sections of the classification system which are to be retrievable become the topics for arranging the catalogue file (Malley, 1978; Morrissey, 1978). The classed catalogue file is given different names depending on the museum, but is based on areas of the classification system which must be retrievable according to user needs, and the use and purpose statement of the collection, e.g."Curatorial file" (Malley, 1978), and "cross-reference file" (Morrissey, 1978). Educational institutions housing collections of costumes and/for textiles follow the classed catalogue plan, using different terminology to meet the user needs. The files are given such names as"category catalogue file" (Schoephoerster, (1977) or "cross-index file" (Petterson, 1979).

Criteria for Establishing Files

Foskett (1969) discusses several criteria to be considered when establishing an information. retrieval system. 32

Recall and relevance. Recall is the amount of available information on an identified topic.Relevance is subjective and depends upon the needs of the user; when the needs can be more clearly defined, a system can be developed to provide highly relevant sources with a low amount of recall.The classification system must provide for the elimination of information not wanted within the body of available information relating to a given topic. Some of the body of information will be highly relevant, other information will be useful, and the remainder of the information will be marginally relevant to the given topic. Probability of error.Indexers and users are human and increase the probability of error as does a code system containing symbols which exceed nine digits.The code system can be modified to reduce the probability of error by grouping no more than three digits with punctuation such as a dash, period, slash, or colon to break up the sequence, or by using a mixed notation of numbers, symbols, and/ or letters of the alphabet, either high or low case. Each code grouping represents an item of the descriptive data about the object being catalogued. Specificity and exhaustivity. Specificity is "the extent to which the system permits us to be precise when specifying the subject of the document we are processing" (Foskett, 1969, page 21).The more specific a person can be in identifying the subject of a document, the 33 higher the relevance of the defined information. Exhaustivity is the extent to which a document is analyzed to determine subject content. The subjects identified can be weighted or ordered as to the amount of information in the document pertaining to each subject. Ease of use. The classification system must be easy to use by the indexer who is responsible for the information input and by the user who must retrieve the information."A system which presents the user with a set of documents or at least abstracts is likely to be more popular than one which gives merely a string of numbers" (Foskett,

1969, Page 23). Time. Indexing and searching take time. An increased effort in indexing reduces the time required in the searching stage. Search time is reduced by arranging the classification system around known and assumed questions which the users will ask the system. The system should be arranged to give specific answers to specific questions and to refine an ambigious question to help the user locate the needed information. Cost. Decisions surrounding cost should be considered in the context of the situation and the purposes of the system. The more information identified, the greater the initial cost and the more likely the user is to find the needed information at the point of need. 34

Criteria for Evaluating Files

Wynar (1967) discusses criteria which could be used to judge the usefulness of any cataloguing system. Flexibility.Collections are subject to change and the catalogue system should allow for discarding useless information and making new entries of needed information. Labeling. The catalogue should allow for all entries to be found quickly and easily. Adequate labeling of each item with proper notation of location assists in quick and easy retrieval. Lo9ical order.Entries which belong together should be found together in the catalogue file. Economical. The preparation and maintenance of the system should be at a cost which is within reach of the owner of the objects. Cost considerations include additional staff to implement and_maintain the system new materials such as cataloguing forms and photographs, and new equipment for storing the information system. $. form. The catalogue should take up a minimum amount of space and be moveable for consultation or prolonged studyif sufficient room is not available in the present location. Rules governing the cataloguing of books in libraries are explicit as to what is included on the entrycard, where the information is located, and how to handle exceptions to the rules.Rules governing 35 cataloguing of non-book materials in libraries are similar to the book rules with the exception that most entries are descriptive. The catalogue entry for non-book materials should contain the following Information in addition to the information recorded in the registration process: place of origin; marks, labels, seals; medium or material; date received; photograph or sketch; location and description of signature or copyright; exact measurements; condition; history(Dudley

,1958). Additional information may be required for a special collection based on the statement of purpose and use of the collection. Chenhall (1975) suggests guidelines to assist in the development of the document form used in recording the cataloguing information of non-book materials. The first step in achieving an efficient catalogue system is the designing of adequate record forms following the steps suggested by Chen.hall: Avoid re-doing work.Prepare the rough draft and then do the final form with the necessary corrections.Unnecessary time is wasted In the preparation of several rough draft forms. Consider the flow of information to be recorded and group related categories. Similar information about the object should be located together on the form. The most important information about the object should be listed toward the top of the form. The information considered most important is based on user needs or possible retrieval information. 36

After the rough draft is completed, estimate the space needs for each category and allow double spacing between categories to avoid cramping the information. Preprint on the forms all fixed data which will be the same for all objects in the collection, e.g. the name of the collection, or the name of the institution housing the collection. 3. Design the form for the specific collection. When designing forms for more than one collection, eliminate the areas not needed for one collection and add the areas needed for the other collection.

Catalogue Systems

Catalogue systems can be pre-coordinated or post-coordinated. The pre-coordinated systems of cataloguing are methods which allow for the listing of all simple subjects likely to be needed, and to com- bine or relate the subjects as necessary for retrieval.Catalogue systems which are pre-coordinated include the Decimal Classification system, the Bibliographic Classification system, the Colon Classifi- cation system, and the Library of Congress Classification system. Post-coordinated catalogue systems allow for combination of the simple subjects at the retrieval stage. Term entry and item entry systems are examples of post-coordinated catalogue systems. Term entry allows for each separate term to be identified about the object, providing a separate entry for each term.Examples of the term entry system are 3 7

Uniterm index and Peek-a-boo or optical coincidence cards. The terms are coded and the number recorded or punched out on thecard to provide means of identification. Common terms are identified by locating the same number on other Uniterm cards or by observing the light through common holes on the Peek-a-boo or optical coincidence cards. Item entry allows for one entry per object with all terms identified on the one e try.Item entry systems such as edge notched cards and machine sorted punch cards require that the terms be assigned code numbers which are then punched or notched on the edges of the card or within the main body of the card. To locate the desired information on the edge notched cards, a needle-like device is inserted into the hole representing the desired information. The cards not containing the information are held by the needle and the remaining cards fall away from the file, thus the objects with the desired information are identified.The machine sorted punch cards also require codes to identify the descriptive data. Holes are punched in predetermined locations to represent the information. The machine is given instructions to locate and to process the cards, returning the ones with the desired information identified (Wyman, 1967). Skewes (1975) surveyed retrieval systems for historic costume collections and found-the following information catalogued at the

152 museums: 38

item of information: percent: source of acquisition 78.95 accession number 77 . 63 description 76.32 date or period 73.03 condition 65.13 fabric or construction 63.15 date received 62.33 exact size/measurement 39 . 47 designer/store purchased 36.18 purchase price 3 2.24 date accepted 3 1 . 58 photo and/or negative number 30 . 26 date recorded/initials 27 . 63 insurance value 17.76 catalogue number if different 15. 13 history 12.50 sketch of object 7.89 location 3.95 references 3.29 restoration done/needed 3.29 function 3.29 no response 19.08 Cross-referencing is necessary for retrieval of specific data and the need for cross-referenced files is based on the statement of purpose and use of the collections. Skewes (1975) found 44 percent of the responding museums did cross-reference some of the categories, and 34 percent did not cross-reference any of the categories. Categories cross-referenced were: categories percent type of costume 73.13 source of acquisition 55 . 22 accession number and date 52 . 24 order by date of item 31.34 country or culture 28.26 donor 13.43 designer/store purchased 13.34 39

categories percent location 7.46 fabric/type of construction 5.97 no response 1.49

Computerized Files

The use of a computer in museum cataloguing is a new idea to the late 1960's and early 1970's, and one which seems to be still in the future. Many people question the value of using the computer because of the high cost of hardware (Chenhall, 1975).The computerized catalogue file is technically possible and would be an effective and efficient tool only if the documentation is carefully screened in terms of "need to know" before the information is entered into the computer. The computer is capable of storing vast amounts of information, sorting the information, and producing at high speeds any information needed for retrieval.The computer file should contain the most often used information with the remaining information kept in other files, since current costs prohibit storage of all information about each object. The process for developing the computer catalogue is much the same as for developing any manual catalogue file of information (Chenhall, 1975). Adequate identification and documentation of each object is necessary, as is a controlled vocabulary. The information is placed into the computer with the instructions for use. The computer is capable of performing a file search and retrieving the desired 40

Information, making calculations, sorting and summarizing desired information, and producing a report of the information (Martin, Jr., Perkins, 1973; Chenhall, 1975). With all of the advantages, Chenhall (1975) predicts within the next ten years most museums will be using the computer for the catalogue file as will other institutions having collections. New developments in the technology of the computer will decrease the cost, making possible the purchase of equipment without large expense. Chenhall (1975) predicts the computer catalogue system will be the major cataloguing procedure for the future.

Summary

Identifying each object within the collection in such a manner that user needs are met, and the object is retrievable, is the major problem facing every curator, regardless of collection size. Each object is registered or accessioned to provide basic identification and gives the object a unique place within the collection. A classification system should be as specific as required to fulfill the purpose and use of the collection and needs of users.Cataloguing is the process of identifying an object using the classification system so the object is retrievable. The amount and type of information recorded about each object is dependent on the collection and the needs of the primary users. Procedures established must meet user needs.Files established and records kept vary from collection to collection because of the way 41 in which the collection is used, e.g. , display, teaching resource, study, or research. The computer is one method of storing and using the catalogue file.Information used frequently can be stored in the computerized file, with all other information stored in manual files due to high costs of storing all information in the computer. The purpose and use of collections and user needs are bases for information recorded in registering and cataloguing processes, categories and divisions of the classifying system, and procedures used for establishing records and files and their informational content. A statement of purpose and use of the collection and identification of user needs are the first two tasks facing a curator who desires to develop a classifying and cataloguing system. Next the classification system can be established and the files of information needed can be defined.Procedures developed are then based on the collection nd user needs. The purpose of the cataloguing procedure is to assign each object of the collection a unique place in the system so retrievability is possible. 42

III.Procedure

Classifying and cataloguing are two important processes in the preservation and use of any collection.The classification system must contain information which relates to the specific type of collection and to the use of the collection. The information to be obtained by the user and examples to be retrieved from the collection are made possible through the selected classifying and cataloguing systems and procedures. The objectives for the present study were to develop: classifying and cataloguing systems based on a statement of purpose and use for the world and historic collections of textiles, costumes, and slides and on the identified user needs, classifying and cataloguing systems which could be used for the collections of world and historic costumes, textiles, and slides with allowance for future expansion, a cataloguing system which would allow users to retrieve examples of any identified characteristic, criteria for evaluating the classifying and cataloguing systems, and

S.a procedure for evaluating the catalogue system after implementation.

Development of the Purpose and Use Statement

The purpose and use statement for any collection becomes the 43 foundation for identifying the classification categories to be established and the information to be retrievable through the catalogue (Chenhall, 1975). The specific purpose and use of the Oregon State University Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts (CTRA) Department collections of historic and world textiles, costumes, and slides was defined to provide the basis for the classification system. The specific purpose and use were identified through reading, letters to other universities and museums with textile and/or costume collections, and in consultation with the CTRA faculty.Faculty members were asked about current usage of the collections, areas of the collections used, possible future use of the collections, and the function or purpose of having the collections.

Identification of User Needs

Current user needs were identified by interviewing faculty members who use the collections to determine which areas of the historic and world costumes, textiles, and slides collections were used and the types of information needed about the items within the collections. The interviews dealt with the problems encountered in using the present classifying and cataloguing systems, the advantages of the present systems which should be retained, the use of the collections, the classification areas which are not currently identified, and the nature of slide collections located in the faculty offices.Questions 44

regarding the slide collections dealtwith ownership, content, and use. The two faculty members who use the collections most frequently were interviewed a second time to identify specific detailed information needed and the basis for needing the information (See Appendix B, page 136).The expressed needs of users became the basis for the classification system content, divisions and subdivisions, and type and degree of detail.User needs were assessed to determine which categories of the classification system were to be retrievable.

Development of the Classifying and Cataloguing Systems

A classification system provides for the iriformationto be identified for each object within the collection while a cataloguesystem allows for information to be present in the system for theuser to retrieve regarding any object within the collection. Analysis of the present classifying and cataloguing systems was made to determine problem areas and how the current systems meet or failed to meet the stated purpose and use of the collection and the general criteria for classifying and cataloguing systems which were identified in the literature.Identification was made of the divisions and subdivisions of the present system. Comparison of the present classificationsys- tem was made with the stated needs of users for specific information, noting categories not present in the current system and categories providing insufficient detail of information. The catalogue system was 45 evaluated on the basis of information retrievable and compared to stated user needs for retrievable information. The classification system must meet a given set of criteria which allows fulfillment of the use and purpose statement for the collections and the expressed needs of users. The review of literature assisted in identification of criteria used for evaluating classification systems.Criteria were adapted for application to the classification system developed by the investigator for the Oregon State University CTRA Department collections of world and historic costumes, textiles, and slides in consultation with major users,and interviews with curators of other museums and university collections. Criteria were then adapted from literature for application to the cataloguing system developed by the investigator for the CTRA De- partment collections at Oregon State University. Investigation of classifying and cataloguing systems used by other institutions housing collections of costumes and textiles was made by letter and by personal visit.Letters were sent to CTRA Departments and museums known to have study collections of textiles and/or costumes.(See Appendix C, page 137).Personal visits were made to collections of costumes and/or textiles located within 300 miles of Oregon State University (See Appendix D, page

140). Questions were asked which dealt with statements of purpose and use, the classification system presently in use, the 46 divisions and subdivisions of the classification system, the handling of detailed descriptive data, the advantages and disadvantages of the present systems, the types of collections and whether each had a separate classification system or were combined, cataloguing procedures used, types of files maintained, and criteria used for evaluating the systems. The resulting information assisted in the development of the classifying and cataloguing systems for the Oregon State University CTRA Department collections of world and historic textiles, costumes, and slides.Identification of the general use and purpose of any classification system was made through reading current literature, and a better understanding was achieved of the relationship of the collection to the selected system. The current literature also provided the means for determining whether or not closely related collections could be classified by the same system, closely related systems, or different systems. The information to be included in the cataloguing system and categories to be retrievable were determined on the basis of faculty interviews and the expressed needs of the users of the collection. Questions were asked which dealt with desired information about each object, and the information to be retrievable or cross-indexed (See Appendix E, page 141).The statement of use and purpose for 47 the collections and the identified user needs were the basis for analyzing each classifying and cataloguing system found in literature and in use in other institutions housing clothing and/or textile study collections. Robert Chenhall's (1975) classification and catalogue systems were selected and adapted to meet user needs and conform to the purpose and use statement for the CTRA collections at Oregon State University.Forms were developed for cataloguing the information about each object.Retrievable categories were established and identified with example lists to control the vocabulary in classifying each object.Card forms were developed for the catalogue files recommended for establishment and cross-referencing.

Development of the Classifying and Cataloguing Procedures

Personal visits and letters to other institutions assisted in the establishment of procedures for classifying and cataloguing the collections. Identification was made of the purpose and use of each collection either stated or implied, and the procedures used for cataloguing. Procedures identified in literature were considered as these procedures related to the purpose and use statement for the CTM collections at Oregon State University. Procedures for the CTRA collections were adapted and established based on the purpose and use statement developed by the 48 investigator, the information requested by users and for administrative purposes and recommendations made by Robert Chenhall (1975) whose cataloguing system was adapted for use at Oregon State University. Card and folder files were established based on user needs, retrievable information was identified based on expressed user needs, and example term lists were developed for the retrievable data fields to maintain consistency in recording information.Rules were established for use of the system to maintain consistency and provide for continuity.

Criteria were developed for establishing and evaluating the classifying and cataloguing systems. The evaluation was conducted with the assistance of the CTRA faculty. Each person completed the appropriate forms for three objects from each of the following collections: world costumes and textiles and historic textiles; historic costumes; and slides of textiles and costumes. A total of nine objects were catalogued. An evaluation form was then completed by each person to determine how well the systems achieved the established criteria. A procedure for testing and evaluating the catalogue was developed and recommended for use after the collections have been catalogued on the new system. 49

IV.Presentation of Results

The purpose of the study was to develop and recommend foruse a system and procedure for classifying and cataloguing the collections of world and historic costumes, textiles, and slides of the Oregon State University Clothing, Textile, and Related Arts (CTPA) Depart- ment. The information presented in this chapter deals with: the development of the purpose and use statement for the CTRA collections at Oregon State University. the identification of CTRA user needs, the analysis of the present systems and procedures for classifying and cataloguing the collections, the development of the classifying and cataloguing criteria, the proposed classifying and cataloguing system, the proposed classifying and cataloguing procedures, evaluation of the classifying and cataloguing system, and recommended test and evaluation of the catalogue after implementation.

Purpose and Use Statement Development

Faculty Interviews

The manner of use and the purpose for maintaining a collection 50 must be stated in explicit terms in order for an informational system to be developed and to function in an efficient manner. The faculty of the CTRA Department were interviewed to identify how the collections were currently used, and the potential use for the future. Four faculty members were identified as current users of the collections, with two of the current users teaching courses specifically related to the collections, and two current users utilizing the collections as illustrative materials in other courses. Three additional faculty members were identified as potential users who discussed ways of using items from the collection at some point in the future (See Appendix B, page 136).The faculty interviewed were asked questions dealing with functions of the collections, reasons for having a catalogue system, use of the collections, and reasons for classifying and cataloguing CTRA collections (See Appendix E, page 141 ).

Functions ot,the Collections The major function of the Oregon State University CTRA collections was identified as that of a teaching resource by the four users and the three potential users. Research was the second most frequently mentioned function of the collections. Currently, the collections are not used in research because the collection holdings are not adequate nor is space available, but the collections do 51 furnish the motivation for research such as the thesis done by Wells (1953), and the present study. Costume and textile collections do provide motivation for research as was discussed by Duffield (1978) at the 1978 Historic Costume and Textile Workshop.

Reasons for Cataloguing The faculty identified ease of retrieval and item identification as the two most mentioned reasons for having a catalogue system for any collection. Identifying collection contents and inventory control were next, with insurance purposes ranking as the least often mentioned reason for having any cataloguing system. The users listed a variety of reasons for classifying and cataloguing costumes and textiles including retention of information over time, exchanging information among instructors and between institutions, and pinpointing specific features.Potential users identified availability of recorded detailed information as the reason for having classifying and cataloguing systems for costumes and textiles.

Use of Collectionq Use of the collections by CTRA users was for class instruction or display. One potential user desired to broaden the use of the collections to include student study, documentation, and possible research when the collection is of sufficient size.Greater use was 52 made of the costumes and textiles than of slides. A few faculty members stated that they prefer artifacts to illustrate the desired information. The slide collections supplement rather than duplicate the costumes and textiles in the present collections.Slides were used to provide the students with a broader exposure to the topic of discussion or to review artifact characteristics. One user preferred the slide collection as the main source of illustrative material sup- plementing with textiles or costumes when possible. Faculty used the historic costumes and world textiles more than any other area of the collections.In addition to the courses which are taught on the above mentioned areas, the historic costumes were used by other faculty members for courses in garment construction, draping, and flat pattern as sources for techniques, fabrics, and inspiration.The world textiles were used as design inspiration for textile weaving courses and fashion design as well as examples of technique and design. Relevancy of the collection to course content and ease of item location influenced the use of the collection by the faculty, especially potential users. Several potential users indicated that they were not using the collections because locating the desired item was too time consuming with the present system. Often new faculty users desiring to locate an item would ask an established faculty user about the existence and possible location of a specific item, since 53 the desired information was not recorded and retrievable in the present catalogue system. Potential users projected greater use would be made of historic textiles slides and world costumes than did current users, reflecting their lack of knowledge of the scope of the collection which is weak in the areas of historic textiles slides and world costumes. Greater use will undoubtedly be made of all the collections when the detailed information is catalogued and a system which is easy to use for retrieval of detailed information is implemented. Increased knowledge and use by potential users interviewed is projected to be in the following areas: historic costume, historic textiles, historic textile slides, world costumes, world textiles, and world textile slides.No potential user projected use of historic costume slides or world costume slides.Potential users stated the use of the collections was based on course content areas which could be illustrated with items from the collection. Use will be influenced by familiarity with the collections and the catalogue system. One potential user expressed need for a seminar to acquaint faculty with the system and the collection contents. The investigator recommends holding a seminar after the system has been implemented to acquaint the CTRA faculty with the new system and the collection contents. 54 Letters and Visits Letters were sent to educational institutions and museums housing costume and textile collections to identify the purpose and use of collections. Response to the question dealing with the purpose and use of collections revealed the following: collections were used for educational instruction, study, research, and display.Curators of educational institutions stated the major use was for instructional resources while study and research were secondary uses. Museum curators emphasized use for display. The information classified and catalogued in museums differed from information classified and catalogued in the educational institutions; the difference being the degree of detailed information recorded. The museum collections were catalogued by provenence, date, and object name; while the educational institution collections were catalogued and cross-referenced by specific detailed information such as construction techniques, motif, surface design, and fiber content in addition to provenance, date and object name.

Purpose and Use of CTRA Collections The purpose and use of the world and historic costumes, textiles, and slides at Oregon State University was defined as a teaching resource with possible future use as a student study collection. The purpose and use statement allowed for use of the collections in display, assistance in public service talks, loan to Horner Museum for 55 display, faculty pleasure and interest, and future unanticipated use. A purpose and use statement was developed and recommended for adoption by the CTRA Department of Oregon State University.(See Appendix F, page 144).

Identification of User Needs

Great consideration must be given to the informational needs of the users of collections before establishing a classifying and cataloguing system. The informational needs of users become the basis for determining what information to classify and what to make retrievable in the system. The needs of the current users were identified through interviews to determine information needed which the present system did not provide, divisions and subdivisions needed to retrieve desired information, problems encountered with present systems, and advantages of present systems to be retained (See Appendix G, page

146).

Informa4on Desired by Users Information desired by users which was not available within the present systems dealt with specific descriptive data. Users desired more information about techniques in garment construction, design application, and fabric construction.(See Appendix H, page 148). Consistency of detail of information available on file card was desired by one user. 56

The diversity of courses taught which draw on the collections for illustrative materials resulted in much of the desired retrievable information being requested by just one user. The retrievable information desired was consisteat with information recorded at other institutions with collections of costumes and textiles used for study and research and therefore was recommended for inclusion in the present system. The information will be useful to the present faculty and also in the future when the collections become of sufficient size for research. Course content was the basis for retrievable information desired.Users desired to retrieve information by both country and specific culture. Country names change with time, while the cultural name remains constant with the existence of the specific culture.Users teaching courses in garment construction desired to retrieve details of garment construction such as types of collars, sleeves, seams, and silhouette; techniques of fabric construction; and design movements and inspirational concepts. Users teaching costume courses desired additional retrievable information which related to historic and world costumes such as item name, date, age and sex of wearer, designer, and whether the garment was worn by a special person such as king, sailor, or vendor, or used for a special occasion such as wedding or funeral.Users who taught courses based on textiles and weaving desired to retrieve items by 7 motif and tools or equipment in addition to techniques of fabric construction and design, and prove nence and culture. The present classifying and cataloguing systems have good features which the users desired to have in the new systems including the costume descriptions and dates, country designations for costumes and textiles, and the relative ease of locating the desired object in storage. The most frequently mentioned problem to be solved was the need for detailed descriptive data which are cross- indexed. Other problems users desired to have solved included accessioning objects prior to cataloguing, use of the same system for textiles, costumes, and slides; information on techniques; and a file system which would be easy to use to identify and locate desired items. Experienced users often go to textile storage drawers or costume closets to locate items because less time is required and catalogue files are awkward to use; yet this same procedure is time consuming for new users unfamiliar with the collection.

Information Desired by Potential Users Potential users were asked about familiarity with the present systems. One potential user had no contact with the present system, another was familiar with the historic costume system, and the third was not familiar with the system but with the collections. The third potential user stated the caMlogue system was not helpful for general use and lacked background information on garments. The potential 58 users who were familiar with the present systemsrequested additional information which related to courses taught to be included in the new classifying and cataloguing system.Courses taught by potential users were from the design area of the departmentand therefore these users desired information recorded for period designationsfor furniture; object use; artist, architect, designer, monarch; categoriesfor metal, glass, earthenware; and a cataloguing system which would allow for greater use of all items.

Second Interviews The two users who taught courses directly related to the collections such as world costumes and historic textiles wereinterviewed a second time to identify specific informationneeded for describing place of origin, fabric, color, motif, sex, age, measurements, and object name. The question was also asked:"Given all the information about an object, what information do you wantretrievable about a costume? About a textile? And what is the basis for needing the information?"(See Appendix I, Page 150). The primary basis for desiring retrieval of specific information was course content.The two users interviewed the second time both identified the desire for retrievable information dealing with time period, provenance, culture, item name or title, construction techniques of garments and fabrics, and fiber content.Additional retrievable items identified by one user were oftensupported by 59

other faculty users interviewed previously or by personnel at other institutions with clothing and textile collections used for study and research.Information included age, sex, special person, special occasion; design techniques; motifs; designer; tools and equipment. Object value was requested retrievable for administrative purposes and inventory control. Specific information was identified by the two major users to be recorded about each object. The two major users requested that place of origin information be separated into political and cultural areas listing the continent, country, state or island group, island, city or town, and site name for the political origin, and culture area or cultural group for the cultural origin.Specific information about fabrics included fiber content, yarn construction, fabric construction, fabric finish, and fabric name. Identification was desired of the four predominant colors along with the method of color application, dye source, and type of dye. One user suggested that a textile with more than four colors be listed as a multi-colored object.Identification was requested about textile design, with specification of whether the design was structural or applied, and how the design was achieved. Motif identification, method of application, and arrangement was desired for the two or three predominant motifs on the object. Age and sex designations were requested with subdivisions for "child", 60

"adult", "male", "female". One user requested a subdivision for "infant" while the other user requested an "unknown" subdivision. Course content needs were the basis for the subdivisions requested. Garment measurements were not needed by the users for teaching purposes, but the information was identified as useful to assist in identification should an item be lost or stolen.Garment sizes are not useful cross culturally and therefore, use of another method of measurement was suggested. Designations for garment type included division by outer garments, under garments, and coats and wraps (including cape, coat, wrap, man's coat).Each category was divided and subdivided to provide the specific garment name. Additional Information desired by one user and supported by previous faculty interview requests or other institutions include special use, special person, and textile tools such as looms and wheels. Based on the preceeding expressed user needs a list of record- able information desired for each object was developed.(See Appendix H, page 146) The information to be cross-indexed and retrieved was based on the expressed needs of the users, and was recommended for inclusion in the catalogue files.

Analysis of Present Systems

An effective classifying and cataloguing system makes possible the efficient location of desired information and results in greater use 61 of the collections by more persons.Present users expressed frustration with the systems used currently to classifyand catalogue costumes and textiles because objects could not beaccessioned until classifying was completed and retrieval of items was difficult due to Insufficient information in the system and lack of a cross-index. Potential users find other sources for illustrative examples because attempting to locate examples from the collection was difficult,if not impossible.Potential users would be more likely to use the collections if the classifying and cataloguing system werecross-indexed and easier to use. One faculty member has a goodknowledge of the collection contents and is often asked about the existenceof an item and where the item might be stored.Providing the needed information is not always possible since it is humanlyimpossible to remember all 1004 items and because of the way items are currentlycatalogued and stored.

Present Systems Identified Historic Costumes. The present system used forclassifying and cataloguing historic costumes was developed andestablished in the early 1950's and includes classification of costumesby time period, and type of garment including specific item name, and sexof wearer.

(See AppendixT Page 151) A catalogue cardis prepared for each item. The catalogue number consists of codes fordecade, type of 62 garment, item sequence within the decade, and sex. The last three digits of the date are used in the first position of the catalogue number, followed by a code designation for type of garment, e.g. OG designates an outer garment, UG means under garment, CW refers to coats and wraps, and ACC identifies accessories. The third part of the catalogue number is the sequence number of the item within the time category; therefore the recorder must search the file to determine the item number for each new object. The last section of the catalogue number is used for sex designation. A blank designates a female's garment and M stands for non-women's item. The catalogue number 890ACC3 would be found on an item from 1890-1899, which is an accessory, the third one received for the Gay Nineties time period, and a woman's item.Provision was made on the file card for recording a description which includes information on fabric, color, details in silhouette, neckline, sleeves, bodice, skirt, and decorative trim, but the information was not consistently recorded. Other information also recorded about each item on the file card includes item name, condition, donor, remarks, and storage location. The historic costume file cards are organized by time period, then by garment type, then by catalogue number. Labels are prepared for each item containing the catalogue number, period, date, item name, and other pertinent information such as donor, and price. The cross-reference file makes little provision for retrieval of any of the descriptive 63 information recorded about each item. Retrieval can be accomplished by time period and garment item only. The system will have to be revised 1000 years after the date of the earliest costume due to the format of the date designator. World Costumes, World and Historic Textiles. A system was developed by Wells in the 1950's for world costumes and world and historic textiles. The catalogue number given each object results from classifying the object into five groups which designate major classification, geographic location, sequence within each country, complete item or part of a set, number of items in set or pairs.(See

Appendix K, page 153)In the catalogue number 13.1.3 .A .1, the "13" is the major classification code for costume - women's, "J" is the geographic location representing Japan, "3" means the item is the third in the collection from Japan, "A" means the item is complete but belongs to a set of objects, and "1" means the set contains more than one item, usually a pair.The catalogue system involves recording information in three books and on one Unisort Analysis file card for each item, preparing a label for each object, and assigning the item to a storage location. The information cross-indexed on the Unisort card follows the major classification group and the geographic location. Descriptive information includes weave, fiber, yarn construction, colors, method of color application, and design and symbolism. The descriptive information is not cross-indexed in 64 any form and is not always recorded on the Unisort Analysis file card because no one has assigned time for analyzing or documenting the collection. The catalogue file contains the Unisort Anaiysis file cards and is arranged alphabetically by geographic location. The cards are edge notched in order to cross reference type of product. Labels made of press-on mending tape are prepared for each item containing information on catalogue number, acquisition date, storage location, provenance, name of article, and date of origin.Items are stored in drawers following the geographic classification. Slides. A classifying and cataloguing system has not been developed for the department's collection of slides of world and historic textiles and costumes. The slide collection is divided and stored in faculty offices according to courses taught relating to world and historic textiles and costumes. Historic costume slides are stored in file drawers by geographic area and country.Historic textile slides are filed chronologically, and then (when applicable) by geographic area and country. A large collection of world textile slides was donated to the department and the slides are classified by time period, location, source of slide, and technique, with several slides having the same identification code. No written information identifying codes used accompanied the donated slides. Slide content and origin is not always identified on the border of the slide and no file card existed for slide identification, except for one 65 portion of the collection which was classified and catalogued according to a system devised by the faculty user.The file cards indicate classification of the slides by country, date, and technique with citations for the purpose of documentation. Slides belonging to a faculty member are interfiled with slides belonging to the department. Ownership is clearly marked for one portion of the slide collection while the remainder of the slide collection can be separated according to type of slide mount. The investigator recommends establishing a central storage area for the slide collection so that greater use can be made of the slides by all CTRA faculty.

Evaluation of Present System A classifying and cataloguing system should fulfill the stated purpose and use of the collection and should meet the user needs for retrieval.Users were interviewed to determine problems with the present systems, and desires for the new informational system including information to be recorded and retrievable. Collections are used as teaching resources according to the proposed purpose and use statement.Present systems of classifying and cataloguing do not allow users to retrieve objects from collections on basis of detailed descriptive data used in classroom situations. The present classifying and cataloguing systems fail to meet collection use as teaching resources adequately because 66 objects and slides are not retrievable by detailed descriptive data. Collections are also used for display to illustrate design elements and period costumes. The present classifying and cataloguing systems do allow for costumes to be retrieved by date and country but not by design elements or techniques. The present classifying and cataloguing systems fail to meet completely the display use needs for design elements in the collections because objects are not retrieved by design elements or techniques. The current system is sufficient for general display use and retrieval. The purpose of the collections is preservation of cultural and historical items of value and interest for teaching, display, and future unanticipated needs. The present classifying and cataloguing system allows for the recording of some information relevant to the collected objects and does meet the purpose of maintaining the collection. The major need of users expressed through interviews was recording of specific descriptive data and subject-indexing to allow for retrieval of information.Descriptive data are recorded for historic costumes, but the system does not allow for the information to be cross-indexed or easily retrieved. Some descriptive data are recorded for world costumes and textiles and historic textiles, but are not cross-indexed or retrievable. Retrievable information for historic costume includes time period and type of garment, while for 67 historic textiles, world textiles and costumes retrievable information consists of geographic location and major classification.Slides are are retrievable only by country and/or date. Need was expressed for costumes, textiles, and slides to be classified and catalogued using the same system so information could be shared within the department and with other institutions. The current classifying and cataloguing systems fail to meet the need for a single system since historic costumes are classified and catalogued on a system separate from historic textiles, world costumes and textiles, and slides have no established system except for the individual storage arrangements used by the faculty members. Desire for consistency of detail of information on all objects is another need not met by the present classifying and cataloguing system.No system currently in use provides for retrieval of descriptive information which may be recorded about the costumes and textiles. Cross-indexing of detailed information was requested by users for easier retrieval of desired objects. Current retrieval is possible by date and/or country only. The needs of users are not met by present classifying and cataloguing systems. Easier use of the system and file was requested by several users.Currently costumes and textiles must be catalogued before the identification number can be recorded. Request was made for accessioning objects before cataloguing, which the present systems 68 do not allow. Searching for an object using the present file requires knowledge of the country or date of object desired and then a hand sorting of cards to determine if descriptive features are illustrated by the object. Adequate space is not available for use of the files which are kept on top of storage cabinets along with many other items such as boxes, books, and uncatalogued objects, Other expressed user needs which the present classifying and cataloguing systems do not meet include bibliographic citation for documentation, and easy item identification for inventory control and insurance purposes. Needs expressed which are beyond the scope of the present study deals with inadequate storage facilities. The principal problems with the present system are the lack of descriptive data recorded, lack of subject-indexed information desired retrievable by users, lack of ease of accessioning, and lack of a common system for costumes, textiles, and slides. According to the expressed needs and desires of the faculty the new system should have the following characteristics: complete descriptions dates country culture - specific ease in locating object accession then catalogue provision for slides on same system as textiles and costumes more permanent form so cards can not be easily removed from file good location for using catalogue cards 69

detailed descriptive data identified and subject-indexed fabric - fiber(s), type, construction methods, weave garment - style, form, construction details color - identified, method of application design - techniques motifs - methods of application, symbolism It is likely that a new classifying and cataloguing system would re- suit in greater use of the collections if the system were easy to use.

Development of Criteria for Evaluating the Proposed Classifying and Cataloguing System

Introductiort An effective classifying and cataloguing system meets the needs of the users and fulfills the purpose and use statement of the collections.Criteria were developed to evaluate the extent to which the proposed classifying and cataloguing system would provide for the needs of users and meet the purpose and use statement of the collections.Criteria were identified from literature which would be used to evaluate the system.In addition, statements of criteria from other institutions housing collections of clothing and textiles were investigated. Consideration was given to the requests of the users regarding characteristics of the classifying and cataloguing systems. The criteria were evaluated in light of the purpose and use statement and the expressed needs of users and adapted for the Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts (CTRA) classifying and cataloguing system. Criteria were established for consideration in 70 developing the classifying and cataloguing system, evaluating the classifying and cataloguing system after development, arid for evaluating the catalogue system after implementation.

Criteria Identified in Literature

The true test of a classifying and cataloguing system is whether or not the items can be retrieved.Filing or storing an item is easy; the challenge is filing so the item can be found (Martin, 1973). A classifying and cataloguing system should be developed with consideration given to the following ten points:

1.Size, scope, and use of the collection (Harty, 1958; Foskett, 1969; Vickery, 1970; Dunn, 1972; Weihs, et. al. 1973; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975; Stewart, 1976).The size, scope, and use of the collection determines the categories and subdivisions of each category established, and the information to be retrievable.Harty (1958) states that the larger and more diversified the collection, the more complex the classifying system. Chenhall (1975) and Dunn (1972) said the system should meet the statement of use for the collection. The scope of the collection influences the categories established, since some categories suitable for one collection may not be usable for another, or the meaning and subdivisions may change. Construc- tion techniques for costumes may deal with "sleeves," "seams," "closures," while for textile collections "fabric construction" and 71

1'motif" would become typical subdivisions.The size and use of the collection influences the categories established and the breakdown of the categories to provide the needed information for retrieval of desired objects. A collection used primarily for display will have general categories such as country, date, and object name, while a collection used for study will need specific categories such as country, subdivided to identify the specific town or village; culture, to define the specific ethnic group; and date, to designate when the object was made. 2. Appropriate categories.It is important to establish comprehensive but relevant categories and subcategories which can be revised as needed (Harty, 1958; Foskett, 1969; Vickery, 1970; Dunn, 1972; Martin, 1973; Weihs, 21.. al. 1973; Burcaw, 1975; Chenhall, 1975; Lewis, 1976). The categories should be as comprehensive as required to meet the use and purpose statement of the collection and user needs. Vickery (1970) recommends not spending time and money to record information which will not be used or retrieved.Not all retrieval questions can be known prior to establishing the system, but many can be anticipated by knowing user needs and the use of the collection (Foskett, 1969). Lewis (1976) states that relevant categories are the ones used in searching the file to answer user questions for object retrieval. The system should provide the user with the desired information in a usable form and the system should 72 be revised as needed to meet the user needs more efficiently (Vickery, 1970). Use of relevant categories and subdivisions producesa catalogue full of useful information and avoidsunnecessary work in classifying and cataloguing an object.If categories or subdivisions are used which are meaningless to the collection or to the user needs, time is wasted and useless records are produced which take up valuable space. The more specific one can be in recording information about the object, the greater will be the relevance of retrieved information (Vickery, 1970). Meets user needs.In order for any system to be useful, provision must be made for needs of users (Chenhall, 1975; Lewis, 1976).Retrieval questions asked and kind of information users need to know should be the basis for information recorded in the system. Information recorded and retrieved must readily provide the user with the location and accession number of the desired object from the collection. Terminology common to users.Simple, standardized, and definable terminology should be selected (Vickery, 1970; Dunn, 1972; Chenhall, 1975; Manning, 1975; Lewis, 1976). Terms used in the system should be common to the discipline field of the collections and defined as used in the discipline field.Terms should be meaningful to collection users and controlled by using established lists. Term lists must be corrected as necessary to provide meaningful 73 information for the users. Term lists are used by recorders to maintain consistency in describing the object. Term lists assist the user in searching the information system to obtain the desired object by providing proper words to use. Ease of use. The system should be easy to use for the recorder and for the retriever (Foskett, 1969). Time spent is not a determining factor in evaluating ease of use.For the user to find the desired item, much time must be spent by the recorder to identify and place within the record that information the user may need. The system is easy to use when the recorder is able to record specific information required, and when the user is able to retrieve the desired object from the collection. Ease of use is increased through adequate description of objects, specifically describing and recording all needed information about the object, and subject-indexing the information desired for retrieval by the users. Cost of implementing the system. The financial expense of the system should be within the reach of the collection owner, but should not be the only cost consideration (Foskett, 1969).Contem- plation of expense must include considering the organization of the collection so items can be found, as opposed to not finding the item at ail, or finding the item after point of need. Retrieval time. The more time spent at the indexing stage, the less time will be spent in the searching and retrieval stage. 74

Relevant specific information recorded and cross-indexed will provide the user with specific answers to retrieval questions.If the retrieval questions are ambiguous, the system can help the user re- define the question by including "see" and "see also", so information can be located. Consistent use of terminology for categories, subdivisions and description must be maintained (Chenhall, 1975).Consistent use of terminology reduces the amount of time spent in locating the desired item and gives the user a guide to follow in locating items. Consistent use of terms is especially important when the system is computerized. The computer makes no more distinction between singular and plural forms of the same word or past and present tense of the same word, than between terms such as "bark cloth" and "zipper closure". Flexibility.The system should be flexible to include new added information and to allow for exclusion of uselss information without destroying the system (Wynar, 1967; Foskett, 1969; Vickery,

1970; Dunn, 1972). Logical organization. The system should be organized in

a logical manner (Wynar, 1967; Vickery, 1970; Dunn, 1972; Chenhall,

1975). 75

Categories must be organized in a logical manner, since the logical- ly organized system will be easier to use than one which is randomly organized.Information belonging together should be found together for easier use and retrieval. Chenhall (1975) preferred a hier- archical structure within the category division, and developed a classifying nomenclature which meets this criterion (Chenhall, 1978).

Criteria Used by Other Institutions

Information on criteria used in educational institutions and museums housing collections of costumes and textiles was obtained through letter, personal visits, and reading of theses. Many criteria used in the institutions were the same as identified from the literature search. The criteria identified in literature but not used by the institutions investigated include: time needed for retrieval of an object cost considerations logical organization of the system. Four additional criteria discussed by Hoskin (1975) which were not included in other literature nor used by other institutions include: placement of an object in the system should be objective, subdivisions of the system should be mutually exclusive, the system should allow for describing the object, not for Interpreting information about the object, and 76

4.divisions and subdivisions of the system should showno generic relationship to previous divisions and are not weightedin importance.

System Characteristics Requested by Users

Interviews with faculty users and potentialusers resulted in identification of some desired characteristics for a new classifying and cataloguing system.Response of users and potential users regarding advantages and disadvantages of presently used systems plus information volunteered was the basis for the following list of characteristics which were considered in the development of a new classifying and cataloguing system:

the system and files should be easy to use.Items should be easy to retrieve, the system should be subject-indexed so desired descriptive data is retrievable, the system should be suitable for costumes, textiles, slides, and expandable to include household objects, it should be possible to accession the object before cataloguing to provide an immediate identification of each object with codes which are not dependent on catalogue categories, permanent records which cannot be easily removed or lost from the file should be established, 77

bibliographic citations for documenting the object should be recorded, and collection contents should be easily listed for insurance purposes and inventory control.

Criteria Adopted for Evaluating the Proposed Classifying and Cata- loguing System and Procedure.

During the development of the proposed system and development of criteria for evaluating the proposed system consideration was given to the following: size and scope of the collection and the statement of purpose and use of the collection so that categories and subcategories needed to make desired information retrievable would be included, expressed user needs for specific descriptive data to provide the appropriate categories for subject indexing and retrieval of the desired object, terminology which is common in the field of textiles and costumes and meaningful to the users, selected from reference books to provide consistency within the system, stages for implenting the proposed system to keep the new system within financial reach of the CTRA department, flexibility of the system to allow for new information to be added and for eliminating uselss information to keep the system relevant to the collection and user needs, 78

clear instructions which make possible the recording of information desired about each object so the system will be easy to use by those who will catalogue the objects, and characteristics requested by the users so the new system will meet the needs of the users. Specific criteria for evaluating the proposed system and procedure were adapted from literature and criteria used by other Institutions.The criteria were established to insure meeting user needs and fulfilling the purpose and use statement of the collection. Questions were developed based on the criteria statement to evaluate the system and procedures.(See Appendix L, page 155.) The questions and summary of results are discussed later (see page 112). Criteria adapted for evaluating the proposed CTRA system and procedure are as follows:

1.categories and subcategories are comprehensive, relevant, and subject-indexable,

Z.terminology is common, simple, standardized, and definable, 3. consistency is maintained in the use of specific category titles and term lists so that similar objects can be catalogued in the same manner by different people, 79

the system is easy to use for recording information about each object, code numbers are easy to remember and write down, placement of the object into the system is objective, category subdivisions are mutually exclusive, the system requires description of the object and does not require interpretation of the information, divisions and subdivisions are not weighted in importance and are organized in a logical manner for recording information. Criteria were established for evaluating the proposed system after Implementation to insure the success of the system, that objects are retrievable, and that the proposed system meets the remaining desired characteristics expressed by the users. An evaluation device was developed to be used by the test groups after the proposed system was implemented and the recommended test completed.Criteria for evaluating the proposed system after implementation include: object information is easy to retrieve from the subject index catalogue and the object from storage location, the time required to retrieve an object is acceptable to the majority of collection users, the cost of implementing the system is within the reach of the CTRA department, stages for implementing the proposed system are logical, and 80

5.the system is flexible in that information can be added and removed without destroying the system.

Proposed Classifying and Cataloguing System

Systems used by other universities and museums for classifying and cataloguing collections of costumes and textiles were investigated and evaluated for possible adoption and use for the CTRI-\ Department at Oregon State University. According to expressed user needs, the system proposed for Oregon State University must be easy to use, include a subject index for detailed descriptive data, and be suitable for costumes, textiles, and slides with flexibility for inclusion of household items and furniture.The systems investigated by literature search, by letter, or by personal visit were limited to textile or costume collections except for that of Horner Museum at Oregon State University. All objects housed at Horner Museum, including costumes and textiles, were being transferred to a new system which was adapted from Robert Chenhall's(1975) system for classifying and cataloguing museum objects. Existing costume and textile systems investigated did not provide for retrieval of sufficient detailed descriptive information to satisfy CTRA user requests. The need to record and retrieve detailed data and the desire for a system suitable for costumes, textiles, and slides led to further investigation of the system developed by 81

Chenhall.qk description of the classifying and cataloguing system developed by Chenhall (1975) and a letter of permission to copy the system in this thesis are included in AppendixM page 157). Chenhall established seven generic groups and 91 data fields to be used for cataloguing museum objects.Basic data fields could be used, subdivided, or omitted, as needed for the specificcollection. The Chenhall system was designed for computer use and was applicable to a variety of computer systems. The information recorded remained the same whether the catalogue file was computerized or manual. Chenhall's system provided for recording detailed data desired by users, and retrieval of any desired data could be established when the system was implemented. The system provides a basefrom which to develop the specific information to be recorded and retrieved from the resulting information file.The manual system could be easily computerized through use of data fields and controlledvocab- ulary, following the steps prescribed by Chenhall.Chenhall's system seemed to provide for recording detailed descriptivedata which would be retrievable; allowed for accessioning beforecatalogu- ing; could be used for costumes, textiles, and slides; wasexpand- able to include household items and furniture; and would be easy to use. The system would provide detailedinformation requested by users for selecting costume, textile, or slideillustrations for teaching and display purposes and would make possiblesharing of 82 information within the CTRA department and with Horner Museum after all items were classified and catalogued.

System Proposed for CTRA

Modifications were made in the system developed by Chenhall to meet the expressed needs of users and the statement of purpose and use of the CTRA collections. Data fields which did not apply to the CTRA collections were omitted but the numbers were left unused so those data fields would be available for use in the future. Consistency of the system proposed for CTRA with the system being implemented at Horner Museum was desired for informational exchange during the manual file system stage, and when both systems are computerized. The investigator recommends making further modifications during the implementation stage and recording the changes in the Classifying and Cataloguing Manual for reference. The classifying and cataloguing system developed by the investigator and recommended for implementation is located in Appendix N, page 166.Thirty-nine of the 91 data fields developed by Chenhall were used with changes in field definitions and subdivisions. Twenty eight data fields were left unchanged and 11 data fields were subdivided to accommodate expressed user needs. The titles and numbers for the data fields used by the investigator were kept the same as developed by Chenhall to provide continuity and 83 the ability to share information with other institutions adapting the Chenhall system. Data fields subdivided were named by the investigator to indicate field content. Justification for Data Fields Included in the Proposed CTRA System. The numbers and titles used in the following discussion refer to the data fields as adapted by the investigator and recorded in Appendix N, page 166. The whole number refers to the data field and the title which is underlined follows the data field number in the following discussion. Record Number. Each object in the CTPA collections must have a unique number for positive identification, a number which cannot be confused with any other number. Recording Institution.Identification of CTPA as the recording institution will be necessary after the files are computerized to distinguish CTRA objects from Horner Museum and other institutions using similar systems. 3a. Otber Record Numbers. CTRA collections have current catalogue numbers which need to be recorded on the new system as a means of positive identification until the new system is totally Implemented. Data field three was subdivided to include 3b Related Record Numbers. Sometimes CTRA items which are accessioned separately from a unit or ensemble, and the record numbers of all the 84 unit parts must be recorded so the entire ensemble or unit may be retrieved if desired. PhotoaraPh Negative Numbers. Each object should be photographed and the negative must be identified in a way to correspond with the object. The photograph is to be used in place of data field 55a (general description) and the negative becomes a positive identification source should the object and file card be destroyed. The number indicates the object has been photographed and the negative is on file under that number. Additional Data.Total information cannot be placed in the catalogue file because of insufficient space, therefore additional data files recommended are the Documentation File and History of Ownership File. Sometimes other pieces of information, such as hang tags, and sales slips, accompany objects acquired by CTRA and the information must be kept as part of the record for each object. Information passed on by the donor needs to be retained also for future use in the proper file.The Documentation File is an important source of information and gives historical support and credibility to an object, as well as adding educational value to the collection. The purpose and use statement supports inclusion of the above information in the file.The History of Ownership File is established to keep record of all information known about the history of each object. 8 5

7.Storage Location.Storage location is identified as requested by users for ease of object retrieval. 8a.Present Value. A record of each object with the current inflation or deflation value was requested by CTRA for administrative purposes. Data field eight was subdivided to provide the above information plus recording of 8b Documented Value and Source for the appraisal of each item and 8c Original Purchase Price which serves as a basis for determining the present value (8a), a record of budget expenses, and the amount of increased value for each object. Collector.Information about the acquisition can often be provided by the collector who acquired the object. Having the collector's name available may assist the C'TRA cataloguer in obtaining further documentary information on the object. Date Collected. Data field ten provides historical information about the artifact which will be especially useful if the object is donated several years after original purchase.

12.Recorder and 13Date Recorded provide a source for any of the information recorded on the cataloguing worksheet by the

cata loguer. . 14. Method of Acquisition and 15. Date of Acquisition are part of any catalogue record and recommended by Dudley, et. Ai. , 1958, and others. 86

16. Dpnor Name is recorded to provide a source for further information. The data field was subdivided to include 16b Donor Address as an easy means of contacting the donor for further information. References. CTRA users requested bibliographic citations for documenting the object recorded; therefore data field 20 was included. Manufacturer or Printer is recorded as a source of information, particularly for contemporary textile manufacturers such as Merimekk and Laura Ashley. Artist/Photographer/Designer was requested by the CTRA users. 25. Date of Origin and Use. Data field 25 was changed to meet the purpose and use of the CTRA collections.Chenhall used date of display, with date of origin and use implied in the data field definition.CTRA collections are not used for display in the same manner that collections are used for display in museums, therefore date of origin and use was established as the title to identify more accurately the desired data field contents. The data field was subdivided to allow for recording 25b.Bibliographic Citation for the identified date, as requested by users.

31.Cultural Time Period was requested by CTRA users to identify and retrieve cultural time period information about an object. 87

Developmental Stage/Style was requested by CTRA users to identify the stage or style of the object, and the information will be retrievable as requested by the users. Specific Culture was a field specifically requested by CTRA users to be identified and retrievable for each object catalogued. Place of Discovery was subdivided to identify the location, in steps ranging from general terms to specific terms, as requested by CTRA users. Data field 34c Sub-area refers to sub-areas of a continent or country. 34h Place of Purchase was added by CTRA request if place of purchase was different from place of creation or discovery. The purpose of this field is to provide a means of identifying objects which were made in one location and sold in another, and the information also assists in more accurate documentation. Data fields 34a - 34e are retrievable as requested by users. Condition information is needed to note deterioration from use and age, and provide assistance in caring properly for each object. Descriptive information was requested by users; therefore the following data fields were included.Further justification for each field is provided. Basic Material.Information is needed for any collection to identify the basic material of the object and therefore facilitate proper care and storage of each object. 88

48. Technique. Data field 48 was subdivided to provide the information requested by users for 48a Technique: Fabric, e.g. fiber, finish, fabric name; 48b Technique: Structural Design, e.g. stripes, checks, group dyed yarns; 48c Technique: Applied Design, Embellish- ments, Decorations, and Appendages, e.g. embroidery, lace, ruffles; and 48d Technique: Other, e.g. any technique used on the object which does not fit into the above subdivisions such as "hand sewn". Data field 48d relates to areas other than costumes and textiles such as household objects, and was provided to identify techniques not dealing with fabric structure, design, or added decorations.

50.color. The color data field was subdivided to provide information requested by users to identify the predominant colors.Each data sub-field provides for the identification of the color number, method of color application, dye source, and dye type as requested by users. Data fields 50a-50d were established to identify the four major colors on the object.Color is identified by a number from the Munsell color chart and will not be retrievable, although method of color application, dye source, and dye type sub-fields are retrievable. Data field 50e was established to identify multi-colored items and is not retrievable because the term recorded is "multi-colored" which indicates the object has more than the four recorded colors. The term "multi-colored" was requested by users to indicate an object which has more than four colors. 89

51.Form/Shape. The form/shape data field was subdivided to provide specific silhouette information for costumes as requested by users.51a Form/Shape is used to describe two-dimensional objects. 51b Garment Silhouette is retrievable as requested by users. 52. Dimensions. Dimensions are recorded for identification purposes, for insurance and inventory, and because the information provides a means for control of the quality of care for each object. 53. Garment Features. The garment features data field was subdivided to provide information requested by users to identify 53a Garment Features: Costume Parts, e.g. collar, sleeve; 53b Garment Features: Garment Construction, e.g. seams, closures, tucks; and 53c Garment Features: Embellishments. Decorations Appendages, e.g. applique, beads, ruffles. 54. Number of Parts. To avoid loss and confusion, the number of parts of one accession number must be identified so the parts can be kept together, e.g. skirt, jacket, and overskirt. 55. General Description. Data field 55 was subdivided to provide categories for recording desired wearer/user information requested by CTRA faculty for 55b, 55c Sex, 55d Special Use, and 55e. Special Person. Data field 55a General Description may be filled with a color photograph of the object for more precise identification information for insurance, inventory, and in case of loss or 90 theft. Space is provided on the file card to record written information until the photograph is taken and attached to the file card. Title. Data field 56 was subdivided to provide for recording the title given to the object by the designer or creator, e.g. a tapestry entitled "The Thousand Babies." A potential user requested the title information be recorded on the new system and title does apply to some textiles and costumes. Language used on the object provides more descriptive information for positive identification purposes, e.g. Latin words used on buildings portrayed in a wall hanging. Inscriptions identified provide for further identification of the object, e.g. label, or artist signature. Decorative Motif. The decorative motif field was subdivided to identify the motif name, motif type, and method of application using data fields 61a-61d, as requested by CTPA users for up to four motifs. Data field Ole provides for recording the motif name of any remaining motifs on the object. Data fields 61a-61e are retrievable as requested by CTRA users. The remaining data fields are used to classify the object by type and function as a means of further identification. 88.Preliminary Object Class. Data field 88 assists the user in distinguishing between artifacts and slides of artifacts when searching the subject index file. The symbol HART identifies the 91 object as an artifact, and MAPE identifies the object as a slide or photograph of the artifact. See figure 1 for listing of preliminary object classes. (Page 92.) 89.Broad Informal Class and 90. Specific Informal Class provide for recording the common name of the object being catalogued. The basis for naming the object is the most obvious original intended use or function.

91.Object Name is the specific name of the object being catalogued and is retrievable as ruested by CTPA users. Data fields 88 to 91 provide a hierarchal arrangement for naming objects, e.g. 91 - Bobbin, 90 - Textileworking Tools and Equipment, 89 - Tools and Equipment, 88 - HART. Data field 56 provides the specific title given to the object by the designer or creator and is different from the information recorded in data fields 88-91, e.g. the tapestry entitled "The Thousand Babies" would be catalogued as follows: 56a - The Thousand Babies, 56b(source documentation of title), 88 - HART, 89 - Household accessory, 90 - Wall hanging, and 91 - Tapestry. Rationale for Excluding Some of Chenhall's Data Fields from the Proposed System. Several data fields suggested by Chenhall (1975) were omitted from the proposed system because the data field did not apply to the CTRA collection. These data field numbers were therefore omitted and served for future use should the need arise. 92

Archaeological Ma teria Is Prehistoric artifacts AART Floral and faunal remains AFFR Human remains AHUR Sites ASIT

Art objects ART Biological Specimens Botanical specimens BOT Fossils FOS Zoological, nonhuman ZOO Ethnographic, historic or modern man-made objects Artifacts HART Historic sites HSIT Physical Science Specimens Geological specimens GEO Library items Books, manuscripts BOOK Maps, photographs, ephemera MAPE Motion pictures MPIC

Figure I.Preliminary Object Classes Established by Robert Chenhall for Data Field 88. 93

Keeping the numbers of the proposed system consistent with the Chenhall system increases the possibility of sharing information with other institutions whose collections are catalogued on the Chenhall system. The following data fields were omitted from the proposed system for the identified reasons:

6.Number of Items. The CTRA department collections are accessioned as individual items rather than as a group of similar items such as several pairs of shoes, therefore "number of items" does not apply to the current or proposed accessioning policy.

11.Expedition. At the present time the CTRA department does not participate in archaeological expeditions, nor does it generally receive materials from expedition sources; therefore this data field does not apply. 17. Owner other than recording institution and 18.Possessor other than recording institution were omitted because CTRA department policy does not accept permanent loans, and temporary loans would not be accessioned.

19.History of Ownership. The history of ownership file was incorporated under the additional data field "5" because the CTRA holdings are small.Chenhall recommended that the history of ownership be included under "additional data" to keep computerized information to a minimum and expense lower. 94

Technician, Artisan, Lithographer was omitted because the data field is not applicable to costumes, textiles, or slides. Author was omitted because the data field was not applicable to costumes, textiles, or slides.

26.Earliest Possible Date and 27.Latest Possible Date.The primary use of the CTRA collection is use as a teaching resource. The information in data fields 26 and 27 relates to information needed for establishing displays and exhibits in museums. The date information requested by CTRA users was incorporated into data field 25; therefore data fields 26 and 27 were omitted. 28. System, 29. Series, and 30. Stage are used for geological and paleontological specimens and do not apply to CTRA collections of costumes, textiles, and slides. 34f.Site name and 34g. Specific Address were not applicable data fields because the CTRA department does not currently participate in excavations or archeological digs or receive materials from such sources. 35.Place of Origin is not needed, since sufficient information is recorded in data fields 34a-34e and 34h to meet expressed CTRA user needs. Data fields 36-45 describe geographical and geological provenance of excavations and do not apply to the CTRA collections, therefore the data fields were omitted. 95

49. Medium. Information to be recorded in data field 49 repeats information recorded in data field 48 Technique, and was therefore omitted to avoid duplication of information recorded about each object. 58. Specific Subjects, and 59. General Subjects duplicates the information recorded in data field 61.Motif; and therefore the data fields were omitted to avoid duplicating recorded information. Data fields 62-83 provide for recording information for established taxo- nomies. At present no hierarchal taxonomy exists for costumes or textiles, and sufficient information was not requested by the CTRA users to warrant development of a taxonomy structure; therefore data fields 62-83 were omitted for the purposes of this study. Data fields 84-87 provide for recording information about the taxonomy. The information is not applicable to the CTRA collections at the present time; therefore data fields 84-87 were omitted. Data Fields Established to Meet Expressed User Needs. Users were interviewed to identify desired descriptive data to be recorded in the proposed catalogue system. (See Appendix G, page 146, User needs: questions one and two; potential users needs: question two; and Appendix I, page 150). Two major users were interviewed a second time to identify specific descriptive information to be identified for fabric technique, color, and motif, and information desired for retrieval.(See Appendix H and I, pages 148, 150 ) One user requested recording information on the form of garment, but 96 withdrew the request because no satisfactory classification system existed to identify form properly. One user requested identification and retrievability of value for administrative purposes. A file was established for use by the administrator only, providing for the information in data field 8a present value, 8b documented value,and 8c original purchase price to be recorded. The file will be arranged by accession number. For full discussion of the file see page 234. Potential users who were interviewed and expressed desire for additional information to be recorded in the proposed system (See Appendix G, page 147, potential user needs: question two.) No new data fields were added to accommodate the information desiredby the potential users because space for recording the information was present in the proposed system. The data fields may be subdivided if deemed_ necessary by the CTRA department to accommodate requested information. Data fields available for recording the desired information are established as follows: 22. Artist/Photographer/Designer for designating artist, architect, designer, monarch. 32. Developmental Stage/Style for designating period furniture.

47.Basic Material.This data field can be subdivided to provide for identification of metal, earthenware, glass, and any other basic material requested in the future by users and potential users. Data fields 88-91 provide for classifying objects by type and 97 function, therefore recording information of object use as requested by potential users. Recommended Procedural Steps. The CTRA administrator requested a list of procedural steps for implementing the proposed system so the expense could be budgeted over a period of years. See Appendix 0, page 244.The procedural steps recommended for implementing the proposed system should be completed in the given order so the work will flow smoothly and excessive handling of the collections will be avoided. The steps deal with reviewing and adopting the proposed system, review and evaluate the term lists, purchasing needed supplies, recording all presently known information on old file cards, accessioning items not previously catalogued, re--accessioning all objects, re-cateloguing all objects on the new system, reviewing and selecting label material, preparing appropriate labels, preparing appropriate files, accessioning and cataloguing the slides, preparing files for slides, photographing textiles and costumes, and storing all items in proper locations.

Rationale for Proposed Procedures

The procedures selected and recommended for implementation were based on the purpose and use of the collections and the expressed CTRA user needs. The following discussion gives rationale for Registration-Accession File, Subject-Index File, Appraisal File, 98 Documentation File, History of Ownership File, labeling procedure, data fields, user requests for the proposed system, and user identified characteristics for the catalogue file.

Registration-Accession File The registration and accession files discussed in literature consisted of ledgers and card files to provide an immediate and permanent record of collection holdings and information surrounding the acquisition (Dudley, gt.j., 1958; Schoephoerster, 1977; Skewes, 1977; Petterson, 1978). The accession files investigated were in ledger form with information recorded for accession number, storage location, and other information such as technique and provenance as desired by each institution based on user need.Petterson (1978) described a two step process used at the University of Washington. Step one Involved making a temporary record kept in a spiral binder for one year during which time the accuracy of data was confirmed.For step two the information was hand copied in ink into the bound Acquisition Ledger and became the permanent official record of collection holdings. Schoephoerster (1977) surveyed registration systems usedby museums and universities and found some registration files werekept in book form only, while some institutions established a registration card file.Schoephoerster (1977) established a record book for recording accession number, name and address of source, date received, 99 and a brief description of the object for the system developed for the Ohio State University. The registration-accession procedure recommended for CITA consists of two parts.First, information is recorded in the accession ledger for immediate notation of accession number, item name, storage location, and donor name or method of acquisition. The accession ledger provides a permanent record of the collection holdings organized numerically. Second, the catalogue worksheets are prepared and are also used for the registration file to avoid duplicating work. The registration file functions as a source of record information and will not be a file for searching to locate information; therefore developing a separate card file is not necessary. The information requested by users for retrieval is available in other files.

Subject Index File The Subject-Index File is an adaptation of the alphabetical subject catalogue discussed by Foskett (1969).The CTRA Subject-Index File is arranged alphabetically using the 25 retrievable data fields as the main index divisions. Each division will be subdivided alphabetically by the headings within each data field.Further alphabetical subdivisions may be necessary in some data fields to assist in ease of locating desired information.This procedure overcomes alphabetical scatter where related objects are not found together, which is the major disadvantage of the alphabetical subject catalogue 100 discussed by Foskett, (1969). The alphabetical subject catalogue was selected and modified because of the following advantagesof the procedure: self-evident order, ease of including new topics, and flexibility (Foskett, 1969). Color-coding the Subject-Index File gives the user visual identification of the file division or subdivision content (Vickery, 1970). Morrissey (1978) used different colored cards to represent the four major divisions of the Helen L. Allen Textile Collection: technique/ structure, object, provenance, and time period/style period. The color-coding procedure selected for the CTRA Subject-Index File identifies costume, textile, household furnishing, and slide; using one color for each area.Subject-Index File cards for slides will have a second color coding to indicate slide content.Colored tape corresponding to slide content area such as costume or textile will be secured over the upper edge of the file card. The file card color identifies the object as a slide and the tape color identifies the slide content area. Other areas and colors can be easily added due to the small number of areas already identified.Color-coding the item area rather than retrievable categories was chosen because of the ease of selecting four distinctive colors as opposed to selecting 25 colors with visual differences. A problem with color-coding any file is that the colors must be visually distinct and when the file requires several colors, the choices available restrict the system 101

(Weihs, al., 1973).Color-coding is more effective if different colors can be used such as red, blue, green, or yellow, whereas light and dark values of the same color lead to confusion, e.g. light yellow, dark yellow. The selected color code procedure will allow the user to identify visually whether the object is an artifact or a slide of an artifact, as well as identify the major category to which the object belongs: textile, costume, or household furnishing (See page 233).

Appraisal File Insurance value is often included on the catalogue card and the information becomes available to anyone searching the file (Dudley et. al., 1958; Burcaw, 1975). Chenhall, (1975) suggests recording the value and date in a code form on the file card for security reasons, so not everyone using the file will have access to the value of the object. Chenhall, (1975) recommends the following information be included in the appraisal file: registration number, brief description or title, object category, appraisal value, date of appraisal, and date acquired. Dudley (et.. al., 1958) recommends including the insurance value and date in the catalogue card file (Burcaw, 1975). The Appraisal File was established for administrative purposes to assist in inventory control and insurance coverage. The existing CTBA catalogue file cards can be used to establish the Appraisal File. The cards contain a brief description of the object, storage location, 10 2 record number, and object name. Appraisal value can be added. The color photo print is added to the file card to provide a positive identification of the object without recording a detailed description on the file card.

Documentation File The Documentation File was recommended in literature and implemented in several universities and museums. Schoephoerster (1977) called the file the Object Folder File which contains additional reference materials.Patterson (1978) called the file the Information Notebook which contained items such as photos, hang tags, and newspaper clippings relating to the same object. The Documentation File was established for CTRA to accommodate all additional pieces of information relating to a given object. Each object will have a file folder to contain the documentary information, including student research papers.If information is not available for the object, then no folder is prepared, to avoid storage of empty folders. The file provides a means of retaining pertinent information which cannot be recorded on the Catalogue Worksheet or filed in the Subject Index.

History of Ownership File

A History of Ownership File provides for recording information about the history of any object. The file is organized by donor name and therefore doubles as the donor card file. The donor card file is 103 not recommended for establishment in the CTRA department because information in the History of Ownership file would be duplicated and both files are not needed. The History of Ownership File is recommended because more information can be contained in it than in the donor card file.When someone desires to see an item donated by a given individual, the History of Ownership File can provide the information, since the file is arranged by donor name. Every donated object will be listed on the donor folder. The donor is requested to fill out a Donor Information Record form and the form is filed in the History of Ownership File. When a donor's decendents desire to see the donated objects and can provide only the donor name, having some means of retrieving the information based on donor name becomes a need. Skewes (1977) found that 79% of the investigated institutions did record donor information, while only thirteen percent maintained a donor card file.The donor card file was recommended and used by museums whose user needs were different from universities.The recommended History of Ownership File provides information which will lend educational value and credibility to the collection and function as a Donor File, should the need arise to locate an object by donor name.

Label Procedure Labels contain information important to retrieval of appropriate 104 objects from storage location such as record number, storage location, object name and donor name when applicable. The label must be permanent, durable, legible, and non-damaging to the object. The investigator recommends further study be given to the selection of an appropriate material to be used for the CTRA collection labels.Pos- sible materials for consideration include mending tape adhered to acid free paper, light weight firmly woven non-sized fabric fused to interfacing to provide stability for typing, medium or heavy weight Pellon, or linen tape stabilized with light weight fusible interfacing. Factors to be considered when selecting the label material include: label should be firm enough to type the information onto label to provide permanent and legible information; label information should not smudge or smear with handling; dry cleaning or laundering the object should not alter label information; and label should be flexible enough to catch-stitch easily to the garment or textile. The investigator recommends typing information onto labels to provide consistency of letter formation, neatness, and easeof reading the information. Hand sewing the label to the object is recommended to avoid damage and discoloration of the object.Pinning the label to the object was mentioned in literature, but was not recommended because the pin could cause tear or rust damage tothe object. The label pinned to the object could be easily removed and lost, then the object would become unidentified and lose its value 105 and use in the collection. The most common labelprocedure discussed in literature was use of linen tape and India ink withthe label hand sewn to the object (Dudley .21.j., 1958).The procedure Is not recommended for CTRA use because of problemswith legibility. Petterson, (1978) reported the use of a film covered label hand sewn onto the object. For slides, the record number and storage location is to be recorded on the upper edge of the slide when the slide is in proper position for hand viewing. The record number will be placedabove the storage location to avoid confusion. All other information currently recorded on the slide mount should be transferred to thecatalogu- ing worksheet and then covered or removed from the slide mount.

Data Fields The data fields were subdivided as needed to provide for recording the information about each object as requestedby users. Sample term lists and recommended references were establishedfor retrievable data fields to provide consistency needed in recording information which will be placed in the computerized file in thefuture, and also to provide users with a list of terms to use in phrasingretrieval questions. The sample term lists and references are to be reviewed prior to implementing the system. References should be selected which provide appropriate terms and definitions for the cataloguing process.If no adequate reference is approved, use the sample term 106

lists given in Appendix N, page 196, as a beginning point for recording information. Terms used for cataloguing should be familiar to users, definable, mutually exclusive and related tothe collection contents. The investigator recommends all sample term listsand recommended references be reviewed and evaluated using the above mentioned criteria. After references have been adopted for use, add terms and definitions as necessary to keep the referencesrelevant and up-to-date. User Requests. Users were interviewed to determine the characteristics desirable for a catalogue for costumes andtextiles. The following characteristics were identified by the users as desirable to be included in the proposed system: All items catalogued using the same system. Users requested use of the same or similar systems forcataloguing costumes, textiles, and slides. Therefore the slide content is catalogued the same way as a costume or textile with data field 88Preliminary Object Class distinguishing between a costume or textile, and a slide of a costume or textile. The Subject-Index File iscolor coded to distinguish between costume, textile, slide of costume, and slideof textile.(See instructions for card files, Appendix N, page233). Subject-Index File.Subject indexing of the descriptive data was requested by users to eliminate the need to hand-sortthe file cards or objects in storage to locate the desired object.The 107 retrievable information identified as desirable by users becomesthe basis for the Subject Index File and later for the computerizedfile so that the descriptive information will be retrievablethrough common data fields, e.g., if an object is desired which has a specificmotif applied using a given technique and is from a specific culture, it can be retrieved through use of the Subject-Index File. The user could go to the Subject-Index File, look under "motif" to identify thedesired type and name of motif, then look through the cards to determineif the motif is applied using the desired technique and is representative of the desired culture (each card contains the recorded information for all retrievable data fields). The computerized file will eliminate any hand sorting, since the computer can be instructed to sortthrough the information in the desired combination of data fields to locate the possible presence of the desired object. 3. Ease of file use. The recommendation is made to the CTRA department that a moderate size work table, chair, and adequate lighting be provided for use when working with the Subject-Index File.Users requested a file location which was easier to use and a place to sit and study the cards, uninterrupted by classes in the room. The card file will be arrangedalphabetically by data field divisions and subdivisions. Ease of use of the card file is a recommended point for evaluation after the proposed system is implemented. User Identified Characteristics for Catalogue File.Users and 108 potential users were asked to identify unique characteristics of a costume and textile catalogue file.The following characteristics to be met through the recommended procedures, were identified through faculty interviews, and considered during the development of the proposed system. Detailed information. The proposed system and recommended procedures provide for recording and retrieving all descriptive data requested by users (See Appendix H, page 148). Cross-referenced system. The Subject-Index File provides for cross-referencing of all retrievable data. The user can locate the item through any of the retrievable data fields for which information has been recorded about the desired object. Bibliographic citation for documentation. Data fields were established and subdivided to provide for recording the bibliographic citation; e.g. 8b Value and Source, page 176; 20 References, page 179 ; 25 Date of Origin and Use, page 180; 56 Title, page 191 If- additional bibliographic citations are needed, the appropriate field can be subdivided for recording the information. Retain information over time.Provision was made for recording and storing all information about a given object in the appropriate card or folder file. The documentation and history of ownership files provide for recording information which is not recorded on the Cata- loguing Worksheet or in the Subject-Index File and storing materials 109 which may accompany the object at time of acquisition.The files are permanent and if the information is properly recorded and stored as recommended, the information will be retrievable at any point in the future (barring destruction, theft, or loss). Accession before cataloguing. The recommended procedures allow for assigning a unique accession number to each textile, costume, and slide upon receipt by the CTRA department. Central system regardless of item storage location. Cos- tumes, textiles, and slides are all catalogued using the same cataloguing worksheet and the Classifying and Cataloguing Manual. Some data fields do not apply to every object and instructions are included for handling those situations. Provide for exchange of information among instructors of the CTRA department. All CTRA collections will be catalogued on the same system. The investigator recommends that each facultymember use the same system for personal collections to make possiblethe exchange of information among CTRA faculty. Provide for exchange of information with other institutions. The proposed system and procedures makes possible identifying the collection contents, so questions coming from other institutions about the CTRA collections can be answered. Provide for ease of personnel transition. The investigator recommends cataloguing all the collection items on the proposed 110 system. The instructions for the system and the procedures are written in the Classifying and Cataloguing Manual (AppendixN, page 166) and available for faculty use. Newpersonnel coming into the CTRA department will have access to the Manual and will not have to depend on verbal information from other faculty members on how to use the catalogue file and locate objects in storage.

Testing Classifying and Cataloguing Procedures

Users were selected to test the proposed procedures by cataloguing three items from each of the existing collections: historic costumes; world textiles and costumes, and historic textiles; and slides of world and historic textiles and costumes. Each of the nine items were to be catalogued using the Cataloguing Worksheet.Infor- mation about each item was taken from existing records and the actual costume, textile, or slide.Users were provided with procedural steps, a classifying and cataloguing manual with the data fields defined and sample word lists, available resource books, and the nine items with available information for cataloguing. The recorded information was based on information present in the current records, or obvious on the artifact with no further documentation provided users, because additional reference books were not available. The assumption was made that each user had sufficient background knowledge of clothing and textiles; therefore the test was whether the procedures 111 were workable, and whether the information was recorded in the same data field and the instructions were followed. The nine items were randomly selected from the existing collections and the four users were asked to participate in the cataloguing test exercise.Prior to the test date, each user was given a general instruction packet with information on procedures, a brief definition of each data field to be used, and rules for using the system. The user was asked to play the role of a curator at the point of receipt of new acquisitions to be accessioned and catalogued. The time allowed to catalogue the nine items was approximately two hours. On test day, time was available from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. for each user to come when convenient to catalogue the items. Upon ar- rival each user was given two packets. One packet contained procedures to be followed, a list of items available in the room for use while cataloguing, an introduction statement, outline of data fields contained in the Classifying and Cataloguing Manual, and rules for using the system. The other packet contained forms and word lists to be used while cataloguing the nine items. One user asked to do the test the following day due to time schedule problems, and arrangements were made to keep the test situation set for a second day. The other three users arrived during the afternoon of the scheduled day to catalogue the nine items. The time 112 allotment proved to be inadequate, therefore users wereasked to catalogue only one textile, one costume, and oneslide.Frustrations resulted from lack of time,and users refused toproperly catalogue information for data fields which were not clearly definedin the Manual or understood by the user. Each user who completed the cataloguing process wasasked to fill out an evaluation form consisting of nine questionswith space available for comments. Each question was to be answered on a Likert type sliding scale with possible answers rangingfrom strongly agree to strongly disagree.The questions asked were based on the criteria adapted to evaluate the system.Three users completed and returned the evaluation forms. Two users answeredall questions with agree to strongly agree that the criteria weremet, while one user answered most of the questions with disagree. No problems were experienced with the ledger page format or instructionsfor the information to be recorded on the ledger page,therefore no changes were

made. Problems identified by users and stated in general written comments consisted of the following: some data fields need clarifying, rules need to be more explicit and when referred toin the data field, the rule number and page locationshould be cited, 113

divide design category so information can be recorded separately for structural design and applied design, insufficient term lists for some data fields, Cataloguing Worksheet was crowded and spaces too small for recording desired information, instructions not clear as to whether classification was of the slide as an object or slide content, instructions in the Classifying and Cataloguing Manual were confusing as to what applied to slide, costume, or textile for cataloguing when instructions differed, term definitions were missing, and inability to locate directions for establishing the accession number by one user who didn't pick up the Manual as instructed in procedures received upon entering the test situation. The fourth user who returned the next day to catalogue three items was unable to begin and gave up in frustration.In a later interview, the following problems were identified: lack of familiarity with any type of cataloguing system, difficulty working within controls and structures of any type, packet organization was confusing, too many packets and lists to keep track of, and no clear directions on how to proceed, could not get through instructions for data field one on accession number because of lack of clarity in the instructions, 114

catalogue worksheet was too crowded and confusing,and lack of familiarity on how to use resources such asChenhall's Nomenclature (1978) and Murdock's Outline of WorldCultures seemed overwhelming along with the other identified problems. After revisions based on user comments were completed,the investigator catalogued additional items to identifyfurther problems in the procedures and to clarify data field instructions.This process was continued until two items could be cataloguedwithout need for further changes. After revisions were made, one non-userwho was familiar with the cataloguing procedure at Horner Museum wasasked to classify and catalogue three items using theproposed system for CTRA,and to identify problems encountered in procedures, clarity of data fields and instructions and term definitions.Problems identified by the non-user were:

1.inconsistent use of titles for term lists mentioned in the data field and recorded at the top of the term list, and

2.confusion over beginning and ending of each data field, due to format of Manual. Familiarity with cataloguing procedures for a similar system allowed the non-user to catalogue the items more quickly and with noexpressed frustration. General comments were made that the proposed system was good, the procedures clear, and instructions easy to follow. 115

After the original, user test,the evaluation form wasrevised to allow questions to be answered with"yes" or "no" with explanation to be given for "no" answers.(See Appendix P, page 247). The questions were revised to allow for a moreobjective response,rather than responses being based on user feelingsabout the system. The non-user filled out the revisedevaluation form consisting of thirteen questions. The non-user answered questions two throughthirteen with "yes" and question one with, "notentirely" and a comment questioning sufficient means of cross-referencingthe information to retrieve objects for display purposes.The non-user was accustomed to establishing displays and exhibits for museumswhich require different Information than is needed by CTRA usersfor display. The investigator believes cross-referencing issufficient to retrieve objects for class and display use based onCTRA user's requests for retrievable information. The non-user stated he had no problem workingwith the proposed system and reference books, butrecommended revising the Manual format to distinguish one data field fromanother by indenting all data field instruction. After revising the format for the Classifyingand Cataloguing Manual, two CTRA users were asked tore-test the procedures by 116 cataloguing three of the original nine items selecting one textile, one costume, and one slide. Due to time and schedule problems, each user was able to catalogue only one item during the time available. The investigator was present to answer questions during the cataloguing process. Most of the questions asked by one user dealt with information present in the instructions which the user failed to read. After being instructed to read the given directions, the questions were apparently resolved without further comment. The other user asked questions for clarification in understanding some of the data fields and identifying the differences between similar data fields. When asked if the directions given were clear on the item, the user responded "yes", indicating the problem was lack of costume and textile knowledge rather than problems with the system, procedures, or instructions. Information recorded on the present catalogue cards was assumed to be accurate and the limited information available often hindered users in cataloguing on the new system. Recording proper information in data fields 33 and 34 during the test and re-test sessions became a problem because the present geographic classification terms were too general and often dealt with continental regions rather than specific countries; therefore users often recorded a more specific cultural code from Murdock's Outline of World Cultures than was necessary to accurately identify culture.Lack of 117 time and familiarity with Outline of World Cultures contributed to the recorded differences. The user who could not understand the procedures for the original test situation was able to catalogue one item in the re-test situation without difficulty. The user stated the revised Catalogue Worksheet arrangement was much better (See Appendix Q, page 249) and the Manual was easier to use, and understand. The user who did the test and re test commented that the revised format helped tremendously, as did the additional term lists and clarification of problem data fields. The revised evaluation form was filled out by the two users doing the retest. All questions except number eight were answered "yes" by both users with some comments. Question eight was answered "no" by one user with the comment that identification of motif was subjective, but after the identification was made, placement of the information into the system was objective (See Appendix

P, page247).

Recommended Test and Evaluation of Subject-Index Fije After Imolementation

Problems to be solved by the proposed system were identified through interviews with faculty users (See Appendix G, page 146: question 3). Some of the identified problems solved by the 118 procedures were accessioning of each item before cataloguing, use of same or similar systems for all collections, subject index of specific information, and recording of specific information including technique.Identified problems beyond the scope of this study dealt with storage. The remaining problem to be solved by the proposed system and evaluated is "ease of use" of the catalogue file. The Subject-Index File must be tested and evaluated after implementation to determine ease of use and retrievability of desired information for classroom and display use. The four users were asked to identify 12 typical retrieval questions.Three questions were randomly selected from each list submitted by the four users. The twelve questions are to be used to test the Subject-Index File for retrievability of desired information (See Appendix R, page 251) after the collections are catalogued. The assumption was made that the typical retrieval questions would be valid for testing retrievability of information requested by users and present in the collection. Two test groups will be established to test retrievability and evaluate ease of use of the Subject-Index File. The first test group consists of the four identified users, the second test group consists of four randomly selected faculty non-users and two gradu- ate students.Selection of the second test group will be done by the CTRA department head after the file has been implemented. Each person in both test groups will be given directions on the use of the 119 catalogue, which are to be read prior to beginning the test questions. Each of the twelve questions will be answered by recording the accession number, storage location, and object name for each object located in answer to the retrieval question. All test persons should arrive at the same answer for the selected retrieval questions. The answers will be reviewed by the users to determine whether or not the desired information is retrievable, assuming the information is present in the collection. Each person will be asked to respond to the following questions by giving a "yes" or "nofl response: "Was the catalogue easy to use?" "Was sufficient work space available for the catalogue file, and for you to work?", "Were the divider cards easy to-use and understand?".If the questions are answered "no", comments and explanations are to be given to identify the problems encountered while using the catalogue. Changes needed to facilitate ease of use or retrievability of desired information should be implemented.In order that any system work effectively, changes must be made so the system can meet the expressed needs of the users. 120

V. Summary, Conclusions, and Recommendations

Summary

Collections of objects must be organized in a meaningful way to meet user needs and to insure preservation of objects over time. Adequate records of registering, classifying, and cataloguing a collection must be established and maintained so the collection may be used for locating desired information. The purpose of this study was to develop a classifying and cataloguing system and procedure which could be used for the Oregon State University Clothing, Textile and Related Arts (CTRA) collections of textiles, costumes, and slides and would identify and make possible the retrieval of data requested by users.Possible conversion to computer use in the near future was considered during development. A purpose and use statement was developed for the CTRA collections to provide the proper foundation for development of the classifying and cataloguing system. The faculty users were identified and interviewed to establish the current purpose and use of the collections.Potential users were identified and interviewed to identify information needed about the collection contents and possible future use of the collections. The major functions of the CTRA collections as identified by four users and three potential users were use as a teaching resource and for display.Possible future uses 121 identified included student study, documentation, and research. Responses to letters and personal visits indicated that the users of collections determined how the collections were used, e.g. museum curators used the collections primarily for public display, while education institution users utilized the collections as teaching resources and for study.The uses of the collection determined the information to be recorded and retrieved.Educational institutions had recorded detailed information about the fabric, garment construction, and design while museum curators recorded and retrieved information on provenance, date of use and display, and object name based on original intended use. The purpose and use of the CTRA collections was defined as a teaching resource with possible future use for student study and documentation. The CTRA purpose and use statement also allowed for the collection to be used for display, assistance for public service talks, loan to Horner Museum for display, faculty interest and pleasure, and future unanticipated use. User needs were identified through interviews with faculty members who currently use the costume, textile, and slide collections. Identified user needs were the basis for determining information to classify and make retrievable in the proposed system. User needs identified consisted of desire for more information about techniques of garment construction, design application, fabric construction, 122 design and motif, design movements and inspirational concepts, item name, date, age and sex of user, special person, special use, and tools or equipment. The two major users of the CTRA collections were interviewed a second time to identify the specific needs for describing place of origin, fabric, color, motif, age, sex, measurements, object name and basis for needing the desired information. Course content and administrative purposes were the basis for retrievability of desired information. Users were interviewed to identify information desired which was not available in the present classifying and cataloguing system, to identify problems with current systems in locating desired information, and to identify advantages of the present system to be included in the proposed system. The major concern of users with present systems was inability to retrieve specific descriptive data, and no provision in the present procedure to record consistently the desired descriptive data. Other problems with the present system included the following: collections were organized on several different systems; accessioning an object could not be done prior to cataloguing; a subject index to retrieve descriptive data was lacking; and slides were not identified nor retrievable by culture. The present systems for classifying and cataloguing costumes, textiles, and slides in CTRA department were analyzed on the basis of the purpose and use statement and expressed user needs. The 123 system used for classifying and cataloguing historic costumes was established in the early 1950's and does not allow for retrieval of the descriptive data requested by users. Retrieval can be accomplished by time period and then by garment item name only. Another system was developed and implemented in the 1950's for the world costumes, and world and historic textiles. The descriptive data requested by users is not always recorded on the Unisort card and no provision was made in the present system to retrieve any of the descriptive data. The slide collection is divided and stored in faculty offices based on courses taught by that faculty person. The slides are retrievable by date, or geographic area and country. A consistent system for use with all departmental slides does not exist. The prime use of the collections as a teaching resource was stated in the proposed purpose and use statement.Present systems of classifying and cataloguing do not allow users to retrieve objects and slides based on the descriptive data requested. Collections are used for display to illustrate design elements and period design of costumes. The present system does not allow retrieval of design elements or techniques, but costumes are retrievable by date or country. The current system is sufficient for general display use, but is not sufficient for retrieval of design elements or techniques. The purpose of the collections as stated in the purpose and use statement was to preserve items of cultural and historic value and 124 interest for teaching, display, and future unanticipated needs. The systems previously developed and currently in use allow for recording some information relevant to collected objects and do meet the purpose for maintaining the collection, but fail to meet needs for use of the collection as a teaching resource. The principal problems with the present system as identified through user interviews were lack of descriptive data recorded, lack of retrievable subject-indexed information desired by users, lack of ease of accessioning, and lack of a common system for textiles, costumes, and slides.Greater use of the collections would be made if the proposed system is easier to use than the present methods and if the proposed system meets the users needs. Guidelines were established to assist in evaluating investigated classifying and cataloguing systems in museums and universities; consideration was also given to expressed CTRA user needs and criteria identified in literature. Investigation was made in person of museums and universities housing collections of costumes and textiles within 300 miles of Oregon State University. Further contact was made by letter with some museums and universities known to have collections and costumes and textiles in order to identify the classifying and cataloguing system and procedures used with the collections. Most systems investigated did not provide for recording or retrieving sufficient 125 descriptive data identified as desirable by CTRA users. The system investigated at Horner Museum on Oregon State University campus provided a possible solution for recording and retrieving varied descriptive data, and the system was easily adapted for computer usage in the future. The system at Horner Museum was adapted from Robert Chenhall (1975) who developed a system for cataloguing which could be used manually or with the computer. The system could be adjusted to meet the specific needs of the users and the unique characteristics of the collections.Chenhall's (1975) system contained 91 data fields with definitions for each field and guidelines for use of the system. Vocabulary control was important for cataloguing and retrieving information from the files; therefore Chenhall advised establishing term lists to be used during the cataloguing process and in formulating questions to retrieve desired information from the index file. Criteria were established for evaluating the proposed system to insure that the user needs were met and that the CTRA purpose and use statement was fulfilled.Please refer to page 77 for the criteria. Criteria were also established for evaluating the proposed system after implementation to insure objects were retrievable. The criteria for evaluating the proposed system after implementation are on page

79. After evaluating systems investigated at other museums and 126 universities Chenhall's system was selected and adapted for use in the CTFtA department because recording and retrieving the descriptive data requested by users was possible, information could be placed in a computer with minimal adjustment, and after computerization, information could be shared between CTRA and Horner Museum. Additional criteria which were met by the Chenhall system included: terminology common to the field of clothing and textiles could be used; stages for implementing the system could be established; clear instructions for recording information could be established along with term lists for vocabulary control; the same system was usable for costumes, textiles, slides and was expandable to include household objects and other CTRA areas; and space was provided for recording bibliographic information. Chenhall established 91 data fields in the system, 39 of which were used in the proposed system for CTRA with 11 data fields being subdivided to accommodate the expressed CTRA user needs. The remainder of the data fields were omitted and the numbers reserved for future use. Data field numbers and titles used by the investigator were kept consistent with those established by Chenhall to provide continuity and the possibility of sharing information with other institutions adapting Chenhall's system. Procedures for use of the proposed system were developed after Investigation by personal visit and letter to other institutions. 127

Procedures established were based on the purpose and use statement, information requested by users and administrators, and recommendations made by Robert Chenhall (1975).Files were established to accommodate the information necessary to maintaining the CTRA collections including the Registration-Accession File, Subject- Index File, Appraisal File, Documentation File, and History of Ownership File.Label procedure was recommended to provide a permaneht, uniform, easy-to-read label which would not damage t1,p, textile or costume. Procedural steps for implementing the proposed system were -estabLished so the expense of the new system could be budgeted by the CTRA department. Procedures were established and recommended for using the proposed system to help meet the expressed user needs and to provide a workable system. Sample term lists were established and reference sources were recommended for use to provide consistency needed in recording descriptive data which could be placed in a computerized file in the future. The procedures were testedfor clarity and ease of use, and necessary revisions were made to insure the procedures met the established criteria. A Classifying and Cataloguing Manual was developed which contained the data fields and definitions with instructions for filling out the information on the Catalogue Worksheet; rules for using the system, sample term lists, recommended reference resources, 128 and procedures. After implementation of the proposed system, the resulting Subject-Index File must be tested and evaluated to determine ease of use and retrievability of desired information. Two test groups were recommended to test the Index.

Conclusions

Any system and procedure must be designed or adapted for the specific collection based on the collection characteristics, use and user needs. Systems used at different universities can be identical only if the collection use and user needs are identical. Most similar systems investigated varied in degree of detailed information recorded based on user need and collection use. Vocabulary control is essential and must be established prior to cataloguing so consistency can be maintained in recording information about any object. The sample term lists assists the user in wording appropriate retrieval questions. A system must be continually modified to remain relevant to collection use and user needs.

Recommendations

To the Clothing, Textile, and Related Arts Department I. Review and approve the proposed classifying and cataloguing 129 system and procedures. Implement the proposed system and procedures according to the recommended steps for implementation. Review the sample term lists and evaluate them on the basis of the following criteria: terms are familiar to users, terms are definable, terms are mutually exclusive, terms are related to the collection contents. Review and approve the recommended reference resources. Investigate process for taking color photographs of costumes and textiles. Purchase for use the approved recommended reference resources. Accession new items which are currently not accessioned nor catalogued, then proceed to re-accession currently catalogued costumes and textiles. Make any corrections or revisions necessary during implementation of the proposed system and record the changes in the Classify- ing and Cataloguing Manual. Establish a storage and study area for the Subject-Index File Including a table, chair, and adequate lighting for study. Investigate the possibility of a central storage area for slides so greater use can be made for slides by all CTRA faculty; slide storage in individual faculty offices discourages use by others. Conduct a seminar to acquaint faculty with the new system after implementation. 130

12. Review the total system and procedure every five to ten years, making changes necessary to keep the system relevant to the collection and to user needs.

Recommendations

For Future Study

Compare the information recorded on collections used for teaching and display with information recorded on collections used for research and study to identify similarities and differences. Investigate possible computerization of the proposed system and recommend process for implementing. Evaluate the proposed system in five to ten years to determine if the collection uses and user needs have changed, and identify adaptions necessary to update the system. Investigate and recommend adequate storage facilities and equipment, and proper care and conservation procedures for the collections in the CTRA department. 13 1

BIBLIOGRAPHY

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Chenhall, Robert G.''Sharing the Wealth." Museum News 51: 8, 21-23, April, 1973.

Daughtry, Bessie M. Cataloguing and Classifying AudioVisual Materials. Tallahassee, Florida: Florida State University, 1950. Deshon, Viva Josephine, "A Study of the Historic Costumes Housed at San Jose State University." Master's thesis. San Jose State University, 1975. Dewey, Melvil, Dewey Decimal Classification and Relative Index. Tenth Abridged Edition devised by Melvil Dewey. Forest Press, Inc.,1971. Dudley, Dorothy H. and Wilkinson, Irma B. and others, Museum Registration Methods. Washington D.C.: The American As- sociation of Museums, 1958. Duffield, Francis, "Philosophy of Historic Collections in the Univer- sity Setting," paper presented at the Historic Costume and Textile Workshop, East Lansing, Michigan. June (21-24) 1978. 132

Dunn, Walter S., Jr., "Cataloguing Ephemera: A Procedure for Small Libraries," American Association for State and Local History. Technical Leaflet #58, History News 27:1, January 1972. Emery, Irene. The Primary Structure of Fabrics, An Illustrated Clas- sification. Washington D.C.: The Textile Museum. 1966. Espenshade, E.B., editor.Goode's World Atlas.Chicago: Rand McNally. Current edition. Foskett, A .C. The Subject Approach to Information. Hamden, Con- neticutt: Archon Books and Clive Gingley, 1969.

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Keck, Caroline K."Care of Textiles and Costumes: Adoptive Tech- niques for Basic Maintenance." American Association for State and Local History. Technical Leaflet *29. History News 29:2, February, 1974. Lewis, Ralph H. Manual for Museums. Washington D.C.: National Park Service. U.S. Department of the Interior.1976. Little, David B."Card Records, Their Organization and Duplication." In Museum Registration Methods pp. 127-134. By Dorothy H. Dudley, pl. Al. Washington D.C.: The American Association of Museums. 1958. Manning, Anita, "Data Retrieval Without a Computer." American As- sociation for State and Local History. Technical Leaflet *85. History News 30:9, September, 1975. Martin, E.W. Jr., and Perkins, William C. Coeputers and Informa- tion Systems: An Introduction.Illinois: Richard D. Irwin Com- pany and the Dorsey Press.1973. Munsell Book of Color. The Munsell Color Co., Inc., 1929. Murdock, George P. Outline of World Cultures, 3d. revisied. New Haven: Human Relations Area Files Inc.1963. Perry, Patricia, editor. Vogue Sewing Book. New York: Vogue Pat- terns.1970. Petterson, Cheryl, "Catalogue System and Care and Handling of Museum Textiles." Costume and Textile Study Center, Uni- versity of Washington, Seattle, 1978.Pamphlet. Picken, Mary Brooks. The Fashion Dictionary. New York. Funk and Wagnals Co. 1957. Ricciardelli, Catherine."Modification Technique Dictionary." in A Guide to Inventorying Ethnological Collections edited by Mary Sane Schneider, Museum of Anthropology, University of Missouri-Columbia, 1970. Unpublished manual. Rules For Compiling Catalogues. London: British Museum of Printed Books, Maps, and Music in the British Museum. Printed by order of the trustees.1936. 134

Schoephoerster, Lillian, "Historic Ccstume: Selecting and Testing A Registration System for the Costume and Textile Collection At the Ohio State University." Master's thesis. Ohio State University, 1977. Skewes, Martha Rene, "Survey of Reirieval Systems For Historical Costumes." Master's thesis.University of Kentucky, 1975. Stewart, Milo V."Organizing Your 2x2 Slides: A Storage and Re- trieval System." American Association for State and Local History. Technical Leaflet *88. History News 31:3, March 1976. Tillin, Alma M. and Quinly, William J.Standards for Cataloguing Non-print Materials, 4th Edition. Association for Educational Communications and Technology, 1976. Vickery, B.C. Techniques for Information Retrieval.Connecticut: Archon Books.1976. Vondercrone, Matilda Muth, "A Plan for the Storage of the Drexel Costume Collection." Master's thesis.Institute of Tech- nology, Philadelphia, 1957. Webster's New Twentieth Century Dictionary, 2nd ed.Edited by Jean L. McKechnie and Staff. New York: The World Publish- ing Company, 1970. Weihs, Jean Riddle; Lewis, Shirley, and MacDonald, Janet.Non- book Materials: The Organization of Integrated Collections. Canadian Library Association, 1973. Wilson, Katharine Foster."Analysis and Classification of a Col- lection of Southwestern Textiles." Master's thesis.Colorado State University, Denver, 1966. Wynar, Bohdan S.Introduction to Cataloguing and Classification, 3rd ed. Rochester, New York: Libraries Unlimited, Inc., 1967. APPENDICES 135 Appendix A

Historic Costume and Textile Workshop Flyer

North Dakota State University Fargo, Noilh I htkot Kalil!ism 11,1usa, Assistant Curator Historic Costume and lelen Allen Textile Collection Textile Workshop School of Family Resources and Consumer Sciences June 21-24, 1978 t lniversity of %ViSC011tiill 'Ube Kellogg Center lot (sot Cooing I Auculion itlichigan Slate I/no:visit y Margaret Oidoilez East Lansing. hfichigan Clothing, Textiles and Interior tesign Department Kansas State University Manhattan, Kansas Ila Pkornowski Department of Human Environment and Design Michigan State University East Lansing, Michigan Ruth Shelton Home Economics l)epantmnent University of Louisville Louisville, Kentucky Barbara Stowe, Chairman Department of I l.iimin Environment and Design Michigan State liniversity East Lansing, Michigan Stephania Winkler Department of !Inman Envip °lament and Design Michigan State Ilniversity East Lansing, Michigan Alice Ziebiec Department of Clothing and Consumer Economics University of Maryland College Park, Mal yland Workshop Planning Committee Anna M.Creekinore Kathy Cyr HarIntra Stowe Myrtle Jones, Conference t74)4)rtlinator Splatseardity' !typo, tinent of ttt an Encio ttttt 11.11I {11111 I el Depaitment of !finnan Environment, l'ollyge of Ecology and Design and tollege of Human Ecology Continuing Ethical ion Set ichigan State Ifnis y Continuing Education Service with the suptintt of: Michigan State University Michigan Council lot the ki East Lansing, Michigan 135 Appendix

Historic Costume and Textile Workshop Flyer

11 is torie Costume and Textile Workshop 1:30 Presiding - ha Pokoronwski. Michigan 4:30 II K I) Storage limbo a-MS11 Museum Conference Int Or motion p.m. Slate University Storage The Historic Costume and Textile Workshop Topic: Uses and Management of Collec- Reservations for housing may he made by com- materialized because of an expressed need for tions Itinner - on your own pleting the attached registration form and re- clothing and textiles departments to organize Elizabeth Ann Coleman, Drookly It Mu- 8:30- Viewing of slitle/tape presentations that turning it at your earliest convenience. Guest their collections to he more accessible and use- seum MVO sic available through the Smithsonian room accommodations at Kellogg Center are ful to the faculty and students theyserve and Purer. University of llawaji nslitutioo and American Association limited, and reservations must be made two to facilitate eXChange of information about MargaretI loffmen, University of Ar- for Stale anti Local I listory. loptionali weeks prior to the conference to guarantee holdings among departments across thecoun- kansas housing at the (enter. If Kellogg Center is fill- try. J 24 (Saturday) 3:00 Cofke ed, a reservation will be made for you ata near- 8:30 by motel which will confirm the reservation, The purposes of he workshop ere to share with 3:30- Presiding- Stephanie Winkler, Michi- Group Discussions a.m. time permitting. each- ot her !Nisi experiences in managing and 4:30 gm. State University using college ettllec lions and to foster coopera- Topic: Exhibits, Temporary Displays Registration begins at 7:00 p.m_ Wednesday, tive efforts toward sotto ions to common prob- (((((- on your own and Conservation June 21, 1978, at the conference registration lems among department S. 8:30- Viewing of slide/tape presentations that Tetnporary Displays - Margaret Ordo- desk in the Kellogg Center Lobby. 10:011 If you hat.e pttlicy statements. coding sheets, are available through the Smithsonian nez, Kansas State University Costs: and regist rat ion or ot her forms which you are Institution and American Asstwietion Conservation Ruth Shelton, Univer- willing to share, please bring copies for the for State and Local history. loptionall sity oilouisville Registration fee - $30.00 workshop group. Saturday Morning only - $5.90 June 231Fridayl 9:30 Coffee Housing - I lalf twin-bed room- $10.50 plus tax Program 8:30 Presiding - Marilyn Horn, University of 10481Planning the Exhibition of Costumes per person am. Nevada Clautlia Kidwell, Smithsonian Institu- Single room - $ 17.00 phis tax June 21 (Wednesday) Topic: Documentation of Collections tion 7:00 liegistration Claudia Kidwell. Smithsonian Institu- 10:45Value of Collections to historians tion Dr. Joseph Konvitz, Michigan State Kathleen Musa, University of Wiscon- University 8:00 Recept ion at Kellogg Center sin 11:00 Value Courses of Action Kathy Cyr, Michigan State University Pre-Reg istrn tion Form June 22 (Thursday, Anna M. Creek more, Michigan State Margaret Hoffman, Univeristy of Ar- University Please return this advance registration form if 8:30 Welcome - Dean Lois Lund kansas you plan to attend the conference. Adjourn a.m. Chairperson. Dr. flarbara Stowe 1000 Coffee Melody Costume and Textile Workshop 8:10 Presiding - Anna M. Creekmore, Michi- 10:30Champ Discussions June 21-24, 1978 gan State University 12:001.unch -on peur own Topic: Philosophy of Collections Name, Francis Duffield, Auburn University 1:30 Presiding - Barbera Stowe Michigan Elizabeth Ann Coleman, Brooklyn Mu- State University A lunation seum Topic: Facilities for Storage and Con- Millie I ladwin. Ella Sharp Museum servation Address MOO Coffee Elizabeth Ann Coleman. Brooklyn Mu- seum State ZIP 1030 Discussion of philosophy aimed toward Claudia Kidwell. Smithsonian Institu- evaluating a college collections philoso- tion Kellogg Center I lousing: phy. Carol Larsen. formerly of the Chicago Single Boom I late flistorical Society 12:00Lunch - on your own One Half-Twin Room (per person) 3:00 Coffee Date 3:30 Some College Solutions (Please indicate your choice of roommate) hlary Iit trot!. North Dakota Slate versa v Alice Zi:ebiec, I htiversi(y of Maryland 136

Appendix B Oregon State University Faculty Interview Schedule

Gates, Ruth May 11, 1978 User Deveney, Wayne May 11, 1978 User Jordan, Cheryl May 18, 1978 Potential User Swedlund, Harriet May 18, 1978 Potential User Bryant, Nancy May 19, 1978 User

Schrank, Holly June 2, 1978 User Brandt, Beverly June 2, 1978 Potential User

Schrank, Holly March 5, 1979 User

Gates, Ruth March 12, 1979 User 137

Appendix C University and Museum Personnel Contacted by Letter

Collins, Christiane C., Librarian.Parsons School of Design, 66 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10011 Coleman, Elizabeth, Curator. Department of Costumes and Tex- tiles, The Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, New York, New York, 11238. Cooper, Grace R., Curator.Division of Textiles, National Museum of History and Technology, Smithsonian Institute, Washington D .0.20560. Cyr, Kathy, Curatorial Assistant. Human Environment and De- sign Department, Michigan State University, East Lansing, Michigan 48824. Dickey, Lois, Chairperson. Textiles and Clothing Department, Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio 43210. Furer, Gloria, Curator. Western Costume Collection Depart- ment of Fashion Design, Textiles and Merchandising, Univer- sity of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, Hawaii 96822. Gerschoffer, Niki, Secretary/Registrar, Indiana University Museum, Bloomington, Indiana 47401. Greene, Candace, Curatorial Associate. Stovall Museum, University of Oklahoma, Norman, Oklahoma 73019. Harvey, Virginia I.Curator. Costume and Textile Study Center, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington 98195. Hellman, Dorothy, Assistant Director. The Traphagen School of Fashion, 257 Park Avenue S., New York, New York 10010. Hoffman, Margaret, Registrar/Conservator.University of Arkansas Museum, Fayetteville, Arkansas 72701. Landau, Zuki, Chief Librarian. School of Visual Arts Library, 209 East 23rd Street, New York, New York 10010. 138

McKenna, F. E.Executive Director.Special Libraries Asso- ciation, 235 Park Avenue S., New York, New York 10003. Morrissey, Ruth, Curator, Helen L. Allen Textile Collection. University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wisconsin 53706. Subject Analysis Systems, Faculty of Library Science, Library Room 404, 140 St. George Street, Toronto, Canada M5S Teague, Barbara, Textile Study Room, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, New York 10028. Terwilliger, Ann, Librarian. Traphagen School of Fashion Library, 257 Park Avenue S., New York, New York 10010. Touhey, John, Director.Fashion Institute of Technology, 227 West 27th Street, New York, New York 10001.

*Responded to letter. 139

Sample Letter Sent to Museum and University Personnel

Date

Museum or University Street City Dear Sir: Your cooperation is desired in answering the questions contained in this letter.The information you provide will be used to assist in the development of a classification scheme and cataloguing procedure for the collections belonging to the Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts Department of Oregon State University. Do you have a statement of purpose and use for the collection?If so, is it the same for all the collections, and what are the major points in the statement ? A copy of the classification scheme divisions and subdivisions, or if not available, does the system make possible the retrieval of examples of detailed descriptive data ? Identify the types of files and/or indexes used. What information is catalogued? What criteria has been established to evaluate the operation of the systems ? What are the advantages and disadvantages you can identify with the present systems ? Thank you for your cooperation and time. Yours truly,

Mrs. Diane Deforge 4120 Straw Drive N. Salem, Oregon 97303 140

Appendix D Personal Visit and Interview Schedule for Other Institutions

Virginia Harvey, Curator, Clothing and Textile Study Center, Univer- sity of Washington, Seattle, Washington. June 12, 1978 Lucy Skjelstad, Curator, Horner Museum, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon. November 12, 1978. Barbara Zentner, Registrar, Museum of Art, University of Oregon, Eugene, Oregon.April 27, 1978. 141

Appendix E Summary of Faculty Interview Responses 7 Responding - 4 Users and 3 Potential Users

u = faculty who do currently use the collection in the manner indicated p = faculty who do not currently use collection, but might at some point in the future in the manner indicated. 1. What do you see as the major functions of the Clothing, Textile, and Related Arts Collections of world and historic textiles, costumes, and slides ?

p Total 4 3 7 teaching: visuals, resources 2 2 4 research: (one responded that the present collections were inadequate for research purposes) 1 1 2 perpetuation and preservation for cultural and historic value 1 0 1 study 0 1 1 display 0 1 1 use by others 2. What are the main reasons for having any catalogue system?

u p Total 3 2 5 ease of retrieval 2 I 4 item identification 2 0 2 identification of collection contents 2 0 2 efficiency in locating needed information 1 0 1 cross-referenced to identify needed data 1 0 1 insurance purposes 1 0 1 greater use of the resource 3. Which of the following collections do/would you use ? Historic costumes World costumes Historic costume slides World costumes slides Historic textiles World textiles Historic textiles slides World textiles slides 142

u p Total

3 3 6 Historic costume 2 0 2 Historic costume slides 3 2 5 Historic textiles 1 2 3 Historic textiles slides 1 2 3 World costumes 1 0 1 World costumes slides 4 2 6 World textiles 3 1 4 World textiles slides Which areas or portions of the above collections do/would you use?

Total

4 3 7 areas which relate to course content and can be used to illustrate ideas and principles being studied. How frequently do/would you use the collections and with which courses ? Courses: Areas of Collection Used: Historic Costumes costumes, textiles, and Historic Textiles slides which deal with World Textiles the course content. Costumes and Cultures Other courses which draw from the collections for illustrative materials: Clothing and Man costumes and slides relating to cultures being studied Textile Design/Weaving tapestry slides - BC to present; Textile Design/Weaving Studio weaving illustrations; tex- Textile Design/Dyeing tile resist techniques Fashion Design Costumes and textiles which Flat Pattern provide design inspirations, Draping draping techniques, flat pattern techniques. 6. Do/might you use the collections for something other than classroom use? 143

u p Total

4 3 7 yes 4 2 6 display 0 1 1 student display 1 0 1 personal pleasure and interest 1 0 1 loan or Horner Museum 1 0 1 public service talks 1 0 1 inspiration for theatre costumes 7. What are the reasons for having a classifying and cataloguing system unique to collections of costumes and textiles and not mentioned in Question Two?

u p Total

0 2 2 identification of detailed information 0 1 1 cross-referenced system 0 1 1 bibliographic citation for documentation 1 0 1 retaining information over time 1 0 1 accession before cataloguing 1 0 1 provide central system regardless of storage location 1 0 1 provide for exchange among instructors' personal collections 1 0 1 provide information for new faculty members 1 0 1 provide for ease of personnel transitions 1 0 1 share information with other institutions 1 0 1 pinpoint specific features 144

Appendix F Purpose and Use Statement of the Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts Collections of World and Historic Costumes, Textiles, and Slides Recommended for Adoption

"Any information system should be designed so as to accomplish explicitly stated purposes in the most efficient manner possible" (Chenhall, 1975, page 11).The CTRA collections of world and historic costumes, textiles, and slides at Oregon State University are used primarily as teaching tools with items from the collections providing illustrations of specific detailed information. Costumes and textiles are taken into the classroom to broaden the education of students through exposure to artifacts. Students are allowed to handle and study the costumes and textiles during class presentations. Items from the costume and textile collections are used for display in the show cases to allow for viewing by students, to stimulate interest, and to illustrate concepts such as design influences. Slides are used to illustrate concepts in class lectures, for review by class or individual students, and for testing purposes. Maintaining and increasing the present collections provides for the preservation of items of cultural and historical value and interest and allows for future unanticipated use. The collections may be used In the near future by faculty and students for study and research. Students using the collections for study would become more familiar with the items in the collection, the qualities and characteristics of 145 the items, and would be able to assist in documenting the textiles and costumes. At present the collections are inadequate for research purposes because more areas of the collections do not contain enough items for research, and no place is available for study of the costumes and slides.The current collections are not sufficient for comparative studies, but the collections can function as a motivational source for research. The collections may be used by the faculty for purposes other than teaching resources, such as loan to Horner Museum for special public displays, and inspiration for design and construction of costumes for campus theatre productions. 146 Appendix G Summary of Faculty Interviews Regarding Ex- pressed User Needs

User Needs

What information do you need which the present systems donot provide? 2 - more specific information 2 - techniques 2 - dates 1 - form of garment 1 - description 1 - history 1 - fabric type 1 - fiber content 1 - cross index 1 - consistency of detail of information available 1 - slides identified by culture and cross-indexed What classification divisions and subdivisions do you need to be able to retrieve the desired information? 3 - description 4 - date 4 - construction details 4 - technique 3 - fiber content 1 - design movements 3 - fabric name 1 - inspirational concepts 3 - country 2 - individual artists 3 - specific culture 3 - fabric construction 1 - form of dress 3.What problems do you have with the present cataloguing systems in locating desired information? 2 - collections organized by different systems, should be the same 1 - cannot accession till catalogued 1 - lacks cross-index system 1 - specific subject headings index 1 - cross-index of detail 1 - no information on technique 1 - card file is cumbersomeeasier to find item in storage 1 - textile storage is inefficient 1 - limited storage space 4.What are the advantages of the present systems which should be retained? 1 - good costume descriptions 1 - dates on costumes 1 - costume information is sufficient except for geographic location 1 - country designations 1 - culture identified on some items--desired on all items 1 - relative ease of object location in storage Potential Users Needs Are you familiar with the present cataloguing systems, and, if so, what are the advantages and disadvantages of the system? 1 - no 1 - little with historic costumes 1 - little with system, but mostly with collections--disadvantages, the catalogue system is not helpful for general use and lacks background information on garments What information would you need which the current systems do not provide ? 1 - period designations for furniture 1 - artist, architect, designer, monarch 1 - use 1 - categories for metal, earthenware, glass, etc. 1 - descriptive data 1 - orientation to the collections and systems used (not familiar with present system) 1 - catalogue system which would allow for greater potential use of all items. 148

Appendix H Summary of Information Users Desire to Have Recorded and Retrievable* Data field number Information desired 34a-34e Place of origin *political--continent, country, state or island, city, town 33 *cultural--culture area, culture group

48a Fabric *fiber content *yarn construction *fabric construction *fabric finish *fabric name 50a-50e Color--identify first four, then indicate as "multi-colored" *color identified *method of application *dye source *type of dye

61a 61e Motif--identify predominant three or four including the following information: *motif name *method of application *method of application *motif type

55b *Age--infant, child, adult

55c *Sex--male, female, unknown

52 Garment measurements--size

91 *Garment type coats and wraps outer garments under garments accessories--hand, head, neck, waist, leg, foot, other 149

Data field number Information desired

55d *Special use 55e *Special person

25a Date

31 *Time period

91 *Object name

48 Techniques 48a *fabric construction 48b *structural design 48c *applied design 48d *other

22 Designer, monarch, artist

46-61 Description, as much as possible

5 History

32 *Design movements

32 *Inspirational concepts

22 Individual artists

*Retrievable information 150

Appendix I

Summary of Second Interview Results

Retrieval of items major users agreed upon: time period or date of use provenance, political and cultural item name techniques for garment and fabric construction fiber content Retrieval of itams desired by one major user and supported by other users in previous interview: age sex special person special occasion design techniques, structural and applied motif designer, artist, monarch tools and equipment for textiles Retrieval of items desired by one major user for administrative purposes: value including the accession number and item name 15 1

Appendix I Current Historic Costume Classification Categories

Type of Garment

Outer Garments Accessories blouse boa bodice chatelaine bolero collar dress comb dress 2-piece fabric for a purse dress 3-piece fan dress 4-piece fichu fabric for a dress gloves jacket handkerchief jacket and skirt hatpin cushion and hatpins man's formal suit hat shirtwaist mourning crepe skirt nightcap spencer jacket parasol suit purse wedding dress reticule wedding dress 2-piece tie shawl Undergarments sash bustle shoes camisole stockings chemise combination Coats and Wraps corset cape corset cover coat drawers Doleman wrap dressing gown man's formal coat hoop wrap nightgown nightshirt panties petticoat Time Period Designations

1790-1799 - Directoire 1800-1814 - First Empire 152

Time Period Designations ,Cont.

1818-1829 - Restoration 1830-1849 - Louis Philippe 1850-1869 - Second Empire 1870-1889 - Victorian 18 90-18 99 - Gay Nineties 1900-1913 - New Century 1914-1918 - World War I 1919-1929 -Flapper Era 1930-1939 - Depression 1940-1946 - World War II 1947-1953 - New Look 195 4-19 60 - Classic Era Sex Designations

women, non-women 153

Appendix K Current World and Historic Textile and World Costume Classification Categories

Major Classification 1.Embroidery 27. Special historic 2. Weave 28.Books 3.Print 29.Pamphlets 4.Tie and Dye 30.Paintings 5.Felt 31.Prints 6.Knit 32. 7.Lace--needlepoint 33. 8.lace--bobbin 34. 9.Finish 35. 10. 36. 11. 37.Ceramics 12.Lisio Reproductions 38. Glass 13. Costumes--women's 39. Metal Costume--men's 40.Pa per 15.Costume--children's 41. Wood 16.Costume--undergarments 42.Plastics 17.Costume--accessories 43. Cane--Rattan--Grass 18. 44. Dolls 19. 45.Puppets 20. 46.Looms 21. Shawls 47.Spinning wheels 22. Rugs 48. Spindles and bobbins 23. Coverlets 49. 24. Quilts 50. 25. Tapestries 51. Miscellaneous 26. Geographic Locations

A Africa-Algeria, Belgium, Congo, Morocco Baltic States-Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania BI British Isles--England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales CA Central America--Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, HondurasNicaragua, Panama CEuB Central Europe--Bulgaria, Romania, Yugoslavia CEuH Central Europe--Austria, Czechoslavakia, Hungary, Poland Ch China--Manchuria, Mongolia, Tibet Eg Egypt 154

Geographic Locations

France--Belgium (Flanders)nders ) Germany Gr Greece IMA Islands of Mediterranean and Aegean--Astyphalia,Balearic, Crete, Cyprus, Mitylene, Mykonose Maxia , Paros Rhodes, Sardinia, Cicily,,Skyros In India--Ceylon, Kashmir, Pakistan Io Indonesia--Borneo, Sumatra IPB Islands of Pacific--Bali, Hawaii, lava, Samoa IPP Islands of Pacific--Philippines It Italy Japan Korea Mexico Netherlands NA North America--Canada, United States NET Near Ea st--Jorda n, Israel, Saudi Arabia NEP Near Ea st--Afgha nista n,Persia (Iran) NET Near East--Iraq, Syria, Turkey Russia SA South America Sc Scandinavia--Denmark, Finland, Norway, Sweden SCA South Central Asia--Burma, Indo-China, Malaya, Siam (Thailand) Sp Spain Sw Switzerland Turkestan Unknown 155 Appendix L

Original Form for Evaluating Proposed System Procedures with Responses Given by Three Users

Categories and subcategories are comprehensive and relevant for a collection used for display and teaching. 1 - strongly agree 1 - agree 1 - agree--relevant and disagree--comprehensive 2.Terminology is common, simple, standardized, and definable. 1 - strongly agree 1 - agree--if one has strong familiarity with the field 1 - stated partially under comments, and underlined definable 3.Categories and terms are consistent, so similar objects can be catalogued in the same manner. 1 - strongly agree 1 - agree 1 - no opinion--with comment "at this point" 4.The system is easy to use for recording information about each object. 1 - strongly agree--but had difficult time identifying the spaces which used informational background of the recorder, and which used special lists. Also had difficulty in locating specific list used. 1 - agree for data fields 1-20, and disagree for remainder 1 - disagreeprobably would agree if all references are in one volume or if directions could state more explicitly which reference to use when 5.Code numbers are easy to write down and remember. 2 - agreeprobably with more experience 1 - disagree 156

6.Placement of an object into the system is objective. 2 - strongly agree 1 - disagree 7.Category subdivisions are mutually exclusive. 2 - strongly agree 1 - disagree

8.Objects are described in the system, rather than information interpreted. 2 - strongly agree 1 - disagree

9.Adequate information is provided on the Catalogue Worksheet for the collections to be used for display and teaching. 1 - strongly agree 1 - strongly agree--information is present, but hard to find--need better identification of categories using lists, the name of the list and specific location 1 - agree 157

Appendix M

Chenhall's Cataloguing System

Reprinted, by permission of The American Association for State and Local History, from Museum Cataloguing in the Computer Age, by Robert C. Chenhall. Copyright 0 1975 by The American Associa- tion for State and Local History.

52 1.11150.164 woaT TO RECOIAD 53 tellencatepoiesItc lloweVer,Exttlttled least duofor thealmost collectiente isolweevationte too indeliesittelycertaioly long maitugement for about the human museutst put-stowed into mind aspecintena hal to ofseemreadily ullaervational thatto plu4*4.fall are into must olkserVallOnS 411111 con he made about jeurceiveleles objects can databoth)assigningorII tuuttnerclasses record.to each a mustthatdistinctive Inobject. inbe distinct used 1st registrution afor computerfront this everypurpoae, numbercataloging other and possible othersor catalogsystem may aileellnell, atbenumber leastdesirable artifact. two tor summed catalogiug ayatent 1116 accomplished by or I OciginsOriginsHistoryObject of itlentilication, ofOrthe the the object: object object: spatial locatiou.Mb cultural a specime11. and and other temporal artifact bookkeeping or record type dataleer of Set/Ural generie groups: iteverywith 1101110 computer kinds record of objects. arm 'flee two absolutebur assigued (I11111111i41 to Recordit fur classes identification number. that insist Each purposes. be computer completed This record for may must be the have a distinctive categories within each of ilietid genericInIi.It. Ow7. Classification jearagrardesgroups ere defined of&het the follow, object:euttlIleseriptiouI (W- lescriptionthy typological most commoneel of thatlendthe object:object: functional.ubaervattional cantle:sit physical Orcharacteristioe decoration. elearactere.ascatalog touniquelong identify asIlUnther, accessioneach If a numbers lotrecord It ordues number. ast is are Ind identifiedobject. assignedmutter registration or with what it bymay a lotsdistinctnumberingnumber. be when a setseparately or objects of systembite alphanumeric number isassigned used used are first intotetherens:sea.'h*at!number lugehte members numberseach in order data would thatus category identify identify be the is that oquivalentassigned data data fields category a of consecutive withinend lespee thedistinct hops computerparagraph converted from any caregory. When used in is particular itsformation opium*, auntiealibiedual6accessioned, below), iteatta number to withthem are theadditienial entesedcataloged. for rtword identification, as liitheraulentembern theIf the recordcan objecta it be is number. the usuallyand themselveslot records ntliistbef desirable created beenhave to haveparagraph numbers that us individ- coo:Meet:aittreetifyhometimosItsonls. data teautative. beencategories used lholouttfeilly,Of to onnottition identifyTim numeric itadmixes.hut will of he observational tags changed that areas dollen:titcategories used to presented Iture ahould be leflos onnohlrOr and nanohlhint Chola number Ituvit onpossiblyday acronym he partially to have or an lessor ablateviseion fully than merged positive identifying with object other identification the similar recording catalogs, front inalittitilM. recordltecording it is institution. With computer catalogs that enay adelititat it is essential 'but every record £01111141 some- les,sealingletals.loosellois Ars 44441166444*. upthe and is needs nee/ different land of the ehtbsea particular of objects dictate flue steeel for adeli- at precise deltottions. E'erArnold the present, lioth select anyone from uttel add to thia Mann require. elevitsiowitsNoe Will/ malty. though Mil necessueily,Additional thin will data he classes the institution that etre 111481 useful tts identification eolltrols the object. types of 51411444:15148 tdrieela are: or locution of itscuetable eerie eateries habit cataloging bat.44 are Spilt:111. intendedIn 421 willule sea a "short ye us form" list of observatioleal 4Ii, I hese theta category definitions 1148841 the ennal-refurellre I will serve Lei guide to may vitiAlu to any individual lhe creed WO aretoas the themIke cutalog dist 4nher int:lieu sets record of itemehees number, enter3 an-ntadeOthereittenbers record objects and nustebess. lulterli. often haVeOften In affixed additionthese to the number that is used bias of plebe:ea or former ownerte. If they assist tlesitMAI411141 tog itat Is. ims Seilfli$ of data the containedcatalog of in Milne the catalogs nettscuan of othermanyl:tt eveatoallr than ettuseusine. therVe OS 44 Intsis flbY the exchange Or Sinn- OWII, classes.areIII the tee positive WailsOften, Onoidessaificution however, must artifact/Abe described of the4. are Photograph object, regularly with they a completenegativephotographed, should benumbers. set recorded. of partly ditto In SUMO tiallaeUtIlS for14Object blentMeotion. 1.414± 411411111,:to chtietiiittland tither Bookkeeping*emanate ot Botts any catalogingositiVe system ea the provision 481 the sitectisten, artifact, or record he Inin*4(study, the theas11441 etcatalogilllotegraph,publieettion. ineananegative under ofnumbers identificatiouo, the publiciey (0444445kIveonl purposes.nniliberhil in et Cabe iiiii berm) Whenofof loss theshould this artilactor always theftis done, andbe recorded partly tor (ii) appeering a record bit 4.10S1F414,1 CAtAlOtiltai INTIAI TO fiECOHO 59 14.44 1 14 attar ...pec 1110). be 141'401'4144 1401114 ('4. 4.11.1114 feaelirell ibli ill die htisimy pi the tlbject no The tire ttt t 4104144% I 1:1 114114Specimen. i-oilect too, Artifract 04 (ill 41141$ The hpi.chh.II ii 4410.00 1114V Iaaao ustpithlisistll tile of data Iliad0111 4 is 141'0141 ton recorded in any I Cm:Aug. l'Itts may be II Mthiscuie 41111441141144rI 484, 11411111 entatInit. file Or however. sl 141 if 1e114- categoried required to recordan life KO hill/011:041 leaft billowingthis will varytwelve raise041efaldly 14414 $411 from tow appear to of/1'1We the Me to ormolt :411144 additional 44ye2en01411143414411 did a. The vilify may 11114i41111111O4 additional Uniter data the iat nameavail- disciplinehe $444411regularly to 4141 another, 811(1 used: (14411 butMir ilte 9. Collector. Thu name of the ai01 Meat died WItO recovered the object 11 mienlilic/cottoral 4,0f64,able the vataluilIlu at the (II. recording 111144141. huditsition.ii N her of items. If a singleIsr remit1 of itt.tits 1111 itbu.$1441, lb I they are physieallyin I that lot should he recorded lief Is assigned in a gent:mei 44144:41apacioten/artifact,go v14114141. the 11411114: III theII) Date collected. 'Ile daiu ilte nisgwi WOW 4111h11111 director ol the V 14$W4111114111 Or or eliC11- witllthaspecimeos. each categoryIf desired. esproetingOeVeral 111.114 "smother ralego114:24 of may he used Its recold hers of items of dillerent kinds itschttled in the 10t -dad la. items." 'number of y lectionVII1C11." Or e4.1:UVOlit111 Wad I. Espeditittat. The title 4:44114.11U434412. of the expedition during which prepared the the col-41411 11111$ Items," etc. 84411Age 141e11144111. 11144 1444:1111011 411 11111illiel, record for computer entry, it lit:corder. The Hamm of theawl it olividual who should Mum 1er11141.the :entree who of any ex.41irawi4. temely uselid piece of informatiott for inventory 4'01111.01 1111r444ee1114. las, etc.) whose no objecl is madly aimed can be sat 1114141e 111111 1111411 information appearing iit 1111: IS Dale recorded. The date Om entry W414 C011111.11utell.' totraeunt artilacta ea:ample,41:1444In alb('1444 444 $4.I4' byIIVe t hungistg the ebonite location to reed ON LOAN To can be used itat a basis for $1141e1'actual physical iiie tegniar control-fin entries cam bi However, even gilt,important bequest,161 to knowport:base, how loan.the *4 anal the method Method of acqutsitt Ill aettu144i144111 44114je4.4 Woliat:. acquired 1 1 111c 114114)by the. 1)1pr./auntWith many invite': 141e k110W11, additional LIC4101:4114/11 deliii1a cam it is if 11144Vellieliltiwhile 141 h414.41 are controlled II catalog byrecord itof IN the v.vall persitatitesit %Milo. Soma storage ttttt locations.scummosEom, specimens or hove --- Ali HxmitiT. diciusT cAsE ))))) e 41111121' 1111:411i14. it la still worth- paragraphho tablaitied front accoutititig Clete of acquisition. The dote Ili., 4:1Ee4i1ion records it needed. (However, see acquired by the preaestt ill also $4 %%inchmostareValueIII ol 4441411.*moieties. ea he 41411 segularly ill systeittafit:114111U appraised this through categoty for aityistattrattcu tier Will purposed. Whoa vaItteu sl Id Ire int bided DS at parr of the catalog. tht -protected information,-operation. Cure should colscersting14,1114.4141tious id thethe us41names catalog of acc ofis thedowns. ability to tttttLII 1101101. The olli: 'tog records for iletailsAn important Ity-prothiet 10 attain current liblathe at stateilielit all olajects segariliog at:twist- id a 1911411)11' :444In.' eNe141144.41 111411 Mei kkkkk ariee 111111 iler44446-111e-14olif4l1111. voniptilef. FM'1%1 10(400111e. C1611100,3* ii 11144111111144Cell he Miele iife le4milla41 00 4111111: I1:4.01411 aiWayli record present value in a colisistestt 101'111111. given Itu 41141 ilili0e111/1 44 gift Or betititusl bi the catalog414. dilluteat record.411 always have the As 110110f with other categoties Ally artifact reel:14/4A 111411 US a Separate tecotilealin ale& dollars. Oils way without on an 411411 11440413. 1111414 Mei dollar digns, they /should be Infinitiwhichamiable hefting eategury Sc it., last tttttel 00 files lust is important, it 1 he eantuitileiitly is eaisent till 10110wt01. tin 4111e recorthog .4114411,, wade III 41411444411 I 1114114, 411eAu s appraisal IS mei ttt t Ille 4' ttttt 1444.0111 may eventually contain molt iple V1111)- 11111131114 040; kilows when jt WIlil 411(14(1 loll 11411e e11014141 1141 fccorilud ic retrievable through any tiet work 411113144$ systeout this category ts 144 eater than (lie ireceptIisig -protected information." which III mot 111(1,4 11 ao14 al vim III 1411' v44114410044 entry-perhapsroill141111411011 sepattat of cid :welded:a. frontlay the a dollarspace-hyphen-space fe.g., 2550114a 111)15) or by a ttttt e ataileeaparagraphby it the recording tit:dilution. Owner init)'(44, 1111111$ 410441141141e It) 411814144$t Imo objects that me as part of a temporary If an object is acquired exhibit, it 11 011 not owtteil .1341113114104111 (Nee tat till MuSetif,. CA VALOGINCO 1/141AT TO fiECOH11 61 II111111 1111. totelser'e onlineIs appear on the catalog rut:ord. 'Into 441owner's ottsto atiqteur when items uru 1111 1110131, 11141141141 101 reprinted a work of art. 1111 SCrtin, 1)54111, Mail, photograph. or other tion.Ilseingsearolt institution.on As tierlimps with will noes.al likewise In the lltat rectortling booure notti011oeuioe in tit*:of 11reltavologica1 pityttical tabor thanlowsussiosi the recordists of tilts record-institu- 11114144.14 etuisisteucy of formal is essential. tor historic sites differentephemeraworkshop, kind* or protlacedtar of 144h4)411 objects 14 motion thisto which may picture. Illehe tolojeelOa artist, le currently maker attributed.dvaigitu$. ForArtist, photogrupber. The name of the creative $114154 £4114444 sorlisle401 41131111111CWOr14411411414% Vend 011i1111 14)1111 11441 separate 11ountiolisises the owner front pruswist (purest-414iIlits recordingId special Post:Lama Iisroblecatt ?)and institution. flits thatIII present oilier14444.1.14414 titan the rut:aiding institution). Obiecta posses- for of(alternate)Illphotographer,these. thisKhoury data artiste. category. attributions or Separate motion-picture the 1114111413 will 414111 Ite waled director.categories and If maylistedmultiple he aa added cut the rim etpsivaletil111 arc mirth: secosulary *wilds or secondary provide 10stInfill StiaCES ikeei) se4441e1e4. 44443 CII 141414814.1 C1111111111tertilal WC. ill 44I111111 CatalOg 111101-111111i1111 1111151.11111144.III whore 10 a I5I$S4I44I4I,I4 int alleluia Ili:story of ownership. Iteonstika about Iltu known changes of loculittol. (lotus und virtuosi- 41f conjec- 114 114144413 curves-,who (.(15115114114 egooter, or lithographer. ad to the tooakiug of IOu ubjuct as a technician snowTechnician, artisan. lithographer. The mune of Ilia intlividt.ial Ilittloiltype lit1111111 (see paragralsit 211. Iteferenc421. 1)414.1ti4tei4t14ry sourcte referling to u may lot maintained III 11 illatiutti tile 01111 looted 144 "ittldi- or illustriaing aaa book, musty or 1111 other iscven written different documents. dataTemporal categories provenunce (paragraphs may 25 require. to for differentAuthor. Thekinds name of objects, of the author of a play, a 11101 1011 piCtUre, 11). torstosoinethe lingall itoloorinatiou conies tobjet-t.titer or Entries (b) syateitis subdividing it' this sii-ovitho catugorY author, the may possibilityyear, take title. sulky of journal, sem-citing lent'. and!however, and ciliary references 011 144.44. by fa 1 suggesting a fixed format so maythe1441.145141 betime a 1l101111/143 of origin 10 tile of4444443, object the object by its (secpossessor25 Datealso paragraph for usedisplay. on labels31 A helmet. standard to indicate This number or numeric phrase Ill' 11 probable range of dotted, or an approxi- OriguisOlt tine, of theseparate Object: thus' Cultural cult:once. um! Tenipmal approximatecanmation be ofattributed. the the most actual Thispiubsoble date represents of origin. date211. This(e.g., a limiting dataEarliest e. 1750).category date possible is 81411111514341 date The earliest year to whicit the object only and need not most 4)11r4.e13. 1111Ve 11 144111101111 1111111:1111311All objects 43.11111e of interest kind; awl to 1111111-11111de museums have II :spatial provenance; 441 to be usable for tot:arching and sorting posposes.Id be Igo-est:sited in /A stailtlard 6111111/1 Therefore. dates 141. 1111 At ithic loIIlecattse1411 erne: iiiii 11,1413.I couveitient used I41 ItoIlse Can &sit:node 111close 1111 111114.e heIelrlett litilecharacterized periodstoverittiogoitigiCat Ural Alia 111111acconliug cultural relultionaltilt temporal 111 periods. their mishits cultural lielwevisit has together. origins. been lite tilIt11 &WWII liteiiiii etu1 imitated prectxlcilelutietla elyie. byhikes at 11111103. sl Sign (1.50 11.C.) Or 11 IsI 114., 4%I 424311 11 Modern date, 1101 llte tittle 1111111 Om' A. II. 4. as3.e1111rately.Spatial motion provenance pit 411141S, (geographical it hi 11103.41112 Or 111111tI144I With10 provide 1111411- 411'i4%i110 II lengthy list of calcitoliett to artifacts, especially spe.cializet1 collections such ore stelae:it Geological27 34Lanot Stage. possible and paleontological date See paragraph specionena 24%.Series.System. are normully dated in cresttOnthelbw ion allottlyprothicittott. liteof hour mostiterstele groupstypes witti of Wive of artilliCIS individuals. 4444404540 Can The way persons been associated with los the list that follows, provision has Leen maths cutaloged adequately within iiiii sible hot- the creating tbethea hierarchy LexiconChristian ofof eivientlar. system,Geological series, It isNames recommended awl31. ofstage Cultural the Unitedrather 4)42 that 144.444. thantheStales tern '1'11e be i i followed.iiii mune Iogy assigtted of to particular time period by reference to Ithese 1113 classes 21 tol fact lifer, printer. The name111111 01 (1143 munttfactured lirin (or OCCaSiOnally the object 1114 44 production basis. 111e1544.remainedllottrizoo relatively tor epoch) iambic 41111-104% within Wiiich definable cultural geographic ulnae and ttrotssesuldagta 111411 4:1113.44 41011111 be Contrasted curt:holly with Develop- WrIAI 10 I$54COIW 11 .44tetn31 4,1ayo.SOISLtile tel CAIALouttsa lear:40111111 42,111141 evil 4 %ilium! classilivation, Ipassigiapii 311.1 and one 4,4114-1 4111144 14111.11411\ 116 all tindillesential 4441 44g1 aph II l.sjs ul 14eielaplit41111441Mage ttir style 40441061144/11401. sIage. 43. litatiegsailli 24.4 !de. 11.114: name assigned las a particular decoratiog. etc. 4444(te54ie111 348 Coolineo. III swathe localit% tsai ot Ocean 31e1 /00111114110004101dp111Cal ottetallais'.'.511Vials tIII'. $tage or temporally allay Aso I' lw used dill.with 11.111 natural acieswe apecionata to a bevial tor resists :all 4 O1141114 Itristtpu titbit thlterentdlinension tittiva rimy he repentedpri i iii rily. rather than either a pisteesi. Deeelsop- 34c,814183444 Cowell/ w pia:wince (NE.Subaiaa10141111 SW. Weep elc )) futilely 454114111e 'it cotorill classiiiest inure htfinti. vie. Unless tanied adult maturity ia .III afeltiteolOgirld retiettfell i name is 34d3444 County Wall CityIsland w Iowa )1 debiteduser ofirli144rill 14664;114Aa parileitlaf110.60 11066111/11101y IIIlistw-spacednritial toisieelg It coalateill 60111e44t.aile 441 Ille Thethree 11101test4111114.11144111h, used 14111 11114: el11111110116 II4II the Conlin's-de I.i the V1:11114'11 intent iingy berd placingItroadi ordiem 1141110W in regard to 34034/ Specific sciddiss, Site owes SpecificSae owns eddless3*448 ) tot the.11 three 415 61\410114113111116 le 451 411061ruet0551 rather (paragraph think II leinporal 321. period Maragraph 35. Place ot origin tit 41111erent Saddirections to a difeCtionlifate It 10111481 that allowsfrom II place of ilisearecy ) to he placed 11:111Ihrgios 0111111 .4 /het/Ny.1: place. With 6411114 tijastio/ 6106.se44 411. 01404144 4414441141pfuVetiaileu specimens were either discovered or created at 11 ally It410 originated 11111104:1 in 5441141 411640Veleil (416, as in evidenced by its 141emilialile viiiiy somewhere other In than wheat. and 14:141114e111111541:1115:eri.normally descrihed 1001 15114C1114: III terme 104:1111114.1). of political WW1 411114444,units (countrica, 1111.4164 110010-uph1cal mates, or ofphysical the Ohio properties. Hopewell An example which oriel:mica Ohio region by prehistoric. 111101. might be copper found 114 a comest is tipper Michigan 11101 WW1111 60111 sot &signaling spatial aoritS,lats createsst lw 4t44IsI1rilteCial 1111416Ior the geological 01. prohlutotos strticitire. With Ei11:11 fit liteue islet 14144144 544 11160 6101114100, 144441 with yet other 1144646, proviaion 1111664pcoliablyIv lite11 curriedpiac6 of into the 14e place or discovery. Tile sdral lee 06441 11414 11 desired. origin sllotild lie recorded 4:01111111111;161404 411.61i-110A in paragraph hot this will Kidd in a data category separal e 11 ever, Poe specimen's descriplion in lenses III41.As/Alicia 144)111 Have praare4,111tot alistesseere. 41)1 1144. Pectoral400lies-1144ll14. tile oine tot the lattice II 'V. Political pitovtr demignations involve which IMS 4011111111111114:4.1itiitiy11415 may provenance lie 54'1 de:Agitations,iicogi1lphi4ui414411141114/141111110111'44141111e. up 54th to 4e444541 provenance III lieVe111141661111C 1111111 4011000- Iii 11411141i011in precise 14101 111geographical orlw IIthe may olnect require came it.1: series Ililor titio-11 where tot data 4414 it wascateiserleoi 144111114A discovered Maragraphs hierarchically 01 created. relatediiiii This political may place names 'lilt eti utitteitteool tot looculit y (i 4... paragraph 31 alotiel, la through 1.411115iirehiniology. tines Winne an 01111 Localit y three tst 14445141 ge01411,1141111,110641161140. she slumbers in ortler to identity ohjeet was collected or 1.'5.111V Ai In the Old acieitces. 1144145 11114416ely .11 are loin;411111111CIV3iliai ran as theIse largest101111111:41, Or MAUCH' tisolot catalpas); aorte41. III and the listed hierarchy stilalitisiosereither lot as lewd individual may sts be userdata defined tor is i0ll'114:4114*1' collectitost (re., 01411 the largest through the usliulleul. Au 401treritienily tonna*11111116 is14101invest essential 10 apecdic hot' 37. Intrasite proveMen0'e.'" 1110114001150 1111 .111111 Irmo that s11e. retrieval purposed. 111 1111111140100y. 4141114 1110 other designations within a gives* Consistency ot fro:411141111y smosettotesII il l, iltsI illecittiti411'y Ito woe the entire itierarcirri For11111\ example.Ill be Mr AO ie Indy 111C C lry Ill migm atimmairredline. 111 order by levels, to makc. squares, silt or ies possible. II is esseinial that 64 MUSEUM CATALOGING WHAT 10 ItEC0110 65 manlierwhalethe record it wu on every 44)jet'S *littlish* a precise designation of exactly lay I I awl thus eitell &IA he recorded in a consistent Descripi.by definition sstslht-iOiitIY Thu physical and genetic al" 41w Ohleci: Physical Characteristics dependidsle tie ho at iiii totalized in a attributes:recog- of biological specimens Are, otconsittentlymethod hiformation of ilt:sigtsating be byciliumd largest ain specific unitsis way and thatlocality within will infacilitate thisemployed, by smallerthe theamitmarization dataunite. should This Township/range/section. When the tovdoship andretrieval renge and sortiog. apecintennizedvariahlesodiet typological needs (see to paragraphmuch he claesilication. recorded. so thug461 Mills-111Mb/ artifacts,typological however,usually classification Are is Ilia only is physieal Often Ist such summarizingcases the condition artifacts, those characteristic Ittiresnely a little of the that must...usthehowever,is "sr.nothave following possibletfor hauling WICtowaship example: (Wield with zeros andthe likes toT2:IN, normalrange) lige 1116W. Well areengineering essential,ogled NW, successfullyNE, method end NE. theThe of numeralsis letter..recording. shown in objectsltelostgvalutaacteristic*complish oftogether" the this, in Melee separate, provision frequently matetial. aurtable can lu seurching, sorting. or A lie made to record theme fatal, color,categoric*. tor size. has he determined only by grouping plryeical char-elder Ile ac- tionu.y;lisi1;1...section will the not data 1. mid Theshould VIA'Asection. deaignationa he entered NW, to facilitate NE, NE refer Latitude/longitude. As with township/range/section designa- T93N will sort ahead of T23N, hut ttttt uniza(ion by to %section, meneach)curator will tovary expressshould condition,try to stud Condition. The words used to considerably from rine class of develop brief expressious (tow or two s isms 0851 them in is consistent elleeker. record the condition of a speci- objector to another. Each wordsmake either(e.g..largest by 72-09'22"N, always units and recording 101P2T0'4"13) within thisa composite by or smaller by plefiwing entry units. with each This. longitude port of the first entry may be dotte isup constructed the piquet (e (og.. 4(., a A Technique.Material. The A1114111e brief tilikiellteitr et any geological specimen)1111111-111kele Or out of material or materialsof thethat methods that were which the ohject used recordedantidesiguationwith 39 (41appropriet so g ofus localityto providesymbols other the (e.g., than Seine 11172°09'22-Nthose TO.fel tttttt describedOilier arizution expressions and tat possibilities I.A1011°2702"E).paragraphs uf locality. dis- 38 Any method used fur the precise Marsden Square*. Global Re(ereoce Code) should be technitpussto createwell as AU materials. include urtifect. referenct however, a expression of technique. The 1st s phrase sleekto asthe PENillellA11111:1113 & INIC orterminology and phraseology coin-staitdard phrases for describing toots used Ils is, in fact. follow. cussed in paragraphs :18 and 39.41.12 All it lulu. 1/cpt Is. tttso the object in order to 49 Medium.ly Aused atautlard in any 'testicular entries, reproduction coode:wide: the physicistWert1 features or phrasediscipline attached should by be the guide to , 1:i the 1stun. solequatulyThis eel ry theAsusa adat meatsiiielberielit standard a moil or theguatml Oftformat tttt of i placingsurface)i ofit ismeasure, suggested it wherein the that155 properthe thatthere thespecimen there coverbeminimal be ttttttt ticieoctsi entail habitat. 1lio ptecists altitude (or depth beneath tio punctuation issed, a spacewas collected between is mayha a0101use becatalog hisShe difficult labels, ALUM! record. eatto MS tict.:tilteulog Hutt51). Coles. The colors used IleWeVer. color termsthat are It,, Itehe 1 ail lig technique in Alk'hoot: oil ha paintiog Ott 5e114011 are usuelly to tog:luau see searchable cataloging tparagritpli -$8 I. them eUriell andlbw that fathoms). alitsteciatitssis be FT (for.13 feet), MS (for 141I meters) and FM devicedevicesethnographic for fin LA:manic objecta us,.th vessels,such 114401k as 1111 ducts,61. FUlle (Allege!). Foam. tcitthleie,American basketry, Indian pottery. manylike other color. is a searchable awl a biological specimetis. catalogingclas.ses of accordanceits a hierarchy with standardized of geological terminology unitsrlieeltigiCAI that inmune eachMed the RAICOIllielegiedlregion layers uf the earth. specimens use1111143111.er. mally located or strata in measurement.ticalUr weight purposes. use to separatehowever, be data is descriptive52. I)imensitets. weight. lo otslialssasiLutI or otherwise categories sl research projects ist which category may Woo be Id be established manipulatedfor each tor statis- dimensions Provided ba 1.11341. UN CAI/W(14300i MIA] WO H1e.0111) .044 011114414. in Ilse Catalog as Kriteria aaaaleaaei 141114vir aaeac ad 1110 11111Sical portrayed or 411444104441 jaa 1111. iii111:444 1Witnt caiselogcel 1104' alsopara- lewd:Il toe113 a' 4:1. re:times, attached jeorta.I;is 11;ii With I 11. "1 litler ti4011411. W; 1,1 . I solca tilts Is in any Intro goose artifacts§ h 14 ht:111141 10 of data in met ordinarily di" 20-; 'nowt&etillt114:14.to,graph I a) mythologielik lice ICrins omit !Slav be Ilt 014). ortttt they may be aceleerie tellants. beings, 114,ities, description of the sat144111 assail lii ail teal pemiens. lice halal sir 111.1414. atiratalatedhittlat. aen tallitralt$1 $t.aslasaa.aasacalt ciilegoiy W41141111 for the isIevlaaK description lie deal:tilos ofdonee attaeloal a eaieaiia kola». A few litiii worths. her exankplu. porta or lesetureas are olivesparts 401 Or 111.10140subjectsare not 1011141sie111141 adequately {paragraph Or Ind Naliatal tittlijilet. A gailutal conveyed by the tenon 101401 ha andtile duettralilluunitifee (paragraph indleritti Id). 4:111161010.41, if these 11:431141 specific used.44140114vsolequale 14440.1.to de/Wribe 1114. 1110 lielt41441 111000 404.1rlity Ol int 4011 Oil 1141i111111.lisu 111011110 11 Is ields% ala is bird's alta Or a tralealiteraliona.Wallis, tumidly deja. 1114164: $el5 eaaat ado tall Inticriptions. iiiinkings. Minks, thestell to the HIFI is'. designe.r. see M4.0114/11 asl transcriptions. Iremslatioess, jor inscriptions III 'sslima. or itthoughtliit. is it desirableMini :011Wof nu toa4110110011)141$041:41 waitint:lotto and ell cataloged die clank%fel aseel NtheetieVerid 14w:eh-idly her 411( 'tort* Nome artifacts he.g.. Oita 1C10141. Fees control pesr)ksem ttttt ober of separate objects as hid set. as elhilinct ohjecla king dedication,maker of the inscribed object iitcholingtitle, awl Ill. Decorative motif. Tbe mime impressionbut or notVaal limitedttttt 1111Er. to signatureonly sales recogoized. typical ttt 4 t elate, WO, lit 414190.1143:asailthat Ise einike indivielually up10 lieuIlt0V110 mingledescrilust plaCts:lea, catalog record.Ilit: recording of 1144444441 dusit:11101100. It LI Ind iklaSthlt: ill e.vessi though the objecla muy a 141111441 litit cal dataevery physical 111- totedwaeseiesthis tee theta decorate (Of datesthee lieu 'Mould object. contain As tilt+ with which the oleject an onlywith aiwcilielike sortable subject* and (paragraph bide:sable decorated. key be iltreasgfeleIAeat:schwa, attn.* sal however. oVery 1iltd to !Uniteel object. general Any ruotarka aigniticant remisrkaI physical about charm:twit:tics (thesau Hot covereel he tel 1111 recorded in this general category. Caro to brief and significant paragraphs 451 ChatibilICISiofexperts' a reedier way preciseof using physical as stogie'not usaig ttttt cal of is type mune 44 the Objeil. Twe)1411:14.141 (teat:d'Alene andword genetic or phrase or pleylogenetic to imply the 10 te 4114 4111031 Or artifact I Yogic,. composite 6 else Descssioioncuistements, ofand the nut ()Wert: to desplicate Content information recorded elsewhere. or Ilecorotion sciencesbiologicalotrelationship. descriptive SO specimens that It clueructerestica. furtheris it Shorthand sieteccsl55a is suiliciently means Salle The l.i,essscsiaeaa syateske of well eatable:Analeel a slit:cilia:WA io oftile abbreviating biological physical ebonite-- as lengthy claasifying aeries rharactedaticareline:4111010 wlse conical of an object With art ohjecht, illtotogrikplt14, 114044S. its liottrayal to us On the object y be: of ttt i t 101 import an10 c inapt. 01., Iie,eta physical content Somewhat 101111141 cfflicel'tlashWreath:es its 4:onside:Jed ismiecessury. aa readily into tat Ado mita% lug., in ai atilt:04%y eatablisleed lulu tttttt kie6 Us do their With inues-iiiiide objects the type 1, hot aft eea'tdaec5e genetically cisc not Iic(saracteristics) Urn lieu clasiessi of Leadata Tit required le. 'Eike lit lesaaaalillS1r1101414110 tumid by the Oa artifacts. the Stallie of being aeparaiele from other physical posesesster i.e his most ruccoli catalog to describe the t104: uses- relatedunless couture-parts the authority ha lotthe the62. Artifact typea 'type intakes biological&signal 1i/tent:ea. Mu has shown (see talleotrallls S11014141 not bemaul. used forilia artifacts precise authoritativ5. 511 I 1411theemail/ter I ass hits in alphabet boost computer sly:items ties 114:14 '11114:s may be lecoreled let any lateguage using not make 1/141ViSinit VAlttypeIf Mull designationtvarietyl type and and alkokildvariety the viiiirty Ilatnesappear are111 dal Li tttt mean sysiteen of clusailicatiosi an establishedhest, hierarchy followed by the abbreviation onlyaci else. lieu map. sortable call and inclexahleMi. key57. Specific words Language. stsbjectisk for the 'Ishe subject 1110110The specific 01 thesesbject language (a) class Maid in , portfolio. motion pie:teens, etc. Attallaas book, contain *Dunes- mutter of taxuries corteaponelingare recognized. to mid each level414.Sidepley l'ityl (tiiviachasasi. taultelivisiend. provision aaheeutal Ire made for data catego- ilk &hie leierarcley." MUSEUM CAI ALOG*10 WHAT 10 flECOAD 69 67.i8t 65 Class.Salida:a*. Severelass. laraclass. dittea.)sary or &likable kit Mite identified. (See Preliminery object chow. If to include the preliminary footnote 16 for techniques it ia considered to be object classification in eitherof recording neces- 72,71.741.69. Suborder. Order.Cohort. Superorder. Infraorder. areshould"Namingthe recordedgiven be the inprovided Tabledocumentation Collection* for this purpotai. and/or Filea"), aon separate each object (see (onetime% names are often given The acronyms for thist entry the following section, data category to 76.74. Family.Sulu:dowdy. Tribe.Sabi 1y. designationsmuseumWainatuffed munespecimens bird (paragrapha for or thesilmal, specimen 62 forInformal typological and either in addition to or example.through may be 61). recorded The common becatwehas not name been determined, or in place of the formal it may for e the 81.Hit 79.711.Subgenus.Specimi. Genus. Sulu rib. displaybe used labels). as an additional anemiaTwo89. Itivela Broad of informal close. classification isle suggested The name of a broad of identification (e.g.. to be for common maniac specimen Offunctional. artifact morpho- used on hi443111yries. tole I. eachIOW a14 aoii,IIy Li beet to8:1.tt2. provideAl InfinspecilicInfraspecific I he infraspecificonly two name.rank. additional level numerous tonna are used (at times ille011- catego- islogical aturalt:m(141g weather. or Muteriali." other to FunctionalSallie class authoritative of objects of which the class.classifications Any subdivisioa should Away* reference retch ea the Outline of the classification be made ac- of Cul- basis;thology) others employ (e.g., alintuit botany, the out:1 claire yei only Inothers Linnaeus' theselected clussificailonfit.g., levels Iiieiarchycoachology) in of specimens vary the categoriessome disciplinea that (e.g., orni- the hierarchy; on a regular are used identifyingdescribedupon tunny in or paragraph naming diffeient 89 TheDO. CO11111101i Specific informal names given to kiwis of characteristics.the object in the catalog. that ta found to be a /littoral science specimens are logicalConsider, way of limpet for example. ly based Illcan$II HS Ile IIIWeill feeinii did1. aqwtisuc,ln This variahility itill Colk:iiSiencytin IIIWetii posed levelno iii major Iliual'1)., which pattern problemsha example,the Of specimen fecOrtilligif there should be recorded (or all specimens, including sificationcontinuasetssott.TAILEDthe etymology ofand paragraphs naming of names FLYCATCHER. of objects on 89 and 941 suchshould us be MOCKINGBIRD,las a genewlized historical the basis of most obvious, ot With mito-ntatie objects, considered us tbe clas- civrituti). or museum, for jowl the iecoiiledSN'Siciiifamilythose using finofis whichthein ulour lowest taxonomy genus data identifiable categories mid of apecitta inatt-ntudeThe taxonomicWee Urd authority Mao footnote level. for a 16).typo designation, either in the limittean if on aatae specimeita can usually be theexample,intended following functionone twelve ittight Of start Wit. 2. Householdt. l'etsestal sufuraishiogs (Kuria broad functional classing by classifying every and equipment object within one of inetiiII IIll :a:mil:oil bibliographic fashion Cot111,1111 the apprOlifilitu IA %V II discipline+, who MI111444' OWiii1011. type name The iw 1.4X011 of which he subject sped- of the intlividualisk iecorded unfixed activities other Bout 4 !loadings and equipment of crafts, trades, buililiog hardware household) and professions III'where the toxin* is first identified.titi.tlflypl! name Ii, ibis specimeit. Vulif iniiiiication. Year ofThe publication mane of thefor personthe docuateitt who assigned the taxon "1.ti.6. Recreational MtReligious objects objecta objects MilitaryInthistrial objects objecls ire., the liffifialti of hllaslil pfOillifiliiii, 166

Appendix N Proposed Classifying and Cataloguing Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction 167

Outline of data fields and divisions 169

Data fields and instructions 171

Data field sample word lists 196

Recommended informational sources 222

Summary of procedures 223 Instructions for:

Ledger page 225

Donated objects 227

Cataloguing worksheet 230

Label 231

Additional data files 232

Catalogue card files 233

Photographing object 238

Noting cleaning and repairs 238

Storage of object 239

System rules 240 167

CIASSIFYING AND CATALOGUING MANUAL

INTRODUCTION

Read through the entire system and all the instructions before trying to catalogue the first item.A good understanding of the information to be recorded in each field will make the task easier, and insure consistency and accuracy.Consistency is vital to the success of the system; therefore it is important to use appropriate word lists and rules for entry and system use. Use a pen when completing the Cataloguing Worksheet. Use a pencil on the registration card for recording storage location so that changes can be easily made if storage facilities are rearranged. Data fields circled on the Cataloguing Worksheet and starred (*) in the Manual which follows are fields which contain retrievable information. These fields have word lists which you must use to describe the object in order to provide consistency of vocabulary necessary for cross-indexing and for computerization in the future. Data fields which have been subdivided maintain the same field number as the original data field.Small letter designations are used to designate the subdivided parts.Instructions for recording information in each data field are given following the data field number and title. The data field number with a period followed by another number is used to indicate different parts or steps in the Instructions. For example, 25a and 25b are subdivided parts of the original data 168 field 25.25a .1 and 25a.2 indicate specific instructions for recording information for data field 25a. In this Manual you will find all the information you need to begin cataloguing. Additional sources will be needed for some areas and are indicated in the appropriate data field section. The purpose of cataloguing is to describe each item in the collection so it can be located. Many of the data fields will not be filled in until additional time has been spent searching references; therefore you should begin by filling in the data fields you can easily do first, and then work on obtaining further information and documentation by researching the Item in greater depth. 169

OUTLINE OF DATA FIELDS AND DIVISIONS

A. Object identification, location, and other bookkeeping data Record number Recording institution Other record numbers Related record numbers for artifacts and slides Photograph negative numbers Additional data 7.Storage location Present value Documented value and source Original purchase price

B. History of the object as a specimen, artifact, or record Collector Date collected Recorder Date recorded Method of acquisition Date of acquisition Donor name Donor address 20. References C.Origins of the object: cultural and temporal Manufacturer, printer Artist, photographer, designer 25a. Date of origin and use Cultural period Developmental stage, style Specific culture D.Origins of the object: spatial (political provenance)

*34a.Continent *34b. Country *34e. Sub area, e.g.,state, province, island group, region Country, island City, town 34h. Place of purchase 170 E.Description of the object: physical characteristics Condition Basic material Technique: fabric of basic object Technique: structural design Technique: applied design, embellishments, decoration, appendages Technique: other Color number-application method-dye source-dye type Color number-application method-dye source-dye type Color number-application method-dye source-dye type Color number-application method-dye source-dye type 50e. Multi-colored 5 la .Form, shape 5lb. Garment silhouette 52. Dimensions Features: costume parts Features: garment construction 53c. Features: embellishments, decorations, appendages 54. Number of parts 55a. General description, picture Age Sex Special use Special person F.Description of the object: content or decoration Title Documentation 57. language 60. Inscriptions, markings *61a. Motif name-method of application-motif type *6 lb. Motif name-method of application-motif type *61c, Motif name-method of application-motif type Motif name-method of application-motif type Remaining motif names

G.Classification of the object: typological and functional Preliminary object class Broad informal class Specific informal class *91. Object name *retrievable data field 171

DATA FIELDS AND INSTRUCTIONS

OBJECT IDENTIFICATION, LOCATION AND OTHER BOOKKEEPING DATA

1. Record Number. An accession number is assigned to each object upon receipt by the CTRA department, and the accession number is called the record number. Textiles, Costumes, Slides 1.1The accession number for objects consists of three parts. First is the full year of receipt of the object by CTRA; second is the number of the acquisition within the year; and third is the number of the item within the given acquisition. A colon is used to separate the three areas of the accession number, e.g., 1979:23:3 is the accession number for an object received by CTRA in 1979, the 23rd acquisition, and the third item in that acquisition. 1.2The accession number for objects already present in the collection is determined from the information recorded on the file cards and in the record ledger to identify the year of receipt, acquisition number, and item within the acquisition.If the information is not available, the object is assigned an arbit-ary accession number which will not leave spaces nor duplicate other accession numbers. Objects with known date of receipt but no 172

donor name will be grouped by tens within the year acquired and given the same acquisition number with different item numbers. Objects with known donor name but no date will be grouped by donor name and each name grouping will be treated as an acquisition using a fictitious date such as 9999.

1.3A permanent registration-accession ledger book is kept to provide a place for the initial recording of accession numbers and to provide a record of accession numbers used in the collection. Information recorded in the ledger book includes accession number, item name, donor, and storage location.

2.Recording Institution Costume, Textile, Slide 2.1OSU/CTRA is the acronym used to identify objects and slides recorded by the CTRA department of Oregon State University.This information has been pre-recorded on the Catalogue Worksheet. 3a. Other Record Numbers Costume, Textile, Slide

3a .1Record any former catalogue numbers as a means of positive identification, e.g., 800.ACC 3 is the former catalogue number of the third accessory from the 1880 173

time period from the historic costume sub-division of the collection. 3b. Related Record Numbers Costume, Textile

3b.1Record numbers for items accessioned separately but forming a unitensemble, or, e.g. ,bridal gown, veil, and accessories.

Slide 3b.2 Record accession numbers for slide duplicates as identified after the catalogue file is established. Record the term "duplicate" on the Catalogue Worksheet in data field 3b and list the accession numbers and storage location of the duplicate slides. Costume, Textile, Slide 3b.3 When a slide is taken of an artifact in the collection, record the artifact number on the slide cataloguing sheet, and the slide number on the artifact cataloguing sheet. 4.Photograph Negative Numbers Costume, Textile (for slide write DNA, see rule 6, page 241).

4.1Use the artifact accession number preceded by a small letter "n" to designate the photograph negative.

S.Additional Data. Record the name of any files containing 174 additional information about the object, e.g.,Documentation File, History of Ownership File. Costume. Textile (for slide write DNA, see rule 6, page 241 ) 5.1Documentation File.The Documentation File folder contains all articles, newspaper clippings, pictures, study papers pertaining to a given object which support historic evidence, establish credibility of the item, and add educational value to the collection. A separate file folder is kept for each object in the collection containing all documentation information.The folder is labeled with the accession number and filed numerically. No folder is prepared if no material is available to file. 5.2History of Ownership File. All remarks about the known or conjectural sequence of ownership, changes of location, dates and circumstances of transfer are kept in separate file folders for each object in the collection. The folder is labeled with donor name and the folders.are riled alphabetically by donor name. On the outside of each folder, write the object number and storage location of all items donated by that person. The papers and information placed inside the file folder should be labeled with the appropriate record number and kept in numerical

order. 173

7.Storage Location

Costume, Textile. Slide 7.1Record the appropriate storage location identifying the room number, closet, cabinet, drawer where the object is stored. Record the location in pencil on the file card to facilitate making changes when objects are stored in new locations.Separate the room number designation from closet, cabinet, and drawer number with a dash. Keep identifications in listed order, e.g., 224 B-5 designates room 224, cabinet B, drawer 5. Textile 7.2Identify storage of textile by room number-cabinet- drawer.

Costume 7.3Identify storage of costume by room number-closet- drawer. Slide 7.4Identify slide storage location by alphabetical letter representing the faculty room number as follows:

A = room 23 0 C = room 220

B = room 326 D = room 226 8a. Present Value. Updated inflation value of each item is recorded in this data field. Record the current date and value. 176

Costume, Textile (for slide write DNA, see rule 6, page 241).

8a .1Record the year by using four digits included in parentheses followed by whole dollars without the dollar sign, e.g., (1979)75. 8a.2 For an estimated price use "e" after the dollar value, e.g., (1979)25e designates an estimated price of $25.00 established in 1979. 8b. Documented Value and Source. The most current date and known value are recorded in this data field.Preceding valuations and dates are kept in the appraisal file (see page 234) along with references to the source of documentation. 8b.1 Record the date and dollar value using the four digits for the year included in parentheses, followed by whole dollars without the dollar sign, e.g., (1979)52. 8b.2 For estimated price use "e" after the dollar value, e.g., (1979)52e designated the estimated price of $52.00 established in 1979. 8b.3 Record the source of documentation using bibliographic citation, or name and address of the appraisal company (see rule 10, page 242). 8b.4 Record the name of person establishing the value, last name first. 8b.5 Separate the above items of information with a dash and 177

record the information in given order: value-source- person's name. 8c. Original Purchase Price

Costume, Textile (for slide write DNA, see rule 6, page 241). 8c.1 Record the purchase price and the date of purchase using four digits for the year enclosed in parentheses, and the whole dollar value without the dollar sign, e.g., (1979)35. 8c.2 For an estimate price, use "e" after the dollar value, e.g., (1979)35e.

,HISTORY OF THE QBJECT AS A SPECIMEN, ARTIFACT, OR RECORD

. Collector. The name of the individual is recorded who recovered the object from natural surroundings, who took the photograph or slides, or requested a slide copy from reference sources. Example: a faculty member or person from the general public may be designated by CTRA to make certain purchases or take slides while visiting another country or traveling. Costume, Textile, Slide 9.1Record the name of the collector (see rule 9, page 242). 10. Date Collected

10.1Record the date object is collected or excavated using date entry rule (see rule 3, page 242).Use the date slide is taken, if known, otherwise leave the space blank. 17 8 Recorder. Record the name of the individual preparing the Cata- loguing Worksheet, who should know the source of any information appearing in the record. Costume, Textile, Slide

12.1Record the name of the person preparing the Catalogue Worksheet following name entry rule 9, page 242. Date Recorded. The date the Cataloguing Worksheet is completed by the recorder. Costume, Textile, Slide

13.1Enter the date recorded following date entry rule 8,

page 242. Method of Acquisition Costume, Textile, Slide

14.1Use one of the following terms to designate the method of acquisition of an object by CTRA: Gift, Loan, Purchase, Copy. Date of Acquisition. The date an object was acquired by the present owner (CTRA for the State of Oregon). Costume, Textile, Slide

15.1Record the date following the date entry rule 8, page 242. 15.2 For items already in the collections, use the date of acquisition listed in the old records, or leave blank. 179 Donor Name Costume, Textile, Slide

16a.1 Record the name of the individual donating an object to CTRA following the name entry rule 9, page 242. 16a .2 Keep the name form consistent with previous record- ings on the name list established for use. The name list will be established by the recorder as items are accessioned. Donor names will be listed alphabetically on a sheet of paper and each new donor name added to the name list.

Donor Address Costume, Textile, Slide 16b.1 Record the complete address of the donor. The information is necessary if donors are to be contacted for additional information. References. The documentary sources referring to or illustrat- ing the object being catalogued. Costtune, Textile, Slide 20.1 Record the bibliographic citation using the rule for entry. See rule 10, page 242.

ORIGINS OF THE OBTECT: CULTURAL AND TEMPORAL, Manufacturer, Printer.The name of the firm or individual who manufactured the object on a production basis. 180 Costume, Textile (for slide write DNA, see rule 6, page 241).

21.1Record the name of the manufacturer or printer giving as complete information as possible including name of the firm and address.

22.Artist, Photographer, Designer. The name of the individual, workshop or school who is responsible for creating the object. Costume, Textile, Slide

22.1 Record the name of the creative individual or school to which the object is currently attributed, e.g., artist, maker, designer. 25a. Date of Origin and Use

Costume. TextileSlide 25a.1 Record the date using four digits for the year.For B.C. dates record the date preceded by a minus sign (-), e.g., -327 which represents 327 B.C. 25a.2 Use a question mark (?) following a reasonable guess for the date, e.g., 1814 (?). 25a.3 Record the full year for a range of dates, e.g., 1930-

1940. 25b.4 Give modern reproductionsthe modern date, not the date of the original style. 181

25b.Bibliographic Citation for Verified Dates Costume, Textile, Slide

25b. 1Record the bibliographic citation using rule 10,

page 242). Cultural Time Period."The name assigned to a particular time period during which cultural traits and assemblages remained stable within definable geographic or political areas" (Chen- hall, 1975, page 61). Costume, Textile, Slide

31.1Record the cultural time period using terms from the Cultural Time period sample term lists on page 196 for the appropriate region. Developmental Stage, Style

"The name assigned to a particular technological stage or style of construction, painting, decorating, etc.This is a formal or content area, primarily, rather than either a spatially or temporally limiting dimension. Styles may be repeated by different cultural groups at different times and places" (Chenhall, 1975, p. 62). Costumes, Textile, Slide

32.1Record the stage or style of the object using terms from the stage, style sample term list on page 199. Specific Culture. The name of the culture, group, tribe, ethnic group, folk or national culture who made or used the object. 182

33.1 Use The Times Atlas of World History as a resource for identifying cultural area terms. 33.2 If uncertain of the cultural area, follow a reasonable guess with a question mark (?). 33.3 If an object comes from more than one culture, record both cultures using a dash to separate the cultures. 33.4As alternate if The Times Atlas is not available, use George Murdock's Outline of_ World Cultures to identify the cultural area using the underlined terms. Codes can be recorded in parentheses following the cultural area term. 33.5 Update Murdock's Outline of World Cultures as needed entering the name change in appropriate location to maintain consistent use of terms. Enclose the old name in parentheses when the new name is recorded in Murdock and on the catalogue file card. 33.6 Use the most precise term possible. Check Murdock (1963) for definition of terms.

ORIGINS OF THE OBJECT: SPATIAL

Political Provenance 34.Place of Discovery. The name of the place from which the object came or where the object was discovered or created. 183

Costume, Textile, Slice

Continent

Country

Sub area, e.g., state, province, island group, region. Region can be the sub-area of continent or country. County, Island City, Town 34.1 Use a world atlas to provide consistent terms for recording provenance in categories 34a-34e.

Costume, Textile

34h.Place of purchase

34h.1Record the place of purchase if it is different from the place of creation or discovery.

DESCRIPTION OF THE OBJECT: PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

46. Coneition. Words used to record condition of specimens will vary from one class of objects to another. Each curator should develop a brief expression of condition to be used consistently. Costume. Textile (for slide write DNA, see rule 6, page 241). 46.1 Record one of the following terms to describe the condition of the object being catalogued: excellent, good, fair, poor. 184

47.Basic Material. The name of any material used for construction of the base object. Costume, Textile, Slide 47.1 Use terms on the sample term lists on page 208 to record basic materials. 47.2 When more than one material is used for the basic structure, separate the words with a dash. 47.3 Materials used for embellishments, decorations, or appendages are not included in this data field, see field 53c, page 189. 48a. Technique: Fabric of the basic object Costume, Textile, Slides

48a .1For established and defined terminology use The Pd.- mary Structure of Fabrics by Irene Emery to identify the information to be recorded in data field 48a. Identify fiber contentyarn structure, fabric construction method--fabric finish--fabric name--keeping information in given order and separate with a dash. 48a .2If The Primary Structure of Fabrics is not available use the following alternate. Record the information in order and separate the information with a dash. Use terms from the sample term lists on pages 205 185

to identify fiber contentyarn structure--fabric construction methodfinishfabric name. Technique: Structural Design Costume, Textile, Slide

48b.1Identify the structural design techniques using terms from Ricciardelli Modification Technique Dictionary

(MTD).

48b.2 Add terms to MTD following rule 4, page 240. Technique: Applied Design, Embellishments, Decorations, Appendages

Costume, Textile, Slide

Record terms from sample lists on page 207 to identify the techniques used for the following: 1-applique, 2-beads, 3-braid, 4-buttons, 5-embroidery, 6-lace, 7-ruffles. 48c.1Record the technique area number given above and the term to describe the technique used on the object. Separate the number and the technique with a dash, e.g., 1-cross stitch. 48c.2 Refer to Vogue Sewing Book for term descriptions and definitions. Technique: Other Costume, Textile, Slide

48d.1Record the techniques used to create the object 186

which do not relate to fabric (48a), design (48b) or applied design (48c), e.g., hand-sewn garment. 48d is the data field for a technique which does not fit into the other subdivisions.

50. Color.List the color numbers in order of predominance and use the category divisions listed below to record the information about the four predominant colors.More than four colors will be called "multi-colored" and the term "multi-colored" will be recorded in 50e. Costume, Textile, Slide Color number-application method-dye source-dye type

Color number-application method-dye source-dye type

Color number-a pplication method-dye source-dye type

Color number-application method-dye source-dye type Multi-colored.

50.1 Record the color numbers from Munsell Book of Color to identify the hue number, hue symbol, value and chroma. Separate each piece of information with a dash, e.g., 12.5 - 2.5YR-7/8. The color number will not be retrievable. 50.2Identify black, grey, or white by value and chroma only. 187 50.3 Use terms from sample lists on page 208 to identify the application method and the dye type and source. 50.4 When an object has fewer than four colors, draw a line through the recording space of the unused sub- fields to distinguish from unidentified information, e.g. , an object has two colors to be identified which are recorded in 50a, and 50b. A line is to be drawn through the recording space for fields 50c, 50d, and 50e. 50.5 When an object has more than four colors, record the predominant four in data fields 50a-50d and write

11m u 1 ti -c o ore d " in data field 50e.

51a.Form, Shape

Costume, Textile, Slide

51a .1 Record the appropriate terms from the sample term lists on page 209 to describe the two-dimensional objects. *51b. Garment Silhouette Costume, Slide of Costume (for Textile write DNA, see rule 6,

Page 241).

51b.1 Use The Fashion Dictionary by Mary Brooks Picken for silhouette description and term definitions.

51b.2If The Fashion Dictionary is not available use the 188

following alternate.Use terms from the sample term list on page 209 to identify the appropriate garment silhouette. 52.Dimensions. This is a descriptive category used to indicate the physical size of the artifacts. Costumq, Textile (for Slide write DNA, see rule 6, page 241). 52.1 Record the measuremenst of the textile in centimeters and designate the location of each measurement, e.g., 32 cm long, 15 cm wide. When the garment or accessory size is unknown record the width and length of the object noting location of the measurements. 52.2 If the garment or accessory size is known, record the information stating "size *538. Garment features - Costume parts. Record information used to describe the parts of a costume. Costume, Slide of Costume (for Textile write DNA, see rule 6,

page 241).

53a .1Record the corresponding costume feature code number with the proper term from the sample term lists on page 210 to describe the following features which may be present on the costume: 1-bodice, 2-collar, 3-cuff, 4-neckline, 5-pocket, 6-skirt, 7-sleeve, 8-shoulder, 9-waistline, e.g., 2-cape designates 189

a garment with a cape collar. 53a.2 Add other features as needed using consecutive numbers beginning with ten. *53b. Garment features - Garment construction Costume. Slide of Costume (for Textile write DNA, see rule 6,

page 241).

53b.1Use terms from sample term lists on page 212 to record information describing the construction features of the garment using the corresponding construction feature code number with the proper term as follows: 1-closing, 2-darts, 3-edge finishes, 4-gathers1 5-hem/finishes, 6-pleats, 7-seams/seam finishes, 8-tucks, e.g., 1-buttoned designates a buttoned closing on the garment. 53b.2 Use Vogue Sewing Book for definitions of terms used to identify garment construction. 53b.3 Add other parts as needed using consecutive numbers beginning with nine. 53c. Garment features - Embellishments, Decorations, Appendages Costume, Textile, Slide

53c.1Identify the material used for each attached part. Use the corresponding part number to identify the

following:1-applique, 2-beads, 3-braid, 4-buttons, 190

5-embroidery, 6-lace, 7-ruffles. 53c.2Record a reasonable guess followed with a question mark (?). 53c.3Use the Vogue Sewing Book as a reference source

for term descriptions.

54. Number of Parts Costume, Textile (for Slide write DNA, see rule 6, page 241)

54.1 Record the number of items catalogued together with the same accession number such as shoes, earrings, gloves, dress with jacket and belt. 55a. General Description. Record any significant remarks about additional physical characteristics. Avoid duplicating information recorded elsewhere. Costume, Textile, Slide

55a.1Record any additional descriptive information about the item being catalogued to assist in positive identification of the object and to provide the user with additional information which may be relevant to classroom, display or study use of the object. *55b. Age

Costume, Textile, Slide

55b.1Designate the age of the probable user/wearer by recording one of the following terms as defined 191

by the representative culture: infant, child, adult,

unknown.

§als. Costume, Textile, Slide 55c.1Designate the sex of the user by recording one of the following terms: female, male, unknown. Special Use

Costume, Textile, Slide

55d.1Identify the special ceremonial use of the costume or textile with terms from the appropriate sample term list on page 213. Special Person Costume, Textile, Slide

55e.1Identify and record the special person who uses the object being catalogued. Use terms from the word

list on page 213 .

DESCRIPTION OF THE OBJECT: CONTENT OR DECORATION

56a. 1111011Title as used by the creator to describe the object.

56a .1Record the title as given by the creator to identify the object, e.g., "The Monastic" garment and "The Thousand Babies" tapestry. 192

5610. Documentation of Title Costume, Textile, Slide

56b.1Use the bibliographic citation entry rule for recording the documentary title source. See rule 10 on page 242.

57. Language Costume, Textile, Slide

57.1 Record the name of any language, other than English, used in or on the item being catalogued. Inscriptions, Markings Costume, Textile, Slide "Marks, transcriptions, tra ns la tions, transliterations, des - criptions ,or mention of major inscriptions, or marks usually those attributed to the artist, designer, artisan, or maker of the object, including, but not limited to signature, date, edition, inscribed title, and impression or cast number" (Chenahll, 1975, p. 67). 60.1Also record trademark, label, and watermark, as appropriate to the object being catalogued. Decorative Motif.Four predominant motifs are recorded in fields 61a-61d. Predominance is judged by size or frequency of repeat. Record the most predominant motif in area 61a, the second most predominant in 61b, until the four major motifs have been identified, along with the method of application and motif type.In case no motif is predominant, 193

arbitrarily record one motif in each field with the method of application and motif type, e.g., circle-printed-geometric. Motif name-method of application-motif type

Motif name-method of application-motif type

Motif name-method of application-motif type List remaining motif names separated by a dash. Omit the method of application and type of motif.

61.1 Use terms from sample term lists on page 215 to identify the motif name, motif type, and method of application. Record as specific a term as possible.

61.2 If the object contains fewer than four motifs, draw a line through the recording spaces not used in order to indicate that no further information needs to be identified.

CIASSIFICATION OF THE OBJECT: TYPOLOGICAL AND FUNCTIONAL

88. Preliminary Object Class.Consult Chenhall (1975) for identifying additional preliminary object classes. Data field 88 is located on the front of the Catalogue Worksheet. Costume, Textile 88.1 Use the designator HART to identify artifacts. 194

Slide 88.2 Record the designator MAPE to identify slide or photograph of the artifact. Other 88.3 Record the designator BOOK to identify book or manuscript. Broad Informal Class. The name of the broad functional class of which the artifact is a member. Costume, Textile, Slide

89.1 For man-made items, record one of the eleven major categories in Chenhall's Nomenclature, pages 39-41. (See Appendix N, page 217 for sample). Specific Informal Class. Subdivisions of the classifications for area 89. Costume, Textile. Slide

90.1 Record one of the subdivisions as outlined in Nomenclature pages 39-41.(See Appendix N, page 218 for sample).

*91 Object Name. The specific name of the artifact. See Appendix

page 220 for sample of object names in Textile Working Tools & Equipment. Costume, Textile, Slide

91.1 Record appropriate terms from pages 54-285 in 195

Nomenc14ture to identify the object's name.

91.2 Data field 91 is located on the front of the Catalogue Worksheet.

91.3 Add terms as necessary to Nomenclature following the rules for entry described in Ncmenclatze on pages 16-17. 196

SAMPLE WORD LISTS

DATA FIELD 31

CULTURAL TIME PERIOD

Crete Egypt (continued)

Neolithic Age New Kingdom 1579-1085 BC Early Minoan 2800-2000 BC The Decline 1084-332 BC Middle Minoan 1999-1600 BC Ptolemaic Period 331-30 BC Late Minoan 1599-1200 BC Graceco-Roman Period 29 BC- 396 AD Greece Persia Minoan/Cretan period 2800-1200 BC Homeric period 1199-700 BC Prehistoric period to 2750 BC Archaic period 699-480 BC Archaic period including Ela- Transitional period 479-450BC mite and Median 2749- Great Age 449-323 BC 550 BC Hellenic period 510-336 BC Achaemenian period 549-330 Age of Pericles 480-400 BC BC Alexandrian period 337-323 BC Seleucid period 329-220 BC Hellenistic 322-320 BC Parthian period 219 BC-222AD Graeco-Roman period 146-27 BC Sasanian period 221 AD- 650 AD Mesopotamia Prehistoric Sumerian period Early Babylonian period 3000-1275 BCStone age up to 3000 BC Assyrian period 1270-606 BC Bronze age Late Babylonian period 625-538 BC Early 3000-2000 BC Middle 1999-1500 BC Egypt Late 1499-1200 BC Iron Age Predynastic period 5000-3700 BC Early 1199-1000 BC Ancient Kingdom 3699-3150 BC Middle 999-600 BC Old Kingdom 3149-2600 BC Late 599-300 BC First Intermediate Period 2599- 2300 BC Byzantine Empire Middle Kingdom 2299-1926 BC Second Intermediate Period 1927- Constantine the Great 323 BC- 1580 BC 227 AD 197

Byzantine Empire (continued) India (continued) Theodosius the Great 379-395 AD Gupta 320-600 AD Justinian the Great-Age of Medieval 600-1200 AD Justinian 396-527 Iconoclast period 726-843 Japan Second Golden age 844-1204 Period of Latin domination 1205-1261 Suiko 552-645 AD Palaeologue age 1262-1453 Hakuho (early Nara) 646-710 Tempyo (late Nara) 711-794 Chinese Jogan (Konin) 795-894 Fujiwara (late Heian) 895.- Prehistoric to 1766 BC 1185 Shang or Yin 1765-1121 BC Kamakura 1186-1373 Chou 1120-254 BC Ashikaga (Muromachi) 1374- Chturi-Chliu (Ch'in) 253-205 BC 1573 Han 204-24 BC Momoyama 1574-1603 Three Kingdoms 23 3C-220 AD Takugawa (Edo) 1604-1868 Six Dynasties 221-588 AD Meiji or present 1869- Sui 589-617 T'ang 618-906 Korea Five Dynasties 907-959 Sung 960-1279 Three kingdoms 37 BC-688 AD Yuan 1280-1385 Kogurya dynasty 37 BC- Ming 1386-1644 668 AD Ch'ing 1645-1911 Paekche dynasty 18 BC- Republic 1912- 663 AD Old Silla Dynasty 57 BC- Sicily 668 AD Unified Silla (Shiragi) 689- Part of Byzantine Empire 554-827 AD 935 AD Mohammedan Rule 828-1060 AD Koryo Dynasty (Korai) 918- Norman Rule 1061 -1266 AD 1392 Yi Dynasty (Ri) 1393 -1910 India Italy Indo-Sumerian 3000-2000 BC Maurya 325-185 BC Ancient Sunga 184 BC-80 BC Classical Hushan 50 BC-320 AD Medieval-Middle Ages 476- Gandhara 250-BC-600 AD 1453 AD Andhra Gothic 10-15th Century Early 200 BC-150 AD Medieval 14th Century Late 149 BC-300 AD Crusades 15th Century 198

Ita ly (continued) France (continued)

Renaissance - "Pearl Age" Louis XI, Charles VIII, Louis Early 1420-1499 XII 1461-1514 High 1500-1559 Francis I 1515-1545 Baroque 1560-1650 Henri II 1546-1558 Francis II 1559-1560 England Charles a 1561-1574 Henry 111 1575-1588 Britons 55 BC Henry IV, Louis MI 1589-1642 Saxon 469-1055 AD Renaissance Danes 1056-1065 AD Louis 'v'XI 1643-1714 Normans 1066-1154 AD Regency 1715-1722 Plantagenets 1155-1216 Louis XV 1723-1774 Early Middle Ages 1217-1398 Louis XVI 1775-1788 House of Lancaster 1399-1416 French Republic 1789-1804 House of York 1417-1485 Directory 1795-1799 Tudor 1486-1603 Consulate 1799-1804 Stuart 1604-1713 First Empire (Napolean I) Georgian 1714-1900 1805-1814 Saxe-Coburg 1901-1909 Louis XVIII, Charles V 1815- 1830 Fr-a nce Restoration 1814-1848 Louis Philippi 1831-1848 Moyen Age 500 BC to 1495 AD Romantic period 1830-1848 Gallic period 500-99 BC Second Republic 1849-1851 Gallo-Roman 50 BC-428 AD Second Empire (Napolean III) Merovingian 429-751 AD 1852-1874 Carlovingian 752-987 AD Third Republic 1875-1879; Capetian Dynasty 988-1328 1880-1890; 1890-1900 Crusades 1329-1344 Twentieth Century John and Charles V 1350-1379 Charles VI and VII 1380-1460

Sources for Cultural Time Periods: Bradley, Carolyn G. Western World Costume: An Outline of History. New York: Appleton-Century-Crofts, Inc., 1954. Evans, Mary. Costume Throughout the Ages. New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1950. Hoey, Cashel and John Lillie.History of Fashion in France. New York: Scribner and Welford, 1882. Petzel, Florence. Class notes for World Textiles, CT 461. Oregon State University, 1975. 199

DATE FIELD 32

DEVELOPMENTAL STAGE/STYLE

Abstract Impressionism Academic Mannerism Action Metaphysical Antebellum Habis Art Nouveau Neo-impressionism Ashcan Neo-pla sticism Babylonian Neo-romanticism Barbizon Orphism Der blaue reiter Pointillism Die brucke Pre-Columbia n Constructivism Pre-ra phaelis m Coptic Primitive Cosmati Ra yonism Cubism Rea lism Daclism Romanticism Decadent Social realism de Stijil Stylized Egyptian Supermatism Edvvardia n Surrealism Espressionism Symbolism Fauvism Tenebrosi Folk Verticism French revival Traditional Grand ma nne Hellenistic Historic Cost,limes: 1790-1799 - Directoire 1800-1814 - First Empire 1815-1829 - Restoration 1830-1949 - Louis Philippe 1850-1869 - Second Empire 1870 -1889 - Victorian 1890-1899 - Gay Nineties 1900 -19 13 - New Century 1914-1918 - World War I 1919-1929 - Flapper Era 1930-1939 - Depression 1940-1946 - World War II 1947 -19 53 - New Look 1954-1960 - Classic Era 200

DATA FIELD 33

SPECIFIC CULTURE

W - WORLD F AFRICA

A ASIA A - West Africa A - Korea B - Portuguese Guinea Japan C - Sierra Leone Ryukyus D - Liberia Formosa E - Ghana Greater China F - Nigeria China - Fernando Po Manchuria H - Cameroun Mongolia I - Former French Equa- Sinkiang torial Africa Tibet J - Nilotic Sudan - Himalayan States - Uganda - Southeast Asia - Kenya M - Indochina M - Zanzibar - Malaya - Tanganyika - Thailand - Congo P - Burma P - Angola Q - Greater India - Northern Rhodesia R - Assam R Nyasa land S - East Pakistan S - Southern Rhodesia T - Pakistan T - Mozambique Afghanistan U - Swaziland - Jammu and Kashmir - Bechuanaland W - India W - Basutoland X - Ceylon X - South Africa Y - Minor Asiatic Colonies Y - Madagascar Z - Asiatic Islands Z - African Islands

EUROPE E EUROPE continued A - Poland Sweden B - Czechoslovakia 0 - Finland C - Hungary P - Norway - Rumania Q - Iceland Bulgaria R - Ireland F - Yugoslavia S - Great Britain - Albania T - Netherlands - Greece U - Luxembourg I - Italy - Belgium I - Switzerland W France - Austria X - Spain - Germany Y - Portugal M - Denmark Z - European Is lands 20 1

M MIDDLE EAST 0 OCEANIA A - Iran A - Philippines B - Turkey B - Indonesia C - Cyprus C - Borneo - Syria D - Sumatra E - Lebanon E - Java F - Israel F - Lasser Sundas G - Jordan - Celebes - Iraq - Moluccas I - Kuwait I - Australia J - Saudi Arabia J - New Guinea - Oman - Melanesia L - Yemen - Massim M - Aden M - Bismarck Archipelago - Eritrea - Solomon Islands - Somaliland - New Hebrides P - Ethiopia P - New Caledonia Q - Arab Sudan - Fiji R - Egypt R - Micronesia S - Sahara and Sudan S - Polynesia T - Libya T - Polynesian Outliers U - Tunisia U Western Polynesia -Algeria - American Polynesia W - Morocco W - British Polynesia X - Spanish Morocco X - French Polynesia Y - Rio do Oro Y - Easter Island Z - Middle East Islands Z - New Zealand

N NORTH AMERICA N NORTH AMERICA (cont.) A - Alaska - Southeastern States - Greenland 0 - South Central States C - Canada P - East Central States - Northern Canada - West Central States E - British Columbia R - Northwestern States F - Prairie Provinces S - California - Ontario T - Southwestern States - Quebec - Mexico I - Newfoundland - Yucatan J - Maritime Provinces W - Guatemala - United States X - British Honduras L - New England Y - Middle America M - Middle Atlantic States Z - North American Islands 202

R RUSSIA S SOUTH AMERICA A - European Russia A - Central America B - Baltic Countries 3 - Panama C - Belorussia C - Columbia - Ukraine - Equador - Moldavia E - Peru F - Great Russia F - Bolivia G - Finno-Ugria G - Chile - Caucasia - Patagonia I - Georgia I - Argentina J - Armenia J - Uruguay - Azerbaijan - Paraguay - Russian Central Asia - Brazil M - Turkmenistan M - South Brazil - Uzbekistan - East Brazil - Tadzhikstan - Northeast Brazil P - Kirgizstan P - Mato Grooso - Kazakhstan Q - Amazonia R - Siberia R - Guiana S - Altai Region S - Venezuela T - Central Siberia T - Lesser Antilles - Northern Siberia U - Puerto Rico - Yakutia - Hispaniola W - Russian Mongolia W - Bahamas X - Southeast Siberia X - Cuba Y - Northeast Siberia Y - Jamaica Z - Russian Islands Z - South American Islands

Source: Murdock, George P.Outline of World Cultures, 3d revised, New Haven: Human Relations Area Files, Inc., 1963. 203 Example breakdown of specific cultures given by George P. Murdock, pp 107-108 in Outlin of World Cultures.

California

NS 1.California MS 2.Historical California Prehistoric California California Indians NS 5.Achomawi Chimariko Chumash NS 8.Costano MS 9.Diegueno NS 10.Gabrielino NS 11Hupa Karok Kawaiisu Luisano Maidu Miwok Modoc Porno Salina Serrano Shasta Tubatulabal MS 23.Wailaki Wappo Western Mono Wintun MS 27.Wiyot Yana Yokuts MS 30.Yuki NS3 1.Yurok

Source: Murdock, George P. Outline of World Cultures, 3d. revised, New Haven: Human Relations Area Files, Inc., 1963. 204

DATA FIELD 47

BASIC MATERIALS

Mineral Vegetable Animal aluminum bamboo bone brass cardboard coral bronze coconut fur ceramic cotton gut china gourd hair clay grass horn copper linen ivory glass paper mache leather gold plant fiber mohair iron rubber mother-of-pearl meta l straw quill pewter wood rawhide plaster of Paris sheepskin porcelain silk pottery skin of shark silver sinew slate tooth steel tusk stone wool tin

Other acetate plastic polyester rayon wax 205

DATA FIELD 48a

TECHNIQUE: FABRIC OF BASIC OBJECT

FIBER CONTENT FABRIC FINISH YARN abaca linen beetling Twist: acetate meta llic --s pecify calendering AcrilanNO misti fulling 2 acrylic modacrylic mercerization alpaca mohair napping PLY a nide nylon tentering Single aramid nytril sizing Double asbestos olefin weighting Triple azIon OrlonLV flocking camel hair pima cashmere polyester FABRIC CONSTRUCTION METHOD coir ramie cotton 4:h rayon Non-woven: Knit: Cresla 141 rubber felting tubular Dynel saran films warp fiberglass silk foam raschel flax sisal fuse tricot fur --s pecifyspandex chemical weft glass styrene mechanical double grass linenteflon lace patterned guanaco triacetate ne ed le -f e it plain hemp urena net purl henequen vicuna rib haurizo vinyl Woven: decorative jute vinyon plain dobby kapok wool balanced jacquard kenof undetermined basket surface llama verel unbalanced figure twill s pot satin swivel leno lappet double PERFORMANCE FINISHES pile color fast fire resistant pre-shrunksoil release crease-resistant oil repellent sanforizedstain spot resistant durable press permanent pressshrinkage wash and wear controlled water repellent 206

FABRIC NAMES antique lace crash jaspe outing flannel antique satin crepe jersey oxford cloth antique taffeta crepe-back satinkasha panama cloth armure crepe de chine kersey peau de soie astrakhan cloth crepon khaki pekin bagherra cretonne lambsdown percale bainin crinoline lame persian lawn barathea damask lampas picot bark cloth da ma s sin lawn pique bark crepe denim levantine plated batiste diaper cloth linen plisse battenberg dimity lockram pongee beaver cloth drill loden poodle cloth bedforci cloth duck mackinaw cbthpoplin bega line duvetyn madras sack cloth blinche ecossias ma limo sailcloth blanket cloth eiderdown marquisette sateen bombazine epongs matelasse satin botany eta mine matte jersey seersucker boucle eyelash merino serge broadcloth eyelet embroiderymesh shantung brocade faille messaline sharkskin brocatelle feather cloth metallic clothsuede cloth burlap flet mila nese surah calico flake moire swiss cambric flannel monk's clothtaffeta canton crepe flannelette mousseline tapa cloth canvas foulard mull tartan challis french crepe muslin terry cloth chambray frieze na ins ook ticking chenile frise nankeen toile de jouy chiffon gabardine net uncut velvet china silk galatea ninon velour chincilla cloth gauze oatmeal clothvelvet ching gerogette oilcloth velveteen chintz gingham organdy voile claque gernadine organzine whipcord corduroy homes pun oriental crepezephyr covert hopsacking ottoman zibeline Source: Perry, Patricia, editor. Vogue Sewing Book. New York: Vogue Patterns, 1970. 207

DATA FIELD 48c

TECHNIQUE: APPLIED DESIGN

1-a pplique 5-embroidery 5-embroidery (cont.)

hand darning stitch Hollie-work machine draw nwork Irish point fagot ng Italian lace 2-beads feather stitch Macrameme gobeline stitch ma ltese bands hemstitch mat fringe herringbone stitch mignonette loops Hungarian work needlepoint sequins knot Normandy lace paillettes loop stitch openwork needlework pearl 3-braid patchwork point lace petit point princes se flat braid quilting purl prefolded ribbon work raised point rick rack Roman work regency point S outache rope stitch run work running stitch Spanish lace 4-buttons satin stitch spider work stem stitch tambour lace Chinese ball Sturnpwork tatting covered toile jeweled 6-lace treille tulle 5-embroidery application lace Venetian point baby lace Venetian rose point basket stitch bayeux lace Berlin wool work bedfordshire lace black work Brussels applique blanket stitch campagne Source: Perry, Patricia, chain stitch chantilly lace editor. Vogue Chinese embroidery crochet Sewing Book. couching darn New York: crewel stitch darned netting Vogue Patterns, crewel work drawn 1970. cross-stitch English point outwork Gold thread 208

DATA FIELD 50

COLOR

Application Method Dye Source/Type

batik Artificial starch resist acid wax resist basic bleaching dis persed block print direct hand painted mordant piece dyed oxidation printing ozaic direct pre-metallized discharge reactive resist soluble vat dye warp printing sulfer rubbing vat silk screen stencil Natural tie dye fruits yarn dyed berry persia n berries pomegra nate turnsa le insects cochinea I kermes lac plants Indigo saffron weld woad roots henna madder 209

DATA FIELD 51a

FORM (SHAPE) two-dimensional angular dross diamond rectilinear rectangle square triangle non-a ngular circular oval

DATA FIELD 51b

SILHOUETTE a-line midi baby or baby doll mini blouson princess bouffant sheath bubble shift or chemise bustle tent chemise tiered dirndle torso empire trapeze harem trumpet hour-glass twenties long-torso wasp-waist maxi

Source: Calasibetta, Charlotte.Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion. Edited by Ermine Stimson Globle and Lorraine Davis. New York: Fairchild Publishers, 1975. 210

DA M FIELD 53a

COSTUME PARTS

1- Bo. ice 2-Collars (cont.) 4-Necklines (cont.) basque piccadilly cowl drape cardigan plain band cowl corset poets crew jersey poke draped Wattea u rabat Dutch rabatine Florentine 2-Collars rebato halter Robespierre jewel band Roman off-shoulder bertha ruff square bib sailor turtle Buster Brown scarf cape Shakespeare V carnival shawl C heve sa i le standing band ckets chin stand-up choker surplice flap collaret/chollarette tuxedo half collet Van Dyke patch convertible whisk seam Dutch wing s lit Eton s ta nd falling band 3-Cuffs welt fan fa non bracelet 6-Skirts fra is e double funnel French baby galilla glove bell g la dst one mous queta ire circular johnny parament crinoline little girl ruff divided Louis XIII/fa Ding band single Empire Medici S leeve foot mantle moat f us ta ne Ila mousq ueta ire 4-Necklines golf Na polean harem notched/notched lapel bateau/boat hobble Peter Pan camisole hoop 211

6-Skirts (continued) 6-Skirts (continued) hula cubital kilci dolman kilt draped elbow morning glory elbow overskirt epaulet pannier foresleeve parasol free action peg-top gigot pinwheel half pullback hanging rainy daisy kimono riding leg-of-mutton saga ma ncheron serpentine melon slit mousqueta ire suspender overs le eve swing pagoda tie-back peasant tiered poke trouser pudding tunic puff two piece raglan wrap around set-in yoke shoulder puff Zephyrina juyson sleevelet zouave three-quarter trunk 7-Sleeves undersleeve virago angle winged/angel armlet bag balloon batwing bell bishop Term source:Calasibetta,Charlotte.Fairchild's bracelet Dictionary of Fashion. Edited by cape Ermina Stimson Globle and Lorraine cap Davis. New York: Fairchild Pub- cornet lishers, 1975. 212

DAM FIELD 53b

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

1-Closings 4-Gather/Shirr 6-Pleats/Plait 7-Seams/ (cont.) buckled gathered (cont.) Sea m/Fin knife (cont.) buttoned self-facing simulated chain shirred sunburst prick cinch umbrella round clip 5-Hems/Hem unpres sed saddle double-breasted Finishes Watteau self-bound fly front shirtmaker frog bias faced 7-Seams/Seam s lot galosh clip bound Finishes stra p grippers circular tailored hook and eye double stitched blanket stitch fell laced eased bound top stitched loop and button french catch stitched tucked single-breasted Hong Kong clean stitched welt snap horsehair braid corded zigzag tabbed lace double-lock tied lingerie double stitched/8-Tucks toggle ma pery top stitched Velcro rolled double stitched/blind wra p seam binding welt cluster shirt-cut edge elastic corded 2-Dzirts stitched-overcastflat fell CMS stitched-pinked flat back graduated dart-tuck tucked French nun double point turned under full/trade overhand single point invisible pin imitation cordedreleased 3-Edge Finished 6-Pleats/Plait lap shell or open-welt scalloped selvage accordian overcast/hand spaced box overcast/ 4-Gather/Shirr cartridge machine inverted pinked corded kick piped elasticized kilt plain Source: Perry, Patricia, editor. Vogue Sewing Book. New York: Vague Patterns, 1970. 213

DATA FIELD 55d

SPECIAL USE wedding christening graduation mourning ceremony - specify occupation -- specify military

DATA FIELD 55e

SPECIAL PERSON bride scholar widow monarch officer groom 214

DATA FIELD 61

METHOD OF APPLICATION OF DECORATIVE MOTIF a pplique block print embroidery printed hand ma chine stamp hand ma chine stencil structural woven yarn dyed 215

DATA FIELD 61

MOTIF TYPE AND NAME

Calligraphy - any recognizable ancient or modern alphabet Hieroglyphics Numerals Pictographs Print Script Linear - a design formed by the element line, e. g., stripe Combination Curved Straight Geometric - shapes with mechanical contours, subject to the rules of mathematics Chevron Polygon Circle Rectangle Cross Rhombus, rhomboid Diamond Scallop Fretwork Square Hexagon Star Octagon Swastika Oval Triangle Pentagon Non-objective - a non-geometrical shape with no implication of a natural form Animal form - any real or imaginary representation of an animal (nonhuman) or animal part Amphibian Bird Fish Insect Mammal Reptile Human form - any representation of a human being or part of a human, such as the eye, hand, or foot Adult Female Aged Infant Body part--eye, hand, foot, head Male Child Teen 216

Vegetable form - any real or imaginary plant form Flower - poppy Fruit - pomegranate Plant Tree Underwater (reef) Vegetable - artichoke Vine Artificial form - any man-made structure or artifact (buildings) Architecture Artifactstools, potter, weapons Bridges Transportation - cart, wagon Natural, nonliving Fire Logs Minerals, gems Rocks Shells Snow, rain Sun, moon Pictorial - an iconographic or story-telling scene Boating Farming Hunting Weaving Scenic - a scene not telling a story Cityscape Landscape Seascape

Used by permission: Hoskin, Sharla jean."The Development of a Classification System for Two-Dimensional Printed and Dyed Textile Motifs and Their Arrangement". Unpublished master's thesis. Michigan State University, 1975. 217

DATA FIELD 89

BROAD INFORMAL CIASS

Category 1:Structures

Category 2:Building Furnishings Category 3:Personal Artifacts Category 4: Tools and Equipment Category 5: Communication Artifacts Category 6: Transportation Artifacts Category 7: Art Objects Category 8: Recreational Artifacts Category 9:Societal Artifacts Category IO: Packages and Containers Category 11: Unclassifiable Artifacts

Reprinted by permission of The American Association for State & Local History, from Nomenclature for Museum Cataloguing, by Robert G. Chen.hall. Copyright() 1978 by Robert G. Chenhall. 218

DATA FIELD 90

SPECIFIC INFORMAL CLASS

Category 1:Structures Building Biological T & E Building Fragment Chemical T & E Site Feature Construction T & E Unclassified Structure Data Processing T & E Drafting T & E Category 2:Building Furnishings Electrical and Magnetic T & E Bedding Fishing & Trapping T & E Floor Covering Food Processing T & E Furniture Food Service T & E Household Accessory Forestry T & E Lighting Device Glass & Plastics T & E Plumbing Fixture Housekeeping T & E Temperature Control Device Lea therworking T & E Window or Door Covering Masonry T & E Mechnical & Psychological T & E Category 3:Personal Artifacts Merchandising T & E Adornment Metalworking T & E Clothing Meter°logical T & E Clothing, Footwear Mining T & E Clothing, Headwear Musical T & E Clothing, Outerwear Musical T & E, Brass Clothing, Underwear Musical T & E, Percussion Clothing Accessory Musical T & E, Stringed Personal Gear Musical T & E, Unclassified Personal Symbol Nuclear Physics T & E Toilet Article Optical T & E Painting T & E Category 4: Tools and Equipment Papermaking T & E Acoustical T & E Photographic T & E Agricultural T & E Power Production T & E Animal Husbandry T & E Printing T & E Armament T (St E Surveying & Navigational T & E Armament T & E, Firearm Textileworking T & Armament T & E, Edged Thermal T & E Armament T & E, Bludgeon Timekeeping T & E Armament T & E, Artillery Weights & Measures T & E Armament T & E, Body Armor Woodworking T & E Armament Accessory Unclassified T & E, General Astronomical T & E Unclassified T & E, Special 219

Category 5: Communication Artifacts Category 10:Packages and Advertising Medium Containers Documentary Artifact Product Package Sound Communication Equipment Unclassified Container Telecommunication Equipment Visual Communication Equipment Category 11:Unclassifiable Written Communication Equipment Artifacts Artifact Remnant Category 6: Transportation Artifacts Runction Unknown Aerospace Transportation Aerospace Transportation Equipment Aerospace Transportation Accessory Land Transportation LTE, Animal-Powered LTE, Human-Powered LTE, Motorized Land Transportation Accessory Rail Transportation Rail Transportation Equipment Rail Transportation Accessory Water Transportation Water Transportation Equipment Water Trans porta tion Accessory Category 7: Art Objects Commercial Decorative Art Original Art Category 8: Recreational Artifacts Game Public Entertainment Device Recreational Device Sports Equipment Toy Category 9: Societal Artifacts Behavioral Control Device Ceremonial Artifact Exchange Medium Governmental Artifact

Example Breakdown of Specific Informal Class Showing Item Names

Category 4: Tools & Equipment Textileworking T & E sat An artifact originally created to be used in the making of thread, yarn or cordage, or in the creation of objects from natural fibers or from cloth; includes basketmaking tools, sailmaking tools, weaving tools, needleworking implements, etc. AWL

FID *rt means related term BACICEILLING MACHINE Bag, Emery use CUSHION, EMERY Baller BASKET, SEWING BATTEN BATT-MAKING MACHINE BEAM ER BEATER, BASKETMAKER'S BEETLE BENCH, RIGGER'S BENCH, SAILMAKER'S BENCH-HOOK, RIGGER'S BLEACHING MACHINE BLENDER, FEEDER BLENDER, SANDWICH BOBBIN BODKIN FID BOLT, CLOTH z. TEXTILE FRAGMENT; SALES SAMPLE, CLOTH BONDING MACHINE, FOAM-FIAME BONDING MACHINE, WET-ADHESIVE BOWL, SCOURING BOX, PIN BOX, SEWING BRAIDER BREAKER, BALE BREAKER, FIAX BROCHE 221

BRUSHING MACHINE BULKING MACHINE BURLING MACHINE BURR REMOVER, CRUSHER BURR REMOVER, PICKER BUTTON BREAKER CALENDER

Note: may be further subdivided to indicate specific type, e . g . , CA LENDER , EMBOSSING;-, MOIRE

Reprinted by permission of The American Association for State (SE Local History, from Nomenclature for Museum Cataloguing, by Robert G. Chenhall.Copyright C) 1978 by Robert G. Chenhall, pp 212. 222

RECOMMENDED INFORMATIONAL SOURCES

Data Field

33 13arrdclough, Geoffrey, editor. The Times Atlas of World History. Hammond Incorporated. Maple- wood, New Jersey 07040.1978. 88,89 Chenhall, Robert G.Nomenclature for Museum Cata- 90,91 loguing: A System for Classifying Man-Made Objects. Tennessee: American Association for State and Local History.1978. 48 Emery, Irene. The Primary Structure of Fabrics, An Illustrated Classification.Washington, D.C.: The Textile Museum. 1966.

34 Espenshade, E. B., editor.Goode's World Atlas. Chicago: Rand McNally. Current edition.

61 Hoskin, Sharla Jean."The Development of a Classifi- cation System for Two-Dimensional Printed and Dyed Textile Motifs and Their Arrangement." Un- published master's thesis. Michigan State Univer- sity, 1975.

50a- Munsell Book of Color. : The Mun- 50d sell Color Co., Inc.1929.

33 Murdock, George P.Outline of World Cultures, 3d revised. New Haven: Human Relations Area Files, Inc.1961.

53a Perry, Patricia, editor. Vogue Sewing Book. New York: 53b Voge Patterns.1970.

5 lb Picken, Mary Brooks. The Fashion Dictionary. New York: Funk and Wagnalls Co. 1957. 48 Ricciardelli, Catherine."Modification Technique Dic- tionary," in A Guide to Inventorying Ethnological QojjasS= edited by Mary Jane Schneider, Museum of Anthropology, University of Missouri-Columbia, 1970.Unpublished manual. 223

SUMMARY OF PROCEDURES

Identify the record number and item name. Record the information on the ledger page and on the Cataloguing Worksheet in the appropriate data fields.(Instructions begin on page 171).

When objects are donated, have the donor fill out and return the Donor Release Form (page 228) and the Donor Information Record (page 229).Write a letter of acceptance and thanks for the items donated.(Instructions begin on page 227).

Complete the Cataloguing Worksheet with all available information.(Instructions begin on page 230).

Prepare and attach the label to the object.(Instructions begin on page 231).

Prepare and file the additional data files.(Instructions begin on page 232).

Prepare and file the catalogue cards.(Instructions begin on page 233).

Photograph the object, recording the film roll and picture number on the Cataloguing Worksheet.(Instructions begin on page 238).

8. Make note of cleaning and repairs which need to be done on the 224

object and see they are completed.(Instructions begin on page 238).

9.Put the object in the proper storage location.(Instructions begin on page 238). 225

INSTRUCTIONS FOR RECORD LEDGER

Use a spiral ring notebook for the Record Leger. Divide each page into four columns, labeling each column with one title in the following order: record number, item name, storage location, and donor name or method of acquisition.Write the record number assigned to each separately catalogued item, using one line across the ledger page. Follow the instructions on pages 171 -172 in the Manual for identifying the record number, and instructions on page

194for identifying the item name. After identifying and recording the record number and item name on the ledger page, record the same information on the Catalogue Worksheet in the appropriate data fields, number I for the record number and number 91 for the Item name. Identify the storage location as instructed on page 239 of the Manual, and record location on the ledger page and the Catalogue Worksheet. Record the donor name or method of acquisition in the fourth column of the ledger page. Use ink for recording all information on the ledger page. 226

Accession Item Storage Donor name or Method Number Name Location of Acquisition

1952:4:2 Textile frag. 332 B6 Purchase Mourning 1957:2:86 Crepe 236 B5 Purchase

Figure 2 Sample of Record Ledger With Information Recorded 227

RECOMMENDED INSTRUCTIONS FOR DONATED OBJECTS

Have the donor fill in and sign the Donor Release Form for each acquisition. See form on page 228.

Give the donor one Donor Information Record form for each item to be donated. The form is to be filled out and returned by the donor as soon as possible. See form on page 229.

After receipt of the Donor Release Form and the donated items, assign the record numbers following the instructions beginning on page 171. Record the appropriate record numbers on the Donor Re- lease Form next to each item listed.Upon receipt of the Donor Information Record, also record the appropriate record number for each item.

The Donor Information Form will be filed in the History of Owner- ship File under the appropriate record number. The Donor Release Form will be filed by donor name, and kept in a file folder at the beginning of the History of Ownership File.

Write a letter of thanks to the donor including the record number for each item donated. 228

DONOR RELEASE FORM

I hereby give to the Clothing, Textile, and Related Arts Depart- ment of Oregon State University the following items: List items

Donor Signed: Date: Received by: 229

DONOR INFORMATION RECORD

Donor name and address: History of the item: Include any information you know about the Item such as who owned and used the item, how and when the item was used. Anything you know about the item would be helpful to us since it will assist us in learning about your donation and using it effectively in our classes.

Object name: Purchase price: Date of Purchase: Manufacturer, printer: Artist, photographer, designer: Date of origin or use: Developmental stage or style: Place of origin: Continent

Country Thank you! 230

INSTRUCTIONS FOR CATALOGUING WORKSHEET

Fill in as much information as possible on the Cataloguing Worksheet, following the Manual instructions for each data field beginning on page 166.Information is obtained from the artifact, donor, materials accompanying the artifact, and recommended reference sources. Record the information on the Cataloguing Worksheet in ink. The Cataloguing Worksheets are filed by record number and will serve as the Registration-Accession File.See page 234 for full instructions for the Registration-Accession File. 231

INSTRUCTIONS FOR PREPARING THE LABEL

Costuml, Textile The record number, storage location, object name, and donor name (when applicable) is to be typed on the label and the label will be hand-sewn to the costume or textile with a catch stitch. Additional information will be kept in the appropriate file and located through the record number or donor name. A minimum of information recorded on the label will encourage greater use of the subject-index file to locate desired information and objects. Old labels are to be removed and the new labels sewn onto each costume and textile.

Slide Write the record number and storage location on the upper edge of the slide when the slide is in proper position for handview- ing. Write the record number above the storage location so the slide can be easily filed by the record number, and confusion about the numbers will be avoided. 232

ADDITIONAL DATA FILES

Documentation File

All the information outlined in data field 5.1 page 174 is to be kept in a standard manila folder, one folder for each record number. Write the object record number on the folder tab.If documentation information is available for an object, establish a folder to contain that information. Add new file folders as information becomes available for other objects.If information is not available, do not establish the documentation file. The Documentation File is arranged numerically by the record number.

History of Ownership File

All information in data field 5.2 page 174 plus the Donor Infor- mation form is to be kept in a standard manila folder. Record the donor name on the folder tab, using one folder for each donor name In the collection. On the outside of each folder record the object number and storage location of each item donated by that person. Record the appropriate object number on all items belonging to each object and place them inside the manila folder in numerical order. 233

CATALOGUE CARD FILES

Subject-Index File The Subject-Index File is a substitute for the computerized file.If computerization is feasible soon after cataloguing is completed, omit establishing the manually used Subject-Index file. The Subject-Index File consists of four-by-six inch cards of varying colors to indicate textiles, costumes, and slides (and later, household furnishings). Each file card contains the information identified for retrieval, plus the item name, storage location, accession number, and donor name. Duplicate copies are made of each card to be filed under the appropriate headings. No set number of duplicates for each card can be predetermined because of the differing amounts of information recorded on each item. Twenty- eight retrievable data fields have been established and depending on the information recorded, duplicate cards needed could range from two or three to twenty-eight; therefore the number of duplicate cards needed is determined by the recorder, and the number is placed on the top right-hand corner of the Cataloguing Worksheet in a circle. A space in the upper-left corner of the file card will be available for recording the proper Subject-Index term for filing purposes. The Subject-Index File contains cards for textiles, costumes, slides, and household furnishings. The File is 234 arranged alphabetically by the retrievable data fields, then by item name, then by accession number. Use the following color of card for each collection area: costume = blue, textile = pink, slides = green, and household furnishings = yellow. To further distinguish the slide content, use a small piece of colored tape to match the slide content area and place the tape over the top edge of the card, e.g., if the slide is of a costume, use a piece of blue tape over the top edge of the green file card.

Registration-Accession File The Registration-Accession File will consist of the Catalogu- ing Worksheets which will be kept in a ringed binder. The file is arranged numerically by the record number with dividers for each year to assist in rapid location of the desired page. Oneach divider tab will be recorded the year used in the record number. The record number will be recorded at the top edge of the Catalogu- ing Worksheet page in the right-hand corner for ease of filing and locating.

Appraisal File The existing catalogue file cards will be used for the CTRA Appraisal File. The new record number will be recorded on the back 235 side of the old catalogue card, along with the item name and storage location. The descriptive information presently recorded on the old catalogue cards will remain and will be on the reverse side of the card when the card is placed in the Appraisal File. The color photo is attached to the back of the card using rubber cement. Retaining the descriptive information will assist in identification of the object when assigning information to data fields 8a, 8b, and

8.Three columns are made on each card, one column for each of the three data fields.Follow the data field instructions for recording the information on the appraisal card (instructions begin on page 234). 236

1- 7- l6- 91- 31- 32- 33a- 33b- 34a- 48a- 34b- 48b- 34c- 48c- 34d- 34e- 50a- 50b- 50c- 53a- 50d- 53b- 55b- 53c- 55c- 55d- 55e- 61a- 61b- 61c- 6Id-

Figure 3.Sample Subject-Index File Card Record Number Item Name Storage Location Color Photo Print Location 8b 238

INSTRUCTIONS FOR PHOTOGRAPHING THE OBJECT

Take a color photograph of each costume and textile in the CTRA collection.Photograph the items in order by record number. Record on a sheet of paper the film roll and print number, and the record number for each item photographed. When the film has been developed and the color prints and negatives returned to the CTRA department, transfer the record number to the back side of the color print. The color print is attached to the appraisal card in the upper- right-hand corner using rubber cement.(See sample card on page 237 ).Identify and record the negative number on the Cataloguing Worksheet following the directions on page 173, data field 4. The photograph negative strips from one roll of film are stored in a small envelope, one envelope for each film roll.Record the negative record numbers of the items photographed on the outside of the envelope. File the photograph negative envelopes in a shoe box, by negative record number.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR NOTING CLEANING AND REPAIR NEEDS

After cataloguing each item and before returning the item to the proper storage location, record on a 3 x 5 inch piece of paper the location of any cleaning or repair needs. Use one piece of paper for each item. Record the record number and storage location of 239 the item at the top of the paper, then list the cleaning or repair needs. The items can be returned to the proper storage location undl such time as the cleaning and repairs can be done. Keep the 3 x 5 papers together in a small file box for use when the cleaning and repair work can be done. Destroy the paper after the cleaning or repair is finished.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR STORAGE OF OBJECTS

Maintain the current storage system until such time as new facilities and policies are established. 240

SYSTEM RULES

1.DIVIDING AN ESTABLISHED FIELD. Use lower case alphabet letters after the established paragraph number to designate subdivisions, e.g., 23a., 23b.Assign titles for each field subdivision which will accurately identify subfield content.

. ESTABLISI-3ING INSTRUCTIONS FOR FIELD USE. Use numbers following the paragraph number to designate instructions or Information not explicit in the field definition.Separate the paragraph numbers from the instruction numbers with a period, e.g., 32.1, 32.2. OMITTING DATA FIELDS. A data field which is not applicable to a given collection may be omitted, reserving the number for future use with other collections. Keeping the data field number consistent with those established by Chenhall (1975) assists in sharing information by all who use the system. ADDING NEW TERMS TO LISTS. When a term is needed which Is not on the sample term list, enter the term in the proper alphabetical location. Maintain an up-to-date list of terms used in specific data fields to maintain consistency and provide relevant recall information. TERM USAGE. Consistent use of term tense, form and spelling must be maintained since the computer will not be able to 241

distinguish between "bowl" and "bowls" any better than "fish" and "star". Term tense is to be in the present and

singular form. Use "pairorsetforor more than one item entered with the same accession/record number. Enter the new term on the appropriate list alphabetically.

6.DATA FIELDS NOT APPLICABLE. Related collections are catalogued on the same system and some fields may not apply to all of the collections, e.g. , slide collections and data fields 8a, 8b, 8c, and 52. For data fields which do not apply to the collection being catalogued, record DNA on the line of the Catalogue Worksheet and the file card to distinguish from blank lines for unidentified information.Note that instructions in the Classifying and Cataloguing Manual identify which of the collections the instructions can be used for, e.g., costume, textile, slide.

. DATA NOT IDENTIFIED. Leave the information space blank for data not identified for the object being catalogued. In the future the information may be identified and recorded. If the requested information to be recorded is not available for an object, write NA in the space in pencil to distinguish from blank spaces which will be filled in after further docu-

mentation. 242

DATE ENTRY FORMAT. Consistently use the following format for dates entered on the Catalogue Worksheet and file cards: month-day-year, e.g., 5-14-1979. Use four digits for the year. Months are numbered one to twelve beginning with January.

NAME ENTRY FORMAT. Enter all names last name first followed by first name. Use full names rather than initials whenever possible.

BIBLIOGRAPHIC CITATION FORMAT. When documenting the source of information, list the citation according to the rules established in chapters seven and eight, pages 125- 143 of Turabian, Kate L. A Manual for Writers, 4th ed. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1973.

MODIFICATION TECHNIQUE DICTIONARY (MTD). The MTD is part of a project of inventorying ethnological collections. The dictionary includes terms and definitions of terms for identifying techniques used in the construction of man- made artifacts. Record only the terms underlined in the MTD. Terms not underlined are synonyms for the acceptable descriptor which is underlined. Use narrower terms followed by the broader term when applicable, e.g., Batik, Resist dyed. 243

CLASSIFYING SLIDES. Classify slide content rather than the slide, except for data field 88 where "MAPE" is to be recorded to designate the object is on a slide.If several objects are included in the slide content, you will need to consult with slide users to identify which object(s) shown in the slide are to be catalogued. REASONABLE GUESS. Any reasonable guess recorded on the Cataloguing Worksheet should be followed by a question mark (?) to inform the user that the information is a reasonable guess. Record the question mark on the file cards also.

TERMS WITH SUBDIVISION CATEGORIES. When using terms that have subdivisions, include both the major headings and the subdivisions of the appropriate terms, e.g., for data field 50: to identify the dye source and type, natural fruit - berry; 244

APPENDIX 0 Recommended Steps For Implementing The Proposed System

The following steps are recommended and should be completed in the suggested order. Review and adopt the proposed system. Review and evaluate the sample term lists. Review and select the recommended reference resources. Review and select material for the labels to be used. Purchase the reference resources, supplies, label materials, and printed forms for implementing the proposed system. Accession all items not previously accessioned or catalogued. Go through all the old records and be sure all the information is recorded on the present catalogue cards, since this information will assist in filling out the catalogue worksheet later. Re-accession all objects following the instructiotis for the proposed system, data field one.Instructions begin on page 171 . Record the new accession number on the present file card using red ink. Do not cover or destroy any information on the file cards. Prepare new labels and attach to the appropriate object following instructions beginning on page 231. Begin the cataloguing process, working with one collection 245 at a time, e.g., costumes or textiles.Fill out the Catalogue Work- sheet as completely as possible, instructions begin on page230 Do costume and textile collections only.Slide collections will be done at a later date. 11.Prepare the appropriate files as follows: Subject-Index File, instructions begin on page 233,

. History of Ownership File, instructions begin on page 232. Documentation File, instructions begin on page 232. Appraisal File, instructions begin on page 234. Registration-Accession File, instructions begin on

page 234. 12. Accession and catalogue the slide collections one faculty office at a time, recording new label information following instructions beginning on page 231, and completing a Catalogue Worksheet for each slide.

13.Prepare and file the Subject-Index File cards for slides following instructions beginning on page 233. The cards will be interfiled with the Subject-Index File cards for the costumes and textiles.

14.Store all items in the appropriate location, see page 239.

15.Establish a storage and study area for the Subject-Index File including a table, chair, and adequate lighting. 246

16.Investigate procedures for photographing textile and costume collections, select an appropriate procedure, make necessary purchases and photograph the textiles and costumes following instructions beginning on page 238. Attach the color photo print to the Appraisal File card in the space provided. 247

APPENDIX P

Revised Form for Evaluating the Proposed System Procedures, With Responses from the Two Re-test Users

Did you find the categories and subcategories comprehensive for a collection used for display and teaching purposes ? 2-yes Did you find the categories and subcategories relevant for a collection used for display and teaching purposes ? 2-yes Was the terminology simple, standardized, and definable? 1-yes, but some were difficult to understand such as cultural time period. 1-yes, but some terms can be used more than one way. Were the categories consistent so similar objects could be catalogued in the same manner? 2-yes, there should be no problem. Were the terms consistent so similar objects could be catalogued in the same manner? 2-yes Was information easy to record for each object? 1-yes, easy enough once familiar with system. 1-yes, except where unfamiliar with geography. Were code numbers easy to write down? e.g., accession number and location number? 2-yes 248

8.Was placement of the object into the system objective ? 1 - yes 1 - no, the identification of images could be subjective. 9. Are the category subdivisions mutually exclusive? 2 - yes 10. Are objects described rather than the information about the objects being interpreted? 2 - yes 11. Was adequate information provided on the catalogue worksheet for the collections to be used for display and teaching? 2 - yes 12. Were the directions clear and easy to understand for the procedures? 2 - yes, would be easier with better understanding of cataloguing. 13. Were the definitions for the data fields clear and easy to understand? 2 - yes 249

APPENDIX Q Preliminary Draft of the Cataloguing Worksheet OBJECT IDENTIFICATION AND HISTORY 2-08U/CTRA 88-pre .obj .c1ass 91-item name 1-record no. lamplhQupc.nos, 3b-rel. ec.nos 7-sto age.loc. 4-photo neg. no. 5-add.data Ba-pres.val. 8b-doc.sor. 9-collector 10-date coll. 12-recorder 13-date rec. I4-method of acq. 15-date of acq. 16a-donor 16b-donor add. 20-references ORIGINS 21-mfg/printer 22-art/photo/desig 25-date of orig/use 31-cult. time period 32-dev.stage/style 25b-date veri.source 33a-cultural area 33b-specific culture

34a-continent 34b-country 34c-state 34d-county/isl.

34e-city/town 34h-place of purchase DESCRIPTION 46-condition 47-material 48a -tech: garment 48b-tech: fabric 48c-tech: design 50a-color 50b-color 48d-tech: emb/dx/a pp 50c-color 50d-color 50e-color 51-f orm/s ha pe 52-dimensions/size 53a-const. parts 53b-const. features 53c-emb/decor/append. 55a-gen.desc. 54-no.parts 55b-age 55c-sex 55d-spec .use 55e-spec. per 56a-title 56b-source 57-lang 60-mark/ins. 61c-motif 61d-motif Liammaif 61b-motif 61e-motif 89-br.inf.c1ass 90-spec.inf.class

Description

46-condition_ 47-mate lal 48a-tech:fabric 48b-tech: structural design 48c-tech :a pp. des/emb/dec/a pp 48d-tech: other 50a- color 50b-color- 50c-cOlor 50d-color 50e-color 5 la -form/s ha pe 51b-garment silh. 52-dimen. 53a-const. parts 53b-const.feat. 53c-emb/decfa pp 54-no. parts 55a- eneral ctesc. 55/3-age 55c-sex 55d-spec.use 55e-spec.per. 56a-title 56b-source 57-language 60-mark/ins.

61a-motif - 61b-motif 61c-motif 61d-motif 61e-motif 89-broad anf.class 90-spec.inf.class 251

APPENDIX R Retrieval Problems to Test Subject-Index Retrievability after Implementation

I.Location of all items in collection which have Alencon lace on them. Examples of brocade. Men's mandarin squares, and women's mandarin squares. Are there any slides of looms ? What items are there in the collection that are American Indian? Is there ta pa cloth in the collection? Examples showing subtle transitions in color or shape or form or texture using any method or technique. Examples of double cloth fabrics either contemporary and/or of of a specific time period:(a) women, (b) single element technique (crocheted, knitted, knotless netting). The Exxon Corporation has requested an exhibit for their lobby. The topic is examples of contemporary landscape scenes on tapestries. What tapestries with contemporary landscape scenes are included in the CTRAcollection? Are there any undergarments from the 1850's, e.g., hoop petticoats ? Are there any hats from the 1870's? Are there costumes in the collection that have unusual sleeve treatments ?