INDEX 343

179 147, 12 © Lonely Planet Lonely © 115 INDEX (A - B) (A INDEX churches & see churches 5 178 asilica di San asilica 4 ssunta 156 A 109-10 217-18, Maggiore 50 Maggiore 148-9 Maggiore 109, 164-6 Salvatore 201, 209-10 227-8, & B asilica di Sant’Andrea di Sant’Andrea asilica 150, accommodation 166, 297-8 attractions 146-9 Basilica di Santa Maria Basilica di Santa Maria Basilica 115 di San Giacomo Basilica di San Giulio 98 50 Basilica di San Lorenzo 59 Basilica di San Michele 92 Basilica di San Vittore Basilica di San Zeno cathedrals & cathedrals, monasteries & abbeys Basilica di San Fedele B Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio Basilica di Sant’Abbondio Basilica di Sant’Abbondio Lake 122, 123, 124 Lake 195, 197, 200, Garda Lake Ledro 205 Lake 133 Lugano 96 Lake Monate & bell towers clocktowers Basilica di Santa Maria Basilica di Santa Maria Monastero di SantaMonastero Giulia ellinzona 137-40, 138, B Bergamo 146-55, 142-3, Bagni di Masino 129-30 Bagni di Masino Balcone d’Italia 182 120, baptisteries, Bardolino 16, 210-13, 271 Barzio 128 basilicas 250, see also churches bathrooms 314 42 Battistero di San Giovanni 83 Baveno 262-3 beaches see watchtowers, bell towers, Bellagio 114-15, Bellano 127 B escos 7 13 arrara 149 see also fr 265-8 203, 259 128, 329 218 Contemporanea 149 Contemporanea Moderna 74 50-1 46 d’Arte 160 51, 246, 249, 149, 217, 223, 228, 248, 14 50, 149, 160, 249 antegna, Andrea 46, 47, 46, 47, Andrea antegna, Mantua 226 Mantua Renaissance 244-6 silk-making 15, 110-11, d’Annunzio, Gabriele 199, Ernest 81 Hemingway, 136 Hermann Hesse, Alessandro 126, Manzoni, William 213, Shakespeare, Accademia C Accademia Tadini 160 Accademia Tadini Moderna e Galleria d’Arte Galleria dei Quadri 87 La di Milano 46-7 Triennale Museo Cantonale 133 d’Arte Museo d’Arte Comunale Museo Antica 46 d’Arte Museo Moderna 133 d’Arte 49-50 Museo Poldi-Pezzoli Ambrosiana Pinacoteca 47 di Brera Pinacoteca e RaccoltePinacoteca Gianni BelliniPinacoteca Caravaggio 51, 153 Leonardo da Vinci 42-3, 46, Tiepolo, Giambattista 46, Tiepolo, Lotto, Lorenzo 152, 161, 249 Lotto, Lorenzo M Ascona 74 Ascona 312 ATMs 78 Aurigeno authors 96 Azzate Arena di 215, 215, di Verona Arena 120 Argegno Arona 83 art galleries 245 artists arts 110, 244-7, see

monasteries & see monasteries MAP PAGES MAP PAGES PHOTOGRAPH

159, 258-9 162, 250-4 Castelseprio 94 Comunale di Seraldina Bedolina 162 218-19

inside front cover front cover inside stile libertystile 119, 156, Gothic 252-4 Renaissance 253-6 Roman 250, 255 Romanesque 12, 117, Parco Archeologico di Archeologico Parco Parco Archeologico Archeologico Parco Museo 139, Archeologico also individual activities Bergamo 166, 297-8 166, 299 Brescia 166, 299 Cremona 113, 294-7 228, 299-301 Lake Iseo 298-9 Lake Lugano 113, 297 75, 291-3 Lake Maggiore Lake Orta 293-4 331 language 228, 302 Mantua 56, 288-90 290 302 228, Verona abbeys 000

000 INDEX A Ardesio 156 codes 313-14, see also area architecture 250-4 architecture air travel 317-18 air travel Alpi Orobie 261 amusement parks 83, 212 Anello Azzurro 99 88-9 Angera aperitivi 48, 280-1 aquariums 46 sites archaeological Acquario Civico 46 activities 20-3, 260-4, accommodation 8, 9, 286-8 abbeys, LONELYPLANET.COM LONELYPLANET.COM INDEX Brè 134, MarioBotta, 134 Bossico 160 Bosco Gurin78 Borromeo family42,86-8, Borromean Islands86-8 border crossings318-19 Bordei 76 books, Bonaparte, Napoleon86, boat travel birdwatching 84 bicycle travel, Bianzano 161 Silvio38,243 Berlusconi, Brunate 111 d’Adda153 Brignano Gera Brescia 164-9, Breno 163 Bergamo 344 000 000 256, 266 itineraries 64 accommodation 292-3 239-41 tours 228 lakesto/from theItalian 11,79,205,206 sailing SuperioreLake 228 101 Orta Lake MaggioreLake 65,76,86, Lugano131 Lake 163 Iseo Lake Garda191 Lake Como103,118,126 Lake 159,161 canoeing lakesaround theItalian travel to&within152 tours 144 tourist information146 planning 144-5 itineraries 148 food 149,151-2 146 emergency services travel to&within168-9 tours 144 tourist information164 planning 144-5 food 167-8 164 emergency services attractions 164-7 accommodation 166,299 320 88, 91 322-3 INDEX (B-C)

PHOTOGRAPH PAGES MAP PAGES see 6-7 continued authors see 142-3 cycling LONELYPLANET.COM , 165 castles 14 Olona93 Castiglione Castelvecchio 215-16 93-4 Castelseprio 157 delSerio Cascate 89 Casalzuigno 218 diGiulietta Casa 158 Carzano carroccio Careno 116 70-1 Cardada 51,153 Caravaggio car travel 305-6,324-6 car racing62,167 159,161 canoeing 79 Cannobio 78 Campo Cadrezzate 96 cable cars, business hours 303-4, bus travel 319-20,323-4 C Il Castello ScaligeroIl Castello 209 VisconteoCastello (Pavia) VisconteoCastello diVezioCastello 127, diSassoCorbaro Castello diMontebelloCastello 139 diMalpagaCastello 153 delGrumello161 Castello Castello SforzescoCastello SforzescoCastello (Milan) ScaligeroCastello 207 degliAndreaniCastello Colleoni153 Castello 138-9 Castelgrande Brescia 167 Breno 163 Bornato 161 Bellinzona 137-9, Bellinzona 205-6 Bastione road rules326 road maps311 parking 8,325 insurance 320 hire 325 Ecopass 57 driving tours 95-6,153-5 driving licences320 inside frontcover 58 (Locarno) 70 62-3 (Vigevano) 43, 46-7, 139 127-8 242 see funiculars 14 179 see also 183

Centovalli 76, Centovalli 11 Centomiglia cell phones313-14 Cavernago 153 cathedrals, churches &cathedrals12-13, children, travel with24,304-5 chemists 303 18,155-6,276 cheese 78 Cevio diPaviaCertosa 59-60 118-19 Cernobbio Chiesa diSant’AgostinoChiesa 172 Maria diSanta Chiesa Foris Maria diSanta Chiesa delle Maria diSanta Chiesa del Maria diSanta Chiesa del Maria diSanta Chiesa degli diSanVittoreChiesa 87 diSanTomè155 Chiesa diSanSigismondo Chiesa diSanRocco139 Chiesa diSanMichele al Chiesa diSanGiovanniChiesa diSanGiovanniChiesa 116 diSanFrancisco Chiesa diSanBiagio139 Chiesa diSanBernardino Chiesa diSanAndreaChiesa 111 delSantoSpirito152 Chiesa deiSSGiacomo Chiesa deiSantiFermoChiesa deiSS Collegiata Chiesa diSanGiovanniBattistero monasteries &abbeys cathedrals Soave 222 Monasterolo delCastello 250-4, Swissminiatur 137 Parco dellScienza229 language 336 parks83,212 amusement Portas 94 Portas Grazie 43,139 Tiglio 123 Sasso 137 Angioli 133 172 Pozzo 152 127 Battista 200-1 152 e Filippo121 e Rustico153 Pietro eStefano 139 42 161 see also see churches & 7 basilicas, INDEX 345

10 178-9 see 21 see also inside see also inside see inside front see inside boat travel 11 INDEX (C - F) (C INDEX see shopping car travel car travel festivals & events festivals see see see 211 Fiera Degli Obei Obei 11 172 Monteverdi Film 74, Camelia 83 139, 172, 220 Festa di Sant’Ambrogio & Festa Claudio di Cremona Festival di Internazionale Festival front cover individual towns car racing 62 Centomiglia 11 172 Cremona 107 Estival Jazz del Torrone 172 Festa e del Vino dell’Uva Festa football 22, 49, Formula One 62 Giro d’Italia 23, 116, di Vigevano 11, 63 Il Palio Lake Lugano 107, 134, 139 74, 83 Lake Maggiore 107 Lugano Festival Milan 51 11 Milano Musica Festival Mille Miglia 167 Mostra Nazionale della music 10-11, 51, 74, 107, opera 220 San Pellegrino 156 San Pellegrino wine 270-3 cover cover F E exchange rates, rates, exchange Falmenta 79 Falmenta fashion, travel, ferry Duomo (Pavia) 59 Duomo (Pavia) 57 Ecopass 99 Egro electricity 304 embassies 306-7 333, emergencies services,emergency Erbonne 120 161 Esmate 107 Estival Jazz 15 etiquette events, festivals & events 10-11 festivals drug laws 311 39, 42, Duomo (Milan) driving, 170 , 10 142-3 see also 13 184 48, 280-1 art galleries, see 213, 216-7 51, 246, 249, 203, 259 aperitivi 280 coffee 285 language shopping Giro d’Italia 23, 116, 194 inside front cover inside accommodation 166, 299 attractions 169-72 & events172 festivals food 172-3 planning 144-5 tourist information 169 Lake Garda 207 Lake Iseo 159 Lake Ledro 205 79 Lake Maggiore 229 Mantua MottaroneMonte 82 Museo del Ciclismo 116 Triangolo Lariano 116 tourist information 109 information tourist 113-14 to & within travel D Desenzano del Garda 193-4, Dante statueDante 217 Della Scala family 207, 209, da Vinci, Leonardo, 46, 42-3, d’Annunzio, Gabriele 199, design, with 315 disabilities, travellers DOC classification 270-3 Domodossola 76 111, 116 Dorsale drinks 16-19, 307 credit cards 312 credit 174-5 Crema 169-73, Cremona courses 36, 188 courses Cracco 51-2, d’Adda 154-5 Crespi Crodo 77 12-15 culture 305 customs regulations cycling 262, 322 consulates 306-7 consulates 127-8 Plinio Corenno 156 Tasso Cornello dei Corripo 77 corruption 242-3 51 dei Re Magi Corteo Costaripa 195 306, costs 8, 288, watchtowers, watchtowers, 108-9 (Orta) 98 see 182 della Croce 175 dell’Incoronata 174 Santissima Trinità 80 121 83 del Ghisallo 116 del Sasso 70 di Caravaggio 153 202, 218 e Protaso 83 Beckett 127-8 Misericordia 74 178-9 accommodation 294 attractions 109-11 servicesemergency 109 food 111-13 silk-making 265-9 Santuario di Santa Maria Santuario di Santa Maria Civico Tempio clocktowers & bell towers clocktowers Duomo (Monza) 62 59 Duomo (Pavia) 166 Duomo Nuovo 166-7 Duomo Vecchio Pieve di San Siro 162-3 227 Rotonda di San Lorenzo del Rosario 93 Sacro Monte della Sacro Monte di Ossuccio Sacro Monte di San CarloSacro Monte sacro monte Santuario della Madonna Santuario della Madonna Santuario della Madonna Santuario di Montecastello Chiesa di Sant’Anastasia Chiesa SS Gervaso di Chiesa di Tommaso 70 Chiesa Nuova della Chiesa SantaMaria Collegiata 93 Duomo (Bergamo) 148 Duomo (Como) 110 169-71 Duomo (Cremona) Duomo (Milan) 39, 42, Cima Sighignola 120, 182 Cimetta 70-1 117 Civate 8 climate clocktowers, LONELYPLANET.COM LONELYPLANET.COM Clooney, George 120 Clooney, George 280 coffee 74 Collegio Papio Colli di Bergamo 155 Comabbio 96 Como 109-14, INDEX football 22,49, frescos 14,244-7 16,160-1,271 Franciacorta fortresses 88-9 Forno 99 Formula One62 Foreloin 78 food 8,16-19,274-85,307, film 74,121 festivals &events 346 000 000 Chiesa diSanSigismondo Chiesa diSanMichele al Chiesa diSanGiovanniChiesa diSanBernardino Chiesa delSantoSpirito152 Chiesa Castelvecchio 215-16 139 Bellinzona vegetarian 277-8,307 torrone Ristorante Marconi 77-8 Ristorante Gualtiero Restel deFer 206, restaurants 17,19,37,69, Peck 53 olive oil193,195,207 dell’Oliod’Oliva211 Museo L’Antico Ristorante Boeucc language 332 Il Sole90-1 Cracco 51-2, 18,155-6,276 cheese destinationsalso individual Basilica diSant’AbbondioBasilica diSanZeno Basilica Soncino 175 Rocca Scaligera 212 Rocca149 La Castelvecchio 215-16 Swiss NationalDay10 Musicali74 Settimane delTulipano83 Settimana 11 sailing Storica161 Rievocazione 139 Rabadan Piazza BluesFestival 139 INDEX (F-I) 172 Pozzo 152 127 Battista 152 Marchesi 163 107, 145 52-3 109, Maggiore 217-18

PHOTOGRAPH PAGES MAP PAGES 172,279 178 21 184

continued 184 see gardens, Garda 209-10 Gandria 136 Gandino 156 Galleria VittorioEmanuele history 232-43 hiking, Hesse, Hermann 136 Hemingway, Ernest81 health 308-9 hang-gliding 89,264 Gromo 156 Gravedona 123 gorges 77,79,155 23,116, Giro d’Italia Giardini Pubblici50 80 Ghiffa gay travellers 307-8 Gavirate 96 funiculars 70-1, Gargnano 200-2, Gargagnano 222 Gardone Riviera199-200 G H Varese 93 Varese Valle Maggia 78 82 Monte Mottarone MaggioreLake 89 Lugano133-4 Lake Garda207-16 Lake Como111,120 Lake Tiepolo, 50, Giambattista Palazzo Ducale223, Masolino daPanicale 93 Mantegna, Andrea 217, Last Supper 69 Orta Lake MaggioreLake 69,89 diSant’Anastasia Chiesa diSant’AgostinoChiesa Maria diSanta Chiesa Foris Maria diSanta Chiesa degli II 47, Bonaparte, Napoleon86, Silvio38,243 Berlusconi, medical care 310 language 332-3 249 223, 218 172 94 Portas Angioli 133 239-40 see 9 see 14 walking parks&gardens 42-3, 182-3 8 13 10 14 holidays 309 Isola Bella 86-7,256, Isola Bella internet resources, internet access310 insurance 310,320 Il Sole90-1 128 Il Resegone Il Palio 11,63 diVigevano Il cenacoloVinciano itineraries 29-32 languageItalian 283-5,329-36, Isolino SanGiovanni 80 Isole diBrissago74 Isola Virginia 96 Isola Superiore 87 Isola SanGiulio98, Isola Pescatori 87 Isola Madre 87 Isola delGarda197 Isola Comacina120-1 I WWII 241 WWI 241 Visigoths 234-5 Visconti family153-4,172, Tangentopoli 242-3 235 St Barnabas silk-making 265-8 Sforza family172,175, Romans 232-4,244,250, 197-8, Mussolini, Benito 233 Julius Caesar Gauls 233-4 Della Scalafamily207,209, corruption 242-3 Christians 234-5 232-3 Celts Borromeo family42,86-8, wine regions 32 Verona 185,216 32 Triangolo Lariano Po Valley 31 Milan 33 Mantua 185,226 MaggioreLake 30,64 Garda30,185 Lake Como29,102 Lake Borromean Islands64 148 Bergamo see alsoinside frontcover 236-7, 252,279 237-9, 279 255 241-2 213, 216-7 256, 266 LONELYPLANET.COM see 4-5 42-3, 7 websites , 180 13 INDEX 347

44-5 , 5 177 , inside inside

, 14 40-1 , 208 224-5 132 see also 34-5 INDEX (JINDEX - M) 228, 248 217, 223, frescos 128, 329 accommodation 56, 288-90 attractions 39, 42-3, 46-51 39 & annoyances dangers servicesemergency 39 & events 11, 51 festivals food 51-4 itineraries 33 48-9 Navigli 54-56 nightlife parking 58 planning 36-7 shopping 52, 56-7 accommodation 228, 302 attractions 223, 226-9 servicesemergency 222 food 229-30 itineraries 185, 226 planning 188-9 tourist information 222 188 tours & within 230 to travel festivals & events 74 festivals food 75 75-6 nightlife 76 to/from travel 297 accommodation attractions 133-4 & events107, 134 festivals food 134-5 135 nightlife to & within 135-6 travel front cover M Maggia 78 Maggia 116 Magreglio 206-9, Malcesine 79 Malesco 46, 47, 149, Andrea Mantegna, 222-30, Mantua maps 311-12 90, 198, 210 markets 304, measures Manzoni, Alessandro 126, Manzoni, Lodi 174 103, 120, 128, 136 lookouts 21, 152, 161, 249 Lotto, Lorenzo 160 Lovere Lugano 131-40, Luino 90 Melide 136-7 Melide 122-3 Menaggio 137 Meride Milan 33-63, , , see 72-3 , 11 66-7 , 66-7 71 13 13 authors 42-3, see 182-3 , 135-6, 140 76, 78, 86, 88, 91, 95 88, 91 86-94 Park83 51, 246, 249, nightlife 135 nightlife 106-7 planning 131, 138 tourist information to & around 131, travel accommodation 291 attractions 70-1, 74 tours 68 tours to & around 65, 70, travel 52-3 festivals & events74, 83 festivals food 75, 83-6, 90-1, 94-5 itineraries 30, 64 75-6 nightlife planning 68-9 tourist information 65, 79, 4-5 accommodation 293-4 attractions 97-9 food 99-100 100 nightlife tourist information 97 68 tours to & around 100-1 travel front cover also inside 72-3 75, 291-3 accommodation 74, 76-83, attractions 70-1, Lake Maggiore 65-91 65-91 Lake Maggiore Lake Mezzo 229 Lake Mezzo 96 Lake Monate Lake Orta 96-101, Lake Maggiore Adventure Adventure Lake Maggiore Lavertezzo 77 Lavertezzo Lazise 212 Lecco 126 310-11 legal matters Legro 98 lemon-houses 201 Lenno 121 Leonardo 46, da Vinci 42-3, 307-8 lesbian travellers Limone sul Garda 202 literature, Livo 123 Lizzola 157 Locarno 65, 70-6, Last Supper Last Lake 123 Piano 228, 229 Lake Superiore 95 Varese Lake 283-5, 329-36, language BoeuccL’Antico Ristorante

,

12 ,

, 186-7 104-5 159 Teatro alla Scala Teatro 6-7 177 183

, , see , 21 24 139 299-301 205-12 208-10, 212-13 193, 197, 203, 207, 211 126-30 124-5, 130 114, 118, 126 125-6, 130-1 , , 23 104-5 accommodation 113, 297 attractions 133-4, 136-9 servicesemergency 131 & events 107, 134, festivals food 134-5, 139-40 accommodation 298-9 attractions 158-63 food 163 tourist information 158 to & around 163-4 travel accommodation 228, attractions 192-5, 197-203, food 193-4, 198, 200-2, 205, itineraries 30, 185 planning 188-9 tourist information 191, 188 tours to & around 190-1 travel accommodation 113, 294-7 attractions 109-11, 114-24, servicesemergency 109 food 111-13, 117-18, itineraries 29, 102 planning 106-7 tourist information 109, 106 tours to & around 103, 118, travel 20 L J Lake 161 Endine Lake Gaiano 161 Lake Garda 185-213, La Grigna Settentrionale 128 La Scala, 111 La Tessitura Laglio 119 Lake Annone 117 Lake Comabbio 95-6 Lake Como 102-31, Julius CaesarJulius 233 LONELYPLANET.COM LONELYPLANET.COM Lake Ledro 205 Lake Lugano 102, 131-140, Lake Inferiore 229 Lake Inferiore Lake Iseo 158-64, INDEX Monte Baldo 207, Monte Baldo Moniga delGarda195 money 8,288,306,312-13, Monate 96 Monasterolo 161 delCastello monasteries &abbeys, Moltrasio 119 mobile phones313-14 Mille Miglia167 motorcycle travel 320,324-6, Mostra Nazionaledella Morcote 137 Monza 62 Monteverdi, Claudio172 Monte 82 Mottarone 158 136 Monte Generoso Monte Bisbino 119 Milan 348 museums, museums, biking, mountain 000 000 also inside frontcover Santa Caterina delSasso89 Caterina Santa Monastero SanPietroin Monastero diTorba94 Giulia Monastero diSanta Monastero diSanMichele diPaviaCertosa 59-60 Abbazia diSanPietroal Abbazia diSanNicola160 Abbazia diPiona128 cathedrals also travel within57-8 travel to/from57 tours 36 tourist information39 see also 83 Camelia Museo degliStrumenti Museo CivicodiStoria Museo 74 Anatta Casa Museo Archeologico 139, Museo diSolferinoMusei 192 Civici58 Musei ScaligeroIl Castello 209 INDEX (M-P) Lamosa 160 Lamosa Salvatore 164-6 diSan & Basilica 96 Monte 117 Musicali 46 Naturale 50 218-19

PHOTOGRAPH PAGES MAP PAGES continued basilicas,churches & cartravel see also see artgalleries 20 LONELYPLANET.COM cycling , 177 see see newspapers 304 Mussolini, Benito 197-8,241-2 Mussolini, Benito music Orta SanGiulio 97-8, Orta opera 48,220 Parco NazionaleVal Grande 84 Parco dellScienza 229 paragliding 74,205, 207,264 Palazzo Madre 87 Palazzo Ducale 223, Palazzo Borromeo86-7, palazzi, see Pagazzano 154 Padenghe sulGarda195 opening hours 303-4, Omegna 98 Oltrepò 16 olive oil193,195,207 Oira 98 national parks&reserves, N P O also parks &gardens violins 46,171 opera 48,220 festivals 10-11,51, &events Swissminiatur 137 Parco Archeologico di TeatraleMuseo allaScala48 62 Serpero Museo RivadelGarda203, Museo Poldi-PezzoliMuseo 49-50 MilleMiglia167 Museo HermannMuseo Hesse 136 Europeodei Museo dell’OmbrelloMuseo edel dell’Oliod’Oliva211 Museo delleDogane Museo delleCultureMuseo 110-11 dellaSeta Museo dellaPreistoriaMuseo 46 88 dellaBambola Museo delVino211 Museo delCiclismo116 Museo deiFossili137 Museo 74, 107,139,172,220 94 Castelseprio 205 Trasporti 89 Parasole 82 Svizzere 136 133 Extraeuropee

inside frontcover villas & palazzi 5 , see 97 14 180 see Peck 53 Pavia 58-61, Pasturo 128 Parlasco 127 parks &gardens74,86,255-9 parking 8,325 accommodation 290 Villa Taranto 80,257 114 Villa Serbelloni Villa Olmo110,257 Villa Monastero 126-7 Villa Melzi d’Eril114, 257, Villa d’Este 118-19 Bozzolo90 Villa dellaPorta 121-2 Villa delBalbianello Villa Cipressi 126-7 Villa Carlotta 122,257, Villa Carlotta 257 Villa Balbianello delTulipano 83 Settimana NaturaleTorbiere Riserva NaturaleRegionale Riserva di NaturaleLago Riserva Parco 46 Sempione Parco Scherrer 137 Parco NazionaleVal Grande Parco Nazionaledelle Parco dellaVillaPallavicino Parco dellaGrigna Parco SanGrato Botanico Parco del Botanico Parco Archeologico Mostra Nazionaledella Como29 Lake 256 Isola Bella Giardino Giusti217 Giardino Botanico Alpinia Giardino Botanico Giardini Reali62 Giardini Pubblici50 Giardini Estensi 91 Borromean Islands87 181 180-1 del Sebino 160 del Sebino Valle delFreddo 161 Piano 123 84 Incisioni Rupestri162 81-2 128 Settentrionale 137 Gambarogno 90 162 Bedolina Comunale diSeraldina 83 Camelia 199-200 Fondazione AndréHeller 82 59 INDEX 349 77

9 21 INDEX (P - T) (P - INDEX 81 119, 156, 159, 172, 279 Emanuele II 47, Emanuele II 258-9 149, 160, 249 XXIII 155 Galleria Vittorio Galleria Vittorio Bosco Gurin 78 Lake Como 129 Lake 207 Garda Mottarone 82 Monte 117 Pian del Tivano Camonica 162 Valle 265-8 La Tessitura 111 La Tessitura 334 language 90, 198, 210 markets d’Oro 43 Quadrilatero T Stradivari, Antonio 171 80-1, Stresa time 314, 334-5 129 Tirano toilets 314 Torba 93-4 Torno 115-16 Torri del Benaco 209 torrone speed limits 325 St Barnabas 235 libertystile 242-3 Tangentopoli tax 312 taxis 326 alla Scala 48, 51, 134 Teatro Bibiena 226-7 Teatro servicestelephone 313-14 television 304 Voltiano 111 Tempio theft 305 thermal springs 192-3 16, 76-8, 272, 281, Ticino Giambattista 46, 50, Tiepolo, tourist information 315 Solferino 192 Solferino Sonogno 77 Giovanni Sotto il Monte 306 student travellers Swiss National Day 10 Swissminiatur 137 shoes 62-3 shopping smoking 307 222, 272 16, Soave soccer 22, 49, Sirmione 191-3 skiing 22, 263 silk-making 15, 110-11, silk-making 15, 204 21 184 218 (Orta) 98 196 7 182 215, 218 250, 255 121 202, 237-9, 279 Desenzano 194 di CatulloGrotte 192 (Verona) Roman Arena 250-4 Trinità 80 Marchesi 163 Marchesi 255 S Romeo and Juliet Ronco 99 San Carlo di Sacro Monte 83 sacro monte sailing 11, 79, 205, 206 Salò 197-8, William 213, Shakespeare, Romano di Lombardia 153 Roman history 232-4, 244, di Ossuccio Sacro Monte San Benedetto 228 Po 120 d’Intelvi San Fedele 222 San Giorgio 111 San Maurizio 156 Terme San Pellegrino San Pietro in Cariano 221 San Siro stadium 49, 93 del Monte Santa Maria 76 Maggiore Santa Maria Santuario di Montecastello Sarnico 159-60 89 Sasso del Ferro 95 Schiranna 306 senior travellers Settimana del Tulipano 83 Settimane Musicali 74 family 172, 175, Sforza Ristorante Marconi 77-8 Marconi Ristorante 203-6, Riva del Garda 244 Roman sites Romanesque 12, 117, 162, del Rosario 93 Sacro Monte della Santissima Sacro Monte Red Cross 192 Red Cross Renaissance 253-6 244-6, 206, Fer de Restel Rievocazione Storica 161 Gualtiero Ristorante Robiei dam 78 88-9 Rocca di Angera 197 Rocca di Manerba rock carvings 162, 232 250, Roman architecture

see also 148 216-17 (Cannobio) 79 50-1 itineraries Bergamo 144-5 144-5 Brescia 144-5 Cremona Lake 106-7 Como Lake Garda 188-9 Lake Lugano 106-7 68-9 Lake Maggiore 188-9 Mantua Milan 36-7 188-9 Verona R Q Rabadan 139 radio 304 76 Rasa Re 76 Quadrilatero d’Oro 43 Quadrilatero Peglio 123 Peglio 99 Pella 114 Pescallo pharmacies 303 phonecards 314 116-17 Pian del Tivano 139 Festival Piazza Blues 217 Piazza dei Signori 169 Piazza del Comune (Bergamo)Piazza del Duomo 42 Piazza del Duomo (Milan) Piazza della Vittoria 167 227 Piazza delle Erbe (Mantua) Piazza delle Erbe (Verona) III Piazza di Vittorio Emanuele Piazza Ducale 61-3 Grappa 91-2 Piazza Monte Piazza Sordello 227 146-8 Piazza Vecchia Pieve di Ledro 205 Pigra 120 Ambrosiana Pinacoteca 47 di Brera Pinacoteca Pizzighettone 173-4 planning 4-24, 31 Po Valley police 310 pollution 306 postal services 313 202 Pra de la Fam d’Iseo160 Provaglio public holidays 309 Punta San Vigilio 209-10 LONELYPLANET.COM LONELYPLANET.COM INDEX Varenna 126-7 Varanno Borghi 96 Valtenesi 195,197 Valtellina 16, 129,273, Valsassina 128-9 Valpolicella 16,221-2,272, Valle Maggia 78 Valle 162-3 Camonica Valcalepio 161,272 Valbondione 156 Val Verzasca 77 Val Taleggio 155-6 Val Masino 129-30 Val d’Intelvo 120 Val d’Esino127 Val 161 Cavallina Val 79-80 Cannobina Val Bavona78 Università degliStudidiPavia 114-18 Triangolo Lariano Treviglio 153 Trescore 161 Balneario Tremezzo 122 trekking, travel lakes to/fromtheItalian travel lakes aroundtheItalian train travel 76,321-2,326-8 train routes towers, tours 350 V U 000 000 58-9 travel to&around118 itineraries 32 food 117-18 attractions 114-17 9, 317-22 322-8, 335-6 clocktowers &belltowers wine regions 144 Verona 188 Milan 36 Mantua 188 68 Orta Lake MaggioreLake 68 Garda188 Lake Como106 Lake driving tours 95-6,153-5 Brescia 144 boat 228 144 Bergamo INDEX (T -W) INDEX (T

PHOTOGRAPH PAGES MAP PAGES see see watchtowers, 327 walking LONELYPLANET.COM 129 16 villas & 61-3 Vigevano viewpoints 21,103,120,128, 80 Via delleGenti Vezio 127 Verona 213-22, Verdasio 76 Verbania 80 vegetarian travellers 277-8,307 Varese 91-6, Palazzo Borromeo86-7, Como29 Lake 192 Grotte diCatullo 194 Desenzano 255-9 Palazzo Ducale223, Palazzo 147 dellaRagione Palazzo delPodestà 227 Palazzo 207 deiCapitani Palazzo Comunale169 136 travel within221 travel to/from221 tours 188 tourist information213 planning 188-9 nightlife 220-1 itineraries 185,216 food 219-20 213 emergency services attractions 215-19 accommodation 228,302 Villa Taranto 80, 257 Villa Suardi161 114,256 Villa Serbelloni Villa Recalcati92 Villa Reale62 Villa Panza 92-3 Villa Olmo110,257 Villa Oleandra120 Villa Monastero 126-7 Villa Melzi d’Eril114,257, Villa Faccanoni 159 Villa Erba119 Villa d’Este 118-19 Villa Cipressi 126-7 122,257, Villa Carlotta 119 Villa Bernasconi 121-2, Villa Balbianello Palazzo Te 223,226 Palazzo Nuovo 147 Palazzo Maffei 216 Palazzo Madre 87 Palazzo 91-2 Estense 180 6 180-1 257, , 181 palazzi 12 92 12,89-90, 214 , 8 5 , 14 wildlife parks81-2, wetlands 160 weights 304, weights websites 9,13,145 weather 8 waterskiing 124 waterfalls 127,157,203,221 watchtowers, clocktowers & Walsers 99 walking 20,260-1 Voltorre 96 Visconti family153-4,172, 315-16 visas violins 46,171 W parks &gardens front cover Verona 189 travel tickets 318 tourist information315 Milan 37 Mantua 189 69 Orta Lake MaggioreLake 69 Lugano107 Lake Garda189 Lake Como107 Lake health 308 accommodation 287 Torre Pretoria 175 Torre diBramante 62 Torre dell’Orologio166 Torre dellaGabbia227 Torre 148 delCampanone 217 Torre deiLamberti Torre Civica92 Torre Branca46 bell towers 59 80 Via delleGenti 122 Via deiMontiLariani Valle Maggia 78 Strada Regia117 Parco NazionaleVal Monte 82 Mottarone maps 311-12 99 Orta Lake Lugano136 Lake 205 Ledro Lake Garda207 Lake Como128,130 Lake di Greenway delLago Dorsale 111,116 areaBergamo 156-7 236-7, 252,279 Grande 84 Como 122 see also see also

inside INDEX 351

INDEX (W) INDEX 129 211 16 263 DOC 270-3 e del Vino dell’Uva Festa Museo del Vino 211 Bardolino 211 Franciacorta 16, 160-1, 271 itineraries 32 222 Soave 144 tours 161, 272 Valcalepio 16, 221-2, 272, Valpolicella Valtenesi 195, 197 Valtenesi Valtellina 16, 129, 273, Valtellina windsurfing 79, 130, 202, 206, 79, 130, windsurfing 145, 270-3 wine 17, 18, 145, 270-3 16, 18, wine regions LONELYPLANET.COM LONELYPLANET.COM women travellers 309, 316 women travellers 253 sites World Heritage 352 LONELYPLANET.COM

MAP LEGEND Note Not all symbols displayed below appear in this guide.

ROUTES SYMBOLS IN THE KEY

Tollway Tunnel Essential Information Gastronomic Highlights Freeway Pedestrian Mall Tourist Office Eating Primary Road Steps Police Station Cafe Secondary Road Walking Track Explorin Nightlif TeT rtiary Road Walking Path Beach Drinking Lane Walking Tour Buddhist Entertainment Unsealed Road WalW king Tour Detour Castle, Fort Recommended Shops Under Construction Pedestrian Overpass Christian Shopping Diving, Snorkelling Accommodation TRANSPORT Garden SleepingS Hindu Camping Ferry Route & Terminal TrainT Line & Station Islamic Transpor Metro Line & Station Underground Rail Line Jewish Airport, Airfield Monorail & Stop TramT Line & Stop Monument Cycling, Bicycle Path Bus Route & Stop Cable Car, Funicular Museum, Gallery Border Crossing Place of Interest Bus Station AREA FEAATURES SnowS Skiing Ferry Swimming Pool GeneralG Transport Airport Ruin TrainT Station Beach Tomb Taxi Rank Building Winery,W Vineyard Pa Campus Zoo, Bird Sanctuary Parking CeC metery, Christian Sportsground Cemetery, Other Urban OTHER MAP SYMBOLS HYDROGRAPHY BOUNDARIES Information Geographic Bank, ATM Cave River, Creek International Embassy, Consulate Lighthouse Canal Hospital, Medical Lookout Water net Facilities Mountain, Volcano Swamp Post Office National Park Lake (Dry) Telephone Picnic Area

LONELY PLANET OFFICES Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: AUSTRALIA lonelyplanetimages.com. Head Office Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, [email protected] mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief USA extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 this publication may be sold or hired, without the %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555 written permission of the publisher. fax 510 893 8572 Printed by SNP Security Printing Ltd, Singapore. [email protected] Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are UK trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered 2nd fl, 186 City Road, London EC1V 2NT in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 other countries. [email protected] Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of ABN 36 005 607 983 any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. © Lonely Planet 2010 © photographers as indicated 2010 Cover photograph San Paolo, Lake Iseo, Kaos02/ Sime/4Corners Images. Internal title page photograph The Lecco end of Lake Como, Roberto Gerometta/Lonely Planet Images.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✆ buy books ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories See Directory chapter for more practical information ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right QUICK REFERENCE shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired HOW TO USE THIS BOOK TELEPHONE ✍ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ✏ get DVDs ☞ plan For details of map symbols, see the Map To dial listings in this book from outside the adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✈ book flights ✎ scam ➠ ✗ ✍ ✓ Legend on the last page of this book. country, dial your international access code, the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo % telephone h opening hours then the country code for or Switzerland, safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ p parking available a air-con available then the number (include the leading ‘0’ for find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the i internet available W wi-fi available Italy; leave it off for Switzerland). plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost ✎ ✄ ✉ ✩ ☺ ✍ s swimming pool m metro Italy Switzerland love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to apt apartments d double rooms Country code %39 %41 mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up dm dorm beds r rooms International %00 %00 ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield s single rooms ste suites access code ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ tr triple rooms meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear Ambulance %118 %144 the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change ➷ ❀ ☛ ➟ BUSINESS HOURS Police %112/113 %117 get challenged take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get Banks 8.30am-1.30pm & 3.30- Fire %115 %118 inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan 4.30pm Mon-Fri Directory %12 %18 11, 18 12 ✓ ✆ ☞ ✂ ✎ ➠ assistance adventures make lists listen up get lost wrestle monkeys scam the scammers Restaurants noon-3pm & 7.30pm- learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ ☎ ✆ ✈ ✎ midnight (kitchens usually PHRASES get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant close as early as 10pm)  $ ➷ Hello/(informal). Buongiorno/(Ciao). reviews book a bed spare some change get challenged take the plunge download Shops 9am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm (or guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat Goodbye/(informal). Arrivederci/(Ciao). ✄ ✉ ✩ ☺ ✍ ☎ 4-8pm) Mon-Sat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read hotel reviews get Please. Per favore. advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ Exceptions are noted in specifi c listings. Thank you. Grazie. check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road- EXCHANGE RATES CONVERSIONS trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, Prices in this book are quoted in euros (€) and 1in = 2.54cm boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged Swiss francs (Sfr) unless otherwise stated. 1cm = 0.39in ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ ✎ ✄ ✉ ✩ ☺ 1 euro (€) = 100 cents. For current exchange 1m = 3.3ft = 1.1yd find lost love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get rates see www.xe.com. 1ft = 0.3m DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make Australia A$1 €0.58 Sfr0.88 1km = 0.62 miles lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get 1 mile = 1.6km out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ Japan ¥100 €0.74 Sfr1.13 1kg = 2.2lb talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take ✍ ➎  New Zealand NZ$1 €0.46 Sfr0.70 1lb = 0.45kg better photos wear the right shoes, boots, sandals find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ 1g = 0.04oz Switzerland Sfr1 €0.66 meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money 1oz = 28g ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) UK UK£1 €1.16 Sfr1.77 1 imperial gallon = 4.55L ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ US US$1 €0.71 Sfr1.07 1L = 0.26 US gallons read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies 1 US gallon = 3.8L ✓ ✑ ☎ ✈ ✎ 1L = 0.22 imperial gallons recommend get the lowdown talk to travellers practise hippo safety cruise the LONELY PLANET INDEX savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides 1L petrol (gas) €1.06-1.20 1L bottled water €0.50-1 Slice of pizza €1.50-3 lonelyplanet.com Peroni beer €2.50-4 1ST EDITION Published Jan 2010 Almost too much information USA $21.99 UK £13.99

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