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3 Myaing l a N Ledaunggan 1 Naunggala 85 i n Hpa-An g Yangon I.A.(RGN) Khayan b Thaton (PAA) w e A Kawgon Yangon C Ein h Cave a Thanlyin Yinnyein u T Du n h Win Sein Road No. 6 g Thongwa a Dala 4 n Myawaddy ly 3 i Sadan Y Zin Kyaik n a YANGON n Cave 85 Kyondoe g o Paung Moke 4 R n Kyauktan Pagoda Ta Ma Kawkareik N Mawlamyine A Ywalut (MNU) Bilugyun Gulf of Kyaikmaraw N Marta Chaungzon 0 kilometers 50 b MON G an Mudon Kada Chaunghanakwa Kyaikhami 8 E Pagoda 1 Section in drive 4 Kale Main Sights Suggested Routes Setse Thanbyuzayat Sealed Road/Highway Beach Unsealed East to the Mon Heartland Yangon – Bago, Hpa-An & Mawlamyine Highlights Contents Page This road trip first goes toBago , site of the old About this Guide & Before You Arrive & Drive 2 imperial capital of Hanthawaddy. It then crosses the Planning Your Drive & Roads in Myanmar Sittaung River delta before reaching the side road Section 1: Yangon–Bago (Yangon-Mandalay north to Kyaiktiyo, site of the Golden Rock. 3 Highway) & Bago overnight (± 75 kms) At the historically old town of Thaton, the drive diverts east from the main route south, entering a Section 2: Bago–Thaton (± 157 kms) 4 magical landscape of karsts surmounted by pagodas (Mawlamyaing Road/NH8/AH1); Kyaiktiyo around the Thanlyin River near Hpa-An. (Golden Rock) & overnight; Thaton & overnight A tree-lined road from Hpa-An goes to Mawlamy- Section 3: Thaton–Hpa-An (± 50 kms); 6 ine, a pleasant, not-to-large city with hilltop payas and Hpa-An & overnight; Around Hpa-An historical diversity on the delta of the Thanlyin River. Section 4: Hpa-An–Mawlamyine (± 60 kms) ; 7 Destinations south include Thanbyuzayat, former Mawlamyine & overnight; Around Mawlamyine; terminus of the Death Railway, and Setse Beach. South from~ (NH8); North from~ (NH8) Day 2: Kyaiktiyo morning and drive to Hpa-An, About this Guide visiting Kawgon Cave & Kyauk Tan Pagoda; overnight in Hpa-An This guide is designed to make self-drive touring in Day 3: Sadan Cave and drive to Mawlamyine; over- Myanmar easier and must be used together with an night in Mawlamyine online navigation application—though we recom- Day 4: Morning in Mawlamyine & return to Yangon mend Google Maps® in general (especially satellite view), Maps.me using OpenStreetMap data may at Comfortable Itinerary (7-8 days, 6-7 nights) ® times be better. This guide uses Google Maps spell- Both Hpa-An and Mawlamyine are worth at least ing conventions for place names and distances, but two nights each for one full day of sightseeing. Also actual distances from those shown in this guide may consider staying overnight in Bago, Kyaiktiyo (Gold- vary (±) by 2.5kms depending on starting point. en Rock), if not a couple of nights on Setse Beach. Tip: Google Maps is not always as up-to-date as their satellite imagery. Revert to the satellite view for road networks when Driving in Myanmar such is missing from maps, or try Maps.me. Use media such as Lonely Planet’s Myanmar guide or All Yomacarshare rental vehicles are left-hand drive Travelfish.org, or hire a guide (your hotel will be able (right -hand shift) for driving on the right in Myanmar. to arrange this) for detailed information—this guide Traffic Speeds are relatively slow. Myanmar drivers only lists sights and suggests a few restaurants and are usually polite and often give way, especially hotels (upscale USD75+/mid-range USD30–60+ outside of major cities like Yangon and Mandalay. Before You Arrive & Drive Due to old policy, more than 80 percent of vehicles are right-hand drive vehicles. This may contribute to Valid Driver’s License uncertainty and greater caution. Approach intersec- You cannot legally drive in Myanmar without a valid tions and circles cautiously and you will get through. international driver’s permit or ASEAN driver’s license. Lane discipline approaching intersections is good. Smart Phone and Navigation Application Drivers do not enter empty left-turn lanes and then Your smart phone should be preloaded with Google cut back in—they may pass on the inside (right side)! ® Maps or other navigation applications. Sealed main roads are generally good, but uneven Myanmar Sim Card road surfaces and abrupt gradient changes are com- Getting a Myanmar sim card on arrival (essential for mon—never drive faster than the speed limit of 100 Google Maps®) is recommended— MPT coverage is kph! Narrow one-lane provincial highways require good. Wifi in mid-range hotels is often inoperable. extra care; drivers must slow and put offside wheels Removable Device Holder on the hard shoulder to pass oncoming traffic! (Important!) Bring a detachable holder suitable to Tolls are common on Myanmar’s roads and usually attach your navigation device to the windscreen for vary from MMK 200–1000+. Keep plenty of small ease of vision and minimal distraction from the road. notes of Myanmar currency to hand in your vehicle. Night Driving should be avoided since unlit vehi- Planning Your Drive cles and other hazards raise the accident risk factor. Distances (± 2.5 kms) between main destinations: Gas Stations: Please only top up your tank at new gas stations near large towns. These are less likely to Yangon – Hpa-An: 290 kms serve contaminated fuel from old storage tanks that Hpa-An – Mawlamyine: 60 kms can lead to a breakdown of your vehicle! Mawlamyine – Setse Beach: 80 kms Mawlamyine – Yangon Int. Airport (RGN) 295 kms Hotline - 09 966235338 (09 YOMAFLEET) Long weekend ex Yangon (3 Days, 2 Nights): Contact: [email protected] Drive directly to either Hpa-An or Mawlamyine (± 6 Further information: yomacarshare.com hours), tour on day 2 and return to Yangon on day 3. Short Itinerary (4 Days, 3 Nights) Day 1: Yangon, Bago and overnight at Kin Pun Sakhan Village, Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) Mon Heartland 2 Section 1 Alternative Slow Route to Bago (± 169 kms) Yangon Int. Airport – Bago (± 75 kms) The first part of this route can be a return day-trip From Yangon International Airport, follow the ex Yangon. It crosses the eastern suburbs of Yangon divided Yangon–Mandalay Highway north to Bago and the Bago River, passing Thanlyin and the (historically known as Pegu—distances from RGN) Kyaik Khauk Paya, to end at the Kyauktan Market and the “midstream” Kyauktan Pagoda. 00 kms: Yangon International Airport (RGN) The longer road trip follows Road No. 6 through ± 22 kms: Taukkyan War Cemetery (Htauk Kyant) increasingly rural country, offering a glimpse of contains the graves of 6374 servicemen of the rustic life in the fertile delta between the Bago and Western Alliance who died in the Second World Sittaung Rivers. Plan to stay overnight in Bago or War, and commemorates 27,000 servicemen who possibly Kyaiktiyo if taking this route. died in other campaigns in the country (a cemetery plan can be downloaded from cwgc.org). Yangon International Airport to Kyauktan via Wai Zar Yan Ta Rd & Kyaik Khauk Pagoda Road ± 27 kms: Ah Myan Lan (± 46 kms from Yangon Int. Airport) The Yangon–Mandalay Expressway starts here. ± 6 kms: Intersection: Gan Da Mar Rd. Turn east for Okkala Golf Resort ± 28 kms: Hlegu Tollgate This is the first of several tollgates on this drive. ± 13.5 kms: Intersection: Have MMK 1,000 bills and smaller notes handy! Turn east for Tharkayta Crocodile Farm (6–18hrs). ± 32 kms: Hlegu Town ± 17 kms: Intersecton with Yadanar Rd. Turn east for National Races Village (09–17:30hrs) ± 59 kms: Shwe Pyi Resort (& Restaurant) A lakeside resort ±17 kms south of Bago ± 21 kms: Intersection. Turn south for Thanlyin, site of the historical port of Syriam ± 62 kms: Han Thar Gardens Hotel & Restaurant ± 24.5 kms: Thanlyin Golf Club Resort & Golf Course on the west side of highway ± 27.5 kms: Kyaik Khauk Paya (pagoda) ± 74 kms: Kyaik Pun Pagoda (Bago) ± 45.5 kms: Kyauktan Market Turn west to the southernmost of the main his- & ferry to the Kyauktan Pagoda on an islet. torical sites in Bago. Four colossal Buddha images seated back-to-back face the cardinal directions. Road No. 6 & Bago – Khayan – Thongwa Road (± 127 kms from Kyauktan) Tip: Foreigners must pay an inclusive MMK 10,000 fee to visit any of Bago’s archaeological and religious sites per From Kyauktan, the route passes through small day. To avoid a repeat payment, see all sites in one day. towns and villages on a narrow road between Thongwa and Thanatpin. Single lane bridges with ± 76 kms: Shwe Thar Lyaung Pagoda Rd. (Bago) abrupt ramps across waterways are frequent. This road goes west to several historical Buddhist ± 41 kms (from Kyauktan): Thongwa sites including the Maha Kalyani Labhasima, (59kms direct from Yangon Int. Airport) where King Dammazedi (r. 1472–1492) placed 10 ± 59 kms: Khayan stone inscriptions, the huge Shwe Thar Lyaung reclining Buddha image and the Mahazedi Pagoda. ± 73.5 kms: Thet Ka La ± 81 kms: Ohn Hne Bago ± 95 kms: Ka Mar Se ± 104 kms: Thanatpin The main sights east of the river (see above for places west of the river) are the Kanbawzathadi ± 127 kms: Bago Golden Palace (09–16:30hrs) and the Bee Throne Hall in the palace grounds. (cont. page 4) Mon Heartland 3 These two magnificent reconstructions leave no doubt as to how the builders thought one of Myanmar’s Kyaiktiyo—The Golden Rock great kings (Bayint Naung r. 1551–1581) perceived his (± 13 kms from Kyaikto) majesty. The contemporary Archaeological Muse- One of Myanmar’s most significant pilgrimage sites, um is also in the palace grounds. the Golden Rock should not be missed. To reach it, Three blocks north of the palace is the Shwemaw- drive to Kin Pun Sakhan Village, park securely daw Pagoda. At more than 114m in height it is the (large compounds offer pay parking) and take the highest paya in Myanmar (according to the “Guide to obligatory ±45 min open-sided truck ride (06–18hrs) Bago,” a small printed guide on sale for MMK 5,000 with other visitors up a tortuous ±13 kilometer-road in the Bee Throne Hall and elsewhere). To its east is to the top (or start of cable car). The site (access on the Hintha Gon Paya. foot only—sedan chairs lifted by porters are avail- Overnight in Bago able) extends almost a kilometer along a ridgeline; the Golden Rock is at the highest point (±1080m). To eat, try the Kyaw Swa Restaurant, Dagon Restaurant & Bar & BBQ (Ngwe Taung), the Shwe Tip: Pay extra and book a few trucks in advance to get one Li or the Hanthawaddy Restaurant. The Kanbawza of six seats in the driver’s air-con cab for the journey up the Hinthar Hotel seems the best of the mid-range hotels mountain—if sitting in the open back and prone to motion in Bago. An alternative is to drive ± 33 kms north from sickness, sit at the end of a row and avoid the rows toward the Bago on NH1 to the Moe Yun Gyi Wetland Resort. back of the truck. Kyaiktiyo is a fascinating pastiche of pilgrim’s devotions and Buddhist commercialism; hours can Section 2 be spent wandering between pagodas and along Bago – Kyaikto – Thaton (± 157 kms) alleyways lined with often unusual souvenir stalls— allow half a day minimum including the truck rides From Bago, drive north on the Yangon-Mandalay up and down. Highway to the intersection with NH8 at Hpa Yar Overnight in Kyaiktiyo Gyi. Turn east on NH8, stopping overnight in the Many pilgrims stay at hotels on the hilltop in order to Kyaikto area if planning to visit the Golden Rock, or participate in rituals that take place all hours of the in Thaton for an easy day’s driving. night. Mountain Top Hotel offers rooms (some with 00 kms: Junction of NH1 & Shwe Thar Lyaung Pagoda Rd. dawn views over the hills east) that are better than the generally low quality at (most) other hotels on the ridge. ± 18 kms: Hpa Yar Gyi Intersection Turn east (right) on NH8. Staying in one of the resorts near Kin Pun Sakhan is much better value for money, especially if making a ± 35 kms: Waw Town half-day visit to the Golden Rock. Recommended are ± 62 kms: Sittaung Bridge (via Mawlamyaing Rd.) the Thuwanna Bomi Mountain View Hotel (11 Piers of the former rail bridge blown up in World kms from Kin Pun Sakhan) and the Golden Sunrise War II in the “Sittang Bridge Disaster” (see Wiki- Hotel (1 km from Kin Pun Sakhan). pedia) can be seen just to the south. Tip: Book in advance for all hotels near Kyaiktiyo!

± 81 kms: Adventure Land (06–18hrs) Zipline, rock climbing & bungy jumping etc. and ± 119 kms: Bilin Town the Sein Lei Tin Resort by a lake at back ± 139 kms: Theinzeik ± 83 kms: Bellay Restaurant (09–16hrs) The market is known as a place to buy durian fruit. Choose from pots of Myanmar curries in the back of the restaurant and wait at a table for the curries ± 157 kms: Thaton you chose to arrive with side dishes of condiments NH8 continues south to Mawlamyine (±69 kms– as is the custom in Myanmar curry restaurants. section 4) and AH1/NH85 goes east to Hpa-An (±51 kms–section 3) from a junction ± 300m ± 90 kms: Kyaikto Town south of the clock tower circle. ± 91 kms: Kyaiktiyo Intersection Turn northwest here to visit the Golden Rock. Mon Heartland 4 Thaton ± 49 kms: Kyautt Ka Latt Pagoda (±12 kms from Hpa-An) This small, very distinc- A quiet market town, Thaton was the site of a Mon tive karst topped with zedis protrudes from a land- capital around the 10th century, but almost nothing of scaped lake; it is one of Hpa-An’s signature sights the old ruins appears to remain visible today. The lane and best seen early morning or late afternoon. past the Suvarnabhumi Hotel leads to a narrow concrete lane that climbs up to the Mya Tha Bake Pagoda, one of many pagodas on top of hills east of the Mawlamyaing Road; these provide fine viewpoints Hpa-An over the delta country to the west. Overnight in Thaton Located on the east bank of the Thanlyin (Thanlwin) River, Kayin State’s capital has a distinctive feel due The mid-range Suvarnabhumi Hotel (Thuwun- to its Kayin and Karen people; it is a popular back- nabhumi) is good and within walking distance of the packer destination. Hpa-An Market lies in the Sithu Tun Restaurant. The Two Lakes Resort (± streets to the north of the “Main Road” (east to 3kms on NH85 to Hpa-An) is an alternative. Ein-Du, Kawkareik and Myawaddy), mainly along Thit Sar Street, but also along Myae Tadar Street. Other places to visit include the Shwe Yin Myaw Pagoda, where a good sunset viewing platform Section 3 overlooks the river. Thaton – Hpa-An (± 51 kms) Tip: park at the north end of Kan Nar Street and watch the riverside volleyball late afternoon before walking through the pagoda’s southern extension to the platform for sunset. 00 kms: Thaton Clock Tower circle ± 300m south Highway 8: T-junction AH1/NH85 Overnight in Hpa-An Turn east (left) for Hpa-An & Myawaddy Do not miss the chance to eat Myanmar curry at the San Ma Tau (Myanmar) Restaurant; the curries you ± 20 kms: Bayin Nyi Cave (laterite road 800m north) select from large pots at front will be joined by more Compared with other cave sites nearer Hpa-An, than the usual number of savory side delicacies. The this one is as memorable for its bluish pond as for Shwe Myint Moe Restaurant also offers good the many Buddha images in the cave interior. Myanmar curries. The Khit Thit and Lucky 1 are Tip: Long, deep caves filled with Buddha images in Myanmar good for meals later in the evening. are usually well lit—a donation helps pay for electricity. How- Tip: It is best to go to restaurants in Myanmar’s towns by 8 ever, make sure you have a torch, if only a small one, should p.m. Many do not stay open long after 9 p.m. the lights go out. Pha-An’s Night Market on the northwest corner of ± 41 kms: Kawgon Cave (±13kms from Hpa-An) Kan Thar Yar Lake appeals to local folk. For a place (Turn south and drive ±3.5kms on a sealed and to take young children, consider driving south ±11 then laterite road). The cave has origins dating kms to the Chitthu Myaing Park, an illuminated back to the 7th century and should not be missed. garden lit. Inflatable bouncers and other attractions Most impressive are the thousands of votive clay will please children, and there is a restaurant at back. Buddha images plastered over large areas of rock Far in a way the nicest resort in Hpa-An is the luxury overhang. To the left of the entrance, flights of Hpa-An Lodge, which lies in the shadow of Zwega- steps climb to a viewpoint over the Thanlyin River bin Mountain. From the lodge, downtown Hpa-An is and beyond to the Zwegabin karst range. an easy (±10 km) drive and most of the main sights A west turn 1km+ north on the road back from around Hpa-An are that much closer. The Hpa-An Kawgon (2km+ from the highway) goes to Ya Hotel Gabbana and the Hotel Than Lwin Para- Thae Pyan Cave, a cave with zedis and Buddha dise are mid-range hotels closer to town. images. ± 43/43.5 kms: junction. Hpa-An–Mawlamyine Rd. Turn north (left) for Hpa-An (± 7 kms). Mon Heartland 5 Around Hpa-An From the lake, many visitors pay to return by boat paddled by local folk through a flooded cave and a With several karsts topped by zedis in plain sight of channel between rice paddy to the start of a short, Hpa-An, climbing one of them for the view seems a open-air trail back to near the main cave entrance. good thing to do. The closest is Hpan Pu, which is Tip: take your shoes, especially if planning to return by boat. reached by taking a boat from the jetty next to the Directions to Sadan Cave: small English signs to Shwe Yin Myaw Pagoda, crossing the Thanlyin, walk- Saddan Cave (as spelt on signs) are placed at the start ing through a village and then up to the temple. and junctions of unsealed access roads from: The Lumbini Buddha Garden ± ( 10 kms) contains 1) ± 4.5 kms south of the Zwegabin junction more than 1120 identical, larger than life, seated (near the Lumbini Garden) south turn (± 7 kms Buddha images. It is also the beginning of the longer but only marginally less steep climb up the Zwegabin 2) ± 4kms south of Ein Du on the Ein Du-Maw- (Zwe Ka Bin) than from the east. This path passes a lamyine Road, west turn (± 5 kms, best approach) pagoda around a quarter of the way up. 3) ± 21.5 kms south on Hpa-An–Mawlamyine Taung Wine Pagoda (± 15kms—approach via Road, east turn (± 7.5 kms) laterite road from Taung Ka Lay): this is a more recently developed hilltop pagoda site that requires another hot climb up! Kaw Ka Thaung Cave (± 11kms, 500m from Section 4 NH85) is a Buddha cave site with a relic seen Hpa-An – Mawlamyine (± 61 kms) through a magnifying glass. The site is small in comparison to either the Kawgon (Kaw Gun, ± 13kms) or Ya Thae Pyan Cave (± 14kms)—see Leave Hpa-An on Kan Thar Road (NH85). The above—but the roads past the cave lead to a second route follows the tree-lined Hpa-An–Mawlamyine site and villages amid a pastoral landscape. road south. 00 kms: Hpa-An Clocktower Zwegabin ± 7 kms: N85 Road junctions Zwegabin (±11 kms to the eastern approach) is the West to Thaton and Yangon highest of the karsts topped by a Buddhist pilgrim- ± 9.5 kms: Road Junction age site. It presents a physical challenge since to East to Kyauk Ka Latt Pagoda, Zwegabin Junc- reach it requires climbing more than 3300 steps from tion and N85 to Myawaddy ±35m to more than 710m in elevation and will take upwards of two hours (less if fit). Apart from the ± 21.5 kms: Saddan Cave benefit of physical exercise, the rewards at top are Unsealed access road east (no. 3 above) meeting other pilgrims who have come to revere the Buddha hair in the paya, the spectacular views, cooler ± 38.5 kms: Road junction (near Zar Ta Pyin) air and encounters with monkeys depending on The route joins the Ein Du–Mawlamyine Road. season. Begin the climb well before dawn to enjoy ± 43 kms: Kha Yone Cave (south turn 600m) the sunrise and avoid the heat of the day. Go straight to the cave—the sealed lane lined with Tip: If planning to climb karsts, please have a sarong or statues of monks goes west to a pagoda with a longyi (for changing), a change of clothes and a towel to cover second, smaller Buddha cave. your car seat. Taking water is a must, especially for ascending Zwegabin. ± 54 kms: Traffic circle Turn north and follow the route northwest to Strand Road.

Sadan Cave (Saddan) is the most spectacular Bud- ± 61 kms: Strand Road, Mawlamyine dha cave in the area, both for its Buddha images and its length. The first cave emerges at a lake—a second long cave follows from near the end of the first. Mon Heartland 6 At least two villages on Bilugyun are known for their Mawlamyine local products: Mudu (±15kms) for its once thriving production of slates that were used by all Myanmar Mawlamyine is easy to drive around, though to see schoolchildren in former times (only two manufac- the central market area it is best to park close by and turers now operate); Ywalut (±18kms) is known for go on foot. The most convenient hotels and restau- its wooden tobacco pipes and other carved wood rants are on Strand Road, the river frontage road products (look for manufacturers in the southwest overlooking the inland branch of the Thanlyin delta part of the village). that creates Bilugyun (Bilu Island). The city has three areas of ethnically derived sights. Dominating the ridge overlooking the town and not South from Mawlamyine to be missed, not least because of good views east and west, is the Kyeik Than Lan Pagoda; also be South from Mawlamyine, NH8 passes through sure to visit the Mahamuni Pagoda with its name- plantation country. South of Mudon, a few bends sake Buddha image to the north. precede narrow bridges—approach with caution! Visiting other pagodas along a lane that follows the 00 kms: Mawrawaddy Pk (Baho St), Mawlamyine ridge to the south ending at the U Zina Pagoda is conveniently done by car. Of interest may be the ± 22 kms: Win Sein Taw Ra Cotton Thread Buddha image in Taung Pauk (Win Sein Taw Ya, 1.5kms east from highway at Monastery and the Hindu temple nearby. entrance marked by two huge silver birds). Myan-

th mar visitors may first pay respect to the embalmed Christian churches and 19-20 century architec- corpse of the site’s founding sayadaw in a hall by ture—a heritage from Myanmar’s colonial past—are the car park. Steps lead up to a truly vast reclining found along Upper Main Road and Baho Street, Buddha image, inside of which are three floors of especially in the vicinity of Mawrawaddy Park. The Buddhist-themed sculptures. Mon Cultural Museum on Baho Street is also worth a visit (09:30–16:30 clsd Mons) ± 28.5 kms: Mudon Town Tip: ask for a portable light at the museum ticket counter. ± 40 kms: Khat Ya Khat Yu Pagoda The river frontage area around the market seems pre- Colossal seated Buddha Image (±300m east) dominantly Muslim, whose religion first came with traders. Two mosques, the main market and trading ± 64.5 kms: Thanbyuzayat Circle houses are on Lower Main Road. Turn west at the circle for the War Cemetery, Kyaikkhami Pagoda & Setse Beach. Go south for Overnight in Mawlamyine the Death Railway Museum. Whether at the Bone Gyi Restaurant, places by the Myoma Jetty, the Nadi Hlaing Restaurant or at the Night Market further south, Strand Road is the first Thanbyuzayat place to look for restaurants. For rooms, the upscale Located on a crossroads, Thanbyuzayat is a small Mawlamyine Strand Hotel offers grand style, while market town. both the nearby Attran Hotel (its restaurant is said Continue south 1.5kms on NH8 to visit the Death to be good) and the Ngwe Moe Hotel have good Railway Museum. Located at the junction of the rooms at mid-range prices. line to Ye and the remains of the death track—the latter diverges from the Ye line ± 500m south from Around Mawlamyine the station before disappearing in undergrowth next to a plantation—the museum site and grounds may Local sights southeast of town include Kandawgyi be more interesting than the contents within the Lake (± 12kms), a picnic spot, and Kyaikmaraw museum building itself. Pagoda (Kyaikmaraw Buddha Statue, ± 21kms). 00 kms: turn west (right) at the traffic circle for A bridge (opened 2017) connects Bilugyun (Bilu Kyaikkhami Pagoda and Setse Beach. Island) to the mainland. Though its name trans- lates as Ogre Island, the island has the feel of an unhurried retreat. Mon Heartland 7 West from Thanbyuzayat

± 1 km: Thanbyuzayat War Cemetery (07–17hrs) The cemetery commemorates 3770 Australian, British, Canadian, Dutch, Ghurkha, Sikh and other lives that ended while building the Death Railway. ± 8 kms: Traffic circle (Hongsa Jacjai) Turn north for Kyaikkhami Pagoda (± 16kms). Set on pillars over rocks and mudflats among sparse mangroves by the sea, the pagoda contains a splendid array of gilt Buddha images surmounted by a lone image seated beneath a Naga. Visitors coming at high tide may witness waves washing inside the pagoda’s forecourt, an unfortunate augury for the site. Kyaikkhami village, known as Amh- erst in British colonial times, was the point from which Christianity first spread into Myanmar. Turn south for Setse Beach (± 7 kms). Setse Beach Setse beach is a wide, 5-kilometer-long stretch of brown sand—perfect for running around, playing with tubes and other beach activities. The beach does not have the mudflats along the foreshore that are common to beaches closer to the deltas to the north. Overnight on Setse Beach Restaurants, local lodges and other buildings occupy a casuarina grove backing part of the beach. At least one restaurant—the Myanmar Restaurant—has an English menu. For upscale rooms, go to 21 Paradise Hotel, but for mid-range prices and a large pool, try the Set Sae Hotel. Mawlamyine – Thaton (± 66 kms) 00 kms: Mawrawaddy Pk (Baho St), Mawlamyine

± 38 kms: Zin Kyaik Waterfall (east turn 1km)

± 40 kms: Hilltop pagodas in the Zin Kyaik area (See Google satellite imagery for possible sealed/ unsealed routes.)

± 66.5 kms: Thaton Tip: See sections 2 & 1 in reverse order for the return route Hotline - 09 966235338 (09 YOMAFLEET) north via the Mawlamyaing Road to Bago and Yangon. Contact: [email protected] Further information: yomacarshare.com Happy & safe driving!