Rokua Nature Trail

On the Emperor’s Tour Metsähallitus – Rokuan luontorastit

Sisällys Map 3 Smells 10 Rokua 4 Shadow pantomime 10 Rokua formation 4 Water moves sand 10 Flora and fauna 5 Finding water with a divining rod 10 Fore sts 5 Cone man or cone woman 11 Marshes and shores 6 If I were a tree 11 Fauna 6 Facing a tree 11 Rokua National Park 7 Finding traces of frost damage 11 Human history 8 Burn scars 11 History of population settlement 8 Lichen on the trunks 12 The Emperor’s Road 8 Measuring tree height 12 Tar burning 8 The age of a tree 12 Trails 9 The signifi cance of colours 12 The Emperor’s Tour 9 Food chain 12 Ski tracks 9 Word game 13 Tales 9 Identifying the object 13 Tar burners 9 Feeling the object 13 Get up and climb the tree 9 Snake run 13 Black-throated diver – a bird in a hurry 10 ”The ship has been loaded” 13 Water gnome 10 Water contest 13 Exercises and games 10 Signposts 14 Sound laboratory 10 References 17

This material has been produced by Metsähallitus Ostrobothnia Natural Heritage Services

Text: Vesa Krökki, Anu Hilli Translation: Janne-Pekka Rissanen Layout: Jaana Hietala Illustrations: Juha Ilkka, Antti Rönkä, Simo Yli-Lonttinen

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to U Rokua tajärvi, Oulu nature trail

Border of the national park Border of the national park extension Pitkämäki Road Trail Spa and Tulijärvi Emperor’s tour Wellness Hotel Information Lianjärvi Tracking the black woodpecker Parking Forest For the disabled Kirvesjärvi Underwater world birds Ahveroinen Shelter cabin Syväjärvi Lappish kota hut Hiking trail Campfire site Tent site Tar pit

TRAVEL CENTRE Nature trail signpost SUPPA Forest © Metsähallitus 2006 life Vaulujärvi © Maanmittauslaitos 1/MYY/04 Saarinen Rokua YMCA Centre Hotel Rokuanhovi Salminen Vauluvaara Rokuanvaara

Traces of Syvyydenkaivo the Ice Age

Siirasvaarat Koivuvaara

Keisarintie Pookivaara Fireman’s nightmare Haimakaisenmonttu

Hätäjärvi A moment for silence Pitkäjärvi Rokua National Park

Spirits, sauna and tar

Maitolamminkangas Rokuanjärvi

0 500 1000 m

8794 to Vaala, Kajaani

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Rokua Rokuanvaara is situated in the municipalities of Uta- Lichen-rich pine forests, clear-water ponds and järvi, Muhos, and Vaala near the provincial border of steep kettle holes are characteristic of Rokua. The Northern Ostrobothnia and Kainuu. beautiful landscape allows you to enjoy the peace and atmosphere of the wilderness, and yet is close to ame- nities.

Rokua formation Finland has been covered with an ice sheet numero- Rokuanvaara is clearly distinct from the surroun- us times. The ice and melting waters have carved up ding areas, most of which is fl at, marshy land. With the terrain. The latest ice age which fi nished about 194 metres (636 ft) Pookivaara, the highest esker in 10,000 years ago levelled down and rounded the ter- the area, has its summit at about 70 metres (230 ft) rain. Till, the most common Finnish soil type emer- higher up than the surrounding areas. Kettle holes, ged from rock material which was loosened, crushed steep hollows in eskers are characteristic of the Ro- and ground by the ice. kua landscape. They emerged when large lumps of ice buried in the sand, melted down. Typically, the kettle holes are long and narrow, and their depth may vary from just a couple of metres to as much as 50 m (about 150 ft). The deepest kettle holes can be found at the Pookivaara area, and often there is a pond or a lake at the bottom, examples of which are Pitkäjärvi, Hätä- järvi, Saarinen and Kiviahveroinen to name a few. The Finnish drift sand formations emerged soon after the withdrawal of the ice sheet approximately 10,000 to 9,000 years ago. The dunes ceased to move when covered with vegetation. Also known as fossi- lised dunes, they occur in connection with glacifl uvial formations. Being about 18 km (11 miles) long and 1.5 to 5 km (1 to 3 miles) wide the Rokua dune fi eld is one of the best-known inland dune formations in Finland. The dunes have been shaped by westerly and north-westerly winds and they are, although forested over the years, still quite clearly visible. During the last Ice Age the land was compressed Of the rock foundation, as much as 97 % is cove- by a 1.5 km (4,300 ft) ice sheet. After the Ice Age was red with till. The glacial melting waters wore out the over, most of the area was still under water, either as terrain by leaving behind glaciated rocks, and groo- part of the various phases of the Baltic Sea basin or un- ves and furrows on its surface, and small canyons and der glacial lakes. Dry land was found only in highest stream beds on Lappish mountains. Ground layers elevations. In Finland, the land is still rising, which originating from melting waters are, for example, es- means that it is trying to return to the elevation where kers, deltas, sandurs, and edge formations. The uni- it was before the Ice Age. The land rise is still clearly que landscape in Rokua reached its current shape at distinct along the shores of the Gulf of Bothnia. the stage when the ice sheet was melting transporting, The Rokua area was freed from ice about 9,000 yea- sorting and piling up ground material. rs ago. At that time the summit of Rokuanvaara rose Rokuanvaara is a 20 km (12 miles) long and 5 km from the sea as an island. Rokua became part of the (3 miles) wide formation made up of eskers and du- mainland about 7,000 years ago when the waterline nes. The eskers emerged from soil material left in the withdrew as a result of land rise. There are still some tunnels inside the ice sheet or from the material piled remains of sea, ancient shores and banks. Similar for- up at the edges of glacial rivers. The direction of eskers mations can be found all over Finland. The banks at thus depicts the direction of the ice sheet’s withdra- different heights of the slopes of Rokuanvaara tell us wal. the history of the Baltic Sea shores phase by phase.

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Flora and fauna The nature is characteristically barren. As most of the On the dry slopes you may be able to spot a rare soil is nothing but sand, water quickly penetrates deep combination of lichen growing with lilies-of-the-val- to the ground out of the reach of vegetation, and in ley (Convallaria majalis). Of the latter, solomon’s-seal terms of growth its nutrient level is low. (Polygonatum odoratum) is preserved and endange- The fl ora consists of species that have adjusted to red. Plants of the clubmoss family, such as ground endure draught and low nutrition. The fl ora consists pine (Diphasiastrum complanatum) and stiff club- largely of forest vegetation, and to some extent of moss (Lycopodium annotinum), and various grasses marsh and shoreline vegetation. There are also small are typical plants on the ground layer in barren and pockets of treeless moors. dry areas. The ground layer consists of lichens and mosses. Forests Together with cetraria lichen and island cetraria lichen The Rokua area is part of the mid-boreal Ostroboth- nia-Kainuu forest zone. Almost the entire area of the Rokua National Park is covered with dry lichen-rich forests on a sand bed. Dry forests with black crowber- ry and heather type of vegetation are also common. Some patches of damper forest types occur only at ponds. The dominant tree is (Scotch) pine (Pinus sylvest- ris), but white and silver birches (Betula pubescens and pendula), aspen (Populus tremula), grey and black alder (Alnus incana and glutinosa), as well as rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) are also found in the approximity of lakes and ponds.

Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis) (Cetraria ericetorum and islandica) reindeer lichen and greygreen reindeer lichen (Cladina arbuscula and rangiferina) are quite common. Populations of star reindeer lichen (Cladina stellaris) are best preserved in the National Park area. ”Snow lichen” (Cetraria niva- lis) and cup lichen (Cladonia sp.) are also common. Of the mosses, the most common species are Schreber’s big red stem moss (Pleurozium schreberi) splendid feather moss (Hylocomium splendens), and various types of polytrichum moss (Polytrichum sp.) and dicranum moss (Dicranum sp.). Rokua serves as a good example of a lichen-covered dry soil that grows intact outside the reindeer management area that is situated further north. Black crowberry (Empetrum nigrum) Forest fi res have played a signifi cant role in forest formation, since dry forests catch fi re very easily. On The shrub layer is almost entirely missing. The average the trees are 100 to 150 years old. Approxi- fi eld layer typically grows dwarf shrubs, such as heat- mately 120 years ago one fi re destroyed almost all her (Calluna vulgaris), black crowberry (Empetrum forests in the Rokuanvaara area. Since then the trees nigrum), and lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea). have been growing undisturbed, so the oldest forest in Whortleberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), common bear- Rokua is found in this area. Outside the National Park berry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), and bog blueberry on the western slopes of Rokuanvaara there are still (Vaccinium uliginosum) are found in damper areas. traces of a forest fi re that took place in 1948.

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Marshes and shores Fauna The Finnish soil turns into a marsh in the following Due to the barren vegetation in Rokua, not many ty- situations: when land rises from the sea, when mineral pes of fauna are found in the area. The most common soil, that is forests dampen, and when water systems mammals to be found are a brown squirrel (Sciurus become closed through increased vegetation. There are vulgaris) or a hare (Lepus timidus). Typical but rarely three main types of marsh: damp woodland, forested seen small mammals in the area are stoat (Mustela er- and open swamps. Open swamps are, again, divided minea) and pine marten (Martes martes). Elk (Alces into subtypes on the basis of their nutrient level. In alces) and red fox (Vulpes vulpes) may move into the Rokua the marshes are similar to those open swamps area, but you are not very likely to come across one. typically found in Ostrobothnia and Kainuu. The birdlife is more versatile than the mammals Marsh vegetation in Rokua consists of the types of found in the area. Birds typically found in barren fo- species that thrive in barren conditions in forested and rests, such as redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus), tree open swamps. Swamps are found as small patches in pipit (Anthus trivialis), spotted fl ycatcher (Muscicapa kettle holes and along the shores of ponds. Forested striata) and crossbills (Loxia curvirosta and pytyopsit- swamps grow pine and birch, and the fi eld layer is tacus), are found here, too. The redstart is especially abundant with sedge (Carex sp.), bog blueberry (Vac- abundant, as it thrives in sunny pine forests. The wil- cinium uliginosum), leather leaf (Chamaedaphne ca- low warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus), common all over lyculata), and dwarf birch (Betula nana). the country, is another species found in Rokua in gre- at number. Capercaillies (Tetrao urogallus) here may easily fi nd their feeding pines, or ravens the peaceful habitat they desire. In the winter fewer birds remain in the area. Such species as tits (Paridae), woodpecker

Sphagnum moss (Sphagnum sp.)

The ground layer is composed of various types of moss (Sphagnum sp). The low-nutrient type of open swamps are mostly treeless, but dwarf pines and (Nor- way) spruces (Picea abies) occur occasionally. This Capercaillie male and female (Tetrao urogallus) type of swamp is often very wet. The common spe- cies of grasses are bogbean (Menyanthes trifoliata), (Dendrocopus major), and black woodpecker (Dryo- cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus), marsh horsetail copus martius) and fowl (Galliformes) thrive here in (Equisetum palustre), and marsh cinquefoil (Potentil- the winter, too. la palustris). The habitat around lakes and ponds in Rokua is bar- Waterside vegetation is composed of bands of sedge ren by nature. The black-throated diver (Gavia artica) surrounding lakesides and ponds. Some ponds have can be spotted, for example, at Rokuanjärvi or Saari- a tree stand that is richer in variety. On the shores of nen lakes. Being an endangered species it is currently Kirvesjärvi lake, for example, both speckled and black under protection. Other divers and grebes found in alder are found. Saarinen lake has silver birches, wil- the area, yet few in number, are red-necked grebe (Po- lows (Salix sp.), and aspen on its shores. The vegetati- diceps grisegena), crested grebe (Podiceps cristatus). on on treeless moors consists mainly of moss, lichen, Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) and common sandpi- dwarf shrubs, and grasses. Moors are mostly natural per (Actitis hypoleuca) are the plovers found in the formations. On the dunes they are typically rich in area. At the largest lakes in the area gulls outnumber lichen. Populations of lilies of the valley are also found other species both in variety and in number. Various on moors with a mixture of grasses and lichen. ducks are found in several lakes and ponds. Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula), goosander (Mergus merganser), and teal (Anas crecca) are the ducks most common in number in the area.

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Rokua National Park National parks are nature preserves that are designed Rokua National Park was founded in 1956 and de- to function as public attractions, serving as samples of signed to preserve the natural lichen-rich pine forests the most valuable and most characteristic features of and the unique geological features of the Rokua for- Finnish nature. National parks display unique natural mation. Preservation also aims at ensuring the prere- phenomena, such as rapids, canyons, and esker for- quisites for climax stage (old forest) research. mations. Such beautiful sceneries and vantage points The national park is situated at the southern edge have also been preserved. of the esker formation where there are a great number In Finland there are 35 national parks and on top of marshes, dunes, and banks as well as kettle holes of that there are other nature preserves, such as wil- with clear-water ponds at the bottom. derness areas, and nature preserves for marshes or gro- From the accommodation provided in the area it is ves. easy to enter the national park, only a 3 to 5 kilometre walk (2 to 3 miles) away. Cars can be driven to the border of the park via the Keisarintie Road. The national park has a number of signposted trails and two places for setting a camp-fi re. At the Pitkä- järvi lake camp-fi replace, there is also a possibility for camping in tents. Setting a fi re is allowed, however, only when a pub- lic warning on forest fi res is not shown. Fire warnings are announced daily in newspapers, on television and through the radio in connection with weather fore- casts. You can move anywhere in the national park, either on foot or with skis. As the soil in the area wears out very easily, the use of trails is recommended. For the same reason ski sticks should not be used when wal- king. Riding a bicycle, sports fi shing and hunting are forbidden. You are, however, allowed to pick berries and mushrooms, but must leave any other types of vegetation in peace.

National parks in Finland (2006)

Blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus)

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Human history

History of population settlement between Utajärvi and Vaala. Some portions of the Emperor’s Road are still visible today, and at the bor- Finland became populated after the Ice Age. Utility der of the Rokua National Park there are even some articles dating back to 7,000 BC have been discove- drivable passages left. red. Today’s research indicates that most of the popu- lation settlement took place between 6,000 and 3,000 Tar burning BC. Proof of signifi cant prehistorical population has been found through the utility articles excavated at The eastern part of central Finland (Kainuu) has Nimisjärvi lake situated between Oulujärvi lake and a long history in tar burning, the records date back Rokuanvaara. to the 17th century. Tar was then burned at least in Until the 17th century Lapps used Rokuanvaara for Paltamo and Manamansalo. Tar burning thrived in herding their reindeer. Being hunter-gatherers their li- Kainuu in the 19th century. Numerous tar-burning festyle was semi-nomadic. The prey consisted mainly pits still remain as a proof that tar was burned also at of deer, elks, and fi sh. In the winter they often stayed Rokuanvaara. in the same location in their winter villages. Most As raw material for tar burning amber-rich and long Lapps withdrew further north giving way to peasants pieces of wood were used. The bark was removed and coming from the south. Due to its barren nature Ro- the wood was stored in a vertical position to dry and kuanvaara proper has probably never been inhabited. to enable amber formation. The construction of the Remains of the oldest settlement still existing today burning pit was started in May. This was always done are the houses at the southern lakeside of Rokuanjärvi on the slope of a hill. The pieces of wood were piled and those near Ahmasjärvi lake. up on the bottom of the burning pit as a radial stack, the ends facing the center, and then covered with a The Emperor’s Road layer of turf and mould. Birch bark was used to set the pit into fi re. The Emperor’s Road is a 46 km (29 miles) long por- tion of the ancient road between Oulu and Kajaani from Vaala to Utajärvi passing north-west through Rokua and Ahmasjärvi lake. Originally it was only a walking and riding trail, until in the 17th century it was enlarged to fi t carriages. The Emperor’s Road was part of the mail route between Oulu and Iisalmi. This road was used also for carrying mail all the way to Stockholm, in circumstances when the Baltic sea via Åland Islands was impossible to cross. Earlier, The Emperor’s Road was known as Säräisniemi’s old road or Oulu road. The name Cross-section of tar burning pit Emperor’s Road comes from a story according to which the Russian Emperor Alexander I had used this In order to allow tar formation it was necessary to road on his visit to Finland in 1819, whereas in reality, burn the pit slowly, in about one week’s time. A gutter he used another. Gustavus Adolphus II, the King of was used to let the tar drop down to barrels. Typically Sweden, however, did use this route in the winter of one pit produced about 40-50 barrels of tar. Tar was 1622 when returning home from the military expedi- then transported to Oulu to be sold. Especially during tion to Livonia via Vyborg to Stockholm to lead the the era of sailing ships, tar was shipped to Britain, the new Parliament convenes. Netherlands, Sweden, and Russia. By the beginning of The Emperor’s Road was an important route from the fi rst world war, the tar business had died down. the 17th to the end of the 19th century. Inns along the In the old days tar was used for many purposes, but route provided travellers with overnight shelter and a mainly as a protection for the wooden parts in tools, place in the stable for their horses. Rokua house near machines and horse sleighs. It is said that old shingle Rokuanjärvi lake served as an inn from the 1680s to roofs could last as long as 500 years when tarred. The 1860s. In the 19th century, the network of roads in protective effect of tar is based on a membrane that the Oulujoki river valley expanded a lot, displacing does not let any water or sunlight through. Tar was the Emperor’s Road from the position it had had until also used as an oiling or protective substance and as a then. For example in the 1840s a new road was made medicine for burns and insect bites.

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Trails

The Emperor’s Tour Ski tracks The Emperor’s Tour is a 22 km (14 miles) long hiking In Rokua, the terrain provides excellent facilities for trail which serves as a connection between Rokua’s na- cross-country skiing. Rokuanhovi hotel and Rokua tural attractions and services. Along the trail there are Fitness Centre have their own ski tracks with lighting, four locations for setting a camp-fi re and one cabin and there is even a similar 3 km (2 miles) track bet- for overnight visits. ween them. Racing ski tracks provide a 50-metre (160 The trail is marked with white paint on trees. An ft) difference in elevation. Hiking tracks have lean-to easy-to-read map on the Emperor’s Tour is available shelters where one can rest and enjoy a cup of coffee from all accommodation providers in the area. Shorter or eat lunch. options for hiking are the trails that remain inside the circular Emperor’s Tour.

Tales and stories

Tar burners The wood nymph stayed by the camp-fi re for a while, dancing to the joy of these two men. On a darkening autumn evening two tar burners Then the younger man said to her ”You are very were sitting by a tar-burning pit at Kirvesjärvi lake, beautiful from the front, but I wonder what you might watching the fi re and waiting for the tar to be ready. look like from the back”. One of the men noticed some creature dancing in the He kept asking her to show her back, and fi nal- distance, moving from one tree top to another. They ly she gently turned around. To their amazement the both followed this beautiful vision whose dress was men noticed that her back was hollow and composed rippling in the wind. The younger man expressed his of bark. In the very same instant she vanished into admiration in words, and the older one said that it the woods. Terribly upset, the older man scolded the cannot be anything but a wood nymph. younger one for failing to admire the beauty and for The younger man asked the wood nymph to come driving her away by using his bold talk. closer so that they could admire her beauty. So she came down the trees until she was right there next Get up and climb the tree to the camp-fi re. The older man stood there adoring her beauty and the magnifi cent dress she was wearing. One man had gone bird hunting and had got lost in the forest. In the darkening night he couldn’t fi nd his way back home from Rokuanvaara. So, deciding to stay there overnight he set a big camp-fi re and lay himself down next to it. Suddenly at night the man woke up feeling as if someone had grabbed him and said: ”Get up and climb the tree, for soon danger is going to pass by. The man stood there for a moment wondering what happened, but believed what he was told. No sooner nine bears appeared from the forest, sniffi ng around the camp-fi re. They stayed there for a while and then returned back to the forest. The man stood there pondering over who it was that warned him, a gnome, wood nymph, or some other kind of fairy? From then on he believed that there are fairies or simi- lar creatures in the forest.

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Black-throated diver – a bird in a hurry Water gnome When the black-throated diver was being created, she One man was picking berries at Pitkäjärvi lakeside had no patience to wait for her legs to be fi nished. when he heard a voice saying: ”Oh, oh, passes the She thought that it did not matter if the legs follow, time, but does not pass the man.” just hanging behind, meanwhile her wings had to be The man understood that something strange was superb. going on. He heard the voice groaning again: ”Oh, As soon as the wings were fi nished she took off in oh, passes the time, but does not pass the man.” the air, even though she hald no legs yet. God ponde- And, no sooner the man noticed a hiker coming red for a moment what to do about it, and then deci- from the hills. The hiker stopped by the shore with ded to cast the legs after the bird. This is how the legs the intention of having a swim. The man warned him became attached to the back. From this moment on, that it was dangerous, since the water gnome had told: the black-throated diver has had legs pointing back- Oh, oh, passes the time, but does not pass the man! wards, and thus cannot move on the ground, being so The hiker decided, however, to at least wash his face compelled to live in water. in the lake. No sooner the hiker fell to his death, and the gnome who was determined to get a victim in one way or another, got what he wanted.

Exercises and activities

Sound laboratory Smells In our everyday environment we get used to hearing In this exercise the participants may freely wander in many kinds of sounds. Even in the silence of the the area (only on the trails) and seek for interesting woods there are different sounds. Listen to them, and smells. Does the lakeside smell any different from the make a list of them. dry pine forest or marsh? Tell one another what sort Start with sounds coming from near, from your of smells you sensed and what things they brought own body, and then from the roundabout: the breat- into mind. hing of others, the rustling of dwarf shrubs, the mur- muring of the wind, the singing of birds. Finish the Shadow pantomime exercise by listening to distant sounds, such as passing cars, barking dogs, etc. Then, compare your notes and Shadows are ideal to use as pantomime characters, see if you missed something. as they are silent and easy to animate. Work in small groups or pairs and perform an animal or a plant using a shadow. Natural phenomena, such as wind, can also be performed using group pantomime. The task of the others is to try and guess what you are performing.

Water moves sand Take off your shoes and feel how the water moves the sand. Position yourself on the water’s edge so that you can feel how your bare feet eventually sink in the sand, as if sand were running away from your feet.

Finding water with a divining rod Probably, the oldest way of fi nding water is using a divining rod to do the job. A shrub with two branches Tree pipit (Anthus trivialis) sings also when fl ying is needed. This divining rod has been used to show the position for a new well. Some people swear it is true, others just laugh about it, so why don’t you just try it yourself!

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Find a loose, small shrub or a branch that splits into been found, discuss how each of you recognized their two directions. Hold the rod from the two ends, and trees and what sort of feelings the exercise awakened move forward slowly. If the stalk begins to move up in your mind. and down, water is near. At Pookivaara there is a well behind the old skiing lodge. Just walk until you come Finding traces of frost damage close to the well and see if the divining rod begins to behave in a strange manner. In this way you may see In freezing temperatures a tree shrinks a little bit. In with your own eyes whether this old trick works or case there is a sudden drop in temperature, the surface not. shrinks faster than the inside. When the ”coat” be- comes too small, scars may appear, releasing a rustling Cone man or cone woman or banging sound. Most of these scars are so small that they are not vi- Use cones or other loose material to construct a cone sible on the surface. Occasionally, however, large scars man and take it with you as a reminder of a day spent that do not have enough time to even get closed in the in nature. You may also leave it there in the forest with following summer may appear. When walking in the the spirits to show them your gratitude about all the forest, see if you can spot any such scars on the trees. things you have experienced during the day. Burn scars Charred spots on the sides of stumps and live trees are traces of forest fi res. Large pines usually survive them, since the thick bark at the base prevents scorching heat from penetrating to the trunk. On the side where wind is blowing, the heat may kill the cell layer under the bark, even if the bark doesn’t burn. The burn scar thus is not always charred. During the next few years, the tree begins to fi ll up the scar with new growth from both sides. Large scars take many years to recover. Take a closer look at the trunks to see if you can spot any burn scars on them.

If I were a tree Choose for yourselves some kind of a tree, old or young, growing, dead or fallen. Try to imagine what its life is like, what it sees, hears, feels, smells, or thinks, and what has it already gone through during its life. How does it feel when one climbs on it, twists branches, or carves his initials on the trunk. Then tell each other the story of the tree.

Facing a tree Everyone is taken on their turn blindfolded to a tree that grows in the neighbourhood. Then you may take all the time to get acquainted with the tree, feeling its surface and shape. After this you are taken away from the tree making twists to hide where you came from. Old burn scar in a pine tree. After you have been granted the permission you may start to seek for your tree. When all trees have

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Lichen on the trunks The signifi cance of colours The cleaner the air, the better the conditions are for Think about the signifi cance of colours to any life lichens growing on trees. Despite its distracting name, form. What tasks do colours have in each case? beard moss is a lichen that thrives on the trunks. It Animals use colours for protection and for catching is very sensitive to air pollution, and so has become attention. The eye-shaped fi gures on butterfl y wings, signifi cantly less common, particularly in southern for example, act as a deterrent against enemies. With Finland. Lichen growth gets disturbed by sulphur dio- their protective colouring hares and willow grouses are xide, for example. well-adjusted to both winter and summer conditions, Have a look at the old pine trunks at Pookivaara making it harder for predators to notice them. to see how many different types of lichen grow on Birds express the boundaries of their territories by them. singing and by colour patterns. Coots, for example, expose a white patch on their foreheads when fi ghting Measuring tree height over the possession of a territory and threatening one another. Colours are often of importance when ma- The height of a tree can be measured quite accurately les are making attempts to lure females into entering using a stick or branch. Hold your arm straight out their territory. in front of you, and the length of the stick must be Plants make use of a variety of pigments, such as equal to the distance from your eye to the tip of your chlorophyll. In the autumn they store chlorophyll thumb. into the tissue, and other pigments become visible. Hold the stick in your arm and walk backwards Insects have an excellent ability to distinguish bet- away from the tree until it appears to be equally tall ween colours. For example, they learn the colours of with the stick. The distance to the tree from that posi- the fl owers they regularly visit, and different individu- tion is the same as the height of the tree. Then walk to als often specialise in visiting fl owers with a particular the tree counting your steps to make an estimation. colour.

Food chain Spend a moment pondering over what kind of food chains there are in this location. You can get started, for example, with lingonberry and think of the ani- mals that use it as nourishment. And, who eats the animal that has eaten the lingonberries? Are you your- self at any time part of this food chain?

Measuring a tree with a stick

The age of a tree Search for a small tree the top of which you can reach. Count the number of spirally oriented groups of bran- ches on it, so you know how old the tree is. Measure the distance between the spirals. Has the tree grown the same amount every year? What might be the factors that have an impact on the varying shoot? Remember that the distance between subse- quent branch spirals represents the yearly growth.

Who eats a branch of a birch?

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Word game Snake run You can work in groups of pairs or up to 3-6 mem- The players stand in queues of several groups, making bers. One of you acts as the leader. The idea is to fi nd up a snake by placing their knees on the ground and names of wildings, animals or geological formations by placing their arms on the shoulders of the person that begin with the letters there are in the town’s name in front of them. Having given the starting command, or location’s name. the last one in the queue will crawl on all fours bet- The fi rst group to fi nd the answers is the winner. ween the group mates, alternately from left and right, With children, it is a good idea to simplify the task by until he arrives in front of the queue. Then he places allowing them to use names of pets or garden plants. himself in the original position and lifts his arms to tell the last one in the queue to crawl in turn. Everyo- Identifying the object ne crawls in their turn, and the winner is the team that fi rst returns to the original position. Sit down in a circle keeping your eyes shut. Everyone is given some natural object to touch and feel, such as ”The ship has been loaded” a berry, piece of bark, cone, needle, piece of branch, or leaf. Use only loose objects. The idea is to learn the The players sit down in a circle and each one says in object by feeling it. their own turn that the ship is loaded with certain Once the objects have been felt, they are put away things they have agreed on. As you are in a national and sent forward around the circle. When one of your park, it is a good idea to use names of plants, animals objects returns to your hands, you should be able to or birds, or just names that begin with a certain let- recognise it. When everyone thinks they have found ter. the objects that they originally had, you can open The loading is done by throwing some soft object your eyes to see what they actually looked like. to another person in the circle. When doing this, you say ”the ship has been loaded with squirrels”, and Feeling the object quickly throw the object to someone else. The one who catches the object has to fi nd the name of a new The participants work in pairs where one leads the object belonging to the same category. In case you fail other who keeps the eyes shut. The blind one is gi- to think of any name, you are out of the game, or al- ven various objects to touch, and you must not say ternatively the others must think of something funny anything about them yet at this stage, but just try to for you to do. imagine what they might be. Having touched 5 to 10 objects the blind one tells what he or she thinks Water contest the objects were. After this, change the role with your partner. This task requires that you have a couple of bowls or When you walk, use only signposted trails, and do basins that are equal in size. One dish is enough provi- not loosen any natural objects. Instead, kneel down ded that you have a watch to measure the time. Make to feel the moss or dwarf shrubs, reach your arms to- small groups and see which of you fi lls up the dish wards branches, etc. fastest by carrying water from the nearby lake without any external aid. Only your arms and and your imagi- nation can be used.

13 Metsähallitus – Rokuan luontorastit

Signposts This section contains the texts used in the signposts used along the Emperor’s Tour. The location of each signpost is given in header. A map of the Emperor’s Forest birds – at the lakeside of Lianjärvi Route with signposts is in the beginning of this The three most common birds in Finland are willow booklet. warbler, chaffi nch, and tree pipit. In Rokua, the most abundant birds are redstart, willow warbler, spotted fl ycatcher (pictured), and chaffi nch. The birds are often easiest to identify on the basis of Tracking the black woodpecker their voice. – at the lakeside of Ahveroinen The mistle thrush has a fl ute-like voice which may be heard miles away.

The most common fowls found in the area are grouse, capercaillie, and partridge. Traces of woodpeckers’ work are easy to spot everyw- The unique landscape in Rokua was formed after the here in Rokua. Ice Age when an esker formation that rose from the sea was shaped by water and winds. Vegetation and soil in the area are sensitive to erosion. Star reindeer lichen, which is dominant in the area, requires decades to renew. Underwater world – Forest fi res have burned parts of the pine forests in the at the lakeside of Kirvesjärvi area once every 50 years. There are over 190,000 lakes in Finland. Some kettle holes have low-nutrient clear-water ponds or lakes at the bottom. A lake is any water system larger than one acre. Black-throated divers and mergansers are the most Finland is home to about 60 different species of fi sh. frequently seen fi shing birds in the lakes and ponds in Rokua. The Finnish national fi sh is perch. Dominant bird species are redstart, willow warbler, Your catch from Kirvesjärvi or Tulijärvi lakes may contain spotted fl ycatcher, and chaffi nch. Also the black wood- perch, pike (pictured), ruff, whitefi sh, and roach. pecker (pictured) can be heard. The mammals found in the area are elk, red fox, pine marten, weasel, squirrel, and roe deer.

In the summer, the most frequently seen fi shing bird at Kirvesjärvi lake is the black-throated diver.

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Forest life – at the lakeside of Saarinen Fireman´s nightmare – at Pookivaara

Finland is home to over 20,000 insect species, the In the old days fi res were a frequent visitor in the boreal amount of mammal species is 64. forests. The Finnish national animal is bear. In Rokua the dry and fl ammable lichen-rich pine forests fi res have occurred every 50 years on average. Most mammal species move mainly at night. From nature’s point of view, today forest fi res are extin- guished in a much too effi cient way. Of insects 14 species have become endangered after the fi res have become more rare. Burn scars (pictured) may be visible on the trunks of large pines with thick bark for a very long time.

The mammals in Rokua that you may spot are elk (pic- tured), red fox, pine marten, weasel, squirrel, and roe deer. Brown squirrel is the mammal species that is easiest to Traces of a forest fi re in 1948 are still visible in the wes- come across. tern parts of Rokuanvaara. Leave the forest and its animals in peace.

Traces of the Ice Age – at Syvyydenkaivo A moment for silence –

The unique landscape in Rokua was formed after the at the lakeside of Pitkäjärvi Ice Age when an esker formation that rose from the sea was shaped by water and winds. Watch the stars in the sky the rising of the sun traces in the snow clouds in the blue sky sparkling water

Listen to the murmuring wind to the lapping of waves to the birds sing to the hollowing owls

Feel the smell of a marsh tea the taste of a whortleberry the drops of rain on your face the moment of the setting sun

Wind piled up dunes (pictured) in the esker sand. The dunes were eventually covered with vegetation, lessening the wind effect. Kettle holes are a chacteristic part of Rokua landscape, and they emerged when large lumps of ice buried in the sand melted down. The withdrawing Baltic Sea left behind numerous banks surrounding the hill.

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Rokua National Park – Spirits, sauna and tar – at the Pitkäjärvi camp-fi replace at Rokuanjärvi cabin

Vegetation and soil in the national park are sensitive to Tar has been used as a medicineto cure almost anyt- erosion. hing. During the era of wooden ships, tar was used as a protection. In northern Finland tar burning was a thriving business in the 19th century. Tar was burned in a pit, using dried amber-rich logs of pine. One pit produced about 50 barrels of tar.

Star reindeer lichen (pictured), which is dominant in the area, requires decades to renew. Use only signposted trails to move in the national park. Pine is the only type of tree that thrives on the barren but lichen-rich forestsheather and lingonberry give some colour to the lichen bed.

Tar was transported to Oulu with row boats (pictured) to be sold to the world market. The locations of several tar-burning pits are still recogni- sable in Rokua.

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References

Aartolahti, Toive. Morphology, vegetation and development of Rokuanvaara an esker and dune complex in Finland. Fennia 127.1973. Aartolahti, Toive. Suomen geologia. Helsingin yliopiston opetus- moniste. Autio, Jyrki, Leo Koutaniemi, Seppo Luoma-aho & Pentti Åman. Oulun yliopiston maantieteen laitoksen opetusmoniste no.17. Aulio, Olli. Suuri leikkikirja. Gummerus oy:n kirjapaino, Jyväskylä 1985. Ekholm ym. Rokuan kansallispuisto. Metsähallitus, luonnonsuo- jelu, Vantaa 1994. Hamari, Risto ym. Reviiri. Lukion Biologia. WSOY, Porvoo 1997. Heikkinen, Reijo. Tarinoita tervamailta. Koillissanomien kirjapai- no Kuusamo 1989. Huure Matti & Jouko Vahtola. 1991. Oulujokilaakson historia. Oulu 1991. Hämet-Ahti, L., Suominen, J., Ulvinen, T. & Uotila, P. (toim.) Retkeilykasvio. Yliopistopaino, Helsinki 1998. Jalas, Jaakko. Rokua. Suunnitellun kansallispuiston kasvillisuus ja kasvilajisto. Helsinki 1953. Karvinen, P. Hinkkanen, J. Nykänen, R. Kinnunen, J. & Karhu, S. Luonnossa kotonaan – luonto-opastuksen käsikirja. Raken- nusalan Kustantajat RAK, Helsinki 1997 Mäkelä, Simo. Artikkeli. Mönkkönen, Mikko. Luonnonmetsä muuttuu jatkuvasti. Vanhaa metsää etsimässä. Metsähallitus, 1998. Oy Edita Ab. Neuvonen, Veikko. Luontoilta. Otava, Keuruu 1997 Nykänen, R. Oppimaan luonnonsuojelualueille. Metsähallituk- sen luonnonsuojelujulkaisuja. Sarja B:30. Vantaa, 1996. Paikallistutkimuksia: kokoelma tieteellisten seurojen julkaisemia tutkimuksia ja muita artikkeleita Oulujärvestä, Pelsosta ja Rokuasta. Pelejä ja leikkejä kotona ja kylässä. WSOY, Juva 1993. Peruskartta 4223 04 Rokua. Maanmittauslaitos 1996. Karttakes- kus Oy, Helsinki 1996. Ranta, Elina & Maija Ranta. Haltijoitten mailla, maahisten ma- joissa. WSOY, Porvoo 1996. Taipale, Kalle & Saarnisto Matti. Tulivuorista jääkausiin. WSOY, Porvoo 1991. Tikkanen ym. Askel elämyksiin, Leivonmäen luonnonsuojelualu- een opas. Metsähallitus 1997. Virtanen, Leea. Kansan viisauden kirja. WSOY, Porvoo 1991. Virtanen, P. (toim.). Metsänhaltiat. Tamprint, Tampere 1983 Vuokko, Seppo. Metsä palaa. Suomen Luonto 8/1997. www.kainuunmk.fi /terva/perinne.htm.

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