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Women’sThe T Inside: Pg. 13 RETAIL’S SLOW RECOVERY FROM KATRINA/3 WWD op 10 Pastimes WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • September 1, 2005• $2.00 List Sportswear Skirting The Issue SAN DIEGO — Designers exhibiting at the ASR Expo next week are looking beyond the California coast for inspiration. The result: everything from cool Tokyo urban looks to classic American prep. Here, Roxy’s cotton shirt and skirt and leather belt. For more on ASR, see pages 6 and 7. MELISSA MAGSAYSAY BY Y ANNIE ING; JENNIFER SWII BOOTS; STYLED Refining the Mass Formula: Target Speeds Growth Via the Mall YAN/L.A. MODELS, HAIR BY IAN JAMES; MAKEUP B MODELS, HAIR BY YAN/L.A. By Amy S. Choi and Meredith Derby acquisition of May Department is right for such a move. The retailer NEW YORK — Target Corp. might have Stores Co., which closed Tuesday, has shed Mervyn’s and Marshall found its sweet spot: the mall. mall owners could turn to Target to Field’s and is outperforming the As Federated Department fill those vacant spaces. competition in terms of hipness and Stores Inc. looks to shed 75 Although Target has been in marketing prowess. And thanks to overlapping stores following its malls since the Seventies, the timing See Target’s, Page 14 PHOTO BY JEREMY GOLDBERG; MODELS: LENA BEDO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ The Action Sports Retail expo is known for skate, surf and street brands, 6 but has evolved with more casual looks like soft tops and chic skirts. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Target has shed Mervyn’s and Marshall Field’s, rethought its consumables THE SWEATER SET 1 strategy to focus on Super Targets and is fine-tuning its real estate plan. Updated with Lighter Weight and Novel Details DISH: Mudd beefs up its executive ranks…Wanted: an exclusive Wrangler 8 denim line served on ice…Vancouver’s Fidelity crosses the border. Julia lives in Boston; her sister, Pamela, embellishments as far as rhinestones, sequins, BEAT: Apple Bottoms is known for the shapely fit of its jeans and now it makes her home in Southern California. While their embroidery and novelty looks,” says Melissa 9 hopes to be known for a host of other products that fall from its tree. coastal climates couldn’t be more different, both DeFalco, owner of Anthology in Westfield, N.J., ACTIVE: Fila isn’t sponsoring the U.S. Open this year, but it’s making moves women find that when September arrives, they both which carries sweaters from Free People and Toppin. 10 to regain its stature, including a new, innovative store on Madison Avenue. look for transitional sweaters that provide a variety of Equally important are the more subtle details. Diesel said it has signed a licensing agreement with Fossil Inc. for the layering options, temperature aside. “People like that unique quality,” 11 production and distribution of its new jewelry collection. “I grew up loving big, heavy, says Thompson. “Mixed stitches, cabling, popcorn stitches—all of Driven by strong sales of high-ticket items, Tiffany & Co. reported a 52.8 oversized sweaters,” says Julia, a jump in second-quarter earnings on a double-digit sales gain. marketing executive. “But they’re those textural touches are key.” 11 just not practical for my everyday Known for its individualistic Talking for a second day in Beijing, U.S. and Chinese negotiators failed to life anymore, even here in the approach to fashion, J. Jill is 16 produce an apparel and textile import agreement, but will meet again today. Northeast. Now I look for sweaters expanding on that niche this In a heated meeting with member states, EU Trade Commissioner Peter that I can wear year-round. Maybe season with a new, limited-edition 16 Mandelson presented a proposal to release embargoed Chinese goods. I can wear them alone, maybe I collection that takes its style cues can put a camisole or T-shirt from vintage pieces. Called Re: EYE underneath. I really like clothing Crafted, Created and Imagined, the Paulo Coelho offers another chapter of his philosophical musings in his that’s flexible and gives me options.” line includes about 10 novelty 4 new novel “The Zahir”…Royal horseplay in France…Chic of the Week. September signals the arrival of sweaters designed with a one-of-a- sweater weather, but these days kind, handcrafted appeal. Many of Classified Advertisements........................................................................19 there’s a noticeable change in the the details, from appliqués and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is air. The sweaters have lightened “The turtleneck is the cold- embroidery to whipstitching, are [email protected], using the individual’s name. up, replacing bulky looks with weather version of the T-shirt— actually hand-done. it’s indispensable.” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 finer-weight styles that can be “The stitching, colorations and FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. dressed up or down, and are more — Betsy Thompson, finishes have more of that hand- VOLUME 190, NO. 47. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Talbots issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in adaptable throughout the year. worn feel,” notes Hopkins. February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL “Women want sweaters to be warm, but they “They’re not recycled, but they look like they OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill don’t want them to be heavy,” relates Betsy Thompson, were handed down, or made by someone’s Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior a spokesperson for Talbots. “There’s a certain grandmother.” At retails of $98-$118, they are Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General element in parts of the country where heavy works priced slightly higher than the company’s typical Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. well, but for the most part you’re inside, so you like novelty sweater offerings. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: that ability to layer up or down.” Heavier sweaters Adding to the one-of-a-kind allure is the fact that SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North often feature half or three-quarter length sleeves. the Re:Crafted items will only be available from Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Most key right now, say apparel executives, is the September through Christmas. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four ability to offer consumers pieces that can move easily Of course, in fashion, sometimes what’s old really weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- from fall, through winter’s coldest months, and on is new again—and for sweaters this fall, that 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit to spring. definitely means the return of the reliable twin set, www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail “The lighter and finer the sweater, the more albeit with a modern twist. and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. versatile,” notes Bryson Hopkins, vice president of “The twin set has become a staple,” relates Paruch WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED at Cotton Incorporated. “Today, layering is key. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND merchandising for J. Jill, adding that lighter-weight, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART open-knit sweaters with novelty appeal are Women are much more comfortable now mixing WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED particularly important this fall and matching pieces, so they TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE and winter. “It can carry you How do you dress for different activities? may not wear the twin set ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID.