Women’sThe T Inside: Pg. 13 RETAIL’S SLOW RECOVERY FROM KATRINA/3 WWD op 10 Pastimes WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • September 1, 2005• $2.00 List Skirting The Issue SAN DIEGO — Designers exhibiting at the ASR Expo next week are looking beyond the California coast for inspiration. The result: everything from cool Tokyo urban looks to classic American prep. Here, Roxy’s cotton and skirt and leather belt. For more on ASR, see pages 6 and 7. MELISSA MAGSAYSAY BY

Y ANNIE ING; JENNIFER SWII BOOTS; STYLED

Refining the Mass Formula: Target Speeds Growth Via the Mall

YAN/L.A. MODELS, HAIR BY IAN JAMES; MAKEUP B MODELS, HAIR BY YAN/L.A. By Amy S. Choi and Meredith Derby acquisition of May Department is right for such a move. The retailer NEW YORK — Target Corp. might have Stores Co., which closed Tuesday, has shed Mervyn’s and Marshall found its sweet spot: the mall. mall owners could turn to Target to Field’s and is outperforming the As Federated Department fill those vacant spaces. competition in terms of hipness and Stores Inc. looks to shed 75 Although Target has been in marketing prowess. And thanks to overlapping stores following its malls since the Seventies, the timing See Target’s, Page 14 PHOTO BY JEREMY GOLDBERG; MODELS: LENA BEDO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear ™ The Action Sports Retail expo is known for skate, surf and street , 6 but has evolved with more casual looks like soft tops and chic skirts. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Target has shed Mervyn’s and Marshall Field’s, rethought its consumables THE SET 1 strategy to focus on Super Targets and is fine-tuning its real estate plan. Updated with Lighter Weight and Novel Details DISH: Mudd beefs up its executive ranks…Wanted: an exclusive Wrangler 8 denim line served on ice…Vancouver’s Fidelity crosses the border. Julia lives in Boston; her sister, Pamela, embellishments as far as rhinestones, sequins, BEAT: Apple Bottoms is known for the shapely fit of its and now it makes her home in Southern California. While their embroidery and novelty looks,” says Melissa 9 hopes to be known for a host of other products that fall from its tree. coastal climates couldn’t be more different, both DeFalco, owner of Anthology in Westfield, N.J., ACTIVE: Fila isn’t sponsoring the U.S. Open this year, but it’s making moves women find that when September arrives, they both which carries from Free People and Toppin. 10 to regain its stature, including a new, innovative store on Madison Avenue. look for transitional sweaters that provide a variety of Equally important are the more subtle details. Diesel said it has signed a licensing agreement with Fossil Inc. for the layering options, temperature aside. “People like that unique quality,” 11 production and distribution of its new jewelry collection. “I grew up loving big, heavy, says Thompson. “Mixed stitches, cabling, popcorn stitches—all of Driven by strong sales of high-ticket items, Tiffany & Co. reported a 52.8 oversized sweaters,” says Julia, a jump in second-quarter earnings on a double-digit sales gain. marketing executive. “But they’re those textural touches are key.” 11 just not practical for my everyday Known for its individualistic Talking for a second day in Beijing, U.S. and Chinese negotiators failed to life anymore, even here in the approach to fashion, J. Jill is 16 produce an apparel and textile import agreement, but will meet again today. Northeast. Now I look for sweaters expanding on that niche this In a heated meeting with member states, EU Trade Commissioner Peter that I can wear year-round. Maybe season with a new, limited-edition 16 Mandelson presented a proposal to release embargoed Chinese goods. I can wear them alone, maybe I collection that takes its style cues can put a camisole or T-shirt from vintage pieces. Called Re: EYE underneath. I really like Crafted, Created and Imagined, the Paulo Coelho offers another chapter of his philosophical musings in his that’s flexible and gives me options.” line includes about 10 novelty 4 new novel “The Zahir”…Royal horseplay in France…Chic of the Week. September signals the arrival of sweaters designed with a one-of-a- sweater weather, but these days kind, handcrafted appeal. Many of Classified Advertisements...... 19 there’s a noticeable change in the the details, from appliqués and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is air. The sweaters have lightened “The turtleneck is the cold- embroidery to whipstitching, are [email protected], using the individual’s name. up, replacing bulky looks with weather version of the T-shirt— actually hand-done. it’s indispensable.” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 finer-weight styles that can be “The stitching, colorations and FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. dressed up or down, and are more — Betsy Thompson, finishes have more of that hand- VOLUME 190, NO. 47. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional Talbots issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in adaptable throughout the year. worn feel,” notes Hopkins. February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL “Women want sweaters to be warm, but they “They’re not recycled, but they look like they OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill don’t want them to be heavy,” relates Betsy Thompson, were handed down, or made by someone’s Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior a spokesperson for Talbots. “There’s a certain grandmother.” At retails of $98-$118, they are Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General element in parts of the country where heavy works priced slightly higher than the company’s typical Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. well, but for the most part you’re inside, so you like novelty sweater offerings. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: that ability to layer up or down.” Heavier sweaters Adding to the one-of-a-kind allure is the fact that SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North often feature half or three-quarter length sleeves. the Re:Crafted items will only be available from Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Most key right now, say apparel executives, is the September through Christmas. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four ability to offer consumers pieces that can move easily Of course, in fashion, sometimes what’s old really weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- from fall, through winter’s coldest months, and on is new again—and for sweaters this fall, that 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit to spring. definitely means the return of the reliable twin set, www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail “The lighter and finer the sweater, the more albeit with a modern twist. and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. versatile,” notes Bryson Hopkins, vice president of “The twin set has become a staple,” relates Paruch WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED at Cotton Incorporated. “Today, layering is key. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND merchandising for J. Jill, adding that lighter-weight, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART open-knit sweaters with novelty appeal are Women are much more comfortable now mixing WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED particularly important this fall and matching pieces, so they TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE and winter. “It can carry you How do you for different activities? may not wear the twin set ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. through the seasons.” Wear one comfortable outfit 53.6% together—they’ll wear the Jessica Paruch, Cotton Change clothes to fit the activities 45% pieces separately for an Incorporated trend forecaster, individual look.” agrees, “Overall trends are moving toward more As with most silhouettes this season, the twin set In Brief season-less items, and sweaters are part of that. We’re has also been refined to be a little more snug, and a seeing not only lighter-weight sweaters, but almost bit shorter. They’re a little cozier—a little more fitted ● WAL-MART’S NEW MARKETER: Stephen F. Quinn was named sheer weights as well. The chunkiness is gone, on the body, very pretty and feminine,” says senior vice president of marketing for Wal-Mart Stores Inc., ef- replaced by more versatile options.” Thompson. fective Sept. 12, the company said Wednesday. At Wal-Mart, he At Talbots, the cardigan also continues to be a will be responsible for marketing strategy, planning, finance, re- Women clearly appreciate clothing that’s easily search and development. Quinn will report to executive adaptable, as seen in the latest Cotton Incorporated’s popular seller—both as part of a twin set, or worn on vice president and chief marketing officer John Fleming. Lifestyle Monitor™ data. Asked how they would its own. Updates such as two-way zippers also help Quinn’s purview will also include advertising and will involve dress for several different activities, 53.6% of women to give it a fresher look. “A cardigan gives you that all of Wal-Mart’s product categories. Quinn is chief marketing of- said they would wear just one comfortable outfit. great softer alternative, with a lot of shape,” ficer for Frito-Lay Inc., North America, responsible for all as- And most women like the flexibility of layering; notes Thompson. pects of marketing for the brands such as Lay’s, Doritos and 58% of respondents said that if they felt warm while And of course, it wouldn’t be autumn without Cheetos. Quinn spent most of his career working for food and wearing a nice sweater at a party, they would take it that tried-and-true fall classic: the turtleneck. packaged goods companies, including Quaker Oats, Johnson & off to be more comfortable. Whether featured with half-length or three-quarter- Johnson and Procter & Gamble. As they’ve lightened up, sweaters have also length sleeves or traditional long sleeves, this is one ● uncomplicated, dependable basic that’s become an RICHEMONT MOVE: Rodolfo “Rudy” Chavez has been promot- become more body-conscious; shrunken, shortened ed to president of Baume & Mercier North America, replacing styles are everywhere on retail floors this fall. And sil- apparel mainstay. Edward Wright, who has been appointed senior vice president houettes such as wrap sweaters, sweater , Affirms Thompson, “The turtleneck is truly the of retail for Cartier North America. Chavez was most recently hoodies, and even shrugs, all offer shoppers different cold-weather version of the T-shirt. It’s indispensable.” vice president of sales for Baume & Mercier North America and looks for layering. This story is one in a series of articles based on findings has been with the company in various positions since 1998, when Notes Thompson, “The shrug is really fun, and from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ he started as regional sales manager. Baume & Mercier and that detail where you can cinch it up at the waist and tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, Cartier are both owned by the Swiss luxury group Compagnie make it shorter, is flattering and very versatile—it each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the Financière Richemont. works well with a tweed skirt or with jeans.” American consumer and her attitudes and behavior If it’s the little details that count, then that’s even regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, more true this season; topical details and novelty fiber selection and many other timely, Correction treatments are prominent. “You’re going to find relevant subjects. The first name of Julez Bryant, a jewelry designer, was misspelled in a credit on page 6 of the Swim supplement published Aug. 4. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 3 WWD.COM Recovery From Katrina: Long and Slow

By David Moin and Sharon Edelson

NEW YORK — Retail operations in the path of Hurricane Katrina could remain down for weeks or even months, though major chains made some headway Wednesday in reopening units where there was less devastation. Stores also began taking steps to help displaced employees and aid relief efforts. Estimates of the damage from Katrina range up to $26 billion, which would make it the costliest natural disaster in U.S. history. Gap Inc. said its 1,000 employees at downed stores were all accounted for; 50 units remained closed Wednesday, though there were 70 down the day before, and that em- ployees would get financial help for housing. Gap is encouraging employees to donate to Red Cross relief efforts. For whatever they donate, the corporation triples the amount, so, for example, a $50 donation becomes $150. Similarly, Limited Brands is providing financial support for housing and donated $300,000 to the American Red Cross Disaster Relief Fund. Limited’s chairman and chief executive Leslie H. Wexner asked his associates to contribute. Macy’s two stores in New Orleans remained closed. Federated Department Stores Inc. spokesman Jim Slewzuski said there’s been “virtually no communications” with the stores. “This is going to be a long haul. We are working hard to reach our associates.” “Nobody knows when the city is going to reopen,” said Andrew Jennings, president of Saks Fifth Avenue, which has a downed store in New Orleans. He said the company has reached some of the store’s 240 associates, but not all. “The most important thing is the welfare and well-being of our staff. The goods can always be replaced. People can’t.” At the Colonial Mall Bell-Air in Mobile, Ala., only the food court was open on Tuesday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. People lined up 50 deep at one point to get hot meals, said Tim Nolan, Colonial’s general manager. He said there was no looting at the mall, which on Wednesday was 100 percent open. After food, phone and phone accessories were major sellers, but people were re- portedly frustrated that they were unable to recharge cell phones. Thomas H. Lowder, chairman and ceo of Colonial Properties, a regional developer, said, “We are fortunate that all of our employees are safe and that our properties withstood the hurricane’s force with structural integrity. This was a devastating storm and our thoughts are with all who experienced loss.”

Big Lots, which had 45 stores closed at the height of the storm, said 29 stores re- JAMES NIELSEN/AFP/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY PHOTO BY JAMES NIELSEN/AFP/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY mained shut on Wednesday. “We’re not in contact with the people,” said a spokeswoman. Looting was a problem for many retailers in the wake of Katrina. “We set up an emergency contact number for all our employees. The district managers are going around to all the locations and trying to assess things. How soon we’ll be able destruction, along the Gulf Coast, and one already reopened, said Coach spokes- to get back into the stores will vary. We might know next week a little more.” woman Andrea Shaw Resnik. In all cases they are small stores, said Resnik. She said The spokeswoman said a Big Lots grand opening was scheduled for Clinton, Miss., Katrina’s impact on the Coach business was minimal, particularly compared with last today. The store was able to open but closed shortly thereafter due to a power outage. year when four hurricanes hit Florida, where Coach has many more stores. The store reopened with partial power for part of the day. “Other stores on the street One company that’s seen a sales increase attributable to Katrina is O&S Holdings LLC were closed,” said the spokeswoman. “It was just hit-or-miss.” Batteries, candles, paper of Los Angeles, which operates The Louisiana Boardwalk shopping center in Shreveport products, insect repellent, cleaning supplies, canned food, pillows, water, diapers, flash- in northwest Louisiana. “The storm hit southeastern Louisiana,” said Gary Safady, co- lights and lanterns are big sellers. founder of O&S. “We were fortunate. The residual effect has been the displacement of all Wal-Mart made headway reopening stores. On Monday, 125 stores were closed, but those people from the south coming up north. Shreveport hotels are sold out. All those by Wednesday 46 remained shut. “As utility power or generator power is able to be es- people migrating up north has increased traffic at our centers....Fashion sales were up on tablished, we are opening,” said Sharon Weber, a spokeswoman. “We’re assessing Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday and those are usually slow days.” damage. Communication is a problem. We do have teams assessing locations. We are However, “South Louisiana may not get power for three to four months and the expecting some damage there. We looked at some TV footage and saw the of a New Orleans economy is shut down for at least eight months. It’s a tragedy. We’re Wal-Mart store. Part of the store was underwater. We’re focusing on our associates doing fund-raising events at the Boardwalk next week.” right now and have established a number for them to call in. We’re waiting to hear The organizers of the MAGIC trade show decided Wednesday that they would collect back. Many have been displaced. We’re talking about several thousand people.” monetary donations at the show, which ends today and when they return to their offices in Some workers who evacuated are working at different locations, Weber said, Southern California, they will organize a clothing drive to help victims of the hurricane. adding, “We’ve actually put some of them to work in other stores. We’re giving away a “So many of us have extra samples [and] merchandise that is on sale,” said lot of water to different emergency management programs.” Deborah Kirkland, president of Johnny Was, a contemporary sportswear firm. Wal-Mart has seen some isolated instances of looting. “No one is immune,” Weber said. At MAGIC was Fred Levine, owner of the M. Fredric chain in California, who said Sears Holdings Corp. spokesman Chris Brathwaite said 14 Kmarts and seven Sears he is considering placing boxes in his 19 stores where customers can donate clothes, stores remained closed Wednesday. “We continue to try to do damage assessments,” or asking shoppers to contribute money for victims. Levine said his company sent 50 where conditions allow. He also said the company is evaluating potential donation ef- boxes of merchandise to Thailand for the victims of the Dec. 26 tsunami. forts. The seven Sears stores, which are all in the New Orleans areas, have 900 hourly President Bush announced Wednesday he would tap into the emergency oil stock- employees, who will continue to be paid for at least two weeks. The company will pile of 700 million barrels of oil to give refineries in the Gulf Coast a temporary supply reevaluate the pay situation at that time. There are also 55 salaried employees at of crude oil until tankers and oil platforms can resume deliveries. Crude oil prices those stores. The Kmart division is evaluating how to compensate employees. have soared to record highs of more than $70 a barrel, but prices have settled at $68.94 Sears credit card holders in FEMA-identified zip codes won’t be charged any inter- as the hurricane was downgraded, according to the New York Mercantile Exchange. est or fees for the next 90 days, Brathwaite noted. — With contributions from Kristi Ellis, Washington, Only four of Coach’s 275 North American stores are located in the primary area of and Khanh T.L. Tran, Las Vegas Ann Taylor Names American Eagle Exec Its New Chief Operating Officer NEW YORK — Furthering its manage- investor relations, merchandise plan- and operations executive. grow our business and maximize share- ment restructuring commenced last ning, information systems, all supply Weil has 20 years of experience. At holder value.” March, Ann Taylor Stores Corp. on chain operations including sourcing, lo- American Eagle, where she worked for In August, the company announced Wednesday named Laura A. Weil as gistics and distribution, real estate, con- 10 years, she had responsibility for all that Ron Hovsepian, a director of the chief operating officer. struction and facilities, and purchasing. financial aspects of the operations. company since 1998, was elected as non- Weil has been American Eagle Last March, Ann Taylor said its chief Previously, she was at Oppenheimer & executive chairman of the board, as part Outfitters’ chief financial officer and ex- executive J. Patrick Spainhour would be Co., where she oversaw the retail and of the management succession plan. ecutive vice president since 1995, and a leaving the company in October, and consumer investment banking group. American Eagle did not announce a key player in AEO’s growth and success. would be succeeded by Krill, primarily She also once worked at R.H. Macy & successor to Weil but said that Joan In her new role, Weil becomes the a merchant. Krill is best known for her Co. and Lehman Brothers. Hilson, senior vice president of finance number-two executive for the 782-unit success in elevating the Loft division Krill said in a statement that Weil who was recently hired from Limited Ann Taylor specialty retailer, which op- into a major national chain. Currently, will be “an excellent partner to me. Her Brands and Victoria’s Secret Stores, and erates Ann Taylor and Ann Taylor Loft she is attempting to turn around the background, which includes proven ex- Dale Clifton, vice president and con- chains, as well as outlets and an online struggling Ann Taylor division. pertise in all areas of finance and oper- troller, will report directly into Jim business. Weil, who will report to Ann Weil will be taking over several of the ations, will be a strong complement to O’Donnell, ceo, until a successor for Taylor Corp. president Kay Krill, will be responsibilities that have been handled the experience of our existing team and Weil is found. responsible for finance and accounting, by Spainhour, also largely a financial will be invaluable as we continue to — D.M. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 WWD.COM Writer of Riches NEW YORK — “Spiritual guru” is not an epithet that should be thrown around lightly. But for internationally renowned eye® author Paulo Coelho — to whom said moniker has often been attached and whose following includes Madonna, Bill Clinton, Jacques Chirac, Russell Crowe and Julia Roberts — it might not seem inappropriate. Coelho’s second book, “The Alchemist,” the story of a young shepherd boy who finds enlightenment on a journey from Spain to Northern Africa, became the best-selling book in Brazilian history, earning him a loyal readership eager for his spiritual nuggets as well as dismissive critics equally eager to call his works New Age rubbish. This month he offers another chapter of his philosophical musings when his latest novel, “The Zahir,” (HarperCollins) is released in the U.S. Born in Rio in 1947, Coelho, 58, was drawn to writing as a teenager. But when he informed his highly religious Paulo Coelho in the parents of his chosen path, they, concerned for moral French Pyrenees, where reasons about his interest in journalism, had him he lives part of the year. PHOTO BY PHILLIPE CABIDOCHE PHOTO BY committed, in a rather radical fashion, to a mental PHILLIPE CABIDOCHE PHOTO BY asylum multiple times, in the hopes of swaying him. Their efforts clearly failed and Coelho has, graciously, Coelho based Esther’s character on The Sunday French Pyrenees, where he lives part of the year. since forgiven them. But it took him until the age of 39 Times of London journalist Christina Lamb, whom he “Because if I need something, I buy instead of carrying. to pursue his dream of becoming a novelist. After years met when she interviewed him — and who has But I see no contradictions. In fact, the opposite. The as a hippie, a songwriter and a newspaper journalist, he subsequently accused him, half-jokingly, of “stealing moment I decided to go to Kazakhstan, I knew nobody finally took the plunge when he was inspired by a her soul” — but he himself has been married to his there, but then my books had arrived there, carrying my personal pilgrimage he took along the road to Santiago fourth wife, Christina Oiticicia, for 26 years soul, so it was not difficult to make contacts.” de Compostela between France and Spain. (coincidentally, or what Coelho might call “a sign,” While his celebrity status may have many such perks, His literary counterpart in “The Zahir,” a best-selling Lamb’s husband is Portuguese and named Paulo). The much like his character in “The Zahir,” Coelho claims to author, has a similar epiphany after traveling this same Kazakhstan storyline emerged after he traveled there give little thought to his identity as a world-famous route. Focusing on the idea of a zahir, an Islamic a few years ago. author. Nor has his status prevented him from letting go concept of an object or person that becomes an He is an avid globe-trotter, a hobby that has certainly of his past, as he describes his protagonist doing in the obsession, the novel begins when Esther, the been facilitated by his fame and wealth accumulated as new book. “I cannot sit here, I can, but it would be protagonist’s wife and a war correspondent, runs away a result of his 15 novels, most of which involve a journey stupid, and say, OK, I’m a very famous author. I’ve sold suddenly to Kazakhstan. She becomes his zahir, as he of self-discovery. But he does not see any conflict millions and millions of copies,” says Coelho, who can’t obsesses about finding her. In the process, he finds between this and the antimaterialist philosophy he help adding, “65 million, 65 million copies…so I’m very himself on the road toward self-discovery, as he meets a espouses. “I’ve made a lot of money out of my books, important. This is my personal history, no? Instead I young Kazakhstan mystic and friend of Esther’s and which makes me travel with less things — only a credit should think, ‘Oh, I have to move forward.’” learns to let go of his past. card!” he quips, by phone from his mill house in the — Vanessa Lawrence

The sultry Miami heat on Sunday meant nearly everyone at the Riding High VMAs was showing some skin. But while a BOIS LE ROI, France — Horseplay may be number of indiscreet frowned upon within most famous families, starlets left little to but a number of European royals and the imagination, celebrities engage in it regularly — at with bras showing some of the chicest stables around. and skirts slit up to Princess Charlotte of Monaco and other there, Kirsten blue-blooded offspring travel to Espace Dunst managed to Rozier in the verdant Bois Le Roi, near get the look just the Fontainebleau forest one hour south of Charlotte Casiraghi right. The young Paris. There, Marcel Rozier, who took actress, who home the gold medal for show jumping at the Netherlands. “I only train students who presented at the the 1976 Olympics and the silver at the 1968 Marcel have already obtained a certain level of show in part to Olympics, trains riders from across the globe in Rozier riding [expertise],” says Wylde, who still takes promote her new show jumping — one of the sport’s three major part in competitions himself. flick disciplines. “Princess Charlotte is passionate about it “It’s an elite sport,” agrees Henk Nooren, show- “Elizabethtown,” and very determined,” Rozier says of the royal charge. jumping coach and trainer of the Swedish Olympic costarring Orlando The ringmaster notes, as he counsels an elegant rider Team. Touted as one of Europe’s best equestrian Bloom, chose a toward a jump, that the equestrian tradition has long held a trainers, Nooren purchased a new farm last winter in blousy black and place in European countries. “France as well as Germany Clermont-Sous-Huy, . He began work on the new metallic frock from and the Netherlands have always had a strong horse facilities this month. Chloé’s fall culture,” he explains. “There are families here that have had Nearby, in Fleurus, Belgium, the renowned Brazilian collection and paired the equestrian culture in their blood for hundreds of years.” rider and winner of two gold medals and one silver it with round-toed They’ve likely had money running through their veins too, medal in the Pan-American Games, Nelson Pessoa, has pumps that for serious horse riding is not an inexpensive hobby. Rozier also set up an equestrian center, called the Haras de countered organizes an annual auction to sell trained horses, where a Ligny. He runs it with his son, Rodrigo — among the top- the sexiness show-jumping champion can go for 2 million to 3 million ranked riding professionals worldwide. of the Chic euros ($2.4 million to $3.6 million), and elite equestrian Both have worked with champions as well as dress’ trainers are sought after to give private lessons costing some celebrities such as Athina Onassis Roussel. But the deep V- of the 2,000 euros to 2,500 euros ($2,430 to $3,030) a pop. trainers agree that good riding doesn’t always stem from neck. Too “Some of the wealthiest people in Europe and America a socialite upbringing. bad the are involved in the sport,” says Peter Wylde, a native For instance, Nooren grew up riding horses with his other Week Bostonian who flies to France twice a month to train with father on a farm, while Marcel Rozier learned the sport celebrities and Edouard de Rothschild. Wylde led the U.S. show-jumping while working at a stable. “One day, I was finally given songbirds didn’t have team to the silver medal in the Olympic Games in the opportunity to sit on a horse and four years later I Dunst’s fashion foresight.

last year and now “my dance card is full,” he jokes. His was in the Olympic Games,” he says. FARRELL/PMC BILLY PHOTO BY stable, called Stall Lenhsen, is based outside of Roermond, — Emilie Marsh ROZIER PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; CASIRAGHI BY BENAINOUS ALAIN/ GAMMA BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; CASIRAGHI ROZIER PHOTO BY

6 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005

Hurley’s cotton hoodie and .

Good Sports SAN DIEGO — While the Action Sports Retail expo has long been the premier place for skate, surf and street brands, the trade show has evolved. Labels that once excelled in the use of Neoprene and nylon are now known for a broader range of sportswear, such as soft-edged tops and chic skirts. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Billabong’s cotton tank top and shorts.

Cardboard Robot’s cotton dress and cotton T-shirt.

Nylon jacket, cotton top and jacket and belt, all from The Hidden Talents Lifetime Sparked by demand from retailers hunting for the Collective. next big brand, ASR sought out lesser-known companies this year, showcasing them in a program called the Gold Box Mission. Here, WWD highlights a few of the emerging labels.

The Lifetime Collective Started: In 2002 by Reid Stewart and Trevor Flemming in Vancouver, British Columbia. Vibe: The line has an eclectic and sporty feel. Spring line: Separates. Wholesale: $10 screened T- to $100 twill jackets.

Cardboard Robot Started: In 1998 by Gulf War vet Mason Brown and his partner, Rob Dubar, in Long Beach, Calif. Ezekiel’s cotton dress. Known for: Collaborations with street artists such as Ed Templeton. Spring line: More feminine pieces, such as the one- piece Skurthoodie. Wholesale: $14 T-shirts to $55 screened and embellished hoodies.

Aztec Rose Started: In 1993 by Josie Lemma; from Australia, the ANNIE ING/CELESTINE; FASHION ASSISTANT: ALICE SUH; STYLED BY MELISSA MAGSAYSAY ALICE SUH; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ANNIE ING/CELESTINE; FASHION company recently opened offices in Pasadena, Calif. Known for: Swimwear and fashion basic tops. Spring line: Denim, yarn stitching, military details. Wholesale: $12 swim separates and screened T-shirts Aztec Rose’s Aztec Rose’s to $45 denim jeans. cotton blazer and tank top. and tank top. Matix’s cotton tank and jacket and cotton denim jeans. PHOTOS BY JEREMY GOLDBERG; MODELS: LENA BEDOYAN/L.A. MODELS, CAITLIN GOETZ/NEXT; HAIR BY IAN JAMES/EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS; MAKEUP BY ARTISTS; IAN JAMES/EXCLUSIVE HAIR BY MODELS, CAITLIN GOETZ/NEXT; JEREMY GOLDBERG; MODELS: LENA BEDOYAN/L.A. PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 WWD.COM Denim Dish Wrangler Scavenger Hunt as Cool as Ice Wrangler is serving up an exclusive denim line — on ice. The French division of the VF Corp. brand has taken the quest to find the ultimate jeans to a new level by or- ganizing a citywide treasure hunt for 50 pairs of exclusive jeans encased in gigantic blocks of ice. The first ice block was discovered Wednesday in Paris, lodged in the roof of a car as if it had fallen from the sky. Passersby chiseled away at the ice in order to retrieve their free jeans. The one-of-a-kind denim collection, Mudd Adds Executives dubbed Wanted, for both women and men, will appear in undisclosed locations around the city’s most trendy shopping spots until Tuesday. “The hunt creates a desire to have,” said Daniel Sauge, director of VF Corp. in France. “Part of the desire to For Billion-Dollar Push own a pair of jeans from an exclusive denim line comes from the difficulty in finding it.” Wanted jeans will not be sold in stores, but Sauge expects the campaign to be an icebreaker beyond the liter- Mudd jeans is beefing up its executive ranks to han- al one, introducing consumers to Wrangler’s other high-end denim lines. Wrangler launched a similar Wanted dle its growing roster of brands and help ready the marketing campaign in Germany earlier this year. company for expansion in Asian markets. “[The Wanted campaign] gives Wrangler’s premium denim an exclusive appeal,” he said. Jay Gorman has come on board as president of Wrangler’s B.Y. collection, an upscale denim line for women and men, is slated to launch this fall in select sales for the New York-based junior denim company. stores around Europe. The B.Y. line is Wrangler’s Gorman comes to Mudd after serving as sales man- most fashion-forward European line, with added Wrangler’s cool approach ager at Dollhouse and Jou Jou. styling features, intricate washes and more modern to upscale denim. Jeans “He’s going to have a major impact on merchan- fits. It will retail for around 200 euros, or about $244 at were encased in ice. dising,” predicted Dick Gilbert, Mudd USA’s chief current exchange rates. executive officer. Meanwhile, Blue Bell, the brand’s high-end her- Gorman has signed a three-year contract to han- itage collection that launched last year, blends dle the Mudd and Delicious Curves by Mudd lines, European design and Japanese denim for rigid denim in addition to working with the company’s private looks in women’s and men’s. label business. Gilbert said he was looking for some- —Emilie Marsh one with expertise in dealing with retailers who could revamp the company’s sales department. “I needed somebody who was savvy and knows the industry to come in and take charge,” said Gilbert. The new position was necessitated by the compa- ny’s growth plans. Tack Fat Group International, a Hong Kong-based swimwear and jeans manufactur- er, bought a majority stake in Mudd in 2004 and is looking to transform the company into a $1 billion business in two years. Reaching that goal will re- quire more than doubling sales, as 2004 volume was about $475 million. The firm has several new lines hitting stores this fall. In a bid to undercut the premium jeans seg- ment, it will introduce Piama, a young contempo- rary brand retailing for $88 to $94. The company’s first men’s line, Red Mukk, will retail for about $48. The firm’s most recent introduction is Delicious Curves by Mudd. The line is intended to offer jun- iors with curvy figures affordable but fashionable fits for fall. The new line will also feature the com- pany’s first celebrity-driven launch campaign, with 24-year-old R&B singer Ashanti signing on to be the face of the brand. Delicious will retail for $38 to $42. Management is also gearing up to open more than 50 of its own stores in Asia and brought on ex- ecutives familiar with the market. In June, Mudd hired Terrice Cheung as president of retail opera- tions. Cheung had previously worked as head of marketing and store operations with Giordano, a DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY Hong Kong-based retailer with more than 1,500 stores located primarily in Asian countries. “This isn’t the end,” said Gilbert. “We’ll be look- ing at many more people soon, especially on the re- tail side.” Fidelity Heads South for Fall —Ross Tucker Fidelity, a Vancouver-based denim line, is headed south. This month, the company began shipping to U.S. specialty bou- Mudd introduced three new lines tiques such as E Street Denim in Chicago, Traffic in Los Angeles and for fall, including Delicious. National Jeans, with locations along the East Coast. Fidelity, which launched in January 2004, is sold in 35 specialty boutiques in Canada. “The American market is where you stand or fall,” said Jason Trotzuk, designer and president. The collection consists of six core styles, including boot-cut, flare and straight-leg choices. “I don’t think women like to change their silhouettes as much as we think they do,” Trotzuk said. “I think women like to stay true to their styling.” Trotzuk said the fit, fabric and finish — or what he calls, “The three Fs” — are important, but equally vital to the success of the line is the relationship with retailers. “I think there’s been a glut of jeans in the marketplace for the past year and a half now,” he said. “I think retailers now are being forced to make a more educated and calculated pick. You have to ed- ucate the salespeople and be loyal to your retailers. We pick stores that are in the business of working with denim.” In his first year in the U.S. market, Trotzuk predicts his wholesale volume will reach $1 million. Fidelity jeans are made from Japanese and Italian denim. Seams on the thigh are brought toward the front to give a slimmer appear- ance. Darts are added to the backside so it cups and holds, and the knee has been extended lower, giving the appearance of a longer leg. The wholesale price range of the denim is between $68 and $100. “Jeans should last and suit your lifestyle,” Trotzuk said. Additionally, Trotzuk has set up the Fidelity Indigo Foundation. Special denim styles will be introduced periodically and a portion of the proceeds will support funds such as the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation. “If you have a vehicle to make things better, you should just do it,” Trotzuk said. — Lauren DeCarlo Fidelity’s Dahlia style. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 9 WWD.COM The Beat Getting to the Core of Apple Bottoms NEW YORK — Apple Bottoms is widely known for the shapely fit of its jeans, but the Shrug with tube the customer may have originally been an “urban company now aims to be known for a host of other products, too. top, by Apple customer,” but she’s outgrown that classification. In the past six months, the brand, launched in 2002 by Cornelius Haynes Jr., better Bottoms. “She’s a little more dressy and not so street,” known as Nelly, the hip-hop artist who hails from St. Louis, has signed licensing deals Antoine said. “She’s definitely less logo-driven to produce jewelry, handbags, footwear and accessories such as iPod and BlackBerry now, and she’s embracing her body.” cases. The company is discussing plans to launch swimwear, and a fragrance. In addition to the body-hugging denim, whole- The deals were brokered through Check Group LLC, a licensing company based here. saling in the range of $28.50 to $43, the collection “We’re an empire now,” said Shauna features slinky tops, ranging in wholesale prices Miller, licensing director for Apple Bottoms. Yomi Martin, with a model in from $15 to $25, and snug shrugs and sleek outer- Ian Kelly, chief operating officer, said he Apple Bottoms jeans and top. wear that wholesale from $43 to $54. predicts the wholesale volume of the brand to Martin said D.E.M.O is the brand’s “biggest” reach upward of $100 million in the next year. account, followed by Macy’s East and West, but a Apple Bottoms plans to roll out in Canada chunk of its sales come from its Web site, apple- and Europe within the next few months. bottoms.com. Web sales increased 65 percent “The Apple Bottoms woman has grown up from last October to November after Apple and we’ve grown with her,” said chief execu- Bottoms was mentioned on “The Oprah Winfrey tive officer Yomi Martin, who’s also Nelly’s Show” in November as one of “Oprah’s Favorite cousin. “We’re trying to be a brand for all Things.” In the first few days after the mention on women.” As part of their mission, Martin said the show, the site sold one pair of Apple Bottom he’s considering entering the couture market. jeans per minute. The wave continued: from “We’ll do something like that famous J.Lo November to December, there was a 49 percent dress,” he said, referencing the memorable increase in online sales. green Versace dress Jennifer Lopez wore to Online sales from January to August this year compared with the same period in the Grammy Awards in 2000. 2004 are up 55 percent. “Apple Bottoms is steadily trending up,” said Keith Foy, According to Martin, the entrance into nu- head of new business development for Efashionsolutions.com, a Web marketer and merous categories elevates the brand from the retailer for Apple Bottoms and 12 other brands — more than half of them catering urban category, a classification he thinks is on to the urban, hip-hop market. the verge of becoming obsolete in today’s fash- Just how much creative influence does Nelly really have over the line? “Nelly ion vernacular. comes to us with his ideas. See, he gets to do all the fun stuff. He can call us at 4 a.m. “Fashion is fashion. Breaking it into seg- and say, ‘Can we make our jeans do this?’ But we try not to hinder our designers’ cre- ments and calling something ‘urban’ puts a ativity. We aren’t saying we know women’s fashion like they do,” Martin said. glass ceiling on what you can do,” Martin said This summer, Nelly had his hands full with another fashion venture. The three- at the Apple Bottoms showroom on the 15th time Grammy Award winner inked a deal with Reebok to partner on a collection of floor at 1385 Broadway here. The company is men’s apparel, footwear and accessories planned for spring. Women’s merchandise headquartered in St. Louis. may follow, but plans aren’t definite. Dorothy Antoine, the design director, said —Lauren DeCarlo Made in Minneapolis Katrina Blindsides Kimora NEW YORK — Joy Teiken designed her first piece, a hat MIAMI BEACH — It couldn’t have been scripted any better. The MTV Video for her mother, almost out of necessity. Music Awards were rolling into town bringing with it a heavy roster of A-list “It was 1989 and my mother was dying of breast can- celebrities and musicians. Looking to officially launch the new Baby Phat fall cer,” Teiken said. “So I made her a hat to wear to my ad campaign, Kimora Lee Simmons planned a huge bash for Saturday night at brother’s wedding.” Following her mother’s death three the Forge, the restaurant and celeb hangout, just north of South Beach. weeks later, Teiken received her degree in teaching from But Katrina had other plans for Kimora. the University of Minnesota, joined the Peace Corps and Hurricane-related flight problems kept the hostess and her family grounded in spent four years teaching in Botswana. Design was the Los Angeles, and competition from a dozen high-profile parties kept the throngs furthest thing from her mind — until she returned home. down in South Beach. And just when it couldn’t get any worse, traffic on Collins “When I came back to Minneapolis, I began teaching Avenue intensified when Death Row Records head Marion “Suge” Knight was at an arts high school. A bunch of girls in the school shot at the Shore Club at a party hosted by hip-hop “It” boy Kanye West. wanted to start a course, so I learned how All of which made for a more intimate party at the Forge. Guests of Star to sew and got really interested in fashion,” Teiken said. magazine, co-sponsors of the event, and fans of Baby Phat nibbled on treats, From there, she launched Joynoelle in 2003, and has ordered drinks from the dancing bartenders and partied into the wee hours. since built her brand into what she expects will be a $1 Footage from Baby Phat’s fall runway show was on constant loop, and guests million wholesale business by the end of 2006. happily spritzed themselves with Kimora’s new fragrance, Goddess, and “I just did what came naturally. If a pattern-maker ever spied the new print ad. saw how I did this, she’d probably laugh,” Teiken said. Shot by Brett Ratner, film director and friend of the couple, the ad takes Her specialty has been creating one-of-a-kind on the film noir tone of the flick “Kill Bill” with a menacing Asian setting. and coats influenced by decades such as the Thirties and Kimora, front-and-center, is clad in silver and surrounded by an intimidating Forties. The retro-inspired pieces accentuate the female A one-of-a- group and, of course, her daughters, who’ve become Baby Phat ad staples. form without revealing too much. “I use classic lines and kind silk The ad started running in the September issues of magazines such as try to make the female form look stunning,” she said. “It’s dress by Harper’s Bazaar, Vibe, YRB, Elle Girl and Glamour. really about the details and the yummy fabrics.” Teiken Joynoelle. Black Buddafly, a glamorous trio signed to Russell Simmons’ Music Group, uses fabrics such as silk, velvet and fur. She also uses tap- took to the stage in sparkly Baby estries and vintage fabrics. Baby Phat’s fall ad. Phat heels. The group’s mem- The name of the collection, Joynoelle, combines Teiken’s first and middle names. bers, Sophie, Amena and Jazz, Dresses wholesale between $400 and $2,250, and coats wholesale between $400 and hail from Hamburg via New $2,000. She has a showroom in Minneapolis, where she meets buyers by appointment. York, and performed their song Joynoelle is available in Habit, a specialty boutique in Chicago, but she’s hoping it “Rock-A-Bye.” lands in high-end department stores and specialty boutiques nationwide. Forge owner Shareef Malnik “My vision has never changed,” Teiken said. “I think the idea of one-of-a-kind and limit- said he wished his friends, ed-run pieces is incredibly worthwhile and could be an effective avenue for designers with- Russell and Kimora, could have out financial backing who would otherwise not be able to appear in larger retail outlets.” made the party, but decided the Today, the collection consists of about 40 to 50 one-of-a-kind pieces, such as a two- show must go on. “We had a lot piece suit made from a vintage kimono or red-sashed halter dress. But Teiken says she of people who wanted to have a knows if she wants to be successful, she’ll have to consider producing small runs of good time and didn’t want to get her designs. The process is already under way: She’s hired a handful of seamstresses caught up in the South Beach to help with the sewing and she’s on the hunt for a New York showroom. masses,” said Malnik, noting “Each piece, for me, really starts with the fabric,” she said. “I know I’m going to that he’ll see the couple on Nov. have to do more than one piece eventually, but I want to do small runs. I’m afraid that 18 at the Make-A-Wish Ball at if I do too much, the pieces might lose their personality.” the Intercontinental Hotel in For this Midwestern designer, her creations are, admittedly, very un-Midwestern. Miami. He serves as chairman “Midwestern women don’t really like to be noticed that much, and my pieces definitely of the event, and Russell and bring attention,” Teiken said. Kimora are the guests of honor. —L.D. —Ellen Forman APPLE BOTTOMS PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO APPLE BOTTOMS PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 WWD.COM Active LifestyleX Fila Getting Back Its Stroke By Melanie Kletter NEW YORK — Fila may not be the apparel sponsor at the U.S. Open this year, but the company is making a se- ries of moves to regain its stature in the athletic arena, including opening a store on Madison Avenue here. The 4,000-square-foot shop, located between 43rd and 44th streets, is the first of some 10 to 15 stores Fila plans to open around the country in the next year. “We are reintroducing ourselves to consumers,” Steve Wynne, president and chief executive officer of Sport Brands International, which now owns Fila, said in an in- terview. “This is a way for us to show people what we are doing and consumers to see the range of our offerings.” Since joining Fila last year, Wynne, along with his team, has embarked on a series of initiatives to revive the brand, including scaling back and cleaning up distribu- tion and updating product with more upscale fabrics and sophisticated designs, as well as launching a lifestyle label called Filativa. They also decided to end Fila’s ap- parel sponsorship of the U.S. Open, after more than 20 years of its affiliation with the tournament. Fila now has annual wholesale sales of about $800 million, Wynne said. The new store, which had a soft opening Left: The footwear presentation at the new Fila store on Madison Avenue. Here, the view inside. in August, showcases the compa- ny’s large variety of branded mer- Apparel occupies the majority the last outlet locations were shuttered more than a chandise, including perform- of the store. The company sells decade ago. Bloom said the company is close to signing ance and lifestyle footwear and products for activities such as leases in locations such as San Francisco; Coral Gables apparel, as well as socks and running, yoga and tennis, and and Boca Raton, Fla.; Las Vegas; Charlotte, N.C.; and La accessories such as hats, bags will begin rolling out a golf line Jolla, Calif., and all new stores will have the same de- and sunglasses. this fall. It’s also testing a new sign direction as the Manhattan location. Designed by Italian archi- high-end line called Fila Biella Wynne said plans to revive Fila are moving forward. tect Giorgio Borruso, the store that features sportswear in lux- After a few years of financial problems, the brand was has an elegant and spacious ury fabrics such as leather, sold to a team led by former Fila management in 2003. aura. The wall designs, transpar- cashmere and silk. Some price Wynne joined in March 2004. ent product displays and even the points for these upscale products “We are finding retail partners who are willing to benches are curved to convey a go above $1,000. Most of the take a chance on us, and while it’s been tough, the reac- feeling of motion. Borruso used a footwear and apparel sells for about tion to the line and our new direction has been posi- number of special touches in the store, $40 to $200, said Sheryl Bloom, Fila’s tive,” he said. “We have focused a lot on cleaning up dis- such as mirrored panels covering managing director of global retail. tribution and on product.” columns to create a feeling of depth, and pads Housed below Fila’s new global corporate Footwear has been an area of focus this year, he noted. on the benches that are made from the same materi- headquarters, the store will be a place to test trends “The changes we are making in apparel will be felt als used in the footwear. and items, Wynne noted. Bloom anticipates the store’s more in the spring 2006 season,” Wynne said. “The space is designed to unite elegance, lightness and sales will be about $1,000 to $1,500 per square foot annual- Fila is also taking a series of steps to expand its busi- grace with the heart and core of sport,” Borruso said. ly, which would lead to revenues of more than $4 million. ness internationally, and has signed distribution deals Footwear is set up along a white lacquered wall and While the area isn’t exactly known as a shopping desti- in China, Russia and Japan, Wynne noted. includes performance styles for women and men, as well nation, Bloom said the company feels it is a good location Wynne, who used to run America, said he be- as products from the Filativa subbrand that are de- since there is a significant amount of foot traffic from near- lieves the recent consolidation in the industry, includ- signed to appeal to younger customers. There is also an by Grand Central Terminal. Other retailers in the area in- ing the acquisition of Reebok by Adidas, will present area where shoppers can create customized footwear clude Coach, Brook Bros. and J. Crew. The store will be growth areas for other brands. under the new Fila Adatto program, reflecting the grow- feted at an opening party next Thursday, where Borruso is “Many stores aren’t reducing the amount of vendors,” ing trend toward customization in retail. A computer scheduled to speak about the store and his designs. he said. “We see more opportunities for smaller players scans the foot to determine the accurate arch and insole. Fila had U.S. stores in the Eighties and Nineties, but such as Fila.” The Holidays Come Early at Mason’s Tennis Market By Marianne Hayes to his store’s longevity. The 1,300-square- brands and oversees the fashion direction. foot boutique carries brands such as Nike, “The Open is like the red carpet now,” NEW YORK — The U.S. Open is like Polo, Fila and Adidas, as well as smaller Dana said. “Players are really stylish and Christmas at the end of summer for Mark labels including Tail, On The Line and everyone wants to see what they’re wearing.” Mason, owner of Mason’s Tennis Market Kaelin. It serves tennis fans of all ages, Mason initially opened on 57th Street shop in Midtown here. from children to seniors. and Seventh Avenue in 1975 at the height “We look forward to With women making up 75 of a tennis boom. The sport picked up even this time every year percent of apparel sales, more steam in the years that followed as because we are very busy Mason wishes more tennis got more national TV exposure and these two weeks and the designers would focus on media attention, thanks to colorful stars Open brings in our cus- creating tennis collections. like John McEnroe and Andre Agassi. The tomers from all over the “There’s such a big mar- store moved in October 1999 to its current world,” said Mason. ket for it,” he said. “We are location between Park and Madison At a time when big looking for new brands.” Avenues. Mason said he isn’t interested in sports retailers are open- Top sellers at the store opening other stores, and has seen sales ing more stores and small- Mark Mason with his daughters now include short skirts growth of about 10 percent each year. er players are being gob- Dana, left, and Lindsey, right. from Nike, and more peo- The boutique features tenniswear that bled up or squeezed out, ple are snapping up dress- sells for $40 to $200, including warm-up suits, Mason’s, celebrating its 30th anniversary es similar to the ones Maria Sharapova has sneakers and separates. Apparel accounts this year, maintains its niche by offering been wearing during the Open and at other for about half of the business, while the rest innovative products and hands-on service. tournaments this year, said Dana Mason, is driven by footwear and equipment. The store, which has seven employ- Mark’s daughter and the women’s apparel “For the store’s 50th anniversary, I ees, generates more than $1 million in buyer. Apparel in bright colors also contin- hope to still be playing tennis and work- annual sales. ues to be robust, reflecting recent trends in ing every day,” added Mason, who is in Mason’s Tennis Market is a staple An avid tennis player himself, Mason the industry, she noted. Dana, who is 22, his mid-50s. “There are no retirement inin thethe ManhattanManhattan tennistennis arena.arena.

said keeping his business small is the key scours the market for trends and new plans for me. This is my retirement.” TURNER DAVID MASON BY MITRA; ROBERT FILA PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 11 WWD.COM

RAY OF SUNSHINE: It looks like the magazine business may have another Rosie O’Donnell to contend with. Rachael Ray, the MEMO PAD cookbook author and Food Network host of Tiffany Net Sparkles shows like “30 Minute Meals” and “$40 a Rachael Ray Day,” is said to be micromanaging the By Vicki M. Young Aaron said while store traffic was somewhat development of her new magazine at lower than the prior year, the conversion rate Reader’s Digest Association. NEW YORK — Driven by “exceptionally strong” was higher. “Our customer analysis indicated Every Day With Rachael Ray launches sales of high-ticket items, Tiffany & Co. reported similar growth in sales to local customers and as a bimonthly on Oct. 25, with 10 issues a 52.8 jump in second-quarter earnings on a dou- tourists, although the growth in our New York planned for next year, but even before the ble-digit sales gain. The luxury specialty retailer flagship sales came from higher foreign and first copy hits newsstands, two high-level also raised its earnings guidance for 2005. domestic tourist spending,” he said. staffers have exited the magazine. Kitty As a result, shares of the company soared Among the branch stores that posted large Morgan, who resigned as a senior editor at 12.3 percent to close at $37.42. percentage increases were those in Departures in March to serve as editor of For the three months ended July 31, income Washington, D.C.; Charlotte, N.C.; Coral Gables the new title, apparently only lasted a few skyrocketed to $50.6 months. She’s been replaced by Silvana million, or 35 cents a

PHOTO BY WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY Nardone, who was executive editor under diluted share, from Morgan. Also out prior to the launch is design director Lucy Sisman, the original $33.1 million, or 22 art director of Allure. Siobhan Hardy now holds the design post at Every Day. cents, in the same year- While most celebrities who dabble in magazines — see Oprah Winfrey and ago quarter. Sales rose Martha Stewart — are only listed as editorial directors on their mastheads, Ray 10.5 percent to $526.7 has ambitiously assumed the title and responsibilities of editor in chief and is million from $476.6 mil- said to be teaching herself the magazine business as she goes. “I think that’s lion. The firm said a fair statement. She’s very involved. She’s contributing on lots of different same-store sales levels,” said a company spokeswoman, clearly considering that an asset. And, increased by 6 percent like many of her more famous forebears, it looks likely that Ray too will be in the U.S., which com- lending her face to the covers of her magazine. — Sara James prises a 6 percent growth rate in branch TABLOID TV: Every year, fewer and fewer Americans bother to read a store sales and a 3 per- Colorful gemstone rings, with diamonds in newspaper. So how do you get them to watch a TV show about what it’s like to cent increase in its New platinum settings, all available at Tiffany & Co. work at one? Apparently by playing up the fact that the the paper in question, York flagship sales. U.S. the New York Daily News, is “going through a rabid, ugly death match” with retail sales were up 8 its main rival, the Post. That’s how the Bravo network is billing “Tabloid percent to $267.7 million. In Japan, same-store and Orlando, Fla.; Beverly Hills and Palm Wars,” a new “docusoap” (i.e., reality series) set to air next spring. Bravo has sales rose by 1 percent in local currency. Desert, Calif., and Scottsdale, Ariz. committed to six one-hour episodes and shooting, which has been going on all For the six months, net income rose 29.6 In terms of U.S. merchandising, Aaron said summer, is set to wrap up within the next few weeks. percent to $90.6 million, or 62 cents a diluted the company saw strength in most jewelry cate- “Tabloid Wars” is meant to illustrate the excitement of chasing scoops, but for share, from $69.9 million, or 47 cents, a year gories and at most price points. “Jewelry growth now much of the drama is behind the scenes. The show’s executive producers — ago. Sales gained 11 percent to $1.04 billion was driven by an increase in unit volume as Jim Deutch, Belisa Balaban and Ted Skillman of Hearst Entertainment — are still from $933.6 million. well as a higher average price. In addition, working out which Daily News staffers will feature prominently in the episodes During the second quarter, the company from a price stratification perspective, we saw and which will wind up as casualties of editing. Among those who spent the most began reporting its U.S. business gift sales with- solid growth in virtually every price strata with time in front of the camera was gossip reporter Hudson Morgan — but, notably, in its U.S. retail channel instead of its direct exceptionally strong growth in sales from $3,000 not his boss, “Lowdown” columnist Lloyd Grove. A source who was present for marketing channel. The direct marketing chan- to $10,000, and in sales over $50,000,” he said. much of the shooting said the producers “became very enamored of Hud,” nel in the quarter gained 5 percent to $30.4 mil- He said the results reflect improvement in feeling that he was a “young, hip kind of guy,” a type that is not necessarily lion, due mostly to increases in the amounts Japan. Aaron said the company is pursuing a found in abundance at the News. But where does that leave Grove — who is said spent for e-commerce and catalogue orders. number of initiatives to strengthen its business by sources who know him to harbor ambitions of a full-time TV gig? “I’m International retail sales in the second quarter there, including accelerated product develop- delighted,” he said. “Why wouldn’t I be?” Perhaps because many people would rose 12 percent to $202.1 million. ment and targeted marketing as well as public be reluctant to be eclipsed by their own apprentices? “Only If they were insecure Michael Kowalski, chairman and chief execu- relations support. and had trouble with a smart, talented person getting the attention he deserves.” tive officer, said in a statement, “These quarter- Product-wise, sales in some ways paralleled A source who speaks to Grove frequently said he believed Grove’s words of ly results are encouraging and we believe well trends in the U.S., Aaron said. Fine jewelry support for his protégé were sincere, noting that Morgan has taken Grove’s part position Tiffany for a successful second half.” sales were up due to the success of collections in various feuds, both within the News and against his rivals at the Post. “Hud Kowalski said the company upped its expec- such as Tiffany Jazz Voile and Rose. Also doing is in his camp. Lloyd thinks of Hud as his ambassador.” — Jeff Bercovici tation for full-year 2005 earnings per share to a well were sales of new diamond and platinum range of $1.55 to $1.65 a diluted share from pre- items. Sales in the fashion gold category accel- vious guidance of $1.45 to $1.55. erated in the quarter, while total silver jewelry Mark Aaron, vice president of investor rela- sales in Japan declined slightly in the period. tions, said during a conference call to Wall Tiffany also has another sales category — Street, “U.S. retail sales rose 8 percent in the which rose 43 percent — that it calls “other,” Callanen Files Antitrust Suit quarter, primarily due to an increase in the one where wholesale sales of rough diamonds By Jennifer Hirshlag average transaction size. Essentially, higher represented the majority of the increase. jewelry unit volume was virtually offset by a Included too are sales from Little NEW YORK — Callanen International Inc. filed a lawsuit Wednesday volume decline in accessories and tableware.” stores, which rose 6 percent in the quarter. against Fossil Inc. in the U.S. District Court for the Central District of California regarding Fossil’s potential deal with Guess Inc. The suit alleges that Fossil has violated federal antitrust laws, creat- ed unfair state competition and interfered with Callanen’s contractual relationship in regard to the proposed license agreement with Guess. WWD reported on Monday that Guess was finalizing a long-term Fossil in Deal to Produce Diesel Jewelry agreement with Fossil to produce its watches beginning in January 2007. The agreement would end a 21-year relationship between Guess By Luisa Zargani Fossil and Diesel “are young and dynamic and Callanen, a Norwalk, Conn.-based watch manufacturer and sub- companies with a product offering different sidiary of Timex Corp., Middlebury, Conn. MILAN — Diesel said Wednesday it has from any other, and the jewelry collection will In the complaint, Callanen said, “Despite its leading position in the signed a licensing agreement with Fossil Inc. capture this spirit.” fashion watch market, and despite the ongoing contractual relationship for the production and distribution of its new Two years ago, Diesel ventured into the between Callanen and Guess, Fossil sought to acquire the exclusive jewelry collection. jewelry sector with a small collection pro- Guess license for itself and thwart Callanen’s and Guess’ efforts to The license will last five years and is re- duced by Zancan and Pianegonda that was reach agreement on the terms of a new license agreement.” newable for another five. This is the second exclusively distributed at the company’s Frank Sherer, senior vice president and general counsel of license Fossil worked on in August. Last brand stores. Callanen, claimed the deal would “wrap 60 percent of the fashion week, WWD reported the company is close to “We think it is time for a new era to start watch market around Fossil’s wrist.” a deal to produce timepieces for Guess Inc., in this market, with less costly and more cre- The lawsuit is seeking injunctive relief barring Fossil from produc- taking over from Timex Corp. ative products,” Renzo Rosso, founder and ing and selling watches under license from Guess and to award The first Diesel jewelry collection under president of Diesel, said in a statement. Callanen treble damages. the Fossil license is expected to be intro- Fossil already produces Diesel’s watch Executives at Guess and Fossil were not available for comment duced at the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery collection, Diesel Time Frames, launched in Wednesday. show in Basel, Switzerland, in April, and will 1999. Fossil also holds licenses for watches Guess watches rank among the top-performing brands for Timex, comprise about 80 pieces. The collection will with , Michael Kors, Burberry, selling between four million and five million pieces annually and retail at Diesel’s more than 180 brand stores DKNY and Emporio Armani. The company pulling in an estimated $160 million at wholesale a year, according to and selected multibrand and jewelry retail- owns the Fossil, Relic, Michele, MW Michele industry sources. ers around the world. It will range in price and Zodiac watch brands. The agreement between Guess and Fossil reportedly includes a tar- from $35 to $700. Sales at Diesel for 2004 amounted to $1.25 get of $1.25 million in annual wholesale volume. Under the deal, Fossil Harold Brooks, president of Fossil Watches billion. There were no sales projections would form a separate company for the Guess business. & Fashion Brands, said in a statement that given for the new jewelry collection. Spring into the FAST Lane.

WWDFAST Coated Stock Magazine: October 20 Close: September 15 PHOTO BY ALEX FREUND PHOTO BY

WWD editors will look at what’s hot for Spring 2006 in sportswear and denim. Offering authoritative industry information from editors around the world, WWDFast gives you the inside scoop. From contemporary, juniors’, street and denim to surf, skate, active, retail and textiles, WWDFast brings you hard market substance you can’t find anywhere else.

For more information, contact Gus Floris, associate publisher (New York), at 212-630-4636; Deborah Levy, senior account manager (West Coast), at 323-951-1803; Elizabeth Haynes, European advertising director (Paris), at +33-1-44-51-13-03, or Elena DeGiuli, account executive (Milan), at +39-02-7600-3926. WWDMediaWorldwide® WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 13 WWD.COM Summer is coming to an end, but that doesn’t mean playtime has to be over until next year. New York-based Scarborough Research has TheWWDList provided a ranking of leisure and lifestyle activities most favored by women ages 18 and over. The activities listed are based on input from clients and marketplace factors. Shopping is nowhere to be found in the top 10, but that’s because Scarborough includes that activity in a retail-focused section of its study. One interesting note: Ladies of Leisure The majority of the top 10 can be done in groups or with friends, making them as much about socializing as fitness or charity. The top 10 pastimes favored by women ages 18 and older. — Cecily Hall

GARDENING Percentage of women who cited this as a favorite activity: 52 Martha Stewart has helped to make this pastime a little more glamorous — and a little less of a chore. Her company, Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, published “Gardening 101: Learn How to Plan, Plant and Maintain a Garden.” The guide teaches readers to become successful gardeners 1 one step at a time — illustrations included. Upscale retailers Smith & Hawken, Restoration Hardware and even ultrahip Anthropologie cater to the trend by selling various gardening tools and accessories.

SWIMMING Percentage: 36 Women who are interested in swimming in the confines of their own backyards will have to plunk down some serious cash to do their laps: A traditional inground pool costs a hefty $15,000 (national average). In terms of fashion, Elizabeth Hurley has entered the swim race with her own swimwear 2 collection, and Jessica Simpson has also jumped on the bandwagon. The pop superstar will soon release a contemporary ready-to-wear collection that

G BY PATRIK GIARDINO/CORBIS PATRIK G BY is expected to encompass swimwear, sunglasses, handbags and lingerie, as well as other apparel and accessories.

VOLUNTEER WORK Percentage: 32 Of the 64.5 million people who performed volunteer work at least once from September 2003 to September 2004, 58 percent were women, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. The bureau also reported that women volunteered at a higher rate than men across all age groups, education levels and 3 other demographics. Some of the most popular reported volunteer activities for the time period included fund-raising, coaching and tutoring. Other well-known activities include volunteering for the American Red Cross, at a hospital or for an elderly program, such as Meals on Wheels.

SEWING-CRAFTS Percentage: 30 Women who love arts and crafts or sewing can’t miss stopping by a Michaels store. Headquartered in Irving, Tex., Michaels is currently the nation's largest specialty retailer of arts and crafts materials, having grown from a chain of 16 stores in 1984 to 870 stores across the U.S. today. The retailer sells 4 yarn and needle products and even offers knitting and crocheting classes for beginners. Other crafting courses include cake and basket decorating.

PHOTOGRAPHY Percentage: 28 Female photographers such as Dorothea Lange and Annie Leibovitz have created some of the most fascinating images in history and today’s pop 5 culture. If women who carry their digital cameras everywhere are ever interested in photography as more than just a hobby, they can potentially make a pretty penny off of weddings. WWD reported in April that photography for a wedding on average costs $1,663 — and 46 percent higher for couples who tie the knot.

BOWLING * Percentage: 20 What bowling are available for women? Dick’s Sporting Goods, which operates 239 sporting goods stores in the U.S., sells bowling balls adorned with pink sparkles, leopard prints and even images of Hello Kitty. Women’s bowling footwear includes blue cosmic suede shoes from BSI, 6 while the Dexter brand carries red leather shoes. The Ebonite Retro Strike Tote Bag is a fashionable choice among bowling ball bags. ROYALTY-FREE/CORBIS; SEWING BY NEIL GUEGAN/CORBIS; BOWLING BY ZAVE SMITH/CORBIS; BICYCLING BY MICHAEL A. KELLER/CORBIS; JOGGIN BY SMITH/CORBIS; BICYCLING ZAVE NEIL GUEGAN/CORBIS; BOWLING BY SEWING BY ROYALTY-FREE/CORBIS;

BICYCLING * Percentage: 20 For all those Lance Armstrong wannabes, take note: Cycling gear is reflecting a more feminine approach these days. WWD reported back in May that 7 skirts were hitting the outdoor apparel market with a bang — companies like Nike, New Balance and Under Armour, which recently revealed plans for a $100 million IPO, are now designing fabric-appropriate skirts for cyclists, runners and tennis players, among other sports.

CAMPING Percentage: 18 Adventure enthusiasts looking to buy their camping and outdoor gear from L.L. Bean may be seeing a store hitting their neighborhoods in the near 8 future. In an effort to keep up with the growing number of competitors and their retail units (think REI and Eastern Mountain Sports), privately held L.L. Bean has slowly begun branching out of its home state of Maine, opening shops in Virginia, New Jersey and Maryland. The company plans to continue distributing its popular catalogue at the same time.

CIRCUIT TRAINING-FREE WEIGHTS * Percentage: 17 “Move over yoga,” WWD said earlier this year. Apparel makers have begun shifting their focus back toward high-energy workouts. Three celebrities 9 whose workouts got them in shape for heavy-duty roles in films include Hilary Swank for “Million Dollar Baby,” Jennifer Garner for “Elektra” and Jessica Biel for “Blade: Trinity.” All three red-carpet beauties reportedly chose a combination of cardio and weight workouts — not to mention changes in their diets.

JOGGING-RUNNING-POWER WALKING * Percentage: 17 In last year’s New York City Marathon, 33 percent of runners who finished the run through all five boroughs were women. Ten years ago, 24 percent of 10 finishers were women. WWD also reported in March that the popularity of triathlons is attributed to the growing interest in extreme sports and in fitness activities in general, along with the fact that this activity incorporates three different elements — bicycling, swimming and running. Thus, the options in apparel are increasing. Speedo, Tyr and Danskin all make triathlon-specific apparel for women. PHOTOS: GARDENING BY MARTIN MEYER/CORBIS; SWIMMING BY PETE SALOUTOS/CORBIS; VOLUNTEER WORK, PHOTOGRAPHY, CAMPING AND WEIGHTS BY WORK, PHOTOGRAPHY, VOLUNTEER PETE SALOUTOS/CORBIS; MEYER/CORBIS; SWIMMING BY MARTIN PHOTOS: GARDENING BY SOURCE: SCARBOROUGH RESEARCH. *INDICATES A TIE. FOR AN EXPANDED VERSION OF THE WWDLIST, GO TO WWD.COM. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 Target’s Sweet Spot: Tak

Outside Target in Denver.

Continued from page one Westfield Group, which has seven Targets in its U.S. retailer, with 1.3 million square feet in 10 stores. Wal- hefty, annual redevelopment spending, stores have portfolio and is building two more. “There’s no reason Mart, which does not have any significant presence in caught up with savvy marketing techniques. The retail- why they shouldn’t be in malls.” the company’s mall portfolio, is the second largest re- er is also delivering robust profit growth. The company has had a presence in malls through- tailer in this segment, with 1.1 million square feet in 10 The $47 billion mass merchant is uniquely placed be- out its history, but has been pushing more aggressively stores, mainly in open air centers. Wal-Mart opened its tween the $285 billion Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and the $30 into the mall arena. General Growth Properties, for ex- first multilevel store designed for a mall in late 2004 in billion Federated in terms of revenues, but also market ample, added Target to a regional enclosed mall in the San Diego, and only has a handful of other mall loca- share and target demographics. In sales terms, Target’s late Seventies, and for the next 15 years, “in almost tions, where it took over vacant department stores. closest rival is Sears Holdings Corp. with $55 billion in every instance that we were building malls from the “From a demographic perspective, it is easier to in- revenue, but analysts don’t consider Sears Holdings a ground up, we put Target in as an anchor,” said John corporate Target into a mall than it would be to do with strong, direct competitor to Target because its sales are Bucksbaum, chief executive officer of the real estate in- Wal-Mart,” said Bucksbaum. “The typical Target cus- divided between Sears and Kmart nameplates. vestment trust. tomer is going to fit almost any mall demographic.” Target already bears the marks of success — it has “We’ve always felt that they were a wonderful addi- Stephen Lebovitz, president of CBL & Associates roughly doubled its pretax earnings, diluted earnings tion and attraction to a retail project,” he said. “In many Properties Inc., a major mall owner in the Southeast, per share and revenues over the past six years. Today it traffic studies, we found the entrance from Target stores agreed. “They bring in a very attractive customer that is will announce same-store sales for August. Comps in its in the mall would be the strongest entrance through a comparable to the department stores and some of the discount stores are expected — for the 19th consecutive department store.” successful specialty stores,” he said. “We don’t feel like month — to outpace those of its biggest competitor, the The affection seems mutual. In 2004, for the first it’s trading down at all.” goliath from Arkansas. Target and Wal-Mart did not re- time, Target earned a spot on Simon Property Group’s Wal-Mart, on the other hand, generates boatloads of turn calls seeking comment. list of top 10 anchors in its regional mall portfolio. Other traffic, but is not necessarily helpful to a mall because But even though it has the funds for a fast expansion anchors include Sears, Federated and J.C. Penney. Its its customers tend to do all of their shopping at Wal- play (as of July 30, Target had $696 million in cash and 12 stores in Simon malls, a total of 1.5 million square Mart and then leave the property, Lebovitz said. CBL al- cash equivalents on its balance sheet, while cash flows feet, placed the retailer ninth on the list for the coun- ready has three Target stores in its mall portfolio, and totaled $1.6 billion), it is not aggressively adding stores try’s largest retail developer. has plans to open a new store in Florida this fall. It ex- or going global with its retail platform. In fact, the Just this year, Target has opened at Simon’s Wolf pects to break ground on a store in Pennsylvania soon. sprawling retail stores of Target might soon be relics. Ranch project in Georgetown, Tex.; is expected to open J.C. Penney is said to be another anchor. Although the majority of its stores are still stand-alone, in two more Simon retail projects in the fourth quarter, According to Ian Gordon of Sanford Bernstein & Co. much of the future growth potential will be in unlikely and is planning a July 2006 opening at Simon’s LLC, Target has roughly 100 stores, or approximately 10 real estate: enclosed malls. Crossroads project in Omaha. percent of its real estate, in traditional malls. “The same people that shop at Neiman Marcus shop In the REIT’s community and lifestyle portfolio, Meanwhile, in the past five years, Target has grown its at Target,” explained Peter Lowy, managing director of which includes all open-air centers, Target is its largest total portfolio conservatively in comparison to Wal-Mart, WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 15 WWD.COM king Fashion to the Mall

adding only 331 stores from yearend 2000 to yearend 2004. At the same time, it is spending an average of $400 million to $500 million annually to redevelop existing stores, a critical move in strengthening the brand. Wa l-Ma r t vs. Target “The Target experience is not just in its store, it starts in the parking lot,” said Andrew McQuilkin, vice (Figures in Billions of Dollars) president at FRCH Design Worldwide, which has worked with Target on designing stores. “They are con- tinuing to evolve the way they treat their whole space, even with their lighting and sidewalks. There’s a brand point of view on everything.” Target said in its 2004 annual report that it expects to increase its square footage by roughly 8 percent in 2005, in line with its growth last year of 65 new stores and 18 new Super Target stores. It expects to operate 2,000 stores by 2010, an increase in store count by roughly 50 percent. The expansion will be all domestic. Target does not have stores overseas. The story of Target and its future can’t be told without mentioning its number-one competitor: Wal-Mart, whose future isn’t as wide open as Target’s, at least domestically. While Wal-Mart has growth opportunities in the grocery business, according to analyst Emme Kozloff, also of Sanford Bernstein & Co. LLC, “the question for them is really how much does it cost to operate their stores. And right now it’s been very difficult for them to offset some of the cost pressures. They can still expand and the issue is how profitable is the business versus years ago.” Wal-Mart said in its latest annual report that it plans to add 250 supercenters and 45 discount stores in fiscal 2006. Keeping up with Wal-Mart’s store growth doesn’t exactly seem to be in Target’s plans anyway. Kozloff, for one, said Target has an- other five years of healthy growth before the store base becomes saturated. In terms of revenue, Wal-Mart is six times larger than Target. But in terms of earnings SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS growth, Target clearly outpaces the behemoth. Target’s average earnings growth rate over One reason Target is ahead of Wal-Mart from a comp- the past five years is 26 percent, which is store sales basis is because its merchandise assortment nearly double Wal-Mart’s 14 percent. of well-marketed apparel consistently draws customers, Target may be surpassing Wal- while Wal-Mart customers tend to shop for household Mart on a store-to-sales basis, too. supplies and groceries. Food, for example, is a low-mar- In 1993, for example, Wal-Mart had gin product, compared with apparel. And Wal-Mart’s total revenues of $55.5 billion, $43.1 core customer, of whom the company has said roughly billion of which were from Wal- 20 percent do not have checking accounts, is more af- Mart’s 1,880 discount stores and fected by soaring gas prices than Target shoppers, who supercenters. Comparatively, at have higher incomes. now more than 1,350 discount While Wal-Mart has several opportunities to beef up stores, including 141 Super comps, apparel is one the most talked about areas. Targets, Target operates roughly Moody’s Investor Service has estimated that Wal-Mart’s 300 fewer stores than Wal-Mart apparel division brought in $33 billion in sales in 2004. did in 1993. But with total rev- So where can Wal-Mart get inspiration to improve its enues at $46.8 billion, Target apparel assortment? Chief rival Target, of course. easily surpasses Wal-Mart’s 1993 “The biggest challenge is striking the balance be- total sales per square foot. tween sticking with their core customer and moving up Target is more healthy than the [demographic] chain a little bit. I think that Target Wal-Mart from a stock market per- does that well and I think [Wal-Mart is] not too proud to spective as well. Trading at take a play out of Target’s playbook,” said Joseph around $54, Target’s stock has Beaulieu, equity analyst at Morningstar. risen about 21 percent in the last Wal-Mart has had a “very, very poor fashion posi- 52 weeks, though the shares are tioning and that void was filled to a great degree by about $6 off a 52-week high. Target, who brought in and More impressively, in the last and any number of brands,” said Martin Brill, presi- five years, Target’s stock price dent and ceo of retail consultancy Sweetwater has more than doubled. Consulting Inc. “When you go into Wal-Mart, at this Wal-Mart, meanwhile, point, it’s just a lot of items that really don’t come to- has had a relatively flat gether as a statement.” stock price over the past Even though Wal-Mart might be looking to Target for five years. At about $45, inspiration, it doesn’t mean Target is in the clear in the company’s shares terms of improving its own apparel category. “One of the recently dipped to a things I think Target needs to work on more is giving 52-week low, and the people a better sense of head-to-toe dressing, coordi- shares are down about 14 percent nates. They’re moving in that direction,” said Brill. year-over-year. Wal-Mart, on the other hand, is “coming from way be- Meanwhile, Target is expecting its same- hind,” said Kozloff. “They don’t have a brand image that store sales for August to be at the high end of lends itself to fashion. The consumer taste level has its 4 to 6 percent guidance; the results will been rising the last four years and Target is well-posi- likely come in ahead of Wal-Mart’s consolidated tioned to capture that and take advantage of that and to 3.3 percent rise, which it announced on grow with it.” Saturday, and could be revised today. Indeed, with Target’s mall strategy in place, healthy financials and focus on fashion for the masses, “There’s Models showcase the retailer’s fall 2005 looks at the ▲ a much greater upside right now for Target than for Wal- Target Vertical Fall Fashion Show at Rockefeller Center Mart,” Brill concluded. “If there’s such a thing as cap- in New York this summer. The show opened with turing a niche within the mass market or the discount acrobats dropping from a nine-story office building. business, they have done it.” 16 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 WWD.COM EU Quota Talks Get Heated U.S. and China Agree By John Zarocostas before the deal went into effect, but which ar- To Extend Meetings rived later. But as a trade-off, member states GENEVA — In a spirited meeting with represen- spearheaded by France, Italy, Portugal and By Evan Clark ject the six petitions or delay a tatives from member states on Wednesday, Euro- Spain want China to agree to reduce shipments decision, as it did on Aug. 1. pean Union Trade Commissioner Peter Mandel- in some other categories. WASHINGTON — Coming togeth- Three textile trade groups fa- son presented a draft proposal to release the The textile and apparel issue is also expect- er for a second day of talks in voring restrictions on China — Chinese textile and apparel shipments held in ed to be “fairly high on the agenda” at the EU- Beijing, U.S. and Chinese nego- the American Manufacturing Customs warehouses. China summit to be held in Beijing on Monday, tiators failed to produce an ap- Trade Action Coalition, the Goods that have been blocked because they which will be attended by British Prime parel and textile import agree- National Council of Textile exceeded agreed quota levels include 48 million Minister Tony Blair and EU Commission ment, but did agree to extend Organizations and the National sweaters, 18 million pairs of trousers, 10 million President Jose Manuel Barroso, sources said. their meeting into today. Textile Association — released a bras, seven million T-shirts, one million Britain has the rotating presidency of the EU. A deal would replace the un- statement Tuesday morning that and 96,000 tons of yarn, sources said. “We’re happy the commission is serious certainty of intermittent safe- a comprehensive agreement had The proposal calls for the swift release of about releasing the goods; however, we are con- guard quotas with a long-term not been reached. the blocked goods, but is still described as cerned how much the quotas for 2006-2007 will plan for managing Chinese im- The statement also lauded ef- “fluid” on how the quantities would be de- be affected as a result,” said Stuart Newman, ports into the U.S., as the two forts of the U.S. delegation, led ducted from the quotas allocated for 2006 and legal adviser at the based Foreign countries shift into the post- by special textile negotiator 2007 under the EU-China import deal reached Trade Association, an umbrella group for im- quota world. Even though all David Spooner, indicating that so in June. porters and retailers. World Trade Organization coun- far the U.S. had stuck to its pro- For the Mandelson fix to fly, it requires not He stressed that members would not be tries dropped textile and apparel posal that an agreement include only securing the political support “at the high- pleased if they have to borrow from the import quotas on Jan. 1, they were still a broad range of goods with low est levels” in member states, but also the sup- quota for 2006, as some retailers have already allowed to impose safeguard lim- growth rates through 2008. China port of China, which must agree to adjustments placed orders for next year. its on China if surging imports has apparently pushed for much to the quota-agreement terms, sources familiar A more favorable option, retailers say, would from the manufacturing power- higher growth rates over fewer with the closed-door proceedings said. be to borrow from a combination of 2006-2007 house caused, or threatened, dis- categories through 2007. “There’s no agreement and all options are quotas. However, European textile and apparel ruption to domestic industries. “The Chinese are just being being explored,” said a senior diplomatic source producers on Wednesday slammed the draft The U.S. has already imposed obstinate,” said Missy Branson, who requested anonymity. proposal as “unacceptable.” safeguard quotas this year on senior vice president of the Tensions are running high and there’s a The proposal “did not conform to either the $1.31 billion worth of goods, limit- NCTO. “The [U.S.] government chance that European textile producer coun- industry’s requirements, to the extent that they ing annual growth to 7.5 percent. held firm and it looked out for tries could still block passage of the Mandelson granted substantial additional volumes to There was still considerable the U.S. industry’s interests.” proposal unless more favorable terms are in- Chinese exporters and EU importers beyond the distance between the two sides In the absence of a deal, textile cluded when talks resume today, sources said. limits agreed on June 10, namely to avoid un- before their final meeting Wed- groups vowed to push for further Some Brussels insiders fear, however, that if too necessary company closures and job losses,” nesday, and reaching a deal restrictions on China, which has many conditions are demanded by member said Filiep Libeert, president of the European today is far from a certainty, said been on an import tear with states, the EU-China pact could collapse. Apparel & Textile Organization. U.S. groups following the negoti- growth of 46.6 percent in the first Also still on the table is a proposal to allo- “As the current proposals stand, Europe’s ations from here and Beijing. half to 7.9 billion square meters cate China an additional 5 percent quota for textiles and clothing industry will again be the The sticking points included equivalent. The domestic groups 2005 to accommodate shipments for which major victim of the free gifts bestowed upon whether the deal would run fear that a failure to curtail China’s Chinese authorities had issued export licenses China.” through 2007 or 2008, when the exports will result in further job China safeguard caveat expires, losses in the beleaguered sector. and if the U.S. could go back later But importers charge that and restrict imports of goods not free-trade restrictions hurt the covered under an agreement, economy. said two people familiar with “An agreement has to reflect Can’t Make It? Wednesday’s talks. the interest of the U.S. as a At press time, the Bush admin- whole,” Laura Jones, executive istration had not made public director of the U.S. Association of whether it would impose addi- Importers of Textile & Apparel, tional safeguard quotas covering said in a statement. “That in- about $975 million worth of goods. cludes importers and retailers, The interagency Committee for who account for millions of jobs, the Implementation of Textile and American families, who will Agreements had until midnight to bear the brunt of increased prices either enact the safeguards, re- for essential clothing purchases.”

A PRADA EXIT: Katherine Ross has Fashion Scoops resigned as senior vice president of public relations and communications at Prada USA Corp. Ross, who joined Prada USA five years ago from Sotheby’s, will stay on through the end of September “to ensure a smooth transition,” a Prada spokesman in Milan said Wednesday. He said Ross is leaving “to pursue other challenges,” but could provide no further details. Ross has been mentioned as a possible candidate to replace Peter Arnold as executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. However, on Wednesday, Stan Herman, president of Get front row access to the CFDA, said no decision had been made on Arnold’s replacement. “We will be NY Fashion Week! seeing the candidates in two weeks. We have not seen anybody yet,” Herman noted. WWD.com is FREE 9/9 - 9/16 REMEMBERING BROOKS: A memorial service is planned for Donald Brooks on Sept. 7 at 6 p.m. at the Frank E. Campbell Funeral Chapel. His friend of 40 years, Gerald Blum, is hopeful that it will not be a maudlin affair. “We want it to be a celebration of his life — the invitations even say that,” Blum said. “He really was an enormous talent. Fashion, film, theater — he did it all.”

WORTH THE WEIGHT: Winners of the Weight Watchers, “Then and Wow!,” contest will win more than a photo spread in Weight Watchers Magazine for their success with the program. This year, four winners from across the country, plus company spokeswoman, Sarah “Fergie” Ferguson, will be Betsey Johnson’s guests-of-honor at her runway show during New York’s fashion week on Sept. 12. The women will be flown into New York as Johnson’s personal guests, and will be styled by the designer and decked out in Betsey Johnson apparel for the show.

QUILL AT HAND: Mireille Guiliano is in the running for the Debut Author of the Year Quill award for her million-plus bestseller “French Women Don’t Get Fat.” She is also squaring off against such finalists as Maria Shriver and

PHOTO BY MILES LADIN PHOTO Malcolm Gladwell in the “Health/Self-Improvement” category. Guiliano is For more information contact Stephanie Ferrara, marketing manager, Fairchild Internet, at 212-630-2897. still working away at her day job as president and chief executive officer of WWDMediaWorldwide® the LVMH-owned Veuve Clicquot, even though the tide of interest around her book is showing no signs of receding.

18 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 WWD.COM Shiseido Delivers $9M Profit in Quarter

By Koji Hirano 26.4 percent to 14 billion yen, or $128.1 million. The portion of consolidated net sales that was generated by TOKYO — “Shiseido’s wake-up call has finally come,” sales overseas was 28.8 percent. the company’s president and chief executive officer For fiscal 2004, sales overseas accounted for 27.8 per- Shinzo Maeda laughed during recent comments to ana- cent of total sales, and that portion is expected to in- lysts about Shiseido’s strong first quarter. crease to 31.3 percent for fiscal 2007. “In the future,” said After succeeding Morio Ikeda — who accelerated a Maeda, “Shiseido will [further] expand its business glob-

restructuring plan for the Japanese beauty giant, then MAMORU MIYAZAWA PHOTO BY ally and will generate 40 percent of total sales overseas. became chairman of Shiseido in June — as president, “Markets in the Americas and Europe are very im- Maeda’s administration has shown speedy and ener- portant for Shiseido to improve its prestige presence in getic action. the beauty field,” he continued. “In the U.S., we did For the three-month period ended June 30, the structural reform and reduced inventory.” Japanese cosmetics group announced net profits of 982 For the Chinese market, Shiseido will invest an ad- million yen, or $9 million, against net losses of 6.6 billion ditional 4 billion yen, or $36 million at current ex- yen, or $60.4 million, for the same period a year ago. change, compared with a year ago, although Maeda de- Sales increased 9.3 percent compared with a year ago. clined to comment on the total investment value. For the fiscal year ended March 31, the group had In China, Shiseido has a history of more than 20 years net losses of 8.9 billion yen, or $8.4 million. Figures are of doing business. In 1992, Shiseido established an affili- on a consolidated basis and are converted at average ate there and, in 1994, the firm started a prestige brand, exchange rates. called Aupres, that is produced and sold in China. Now, At meetings dur- “the brand is sold at almost all department stores in ing a recent trip to China and, at 80 percent of those department stores, BEAUTY BEAT Europe, Canada and Aupres is ranked as the best-selling brand,” said Maeda. the U.S., Maeda Also in fiscal 2004, Shiseido established retail oper- earned positive reactions from analysts for the first quar- ations at selected specialty stores in China. “We ter results. “We examined the unprofitable parts of our planned to have 200 stores last year but eventually we business and rebalanced our management resources for had 301 stores by the end of the year. For fiscal 2005, better profitability,” said Maeda. we will have accumulated 1,000 stores. Our temporary Shiseido appointed Maeda in February and initiat- goal is 5,000 stores by 2008,” Maeda said. ed a three-year plan aimed at maximizing growth po- For fiscal 2007, Shiseido’s wholesale sales in China tential and improving profitability. “This plan focuses Markets in the Americas and are projected to be 50 billion yen, or $455 million, a on addressing three strategies with firm execution and “ quarter of overseas sales. speed: reforming domestic marketing activities, accel- Europe are very important for In the domestic market, Shiseido recently intro- erating expansion of the Chinese business and funda- duced a new makeup brand, called Maquillage, and this mental restructuring,” said Maeda. Shiseido to improve its prestige summer revamped the men’s brand Uno. Maquillage is For the fiscal year ending next March 31, Shiseido is expected to generate retail sales of 50 billion yen, or projecting net income of 13.5 billion yen, or $123 mil- presence in the beauty field. $455 million, while Uno is projected to make another 15 lion at current exchange, and net sales of 660 billion ” billion yen, or $136 million, for the first year. yen, or $6 billion. — Shinzo Maeda, Shiseido “That will be the first chapter of our strategy,” Maeda Under the three-year plan, Shiseido projects consoli- said of the product introductions. “We will announce dated sales of 740 billion yen, or $6.7 billion, with an op- in domestic personnel expenses. Sales from cosmetics more news on new products within this fiscal year.” As it erating-profits-to-sales ratio of 8 percent for fiscal 2007. made up 79.3 percent of total sales, an increase of 7.1 adds new brands, Shiseido plans to retrench other “In fiscal 2004, that ratio was 4 percent,” said Maeda. percent from a year ago. brands “in order to concentrate investment on more “For the 2005 fiscal year, we are aiming at a ratio of 5 per- For the same period, “sales in [Shiseido’s] mainstay powerful brands to build up the top brand in each cate- cent, then 6.4 percent for the following year. We want a domestic cosmetics business were in good demand, gory such as skin care, makeup, and men’s,” said Maeda. constant increase.” while overseas sales, centering on China, expanded He has a positive view of mergers and acquisitions For the first quarter, sales increased to 157.5 billion greatly,” Maeda noted. if they bolster “the value of the company when we find yen, or $1.49 billion at average exchange, while income Domestic sales rose 7.4 percent to 116.9 billion yen, a good company at a good time,” he added. from operations was 10.6 billion yen, or $97 million, or $1.07 billion, and sales in the Americas were up 3.9 This fall, Maeda is planning to visit Asian countries and compared with operating losses of 778 million yen, or percent to 12.1 billion yen, or $110.7 million. Sales in regions including Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Taiwan, $7.3 million, a year ago. This rise reflected a gross prof- Europe rose 5.8 percent to 21.8 billion yen, or $200 mil- China and Korea. “Explaining my own business vision with it increase from sales growth, in addition to a decrease lion, and sales from the Asia-Oceania region jumped my own words to the employees is my mission,” he said. Alfaro Lends Hand to Tamsen By Marc Karimzadeh phisticated and retail and press ready. Where they bring inspiration and artwork, NEW YORK — Tamsen is turning to I bring the skills on how to make clothes.” friends like Victor Alfaro for a little help. Tamsen is inspired by the paintings of The Santa Barbara, Calif.-based design Firestone’s father-in-law, Robert W. duo of Sue Firestone and Mimi Wolfe has Firestone, which she originally used as tapped the designer as a consultant to its prints for simple and elegant dresses and collection, beginning with spring 2006. The sarongs. The collection had wholesale collaboration came about when Firestone, sales of $500,000 last season, and the a well-known interior designer, as well, company is projecting wholesale volume met Alfaro at an event about eight months of $1.2 million for the spring collection, ago. The two hit it off and Firestone would for which Alfaro consulted. frequently ask Alfaro what he thought of Tamsen’s spring collection will be un- designs for the collection. veiled at the Agent 011 showroom in New “Then, eventually, it evolved into him Yo rk on Wednesday. being our main consultant in the collec- Alfaro explained the collection, which tion and its direction...to take a print- was mostly centered on dresses in the be- based collection and to really make it a ginning, will be more focused on full collection,” she said. “lifestyle dressing,” with knitwear, T- Alfaro, who moved to West Hollywood shirts, casualwear and suits alongside two years ago, added: “I was attracted by dressy and casual dresses. all the art, and so we talked. They This isn’t Alfaro’s first design contri- Sketches from showed me what they were doing and it bution. He earlier had his own namesake Tamsen’s spring seemed an interesting project to get in- collection, and also designed for Tse. He 2006 collection, volved with.” became a creative director at Wet Seal in for which Victor At Tamsen, he has been charged with 2003, which he left last year. Alfaro consulted. guiding the choice of silhouettes, fabrics “He brings expertise in fit and and the overall design concept. Asked style...it’s something of the moment,” how he can add to the collection, Alfaro Firestone said. “His collaboration with said: “I bring my expertise on how to us has added a whole new dimension. make the right silhouettes, how to con- The variety is just tenfold...it’s a com- struct garments, how to make them so- plete collection.” WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2005 19

VP Sourcing We are a leading supplier of better women’s casual wear to the resort/ Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. specialty store channel. We seek No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: an individual with 8-10 years of (937) 898-2975 sourcing experience and a strong knitwear/cut and sewn background. Must be highly organized and have a true passion for their work. We’re offering a unique & rewarding oppor- Embellished Tops & Tunics tunity for the right individual. Please With beads, sequins, jewels, lace, Fax all resumes (salary must be flowers, yarn metallics, embroidery. included for consideration ) to: View: www.withdazzlingstyle.com or call Cora (408) 298-4138 Human Resources @ 917-591-8042 Production Opptys Fast paced, established sweater co. seeks eager individuals: ASSOC. PRODUCTION COORD Work w/ Head of Domestic Production: follow up, communication, ordering of accessories, maintenance of records, li- Designer aison between factories & designers. SWEATER DESIGNER Email res: [email protected] 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00 Learn the Art of Branded womenswear company seeks PRODUCTION ASST 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 designer for new hip sweater division. Individual to assist import production Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in Wardrobe Consulting Must have contemporary taste level. mgrs; responsibilities include heavy Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 "Get Behind Clothes Doors" (a step by Min 2 yrs import exp. & be able to handle clerical data entry; must be proficient step seminar on how to become a in Excel. Please email resume to: For Space in Garment Center sweater develop. from design to produc- wardrobe consultant). Sat, Oct 15th, tion. Must be technically knowledgable [email protected] 9AM - 3PM, Hotel ZAZA, Dallas, TX. in yarn qualities and knitting stitches. Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Cost $250.00 (includes a signed copy 212-880-0414 Please Fax resume and examples of your SPEC TECH of the "Keen Eye On Fashion"). To best contemporary/ designer sketches to Fast paced womenswear manufacturer reserve your seat, pls call 214-682-1707. 212-302-3318. Resume will not be con- seeks spec tech person to spec dresses Showrooms & Lofts Visit us at: www.thekeenagency.com sidered without sketches. and sportwear items for private label BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS accounts. Must have minimum 1 year Great ’New’ Office Space Avail experience in import experience and ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 must have technical knowledge of gar- DESIGN/PRODUCTION ment construction and measurements. West 34th Street Offices for Rent Computer proficiency required. 4,500 sq. ft and 2,500 sq. ft. ASSISTANT Leading Childrenswear Mfr. seeking a Fax resume to 212-302-3318 Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 reliable, detail-oriented person to join www.dumann.com our team. You will be responsible for preparing final art, fabric & trim details for production packages. Garment con- struction and textile knowledge a must. Must be proficient in Illustrator. Min. of 1-3 years experience preferred. ACCESSORIES DESIGNER Please fax resume to Denise: Kids International Corp. GLOBAL WISE DEVELOPMENT 212-967-8108 1407 BROADWAY A Contemporary Private Label Co. is 100 West 33rd Street 1200 Sq. Ft. furnished showroom on seeking candidates to develop a line of handbags, belts & shoes. Min 3-5 yrs DUE PER DUE- New York, NY 10001 PURE LIME www.purelime.com high floor available for sub leasing. A major European lifestyle/fitness Tel: 201-818-6160 Cell: 551-427-6137 exp. Must be computer literate, be Bridge Collection comfortable interacting w/clients & Asst./Assoc. position available for a brand seeks reps. Many open territories HK office. Be detail oriented, aggressive, creative individual with a go getter CHILDRENSWEAR INDUSTRY LEADER Please call or E-mail James at: self-motivating & good w/ follow-thru. attitude. Tremendous growth potential. HAS IMMEDIATE OPENINGS IN THE FOLLOWING POSITIONS: 213.627.8362 / [email protected] Fax resumes to 509-757-7814 or email Design school graduate w/ 1-2 years exp. Sales Key Account Exec. $150K++. Cur- [email protected] Please Fax Resume: rent exp in womens wool, rain, outerwear, Att: Design Director- SC to 212-768-7651 •Sales Executives/Sales Assistants with current access to +leather req’d. Strong relationships May Admin Since 1967 chains mid-tier accounts Co. or Federated or other dept. stores. Exp in store plans. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy W-I-N-S-T-O-N FASHION DESIGNER •Merchandisers - Boys’ & Girls’ Woven/Knits APPAREL STAFFING (NYC) Analyzing trend, developing Salesperson Wanted DESIGN * SALES * MERCH concept board, novelty stitches, print •Designers - Boys’ & Girls’ Wovens/Knits Missy & Plus Sportswear Co. importer ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION &stripe in CAD. Responsible for em- •Artists - Boys’ & Girls’ Wovens/Knits is looking for a motivated aggressive LINGERIE / SLEEPWEAR (212) 557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 bellishment layout, SMPL developing person with contacts in mass chain and approving S/O & L/D. Developing •Spec Tech Personnel stores, private label and catalogs. Exp’d. U.S.A. plant seeks contract cut/ AMAZING FASHION CAREERS exclusive line for JCP.Negotiate with Please fax resume to: (212) 730-5116 sew/finish work • Quick turn; 4000pcs/wk. Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - Korean factories. 40 hrs/wk, M-F, BFA •Quality Control Director E-mail: [email protected] Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. Textiles & Clothing Design, 1 yr. exp. Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) Sr. Account Exec. Must be computer literate, fluent in •Quality Control Personnel Well est’d women’s sweater co. seeks Korean Fax resume: 212-643-2406 •Production Directors & Assistants exp’d person w/ strong dept. & chain August Silk Attn: Benedict Chan store relationships in both branded & •Accounts Payable/Receivable Personnel private label areas. Candidate must ASSISTANT BUYER be self motivated & possess a proven Women’s Clothing Store seeks Assistant Patternmaker Assistant record of consistent sales growth. Buyer for private label product High-end Women’s Apparel Co. seeks a Only qualified applicants with at least 5 years experience & track Seeking Apparel Licensee for ( Please send resume to: Box # 1063 "Key West" development department. Needs to be F/T Assistant Patternmaker with at record will be considered. Former Kids International employees 7 West 34th Street, 4th Floor detail oriented, organized and a multi- least 2 years experience. Must know New York, NY 10001 Key West Hand Prints, a 45 year est’d tasker who is computer proficient. NJ draping and tailored garments. Sample are welcome to rejoin; All applications/inquiries will be kept strictly company with National Brand Name location. Fax resume and salary development through production. confidential) Please forward all resumes to Richard at: recognition is seeking an APPAREL requirements to: 201-866-0387 Great growth, benefits, and working LICENSEE for the brand name "Key environment. Fax resume and salary Box#M 1065 West," BUYER or EQUITY PARTNER. requirements to: (212)760-0156 The business includes a Key West CAD ARTIST/ TEXTILES c/o Fairchild Publications A well est’d 55 year old converter of store, an internet store, a Wholesale 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl., New York, NY 10001 Division, ownership of the "Key West" prints on cotton sheeting, polar fleece, Production Assistant Trademark, and ownership of over and flannel is seeking a Textile design A. Cheng 2000 copyrighted prints. CAD artist. Full time position located in After Five, Scial Dress Co. is seeking Jersey City, NJ. Will work in Photoshop individual; Responsibilities to include STORE MANAGER Contact Dan Bazo at: 813-503-9398 or Contemporary Women’s Wear boutique E-mail: [email protected] w/developing repeats & color ways. Must follow-up w/overseas factories on orders know Adobe Photoshop 7 &have a good &samples, lab dips, spec and cost sheets seeks a motivated, responsible, and out- sense of color. Will need to show samples and data entry. Must possess clear going individual for this F/T position. of computer generated art. Work in an exc. written communication, organizational Must have sales exp., computer skills, environment w/oppty’s for growth. & computer skills -- min. Please Fax and excellent customer service skills. Please fax resume to 201-659-9719 resume to Lonnie at: 212-302-9325 Great opportunity for the right person. E-mail resume: [email protected] Production Coordinator PATTERN/SAMPLES CAD DESIGNER Fast paced Childrens Importer seeks Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Leading, fast paced, growing Women’s indiv. with 5+ years garment importing work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Apparel Company seeks a Freelance or expr. from Asia. Must have good com- FT Cad Designer with excellent skills in munication skills, be detail oriented & Nedgraphics (FashionStudio Version), organized. Daily order follow up with PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Photoshop and Illustrator. The candi- overseas suppliers on all order details. date should have a minimum of 2 yrs Excellent computer skills a must. PRODUCTIONS industry experience. Responsibilities All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Fax or e-mail resume to: Chinese Laundry Cosmetic Bags and will include cleaning, reducing and 212-658-9149 / [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. putting a print in Repeat. Must know Etc. Contemporary Legwear Group seeks Color Reduction, Design Repeats and exp’d. Independent Sales Representation. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Easy Coloring in Nedgraphics. Must be Must have current following in mass mar- have a good eye for color. Fax resume Production Manager ket, mid-tier, Dept. and Specialty Stores. PRODUCTIONS to: (212) 827-3344 Attn: SG Seeking individual w/strong operational E-mail resume:[email protected] Full servcie shop to the trade. &mfg. skills. Must have min. 5 years exp. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Established Manufacturer/Importer w/costume jewelry, strong leadership seeks well-connected individual with CAD OPERATOR skills to oversea small staff, be computer own N.Y. showroom to carry Sleepwear, PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Girls’ clothing mfr seeks experienced literate & have great communication skills Loungewear, Beach cover-ups in High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Cad Operator. Good salary. to work with overseas factories. Position Contemporary/Missy/Women’s styling. sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Fax resume 718-624-8635 based in NYC. Fax resume: 973-379-7581 Please email Joe Messina: [email protected] AMERICA’S COTTON PR ODUCERS AND IMPOR TERS. ® Registered Service Mar Registered Service ® TERS.

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