WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear/Men’s

Caroline FASHION Wozniacki 8 As men’s wear designers prepare to mount the starting blocks in the French capital, WWD snuck into hotels, ateliers and showrooms around the city to grab a slice of the action. Advanced Placement GENERAL Planning Ahead and Shopping Early Are Hallmarks for Back-to-School 2010 1 With China’s middle class growing fast, firms such as Gap Inc., American Eagle Outfitters and Bebe Stores onna, mom of two, takes a very strategic planning to shop, 79% say they need to, and poor Inc. are making their first forays into the country. approach to back-to-school shopping each fit appears to be the culprit; 63% say their kids’ 3 French President Nicolas Sarkozy welcomed an year: “I start early,” she says. “While most clothing is either too big or too small, and 15% say English “fashion revolutionary” to the Elysée Palace D on Wednesday night, and decorated John Galliano people are thinking about the end of the current the clothing is worn out. school year, I am planning ahead for fall and the new “Classics” like tees, denim, sweaters and athletic as a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor. school year.” apparel, will also drive back-to-school purchases 3 Now that he is Millennium Promise’s first world Whether they plan to shop as early as Donna or this year. When asked what they plan to purchase, leader, Tommy Hilfiger on Friday will make his initial wait for the days of summer to come to a close, most respondents said shirts (88%) top the list, followed pitch to end world poverty. women do plan to shop for back-to-school. Eighty-one by jeans (80%), socks (76%), pants (65%), 12 The four-level, 91,257-square-foot flagship Forever percent of female respondents report to the Cotton outerwear, (58%), and sweaters (54%). “These 21 will open in Times Square on Friday represents Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ garments are the staples of back the retailer’s $100 million ambitions in Manhattan. survey that they are at least planning to school wardrobes, and they Back-to-school is a EYE to purchase new clothing for their forecaster“ for Christmas, are on everyone’s list year after The ladies at Wimbledon may be competing for the children for the fall. so we all hope to see some year for good reason,” says Maria ▲ 4 championship title, but they also seem to be vying Taking a page from her improvement. There is Dziedzic, Men’s Design Director for most fashionable player. daughters’ lesson books, Donna cautious optimism this year, for Uniqlo, the international uses what she calls the “ABC’s” of and that’s a good thing.” retailer. “Denim can be both a back to school shopping. “It’s all basic and a directional garment, Classified Advertisements...... 15 about Accessibility, Bargains and Casey Chroust, and it can be purchased at price TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Classics,” she says. Retail Industry Leaders Association points across the board.” Monitor [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. By “accessibility,” Donna data reveal that women say they WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. means she looks across all shopping channels, are willing to spend $29.22, on average, for a pair of VOLUME 199, NO. 132. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and including in-store, online and in catalogs, for an jeans for their children. November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine easy shopping experience. For the overwhelming Stephen Donnelly, Vice President and General Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; majority of women, back-to-school shopping is a Merchandising Manager for Kmart Apparel, agrees Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional personal experience: 90% of female respondents with Dziedzic. “It’s all about the denim: worn-out, mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, who say that they are shopping for clothing for their vintage, bleached, skinny silhouettes and the all- Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North children this fall report to the Monitor survey that important jegging.” Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. they plan to shop in-store. Moms may focus on the price tag, but kids still want Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If Regardless of the shopping channel they choose, fashion-forward looks; 15% of female respondents during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with women and retailers alike will focus on “bargains” shopping for children’s apparel say their children your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S for back-to-school shopping. “There will continue to want new clothing styles for back-to-school. WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 be a value play with consumers this season, but how “We will be introducing several new fashion or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened a consumer defines value differs by the consumer,” brands to appeal to a range of ages, from kids to companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these says Casey Chroust, Executive Vice President of teens and tweens,” says Donnelly. “Among the offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, Retail Operations for the Retail Industry Leaders latest launches are the Dream Out Loud collection UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Association, the trade association for some of the by Selena Gomez, and Rebecca Bonbon from the WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED world’s largest retailers. “For some, it’s about price, makers of Hello Kitty. Existing lines like Route 66 TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED while for others, it’s about quality or durability.” continue to have wide appeal to a young missy, back- MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. According to to-campus customer,” Monitor data, moms Among Females: Where Do You Plan on Shopping Donnelly adds. DAILY will be keeping their for Most of Your Children’s Clothing This Fall? Donnelly also sees We have a big plan for eye on price tags; a a significant overlap QUOTE “ nearly unanimous 93% between what is on trend In stores: 90% China, but it’s a country of females said that for moms – and their they were somewhat to On the internet: 7% daughters. “Military- where it requires us to be very cautious, very likely to purchase inspired fashions are Through a catalog: 1% fall clothing for their also a key trend for to go not as fast as you can but as children on sale. Further Over television: 1% your wardrobe; look for evidence of their still epaulets and shoulder carefully as you can. Other: 1% cautious spending details, military or brass —” Paul Marciano, Guess vice chairman habits is revealed by the buttons, dusty neutrals and chief executive officer. Page one. 68% of women who say Source: CottonLifestyleMonitor.com and cargo pants.“ they prefer to shop at mass merchants, followed by At Garnet Hill, little touches also add up to a lot TODAY ON chain stores (52%), specialty stores (43%), off price for their latest back-to-school collection. “We are retailers (26%) and department stores (23%). calling it ‘Free Spirited Fun and Function’ with Inside the Forever 21 At Garnet Hill, the multi-channel retailer, back- ruffles, embellishments and graphics,” says Thayer. inin TimesTimes Square.Square. WWD to-school bargains are defined both by price and a “Our signature backpacks all have our own exclusive .COM small enticement to motivate consumers. “We have prints and are designed with lots of attention to • Ongoing coverage of lots of well designed pieces with delightful details at details and function.” men’s fashion week in great prices,” says Wendy Thayer, Public Relations With any luck, retailers and consumers who Paris, including Manager. She says that Garnet Hill will have special have focused on their “ABC’s” will get high marks reviews, full runs of show, incentives, including a free lunch pack with the across the board. “Back-to-school is a forecaster for backstage images and purchase of a backpack, among others. Christmas, so we all hope to see some improvement,” Fashion Scoops. Necessity appears to be a key motivation behind observes Chroust, the retail insider. “There is cautious • More images of the new new back-to-school purchases. Among those optimism this year and that’s a good thing.” Forever 21 store in Times Square and of Spyker’s new watch collection. • Beauty Radar Screen: This article is one in a series that appears in these pages on Thursdays. The data contained is based on findings June 24 from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, a consumer attitudinal study, as well as upon other of the company’s industrial indicators including its Retail Monitor and Supply Chain Insights analyses. A digital • WWD Blog: version of this column and other relevant information can be found at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com. John Baldessari’s retrospective in L.A. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 3 WWD.COM Hilfiger Spearheads Millennium Promise Initiative Galliano Receives Legion of Honor By Rosemary Feitelberg major initiative in Nigeria taking hold next year, By Miles Socha MP promotes self-sufficiency, not financial hand- NOW THAT HE IS MILLENNIUM PROMISE’S outs, Sachs said. Confident that world poverty can PARIS — French President Nicolas Sarkozy welcomed an English first world leader, Tommy Hilfiger on Friday will be sliced in half by 2015, he said: “You have to be “fashion revolutionary” to the Elysée Palace on Wednesday night, make his initial pitch to end world poverty when an optimist because being a pessimist means leav- and decorated John Galliano as a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor. he addresses 1,000 chief executive officers at the ing millions of people to die unnecessarily.” To be sure, Dior’s couturier, on the eve of the men’s shows and cou- United Nations. By speaking about or showing video foot- ture week in Paris, made an unconventional fashion statement — his By taking a more visible role, Hilfiger, whose cor- age of such extreme hardship Friday, Hilfiger long locks split into flat, featherlike braids under a broad-brimmed porate foundation pledged $2 million last year to hopes attendees will realize “this does exist. It hat, his chest bare under a vest and elegantly rumpled tailcoat. a nonprofit that aims to halve can be prevented and some- The intimate gathering reunited a spectrum of talents and world poverty by 2015, aims how altered.” His compa- friends that have accompanied the Gibraltar-born designer on his to get more companies and ny’s 10,000 staffers also will rise from Central Saint Martins to the pinnacle of high fashion, from high-profile people involved be encouraged to pitch in. milliner Stephen Jones and DJ Jeremy Healy to production design- with Millennium Promise. Establishing matching funds er Michael Howell and During an exclusive interview for employee donations, pro- model Scott Barnhill. President Nicolas Sarkozy Wednesday, MP’s president viding volunteer opportuni- Manolo Blahnik mar- decorates John Galliano. and co-founder Jeffrey Sachs ties overseas and encourag- veled at the depths of described Hilfiger’s more vis- ing clothing donations are Galliano’s creative well. ible role as “huge.” among the initiatives being “I’ve always admired Hilfiger said, “I would like considered, he said. what he’s done, and yet to think that other people will Meanwhile, Hilfiger contin- I feel like he’s just get- choose to get involved — other ues to support initiatives in the ting started,” he said. corporations, other people fashion industry. The designer Bernard Arnault maybe from the fashion indus- on Tuesday hosted a battalion — the head of LVMH try, the entertainment indus- of fashion-world interns at his Moët Hennessy Louis try, the business community. Fifth Avenue flagship. The 56 Vuitton who plucked Awareness is very important students were 2010 recipients Galliano in 1995, first here — the more aware people of scholarships from the YMA for Givenchy and a year are that this exists, there is re- Fashion Scholarship Fund, later for Dior — and ally hope to potentially eradi- which has awarded more than Sidney Toledano, Dior’s cate this extreme poverty.” $6 million since 1971. In ad- chief executive, beamed as Sarkozy teased Galliano about his “en- Sachs expects the design- Jeffrey Sachs and Tommy Hilfiger dition to their $5,000 grants, fant terrible” reputation, and then pinned the medal on his lapel. er’s speech at Friday’s Global the students — from 28 differ- Earlier, Arnault expressed delight at France’s recognition for the Compact Leaders Summit 2010 ent schools, including Wharton, “ideal successor” to Christian Dior. to have “a very powerful effect.” Hilfiger recently Cornell, Barnard and the Fashion Institute of “He taught me how to walk when I was 14,” said Kate Moss, jut- visited a Millennium Village in Ruhiira, Uganda, Technology — have been working in New York this ting her hips forward, her hair in a chignon, wearing a one-shoul- with his company’s chief financial officer, Ludo summer at companies such as Polo Ralph Lauren, dered Dior dress. Then she rushed to hug the hairstylists Odile Onnink. “I never realized how enormous this Calvin Klein, Lanvin and Macy’s. “Life is about the Gilbert and Julien d’Ys and makeup artist Pat McGrath, who help project was until I visited Ruhiira and then sud- people you meet,” FSF board member and execu- bring Galliano’s fantastical visions to life on the runway. denly realized we’re talking about the lives of tive recruiter Debra Malbin told the assembled The designer’s invitation list was varied and familial, spanning hundreds of thousands of people,” Hilfiger said. interns and industry executives, such as Peter young design assistants and seasoned seamstresses to Dior’s Delphine “We understand the dire need for more medical Sachse of Macy’s, Colleen Kelly of Tommy Hilfiger, Arnault, Camille Miceli and Catherine Riviere. Also present were for- supplies, water sources, expanding schools and Paul Rosengard of Li & Fung and Doug Jakubowski mer colleagues, including Valerie Hermann, former president of John even buying more mosquito nets.” of Kenneth Cole. Galliano and now chief executive at Yves Saint Laurent. Already at work in 15 countries and with a — With contributions from David Lipke In a speech that mingled English and French, Galliano was as brief and sincere as his fashions can be wild. “I am honored and MEMO PAD humbled to receive this award that I share with you all,” he said. THREE’S COMPANY: Typically, Marc Jacobs gives his collections for Chanel, Vuitton Make Saint-Tropez Moves Louis Vuitton a different spin in advertising versus the runway. For the forthcoming fall campaign, slated to break in a wide range of August titles, Christy Turlington, Karen Elson and Natalia Vodianova are shown preening in front of old-fashioned makeup mirrors backstage, as if they were ready to take a stroll around the fountain of the Louvre’s Cour Carré, the setting ITTON/STEPHANE MURATET for Vuitton’s show during Paris Fashion Week in March. Ditto for the multigenerational casting — one model in her 20s, one her 30s, one her 40s — adding up to one Louis Vuitton’s fall campaign, shot by Steven Meisel. of the most sophisticated Vuitton fashion campaigns to date, according to Antoine Arnault, Vuitton’s director Louis Vuitton’s expanded of communications. “The atmosphere was very Fifties, very elegant,” he related. This is the fourth Vuitton Saint-Tropez store. campaign shot by Steven Meisel, who constructed the period set in a New York studio. Arnault described the media spend as “flat” and said it would remain print driven, running in tandem with the company’s “Core Values” campaign. The latest one, depicting Pelé, Diego Maradona and Zinedine Zidane playing foosball PARIS — French luxury brands Louis Vuitton and Chanel are in a in a Madrid cafe, will continue to run through the World Cup tournament and into the fall. In light of the Saint-Tropez state of mind. disgraced French team, Arnault expressed relief that Vuitton did not opt to cast today’s soccer stars. “We Following last month’s sunset showing of its cruise collection on made the right choice to work with legends and not spoiled brats,” he said. — Miles Socha the Riviera town’s picturesque port, Chanel on Wednesday opened a temporary store in an 18th-century house not far from Place des SILVER ANNIVERSARY: New York City has informed Donna Karan practically since the day she was born as a Lices — site of an open-air market and pétanque games. designer, so when it came to the fall Collection ad campaign that marks her 25th anniversary in business, The 1,300 square feet of selling space boasts an ephemeral decor it’s little surprise Gotham plays a central character. Shot by Patrick Demarchelier on location on the 32nd VU LOUIS BY CASTEL; VUITTON LUC SAINT-TROPEZ IGER; GALLIANO BY in black, white, beige and red, a nod to the dark lacquer Chinese floor of the Met Life Building, the ad features screens in founder Gabrielle Chanel’s Rue Cambon apartment. models Karlie Kloss and Anna J photographed The unit will showcase ready-to-wear, shoes and leather goods, at night against the cinematic city skyline. starting with the pre-fall “métiers d’art” collection Karl Lagerfeld Karan, in typical Karan-ness, said she was showed last December in Shanghai, as well as Chanel’s Premieres going for “the power of the woman — the and J12 watch ranges. strength, power and modernity of the woman Chanel does not operate a permanent boutique in Saint-Tropez, of New York.” a popular summertime destination for the jet set. The temporary “Her seductiveness mirrors the strength, store at 25 Rue François Sibilli will operate until Oct. 3. power and seduction of New York and all of Vuitton, meanwhile, has doubled the size of its Saint-Tropez store its sensual rhythms,” she added. on Rue Sibilli, and unveiled its new “villa” concept last week. The campaign will launch in U.S. and The store features an inner garden filled with Mediterranean global fashion and lifestyle publications in plants and paved with Provençal briquettes to evoke the resort loca- September and will run through November. tion’s legendary laid-back glamour, first made famous in the Fifties Donna Karan International also is placing and Sixties by Brigitte Bardot. digital and outdoor advertisements, and the Luggage, leather goods, men’s wear, shoes and resort clothing are company is creating a glossy 12-page image all showcased in the two-level Vuitton unit, decorated with draw- piece to be mailed out to Karan’s top clients ings by Paris graffiti artist and nightclub impresario André Saraiva. that will feature the campaign’s photos and Exclusive products include an oversize Neverfull bag that comes

An image from Donna Karan’s fall campaign. fall runway shots. — Marc Karimzadeh DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTYHILFIGER PHOTO BY IMAGES FOR TOMMY HILF with a beach towel big enough for two. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 WWD.COM

SOCIAL CALL

A spring 2002 JAMEE GREGORY HAS ATTENDED — Balenciaga and thrown — her fair share of festive campaign shot gatherings. (Enough to fill a book, in by Inez van fact: Look for her glossy tome, “New Lamsweerde York Parties: Private Views,” out and Vinoodh from Rizzoli this fall.) So who better Matadin. to ask for clever entertainment tips? As part of a regular feature, WWD will be offering up insider social tidbits, courtesy of some of our favorite hosts and hostesses. Here, Gregory gives her thoughts on the perfect stationery.

After a sultry May and June, my garden goes wild and I feel the urge to entertain. When the delphiniums, foxglove and first lilies pop, it seems only fitting to provide them with an appreciative audience. While the days are long, and before my HOT SHOTS pals have a chance to get in summer tiffs or squabbles on the tennis IF YOU HAVE OPENED A FASHION MAGAZINE, OR ANY MAGAZINE FOR THAT MATTER, OVER court, early July is a great the last decade or so, you’ve seen the work of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, known time to throw a party. in the industry simply as Inez and Vinoodh. The Dutch photographers (partners in work and life) I call my friends first to invite Since then are the creative eyes behind such contemporary imagery as the Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, them, and then mail a cheery a zillion pals have Lanvin, Yohji Yamamoto and Chloé ad campaigns, and editorial work that regularly appears in reminder from The Printery in Oyster asked where I got my mini French Vogue, V, The New York Times and W. Starting Friday, a retrospective of 300 of their pho- Bay, engraved in pink with yellow calling cards and reminders. The tographs from 1985 to 2010, titled “Pretty Much Everything,” will be on view at Amsterdam’s Foam tissue lining, filling in the details by Printery did the invitations to my Museum through Sept. 15. Next year, Taschen will expand on the exhibition with an epic tome of hand with a pink felt-tip pen. This way daughter Samantha’s engagement 666 photographs accompanied by original fiction by A.M. Homes. Here, van Lamsweerde speaks on no one can forget. I order place cards party. They feel like part of my behalf of the duo about its work — past, present and future. with summery motifs like delicate family. green leaves or little red lobsters. The Elegant Setting in Southampton The Printery carries their designs. (Hoard them 43 West Main Street early. They always run out!) Oyster Bay, N.Y. The Printery’s owners, Bill Miller 516-922-3250 and his wife, Mary Abbene, appeared i-printery.com on the Southampton scene several years ago, displaying their wares at The Elegant Setting Steven Stolman’s store. For me, it 31 Main Street was love at first sight. The whimsy, Southampton, N.Y. the colors, the double borders…. theelegantsetting.com

THE LADIES AT WIMBLEDON MAY BE COMPETING FOR THE CHAMPIONSHIP title, but they also seem to be vying for most fashionable player. Maria Sharapova collaborated with Nike on her Lawn Rose dress, inspired by For more English rose petals and made from stretch jersey and mesh. And Caroline A spring 1998 Yohji Yamamoto images, see Wozniacki — ranked fourth in the world — has been sporting Stella campaign and Björk (right), both shot WWD.com . McCartney for Adidas for the second Wimbledon season running. In her by van Lamsweerde and Matadin. singles matches so far, she’s worn McCartney’s Tennis Performance dress, which has a printed and embroidered floral motif on the front. But Venus Williams leads the pack for the most outrageous number (outrageous at least for the buttoned-up British tourney) in a fringed, layered dress of her own “A LOT OF PEOPLE SAY THAT THEY FEEL design. “I call it my shimmy dress,” the number-two seed said last week, HYPNOTIZED AFTER THEY SHOOT WITH US.” adding the frock was inspired by Tina Turner. Talk about ballsy. — INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE, OF HER SHOOTS WITH PARTNER VINOODH MATADIN

ON BEING LABELED FASHION PHOTOGRAPHERS: We love what clothes do to build a character in your picture. There’s something that I find fascinating about the language of clothes. It’s kind of like a set of codes that everyone universally understands. A lot of people say, ‘Oh, I’m not into fashion. I don’t care about what I wear.’ But when they go for a job interview, they wear something different than [what they would wear] just to go work in the garden or pick up the kids from school. You are saying something with what you wear.

ON HER FAVORITE MODELS: Raquel Zimmermann, Daria Werbowy, Kate Moss and Anja Rubik. They all have this huge range. They’re mature, they’re grown up, they’re women who have had a life and ex- perience. For about five or six years now we haven’t shot anyone under 18 for that reason, but also for the fact that we feel that the modeling business should not promote girls working under 18. They’re not out of school, their bodies aren’t developed yet, they don’t have a sense of self yet, sometimes they haven’t had sex yet. It’s hard to project all these things on someone who hasn’t had that experience.

ON SHOOTING CELEBRITIES: I actually love it. It’s like a conquest each time. It’s kind of like — I don’t want to say seduction, but it has that part to it. I never really try to talk someone into doing something they don’t want to….We usually have an idea ahead of time what we would like to do, what our fantasy would be on a celebrity, what part we would like to bring out or change. Usually I get quite a good sense in the first five minutes as to how much they want to play with you and how open they are.…The sitting is no longer than 15 to 20 minutes. A lot of people say that they feel hypnotized after they shoot with us because it’s a very, very, very focused, short period of time. Usually within the first five frames I have the picture.

ON HER DREAM SUBJECT: I would love to shoot Prince. I’m a fan. I think he’s inspiring and I love the SHARAPOVA BY MATTHEW STOCKMAN/GETTY IMAGES MATTHEW BY SHARAPOVA way he moves his body and I think he’s a genius. And since there’s no more Michael Jackson, I would JULIAN FINNEY/GETTY WOZNIACKI BY IMAGES; WILLIAMS AND say he’d be the one. Venus Williams in her own design; Maria Sharapova in Nike; Caroline Wozniacki — Jessica Iredale in Stella McCartney for Adidas.

6 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010

A Guess billboard in Beijing.

Rising Chinese Middle Class Lures U.S. Stores Continued from page one in-shops, as well as having acquired the rights to sell The North The push by retail and apparel firms in China, preceded by Face brand products there. Chairman and ceo Eric Wiseman the expansion of luxury brands, has accelerated as they seek said this year that the Greensboro, N.C.-based company is tar- to diversify geographically because the international economic geting a 40 percent increase in distribution in China. crisis exposed the vulnerability of developed markets while Iconix plans to open 50 Candie’s stores in China by the end China’s economy grew 8.7 percent last year. of 2010 and 500 over the next five years, ceo Neil Cole said this China has “progressed from an economy of only the very, week at a Reuters Consumer and Retail Summit in New York. very wealthy that can afford a lot of the American brands to an The first unit is set for Shanghai in August. “We think the big economy that is starting to support a middle class,” said Kelly growth comes from China,” he said. Tackett, senior analyst, apparel, at the Kantar Retail consul- Calvin Klein Inc. president and ceo Tom Murry and tancy, which forecasts China will trail only the U.S. with retail American Apparel Inc. ceo Dov Charney, both speaking at the sales, excluding autos, of almost $1.6 trillion in 2013. Financial Times Business of Luxury Summit 2010 this month, “That middle class is showing an increased appetite for tempered the China fervor. Murry said China — about a $200 American goods,” Tackett said. “There is an opportunity for million business for Calvin Klein — is a small slice of the com- some of the more middle-market brands like Gap, like American pany’s $6 billion in sales. Apparel or even more aspirational luxury brands like Coach, to “There will be a gradual shift to that market over time,” really get a foothold.” Murry said. “China isn’t the only opportunity for growth….Our China ranked first among global markets with the highest appeal there is driven by our cachet in other countries.” Over potential for retail development in A.T. Kearney’s ninth annual the next five to 10 years, he said Calvin Klein’s business will study of areas ripe for expansion. “skew to Asia.” Luxury firms from Tiffany & Co. to LVMH Moët Hennessy Levi Strauss American Apparel’s short history in China — it opened the Louis Vuitton have banked on a prosperous sliver of the Chinese expects 650 units first of its three stores there in 2008 — bolsters the view that population that travels extensively, covets specialized products in China this year. U.S. retailers outside the luxury sector should take the long and has cash to spare. Mainstream American brands may have view. Without a recognizable logo signaling status, American a tougher road to reach broader swaths of the Chinese public, Apparel has had “challenges in China,” Charney said. identify suitable retail real estate and fine-tune advertising, staffing and product. “They [Chinese consumers] are looking for the Rolls Royce right now,” he said. “You haven’t seen really a lot of American retailers open a lot of stores there,” said “They are not looking to buy the Volvo.” American Apparel has opted to test the wa- Jeff Van Sinderen, a senior analyst with B. Riley and Co. “U.S. retailers and brands ters because Charney said in a few years, “The most important thing will be that you have to be careful…not all of China is going to work. There are select areas that are are an international brand.” going to work. There are certain brands that have an American sensibility that will The middle class is swelling, but it is still small and living costs are rising along work better than others.” with wages. In 2009, the average annual per capita income in urban households was Nike Inc. is often singled out as an American success story in China, where it has 18,858 yuan or less than $3,000. China’s National Bureau of Statistics estimated that fortified its brand over about three decades. The Beaverton, Ore.-based company has 17,175 yuan, or around $2,500, was disposable income, an almost 10 percent jump captured the largest share of the athletic footwear market in China and registered a from 2008. About 36.5 percent of urban household income was spent on food. 12 percent increase in sales there to $464 million in the fourth quarter ended May 31. “The market is split in two halves — the rich and the poor,” said Christopher Tang, a Over the next several years, Nike maintains there’s room for more growth and has professor at UCLA Anderson School of Management. “For those who have disposable in- promised significant investment in developing markets, which include China, and come, they go for the high-end brands. For those who are more price-sensitive, they go for Central and Eastern Europe, to generate low double-digit annual sales increases and the local brands….The middle range price for the U.S. market is still expensive in China.” an additional $3 billion to $3.5 billion in revenues by the 2015 fiscal year. Companies selling consumer goods have been encouraged by news that the “All evidence [is] that our premium distribution strategy and investment in China over Chinese central bank will slowly unhinge the yuan from the dollar. Christine Chen, a the last three years to five years is paying off,” Charles Denson, president specialty retail analyst with Needham & Co., indicated that American of Nike brand, said during a third-quarter earnings conference call. retailers with sales in China translated back to dollars would gain with Nike’s example indicates that persistence is rewarded in the the appreciation of the yuan. But Tang warned that currency apprecia- Chinese market, a lesson that Guess vice chairman and chief execu- tion must be coupled with strong wage increases to move the needle tive officer Paul Marciano takes to heart. Over the past three years, the for retail. Los Angeles-based company has opened about 40 stores in China, and Even if retailers must wait for profitability, many analysts believe Marciano anticipates that number will increase to 200 in three to five $1.6 leaping into China soon could be advantageous because the competi- years. This year, Marciano forecast Guess’ Chinese operations would tion is mounting. They stress that a retailer’s domestic business should break even or move into the black. TRILLION dictate whether an aggressive China strategy is pursued. A company “We have a big plan for China, but it’s a country where it requires ESTIMATED without hundreds or thousands of U.S. stores may not be in a hurry. us to be very cautious, to go not as fast as you can but as carefully RETAIL SALES Millard “Mickey” Drexler, ceo of J. Crew, said, “We have enough growth as you can,” he said. Speaking about retailers heading to China, he IN CHINA, in America. Except wholesale, online and in Canada, we don’t think added, “It takes a strong office. It takes a big investment and it takes EXCLUDING we need to be [overseas.] When we do it we want to be online only. We time to be patient to see some results coming. You cannot expect re- might have a big flagship in one city to drive sales.” sults in the first year or two years in China.” AUTOS, IN 2013. J. Crew launched a partnership last month with the Net-a-porter Branded apparel giant VF Corp. has made China a priority, selling SOURCE: KANTAR RETAIL fashion Web site, giving J. Crew instant presence in 170 countries. the Lee and Wrangler labels through about 400 brand stores and shops- Unlike J. Crew, B. Riley’s Van Sinderen said Gap has little room to WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 7 WWD.COM expand in the U.S. “They have to grow internationally,” Van Sinderen said. “Either that or they have to develop a new concept.” Chen said, “Now is a good time because the Chinese economy is starting to take off. The consumer aspect of it is very new, and there is a lot of wealth creation and Gap Launching China Strategy getting in early [is important].” By David Moin The long-term goal of large retail companies going to China is stretching their business so it doesn’t rely too heavily on one region, with the ultimate objective of GAP INC., WHICH HAS HAD AN UP-AND-DOWN, SOMETIMES ROCKY EXPERIENCE having an even split between sales in the U.S., Europe and Asia, she continued. overseas, considers its next move — China — “the cornerstone” of the firm’s global strategy. Gap is a long way from its Chinese enterprise contributing substantially to the On Wednesday, the $14.2 billion Gap, which generates $1.6 billion of its volume balance sheet. Still, Glenn Murphy, chairman and ceo of Gap Inc., was emphatic in overseas, divulged details of the company’s China foray, saying four large flagships in an earnings call about the brand’s Chinese debut in the fourth quarter. “We want to Beijing and Shanghai and e-commerce will launch simultaneously in the fourth quarter. go in there and compete,” he said, adding that “it is going to take a while in order High-profile locations and executives with global brand experience outside the apparel for me to put the investment in place that actually will return, not the ultimate re- sector are part of the program. turn on capital, but get immediate return on four-wall contribution.” Whereas Gap stores around the world are often franchised, the China units — at least the Gap’s approach is to launch with company-owned retail. Other options for stores first four — will be company owned and operated, and at 15,000 to 19,000 square feet each, are to team up with a franchise or a license partner, or invest in a Chinese re- will display the full range of Gap, GapKids, babyGap and 1969 Premium Jeans products. Gap tailer. American Eagle has signed a franchise agreement with Dickson Concepts expects to open its first Hong Kong stores next year, as well. (International) Ltd. and will unveil three stores in Hong Kong, Beijing and In Shanghai, a two-level unit will open on Nanjing West Road in the Venture Tech building. Shanghai in 2011. Levi Strauss, which expects to have 650 units by the end of this The other store will be on Mid Huaihai Road, one of the city’s high streets. In Beijing, a year and plans to unfurl a new brand aimed first at the Chinese market, with 20 two-level store will be in the APM building on Wanfujing Street, and the other unit will be in stores this year and 1,000 by 2015, has depended on the franchise model. Chaobei Joy City, a large regional shopping center. After 11 years in China, Wal-Mart opted to buy a 35 percent stake in Trust-Mart, At the new Gap China headquarters in Shanghai, an unorthodox dual leadership a Taiwan-owned supercenter retailer with considerable heft in China, in 2007 to management has been established. Redmond Yeung, formerly president and chief operating beef up its presence. The Bentonville, Ark.-based retail giant, which had 284 stores officer of China and Asia-Pacific for Best Buy, has been named president, to oversee business in China as of April 30, figured to purchase the remaining 65 percent of Trust-Mart development and real estate and navigate China’s bureaucracy. Lorenzo Moretti, formerly this year. Kevin Gardner, senior director, international corporate affairs at Wal- executive vice president and chief operating officer for Tesco in China, who also led Marks & Mart, refuted speculation in China that the deal was off. “We are working out com- Spencer’s expansion in Asia, has been named managing director to oversee store operations, plex administrative issues related to the closing,” he said. product-to-market activities and infrastructure development. They report to John Ermatinger, David Solomon, president of NAI ReStore, a division of commercial real estate president of Gap’s Asia-Pacific region. Earlier this week, Katherine Tsang, chairperson for services firm NAI Global that works with Wal-Mart in China, estimated the retailer China at the Standard Chartered plc bank, was appointed to Gap’s board. was looking to open 60 to 70 stores there this year. The China entry reflects the aggressive international agenda Glenn Murphy has brought “Any retailer who doesn’t want to be in China is missing a huge opportunity for to the table since he became Gap Inc. chairman and chief executive officer three years ago. growth,” he said. But officials say there’s a cautious, wait-and-see approach toward a larger China rollout in the For most American stores with ambitions in China, Yuval Atsmon, an associate future. “There is a long-term window for us in China,” Ermatinger said in an interview. “We principal in the Shanghai office of McKinsey & Co., said franchise or license part- want to go slow initially in order to go fast later on. The reason we went to a direct ownership ners are probably the best choice. They reduce the risk and retailers can benefit model is because we want to do it the right way. Our aspirations are not necessarily to be from local expertise. “They bring connections and the ability to do things much, the biggest, but to be the best. In these four locations and [on] our Web site, we will learn much faster,” Atsmon said. a tremendous amount from Chinese consumers in terms of their preferences. We are going After accumulating experience in China, U.S. companies may be able to detach to take a look at the rest of the Gap portfolio, which you know is a very unique attribute — from local partners. Marciano said his goal is for Guess stores in China is to be 30 Banana Republic, Old Navy, Piperlime, Athleta — to see how we would plot those.” percent company-owned and 70 percent franchised. Tod Gimbel, senior director of Ermatinger also said that after a few years, Gap will assess whether to open more company- corporate affairs at Levi Strauss’ Asia-Pacific division, said Levi’s eventual hope owned stores or pursue partnerships. “We don’t want to be full of ourselves, thinking we know is that the mix of franchised and everything there is to know about operating in China. It’s a big test. While the world will be owned stores for its new brand in watching, our biggest critic will be the Chinese consumer,” he said. China will be 50-50. The Chinese aren’t exactly clamoring to buy Gap, but the brand is not entirely unknown, In 2008, Coach Inc. acquired ESTIMATED either. “There is some level of recognition. Those that have the luxury of being able to travel its retail businesses in Hong NUMBER OF outside the country know it,” Ermatinger said. “However, I would say the majority of the Kong, Macau and Mainland MIDDLE-CLASS awareness of any brand is cultivated around the Internet. We are as China from former distributor CHINESE excited about the launch of e-commerce simultaneously with ImagineX Group. The accesso- BY 2020: brick and mortar for a lot of reasons. There are more than ries firm has 43 units in China 380 million consumers in China who actually use the and is on track to open 15 sites Internet regularly. That’s more than the U.S. and Japan this year and 20 next year, and combined. That’s projected to grow to 800 million in register $250 million in sales in MILLION three years. The Internet will be as much a brand- China by the 2012 fiscal year. SOURCE: EUROMONITOR building device as a commercial opportunity. But Atsmon emphasized that U.S. there is a learning curve.” retailers shouldn’t underesti- The Chinese, he added, want brands, mate how difficult it is to decode the700 Chinese market. Retailers must find the right particularly American ones. “There are a lot malls, the preferred shopping destinations for their brands and the right locations of brands in China, but in our space, there is within the malls. Even if they meet the real estate demands, Atsmon said retailers not an American representation yet so Gap is could face issues involving fit, sizing, pricing and staffing. looking forward to being that authentic purveyor of “The reality is that churn can be very high and training people to the right level casual apparel.…There is a distinction we have,” of salesmanship and support, especially for brands that people want to spend on Ermatinger said, citing Gap’s multigenerational appeal. for their service, is pretty challenging,” he said. The Gap stores, about twice the size of average units, Forever 21 is fully aware of the tribulations of the Chinese market. The Los represent “big expressions of the brand.…China is the Angeles-based fast-fashion retailer had a store in Changzhou, a city about two hours north of Shanghai. The location wasn’t ideal and Forever 21 pulled out last December. Although stores in China aren’t planned in the next year, the country will factor into Forever 21’s future growth “if we find the right location in a major While the world will be watching, our biggest city,” said spokeswoman Linda Chang. “ In five years, Kantar Retail’s Tackett envisions, “A lot more of the U.S. apparel critic will be the Chinese consumer. and retailers will be looking to get into China, but I also think we will see an emerg- ” ing Chinese fashion and retail industry that plays up to nationalism.” — John Ermatinger, Gap Asia-Pacific Marciano agreed on the second point, but isn’t convinced American brands will saturate China. “If you don’t have a strong structure and a clear strategy for what you want to do, it is not obvious for anybody to enter that market,” he said. third-largest apparel-consuming country in the world. The population is relatively young and — With contributions from Anne Riley-Katz the disposable income will only grow with time. There are tremendous opportunities, not only in China, but the Asia region.” Asked how many seasons must pass before Gap has digested enough data to weigh the Nike plans more investment in China. feasibility of a China rollout, Ermatinger said: “I wouldn’t be so confident to say it’s measured in seasons. I would be more confident to say it’s measured in years. The country is so vast it’s important to really get confirmation first, and that will only be in the cities we know: Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong.” Gap, though, is already exploring smaller cities to learn about real estate, consumer preferences and competition, Ermatinger said. In China, Gap will be attempting to create a “unique service model,” though without the exceedingly high standards seen at Gap and Banana Republic in Japan, where one-on-one relationships, attention to details, displays and wardrobing are priorities, Ermatinger said. “In China, it’s not part of their DNA. We will not be hovering, but we will be there to support the Chinese consumer. They are going to have lots of questions” and will be discerning, he stressed. “They don’t necessarily call it out, but they know the brands that are flattering to their more straight-up-and-down body type.” In addition, “they are very acute around quality because they are paying a high percent of their disposable income” for clothes. “It’s not unlike them to pull the sleeves of a jacket inside out and look at the stitching, the workmanship and the fabrications. There is a real attention to detail relative to quality, which is something I have grown to expect in Japan, but I wasn’t sure I was going to find that in China. The small details, the trim, the buttons, the zippers, whether it’s functional with a hood — these are the kinds of things they look at. “The other important thing is versatility. They don’t have very big closets so they look at the practical nature of what they purchase — to wear it to work and be able to twist it ever so little to wear after work to social events. Their apartments are very small. They just don’t have the capacity.” 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 homme run PARIS — AS MEN’S WEAR DESIGNERS PREPARE TO MOUNT THE STARTING BLOCKS IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL, In the black WWD SNUCK INTO HOTELS, ATELIERS at Dior AND SHOWROOMS AROUND THE CITY Homme. TO GRAB A SLICE OF THE ACTION. — KATYA FOREMAN AND LAURENT FOLCHER

Thom Browne keeps things in check. Antonio Marras shows who wears the pants at Kenzo.

PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND MARLEEN DANIELS Multitasking at Adam Kimmel.

See more images on WWD.com.

Natural selection at Viktor & Rolf. RAPID TRANSIT THROUGH THE WORLD OF SPORTSWEAR SKIN DEEP LEATHER AND DENIM LEGGINGS ARE THE PERFECT SEASONAL TRANSITION. THE IN CROWD WHO’S INFLUENCING THE YOUNG AND HIP? CS; FASHION ASSISTANT: ANA CALDERONE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY ANA CALDERONE; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: CS; FASHION HOT APPS DOWNLOADS WITH TEEN APPEAL.

Paige Premium Denim’s ruffl ed leather jacket and cotton and spandex jeggings. Skingraft’s gloves. PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: DANIELA SULZBACHER/IMG; HAIR BY SIEJI AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR NARS COSMETI MISUZU MIYAKE GROUP; MAKEUP BY THE WALL SIEJI AT MITRA; MODEL: DANIELA SULZBACHER/IMG; HAIR BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDFAST

FROM TAYLOR SWIFT AND LIL WAYNE TO MILEY CYRUS AND LEBRON JAMES, MEET THE LATEST WAVE OF NEW THE IN CROWD TASTEMAKERS. BY DAVID LIPKE

TEENS ARE A FICKLE, FAST-MOVING BUNCH — AS ANY One “older” star who’s been able to win over teens parent can attest — and when it comes to fashion trends and tweens, despite her ripe old age of 29, is Beyoncé, and the celebrities that influence them, what’s in one day said Ratican. “Beyoncé is still a huge infl uence on this can be quickly “dunzo” the next. TEEN QUEENS age group. She’s marketed herself very well and she Just a few years ago, it was starlets such as Mischa Barton, Q SCORE RANKINGS OF TRENDSETTING STARLETS has a lot of fun with her costumes.” Paris Hilton and Lindsay Lohan who were queen bees of the AND SINGERS (AMONG FEMALES AGES 12 TO 24). Appealing to Generations Y and Z is a highly lucrative teen set. But today, it’s a whole new crop of starlets and sing- business for celebrities and the fashion marketers who ers that hold the most sway over the middle school-to-college CELEBRITY PERCENT FAMILIAR Q SCORE can leverage their relationships with these tastemakers demographic. So move over, Paris and Lindsay — when it 1. Taylor Swift 92 51 — although this demographic’s spending has been some- comes to youth fashion, right now, it’s all about the stars from 2. Selena Gomez 80 40 what tempered by the frail economy. For the 12 months “Twilight,” the Disney and Nickelodeon channels, “Glee,” 3. Lea Michele 22 40 ended in April, teenagers and young adults 13 to 24 years “The Vampire Diaries” and fresh music acts such as Taylor 4. Lady Gaga 87 39 old spent $50.81 billion on apparel, down 6.4 percent Swift, Lady Gaga and Katy Perry that rule the schools, sty- 5. Rihanna 88 38 from the previous year, according to NPD Group fi gures. listically speaking. (Not that Hilton, Lohan and company are 6. Miranda Cosgrove 71 37 Females accounted for $33.59 billion of that amount, totally out of the picture — just somewhat eclipsed.) 7. Beyoncé 91 36 while guys generated $17.21 billion in sales. The same Swift is the top-scoring celebrity among a number of 8. Katy Perry 82 36 age group spent another $12.3 billion on accessories in young stars known for their style submitted to The Q Scores 9. Carrie Underwood 89 35 the past year, down 11 percent. Females spent $8.28 bil- Co. by WWD. Q Scores measure a performer’s overall ap- 10. Kristen Stewart 49 34 lion of that fi gure and guys spent $4.02 billion. peal and likability among those who are familiar with 11. Anne Hathaway 74 29 That spending power hasn’t been lost on fashion mar- him or her. Also scoring toward the top are Selena Gomez, 12. Blake Lively 38 28 keters who have made celebrity fashion labels almost Lea Michele from “Glee,” Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Miranda 13. Miley Cyrus 94 27 as common as designer labels, quickly signing up the Cosgrove of “iCarly,” Carrie Underwood and Kristen 14. Demi Lovato 61 26 newest batch of teen stars — such as Kmart’s Dream Out Stewart of “Twilight” who all have Q Scores above 30. (The 15. Kim Kardashian 63 25 Loud line with Gomez and Wal-Mart’s line with Miley average Q Score for all celebrities polled in this demo- 16. Vanessa Hudgens 65 24 Cyrus, co-branded with BCBG’s Max Azria. graphic segment, females ages 12 to 24, is 23.) 17. Gwen Stefani 83 23 “Celebrity infl uence seems to be increasing because Scoring toward the bottom were Lohan, Barton, Nicole 18. Leighton Meester 32 23 of the sheer exposure and 360-degree access the pub- Richie and reality stars Lauren Conrad and Whitney Port, 19. Scarlett Johansson 58 20 lic has to these personalities and their styles,” said Kit with Q Scores between 7 and 13. 20. Taylor Momsen 21 20 Nordmark, senior research manager at Chicago-based Among males in this age group, the top-scoring celeb- 21. Avril Lavigne 85 19 Teenage Research Unlimited. “And today, young shop- rities were Lil Wayne, T.I., snowboarder Shaun White, 22. Ashley Tisdale 83 19 pers don’t need a stylist and access and endless funds LeBron James and Jay-Z. 23. Lindsay Lohan 89 13 to invest in the latest trends. Fast-fashion stores such “The teen world moves so fast. The whole nature of 24. Lauren Conrad 55 11 as Forever 21 or H&M are able to reproduce the trendi- being a teenager is knowing what’s fresh and new,” said Ann 25. Mischa Barton 46 11 est looks almost overnight, giving shoppers access to af- Shoket, editor in chief of Seventeen magazine. “The newer fordable look-alikes.” SOURCE: WINTER 2010 STUDY BY MARKETING EVALUATIONS INC. THE Q celebrities are closer to the teen audience’s age and going SCORES CO. NOTE: THE Q SCORE MEASURES THE APPEAL AND LIKABILITY So what are the ingredients that turn a youthful singer, through the same life stages they are. They know someone OF A PERFORMER AMONG THOSE WHO KNOW THE PERFORMER. AMONG actress or extroverted reality star into a fashion icon? An like Nina Dobrev from ‘Degrassi: The Next Generation’ and FEMALES AGES 12 TO 24, THE AVERAGE Q SCORE OF MORE THAN 1,700 innate sense of style is key, as is consistently putting an now she’s become a breakout star on ‘The Vampire Diaries.’” CELEBRITIES RANKED IS 23. effort into creating a unique look, say celebrity watchers. For the age-obsessed world of Hollywood, teens can be a “The most infl uential celebrities for girls tend to cruel audience, no matter the star wattage involved. be those known for consistently expressing their own personal style in sophis- “Kate Hudson, Jennifer Garner, the ‘Sex and the City’ girls: The younger generation ticated, put-together ways. They’re considered fashion role models simply be- really doesn’t care that much about them,” said Kimmy Ratican, fashion and beauty cause they’re frequently out there making fashion statements, getting photo- editor at the teen-focused Web site Alloy.com and AlloyTV. “If I use Cameron Diaz or graphed, and they’re noticed for their cute, unique and often aspirational style,” Gwyneth Paltrow in a post, I get no page views. I just did a story on musical muses said Nordmark. “Celebrities like Rachel Bilson, Hayden Panettiere, Lauren and nobody commented on Gwen Stefani — although, to me, at age 29, she’s a big style Conrad, Whitney Port, Blake Lively, Leighton Meester, Reese Witherspoon, Carrie icon. They were much more interested in Katy Perry and Zooey Deschanel — people Underwood and Taylor Swift are particularly visible today. This group is known of their own generation. There’s such a narrow window to appeal to this age group. for wearing the latest looks in a very acceptable and adaptable way.” They are so connected with the Internet and movies and television, and they have a Nordmark added that teen girls and guys vary widely in their approaches to very quick infatuation period.” style role models. Continued on page 4 ; STEWART BY JOHNSTONE/KREUSCH/INFPHOTO.COM BY ; STEWART

COVER Beyoncé Taylor GIRLS Swift TOP 10 SEARCHES ON SEVENTEEN.COM, TO DATE IN 2010 (FEMALE CELEBRITIES ONLY). 1. Selena Gomez 2. Miley Cyrus 3. Taylor Momsen 4. Lauren Conrad 5. Taylor Swift 6. Nina Dobrev 7. Kristen Stewart 8. Vanessa Hudgens 9. Ashley Greene 10. Shailene Woodley SOURCE: SEVENTEEN, HEARST TEEN NETWORK

Kristen Stewart

Blake Selena Lively Gomez

Rihanna GOMEZ PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; LIVELY BY STEVE EICHNER; SWIFT BY JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE; BEYONCE BY ELDER ORDONEZ/INFPHOTO.COM BY JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE; BEYONCE STEVE EICHNER; SWIFT BY BY SARDELLA; LIVELY DONATO GOMEZ PHOTO BY Make an appointment to meet us at the following shows: ENK NY (Blue) ENK Childrensclub Intermezzo New York Coterie New York Magic Las Vegas

Featuring our new SS11 collections for Woman, Man, Kids and Accessories

Contact us at: [email protected] www. desigual.com 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDFAST

Continued from page 2 Apart from a celebrity’s own sense of style, observers say “Guys rely more often on what stores are carrying and influential stylists such as Stanley, Rachel Zoe and Simone TOP APPS what they’re seeing around or [what] other guys are wearing Harouche are central to the fashion personas of young stars. at school,” she explained. “However, certain guys, such as “As a stylist, I wear many different hats,” said Ashton Kutcher, Justin Timberlake or David Beckham, Harouche, who works with Cyrus, Christina Aguilera are some that receive respect when it comes to style.” and Richie. “I have to be a tastemaker, a trendsetter. I WITH TEEN For girls, personality counts, also, added Seventeen’s have to put myself in my client’s shoes and see what she Shoket, pointing to Conrad, who recently left MTV’s “The would want, but also use my own taste to blend the two Hills,” and Port of “The City.” “They are pretty nice girls, styles together.” not divas or drama queens, and they’ve got a cool sense Along with stylists, blogs are increasingly impor- APPEAL of style that’s accessible,” she said. tant in the creation of a celebrity’s fashion image. Olivia Palermo, who plays a self-centered, arrogant char- JustJared.com, for example, draws 10 million unique vis- THESE 10 IPHONE APPS acter on “The City,” on the other hand, does not resonate itors each month and 70 million page views. It’s younger OFTEN MAKE APPLE’S WEEKLY with teen girls, said Shoket. “Olivia is not a style icon. She’s spin-off, JustJaredJr.com, which targets the tween and LIST OF MOST DOWNLOADED not accessible and not likeable. She has a kind of icy polish teen demographics, attracts 2 million unique visitors that does not connect with our readers. Our girls are rooting monthly and 20 million page views. (IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER). for the nice girls,” she explained. Fashion is a major component — CATE T. CORCORAN Blogs and tabloids have made on the two JustJared sites, with off-duty dressing as important as, many of the postings accompa- NAME: Angry Birds if not more important than, red- nied by fashion credits, from PRICE: $0.99 carpet events in creating a star’s LEADING MEN clothes to accessories to jewelry. This game is the fashion bona fides. “Being a celeb- Q SCORE RANKINGS OF TRENDSETTING MALE The sites also feature an add-on top paid app in rity is so different today from what CELEBRITIES (AMONG MALES AGES 12 TO 24). from a company called Pixazza, 49 countries. it used to be 10 years ago,” said where each celebrity photo in- Gloria Baume, fashion director CELEBRITY PERCENT FAMILIAR Q SCORE cludes a “Get the look” tab, which 1. Lil Wayne 77 45 at Teen Vogue. “It used to be you heightens the fashion-centric ex- NAME: Guitar Hero made a movie, did 20 to 30 days of 2. T.I. 70 42 perience of the site. Viewers who publicity and then things would 3. Shaun White 54 39 click on it are directed to third- PRICE: $2.99 quiet down. Now, being a celebrity 4. LeBron James 75 37 party e-commerce sites, where Play like a rock star is a 24/7 job and every moment of 5. Jay-Z 82 36 they can immediately buy an on this video game- your life is documented.” 6. Tom Brady 76 31 item similar to what the celebrity turned-iPhone app. Baume pointed to Stewart as 7. Ashton Kutcher 63 31 is wearing. a unique type of fashion icon. 8. Sean “Diddy” Combs 62 31 Pixazza, which launched last “Kristen usually wears jeans 9. Usher 82 27 year and is partly financed by and sweatshirts and sneakers, 10. Kanye West 84 26 Google Ventures, offers up an exact NAME: The Sims 3 but on the red carpet, she trans- 11. Justin Timberlake 77 19 match in some cases, but usually PRICE: $4.99 forms and will wear Balenciaga 12. Kobe Bryant 77 18 showcases a similar item at a lower Another popular and Proenza Schouler. I think price rather than the designer SOURCE: WINTER 2010 STUDY BY MARKETING EVALUATIONS INC. THE Q game adapted to teenagers are really drawn to SCORES CO. NOTE: AMONG MALES AGES 12 TO 24, THE AVERAGE Q SCORE brands celebrities tend to wear. the Apple platform. that. They are in this awkward, OF MORE THAN 1,700 CELEBRITIES RANKED IS 22. “We want to offer afford- ugly-duckling stage of their lives able versions that the average and they appreciate this abil- consumer can buy,” noted Jim ity to transform into something magical,” said Baume. Everingham, founder and chief technology officer of NAME: Words With Friends “There’s a dichotomy to her.” Pixazza. The company has more than 50 partner brands PRICE: $2.99 Similarly, Taylor Momsen of “Gossip Girl” has created and e-tailers, such as Nordstrom, Gap, J.C. Penney and A crossword game a distinctive look for herself offscreen with her ripped Zappos. The Pixazza feature is also incorporated into you can play online tights and leather motorcycle jackets, and Cyrus has sin- the Web sites of Us Weekly, OK, “Access Hollywood” and with friends. gle-handedly made the motorcycle boot with cut-off jean Celebuzz, among others. shorts and slouchy sweater a look du jour. Celebrity stylist “Celebrities help take the risk out of fashion,” said Estee Stanley — who works with Michele, Jessica Biel and Tim Donza, research director at The Sound Research, NAME: Camera+…the Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen — pointed to Katie Holmes as a youth market research firm, of their enduring roles in ultimate photo app the catalyst for the recent “boyfriend jeans” surge and to the fashion world. “They show us the trends available to PRICE: $2.99 Rihanna for bringing sculptured shoulder pads into vogue. us. One day you can wear shutter shades like Kanye West Zoom, crop, borders and Stacey Bendet, chief executive officer and creative direc- and the next you can be preppy like the Jonas Brothers. tor at Alice + Olivia, a favorite brand of young Hollywood, When you grow up, you become more assured and find special effects for taking pointed to Lohan’s promotion of leggings, Hilton creating a your own sense of style. But when you’re young, you have photos with the iPhone. boom for dresses and Stewart pushing tomboy style. a lot more chances to play around.” NAME: Shazam PRICE: Free The famous app that IDs any song playing.

NAME: Pandora Radio PRICE: Free Pick some favorite tunes and Pandora streams them and similar songs and artists.

NAME: NikeID PRICE: Free Use colors from any photo to search for a similarly hued, crowd-sourced sneaker design or Nike apparel.

NAME: Mirror in Your Pocket PRICE: Free The number-one free utility app turns the iPhone’s screen into a mirror. Usher NAME: ESPN ScoreCenter PRICE: Free Shaun From golf to cricket to White football, scores and live Justin Timberlake Ashton sports details from around Kutcher the world. TIMBERLAKE PHOTO BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN; USHER BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; KUTCHER BY AMY GRAVES BY GIANNONI; KUTCHER GIOVANNI WHALEN; USHER BY KRISTEN SOMODY TIMBERLAKE PHOTO BY

6 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDWWDFASTFAST

FIERCE CREATURE NOT-SO-BASIC BLACKS WILL TAKE YOU FROM DAY TO “ECLIPSE.” ICS; FASHION ASSISTANT: ANA CALDERONE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY ANA CALDERONE; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ICS; FASHION

Prince Peter’s wool sweater with J Brand’s coated cotton and spandex jeans. Jennifer Ouellette’s headband; Guess Accessories’ medallion; Chrishabana’s cross necklace and ring.

Pour La Victoire’s DKNY Jeans’ Diesel’s leather bag. acrylic fur leather coat. shorts.

True Religion’s cotton and spandex jeans with crystal buttons. Urbanears Plattan’s headphones. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: DANIELA SULZBACHER/IMG; HAIR BY SEIJI AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR NARS COSMET MISUZU MIYAKE GROUP; MAKEUP BY THE WALL MITRA; MODEL: DANIELA SEIJI AT SULZBACHER/IMG; HAIR BY ROBERT PHOTOS BY

8 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDWWDFASTFAST

WILDA WOODSY ADVENTURE CALLS ONEFOR A BIT OF WHIMSY.

Spring&Clifton’s acrylic and wool knit sweater and garter legwarmers. Ranjana KIM FRIDAY ANA CALDERONE; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ICS; FASHION Khan’s headband; Chrishabana’s earrings; Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons’ necklace; Linea Pelle’s fringed bag (worn as a belt); Clarks’ desert boots.

AG Adriano Goldschmied’s cotton corduroys.

Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons’ horsehair and leather bracelets.

Billy Reid’s leather shoes. Denim of Virtue’s cotton denim overalls. DeLux’s wool knit hat. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: DANIELA SULZBACHER/IMG; HAIR BY SIEJI AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY MISUZU MIYAKE FOR NARS COSMET MISUZU MIYAKE GROUP; MAKEUP BY THE WALL MITRA; MODEL: DANIELA SIEJI AT SULZBACHER/IMG; HAIR BY ROBERT PHOTOS BY

10 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDFAST

SILVIAN HEACH’S RAPID RISE By Luisa Zargani SILVIAN HEACH DID NOT WRITE OFF 2009 AS THE “annus horribilis” it was for many in the fashion industry, as the Italian brand continued its fast-paced growth, inter- national expansion and product diversification. Last year, the company that produces and distributes the label, Arav Fashion SpA, posted a 40 percent gain in rev- enues, which reached 45 million euros, or $62.5 million at average exchange. The firm expects a 25 percent hike in sales in 2010 and to reach revenue of more than 100 million euros, or $123 million at current exchange, in 2012. The secret, described by co-owner, co-founder and chief executive officer Mena Marano, seems simple enough: A fall look from Silvian Heach. “The right balance of image, quality, product and price is our strength,” she said. “And constant injections of new product to stimulate our customers.” As fashion veterans, Marano and Amaturro knew ser- In just eight years, Silvian Heach’s contemporary and vice had to be a top priority for their Silvian Heach proj- trend-oriented looks targeting 18- to 35-year-olds have helped ect. The couple set up logistics in Nola, outside Naples, establish the brand domestically and internationally. The where the company is based. “This platform manages and executive said that with her husband, designer Giuseppe moves 6 million outfits a year, deliveries are fast and we Amaturro, she chose an Anglo-Saxon name because “England are able to cut costs,” said Marano. and Germany have a strong streak of creativity.” Service through the Internet is also key, with a Web For fall, products range from parka capes to soft jodh- site that sells product online, publishes a newsletter and purs, peaked shoulders and slashed jeans. Inspiration runs features a multimedia portal. “It’s one of our most impor- from Michael Jackson-esque sequined jackets to military tant tools,” said Marano, who also touts the value of social or rock tops, with plenty of touches from the Eighties, too. media, including Facebook and the brand’s iPhone app. This spring, the company opened its first store in China “We have an immediate feedback from customers….It re- — in Hangzhou — in collaboration with Wenzhou Oushi places phone calls and mail.” Import & Export Co. Ltd. There are now 55 Silvian Heach The company produces more than 600 outfits for each franchised boutiques worldwide, 15 directly operated stores collection and also counts children’s and accessories and 2,000 points of sale that carry the brand. “Our goal is lines. The latter, including footwear, bags and belts, was to expand in main international cities with growth poten- Mena Marano and launched last October. Retail prices range from 24 euros, tial, starting with China and with a focus on Spain, Russia, Giuseppe Amaturro or $30, for a shirt, to 34 euros ($42) for a pair of pants, to 59 Greece, Latvia, Kuwait and Egypt,” said Marano. euros ($72) for a jacket. Firmament’s new digs in Berlin. FIRMAMENT ON SOLID GROUND WHEN IT COMES TO INTERESTING STORE OPENINGS IN BERLIN, IT’S CURRENTLY A men’s moment. And leading the pack is Firmament, which in May moved from its slightly secre- tive second-floor apartment location in Prenzlauer Berg to the much heralded L-40 building on Linienstrasse in Mitte. But for shoppers, the thrill of discovery remains, having crossed the threshold and actually entered part of this private, Darth Vader-like construction, a collabora- tion between artist Cosima von Bonin and architect Roger Bundschuh. And, as with the original store and its older online brother, The Glade, founders André Storvoll and Jörg Haas have a penchant for stocking some of the most sought-after, hard-to-find and increasingly sophisticated streetwear labels on the planet. These include the Berlin- and now partially Brooklyn-based collection Acronym, whose minimal- ist-modern basics are executed in high-tech fabrics and spiked with functional but purposely hidden digital age details. Living Mutants, also a local label, is the only other German brand in the store. Firmament’s clean white racks feature selections from Canada’s Arc’teryx Veilance, America’s Supreme, Japanese labels Headporter Plus, Sophnet, Uniform Experiment, Billionaire Boys Club and Original Fake, plus Italy’s Stone Island Shadow and hand-picked accessories such as baby blue suede high-tops from Visvim or Nike exclusives including the HTM2 Run Boot Low TZ. The building’s jutting asymmetric lines caused the store’s carpenters some headaches, es- pecially the big window front, which was turned into a wood-paneled walk-in display space for special installations and product presentations. As for Firmament’s assortment, Storvoll noted: “The portfolio is always in motion. We’re pleased with the configuration today, but we’re always looking for new brands.” So, apparently, is the store’s fan base, which even includes notables like Eric Clapton. In Berlin for a gig, Clapton stopped by the new location. “He’s into the Japanese brands,” Storvoll explained, “and is friends with Hiroshi Fujiwara.” — Melissa Drier FIRMAMENT PHOTOS BY ACHIM HATZIUS FIRMAMENT PHOTOS BY

WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 9 WWD.COM men’s Smart thinking for Dunhill’s Kim Jones. collections/spring PARIS 2011

Fittings, fittings, fittings at The Viridi-Anne. Hermès’ Veronique Nichanian remains grounded.

Home sweet home for Yohji Yamamoto.

In the name of the robe at Damir Doma.

Making movies at Maison Art attack at Jean Paul Gaultier. Martin Margiela. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 WWD.COM Men’s HMX Owners Battle, No Closings Seen Levi’s Outlines New Premium Strategy By Vicki M. Young By David Lipke to protect. It was essential that Levi’s be part of our matrix. It’s one of our biggest brands in THERE’S SOME FRICTION BETWEEN PRINCIPAL OWNERS LEVI STRAUSS & CO. HAS LAUNCHED A NEW denim,” said Samantha Carter, the retailer’s Emerisque Brands U.K. Ltd. and SKNL North America B.V., but all systems vehicle for its premium denim business, creat- associate buyer for men’s denim. “The washes are go at HMX Group, which, despite market reports to the contrary, has no ing a stand-alone division headquartered in are clean, the pocket treatments are clean and plans to close any of its factories, according to its chief executive officer. Amsterdam, called Levi’s XX. we’ve had a very positive reaction to the line.” “All the rumors are absolutely false,” said HMX ceo Doug Williams. Established a year ago, the division soft Barneys also launched the newly expand- “We are running our factory in Chicago at full capacity. The turnaround launched a new premium denim and sports- ed Levi’s Vintage Clothing collection in eight is functioning the way we all wanted it to. We took excess demand from wear label globally last spring, called Levi’s doors in the spring, and is betting bigger on Chicago and put it in our Rochester factory to support customer demand.” Made & Crafted, with a full rollout coming for that business for fall, bringing it into 24 doors. Williams noted the men’s apparel firm has three factories — in Des fall. Additionally, the existing Levi’s Vintage Launched in 1999, Levi’s Vintage Clothing Plaines, Ill., Rochester, N.Y., and Hamilton, Ontario — and that it no lon- Clothing label, which offers high-end replica is a true boutique business, offering authen- ger matters what the nameplate is on the outside of the factory. designs from the company’s archives, was ex- tic reproductions of historic Levi’s styles from “These factories are the core assets of HMX. Even though Rochester was panded into a more comprehensive collection as far back as 1890, right down to their period our Hickey Freeman factory, we moved some production of trousers and this year. labels and packaging. Prior to this year, the sport coats to Rochester to support Hart Schaffner Marx. We do what we “The aim of this division is to conquer a collection was highly limited in scope and have to do to meet the demand of our customers in the U.S.,” Williams said. piece of the market that Levi’s has struggled distribution, with almost all the emphasis on When bankrupt Hartmarx Corp. needed to reach, with truly premium, elevated prod- bottoms. For fall, the offerings have more than an exit strategy in 2009, it was London- uct,” said Maurizio Donadi, global senior vice tripled to about 170 stockkeeping units, in- Doug based financial investment firm Emerisque president at Levi’s XX. “This is something cluding jackets, shirts, knitwear and wovens. Williams that initially bid for the men’s apparel firm. that is very dear to Levi’s, and we want to be- “It’s a true wardrobe now,” explained Donadi. Emerisque later brought in SKNL as an ad- come a big player in the premium market. We “But it will remain a jewel of a business. It’s ditional investor. The $128.4 million trans- are bringing some of the romance and poetry not about volume.” action closed in August. of denim back to the Levi’s brand — the brand Levi’s Vintage Clothing, which is primarily Since then, there has been occasional en- that invented the blue jean.” a men’s business, will be in 95 North American mity between the owners involving fee dis- The Levi’s Made & Crafted label effectively doors this fall, including American Rag, Ron putes and consultancy services that arose replaces the Levi’s Capital E business, which Herman, Blackbird, By George, Brooklyn from their shareholders’ agreement, which was the premium label offered in the U.S. from Denim Co., Atrium and Need Supply. Jeans in is now the subject of an overseas lawsuit. 2006 to the end of last year. Overseas, Levi’s the line retail for $250 to $850; jackets for $250 Williams spoke via telephone from Made & Crafted subsumes a number of different to $600; leather for $950 to $1,200; woven shirts Mumbai after completing two meetings, premium ranges. The move represents Levi’s for $185 to $300, and T-shirts for $69 to $95. one involving SKNL management and the efforts to consolidate other with the HMX board, which included and focus its premi- SKNL’s Nitin S. Kasliwal and Emerisque’s um offerings under Ajay Khaitan. one global label as One source with knowledge of the situ- the brand works to ation said neither one wants to exit the expand its foothold partnership, and confirmed that both have in a market where it a clear aim of making sure HMX succeeds faces a raft of trend- with its goal of producing merchandise in savvy competitors the U.S. and marketing it on that basis. SKNL is facing pressure from the such as Seven For Indian shareholders for a faster return on its investment, even though the All Mankind, True HMX turnaround is proceeding on course, the source said. Religion and Diesel. “I can’t comment on ownership down the road,” Williams said. “The Levi’s Made & challenges between the owners [are being dealt] with in the appropriate Crafted jeans retail channel. [However,] their commitment to HMX and the resources [they from $150 to $225, make available] to HMX are undeniable.” with jackets at $175 These issues, however, aren’t affecting the manner in which HMX is run. to $495, leather from “My goal, first and foremost, is to deliver to our customers….,” Williams $750 to $850, woven Women’s (left) told WWD. “With Joseph Abboud as my partner, we are making new prod- shirts from $125 to and men’s looks ucts and designs that are relevant to consumers. Whether it’s the $695 $225, T-shirts from from Levi’s Made [price point] or $3,000, we want to own the market, and we are well on our $59 to $69 and non- & Crafted. way to accomplish that.” denim bottoms from Abboud is president and chief creative officer of HMX. $150 to $200. While Williams acknowledged that each owner has differing opinions The label will be in 62 North American For the North American market, both at times, he said neither of the partners dictates to him what decisions men’s accounts and 178 men’s doors this fall, Levi’s Vintage Clothing and Levi’s Made are to be made on how to operate the company. including Barneys New York, Bloomingdale’s, & Crafted are sold out of the independent “Any perception of pressure on myself or HMX to move the company Saks Fifth Avenue, American Rag, Sharon Namaste showrooms in New York and Los offshore is false to the core,” the ceo said. “While I feel no pressure to move Segal at Fred Segal Santa Monica, Scoop Angeles, headed up by David Coury. Neither toward sourcing products offshore, I do look at [SKNL’s] facilities in fabric and Steven Alan. In women’s, it will be in line will be sold out of any of Levi’s own U.S. manufacturing as an opportunity to use Joe’s expertise in designing prod- 53 accounts and 90 doors (73 percent of Levi retail stores this year. ucts in fabrics unique to us at a cost basis none of our competitors will get.” Strauss & Co. business was in men’s last year). Levi’s XX is a division of Levi’s Europe for SKNL, through its portfolio of brands, owns mills in India, Italy and Barneys was among the stores to launch financial accounting purposes, but services the Scotland. Levi’s Made & Crafted last spring in all 28 company’s global regions. Japan is the divi- Emerisque declined to comment and executives at SKNL could not be doors. “Capital E was a strong performer for sion’s largest market, followed by the U.S., the reached for comment. us, and this was a business we really wanted U.K. and France.

nally done and happy with the way things turned out,” said Mastey. He describes the clientele as “fashion-forward, style- Baxter Opens Barbershop in L.A. conscious guys. He’s a little bit hipster,” he added, saying, “We also see guys trending to tradition.” By Matthew W. Evans thing I’ve wanted to do for four or five years. The concept Mastey’s father had a salon in Beverly Hills, and was to do a cool, men’s environment, and the natural evo- Finley was a neighbor who had the personal care brand MEN’S PERSONAL CARE BRAND BAXTER OF lution of that [was] to do a barbershop.” He noted that a at the time. Mastey, who is of French-Moroccan descent, California, which was founded by Baxter Finley in 1965, longtime friend and real estate agent Allen Roth part- noted his grandfather was a hairdresser in Morocco. has taken the plunge into retail and services with nered with him and is also an investor in the venture. “It’s kind of in the bloodlines,” Mastey said of the the opening of the firm’s first barbershop. “It’s been a long couple of months, but we’re fi- hairstyling streak. Located at 515 North La Cienega Blvd. in The simple, old-world-feel space features re- Los Angeles, the 1,000-square-foot space claimed Douglas fir flooring, subway-tiled walls, boasts a retail area of 300 square feet, fea- Koken White King barber chairs — dating back to the turing such brands as Baxter’s own per- early 1900s — custom oak-marble back bars and gold sonal care products and shaving tools, as leaf on the glass front door. “This is like a shop my well as brands retaW, Dr. Bronner’s, D.R. dad or grandfather used to go to. Harris and Marvis, to name a few. men’s “It was important for me to do something very The four-chair shop is called Baxter masculine — not to be confused with a hair salon, Finley, Barber & Shop. The shop marks corner spa or lounge,” Mastey added. “If this takes off and the brand’s 45th anniversary, and industry the response is positive, which it has been, I’d love sources estimate the space, which was opened to do another outpost here in L.A.” last month, is on track to target upward of $250,000 Competing venues in the area include Rudy’s in sales and services during its first year. Barbershop, Shorty’s Barber Shop and Floyd’s The barbershop offers basic cuts and shaves only, Barbershop. Also recently opened in the vicinity include for $40 each, and a combined cut and shave for $75. The Proper Barber Shop and the Barber Shop Club. Also, beard trims and buzz cuts can be ordered off Mastey welcomes the influx of these trendy, inde- the menu. pendent businesses. Discussing the inspiration for the shop, Jean Inside Baxter Finley, “I think it’s going to get more guys out of salons,” Pierre Mastey, president and owner of Baxter of Barber & Shop. he said. “It’s great if guys get into the old-fashioned, California after acquiring it in 2001, said, “It’s some- nostalgic barbershop vibe.” WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 11 WWD.COM

A look from Designer Bride Showcases Lines David Meister.

AIMING TO GAIN MORE OF THE DESIGNER WEDDING DRESS showed 12 dresses inspired by destination weddings in re- JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY market, Designer Bride showcased its four collections in a runway sort towns such as Palm Beach, Fla.; Palm Springs, Calif., and show at the event space 583 Park. Nantucket, Mass. The collection featured signature Lilly prints Chief executive officer Sever Garcia pulled up a front-row done in “white on white” and the “Lilly lace” applied on a gown. seat to see the new lines from Lilly Pulitzer, David Meister, Angel Standouts were the short versions, such as a lace cocktail dress Sanchez and Carmen Marc Valvo. He said there is a need for with cap sleeves and a grosgrain ribbon belt. well-priced designer gowns for women in their 30s and Designer Meanwhile, Meister showed one style with a beaded bodice Bride’s four labels will be sold in 61 stores in the U.S. at an aver- with a memory taffeta tulip skirt, and a blue tulle ballgown with age price of $3,000. a tiered full skirt and ruched detail. Carmen Marc Valvo went for Afterward, Sanchez said the Angel collection will retail from dreamy and fairylike with a Grecian pleated chiffon sheath and a $2,200 to $3,200, which is considerably less than his own bridal lace and charmeuse off-the-shoulder gown with beaded banding line. “The challenge is to make it look expensive without doing for the fantasy-seeking brides. the stereotypical wedding dress,” he said. Lastly, Sanchez played with simple and slim silhouettes, Meister, who is new to the bridal scene, said, “To me, this was such as column, A-line and trumpet, but added some “touch- a natural extension from eveningwear. Bridal should be like a es of drama throughout,” as in silver thread embroidery on red-carpet dress so that when a woman steps out and is seen for a tiered ballgown or a front cascade detail on a silk organza the first time, people say, ‘Wow.’” strapless gown. The first collection down the runway was Lilly Pulitzer, which — Rosemary Feitelberg and Mayte Allende Pringle to Exit New Bond St. The New Top Choice By Samantha Conti LONDON — Pringle plans to for Business & Fashion shutter its New Bond Street store here and move into smaller premises in Mayfair, Up to 170,000 sq.ft. available WWD has learned. Victoria’s Secret will take over the cur- rent Pringle space, on the corner of New Bond Street and Brook Street, to open its first flagship outside North America. The store is expected to span 16,500 square feet and open in 2012. Pringle chief executive of- ficer Mary-Adair Macaire said the brand was transferring the space to Victoria’s Secret be- cause it was taking a “revised approach” to retail. “We have been refining the Pringle of Scotland retail format in collaboration with BROADWAY the architect, Jamie Fobert. With this in mind, we are closing our Bond Street shop later this month and pursu- ing smaller locations that better feature our men’s and women’s wear collections as well as serving to showcase SAMPLE FLOOR PLAN our collaborative projects,” she said. Macaire added that Entire 32nd Floor 14,307 sq.ft. WITH SPECTACULAR Pringle would not be leaving Entire 30th Floor 15,088 sq.ft. TOWER FLOOR VIEWS central London altogether, and is looking for a smaller Entire 10th and 11th Floors 35,000 sq.ft. each TWO 70,000 location. She said the com- CONTIGUOUS SQ.FT. pany would continue scouting Entire 3rd and 4th Floors 35,000 sq.ft. each BLOCKS for space for a New York flag- ship store. A Pringle spokesman said the location of the next London BROADWAY store would likely be near Savile Row or Conduit Street, With an $81 million top-to-bottom upgrade program near completion, our Pre-War and would be 1,080 to 1,620 Trophy provides the premier state-of-the-art business environment for a prestigious square feet, compared with the New Bond Street store, which roster of office and fashion tenants. Renovations include new entrances, lobby spans 5,200 square feet over and windows, new air-conditioned public corridors, restrooms and upgraded building two floors. systems. A short walk to Penn Station, Grand Central Terminal, Port Authority and Pringle will also be launching its first e-com- the A, C, E, 1, 2, 3, 7, N, R, Q and W subway lines and Times Square Shuttle. merce site in August and Up to 170,000 sq.ft. available in total with full fl oors from 15,000 - 35,000 sq.ft. open its first concession at and pre-built and build-to-suit spaces from 2,000 - 7,000 sq.ft. Harvey Nichols. The company moved into Thank you for giving us the opportunity to compete for your business. 111-112 New Bond Street in fall 2002. The space former- ly housed Emporio Armani. The brand also has a flagship and head offices on Sloane Street. Pringle was in the midst of refurbishing the Michael Frantz, Director WWW.1400BROADWAYNY.COM New Bond Street unit, and the new store, designed by 212-372-2203 • [email protected] 100% COMMISSION ON SIGNING Supervised by Malkin Holdings Fobert, was to be unveiled in September. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 WWD.COM Forever 21’s Big Footprint in Times Square By Sharon Edelson hung with mirrors in distressed frames. A teal tank dress with ruffle trim is $27.80; a sleeveless gray dress with an embroidered tulle overlay, $24.80, and a coral dress with NEW YORK — The four-level, 91,257-square-foot flagship that Forever 21 will open in beading, $27.80. There’s a full shoe department on the third lower level, but styles are Times Square Friday represents the scope of the retailer’s $100 million-plus ambi- interspersed within the brands, such as a chinoiserie-print platform pump with a bow tions in Manhattan. in dresses, $25. Specials highlighted in the store include $9.50 for tight stretch jeans That’s the sales projection for the store in the first year, said founder and chief and $3.50 for camis. executive officer Don Chang. A giant handbag with a gold chain, a huge lipstick and compact herald cosmetics “The Times Square store will be more productive because we’ll have a lot of traf- and accessories on the first lower level. fic and more time,” he said, referencing the fact that the store at 1540 Broadway will The Stud Room on the third lower level was conceived for Times Square by Esther be open from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m. It also will have 151 fitting rooms, 32 cash registers and and features apparel with studs. Walls are covered with 3,000 gold studs. “My favorite 500 employees. [room] to design was the gold-studded room, which is unique to the Times Square New York City icons are celebrated throughout the flagship, either faithfully exe- location,” Esther said. “Not only is it a personal reflection of my style, but also of the cuted or reinterpreted. A genuine yellow direction of where Forever 21 is heading.” taxi cab on the third lower level has been Forever 21 is trying to expand its reach tagged by a graffiti artist. Mannequins sit on The Lipstick beyond the teens and tweens with whom it the hood and roof surrounded by Forever Room features has long been associated. Collections such 21 signs spelled out in Broadway lights. brightly colored as the contemporary Love 21 “has more Different mannequins can be found through- cotton pieces and sophisticated styles and more modest cuts out the store. Some are faceless, some head- playful prints. compared to our other lines,” said Don. less and some are remarkably realistic with “Love 21 is great for women who work. But delicate features and softly colored hair. it’s not just age. We have many styles for 24- On the first lower level, accessories are or even 40-year-olds. We are not just for the sold from white carts with pink stripes teen market. We provide styles for anyone with mannequins dressed as street vendors who wants to feel trendy.” hovering nearby. Love 21, a contemporary “A couple of research reports we have collection, is displayed in an environment access to say that 40 percent of our custom- meant to evoke a New York apartment er base is over 25 years old,” said Linda. with shelving, windows with peach drapes The Times Square unit is not Forever and a dozen different lamp shades hanging 21’s largest store. A unit at Riverside Plaza throughout. Scaffolding — a ubiquitous New in Riverside, Calif., which opened last year, York sight — is used as a design element in has 184,234 square feet of space. “We’re al- the store, and yellow police “caution” tape ways thinking of new ideas for new prod- is used judiciously. “We even brought in a ucts and new services,” said Don. “We’re real graffiti artist to add a little artistic grit considering different categories in home throughout the store,” said Esther Chang, vi- furnishings.” sual manager and the 23-year-old daughter A genuine New York taxi cab Forever 21 last year purchased at auc- of Forever 21 founder Don. on the third lower level. tion leases to 13 former Mervyns and 14 Turns on fashion and visual displays former Gottschalks locations for its large- will be fast. “The merchandise will change format stores. “We are always looking for daily,” said Don. “The Times Square store better locations and bigger boxes,” Don will go through merchandise faster and the said, adding the retailer still has plenty of visual aspect will change faster.” The store room to grow in the U.S. “We have close to will be closed for six hours every day, just 500 stores. We think we can have 1,000.” enough time to make the switches, said Part of Forever 21’s success comes Linda Chang, senior marketing manager from its ability to tailor assortments to and Don’s 28-year-old daughter. local communities. “When we do alloca- On the main floor, which has 26-foot ceil- tions of merchandise, we’ll send trendier ings, a wall of mother-of-pearl-colored pail- items to the Times Square store,” said lettes shimmers above the main cash wrap Linda. “We don’t carry the same merchan- and a glowing Forever 21 logo. The flagship dise at each store.” has elements of retail as theater. An LED The retailer’s seasonal collections in- screen box at the entrance offers a bit of clude Twist, the next incarnation of which red-carpet magic: As consumers walk be- will feature an updated, modern Minnie neath the screen, sensors trigger bulbs that For more images, see WWD.com. Mouse through a collaboration with Disney. flash like those of a paparazzo. GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY “It’s not for every customer,” Linda said of To make the massive store less intimi- Twist. “Minnie Mouse is an iconic charac- dating, Esther developed store-within-a-store concepts for Forever 21’s various brands. ter. We love her femininity and love giving her a real twist.” Each concept shop has its own glass vitrine dedicated to a neighborhood in Manhattan Forever 21 is dabbling with designer collaborations. Brian Lichtenberg, known and Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Inside, mannequins are dressed in styles indicative of for his crime-scene tape design for Lady Gaga’s “Telephone” video, designed a series each area. For SoHo, two chic mannequins sit beside a cafe table surrounded by of graphic T-shirts for Forever 21, bowing in August. “We don’t have a specific plan,” shopping bags. A display case near 21 Men, the fast-growing men’s collection, reads Linda said of designer hookups. “We went with an L.A.-based designer who felt stylis- Meatpacking District and models wear vintage clothing, while hanging scales and ex- tically similar to us. We’re definitely open to everything.” posed brick bring the neighborhood to mind. “Men’s doesn’t go to every store,” said Don said the Times Square store should help accelerate the pace of Forever 21’s Linda. “We’re having an inventory issue because we’re selling out of it so quickly.” global expansion by exposing international shoppers to the brand. The retailer, which There’s a wood tree house in HTG 1981, the kids’ area, along with glass jars filled has opened stores in Japan, South Korea and China, plans to unveil its first European with gum balls, crayons, marbles and baseballs. Books on display include “The Sky’s stores this year in Framingham in the U.K. and Dublin. Units will open next year in The Limit” and, incongruously, a psychology primer. Lingerie is displayed in a setting London, Paris and Madrid or Barcelona. with lavender walls, cabbage rose wallpaper, a wrought-iron bed, crystal chandeliers In fact, Don is looking for growth anywhere and everywhere. “We’re still looking and white-and-gold chairs. “Le Chic est Facile,” reads the back wall of the dress shop, for acquisitions — any opportunity that interests me,” he said. “I’m still hungry.” Silvia Venturini Fendi Sets Program at AltaRoma By Luisa Zargani Coinciding with the shows, an exhibition “Limited/ Venturini Fendi also remains eager to find and nur- Unlimited” will take place at the Pelanda space at the ture new designers, particularly through initiatives like MILAN — In her new role as president of AltaRoma, the new contemporary art museum MACRO, with an in- “Who is on Next?” initiated in 2005 with Vogue Italia. A association that organizes couture shows in the Italian stallation of clothes by designers including Tommaso capsule collection by one of the finalists will be avail- capital, Silvia Venturini Fendi plans to support young Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, Albino D’Amato, able on e-tailer Yoox, come September. “This contest is designers, map out Rome’s network of fashion artisans Alessandro Dell’Acqua for his new line N.21, Gabriele growing, with more than 1,200 requests to participate to leverage their strength, and add a more contempo- Colangelo, Marco De Vincenzo, Sergio Zambon, in five years,” said Venturini Fendi, who plans to put rary touch to couture. Maurizio Pecoraro, Rodolfo Paglialunga for Vionnet these young designers in contact with the artisans in “We must create a meeting point between new de- and Diego Dolcini. “This show is meant to underscore Rome, tailors and seamstresses that produce for the signers and our historical maisons or traditional, local the couture and artisanal details of these designers’ movie and theater industry, cobblers, made-to-order laboratories,” said Venturini Fendi during a presenta- pieces, often entirely made by hand,” said Venturini eyewear and button-makers based throughout the city. tion of the 17th edition of AltaRomAltaModa, running Fendi. London-based artist Maurizio Anzeri, who is Venturini Fendi and her team, who have a yearly budget July 10 to 14. known for his life-size hair sculptures and his collabo- of more than 2.7 million euros, or $3.3 million, to work In addition to staple couture houses regularly rations with Isabella Blow and Alexander McQueen, with, mapped out a list of artisans and their shops and showing in Rome, from Sarli to Raffaella Curiel and will show at the Pelanda. laboratories in Rome’s different districts in a new book, Balestra, Venturini Fendi, who is also accessories di- Fendi and Valentino ateliers will be open for visits “A.I. 1,” which stands for “Italian Artisans, Artificial rector for her family’s company, has invited Paris-based and the latter will present an installation in collabora- Intelligence or Italian Artists,” she said. Corrado De Biase to be guest designer of the week. tion with artist Michelangelo Pistoletto on July 11. A Another book, “Una guida su misura Roma,” by This will be the first runway show for De Biase, a John multimedia installation will be staged at the antique Pascal Godran and prefaced by Venturini Fendi, is a Galliano designer who previously worked for Fendi and Temple of Hadrian and pay tribute to Roberto Capucci, compilation of 120 bespoke tailors and accessories mak- Yves Saint Laurent. who will attend the inauguration on July 9. ers in Rome.

14 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 WWD.COM For full daily stock changes and more Financial financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. Markets See Past Fed’s More Dour Outlook By Evan Clark in apparel prices is inevitable, especially Apparel Drives Nike’s 4th-Qtr. Gains in 2011, we are not as worried as many in- By Arnold J. Karr firm’s other businesses more than com- THE FEDERAL RESERVE CAUGHT A vestors appear to be,” said Eric Beder, ana- pensated for the flagship brand’s short- bit of the European debt jitters — noting lyst at Brean Murray, Carret & Co. DOUBLE-DIGIT GAINS IN NIKE fall, rising 71 percent to $72.5 million. that developments abroad have made fi- Beder said apparel is relatively inex- Inc.’s apparel business and increased The firm reported the future order nancial conditions “less supportive” of pensive after years of deflation, and con- marketing — or “higher demand cre- position of the Nike brand was ahead growth — but investors Wednesday looked sumers would accept higher prices for ation spending,” in company par- 7 percent, or 10 percent without cur- past the assessment, which simply under- strong fashions. lance — for the World Cup and other rency fluctuation. lined the general sentiment that already “Clothing is not milk, an everyday pur- programs contributed For the full year, had depressed markets. chase of an undifferentiated item that leads to a more than 50 per- net income was up The S&P Retail Index inched up 0.2 per- to almost immediate notice when prices cent boost in fourth- 28.3 percent to $1.91 cent, or 0.92 points, to 416.74 Wednesday change,” Beder said. “Natural shifts in quarter profits. billion, or $3.86 a di- as the Dow Jones Industrial Average in- trends — i.e., from clean denim to distressed In the three months luted share, while rev- creased just 4.92 points to 10,298.44. Retail denim looks — bring price increases.” ended May 31, the enues dipped 0.8 per- gainers included Bebe Stores Inc., up 4.7 Global stock markets generally pulled Beaverton, Ore.-based cent to $19.01 billion. percent to $6.63; The Men’s Wearhouse back on Wednesday. sports footwear and ap- Nike said net income Inc., 3.3 percent to $19.53; Chico’s FAS Inc., The CAC 40 fell 1.7 percent to 3,641.79 in parel giant generated would have been lift- 3.1 percent to $10.92, and Aéropostale Inc., Paris, as the FTSE 100 dropped 1.3 percent net income of $521.9 ed 2 percent without 1.8 percent to $29.88. to 5,178.52 in London and the DAX slipped million, or $1.06 a di- restructuring and im- The Fed’s open market committee, led 1 percent to 6,204.52 in Frankfurt. luted share, 1 cent above pairment charges. by chairman Ben Bernanke, reiterated that The Nikkei 225 fell 1.9 percent to analysts’ estimates and On the company interest rates would be kept “exceptionally 9,923.70 in Tokyo as the SSE Composite 52.9 percent higher than conference call, Mark low” for “an extended period.” “Household Index dipped 0.7 percent to 2,569.87 in the $341.4 million, or 70 Parker, president and spending is increasing but remains con- Shanghai and the Hang Seng Index ticked cents, registered in the chief executive offi- strained by high unemployment, modest up 0.2 percent to 20,856.61 in Hong Kong. final quarter of 2009. cer, noted that affili- income growth, lower housing wealth and • Faranda Joins Movado: Joe Faranda, former Excluding noncash re- ate brands including tight credit,” the committee said. chief marketing officer of International structuring charges in Hurley and Converse “Financial conditions have become less Flavors & Fragrances, has joined Movado the year-ago quarter, net Nike apparel sales “contributed more supportive of economic growth on balance, Group Inc. in the new post of senior vice income and EPS would grew 13 percent. than $2 billion in reve- largely reflecting developments abroad,” president of consumer insights and stra- have increased 7 per- nue” and that revenues the committee said. tegic planning for the Movado and ESQ by cent, the firm said. from the company’s Although that was a reference to the debt Movado brands. Faranda, who reports to Sales in the quarter stores and online busi- crisis that started in Greece and has cast a Efraim Grinberg, chairman and chief ex- grew 7.7 percent to $5.08 billion from ness increased to nearly $2.5 billion. shadow over Europe, retail investors have ecutive officer of Movado, spent 17 years $4.71 billion and would have risen 4 Also on Wednesday, Rite Aid Corp. been thinking along the same lines this with Avon Products Inc. in positions in- percent without favorable currency reported that it narrowed its first- week. They have been casting their eyes cluding vice president of marketing re- shifts, Nike said. Benefitting from bet- quarter loss, thanks to a decline in more toward China, where policy makers search. His responsibilities at Movado ter in-line margins, fewer closeouts selling, general and administrative indicated they might allow the yuan to begin include the development and oversight of and growth and improved profitability costs and lower charges related to appreciating, making it more expensive for strategic plans for the two brands, moni- in its stores and “other businesses” store closings. Western firms to buy Chinese-made goods. toring market trends and supervising con- segment, gross margin jumped to 47.4 The firm reported a net loss of $73.7 “While we believe some type of increase sumer insight programs. percent of sales from 43.4 percent a million, or 9 cents a diluted share, 5 year ago. cents better than the analyst consen- Leading the surge in top-line sus estimate, versus a loss of $98.4 mil- growth was the firm’s apparel business lion, or 11 cents a share, in the year- under the Nike banner, which rose 13 ago quarter. Sales for the three months David Webb Acquired by Investment Group percent to $1.32 billion in the quarter, ended May 29 came in at $6.39 billion, DAVID WEBB FINE JEWELERS, A BANKRUPT NEW YORK-BASED FIRM THAT versus 6.6 percent growth in its domi- a 2.1 percent slide compared with operates a Madison Avenue boutique and a salon in the Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel nant footwear business to $2.75 billion. $6.53 billion in the prior year. in Beverly Hills, has been acquired by a group of three buyers. Revenues rose 3.8 percent in North At the company’s annual meeting Financial terms were not disclosed. America, to $1.76 billion, and were up Wednesday, John Standley, president, The purchasers were Sima Ghadamian, chief executive officer and founder of Sima in all regions but Japan, where volume succeeded Mary Sammons as chief G. Ltd. and Moonbeam Consulting, and Robert Sadian and Mark Emanuel, co-owners slid 7.7 percent to $260.6 million, a de- executive officer of the firm. Sammons of European Art & Antiques. They are three of the four fine jewelers comprising FOF crease that grew to 12 percent when remains chairman until June 2012. Inventory Holding, which acquired part ownership in estate jeweler Fred Leighton last currency changes were excluded. The firm attributed the quarterly November. Business in emerging markets was up sales decline to store closings and a David Webb, a 62-year-old company known for its nature-inspired collection with ruby, 47.2 percent to $556 million. 1 percent decline in same-store sales. emerald and sapphire cabochons, had been under ownership of the Silberstein family Earnings before interest and taxes Front-end comparable-store sales since 1975. The firm filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in June 2009, citing an rose 40.2 percent to $685.3 million de- were off 1.3 percent. “increase in operating costs and a decrease in sales due to poor economic conditions, spite a 2.4 percent dip in Nike brand — With contributions from resulting in substantial cash flow difficulties.” EBIT to $795.3 million. EBIT at the Matthew W. Evans — Lauren Benet Stephenson 10 BEST PERFORMERS 10 WORST PERFORMERS

DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLUME AMT DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW LAST %CHANGE HIGH LOW LAST %CHANGE

6.81 6.47 Bebe (BEBE) - 1080667 6.63 4.74 5.25 4.85 Hampshire (HAMP) - 6233 5 -9.09

885 817 Asos * (ASC:LN) 43.0 1004283 860 3.61 2.12 1.93 Zale (ZLC) - 1118407 1.95 -6.25

19.75 18.44 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 18.5 1169152 19.53 3.28 12.53 11.75 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 77029 11.95 -4.70

11.04 10.56 Chico’s (CHS) 20.8 4989113 10.92 3.12 41.5 39.5 French Connection * (FCCN:LN) - 60069 40.25 -4.17

11.49 10.59 Crocs (CROX) - 3103851 11.34 2.90 23.07 21.93 Oxford (OXM) 18.6 190850 22.28 -3.38

2.2 2.05 Bluefly (BFLY) - 20907 2.15 2.38 6.85 6.5 Glimcher (GRT) - 903835 6.58 -3.38

37.1 35.67 Under Armour (UA) 36.3 589226 36.65 2.09 0.3335 0.3155 Aeffe * (AEF:IM) - 141828 0.3155 -3.37

39.43 38.48 Family Dollar (FDO) 16.4 2851316 39.19 1.92 32.79 31.18 Rue21 (RUE) 40.2 234389 31.85 -3.31

3.4099 3.24 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 575149 3.31 1.85 15.1 14.52 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 19.3 97802 14.56 -3.13

30.24 29.1 Aéropostale (ARO) 12.0 2494562 29.88 1.84 19.9 19.28 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 16.3 19926 19.29 -3.07

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2010 15 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS upper eight levels of Manzoni 31, or the future Armani Hotel consumer object — a process that makes the latter more noble, Elly Jackson Milano, are currently under construction. The designer’s second I think,” mused Venturini Fendi. with Viktor hotel after Dubai is slated to be unveiled in 2011, having been Horsting and postponed from the previously estimated 2010 opening. WILD ABOUT HARRY: Prince Harry is slated to wear Lapo Elkann’s Ralph Snoeren. Italia Independent label during a polo match against Ralph EDUN HITS LIBERTY: Ali Hewson made an early call at Liberty Lauren model and Argentine polo champ Nacho Figueras to be of London Wednesday morning, to launch her Edun label’s held on Governors Island on June 27. “We like Harry. He’s fun. pre-fall capsule collection and a pop- If you had to choose between William PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY up concession at the store. Hewson, and Harry, wouldn’t you pick Harry?” who’s married to U2’s Bono, also Elkann teased during a presentation invited a gaggle of 6-year-olds from an of his line on Friday, when he also East London school, whom she had launched a few women’s styles. tapped to design drawings that will end up on a collection of Edun T-shirts, MALE CALL: As men’s fashion week gets the profits from which will benefit under way in Paris today, designers England’s Variety Club charity. “They’re would do well to court the 15-to-29 beautiful…very bright and happy,” age group, a segment in France that is said Hewson of the children’s T-shirt matching women’s apparel in terms of IN FOR THE THRILL: Pop sensation Elly Jackson, aka La Roux, designs. sales. That was one finding presented will be the surprise guest opening Paris men’s fashion week at The children’s drawings, which are in a new study by the French Fashion Viktor & Rolf today. “I love suits. I wouldn’t feel comfortable in inspired by their London surroundings Institute released Wednesday and girls’ clothes,” said the boyish redhead, who heads next month and feature double-decker buses, titled, “Fashion: It’s a Men’s Moment.” Ali Hewson at Liberty of London. to Miami, San Diego and Los Angeles for some warm-up gigs flowers and butterflies, will be on Frenchmen belonging to the 15-to-29 ahead of a big U.S. tour in November. “Apart from [hairstylist] display in Liberty so customers can vote on their favorite age group spent a total of 3.4 billion euros, or $4.74 billion at Charlie Le Mindu, I’ve never been to a fashion show before.” design. The winning drawing will then appear on an Edun current exchange, in 2009 on clothing. Meanwhile, 78 percent For today’s show, Jackson will wear a Viktor & Rolf men’s T-shirt to be released in November and sold exclusively at of 208 men surveyed listed the jean as the number-one item tux, paired with the designers’ signature specs. “We love her Liberty. Hewson said partnering with Liberty had been a natural they’re most willing to invest in. “What was most revelatory style. We love her authenticity. We love the way she plays with move. “It’s one of the nicest stores in London — there’s a was the importance men attribute to their gender. So it felt logical. She’s right for our men’s clothes,” certain thoughtfulness in the store, it’s inspiring just to walk appearance today,” said Gildas Minvielle, A look Viktor Horsting said. She could be right for men’s accessories through it,” said Hewson. However, Hewson, a mother of four, head of the economic observatory at IFM. from too. On the runway, the designers said she wasn’t planning to check Rad will unveil their first collection of out any other London landmarks TOTALLY RAD: Rad Hourani has always Hourani. men’s bags. The duo could also be during her short stay. “I like my bed designed his collection as a unisex set for some air time on YouTube — these days — that’s a sight I’d like concept, but he specifically addressed if Jackson has her way. “I’ve asked to see,” she said with a laugh. the men’s market for the first time with a them to play a role in the new ‘In presentation during Paris men’s fashion For the Kill’ video,” she said with FAMILY TIES: Ilaria Venturini Fendi week. He also used the occasion to a grin. “There’s a part they’d be presented her latest Carmina launch a line of carryovers called perfect for. Hopefully they’ll be into Campus bags at a cocktail event Classic. In addition, Galerie Joyce, it. If not, we’ll have to find look- at design boutique Skitsch held where he held the presentation alikes with glasses.” in Milan on Tuesday during men’s on Wednesday night, is exhibiting fashion week. The roomy shopping “Tranclassic,” Hourani’s photography MOVING DOORS: Don’t go looking The Armani megastore in bags were created by recycling a and video installation, through for the Armani Junior store in Via Via Montenapoleone. work made with PVC by artist Ugo July 22. The models in the images Montenapoleone. The company Nespolo, previously displayed at include Helena Christensen, Elisa has moved the boutique to the Milan’s main train station. Venturini Sednaoui and Charlotte di Calypso. Armani/Manzoni 31 megastore a few steps away. Armani Junior Fendi, whose collection is always made with used materials and Paris-based and Jordanian-born comprises three different lines — baby, junior and teen, but the fabrics, designed these bags, limited to 150 pieces, to mark Hourani was a stylist in Montreal latter will no longer be carried by year’s end. The 3,229-square- the 150th anniversary of Campari drinks, whose caps adorn before launching his urban-goth foot space on the lower ground floor was previously occupied the accessories. “Culture meets the market,” said Venturini collection, which he normally shows by Armani Casa and features clean lines and pastel colors. The Fendi. “I can’t recall a work of art that has been turned into a in New York.

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces

COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE

25 million Royalty-Free, CAD-Ready Textile Designs — 100% Editable Re-color & Visualize in Products! PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Showrooms & Lofts All line, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Call Sherry 212-719-0622 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Sales Executive BRAND MANAGER Junior Apparel firm seeking experi- 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Strong connections; Looking for com- pany that wants to grow business. enced Brand Manager who has Menswear Showrooms 609-405-4882 launched new brands and introduced D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 brands into new markets. Candidate will be responsible for plan- ning, developing and directing the marketing efforts for all branded products. Minimum 5 years experience and fash- Line Design from Concept to Sample ion experience required. Product Development | Merchandising For startup and established businesses Please email resume to: T 212 252 9370 | E [email protected] [email protected] FAIRCHILD CLASSIFIED IS NOW SELF SERVICE! To place a print ad, go to www.fairchildclassified.com For online-only recruitment ads, go to wwdcareers.com