Nail Care Services, Yesterday and Today
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Nail Care Services, Yesterday and Today 4 CE Hours By: JoAnn Stills Learning objectives: Describe the three treatment benefits of paraffin services. List the reasons for performing soakless manicures and Describe the two ways essential oils work. pedicures. State the purpose of LED and specify the wavelength of Describe the soakless manicure and pedicure protocols. those used in manicures and pedicures. Perform analysis of the skin and nails on manicuring and Describe how LED is used in a service. pedicuring clients. State where Mycobacterium fortuitum is usually found. List the treatments and home care products for the seven Explain the purpose of a health questionnaire for nail skin conditions of the hands and feet. salons. Describe how ingredients are listed on retail labels. List the steps to qualify clients for pedicures. List nail conditions and their treatment. Describe the differences between traditional and skin care- based manicures and pedicures. PART I – A GROWING SPECIALTY Pedicuring – A long past The pedicure is enjoying a recent surge of popularity in the More recent than that but still long ago, evidence is found that United States. It is a service that was generally left off the in the ancient Egyptian Indus Valley civilization (300 BCE) menu of most salons as recently as 1990. When it was on men and women were concerned about their face care, body the service menu, most beauty professionals performed the care and foot care. There are references in the bible that, feet service reluctantly when it was appointed. When performed, were often bathed by servants. It was an honor for a guest’s feet pedicures were considered “a manicure on the feet,” but even to be washed, and considered a gesture of respect from the host. those who specialized in manicuring did few pedicures, if any, before the mid-1990s. They did not want to touch feet, even Both women and men have enjoyed manicures for thousands those of people who were willing to pay well for pedicures. of years, but pedicures are believed to have been mostly a male All feet were considered dirty and smelly by these beauty service. They were an important part of the grooming regimen professionals. of many men, possibly to treat their calluses or to reduce the pain of sore feet, and performed at home by servants, in a club The history of manicuring is also the history of pedicuring, or in a public bath. In early times, manicures were performed though its “coming out” as a popular public service was for the beautification of the hands, while most pedicures are delayed and more subtle for pedicures. Both manicuring and believed to have been performed primarily for cleansing. pedicuring have a past extending thousands of years, and Women were slower to come to beautification foot care. were offered in many cultures – including India, China, Egypt Until the very early 20th century, women wore long dresses and Rome – to the elite in their societies, and are mentioned with their feet and ankles out of sight, so pedicures were not in ancient writings such as hieroglyphics. Ancient cultural performed for beautification. For wealthy women, it was a rare writings, whatever the form, reflect that pedicures – more ritual of relaxation and pampering, not performed especially for accurately referred to as “foot care” – began being offered beautification, and usually provided at home. 5,000 years ago in India, with henna used as nail polish. Pedicure development in the U.S. The professional license required by state regulatory agencies pedicures an unpleasant service to provide. Because few for performing manicures and pedicures in the United States professionals listed pedicures as a service, few clients knew was initially in cosmetology. Known as hair designers because the enjoyment and beauty they offer. Until recently, pedicures of a preference for working with hair, many cosmetologists were not considered a highly demanded or profitable service for would perform a manicure on a hair client, but considered salons. Cosmetology.EliteCME.com Page 1 Pedicures are not a new service in the United States, though they inner specialty in the beauty industry. By 1980, nail salons were were ignored by most salons until recently. An advertisement in opening in most cities. the May 18, 1910, issue of the Denver Evening Post mentions pedicure services, and ads for pedicures could be seen in large For example, look at Columbus, Ohio: In 1980, three nail cities prior to that. Because they were a service that 1) did not salons were in business, soon to become four, on and on. In have special furnishings or implements, 2) did not have a special the years since, the phrase “a nail salon on every corner” has location in salons, 3) were not suggested during cross referrals of become an accurate description of the nail business expansion services, and 4) might have held a small, unnoticed place on the in almost every city. Now it is estimated that more than 200 menu that indicated “… and we also will do a pedicure, if you specialty salons in the Columbus area offer nail and pedicure ask or insist”, pedicures were not a big seller. services exclusively. Then, in the 1970s, artificial nails, known as “acrylic nails,” In the very early 1990s, day spas became a quickly developing began to develop as a serious service in salons and an important reality, although many initially did not offer nail services specialty in the beauty business. They quickly became a fashion because they did not want to have the acrylic odor in their spas. statement for women. In just a few years, the services boomed, In fact, the American Spa Association listed nail services as and they officially came into the lifestyle of fashionable women “optional” in its definition of “day spa” in its early literature, when the leading ladies of the era’s popular TV shows “Dallas” and they were not required to be in the facility to be called a and “Dynasty” wore them. With this new popularity, the nail day spa. But clients wanted nail services, so spas added a few table came out of the back room to into the front of the salon, nail tables and pampering natural nail services; a few added the bringing the accompanying smells with it. It became a featured artificial nail service in a separate room because of the smell. In service, providing significant money to salons’ bottom lines. the early development of spas, it appears that the few spas that This popularity brought artistic respectability for the salons and offered acrylics in the formative years of the spa concept were professionals specializing in them. those developed through expansion of hair salons. These salons added spa-type services in a quiet area of the salon, but wished The speedy development of the popularity of artificial nails to maintain their currently active and profitable hair and nail quickly moved natural nail services into the background of the departments. However, pedicures were still not performed in beauty industry. Many nail salons took them off their service most spas, even in the ones that focused on relaxation. menus because the salons viewed them as a low profit service, and the cosmetologists specializing in acrylic nails did not Day spas eventually brought pedicures into the beauty industry want to perform them; they made more money performing in the mid-1990s. Although European Touch had developed artificial nail services. Their acrylic nail clients became high- and put the spa pedicure chair on the market in 1985, it wasn’t ticket “regulars” following their first application, immediately until day spas became significant in the beauty world that the scheduling standing appointments for maintenance. The acrylic product and concept took off. The day spas loved the new nail services brought in the most money per service in the nail chairs. These heating and massaging chairs with bubbling departments. Soon, finding enough cosmetologists to meet the whirlpools for the feet were perfect for spas and met their focus demand for these new services became a problem, especially of pampering services; they swirled and soaked, massaged and because few of them fully specialized in the service. The vibrated, bringing ultimate relaxation to clients who discovered industry’s answer was to develop a specialty license, titled pedicures when they were offered in these wonderful chairs. “manicurist,” and states added manicuring licenses over time About the same time, Creative Nail Design (CND) of Vista, through their legislatures. This new specialty required minimal Calif., developed the first Spa Pedicure Kit and protocol, education and was not restrictive in who could take the course. bringing more attention to pedicures. The pedicure industry Now all states, except Connecticut have a separate manicuring began to grow quickly, and by 1995, only a few spas did not license. Originally, the hours required were as low as 50 hours; have a whirlpool chair to offer the pedicure service. cosmetologists took that many hours in just a single long From these developments, the concept of the basic and spa hair design course. Some states have maintained low hour pedicure menu evolved, and pedicures became the service to requirements for licensure, such as Delaware’s (125 clock have in a spa package. The monthly pedicure, routine foot care hours), Ohio and Maine (200 clock hours), but most states have and beautification were soon accepted as a ritual for many raised the requirements over the years to as high as 750 clock women in the large cities where more spas were available. The hours in Alabama and others. services sold themselves, and once a client experienced one in The beauty industry began to change when the new nail specialty a package, the spas knew they would be back for the service became popular.