Music! Thinking Out Loud About the Future of Music

A RacistRacist Children'sChildren's BookBook isis Reissued:Reissued: BlackBlack IcelandIceland RespondsResponds • RememberingRemembering IcelandIceland Airwaves IcelandicIcelandic CitizenshipCitizenship CanCan bebe Yours,Yours, IfIf YouYou knowknow thethe ProcessProcess – WeWe ExplainExplain ItIt

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 17 // Nov 2 - Dec 6 2007 02 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Year 5 | November 02 – December 06

The Reykjavík Grapevine Articles Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is I Only Ask For Hard Work 06 [email protected] Interview with Ólafur Jóhannesson www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine Published by Fröken ehf. You Too Can be a Citizen 10 The process of applying for citizenship in Iceland Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Opinions Publisher: +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Ten Little Who? 08 An opinion by Gabriele R. Gudbjartsson The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: One Little Nigger 08 Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson An opinion by Marvin Lee Dupree [email protected] Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Assistant Editor: Features Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Editorial Intern: Big Business vs. Icelandic 12 Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir / [email protected] Will the language barrier exclude Iceland from the global economy? Contributing Writer: Ian Watson / www.ianwatson.org The Last Days of the Labels 16 Art Director: The music industry is turned on its side Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson [email protected] Music & Nightlife Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Airwaves in photos 18 Sales Director: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson Airwaves Highlights 20 [email protected] Support Manager: Better the Devil You Knew… 20 Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Jezebel and Who Knew at Organ Distribution: Samúel Bjarnason / [email protected] CD and Book Reviews 21 Proofreader: Jane Victoria Appleton Folk and Frost 22 The rise of Icelandís folk-inspired movement Press releases: [email protected] Submissions inquiries: [email protected] Outside Reykjavík Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Destination: Lake Mývatn 23 General inquiries: [email protected] Across the Country in 40 Days 28 Adventures of the Lonesome Traveller, Leg III The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be info. reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Although Listings B2 the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, Food Reviews B10 prices and details may be subject to change. The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, Shopping B12 Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key locations around road The MOMS Parade B14 #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist Interview with art collective MOMS information centres.

It’s Our Party, and Weíll Play if We Want to B15 You may not like it, but at least it's not spon- Interview with FM Belfast sored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 30.000 copies.

From the Editor’s Chair

The longest month of my professional life has just has risen in this country over the publication. Two system. This has long been known, but Icelandic passed, figuratively speaking. This is the fifth is- regular contributors to the Grapevine, Marvin Lee government officials have never made a point of Music! sue we put out in less than a month, counting the Dupree and Gabriele Guðbjartsson, contacted me informing people of the whos, hows and whys of Thinking Out Loud About the Future of Music three daily Airwaves issues we completed less and asked for an opportunity to air their opinion this shortcut. Until now, this shortcut has been than two weeks ago. By now, we are out of energy, on the matter. Unlike most of the people who have used for the selected few who Icelandic govern- out of patience and more or less out of reasonable made noise, especially those who have cried over ment officials have deemed worthy of receiving thinking. Fortunately, I am blessed with good co- free-speech infringements, Marvin and Gabriele Icelandic citizenship without going through the workers. If not for the infamous Grapevine cama- have a stake in this discussion, as they are on proper channels. Ian has dug his heels in and re- raderie, this daunting task would probably have the receiving end of the incredible tastelessness quested answers so you too might enjoy this privi- been impossible. When you spend 10-12 hours a this publication represents. I applaud their con- lege.

A RacistRacist Children'sChildren's BookBook isis Reissued:Reissued: BlackBlack IcelandIceland RespondsResponds • RememberingRemembering IcelandIceland Airwaves day in a room with the same people, every day, for tributions and hope that their writing will open This issue is full of other interesting mate- IcelandicIcelandic CitizenshipCitizenship CanCan bebe Yours,Yours, IfIf YouYou knowknow thethe ProcessProcess – WeWe ExplainExplain ItIt

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 17 // Nov 2 - Dec 6 2007 over a month, two things can happen: either you some eyes to the hurt that words can cause when rial. I would probably go through it with you, but form strong bonds, or someone ends up dead. As people forget that freedom of speech needs to be I think it is about time for me to head home, and luck has it, no one is dead. Yet. exercised with great responsibility. say goodbye to my partners in crime here at the On cover: Recently, the publishing house Skrudda re- Ian Watson has investigated a loophole Grapevine. Until next time at least. Kele Okereke of Bloc Party published an old translation of the nursery rhyme of sorts in the Icelandic immigration laws. I use at Iceland Airwaves Ten Little Niggers, one of the most harrowing texts the word loophole freely here. It seems there is Photo by: ever put together for children. A feverish debate a shortcut for certain individuals through the Emma Svensson 2525 CIN 5x39 shoes.ai 10/31/07 9:35:13 AM 04 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Letters Sour Grapes

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected].

We were in Iceland last year for our 25th anniversary, and we for they’re money and get little in return. The base model LIVED on skyr. I am unable to find a domestic supplier of it of cars here cost what the luxury model costs in the states in the States, and just now was unable to find an live online so it’s no wonder people buy them there and import them link to maybe order some from Iceland! Can you advise? here. Computers are okay, but most are way over priced Rumors of Whole Foods carrying the product are definitely considering the components in them. I’m a foreigner mar- false. ried to an Icelandic woman, and my main connection home Lauren M is through the internet. As you can imagine my pay is high Houston, Texas, USA so prices don’t affect me so much, but for the average Joe or Johannes are there better deals out there or is it a matter of Dear Lauren, how you look at it or is it all relative? So, you like our skyr. That is understandable, as a healthi- er dairy product is hardly available anywhere in the world. Jeffrey Bogans Except for bovine colostrums perhaps, which is an excellent dish when boiled and served with cinnamon. I suggest you Dear Jeffrey try that the next time you visit. But, skyr… no, sorry I don’t Hmm… I would rather say as little as possible about Icelandic know where you can find it Stateside. I think your best bet is investigative reporting, but I think I know what your problem probably to contact the producer (www.ms.is) and ask them is. It looks like you are shortchanging yourself by buying a if it is available somewhere. But one thing I do know. You can cheap Internet subscription. The problem with the cheaper order Icelandic candy from www.nammi.is. Have you tried the subscription packages is that they usually include a cap on Icelandic liquorice? It is the best in the world! available download, 4 gb is a common number, and once you exceed the download cap, you pay extra for every mb. This Editor would explain your Internet bill. I suggest you read Ian Wat- son’s articles on Internet and telephone subscription packages in issues 12 and 13. It is available online at www.grapevine. Hi is. Yes sir, stop pinching your pennies on the subscription and I’m writing to ask is there ever any investigative reporting go for the good stuff. Apparently, the prices don’t affect you so done in the main stream media here? Having lived here for much, since your pay is high. And in case you didn’t know, a few years, and experiencing a few different business prac- downloading movies in illegal. tices I wonder if Icelanders are getting screwed. I mean, do people think about what they get for the Editor money they spend? On the internet I was surprised to see I was being charged for using skype which is free as far as I knew. I have an 80GB Ipod that can store HD quality movies to store on my cheap 500Gb hard drive, but it’ll cost me another Ipod to download them? The sales I see adver- tised aren’t if you look at most of the flyers the prices are pretty much the same. I come from a big consumer nation (the US) which has it’s pros and cons, but you can find a good deal on just about everything. I guess it’s the lack of competition and other taxation issues I don’t yet understand, but it seems to me Icelanders work hard

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06 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Interview

Ólafur Jóhannesson is the newly appointed coach of the Icelandic national football team. Photo by GAS

I Only Ask for Hard Work

In Iceland, there are roughly three hundred thou- only seems fair to ask, were you already pre- fact is that few nations are as demanding of results Of course everybody sand coaches for the national football team. Unfor- paring for the national team position then? as the Icelandic people. The demands are high, tunately, only one of them is employed by the Ice- No, many people have mentioned this, but there but what I will demand is that when we go into wants to go to England. landic Football Association. As of this week, that is no correlation. I had been coaching FH for five games, the players will work hard. I think they usu- man is Ólafur Jóhannesson, who was announced years, it was a great time, but I think I had man- ally do that, but when they leave the pitch, I want It is the Mecca of football as a replacement for former coach Eyjólfur Sver- aged to squeeze everything out of them that I pos- players to feel good about having done everything risson last Monday. Ólafur has been a successful sibly could and vice versa. I was invited back, but they can. That is all we can ask for, really. If play- with the most money and coach in Iceland for over 20 years. At the end of I thought this would be a good time to move on. ers do that every single game, I am certain that this summer, he stepped down as coach of the do- I think both parties were kind of relieved when I we’re capable of achieving great things. I believe the most attention. But mestic club FH after the team failed in their bid to made that decision actually. After I announced that the gap between us and bigger nations is di- win the Icelandic Championship for the fourth year my resignation, I was determined to take a year minishing. there’s no point going running and finished second in the league. The off and not coach at all this year. I was returning Do you think we could reach the same level team only managed to land the Icelandic Cup, their back to normal, physically, and I felt great about as the other Nordic countries then? to England if you’re not worst season since 2003. Now Ólafur will work his the decision. But when this came up, I simply Yes, I believe that is a realistic goal. We have more magic on the pitch for the Icelandic National Team. could not say no. players turning pro so we have more players that playing. The team will play its first game, against Denmark Did you ever have any doubts? are training more regularly and in better condi- at Parken, November 21. About taking this job? No, never. Of course I had tions and that should result in better football play- seen my name suggested as a replacement if [for- ers. However, many young players leave for the How did you get started in coaching? mer national team coach] Eyjólfur’s contract was pros in other countries, just to go pro, and end up Now there’s a story. My wife was studying at uni- not to be renewed, so I had given a little thought to riding the bench or even fail to make selection. versity in 1981 and one of her classmates was a what I would say if the call came. When it came, I I was going to ask you about exactly this point. member of a small sports club in Vopnafjörður never had any doubts. It seems to be engraved in Icelandic players’ in eastern Iceland, called Einherji. At a party that Did you expect the call? minds that they want to play in England, and winter, he approached me and asked if I was will- I hadn’t really thought about it previously, but many of them go there. Do you think it’s bet- ing to come back east and coach his club. I had when the media discussion started I thought I ter for players to aim for the smaller profes- never coached before, not even kids, but I told was just as likely to be asked as the other coaches sional leagues where they get to play, rather him I was ready to do it. He got back to me the mentioned. But it never kept me up at night. than focus on the big leagues where they next day and asked, “Remember what you said There is often debate about whether the Ice- might not get an opportunity to play? last night?” That’s how I started coaching. landic national team should focus on using Of course everybody wants to go to England. It is So you actually started coaching on a drunk- its own tactic, or play reactionary and adapt the Mecca of football with the most money and en promise? its approach to that of the opposing team. the most attention. But there’s no point going to Yes, you could say that. But, yes, I went east to Vo- Where do you stand on this question? England if you’re not playing. You will not improve pnafjörður to coach and spent three years there, I am still thinking about this issue. The thing is as a football player by sitting on the bench. You and now I’ve been coaching for over 20 years. that Icelandic football fans only demand one will only improve by playing competitive football In 1996, you took on another small club when thing: results. If you don’t get results, you will be on a regular basis. I think it’s better for them to go you moved to Borgarnes (pop. 2500) to coach heavily criticised and ultimately ousted. The key to smaller leagues where they will get an opportu- the Skallgrímur team, and you took that team to getting good results is to defend. I will stress nity to play. If you do well there, you will undoubt- to the top division. I want to ask what you defence heavily – playing good defence the right edly get a chance to play in a bigger league. Many think is more of an accomplishment: taking way and defending with many players. I will stress players are looking at the pay check, but hopefully a big club like FH, full of good players and this a lot, but at the same time I realise we need to your first contract won’t be your last contract. If it with a lot of resources and turning them into have a plan when we have possession. You can’t is your last contract, you are not a football player. champions, or taking a small town club like just defend and then kick the ball forward and Good football players will get paid. There’s a lot Skallagrímur to the top division? wait and hope for the best once you get it. I will of money involved, so I believe they should take That is a very interesting question and it’s difficult emphasise defence, but I want us to play a certain smaller steps. If they do well, they will be offered to answer because being a champion was a lot type of football when we have possession. I don’t bigger deals with bigger teams. more fun. That is the biggest accolade. But at the want players to be afraid of receiving the ball and time, when Skallagrímur went to the top division, playing football when we attack. Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson that was huge accomplishment. Nobody expected Are you thinking of making any changes in anything from that team and it was not filled with the group? “great football talent,” but there was great chem- Of course I’m keeping a close eye on a lot of play- istry in the group. It’s difficult to compare, but I ers. But I’m not looking at making many changes think I would have to say that becoming an Icelan- for the next game. I think Eyjólfur selected most dic champion stands closer to my heart. of our best players in our group. I don’t see my- From a coaching standpoint, I have a feeling self adding many new names for the game against that taking Skallagrímur to the top might be Denmark. But a new generation of good football more of an accomplishment. players is surfacing here in Iceland. Well, like I said, that team did not have the same What is a realistic goal on the football field level of football talent, but the players played with for Iceland? KSÍ [the Icelandic Football Asso- their hearts and, back then, nobody was receiving ciation] has stated that they expect the team a lot of money for playing football. It is true, that to qualify for the finals of a big tournament was a very big accomplishment. in the next 10-15 years. Is that realistic? You quit as coach of FH this spring, and it Look, it’s difficult to say that it’s realistic, but the Special offer

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Ten Little Who?

When you dig up the past, you are bound to see cans, commonly known as minstrels, used burnt about the racist history of the deplorable depic- some of the dirt. Unfortunately, this dirt is in the cork to mask their faces in black paint, coat their tions of those ten little black boys in the story. form of Icelandic artist Guðmundur Thorsteins- mouths with bright red lipstick and dance around son’s depiction of black people illustrated in the on stage impersonating what they perceived as, Do you honestly think that this book will do children’s book, ‘Tíu Litlir Negrastrákar,’ first pub- “the happy nigger.” It was their way of represent- more harm than good to children? lished in 1922. ing what all black people were and should be like First impressions make a monumental impact in Skrudda Ehf., an Icelandic publishing com- –lazy, shiftless and humorous baboons. When our minds as individuals. If a child sees these pany recently republished ‘Tíu Litlir Negrastrákar’ viewing Thorsteinsson’s illustrations for this book, particular images at a cognitive age, then yes, (translated as ‘Ten Little Black Boys’ or ‘Ten Little those same racist images came back ever so this book is doing more harm than good. As a Negro Boys’ depending on whom you’re asking) hauntingly. It doesn’t compare to hanging a noose child living in Iceland there are a limited number to an overabundance of mixed reviews. The story on my door as the racist incidents currently hap- of ways for children to learn about black people, is inspired by a song entitled “Ten Little Indians,” pening in New York City, but it hits another nerve so shouldn’t we make the few images that they do written by American musician Septimus Winner of bigotry that runs a little deeper. The images so see accurate and constructive? Why take them in 1868. The frenzy and controversy surrounding innocently framed in this book were specifically back to a time when black men and women were this republication has raised several issues regard- designed to dehumanize and mock black people disrespected and ignorantly stereotyped as buf- ing freedom of speech, race relations and cultural for over a hundred years. Why would anyone foons and demeaning punch lines? sensitivity. The beauty of controversy is that it want to recapture the ignorant and grotesque im- prompts discussion and provides an opportunity ages that have oppressed an entire race of people So what’s the solution? for understanding and discernment. However, we for so long for the sake of celebration? Did Thor- In my opinion all the books need to be recalled. have yet to hear from the voice of those actually steinsson produce any other material that did not According to Einar Skúlason, Director of the In- being depicted in the book… that is until now. include such racist ideologies? Why this specific tercultural Centre, after a public meeting about story? Was republishing this particular story so speaking freely, with a panel of professionals in- As an African American living in Iceland, important that it surpassed all judgment of racial cluding a specialist in Icelandic language, a Doctor how do you feel about the republication of awareness? of Anthropology and the President of the Society Tíu Litlir Negrastrákar? of Publishing, it was unanimously agreed that this Gabriele Guðbjartsson moved to Iceland from New This “children’s” book is yet another confirmation What would you say to parents who want to book was completely inappropriate to republish York,USA. She married a lucky local, and together they have one child. of how some people in Iceland refuse to believe purchase this book for their children? at this point in time. Although this book is a clas- that the world is changing and that the population If you plan on adding this book to your children’s sic and traditional story, the images portrayed in is evolving. It’s extremely disappointing that a library, I’m assuming that your children know of Dr. the book promote the wrong images for children. publishing company would go to so much trouble Martin Luther King Jr., George Washington Carver, Skúlason also added, “if a book was written 80 to revive an “old classic” and yet not thoroughly Rosa Parks, Miles Davis, Frederick Douglas, W.E.B. years ago about ten little [Icelandic] housewives, think about the consequences of their actions. Dubois, Harriet Tubman, Barbara Jordan and other each dying from ironing or cooking, there would Did they think about how Iceland would look to prominent black individuals. I’m assuming that be women marching in the street right now.” the rest of the world? When a book like this goes this isn’t the only depiction of black people that public, it doesn’t sit in a box. The rest of the world your children will come to know and understand I hear you loud and clear. is going to see this mistake and immediately form and that they have a myriad of other books to a lasting impression. choose from that represent black individuals in a positive and uplifting light. If you plan to read and What exactly offends you about the book? share this “old classic” with the kids at Christmas From the early 1800s to about 1910 white Ameri- time, I’m certain you’ve explained and taught them

One Little Nigger

“We never [were] niggers, that is a word used to chamber then all is well? To quote Shirley Q, if you contact with other cultures and people, so prob- describe our own wretchedness. And we perpetu- don’t see anything deplorable about these images lematic debates about art like Birth of A Nation ate it now.”(1) Who said that? Surprisingly to some, and words, “you sure is ignunt”. This leads into (which is a work of art, something Muggur’s illus- the little nigger in question was none other than the discussion regarding the book on what “we”, trations aren’t), Aunt Jemina and racist cartoons Richard Pryor. If he were alive today he might have i.e. Icelanders of less melanin, should call people like Sambo have not presented themselves. In something to say about the recent caricatures and of darker complexion. Obviously, that is one of the States Aunt Jemina lost her mammie appear- distasteful lyrics to the “nursery rhyme” Ten Little the problems. Strangely enough, there is always ance and ceased be a female version of “ “Uncle Niggers, which has recently been republished to this strange, overwhelming urge to define other Tom” […] a black woman who is perceived as be read by a new generation of Icelanders. Certain people as the Other. Of course I can help these obsequiously servile or acting in, or protective of, Icelanders are already complaining about those people with a few suggestions: Nigger, Black, the interests of whites.”(3) Even the Golliwog was voicing displeasure, in a rather morose manner, Coon, African American, Tar Baby, Spearchucker phased out in Britain. Because racism is a very whispering, “PC cops.” Because not wanting to or even Negro. In Icelandic, magically enough, slippery thing; while some might admit their bla- scar children’s self image and self worth is appar- Negro does not have any negative connotations tant racism, others feign ignorance or just say, “I ently akin to being politically correct, whereas because you can trace it back to Latin as niger. liked singing ten little niggers as a child.” Aspects the caricatures of Muggur, famous Icelandic art- At the same time there is a tendency to point out of racism permeate culture without some people ist, seem to be comparable to Velazquez, and are that an individual is black. For some in Iceland it even realizing it; how many people know “that it now being hailed as national treasures. is a simple matter of taking the word “negri” back can be argued that aspects of [black] stereotypes Just about everybody has an opinion on this and making it positive or, to paraphrase Randal were transferred to funny animals such as Krazy discussion, especially those who have no knowl- of Clerks fame, “Since when did “porch monkey” Kat, Felix, and later Mickey Mouse?”(4) edge of the matter or circumvent the main point, suddenly become a racial slur?” Still, one has to ask oneself: is a nursery including Iceland’s favourite pseudo intellectual, Nevertheless, some find it astonishing that rhyme about half-naked boys either being evis- Egill Helgason, who quotes the Index Liborum people don’t like being called negroes or niggers. cerated or multiplying like rabbits a valuable part Prohibitorum of Catholic religion and tries, with Just as Asians don’t like being called gooks; or Ital- of Icelandic culture because it is one of the first a sloppy sleight of hand, to connect the dots. I ians being called wops; or women being called translated children’s books with illustrations – or despise censorship and deem it inappropriate – skanks. I do not like being called a negro, being because relatives have a stake in the matter, per- Marvin Lee Dupree is born and raised in Iceland. He nonetheless there was no reason for publishing pointed out as different, and I doubt a preschooler haps royalties? Whatever the case may be, I tend studies literature and classics at the University of this book again. It is easily attainable and its whole would like it. Here in Iceland, I’ve heard almost to agree with Pryor: “I don’t like them hip white Iceland. discourse is based on racism. However, with that every tasteless joke or derogative comment you people coming up to me telling me nigger jokes, said, I would like to point out that both the Icelan- can think of, and said directly to me. Everything or calling me nigger, I don’t even like it when dic and English versions are a treasure trove for from “use Ajax”, “nigger”, “half-breed”, to hearing black people say it to me.” students of critical theory or literature. The Icelan- a very close relative agree with an old man on a dic version reinforces stereotypes whilst the latter television show called “Með Eiríki,” around 1995, 1. http://youtube.com/watch?v=AltWj4iAmno is just absurd and cruel, a grotesque vaudeville that “all negroes are lazy”. So, no, I am not hyper- 2. Strausbaugh 9:2006 Black Like You. Penguin Group feast. sensitive to the word negro, I just happen to know 3. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aunt_Jemima For some the pictures are considered cute, more about the subject and debate than the typi- 4. Strömberg 58:2003 Black Images In The Comics: A Visual History. despite the fact they are tainted by perverted cal over-worked and not as well-read Icelander. Fantagraphics Books (anti) “noble savage” imagery that recalls Ki- Despite all of this, there is another issue pling’s famous poem, The White Man’s Burden. concerning this debate: Is racial caricature ac- For example, journalist Kolbrún Bergþórsdóttir ceptable? I tend to agree with Shirley Q when she (of the newspaper 24 Stundir) says, “I am sur- states “I am a firm believer that comedy is a way prised at people saying the book is racist ... some to heal past injustices, prejudice and hate.”(2) She [negroes] have tragic mishaps, but like in chil- fights racism by invoking blackface, which in itself dren’s books: all goes well. That only leaves the is a genre predating the silly afros you see people word “negro”, which isn’t a fun word – but it isn’t wear pretending to lay claim to this unworldly oth- negative in the book.” So, by that logic if the book erness. The problem, I feel, is that Icelanders have were “Ten Little Kikes” and one survives the gas always been isolated and only recently come into Listasafn Reykjavíkur Reykjavik Art Museum

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The process of applying for citizenship to the Icelan- dic Parliament is relatively simple. Photo by GAS

You Too Can be a Citizen

At the Grapevine’s request, the Icelandic Ministry Article 6 applications are received. It did not in practice. I can sympathize with Bjartmarz’s What is a good enough of Justice has explained the procedure for apply- mention how long the subsequent parts of the willingness to help her son’s girlfriend apply for ing to receive fast-track Icelandic citizenship by process normally take. citizenship. But it would be a more noble use of reason for wanting Ice- act of Parliament. a parliamentarian’s time to work towards making There are two ways of applying for Icelandic Can I Be Approved? the same information available to everyone. landic citizenship “be- citizenship. The normal way, used by several hun- What is a good enough reason for wanting Icelan- dred people every year, is outlined in Article 5 of dic citizenship “before fulfilling the regular condi- The Underlying Problems fore fulfilling the regular law 100/1952. Decisions are made by the Ministry tions?” The short answer is that it’s all up to the Unfortunately, Bjartmarz seems not to be alone of Justice. The express route, used by a few dozen General Committee. among parliamentarians in having spent more conditions?” The short people per year, is based on Article 6 of the same In the spring of 2006, a young woman from time promoting particular individuals’ applica- law. Here the decision is made by Alþingi (the Ice- Guatemala who is the girlfriend of the son of Jóní- tions under Article 6, than in making an effort to answer is that it’s all up to landic Parliament). More specifically, applications na Bjartmarz, then Minister of the Environment, make information about how the process works are approved or rejected by parliament’s General received citizenship by act of Parliament under available to all. On his blog site on July 16th, Min- the General Committee. Committee twice a year, and then the decision is Article 6. The case caused a flurry of media at- ister of Industry Össur Skarphéðinsson discussed confirmed by the entire parliament. tention, particularly because the young woman the case of a three-year-old Salvadoran girl living The website of Iceland’s Ministry of Justice had lived in Iceland for only a year and a half, and in the West Fjords to whom he thinks Parliament explains the procedures for applying under Ar- did not appear to have an unusually strong need should grant citizenship under Article 6. It is tell- ticle 5. But Iceland’s government gives no public for Icelandic citizenship. (See Issue 9 for a full re- ing that Skarphéðinsson presents the case as one information on how to apply under Article 6. port.) in which the little girl would need his interven- Up to now, the nature of the Article 6 ap- This case suggests three hypotheses. One tion in Parliament to tip the balance in her favour, plication procedure has been in effect a closely is that the barrier for Article 6 applications is set rather than one in which an honestly submitted guarded secret. No one who is not already “in the quite low and that anyone who just asks nicely application on her behalf would be expected to loop” has really known who qualifies to apply un- and has a halfway decent story -- more or less -- succeed. der Article 6 and such how an application can be can receive citizenship by act of Parliament. An- Another noteworthy case is that of a foreign initiated. other is that the barrier is somewhat higher, and scholar whose association with Björn Bjarnason that Jónína’s son’s girlfriend would, practically is documented in Bjarnason’s online diary, among How to Apply? speaking, never have been approved without other sources. Bjarnason became Minister of Jus- According to the Ministry’s letter to Grapevine, Jónína’s influence -- despite the repeated denials tice in 2003, and the scholar received Icelandic applicants who wish their applications to be con- that there was any influence. A third hypothesis is citizenship under Article 6 in 2004. One cannot sidered by Parliament under Article 6 should still that it doesn’t make much sense to ask how high help but wonder whether the idea for the scholar file the regular Article 5 application form with the barrier is, we should not read too much prec- to apply for citizenship came up in conversation the Ministry of Justice (not with Parliament). edent-setting value into any one case, and that with Bjarnason. The scholar did not respond to This application is on the Ministry of Justice’s there isn’t really any established policy on who to requests for comment. website. All the normal supporting documents, approve and who not. Underlying the controversy surrounding Ar- such as recommendations, should be included, From 2004 through mid-2007, Parliament ticle 6 applications is that it has gotten much hard- and the 10,000 ISK application fee presumably received 225 Article 6 applications and approved er to receive citizenship under Article 5, and also must be paid. In addition, according to the min- 124 of them, or 55%. I would not be surprised if for non-Europeans to receive Icelandic residence istry: the number of applications increases in the wake permits and work permits. Speeding tickets can “A letter must be included with the appli- of the young woman from Guatemala’s success. It delay your eligibility for citizenship, marrying too cation requesting that the application be sent will be fascinating to see what happens to the ap- young can jeopardize a residence permit applica- to Parliament for consideration. The letter must proval rate. tion, and dealing with the Directorate of Immigra- explain in detail the reason why the applicant tion has become more bureaucratic. Quick-fix considers himself or herself in need of Icelandic The Key Issue in the Jónína Bjartmarz Case citizenship under Article 6 thus starts to become citizenship before fulfilling the regular condi- I have not seen any indication that Jónína Bjart- more and more attractive to people who want to tions. After receiving the comments of the police marz did anything illegal in connection with her ensure their security here on the island. and the Directorate of Immigration, as required son’s girlfriend’s citizenship application, but an It is no secret that there are many problems by law, the ministry forwards the application to injustice did take place. Her son’s girlfriend took with both the terms and the administration of Parliament.” advantage of information that was effectively priv- Iceland’s citizenship and immigration laws. Many As far as I know, this is the first public in- ileged – even if not formally privileged – to receive people are lobbying for change. In the meantime, formation that any governmental body has given an important right from the Icelandic government. I hope that clear information about the Article 6 about how the Article 6 process works. It is dis- At the same time, many others with perhaps a process will put an end to the era in which the appointing that this same information has not more pressing need for that right were effectively facilitation of Icelandic citizenship has been a been added to the Ministry of Justice website’s unable to ask for it, because they had no way of privilege in the hands of the few who know how page about applying for citizenship. That’s where knowing that they could. As Jónína recognized in the system works. it belongs. an interview in the July 5 issue of Mannlíf, The ministry’s letter did not suggest any “... one can say that she had the right to try Text by Ian Watson deadlines for Article 6 applications, but the par- applying just like anyone else. However, she bene- liamentary vote on them normally takes place fited, or perhaps in the last analysis suffered, from twice a year, in May and December. In a press the fact that I knew how things work and advised release on May 3, the ministry said that it nor- her on how she could give it a try.” mally requests comments from the police and “Just like anyone else” is the key issue. Actu- the Directorate of Immigration the same day that ally, not everyone else was able to “give it a try” Ad Grapevine 245x195 (EE) 20/09/07 17:44 Page 1

I’M SENDING MY SUPPORT © 2007 WESTERN UNION HOLDINGS, INC. All rights reserved.

Fast, reliable, worldwide money transfer. � 410 4000 landsbanki.is 12 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Feature

The financial sector has lobbied for better English teaching to ease the transition to the global economy. Is the Icelandic language weighing us down? Photo by GAS

Big Business vs. Icelandic

Last month, the board of Reykjavík Energy, a pub- advice and deal with foreign parties regarding in- merce, Sigurðsson, points out, “it could possibly Admittedly, English is the licly owned company that supplies Reykjavík citi- vestment opportunities? entice foreign investors to come here, either in the zens with energy, accepted a merger between the A conversation with the Minister of Com- financial sector or in commerce in general, due to most commonly spoken privately owned Geysir Green Energy and Reyk- merce, Björgvin G Sigurðsson of the Social Demo- the fact that we live in a monopolist society and we javík Energy Invest, a company owned by Reyk- cratic Party, helped clear up some of the obfus- have overpriced commodities and service. We are second language, but Ger- javík Energy; and the subsequent sale of Reykjavík cated discussion surrounding the matter. It is most certainly not implying that Icelandic should Energy Invest to private investors. As a part of the difficult to disagree with the Minster’s statement step down and lose its place, which is a preposter- man and French are not agreement to sell Reykjavík Energy Invest, the about an administration that would “ensure that ous distortion of our ideas.” Nonetheless, isn’t it board of Reykjavík Energy signed off on an agree- information is accessible to foreigners as most more reasonable for us to speak a myriad of lan- unworthy alternatives, ment that guarantees Reykjavík Energy Invest government institutions already have information guages, or at least not to focus solely on English, exclusive rights to technical expertise in the field in English.” It is in the government’s own interest. as not all foreign investors are English speakers? each boasting around 63 of geothermal research, as well as planning and Legislation in a foreign language, however, is an- Isn’t it more plausible that the business “ethics” marketing on behalf of Reykjavík Energy, for the other affair altogether. that are practiced in the global and domestic mar- million people who speak next 20 years. The contract was submitted to the Even though there are fundamental prob- ket have nothing to do with the language itself? board at the meeting, but only in English. Accord- lems to be considered when discussing the use Greed is a more internationally recognized lan- them as second languages. ing to reports, it seems that some board members of English versus Icelandic in the business world, guage than English. didn’t fully understand the implications of the both Sigurðsson and Ágústsson elucidate serious contract. pros of a “bilingual” public administration: a more So is Big Business Really Looking Out for Ice- Now the question emerges: why does a transparent market and, perhaps, a fairer business landic? group of Icelanders meet to carve up and merge environment bringing competition from abroad. In fact, it seems rather odd that English, above all companies whilst speaking Icelandic; yet simul- On the other hand, there are still obviously a other languages, should be considered the lingua taneously discussing a contract written in a lan- few hurdles to overcome. The cost, for example, franca and automatically receive a guaranteed guage in which they possess intermediate skills would be enormous, as Katrín Jakobsdóttir, VC of place here as a second language. Glancing at the at best? This question brings to light the tension the Left Green Party, implies. homepage of the National Statistical Institute of between big business and the Icelandic language Another problem she explained is the man- Iceland it becomes apparent that this argument itself. ner in which these changes will be implemented, might be seriously flawed given that almost five a factor that should be addressed. Will the private thousand immigrants, as of 2005, do not have The Beginning of the End market actually hire English and Icelandic ex- English as a native language, not including resi- Last September, Ágúst Ólafur Ágústsson, VC of the perts? Does an MBA automatically eclipse, say, an dents of Nordic countries. This includes people Social Democratic Party, wrote a controversial ar- MA or BA in linguistics, Icelandic or English? And from, e.g., Poland, the Philippines and Germany. ticle in the daily newspaper Morgunblaðið where will the task of translating the aforementioned le- However, Eastern Asian speakers are clearly at a he proposed a bilingual administration. He soon gal and administrative documents be handed over disadvantage when it comes to English. There are revised his idea in a blog post and called for a gov- to novices? In fact, that would be a mute point and linguistic reasons for this, something which par- ernmental administration in two languages. His will be touched upon below in relation to Iceland- amours of English ignore. articles provoked a serious row over the predica- ers’ proficiency in English. Also related to this discussion is whether ment faced by Iceland and its language: Should Furthermore, if the Financial Supervisory or not Iceland ought to join the European Union. Icelandic give way to its bigger cousin English? Authority and the Competition Authority were “to The Minister of Commerce, Sigurðsson, like many According to Ágústsson, the global village’s ensure the trust of foreign investors in Icelandic members of the Social Democrat Party, considers ignorance of Iceland, presumably due to the “lan- business” and “be able to answer all queries in the EU a step forward. Despite that, he does not guage barrier”, is preventing foreign companies English, both quickly and well, and publish its believe we should consider focusing on languag- from coming over here to invest. However, this results accordingly” as Ágústsson writes online in es such as French, German or Polish as viable pos- statement lacks a certain substance when held his explanation, it would call for a total overhaul sibilities instead of English. He referred to the ple- up to scrutiny. Hitherto, “an obscure language” of what is often referred to as “the business envi- thoric influence of English: everything from films, has not stopped companies from investing here: ronment” in Iceland. news, the Internet and all forms of entertainment. Alcan (soon to be Rio Tinto), Alcoa and so forth. To be fair, Ágústsson stresses that Icelan- While nobody will dispute that fact, the European The list might not be flattering but the companies dic should still be our official administrative lan- Commission states that there are over 450 million are still international. The buck, quite simply, does guage, but he states that “it does not matter if we citizen within the EU and it specifies among its not stop with a stuffy Viking language. translate a few documents into English” as this main goals for all common members “The long Likewise, the global expansion of Icelan- will have little bearing on Icelandic. But many, term objective for all EU citizens to speak two lan- dic companies abroad, in Britain, Denmark and including myself, are very unclear about what he guages in addition to their own mother tongue.” now Indonesia, has hardly gone unnoticed. Why, really means. What are a few documents? Admittedly, English is the most commonly then, should the Icelandic government take up a An argument for taking up English to a spoken second language, but German and French second administrative language, when there are greater extent is that it may demolish monopolist are not unworthy alternatives, each boasting companies here in Iceland that already dole out companies and practices. As the Minister of Com- around 63 million people who speak them as sec- Info | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 info. Music, Art, Films and Events Listings · Eating, Drinking and Shopping · Map plus Get Ready for Winter · FM Belfast Interview

Photos by GAS above MOMS dress-rehearsal for the big time (B14) B2 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Listings

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Music Funk Night with Jagúar

Jagúar, the uncrowned kings of Icelan- 1998, Jagúar has won numerous Icelan- bring the crowd into a funky groove on dic funk, recently released their fourth dic Music Awards, played established the dancefloor not to be missed. The album, ‘Shake it Good’. The band’s six Jazz venues abroad and opened up for party starts at 24:00. Tickets cost 1,500 members, all respectable figures in the their idol James Brown. ISK and can be bought at www.midi.is. local music scene, tend to celebrate Fronted by hyperactive singer and properly this Friday, November 2, with trombone player Samúel J. Samúels- November 2 a grand concert at NASA. Formed in son, Jagúar’s vibrant live shows usually NASA, by Austurvöllur

If you would like to be included in Sat 03.11 Halloween: DJ Gísli Galdur Mon 04.11 The Motet Choir of the Grapevine listings, free of charge, and President Bongo Hallgrímskirkja Church will perform contact the Grapevine by email at Wed 07.11 DJ Buzby two requiems. Starts at 17:00 [email protected]. Fri 09.11 DJ Nuno and friends (1 floor) Háskólabíó / DJ Áki Pein (2 floor) At Hagatorg Sat 10.11 DJ Jack Schidt (1 floor) / DJ Fri 02.11 The Icelandic Symphony Rósa (2 floor) Orchestra: Brahms – Beethoven II Music Fri 16.11 Plötusnúður Ríkisins (1 floor) Fri 09.11 The Icelandic Symphony / DJ Símon (2 floor) Orchestra: Film concert Sat 17.11 DJ Manny (1 floor) / DJ Peter Sun 11.11 The Icelandic Symphony 12 Tónar Record Shop Parker (2 floor) Orchestra: Film concert Skólavörðustígur 15 Thu 22.11 DJ’s Eyþór and Buzby Fri 16.11 The Icelandic Symphony Fri 23.11 Concert: Davíð Þór Jónsson. Fri 23.11 Thanks for giving us Hiphop Orchestra: Mozart in Salzburg Broadcasted live on radio show Sat 24.11 DJ Rósa (1 floor) / DJ Panic Fri 23.11 The Icelandic Symphony Hlaupanótan on RUV (2 floor) Orchestra: Opera concert Fri 07.12 Concert: Kippi Kanínus. Fri 30.11 DJ’s Beauty and the Beats (1 Fri 30.11 The Icelandic Symphony Broadcasted live on radio show floor) / DJ Ernir (2 floor) Orchestra: Don Juan and Don Giovanni Hlaupanótan on RUV Broadway Fri 07.12 The Icelandic Symphony Austurbær Ármúli 9 Orchestra: Gala concert Snorrabraut 37 Fri 09.11 Techno.is presents: DJ Tiesto Hellirinn (TÞM) Fri 02.11 Young Art Festival: Concert from Amsterdam with Exos and DJ Hólmaslóð 2 with Shogun, Gordon Riots, < 3 Eyvi. Starts at 23:00 Sat 03.11 All ages concert: The Psyke Svanhvít, Narfur, We Made God and Café Hljómalind Project (DK). Opening acts: Changer, I Retro Stefson. Starts at 20:00 Laugavegur 21 Adapt and Celestine. Starts at 20:00 Café Amsterdam Fri 02.11 Concert: Birds By Snow Sat 10.11 Black Metal Night: Atrum, Hafnarstræti 5 (USA). Opening acts: Rökkurró and Carpe Noctem, Dysthymia and Fri 02.11 Video-DJ Fúsi Ási. Starts at 20:00 Yggdrasil. Starts at 20:00 Sat 03.11 Video-DJ Fúsi Café Paris Hressó Thu 08.11 Concert: Silent River, Austurstræti 14 Austurstræti 20 Hostile and Ten Steps Away. Starts at Every Friday and Saturday night DJ Fri 02.11 Troubadour Tryggvi 22:00 Börkur and DJ Lucky play soul and funk Vilmundar / DJ Maggi. Fri 09.11 Concert: Talindrome + Domo Sat 03.11 Troubadours Alexander & guests. Starts at 23:00 / DJ Sesar Þingholtsstæti 5 Örvar / DJ Töframaðurinn Sat 10.11 DJ Sesar Wed 07.11 JJ Soul Band Fri 09.11 Troubadours Gotti & Eisi / DJ Fri 16.11 DJ Master Wed 14.11 Ásgeir Ásgeirsson’s Maggi Sat 17.11 Rock concert: TBA. Stats at Quartet. The concert is dedicated to Sat 10.11 Troubadours Alexander & 23:00 / DJ Master saxophonist Dexter Gordon Örvar / DJ Maggi Fri 23.11 DJ Sesar Wed 21.11 Latinodans: Songs from Fri 16.11 Jazzband Tepokinn / DJ Sat 24.11 DJ Sesar Tómas R. Einarsson’s Latin-jazz albums Töframaðurinn Bar 11 Wed 28.11 Jazz concert: Ragnheiður Sat 17.11 Pub-lic / DJ Töframaðurinn Laugavegur 11 Gröndal + band Wed 21.11 Hressó’s Beerfestival: Fri 02.11 DJ Benni Wed 05.12 Agnar Már Magnússon’s Sprengjuhöllin concert Sat 03.11 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons Trio Thu 22.11 Hressó’s Beerfestival: Fri 09.11 DJ Gulli Ósóma Gaukurinn Dalton concert Sat 10.11 DJ Gulli Ósóma Tryggvagata 22 Fri 23.11 Hressó’s Beerfestival: Menn Fri 16.11 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons Fri 02.11 Concert: Sign, Cliff Clavin, ársins concert Sat 17.11 DJ Gulli Ósóma Nilfisk, Hellvar, Coral, Vicky Pollard Sat 24.11 Hressó’s Beerfestival: Fri 23.11 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons and Johnny & the Rest. Starts at 21:00 Troubadours Alexander & Örvar / DJ Sat 24.11 DJ Gulli Ósóma Grand Rokk Maggi Fri 30.11 DJ Benni Smiðjustígur 6 Sun 25.11 Troubadour Tryggvi Sat 01.12 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons Sat 03.11 Concert: Gæðablóð. Starts Vilmundar Fri 07.12 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons at 21:00 Íslenska Óperan Sat 08.12 DJ Gulli Ósóma Sat 17.11 Concert: Ljótu hálfvitarnir. Ingólfsstræti 2a LLL#C:#>H Barinn Starts at 22:00 Thu 08.11 Concert: Pop-band Laugavegur 22 Sat 24.11 Concert: TBA Land og synir celebrates 10 year CZlh$$8jaijgZ$$9^c^c\$$IgVkZaa^c\$$H]dee^c\$$6gi^XaZh$$>ciZgk^Zlh Fri 02.11 Beauty and the Beats with Hallgrímskirkja Church anniversary. Special guests include Seth Sharp (1 floor) / DJ Panic At Skólavörðuholt Andrea Gylfadóttir, Magni Ásgeirsson, Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | B3

Þjóðleikhúsið The National Theatre of Iceland

Don't forget the student discount See and hear more on our website, www.leikhusid.is

Metamorphosis by Franz Kafka in cooperation with Vesturport

"A striking and interesting performance." Elísabet Brekkan, Fréttablaðið Last performance 1. December

Music Indiepop at Organ

On Wednesday, November 7, the cheer- and funny lyrics, the band released the Dýrðin and punk-rockers in Æla. ful Norwegian indiepop group Profes- third album, ‘Hordaland’, earlier this The concerts start at 21:00 and sor Pez will throw their first concert year. Professor Pez is now preparing admission fee is 1,000 ISK. Tickets at in Iceland at bar Organ. The group for a tour to the US where they are for www.midi.is. was founded in 2001 and after playing example scheduled to play the indie bunch of birthday parties and small festival Popfest! in Massachussetts but November 7 venues, released its first album, ‘Let before flying off they’ll make a quick Organ, Hafnarstræti 1-3 Uterus Us Follow the Evil Balloon’ in 2004. Re- stopover in Reykjavík. Opening acts a musical by the notorious nowned for its live shows, playful tunes of the night are local indiepop band Hugleikur Dagsson and the trio Flís

Bergsveinn Arilíusson, Reykjavik’s Fri 02.11 DJ Night - Barcode vs. Thu 22.11 DJ surprise Don't miss a crash course in Gospel Choir, Samúel J. Samúelsson Groovebox: Asli / Trix / Mr. Cuellar / Fri 23.11 DJ Pétur Icelandic black humor! and many more. Tickets at www.midi. Óli Ofur / Mr. Shaft / Ingvi / Beatur Sat 24.11 DJ Lazer is Sat 03.11 Party organized by Samtökin Wed 28.11 DJ of the house Last performances in November Kaffibarinn 78 (The National Organization of Thu 29.11 Surprise DJ Bergstaðastræti 1 Lesbians and Gay Men) Fri 30.11 DJ Árni Sveins Fri 02.11 DJ Lazer Tue 06.11 Rökkurró release concert Vodafonehöllin Sat 03.11 DJ Casanova Wed 07.11 Concert: Professor Pez At Hlíðarendi Wed 07.11 DJ Óli Dóri (NO), Æla and Dýrðin. Tickets at Sat 24.11 Concert: Kim Larsen & Thu 08.11 TBA www.midi.is Kjukken (DK). Tickets at www.midi.is Fri 09.11 DJ Jack Schidt Thu 08.11 Monitor’s concert series Sat 10.11 DJ Maggi Legó Fri 09.11 Reykjavík FM presents: Jack Thu 15.11 DJ Chuck Live concert Fri 16.11 TBA Thu 15.11 Bloodgroup release concert Art Sat 17.11 DJ Nuno Lx Fri 16.11 Breakbeat.is presents: Noisia Laugardalshöll (NL) Engjavegur 8 Sat 17.11 Kronik Classic Night with DJ 101 Gallery Sat 08.12 Björgvin Halldórsson’s Evil Dee. Old-school hiphop classics Hverfisgata 18 Christmas Concert. Special guests from the 90s. Also performing: O.N.E, Thu.–Sat. 14–17 and by appointment include Bjarni Arason, Eyjólfur 1985!, FL Crew, DJ B-Ruff, DJ Rampage www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Kristjánsson, Friðrik Ómar, Helgi and DJ Fingerprint. Starts at 23:00 Oct 10 – Nov 24 Björnsson, Ragnar Bjarnason, Stefán Wed 21.11 Concert: Rhondda & the Vélakostur / Machinery Hilmarsson, Svala Björgvinsdóttir and Runestones and Retron Sara Riel exhibition. Sigga Beinteins. Tickets at www.midi.is Thu 22.11 Monitor’s concert series Artótek Nasa Thu 06.12 Monitor’s concert series Tryggvagata 15 by Austurvöllur Fri 07.12 Concert: Akron/Family (US). Mon. 10–21, Tue.–Thu. 10–19, Fri. Fri 02.11 Concert: Funk-band Jagúar. Opening act: Hjaltalín. Tickets at www. 11–19, Sat. and Sun. 13–17 Starts at 23:00 . Tickets at www.midi.is midi.is www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Sat 03.11 Concert: Ný Dönsk. Starts at Prikið Oct 19 – Nov 18 23:00. Tickets at www.midi.is Bankastræti 12 The work of Guðbjörg Lind Jónsdóttir Fri 09.11 Concert: Stríð og Friður Fri 02.11 Troubadours Pub-lic / DJ Ernir ASÍ Art Museum with Bubbi Morthens. Starts at 23:00. Sat 03.11 DJ Anna Brá Freyjugata 41 Tickets at www.midi.is Thu 08.11 DJ Maggi Legó Tue.–Sun. 13–17 Sat 10.11 Concert: Stríð og Friður Fri 09.11 Franz and Kristó / DJ Rósa Free Entrance with Bubbi Morthens. Starts at 23:00. Sat 10.11 DJ Benni B-Ruff Oct 27 – Nov 19 Tickets at www.midi.is Thu 15.11 DJ Anna Brá Gust Sun 11.11 Mugison release concert Fri 16.11 DJ Gunni Stef The works of Sari Marit Cedergren Fri 16.11 The Reykjavík Grapevine Sat 17.11 DJ Kvikindi Auga fyrir Auga presents: Sprengjuhöllin, Motion Boys, Thu 22.11 DJ Maggi Legó Hverfisgata 35 Jeff Who? and DJ Terrordisco. Tickets Fri 23.11 DJ Rósa Open Thu.–Fri. 15–19, Sat.–Sun. 14–17 at www.midi.is Sat 24.11 DJ Danni Deluxe Current exhibition: Sat 17.11 Páll Óskar release party. Thu 29.11 DJ Anna Brá Red Square Starts at 23:00 Fri 30.11 DJ Gísli Galdur Photographs from Calcutta by Fri 23.11 Concert: TBA Sat 01.12 DJ Danni Deluxe Christopher Taylor Sat 24.11 Concert: TBA Sirkus Café Mokka Fri 30.11 Flex Night. Starts at 24:00 Klapparstígur 30 Skólavörðustígur 3a Sat 01.12 Concert: Skid Row (US). Fri 02.11 DJ’s TaTaTa Open daily from 9-18:30 Opening act: Sign. Starts at 20:00. Sat 03.11 DJ Tommi White Current exhibition: Tickets at www.midi.is Wed 07.11 DJ Anton Newcomb Ukrainian Reality The Nordic House Thu 08.11 DJ Bigital Pétur Geir Óskarsson’s photography Sturlugata 5 Fri 09.11 DJ Casanova exhibition features black and white Sun 04.11 Young Art Festival: Students Sat 10.11 DJ Gísli Galdur photos from the Ukrainian coal mining from music schools in Reykjavík play Wed 14.11 Surprise DJ city Krasnyi Luch. music from different periods in music Thu 15.11 DJ surprise The Einar Jónsson Museum history. Free admission. Starts at 20:00 Fri 16.11 DJ Nuno Lx Eiríksgata Organ Sat 17.11 DJ Maggi Legó Tue.–Sun. 14–17 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Wed 21.11 DJ of the house www.skulptur.is B4 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Listings

Upcoming concerts

now listen! FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2ND @ 9 PM a concert/party Conductor ::: Rumon Gamba for young people Igor Stravinsky ::: Rite of spring gypsies and THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 15TH @ 7:30 PM beauties Conductor ::: Kurt Kopecky Soloist ::: Edda Erlendsdóttir Joseph Haydn ::: Piano Concerto D-major Robert Schumann ::: Symphony nr. 4 Tryggvi M. Baldvinsson ::: The maiden in the tower (World premiere) peer gynt THURSDAY NOVEMBER 22ND @ 7:30 PM Conductor ::: Petri Sakari Soloist ::: Guðrún Jóhanna Ólafsdóttir Narrator ::: Gunnar Eyjólfsson Edvard Grieg ::: Peer Gynt - Selection Modest Mussorgsky ::: Night on a Bald Mountain Richard Strauss ::: Till Eulenspiegel adès - stravinsky THURSDAY NOVEMBER 29TH @ 7:30 PM Conductor ::: Thomas Adès Soloist ::: Carolin Widmann Choir ::: The Hamrahlid Choirs Choirmaster ::: Þorgerður Ingólfsdóttir Igor Stravinsky ::: A Symphony of Psalms Igor Stravinsky ::: Scherzo fantastique Music Thomas Adès ::: Asyla Thomas Adès ::: Concentric Paths Mugison’s Release Concert

tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is The beloved folk-rock animal Mugi- To celebrate the release, Mugison day, November 11, Mugison, along with or tel. 545 2500 son released his third solo album last will tour the countryside this month, his magnificent band, will finally throw All concerts take place in Háskólabíó. week, the first one in three years. His starting with a concert in his home- a release party at NASA. Prepare for a over-excited fans have waited with ex- town of Ísafjörður on November 6. mind-blowing event. For more info see: fl group is the main sponsor of the iceland symphony orchestra treme excitement for the new release, Town Akureyri (Nov 6), the Westmann www.nasa.is. WWW.SINFONIA.IS and the album, entitled ‘Mugiboogie’, is Islands (Nov 9) and Hafnarfjörður (Nov awesome! (See a review on page 19 in 10) will follow before Reykjavíkians get November 11 the Grapevine) to partake in the celebration. On Sun- NASA, by Austurvöllur. “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ Permanent exhibition: Paintings by Álfheiður Ólafsdóttir Nov 2 Don’t miss it! The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson Gallery Ágúst Young Art Festival: Fine Art marathon The Culture House Baldursgata 12 starts. Hverfisgata 15 Wed.–Sat. 12–17 Nov 5 Open daily 11–17 www.galleriagust.is Man is Man’s Pleasure www.thjodmenning.is Sep 29–Nov 10 Young Art Festival: An evening of arts Permanent exhibitions: The Neutral: In Motion with students from Fjölbrautaskólinn Medieval Manuscripts; The National Hulda Stefánsdóttir exhibition in Ármúli. Starts at 20:00 Museum – as it was; The Library Gallery Fold Nov 6 Room; The Road to Zion; Berlin Rauðarárstígur 14–16 Art or Fart? Excursion Mon.–Fri. 10–18 Symposium about young people and Current exhibitions: Sat. 11–16 art, the Young Art Festival and Creative –Surtsey – Genesis Sun. 14–16 Summer Jobs. Starts at 20:00 The exhibition traces the emergence www.myndlist.is Nov 5 – Nov 18 Viking feasts every night and evolution of the island Surtsey Oct 27 – Nov 11 Exhibition from the Fine Art Marathon until the present day and predicts Paintings by Bragi Ásgeirsson Nov 2 – Nov 11 - live entertainment its geographical and ecological Gallery Gel Students in Fjölbrautarskólinn in For booking and further information: development over the next 120 years. Hverfisgata 37 Ármúli exhibit their work Tel.: +354 565-1213 –The Nation and Nature Mon.–Fri. 13–18 i8 Gallery www.vikingvillage.is A nature film by filmmaker Páll Sat. 11–16 Klapparstígur 33 [email protected] Steingrímsson Sun. 14–16 Tue.–Fri. 11–17 Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur Dwarf Gallery www.myspace.com/gallerigel Sat. 13–17 and by appointment Grundarstígur 21 Current exhibition: www.i8.is Opening Hours: Fri. and Sat. 18–20 Ingó (from Indigo) exhibits some work Nov 8 – Dec 15 Attention Electrical Workers! www.this.is/birta Gallery Turpentine Installations by Ragna Róbertsdóttir Oct 12–Oct 21 Ingólfsstræti 5 Living Art Museum Basic pay Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Tue.–Fri. 12–18 Laugavegur 26 Auxpan and Sara Björnsdóttir For unskilled workers: Sat. 11–16 Wed., Fri.–Sun. 13–17 No less then 153.409 Ikr pr. Month – 885 Ikr. pr. hour in daytime, Fotografí www.turpentine.is Thu. 13–22 1.521 Ikr. pr. hour in overtime. Skólavörðustígur 4a Current exhibition: www.nylo.is/ www.fotografi.is Paintings by Sigurður Árni Sigurðsson Oct 6–Nov 4 For skilled worker: Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Guð / God No less then 194.805 Ikr pr. Month. – 1.124 Ikr. pr hour in Nov 3 – Dec 3 daytime, 1.946 Ikr pr. hour in overtime. Uno / One Gerðuberg 3–5 Ragnar Kjartansson’s solo exhibition Karl R. Lilliendahl’s photographic Mon.–Thu. 11–17 Nov 24 – Dec 23 Market wages exhibition features black and Wed. 11–21 Olga Bergmann and Valgerður Unskilled Electrical worker: white photos from Italy. The title of Thu.–Fri. 11–17 Guðlaugsdóttir exhibition 1.000 – 1.200 Ikr. pr. hour for in daytime, 1.800 – 2.000 Ikr pr. the exhibition, ‘Uno’ refers to the Sat.–Sun. 13–16 The Lost Horse Gallery hour in overtime. individual in the urban community, as www.gerduberg.is Skólastræti 1 Skilled Electrical worker: seen by the photographer. Sep 22–Nov 11 www.this.is/subaqua/losthorse.html 1.450 – 1.700 Ikr. pr. hour for in daytime, 2.100 – 2.500 Ikr pr. Gallery 100º Paintings by Guðmunda S. Nov 17–29 hour in overtime. Bæjarháls 1 Gunnarsdóttir Man of Constant Sorrow Oct 20 – Jan 15 2008 Sep 22–Nov 11 Hafsteinn Michael solo exhibition. Ink For more information, Contact Cube Design and the Handicraft Tradition drawings on paper and larger work on Rafiðnaðarsamband Íslands Project of media artists Holger Mader Works by 34 designers, artists and panel Stórhöfða 31 - 112 Reykjavík and Alexander Stublic and architect craftsmen Dec 1–17 Tel. 580 5200 Fax 580 5220 Heike Wiermann Nov 17 – Jan 13 2008 Marguerite Keyes and Scott Alario. [email protected] Gallery Art-Iceland Painting by Toggi Stories told through sculptural www.rafis.is Skólavörðustígur 1a Hitt Húsið reliquaries Oct 20 – Nov 3 Pósthússtræti 3-5 The National Film Archive of Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | B5

Art Smátími: New Artist-run Basement Gallery

Local artists and art lovers have proved 20 artist friends of his have invaded the end of the three months. that unused downtown buildings pend- the space and will open a new gallery The opening exhibition, titled ‘Re- 9Vc^ZaGV\cVg ing demolition can easily be put to on November 9. The project is named construction: What the hell happened? creative use with a little help from the Smátími and the basement will be an √M Jafna gegnur upp’ is a collabora- A^kZZkZgnIjZhYVn[gdb'&/%% imagination. New and raw galleries ongoing creative venue for the next tion between artists Páll and Steinunn lll#XV[Zda^kZg#^h pop up, up-and-coming artists get more three months. The plan is to present Gunnlaugsdóttir and features installa- opportunities to display their work and new works by young artists each week tions as well as performances. The cel- the public gets a chance to view uncon- and have a grand opening party every ebration starts at 19:00. ventional exhibitions. The basement at Friday. Each exhibition will be on dis- Café Hljómalind is now experiencing play for six to seven days and a book Smátími, Laugavegur 21 such a makeover as Páll Björnsson and about the project will be published at

Iceland Oct 27 – Nov 25 and lightness of touch. Hvaleyrarbraut 13 Mementi Nov 8 – Dec 31 www.kvikmyndasafn.is Photographs by Ove Aalo Touching the Membrane 10 ZASAD GŁÓWNYCH The National Film Archive of Iceland The Numismatic Museum Margrét H. Blöndal exhibition. screens old movie classics and Kalkofnsvegur 1 Aug 31–Dec31 1. Myśl pozytywnie, będzie ci lżej masterpieces twice a week for 500 ISK Open Mon.–Fri. 13:30–15:30. The Erró Collection 2. Dbaj o to, co jest ci drogie per ticket. Free admittance. Paintings by Erró 3. Ucz się jak najdłużej, nawet do końca swojego Nov 3 Permanent exhibition: Nov 2 – Jan 6 2008 życia Johan Jacobsen’s ‘En Fremmed Banker The Central Bank of Iceland and the D Gallery På’ National Museum of Iceland jointly Karlotta Blöndal exhibition 4. Ucz się na własnych błędach Nov 6 and Nov 10 operate a numismatic collection Reykjavík Art Museum 5. Ruszaj się jak najwięcej, to podnosi na duchu Ingmar Bergman’s ‘The Serpents Egg’ consisting of Icelandic notes and – Kjarvalsstaðir 6. Nie zaprzątaj sobie głowy niepotrzebnymi Nov 13 and Nov 17 coins. Flókagata sprawami Charlie Chaplin’s ‘The Great Dictator’ Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Open Daily 10–17 7. Staraj się rozumieć i wspierać innych Nov 20 and Nov 24 Aðalstræti 16 Sep 8–Dec 31 8. Nie poddawaj się, droga do sukcesu jest długa Ingmar Bergman’s ‘Beröringen’ Open daily 10–17 Architecture at Eye Level Nov 27 and Dec 1 Permanent exhibition: Sep 8–Nov 4 9. Znajdź i rozwijaj swoje zdolności Henry Levin’s ‘A Journey to the Centre The Settlement Exhibition Eggert Pétursson – Retrospective 10. Stawiaj sobie zadania i pozwól swoim marzeniom of the Earth’ Reykjavík Art Museum Paintings by Eggert Pétursson, się spełnić Dec 4 and Dec 8 – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture an Icelandic artist famed for his Ingmar Bergman’s ‘Viskningar och Museum meticulous depictions of flowers. rop’ Sigtún Nov 17 – Jan 13 2008 The National Gallery of Iceland Open daily 10–16 Blonde Miss World 1951 Fríkirkjuvegur Admission ticket is valid for three days Paintings by Birgir Snæbjörn Birgisson. Tue.–Sun. 11–17 in all three museums. He has painted portraits of Miss Free Entrance Free entrance every Thursday. World winning contestants from 1951 www.listasafn.is www.listasafnreykjavikur.is onwards. Nov 2 – Feb 10 2008 Mar 31–Dec 31 Sep 15–Dec 31 Kristján Davíðsson exhibition Folk Tales Jóhannes S. Kjarval – Key Works Nov 2 – Feb 10 2008 An exhibition of works by Icelandic Paintings by Jóhannes S. Kjarval Works from the collection of Markús draughtsmen who took on the task Oct 20 – Jan 13 2008 Ívarsson of illustrating folk tales from the oral Meditation on Furniture The National Museum tradition. Works of architect and designer Óli Suðurgata 41 Apr 2–Dec 31 Jóhann Ásmundsson Open daily 10–17 The Shape of Life Reykjavík Maritime Museum natmus.is/ A new retrospective of the works by Grandagarður 8 Permanent exhibition: Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition Open Tue.–Sun. 11–17 The Making of a Nation focuses on abstract works from 1945 www.sjominjasafn.is Sep 9–Jan 27 onwards. Current exhibition: Extraordinary Child Reykjavík Art Museum Trawlers in Iceland Photographs by Mary Ellen Mark and – Hafnarhús Reykjavík Museum Ívar Brynhólfsson, artwork by students Tryggvagata 17 Kistuhylur 4 in Öskjuhlíðaskóli and Safamýrarskóli, Open daily 10–17 Open daily from 10–17 and a documentary by filmmaker Nov 2 – Jan 27 2008 www.arbaejarsafn.is Martin Bell. Hreinn Friðfinnsson exhibition. Current exhibitions: The Nordic House Friðfinnsson’s practice encompasses Building Techniques in Reykjavík Sturlugata 5 photography and drawing as well as 1840-1940; Disco and Punk – Different Tue.–Sun. 12–17 sculptures and installations. His works cultures?; Christmas is Coming; www.nordice.is/ are linked by a common sensibility History of Reykjavík – from farm to B6 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Listings

Icelandic Red Cross volunteers provide valuable services to those most in need in Icelandic society. You can join us in building a better society by taking part in our humanitarian work. Music

Red Cross Visiting Service Red Cross Helpline - 1717 Hundreds of people receive regular visits The 24-hour Helpline serves people who need Grapevine conert from Red Cross volunteers. to talk to someone about their problems. The biggest names in Icelandic pop surrounding the making of their second Red Cross Centres Red Cross Clothing Programme are preparing for one popalicious con- record which will come out next spring. The Icelandic Red Cross runs eight centres Some 200 volunteers around Iceland partici- cert at NASA this Friday, November 16. The pop charts mania surrounding throughout the country. pate in the Red Cross clothing programme. Sprengjuhöllin has come into recent Motion Boys should be described with a Red Cross Youth fame in the past year with their close- sensationalism similar to the rest. Their to-home musings on the Icelandic ev- hit single Hold Me Closer to Your Heart The work of the Icelandic Red Cross Youth is eryday, and have gained special recog- has elevated them to semi-stardom in guided by Red Cross principles and values. nition since the recent release of their the Reykjavík music scene and that The projects are diverse and rewarding debut album Tímarnir Okkar, which has without a single release. – so come and join us! received shining reviews. Tickets on sale now and available Jeff Who? climbed to the top of the for 1,500 ISK at midi.is, at Skífan and in charts last year with their hit single Bar- BT stores outside of Reykjavík. fly which is still circulating as a bar an- them, and are now making their return November 16 www.redcross.is to the live music scene after a short rest NASA, by Austurvöllur

city; Memories of a House; Living and Portraits that were part of the 2006 Playing Nordic portrait competition, The The Reykjavík Museum Brewer J.C. Jacobsen’s Portrait Award. of Photography Gljúfrasteinn Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor – Halldór Laxness museum Weekdays 12–19 270 Mosfellsbær Sat.–Sun. 13–17 Open daily except Mondays from CONCERT AT Free Entrance 10 –17. www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is Kópavogur Art Museum ALL SAINTS’ DAY Oct 25 – Dec 18 – Gerðarsafn Photographs by Lind Völundardóttir Hamraborg, Kópavogur Sep 15–Nov 25 Open daily 11–17 except Mondays TH NOVEMBER 4 AT 17.00 Dagblaðið Víísir! / Víísir Newspaper! www.gerdarsafn.is Press photography in Iceland from Sep 22–Nov 11 AT HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA 1960 to 2000. Ancient Art from China Safn An exhibition from the municipal Laugavegur 37 museum of Wuhan, China. Wed.–Fri. 14–18 The Icelandic Museum Sat.–Sun. 14–17 of Design and Applied Art Free Entrance Lyngás 7–9, 121 Garðabær www.safn.is Opening hours: Tues.–Fri. 14–18; Sat. Requiemby Current exhibitions: and Sun. 16–18. –Eternal Eruption www.mudesa.org Collaboration between artists Birgir Exhibitions devoted to Icelandic Gabriel Fauré Andrésson and Ragna Róbertsdóttir design. (1845-1924) –New Videoworks The Icelandic Settlement Centre The Spanish/Icelandic collective Lidia Brákarbraut 1–15, Borgarnes Castro and Ólafur Ólafsson Opening hours: May to Sep 10–20; Sep Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum to May 11–17. Laugarnestangi 70 www.landnam.is Open Tue.–Sun. 14–17 Permanent exhibitions: Requiemby Permanent exhibition: The Settlement of Iceland: The Saga of Works of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson Egill Skalla-Grímsson Smátíma Suðsuðvestur Ildebrando Pizzetti Laugavegur 21 (basement) Hafnargata 22, Keflavík (1880-1968) Nov 9 – Nov 15 Thu.–Fri. 16–18 Steinunn Gunnlaugsdóttir and Páll Sat.–Sun. 14–17 PERFORMERS: Björnsson www.sudsudvestur.is Marta Guðrún Halldórsdóttir SOPRANO Start Art / Art Shop Oct 13 – Nov 18 Laugavegur 12b Ferðir / Trips Benedikt Ingólfsson BARITONE www.startart.is Kristinn G. Harðarson exhibition MOTET CHOIR OF HALLGRIMCHURCH Current exhibition: Vatnasafn / Library of Water Björn Steinar Sólbergsson ORGANIST The Start Art Group Bókhlöðustígur 17, 340 Stykkishólmur www.libraryofwater.is Open daily from 11–17. CONDUCTOR: Hörður Áskelsson Outside Reykjavík Permanent exhibition: Roni Horn installation. She has Hafnarborg replaced stacks of books with glass TICKETS AT CHURCH ENTRANCE Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður columns containing water gathered Mon.–Sun. 11–17 from Iceland’s glaciers and glacial ADMISSION: 2.000/1.500 kr. www.hafnarborg.is rivers. Oct 13–Dec 22 Sandgerði Museum Portræt Nu! Gerðavegur 1, Sandgerði. Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | B7

Until Feb 7, 2008 Movie Theatres Polar Adventures Exhibition on the life and work of the Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 French polar explorer, scientist and 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 doctor Jean-Baptiste Charcot. Háskólabíó, Hagatorg Jónas Viðar Gallery 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri Laugarásbíó, Laugarás Fri.–Sat. 13–18 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 www.jvs.is/jvgallery.htm Smárabíó, Smáralind Nov 10 – Dec 2 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 Paintings by Sigurlín Margrét Sambíóin, Álfabakki 8 Grétarsdóttir 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 Akureyri Art Museum Sambíóin, Kringlan 4-12 Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 Tue.–Sun. 12–17 Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorg www.listasafn.akureyri.is 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 Oct 20 – Dec 16 Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 Taktföst tortíming / Rhythm Decay 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 Group exhibition with Baldvin Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 Ringsted Vignisson, Will Duke, Erica 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 Eyres, Jóna Hlíf Halldórsdóttir and Lorna Macintyre. Curated by Francis McKee DaLí Gallery Events Brekkugata 9, Akureyri Mon.–Sat. 14–18 www.daligallery.blogspot.com Conference on Cultural and GalleriBOX Linguistic Diversity Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri Nov 2 – Nov 3 www.galleribox.blogspot.com The International Conference on Cul- Current exhibition: tural and Linguistic Diversity will be Þorbjörg Halldórsdóttir exhibition held in Reykjavík on November 2 and Skaftfell 3. The conference is organised by the Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Vigdís Finnbogadóttir Institute of For- www.skaftfell.is eign Languages at the University of Aug 11–Nov 11 Iceland. Among keynote speakers will A group exhibition featuring works by be former President of Iceland Vigdís Erla Þórarinsdóttir, Hulda Hákon, Jón Finnbogadóttir, Professor Peter Austin Óskar and Steingrímur Eyfjörð from the School of Oriental and Afri- can Studies, Professor Bernard Spolsky from Bar-Ilan University and Professor Tomohiro Tanikawa from the Univer- sity of Tokyo. Representatives from lan- guage instituteswriter around Halld r Laxness, the world will www.gljufrasteinn.is Nobel Prize for literature 1955. also introduce their research. For more 20 min from Reykjavik city centre info see: www.vigdis.hi.is.On the way to Thingvellir National Park

The UniversityTel. + 354of 586Iceland, 8066 / www .gljufrasteinn.is Films Sæmundargata 6 Young Art Festival Nov 2 – Nov 10 The Heartbreak Kid The annual art festival for young peo- Smárabíó, Sambíóin Álfabakki, ple, organised by Hitt Húsið, takes place Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó, Sambíóin at various Reykjavík locations from No- Keflavík vember 2 to 10. Since 1992, the festival The Dark is Rising has presented works by young up-and- Smárabíó, Regnboginn coming artists, musicians and design- Good Luck Chuck ers. This year’s cultural mishmash Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Regnboginn, includes art exhibitions, concerts, a Borgarbíó, Sambíóin Selfoss fashion show, theatre and dance per- Resident Evil: Extinction formances and other arty events. Ad- Smárabíó mission is free to all happenings. For a The Invasion full schedule see www.unglist.is Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin Open House at the Intercultural Kringlan, Sambíóin Akureyri Centre Stardust Every Friday night, the Intercultural Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin Centre plays host to an intercultural Kringlan, Sambíóin Keflavík, Sambíóin meeting. The concept is to bring for- Akureyri eigners and Icelanders together, and No Reservation to give them the opportunity to get to Sambíóin Álfabakki know other people and to share experi- I Now Pronounce You Chuck and ences. The meetings feature plenty of glaumbar - tryggvagötu 20 - tel: 552-6868 Larry activities that allow the attendees to stir Sambíóin Álfabakki things up into a nice cultural broth. En- www.glaumbar.is Veðramót trance is free. Háskólabíó The Intercultural Centre, Hverfisgata 18 Syndir feðranna Reykjavík Documentary Háskólabíó Workshop Eastern Promises Nov 22 – Nov 24 Háskólabíó On November 22, the 2006 documenta- Heima ry ‘A Story of People in War and Peace’ Háskólabíó will be screened at the Nordic House. The Kingdom The film deals with the conflict be- Háskólabíó, Sambíóin Kringlan tween Armenia and Azerbaijan, which In the Land of Women started in 1988. The director, Vardan Sambíóin Kringlan Hovhannisyan witnessed the battle as 4 Days, 3 Weeks and 2 Days a war reporter and the film is based on Regnboginn the footage he shot. On November 24, Edge of Heaven the director will give a lecture about Regnboginn his film. The screening and the lecture War (Nov 2) are both organised by the Reykjavík This is England (Nov 2) Documentary Workshop, an associa- Rendition (Nov 2) tion whose aim is to spread the culture Balls of Fury (Nov 2) of documentary filmmaking to profes- Rogue Assassin (Nov 9) sionals and others interested in docu- Lions for Lambs (Nov 9) mentaries in Iceland. The screening Mr. Woodcock (Nov 9) starts at 20:00. For further information La Vie en Rose (Nov 16) see www.rdw.is. Wedding Dace (Nov 16) The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5 WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS Dan in Real Life (Nov 23) Hitman (Nov 30) Butterfly on a Wheel (Dec 7) News // Dining // Travelling // Shopping Bee Movie (Dec 7) EATING 1 8 Pizza King Vor Hafnarstræti 18 Laugavegur 24 This small pizza place is not only cheap Vor’s refreshing take on café-style eat- but offers the largest slices of pizza you’ll 13 Hafnarstræti ing is marked by its use of fresh ingre- get downtown. Charging only 350 ISK dients and a health-conscious menu that per slice, not to mention the special emphasises French and Mediterranean lunch offer where a 10” pizza with three RESTAURANT cuisine. The fresh spring salad and the toppings of your choice and a can of Press reviews: Coke costs only 800 ISK, Pizza King is Austurstræti excellent carrot-ginger soup are excellent 3 pick-me-ups on rainy days, and the cof- a local favourite. The fact it’s open until .. Probably the best fee served is of the highest quality. 6 on Friday and Saturday nights doesn’t addition to Icelandic hurt either. restaurant landscape Bankastræti Ingólfsstræti .. Great food, something new in 2 Hornið 9 Bernhöftsbakarí Hafnarstræti 15 Bergstaðarstræti 13 Lækjargata Iceland, like never Hverfisgata seen before The casual family-friendly Italian-style It’s a bakery, the oldest one in the city Laugavegur corner restaurant has operated at the in fact, selling all sorts of bakery goods, Fine dining Indian same spot since 1979 when it became snacks and an extensive selection of the a loyal member of the Icelandic dining- sweet stuff from early dawn. We particu- cusine, hard to beat SPOT THIS: Hlöllabátar 11 Skólavörðustígur out tradition. Most famous for its pizzas larly love the spelt bread in the morning, anywhere!! and the generously stuffed calzone, the and some snúður, kleina and vínarbrauð Ingólfstorgi, 101 Reykjavík wholesome menu prides itself on all sorts to go with the afternoon coffee. Hlöllabátar sandwich bar sits in the middle toppings from assorted vegetables and stir Frakkastigur 12, of high-standard pasta dishes, vegetarian Klapparstígur tel: 551-7722 and meat courses, all very affordable. of Ingólfstorg square, the perfect stop- fried meat and enjoy the guilty pleasure open 17 til late ping place for a late night snack, or a light that is a greasy sandwich with a cold soda. www.indianmango.is lunch, if you are so inclined. Select your

3 Deco 10 Bæjarins bestu 7 Austurstræti 12 Tryggvagata Deco, a café and wine bar that has ev- There’s a good reason why there’s always 4 erything you need for a quality lunch a line in front of Bæjarins Bestu, regard- 32 café, right in the city centre. Its modern less of the weather or time of day. Select- and stylish interiors, varied menu and ed the best hot-dog stand in Europe by 18 impressive selection of whiskey, draw The Guardian, a fact locals realized de- 42 39 me back again soon. Deco usually gets cades ago, it has been serving “ein með 5 22 23 quite crowded during the evening, when öllu” (“one with the lot”) to downtown 11 31 it turns into more of a wine bar than a pedestrians since 1935, making it the 41 Austurstræti coffeehouse. oldest fast food restaurant in the coun- 6 Ingólfsstræti try. Grabbing a bite couldn’t be easier. Bankastræti Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur 4 Icelandic Fish Chips 11 Hlöllabátar Tryggvagata 8 Ingólfstorgi 9 Not the regular fish’n’chips diner but a Hlöllabátar sandwich bar sits in the Tjarnargata Þingholtsstræti healthy restaurant using only organic middle of Ingólfstorg square, the perfect vegetables, quality fish products and stopping place for a late night snack, or Bergstaðarstræti no wheat or white sugar in its kitchen. a light lunch, if you are so inclined. Select Frakkastígur WWW. Deep-fried catch of the day served with your toppings from assorted vegetables Óðinsgata oven baked potatoes and Skyronnes, and stir fried meat and enjoy the guilty a sauce made out of the fat-free milk pleasure that is a greasy sandwich with GRAPE product Skyr and flavoured with all sorts a cold soda. of spices, on the side for 1350 ISK. They VINE.IS also offer take-away at all times. Barónsstígur

DRINKING News // Dining 5 Sjávarkjallarinn 12 Á næstu grösum 15 18 Glaumbar 21 Sirkus Travelling // Shopping Aðalstræti 2 (First Vegetarian) Grái Kötturinn Tryggvagata 20 Klapparstígur 30 In an elegant setting, Seafood Cellar Laugavegur 20B Hverfisgata 16a Here is a bit of trivial information: In Ice- Attracting a mixed crowd of party-peo- chefs serve gourmet fusion style dishes, Many locals claim this to be the best A small antique-style coffee house in a landic, ‘glaumur’ means the sound of a ple, the small bar Sirkus has always been where the emphasis is not only on ocean vegetarian restaurant in town offering a Hverfisgata basement, legendary for its party. I don’t know what more you need popular among musicians and the cre- delights, but also on all sorts of tempt- menu with plenty of vegan and vegetar- early opening hours, amazing breakfast to know about Glaumbar, except per- ative crowd who get along well although ing Asia-inspired dishes. The most fun ian options, both healthy and tasty. Ask and strong coffee that will easily wake haps that it is the premier sports bar in the breathing space can be limited on is to order the exotic menu, a range of for the daily special or try the selection you up in the morning. We especially town. After the final whistle, the action weekends. While Sirkus’s DJs provide for courses carefully selected by the chef, of three different courses. The Indian recommend The Truck, American style on the dance floor becomes feverish as the greatest party possible every week- and share it with your dining partners. theme on Fridays is usually a hit and the breakfast consisting of eggs, bacon, pan- local DJs take central role. end, the bar occasionally hosts concerts sugar free banana cake just one of the cakes, fried potatoes, tomatoes, syrup on weeknights. highly tempting desserts. and toast. The bagels are also excellent.

6 Shalimar 13 Nonnabiti 16 Kaffi Hljómalind 19 Hressó 22 Organ Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 9 Laugavegur 21 Austurstræti 20 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Few places in Reykjavík match the great Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, This organic, free-trade café prides itself The celebrated site of one of the more The stylish two-floored bar and concert combination of good price, excellent Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, on being a non-profit company and a famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ venue Organ presents a diverse range food, and fast service available at Shali- is one of the more popular junk food dedicated venue for the hardcore and café/bistro brings a European flair to the of concerts by local and international mar. On the menu are assorted Indian- places around, offering a large selection cultural scene by hosting concerts, lec- city. That is until about 11, when things acts at least four times a week. Features Pakistan dishes and the lunch special is of take-away or dine in subs, sandwich- tures and poetry nights. Serving delicious get to rockin’, and you can see the true established bands and young emerg- always a great bet for a good meal dur- es and burgers with a nice dash of the soups and vegetarian dishes as well as character of Reykjavík. ing musicians; the newly opened venue ing a busy day. Grapevine staffers are unique Nonni-sauce. If you have a late organic tea, coffee and cake, this is the can accommodate 300 people and has frequently spotted in the locale, which night craving there’s no need to worry, place to visit for a reasonably priced enough seats for weary concertgoers to should be recommendation enough. Nonni is open longer than most other healthy lunch. rest between sets. Open ’til way past late places. on weekends.

7 Sægreifinn 14 Austurlanda- 17 Segafredo 20 Kaffibarinn 23 Gaukurinn Verbúð 8, Geirsgata hraðlestin By Lækjartorg Bergstaðastræti 1 Tryggvagata 22 Located right next to the Reykjavík har- Hverfisgata 64A The Italian coffee-chain found its spot in A popular coffee place on weekdays, es- Reykjavík’s version of CBGB’s, Gaukurinn bour, Sægreifinn fish shop and restau- Although a little pricey for a take-away, the heart of Reykjavík, with its windows pecially among students and downtown has been a mainstay in the Icelandic mu- rant is truly like no other you’ll witness in charging around 1600 ISK for a main facing the Lækjartorg Square. Serving workers who like to enjoy a bottle of sic scene since the days of Ingólfur Ar- the country. The menu features various course, the food is well worth that extra lunch snacks like paninis and strong beer after a busy day. At weekends, Kaf- narson. A popular live venue, this is the fish dishes and a rich portion of the best spending once in a while. Serving typi- espressos for coffee lovers whether you fibarinn becomes the opposite of a quiet place to find young and upcoming band, lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. It also ca- cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure need to grab a cup and sandwich on the destination, as its two floors fill up with as well as older and more established ters to groups upstairs where the room chest for those with a penchant for a way to work or want to enjoy your drink the late-night souls. With DJs playing live bands. Anyone who is anything in Icelan- looks more like a cabin than a diner. The spicy bite. There are also a few tables in- on the spot. sets from Wednesday to Saturday, the dic music has passed through Gaukurinn good food and welcoming service make side for those who choose to dine in. party doesn’t start winding down until at one point or another. this place a must-try. early morning. 30 SHOPPING 37 DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍK Cintamani G-Star Raw Laugavegur 11 Laugavegur 86 If there is one thing you need in Iceland it is warm clothing. In a country known 13 Buying jeans used to be a simple task. Hafnarstræti for rapid wheather changes, you either 10 With the ever-growing selection, suc- come prepared, or buy the appropriate 2 cessful jeans hunting can take days. The gear. Designed and developed in Iceland task did not get any easier with the re- to meet rugged wheather conditions, Ask for a Tax Free cent addition of a store from the indus- Austurstræti 8 Cintamani clothing has been worn on try powerhouse G-Star Raw. This Dutch form & save up to 15% 3 17 both the North and the South Poles, as brand features an edgy collection, au- well as on the top of Mount Everest. thentic details and innovative washings. 19 43 Bankastræti Ingólfsstræti 15 25 31 Underground 38 Trilogia Lækjargata 33 38 Veltusund 1 Laugavegur 7 26 37 Hverfisgata 40 Laugavegur Located in a basement by Ingólfstorg, A collection of trendy designer wear 28 35 44 former pro skater, Mike Carroll’s skate- fills the space at fashion shop Trilogia, 21 board shop Underground is aptly named. including amazing designs by Alexander 16 Skólavörðustígur The shop offers all the relevant skating McQueen and Chloe alongside Robert 20 gear, be it clothing or boards, from in- Cary Williams, Erotokritos and many, dustry leading brand names such as many more. Summery dresses, sweaters 12 27 DC, Circa and others. A wide array of and skirts for all the fashion conscious Klapparstígur 1 T-shirts, shoes, and other skating neces- girls out there as well as cool accessories 24 sities available. to complete the look. 34 29

32 Kirsuberjatréð 39 Kolaportið Vesturgata 4 Tryggvagata 19 Kirsuberjatréð is the perfect little gift A trip to the downtown indoor flea mar- shop. A co-op gallery/gift shop owned ket Kolaportið down by the harbour is and operated by ten women artists and always a fun way to spend a Saturday af- designers. Kirsuberjatréð is the commer- ternoon. Endless stalls offering all kinds cial outlet where they sell their products. of second-hand goods, candy and even The selections ranges from clothes, bas- fermented shark and Icelandic liquorice. kets, ceramics, copper sculptures, fish If ready to spend some time thoroughly Austurstræti skin items, paper crafts, contemporary examining the selection you can find Ingólfsstræti jewelry, felt items, and various other some great bargains. Only open on Bankastræti designs. weekends. Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur 14 33 Kisan 40 Nakti Apinn 36 Laugavegur 7 Bankastræti 14 Tjarnargata Concept boutique Kisan is a shopping Nakti Apinn, located on the second floor Þingholtsstræti destination worth checking out. Stuffed at Bankastræti 14, offers an amazing va- with everything from books, CD’s and riety of colourful street-clothing, includ- Bergstaðarstræti 30 Frakkastígur accessories to baby clothes, interior dec- ing hooded sweatshirts, T-shirts and leg- Óðinsgata orations, jewellery and bathing products, gings designed by the owners and hand- the shop offers something for everyone. printed with different patterns, graphics The two owners who have travelled the and figures. Inside you’ll also find a good world extensively in search for unique selection of Icelandic music, books on quality products carefully select all the art and design, accessories, baby clothes Barónsstígur items for sale. and international designer wear.

Sirkus 24 Boston 27 Barinn 34 Laugavegur 28 41 Thorvaldsens Bazar Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 28b Laugavegur 22 Laugavegur 28 Austurstræti 4 Attracting a mixed crowd of party-peo- Located above the second-hand fashion Up-and-coming Barinn is becoming A fresh addition to the Laugavegur fash- Located inside a dignified wooden build- ple, the small bar Sirkus has always been store Spútnik, with its roomy bar floor quite popular among Reykjavík party ion scene, four separate stores under ing, Thorvaldsens Bazar is among the popular among musicians and the cre- and nice sofas in the lounge room up- scenesters. Its three floors and equally one roof, second-hand clothing and ac- oldest shops in Reykjavík, opening in ative crowd who get along well although stairs, Boston is a fresh addition to the numerous bars get quite crowded dur- cessories stores Elvis and Rokk og rósir, 1901 and run by the women’s charity the breathing space can be limited on Reykjavík bar scene. Old-school yet styl- ing weekends where a mix of dancing and CD experts Smekkleysa, all staples of organization the Thorvaldsen Society. weekends. While Sirkus’s DJs provide for ish interiors, and enough tables to cre- downstairs and chatting upstairs make the Laugavegur shopping experience. In Selling souvenirs, handicrafts, woollen the greatest party possible every week- ate a good vibe, make the place a comfy for a good night out. Though mostly a addition, the new store, Pop, supplying underclothes and sweaters as well as Ice- end, the bar occasionally hosts concerts café as well as a laid-back tavern where DJ bar, Barinn occasionally hosts live gigs neat stuff for the home. The collective landic jewellery, the friendly saleswomen on weeknights. the music is good but never intrusive. and is always a fun party venue. will offer unique clothing and ornaments work as volunteers and all profits are do- and supply the score to your life. nated to charity work.

Organ 25 Café Cultura 28 Q-Bar 35 Gullkúnst Helgu 42 Fríða Frænka Hafnarstræti 1-3 Hverfisgata 18 Ingólfsstræti 3 Laugavegur 13 Vesturgata 3 The stylish two-floored bar and concert Located inside the Intercultural Cen- A spacious gay/straight friendly bar, the This spacious and classy store sells jew- This small boutique is a jam-packed venue Organ presents a diverse range tre, Cultura is a restaurant/bar with a newly renovated Q-Bar is a welcome ad- ellery made from lava and other stone. treasure chest overflowing with antique of concerts by local and international cosmopolitan feel, hosting an array of dition to the nightlife downtown. In styl- Gullkunst Helgu, which is housed in the furniture and items to perk up your acts at least four times a week. Features events and various theme nights like ish and comfortable surroundings, with 1924 built shop on Laugevegur 13, has apartment. In every corner of the shop, established bands and young emerg- Salsa teaching, tango nights and fusion a lounge-like atmosphere, a good vibe been selling unique jewellery such as you’ll find some unique items, including ing musicians; the newly opened venue parties. The menu features all sorts of and plenty of seats, the place never gets necklaces, bracelets and watches for 15 candle holders, lamps, pillows, gorgeous can accommodate 300 people and has international dishes like Thai soup, Span- uncomfortably crowded nor too noisy years. 60’s sofas, tables, vases and a selection enough seats for weary concertgoers to ish tapas, fahjitas and falafel mixed with for conversation. of clothes and vintage jewellery. rest between sets. Open ’til way past late bistro regulars such as sandwiches and on weekends. salads.

Gaukurinn 26 Prikið 29 Dillon 36 Börn Náttúrunnar 43 Iða Tryggvagata 22 Bankastræti 12 Laugavegur 30 Skólavörðustígur 17a Lækjargata 2a Reykjavík’s version of CBGB’s, Gaukurinn This two-floor café/pub has been a part The quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- The children’s toy store Börn Náttúrun- The spacious Iða bookstore is a great has been a mainstay in the Icelandic mu- of Reykjavík’s bar scene for decades. tures moderately priced drinks, a dark nar, located in a Skólavörðustígur base- source for all kinds of reading material of- sic scene since the days of Ingólfur Ar- With a large and fairly cheap bistro and cosy mood and some pretty good ment, sells clothes and toys made only of fering an excellent range of books, travel narson. A popular live venue, this is the menu, Prikið attracts a mix of university music (especially when local favourite organic products as well as books about guides, magazines, post-cards and great place to find young and upcoming band, students with their laptops and elderly DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The childcare and parenthood. Here you can gift items. The first-class service will help as well as older and more established devoted regulars during the day while tattooed, beer-lovin’ types who hang buy creative wooden playthings and you search for what you need. On the bands. Anyone who is anything in Icelan- the younger clientele fills up the space out there on school nights are joined by woollen products for the young ones second floor you’ll find restaurants serv- dic music has passed through Gaukurinn during the evening and especially at legions of parka-clad students during carefully selected by the parents who ing sushi, soups and sandwiches. at one point or another. weekends when the music is mostly weekends, creating a party atmosphere own the shop. dedicated to hip-hop and R&B. that’s always fun to partake in.

ORIGINAL INDIAN & PAKISTANI TASTE

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 950.- INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE 1150.- AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B10 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Reviews

Photo by GAS Photo by GAS Sushibarinn Vox Bistro / Restaurant

Since opening its doors six weeks ago, Sushibarinn has fast become Address: Vox restaurant is located on the first floor of the Hilton Reykjavík Address: the talk of the town among Reykjavík sushi-lovers, and for good rea- Laugavegur 2 Nordica hotel on Suðurlandsbraut. It is actually a two-for-one kind Suðurlandsbraut 2 son as their rolls are among the best in the city. 101 Reykjavík of package, with a less formal bistro operation in the front of the 108, Reykjavík The whole setting inside the small bar makes for a good fusion Tel.: 552 4444 large dining room, separated from the more elegant and official Vox Tel.: 444 5050 between oriental tradition and the somewhat more familiar settings Restaurant by a huge glass room that serves as a wine cellar. On this of the West. All the staff wear traditional Japanese robes and the Reviewed by visit, we dined at the more casual bistro, which has its own separate Reviewed by stylish and warm interior gives you a feeling of being somewhere Sverrir Hjálmarsson menu. Sveinn Birkir Björnsson else than in Reykjavik, Iceland. This feeling became even stronger The menu is divided into light courses and main courses. The when I was greeted by an English-speaking chef with a German ac- light courses range from around 1000 to 1600 ISK and include dishes cent. While we waited for our food I enjoyed taking in the scenery, such as Icelandic meat soup and Nordic tapas, with more traditional especially the view coming from a TV-monitor in one of the corners. light dishes such as chicken and Caesar salad available as well. The It was showing what I’m sure must be the Japanese version of Power main courses are in the 1600 to 3000 ISK price range, with beef ten- Rangers, only this one is much better. derloin topping the chart at 2990 ISK. Considering the attentive and For starters we had miso soup and seaweed salad. I had never professional service, the quality of the food, and the prestigious Hil- tried miso soup before and to be honest I didn’t like it. But my com- ton affiliation, the prices are surprisingly low. panion for the evening assured me that it was very good and since We started with dishes from the light course menu; chicken, she has more experience than me in this field I’m going to take her served in tempura with basil and ruccola for my date, and classic word for it. The seaweed salad on the other hand was deliciously Icelandic meat soup for yours truly. The chicken fell somewhere be- fresh and exotic. Our next course was the “best for one” dish which tween the unsurprising and the indifferent, but the meat soup was consisted of twelve different kinds of sushi. We got Nigiri rolls, small instantly placed in the category reserved for extremely tasty and rolls, inside-out rolls, battleship sushi and so on. The mix changes memorable meat soups. Although sparse in ingredients, the clear from day to day depending on the availability of fresh ingredients. meat soup was rich in flavour and free from the oily residue of lamb Next the waiter brought us six pieces of salmon uramaki (inside-out fat that sometimes ruins the pleasure of this popular Icelandic dish. rolls). As expected they were delicious. Last but not least we were For a main course, she ordered the beef tenderloin, while I se- served minke whale tatake which came with ginger, mustard and lected another Icelandic traditional favourite: lamb chops. The beef dipping sauce which had a liquorice taste to it. It was so good that tenderloin was an instant success. Served with fries and béarnaise I’m sure that if we gave it to Paul Watson he would abandon his sauce, it was both tender and tasty, and the portion surprisingly ridiculous crusade and become a whale hunter. hefty. The lamb chops followed strict guidelines, perfected through It has always been a dream of mine to visit Japan, but until the decades by Icelandic housewives, served with brown sauce and that happens I’m going to make the most of the little piece of Japan browned potatoes. It passed the test with flying colours. found at Laugavegur 2. I hope you will too. With little stomach room to spare, we decided to share a choc- olate cake for desert. That proved to be a mistake – it was far too good to share.

by the sea and a delicios lobster Let’s at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri spend the night together!

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Clockwise from top-left:

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The popularity of British chain store TopShop has patterned leggings. TopShop also stocks the new been no less in Iceland than across the globe but and hip Kate Moss collection. up until now, fashion-conscious shoppers could What makes this shop such a popular shop- only purchase the reasonably-priced feminine ping destination among girls of all ages is that you clothing in the Smáralind Mall. TopShop is branch- can easily take the time to dress up from top to ing out and has opened a new outlet in Kringlan toe for an affordable price, or, if in a hurry, grab a Mall stuffed with warm jackets, coats and stylish glamorous dress on the run for an evening party. winter pieces that both look and feel good during the cold and dark winter months. TopShop, Kringlan Mall, Kringlan 4-12 The new store is not only filled with casual outerwear but also carries a broad range of cute tops, boots, cardigans, trousers, hoodies, cheap jewellery and accessories and a nice selection of Discover the wonders of Iceland in a Berg car. ® BERGcar rental Safety all the way!

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Crystal snuff bottle with playing children inner painted by Ye Zhongsan QING ( 1644AD – 1911AD)

Exhibition of

– Wuhan

The exhibition is open until the 11th of November. Opening hours 11-17 (except Mondays). Only 10 min by bus S1 or S2 from Lækjargata or Hlemmur, every 20 minutes. KÓPAVOGUR Disembark at the first stop in Kópavogur. ART MUSEUM B14 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Interview

Our photographer caught a rare moment when the MOMS group was actually all in the same room, and still wearing clothes. Photo by GAS

The MOMS Parade

“The audience squirted ketchup on us, threw oat- exhibited both in Iceland and abroad. Their most “The fancy arty people from New York sat at their MOMS’ involvement with meal and dog food at us and screamed in anger. recent project in Iceland was for the Sequences tables, eating and talking snobby about the exhibi- We weren’t sure if they were trying to complement Real-time art festival last month, where they put tion. In the meantime we climbed into the air and Gelitin’s provocative per- our work or if they really hated it,” explains Morri, up an exhibition on page 444 on RUV Teletext. The built a huge sculpture above their heads,” Morri ex- one of three members of artist collective MOMS, exhibition was accessible to all TV owners in the plains. “In high heels!” Schuyler adds. formances has got them when discussing the group’s latest performance. country who could view their art without even leav- When the monstrous structure was finished, MOMS’ performance, entitled ‘Piss at Us’, was ing the living room couch. the grand finale was about to shock some diners. into plenty of weird situa- part of the Artisit? art festival that took place in Gal- The ongoing collaboration with aforemen- Standing in a row with the guests underneath way, Ireland last month. They got a huge space to tioned art ensemble Gelitin has brought MOMS them, they peed in each other’s bucket hats. “It was tions that usually involve work in, invited some friends, including acclaimed some international attention, for example at the like a human fountain,” Morri continues: “After I Austrian art group Gelitin, and built a large walk- Venice Biennial in June this year. The crew ended had finished, a really weird guy came up to me and stupidity, nudity, urinat- in sculpture out of scaffolding and other material up shuttling people in a leaking homemade Viking asked, “Is the pee for sale?” I told him we hadn’t they found lying around. It took two days of intense boat and competing in an international swimming decided.” ing in public and some work to finish the masterpiece and decorate it with contest. They were all surprised to win. MOMS’ involvement with Gelitin’s provoca- handmade heads and penises, toilet paper and Today, MOMS has become an important part tive performances has got them into plenty of weird other crazy heat-of-the- ketchup bottles. of the Gelitin group. “I guess we’re like their little situations that usually involve stupidity, nudity, uri- On the opening night, the audience crowded brother or something,” Schuyler says. When asked nating in public and some other crazy heat-of-the- moment ideas. Why are the site. People walked around the sculpture while how the collaboration came about Morri explains, moment ideas. Why are they usually naked? “It’s throwing greasy stuff at the group of half-naked “In June 2006 one of our teachers asked us if we freeing,” they tell me. they usually naked? artists who were trapped like animals in a fight pit wanted to work with Austrian artists who were to The teamwork continues and in December they had built the sculpture around. “In the end, exhibit at gallery Kling & Bang. We had no idea MOMS will fly off to Paris to do a show again with we started to piss on each other to keep us warm. I who they were at that time. We met them at the Gelitin at the Paris Museum of Modern Art, sched- mean, we were freezing,” American artist Schuyler gallery, showed them our sketchbooks and these uled to open in February. After that, the only plan says. “This project was the most difficult I’ve ever really strange guys liked our work. We ended up for MOMS is to keep working together for as long done. Both physically and mentally,” Morri contin- taking part in their performance, called ‘Hugris’.” as they can stand each other. “Me and Mundi have ues. Mundi, the third MOMS member keeps draw- After the Kling & Bang adventure, the two art even thought about marrying and adopting Schuy- ing on his wallet and nods in agreement. groups kept in touch and in January this year Geli- ler. I read in the paper that the church will be allow- tin invited their kid-brothers to a party in New York. ing gay marriages, so we can finally do it! We are Pissing at a New York Gala Dinner They ended up assisting Gelitin at an arty gala thinking about having it like a performance,” Morri MOMS is made up of Morri and Mundi, who met at dinner in gallery Deitch Projects. With handmade concludes. The Icelandic Academy of the Arts, and Schuyler, bucket hats on their heads and high heels on their who first moved to Iceland in 2005. The threesome feet, the group flashed their genitals through holes For more info on MOMS, see: www.moms.ms is known for going unconventional ways in their art cut out of their tights while the dressed-up party creations and have planned numerous events and guests drank champagne and sampled fine dishes. Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir

What´s on? www.getrvk.com Interview | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | B15

FM Belfast’s Árni and Árni jam at the studio. Photo by GAS

It’s Our Party, and We’ll Play if We Want to

Averaging anywhere between three and eight don’t play without Lóa or without me. Everyone Árni V: I think it’s just really a mature approach I also think just showing members depending on the day and circumstance, else is... very important, but they can’t always be to play anything and anywhere. To not be starting FM Belfast is a rare breed of electronica that spo- there and we can’t always bring them along. a band and aiming for Laugardalshöll, you know, people joy, instead of try- radically borrows talent from the scene’s most Árni V: Originally it was just Árni [R.H.] and Lóa “we’re going there!” But rather just being willing to prominent bands. Their club anthem and single playing around... Someone said as a joke that they try anything out. ing to be really cool on Lotus will be released in December by TFR along should cover a song by Rage Against the Machine, Árni R.H: And we have tried quite a lot. We’ve with remixes by Kasper Bjørke and Télépopmusik. and they did it, and since then it’s just been build- tried Mál & Menning bookstore for example, and stage makes a huge The Grapevine sat down with Árni Rúnar Hlöðvers- ing onto itself. people danced there. son and Árni Vilhjálmsson in the wake of Airwaves Árni R.H: With that song, Lotus, you can really Árni V: Instead of being like “All right, dance now! difference. madness to discuss the life of a band that plays by hear the difference between the recorded and the Join us!” I think we’re getting the message across its own rules. (NOTE: this is an interview with two live versions of our songs. On the recording, Lóa by enjoying it ourselves. persons named Árni; it will require some extra at- just sings a small chorus, but when it’s taken live it Well it’s a unique approach, that you can tention.) has a lot more power in it. come together quite spontaneously and still Then you have additional voices as well. not be afraid to share your music with peo- How does it work from a practical viewpoint Árni R.H: Yeah then we have extra voices. But ple, whatever state it’s in. having half the band living on a different there is a different mood in the live set, and we’re Árni V: Yes I think that’s quite right. It’s really continent, now that two members (Árni R.H. trying to get elements of that into some recordings important to be able to play wherever for whom- and Lóa) have recently moved to New York? that we’re doing now. ever. Árni R.H: Árni [V.] is coming out in November Árni V: It would be easy to criticize us as a plug- Árni R.H: I also think just showing people joy, in- and we’re going to finish recording and maybe and-play band, but it’s not completely like that. stead of trying to be really cool on stage makes a even work on some new material. Árni R.H: It’s a bit difficult to get people to under- huge difference. People just want to dance. They Árni V: Personally I think some of the best things stand what exactly we do with our equipment. I don’t want to dance to something that seems too that happen with us are unexpected. Like how we can control how loud all these elements are as arrogant. often have people on stage that haven’t necessar- well as where we are in the song. I think people Árni V: And that wasn’t a conscious decision ei- ily been rehearsing with us. are slowly starting to realize, once they’ve been to ther. We’re not up there like “here we are perform- Árni R.H: Like during Airwaves this year. a couple of shows, that it’s not always the same, it ing, for you the audience.” We do this so as to get Árni V: We played five gigs, four of which were changes each time. people along with us. on Saturday, and in the last concert, at Gaukurinn, In the past year I started to recognize FM Bel- Árni R.H: Yeah, it’s our party, and everyone’s in- there were at least four or five people with us who fast as a sort of a “party-band.” You play a vited. maybe came in in a few songs but who weren’t lot of concerts that are connected to private ever at rehearsals. events –is that some sort of strategy or is the Text by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir But you’d say that you are the core, you two goal just to play as much as possible? and Lóa? Árni R.H: I think just play as much as possible. It’s Árni R.H: Yeah we don’t play without Árni, and we so much fun to play.

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admission 1500isk // ticket pre-sale at midi.is and in skífan and bt shops Feature | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | 13

Big Business vs. Icelandic

ond languages. And interestingly enough, when you would think that the English that is being tend to display this discrepancy between written International Baccalaureate of Business. Despite one looks at the percentage of countries in which spoken and written here in Iceland would be elo- and spoken language. having campaigned for this course he stresses the people speak two languages or more, it becomes quent and of a very high standard. However, that Essentially, proponents of English admin- importance of keeping Icelandic in high esteem apparent that the Benelux countries along with does not seem to be the case. There is a slew of istration make no distinction between listening, and that the same demands will be made in Ice- the Scandinavian ones are far ahead of, say, Italy, examples of Icelanders being culturally blind to speaking and writing skills. Furthermore, sec- landic in the curriculum as for other students. Spain and Great Britain, in their knowledge of English, not only in a grammatical sense but in ondary school courses, as they are conducted Sveinsson insists that without our national identity second languages. However, in a recent article the way they do not understand the cultural and now, are very different depending on the area and language, Icelanders would never have been in Morgunblaðið, Vilhjálmur Egilsson, Secretary linguistic fabric in which the language is built, of specialty. Students of language learn not only able to expand so exponentially in the global mar- General of the Confederation of Icelandic Em- whether it be an inside reference in the Simp- more advanced English than students of sociol- ket. Losing Icelandic is not an option according to ployers, was quoted as saying that “you need to sons or Friends, or nuances of difference amidst ogy, science or business, but also over a longer him. make a clear distinction between public service verbs or nouns. Even more importantly you need period of time. Most of the people working in the The Minister of Education and Culture, Mrs and administration when you speak of a bilingual to have a sound knowledge of literary sources, business sector matriculate from business or sci- Þorgerður Katrín Gunnarsdóttir, concurs in a administration”. The latter, as he points out quite particularly if you want to call yourself above ence courses. To clarify what English proficiency recent interview with Morgunblaðið. She under- correctly, has legal basis in our government; our average. As Sveinsson reminds us, “English is a is, Torfadóttir explains that “the Common Europe- stands Ágústsson’s proposal as a way of facili- decision- and policy-making is and will be in Ice- challenging language which only a few actually an Framework divides learners into three broad tating communication with the global business landic. Public service on the other hand must be master. People can speak it, and even use it daily; divisions which can be divided into six subdivi- world which, in effect, is unnecessary according bilingual in the least – and, as Mr. Egilsson points however, when the need arises to communicate in sions.” It defines a C2 learner, i.e. a proficient user, to her: “it is easy enough as it is now, whether out, “English is not necessarily the default main more specialized areas many Icelanders run into as being able to “understand with ease virtually in Nordic languages or English itself. We do not second language here; Polish, for example, might “onerous difficulties.”” everything heard or read, [being able to] summa- need bilingual administration. And by doing that be more appropriate”. Katrín Jakobsdóttir, for example, admits, “I rize information from different spoken and written we are sending a message of sorts that Icelandic am not horrendous in English, though I consider sources, reconstructing arguments and accounts be placed aside, something I do not find very fea- Pidgin English? myself terrible – and I am not worse than many in a coherent presentation … express[ing] him/ sible”. As odd as it may seem, Icelanders have always others I know; yet every time I have to speak about herself spontaneously, very fluently and precisely, been proud of their skills in foreign languages political issues in English I feel as if I’m a five-year- differentiating finer shades of meaning even in Conclusion while at the same time exulting in their own lan- old trying to convey my point”. Despite her modes- more complex situations.” How many Icelanders It is obvious that the business sector here in Ice- guage as one superior to others. Strangely enough, ty, Jakobsdóttir is pretty decent in English as she qualify for that status? land is speaking another language entirely when this veneration of Icelandic and its heritage seems has experience working in the tourist industry, it comes to the value of Icelandic. Various opin- to be fading. Sölvi Sveinsson, former principal of something that most bankers and lawyers do not Icelandic and Icelandic Banks ions are thrown around that have little basis in re- the Commercial College of Iceland, speaks an have. Interestingly enough, one of the CEOs of Lands- ality – and the experts are being disparaged as an alarming truth when he says, “once a nation loses When speaking to Auður Torfadóttir, Asso- bankinn bank, Sigurjón Th. Árnason, is quoted ancient and conservative force that wishes to hin- its sense of nationality, it loses all self worth; and ciate Professor at the Iceland University of Educa- in Morgunblaðið as saying that some companies der Icelanders with Icelandic. The debate is still becomes a desolated, backwater nation.” Sveins- tion, she emphasizes that her research, focusing in Iceland have already started emailing amongst raging to a certain degree and will continue to do son says, “we need to have considerable knowl- on the vocabulary of elementary and secondary each other in English, “even if the recipients are so, but the wheels have already been set in motion edge and command of our mother tongue, i.e. in students, revealed that the vocabulary they knew only Icelandic it is because it is maybe forward- and Icelandic seems to be fighting a tough battle. addition to having at least two other languages was very basic; not only was there a lack of tech- ed abroad and any given individual in a foreign However, a report by the Icelandic Language Com- “within our grasp”” thus echoing the European nical vocabulary in areas such as science, but country must be able to read and know the back- mittee on Icelandic language policy is imminent, Union charter. many were inept at writing simple paragraphs. ground of the these transactions.” Mr. Árnason including a resolution specifically on the unfortu- An important factor when discerning lan- Torfadóttir even spoke of the increasing concern goes on to mention the apparent need to bolster nate request and extreme development of English guage ability is cultural awareness; while you of university staff regarding these problems. Fur- English teaching in schools, reminding one of the in the business sector specifically. Will the fate of may speak the language, understanding the nuts thermore, because these students are unable old riddle of whether the chicken or the egg came our language be decided in boardroom meetings and bolts of a culture and nation is not a given. to write coherent essays they fail to uphold the first. These transactions worry Guðrún Kvaran, with intermediate knowledge of English? An obvious example would be immigrants seek- standards set by the Ministry of Education cur- Professor at the University of Iceland and cura- ing naturalization in the United Kingdom or the riculum. tor of the University Dictionary: “At the Icelandic Text by Marvin Lee Dupree United States; both countries apply tests of knowl- English has a more profound and all-con- Language Committee, we think it is a grave misun- edge of the language and culture as criteria in suming effect in Iceland now than a decade or derstanding if the business sector believes that it certain cases. According to the BBC, the purpose two ago. Therefore, you might expect the newer needs English to communicate better in its expan- of the Life in United Kingdom test is for “people generation to be better. However, Tor fadóttir men - sion abroad. It is more pressing for the companies [to] integrate and share in British values and tra- tions that “Results show that Icelandic school- to educate their employees in communicating ditions.” Or, to quote Sölvi Sveinsson, “when you children are capable of communicating verbally efficiently within the Icelandic business sector learn French, not only do you learn the language in a very manageable manner, or at least when notwithstanding the English-speaking market itself, you also learn its customs, history and cul- they are allowed to speak freely about their own abroad”. ture – even its culinary mores”. interests and daily life, however that diminishes Sölvi Sveinsson is adamant about Iceland’s Since we are constantly being bombarded in a structured setting.” Furthermore, the results need for a second English college course, to be by English in all facets of life and entertainment, show that schoolchildren who score high grades taught at the Commercial College of Iceland, the hzeta

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2007 hzeta

Gallery Kynnisferðir, Nordica hotel Saltfélagið

2007 16 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Feature

THE ARTISTS

THE LABEL

THE INTERNET

THE AUDIENCE Feature | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | 17

The technological changes that the internet has brought our society, coupled with di- minishing costs artists face when recording their music, have put the industry into a deer-in-the-headlights scenario.

The Last Days of the Labels

The music industry is facing some troubled wa- with music. There is no way that the wheels of owners of media to license their work somewhere close relationship with their fans. Production costs ters. To be precise, the business side of the mu- technology can be, or should be, reversed. in between the general “All rights reserved”, where of CDs and other media have dropped dramatical- sic industry is in trouble; the big publishers and no use is allowed without permission, and the ly. The last big band to do this, of course, is Radio- distributors, who, for the longest time, have con- File Sharing “Public Domain”, where all use is free. General head, who released its latest album entirely on the trolled artists’ and musicians’ access to the highly The internet has revolutionized the distribution copyright law puts heavy restrictions on all pub- internet, allowing each fan to choose the amount lucrative popular music market. The technological of music. Easy digitalization of songs and albums lished works and leaves no room for an artist or to pay. The result: Radiohead pocketed far more changes that the internet has brought our society, is what is, in the words of the industry, killing it. publisher to allow use of the work without prior money than they would have if they had signed coupled with diminishing costs artists face when Now this is nothing new, technology has attacked permission. Creative Commons makes that pos- with a big label and only sold their CD in stores or recording their music, have put the industry into a this industry before. The cassette played the role sible. In today’s world, it can be argued, general digitally in online stores. What Radiohead essen- deer-in-the-headlights scenario. A cuddly Bambi of the internet in the eighties. The mantra now re- copyright laws are much too restrictive. With a tially did was to cut out the middleman: the busi- caught in the headlights on a deserted highway peated in every media is that file sharing is result- Creative Commons license a rights owner can give ness side of the music industry. Madonna took a has essentially three choices: he can run away as ing in less music sales and the bottom lines of the up these rights if he/she chooses to do so, and so- similar route, not signing with a record label, but fast as possible, he can stand frozen waiting for big players in the industry seem to back up this ciety, in a way, demands that he/she does so. instead with a promotions company, arguing that the bumper to hit, or, if he’s starring in a Queens statement. concerts and promotional deals were far more of the Stone Age video, he can plunge at the car, The industry has responded to this by crip- The Icelandic Model? lucrative than CD sales. Prince has given his CDs capture the driver and make him his submissive pling the product they are selling, adding various Although not mentioned directly in the IMX away, faithful in the knowledge that people will slave in his Bambi colony. forms of copy protections to the media they are conference agenda, there was an underlying come to his concerts, but not necessarily buy his This last choice was discussed and debated selling and criminalizing their customers with law motif floating around. The first I heard of it was albums. at the one day international conference, Who is suits. None of this has worked, every copy-protec- in the Grapevine interview with Gerd Leonardh Obviously, these artists have already es- in Control, held in Reykjavik the day before the tion scheme has been broken and for every file- referenced earlier. The idea is this: Iceland will tablished themselves with the help of the music latest Iceland Airwaves festival kicked off. The sharing network shut down another has replaced become a kind of test market for a new business industry. Not many would have taken notice of Ra- conference was organized by a new government- it. Just last week the largest BitTorrent community model for distributing music. Basically, Internet diohead’s new business model, if not for the fact sponsored office, Icelandic Music Export (IMX), evolving only around music, www.oink.cd, was Service Providers (ISPs) will impose a flat-rate fee that Radiohead is already one of the biggest bands whose role is to promote Icelandic music abroad, shut down by a police action in Britain and the for access to content. This is in compliance with in the universe. But this is in fact good news for to increase the visibility of Icelandic music in the Netherlands. Oink’s webpage now points to a list Gerd’s ideas and one suspects that he has been every band and artist, not just the big ones. The in- international sphere and provide an essential of 55 other BitTorrent sites where music lovers can instrumental in putting the idea forward. Present ternet is an extremely efficient tool for musicians one-stop resource for all interested parties. Key- get their fix. In the United States the Recording at the conference were representatives of at least to market their music. The competition is fierce, note speakers and panel discussion participants Industry of America has been targeting file shar- some of the biggest ISPs in Iceland. Judging from of course, but it has always been that way. There came from various corners of the industry, rang- ers with law suits with no apparent effect or result their comments they did not seem too keen on the are hundreds of thousands of bands on Myspace ing from representatives from international music in sight, except a public relations disaster when idea. Hjálmar Gíslason, Director of Business Devel- alone so it will be hard to stand out. As Einar Örn, businesses – such as Sony BMG, Mute and Play- 12-year-old children face thousands of dollars in opment for ISP Síminn Telecom, commented that former member of the Sugarcubes and co-owner louder – Icelandic digital music online retailer fines for downloading a single Justin Timberlake it would be difficult for ISPs to increase the price of Bad Taste Records put it at the IMX conference: tonlist.is, Síminn Telecom, Icelandic label Bad single. Clearly this battle is lost if recording com- for something users are now getting essentially for “If your songs are shit, then you are fucked”. Taste and daily newspaper Morgunblaðið. In total, panies continue to try these methods on the new free. Something in that comment rings true, but there were 22 speakers at the conference and a society. it could also be argued that people want to pay a So, Who Then is in Control? complete list can be found at IMX’s website, www. fair price for their media consumption. Whether What we have is this: the music industry is losing icelandicmusic.is. Artists and musicians were Copyright Iceland could be a good test market for a flat-rate its stranglehold on the market. There is much less conspicuously absent from the list of speakers but The argument for these kinds of actions has been model remains to be seen. A few considerations incentive for artists to sign with a label. It is pos- at least some attended, although the hefty 20,000 that file sharing of music and other digital content come to mind. For example, would certain ISPs sible to build careers without signing a contract ISK admission fee probably scared a few of the is a copyright infringement, much less than a prof- only provide some content, forcing the customer which will probably not be of much value. Mugi- more frugal artists away. it drain for record companies. It is probably true to pay for multiple subscription models? Would son, one of Iceland’s most popular musicians, that music sharing is, if not illegal, at least a highly my desire to download Guns N’ Roses’ forthcom- recently released his album himself, comment- Music like Water debatable activity in legal terms. But laws aren’t ing album, Chinese Democracy, force me to sub- ing that his debut album, Lonely Mountain, sold The first and most interesting keynote speech set in stone, laws can be amended. Copyright law scribe to the service from Síminn; but if I should 13 thousand copies and his profit from that was of the conference was by Gerd Leonardh, a self- has evolved enormously throughout history, often also want Britney Spears’ latest album, Blackout, 100,000 ISK. Someone somewhere has a fair stack appointed Music and Media Futurist. A highly in response to technological changes, but most would I have to subscribe to Vodafone’s service? of money from those sales, but it is not Mugison. informative interview with Gerd was published in often because of pressure from copyright holders. These matters and others are being dis- The industry is finally acknowledging this, desper- Grapevine issue 14 and I suggest that, if you have For a further discussion of the future of copyright cussed somewhere surely and, as stated before, ately trying to come up with ways of keeping their any interest in the matters discussed here, you law, especially regarding the changes the internet were mentioned briefly at the conference. There cash cow from starving. Consumers are delighted; check that out. Gerd’s speech was titled “Why the has put into motion I refer to Free Culture, the ex- was, however, no formal debate on an Icelandic access to music has never been easier. Flat Rate for Music is our Future - and why the End cellent book by Stanford law professor Lawrence test market and, to my knowledge, none has taken Control has shifted from the record com- of Control is a good thing for Artists and Consum- Lessig, available free from www.lessig.org. place in a public forum. But I wouldn’t be sur- panies to artists, musicians and their fans. These ers” (it is available at his blog http://gerdleonhard. At the IMX conference, the response to prised if in the coming months we see some kind are the groups that benefit most from the changes typepad.com/). Gerd’s ideas, at least from representatives of the of subscription model based on a flat rate from a technology has made to our social fabric. Musi- Gerd’s idea for the future of the music indus- big players, was mixed. A few of them shook their joint venture by ISPs and publishers. cians have a closer relationship with their fans, try is basically this: Music will be everywhere, it heads vigorously throughout his speech, Alison more control over their careers, and music lov- will never be further away from you than three Whenam from AIM UK commented that Gerd was The Middleman ers have greater access to music at a lower cost. clicks on whatever device you have handy, your looking at things from the outside and not from In recent months we have seen big artists take To simplify in the extreme: If you are in one of mobile phone, your computer, your ipod. Every- within, reinforcing the feeling that the industry a different route from the usual in getting their these groups, and not a shark in a suit sitting in one will pay a flat rate fee for access – music will will approach this problem in their own way and music to their fans. Typically an artist signs with an executive chair at a big record company, then feel free, just like tap water feels free, but every- with their own solutions. Alison mentioned that a label, who then publishes the work, distributes you are in control. But, knowing the history of the one will be paying. The business model could a flat-rate fee would call for changes to copyright it and keeps most of the money. It is a harsh truth music industry, that might not be for long. With be something close to the consumer paying one law which would take at least 10 years to imple- that the recording industry must acknowledge power comes responsibility: use it wisely, guard Euro a week for unlimited access to music and ment and the industry simply could not wait that that their PR image isn’t exactly shiny. It is gen- your newfound position of power. Help build a the profit would be split between artists, networks long. In her words the music industry is looking erally considered true that labels and publishers fairer world for artists and music lovers. The re- and publishers. down a cliff, the first to be the victim of this new screw their artists in every way imaginable. This cord companies are expendable. But the cash flow from such a system is just technology but certainly not the last. There is a was possible because artists and musicians had the tip of the iceberg in Gerd’s view. The real mon- simple solution to the copyright problem though: no way of entering the market without the help of Text by Páll Hilmarsson ey would come from by-products such as advertis- simply reduce the barriers the copyright license a record company. Their expertise and their ac- ing, concerts and sales of various paraphernalia. puts on the use of music and media. The Creative cess to funds made them the gatekeepers of the Essentially selling a brand, not a physical product Commons license (www.creativecommons.org) market, carefully regulating the supply of music. like a CD. The business of selling copies of music put forward by Lawrence Lessig is a much more The internet has now turned this on its head. is over; from now on the music industry must sell flexible license for digital media, allowing artists There is, in fact, no need for a band to sign access to its content. To put it simply, companies and publishers more ways of controlling the use with a label. A band can build a strong fan base must monetize on what people are already doing of their work. Creative Commons licenses allow simply by releasing their music online, forging a 18 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Airwaves

Bloc Party. Photo by Emma Svensson Chromeo. Photo by Leó Stefánsson

Retro Stefson. Photo by Árni Torfason Smoosh. Photo by Árni Torfason

Mugison. Photo by Árni Torfason

of Montreal. Photo by Leó Stefánsson Sign. Photo by Emma Svensson Airwaves | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | 19

múm. Photo by Árni Torfason

Steed Lord. Photo by Gúndi Ra Ra Riot. Photo by Emma Svensson

Bonde de Role. Photo by Leó Stefánsson Motion Boys. Photo by Gúndi Seabear. Photo by Skari

The Bronx. Photo by Emma Svensson Loney, Dear. Photo by Skari 20 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Reviews

Art Museum – Thursday: Jenny Wilson intro- dic blues and with Benny Crespo’s Gang she’s an duced her track “Bitter” by quoting its lyric “I integral part of something best described as loud love to complain”; the songwriter shouldn’t have electro rock created by boys (and, of course, one anything to complain about after her stellar set, girl) with their toys and a whole battery of satisfy- tackling torch songs and dance tunes alike with ing cannon shots let off by a drummer who is either her pop-cum-disco-via-lounge aesthetic until the very angry or gloriously talented. It’s probably a crowd was practically eating out of her hands. Id- combination of the two. Ben H. Murray iosyncratic doesn’t even begin to describe Wilson and her band’s hypnotic brand of otherworldly, Organ – Saturday: Saturday’s show was Strigaskór orchestral musings; she is simply to be seen to be nr. 42’s first in nearly a decade and, unsurprisingly, believed. Katie Hasty they drew the biggest crowd. The attention was not unwarranted. Simply put, their songs are astonish- Gaukurinn – Thursday: In terms of sheer white- ing, full of clean lines and taut rhythms. They played knuckle terror, few bands could match the sar- with stunning precision, employing an economy of cophogal bleakness of the Icelandic death metal sound that recalled groups like Wire and Don Ca- band Changer. Their songs were pure harrowing ballero. Notes came in tight, sharp bursts, more like drops into the abyss, pairing jackhammer guitars Morse code than music. Even the few guitar solos with vocals that went from death growl to body-on- were proudly minimalist, favouring single quiver- fire screech. By their set’s end they’d successfully ing tones over dizzying fretwork. J. Edward Keyes managed to clear the club, but their terrifying force was almost matchless. J. Edward Keyes Nasa – Saturday: !!! have been on a roll for a Jenny Wilson. Photo by Rúnar Sigurjónsson while, turning out a very good album earlier this Iðnó – Friday: Part of the magic of Airwaves is year and playing a string of buzzed-over live shows. stumbling upon a gem you’ve never heard before, Tonight, !!! offered all the best parts of being in a and Plants and Animals provided that in spades. dance club ñ plus guitars ñ with a set that touched Airwaves Highlights The Canadian quintet delivered an astonishing set on indie-disco, stomping pseudo-techno, party- of shape-shifting post-rock punctuated by the stun- funk, conga-laden funk, and Daft Punkian funk. All ning “New Kind of Love” which began as a hushed their percussion, keyboard and horn parts seemed Who: Where: When: 3 part harmony and finished with a cathartic cli- perfectly placed, and !!! repeatedly whipped the Everybody Everywhere October 18-20, 2007 max worthy of the Flaming Lips. Don Bartlett crowd into a frenzy. The songs were jammy, but !!! are no wankers ñ the difference between them and Lidó – Friday: Lay Low might not be able to blast say, Phish, is like the difference between Björk and the ice out of the older audience’s Diet Pepsi at will, Celine Dion. Christian Hoard but she is rightly known as the princess of Icelan-

After the previous week’s hectic live music sched- (rightly) to sell them a beer but one thing that be- ule around Reykjavík, having just a pair of bands came immediately obvious during their first few on at Organ seemed almost a waste of time and songs was that they don’t need alcohol to produce space but thankfully at least one group more than an outstanding performance. Mixing some tightly made up for the lack of numbers with some mem- written and sung lyrics, with obvious vocal influ- orable song writing and a performance that belied ences from Alec Ounsworth of Clap Your Hands any festival hangover. Say Yeah and other similarly face-paced, falsetto- However, that band was not the evening’s voiced indie bands, they leapt about in a manner opener, Jezebel. You can’t deny their smiling en- reminiscent of an early performance by The Lib- thusiasm, neatly slotted together songs or careful- ertines but the memory that remained after clos- ly referenced 80’s guitar hooks, but the whole set ing time was of a series of complicated-yet-catchy just had a whiff of naff old eggs that wouldn’t go songs that were performed with gusto. away. With so much going on, from the intro that Like a vast number of new Icelandic bands sounded similar to Michael Jackson’s ‘Beat It’ to Who Knew also threw in a liberal smattering of the slow sleazed out electro with overtones of Daft electronica but, in comparison to the medium’s Punk (particularly on ‘Shockwave’) interspersed overuse in Jezebel’s earlier performance, the key- with some shouty rapping, the whole project just board in ‘Sharpen The Knife’ and the introduc- didn’t quite hold together to produce a credible tion to ‘Wallabe’ serve to add structure and depth live performance and the crowd who weren’t fa- to what are already very good tracks. In Jezebel miliar with their work stood around amused (or the buttons over-ran everything and ran nothing. bemused) by it all. Less, in the case of Who Knew, is definitely more. midi-concerts.pdf 4/11/07 10:55:30 AM Who Knew. Photo by GAS This is a shame as the band has a notable ‘Wallabe’, ‘Mountains’, ‘Pagan Revolution’, and obvious talent for making music if they’re ‘Please Don’t’ and ‘Sharpen The Knife’ are a set of to be judged from the menagerie of styles and songs with genuine longevity - most have enough sounds used, but maybe it should be focused on complexity (listen to ‘Wallabe’s’ pleasingly grad- Better the Devil You Knew… other avenues that don’t mix Beastie Boys-style ual progression from keyboard solo to full-blown white homeboy rapping, 80’s cheeseball electro indie rock or the layers that build up to a glorious and a line in guitar solos that wouldn’t be out of finale on ‘Sharpen The Knife’) and ambition to Who: Where: When: place on the Top Gun soundtrack. Their influ- not prove tiresome after a dozen listens yet they’re Jezebel Organ October 25, 2007 ences might all be from the same decade but simple enough to be exposed as great pieces of Who Knew that doesn’t mean they should be stuck together song writing when performed in the heady man- 20 years later when nobody thought to try it first ner of Who Knew. Who’d have known that when time round - there’s a reason that stone was left they first walked on stage. Ben H. Murray unturned. Who Knew look so young you might refuse

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THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS Reviews | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | 21

CD CD BOOK

Sticky Situation Mugiboogie The Dave Grohl Story Bloodgroup Mugison By Jeff Apter

Seeped in sweaty base synths and velvety vocal overtones, Blood- Mugison’s first studio album since the award winning Mugimama, is Few musicians have enjoyed more commercial success with not group’s Sticky Situation is quick to establish its unrelenting made- This Monkeymusic? has been awaited with some anticipation. His only one, but rather two, different rock bands, than Dave Grohl, for- for-Saturday-night intensity. The album plays all its well-versed- new effort is darker, moodier and considerably heavier than previ- mer drummer of the grunge-outfit Nirvana and current leader for electro cards right, moving seamlessly between video game-esque ous work. Mugison’s distinctive folk-blues sound is still present but, rock n’ rollers Foo Fighters. synth explosions and elusive references to late 90s rock-pop. Yet the on several tracks, it is coupled with a more rocking tone. Mugison Australian Jeff Apter, former editor of the down-under ver- album never slows down enough to indulge in any of its plethora draws from a wide array of influences and different genres, from sion of the Rolling Stone and currently a contributing editor for the of elaborate motifs. Rather than plowing strongly and decisively sweet-sounding melodies like Deep Breathing and The Great Un- Aussie GQ Magazine has written a book on Grohl’s adventure as a through its heap of catchiness towards a lucid moment of its own, rest, where piano and strings create a sombre feeling of sorrow; to teen punk, grunge superstar and a rock n’ roll icon. The book draws the album happily surrenders to it. Its energy, rather than infusing it more traditional blues rock hits like Mugiboogie and Jesus is a Good heavily on previously published material, in particular the works with excitement or power, serves mostly to give it a distinct trying- Name to Moan. For me, the highlights on this record are easily the of Michael Azerrad such as his book on Nirvana, Come as You Are too-hard feel. Much like the hot sweaty club where it belongs, the out and out rocker Two Thumb Suck’n Son of a Boyo, where Mugi- and the very excellent Our Band Could be Your Life: Scenes From album requires an extraordinary amount of energy to follow. VÞ son allows his industrial metal side to run free and the folksy, guitar the American Underground 1981 -1991. Still, there is enough good plucking Mugison on The Pathetic Anthem. Although this record research and interviews with key figures from Grohl’s career to offer does not contain an instant nut-grabber like Monkeymusic’s Murr something more than a magazine profile would. Murr, this album is a more complete and enjoyable effort. SBB The most interesting part of the book deals with Grohl’s youth as a hanger-on in the prolific DC hardcore scene that begat such influential bands as Bad Brains, Minor Threat and to some extent Black Flag (although Black Flag was an LA band by definition, sing- er Henry Rollins came up in DC and remained close to that scene). CD CD With insights from Ian MacKaye, the sparkplug that kept DC firing at the beginning, the book provides a good take on what the atmo- sphere was like. Grohl would go on to drum for the seminal DC hard- core band Scream before latching on with Nirvana in the early ‘90s. After joining Scream as a tender seventeen-year old (He initially told his bandmates he was 23), Grohl toured the US back and forth, liv- ing his life in the typical punk lifestyle, hand-to-mouth at the back of the van or on the floor of a friend of the band. Although far removed from his punk roots, Grohl has always maintained that his early life influenced him greatly in later years. The book adds little to the legacy of Nirvana. Anyone who has had a passing curiosity for the Seattle trio has probably read about most of these events at some point in time, as the written Nirvana anthology is quite extensive. However, the book details the sour re- lationship between Courtney Love and Grohl to some extent, a feud Hold er mold Smokey Bay that is still making headlines to this day, with Love recently going on Megas & Senuþjófarnir Owls of the Swamp record to claim that Kurt Cobain had in fact loathed his energetic drummer. Apter also details contract squabbles between Grohl and In Icelandic music, Megas is an institution. Few, if any, Icelandic art- Owls of the Swamp is Pete Uhlenbruch, a 25 year-old troubador from former Scream manager who sued the drummer after he left the ists have enjoyed such critical acclaim although he will probably Australia who spent six weeks touring Iceland last year, which in- band for Nirvana, while still under contract with Scream. go down in history as a master wordsmith and lyricist, rather than spired his debut record, Smokey Bay (the direct translation of Reyk- The largest section of the book is reserved for Grohl’s current a musician. Hold er mold features material originally written in an javík to English), his personal memory of his trip to Iceland. This is project, Foo Fighters, a band that started as a Grohl solo project August session for this year’s album Frágangur, but with an over- an introspective work, full of haunting lyrics and lo-fi melodies, that while still in Nirvana. Apter gives a thorough recount of the record- abundance of songs, the material was distributed on two albums. gracefully edge their way into the back of your head. Uhlenbruch ing of the first three albums, but later recordings suffer, perhaps for Joining Megas on the two albums is the band Senuþjófarnir, which has a touch for sentimental delivery and touching storylines. I have standing too close to the subject in time. consists of members of the reggae band Hjálmar. As typically with a feeling a few of the ten songs would play well under an extreme- This is a good read for anyone with an interest in contempo- Megas, the poetry draws you in. The music mostly consists of folksy ly dramatic scene on Grey’s Anatomy. As heartfelt and under the rary rock history and the segment on early DC alone makes it worth tracks written for guitar, although the arrangements on the album weather as this CD sounds, it does become quite monotonous and the price. Apter is a skilled writer, although his love for the word are beefed up considerably with the backing of a full band. Megas is repetive in its entirety, as Uhlenbrect never veers from his down- ‘punter’ is extremely tiresome. SBB the kind of musician you either love or hate. If you are not already a tempo strumming. If the sad and lonely guy with the acoustic guitar permanent member of his fan club, this will probably not do much grabs your interest, you will likely enjoy this, but myself, I can only for you, but for any Megas fan, this is a required possession. SBB handle this kind of heartfelt misery two songs at a time. SBB

This exciting new multimedia exhibition tells the story from an island’s dramatic birth from the depths of the Atlantic Ocean through its forty year history to the current day – and beyond, glimpsing the future 120 years hence.

The exhibition explains the Government’s decision to submit an application to UNESCO to designate Surtsey a World Heritage Site.

SURTSEY – GENESIS. EXHIBITION AT THE CULTURE HOUSE

The Culture House - Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11am and 5pm National Centre for Cultural Heritage Hverfi sgata 15, 101 Reykjavik The admission fee grants entry to all exhibitions at the Culture House. Adults ISK 300. Senior citizens ISK 200. Telephone 545 1400 www.thjodmenning.is Students ISK 200. Free entry for children 16 years of age or younger. Admission is free on Wednesdays. 22 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Article

Icelandic folk musicians have spawned international admiration. Photo by Rúnar Sigurjónsson

Folk and Frost

Despite having a capital city that sits a snowball’s Thankfully, Pétur Ben is far from alone in called Steindór Andersen. The resulting recording Lay Low, in particular, has throw away from the North Pole and boasts a popu- propagating this new folk sound around his home- has a suitably religious quality with booming chant- lation smaller than that of the London borough of land. Others, such as Lay Low, a 23-year-old blues- ing accompanied by a gentle ambient backing over achieved widespread rec- Barnet, Iceland has a growing musical and artistic driven female singer songwriter and Lára Runars, six narratives, each one a separate tale from an- culture that would leave many far larger popula- another young Reykjavik-based acoustic artiste cient Iceland. One track was even recorded under ognition around her home tions shivering in its shadow. who’s recorded tracks with Damian Rice at his stu- a bridge by a stream for a more traditional effect It’s therefore unsurprising that the country dio in Ireland, are also taking the lead with endless but, given only a thousand copies of the EP exist, country and America by has been famous for producing immense creative gigs in increasingly prominent venues around the sadly it’s doubtful many will get to hear old meeting talent such as The Sugarcubes – famously cham- world and well-received recorded material. Lay new in such a unique way. combining intricate, blue- pioned by British DJ John Peel in 1987 and featur- Low, in particular, has achieved widespread recog- Like Sigur Rós, Emiliana Torrini is one of ing the multi-Grammy Award nominated Björk nition around her home country and America by Iceland’s more established acts and her hugely sy riffs with a sensational –, the ubiquitous Sigur Rós and the increasingly- combining intricate, bluesy riffs with a sensational popular folk albums, such as the mesmerising renowned Múm, but relatively recent political and voice that sounds like she lights up a dozen Russian Fisherman’s Woman, have helped raise her profile voice that sounds like she social changes affecting the cultural make up of sailor cigarettes for breakfast and then washes the outside of her home country and connect the older this prosperous nation have been pivotal in pro- smoke down with a litre of blossom honey. For her forms of the genre, such as that explored by Sigur lights up a dozen Russian pelling a new folk-inspired movement to the fore- sake I hope she doesn’t follow such a diet but deli- Rós’s rímur project, to the newer material being front of Iceland’s popular music scene. Not many cately simple tracks such as Mojo Love and Please performed by the likes of Pétur Ben, My Summer As sailor cigarettes for break- people outside of the country realise that Iceland Don’t Hate Me are highly reminiscent of the raspy, A Salvation Soldier and Lay Low. Emiliana Torrini only gained independence in 1944, when Danish rootsy blues that inspired Dylan et al yet they have also has another claim to fame - she sang the end fast and then washes the rule was consigned to the history books in favour an endearing, newer quality that’s quite different song to Lord Of The Rings: The Two Towers. You’ll of a constitutional republic system of government from the purer, darker Americana sound. It’s nurs- recognise her ice-pure whispered voice, described smoke down with a litre of - this relatively recent upheaval has left many striv- ery rhyme folk blues, but in the best possible sense, as “a beautiful instrument” in a review at the time, ing to regain and cement a strong cultural identity, and it earned her the best newcomer award at the the moment you hear it (if you know the film) but blossom honey something which often takes many decades to nur- Icelandic Music Awards last year. maybe this moment in her career consigned her to ture and develop. So, just as popular troubadours the more old-fashioned school of Icelandic music. like Bob Dylan, Neil Young, Joan Baez and Joni A Mixture of Old and New Recently some of her work has been criticised for Mitchell helped define American folk revivalist mu- Both Lay Low (real name Lovísa Elísabet Sig- being boring and, when compared with recent ma- sic, leaving their ideals and classic compositions rúnardóttir), Lára Runars and others, such as My terial from the newer artists mentioned, her tales imprinted on a restless generation of people who Summer As A Salvation Soldier and Esja, two other about being a good fisherman’s wife seem a little were looking to the horizon, rather than over their local folk bands, regularly pull in large, enthusiastic too twee and self-satisfied in concept to sit along- shoulders, a similar movement of tradition-inspired crowds at Reykjavik venues such as NASA, Organ side the more forward-looking work of others. folkists are guiding the Icelandic people into a new and the annual Iceland Airwaves festival and have The Icelandic people’s strong, and constant- dawn of international and localised recognition. attracted increasing praise and attention from the ly renewing, sense of self, combined with a huge One of the most influential individuals in Icelandic press for their fresh-sounding folk music pool of talented musicians filling venues and re- this movement is singer-songwriter Pétur Ben - a and widespread credibility. My Summer As A Sal- cord shops around the country with fresh new folk virtuoso guitar player (before going solo he played vation Soldier is one of the most progressive folk music, have made the country home to one of the guitar with Mugison, another successful Icelandic singers and, at the tender age of 21, he has already most forward-thinking folk scenes in the world. folk rock artist) with a voice and song-writing tal- won a best newcomer award at the Icelandic Music The music is instantly accessible and friendly, just ent to match. “I’m sure it has something to do with Awards in 2004. This is even more extraordinary like many of the people who penned the songs be- being a relatively small group of people defining when you find out that he is also in two hardcore ing played in coffee shops around Reykjavik and itself as a nation. I wish we could be as indepen- metal bands and an assortment of other groups, beyond, and proves that this fascinating country dent politically as we are artistically but that’s an- none of which sound remotely like his gentle self- now offers a world of home-grown music beyond other story,” Pétur explains, hinting at the political penned songs which are reminiscent of Joe Cocker that already known to the outside world. However, undertones of the music that won him an album or a slightly sedated Lou Reed. Such versatility is as Pétur Ben confides, it’s not the easiest form of of the year award at this year’s Icelandic Music common and it’s undoubtedly a reflection of both music to unpick: “There is something very unique Awards. Pétur’s music is typical of the type current- the level of musical talent demonstrated by the about the Icelandic indie scene which many have ly dominating the country’s charts, with lyrics and young artists and their refusal to play just one form tried to understand.” Coming from someone who musicianship that have an ethereal quality which of music, thus leaving the door open for endless should know, you’d have to agree with Pétur but, perfectly reflects the Icelandic landscape, flitting cross-genre collaborations and side projects that whilst it might be a little tricky to get to the bot- from dark visions of isolation accompanied by are often folk-orientated. tom of this latest ripple in Iceland’s vibrant culture, thumping acoustic guitar and grand soundscapes, It would, however, be entirely wrong to sug- you’d have to have a heart of ice not to fall in love such as in Wine For My Weakness, the title track gest that traditional music is a new concept in Ice- with the new wave of folk coming from the border of his award-winning album, to delicate strummed land as, like in almost all cultures, generation after of the Arctic Circle. paeans to love, sorrow and happiness such as You generation have entertained each other with folk Woke Me and Alone. He regularly plays alongside songs and music passed from person to person. Text by Ben H. Murray The Sugarcubes drummer, Sigtryggur Baldursson, Sigur Rós, whose members have regularly been and collaborated with members of Sigur Rós at the involved in folk-inspired side projects, recently re- aforementioned awards ceremony - although Ice- vived one such tradition by recording a limited-edi- land is a relatively small place this is still an impres- tion EP of Icelandic Rímur - a chanted form of po- sive endorsement of his talent and the movement etry depicting ancient battles and epic tales from of which he’s a part. Icelandic folklore - with a local fisherman and poet Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | 23

Photos by GAS Destination: Lake Mývatn

There are few reasons, in my opinion, to get out of craters in the world. These oddly shaped and spending too long admiring the strange colours – The mud flats of Ná- bed early. The rare occasion of catching a flight coloured (green, brown, black and yellow) hills varying shades of blue, brown, purple, white and is one of them. And so when I was asked to go on at Skútusdaðir, on the southern edge of the lake, yellow (even fluorescent yellow) – though some maskarð consist of pas- a day trip to Lake Mývatn in the north-east of the were our first glimpse of many strange geological of the group warmed up by engulfing themselves country – a place that after more than a year of formations in the area. in the steam rising from the muddy ground. The tel-coloured steam vents living in Iceland, I still hadn’t visited – I accepted Because of Mývatn’s shallow depths, sun- ground is so warm that the locals bake their bread with little hesitation. light is able to penetrate into the waters, help- by placing the dough mixture in the ground near- and bubbling mud pits With only a day at our disposal, we made ing life to thrive in the area. Laxá, Mývatn’s only by where it cooks in the natural heat. the almost 500 km journey from Reykjavík to the outpouring river, is apparently the best, and also Our final stop was a much needed visit to and were by far the most capital of the north, Akureyri, by plane where we the most expensive (the price can be up to 2,500 the warm waters of the Mývatn Nature Baths, the were met by our friendly guide, Sigurður Óskars- euros/212,000 ISK a day) salmon-fishing spot in North’s answer to Reykjavík’s Blue Lagoon. Much spectacular destination son. From the airport we were driven over the the country. In the warmer months, the region is like the Blue Lagoon, the place consists of steam highlands, stopping occasionally to take in the rich in birdlife. But, at this time of year the waters baths, hotpots and a natural bath pool of bluish on the trip. view of the town below. As we travelled over the are quiet. And, thankfully, the skies are too. Our geothermal water, rich in minerals and silicates. side of the mountain we were greeted with snow guide told us about the thick clouds of midges The difference is that, at least at this time of year, and the reality that we probably hadn’t chosen the (flies), after which the lake is named, which ex- you can potentially have the whole place to your- best day to explore the north. ist during the summer. Sometimes they number so self. We shared the pools with only two others, a But our optimistic guide was quick to assure many, that the road ahead can barely be seen, our far cry from the overcrowded waters of the Blue us that the region simply has different things to of- guide informs us. Predictably, the upside of such Lagoon. Though, on the other hand, the waters fer during the different seasons, and presumably cool temperatures as on that day was the absence were noticeably cooler. in different weather conditions. “It depends on of flies and other insects. All in all, our extensive nine-hour guided how you want to experience the area,” he told us. Standing in the hypothermia-inducing trip of the Mývatn area was a great way to spend What he meant was that although we may have winds for 20 minutes made us appreciate our some time in this part of the country. Especially missed the bright, sunny weather and the abun- lunch of warm cauliflower soup at the local hotel knowing that it was just that – a daytrip where you dant birdlife characteristic of the summer, and the all the more. It was then onto Dimmuborgir with can experience such varied landscape over such autumn colours, visiting in the winter also has its its forest of rock pillars and crags. The area was short distances. I expected the lake itself to be the charms – namely the absence of the dozens of tour created as a result of the same volcanic eruption most spectacular site of the trip, but the diverse buses that must compete for parking spots during which formed Mývatn. Although legend has it that and wonderful geological sights that surround the warmer seasons. The empty roads, our guide the rock formations are in fact a drunken party of Mývatn are the highlights which, in many people’s told us, meant that we would have time to visit ad- trolls which were turned to stone by the morning minds, earn Mývatn the title of being the most ditional places along the way, plus we would be sunlight. The guide was keen to point out the two beautiful area in the country. able to enjoy them without the crowds. In fact, our “trolls” embracing. small group of five, plus the guide and driver, did Later we stopped at the cave of Grjótagjá Text by Zoë Robert not run into a single other person along the way. where locals and tourists alike have been known After taking a short tour of Goðafoss, ‘Waterfall of to bathe in the 35-40ºC waters, and at Víti or ‘Hell’ the Gods,’ and after an hour on the road, we ar- crater-lake. The bright blue water against the deep, rived at Lake Mývatn. Located on the Mid-Atlantic brown crater walls are yet another example of the ridge, the 37 km² lake was created more than 2000 stunning geological sites in the area. On the way TRIP PROVIDED BY: years ago by a large volcanic eruption. When the to Námaskarð, the highlight of the day, we passed glowing lava flowed into the lake (what is now the Krafla Geothermal Power Plant, where bore Mývatn), the water-logged sediment got trapped holes as deep as 3000 metres have been drilled in underneath it. Steam and gas explosions tore the order to harness the natural energy below. lava into small pieces, creating groups of what are The mud flats of Námaskarð consist of known as pseudo craters, which characterise the pastel-coloured steam vents and bubbling mud shoreline and islands of the lake. The area is a pro- pits and were by far the most spectacular destina- www.airiceland.is tected conservation site and has the most pseudo tion on the trip. The icy winds prevented us from 24 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Places

Reykjavík Then & Now

In the 1940s... the outskirts of the city were located just about where Kringlan shopping mall stands today. Photo by Ólafur Magnússon

In 2007... the outskirts of the city stretch out beyond the mountains and across the sea. Photo by GAS

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Birgir Andrésson (1955-2007)

One of Iceland’s most respected visual artists, Birgir Andrésson, died this Oc- tober 24 at 52 years old. Born in the Westmann Islands in 1955, Andrésson went on to study visu- al arts at the Icelandic Academy of the Arts and then received a graduate de- gree from the Jan Van Eyck Akademie in Maastricht in Holland. The artists spent much of his child- hood in a home for the blind in Ham- rahlíð with his father and stepmother who were both blind. Andrésson was especially preoccupied in his work with spoken language, and the com- munication of visual perception, which he explored through text portraits, drawings, wall installations and three- dimensional constructions. This fall, Andrésson was nominat- ed for the Icelandic Visual Arts Awards for the retrospective exhibition of his work at the National Gallery. Andrésson’s final exhibition, “Eter- nal Eruption” (in collaboration with Ragna Róbertsdóttir) opened in Safn in October and will be on display until November 11.

United we Stand by Birgir Andrésson

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FAROE ISLANDS

WESTMAN ISLANDS Get your action-packed day tour brochure

/SIA.IS/ICE 34752 04/07 airiceland.is at hotels, airports or any travel agent. / tel. 570 3030 ÍSLENSKA Places | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | 27

My Spot: Kaffitár

“Kaffitár in Bankastræti is my place for the first two working hours each morn- ing. Delicious coffe, cosy atmosphere, regular customers and curious tourists enjoying the moment.”

Þorgrímur Þráinsson is a former national team football player and a best-selling author. His self help book for men, How to Make Your Wife Happy will be published in the coming weeks.

Fly and discover

NUUK GRÍMSEY Greenland

Air Iceland destinations ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

EGILSSTAÐIR

NERLERIT INAAT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK

FAROE ISLANDS

WESTMAN ISLANDS Get your action-packed day tour brochure

/SIA.IS/ICE 34752 04/07 airiceland.is at hotels, airports or any travel agent. / tel. 570 3030 ÍSLENSKA 28 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Article

This page: Askja Lake; Opposite page: Herðubreið. Photos by Fabrizio Frascaroli

Across the Country in 40 Days

Askja. For a long time, since my first visit in 2001, to be unwise: to trust their common sense seems sition occurred? Is it the shape of the sky? Can it With sheep I get to share that little and harsh name evoked the mightiest safe. With sheep I get to share not only the paths, change in the turn of a handful of kilometres? Is images of dread and desolation in my head, of but also the torment of the midges. They launch it the colour of the light? Or the absence of any- not only the paths, but unspeakable mysteries and vanished German ex- their assault as the sun pierces the last clouds and thing but myself and my footsteps, perhaps? I am plorers. For a long time, I associated Ódáðahraun the air becomes hot and stuffy – they won’t desist baffled. But in spite of all riddles – or, more likely, also the torment of the - the stretch of lava, sand and nothingness that en- till nightfall. I end up swallowing a few, spitting out because of them – I’m enthralled. While Reyk- velops an endless area of 6,000 km2 in its deadly some others, but it is a trial for the nerves. I try to re- jahlíð, way on the horizon, still beckons me with midges. They launch embrace – with the wasteland par excellence. A mind myself of the great prophets of non-violence: promises of comfort and safety, the Highlands, as place of twisted rock, chocked earth and over- St. Francis of Assisi, Mahatma Gandhi, the Dalai ever before, have kicked in. their assault as the sun whelming devastation, capable of shaking in a few Lama… It does not work, and before long I am I walk far from the jeep track, trying to keep miles the most light-hearted assumptions about turned upside down by images and impressions of my course as straight as possible due south. Bar- pierces the last clouds the cuteness of life, nature, and everything: the total warfare. Fighting this fight is pointless, and I ren, sandy ground and overgrown areas alternate perfect school-trip for those (fortunately, I believe, patiently let my reservoir of tolerance be eroded in a seemingly regular pattern. I pass a patch of and the air becomes hot not many) considering a career in nihilistic philos- away. vegetation painted in the most unlikely crimson ophy. Not surprisingly, for a long time, I anticipated The last farm on my way lies cheerful under red a flower ever exhibited. It is another day of and stuffy – they won’t the traverse of that desert with a mixed feeling of the sun, by Grænavatn and a jeep track. There is heat, bright sky, and limitless visibility. The uni- reverential fear and ultimate challenge. a pleasant barbecue smell in the air, but nobody form flatness that lies ahead gets broken finally by desist till nightfall. It is July 14; the weather is slowly opening up around inviting me to join the feast. When I set up the imposing shapes looming in the deep distance, and becoming fair. As I put more and more kilome- camp along the river Kraká, it is already past ten like Gods or wardens waiting in a watchful sleep. I tres between the village of Reykjahlíð and myself, and mist has descended onto the land. can see Trölladyngja shaped like a shield, and the the Mývatn lowlands exhibit their most celebrated ice of Dyngjujökull behind it, glittering white. And, sights. I stroll along the rim of the great Hverfell Entering the Highlands shortly after, the Dyngjufjöll mountains encircling crater, where visitors mark their passage in stones Where do the Highlands begin? What gives them the craters and chasms of Askja appear too, mus- and pebbles. I duck underneath the lava arches their character? What distinguishes them so ineffa- cular and compact like a fist on the land, peremp- and alcoves of Dimmuborgir. Some German tour- bly but still so neatly from the rest of the emerged tory as a statement. ist thinks that my backpack is too bulky and that lands? I have passed no border, reached no land- It is already after eight with a sense of twilight hikers are all insane. The last drizzles of the day mark, gained no altitude. And yet, I realize that the in the air, when the lava of Ódáðahraun eventually make the cigarettes wet in my fingers. quality of the experience, from a certain point on, begins. Great, rounded slabs of volcanic rock are I leave Dimmuborgir behind along narrow has radically mutated – sweetly, smoothly, and yet deposited on the earth, carved and smoothed in and tortuous sheep trails. The lava layer is cracked firmly. The awareness of this difference falls on me an almost orderly fashion, like a pavement of stone and broken, but I believe sheep are just too fearful like an epiphany. But why and how has the tran- laid down by hands larger and older than those of

Energy for life through forces of nature

www.bluelagoon.com Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | 29

– Adventures of the Lonesome Traveller, Leg 3 men. I follow my own shadow, skewed by the de- every glance – an aimless longing without focus been quite a dull affair until now. Partly because Ferðafélag Íslands has undeniably done a clining sunbeams, across this cyclopean platform, and without object, hopelessly amplified and re- that whole sense of challenge and inaccessibility great job at Drekagil. They expanded the hut, in- and I am driven to reckon that, in its minimal and verberated by the unlimited vastness around, by that I had built up over years of waiting has been stalled running water, improved all the facilities essential simplicity, the whole sight is among the the terse light that is dyed orange as the sunset ap- exposed as absolutely ungrounded: I haven’t yet – and still with due care for the environment. Basi- most intense and inspiring ones that my waking proaches. met a single obstacle or difficulty on the way. Even cally, they’ve laid down the ground for making one eyes ever seized. The Dyngjufell hut is welcoming, properly water – scarce, but still sufficient – has not present- of the most remarkable locations in the country I reach the hut of Botni (erected and man- tended, and free of guests. Although the weather is ed a problem. And in part because I found the last accessible and enjoyable to the wider public. In aged by Ferðafélag Íslands as a support to the trav- warm and dry, I am glad to take a place inside: it is days’ landscape to be rather flat and monotonous fact, the place is swarming with people. Different ellers on the Askja trail) after walking a couple of my first time sleeping indoors since I left Reykjavik. for the most. Today, however, offers a different per- groups are sleeping at Drekagil, but the members kilometres on the track, along pinnacles of lava During the night, the sky becomes saturated with spective. of some British speleological club definitely stand and a last oasis of clear water. There is a small multiple colours. It is a jaw-dropping midnight sun, A narrow path immediately starts climbing out as the most noteworthy. “We spend several crowd around: an Icelandic guided tour. Some almost ridiculous in its chromatic vividness, like up, across barren plateaus and slopes lashed by weeks in Askja every now and then, looking for well-meaning woman asks me why on earth I am some expressionist painting. The gorge nearby is the winds. The inexorable action of erosion has and mapping lava caves,” they proudly explain. I travelling alone – she finds it so boring, you know. reflecting violet shades. I generally try not to over- carved the surroundings into the grim and spectral don’t know what to think of their hobby, but must I reply that most often I am bored among people. romanticize nature and its workings, to take it at shapes of a mosaic desert. At around 1,000 m the admit that they are an excellent crowd, coherently Social interactions for the night practically end surface level, but for what it is. Tonight, however, snowfields begin. At 1,300 m Jónskarð is reached embodying a genuine conception of mountaineer- there. I cannot help to sit there in awe and contempla- – the pass that, like a breach in an impenetrable ing made of guiltless nicotinism, heavy alcohol tion, intimately glad to be alone, out in the wild. I wall, leads the way into Askja. And the sight from consumption, and coffee cups rinsed with dirty Dyngjufell cannot help but look around and find it beautiful. up there, in clear weather, hits with such strength it fingers. The next day I walk across ceaseless lava and Poignantly beautiful. blows you away. Because Askja is like a sanctuary, The mounds before the campsite are a per- black sand to the next hut, at the foot of Dyngju- erected in the womb of the mountains, embedded fect vantage point for appreciating another im- fell. Stating that the sort of experience intrinsically Askja in the foundations of the earth. Even the sky seems maculate twilight – the silhouette of Herðubreið offered by the Highlands is different and unique It is the fourth and final day on my way to Askja. I to get lost and absorbed in the depths of that lake. is imprinted in the distance, crowned with flocks compared to anything else is a judgement of inten- inaugurate the morning by falling down the steps I arrive at the base camp at Drekagil late in of gentle clouds. It’d be a unique spectacle under sity, not of value. It is to say that all sensations – right outside the cabin. I clumsily land on my knees the evening. Herðubreið – the celebrated Queen any circumstances and sharing it with a few occa- inebriation as much as poignancy, liberty as much and am thankful that nobody is around to see and of Icelandic mountains – has been towering above sional companions and a bottle of whiskey does as anguish – appear qualitatively different here, laugh at the feat. Besides the accident, a couple of the track for the last kilometres. My dominant not make it any worse. In a couple of days I’ll be neater and deeper, as if you were staring at them in kilometres into the mountains are already enough thought, however, is that all the walking on lava walking further, still deeper into the country’s inte- their nudity, without veils in between. My last two to realize that today is going to redeem my previ- I’ve endured these days should be enough for the rior. days, for example, have been pervaded by a sense ous impressions of the whole walk. Except for a rest of the summer – to say that I am sick of it is an of melancholy subtended to every movement and few utterly memorable moments, in fact, it has understatement. Text by Fabrizio Frascaroli

Lárus & Lárus You know what your You are too indecisive biggest problem is?

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ALWAYS Ign\\kV\ViV&*!+i][addgÆ&%&GZn`_Vk†`ÆIZa#*+(&,.%Æe]didbjhZjb5gZn`_Vk^`#^hÆlll#e]didbjhZjb#^h NICE DeZc^c\]djgh&'¶&.bdc¶[g^!&(¶&,lZZ`ZcYhÆ69B>HH>DC;G:: 30 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 17 2007 | Parting Shot

With shorter days come longer shadows. Photo by GAS

Classifieds Classified ads are free for individuals! If you want to place a classified ad, email [email protected]

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Services Swimming pools: weekdays 06:30- Bus Terminal Useful Information Borgartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, 22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 although www.bhm.is Useful Numbers some may be open an hour longer. BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Where to learn Icelandic as a Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, The State owned ÁTVR liquor Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is foreign language www.efling.is Emergency number: 112 stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat The Commercial Workers’ Union, Police: 569 9000 11-18. Samferda.net Icelandic on the Internet, Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is Medical help: 1770 Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri www.vefskoli.is Union of Public Servants, Gret- Dental emergency: 575 0505 09-16. A reasonable choice for the budget Mímir Continuing Education, tisgata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is AA: 551 2010 traveller. You log on to the website Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is Information: 118 Laundry Service www.samferda.net, choose your Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, Useful Websites Telegrams: 146 destination and hopefully find a travel Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, buddy to share the cost. Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, www.visitreykjavik.is (The official Tax Free Refund Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is tourist website of Reykjavík) Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Cultural Centres and The Icelandic College of Engi- www.gayice.is (Information about Iceland Refund, Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Tourist Offices neering and Technology, Höfða- the gay scene in Iceland) Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 bakki 9, www.fjolmenningarsetur.is www.icelandrefund.com The Intercultural Centre Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is (The Multicultural Centre) Getting Around The Intercultural Centre throws oc- Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, www.hostel.is Post Office casional cultural events and confer- Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, (Hostel International in Iceland) Public transport ences but its main purpose is to be an www.ir.is www.vinnumalastofnun.is Post offices are located around the information and counselling centre The University of Iceland – De- (Public employment services) city as well as in the countryside. The only public transport system in and serve as an advocate for the rights partment of Continuing Education, www.gulalinan.is (The yellow The downtown post office is at Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run of immigrants in Iceland. Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, pages) Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and every 20 minutes and price per fare is Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 www.endurmenntun.is www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) info on opening hours visit www. 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- www.ahus.is www.ja.is posturinn.is. Stamps are also sold in dren. Complete route map at: www. Icelandic Travel Market Religious movements (Icelandic telephone directory) bookstores, gas stations, some grocery bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, stores and tourist shops. Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- www.kleif.is The national church in Iceland is the Where to get … days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends Information on day tours, accommoda- Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses Embassies and Consulates tions, car rental and everything else are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 Work and residence permit: The Rent a bike you need to know when travelling in in churches all around the capital. Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð United States, Laufásvegur 21, Iceland. Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. Tel: 562 9100 Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, Iceland Visitor every last Saturday each month, Insurance and benefits: The State United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, starting at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Tel: 550 5100 HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, www.icelandvisitor.com Church also has masses in English and 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is Russia, Garðastræti 33, Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is A travel agency offering travelling Polish. Icelandic citizenship: Unless you Tel: 551 5156 Tourist Information Centre, package trips and custom-made tours Other religious movements in Reyk- come from a Nordic country, foreign China, Víðimelur 29, Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, as well as car rental, day tours and javík are for example: citizens have to have had an unre- Tel: 552 6751 www.visitreykjavik.is accommodations for visitors. The Muslim Association of Ice- stricted residence permit in Iceland for Tourist Information Centre land, Ármúli 38 at least seven years in order to get an For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Taxi Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 Icelandic citizenship although some Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- www.visitreykjavik.is Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 exceptions exist to that general rule. sions/icelandic-missions/ Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, Offers information for tourists as well The Church of Evangelism, Applications are at the Ministry of Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 as providing internet access, book- Hlíðasmári 9 Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Internet Access BSR, Tel: 561 0000 ing service, a phone centre, money The Icelandic Buddhist Move- Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, For disabled travellers: exchange service, tax refund and ment, Víghólastígur 21 www.domsmalaraduneyti.is Most coffeehouses have wireless Reykjavík Group Travel Service, selling the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, Unemployment benefits: Director- Internet access. Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. Reykjavík Tourist Card gives admis- Fríkirkjuvegur 5 ate of Labour, Public Employment Computers with Internet connections randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ sion to city busses, various museums, Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, are available at: travel_service/ Reykjavík swimming pools, The Family Roman Catholic Church, www.vinnumalastofnun.is Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Park and Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture Hávallagata 14 Icelandic social security number Tjarnargata 11 Car rentals House and the National and University Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- (kennitala): National Register, Bor- BSÍ Bus Terminal, Library. Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, The Icelandic Tourist Board Jehovah’s Witnesses, www.hagstofa.is Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Tel: 554 6040 Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Sogavegur 71 Driver’s license: Those who have a The Reykjavík City Library, ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 www.visiticeland.com Seventh-Day Adventists, foreign license don’t need an Icelandic Tryggvagata 15 Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 All information needed before travel- Suðurhlíð 36 one for the first six months. After that The National and University Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, ling in Iceland. Zen Buddhism in Iceland, time you have one month to apply for Library, Arngrímsgata 3 Tel: 565 3800 Goethe Institute Reykjavíkurvegur 31 an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- Tourist Information Centre, A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, Independent Church, tions are at police stations. Aðalstræti 2 Tel: 587 5544 www.goethe.de/island Háteigsvegur 101 Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur Icelandic Travel Market, Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, A cultural institute that offers movie The Russian Orthodox Church in 166, Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is Bankastræti 2 Tel: 565 3800 screenings, lectures and German Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 Rent subsidies: Social Service Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, language courses. The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 Office, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 Opening hours Tel: 577 6050 Nordic House www.felagsthjonustan.is Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 522 4400 Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, Trade Unions Bars and clubs: According to regu- www.nordice.is lations bars may be open until 01:00 Airlines The Nordic cultural centre organises The Icelandic Federation of on weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. various cultural events, conferences Labour, Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, and exhibitions. www.asi.is closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also The Federation of State and Mu- and Smáralind as well as most super- Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, offer brochures, maps and information nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, markets and tourist shops have longer www.eyjaflug.is for travellers. Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is opening hours. The Association of Academics,

Don’t miss Kisan when in downtown Reykjavík. A truly unique Do you know your pension fund rights? concept store • Are you obliged to pay into a pension fund? carrying world known brands as well • What do your pension rights entail? as local delights like the quality • Why is your pension payment taxed? sweaters from Farmers Market – • What benefits do you gain by paying into a pension fund? only place in downtown. The answers to these questions and many more can be accessed at www.gottadvita.is Annick Goutal, Bonpoint, Farmers Market, Orla Kiely, Sonia Rykiel, Laugavegi 7 • 101 Reykjavík Jamin Puech, Petit Bateau, Steiff ... Sími 561 6262 • www.kisan.is The Icelandic Pension Funds Association grapevine.is

ISSUE SEVENTEEN: NOVEMBER 02 - DECEMBER 06 YOUR FREE COPY

Stuffed with stuff

For some the pictures are considered cute, despite the fact they are tainted by perverted (anti) “no- ble savage” imagery that recalls Kipling’s famous poem, The White Man’s Burden. Marvin Lee Dupree discusses the re-issue of a children’s book. Page 8

The images so innocently framed in this book were specifically designed to de- humanize and mock black people for over a hundred years. Gabriele Guðbjartsson also has a few choice words on the subject. Page 8

The business of selling copies of music is over; from now on the music in- dustry must sell access to its content. Páll Hilmarsson investigates the future of music. Page 16

Some well-meaning wom- an asks me why on earth I am travelling alone – she finds it so boring, you know. I reply that most often I am bored among people. Social interactions for the night practically end there. The Lonely Traveler is a people person. Page 44

“The fancy arty people from New York sat at their tables, eating and talking snobby about the exhibi- tion. In the meantime we climbed into the air and built a huge sculpture above their heads.” MOMS is back at it. Page B14