SFBI! from Spring Happy What’S Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005

Home , Dough conditioner, Laminated dough

Happy Spring from SFBI! from Spring Happy What’s Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005

lamination: layers beyond imagination

by Jeffrey Yankellow - Baking & Pastry Instructor

South San Francisco, CA 94080 CA Francisco, San South

480 Grandview Drive Grandview 480 ften the difference between a good crois- Assuming the rest of the process is done properly, the better the San Francisco Baking Institute Baking Francisco San sant and a great croissant lies in the lamination, the better the pastry. Lamination is not difficult, but, just Odetails. A great artisan croissant has the as with any other part of the baking process, it is attention to detail flavors and aromas of long fermentation; smells that makes the difference. Ideal flakiness is created when many layers

and tastes of high quality butter; and has a deep of dough are separated by thin layers of fat. The fat creates lightness

Permit No. 855 No. Permit golden brown color. And, most importantly, a because the water in the fat creates steam, which helps “lift” the layers.

San Francisco, CA Francisco, San great croissant is light and flaky. The thin deli- For un-yeasted laminated dough, such as puff pastry, steam is the sole

PAID cate crust should be in balance with the moist, source of leavening. U.S. POSTAGE U.S. Jeffrey Yankellow honeycomb interior. The weight should be fairly

Baking & Pastry Instructor PRSRT STD PRSRT light relative to the volume, and the layers of dough What a great idea! should be clearly visible along the rolled edges of There is no concrete evidence of when lamination became a standard the pastry. There are many factors that lead to the perfect croissant, bakery process. One of the most well-known laminated pastries, the starting with the choice of ingredients, mixing methods and fer- croissant, wasn’t originally made from a laminated dough. It origi- nated in Austria, but was not laminated until the 1920’s by French San Francisco Baking Institute mentation schedule. But the defining moment is often the one that pastry chefs looking to improve the quality. SFBI INSTRUCTORS Baking and Pastry Arts School for Professionals & Enthusiasts takes the most effort: the process of lamination. 480 Grandview Drive What is lamination? Lamination can be described as the process of It is also interesting to note that Western civilizations are not alone South San Francisco, CA 94080 layering fat and dough through a series of folds, to achieve a flaky in using lamination for pastry. One of the fundamental Chinese pastry phone 650.589.5784 fax 650.589.5729 structure and increased volume. The result is a light, flaky pastry doughs is a flaky pastry that uses lard or oil and a similar technique www.sfbi.com that is hard to match in terms of pure, simple goodness. Any type to accomplish the same goal of layering dough and fat to create a of dough can be laminated, but the most common and familiar are crisp and delicate encasement for a sweet or savory filling. croissant, Danish, and puff pastry. Brioche is joining that list but is Where to start often overlooked for its more traditional form. The best place to start to explain lamination is to establish some Jeffrey Yankellow Brian Wood standard principles. Laminated dough can be yeasted or non-yeasted, Baking & Pastry Baking & Pastry Instructor Instructor “The fine arts are five in number, namely: but the fundamentals are the same for both. Examples of the yeasted are croissant and Danish. Puff pastry is the most familiar form of ur talented instructors are dedicated painting, sculpture, WHAT’S RISING THIS SEASON ... non-yeasted. to providing a comprehensive learn- poetry, music, and ing experience that combines the O ● lamination: layers beyond imagination architecture, the Fermentation value of hands-on training with the equally It is important to note that for yeasted dough, good lamination will important experience of individual baking ● 2005 course calendar principal branch not replace the benefits of long fermentation. Bakers must start with creativity. Our class sizes are deliberately smaller of the latter a well-fermented dough that has had an extended first fermentation than most other culinary schools, so that we can ● recipe of the season: croissant with poolish or been made using a preferment. For convenience, try mixing a provide you with better opportunities for interac- being pastry.” straight dough and allowing it to ferment in the refrigerator over- tion with your instructor and fellow students. ● special offer on proofing baskets Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin night. This allows the fermentation to happen without the baker (1755-1826) having to wait during a shift. ● baker’s tip and more! continued on page 3 lamination, 2005 course schedule, seasonal recipe, baker’s tip, What’s Rising is designed and edited by Jennifer Donahue Marketing Communications what’s inside: special offer on proofing baskets and more ... www.jenniferdonahue.com 1 from michel: recipe of the season: croissant with poolish about us: the ethics of “poaching” �� sfbi Michel Suas, Founder/President �� ince 1996, the San “poacher” targeted Oftentimes, I receive calls for a baker’s �� Francisco Baking SFBI. Our head position opening and I know a lot of baker �� instructor, Didier “assistants” or “head bakers” who would fit �� A �� Institute (SFBI) has Rosada, got an offer he the job. However, I do not say anything S �� trained hundreds of profes- could not turn down, and, because I know that most bakeries, especially I must say, I would have smaller ones, depend on key staff members, �� sional and aspiring bakers taken the position, too. who are a big part of their operation, and �� Michel Suas �� Reading these lines, I do not necessarily have the resources and from all over the world. We �� am sure some of you will structure to immediately or effectively �� have acted as the unofficial think, “I should have offered Didier a job.” replace someone. f you enjoy a great croissant, try this �� However, you did not. I want to thank you training site for several �� A more beneficial exchange would help to variation with a poolish. Most bakers �� for it! �� award-winning Baking USA both promote good workers and provide Iuse a poolish for their baguette, and �� it works equally as well to produce an �� You know how much SFBI brings to the goals to entry-level bakers to show them �� Teams and hosted a variety irresistible croissant dough. Don’t stop baking industry by giving support to both how far they can advance. The next time �� smaller bakeries and larger ones. Besides, you, as a owner or chef, see an ad that could with the croissant; try using it for rum �� of international groups—from �� you know that taking a key staff member benefit one of your employees, share the raisin rolls or chocolate praline rolls, too! �� countries including Russia, from a small organization like SFBI could be information. Show that you are supporting �� China and Japan—interested viewed as unfair. Especially when flashing all their skills and hard work and education in the big dollar signs that SFBI cannot afford. the baking industry. in bringing artisan baking However, rest assured that the San Francisco Furthermore, if your employees show back to their homelands. Baking Institute is not in difficulty; we have potential, send them to seminars or similar SFBI is recognized within talented people in place. Our mission is still educational classes to polish their skills and “Blues is to jazz what yeast is to bread. Without it, it’s flat.” the same as it was at our inception. Our better themselves. They will be ready to take the baking industry as a place philosophy remains the same, too: independent, on new challenges within your workplace. Carmen McRae, Jazz vocalist and pianist (1920-1994) where artisan baking is open doors and commitment to education at any cost - raising the bar constantly by All that said, I do wish Didier good luck in respected, appreciated and listening to your needs. We have lots of his new endeavor. We support his success. I know we will see him again at the San celebrated. We are passionate exciting new ideas and commitments for baker’s tip: making the baker’s life easier 2005 and beyond. Francisco Baking Institute for visits and about sharing our knowledge various projects. He is addicted to us. by Jeffrey Yankellow, Baking & Pastry Instructor I would like to talk a little bit about “poach- --Michel Suas and enthusiasm with students ing.” Everyone can be a victim of it by a and clients in an effort to chef/owner or recruiter, who decides to eciding to own or even In a bakery that makes croissants, Danish, bear claws, go through the back door to tempt away career just work in a bakery has cinnamon rolls, sticky buns, and a variety of sweet raise the level of the craft. another company’s employees. I must say Dtraditionally destined the rolls, all can be made with croissant. that it is something I never saw in France opportunity baker to a life of long hours in the while working in restaurants or bakeries. middle of the night. Motivated by Unlike the simple croissant, these other products First of all, if an owner or chef needed the desire to have a friendlier sched- have fillings and glazes which generally have more Are you an experienced baking & pastry Jeffrey Yankellow someone they would call other chef/owners ule and workload, techniques such of an impact on the consumer’s buying decision instructor looking for an exciting new to find out if they had a person available to as retarding and freezing are used than whether or not the Danish is made from a true opportunity? SFBI is now hiring! promote. In addition, if a chef/owner had more and more. One way to lighten the load in the Danish dough. an employee who had reached a high level bakery, especially in smaller operations with limited Please forward your resume to: You can even add a small percentage of eggs to the of competency and they did not have a employees, is to cross utilize the staple preparations. San Francisco Baking Institute croissant to give it more body and richness. It will position open for such a skilled worker, they Croissant dough is a perfect example of how this 480 Grandview Drive still be suitable for croissants and work great for would assist him finding a place worth his works. It is a classic product that, in its best forms, South San Francisco, CA 94080 everything else. If it tastes great the customer may talents, opening doors for him to improve reveals subtle fermentation, a honeycomb interior, even like it better and the baker gets to save himself and evolve in his field. pure butter flavor, and a light flaky texture. Sounds Or email Michel Suas at: good right? So why not use the same dough for a lot of work! [email protected] more than just croissants?

2 11 farewell: from didier lamination: layers beyond imagination continued from page 1 The flavors and dough characteristics are For the yeasted forms of laminated dough he time has come from and consulting. equal to when using a preferment. As I will there are two schools of thought. Because me to move on to the explain later, it is best to work with the fermentation is going to be a factor in build- I know SFBI is in good hands with Jeff and Tnext chapter in my life. dough cold during the lamination process. ing strength in the dough, the dough should Brian. The standards of quality and the mission I have been given the perfect never be taken beyond the improved mix instilled by Michel will remain the same. I am opportunity to grow as an indi- If a preferment will be used, with or with- stage or medium gluten development. If sure I will cross paths with many of you in the vidual and as a baker in a new out fermenting the dough in the refrigerator the dough is taken to full development the future. I will be involved with SFBI for classes Didier Rosada environment. overnight, the choice of preferment is up to dough may have an excess of strength and Head Instructor and consulting. I can be contacted at the same the baker. Traditionally, sponge is used for elasticity that will create challenges during I am joining Uptown Bakers email address: [email protected] sweet doughs, as the flavor and strength it the shaping stage. Intensive mixing may also in Washington, D.C. as Vice President of provides is a good match. cause an excess of volume during the bak- Operations. This position will advance my Thank you for all the good times we ing, resulting in a finished texture that lacks skills on the operational side of the bakery have had, and will continue to have in the A poolish by itself or a poolish combined substance and body. business and also will allow me to continue future! with another preferment is a great way to -- Didier with my other passions, including teaching increase the extensibility sometimes created Some bakers only mix their croissant and by stronger flours during the folding process. Danish in first speed until good incorpo- No matter which technique is used, remem- ration is achieved. The dough is given a ber that the fermentation of the dough is as long first fermentation and the strength of important as the lamination. the dough is achieved through the folding Although often considered “sweet dough”, process. By not mixing the dough too much, Ingredient selection croissants and Danish actually contain a extensibility is not sacrificed. There is also Fat choice used for lamination will be moderate amount of sugar. White granulated “Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread very little oxidation and great flavor due discussed later in this article. At this point, sugar is typically the sweetener of choice, to the short mixing. The result in the baked with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” it is important to understand the other main but brown sugar is an easy way to create a pastry is smaller volume and a slightly heavier, James Beard (1903-1985) ingredients used in lamination, the most new flavor profile for any laminated dough. important being the flour. Think of laminated but acceptable, texture. The overall appear- dough like bread. The goal is to create a If the laminated dough is yeasted, any form ance may not look as sharp, but still retains dough with sufficient fermentation tolerance of yeast may be used in the right propor- generally nice visual and eating qualities. tion. Because of the levels of sugar and fat that provides a good balance of elasticity and The other route to take is to mix the dough in these doughs it is necessary to use higher help a student: buy a proofing basket! extensibility. The best choice is to use an to a medium stage of gluten development, amounts of sugar than are typically used in artisan-style bread flour made from hard or the improved mix. This creates dough lean dough. If the sugar is above 12% based winter wheat with a protein level between with more strength out of the mixer, allowing hanks to a donation from Trader on the weight of the total flour, osmotoler- 10.5 and 12%. The same flour used for the for reduced fermentation time. Fermentation Joe’s, SFBI is happy to offer a line Rattan banneton baskets ant yeast may be a good choice to keep the All proceeds go to bread in the bakery should be perfect. flavors and benefits can still be achieved by of high-quality proofing baskets lined with linen: proofing process moving at a faster rate. T fermenting over a 12-18 hour period in the as a fund-raiser for our new Scholarship the non-profit Depending on the type of pastry, milk may Mixing refrigerator or by using preferments. If a good Organization. All proceeds from the sales Sizes: or may not be used. Typically, croissant The first step of the baking process that affects quality artisan flour is used, there still won’t of these baskets will go directly to our non- San Francisco is made with a blend of milk and water. 8” Diameter - 4-1/4” H: TRA-B8 the lamination is the mixing of the dough. In be any problems with extensibility, and if there profit scholarship organization, which helps Danish usually is made with all milk. Puff Baking Scholarship Dough Weight: 1 to 1.5 lbs. the category of non-yeasted dough there are is a problem with a certain flour, the right economically challenged students with their pastries are generally made with all water, Price: $8.00 each generally two levels of development. For yeasted preferment can correct it. baking education tuition at SFBI. Organization. but certain varieties contain some white dough, there are wide-ranging opinions and 10” Diameter - 4-3/4” H: TRA-B10 wine. Whole milk is the best choice for flavor possibilities. For traditional, inverted, and blitz The finished pastry will have slightly more Your purchase will help a student who is Dough Weight: 1.5 to 2 lbs. and richness, but it may be substituted with forms of puff pastry, the dough is mixed as volume than the short mix dough and the passionate about baking and pastry afford Price: $10.00 each any variety, including dry. Just remember little as possible in order to incorporate the honeycomb interior will be lighter and more professional training - and it’s tax deduct- to compensate with water when using dry ingredients, and no more. open. Regardless of which technique is used, a ible! Please help SFBI build our scholarship TRA-B12 12” Diameter - 6” H: TRA-B12 milk. Milk provides flavor, richness, and high quality dough can be achieved. Dough Weight: 3 to 4 lbs. color. The lower the fat content of the milk, fund for the many deserving students who There is no need to develop the gluten need a little help with tuition by placing an Price: $12.00 each the less these benefits will be seen. Incorporating the fat TRA-B8 in the mixer since puff pastry is given at Once the dough has finished fermenting (or order for baskets today! Call 650.589.5724 least four turns during the lamination pro- TRA-B10 Call 650.589.5724 to order. Eggs are an additional hydrating ingredient resting in the case of puff pastry) it is time to place your order. Quantities are limited, cess, which builds sufficient strength in the Quantities are limited, that may be added to croissant dough but to start creating the layers of fat that give so order soon! dough. The exceptions are forms of puff so order soon! are generally reserved more for Danish and laminated dough its defining characteristics. laminated brioche. They are added to the pastry that usually contain eggs and The same techniques and principles apply to Italian form of puff pastry. Eggs add color, additional ingredients and are intensively yeasted and non-yeasted varieties. mixed to build strength in the dough. flavor, richness, and strength. continued on page 4 10 3 lamination: layers beyond imagination start fresh: begin a career in baking continued from page 3 Changing careers or want to jump-start your baking career? Earn your diploma in just sixteen weeks of training! The percentage of roll-in fat used is based two pieces of heavy plastic with a rolling pin. If processing large quantities, it is on the dough weight. The amount of fat Fat f you are committed to starting a new easiest to soften, not cream, the butter in a rolled in to croissant and Danish generally career as a baker, or enhancing your mixer with a spiral hook or paddle, and then ranges from 20-30%. If the dough is given Dough current career in the baking industry, invest in your sufficient fermentation there is no need to spread it into the desired size on a piece of I our 16 Week Bread & Pastry Professional use an excessive amount of fat to produce a parchment, a silicone mat, or heavy plastic. future These pads of butter can then be placed in Training Program will give you the foundation great tasting item. Too much fat can lead to a you need to achieve success. greasy texture. For puff pastry, 50% of roll in fat the refrigerator until needed. If they get too Join a profession with a legacy is standard but it can range from 40-100%. hard in the refrigerator they should be tempered SFBI recognizes that not every student has the slightly by leaving out at room temperature of quality, dedication and honor time and budget available for six months or for a short period of time. Otherwise there and begin a career in an industry To start the process, the dough should first Fat more of training. At the same time, you want Dough may be some cracking of the butter during that continues to thrive and grow be spread out in a rectangle 1/2”-1” thick. to be sure you receive the very best education the sheeting process. in any economic climate. Thickness will vary with the size of the available. We designed our progressive pro- what: piece. The dough can then be covered and When butter with a high water content gram to meet these specific needs. 16 Week Bread & Pastry chilled while the fat is prepared. Develop life-long skills in a is used, its plasticity will be improved by Professional Training Program Our highly concentrated, focused curriculum blending it with approximately 8% of bread profession that offers security, In Europe, pre-formed fat is readily available. includes an unusually high level of hands-on flexibility and creativity. In the U.S., unless the bakery is using an flour based on the butter weight. When using butter it is best to keep the practice and deliberately small class sizes. In when: automated system, the fat must be formed dough and fat as cold as possible. During Margarine our spacious facility, just a short drive from Our current session begins April 25, Train in a professional environ- manually or with the aid of a press. The idea the lamination process, this makes it easier Margarine is often used as a substitute for downtown San Francisco, we offer a techno- 2005; the next session is in 2006. ment that balances theory with is to soften the fat just to the point that it is to work with the dough. It also prevents butter. It is cheaper, has a higher melting logically advanced, welcoming environment pliable and very plastic, but not melting. hands-on learning and focuses softening or melting of the butter, which temperature, and can be stored at room where we introduce students to artisan baking temperature. Margarine is made from veg- where: on the skills you need in the real can be detrimental to the lightness and at its best. The fat should be sized to exactly half the etable oils that have been hydrogenated Train at SFBI’s facility, just a few world of baking today. flakiness of the final product. size of the dough rectangle. Once the fat is to make them solid at room temperature. For two weeks of our program, you will minutes from the one of the most formed, place it directly into the center of When using shortening or margarine care Often, yellow coloring is added, in addition have the unique opportunity to hone your beautiful cities in the world and Working Bakers the dough rectangle and bring the outside should be taken to not let the dough get to artificial flavors, salts, and milk solids. skills in France - the birthplace of artisan spend 2 weeks in France. Learn in Enhance your career and your edges of the dough around the fat so they too cold or the fat will lose its plasticity and baking. This unique culinary adventure will a production-sized environment, salary with new cutting-edge meet in the middle, as shown in the diagram Margarine is more “plastic” than butter and introduce you to the history, tradition and break up under the dough. with small class sizes, spacious bak- skills and a deeper understanding in the next column. takes less effort to form into the needed shape new, trend-setting practices of European for lamination. It also melts at approximately ery classrooms and technologically of the baking arts. Fat Choice baking in the best way possible: first-hand Next, using a heavy wooden rolling pin, 6-8 degrees higher than the temperature of advanced equipment. There are a number of fats that will achieve experience. At the Institut National de la gently press on the dough starting 1” in butter, making it less fragile during the lami- Aspiring Bakers great lamination. From an artisan perspective, Boulangerie, one of France’s most respected from the ends, and then finishing with the nating process. Since margarine and the other Changing careers or opening a quality and flavor should be the first priority. baking schools, you will train with French entire middle section. This will encourage hydrogenated fats listed below melt at temper- who: bakery? The 16 Week Bread Often, economics will play a greater role in instructors as you stay in nearby accom- ● the butter and fat to move together once the atures above body temperature, they are likely Baking Instructors: and Pastry Professional Training determining not only the fat, but the quality modations with your fellow students and dough is rolled or sheeted. It also aids in keep- to leave an unpleasant film in the mouth. Jeff Yankellow and Brian Wood of that fat. Following are the main types of fat absorb the local culture. Program gives you the skills ing the edge of the fat and dough lined up used for lamination along with descriptions Roll-in Shortening and knowledge you need to together. It is not necessary to enclose the fat and considerations for each. Roll-in or puff pastry shortening is another why: get started. in the dough by sealing the end of the dough choice for lamination fat that is often used Visit us on line at www.sfbi.com The only school in the United States together. If this is done there will be dough Butter in larger bakeries. It is generally made of a for a fully detailed curriculum dedicated exclusively to artisan Owners and Bakery Managers with no fat in between and the results may Most people agree that butter produces the hydrogenated fat that has water added, along along with informa- baking, SFBI offers you the unique Grow your business with the appear in the final product. best tasting laminated pastry with the best with artificial flavoring, color, and, sometimes, tion about opportunity to be fully trained in eating qualities. The reason it is not always emulsifiers. The water contributes to the employees you send to train at tuition and If care is taken to keep the fat exactly half the used is because it is the most expensive of leavening of the pastry. The emulsifiers just 16 weeks, in an environment SFBI. Benefit from the enthusiasm size of the dough rectangle, and the dough the choices, and it is the most fragile in create a waxy or plastic texture which econ- housing, where baking never takes a and loyalty that a good is even all the way around the fat, even and terms of temperature tolerance. Butter starts omizes the rolling and folding process. or call us at backseat to other culinary learning. education brings to young uniform layers will be achieved. If this step is to soften at about 80° F. For an artisan bakery, 650.589.5784 people with an interest in their Blended fat neglected, it is hard to correct later. butter is the only choice. More often than not, price is the deciding and ask for an how: work. Give back to the baking From this point on it is very beneficial to When processing small quantities of dough factor in the choice of fat for lamination. application Apply on line at www.sfbi.com community and help contribute have the dough and fat the same texture. it is best to work with the butter directly One way to get the benefits of all of the package to or call us for more information to its continued growth by This is generally achieved with tempera- out of the refrigerator. It can be formed and previously mentioned fats is to combine them. be mailed or at 650.589.5784. helping to build the next ture. Depending on what type of fat, the made pliable by flattening it out between Margarine or shortening is often blended with emailed to you. generation of artisan bakers. temperature will vary. butter to get the flavor without too much cost. 4 9 Many people have never tasted a truly good croissant or Danish and It is important to keep in mind that more is not better when it will be shocked at how delicious they can be when made properly. comes to folding the dough. continued from page 5 As a general rule, the biggest challenge is During the freezing process the dough will Be aware The diagram below represents the single fold. If the environment is warm the dough to apply even pressure to the dough when lose strength due to the crystallization of Although it probably won’t make a signifi- The dough is first sheeted approximately three should be chilled in between every fold to The baking temperature should not be too rolling. If too much downward force is water. The final fold after defrosting will cant difference in the preferences of most times as long as it is wide. One third of the allow for the fat to stay cold. If more than cold. If it is too cold the butter will melt applied to the dough piece, the lamination rebuild some of that strength. consumers, the FDA is requiring that by dough is folded into the center of the piece two folds are going to be done, the dough instead of creating steam and the final result and layers will be damaged. January 1, 2006, all foods that contain at and the remaining third is folded on top of should be allowed to relax after the first may be heavy and greasy. Additionally, if the Freezing shaped least .5 grams of trans fat per serving, will be that. That is the completion of one single fold. dough to allow the fat to stay cold and the pastry is baked too cold the pastry will be Retarding options Freezing the laminated pastry shaped is a required to list the trans fat content directly gluten to relax. dry before the appropriate color is reached. There are many options when it comes to great way to stay ahead of schedule, elimi- underneath the saturated fat content on the retarding laminated dough. Retarding allows nating the need to shape the pastry every nutrition label. Trans fat naturally occurs in The Shaping Process It is often advantageous to start the baking the process to be stopped or slow down at a day. It does require more space than freezing many foods but is significantly increased After the final folds have been given to the of laminated dough at a high temperature number of points. in bulk and, therefore, may not be the right with the use of hydrogenated fats. laminated dough, a final resting period is nec- to encourage steam from the fat. The tem- choice for every bakery. essary to allow the gluten to relax before the perature can then be lowered to finish the Retarding in bulk Lamination final shaping is done. During the final shaping bake without achieving too much color on The first option is to retard the dough in bulk. A normal process is used up to the point of After the fat has been enclosed into the dough process the dough will be sheeted thinner than the crust. Baking at too hot of a temperature This may be done before or after lamination. If shaping. The product is then placed directly piece it is time to begin giving the dough its during any other stage. If the dough is not will cause too dark of a color and, if taken done before lamination, the dough is placed at in the freezer, covered and protected from the folds, or what the French call tourage. This is the sufficiently relaxed, it will be very elastic and from the oven too early, the structure of the refrigerator temperature one hour after mix- environment. When ready to bake, the pastry idea of rolling the dough thinner and folding tend to shrink after the dough is cut. It is also pastry will be prone to collapsing. ing. After 12-16 hours in the refrigerator, the is defrosted in the refrigerator or at room tem- it onto itself to create multiple layers of fat in helpful to have the dough chilled so it doesn’t dough is laminated. If retarded after lamination perature before being proofed and baked. between multiple layers of dough, creating a Single fold diagram Upon removal of yeasted laminated dough warm up during the shaping stage. it is helpful to leave on of the folds until after light and flaky pastry. from the oven, it is important to allow the the retarding process. If the pastry is going to be in the freezer for To complete a double Although there are endless variations, in product to cool before aggressive handling a week or less, nothing has to be changed The dough is rolled out one of two ways. general the dough is sheeted between 2-4 and especially before packing. Danish and During the retarding process, the dough will with the formula. If a longer freezing period fold, the dough is The first option is to use a rolling pin and sheeted slightly longer mm depending on the dough and the finished croissant are much more fragile than most continue to accumulate gas and the fat will is required a dough conditioner may be complete the process by hand. This is often shape. Once the rolled dough has been placed bread dough and can be easily crushed if lose its plasticity as it gets cold. The remaining needed to maintain the strength of the than for a single fold. The two ends are folded very challenging and tiring. The second and toward each other so that they meet off cen- on the work surface, relax the dough so it mishandled when still warm. fold will de-gas the dough and temper the dough. Additionally, the yeast content may more commonly used method in professional shrinks before cutting, instead of after. fat before the final sheeting and shaping. have to be increased by 1.5 to 2 times the ter. The rectangle is then folded in half. It is bakeries is the use of a reversible sheeter. A important that the two sides are not brought to Tips for hand lamination original amount to compensate for the yeast Proofing Retarding shaped reversible sheeter consists of two belts that feed the exact center of the dough piece to ensure No matter what steps are taken, laminating that will die at the freezing temperature. Only the pastries made from yeasted laminated Often, the best system for a bakery is to retard the dough between a set of moving rollers. The even lamination. by hand is never as easy as laminating with When available, a blast freezer is best for dough will need to be proofed before baking. the pastry after shaping. This can also be space between the rollers is gradually reduced, a reversible sheeter, especially when using an freezing raw dough. The faster the ice crystals It is important to control the temperature of used in combination with retarding in bulk. causing the dough to get thinner and thinner. artisan process. The challenge is to apply even form, the less damage the dough will suffer. the proof box to keep the integrity of the fat The shaped pastry is placed directly into a The benefit of a sheeter is that it always applies pressure using a rolling pin against a dough layers. If the proof box is too hot the layers of chilled environment for a period of 12-24 Pre-proofed frozen very even pressure to the dough and it can roll that will gradually get stronger and stronger. fat will melt into the dough and, in some cases, hours before being proofed and baked. This Using new technology and techniques, this a strong dough much easier than a person. A few adjustments can be made to the melt and pool on the bottom of the pan. is a very convenient way to make laminated type of croissant is now readily available. When using a sheeter the space between the formulation of the dough. The first is to add dough. Depending on how cold the retard- They can be put in the oven directly out rollers should be reduced at a steady rate. If Double fold Proofing can be done at room temperature .1% of deactivated yeast based on the weight diagram ing room is, the pastry may be ready to go of the freezer. The process is much different the space is reduced too quickly the dough but is often done in a warmer environment of the total flour. The yeast will have a directly into the oven after retarding. than artisan style laminated dough, but there will be damaged. If it is reduced too slowly to speed up the process. The temperature reducing effect on the dough creating more is a place for everything. the dough will have to be passed through should not exceed 78°F, especially when extensibility. To increase the extensibility of Freezing in bulk the rollers an excessive number of times. The butter is used as the roll-in fat. The humid- the dough, a 30 to 60 minute autolyse of Freezing the dough piece in bulk after the What are you waiting for? friction will warm up the dough and fat and ity should be set at approximately 78-80%. the flour will be helpful. The next tip is to lamination process has begun can be very Laminated doughs are an easy way to possibly harm the integrity of the layers. Before completing a If too much humidity is used during the helpful. This method allows a bakery to mix increase sales in the bakery and can be used mix the dough no further than a short mix. second fold of either proofing process there may be excessive large batches of dough once a week and for an endless variety of product.The pro- A longer fermentation period and the process The amount of folds given to croissant and type the dough is wrinkling or blistering on the pastry. of folding the dough will build the remaining take them out of the freezer as needed. The cess is not difficult, but careful attention to Danish are generally three single folds or turned 90 degrees. dough is fermented, portioned, and given all strength in the dough. the details is necessary for consistently good two double folds. For puff pastry 4-6 single This ensures that Baking but one of its folds before being wrapped results. For an artisan process, remember folds are often used. the open ends of the Most laminated dough will benefit from well and frozen.The dough can be frozen During the sheeting and rolling process to use the best ingredients available and dough piece are going through the sheeter. a simple wash of egg before baking to aid for up to a week when no conditioners or extended periods of rest in the refrigera- combine them with good fermentation and Keep in mind that more is not better when If the folded piece is elongated towards the in the coloration of the crust. Egg washing additives are used. It is then defrosted over- tor will allow the gluten to relax to the full proper lamination. it comes to folding the dough. Each time the folded ends, the strength of the dough will the pastry before and after proofing will add night in the refrigerator. When ready to extent before attempting to roll it again. dough is sheeted the layers of fat get thinner cause bowing or rounding. This makes it additional color and encourage a more even shape, the final fold is given and the process When sheeting by hand, allow for a 45 min- Many people have never tasted a truly good and thinner. If the dough is folded too many difficult to properly align the dough during coat of egg wash. ute rest between every fold. continues as normal. croissant or Danish and will be shocked at how times the layers of fat will eventually get so folding. Two folds can be done immediately delicious they can be when made properly. thin that they are practically absorbed into the after one another if the dough is well chilled dough. This will result in a more bread like and extensible. interior instead of a flaky honeycomb texture. continued on page 8 8 5 ��

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�� how to �� register �� ● Register on line at �� www.sfbi.com �� ● �� Call 650.589.5784 to �� register over the phone �� ● Tuition for all classes is $950; �� tuition includes daily lunch. �� Sign up for 2 classes within a �� 12 month period and receive �� a 10% discount on the �� second class: total price �� is $1805. �� ● A 50% deposit is required to �� reserve your space in class, �� payable by check, cash or �� credit card (MasterCard, �� VISA, American Express). quick class facts �� The remaining amount is �� ● due on the first day of class. All courses run from Monday-Friday. Courses begin at 8:30am on Monday and 8:00am for the remainder of the week. Classes end at approximately 4:00pm each day. �� ● Acceptable attire is a white chef’s coat or white shirt and checked pants. Hat optional. Wear comfortable non-skid shoes. �� ● Students should bring a notebook, writing utensils, and a calculator to class. Cameras are optional. �� ● As a courtesy to our instructors and fellow students, mobile phones must be shut off or left on “vibrate” mode during class. ● SFBI offers special rates at select hotels near our campus. Most of these hotels offer direct shuttle service to and from our school. Please see our website �� www.sfbi.com for a complete list or call us at 650.589.5784 for details. 6 7 Many people have never tasted a truly good croissant or Danish and It is important to keep in mind that more is not better when it will be shocked at how delicious they can be when made properly. comes to folding the dough. continued from page 5 As a general rule, the biggest challenge is During the freezing process the dough will Be aware The diagram below represents the single fold. If the environment is warm the dough to apply even pressure to the dough when lose strength due to the crystallization of Although it probably won’t make a signifi- The dough is first sheeted approximately three should be chilled in between every fold to The baking temperature should not be too rolling. If too much downward force is water. The final fold after defrosting will cant difference in the preferences of most times as long as it is wide. One third of the allow for the fat to stay cold. If more than cold. If it is too cold the butter will melt applied to the dough piece, the lamination rebuild some of that strength. consumers, the FDA is requiring that by dough is folded into the center of the piece two folds are going to be done, the dough instead of creating steam and the final result and layers will be damaged. January 1, 2006, all foods that contain at and the remaining third is folded on top of should be allowed to relax after the first may be heavy and greasy. Additionally, if the Freezing shaped least .5 grams of trans fat per serving, will be that. That is the completion of one single fold. dough to allow the fat to stay cold and the pastry is baked too cold the pastry will be Retarding options Freezing the laminated pastry shaped is a required to list the trans fat content directly gluten to relax. dry before the appropriate color is reached. There are many options when it comes to great way to stay ahead of schedule, elimi- underneath the saturated fat content on the retarding laminated dough. Retarding allows nating the need to shape the pastry every nutrition label. Trans fat naturally occurs in The Shaping Process It is often advantageous to start the baking the process to be stopped or slow down at a day. It does require more space than freezing many foods but is significantly increased After the final folds have been given to the of laminated dough at a high temperature number of points. in bulk and, therefore, may not be the right with the use of hydrogenated fats. laminated dough, a final resting period is nec- to encourage steam from the fat. The tem- choice for every bakery. essary to allow the gluten to relax before the perature can then be lowered to finish the Retarding in bulk Lamination final shaping is done. During the final shaping bake without achieving too much color on The first option is to retard the dough in bulk. A normal process is used up to the point of After the fat has been enclosed into the dough process the dough will be sheeted thinner than the crust. Baking at too hot of a temperature This may be done before or after lamination. If shaping. The product is then placed directly piece it is time to begin giving the dough its during any other stage. If the dough is not will cause too dark of a color and, if taken done before lamination, the dough is placed at in the freezer, covered and protected from the folds, or what the French call tourage. This is the sufficiently relaxed, it will be very elastic and from the oven too early, the structure of the refrigerator temperature one hour after mix- environment. When ready to bake, the pastry idea of rolling the dough thinner and folding tend to shrink after the dough is cut. It is also pastry will be prone to collapsing. ing. After 12-16 hours in the refrigerator, the is defrosted in the refrigerator or at room tem- it onto itself to create multiple layers of fat in helpful to have the dough chilled so it doesn’t dough is laminated. If retarded after lamination perature before being proofed and baked. between multiple layers of dough, creating a Single fold diagram Upon removal of yeasted laminated dough warm up during the shaping stage. it is helpful to leave on of the folds until after light and flaky pastry. from the oven, it is important to allow the the retarding process. If the pastry is going to be in the freezer for To complete a double Although there are endless variations, in product to cool before aggressive handling a week or less, nothing has to be changed The dough is rolled out one of two ways. general the dough is sheeted between 2-4 and especially before packing. Danish and During the retarding process, the dough will with the formula. If a longer freezing period fold, the dough is The first option is to use a rolling pin and sheeted slightly longer mm depending on the dough and the finished croissant are much more fragile than most continue to accumulate gas and the fat will is required a dough conditioner may be complete the process by hand. This is often shape. Once the rolled dough has been placed bread dough and can be easily crushed if lose its plasticity as it gets cold. The remaining needed to maintain the strength of the than for a single fold. The two ends are folded very challenging and tiring. The second and toward each other so that they meet off cen- on the work surface, relax the dough so it mishandled when still warm. fold will de-gas the dough and temper the dough. Additionally, the yeast content may more commonly used method in professional shrinks before cutting, instead of after. fat before the final sheeting and shaping. have to be increased by 1.5 to 2 times the ter. The rectangle is then folded in half. It is bakeries is the use of a reversible sheeter. A important that the two sides are not brought to Tips for hand lamination original amount to compensate for the yeast Proofing Retarding shaped reversible sheeter consists of two belts that feed the exact center of the dough piece to ensure No matter what steps are taken, laminating that will die at the freezing temperature. Only the pastries made from yeasted laminated Often, the best system for a bakery is to retard the dough between a set of moving rollers. The even lamination. by hand is never as easy as laminating with When available, a blast freezer is best for dough will need to be proofed before baking. the pastry after shaping. This can also be space between the rollers is gradually reduced, a reversible sheeter, especially when using an freezing raw dough. The faster the ice crystals It is important to control the temperature of used in combination with retarding in bulk. causing the dough to get thinner and thinner. artisan process. The challenge is to apply even form, the less damage the dough will suffer. the proof box to keep the integrity of the fat The shaped pastry is placed directly into a The benefit of a sheeter is that it always applies pressure using a rolling pin against a dough layers. If the proof box is too hot the layers of chilled environment for a period of 12-24 Pre-proofed frozen very even pressure to the dough and it can roll that will gradually get stronger and stronger. fat will melt into the dough and, in some cases, hours before being proofed and baked. This Using new technology and techniques, this a strong dough much easier than a person. A few adjustments can be made to the melt and pool on the bottom of the pan. is a very convenient way to make laminated type of croissant is now readily available. When using a sheeter the space between the formulation of the dough. The first is to add dough. Depending on how cold the retard- They can be put in the oven directly out rollers should be reduced at a steady rate. If Double fold Proofing can be done at room temperature .1% of deactivated yeast based on the weight diagram ing room is, the pastry may be ready to go of the freezer. The process is much different the space is reduced too quickly the dough but is often done in a warmer environment of the total flour. The yeast will have a directly into the oven after retarding. than artisan style laminated dough, but there will be damaged. If it is reduced too slowly to speed up the process. The temperature reducing effect on the dough creating more is a place for everything. the dough will have to be passed through should not exceed 78°F, especially when extensibility. To increase the extensibility of Freezing in bulk the rollers an excessive number of times. The butter is used as the roll-in fat. The humid- the dough, a 30 to 60 minute autolyse of Freezing the dough piece in bulk after the What are you waiting for? friction will warm up the dough and fat and ity should be set at approximately 78-80%. the flour will be helpful. The next tip is to lamination process has begun can be very Laminated doughs are an easy way to possibly harm the integrity of the layers. Before completing a If too much humidity is used during the helpful. This method allows a bakery to mix increase sales in the bakery and can be used mix the dough no further than a short mix. second fold of either proofing process there may be excessive large batches of dough once a week and for an endless variety of product.The pro- A longer fermentation period and the process The amount of folds given to croissant and type the dough is wrinkling or blistering on the pastry. of folding the dough will build the remaining take them out of the freezer as needed. The cess is not difficult, but careful attention to Danish are generally three single folds or turned 90 degrees. dough is fermented, portioned, and given all strength in the dough. the details is necessary for consistently good two double folds. For puff pastry 4-6 single This ensures that Baking but one of its folds before being wrapped results. For an artisan process, remember folds are often used. the open ends of the Most laminated dough will benefit from well and frozen.The dough can be frozen During the sheeting and rolling process to use the best ingredients available and dough piece are going through the sheeter. a simple wash of egg before baking to aid for up to a week when no conditioners or extended periods of rest in the refrigera- combine them with good fermentation and Keep in mind that more is not better when If the folded piece is elongated towards the in the coloration of the crust. Egg washing additives are used. It is then defrosted over- tor will allow the gluten to relax to the full proper lamination. it comes to folding the dough. Each time the folded ends, the strength of the dough will the pastry before and after proofing will add night in the refrigerator. When ready to extent before attempting to roll it again. dough is sheeted the layers of fat get thinner cause bowing or rounding. This makes it additional color and encourage a more even shape, the final fold is given and the process When sheeting by hand, allow for a 45 min- Many people have never tasted a truly good and thinner. If the dough is folded too many difficult to properly align the dough during coat of egg wash. ute rest between every fold. continues as normal. croissant or Danish and will be shocked at how times the layers of fat will eventually get so folding. Two folds can be done immediately delicious they can be when made properly. thin that they are practically absorbed into the after one another if the dough is well chilled dough. This will result in a more bread like and extensible. interior instead of a flaky honeycomb texture. continued on page 8 8 5 lamination: layers beyond imagination start fresh: begin a career in baking continued from page 3 Changing careers or want to jump-start your baking career? Earn your diploma in just sixteen weeks of training! The percentage of roll-in fat used is based two pieces of heavy plastic with a rolling pin. If processing large quantities, it is on the dough weight. The amount of fat Fat f you are committed to starting a new easiest to soften, not cream, the butter in a rolled in to croissant and Danish generally career as a baker, or enhancing your mixer with a spiral hook or paddle, and then ranges from 20-30%. If the dough is given Dough current career in the baking industry, invest in your sufficient fermentation there is no need to spread it into the desired size on a piece of I our 16 Week Bread & Pastry Professional use an excessive amount of fat to produce a parchment, a silicone mat, or heavy plastic. future These pads of butter can then be placed in Training Program will give you the foundation great tasting item. Too much fat can lead to a you need to achieve success. greasy texture. For puff pastry, 50% of roll in fat the refrigerator until needed. If they get too Join a profession with a legacy is standard but it can range from 40-100%. hard in the refrigerator they should be tempered SFBI recognizes that not every student has the slightly by leaving out at room temperature of quality, dedication and honor time and budget available for six months or for a short period of time. Otherwise there and begin a career in an industry To start the process, the dough should first Fat more of training. At the same time, you want Dough may be some cracking of the butter during that continues to thrive and grow be spread out in a rectangle 1/2”-1” thick. to be sure you receive the very best education the sheeting process. in any economic climate. Thickness will vary with the size of the available. We designed our progressive pro- what: piece. The dough can then be covered and When butter with a high water content gram to meet these specific needs. 16 Week Bread & Pastry chilled while the fat is prepared. Develop life-long skills in a is used, its plasticity will be improved by Professional Training Program Our highly concentrated, focused curriculum blending it with approximately 8% of bread profession that offers security, In Europe, pre-formed fat is readily available. includes an unusually high level of hands-on flexibility and creativity. In the U.S., unless the bakery is using an flour based on the butter weight. When using butter it is best to keep the practice and deliberately small class sizes. In when: automated system, the fat must be formed dough and fat as cold as possible. During Margarine our spacious facility, just a short drive from Our current session begins April 25, Train in a professional environ- manually or with the aid of a press. The idea the lamination process, this makes it easier Margarine is often used as a substitute for downtown San Francisco, we offer a techno- 2005; the next session is in 2006. ment that balances theory with is to soften the fat just to the point that it is to work with the dough. It also prevents butter. It is cheaper, has a higher melting logically advanced, welcoming environment pliable and very plastic, but not melting. hands-on learning and focuses softening or melting of the butter, which temperature, and can be stored at room where we introduce students to artisan baking temperature. Margarine is made from veg- where: on the skills you need in the real can be detrimental to the lightness and at its best. The fat should be sized to exactly half the etable oils that have been hydrogenated Train at SFBI’s facility, just a few world of baking today. flakiness of the final product. size of the dough rectangle. Once the fat is to make them solid at room temperature. For two weeks of our program, you will minutes from the one of the most formed, place it directly into the center of When using shortening or margarine care Often, yellow coloring is added, in addition have the unique opportunity to hone your beautiful cities in the world and Working Bakers the dough rectangle and bring the outside should be taken to not let the dough get to artificial flavors, salts, and milk solids. skills in France - the birthplace of artisan spend 2 weeks in France. Learn in Enhance your career and your edges of the dough around the fat so they too cold or the fat will lose its plasticity and baking. This unique culinary adventure will a production-sized environment, salary with new cutting-edge meet in the middle, as shown in the diagram Margarine is more “plastic” than butter and introduce you to the history, tradition and break up under the dough. with small class sizes, spacious bak- skills and a deeper understanding in the next column. takes less effort to form into the needed shape new, trend-setting practices of European for lamination. It also melts at approximately ery classrooms and technologically of the baking arts. Fat Choice baking in the best way possible: first-hand Next, using a heavy wooden rolling pin, 6-8 degrees higher than the temperature of advanced equipment. There are a number of fats that will achieve experience. At the Institut National de la gently press on the dough starting 1” in butter, making it less fragile during the lami- Aspiring Bakers great lamination. From an artisan perspective, Boulangerie, one of France’s most respected from the ends, and then finishing with the nating process. Since margarine and the other Changing careers or opening a quality and flavor should be the first priority. baking schools, you will train with French entire middle section. This will encourage hydrogenated fats listed below melt at temper- who: bakery? The 16 Week Bread Often, economics will play a greater role in instructors as you stay in nearby accom- ● the butter and fat to move together once the atures above body temperature, they are likely Baking Instructors: and Pastry Professional Training determining not only the fat, but the quality modations with your fellow students and dough is rolled or sheeted. It also aids in keep- to leave an unpleasant film in the mouth. Jeff Yankellow and Brian Wood of that fat. Following are the main types of fat absorb the local culture. Program gives you the skills ing the edge of the fat and dough lined up used for lamination along with descriptions Roll-in Shortening and knowledge you need to together. It is not necessary to enclose the fat and considerations for each. Roll-in or puff pastry shortening is another why: get started. in the dough by sealing the end of the dough choice for lamination fat that is often used Visit us on line at www.sfbi.com The only school in the United States together. If this is done there will be dough Butter in larger bakeries. It is generally made of a for a fully detailed curriculum dedicated exclusively to artisan Owners and Bakery Managers with no fat in between and the results may Most people agree that butter produces the hydrogenated fat that has water added, along along with informa- baking, SFBI offers you the unique Grow your business with the appear in the final product. best tasting laminated pastry with the best with artificial flavoring, color, and, sometimes, tion about opportunity to be fully trained in eating qualities. The reason it is not always emulsifiers. The water contributes to the employees you send to train at tuition and If care is taken to keep the fat exactly half the used is because it is the most expensive of leavening of the pastry. The emulsifiers just 16 weeks, in an environment SFBI. Benefit from the enthusiasm size of the dough rectangle, and the dough the choices, and it is the most fragile in create a waxy or plastic texture which econ- housing, where baking never takes a and loyalty that a good is even all the way around the fat, even and terms of temperature tolerance. Butter starts omizes the rolling and folding process. or call us at backseat to other culinary learning. education brings to young uniform layers will be achieved. If this step is to soften at about 80° F. For an artisan bakery, 650.589.5784 people with an interest in their Blended fat neglected, it is hard to correct later. butter is the only choice. More often than not, price is the deciding and ask for an how: work. Give back to the baking From this point on it is very beneficial to When processing small quantities of dough factor in the choice of fat for lamination. application Apply on line at www.sfbi.com community and help contribute have the dough and fat the same texture. it is best to work with the butter directly One way to get the benefits of all of the package to or call us for more information to its continued growth by This is generally achieved with tempera- out of the refrigerator. It can be formed and previously mentioned fats is to combine them. be mailed or at 650.589.5784. helping to build the next ture. Depending on what type of fat, the made pliable by flattening it out between Margarine or shortening is often blended with emailed to you. generation of artisan bakers. temperature will vary. butter to get the flavor without too much cost. 4 9 farewell: from didier lamination: layers beyond imagination continued from page 1 The flavors and dough characteristics are For the yeasted forms of laminated dough he time has come from and consulting. equal to when using a preferment. As I will there are two schools of thought. Because me to move on to the explain later, it is best to work with the fermentation is going to be a factor in build- I know SFBI is in good hands with Jeff and Tnext chapter in my life. dough cold during the lamination process. ing strength in the dough, the dough should Brian. The standards of quality and the mission I have been given the perfect never be taken beyond the improved mix instilled by Michel will remain the same. I am opportunity to grow as an indi- If a preferment will be used, with or with- stage or medium gluten development. If sure I will cross paths with many of you in the vidual and as a baker in a new out fermenting the dough in the refrigerator the dough is taken to full development the future. I will be involved with SFBI for classes Didier Rosada environment. overnight, the choice of preferment is up to dough may have an excess of strength and Head Instructor and consulting. I can be contacted at the same the baker. Traditionally, sponge is used for elasticity that will create challenges during I am joining Uptown Bakers email address: [email protected] sweet doughs, as the flavor and strength it the shaping stage. Intensive mixing may also in Washington, D.C. as Vice President of provides is a good match. cause an excess of volume during the bak- Operations. This position will advance my Thank you for all the good times we ing, resulting in a finished texture that lacks skills on the operational side of the bakery have had, and will continue to have in the A poolish by itself or a poolish combined substance and body. business and also will allow me to continue future! with another preferment is a great way to -- Didier with my other passions, including teaching increase the extensibility sometimes created Some bakers only mix their croissant and by stronger flours during the folding process. Danish in first speed until good incorpo- No matter which technique is used, remem- ration is achieved. The dough is given a ber that the fermentation of the dough is as long first fermentation and the strength of important as the lamination. the dough is achieved through the folding Although often considered “sweet dough”, process. By not mixing the dough too much, Ingredient selection croissants and Danish actually contain a extensibility is not sacrificed. There is also Fat choice used for lamination will be moderate amount of sugar. White granulated “Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread very little oxidation and great flavor due discussed later in this article. At this point, sugar is typically the sweetener of choice, to the short mixing. The result in the baked with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” it is important to understand the other main but brown sugar is an easy way to create a pastry is smaller volume and a slightly heavier, James Beard (1903-1985) ingredients used in lamination, the most new flavor profile for any laminated dough. important being the flour. Think of laminated but acceptable, texture. The overall appear- dough like bread. The goal is to create a If the laminated dough is yeasted, any form ance may not look as sharp, but still retains dough with sufficient fermentation tolerance of yeast may be used in the right propor- generally nice visual and eating qualities. tion. Because of the levels of sugar and fat that provides a good balance of elasticity and The other route to take is to mix the dough in these doughs it is necessary to use higher help a student: buy a proofing basket! extensibility. The best choice is to use an to a medium stage of gluten development, amounts of sugar than are typically used in artisan-style bread flour made from hard or the improved mix. This creates dough lean dough. If the sugar is above 12% based winter wheat with a protein level between with more strength out of the mixer, allowing hanks to a donation from Trader on the weight of the total flour, osmotoler- 10.5 and 12%. The same flour used for the for reduced fermentation time. Fermentation Joe’s, SFBI is happy to offer a line Rattan banneton baskets ant yeast may be a good choice to keep the All proceeds go to bread in the bakery should be perfect. flavors and benefits can still be achieved by of high-quality proofing baskets lined with linen: proofing process moving at a faster rate. T fermenting over a 12-18 hour period in the as a fund-raiser for our new Scholarship the non-profit Depending on the type of pastry, milk may Mixing refrigerator or by using preferments. If a good Organization. All proceeds from the sales Sizes: or may not be used. Typically, croissant The first step of the baking process that affects quality artisan flour is used, there still won’t of these baskets will go directly to our non- San Francisco is made with a blend of milk and water. 8” Diameter - 4-1/4” H: TRA-B8 the lamination is the mixing of the dough. In be any problems with extensibility, and if there profit scholarship organization, which helps Danish usually is made with all milk. Puff Baking Scholarship Dough Weight: 1 to 1.5 lbs. the category of non-yeasted dough there are is a problem with a certain flour, the right economically challenged students with their pastries are generally made with all water, Price: $8.00 each generally two levels of development. For yeasted preferment can correct it. baking education tuition at SFBI. Organization. but certain varieties contain some white dough, there are wide-ranging opinions and 10” Diameter - 4-3/4” H: TRA-B10 wine. Whole milk is the best choice for flavor possibilities. For traditional, inverted, and blitz The finished pastry will have slightly more Your purchase will help a student who is Dough Weight: 1.5 to 2 lbs. and richness, but it may be substituted with forms of puff pastry, the dough is mixed as volume than the short mix dough and the passionate about baking and pastry afford Price: $10.00 each any variety, including dry. Just remember little as possible in order to incorporate the honeycomb interior will be lighter and more professional training - and it’s tax deduct- to compensate with water when using dry ingredients, and no more. open. Regardless of which technique is used, a ible! Please help SFBI build our scholarship TRA-B12 12” Diameter - 6” H: TRA-B12 milk. Milk provides flavor, richness, and high quality dough can be achieved. Dough Weight: 3 to 4 lbs. color. The lower the fat content of the milk, fund for the many deserving students who There is no need to develop the gluten need a little help with tuition by placing an Price: $12.00 each the less these benefits will be seen. Incorporating the fat TRA-B8 in the mixer since puff pastry is given at Once the dough has finished fermenting (or order for baskets today! Call 650.589.5724 least four turns during the lamination pro- TRA-B10 Call 650.589.5724 to order. Eggs are an additional hydrating ingredient resting in the case of puff pastry) it is time to place your order. Quantities are limited, cess, which builds sufficient strength in the Quantities are limited, that may be added to croissant dough but to start creating the layers of fat that give so order soon! dough. The exceptions are forms of puff so order soon! are generally reserved more for Danish and laminated dough its defining characteristics. laminated brioche. They are added to the pastry that usually contain eggs and The same techniques and principles apply to Italian form of puff pastry. Eggs add color, additional ingredients and are intensively yeasted and non-yeasted varieties. mixed to build strength in the dough. flavor, richness, and strength. continued on page 4 10 3 from michel: recipe of the season: croissant with poolish about us: the ethics of “poaching” �� sfbi Michel Suas, Founder/President �� ince 1996, the San “poacher” targeted Oftentimes, I receive calls for a baker’s �� Francisco Baking SFBI. Our head position opening and I know a lot of baker �� instructor, Didier “assistants” or “head bakers” who would fit �� A �� Institute (SFBI) has Rosada, got an offer he the job. However, I do not say anything S �� trained hundreds of profes- could not turn down, and, because I know that most bakeries, especially I must say, I would have smaller ones, depend on key staff members, �� sional and aspiring bakers taken the position, too. who are a big part of their operation, and �� Michel Suas �� Reading these lines, I do not necessarily have the resources and from all over the world. We �� am sure some of you will structure to immediately or effectively �� have acted as the unofficial think, “I should have offered Didier a job.” replace someone. f you enjoy a great croissant, try this �� However, you did not. I want to thank you training site for several �� A more beneficial exchange would help to variation with a poolish. Most bakers �� for it! �� award-winning Baking USA both promote good workers and provide Iuse a poolish for their baguette, and �� it works equally as well to produce an �� You know how much SFBI brings to the goals to entry-level bakers to show them �� Teams and hosted a variety irresistible croissant dough. Don’t stop baking industry by giving support to both how far they can advance. The next time �� smaller bakeries and larger ones. Besides, you, as a owner or chef, see an ad that could with the croissant; try using it for rum �� of international groups—from �� you know that taking a key staff member benefit one of your employees, share the raisin rolls or chocolate praline rolls, too! �� countries including Russia, from a small organization like SFBI could be information. Show that you are supporting �� China and Japan—interested viewed as unfair. Especially when flashing all their skills and hard work and education in the big dollar signs that SFBI cannot afford. the baking industry. in bringing artisan baking However, rest assured that the San Francisco Furthermore, if your employees show back to their homelands. Baking Institute is not in difficulty; we have potential, send them to seminars or similar SFBI is recognized within talented people in place. Our mission is still educational classes to polish their skills and “Blues is to jazz what yeast is to bread. Without it, it’s flat.” the same as it was at our inception. Our better themselves. They will be ready to take the baking industry as a place philosophy remains the same, too: independent, on new challenges within your workplace. Carmen McRae, Jazz vocalist and pianist (1920-1994) where artisan baking is open doors and commitment to education at any cost - raising the bar constantly by All that said, I do wish Didier good luck in respected, appreciated and listening to your needs. We have lots of his new endeavor. We support his success. I know we will see him again at the San celebrated. We are passionate exciting new ideas and commitments for baker’s tip: making the baker’s life easier 2005 and beyond. Francisco Baking Institute for visits and about sharing our knowledge various projects. He is addicted to us. by Jeffrey Yankellow, Baking & Pastry Instructor I would like to talk a little bit about “poach- --Michel Suas and enthusiasm with students ing.” Everyone can be a victim of it by a and clients in an effort to chef/owner or recruiter, who decides to eciding to own or even In a bakery that makes croissants, Danish, bear claws, go through the back door to tempt away career just work in a bakery has cinnamon rolls, sticky buns, and a variety of sweet raise the level of the craft. another company’s employees. I must say Dtraditionally destined the rolls, all can be made with croissant. that it is something I never saw in France opportunity baker to a life of long hours in the while working in restaurants or bakeries. middle of the night. Motivated by Unlike the simple croissant, these other products First of all, if an owner or chef needed the desire to have a friendlier sched- have fillings and glazes which generally have more Are you an experienced baking & pastry Jeffrey Yankellow someone they would call other chef/owners ule and workload, techniques such of an impact on the consumer’s buying decision instructor looking for an exciting new to find out if they had a person available to as retarding and freezing are used than whether or not the Danish is made from a true opportunity? SFBI is now hiring! promote. In addition, if a chef/owner had more and more. One way to lighten the load in the Danish dough. an employee who had reached a high level bakery, especially in smaller operations with limited Please forward your resume to: You can even add a small percentage of eggs to the of competency and they did not have a employees, is to cross utilize the staple preparations. San Francisco Baking Institute croissant to give it more body and richness. It will position open for such a skilled worker, they Croissant dough is a perfect example of how this 480 Grandview Drive still be suitable for croissants and work great for would assist him finding a place worth his works. It is a classic product that, in its best forms, South San Francisco, CA 94080 everything else. If it tastes great the customer may talents, opening doors for him to improve reveals subtle fermentation, a honeycomb interior, even like it better and the baker gets to save himself and evolve in his field. pure butter flavor, and a light flaky texture. Sounds Or email Michel Suas at: good right? So why not use the same dough for a lot of work! [email protected] more than just croissants?

2 11 Happy Spring from SFBI! from Spring Happy What’s Rising San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter ● Spring 2005