12/19/20

TRADITIONAL GEORGIAN- AND REGENCY-ERA HOLIDAY DRINKS Justine Covington

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WASSAIL

Wassail is a traditional drink that dates back to Medieval times in England Similar to mulled wine and negus Word wassail is believed to originate from Anglo-Saxon greeting was-hál, which means “be healthy” or “to your health”

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WASSAIL

Wassail is a very boozy drink served hot Recipes varied by region depending on local ingredients and alcohol used ­ Traditional Suffolk Wassail uses cider, port, and sherry/madeira as a base ­ Yorkshire “Lamb’s Wool” Wassail uses ale instead of cider, and apples are peeled and mashed to make them look like fluffs of wool ­ Other ingredients typically include cinnamon, sugar, cloves, oranges, ginger, nutmeg, and lemons Often served after wassailing

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WASSAILING

Ancient tradition where individuals parade through apple and pear orchards during Twelfth Night They sing, bang pots/pans, and generally create a hullabaloo to ward off bad spirits for a good harvest next year Orchard owners offered hot, spiced cider and wine as thanks Wassailing adapted beyond orchards; folks walked from home to home offering cups of the drink and toasting their health “Here we come, a-wassailing among the leaves so green.”

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WASSAIL BOWLS

Wassail was served in wassail bowls, which were sometimes decorated with holly or ivy and red ribbon The bowls often had many handles for shared drinking, and some had elaborately decorated lids ­ This earthenware bowl dates to 1682

Image credit V&A Museum 5

WASSAIL BOWLS

Bowls were also made from wood, such as maple Many were made from Lignum vitae (literally “tree of life”), such as this one ­ Lignum vitae grows in Caribbean and northern S. America ­ Brought to England through colonial trade Traditionally, Lignum vitae had medicinal properties, which made it appropriate for a drink that toasted one’s health

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NEGUS

Invented by Col. Francis Negus in early 1700s Similar to wassail; served hot Typically made from port, water, lemons/lemon juice, sugar, and nutmeg ­ According to Mrs. Beeton, can substitute sweet white wine for port, but it’s not common Late 18th/early 19th century, commonly served during balls or parties, but by Victorian era, was considered a drink for children’s parties Amply mentioned in books by a variety of 19th century authors, including Brontë, Dickens, Trollope, and Austen, among others.

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MULLED WINE

Mulled wine has been around since Roman times; served hot in the winter ­ Wine didn’t store for long periods, so it was common to flavor it with spices to hide spoilage Known around the world under many other names ­ Glögg, Glühwein, Kuhano vino, Vinho Quente/Quentão, Greyano, Candola, Vino Navega’o, Svarené Víno, Vin Chaud By the Georgian/Regency period, the typical ingredients included ­ Red wine (usually port or claret) ­ Water ­ Sugar (with a higher proportion of sugar if using claret) ­ Spices such as cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and mace

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SMOKING BISHOP

Variation of mulled wine that uses roasted fruit (caramelization added sweetness) Made with port, red wine and lemons [later Seville oranges]) Other varieties ­ Smoking Pope (burgundy) ­ Smoking Cardinal (Champagne or Rhine wine) ­ Smoking Archbishop (fortified with claret) ­ Smoking Beadle (raisins and ginger wine) Collectively known as “Ecclesiastics” (perhaps referencing Ecclesiastes 8:14-15 “…eat, drink, and be merry…”?) Scrooge and Mr. Cratchit sharing a Smoking Bishop in Dickens’ “A Christmas Carol.” 9

SLOE GIN

Sloe gin is a ruby-red, sweet-tart liqueur that dates back to the 17th century Made by infusing gin with sloe berries ­ Enclosure Acts in early 1600s made individual properties out of common land ­ Blackthorn trees (Prunus spinosa) were planted as hedgerows to separate land; they produce sloe berries ­ Sloe berries on their own are very tart and astringent, but when fermented in gin, produce a sweeter flavor It didn’t take long for people to figure out what to do with the berries

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SLOE GIN

Sloe gin became a Christmas tradition because of when it’s made…late autumn ­ Berries are harvested around October ­ They are pricked, mixed with sugar and gin, shaken daily until the sugar dissolves, then the berries are strained out and the liquor sits on a shelf for a minimum of two months The earliest one can reasonably drink sloe gin is December (hence it’s association with Christmas), but as with many wines and liqueurs, the older the better ­ A Guardian journalist described three homemade vintages thus: ­ That year’s vintage: pleasant, but alcohol was harsh ­ Six-year vintage: more balanced with quite a strong almond flavor ­ Eighteen-year vintage: completely balanced flavor similar to a good Malmsey Madeira

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SLOE GIN

Unfortunately, sloe gin developed a bad reputation (as did most gin), becoming known as a “poor man’s port” ­ Gin in the 18th century was not the well-refined beverage we find now. During the mid-century craze, it was made with everything from urine to sulphur acid Sloe gin improved in taste and quality in the middle of the 19th century, and became even more popular at Christmastime, particularly for the Boxing Day hunt Want to try it? Plymouth is purported to be the best “traditional” brand on the market today, using an 1883 recipe

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PORT

While port isn’t made in Britain, it is a thoroughly British drink, having been imported from Oporto, Portugal since the mid-17th century Given the Georgian and Regency era’s love of port (the most imported beverage at that time), it’s safe to say the drink could be found on most sideboards Port was also used as a base for punch-like drinks such as wassail and Smoking Bishops According to The Spruce Eats, most Brits today buy one bottle of port a year, and traditionally at Christmastime

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EGGNOG

Its exact history is debated, but most historians think eggnog developed from a posset (hot, milky, ale-like drink) ­ By 13th century, monks were drinking a posset made with eggs and figs Georgian/Regency recipes include eggs, cream, sugar, spices, and other liquors, like sherry, brandy, or Madeira, and was served warm Eggnog became tied to Christmas in colonial America ­ Americans adopted cheaper rum as signature ingredient ­ In the south, began using bourbon or whiskey While not a British Christmas drink per se, it was enjoyed during colder months

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SYLLABUB

A less potent version of eggnog, made from alcohol and cream Traditionally, fresh milk (directly from the cow) was added to a bowl of spiced cider or ale and other liquors like sherry or brandy ­ A curd would form on top; whey underneath ­ The solids that formed on top were eaten with a spoon; the wine underneath was drunk

In the latter half of the 18th century, less wine was used, allowing the syllabub to be whipped into a thick froth, known as an everlasting syllabub

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ATHOLL BROSE

A traditional Scottish drink typically served for Hogmanay (New Year’s Eve) Origins are legendary, not factual ­ Earl of Atholl made the drink in 1745 and captured the Earl of Ross by filling a well with it Made from oats, honey, and (good) whisky (cream is optional; may have come later) ­ Oats soak in water for twenty-four hours ­ Strain out the oats, leftover liquid is the brose ­ Add honey and whisky (and cream) Supposedly a favorite of Queen Victoria, who discovered it in 1842

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CHEERS AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS

(I think he had too much to drink!)

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