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TURKISH

From Pastures TO PALACES

The Turkish

By Rhiannon Davies Photos by CENK SÖNMEZSOY, ELİF SAVARİ KIZIL TILES FROM IZNIK FOUNDATION

THE GUIDE 102 FEATURE

By Rhiannon Davies Photos by CENK SÖNMEZSOY, ELİF SAVARİ KIZIL TILES FROM IZNIK FOUNDATION Ceramic Turquoise Plate and Ottoman Serving Plate with Lid by Sofa Art & Antiques

103 MARCH-APRIL 2014 TURKISH FOOD

any visitors come A Little The nomadic Turkic tribes, to thinking regarded as the ancestors of they have a History modern day Turks, departed from handle on Turkish the Altay Mountains of what is ,M and that this handle is “Turkish food presents now Mongolia, to traverse the shaped, impaling delicately incredible variations of often unforgiving landscapes seasoned, char-grilled meat. By the delicious tastes because of the of , before settling time they leave, some of the many ingredients’ sources, the history in the fertile plains of and varied dishes that reveal Turkish of Turkish footsteps from between the 6th and 11th cuisine’s complex and multi-layered central Asia to the , centuries. Along the way, different nature will have been sampled, but and the dynamics of early culinary techniques were in actuality, this experience merely civilization in Anatolia. Turks assimilated and several of the scratches the surface. Along with lived in an area where 80% fundamental aspects of today’s French and Chinese, the Turkish of edible botanies originated were established kitchen is regarded as one of the and the world’s oldest during this period. Turkey’s world- world’s greatest, yet defining it can were nourished. Turks also had renowned can be traced to be tricky. a big role in the silk and the pastoralists’ meat based diet, road trade over the centuries. consisting of meat cooked over We asked Hande Bozdoğan, Nomadic life meant that Turks campfires. The substantial use of founder of the Istanbul Culinary were influenced and inspired yoghurt, another defining feature Institute, what makes Turkish by others.” of today’s Turkish kitchen, was culinary culture so unique: also a feature of those times, when Vedat Başaran, it was most probably fermented “When we say Turkish food, we and ’s by the wild bacteria present in talk about a big variety, in terms of Culinary Arts Center, goat skin bags. types and also geography. With a Nar Lokanta and Surplus rich historic and geographic span, today’s Turkish kitchen represents all the food cooked and served in this land, which, some centuries ago, covered an area from the to North and part of , encompassing various ethnic culinary cultures.”

With this much diversity, it’s possible for ten different visitors to leave with ten different ideas about Turkish cuisine’s many components. With that in mind we wanted to take a closer look at how history, geography, and culture have shaped Turkey’s , and paved the way for today’s restaurant scene.

Unless addresses are provided, all contact details for mentioned restaurants can be found in our listings, in the back of the magazine.

THE GUIDE ISTANBUL 104 When they reached Anatolia, became the source of Persian, 17th century mutton and (the main Arab, Balkan, North African, records agricultural products of the region) Slavic, and Central Asian suggest that became the basis of their diet. South influences, which remain on Eastern Anatolia is actually regarded Turkish tables today. in Istanbul: as the birthplace of wheat – where 250 tons of it was first cultivated. Bread was However, it was in the Imperial were baked every day cooked on griddles or in clay ovens, Palace’s where Ottoman 18,000 oxen were while mantı (stuffed dumplings) and cuisine really blossomed. Any a dish similar to börek (filled pastry) visitor to Topkapı Palace today slaughtered each were also consumed. As the nomads understands the importance of month reached the warm seas of the eating well by witnessing the ten 2000 ships of food Mediterranean and Aegean, seafood domes housing huge kitchens sailed to the Golden also became part of the diet. where up to 1,300 staff members Horn annually worked to feed as many as 10,000 130 courses were After the Ottomans took discerning, hungry mouths. served in one Banquet from the The hundreds of cooks each in 1453, a new specialized in and mastered one chapter began in the Turkish food type such as helva, pilafs, cookbook. The multinational and fish, , pastries, , multilingual empire spread from jams or beverages. Though it was the Black Sea to North Africa and mostly confined to the palaces, from Arabia to the Balkans, with this rich cuisine also spread to Istanbul as the truly cosmopolitan the rest of population via royal capital. This tri-continental span favors in the form of food trays or celebrations.

The Sultan’s appetites were satisfied with lavish feasts that brought in the best produce from the empire’s four corners. As Semi Hakim from Gastronomika told us, “although each chef specialized in their Gastronomika is own niche, it actually became an Anatolian food a great place for the exchange preservation and of ideas, as chefs were brought from each part of the empire. exploration project However these traditions based in remained inside the palace walls Beyo¤lu Gallery. Check and when then yaraticifikirlerenstitusu. was dismantled, many of the com for their program chefs did not start for of talks and workshops. the people. As a result, a large number of recipes were lost.”

However, in recent years, much work has been done to rediscover the Imperial

105 MARCH-APRIL 2014 For more information about minority culture cuisines in Istanbul, watch out for our article TURKISH FOOD coming soon on www.theguideistanbul.com

To have a go at some Recommended Ottoman Dishes From Ottoman-inspired recipes, Asitane’s Menu: see The Ottoman Kitchen: Modern Recipes from Ottoman Hums (1469) Crushed , lightly pureed Turkey, , the Balkans, with currants, pine nuts, and , and by Sarah Stuffed Leaves with Sour Cherries (1844) Grape Woodward, or Timeless leaves stuffed with a blend of sour cherries, , Tastes: Turkish Culinary and pine nuts, cooked lightly in oil seasoned with Culture published by the and cinnamon Vehbi Koç Vakfı Stuffed Melon (1539) Cored melon stuffed with a blend of minced meat, rice, herbs, , currants and baked in the oven Palace’s recipes. Vedat Başaran Levzine (1539) Pounded “” is one of the chefs who worked closely with Ottoman scholars to discover original recipes. One of the key features of palace cuisine was the use of aromatics and fruit in savory dishes, such as chicken with or lamb with figs.

It’s important to note that while certain dishes were being refined in the palace kitchens, other traditions were developing simultaneously in rural Anatolia. These were not only determined by the geography, climate, and regional produce, but also by the different cultures such as the , Jews, Bulgarians, Laz, Circassions, Kurds, Syrians, and – who all influenced the rich tapestry of Turkish cuisine.

To get an authentic taste of Ottoman Palace cuisine, visit one of these specialist restaurants that serve thoroughly researched and original recipes, accurate to the most minute details: Asitane is located close to the Chora Musueum, which contains some exquisite examples of Byzantine mosaics and Frescos. Matbah is found in the heart of the historical district, just a stone’s throw from the Blue Prodigal’s table, 18th Century Mosque and .

THE GUIDE ISTANBUL 106 Breaking It Down The Main Components of Turkish Cuisine

To make the Turkish • Lale İşkembecisi O ffal cuisine’s many facets easier This 24 hour joint has been serving its Turks are also very partial to understand,, some basic renowned to late night revelers to offal, with ci¤er () categories are used to group since 1960. Apart from işkembe, try being a particular favorite. together certain . The the tuzlama ( soup with larger This comes cooked either dishes mentioned below are an pieces), or mercimek. (yaprak) style in thin introduction and mentioned slices, or Arnavut style in restaurants are some of our Meat fried cubes. Other popular favorite places to sample those Kebabs are undoubtedly one of body parts are ikembe dishes. For more options, Turkey’s most popular exports and (tripe), kelle paça (head please see our comprehensive come in a number of different and foot), koç yumurtası Restaurant Listings on forms: döner is layers of meat (sweetbreads), kokoreç www.theguideistanbul.com cooked on a vertical spit, şiş is cubes (), böbrek (kidney), yürek (heart), and cooked on over a grill, Soups and kebabs are made beyin salatası (brain salad). It’s almost unthinkable in The area on the eastern from spiced minced meat (with Turkey to begin a without Adana being the spicier version). banks of the Golden Horn soup and in some parts of the is filled with some more rough-and-ready offal country it is still regularly The other ubiquitous meat focused restaurants. consumed for . The favorite is köfte (meat patty), most commonly encountered which comes in many different versions are mercimek (), ways, including: kuru – ezogelin (made with , mincemeat combined with and tomatoes), and breadcrumbs, egg, finely chopped tavuk suyu (chicken) and and ; Izmir - cooked yoghurt based varieties such as in the oven with potatoes and yuvalama. In a departure from a ; kadınbudu– Western versions, they are all minced meat mixed with rice served with fresh lemon, to be and dipped in egg, flour and squeezed over the top. fried; içli, minced meat and nuts encased in a crispy bulgur shell. İşkembe (tripe) soup is also renowned as a hangover • Köfteci Hüseyin • Bayramoğlu Dönercisi preventative and is usually laced The köfte sold from a pushcart grill Döner is cooked to perfection by a liberally with oil, vinegar 40 years ago is still prepared with no wood-fired oven, with lavaş bread and bubbling hot infused spices and served with red cabbage, served separately for you to make with hot red chili flakes, which tomatoes, tomato paste and onions. your wrap. Rüzgarlıbahçe G-69 Sokak help to mask the taste if it isn’t Kurabiye Sokak No.14, Taksim; No.2, Kavacık; P: (0216) 413 00 45 initially to your liking. P: (0212) 243 76 37

107 MARCH-APRIL 2014 Grains/ Legumes Basic Turkish rice is buttery chewy and delicious. Pilafs are often made with chicken stock and sometimes mixed with , which give extra texture. Bulgur is also popular and is usually enhanced with some tomato paste. These two form the basis of many . In the South East, another wheat product, firik is commonly consumed. See page 128 for more.

Lentils are also popular and used in main dishes as well as soups. The most popular dish is kuru fasülye, made from white , in a , sometimes including small pieces of stewed meat.

• Çanak Mangalda Kurufasülye Photo by Cenk Sönmezsoy Located not far from the water’s edge, this restaurant specializes in kuru fasülye cooked for 4 to 5 hours (shepherd) salad, a mixture of and served alongside buttery rice diced tomato, and and organic yoghurt from Adapazarı. Dishes peppers, dressed in Ayvansaray Caddesi No.25, Zeytinyağlı covers a whole range and the essential Turkish store Ayvansaray; P: (0212) 621 58 35 of vegetables cooked in olive oil cupboard ingredient, nar ekşisi and served at room temperature ( concentrate). If you’re visiting the beautiful and was developed as a way of Süleymaniye Mosque, it’s well worth preserving the season’s bounty. You One of the most popular types stopping off for a bite to eat in one will find everything from celeriac of vegetable dishes are of the many kuru fasülye joints just and in the winter to – stewed or roasted vegetables opposite, for a cheap and filling hearts and in the summer. stuffed with rice, meat or bulgur . Ali Baba’s is the most well- Usually delicately flavored with mix. İmam bayıldı is another very known. Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Caddesi some fresh , lemon juice, and popular dish – aubergine split open No. 1, Süleymaniye; sometimes shallots. and stuffed with tomato, and onion P: (0212) 513 62 19 mix, cooked in olive oil. One of the most overlooked but • Borsa Restaurant central components of Turkish An upscale Istanbul classic since 1927, food are salads. This can be served See our Kuru fasülye Borsa serves excellent olive oil dishes and as simple as a few leafs of rocket recipe on other essentials of the Turkish kitchen. dressed in lemon juice, but the www.theguideistanbul.com Locations in Kandilli and Harbiye. most ubiquitous is the çoban

THE GUIDE ISTANBUL 108 TURKISH FOOD Photo by Cenk Sönmezsoy

Sweets Drinks “Eat Sweet, Talk Sweet” is a Apart from the ubiquitous glasses Turkish expression emphasizing of and Turkish (see our that a satiated sweet tooth can article on page 120), there are raise spirits. , and its a number of other local drinks derivatives, may be the best that are popular with young and known of the Turkish sweets, old. The most popular of these made with layers of thin yufka in undoubtedly , which is a pastry, chopped nuts, and frothy mix of yoghurt, water, and syrup. The sticky sweet treat is salt that is usually drunk with sometimes served with Turkish kebabs and spicy food. In the , which has a unique South East however, it is replaced elastic texture. by şalgam, a drink that hails from Adana and consists of fermented One of the central families of turnip, black carrot, and bulgur. are -based , Şerbet was a typical Ottoman drink with the most popular being made from water, , fruits (made with ), or petals and is still consumed Hamur tavuk göğsü (made with strands during special occasions. More of chicken breast) or popular with visitors is a hot () (with a caramelized top). Another drink made from the root of wild Despite being eaten in various favorite is helva, which comes orchids with a pleasant creamy forms across Eastern Europe and in a myriad of forms, the most taste and texture. may look the Middle East, börek is one of common being the crumbly similar but is served cold and is the most characteristic dishes of rectangular form made with made from fermented . Both Turkish cuisine. Tepsi, su, sigara, various nuts or swirls of , the latter are peddled from street puf, and gül are just some of the that is sometime baked and served carts during colder months. variations, though they are almost with dried fruits. Another popular always filled with either minced version, irmik helva is made from • Vefa Bozacısı meat, white , spinach, spicy and is often served For a taste of nostalgia bedecked in potatoes, or a combination of the complimentary at the end of a old world charm, pay a visit to this above. They are made from yufka, meal, or distributed to friends and niche café. Whether you like the idea which is a paper-thin dough. relatives after a funeral. of ‘drinking’ fermented millet with a Bread, usually white and crusty on spoon or not, it’s worth seeking out.. the outside and pillow soft in the • Saray Muhallebicisi Vefa Katip Çelebi Caddesi No. 104, middle, is a Turkish food staple. Open since 1935, this is a humble ; P: (0212) 519 49 22 Plain pide (thick ) falls restaurant chain that serves Turkish into the bread category. The same food, with an emphasis on desserts. dough is also used to make a tasty Aside from the varieties mentioned boat shaped snack, cooked in a above, you can also taste ayva tatlısı wood fired oven, and topped with ( ), profiterole, and cheese, meat, eggs, and more. crème caramel. Istiklal Caddesi No. 107, Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 236 1617 • Nizam Pide Salonu (and various other locations) Made fresh to order, this restaurant is a reliable and delicious choice FOR MORE ABOUT THE ORIGINS AND USES OF SALEP, READ for pide, just off Istiklal Caddesi. ‘Salep: A Winter Warmer’ on Büyükparmakkapı Sokak No.11/b, www.theguideistanbul.com Beyoğlu; P: (0212) 249 7918

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A World of Difference Turkish

“Turkish food is different in every corner of the country and it is very typical to find certain ingredients and cooking techniques to be capsulated in their homeland (ingredients grown and consumed in that specific region without ever leaving the geography). Therefore regional definitions and influences overlapping is the right way of talking about Turkish food.” Tarik M. Bayazit of the pioneering Istanbul restaurant, Changa

With that in mind, below are the While the restaurants below tend • Çiya seven geographical regions of to focus on the food or dishes of Owner Musa Dağdeviren is an intrepid Turkey, their unique dishes, and one particular region, if you want to food pioneer hailing from some of our favorite places to experience a tasting tour of Turkey and has scoured Turkey’s various enjoy them. whilst remaining in one restaurant, regions to find the best recipes for his there are two excellent options: eclectic repertoire of dishes. Please be aware that there is a lot of crossover: Gaziantep is located in • Nar Lokanta South Eastern Anatolia, but has more Specializes in Anatolia’s all-natural in common with the Hatay region in regional products and recipes from the Mediterranean. Likewise the city the buffet to the a la carte menu. of Kaş in the Western Mediterranean shares many dishes with cities on For more regional restaurants, try sorting by the Aegean coast – so treat them as cuisine on our website listings flexible guides.

THE GUIDE ISTANBUL 110 Aegean Black Sea Central The Aegean coastline is one of The Black Sea is famed for its Anatolia Turkey’s most fertile regions, wet and windy climate. While Wheat and mutton are the with temperate climates and this grey drizzle may have put main produce of the Anatolian arable lands resulting in rich olive a damper on more than a few plateau and this is reflected in groves. The olive oils of this region seaside holidays, it has proven their regional specialties; it is are some of the most treasured to be ideal for growing the area’s the grain center of the country. nationwide and have also spawned renowned produce including Extreme variations in temperature a whole class of vegetable dishes. tea, corn, and . Tiny, between hot dry summers and Fruits, vegetables, and herbs delicious Black Sea anchovies snowy winters account for the grow in abundance, and some known as hamsi are revered and preservation techniques that have vegetables are pickled with have inspired many poems. They developed here. Examples include their juice enjoyed as are also used in a multitude of dry-cured meats and soup, a refreshing drink. The seafood ways including in bread, , which is made from a dried mixture has also found favor both with rice, and more. The Laz people of fermented , flour, and the local population and its of this coast have their own vegetables. Konya is also the home many summer visitors while a dishes while Balkan and Slavic of the Mevlevi Sufi order, which has shared history means that there influences are also to be found. its own culinary traditions. Roasted is also much in common with meat, pulses, , and bulgur . Dishes: : Mıhlama -a filling corn make up a lot of cuisine with flour- meal, butter, and cheese fondue; based desserts. Dishes: Enginar dolması - stuffed hamsi pilavı – spiced rice enclosed artichoke in olive oil; yaprak sarması in fried Black Sea anchovies; kuru Dishes: : Keşkek, a traditional – rolled vine leaves either served cold fasülye – white beans in a tomato wedding dish made with wheat filled with rice, or served warm filled sauce; Laz böreği – a filled and meat; from Konya: etli etmek with meat; Aegean Herb Salad baklava like dessert; Karadeniz pidesi (minced lamb pide), and fırın kebabı (see page 22 for more information). – an elongated and closed form of (oily roasted mutton); from : Restaurants: Giritli, Cibalikapı the popular pide dish. mantı, pastırma (cured, spiced beef) Balıkçısı, Sıdıka Restaurants: For kuru fasülye: Restaurants: Güler Osmanlı Hüsrev (from Rize), Fatih Karadeniz Mutfağı, Aşkana Mantı Pidecisi, Hayvore, İstiklal Caddesi See our recommended Turnacıbaşı Sokak No.4 Beyoğlu Aegean olive oils on P: (0212) 212 245 75 01 Try village style page 138 gözleme in most of the weekly markets listed on page 155. We especially love the ones in the Feriköy Organic Market and Yeilköy Market.

Hande Bozdoğan recommends Nevin Halici’s Sufi Cuisine book for many recipes and rituals

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Şehzade Cağ Kebabı For some excellent information about and its recipes, try Jale Balci’s book, Antakya: City and Cuisine.

Marmara Istanbul’s cuisine is inextricably Eastern Mediterra- linked to the Ottoman palace’s, Anatolia nean whose best chefs were supplied The stunning Kaçkar mountains Stretching from the popular to the palace from the city of of the East, and the volcanic tourist destinations in the West Bolu, which still has a reputation landscape that gives rise to the to the finger of land that juts for producing the country’s top country’s highest mountains into Syria in the East, this cooks. It also serves as a melting such as the mythical Ararat region enjoys sunny weather point for the different minorities come with a harsh climate and the warm waters of the that call this metropolis their that is unforgiving for growing Mediterranean Sea. A wide range home and the cuisine and range vegetables. As a result, dishes of fruits, vegetables, and herbs of restaurants reflects this. One based on grain and meat are more are grown here, and enjoyed of Turkey’s most popular common. Winters are long and throughout the year. Hatay is dishes, İskender was invented in cold, meaning that even meat renowned for its cuisine, and in the late 19th century, has to be preserved and this has its location on the silk and where Kebapçı İskender is still a given rise to the unusual spice trading routes brought family business. Another meaty Goose, which is preserved in salt influences from around the destination is Edirne, a border water before being hung to dry. world creating a spicy cuisine town and an old Ottoman city. It is a seasonal , that you that includes -based kebabs Offal lovers flock here to feast on only occasionally see on select and yoghurt-based . liver, which is good enough to restaurant’s menus. With weather tempt the unconverted. this extreme, it’s also necessary to Dishes: Adana kebab - heavily start the day right, the breakfast spiced minced meat cooked on a Dishes: From Bursa: İskender spread in Van is nationally skewer; from : – small Kebab - slices of döner meat with revered as an epic feast. pieces of beef cooked and served bread, tomato sauce, yoghurt and in a wrap with spices and herbs; melted butter; Edirne ciğer - thin Dishes: From : Cağ kebabı from Hatay: künefe - cheese based slices of fried liver; Sultan’s Pilaf - – meat cooked on a horizontal spit;, dessert, and katmer – sweet or aromatic rice studded with currants from Van: kavut - roasted wheat savory pastry filled with and pine nuts flour blend of and , Restaurants: For Hatay cuisine: Restaurants: Yavuz Iskenderoğlu jajı – a dip made of yoghurt and Akdeniz Hatay Sofrası or Antiochia. (for Iskender), Ihlamur Yokuşu, cottage cheese Emine Ana (for tantuni) Yıldız Yolu No.6, Beşiktaş; Restaurants: Şehzade Cağ Kebabı, P: (0212) 236 55 71, Can Ciğer Van Kahvaltı Evi (for a traditional (for Edirne Ciğer) Barbaros Bulvarı Van breakfast) No. 25/4, Besiktaş; P: (0212) 260 21 54

THE GUIDE ISTANBUL 112 FEATURE The South East of Turkey is revered for its spicy meat-based cuisine, the result of it’s unique location, with being one of it’s most popular exports

Günaydın South Eastern Anatolian Spices are one of the defining Topaz Stands Out With Seasonal and Local features of this region, a result of Ingredients its location on the former spice and silk routes. The most common Topaz, known for presenting unique Mediterranean spices are hot red pepper flakes, dishes and modern , dried , and mint. interpretations of Ottoman These are used in popular snacks, recipes, continues to stun çiğ köfte (originally made with guests with fresh ingredients that are locally sourced. raw meat, but more likely to be a vegetarian kneaded-spiced- Everything used in the bulgur-mix in Istanbul) and Topaz kitchen is acquired through exact research lahmacun (a crispy dough base that sources all necessary topped with spiced meat). It is ingredients from Turkey’s also a paradise for carnivores. varying regions, resulting Spices are used in the region’s in a menu comparable to a taste journey. Paired meat dishes, of which there is with a beautiful, expansive an astonishing variety from offal view of the Bosphorus and to kebab. Another preparation excellent service, Topaz is method is to slow-cook whole the prime destination for sophisticated palates. lamb in an underground well. Desserts, such as some of the best baklava available, tend to feature lots of and other nuts.

Dishes: From Urfa – çiğ köfte; from Gaziantep: beyran – soup made from lamb neck, , rice; from Siirt: Büryan kebabı – lamb cooked underground, and perde pilavı – spiced riced baked inside a thin dough crust. www.topazistanbul.com Restaurants: Antebi (for Gaziantep cuisine), Dürümcü Emmi (for Address: İnönü Caddesi No:50 Beyran), Şeref Kebab (For Büryan Gümüşsuyu/İstanbul Phone:+90 212 249 1001 Kebab & Perde Pilaf), Karaköy For Reservations: Güllüoğlu (for baklava), Borsam [email protected] Taşfırın (for lahmacun)

113 MARCH-APRIL 2014 TURKISH FOOD Visit www.theguideistanbul.com to read our article on the best historic

Types of Restaurants Aside from the many coffee shops, cafes, and international style restaurants, there are some particularly Turkish-style eateries that we’ve classified below. We’ve selected a few of our favorites from each category.

For more, please check our Restaurants and Cafés listings by type on page 190, and online for an even greater selection. Safa Meyhanesi

Meyhanes Traditional Spring), Ali Haydar’s earnest These establishments are held dear Walking into Safa warmth is complemented by to the hearts of many locals. They Meyhanesi, one of the tender kebabs cooked on the are places for long conversations oldest in Istanbul, is a little like ocakbaşı and expertly made fresh and heart-to-hearts. Glasses of stepping back in time. Despite dishes. rakı are raised ‘to honor’ (şerefe) an unassuming facade, the inside meaning that whatever is said at is wonderfully grand but in a Modern the meyhane table, stays at the modest manner, and the very air Meze by Lemon Tree’s meyhane table. Traditionally a is nostalgic. forte lies in the imaginative range of cold starters, hot starters, meze spread, which changes on a a main of fish or meat are chosen, Regarded not only for its regular basis as well as fresh fish followed by a simple dessert. Set endless flow of rakı but also for and made to order salads. menus are often available and its delicious mezes, Asmalı include unlimited drinks. The Cavit is a typical meyhane MaNa is a modern meyhane aniseed drink, rakı, is pretty much offering good service, great food, serving a classic Turkish kitchen the only beverage consumed, and and a friendly atmosphere. lunch menu, and meyhane style often the atmosphere is sometimes dinner menu with a rakı list of enlivened by roving musicians Made famous by the Turkish TV more than thirty options. playing traditional fasıl music series ‘Ikinci Bahar,’ (Second

THE GUIDE ISTANBUL 114 Ma’Nâ

On the Asian side, Suna’nın The Günaydın chain of meat- Yeri is a humble seafood focused restaurants have perfected restaurant that is very popular for the art of cooking meat in various its great food, wonderful views forms including an impressive 21 right by the water, moderate varieties of shish, fillet, cutlet, rib, prices, and casual atmosphere. or wing cuts. Kebab Specializing in Antep cuisine, Restaurants everything on ZerefEt’s menu is We may have begun this article a specialty in its own right, from the hoping to introduce visitors to salads to the grand kebab dishes. the wealth of Turkish cuisine, and show that there is more than just At Şeyhmuz, all meat is kebabs, but that doesn’t mean they prepared to order with a special don’t deserve the hype. method of mincing via a zırh, a double-handled rounded knife. Fish one of Istanbul’s The kebab, mixed with herbs and Restaurants Hamdi premier kebab restaurants, with spices, arrives with an array of With the Black Sea to the North, a menu of 17 different varieties of cold and warm starters. the Marmara to the South, and kebab, in addition to various meze the Bosphorus both dividing and (cold appetizers) and desserts. OCakbaı defining the city, fish has become Also a type of kebab restaurant, a firm fixture in the diet of Established in 1912 and serving these are defined by the existence Istanbullites. Fish restaurants are Southeastern Anatolian cuisine, of a large open grill, called often equipped with the luxury of the original is located in ocakbaşı, meaning ‘head of the a Bosphorus view. Traditionally Develi . Specialties include hearth,’ and if you have the fish is selected from the counter, kebab made with fine bulgur and opportunity to take a seat beside then fried, grilled, or baked in mixed spices, an Antep dish, Ali the grill, do. You’ll get to watch paper according to preference. Nazik and kebab made with keme, a master at work and usually be A tray of seasonal meze is also the Antep word for truffles. the recipient of all kinds of extra brought to the table, with rakı as scraps of perfectly cooked meat. the drink of choice.

Balıkçı Sabahattin is a family-run restaurant housed in a wonderfully restored Ottoman mansion, serving a delicious range of cold and warm starters, salads, and fish, to be rounded off with light desserts and drinks.

One of the top locations for seafood in the city, Kıyı serves an excellent selection of seafood- based appetizers and some of the best-cooked fish in the city. It has a cozy interior with paintings by local artists on the walls and an outside terrace. Ali Ocakbaşı

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Traditional Adana Ocakbaşı serves traditional dishes from the Adana region including Adana Kebab and Urfa Kebab and many other meat- centered . This is also the place for offal, including uykuluk (lamb sweetbread), böbrek (kidney), yürek (heart) and ciğer (liver).

Zübeyir Ocakbaşı, serves traditional ocakbaşı fare, specializing in grilled meats including several kinds of şiş as well as other kebabs (Adana, Urfa, ) in addition to a selection of meze. Since the restaurant gets very crowded on weekends, a visit during the week is recommended. A simit peddlar in Istanbul, Modern 19th century watercolor, anonymous The kebab at Ali Ocakbaşı is some of the lightest meat you will taste in the city. Accompanied by paper-thin lavaş and salad, lamb loving hands of Hayguhi Hanım and chicken kebabs, and meze all and change everyday according Modern arrive fresh. Arap Camii Mahallesi, to seasonal ingredients. Tersane Although Istanbul is filled with Tersane Caddesi Kardeşim Sokak Caddesi, Ziyali Sokak No. 10 these restaurants, the emerging No.45 Kat:4 Grifin Han, Karaköy; Perşembe Pazarı, Karaköy; trend is an update on the classic P: (0212) 293 10 11 P: (0212) 254 11 54 with a more modern décor while maintaining the quality of food and reasonable prices. Esnaf Aslan is a modest sized Lokantası tradesman’s restaurant which Founded in 1950 and owned and Literally translated as ‘tradesmen is located steps away from the managed by the Ügümü family, restaurant’ these no-frills eateries Grand Bazaar has been serving is an upscale version of are the backbone of every Turkish food since 1988. Located on Hünkar a classic tradesman restaurant that neighborhood. Serving hearty the 2nd floor of a commercial specializes in home-style Turkish home-style food in a cafeteria- building, overlooking the Grand and . style setting, this is where locals Bazaar, it offers a welcome go to enjoy a meal that reminds break. What sets Karaköy them of their mother’s cooking. Lokantası apart from the A particularly good version regular esnaf is the upscale interior, Traditional located on the Asian side of town, as well as the fact that the food is , is a small but Mutfak Dili Kanaat has the typically large lighter, alcohol is served, and that charming restaurant where the portions and cheap prices of most you can sip your espresso after home cooked Turkish meals esnaf restaurants with the added lunch. In the evenings, it transforms are prepared by the skilled and perk of high-quality food. into a modern meyhane.

THE GUIDE ISTANBUL 116 Giving It A Modern Turkish Cuisine

With very discerning stomachs, have been foodies before the term existed, ‘locavores’ without even trying. Everyone in Istanbul has opinions on ‘the best’ döner, pilav, kuru fasülye, dolma, and so on. However, in Istanbul as in elsewhere in the world, globalization and urbanization have caused people to lose touch with their food’s origins. Yet in recent years, this is starting to be reversed and Istanbullites are beginning to take a greater interest in what they eat.

Surplus For some delicious and inventive recipes that give As well as running ICI, Hande Vedat Başaran of Nar Lokanta Turkish classics a modern Bozdoğan has her own farm, so told us how he thought Turkish twist, see Lale Apa and we asked her if she thought this food culture could be preserved Hande Bozdoğan’s renowned awareness was on the rise. in the face of globalization cookbook, Contemporary Istanbul Cuisine (available in “Some people are very careful about “Turkish food should be placed English, French, and Turkish. what they eat in terms of seasonality into universal eating principals. and quality of ingredients, but I The origins of local ingredients think this number is considerably should be highlighted on the menus. The Slow Food Movement small in comparison to the overall Traditional cooking techniques began in Italy in the 1980s population. Many people do not must be applied to different local to offer an alternative to have the luxury to think of these ingredients in order to provide much the increasing popularity issues. Luckily, we still have more variety. The origins of Turkish of fast-food. It eventually seasonality; local fruit and vegetable food lie in seasonal local produce, spread to Turkey and has markets are very important for which contemporary cuisine should been gaining popularity household shopping. Home cooking take note of.” in recent years, alongside is important, and it is important the Slow Fish movement, for us as people in the industry, which seeks to protect to exhibit simple ways to cook the seas. For more practical, healthy, and tasty dishes information visit: www. at home. Also, sharing traditional fikirsahibidamaklar.org methods of preserving, making jams, compotes, pastes etc. is vital.”

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In recent years there has been approach, combining history, the traditions of its pastures and talk of an Anatolian revival design, and geography to palaces, but also embrace modern trend in restaurants across explore and experiment. They developments in the culinary the city. We spoke to Civan Er, told us that, “simply eating world, in a uniquely Turkish former head chef at Changa and contemporary Anatolian cuisine in way that celebrates the seasonal the proprietor of Yeni Lokanta, restaurants is not enough. We want bounty and complex history of about the rise of contemporary to change the attitude of people these fertile lands. Turkish cuisine: when they cook at home as well.”

“I don’t know what contemporary Whatever the reason for this Turkish food is - I make traditional revival it’s undeniable that the Turkish food with a contemporary city’s best new restaurants are twist, but I wouldn’t call it modern. no longer turning to For example I make a vegetarian or Tuscany for their inspiration. mantı filled with stewed dried Local chefs are taking pride aubergine, onion, garlic, red pepper in their country’s produce paste mix, and serve it with a sauce and embracing the diversity made of salty yoghurt, ginger, garlic, of Turkish cuisine. The recent and white [as opposed to the openings of Yeni Lokanta and usual meat filled mantı served with Surplus demonstrate that Mikla garlic yoghurt and chili-infused Istanbul can not only retain butter]. In the last five years, Turkish food has started to grow and become more innovative. Perhaps because of the internet, and the effects of globalization. People now have the Istanbul Culinary Institute celebrates its 7th year with an unusual and fun cookbook. Pop-ups and recipe opportunity to see what others are cards bring together over 40 easy-to-follow recipes doing, and people are becoming more from seasonal tasting menus in both English and aware of what they eat.” Turkish. Istanbul Culinary Institute Pop-up Cookery Book is available at Istanbul Culinary Institute Reflecting this new interest, restaurants, select bookstores, and online. Gastronomika is an organization that was formed with the aim of both preserving Anatolian cuisine and repositioning it. Their first step is creating a comprehensive standardized public archive, made of first hand research in Anatolia and from trawling through historical references. Next they are taking an interdisciplinary

TO learn how to cook www.istanbulculinary.com.tr Turkish dishes SEE OUR ‘Back Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 59, Tepebaşı To School With Istanbul’s Culinary Workshops’ & Kadir Has University, Cibalikapı article on OUR WEBSITE Phone: (0212) 251 22 14

THE GUIDE ISTANBUL 118 The newest venture of Anatolian With a menu of dishes that are both MODERN food expert, Vedat Başaran, profoundly original and wholly TURKISH Surplus is on the top floor seasonal, Yeni Lokanta is RESTAURANTS of a former prison with stunning simply excellent. From a simple salad panoramic views. The menu looks with sumac yogurt or sucuk (spicy Traditional back through Anatolian history, sausage) from Gaziantep, all dishes selects the best bits and then exhibit ingredients and traditions Ulus 29 is an upscale favorite presents them in a thoroughly derived from all regions of Anatolia well-known for its incredible modern way. to bring unique creations and Bosphorus view, avant-garde décor. delicious tastes. It offers light modern takes on traditional Turkish food as well as boasting a more international menu, and an award winning wine list. NAR ’s restaurant venture, NAR Restaurant, is located on the Topaz is a fine dining venue with fifth floor of the ARMAGGAN a superb view of the Bosphorus Nuruosmaniye Store. serving excellent Ottoman, international, and Mediterranean From palace cuisine to village fare, cuisine as well as two tasting menus its seasonal menu features the full and an extensive wine list. spectrum of Turkey’s culinary heritage with a special emphasis on traditional Contemporary methods and artisan ingredients. Enstitü is the work place and (skilled) experimentation zone of Istanbul Culinary Institute’s third- year students. The best ingredients and equipment are provided for the students, thoroughly present in the preparation and execution of their dishes.

When Mikla opened in October of 2005, Chef-Owner Mehmet Gürs’ vision of creating a refined but contemporary “Istanbullu” restaurant was brought to life successfully. The menu reflects the chef’s Turkish-Scandinavian background alongside the outstanding food, breathtaking view, and excellent service. Nuruosmaniye Caddesi Müzedechanga is an ARMAGGAN No: 41 innovative restaurant serving 5th Floor, Sultanahmet 34120 Fatih / İstanbul contemporary Turkish- Mediterranean dishes with a creative flair and a beautiful Bosphorus view.

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