Jan/Feb/Mar 2021 The English Language Food Magazine For Portugal Lovers Everywhere

SOUP BAGELS ALMONDS

DO YOU SPEAK +++ T HE CHARM AND HISTORY OF CHOCOLATE?? BEAUTIFUL BOYFRIEND SCARVES TABLE OF CONTENTS

IN EVERY ISSUE FEATURES 10 Wine Vines Food For Thought Black Sheep Lisboa/ 7 RealPortugueseWine.com Lucy Pepper, Eat Portugal 13 Not From Around Here Av’s Pastries & Catering The Secret Ingredient Is Always Chocolate 21 15 Let’s Talk Chocolate Master PracticePortuguese.com Pedro Martins Araújo, Vinte Vinte Chocolate 17 My Town Dylan Herholdt, Portugal Soup’s On: the Simple Life Podcast/ The Definitive Guide To 28 Portugal Realty Portugal’s Soup Scene 19 Portuguese Makers Amass. Cook. Lenços dos Namorados/ Aliança Artesanal Product Spotlight 38 52 Perspective Portuguese Rice David Johnson

Guest Artist The Legend of the 12 41 Eileen McDonough, Almond Blossom Lisbon Mosaic Studio AB Villa Rentals

Fado: The Sonority 43 Of Lisbon getLISBON

Reader Recipe 45 Vivian Owens

>>> Turn to pages 48-50 for Contributors/Recipe List/What’s Playing in Your Kitchen<<<

FROM MY COZINHA

The local food and flavor magazine for I don’t know about you, but these last several months I’ve been doing a lot of English-speaking Portugal traveling…in my mind. I catch myself lovers everywhere! staring into space, daydreaming, reliving some of my excellent adventures and planning an extensive Relish Portugal is published four multi-country train excursion across times a year plus two special Europe. I see friends on Zoom and, in editions. reality, my outside exploits are no more exotic than a trip to the grocery store or All rights reserved. No part of this a takeaway café. But in my cozinha? publication may be reproduced, That’s where I can really travel. distributed, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, including From ethnic soups to fridge staples (I just made dill electronically, without the pickles, tough to find in the Portuguese grocery) to prior written permission New York-style bagels topped with Norwegian smoked of Relish Portugal. salmon to chocolate in many forms, the kitchen is my new agenda. Even with the circumstances we find ourselves ©2021 Relish Portugal in, I’m still curious, eager to discover the backstories of some of my favorite dishes and ingredients. That’s what I Permission and info requests: have for you inside these virtual pages. [email protected]

Who knew the rich traditions of Portuguese soup? And Advertising/PR and distribution: chocolate, did you know there’s a cacao belt on this [email protected] planet? I love a little sweet with my afternoon café and enjoy small almond cookies from my local bakery. When I Subscriptions: relishportugal.com translated them, I got “creepies.” They’re actually called arrepiados and super easy to make. Check out the recipe https://relishportugal.com on page 41. facebook.com/RelishPortugalMag

A while back I asked you to tell me what Portuguese @relish_portugal ingredients you’d like me to look into for our Product Spotlight section. Many of you said rice and it’s pretty interesting. See what I mean, page 38.

And because love is in the air—hello St. Valentine—I've got a couple heart-focused stories you might like. From soul-shattering fado (page 43) to the vulnerability of traditional boyfriend scarves (page 19), the language of love isn’t always spoken aloud.

Meantime, here on the continent, I’ll continue to try new dishes, practice self-care, and unearth my roll-aboard, just in case. Stay safe, eat well, and watch out for those two vaccine side effects my friend joked about: Have something to say? hope and optimism. [email protected]

For you, meu amor.

Cocktail Hour Mixing Portugal Amarguinha: Pale yellow with an intensely aromatic scent of spiced almonds and hints of citrus, the Bitter Almond delicate Amarguinha, an Algarvian liqueur, is made from an old recipe that’s been passed down for generations. It begins with rigorous Liqueur selection of the best almonds available in southern Portugal and ends with a period of maturation carried out in oak casks.

Traditionally, Amarguinha-lovers enjoy it as an aperitif or a digestive just before bed. It’s also excellent with a squeeze of lemon or served with a café and an almond cookie. Here at Relish Portugal we like to mix it up a bit, making a decedent, easy to make at home cocktail that we call Jogo da Laranjinha.

Jogo da Laranjinha is the Portuguese version of bocce ball, especially popular in the Alentejo and Lisbon regions. The laranjinha (a small orange ball) is tossed down the court. Then players roll or toss larger wooden balls toward the laranjinha in an attempt to be the closest ball to the laranjinha once all the balls have been Relish Portugal’s played. In addition to official courts, you might find Jogo da Laranjinha being played on a sandy ocean or river beach. Jogo da Laranjinha

Love On The Rocks, Portuguese-Style Simple to make delivering a subtle, delicious taste, our made up Southern Portugal cocktail uses two of the region’s finest products—bitter almonds and flavorful oranges —to produce an exceptionally lovely cocktail. It’s got a kick. If desired, take it down a notch by omitting the vodka, replacing it with additional Amarguinha.

Fill a rocks glass with ice. Add Amarguinha and ½ shot Armarguinha • vodka and stir. Top with freshly-squeezed • ½ shot high-quality vodka Algarve orange juice and give it a final stir. • freshly-squeezed orange juice Garnish with an orange slice and start sipping.

4 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

Now You Know Quiosque Corner

It’s not unusual in Portugal to come across Nestled in Lisbon’s beautiful urban a large agricultural property, a lovely farm, garden, Campo Mártires da Pátria, atop estate or country house, resplendent with a the esplanade and among the ducks, cement-scroll arched entryway and hand- peacocks, and fountains, settle in for a painted tiles announcing it’s name, often café or cool beginning with “Quinta”. with so many beverage at “quintas” we began wondering about its one of the genesis. city’s funkiest quiosques, It turns out that the farms were let out for Mosca da rent of one-fifth of its produce–fifth is Fruta. You’ll quintus in Latin–hence they became be tickled to known as quintas. discover this isn’t an ordinary quiosque but With Easter (Páscoa) just around the a tiny trailer in the shape of a perky fruit corner, Susan Korthase and some fly. The atmosphere is super chill, inviting Americans&FriendsPT are on the lookout you to sit a while and take in everything for something resembling a HoneyBaked special about outdoor café living in ham. We were stumped so we turned to Portugal’s capital city. our American living in the Alentejo expert, Maureen Ferguson of Grape Olive Pig. Here’s what she said:

“I asked my purely Portuguese husband Taste the Algarvian Sun about a HoneyBaked-style ham and he looked at me like a deer in the headlights. I Between December and April, stores and stalls are overflowing with fresh, don’t think this type of cooked ham exists juicy, delicious Algarve-grown citrus in Portugal. However, my good friend who fruit. Think oranges, mandarins, is half Portuguese and half British tells me toranjas (grapefruit), lemons, and limes. that there is a British butcher in the Oeiras Citrinos do Algarve PGI (protected area that carries these types of things as geographical indication) are an well as good sausages etc. Also, you might anticipated delight. check Talho do Campo. It’s a French butcher in Campo de Ourique, Lisbon In the Algarve, Portugal’s primary citrus that has fabulous items, including hams growing region, the fruit is left to ripen but probably nothing honey baked.” on the tree, picked at the moment of sweet perfection. And to make things even better, Algarve oranges have a juice content in the neighborhood of 30-50 percent, some of the juiciest Have you ever come across the specimens in the world! abbreviation “q.b.” when reviewing a Portuguese recipe and were stumped? We Next time you have an opportunity to did and found out that q.b.—usually after pick up some of this extraordinary an ingredient—means quanto basta (as citrus, go for it. needed or to taste). For example, sal q.b. is simply salt to taste.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 5

DON’T MISS A SINGLE ISSUE OF

https://RelishPortugal.com FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Ode to the Grocery Store

Lucy Pepper || Illustrator, Animator, Graphic Designer, Writer, and Co-Author of EAT PORTUGAL with Célia Pedroso

Thank heavens for old cities, where it is hard to find a space to stick a supermarket in the city center, for that is how the grocery store survives.

It’s there 12 hours a day, six days a week, waiting for me to remember what I forgot.

After just a few visits, Dona Ana began to tell will offer you the cheapest versions of me to go and get things for myself, even from biscuits, just in case you like them. Behind behind the counter if necessary, when she the counter is the cash register, the new kind was busy with someone else. If she is sitting where you bash the screen with your on a step at the back of the store, doing her knuckle, categorizing everything as you go or accounts, then I can leave her the right scan it with a barcode scanner. It makes her money for the eggs that I have found in the laugh because it only reads the codes mysterious side room. properly half of the time.

The noisy fridge There's a plastic stool for cabinet rattles and anyone who needs it to sit groans all day with its down, and, for much of the odd selection of day, there is one old lady butters, yogurts, wine, or another sitting on it, and fizzy drinks, next waiting while Dona Ana to the freezer cabinet shuttles around the shop, which contains vast finding things for her. The quantities of frozen ladies sit and tell about squid and creamed their latest hospital visit or spinach. It is already their grandchild's problems pretty dark inside the at school, or they just sit, mercearia and it takes exhausted from the heat, a minute for your eyes looking at the tourists who to adjust. To make it come in to ask for things in even darker, a blind is pidgin Spanish because clothes-pegged over they forgot to read the the front door on hot guidebook that tells them days to prevent the sun from ruining the fruit that this is not Spain and that they should try that sits on marble shelves built into the walls to speak pidgin Portuguese. just inside the door. She is the keeper of the gossip, and almost The refrigerated counter, with its cheeses— all of the gossip is about the latest serious good sheep cheese and bad sliced flamengo illness or death. She will be discussing it with —and random packs of cuts of bacon and someone as I walk in and, when that ham belie the secret place where she keeps someone has left, will continue telling the the chorizo. You have to ask for those. She story, without restarting it, to me, as if I have

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 7 known Mr. João (the one with the gammy leg and a daughter in Angola, who died last Thursday) all my life.

There is a basket of sushi seaweed next to the Lucy illustrates, stool. There are English baked beans on the animates, and writes shelves next to the black-eyed peas, which I can many different types of projects and her work go and buy on a bad day when I need comfort has been seen in food. "Why on earth do you sell these?" I once books, newspapers, on television, and in asked. "Oh, there are people around here who went the corporate world over the years. With there and came back with a taste for them ... her Portuguese pal, Célia Pedroso, Lucy they're very popular". Who knew? co-wrote the popular what-to- eat-in-Portugal guidebook, Eat She is the keeper of the emergency herbs. I run in Portugal, now out in four at the end of the day “do you have any languages. Eat Portugal helps coriander?” There's none visible. “Of COURSE!” hungry food lovers discover and hands me a bunch from the mysterious side what the Portuguese love to room into which I only usually venture for the eggs eat, helps with deciphering a which are just inside the door. "How much do I owe menu, and offers over 40 you?" and she waves me off. recipes to try at home.

Grocery stores were all but gone in the suburban Lucy just wrapped up her latest village where I used to live. In the space of ten fascinating project, The Village, a years, four supermarkets were built and wiped all six-part story about a village and the but the most stubborn off the map. The one that people that live there, now available on remained near my house was a godsend to me in her site as well as on Amazon. my early years in Portugal. Not for the things it sold, but for helping to make me part of the community. Célia is the Lisbon Bureau Chief at Culinary Backstreets, is a freelance It is in the grocery store that we have to stand and journalist, and appeared on Netflix’ wait to be served, so we stand and wait and listen Somebody Feed Phil. and learn. We hear the gossip, we work out what people's names are, we become a face that people start to recognize, we say hello to tiny kids and watch them grow up, we learn new vocabulary and vernacular, we become a part of things. I learned to speak more fluently because of my time standing around in the grocery store and I learned more about how people lived, how they did things with the ingredients they took home, how they dealt with their problems, than I ever did pushing a trolley round the supermarket.

In my street in Lisbon, there are three traditional grocery stores (mercearias), a butcher (talho), and a stationery store (papelaria). Inside each of them you can chat and joke and get the chance to start to belong.

And when the boss of the grocery store learns your name and remembers it for next time, you know you have arrived.

8 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

Migas à moda do Alentejo The traditional version of this dish uses very little meat (Alentejo Pork and Bread) but here, Lucy and Célia have added more. Chop meat into small pieces and combine with • 400 gr stale, good quality bread, garlic, salt, and red pepper paste. Allow to torn into large pieces marinate for 8 hours. • 400 gr pork belly or ribs • 150 gr streaky bacon In a deep-sided frying pan, fry bacon over medium • 3 cloves of garlic, chopped heat until crispy. Remove and reserve bacon in a • 2 tbsp red pepper paste shallow baking dish, leave fat in pan. Add meat • salt to taste and marinade to pan and allow to fry slowly, until • 1 orange, sliced, to garnish well cooked and crisp.

Remove meat from pan, again leaving (the now lovely orange colored) fat in pan, adding to the shallow baking dish. Place in oven at a low temperature to keep warm.

Add two cups of hot water to fat and then the bread. Cook, mashing with a fork as the bread softens and soaks up the juices. You may need to add more water as you mash the bread. Keep mashing and turning until the migas starts to become a dry, pulpy mixture. Shape the migas into a flat log, place on a serving platter, and surround with warm meat and bacon. Garnish with orange slices. Tram 28,Eileen McDonough, Lisbon Mosaic Studio Tram

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 9

Medieval WINE VINES Wines

BLACK SHEEP LISBOA WINE AND SPIRIT BAR + their online shop REAL PORTUGUESE WINE bring you wines that are alive with flavor, a window into true terroir, and the bottled essence of a winemaker’s philosophy As the weather transitions from winter to spring, what we want to drink changes as to remove the skins, and the must, or freshly well. When it’s dark, rainy, and chilly we like crushed juice that contains the skins, seeds, to cuddle up with full-bodied reds and hearty and stems of the fruit, is passed through a whites. As the days get longer simple basket for filtering. This and the sun shines a bit brighter, juice is then moved to old (used) our tastes shift, and we have the barrels and ferments for a few perfect transition wine to carry days while the red grapes are us through to Spring. processed (de-stemming, fermentation and skins North of Lisbon between Fatima removed) then the red juice is and Tomar is the town of Ourém. added and they work together to The wine known as the Medieval develop a final co-fermentation. of Ourém has been made using When this joint fermentation is the same methods first used by complete, the solids that remain Cistercian Monks, who taught the will sink to the bottom of the people of Ourém to make wine in barrel, helping to naturally filter this style. It is believed that the the wine. After two months, in monks settled in this area around wood, the wine can be bottled or the 12th century, and that these moved to a stainless steel tank. winemaking methods are over 800 years old. The designation What you end up with is a fresh was officially created in 2005 and and lively light red/rosé style to be called Medieval wine, it wine with lively acidity, bright must come from certified fruit, and lots of structure. Served vineyards, be hand-made and be registered chilled, it is a wonderful apero, and with the governing body. because of the body it perfectly transitions to dinner. Medieval wine is a Medieval wine is made using both red and versatile food wine, and can pair with white grapes, namely the white Fernão Pires grilled bacalhau in olive oil, chicken or grapes (80%), and the red Trincadeira (20%). pork dishes, and is particularly suited In the style of ancient vineyards, most plots for cabrito (baby goat) roasted in the used to grow the grapes for the medieval oven. style are bordered with olive trees as well as fruit trees such as apple, pear, and peach. It Right now our favorite producers of is customary for the producers to use a trellis medieval wine are Carlos Sousa and system named taça with three arms spread Quinta do Montalto. There are only a apart. The grapevines are then pruned, handful of producers in Ourém making leaving short spurs with the occasional this wine and it is a very special and fruiting canes. unique part of Portuguese winemaking heritage. The grapes are harvested and transported separately, with all of the labor done by hand. With the white grapes, a basket press is used

10 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 Sheet Pan Meatballs and Roasted Practice Portuguese’s Chickpeas withYogurt Sauce Piri-Piri HOT Sauce Meatballs: • 6 African Bird’s Eye peppers (you can substitute any other small chili pepper) • 1 kg of ground pork or turkey • 1 red bell pepper • Za’tar, herbs de Provence, herbs to your liking • 6 cloves of garlic • salt and pepper to taste • 60 ml olive oil + more as needed • garlic powder • 60 ml lemon juice 60 ml red wine vinegar Combine ground meat with herbs and salt and • 5 gr smoked paprika pepper until well blended. Form small (golf ball) • salt to taste sized meatballs and place on a sheet pan or • 1 dried bay leaf shallow baking dish. •

Remove the stems from the peppers as Chickpeas (Grão): well as some or all of the seeds and ribs to reduce the spiciness. Add all the • 1 large can of chickpeas ingredients, with the exception of the bay • salt and pepper to taste leaf, to a blender and blend until very • herbs of choice smooth, adding extra olive oil as needed. • smoked paprika, piri-piri—any zing will do

• 1-2 tbsp olive oil Pour into a saucepan and add the bay leaf. Simmer gently for 10 minutes. Taste Drain and rinse the chickpeas, toss in a bowl with and adjust the flavors as needed. Once seasonings and olive oil. Stir to coat and spread cool, remove the bay leaf and pour the around the meatballs. piri-piri sauce into a jar with a lid. It will last a couple weeks in the refrigerator. Yogurt sauce: Add the hot sauce to chicken, rice, soups, • ¾ c plain yogurt or any other dishes • 1 tbsp lemon juice that need a little extra • salt/pepper to taste heat and flavor. Using a sheet pan or very shallow baking dish, put meatballs in the pan and spread the chickpeas around the meatballs. Bake at 200°C Black Sheep Lisboa is Lisbon’s smallest wine bar and garrafeira. They have carefully for about 15 minutes. Check meatballs for curated one of the only selections of doneness and remove when cooked. Continue 100% Portuguese wines in Lisbon baking the chickpeas for another 20 minutes or exclusively dedicated to small independent until they begin to get crispy. producers and genuine experiences.

Prepare the yogurt sauce Praça das Flores, 62, Lisbon, Portugal while the dish is in the Want Black Sheep’s thoughtfully curated oven. wine delivered to your doorstep? Visit their new online shop, Real Portuguese Serve with yogurt sauce, Wine, catering to the natural, organic, piri-piri sauce, and a garnish biodynamic, low-intervention, of fresh chopped herbs. small-producer-wine-lover like you!

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 11

Lost At Sea,80cm mosaicAt tabletop (with iron stand),Eileen McDonough, Lisbon Mosaic Studio Lost

Eileen McDonough, an American expat living in Lisbon since 1994, is a contemporary mosaic artist with work gracing five continents and many private collections. She found early inspiration in Lisbon’s intricate calçadas and is self-taught. Using small shards of broken ceramic tiles and dishes among other found objects she creates original tables, mirrors, trivets, murals, furniture, and sculpture. Budding artists can attend a workshop at Eileen’s Alfama studio, Lisbon Mosaic Studio. Pieces can be purchased or commissioned at her gallery website. Facebook: @lisbonmosaicstudio Instagram: @lisbonmosaics Gallery Website: www.eileenmosaics.com Studio Website: www.lisbonmosaicstudio.com Visit the Lisbon Mosaic Studio at Calçada Conde Penafiel, 9, Alfama, Lisbon, Portugal Traveling the globe with their eclectic parents and working exotic jobs, American sisters Avalon and Sesa Giuliano arrived in Óbidos, Portugal ready to meet any challenges that came their way. A big one for these experienced N New York bakers/caterers? They found that bagels weren't really “a thing” O here. They missed them, started making them, and began sharing them with others. “And here we are. We were suddenly housebound with a couple kids T and to beat back boredom we decided to start baking. Av’s Pastries & Catering has gone gangbusters since we introduced our baking to the public in October 2020,” said Sesa.

F Their lovingly-made line of baked goods R includes not only the New York-style bagels that they’ve become known for but other delicious O baked goods including cheddar bacon M biscuits, coffee cake, doughnuts, and their sought-after cinnamon buns. But this adventure has not been without challenges. It's taken them months to decipher and source basic ingredients. “You take it A for granted, back in the States, that when you need R flour you simply go pick some up,” added Avalon. Figuring out what is what and where to buy it, has O taken quite some time.

U And it’s not always what they expect. For example, they thought they’d found N yeast and got it home only to discover that it was definitely not that kind of yeast. They were thrilled when a Portuguese friend brought them a gift of baking powder and constantly pepper Sena’s Portuguese husband and D mother-in-law with language/translation questions. They made a tactical pie-shift over the holidays with sweet potato pie in place of a pumpkin roll. They’re also preparing to make their own house-made graham crackers, H another item not so easily found in Portugal, as summer approaches. Then there are the atmospheric differences: humidity, water, sea level, salt in E the air, etc. Coming to Portugal from their most recent home in southern R Oregon, they’ve come to learn by trial and error how to produce excellent baked goods in the face of this new chemistry, despite it being completely E different than what they are used to.

ORDER: Order online for pick-up, delivery, or shipping Website: AvsPastries.com Facebook: @avspastries

WHAT ELSE: flavored cream cheese, made-from-scratch

Cinnamon Buns Ready For The Oven cannolis, cheesecakes, and catering

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 13 Miss American Pies Mom’s Amazing Pecan Pie While they didn’t start out to build an American- style bakery, they quickly found their audience. • ¾ c unsweetened full-fat canned coconut Av’s bagels are fabulous because they are milk authentic and include special techniques that • 3 tbsp corn starch come from their great grandmother. Labor • 2 tbsp butter (vegan if you wish) intensive, their bagels require several steps, • 1 ½ c finely chopped pecans taking six hours to produce three dozen. And, as • ¼ c pure maple syrup or agave nectar New York-style bagels are, they’re boiled before • ½ c coconut sugar being baked. Cinnamon buns are another hot • 2 tsp vanilla extract property, sticky and delicious, topped with a • ¼ tsp fine sea salt cream cheese frosting or caramel and walnuts. • 1 (9-inch) prepared pie crust But most of all, the sisters take great pride in giving back to the community. They partner with Preheat the oven to 350°F and parbake the Silver Coast Volunteers, donating foodstuffs that prepared pie crust for 7 minutes. Set it aside haven’t sold, they volunteer as needed, and to cool. spent a good part of the holidays baking and packaging 100 family-size gift bags full of treats. In a measuring cup, combine the coconut They both agree that cooking for people in need milk and cornstarch and whisk until smooth. plays a large role in their lives thanks to their In a saucepan, melt the butter over mother’s inspiration. And think medium heat. Add the pecans and toast about this, “the last thing that for about 30 seconds while stirring those in need get are sweets. Nobody ever thinks ‘hey, life continuously. Pour in the maple syrup, sucks, let's eat a cookie, man’,” coconut sugar, coconut milk mixture, they earnestly say. vanilla and salt. Whisk until smooth. Remove from heat and pour the What won’t they make? mixture into the piecrust, filling to about Portuguese and Portuguese- 1/4-inch below the top. Bake for about style foods. When asked, they 30 minutes, or until filling appears refer people to local businesses. mostly firm when you gently jiggle it. Cool on They understand that they are expatriates and it’s the counter for 2-3 hours, cover, and store in the Portuguese welcoming them into their land. the refrigerator for at least 8 hours, ideally They respect and honor that. overnight. Future Thinking Allow to sit at room temperature for at least one hour before serving. If it’s too cold then it Avalon and Sena have big plans for their future. If will be firm but serving it at room temperature they have their way, they’ll open a storefront makes for the perfect texture. offering free meals to the hungry. They’re also hoping to grow the business enough to hire local delights to tickled expats (and some Portuguese, offer workshops Portuguese as well) across the country. both in person and online, create baking kits, and serve They feel they had to move to Portugal to find up vegetarian comfort food. the American dream, setting up a business and serving an eager population. Neither could But for now, the Óbidos-based have anticipated living in a castle baking bakers spend their time bagels and buns for a passionate clientele. The baking, packing, shipping and/ sky’s the limit. After all, they are “living in a or delivering their delicious castle for the first time—there's no rulebook.” Avalon and Sesa’s mother’s cookbook

LET’S Stocking Your Portuguese TALK Especiarias (Spices)

PRACTICE PORTUGUESE LEARNING STUDIO — Strictly European Portuguese Since 2012

Wondering what the difference is between ervas (herbs) and especiarias (spices)? Simply put, herbs are leaves while spices are seeds, bark, roots, and flowers. In this European Portuguese language lesson we’ll talk about especiarias and cover ervas next time.

Spices are always secas (dried) and come When talking about the Descobrimentos either inteiras (whole) or moídas (ground) Portugueses (Portuguese Discoveries), the into a powder. You can buy them in little Age of Exploration, one is always bound to frascos (jars), saquetas (packets), or mention the spice routes and how valuable sometimes a granel (in bulk)—which is the they were. While their worth was once on cheaper option. However, purchase only par with gold, today they are relatively what you’ll use in six months or less to cheap and always present in our cupboards. maintain their freshness and punchy flavor. Store them away from heat and light and avoid sprinkling open frascos or saquetas over hot, steamy pots.

Pimenta (Pepper)

The most basic pair of seasonings one can use when cooking is sal (salt) and pimento (pepper). There are various types of pepper but the two most used in Portugal are pimento preta (black pepper) and pimento branca (white pepper). White pepper is a bit spicier than black, which has a more rich and complex taste.

Piri-Piri (very hot chili pepper)

Piri-Piri is a very hot variant of the chili pepper that’s very common throughout Portuguese-speaking countries, and was originally cultivated in Mozambique. It is a very small pepper that can be cut to add to marinades or used as a condiment. Supermarkets often carry piri-piri infused olive oil or you can make your own, as restaurants and ‘snack-bars’ usually do.

Colorau (Paprika)

Colorau (Paprika), also known as pimentão-doce (paprika, literally: sweet- pepper), is a very popular spice in Portugal. It’s a popular addition to meat marinades and roasts, and is traditionally used when making Portuguese chouriças (chorizos). It’s also present in the production of certain cheese varieties, giving them a distinct flavor and color.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 15 Erva-doce (Anise seed)

Erva-doce (anise seed) is often confused with funcho (fennel) as they have a very similar appearance and a sweet, licorice-like taste and aroma. “Sweet-grass” is the literal translation of erva-doce, but the seeds are actually the part of the plant we use. Inteiras or moídas, are used in many desserts and Portuguese pastries as well as seasoning for castanhas cozidas (boiled chestnuts).

Cominhos (Cumin)

Another popular spice in Portuguese cooking, cominhos (cumin) is used in morcelas (blood sausage) and other traditional sausages.

Açafrão-da-terra (Turmeric)

Açafrão-da-terra (Turmeric) is commonly referred to as just açafrão but don’t get confused. That’s also the Portuguese translation for ‘saffron’–a different spice altogether.

Canela (Cinnamon)

Canela (Cinnamon) is mainly found in Portuguese desserts and other sweet dishes, usually as a topping. Although not necessary, when eating the famous pastéis de nata, many recommend sprinkling cinnamon powder on top first.

Round out your spice rack with caril (curry), gengibre (ginger), cravinho (clove), and noz-moscada (nutmeg).

“Like having a personal tutor”, "visibly stunned”, and “absolutely essential” are just a few of the glowing recommendations for the online learning resource, Practice Portuguese Learning Studio. Rui, Joel and their team specialize in strictly European Portuguese, offering over 400 lessons with more added frequently. Listen to dialogue and learn with native European Portuguese speakers, test your pronunciation with their speaking tool, master verbs, and quiz yourself.

European Portuguese is a beautiful language that deserves to be made easily accessible to learners worldwide. Visit PracticePortuguese.com, review their free material, and check out their affordable and effective membership program.

16 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 MY TOWN: DYLAN LIVING THE SIMPLE LIFE IN HERHOLDT PORTUGAL A teacher in South Africa, here he’s the sales manager for Portugal Realty, helping people find their homeplace, a perfect location for their particular needs, Hailing from South Africa and along the Silver Coast. And he certainly knows his way arriving on Portuguese shores 10 around, having lived in Sao Martinho do Porto, Nazaré, years ago, Dylan Herholdt’s time Alfeizerao, Nadadouro, and Praia do in Portugal has evolved from a Bom Sucesso on the south-side of lovely expat experience to life as Óbidos Lagoon. Meeting with people a Portuguese citizen. Upon from all across the globe and being arrival, he was firm with himself in part of their expat excitement is regards to learning the language contagious. Seeing Portugal through (a requirement for citizenship) the eyes of his clients is almost like seeing it for the first and found that discipline put him time again. They quickly learn one of the pleasures he’s in good stead, able to pass the come to love, the Portuguese don’t rush lunch or coffee. A2 language test and develop Things may take a bit longer here but they are done right deep relationships. with honor and kindness.

Living with his family, including He also hosts and produces the weekly ‘Portugal - The three children, just outside the Simple Life’ podcast, showcasing everything wonderful hilltop town of Óbidos, The about Portugal. He interviews interesting guests and astonishing high-quality of life in shines light on what makes this country so amazing, Portugal and the safety and speaking to wine makers, wedding planners, calmness of the country has businessmen, mayors, surfers, sporting icons, normal made quite a lasting and lovely people who have moved here, and the odd celebrity, too. impression on him. He sees the The conversations always tend to go in the same Portuguese as, “truly unique, direction—food, wine, coffee, and Portuguese people. going out of their way to help you and expecting nothing in return. Recognizing his little piece of paradise, the tiny village of Generally, if someone says that Bairro Senhora da Luz, just a few minutes away from they will do something, they do Óbidos Castle, is so diverse, it’s been his pleasure to it.” Even after all these years, discover that there really is something for just about Dylan is still star-struck by his anyone here—gastronomy, nature, beaches, golf, history, adopted country. cultural events, and of course the castle.

From local traditions to local strolls, Dylan generously shared some of his not-to- be-missed favorites with the Relish Portugal tribe:

Fab Food & Bev: O Melro, in our little village, is family-run, local, well-priced, and delicious; there is no better place to take a coffee than at your local café. Ask for ‘um café’ and don’t forget to greet everyone with a friendly ‘bom dia’ or ‘boa tarde’.

Inside the Castle Walls: Catch a cultural event such as the International Chocolate Festival, Medieval Market, and my favorite, the Buskers Festival; surprise yourself with the quirky, quality artisan shops; try Óbidos’ famous local drink, ginja, anywhere inside the castle walls, served in an edible chocolate cup.

Take a Walk: On the western side of the castle, the walk to and from the chapel Ermida de Santo Antao and the view over the countryside and to the castle is sensational; walk the castle walls and enjoy the magnificent views over red roofs and the surrounding countryside.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 17 R Dylan Herholdt’s Arroz de Pato (DUCK RICE) TWICE Duck Rice I 1/2 duck, cut into pieces AS 1 medium onion, chunked 1 chouriço sausage duck fat taken from the duck pan 200 gr smoked ham or bacon C NICE 2 c Agulha (long grain) rice 1 carrot, sliced into medium thick coins 4 c duck cooking liquid 1 large onion, chunked ¼ tsp salt E 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 1 dried bay leaf Make the Rice ½ c Port Wine Make the Duck freshly-ground pepper to taste In a medium saucepan with a lid, prepare rice by sautéing the medium onion in duck Place duck, chorizo, ham, carrot, onion, garlic, bay leaf, fat removed from the duck pan. and Port in a large saucepan. Add enough water to Supplement with olive oil if necessary. cover the duck. Season with pepper and simmer for 45 Rinse rice in cold water until water runs minutes or until duck is falling off the bone. clear and add the rice to the pan so it “fries” slightly. Add four cups of duck cooking Remove cooked duck, pick from bone, and shred. Cut liquid, supplemented with water to make six thick slices of chouriço and then chop the remaining that amount if necessary, and salt. Cover, chouriço and ham into bit-sized pieces. Reserve the bring to a boil, and turn heat all the way cooking liquid, straining if you wish. down. Simmer for 10 minutes or until the

rice is cooked. Make the Arroz de Pato

In a baking dish layer rice, duck, chouriço, ham, and rice. Tamp down to flatten but not compress. Arrange the chouriço slices on top and bake at 350°F/180°C for 10-15 minutes or until the rice is golden brown. Serve hot, in the company of the whole family.

Chocolate Master Araújo’s Arroz de Polvo (OCTOPUS RICE)

Octopus Rice Octopus 4 tbsp olive oil 1 kg octopus 1 medium onion, chopped 1 large onion, unpeeled 3 cloves of garlic, chopped 1 c red wine 2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped OR 1 small can of whole 1 dried bay leaf peeled tomatoes 1 c Carolino (short grain) rice Clean and wash octopus and ¼ tsp salt place in a large saucepan with red pepper to taste wine, unpeeled onion, and bay 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) leaf. Add water to cover octopus (be aware that the octopus will In a large saucepan, heat oil and sauté onion. When soft, add garlic release liquid as it’s cooked— and tomatoes, simmering for a few minutes. Add the rice, octopus, leave room accordingly), bring to a salt and pepper, and enough of the cooking liquid to completely boil, turn down to simmer for 25 cover the octopus and rice (approximately 2 ½ cups). Stir, cover, minutes. Remove octopus and cut bring to a boil and turn heat all the way down. Simmer for 10 into bite-sized, uniform pieces. minutes or until the rice is cooked, remove from heat and allow to sit Reserve the cooking liquid. for five minutes. Sprinkle with coriander and serve.

18 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

PORTUGUESE MAKERS In Vila Verde love is in the air… every sight and every sound.

According to Portuguese tradition, especially in the north of the country and in particular the Minho region, young women of marriageable age found a subtle way to signal interest to their intended: Lenços dos Namorados– Request Handkerchiefs. Also known as Boyfriend Scarves or Valentine’s Handkerchiefs and full of secret symbols, the gals would embroider a fine linen cloth or cotton scarf with sweet messages written as spoken, often including an imperfect command of the written word resulting in quaint misspellings. They would use symbols like a rose meaning woman; a heart for love; a lily signifying virginity; a red carnation expressing flirtation and provocation; and doves as the symbol of a couple in love.

Once completed, the Request Handkerchief would be accidentally “dropped” in front of the young man of interest. Depending upon whether or not the scarf was worn in public, the beginning of a love relationship was decided. More recently, these tokens of love were given to young men as they began their journey to fight in the Colonial (Overseas) War (1961-74). The scarves are associated with stories of happy or less blissful loves, overwhelming passions or simple momentary glows of budding passion.

Today, this intrinsic handicraft, with ancestral colors and motifs, preserves a tradition that fosters artistic, cultural, and heritage value. The area’s identity has been revived and has found a place among authentic products of great interest to today’s consumers. Handicraft cooperatives have significantly helped to revive regional embroidery, providing the women that create these beautiful pieces of traditional art not only a creative outlet but a means of income as well.

Opened in Vila Verde in 1988, the Less than 16km north of Braga on Aliança Artesanal (Craft Alliance) N101, Aliança Artesanal serves up a combination of family co-operative is a renovated farming and the arts and artists of architectural space preserving and safeguarding the tradition the village of Vila Verde. And of cultural know-how that is irreplaceable. There you can when we talk about Vila Verde we see the “Lenços de Namorados Collection”, learn about how are talking about Valentine's they are made, and bring home a piece of Portugal’s past Handkerchiefs. You can also visit and present. them on Facebook.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 19

According to the US’s National Confectioners Association, the fruit of the cacao tree is a football-shaped pod that comes in various colors depending on genetics and degree of ripeness—green, yellow, orange, red, purple or maroon. Cacao pods range from eight to 14 inches long and grow directly from the tree’s main branches and trunk, not from a stem like an apple. The pod’s outer covering can run the gamut from thin to thick, soft to woody, smooth to leathery to warty to ridged. Inside each pod is sweet white pulp and juice—which can be used to make drinks with a sweet, mild flavor—covering 50 to 60 seeds. The Secret Ingredient Is Always Chocolate

Chocolate is an international language, including the whimsical, widespread language of love. But that’s not how it began. The cacao pod, its beans, and the delicious concoction we call chocolate have been considered medicinal, body and soul strengthening, giving of life and fertility, an aphrodisiac, and even currency throughout its long and rich history.

For many decades, even centuries, chocolate consumption was considered appropriate only for royalty and rulers. In the 1200s, it’s said that the Aztec emperor Montezuma drank 50 golden goblets of a thick, unsweetened, dyed-red elixir called xocoatl (bitter water) each day. The Spaniards added sugar, vanilla, and spices to the bitter beverage in 1528, creating a fashionable drink for nobility. Marie-Antoinette arrived at the French Court in 1770 with her own chocolate maker, dubbed “Chocolate Maker to the Queen,” expressly to please her majesty with a variety of elaborately-flavored drinking chocolates. It wasn’t until 1847 that chocolate was made into a solid confectionary, complements of a British chocolate maker. By the early 1900s, Europe and America were producing melt in your mouth chocolate confections to be enjoyed by any and all that could pony up the price at the till.

With the opening of The Chocolate Story in Porto’s new World of Wine complex, Relish Portugal sat down with Chef and Chocolate Master (Mestre de Chocolate) Pedro Martins Araújo to learn more about the most well-loved sweet treat in the world and his artisan passion, Vinte Vinte Chocolate.

Relish Portugal: Just in time for the season of love, congratulations on no surprise that chefs are passionate your wonderful new chocolate about raw ingredients and in cacao I venture, Vinte Vinte Chocolates. How found the perfect ingredient. To me, did your love for chocolate come it’s much more than high-quality cuts about? of meat or the freshest fish or Portugal’s bounty of vegetables. Chocolate Master Araújo: I like to Cacao is complex with a depth of say that chocolate picked me. As a flavor and possibility. Culturally, it’s chef, hotel management and tourism revered as something holy in Mexico professional, and a certified expert in and Guatemala where it’s enjoyed the cacao and chocolate field, I’ve from a young age as a beverage. In done my fair share of consulting with Europe and North America it’s and developing food businesses. It’s different, chocolate is candy, a treat.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 21

When I found an ingredient with this level challenging. First, you have to find the of sophistication and the relationship with right beans. Next is fermentation. If humankind and began tasting it, finding cacao beans are not properly fermented, that it is so complex aromatically, I knew the technical reactions, the balancing of I’d found my holy grail. flavors, will never happen, you’ll never have an RP: Your chocolate bar aromatic cacao. Then you brand is Vinte Vinte or must develop a roasting Twenty Twenty. As in perfect profile for that specific bean vision? and try to figure out which type of chocolate that bean CMA: Interesting but no. will be best as. Not all are Vinte Vinte is a formal good as milk chocolate or homage to the parallels of dark chocolate. You have to the Cacao Belt. It’s a tribute go back to the lab and study to the countries that the bean in very different produce some of the finest ways to discover the correct cacao, grown on the latitude roasting profile and recipe position of 20°N and 20°S of to develop good chocolate. the equator. This is the most ideal environmental At our factory, inside The condition for the cacao tree to develop Chocolate Story Museum, visitors can and bear fruit, but more importantly, see the entire bean-to-bar process produce fruit of the best quality. behind a glass wall, learn the backstory of cacao, taste and purchase our high- Our chocolate is made using a bean-to- quality, affordable bars. bar process. We get cacao from all over the world, some I choose personally. I RP: What should people look for when recently traveled to Nicaraguan, choosing chocolate? Mexican, and Guatemalan farms in CMA: People have a search of the finest flavor fixed idea about and highest quality chocolate. In reality, cacao. The average chocolate can be many consumer doesn’t know different diverse flavors, that many big brands much more than one don’t actually make idea. As you’d expect, chocolate. Someone industrial chocolate is roasted/toasted cacao extremely different than beans for them and Vinte Vinte’s bean-to-bar ground them into a product. Why? That pre- mass. They start there, made, bulk mass used in making their chocolates industrial chocolate has out of what’s sometimes no flavor or aroma at all. called cacao liquor. The beans are roasted at high temperatures Making chocolate out of requiring them to use a beans is quite a bit more lot of vanilla to disguise

22 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

what’s missing. Every single time a person tastes a bean-to-bar chocolate it is a taste sensation. The flavor is so special they never forget their first taste of bean-to-bar chocolate. Remarkable.

Which chocolate should they have? The advice I give is for people to understand artisan chocolate will be memorable, different than what they’ve perhaps tasted in the past. I encourage them to discover the flavor profiles that they enjoy the most and experiment.

RP: What’s your favorite chocolate?

CMA: I choose my chocolate by the feeling it gives me. Look, I’ve tasted thousands of chocolates throughout my life. I’m not a benchmark. That being said, I’m always looking for chocolate with “corners”—looking for an effect, nothing boring. I like acidic chocolate. That could be 50% or 100% cacao content. Primarily, I’m looking for flavor and aroma. Interestingly, terroir—the same concept of place of origin as used when tasting fine wine—is usually 50% of the flavor.

RP: I’m sorry, let’s back up, you’ve tasted thousands of chocolates?

CMA: Right, thousands. But remember, I’ve been doing this for many years. In my experience, developing a roasting profile is critical. I have seven bean-to-bar chocolates in the Vinte Vinte line. It took me nearly 400 lab trials to develop those seven distinctive chocolates. Cacao begins to lose its magical compounds as it’s roasted close to and above 150°C degrees. You have to test and test and test to see which aromas to keep and which to lose. If you roast too high it will taste burned, too low it’ll taste like raw cacao. Each step in the chocolate-making process is important, but roasting is the most essential.

RP: What about Portugal, what chocolate is most loved here?

CMA: Europeans consume about 2kg per person/per year whereas in the US, it’s closer to 4-5kg per person/per year. Dark chocolate (50%-70%) is what’s most loved, especially in Southern Europe. Interestingly, almost half of the chocolate sold worldwide is in this percentage range. 70% is usually the magic number.

Vinte Vinte makes a wide range of chocolate, from 35% up to our Intense Peru 100%. For several years this extremely

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 23

rare Peruvian variety was considered lost until Dan Pearson and Brian Horsely discovered cacao trees of this variety in small isolated farms in Marañón. This remote horseshoe-shaped gorge creates a unique microclimate, where trees grow at an altitude of between 1,000 and 1,250 meters, producing delightfully different flavored chocolate with both floral and vegetable notes.

RP: I’m always getting cacao and cocoa confused. What’s the skinny?

CMA: These two competing terms only arise in English. Everywhere else the term “cacao” is used. The origin story? Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus studied drawings of cacao pods, the actual fruit was not available to him. Because it resembled a coconut, he began calling it cacao. Today, in English, this is how you determine whether the fruit is fresh (cacao) or roasted (cocoa).

RP: Vinte Vinte has several different bars to choose from but I want to know more about the Grand Cru. Tell me.

CMA: Okay. Vinte Vinte offers four different collections from Classic to our vintage Grand Cru. While our collection includes chocolate made with beans from Madagascar, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic, Uganda, and Venezuela, our vintage Grand Cru is made from single- origin beans harvested in 2019. As I mentioned earlier, terroir plays a large part in this chocolate. One variety, one farm, one arbor. It’s a 70% dark, famed for its color and aromatic flavors.

This vintage chocolate is fabulous paired with Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port 2012. That’s part of our just launched Chocolate and Port Pairing Workshop. Because both chocolate and port wine are rich in tannins, both are fermented in wood which adds even more tannins to both. One might think that these two wonders of mankind would be impossible to pair but due to the high content of cacao butter present in dark chocolate, this paring becomes wonderfully balanced.

During the two-hour event, we explain how chocolate is made, how port is made, and how to pair and taste the two together. We close the workshop with five chocolate/port pairings that I’ve personally curated. I conduct the workshop once a month at our World of Wine facility in Porto and it costs €50/person.

RP: Last question. Is there a fun fact or lesser-known piece of chocolate lore you can leave us with?

24 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

CMA: Hmmm. Since our talk will appear in the January/February/March issue of Relish Portugal, let’s talk love. In Central America, before proposing to his desired, a young man will visit her father to ask for her hand in marriage, bearing chocolate as a gift. That’s love in any language.

Sneak Peek Into Chocolate Master Araújo’s Chocolate and Port Pairing Workshop

For a perfect marriage when pairing Port Wine and chocolate one needs to consider the following: acidity, sweetness, salt, tannins, and oak. To balance the acidity one can use fat. It just so happens that chocolates— even if acidic—and especially those with high cocoa content are rich in fat. This makes for an ideal pairing with the sweetness of a Port Wine. Which in turn brings us to one of the many characteristics of Port Wine: it’s rich in natural sugars. Dark chocolate is low in sugar making it bitter and more acidic. These three aspects—the high, fatty cocoa content, sweetness, and acidity—combine to make this a marvelous pairing. The sweetness of the wine will smooth the bitterness and the acidity of the dark chocolate, allowing the wine and the chocolate to reveal their full aromatic complexities. Another wonderful way to pair dark chocolate is with salt and Port Wine. Salt enhances the tannins, and dark chocolate is rich in tannins, but when paired with Port Wine, the alcohol present will soften the tannins in turn enhancing the sugars present both in the chocolate and the Port Wine, transforming these in one of the most amazing pairings.

Chocolate Wine Gran Cru México 70% Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port 2012

Peru 100% Taylor's Chip Dry White Port NV

Madagáscar 85% Fonseca Terra Prima Organic Port NV

Nicarágua 75% Wiese & Krohn Colheita Tawny Port 2007

Républica Dominicana 65% Taylor's 10 Year Old Tawny Port

Uganda 55% Fonseca 10 Year Old Tawny Port

Venezuela 45% Croft 10 Year Old Tawny Port

Chocolate Branco Croft Pink Rosé Port NV

Chocolate Leite Croft Reserve Tawny Port NV

Negro 58% Taylor's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2014

Negro 70% Fonseca Bin 27 Reserve Port NV

Vinte Vinte delivers the world of chocolate, full of flavor. Watch Chocolate Master Araújo create bean-to-bar artisanal chocolate, tour the chocolate exhibit, attend a tasting workshop, and bring home a variety of choice chocolates at the Chocolate Story in Porto’s World of Wine complex. From their Infusion Collection to the Grand Cru, each piece of chocolate is lovingly crafted with passion and expertise. Available in store and online. Learn more on their website, Facebook or Instagram.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 25

JohnLennon, 80x80 mosaic, Eileen McDonough, Lisbon Mosaic Studio

Soup’s On:

The Definitive Guide To Portugal’s Traditional Soup Scene

Portugal is a country of olive oil, bread, and wine. And of these three, usually, two go into soup. Speaking of Portuguese gastronomy without talking about soup is possible but incomplete.

Soup is part of most Portuguese people’s day-to-day life (even though we are eating less soup than we were 30 years ago). The repertoire of Portuguese recipes is not only old and varied, but it is also a valuable treasure that helps us to understand the history, geography, and anthropology of its many regions.

AMASS. COOK. || Bruna Carvalho and Maria Sena || Tales About Portuguese Food and Wine

28 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 If we consider the discovery of fire, and that the first culinary technique was roasting meat or other foodstuffs over a fire, boiling was in all likelihood one of the immediately succeeding techniques to be developed. Naturally, with the boiling of meat, fish or vegetables, comes broth… and soup.

The concept of soup is not hard to define; soup is a liquid food of variable consistency, that results from the boiling of foods in water, and is composed of solid parts (vegetables, meat, fish, bread, etc.) and a liquid part, which is called broth. It is, in its essence, a simple and highly nutritious food.

BROTHS (CALDOS) & BREAD SOUPS From the broths we find throughout Portugal, we see in further detail the caldo de unto as Broth (caldo) may be defined as the liquid well as the canja de galinha below. There are part of the soup, simply the water from boiling many others to point out, such as the caldo foodstuffs, or otherwise a soup with a very de castanhas piladas (chestnut broth) from thin consistency, that may or may not contain Minho, which is traditionally savored on Lent chopped up ingredients. In the case of Fridays or St. Bartholomeu’s day. Also from Portuguese soups, the usefulness of this is Minho comes the caldo de rabo de boi (oxtail dubious. Some recipes are called broth but broth), while the canja de perdiz (partridge are nothing like a broth) is from Trás-os-Montes. Also broth. enjoyed is Lisbon’s caldeta de amêijoas (clam broth). The word soup comes from the As for bread soups, in Portugal, the Germanic term more the merrier. As mentioned “suppa” which means before, the use of bread to turn the “piece of bread broth into soup is primitive, probably soaked in liquid” and millenary, particularly in the by extension “broth Mediterranean region. Bread is one poured over bread”. It of the cornerstones of the Southern is therefore assumed European diet, and Portugal, with all that bread is the its rich and diverse ancient base for bread-making soup, thickening and giving texture to history, is no the broth through its starches. Soup exception. More became an important source of than a vehicle to repurposing old bread and avoiding any filling, bread food waste. There are, of course, other served as a bases for soups, general starches, or pivotal energy dairy that thicken the broth. source for countless A few centuries ago, broths were also generations. To considered medicine, and we can find illustrate its (sometimes quite bizarre) broth recipes importance, we for all kinds of ailments, such as “broth can quote as an for chest inflammations” or “viper broth to example the life of a 17th-century fieldworker: purify the blood” or even “frog and snail broth he/she would eat as much as 1 kilogram of for dry cough”. All of these and many more bread a day, besides broth, vegetables, a are found in “Cozinheiro Moderno” by Lucas little meat or fish, and a lot of wine. Rigaud (1780).

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 29 The respect for bread was unquestionable, so it was wise to avoid its waste to the maximum. Thus, far and wide throughout the ÁGUA OU CALDO DE UNTO country, old and stale bread was included in a myriad of repurposing recipes, from savory North and Beira Alta to sweet. The use of bread in soups and migas was presumably the most Água de unto—literally “fat water”—is a common. classic and ancestral broth that we can observe in the region of Minho, but also If we reflect upon which bread soup most Trás-os-Montes. Água de unto is nothing commonly crosses the Portuguese mind, we more than water that boils with unto (fat that might come upon the conclusion that it is the can be found between the pig’s nipples and humble and delectable açorda, which we will the peritoneum), onion, and olive oil, to describe more attentively below. which bread is finally added, and sometimes Nonetheless, we’ll find specimens like eggs. Besides thrifty, this is a light soup that the ferventados from Beira Litoral, which are traditionally was served as breakfast for field very simple bread soups made by boiling fish workers and shepherds. A similar broth is the like codfish and sardines, meat like lamb or caldo de unto from Beira Alta, which does pig bones, or even vegetables. Sopas not contain bread, but instead, eggs. secas (“dry soups”), which use the leftovers of the traditional cozido also have bread as a star ingredient. Other examples include sopa de lebre (hare soup) and sopa de pão com tomate (bread and tomato soup) from the Algarve, sopa de alheiras (alheira sausage soup) from Trás-os-Montes, sopa da panela (“pot” soup), and the sargalheta from the Alentejo. However, there are countless Portuguese soups that integrate bread with more or less emphasis, simply because bread is an essential and ubiquitous ingredient.

CANJA DE GALINHA

Countrywide

Canja de galinha (chicken broth) is probably the best-known Portuguese broth. Beloved by many, avoided by some (who associate it with being sick), canja is a timeless broth that crosses generations and social strata. Some people will swear upon its healing properties for the ill and its nutritional qualities.

The recipe is, as you would expect, simple. The broth is prepared by boiling a chicken with a series of seasonings and, finally, adding rice (more recently, small pasta or even tapioca) that will cook in the broth. The dish may be garnished with mint leaves, strips of chicken meat and offal,

30 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 with delicious unlaid eggs (immature eggs profoundly aromatic character and a singular that are still inside the chicken). There are consistency created by the bread. other canjas throughout Portugal, like the canja de bacalhau (codfish) or the canja de GASPACHO and ARJAMOLHO conquilhas (bean clam). Alentejo and Algarve It is believed that the canja originally came from Southeast Asia, the fruit of the voyages Now, for a (cold) bread soup that reminds us of the Portuguese during the of summer, we have the gaspacho. Not to be Discoveries. Conjee, or rice broth, is eaten confused with its Andalucian counterpart throughout most of Asia, but its origin is (one has to exchange an “s” for a “z”), the believed to be in India. It was probably in Alentejo’s gaspacho has its distinctive Goa that the Portuguese first came into features. The biggest of which is possibly the contact with this broth, which is still very fact that it is not crushed. According to the relished in the region. monumental Traditional Portuguese Cooking by Maria de Lourdes Modesto, to AÇORDA ALENTEJANA make a gaspacho you need to smash garlic and salt, add some olive oil, vinegar, Alentejo oregano, some crushed and cubed To better understand tomato, as well as the açorda’s origin, cucumber, and thinly one needs to cut bell pepper. All is remember the arrival then submerged in of the Moors in the cold water and bread Iberian Peninsula in cubes are added the 8th century AD. when served. In the The Arabs introduced Algarve we not only an find arjamolho, which immeasurably is similar valuable agricultural to gaspacho, but with heritage but also a different ingredient far-reaching proportions. gastronomical legacy that lasts until this day. In it, we can identify Both the gaspacho and the arjamolho as we the tharîd (“shredded soaked bread” in Arab), now know them are of ancient origin, but the or ath-thurda, in the Andaluz dialect, which is appearance of bell peppers and tomato in believed to be the father figure of the açorda. Portugal only dates back to the 16th century, when the Spanish first brought them from Strictly speaking, the açorda is a leftover South America to Europe. Both soups are meal, in which the pauper’s creativity finds believed to be much older than that and thus glory. The base is always the same. In a made with the same ingredients, except for simpler version, it is composed of stale the South American fruits. bread, as well as garlic and salt that are smashed in a pestle and mortar. Then, all is MEAT SOUPS doused with boiling water and seasoned with olive oil and herbs like cilantro and Meat soups are an important part of pennyroyal. Poached eggs are also usually Portuguese cuisine. More substantial, and added. From thereon, one may add other quite naturally, richer, meat soups can be a ingredients such as codfish, river fish, or meal in themselves. sardines. It is a brothy soup with a

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 31 To make meat soups, Portuguese cooks may gather ingredients from the cow barn, the pig pen, the chicken coop, or even from the wilderness. The source of protein is varied and depends on the region. However, it wouldn’t be surprising that most Portuguese soups are based on pork, either fresh or smoked/cured, and more than often, the swine are used from snout to tail. As examples, we may look to the jantar de matança (slaughter’s dinner) from Beira Baixa, which contains bones, bacon, skin, and chouriço or the mythical and substantial sopa da pedra (stone soup) from Ribatejo and the sopa dos ossos da cabeça de porco (pig’s head bones soup) from Beira Litoral. Not to mention the sopas de cozido and the sopas secas, which we will discuss further below.

There are also meat soups with various sources of protein, such as the gluttonous sopa do Espírito Santo (soup of the Holy Spirit) from Açores, notably from Ilha Terceira and Faial, which contains beef meat, liver, and blood as well as chicken, mint, cinnamon, cabbage, and other bits and bobs. As far as game such as pork liver and lung as well as boiled meat soups go, we have the example of pork blood, chicken, and thickened with Algarve’s and Alentejo’s sopas de lebre (hare cornflour. Other examples include the sopa soup), as well as the sopa de de sangue (blood soup) from Trás-os- perdiz (partridge soup) and sopa de pombo- Montes, the laburdo from Beira Interior, and bravo (wild pigeon soup) from Trás-os- the sopa de sarapatel from the Alentejo (in Montes. this case using lamb or goatling blood). In general, these are soups that are usually BLOOD SOUPS associated with the animal slaughter season, but also on special occasions, like Countrywide eating sarapatel on Easter in Castelo de Vide. The use of the entire animal is one of the pivotal features of Portuguese cuisine. SOPA DE COZIDO and SOPAS SECAS Soups are no exception to this rule and we can find examples throughout the country. Countrywide For example, the sopa de miolos de porco (pork brain soup), sopa de The cozido is an omnipresent dish in all orelheira (pork ear soup) from Trás-os- Portuguese territories but it is not uncommon Montes, or the sopa de rabo de boi (oxtail’s in other areas of Europe (e.g. the soup) from Lisbon. French pot-au-feu), with variations in content. In Portugal, it is usually composed However, one of the ingredients that of a selection of the best local meats, either commonly appears in Portuguese soups is fresh or cured (where it can get very blood. There is no need to tie comparisons to specialized). This is an old dish, potentially the infamous Spartan black soup, as the with Jewish heritage—of course, without Portuguese versions are true delights (and pork. Beyond meats, it includes vegetables not frights). We can immediately pinpoint that mirror the vegetable patches of the the sopas de sarrabulho (Minho) in their region, such as different cabbages, carrots, several variants, made with organ meats potatoes, turnips, and chickpeas, as well as other variants.

32 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 The various components are boiled and the precious and nutritious broth that remains is wisely used for some side dishes such as arroz de cozido (cozido rice), and more importantly, the sopa de cozido (cozido soup).

The sopa de cozido is a tasty and simple broth rich in meaty, smoky, vegetable flavors, and is an amalgamation of warm and comforting flavors that reminds us of a hearth in the winter months. Better still, the broth can survive to create another meal, which is a leftover dish called sopa seca (dry soup). The sopa seca takes advantage of the leftovers from the cozido, by chopping up the meats and vegetables and placing them in a clay container, then covered with bread and broth, and placed in the oven to crisp. There is also a sweet version of sopa seca, so be careful not to mix them up!

RANCHO

North

Rancho is another classical northern meat soup and is commonly eaten as a main dish on cold winter days, given the robustness of its composition. There are different recipes according to the region (Viseu, Trás-os-Montes or Minho), but in general, rancho is made up of chickpeas, potatoes, pork, cow, or chicken meat, cured meats, sausage, pasta, as well as carrots and cabbage.

VEGETABLE SOUPS

Vegetable and legume soups are common throughout the country and play a big role in the Portuguese diet. These soups are made with horticultural products from all regions but also with wild plants. When it isn’t a role for bread, vegetable soups are often thickened with potatoes, in the old days chestnuts, and more recently using chayote, a small gourd from Central America, or otherwise with squash puree.

Portuguese soups use practically all cultivars, encompassing legumes of all colors, all sorts of greens, tubers, fruits, roots, and sprouts. Sometimes, these soups are indiscriminate, a mixture of any available greens which we would call “sopa de legumes” (legume soup)—which is only accurate when it contains legumes!

In the past, vegetable soups would have been a faithful reflection of each home’s vegetable garden, adapting to the seasons and the outcome of the crops. The vegetable garden represented an important role in the family’s diet and was always a guarantee of food in times of scarcity.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 33 Some notable or curious examples of vegetable soups are the illustrious caldo verde (kale and potato soup) from Minho, sopa de tomate (tomato soup) from Alentejo, sopa de feijão frade (black- eyed pea soup) and the requentado from Ribatejo, sopa de trigo (wheat soup) and sopa de moganga from Madeira (made from moganga pumpkin also known as chila or gila). There’s also the lesser-known sopa de chícharos (grass pea) from Estremadura and even sopa de casúlas (bean pod soup) from Trás-os-Montes.

CALDO VERDE WILD SOUPS

Minho Countrywide

The unquestionable icon of Although they are becoming scarce Minho’s gastronomy, caldo in current menus, traditional verde is uncontested royalty. Portuguese cuisine incorporates Served at any gathering, best many recipes with wild plants. The friend of a grilled sardine, caldo reason for the inclusion of these verde is a symbol of traditional wild ingredients—especially in Portuguese soups. Without regional cuisines that heavily rely on surprise, it became popular these plants, as is the case of also in Brazil. Alentejo—is that throughout several moments in history, the population The name—green broth—isn’t found itself in need, and in shortage. a tell. It’s not (strictly speaking) Creativity and invention arose. a broth, and it’s only partly green (also yellow). Made with Thus, plants, roots, fungi, and herbs a base of potato, onion, and that otherwise would be disregarded garlic, which are smashed, were stifling hunger and turning into finely shredded Galician kale is singular dishes. In Portuguese added, just before the soup is soups, we may find the use of ready. The soup is then watercress, nettles, purple garnished with a slice amaranth, beet, curly dock, spinach, of chouriço or salpicão for fennel, purslane, asparagus, golden flavor, and a little more olive thistle, and mushrooms—which are oil. And then, of course, we fungi not plants—like túberas need some sliced broa (thick (truffle-like fungi) or yellow knight. cornbread) in close range. There is also an enormous variety Little is known of the true age of spontaneous aromatic plants that of caldo verde, as Galician kale are also used in Portuguese soups, has grown for centuries in the such as pennyroyal, many varieties Minho region, but potatoes of thyme, mint, bay, pennyroyal, and have only been grown there oregano amongst others. since the 16th century. It’s to be determined whether a caldo But back to soups: in Trás-os- verde without potato would Montes, we can find wild soups have been possible or if it were such as sopa de beldros (purple rather made with bread, or amaranth soup) or sopa de even chestnuts, which were urtigas (nettle soup), while in Beira then switched to potato. Interior, we can find sopa de

34 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 poejos (pennyroyal soup) and sopa de within the waters that surround their fiolho (fennel soup). In the Alentejo, sopa de respective regions. But not even the great túberas com ovos (truffle-like fungi and egg distance to the coast compromised the soup), sopa de carrasquinhas (golden thistle appearance of marine seafood in interior soup), and sopa de beldroegas (purslane regions. Dried fish soups appeared, soup) are eaten. As expected, there are especially in areas where only river fish like many other examples, more or lesser trout or nase could be found fresh. Dried fish documented, throughout the country. was commonly sold in fairs and markets and stored throughout the year. In the long list of SEAFOOD SOUPS Portuguese soups, we see multiple sopas de bacalhau (codfish soups) that pop up all over The intimate relationship between Portugal the country but also sopa de solha and the ocean easily translates into soups. seca (dried sole soup) from Lanhelas We can find seafood soups from north to (Minho), sopa de sardinha de south, even in areas that historically barrica (barreled sardine soup), sopa de struggled to find marine fish. congro (conger eel soup), sopa de peixe Fishermen, unsurprisingly, played a great seco (dried fish soup) from Trás-os-Montes, role in seafood recipes. In their boats, or sopa de sarda (mackerel soup) and sopa fishermen prepared meals with fish or fish de cação (dogfish soup) from the Alentejo, parts that were commercially expendable and despite nowadays the use of fresh dogfish later scattered these recipes within their and conger eel being more common. hometown communities. Migratory fish—and thus seasonal—also Logically, traditional fish and shellfish soup have a special feature in some parts of the recipes mostly feature species that are found country. It’s the case of Aveiro’s sopa de

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 35 enguia (eel soup) or even the sopa de lampreia (lamprey soup), made from that frightfully delicious cyclostome that is so prized in the Minho, as is the bony allis shad (sopa de sável).

Whilst speaking of seafood, which is also plentiful on the Portuguese table, we have examples of soups coming from Lisbon like sopa de camarão (shrimp soup) or sopa de ostras (oyster soup), from the Algarve, which is the case of canja de conquilhas (bean clam broth) and sopa de lingueirão (razor clam soup), as well as sopa de lapas (limpet soup) from Apúlia (Minho).

CHORA DE BACALHAU

Regions inhabited by cod fishermen

The Portuguese codfish fishermen that ventured into the cold seas of the north, in particular into the waters of the Sea of Labrador and the Atlantic Ocean surrounding Newfoundland, Labrador, Nova Scotia and Greenland, lived a hard life, with exhausting and relentless work. In the chronic shortage in which they lived in the fishing boats, they ended up creating a series of recipes to repurpose less commercially valuable parts of the codfish, such as the swim-bladder (known as sames), cheeks, tongues, and faces (head). The chora de bacalhau soup is precisely one of their repurposing recipes, which used whatever was on hand on board, which explains the absence of fresh vegetables and herbs. It is an extremely tasty yet simple soup, which makes use of codfish heads (caras), rice, bacon, lard, onion, tomato, bay leaf, and garlic.

CALDEIRADA

Countrywide

The most complete, celebrated, and plentiful fish soup in Portuguese cuisine is caldeirada. Present throughout the entire Portuguese coast, this apparent marine amalgam has a bigger structure than you may imagine. The caldeirada is composed of assorted fish, which are gently steamed in their broth. The content of each different caldeirada usually faithfully represents the fish, cephalopod, and/or shellfish fauna of the region. Besides the piscine orientation, the caldeirada may or may not include tomato, potato, and a refogado (onion sauteed in olive oil) as a base, as well as other seasonings. Some of

36 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 the most well-known examples are the caldeirada de enguias (eel) from Beira Litoral, which is an ode to this delicate and precious migratory fish, and the caldeirada algarvia from the Algarve, which mandatorily contains fish like the dogfish, conger eel, red scorpionfish, and others like ray, monkfish, corvina, and tub gurnard, as well as bivalves like clams, which are then covered with white wine, parsley, tomato, potatoes, and seasoning.

The caldeiradas from Ribatejo are also renowned, as is the case of caldeirada à fragateiro, caldeirada à pescador, and caldeirada de bacalhau (codfish). From the Açores comes the caldo de peixe, using local fish like vadigo, mullet, grouper, and sheepshead. From Estremadura we find caldeirada à moda da Nazaré, caldeirada de sardinha (sardine), and caldeirada à Setubalense. There are many others, all as delicious and interesting as the next, which one should continue to taste, cook, and promote.

As we have seen, soups represent a precious part of Portuguese gastronomic heritage. There is a need to share and perpetuate the legacy of Portuguese soups so that new generations may have the ability to taste ancient (and healthy) flavors of Portugal’s cultural heritage.

Portuguese Chicken Soup (Canja) 1 large, fat chicken (at least 1.2 kg) Adapted from Culinária Portuguesa 1.7 lt water by Olleboma (1936) 5 gr salt 2 egg yolks (cooked or raw—see recipe*) 100 gr rice

To a large stockpot add the chicken, water, and salt. Heat slowly, removing any scum that is produced while cooking the bird. The boiling process can take from 3 to 6 hours and the final amount of stock should be around 1.5 liters. Add rice to the stock and cook, covered, for 20 minutes.

Remove any excess chicken fat from the stock, remove 3 or 4 tablespoons of stock and use to *crush then sieve two boiled egg yolks into the pot. Alternatively, dilute two raw egg yolks in a bit of stock and add to the pot at the very end, being careful not to let the stock boil. The egg yolks will not only add a pleasant yellow color to the stock, but they also liven the taste of the chicken, especially if the liver, gizzards, the giblets, and any unlaid eggs that the chicken may have are added to the soup. Add the meat of two deboned thighs for a more substantial canja.

Learn about “Culinária Portuguesa” is the upcoming Volume 4 of the Amass Cook collection “Colecção da História da Gastronomia Portuguesa”.

Bruno Carvalho and Maria Sena, founders and authors at the Portuguese foodie website Amass. Cook. are food lovers by default, scientists by vocation. Their epicenter is Porto where they explore the corners of the city to discover its treasures. Their book, Porto Food Guide has garnered several international awards including the Gourmand Best In World. This and their History of Portuguese Gastronomy collection is the result of their dedication to Portuguese cuisine and available on their website.

Learn about their tours, workshops, books, and their new fermentation line, MILF (mother I’d like to ferment) at AmassCook.com, Facebook or Instagram.

Global Grain >> PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT << PORTUGUESE RICE

Arabs brought it to the Iberian In a Mediterranean climate Peninsula at the time of the with Atlantic influences, conquest in 711 The Arabs say that rice comes from rice is mainly grown using a drop of Mohammed's sweat flood irrigation. Rice arrived in South Carolina in 1694 and in Rice was once used as a

There are currently A South America in the currency for trade about 25,000 hectares BOUT early eighteenth century The name, arroz (rice), comes planted in Portugal,

BOUT from the Arabic word "ar-rozz' primarily Carolino rice A Successful production of rice in Portugal Portugal produces about 150 million kilograms per year with depends on three Carolina rice coming mainly from the central and north regions— critical factors: in the tributaries of the Rio Tejo and the Beira Baixa and temperature, water Mondego basins (Figueira da Foz, Coimbra) and Agulha from available, and the southern Portugal's Sado (Alcácer do Sal) zone. amount of sunshine that the rice fields receive. Growth cycle Rule of thumb: to runs 135-170 maintain the creaminess, days depending As of 2017, the Portuguese rice processing do not rinse Carolino rice; on the variety industry was comprised of eight small- and medium-sized private companies. do rinse Agulha to remove the starch and Carolino rice remains firm avoid clumpy rice. Portugal’s per capita rice consumption and tender when done, amounts to nearly 17 kg per year, the absorbs flavors, and is highest among Europeans. creamy when cooked. Agulha is easy to cook, typically used in baked rice dishes, and produces Arroz doce is loose, dry grains. made with creamy OOKING Carolino rice C Carolino = medium, rounded grain

Agulha = long needle-like grain

FreeRice.com is World Food Programme’s free, fun, and addictive Brands you might see: multiple-choice word definition game. For every correct answer, FreeRice gives a payment equivalent to five grains of rice to WFP’s • Pato Arroz B UYING hunger relief program. The rice is paid for by the sponsors, whose • Novarroz names are seen on the bottom of the screen for every correct answer. • RiceCrafters.com • Caçarola Approximately 620,000 people play FreeRice each month. Since the Learn more about the Vale PLAYING game’s inception in 2007, over $1.39 (€1.15) million of rice has been do Sado rice paddy pictured raised, equalling over 202 billion grains of rice. at RiceCrafters.com

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 39

Isto não é nenhum bicho de sete cabeças

This is not a seven-headed bug

You can say this when you have a very difficult task at hand or when a simple task is interpreted as being (but really isn’t) complicated. The Legend Of The Almond Blossom

By ALMOND BLOSSOM (AB) VILLA RENTALS || Unique luxury holiday rentals in Portugal

A long long time ago, Al-Gharb (Southern Portugal) was occupied by the Moors and its capital Chelb (now called Silves) was ruled by the powerful Ibn-Almundin. He was a conqueror of lands and fought many battles. One day amongst the prisoners of one of his battles, he saw and fell in love with Gilda, a beautiful blue-eyed blonde princess from the North. He gave her freedom and their love grew.

Their wedding day in Chelb was celebrated with music, dancing and food for many days and nights. But some time later, the beautiful princess stopped smiling and fell ill for no apparent reason.

Ibn-Almundin consulted magicians and wise men from all over the world, but none could find a cure for her sadness. Then a poet from a northern country, suffering from nostalgia for the snow of his homeland, suggested that the ruler plant almond trees all over his kingdom and wait for them to bloom.

And so it was that the beautiful princess from the north woke up one day to see most of the Al-Gharb countryside covered in fragile white and pink almond blossoms, resembling the snow of her homeland. These spectacular vistas still stun late winter and early spring visitors to Portugal!

Almond Picking

When the petals fall, the almonds grow. Initially coated in a velvety green skin, which eventually hardens and peels off revealing a harder brown shell, they are ready to harvest by late summer.

The traditional way of picking almonds in Portugal is by laying a big net or sheet on the ground underneath the almond tree and hitting the branches with a long pole, causing the almonds to fall onto the net.

After collecting them, they then need to be dried out in the sun for a few days before they are ready to be cracked open to separate the edible fruit from the outer shell.

In years gone by, whole families typically undertook this fairly laborious process together, with grannies and grandchildren sitting on benches

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 41 outside their homes cracking the nuts open. In more modern days, a machine is usually used.

Almonds are delicious eaten raw or roasted with a little salt and “piri-piri” (chilli), transformed into the local liqueur amarguinha and other regional delicacies or sugar-coated for Easter.

Arrepiados

Translated as goose bumps, this regional Algarvian delicacy is made from almond paste moulded into rough shaped cookies with peaks, resembling goose bumps!

Makes 20 cookies

• 2 egg whites • 260 gr sugar • 300 gr skin-on almonds • 1 lemon, zested • 20 whole peeled almonds for decoration

Grind the almonds coarsely with the skin (don’t allow them to turn into powder). Add the sugar, egg whites and lemon rind, mixing all the ingredients together.

Line a baking tray with parchment paper and drop spoonfuls of dough approximately 3cm apart. Alternately, you can shape small balls of dough with your hand and flatten them slightly. Garnish each cookie with a peeled almond, pressing down a little so that it sticks to the paste.

Bake at 160°C on the middle shelf for 15-20 minutes or until the cookies turn golden (do not overcook them or they will be too dry). Remove the tray from the oven, let it cool slightly and carefully remove from the parchment paper. AB Villa Rentals are specialists with local knowledge, enabling them to provide the best advice about where, why, and when to visit Portugal. Their selection of luxury villas, charming cottages, and city-centre apartments— stretch from the north to the south of Portugal—are hand-picked and personally visited, allowing them to offer you personalized service.

Learn more on their website and follow them on Facebook or Instagram.

42 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 Fado: The Sonority of Lisbon

By GETLISBON’S Gracinda Gomes and Teresa Mouro getLISBON.com || The Unusual Lisbon Guide

Fado and saudade are the two most difficult words to translate from Portuguese, if not impossible. But perhaps we can make it easier to understand if we say that fado is related with destiny and saudade with nostalgia and sadness caused by the absence of something in time or space.

These definitions of such complex feelings are the most common topics in fado, the music that is sung accompanied by a classical guitar and a Portuguese guitar and that in November 2011 was inscribed by UNESCO on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

With an obscure origin, but surely resultant from the crossing and fusion of different cultures, fado has become not only the sonority of Lisbon, but fundamentally the feel of the city.

There are countless fados that celebrate the City On Seven Hills. Although unknown when exactly, it was here that fado was born and it was from here that it went on to spread across the country and later, across the world.

Fado, an Anthem to Sentiment and to the City

It is generally known for being an anthem of This way fado, a cultural and urban melancholy, fatalism, sadness, tragedy, grief, phenomenon started by spreading the resignation, betrayal, jealousy and all kinds of culture of Lisbon and, later on, the negative and self-destructive feelings, as these are Portuguese culture in general. many times present in the poems, in the sonority of the guitars and in the aching voices of the fado Origins and the Development singers. But you’re wrong to think that fado is just mourning. This peculiar music also celebrates life, Despite the unknown popular origin of joy, love, fight and resistance. In truth, it reflects in fado, we can say it was born in the a strong and passionate way every feeling that is mid-19th century. At that time it was sung part of life. by sailors but by the end of the century it was sung in the palaces of Lisbon, but The life in the city of Lisbon, its losses mourned for always having a bad reputation. and its exalted beauty or peculiarity, are and will always be deeply connected with the Tagus river. For instance, the famous love affair The river is celebrated with a certain nostalgia between the oldest and mythical singer through the old fragatas (a typical boat of the Maria Severa, a prostitute in Mouraria Tagus River) and the fishwives. The destruction of that tragically died at the age of 26 in Mouraria but also the magnificent views at the 1846, and the Count of Vimioso that countless viewpoints, the picturesque funiculars would take her to sing in his palace in and trams and the traditional tiles are some ways Santana Hill. in which the city is celebrated.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 43 Fado was the form of expression of the popular neighborhoods, the music of the docks and of the most obscure alleys with dubious or simply poor people. Fado vadio (directly translated to vagabond fado) was sung freely without any professional character.

With time it gained structure. The music acquired a melodic richness, and the artistic quality of its interpretation increased. Not only that, but in addition to the popular poetry, more complex verses by both old and contemporary erudite authors were introduced to fado.

In the first half of the 20th century the fadistas (fado singers) left the traditional neighborhoods and gained protagonism in teatro de revista (a type of multi-act popular theatrical entertainment that combines music, dance, and sketches), film industry and radio. Plus, they recorded albums, increasing their commercial promotion and professionalism.

Loved by everyone, locals or foreigners, it is a national musical expression par excellence. At the Museum of Fado it is represented and interpreted in other art forms, from paintings by consecrated artists to contemporary sculpture, and from motifs in the Portuguese pavement to street art murals.

By singing, the fadista is talking to himself as if he was praying, and paradoxically, sharing his feelings with the world. Amalia,Eileen McDonough, LisbonMosaic Studio

Even the listeners who don’t understand the words of his poems, take in the emotions in the notes of the guitars and in the voices of the fadistas. When there’s empathy and the souls speak to each other, fado happens!

This is a cultural expression with more and more interpreters and styles that is alive and that we could not and must not leave out.

It’s no wonder that Lisbon has become a well-loved destination. With an abundance of beautiful weather, delicious food, interesting sights, traditions and warm people, it’s a great city to call home. But a deeper look reveals more than the pastel colored buildings, sidewalk cafes, and that special Rio Tejo light. getLISBON is expert at uncovering unusual, curious and meaningful details that tell the story of the city.

If the hidden history and curiosities of the City On Seven Hills grabs your imagination, visit their site and discover the most peculiar aspects of Lisbon and follow them on Instagram and Facebook.

44 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 READER RECIPE: Cooking Caldo Verde With (My Neighbor) Cristina Vivian Owens || American Expat, Food Learner and Lover

While visiting Portugal on a scouting trip, I had many opportunities to enjoy the local cuisine. One item kept turning up on all of the restaurant menus: caldo verde (green soup or green broth). The variations in local preparation and presentation might just rival bacalhau in numbers. I’m a fan and, as a former Atlanta, Georgia peach, I call this potato-based soup “comfort food”. I knew I had to make it for myself. Yes, it would be easy to find a recipe on the internet but I was more interested in unearthing a family recipe.

After moving to the Falcão neighborhood of Porto, my husband and I were delighted to be invited to our neighbor’s house for the traditional summer meal of grilled sardines. During the conversation, I expressed an interest in learning how to make authentic caldo verde. Our hostess Cristina graciously invited me over for a hands-on demonstration, shared her family recipe with me, and gave me permission to share it with you. As we cooked I learned that she was born and raised not far from here, moved away and then returned, and loves living here. She’s also a fan of MasterChef Australia. Taste this soup and you’ll agree, I’ve deemed her MasterChef Falcão!

Cristina’s Caldo Verde Ladle soup into bowls. Slice the chouriço and place it on top of the soup just before • 5 large yellow potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces serving. • 4 large cloves of garlic, quartered *Portuguese cabbage is more like kale than • 2 small onions, cut in half traditional cabbage. Unlike most cabbage, a • 1 chouriço sausage head does not form. Instead, the cabbage • salt to taste grows into bright green leaves with white • olive oil to taste stalks. When shredded, it looks darker green. • 1 large bag of Portuguese cabbage, For the freshest ingredients, Cristina shredded, cleaned and rinsed in cold water* recommends talking with your grocer and ordering shredded Portuguese cabbage the In a large pot, place potatoes, garlic, onions, day before you need it. and chouriço. Cover with water, add salt, cover, and cook on medium heat until the vegetables are tender, about one hour. Remove chouriço and set aside. Freelance writer and photographer, Vivian Owens is a retired registered At the same time, in a separate large pot, place nurse living in Porto. She is actively the shredded cabbage in water, add salt, cook pursuing her bucket list items: writing, photography, travel, and, coming soon, on medium heat until tender, about 30 minutes. vlogging. Any Drain and reserve. opportunity to mix my bucket list with Using an immersion (stick) blender, puree Portuguese cuisine, vegetables until smooth. Mix drained cabbage language, and culture is into the vegetable puree. Add water to thin cinnamon on the nata! soup to the desired consistency. Pour olive oil The Vivtrek Vlog… into soup and season to taste. Simmer on low watch this space. for about one hour. If the soup gets too thick, add more water.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 45

Eileen McDonough’s Portuguese Flag Sea Bass

• 2 or 3 skin-on sea bass (or other white fish) • 1 c white wine • 2 tbsp olive oil • 4 cloves of garlic, minced • 1 lemon, sliced • 2 red and 2 green bell peppers, sliced • salt and pepper to taste

Place fish side-by-side in a baking dish, drench in white wine, drizzle with olive oil. Fill cavities with garlic and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake at 180ºC for 20-25 min or until fish easily flakes. While fish is baking, steam the peppers until soft, keeping the green and the red separated in the steamer.

Remove fish to serving plate, place steamed green peppers on the left, red on the right, lemon slices in the middle, resembling the Portuguese flag.

Serve with a green salad and crunchy bread. Excellent with a chilled Portuguese white.

46 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

David Johnson’s Lulas Recheadas (Stuffed Squid)

• 1 lb fresh baby squid • 1 chouriço sausage, finely chopped • 2 onions, chopped and divided in half • 2 cloves of garlic, minced and divided in half • 4 tomatoes, chopped • 1 egg • 1 dried bay leaf • 1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped • 1 tbsp olive oil • salt and pepper to taste

Clean the squid. Remove and coarsely chop the tentacles and set aside.

Prepare the stuffing in a large bowl by adding one onion, one clove of garlic, chouriço, and the chopped tentacles. Mix well. Add the egg and mix to bind. Stuff the squid with the mixture and close them with a toothpick and place in a large baking dish.

Sauté the other chopped onion and clove of garlic in a frying pan with olive oil for a couple minutes on medium heat. Add the tomatoes, bay leaf, a few pinches of the parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 10 minutes on low heat. Cover the stuffed squid with the tomato mixture.

Bake at 255°C for 25-30 minutes. Remove from oven, sprinkle with remaining parsley and serve.

Or, when in Lagos, enjoy Lulas Recheadas at Alina's Bica, Rua Marreiros Netto, 78.

If you go, say "olá and obrigado" to Alina for us.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 47

CONTRIBUTORS

AB Villa Rentals Eileen McDonough/ Lisbon Mosaic Studio abvillarentals.com eileenmosaics.com instagram.com/abvillarentals instagram.com/lisbonmosaics facebook.com/ABVillaRentals facebook.com/lisbonmosaicstudio

Aliança Artesanal/ getLISBON Lenços Namorar Portugal getlisbon.com facebook.com/ lencosnamorarportugal instagram.com/getlisbon.get facebook.com/getLISBON Amass. Cook.

www.amasscook.com/pt Lucy Pepper

instagram.com/amass.cook lucypepper.com facebook.com/amasscook facebook.com/lucypepper.illustration

Av’s Pastries & Catering Practice Portuguese

avspastries.com practiceportuguese.com facebook.com/AvsPastries instagram.com/practice_portuguese facebook.com/PracticePortuguese Black Sheep Lisboa / Real Portuguese Wine Vinte Vinte

blacksheeplisboa.com / vintevintechocolate.pt realportuguesewine.com instagram.com/vintevintechocolate instagram.com/blacksheeplisboa facebook.com/vintevintechocolate facebook.com/blacksheeplisboa / facebook.com/RPWnaturalandorganic

Did you get your copy of the Dylan Herholdt/ Portugal Realty Relish Portugal 2020 Year In Review? Portugal-The Simple Life Download it here and enjoy familiar stories and recipes plus indexes to www.portugal-realty.com / portugal-the-simple-life.com help you find your way through our four fabulous 2020 issues. instagram.com/portugal_realty / instagram.com/portugal_the_simple_life Our generous contributors strive to provide you with facebook.com/portugalrealtyestate / information and experiences that matter. Please take facebook.com/Portugalthesimplelife time to visit them online and partake in their offerings.

VIRTUAL (COOK)BOOK COLLECTION We are delighted to present our (growing) cookbook collection from fabulous Relish Portugal contributors. Have you tried some of their recipes? We’d like to see what’s cooking in your cozinha. Send us a picture at [email protected]!

Free Buy it here Buy it here Buy it here Available Buy it here Amazon US Download your Amazon US Amazon US now at Amazon US Amazon UK copy here Amazon UK Amazon UK Can the Can Amazon UK Amazon DE Amazon DE Amazon DE Amazon DE

Buy it here Buy it here Buy it here Buy it here Buy it here Buy it here Amazon US Amazon US Devour Tours Amazon US Amazon US Amazon US Amazon UK Amazon UK digital cookbook Amazon UK Amazon UK Amazon UK Amazon DE Amazon DE Amazon DE Amazon DE Amazon DE

Lagos Jigsaw Puzzle

Buy it here Buy it here Amazon US Amass.Cook. Lisbon Jigsaw Puzzle Amazon UK Amazon DE Porto Jigsaw Puzzle

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 49

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD Recipe Jogo da Laranjinha || Relish Portugal || 4 Index Migas à moda do Alentejo || Lucy Pepper || 9 Sheet Pan Meatballs & Roasted Chickpeas || Black Sheep Lisboa || 11 Piri-Piri HOT Sauce || Practice Portuguese || 11 Pecan Pie || Av’s Pastries & Catering || 13 Arroz de Pato || Dylan Herholdt || 18 Arroz de Polvo || CM Pedro Araújo || 18 Portuguese Chicken Soup || Amass. Cook. || 35 Arrepiados (Almond Cookies) || AB Villa Rentals || 40 Caldo Verde || Vivian Owens || 43 Portuguese Flag Sea Bass || Eileen McDonough || 44 Lulas Recheadas || David Johnson || 45 Drunk Pears || getLISBON || 48

WHAT'S PLAYING IN YOUR KITCHEN

Contributor-curated Spotify playlist for your Portuguese Kiss Me || Sixpence None The Richer cozinha endeavors. Stay Awhile || Journey Let’s Stay Together || Low Sei Lá || Bárbara Tinoco Sanctify || St. Paul & The Broken Bones getLISBON’s Love is My Religion || Ziggy Marley Pêras Bêbadas Let’s Work Together || Canned Heat (Wine-Poached Drunk Pears) O Novo Normal || Sergio Godinho Happy || Pharrell Williams • small hard pears, peeled, stems intact Sheherazade || Nikolai-Rimsky Korsakov • dark red wine Manto de Água || Agir w/Ana Moura • 1 tbsp light brown sugar per pear I’m The Only One || Melissa Etheridge • 2 cinnamon sticks Ave Mundi || Rodrigo Leão Four Lean Hounds || Justin Rutledge In a pot, place the whole pears vertically. Lisboa, Menina E Moça || Carlos Do Carmo Cover them with red wine and add a tablespoon of sugar on top of each pear. Add two cinnamon sticks to the pot. Listen to the What's Playing In Your Kitchen? Cover and simmer until the pears Spotify playlist here become soft. Let them cool and refrigerate until serving.

50 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

2 0 2 0 Subscribe at RelishPortugal.com

Listen in on Evanne and Carl on the Watch or listen to Evanne and Dylan on Good Morning Portugal! Podcast Portugal—The Simple Life Podcast

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 51

PERSPECTIVE Longing To Return

David Johnson, World Traveler/American Expat Wannabe

Portugal is a feeling more than a sight, sound, taste, or singular smell. The terrain is varied, each region offering different experiences in the landscape, flavors and recipes, wine, and even dialects. We miss Portugal for so many reasons, both tangible and intangible. Here are some of them.

Deep, Delicious Dive the Algarve was on our honeymoon in 1981-82 when we lived for six months in Walkable villages, where we prefer to live in Quarteira and Villamoura. Portugal, are a delight. We’ve always loved European culture, especially what we call In Quarteira, down the main road within café life. We happily walk the colorful walking distance of our small inn, was a tiny cobblestone streets and observe locals at the thatch-roofed shanty housing a dirt-floored cafés and bars that are so prevalent in any restaurant run by a young couple. As you central square or along coastal walkways. It would find at that time, the oldest son, who is remarkable how much fun it can be to was about 12 years old, was our waiter. enjoy a small snack or an entire meal outside. We’d order their specialty, frango piri-piri and Ultimately, we get scent-induced hunger an ice-cold Sagres, the Portuguese national pangs. The intoxicating aromas distract us beer (cerveja), and enjoy connecting with this from the beautiful hand-painted historic tiles lovely Portuguese family. There was a hole in and beckon us to explore deep into the roof, which allowed most of the smoke to neighborhoods and villages. This is always escape from the wood-fired, open-pit style our preference. Instead of remaining in churrasco (bbq). The frango was delicious tourist-trampled zones, we dig deeper, and the entire meal was a deal at 120 seeking the small bar restaurants (tascas). escudos each ($4 US total), including dessert We amble down unknown avenues following and coffee. our noses, seeking out those tascas offering family-tried-and-true dishes, allowing us to In Albufeira, our second primary haunt, taste grandma's cooking and nestle into an moored amongst the gentle waves of the inky authentic experience. dark Atlantic nighttime and until the wee hours of the mornings, at least 50 dim lights Turf or Surf? were bobbing in the distance, squid boats and their masters plying their trade. Visiting Portugal since the 1980s, most of our time has been spent in waterfront cities and We could find lulas (small squid) first thing at villages, enjoying a mainstay of Portuguese dawn, caught overnight, as well as varied and cuisine—seafood. Plentiful and fresh daily, abundant varieties of right-off-the-boat fish. our earliest exposure to the tasty seafood of From those balmy mornings, we discovered a

52 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 A few of David’s favorite Algarvian villages:

forever-favorite dish, stuffed lulas. This Alvor, Bergau, Carvoeiro, perfectly cooked succulent dish is Ferragudo, Lagos, Luz, Monchique, unforgettable, it’s what delicious dreams are Salema, Tavira. made of. To this day, when we return to Portugal, stuffed lulas are what we Pro Tip: Don’t miss the Seven immediately search for in those small tascas. Hanging Valleys hike along the Algarve’s spectacular central coast. The tasty stuffing is made using many The trail can be picked up in several ingredients (chefs choice) as well as the locations. Ask for a map at the usual garlic and abundant olive oil. Into those local Visitor Center. small body pockets go diced tentacles, seasoned by experienced hands, knowledge passed down by moms, dads, and grandparents who take great pride in fabulous family recipes.

Saudade

We feel that we owe our respect and admiration to the Portuguese people in return for their ever-helpful and accommodating ways. In our travels, we’ve found that learning basic, polite phrases in the local language and/or dialect is appreciated. When possible, we respectfully

greet locals and order meals in Portuguese. Honeymoon1981/82 Even when we struggle with the pronunciation (aside from natives, who doesn’t), the Portuguese smile and work toward understanding our communication.

During these crazy times, we miss Portugal and our international community of accepting friends more than ever. This sweet, deeply lasting feeling brings about constant reminisce. We cannot wait to return and be enveloped in that cultural hug and return the love and admiration.

Portugal beckons us, never lets us go, and we are eager to return to her charming embrace. Saudade* saturates us all the way to our toes. We love Portugal and relish our return.

*Saudade: A nostalgic longing to be near again to something or someone distant, or that has been loved and then lost; the love that remains.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL.com | 53 Whether you LOVE Portugal, LIVE in Portugal or LONG to experience Portugal, Relish Portugal is your foodie-focused friend. https://RelishPortugal.com