Cyprus Kuπρος, Kibris

CYPRUS 269

affeders- signomi (hello), (how much?) (hello), (how much?); (how much?); yasas merhaba ne kadar? poso kani? 780,130 (plus 120,000 Turkish 780,130 (plus 120,000 Turkish Republic: None required for most nationalities for most nationalities None required GMT/UTC + 2 GMT/UTC (excuse me), (excuse Phrases Northern Cyprus: Population settlers in North Cyprus) Time Visas iniz (excuse me), (excuse , Kibris

are simple, rustic and crowded with Cypriots. simple, rustic and crowded with Cypriots. are tavernas προς 90 392 % Ku Share gorgeous Altinkum Beach ( p277 ) with nobody but the turtles p277 Altinkum Beach gorgeous ( Share

The Byzantine churches and monasteries of the Troodos are illuminated illuminated the Troodos are of and monasteries The Byzantine churches Republic of Cyprus: Republic of Cyprus: Republic of Cyprus: Tassos Republic of Cyprus: Tassos a ş beaches, mezes, mosaics and mosaics and beaches, mezes, Greek; Turkish Turkish Greek; Driving past ruined basilicas and untouched beaches to the tip of the Karpas the Karpas to the tip of beaches and untouched Driving past ruined basilicas

CY£20-40/TL50-90 per day Republic of Cyprus: Lefkosia; North Republic of Cyprus: Lefkosia; Republic of Cyprus: Cyprus Republic of Cyprus: Cyprus Widespread 9250 sq km (about 30 Maltas). 9250 sq km (about 30 Maltas). Near Lemesos, this is a top spot for history buffs keen on Cyprus’ ruins ( p274 ); p274 ruins ( Cyprus’ Near Lemesos, buffs is a top spot for history this on keen 357; North Cyprus: % Area Area ATMs Budget Capital Cyprus: Lefko Country Codes For Famous monasteries Head of State Languages Money NorthPound (CY£); Cyprus: Turk- ish Lira (TL); A$1=CY£0.34/TL1.14, CA$1=CY£0.41/TL1.39; €1=CY£0.57/TL1.91; NZ$1=CY£0.28/ Yen100=CY£0.40/TL1.34; TL0.93; UK£1=CY£0.84/TL2.81; US$1=CY£0.45/TL1.49 Papadopoulos; North Cyprus: Mehmet Ali Papadopoulos; Talat

TRAVEL HINTS HINTS TRAVEL the locals eat – the best Eat where CYPRUS ROAMING In the north, in the Troodos. and monasteries museums in Lefkosia In the south, ruins in Pafos, Girne and the Karpas Peninsula. FAST FACTS FACTS FAST

Kourion ) p274 ( in Northern Cyprus another is Salamis Troodos Mountains ) p275 ( by glorious frescoes Best journey Off-the-beaten track Peninsula ( p277 ) p277 ( Peninsula HIGHLIGHTS Cyprus is an island with a split personality. Divided into Greek and Turkish enclaves since 1974, and Turkish enclaves Divided into Greek split personality. Cyprus is an island with a time to the who devote more sun-seekers, Cyprus is famous as a summer destination for British and banana-boat But look past the sun umbrellas than history and culture. and bars beaches goddess the Greek Aphrodite, birthplace of rides and you’ll find another Cyprus: the legendary and historic mosques. with ancient ruins, monasteries alive love, of

C y p r u s © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 268 CYPRUS 270 0 50 km CYPRUS 0 30 miles

To Mersin CYPRUS To Alanya To Tašucu (Turkey) Zafer Burnu (Cape (Turkey) (Turkey) Aphendrika Apostolos Andreas) Oasis Apostolos Andreas Monastery Hasan's Turtle Beach M E D I T E R R A N E A N Ayios Filon Altinkum Dipkarpaz (Golden) S E A Karpas (Rizokarpaso) Beach Yeni ErenköyὄPeninsula ὄ Koruçam Burnu (Cape Kormakitis) Kantara Girne Lapta (Kyrenia) NORTH Akdeniz Cape Elaia (Ayia Irini) St Hilarion CYPRUS Bellapais Kyrenia Famagusta (Pentadactylos) Bufavento UN Buffer Zone Bay Güzelyurt Mountains North (Morfou) Agios Dometios (Nicosia) Ledra Palace Mesaoria Morfou Checkpoint Plain Salamis Kato Bay Pyrgos Astromeritis Cape Soli South Ercan Arnaoutis Airport Gazimaÿusa Chrysochou (Nicosia) (Famagusta) Bay Baths of UN Buffer Zone Agios Vrysoulles Aphrodite Kykkos Nikolaos Lara Beach Latsi Polis Monastery tis Stegis REPUBLIC Dhekelia UK Protaras (Turtle Beach) Kykkos Pedoulas OF CYPRUS Sovereign Base (1318m) Kakopetria Akamas Agia ὄὄὄ Archangelos Olympus Larnaka Cape Greko Peninsula Napa (1952m) Bay Avakas Gorge Agros Plateia Stavrovouni Larnaka Platres Troodos Monastery Troodos (689m) Hala Sultan Tekke Pano Salt Lake Omodos Massif Lefkara Tombs of Larnaka Coral the Kings International Bay Airport Ano Pafos TURKEY Tašucu Kato Pafos Mersin Kouklia Sanctuary of Alanya Aphrodite's Apollon Ylatis Lemesos Kalymnos Beach (Limassol) ὄ Sanctuary Pafos Governor's Rhodes SYRIA Kolossi (Cruise lonelyplanet.com International Beach Crete Airport (Cruise Kourion Akrotiri Ship CYPRUS Petra Tou Bay Route Romiou Pissouri Episkopi Haifa Bay Salt Ship JORDAN Beach Only) Akrotiri UK Lake ISRAEL

Sovereign Base Route EGYPT Only) To Rhodes (Greece); Piraeusὄ (Greece) To Haifa (Israel) closer toreunificationcloser andtravellers thetwosidesjustbyshowing cannowcrossbetween Cyprus, whiletravellers tothenorthcanvisitincredible Byzantine andGraeco-Roman of Cyprusare abletoexplore thebeaches ruinsof andFrankish andCrusader Turkish North their passportsattheborder. Forthefirst timeinageneration, visitors totheGreek Republic lonelyplanet.com entered the EUaloneinMay 2004.Since then of Greek Cypriots. 65% of Turkish Cypriotsandrejected by75% perhaps unsuprisingly itwasaccepted by was heavily skewed infavour of Turkey – endum onreunification, buttheagreement were presented withaUN-sponsored refer- remains adividedisland.In2004bothsides plundered. monasteries andarchaeological sites were mainland Turkey andhundreds of churches, The area wasfloodedwithsettlers from Greek culture were removed fromthenorth. into TurkishandGreek states. UN later interceded andpartitionedtheisland more.their homesandkillingthousands The island, driving180,000Greek Cypriotsfrom Turkey invadedthenorthernthirdof the a coupagainsttheCypriotgovernment and 1960. granted independence toCyprusinAugust of intercommunal violence. finally Britain force tosubduetheGreeks, triggering decades appointed aTurkishBritain Cypriotpolice rule andunionwithGreece. Inresponse, manded the majority Greek Cypriotpopulationde- 300 years. in 1571anddominatingCyprusforthenext Thisdidn’tstoptheOttomansinvading gusta. andFama-built huge wallsaroundLefkosia Gothic cathedrals;andtheVenetians, who numerous castles;theFranks,whoerected the island. who builtchurches andmonasteries across by theRomansandthenByzantines, buttheislandwastaken overto 2500BC, times. Greek culture inCyprusdates back pawn inthegamesof empires sinceancient with astrategic a location,Cyprushasbeen withnaturalresourcesBlessed butcursed HISTORY treasures inthesouth. The lastfew change years have asea inCypriotpolitics.Theislandisedgingever seen As a result, thesouthernRepublic of Cyprus ofDespite aseries UNresolutions, Cyprus thefollowingdecades,all tracesof Over Next cametheCrusaders, whoconstructed On 15July1974,Greek forceslaunched In 1878Turkey but soldCyprustoBritain enosis – CYPRUS••History independence fromforeign resources. expat villas,puttingahuge strainonnatural of newlyconstructedvanishing underasea resorts onbothsidesofBeach theislandare vides theRepublicof Cyprusfromthenorth. zonethatdi- Line –theUN-patrolledbuffer divideistheGreenRepublic. Alesstangible and theTroodosMassif inthecentre of the inNorthernCyprusdactylos) Mountains Cyprus isdividedbytheKyrenia (Penta- ENVIRONMENT scattered aroundthe island. Roman, ByzantineandFrankish timesare and monasteries acrossCyprus.Ruinsfrom dating backtothe12thcenturyinchurches of examples iconsandfrescoes; youcansee The definitive art of Cyprusistheproduction ARTS Maronite andMuslimminorities. 94% Greek Orthodox, withRomanCatholic, population isSunniMuslim,whilethesouth tolian settlersfromtheTurkishmainland. population isheavily outnumbered byAna- the south.Innorth,TurkishCypriot Since partition,mostGreek Cypriotslive in THE CULTURE as anewmemberstate. carpet intheEU’senthusiasmtosignTurkey willbesweptunderthe riots fear theirstruggle tion remains controversial. Many Greek Cyp- border restrictions have butreunifica- eased, More than99%of theNorthernCyprus Papadakis. in of Cyprus,whilereconciliation isexplored plores Americancollusioninthepartition and IanCraig’s set aroundBellapais. Brendan O’Malley Cyprus Cyprus, read ColinThubron’s To understandthegloryofundivided READING UP Echoes fromtheDead Zone, or Lawrence Durrell’s The Cyprus Conspiracy Bitter Lemons, Journey into byYiannis ex-

271

CYPRUS CYPRUS CYPRUS main carriers. .cyprusairways.com) % start inTurkey.start Gazima Louis CruiseLines five hours). ferryalso atwice-weekly toAlanya(TL75, son, twotofive hours). Insummerthere’s Girne andTa 6002) hours). land Turkey. information. contact areport atLemesos currently suspended – totheRepublic’smainPassenger services Sea than buyingascheduled flight. thisisoftentour -inthepeakseason, cheaper One cheap optionistojoinadiscountpackage Eurocypria Atlasjet Airlines Aegean Airlines 1061; www.turkishairlines.com) with dle East and charter fromEuropeandtheMid- flights andPafos.Larnaka There are regular scheduled The Republic’sinternational airportsare at Air ferries tothenorthfromTurkey. Most travellers arrive byair,butthere are also THERE&AWAY GETTING TRANSPORT 272 Discount airlinesflyingtoCyprus: Flights toErcanairportinNorthCyprus Flights Ferries connectNorthCyprus tomain- other way round.The situationis volatilesochecklocally before attempting tocross. nottheinsurance isavailable attheborderbuthire fromsouthtonorth, carscanonlybe taken Lefkosia), Vrysoulles(nearAgia Napa) andAstrometiris/Zohdia Temporary (nearGüzelyurt). car main crossingpoints are theLedra Palace Hotel inLefkosia, Agios (westof Dometios/Kermia feathers, theentrystampforTurkey The goesonaseparate piece ofpaper,notyourpassport. versa) and stayforuptothree months. Border restrictions were relaxed (orvice in2005,allowingtouriststocrossfromsouthnorth CROSSING THELINE 366 5786) have ferries daily passenger between However, youmustleave Cyprusfromthesame sideyouarrived on.ToavoidrufflingGreek RNPR • GtigTee&Aa There &Away ••Getting TRANSPORT

(code YK; (www.atlasjet.com) ğ Fergün usa andMersinusa (TL65oneway,12 Salamis Shipping (www.eurocypria.com) (www.eurocypria.com) sails three between sails timesaweek Cyprus Airways KT Denizcilik KT (

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(www.aegeanair.com) and other carriers. and othercarriers. % % ucu (TL60toTL71perper- Turkish Airlines Turkish ( % 815 4993) 227 3820;www.kthy.net) 7777 8555) and and (Cyprus Turkish Shipping; (CY;

( % % forthelatest Akgünler 2589 9999)

Cyprus Turkish Cyprus Turkish (code TK; 2266 3054;www ΛΕΦΚΩΣΙΑ are the (

% % and 815 227 have hardlychanged incenturies. resorts, butinlandare quietstonevillages that Develop ment isrampantatthemainbeach share of thebeaches andhistoricaltreasures. the Greek Republicof Cyprushasthelion’s Covering thesouthern63%of theisland, CYPRUS THE REPUBLICOF on crossingtheborder. Cyprus. Theboxed text ( below ) hasinformation international licencesare accepted inNorth are validintheRepublic,butonlyBritish and in mosttowns.Mostnationaldrivinglicences routes forsimilar prices. cover taxis on Sunday.Shared similar service Inexpensive linkthemajor buses cities,except AROUND GETTING even quieter.even –thenorthernsideofLefkosia thecityis thecentreGreen through Linecutsright of toric Orthodox churches. TheUN-patrolled are linedwithgalleries,artcentres andhis- as thestreets insidetheVenetian citywalls ofcapital theRepublic,which isashame Tourists byandlarge bypass thesleepy pop 205,630 LEFKOSIA (SOUTHNICOSIA) Cheap carandmotorbike rental isavailable EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Police (North Cyprus) Police(North Cyprus) Ambulance(North Ambulance,fire orpolice(Republicof Cyprus) % 112 or % % 199 155 lonelyplanet.com %

112 Lefkosia, while the Lefkosia, frescoes rescued after 1974. from CY£10; only Wed, Fri &Sun) only Wed,Fri no longer functions. h Line. away onthealleysleadingdowntoGreen street andmosttouristattractionsare tucked the citywalls,LidrasStismainshopping and resident nearby. cats.Bus 12passes hostel hasaguestkitchen, fan-cooled dorms painted1.5km fromthecity walls,thisbrightly HI Hostel Sleeping &Eating follow thebrownsigns. and to1pmSat) 4.30pm Mon-Fri, antine Museum 2578; admissionCY£1; Mon-Fri) Cathedral Plateia Archiepiskopou Kyprianouare Hammam Omeriye Mosque Omeriye 8pm) ( sion free; 10am-4.30pmTue-Sun) Museum Municipal come earlytobeattheguidedtours. lection of andtombofferings, pots,statues but Mon-Sat, 10am-1pmSun) ( Near theoldPafos Gate, the Sights PS Printways closed Wedafternoon) h postoffice Main Hospital Lefkosia General Yeitonia.to 2pmSat)InthealleysofLaiki [email protected]; Aristokyprou; Organisation Cyprus Tourist andnumerouspayphones. office Plateia Eleftheriashasbanks,themainpost Information % % lonelyplanet.com In theArchbishop’s Palace compoundon The citycentre isPlateia Eleftheriasby isbyroadasitsairport Access toLefkosia Lefkosia hasmanymoreLefkosia On Plateia Tillirias are therecently restored LidrasSt,theintriguing Just off 8am-midnight). InternetaccessnearPlateiaSolomou. 7.30am-1.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30-10.30amSat, 7.30am-1.30pm &3-6pmMon-Fri, 2286 5864;Mouseiou1;admissionCY£1.50; 2267 9369;LidrasSt;admissionCY£0.50; offers stupendousviewsacross thecity. museums , thefolksy

h (admission free; ( % 11am-5pm Mon,9am-9pmTue-Sun, women ( % 9943 8360;Tefkrou 5;dmCY£5) – contact thetouristoffice or –contact

( (D’Avila Bastion, KonstantinouPalaiologou;

% . andtheswish and indulgent 2266 1628; Rigainis 63B;perhrCY£1; 2266 1628;Rigainis (

h (Turkish Baths; (Turkish % 2243 0008;admissionCY£1; Ethnographic Museum houses anincredible houses col- Ledra Museum & Observatory &Observatory Ledra Museum 9am-2pm Mon-Fri) 2266 1475;Ippokratous17;admis- withancienticonsand h ( % tracesthehistoryof 9am-1pm Mon-Sat&2-4pm h (CTO; (CTO; 2280 1400;Nechrou) art galleries, churches galleries, art 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, % % Cyprus Museum 2246 0570;sauna andthe 2267 4264; THE REPUBLICOFCYPRUS••Lefkosia (SouthNicosia) h h ( About

Leventis Leventis % h 9.30am- St John’s 9am-5pm 2243 Byz- 9am-

(CY£3, 1½hours). toAgia Bastion fromConstanza Napa goes h Kykkos Monastery (CY£3,twohours). ( ices toPedoulas (CY£2.50, 1½hours). dailyserv- (CY£3.50, 1½hours), andseveral (CY£2.50, onehour) andPlateia Troodos stanza Bastion) (CY£8, 3½hours), while have toPolis fromTripolisBastion minibuses toPafosBastion (CY£5.50,2½hours). hour). AlepaalsohasadailybusfromTripolis 5814) one hour); % old citywall,exceptonSunday. leave aroundthe stands Buses fromseveral &Away There Getting 2275; Lefkonos 67-71) are shownatthebohemian films performances andcinemas.Art-house The touristofficehasinformationontheatre Entertainment for years. Afroditis &Stasinou) andbeseen. places tosee The isvariedandaccessible. Nightlife inLefkosia Drinking only, closedSun) Sun) to and herbrissoles)forlessthanCY£5,head better thanyou’dexpectforthemoney. the Delphihasinviting,angularroomsthatare CY£17/22; % For theTroodos, Solis From Plateia Solomou, localdishesFor tasty Delphi Hotel Christakis 5501; Trikoupi 65;mezeCY£7.50; 5501; Trikoupi The excellent SPLURGE (meatballs) andotherCypriotspecialities. of liantly. The housemeze isaveritable feast onemeal,butitdoesbril- only serves lunch Mon-Sat). 2464 3492) , 9962 3604) operates services to Lemesos (CY£3, one (CY£3,one toLemesos operates services Ta Deilina streetside cafés streetside souvlakia,

a ( % runs regularly to Larnaka (CY£3.50, (CY£3.50, runsregularly toLarnaka ) Close to Plateia Solomou bus stand, toPlateia Solomoubusstand, Close Alepa hasamorningbustoKakopetria

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has been thebestclubintown has been ( Mattheos Mattheos 2266 8537;

. % seftalias, Zanettos Taverna 2275 8287;Thermopylon; 2266 5211; Kostaki Pantelidi 24;s/d 2266 5211;Kostaki onLidrasStare themain 2266 4636) and Clarios

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CYPRUS CYPRUS CYPRUS Pantelidi 24;perdayfromCY£20) hr CY£2) in adining roomfullof oldmovie posters. finer Cypriotfood finewines andeven serves CY£4; houses kebab rants andwiththefeel ofMuseum afamilyhome. back fromthewaterfront nearthePierides Thermopylon 2;s/dCY£10/16) Family four. roomssleep hostel is oldandcreaky butOKforthemoney. CY£5/10) HI hostel Sleeping &Eating tobothresorts.connect Larnaka best of theholidayapartmentsandclubs.Buses water parkandaquarium,the museum, life butlittlecharm. Agia Napahasanautical of mosques alsohasa Larnaka bythekleptomaniacPieridesfamily. amassed & Sat) 4;admissionCY£1; Kitieos ist office, Nearthetour-icons andthetombof Lazaros. h In theoldtown, Sights Livadhiotis Hotel banks.Forinternet access,try fice andseveral to1pmSat,closedWedafternoon) Mon-Fri, 4322; PlateiaVasileos Pavlou; quieter old townandTurkishquarter. waterfront stripwithamodestbeach anda from thedeadinBible. There’s abusy whofamouslyrose (Lazarus) Agios Lazaros resorts, isthefinalrestingLarnaka placeof andfriendlierthantheothercoastal Calmer pop 71,740 LARNAKA (CY£5.50, onehour). (CY£4,onehour)andLemesos to Larnaka ( 274 % Agia Napa Agia Behind Podocataro Bastion, Bastion, Podocataro Behind East of Larnaka are ofEast thepackage-tour Larnaka resorts For acheap bite, there are Harry’s Inn are fromtheseafront the Back For carhire, try Art Café 1900 Café Art 8am-12.30pm &3.30-6.30pm) 7777 7474;Salaminos) displaysanamazingcollectionof folkart alongthewaterfront andinexpensive h H EULCO YRS • ank THE REPUBLICOFCYPRUS••Larnaka opposite theHIHostel. Upstairs by the Bekir Pasa Upstairs mosque,the bytheBekir , the tourist office hasdetails., thetouristoffice

from 6pm,closedTue) ( % Pierides Museum Pierides and ΛΑΡΝΑΚΑ 2462 8811;NikolaouRossou27;dm/familyr near Agios Lazaros church.near Agios Lazaros ( %

( ( % % Protaras 2465 4453;[email protected]; Agios Lazaroschurch Agios 2465 3027;Stasinou6;mains from castle 2462 6222;NikolaouRossou50;per has frequent service-taxis hasfrequent service-taxis h Petsas A wholesome place set Awholesomeplaceset h 9am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 1pmFri . Bothhave goodnight- . , a 8.15am-2.30pm &3-6.15pm Thisclassyplace contains fabulous contains

( ( % % museum pavement restau- pavement 2481 4555;Zinonos 7777 1515; Travel &Express Travel , thepostof- (Agiou Lazarou; CTO

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only internet accessintheoldtown. triou Nikolaidi; triou ( on Archiepiskopou Kyprianos. There are banksallover townanda 1.30pm Sat,closedWedafternoon) running westalongthecoast. historic oldcentre fortheblandbeach resorts here in1191.Most package touristsskipthe ofthe LionheartmarriedBerengaria Navarre largestis thesecond towninCyprus.Richard Part beach resort, parteconomichub, Lemesos pop 160,730 (LIMASOL) LEMESOS companies have desksattheterminal. hireminutes, notSunday)fromErmou.Car minutes) orlocalbus2224(CY£0.50,30 (CY£4,onehour). hour) andLefkosia (CY£5, one toLemesos frequent service-taxis &Express Travel (CY£3,onehour). one hour)andLemesos (CY£3.50, toLefkosia Intercity alsohasbuses Napa (CY£2,onehour),exceptonSunday. and Hotel. old FourLanterns stoponthewaterfront, oppositeBuses the &Away There Getting who run it are often theirfeet. rushedoff taverna homestyle foodis excellentatthisintimate but thewelcomeis friendly. havehouse lumpybedsand shared bathrooms, s/d CY£10/14) Luxor GuestHouse Sleeping &Eating tle of ApollonYlatis a rugged stripof coast.Thenearby Greco-Roman ruinsinthesouth,overlooking rium; a alsohas pottery. Lemesos antine sgraffito 1pm Sun) admissionCY£1; 5419; Eirinis; looking isthesolid- The mainattractioninLemesos Sights office has details. hasdetails. office % mosque, hammam

Rizitiko Rizitiko About 19kmtowardsPafos, (CY£5,20For theairport,take ataxi The (admission CY£0.75) 2587 8340;Agiou Andreou 4;perhrCY£2) admission CY£1; Intercity Intercity , w CTO near the mosque, though thefamily nearthe mosque,though Lemesos Castle Medieval Museum Medieval Lemesos Castle ( ith Rooms atthisold-fashioned guest-

% ( h Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % Crusader gravestonesCrusader andByz- ( % 6534 8769;Tzami 4;mains£3-7) (

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8.15am-2.30pm & 3-6.15pm Mon-Fri, to 8.15am-2.30pm &3-6.15pmMon-Fri, (admission CY£0.75) 2536 2756;cnrSpyrosAraouzou&Dimi-

2462 3492) ( h % 7777 7474;Papakyriakou) are opensimilarhours. and 8am-5.45pm) 2536 2265;Agiou Andreou 101; h museum ΛΕΜΕΣΟΣ isonthewaterfront. rundailytoAgia 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,10am- Eman lonelyplanet.com and has thefinest

( – thetourist Travelers TalesTravelers % Kourion Kourion offers the the offers Kolossi Cas- operates 2372 1321) post office Sanctuary Sanctuary ( %

The

2530 (Cu-

hour), while (CY£3,one old portroundabout toLarnaka (CY£3, 1½ hours) from the seafront. (CY£3, 1½hours) fromtheseafront. nature leaflets. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com wheat beers. animpressive range ofserves lagers, alesand Facing thecastle,thisboisterous nightspot tis Stegis tis Stegis from 1474.NearKakopetria, house) Archangelos Nearby Pedoulas stone hastheteeny Sights &Activities h Centre Troodos Visitor office. Just southof Plateia Troodosisthe fice anda lages andWorldHeritage–listed monasteries. the blackpinesare waterfalls, wine-makingvil- for walkers andnature Dotted amongst buffs. Wild andrugged, the Troodos Massif isahaven MASSIF TROODOS the touriststrip. (CY£5, onehour). (CY£5.50,1½hours) andLarnaka Lefkosia toPafos taxis (CY£5,1½ hours),service 2½ hours). (CY£3, twohours) andPlateia Troodos(CY£3, Bus one hour).Onweekdays, (CY£3, toLefkosia have dailybuses several Alepa Andrea Themistokleous,exceptonSunday. runfromthemarket buses on Long-distance &Away There Getting strip alongtheseafront. ripolou, andmore bars andclubsonthetourist restaurants lonelyplanet.com Travel &Express Travel There’s acluster of excellentopen-air Draught Microbrewery The village of Platres hasbanks,apostof- There are numerouscar-rental on offices companies have desksattheterminal. 30 minutes, notSunday)toErmou.Car-hire 20 minutes) orlocalbus2224(CY£0.50, ataxi(CY£5,town. Togetintotown take is5kmsouthofThe Republic’smainairport INTOTOWN GETTING 10am-3pm) ( %

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h Roman basilica Pafosthe 3rdcentury BC. alsohas a sion CY£0.75; mospheric featuring theinebriated exploitsof Dionysus. many with itsastoundingRomanmosaics, Site logical It’s worthbraving thecrowdsat Sights Mon-Sat, 3pm-10pmSun) ( in bothAnoandKato Pafos. main square. There are banksandpostoffices closed Wedafternoon) southeast of town,costsCY£15. head uptoquieter AnoPafos onthehillside. the beach stripatKato Pafos toodeveloped, with historicalrelics…and tourists.Ifyoufind ofThe formercapital Cyprus, Pafos ispacked pop 47,200 PAFOS utes). See p273 fromLefkosia. forbuses (CY£3, 1¾hours), viaPlatres (CY£1,20min- a dailybusfromPlateia TroodostoLemesos weekdays, A rental caristhebestwaytoget around.On &Away There Getting some overlooking theforest. chalet, Petit Palais hasneat,compactrooms, Faneromenis; s/dCY£17/28) CY£7) andafew simpleroomsattheback. place offers Cypriotmeals(CY£3to tasty Platres,through thisfriendlyandpopular board perpersonCY£10) Platres isthemostpopularplacetostay. Sleeping &Eating from theTroodosVisitorCentre. trails astery of making village of stern-looking saints. 11am-4pm Sun) museum % The main to/fromtheairport,8km A private taxi Petit Palais Restaurant Village areThe mountains by crisscrossed Other interesting detours includethewine- For aquieter historicalexperience, theat- 8.15am-2.30pm & 3-6.15pm Mon-Fri, to1.30pmSat, 8.15am-2.30pm &3-6.15pmMon-Fri, 2694 7240; Plateia Kennedy 6;perhrCY£2; 2694 7240;PlateiaKennedy –walkers canpickuptrail ( ΠΑΦΟΣ % ( Kykkos % h Troodos MountainBus Tombs oftheKings 2294 2736;CY£1.50; ( has 12th-centurypaintingsof 2694 0217;admissionCY£1.50; % 7.30am-8pm) and several and several CTO , withitsintriguingreligious isjustdownfromAnoPafos’ 2542 2723;www.petitpalaishotel.com; Omodos Justwestof themainroad

isthebestNetcafé. ( ( % % Doneuplike aSwiss were hewnbyhandin 2542 1741; Makariou; half- 2542 1741;Makariou; 2693 2841;Gladstonos3; andthehistoricmon- museums h (

% Maroushia Internet Maroushia ( 10am-4pm). 10am-4pm). % 2694 0295;admis- Pafos Archaeo- 2555 2220) .

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CYPRUS CYPRUS CYPRUS hourly buses toPolis(CY£2.30,45minutes). hourly buses of Aphrodite of Aphrodite coast andthenature trailsaroundthe walks includethe remote the nearby Evagora Pallikaridi) self-catering apartments set aroundapool. apartmentsset self-catering CY£0.75; bikes, mopedsandcars. (CY£5.50,40minutes). Lemesos from near thetouristoffice around5am (not (CY£8,3½hours) leave toLefkosia minibuses plus perpersonCY£1.50) The Polis Verginas 13;aptfromCY£25; and Sat) 2468; Vasileos Stasioikou2; around thevillage square. There’s a groves above apretty beach andsmall the Mediterranean tobe–orange theway itused Built over theruinsof ancientMarion, Polis is POLIS 15 minutes). frequent toKato localbuses Pafos (CY£0.70, (CY£3, 1½hours)hours) and viaLemesos (CY£5.50,2½ has amorningbustoLefkosia the market, exceptSunday. leaveBuses fromtheKaravella near busstand &Away There Getting ous stripof touristy locals like it. fabulousfish,cooked theway Tyrimos serves 71; fishdishesCY£5-10) of andpotted statuary plants. boutique hotel, withanelegantcourtyardfull ai III91;s/dwithbathroomCY£41/66; Archiepiskopou Makariou reach theshared bathroom. thekitchen andloungeyou passthrough to street, Trianonisfamily-runandfriendly,but III 99;s/dCY£6/12) Hotel Trianon Sleeping &Eating 276 Alternatively, You canhike toremote, emptybeaches in Dozens of hire placesinKato Pafos rent The oldharbourinKato Pafos isacontinu- Fish TavernNikos Tyrimos Hotel Kiniras Solis Polis square ispacked withpavement cafés and Bougainvillea Hotel Apartments Bougainvillea Hotel NORTH CYPRUS••Lefko NORTH h )

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Aphrodite (CY£1,20minutes). totheBaths ofminutes) buses andweekday main Kyrenia the GateThe well-preserved contains Sights TL30 (40minutes). few hotels andkebab shops. Republic butthere are few facilities–justa tions, manypeopleday-tripacross fromthe ruins. Withtherelaxing of borderrestric- lined withancientmosquesandFrankish half of andthedustystreets thecapital are Life moves atasnail’spaceinthenorthern pop 39,180 LEFKO national treasures. the formof looted churches andneglected the legacyof 1974castsalongshadow in abound andbeaches are breathtaking, but of Northern Cyprus(TRNC).Historicruins refreshingly Turkish undeveloped Republic Growing numbers of tourists are exploringthe CYPRUS NORTH tos) Sunday). Agios Nikolaos Cathedral; Selimiye Sokak) Agios NikolaosCathedral;Selimiye by thegrand (Muslimmystics). whirling Sufidervishes & 2-4.45pmMon-Fri) ( desi; perhrTL2.50; Sokak and ( themainstreet. The Girne Caddesi, 9am-1pm Sat&Sun) % h The historic Selimiye quarter isdominated The historicSelimiye Just insidethewalls, A privateto/fromErcanairportcosts taxi Beach out woodencabins–bestis kum Beach.Ahandfulofsimplecafés rent marks thanhumanfootprintsonwildAltin- You are flipper more toseeturtle likely TURNING TURTLE tasty kebabs. serveswalls, beersare coldandthekitchen The tinycabinshave chintzypictures onthe has hourly buses toPafos hashourlybuses (CY£2.30,45 227 1283;GirneCaddesi;admissionTL4.50; 8am-12.30pm &1.30-5pmMon-Fri) tourist office tourist Ş A (NORTH NICOSIA) A (NORTH ( % Nea Amoroza Nea Amoroza Orbit Internet Café Café Orbit Internet Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com 533-864 1063;cabinsper personTL25) Selimiye Mosque Selimiye h andthere are bankson several tells thestoryof of alocalsect ( % 24hr) 227 2994; hasfastconnections. ( % ( 2632 1114;Kyproleon- % Hasan’s Turtle h

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Sokak insidethewalls. (TL3, 30minutes) runfromMevlevi Tekke haloumi pittas forTL4orless–try haloumi pittas beers, kebabs and (snack restaurants) serving lonelyplanet.com is atthewest endof the harbour. homes. The country of holiday side isvanishing underasea of butthesurrounding Girne is delightful, at aloomingByzantine castle. Theoldpart a picturesque stoneharbour,endingabruptly This istheMediterranean like tobe– itused pop 14,200 GIRNE (KYRENIA) .sunrentacar.com; AbdiIpekciAve 10;perdayfromUK£20) fromKaymakli YoluSokak. leave half-hourly 1617) Güzelyurt (TL3.50,45minutes). regularly forGirne(TL2.50,30minutes) and Gazeteci Kemal A isnorthofThe busstation thecentre on &Around There Getting Restaurant ( pilecarpets. deep centre forcityviews,tinybalconiesandluscious upgrading tothistasteful hotel inthe right Meydan have fans,cartoonbedspreads andtinyTVs. clean Dust hardlydares and atthisbright tosettle Otel Seslikaya Sleeping &Eating most authenticsteam bathinthecountry. steam-bath treatments TL10-30; is the 1209and1326.Nearby cathedral between Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % For carhire, try Saray Hotel Kombos reputable hasseveral Girne Caddesi Sat &Sun) UN –pickupacopyofthe south Lefkosia are beingrestored bythe andMany ancientmonumentsinnorth WITHAPLANCITY ( crossing point. the brochure fromthetouristofficeorvisit % 228 3294;GirneCaddesi186; minibuses toGazima minibuses ı pansiyon ; s/dwithair-conTL90/150; Büyük Hammam 2266 8864; Nicosia Masterplan headquarters

( ( % % bytheLedra Palace Hotel, atthe ( tourist office tourist % 227 3236;GirneCaddesi51; 227 2929) ( nearthemainsquare. Rooms % NORTH CYPRUS••Girne(Kyrenia) NORTH 227 4193; Cumhuriyet Sokak; s/dTL30/35) Sokak; 227 4193;Cumhuriyet h 228 3115;fax4808;Atatürk Sun Rent-a-Car Sun Rent-a-Car ş 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, ik Caddesi. Buses leave Buses ik Caddesi.

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Harbour; s/dwithair-conTL75/100; at coast. Nearbyare Byzantinecathedralruins nesting turtles fromJuneto August. TL4.50; castleofthe romanticCrusader of unmolested Greek Orthodox return fromGazima taxi beacha sandy withinteresting snorkelling –a of pressive butovergrown Graeco-Romanruins and Lefko runhere taxis fromGirne andservice Buses 9am-6pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, ( ruined Frankishchurches. There’s a city of In theisland’snorthwest,ancientwalled CYPRUS AROUND NORTH rent outmopedsandcars. to Ercanairport. chargetaxis TL6totheferry terminal andTL50 See p272 toTurkey. Private forferry services one hour)andLefko Meydani Cemil toGazima Ramadan leave taxis regularly from andservice Buses &Away There Getting Meydani. Cemil Ramadan or there are cheaper restaurants tourist views andarooftop terrace. of theharbour-front hotels, withcrackingseas and bathrooms.Few here. womenstay is grungybutcheap –thetinyrooms have fans themainroundabout,thisworkers’ hostel Below Bingöl GuestHouse Sleeping &Eating h above Kyrenia, ofhas details other 5000-year-old shipwreck. Thetouristoffice TL9; Museum Shipwreck credible partition, theremote % Bellapais Salamis About 9kmnorthof Famagusta are theim- Dozens of rental firmsonZiyaRifkiCaddesi The waterfront hasdozensof expensive Dominating theseafront, White Pearl Hotel White A reminder of whatCypruswaslike before rockiestridgeDraped alongthehighest, 9am-6pm) h 366 2864; Akkule Bastion, 366 2864;Akkule h 9am-4pm) Gazima beaches 9am-5pm) (admission TL6; ş (admission TL6; a. See a. See p272 forferries toTurkey. offers stupendousviewsover the ğ hasspookydungeons anda usa , Byzantine .

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CYPRUS CYPRUS CYPRUS all daySunday. those in Greece,those withtheaddition of Greek Holidays intheRepublic are as the same HOLIDAYS The tourismwebsites have dates –see right gious andsomelaidonspecificallyfor tourists. prus celebrate numerousfestivals, somereli- As wellasnational holidays,bothsidesof Cy- FESTIVALS &EVENTS Cyprus the theMinistryofcontact Foreign in Affairs in Cyprusandembassiesoverseas, elsewhere). Forlistingsofaffairs embassies (Turkishembassies offices handleitsseas wide whileNorthCyprushasjustafew over- The Republicof Cyprusisrepresented world- EMBASSIES &CONSULATES Shops Restaurants offices Government in theRepublic Banks Usual openingtimes inCyprus: BUSINESS HOURS biking. aretains forhikingandmountain fantastic Troodos Massif andPentadactylos Moun- The AkamasandKarpas Peninsulas andthe rides, scubadives, boattripsandparagliding. resortsAll theseaside offer bananaboat ACTIVITIES June toAugust. the north.Pricesincrease by20%to30%from at CY£5/10intheRepublicandTL30/50 start double roomsinhotels orguesthouses Single/ andLarnaka). youth hostels (inLefkosia towns, plusafew campinggroundsandtwo There are cheap inmost hotels orguesthouses ACCOMMODATION CYPRUS DIRECTORY from Lefko ing dusty citrus-producingtownwithaninterest- 3-6pm Thu (Mon afternoon in the north) inthenorth) 3-6pm Thu(Monafternoon 278 See See right information. forvisa West of Lefko museum Republic Republic

h h CYPRUS DIRECTORY ••Accommodation CYPRUS DIRECTORY ( % close earlyonWednesdayandSaturday 8.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, plus Mon afternoon plusMonafternoon 8.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, 228 3365;www.trncgov.com)

h ş ( and % a. a. 11am-2pm &7-11pm 2240 1000;www.mfa.gov.cy) church ş

h a, Güzelyurt(Morfou)isa 7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri & 7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri . Buses runhere. Buses regularly . or North North . % mation, weather For poste restante, sticktothemainpostoffices POST charge.restaurants includea10%service cash andcheques. Pricesatmosthotels and andprivate exchangeBanks change offices MONEY information). tend tospeakonlyTurkish (see p35 formore speak someEnglish,butsettlers inthenorth Cypriots onbothsidesof thedivideusually LANGUAGE World ofCyprus Cyprus. Covers North CyprusTourism North CyprusHomePage North Organisation Cyprus Tourism Useful webresources onCyprus: RESOURCES INTERNET information. ism website hasdates –see below formore tional holidays–theNorthCyprusTour- Muslimholidaysandahostof na- observes pendence Day(1October).NorthCyprus Cypriot Day(1April)andCyprusInde- separate pieceofseparate paper. the north, get ona theimmigration stamp three months withoutavisa. Whenentering for upto andEU countriescanstay Canada USA, nationals of Australia,NewZealand, In boththeRepublicandNorth Cyprus, VISAS operator International accesscode International dial to calltheRepublicfromNorthCyprus, North CyprusfromtheRepublic,dial cards, available fromshops andkiosks.Tocall alloverused Cyprus.Payphones take phone- Roaming-enabled GSM mobile phonescanbe TELEPHONE North Cyprus. must beaddressed toMersin 10,Turkey, andLefko in Lefkosia /index.html) Comprehensive coverage. Covers theRepublic. % Useful numbers: 115 North Cyprus 115 North 00 North Cyprus 00 North % 0123. and more. (www.kypros.org) News, tourist infor- (www.kypros.org) News,tourist (www.holidayinnorthcyprus.com) (www.holidayinnorthcyprus.com) % ş a. Mail toNorthCyprus (www.cypnet.co.uk/cyradise % 80000198 Republic; 80000198 Republic; (www.cyprustourism.org) (www.cyprustourism.org) 00 Republic; 00 Republic; lonelyplanet.com % 0139; not

lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake

279 CYPRUS