DEPARTURES URBAN PRIMER URBAN TRAVEL TRAVEL

Left page, clockwise from private 13th-century palace store by the – design left: the view invigorated with modern style. For there is by Phillippe Starck, who also from Aman ; a serene

sitting room at the new the utmost in sophistication, the gave a makeover earlier this year to 45 Palazzo Volpi; elevated dining standard bearer remains Aman Venice sister property Quadri (alajmo.it/ at the Oro in the Belmond Cipriani; above: the team at ( amanvenice.com), its Grand Canal quadri), the venerable Piazza San Quadri with Philippe Starck, site festooned with Tiepolo frescoes, Marco institution. far left, who spearheaded the restaurant’s redesign while the last luxe hotel to come to the city – following a recent semi- EXPLORE binding prohibition on new hotels – Art continues, as always, to dominate might just be the Gran Meliá Ca’ di the city’s interiors: the season’s Life in Venice Dio (melia.com), slated to open at the standouts are ’s 500th end of the year. anniversary exhibitions at both Reports of the city’s death have been greatly the Doge’s Palace (palazzoducale. WHERE TO EAT visitmuve.it) and the Accademia exaggerated. A shortlist of the new and In-house restaurants highlight many (gallerieaccademia.it) and the multi- hostelries, and some deserve a visit in artist Dancing With Myself show recent openings that are breathing fresh their own right: GLAM at Palazzo at François Pinault’s Punta della Venart (palazzovenart.com) serves up Dogana (palazzograssi.it). There is, for BELMOND CIPRIANI VENICE CIPRIANI BELMOND by Brian Noone © Michelin-starred local fare, while the some, even more beauty on display

energy into La Serenissima. artistic plates at Oro at the Belmond at the newly revamped Dolce & Cipriani ( hotelcipriani.com) match Gabbana (dolcegabbana.com) flagship, the panoramic views, and the where the gold-starred High Jewellery

FIRST IT WAS ENGLISH tourists that remains delightfully aloof to gloomy VOLPI, PALAZZO Marriott Venice Resort & Spa extraordinary cuisine from chef room is a wonder in itself. More were said to have killed Venice, then predictions. Restaurants, shops and © ( jwvenice.com) is most delicious Federico Belluco at Dopolavoro at the bookish visitors will appreciate the DEPARTURES it was the Americans and Chinese, – for now – hotels continue to open while walking in the sprawling garden, JW Marriott (jwvenice.com) makes the design-led hole-in-the-wall bookstore AMAN, AMAN,

and now it’s the hulking cruise apace, proving that there’s always © the rarest of Venetian commodities. boat journey worthwhile. Another Bruno (with Motto) (b-r-u-n-o.it), ships that tower over the city. But something new to discover, no matter Opt for a room in La Residenza with a water taxi away, Venissa’s (venissa.it) while those with epicurean leanings La Serenissima endures, an enchanted how congested the walkways of San city view across the lagoon, and don’t young team and on-site vineyard should book a table at Venice’s first archipelago that has maintained the Marco. miss the spa. The wonderful Palazzo make it the place to go while up north speakeasy, The Chapel Club (fb.com/ architectural dignity of its empire Volpi (palazzovolpi.com) is a three- on Burano. Casual fare is best at AMO chapelclubvenice), which opens in the days and has never wavered from WHERE TO STAY suite masterstroke opened in January (alajmo.it/amo), a pizzeria in the T evening after its namesake chapel CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: LEFT: FROM CLOCKWISE PERUZZO MARCO 44 its beguiling, pugnacious spirit that The peace on the private island of JW of this year which feels like your own Fondaco dei Tedeschi department closes for the day.