BOOM HALL DEMESNE ,

HISTORIC LANDSCAPE APPRAISAL

Historic Landscape Analysis, Significance and Vision

Boom Hall, east front, slopes and riverside wall World War II

Commissioned by

DERRY CITY AND DISTRICT COUNCIL From

SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020

CONTENTS 1 Executive Summary, & Vision & General Conservation Policies ...... 4 2 Introduction ...... 11 HISTORIC ANALYSIS ...... 14 3 Summary of Key Historic Landscape Phases ...... 14 4 Historic Mapping of Demesne ...... 18 5 Analysis of Historic Design and Context...... 33 THEMATIC SURVEYS ...... 38 6 Structures ...... 38 7 Historic Views ...... 46 8 Historic Setting ...... 55 9 Horticulture ...... 60 10 Trees ...... 63 11 Management of the Park ...... 71 12 Archaeological Evidence and Potential ...... 77 13 Gaps in Knowledge & Further Work Required ...... 86 STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE ...... 90 14 Historic Significance ...... 90 RECOMMENDATIONS: THEMATIC AND CHARACTER AREAS ...... 96 15 Thematic Recommendations ...... 96 16 Summary of Key Issues and Condition in Character AReas ...... 103 17 Character Area Recommendations ...... 105 APPENDICES ...... 112 18 Appendix 1 Key References ...... 112 19 Appendix 2 Chronology of Demesne...... 114 20 Appendix 3 Historic Development ...... 122 21 Appendix 4 Context of Derry Villa Demesnes ...... 137 22 Appendix 5 Register of Historic Parks and Demesnes of Special Historic Interest (NIHE) ...... 144 23 Appendix 6 Photographs of Landscape Structures ...... 145 24 Appendix 7 Gazetteer of Selected Notable Trees ...... 149 25 Appendix 8 Ancient Oak Trees in Ireland, T Reeves-Smyth ...... 154

See also accompanying pdf overlay file ‘Overlay Historic Maps LIDAR Boom Hall SRHEL 09 Sep 20’.

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FIGURES

Figure 1 Study Area and Key Features Map...... 3 Figure 2 1689 Siege Map (Walker, Map of Derry as Besieged in 1688-89)...... 18 Figure 3 1689 Siege Maps (north at bottom)...... 19 Figure 4 1830 Ordnance Survey, 1st edition 6” scale...... 20 Figure 5 1848-52 Ordnance Survey, 2nd edition 6” scale...... 22 Figure 6 1848-52 Ordnance Survey, 2nd edition 6” scale, detail of core of demesne...... 23 Figure 7 1904 Ordnance Survey, 1st edition 25” scale...... 24 Figure 8 1904 Ordnance Survey, 1st edition 25” scale, detail of core of demesne...... 25 Figure 9 1932 Lease Map, Marks Surveyor, based on 1932 OS. (credit?) ...... 26 Figure 10 1932 Ordnance Survey, 6” scale...... 27 Figure 11 1948-49 Ordnance Survey, 5th edition 6” scale...... 28 Figure 12 1949 Sale Map, Marks Surveyor, based on OS. (credit?) ...... 29 Figure 13 1962-63 Ordnance Survey, 25” scale...... 30 Figure 14 1962-63 Ordnance Survey, 25” scale, detail of core of demesne...... 31 Figure 15 Current Topographical Survey...... 32 Figure 16 Merchant Villas Closest to Boom Hall, Ordnance Survey 2nd edition surveyed 1848-52...... 34 Figure 17 Derry City Context, Ordnance Survey 5th edition surveyed 1948-49...... 37 Figure 18 Early C20 view of Boom Hall from the Gransha estate, ...... 49 Figure 19 Key Historic Views...... 50 Figure 20 East Front of Hall, set on a terrace above a level lawn, c.1890s (Ayton)...... 61 Figure 21 Boom Hall from the south-east, early C20 (NMNI Lawrence Collection, WAG 2412) ...... 66 Figure 22 Boom Hall from the south-east, early C20, detail (NMNI Lawrence Collection, WAG 2412)...... 67 Figure 23 Boom Hall, east front, slopes and riverside wall World War II ...... 67 Figure 24 LiDAR coverage of the demesne for areas without trees (Foyle River Gardens)...... 79 Figure 25 LiDAR coverage of the whole demesne including below trees (Foyle River Gardens)...... 80 Figure 26 Aerial photograph with possible position of Quonset/Nissen huts in World War II...... 81 Figure 27 The line of the Boom in the early C21 (B. O’Donnell)...... 85 Figure 28 c.1690 Siege Features map overlying 1830 Ordnance Survey Map...... 124 Figure 29 c.1690 Siege Features map overlaid with current topographical survey...... 125 Figure 30 c.1690 Siege Features map overlaid with current aerial photograph...... 127 Figure 31 Late C19 photograph of the entrance steps to the Hall...... 133 Figure 32 1909 Forecourt and entrance steps...... 133 Figure 33 Late C19 photograph of the east, garden front and croquet lawn (original with R Bigger)...... 134 Figure 34 Late C19/early C20 photograph of the east, garden front (Ayton)...... 134 Figure 35 c.1993 The derelict Hall, the west, entrance front, photograph...... 134

© Dr S Rutherford for SR Historic Environment Ltd 2020

All rights reserved. No part of this report may be produced or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system without prior permission from the author.

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Modern Hospice Entrance

Modern section of main drive

Stream/culvert

‘Ravine’ and bridges

4 Modern house in farm yard

Historic main Slip Garden drive 3 King James’s Well

Walled kitchen garden The Grove

Riverside Walk

1 5 2 Flower garden

Hall Forecourt Former lawns

Modern cycle path Line of 4 pollard oak

Figure 1 Study Area and Key Features Map. The study area boundary follows the Registered park boundary (in red) except for the Front Avenue, detached to the south-west.

Character Areas: 1. Hall and Pleasure Grounds 2. East slopes 3. Kitchen Garden, Stables, Yards, Slip Garden 4. Park 5. Front Avenue at east end of Boomhall Lane (part)

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1 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY, & VISION & GENERAL CONSERVATION POLICIES

1.1 PURPOSE AND SCOPE OF THIS REPORT This Historic Landscape Assessment is an independent report for Derry City and Strabane District Council and addresses principally the historic environment within a study area defined by the boundary in Figure 1. This is based on the Council’s ownership boundary but also includes a separately owned parcel within the demesne.

The report has been prepared by historic environment specialist Dr Sarah Rutherford, of SR Historic Environment Ltd, as an Appendix to the Boom Hall Conservation Management Plan prepared for the Council by Alastair Coey Architects (ACA) which addresses the three major structures: the Hall, stable block and garden walls. Together these two reports provide a sustainable and practical approach to the conservation of the surviving historic environment of Boom Hall demesne.

The key purpose is to provide an independent, clearly arranged and justified statement of significance of the historic environment underpinned by analysis of the historic documentation and of the survival and condition of the study area (see Section 15). Drawing on this understanding it provides a vision for conservation policies for the conservation of the various aspects of the historic environment (see Sections 6-12) based on best practice, given current circumstances, against which proposals can be evaluated and tested.

Any proposed alterations to the fabric, including those subject to the statutory planning system, or long term management should be appraised to identify the effects on the historic significance, fabric and character. Should major alterations be considered a detailed historic impact assessment would be required of effects on the historic character of the area or feature affected and its significance, to define constraints, together with a landscape and visual impact assessment in accordance with Institute of Environmental Assessment guidance. This detailed analysis would in turn define an understanding of the impact of the proposals on the physical fabric of the particular feature, and its historic character and role in the landscape, together with its immediate and wider setting and the level of change proposed and its acceptability to the individual feature and to the demesne as a whole. 1.2 SUMMARY OF THE LAYOUT OF THE REPORT The report is divided into five sections: 1. Executive Summary, Vision and Conservation Policies, and Introduction. 2. Historic Analysis including historic phases and the historic context of Boom Hall which establishes a basis for understanding the significances. 3. Thematic Surveys of the various aspects of the demesne design and fabric that affect management and conservation including Issues, Policies and Recommendations for each. 4. Statement of Significance both beyond Boom Hall and of the individual elements. 5. Historic Character Areas, main issues, policies and recommendations based on the thematic subjects addressed above. 6. Appendices containing further information underpinning the report.

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1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE SURVIVING BOOM HALL LANDSCAPE The designed landscape is an important late C18 villa demesne incorporating earlier features, with C19 developments, which is of regional historic interest. Despite the loss of one-third of the parkland, the layout of the surviving area and most of the key historic landscape features survive, although the most significant built features are ruinous or nearly so (the Hall, stables and kitchen garden wall) and part of the demesne is detached (Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane). While the gardens have been abandoned (but not irreversibly lost) the parkland survives well including many important ancient trees and is traditionally managed as pasture.

The special significance of the designed landscape is recognised by Department for Communities Historic Environment Division (HED) designation on the Register of Historic Parks, Gardens and Demesnes of Special Historic Interest. It is anomalous that the Hall is not listed as it is both important architecturally and as the focus of the designed landscape, whereas the stable block is listed.

The demesne design included a strong historic and cultural association with the 1689 which has local, national and international resonance. This is most evident in the survival of King James’s Well, a spring on the slopes which became one of the main landscape features in the demesne, and by the nearby ‘Boom Stone’ which was flanked by two cannon. This historical event is also represented by a considerable degree of archaeological evidence and potential.

The demesne forms part of a nationally important ensemble of C18 and C19 Derry merchant villa demesnes laid out along the banks of the , which is of comparable quality with groups of riverside villa demesnes elsewhere in Ireland. The oldest trees, the oak pollards, are probably of C17 origin and as a group have regional and possibly national significance. 1.4 SIGNIFICANCE OF INDIVIDUAL AREAS AND FEATURES While the historic landscape design should be considered as a whole as far as possible, the various levels of significance of areas within it to the historic design can be identified. The following is based on tables of significance of key features to the landscape design in Section 15.3. A Exceptional significance: Fundamental to the design concept or to historic interest of park. B Considerable significance: Essential parts or elements specific to the vocabulary of the design. C Some significance: of historic interest; contributes to design complexity. D Little significance or neutral. E Damages the historic character.

Significance A: The most important areas to the demesne design have the most intensive design and the strongest relationship to the Hall. The earliest ornamental features, and planting (late C18) generally relate to these areas. They include the pleasure grounds, Grove and forecourt around the Hall (Area 1), the Main Drive (Areas 1 & 4), the walled kitchen garden and flower garden (Area 3). King James’s Well and the ‘Boom Stone’ (Area 2) were the main ornamental features of the demesne design, redolent of the historic events of the 1689 Siege in which the site played such a major part. The C19 and earlier trees are of this significance as, whatever their origin, together they were incorporated as the planted framework of the design at its zenith.

Significance B: The areas of slightly less, but still considerable, significance to the design which contributed strongly to the ornamental character, or formed the essential setting for the areas of

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exceptional significance. This includes the East Slopes (Area 2) including the riverside shore, walks and wall, the stream ravine and bridge(s) to the north; also the stable block, yard walls and the Slip Garden behind the kitchen garden as the setting for its walls (Area 3). Front Avenue and its gateway (Area 5, in Boomhall Lane), while formerly the most important approach to the Hall, is also of this level of significance as it has been irreversibly detached from the demesne and the parkland setting lost. The later individual features and planting, of the C19 and early C20, are or were generally of similar significance to the design.

Significance C: The areas that contribute some historic significance to the landscape design are generally the outer areas and the utilitarian areas that had lower design complexity: the glasshouses and garden sheds (Area 3), the park which is not visible from the main drive or the Grove (Area 4), and the interior of the yards.

Significance D: In this case modern features which do not harm the design, views or setting, including the outer half of the main drive (Area 4) which is sensitively sited, and, arguably, the River Foyle Bridge which although a major feature in the setting is elegant in its design and does not block key views greatly.

Significance E: These are damaging features in the demesne or immediate setting, including the bungalow in the farmyard (Area 3), the cycle path (Area 1), self-sown vegetation (all areas), modern fencing (all areas) and views of modern features in the setting, particularly roads and the hospice. 1.5 SURVIVAL & CONDITION Much of the designed landscape framework with the surviving demesne survives but has suffered from decay and neglect resulting from abandonment of buildings and greatly reduced management or abandonment of the land during the later C20 and C21.

Apart from the ruinous state of the key buildings, the most extensive damaging changes result from the alteration of land management and thus the historic character as the setting for the Hall and pleasure grounds. The pleasure grounds (Area 1), flower garden and kitchen garden (Area 3) have been left to scrub or are managed for grazing. This is reversible. Abandonment of the intensive horticultural features has led to the loss of ephemeral schemes in the pleasure grounds, kitchen and flower gardens and orchards, which could be reinstated or the character evoked. Despite this many trees and some shrubs survive. King James’s Well and the ‘Boom Stone’ are derelict and their original form and setting are unclear although the Stone was formerly flanked by two cannon which are presumably those mentioned in the 1862 sale particulars and survived until the 1970s.

The management of the park (Areas 1 the Grove; 2 the Slopes; 4 the Park) as pasture with specimen trees has continued along traditional lines. This regime perpetuated much of the intended historic character, although with some decline, but this is reversible. The endurance of Front Avenue drive and gateway (Area 5) is a surprising survival of one of the most important features, considering that it was detached from the demesne by Madam’s Bank Road, and it remains to a considerable degree intact including the listed gateway and walls although the immediate park setting is irreversibly lost. Built developments within the surviving demesne are surprisingly limited to one, a bungalow, which is localised in one of the farmyards. It causes little damage to key fabric of the design (Significance A)

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although it damages views from the main drive and park (Area 4). The hospice on former demesne land is visible but generally recessive in views, and the Foyle Bridge could be regarded as a positive asset in views, while the road embankments and their structures cannot. The new section of the main drive has been sensitively sited in a remote part of the park and does not damage the historic character, but the new cycle path south of the Hall has blurred the historic circulation pattern in the most sensitive area, the core of the design around the Hall.

Estate buildings and yards have the potential to be converted from their original functions to appropriate new uses, minimizing new structures in the demesne. New uses will alter their character to some degree, but if sensitively designed will ensure a use for otherwise redundant buildings and will not damage the significant character of the demesne. Car parking is very limited and has caused little damage to the fabric or character but could be an issue if greater public access occurs.

Losses in the surviving demesne are relatively few and largely by neglect. They include importantly the ornamental pleasure ground and garden layouts with any garden ornaments such as seats and sculpture, glasshouses and associated buildings. The riverside wall survives in relict form and subject to flooding. The historic fencing has gone and its form is unclear but probably it was iron park rail which made a strong contribution to the high quality presentation. The formerly impressive riverside wall is fragmentary.

The survival of the key wider setting relating to the River Foyle and the areas beyond is remarkably complete considering the area it encompasses, with few damaging visual intrusions. The associated merchant’s villa demesnes on the west bank north of Boom Hall have survived in varying condition with the main loss being The Farm to the south. 1.6 VULNERABILITY The demesne is vulnerable both to further decay in the immediate future, and then to significant change of character and fabric in the course of rescuing it from decay and resurrecting it sustainably. The areas of greatest vulnerability to decay and then inappropriate change are largely connected with existing buildings and their environs. These include the Hall, stables and yards, estate buildings, the kitchen garden and former orchard areas, and the fine stone Front Avenue gateway at the entrance to Boomhall Lane (in multiple ownership). The grazed landscape is fairly robust while it continues to be managed traditionally (although the historic character and fabric are in decline). Abandoned areas around the Hall will deteriorate further. The landscape is particularly vulnerable to inappropriate damage to the historic character via a major change of use from a largely private demesne, e.g. to a public facility with C21 features and management required.

The effect of proposed changes of use, management, repairs or new development should be carefully considered not just on the areas of highest significance but also on those of lesser significance as part of the whole Registered landscape design and as the setting for areas of higher significance and the wider riverside and Derry demesne ensemble setting. 1.7 VISION AND CONSERVATION APPROACH The vision and resultant broad conservation approach below are based on the significances and analysis of Boom Hall summarised above and presented in detail in the rest of the document. This

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offers a model of best practice for the conservation of the unique historic environment while responding to the circumstances of the site and C21 constraints. Proposals for the historic environment should be evaluated and tested against these policies. They are presented here at the front of the document for ease of reference.

1.7.1 Vision An inspired vision is required in the approach to conserving Boom Hall. This must balance the conservation of the historic environment and long term sustainability: 1. Repair and regenerate the demesne to evoke the variety and quality of the ornamental grounds of this 1770s rural merchant’s villa, and at their zenith by c.1900 as reflected on the 1904 Ordnance Survey map, given C21 circumstances and constraints. Prioritise surviving features of highest landscape significance. 2. Mitigate irreversible changes, repair the results of neglect and remove damaging interventions where possible; ensure future changes do not compromise the significance of the historic character and fabric. 3. Protect the surviving rural demesne and river setting.

1.7.2 Conservation Approach The following conservation approach amplifies the Vision as follows: 1. Repair and regenerate the key framework and character of the demesne based on a sustainable vision as the essential setting for the merchant’s villa, within the associated designed setting of nearby demesnes, and the River Foyle and surrounding rural setting. 2. Repair the Hall as a prestigious country house set in a high quality demesne. 3. Repair significant historic buildings to reflect their most important developed phase. 4. Repair and regenerate the landscape as a palimpsest of design layers as established at the zenith of its ornamental development by c.1900 (as reflected on the 1904 OS) , given C21 constraints. 5. Reunite elements of the designed landscape under a management regime based on this vision and restore where possible or evoke the integrated historic design, given C21 constraints. 6. Retain later features where these do not damage significant aspects of the composition, or mitigate their effect on the historic character as far as possible. 7. Changes and new features will be acceptable where they do not damage the important aspects of the historic character and fabric.

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8. Site significant changes in areas of lesser design significance, screened from key areas of the demesne and the surrounding historic setting. 9. The design of new interventions should complement the demesne and the historic setting. 10. Manage the site to conserve and enhance habitats without compromising the essential historic character.

1.7.3 Site-Wide Conservation Policies These policies are based on the analysis and conclusions below and amplify the Vision above. They inform the policies and recommendations in the thematic sections and in the character areas to guide the conservation of the historic environment. • G1: Repair and regenerate this, the surviving ornamental heart of the country demesne, within its wider historic setting, focussed on the 1770s merchant’s villa. Base this on the landscape design at its most fully developed (reflected on the 1904 OS). Where information on historic precedent for reinstatement of features is absent use closely comparable contextual models, particularly from nearby demesnes of similar type, e.g. Brook Hall and Thorn Hill. • G2: Balance conserving the significant historic fabric and character of the designed landscape with other aspects including the conservation of significant archaeological features, key species and habitats, and C21 operational requirements e.g. public access. • G3: Prioritise for restoration features with the highest landscape significance which are deteriorating. Repair and new uses for the Hall, stables, yards and kitchen garden should conserve their mid-late C19 appearance within the landscape. • G4: As far as possible, remove historically inappropriate features and planting that damage the historic design established by the mid-C19, while ensuring that removal has no damaging consequences. Otherwise mitigate the appearance and effect on the historic environment as far as possible e.g. by using historically appropriate species for screening belts, evoking the appearance of C19 surfacing for paths and drives and using historic models for boundary treatments in visually sensitive areas. • G5: Repair and maintain surviving significant aspects of the historic environment to a high standard before considering reinstating lost features or adding new features. • G6: Maintain and enhance features of wildlife value, and enhance habitats where this does not conflict with key aspects of the historic character or damage historic fabric. Balance the conservation of key species and habitats and the maintenance and restoration of significant elements of the designed landscape to perpetuate the historic character and fabric.

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• G7: Reunite management of the surviving demesne in a single historically appropriate regime that conserves the historic character and fabric as a whole. Include Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane south of A515 dual carriageway. • G8: Depart from the historic layout, management and planting and introduce modern features only where there is no alternative, or where no significant damage will be caused to the historic design, fabric and character, or where this will prevent further loss and damage, and where maintenance can be adequately funded and managed in the long term. • G9: Where alterations are unavoidable site them in areas of low historic significance to the design and ensure they cause as little visual and irreversible physical damage to the historic design as possible. • G10: Resist damaging changes to the setting, particularly those affecting key views. • G11: Liaise with stakeholders and owners/ managers of key elements of the setting, e.g. Brook Hall and Thorn Hill, to ensure appropriate conservation and management regimes are adopted to perpetuate the historic character and fabric without significant damage. • G12: Ensure that this Conservation Management Plan is in regular use as a key tool which informs short, medium and long term management planning. Update it at planned intervals. • G13: Review policies and recommendations in this plan every two years and update as required. Update the whole plan every 5 years.

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2 INTRODUCTION

2.1 PURPOSE This Historic Landscape Assessment is an independent report for Derry City and Strabane District Council and addresses principally the historic environment within a study area defined by the boundary in Figure 1. This is based on the Council’s ownership boundary but also includes a separately owned parcel within the demesne.

The report has been prepared by historic environment specialist Dr Sarah Rutherford, of SR Historic Environment Ltd, as ann Appendix to the Boom Hall Conservation Management Plan prepared for the Council by Alastair Coey Architects (ACA) which addresses the three major structures: the Hall, stable block and garden walls. Together these two reports provide a sustainable and practical approach to the conservation of the surviving historic environment of Boom Hall demesne.

The key purpose of the report is to provide an independent, clearly arranged and justified statement of significance of the historic environment underpinned by analysis of the historic documentation and of the survival and condition of the study area (see Section 15). Drawing on this understanding it provides a vision for conservation policies for the conservation of the various aspects of the historic environment (see Sections 6-12) based on best practice, given current circumstances, against which proposals can be evaluated and tested.

The summary of individual significances (see Section 15.3) provides a basis for the assessment of areas and features should potential alteration be considered, whether for change of use, or related to visual intrusion. Any proposed alterations should be appraised to identify the effects on the historic significance, fabric and character. Should alterations be considered a detailed historic impact assessment would be required of effects on the historic character of the area or feature affected and its significance, to define constraints, together with a landscape and visual impact assessment in accordance with Institute of Environmental Assessment guidance. This detailed analysis would in turn define an understanding of the impact of the proposals on the physical fabric of the particular feature, and its historic character and role in the landscape, together with its immediate and wider setting.

This can be used to inform the management planning necessary to implement a long term conservation maintenance and management strategy, and to identify broadly the scope of works required. It can also be used when making proposals for significant change. These should be tested against the significances identified in this document to identify the effect on the historic environment and whether it is acceptable. Any significant change affecting the historic environment should be considered carefully to ensure it is justifiable and does not significantly damage the special historic interest or the wider setting. 2.2 SCOPE, SOURCES & STUDY AREA

2.2.1 Scope of the Report The scope includes the development and appraisal of the historic design, planting, features and structures, including archaeology, of the designed landscape of Boom Hall. This is not restricted to

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by ownership but is based on the extent of the main historic assets – the villa, the surviving designed landscape and an area now detached from the main demesne, Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane, which was a key element of the designed landscape and remains in Council ownership.

2.2.2 Sources This report is based upon documentary research and site survey carried out by members of Alastair Coey Architects for the Conservation Management Plan. The report represents the independent analysis and findings of the author. As part of the preparation of the report, it has drawn upon information supplied by Bartholomew O’Donnell, Robert Bigger and Officers from Derry City and Strabane District Council and material obtained via internet research. It is also informed by a walk- over survey carried out by the author in August 2020. Contextual research sources included the author’s library, historic publications available on the internet and information generously supplied by garden historian Terence Reeves-Smyth. A list of key documentary sources is given in Appendix 1.

2.2.3 Study Area The surviving area of Boom Hall demesne is considerably reduced from the 55 ha. (134 acres) it covered at its most fully developed by the early C20 and before the loss of considerable areas to roads, residential development and the hospice in the later C20 and early C21. The surviving 28 ha. study area includes the most significant historic features of the demesne before it was reduced in size. For the purposes of this analysis the surviving landscape has been divided into 5 Historic Character Areas based on their historic design characteristics. These are for guidance only and to help understand the landscape in more detail. The area comprises: 1. 2.5 ha. Hall lawns and pleasure grounds including the forecourt and Grove, Character Area 1. 2. 5 ha. Pleasure ground slopes leading down to the river Foyle, Character Area 2. 3. 2.5 ha. Stables, yards, Kitchen Garden and Slip Garden (including former orchards), and attached flower garden within a ha-ha. This includes a property in separate ownership from the Council with a modern house in the northern-most former yard, and the yard between this and the stable block, Character Area 3. 4. 16 ha. parkland including the main drive, Character Area 4. 5. 2 ha. Front Avenue in Boomhall Lane, a sycamore avenue and former main drive detached from the remaining demesne, Character Area 5.

The boundaries of these areas and key features are shown in Figure 1. 2.3 RECOMMENDATIONS Broad recommendations have been included at the end of the thematic surveys, derived from the identification of significances, issues and policies for best practice. These are derived from best practice in terms of the conservation of the historic environment as related to the known circumstances within the study area. It is appreciated that these may pose challenges in implementation and they may not all practically be achievable at present due to financial constraints and divided ownership, but it is useful to have them set out in order to guide the future direction of management and change.

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Priorities and Timescale for Recommendations The recommendations are prioritised taking into account issues relating to the conservation of the historic environment on the scale of: Priority: Highest (urgent) High Medium Low The priorities have been assigned based on several factors assessed alongside each other: • the relative levels of significance of the features and their longevity in the design, and their contribution to the key periods of the historic design • level of vulnerability of extant features to deterioration and urgency of the need to act to prevent loss • the effect that restoring or reinstating lost features will have on enhancing key areas of the historic environment and re-establishing significance These priorities in turn have been assessed as requiring attention within a particular urgency, on the timescale of: • Ongoing • Short (within 2 years) • Medium (2-5 years) • Long term (5-10 years)

2.4 CURRENT BASELINE INFORMATION ABOUT THE DEMESNE Information about the present uses, historic environment designations and condition of the demesne, and a brief description including the setting is given in the main Alastair Coey Architects’ Conservation Management Plan Sections: Preface, 1.1 The Site, 2.2 Designations, 2.3 Topography and Setting, and 2.4 Setting. The latest edition of the entry on the Register of Parks, Gardens and Demesnes of Special Historic Interest is given in Appendix 5 of this report. 2.5 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The author is indebted to Jenny O’Donnell, Capital Works Project Manager, Tony Monaghan, Regeneration Manager, and Colin Kennedy, Natural Environment Regeneration Manager at Derry City and Strabane District Council and staff at Alastair Coey Architects for information contributing to, and guidance on, this report. Historic information was also supplied by Robert Bigger. Dr Colm Donnelly of Queen’s University, , supplied current archaeological reports.

Various experts kindly offered advice including garden historian Terence Reeves-Smyth, and local historian Bartholomew O’Donnell both of whose detailed knowledge of its history was greatly valued.

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HISTORIC ANALYSIS

3 SUMMARY OF KEY HISTORIC LANDSCAPE PHASES

3.1 INTRODUCTION The following historic phases of the development of the landscape are summarised from the analysis and sources used in Appendix 3 Historic Development. The paucity of documentary evidence for works in the landscape of the demesne mean that conclusions have been drawn based largely on mapping and the evidence of the site itself. Much of the activity in the early phases is undocumented and the various aspects are in some cases conjectural. Suggestions are based on analysis of the major phases of estate and building activity by various owners and their financial situation, assessed with other documentation and analysis of the past and current site features. Further documentary evidence may amplify our understanding of the phases identified or identify further phases of development such as during the period 1690-1770 and the early C19.

This section synthesises and summarises the detailed information in the following Appendices: Appendix 1 Key References Appendix 2 Chronology of Demesne Appendix 3 Historic Development The whole demesne has been addressed for completeness of understanding of the surviving area. 3.2 LIKELY KEY PHASES INFLUENCING THE PRESENT LANDSCAPE

3.2.1 Mid-Late C17 Military Landscape Key documents: Maps of 1689 siege.

Activities: • Charles Fort built c.1649. • Boom built across River Foyle for Jacobite forces in 1689 by M. Pointis, the engineer of French King Louis IV. The west end was anchored near the Charles Fort. • In 1689 trenches and a battery built. • Existing pollard oaks retained amongst the military features, possibly as cover.

Significance to the Present Landscape Little physical evidence remains on site and it is unclear whether the military landscape influenced the layout since 1770. The main significance is for archaeological potential and for associations with the establishment and consolidation in their present form of the UK and monarchy, and the parliamentary constitution.

3.2.2 1770s-1830 Robert & James Alexander (1770s-90) Also possibly General William Alexander (c.1806-17) Key document: 1st edition 6” scale Ordnance Survey surveyed 1830

Activities: • House, stables and walled garden built on new sites, 1770s.

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• The house overlooked the river and the canted bay was designed to enjoy views along the slopes as well as east across the river and north to distant mountains. The upper floors had views of the city to the south (see 1819 sketch in Trinity College Library, Dublin). • Drive off Culmore Road past stables to Hall, framed by an avenue east of the stream. Lodge or cottages at entrance. • Demesne landscape initiated in naturalistic style and planted and farmed ornamentally. • The Grove initiated and pleasure ground planting around the Hall, in informal style. • The embankment below the Hall may have been remodelled to create a smoothly graded slope down to the water. • Two avenue walks to the riverside along the top and down across the slopes to the shore. • An existing spring ornamented as King James’s Well, one of the key landscape features, with paths leading to it. • Boom Stone retained as another key feature on the slopes above the river, mentioned by Macaulay in 1848. • Riverside wall probably built.

Significance to the Present Landscape This is of high significance to the whole demesne as it established the vision and fabric of the earliest surviving and identifiable phase of the present landscape. The design and features formed the basis of the ornamental setting for the new Hall. Later alterations did not greatly change the historic character but increased the complexity in similar style.

3.2.3 1830-c.1850 Probably Daniel Baird c.1850 (possibly 2nd/3rd Earls or tenants 1830s-40s) Key documents: 2nd edition 6” scale Ordnance Survey surveyed 1848-52 (probably 1850-52); Nolan Estate Map dated 1856 but probably c.1849.

Activities: • Extended the Hall to the NE with structures in a service yard. • New main drive, Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane, with lodge and stone gateway. • Additional park tree planting in similar style to existing. • Removal of park fences and former boundary tree lines. • New flower garden south of the walled garden bounded by ha-ha, 3 glasshouses by wall. • New Slip Garden north of the walled garden to increase the productive areas replacing stack yard. • Remodelled forecourt, reducing the size (in association with new front porch?). • Extended and completed The Grove. • Apparently fenced the garden from the slopes, Grove and park. • Culverted the park stream as far as the ravine across the north slope to the river.

Significance to the Present Landscape This is of high significance to the whole demesne as the mid-C19 consolidation and completion of the late-C18 vision in similar character, adding complexity. These two phases comprise the majority of the ornamental character and fabric that survives.

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3.2.4 Late C19-Early C20 Tenants of Maturin-Bairds Key Documents: 1st edition 25” scale Ordnance Survey surveyed 1904; OS 6” 1932 and 1949; Lease Map 1932; Conveyance Map 1949. Historic photographs including Lawrence collection NMNI.

Activities: • Sycamore avenues along both drives. • Sycamore specimens in park. • Possibly other planting which has yet to be identified.

Significance to the Present Landscape This is of localised high significance for the addition of many trees that complemented and reinforced the unity of the park planting design based on the late C18 vision, which survive and make a strong contribution to the historic character. 3.3 SUMMARY OF DAMAGE & LOSSES IN EXISTING DEMESNE

3.3.1 Overview The historic fabric and character of the remains of the demesne as it exists now survive to a great degree, remarkable given the extended period of neglect. This reflects resilience of the fabric during basic but essential management, particularly the farming regime of the pasture and walled garden. Despite the C20 losses to the wider demesne much of the significant aspects of the ornamental layout and fabric survives in recognizable form without irreversible change or insensitive repair.

The following summary of issues in the Historic Character Areas refers to the surviving demesne.

3.3.2 Area 1 House and Pleasure Ground including the Grove 1. House ruinous. 2. Surrounding garden/pleasure ground derelict and overgrown with unchecked vegetation; paths and historic boundary lost. Damage to fabric from World War II buildings. 3. Forecourt overgrown and historic character obscured. 4. Adjacent stretch of Front Avenue drive gone. 5. Some trees in decline. 6. Historically inappropriate fencing. 7. New drive/cycle path does not follow historic precedent but links to detached section of Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane. 8. Views from house obscured by trees. 9. Grove has become part of the park but should be ornamental pleasure ground lawns. It is overgrazed, trees suffering from damage.

3.3.3 Area 2 East Slopes 1. Pasture poorly managed, scrub encroaching, overgrazed in places. 2. Some trees in decline. 3. King James’s Well derelict; original form of structure and setting unclear. 4. ‘Boom Stone’ abandoned, original setting unclear. 5. Paths lost but evidence of routes may survive below turf.

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6. Riverside wall largely gone. Remaining stretches vulnerable to inundation and collapse. 7. Historically inappropriate fencing. 8. Stream valley (ravine) overgrown and inaccessible. 9. Condition/survival of bridge(s) across stream unclear.

3.3.4 Area 3 Kitchen Garden, Stables, Yards 1. Stables ruinous. 2. Yard walls in poor condition. Part of north yard wall replaced by modern garden wall for bungalow. 3. Kitchen garden grazed instead of in productive horticulture. 4. Kitchen garden wall damaged in places and large sections gone at east end. 5. Ivy and livestock damaging surviving sections of kitchen garden wall. 6. Glasshouses and other kitchen and flower garden structures gone. 7. Flower garden grazed but should be ornamental garden feature. 8. Slip Garden has lost orchard trees. 9. Sections of the flower garden ha-ha gone. 10. Modern house replacing former cottage in north yard is prominent in approach along drive and from park and damages views.

3.3.5 Park 1. Pasture poorly managed in and in poor condition. 2. Historically inappropriate fencing within and around the area. 3. Historically inappropriate structures: sheds, etc. 4. Many park specimen trees and Avenue sycamores have been lost. 5. Historically inappropriate hedges, e.g. hawthorn hedge. 6. Drive surfacing historically inappropriate; black tarmac should be local gravel appearance. 7. Stream culvert damaged and unchecked reeds encroaching along its course. 8. Light pollution from surrounding roads. 9. Views of hospice and roads damage the pastoral character.

3.3.6 Front Avenue Drive in Boomhall Lane 1. The drive and avenue are detached from the demesne by Madam’s Bank Road and the immediate parkland setting has gone, but the feature is still linked to the demesne under the road/bridge. 2. Lodge rebuilt as larger house. 3. Gateway walls declining, ivy damaging the structure, gates gone. 4. Some sycamore specimens are in poor condition. 5. Sycamore specimens behind Culmore Road gateway do not have TPOs. 6. Some specimens are not in Council ownership but belong to individual adjacent properties. 7. Drive surfacing historically inappropriate. The black tarmac should be local gravel appearance.

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4 HISTORIC MAPPING OF DEMESNE The following maps are also reproduced in the layered pdf which forms part of this report as semi- transparent overlays (and accompanying pdf overlay file ‘Overlay Historic Maps LIDAR Boom Hall SRHEL 09 Sep 20.pdf’). Extracts are reproduced in Figures 28 -30.

Figure 2 1689 Siege Map (Walker, Map of Derry as Besieged in 1688-89). Main Features of Note • Note that north is to the right and the approximate site of the present house is ringed in red. • The Charles Fort was south of the present Foyle Bridge. • The detailed shot shows the area of the later Boom Hall demesne.

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Figure 3 1689 Siege Maps (north at bottom).

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Figure 4 1830 Ordnance Survey, 1st edition 6” scale.

Main Features of Note • Park and pleasure grounds laid out since 1770 but were not complete. • The Hall was positioned close to the edge of the steep slope down to the river and its orientation made the most of the view across the river: the main garden front to the south- east, a lesser garden front to the south-west, the service front to the north-east and the entrance to the north-west overlooking the forecourt.

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• The main drive followed the current line, passing the stable block to the forecourt. The stable block was visible from the drive as it passed by but was not a distant feature • The tree lines of former field boundaries evident; some fields still enclosed and not yet planted with specimens. • Belts to north-west and south-west of park. • The Grove was not fully planted. • The two walks from the Hall overlooking the river had been laid out, the northern one with two parallel paths. • King James’s Well was not marked. • The drive to The Farm was in place but no Front Avenue drive from the west.

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Figure 5 1848-52 Ordnance Survey, 2nd edition 6” scale.

Main Features of Note • Recent Front Avenue drive, but without avenue framing it. Gateway and lodge built. • The previous (and current) main drive became a service entrance. • Internal drives along the west side of the Grove and to the north of the farmyards. • Field boundaries removed. • Whole park now planted in landscape style.

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Figure 6 1848-52 Ordnance Survey, 2nd edition 6” scale, detail of core of demesne.

Main Features of Note • New yard against north front of Hall. No steps up to porch. • Forecourt shape altered, area reduced. This probably related to the introduction of the new drive from the west. • Flower garden south of the kitchen garden. Enclosed by ha-ha. • Two bridges over the stream ravine. • King James’s Well marked. It was enclosed by two paths leading off the upper path as it headed north. • New paths heading down the slopes to the riverside. • Informal lawns and shrubbery around the Hall. • New area of Slip Garden, L-shaped, north of the kitchen garden.

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Figure 7 1904 Ordnance Survey, 1st edition 25” scale.

Main Features of Note • Similar layout to the mid-C19. Some simplification evident. This may result from the surveyor’s omitting detail, e.g. in the kitchen garden and Slip Garden. • Sycamore avenues along the two drives. • Riverside walk paths not shown, had they gone? • North boundary of the Slip Garden altered, enlarged. • Internal drives not shown including to The Farm.

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Figure 8 1904 Ordnance Survey, 1st edition 25” scale, detail of core of demesne.

Main Features of Note • Steps up to entrance of Hall from forecourt. • Gasometer next to Hall office yard. • Glasshouses and sheds for kitchen garden and flower garden altered. • Riverside walks gone, marked in outline by lines of trees. • Specimen trees accurately surveyed, each marked with a horizontal line at the bottom of the symbol. • King James Well has a retaining wall around the water feature. This has not been mapped before and it is unclear whether this is a recently added feature or one of some age.

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Figure 9 1932 Lease Map, Marks Surveyor, based on 1932 OS. (credit?)

Main Features of Note The 19 acre leased area was shaded red and yellow. It was leased to McDevitt.

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Figure 10 1932 Ordnance Survey, 6” scale.

Main Features of Note

• Little alteration since 1904 OS. • More small villas in the setting west of Culmore Road.

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Figure 11 1948-49 Ordnance Survey, 5th edition 6” scale.

Main Features of Note • Little alteration since 1904 OS. • The setting immediately to the south-west was being laid out for Talbot Park within land formerly belonging to The Farm.

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Figure 12 1949 Sale Map, Marks Surveyor, based on OS. (credit?)

Main Features of Note • Field names given. These are useful to identify field names in other historic documents. • The nearly 27 acre area was shaded green. It was leased to McDevitt. A further 7 acres had been added to the area leased in 1932, including part of the Grove, both farmyards and the Slip Garden, by then called Orchard Field. • The rest of the demesne was sold in parcels by Maturin Baird and the surviving areas later reassembled under City ownership from the 1970s.

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Figure 13 1962-63 Ordnance Survey, 25” scale.

Main Features of Note • Little alteration since 1904 OS. • The setting immediately to the south-west continuing to be developed for Talbot Park within land formerly belonging to The Farm. • Estate cottages north-east of entrance to back drive.

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Figure 14 1962-63 Ordnance Survey, 25” scale, detail of core of demesne.

Main Features of Note

• Kitchen garden by now an orchard.

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Figure 15 Current Topographical Survey.

See also Figure 28 for comparison with the Siege map, and pdf separate overlay file. Main Features of Note

• Little change to the surviving much reduced area since 1904. The main structures survive: the Hall, stable block and yard walls, and the kitchen garden walls (ABC). • Park to the south-west lost to construction of Madam’s Bank Road and enlargement of Culmore Road and new junction of the two. • Hospice has taken northern corner of park. • New drive from north joins the surviving section of the main drive. In the setting, Foyle Bridge to the south, off the map. • Front Avenue drive survives but is detached from demesne (not shown) and now known as Boomhall Lane.

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5 ANALYSIS OF HISTORIC DESIGN AND CONTEXT

5.1 KEY COMPONENTS OF THE DESIGN The design of the demesne is, as noted above, based on successive phases between c.1770s and c. 1850 which developed the layout in the style of a typical mid-late C18 landscape park and garden for a merchant’s villa. A villa demesne was smaller and less complex than a landed estate, usually counted in a few dozen acres up to 100 or 120 acres. It lacked extensive tenanted agricultural land surrounding and financially supporting the house in its ornamental landscape.

The second major campaign, the mid-C19 alterations, consolidated this style rather than adding contemporary features. The most important landscape features by the time the demesne was fully developed in the 1850s were the two drives, gateways and lodges, The Grove as an ornamental plantation sheltering the house from the west, the two riverside walks taking advantage of the slopes, with King James’s Well as a picturesque feature, the flower garden enclosed by a ha-ha, and the productive kitchen garden with Slip Garden to the north. The house was framed by lawns to the east and south and by the forecourt to the west. It was enclosed by shrubbery on the north, service side.

Typically the house was the focal feature of the landscape design and retained the original relationship with its demesne as it was never significantly enlarged or its exterior appearance altered. Nor was a formal garden added around it as might have been expected. This frequently occurred with other properties where the C18 house was framed by informal lawns which were in the C19 replaced by terraces and flower parterres directly accessible from the garden front of the house. Instead at Boom Hall a flower garden was added late-on at a distance to the house in C18 style, but unusually it was enclosed on the south and east sides by a ha-ha to facilitate the river views, and backed and sheltered to the north by the prestigious brick wall of the kitchen garden. 5.2 RIVER-SIDE SETTING AND COMPARABLE VILLAS The setting was used in many ways in the design, particularly embracing the broad river below and the mountains beyond. The riverside was a prized location for this dramatic setting and views; other wealthy merchants and professionals from Derry also took advantage of it to make a significant group of demesnes of high quality as country retreats from urban life.

This group is comparable to other similar clusters of riverside villa demesnes in Ireland. Atkinson (1833) compared the Foyle setting as ‘perhaps only exceeded in beauty by the picturesque of Wicklow, Killarney and Slane.’ The River Boyne north-west of Dublin from Navan to Slane was lined with demesnes. Similarly in Dublin along the River Liffey from the Phoenix Park west to Celbridge and along the south shore of the Shannon estuary west of Limerick. A group strung out along the high banks of the River Lee west of Cork into Cork Harbour. The River Blackwater also in Cork has country houses strung out along part of its course in a similar way. Parts of the Shannon and its lakes north of Limerick have clusters of demesnes as do other lakes in Ireland such as Lough Ennell.1

The location of the Foyle river-side villas echoes that of the C18 Thames-side villas at Richmond and

1 The author is grateful to Terence Reeves-Smyth for sharing his knowledge of other similar clusters of riverside villas in Ireland.

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Twickenham which were used by courtiers as country retreats from the royal court in London, and reached by water. These in turn were redolent of the Classical Roman villas built as retreats for wealthy Roman citizens, the virtues of which were extolled by Pliny who was widely read by educated men of taste and wealth in the C18. The most renowned of the C18 Thames villas included Richard Boyle, 3rd Earl of Burlington’s Chiswick House, and Marble Hill. Another group was built further upstream near the court at Windsor, including Cliveden and Harleyford. Many were designed as compact pleasure houses set in rolling lawns, designed to benefit from views of the river and hilly setting beyond as well as being prestigious features seen from passing boats. Sir Robert Taylor’s villa at Harleyford in particular has similarities to Boom Hall in the relationship with the river. It too has a prominent canted bay on a compact boxy house standing close to the river but it is on low-lying land rather than elevated to overlook the water. Like Boom Hall, Harleyford has never been extended with wings nor have the informal lawns been greatly altered and it retains the intended close relationship with the water and wider hilly rural setting.

Figure 16 Merchant Villas Closest to Boom Hall, Ordnance Survey 2nd edition surveyed 1848-52. Hampstead Hall (ringed) lay adjacent to the west of Culmore Road in a cluster with Bellmount (Belmont), Fairy Mount, Belle Vue. North of Thornhill were Ballynagard, Culmore and Kilderry demesnes. East of the river were Gransha Lodge (ringed), Enagh and Coolkeiragh demesnes. South of the City along the river were Prehen House, Government House, Milton Lodge and Glendarragh demesnes.

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Boom Hall was comparable in size and style with Brook Hall but a little less complex and less densely planted, and without a boathouse or quay by this point. The Farm and Brook Hall both had walled gardens on the slopes down at the riverside. 5.3 THE DERRY CONTEXT: THE RIVER FOYLE VILLA DEMESNES

5.3.1 Overview Boom Hall was by the mid-C19 one of the more extensive of the Foyle riverside villa demesnes owned by Derry notables. It was comparable in extent and quality with Brook Hall adjacent to the north, also part of the group north of the City, and with the still larger Prehen House demesne south of the City on the east river bank. They were mapped in detail by the OS and described in varying detail by Atkinson in his tour of Ireland in 1833 (pp.257-83).2

Appendix 4 gives further information on this context drawn particularly from Atkinson’s 1833 descriptions and the Griffith Valuation of 1858. A table of comparable villas is also given.

5.3.2 Atkinson’s Descriptions, 1833 Of all these demesnes, Atkinson (unaccountably) gave most space to The Farm description, adjacent to the south of Boom Hall, which was owned by kin of the Alexanders and linked to Boom Hall by a private drive. He noted demesnes at Ballynagard, Kilderry, Bellemount, Thorn Hill, Greenhaw (Gransha?), Coolkeiragh and their setting. He almost overlooked Boom Hall (misspelt as Broomhall). In passing he mentions that, ‘in addition to the beauties of the Foyle, The Farm, and other objects already described, the distinguished seats of Broomhall [sic], Brookhall, and Thornhill, enrich the succeeding prospect, upon one side; and a tract of country moderately elevated, and richly cultivated and improved, extends the whole way from the city of Derry to Ballynagard, upon the other.’3

Atkinson noted views of the ‘romantic mountain-rocks of Magilligan’ connected with ‘the calm and chastened beauties of the river view.’ As well as the distant mountains, he was also very taken with the nearby river setting, referring to ‘the splendid improvements [i.e. demesnes] on that section of the river which approximates with Derry; and which, in the scenery of Ireland, is perhaps only exceeded in beauty by the picturesque of Wicklow, Killarney and Slane.’ He made an exposition of the benefits of growing oak here.

5.3.3 Survival of the Demesnes Some of these demesnes have been partly or wholly lost, including one third of Boom Hall, and the whole of The Farm, Hampstead Hall, Gransha Lodge. Survivors include Belmount west of Culmore Road, and above the west bank of the river Boom Hall (two thirds), Brook Hall, the core of Thorn Hill and Ballynagard. Probably the best preserved is Brook Hall which is still owned by the Gilliland family. Ballynagard is well preserved.

2 Accessed at https://archive.org/details/irelandinninete00atkigoog/page/n276/mode/2up?q=broom 3 Perhaps the brevity of his descriptions of these three adjacent demesnes, which were as notable as The Farm, resulted from him being unable to gain admission to them.

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Site & location Original Notes (Red = Registered) Area Acres String W of Foyle running N along riverside The Farm 110 Gone. Demesne linked with Boom Hall by private drive. Detailed description by Atkinson 1833. See Figures 16 & 17. Boom Hall 134 2/3 survives (67 acres). Drive connected demesne with The Farm. Hall (Supplementary Site) canted bay to E. Demesne reduced to 27 ha. Brook Hall 142 Survives. House has canted bay to E. ‘Possibly the most delicately elegant house of the neighbourhood … well preserved landscape park … overlooking the Foyle … one of the best preserved and most intriguing demesnes in the county.’ Calley, 2013 Fine C20 arboretum. See Figures 16 & 17. Thorn Hill 33-50 Survives in part. N end developed. Hulking mass of a house for local (Supplementary Site) distiller Andrew Alexander Watt. The 3 houses known locally as Boom Hall, Brookhall and Alcohol. (Calley, 2013) See Figures 16 & 17. Ballynagard 100 Survives well. Canted bay to E. In 1858 71 acres; demesne extended to north. Kilderry House 300 Gone. Had canted bay to E in red brick. Elements of the landscape remain in gardens for scattered houses. Cluster West of Culmore Road Bellmount/Belmont 25 Survives in part. See Register description. See Figure 17. (Supplementary Site) Fairy View Gone. Belle Vue Gone. Hampstead Hall Gone. See Figures 16 & 17. Summer Hill Gone.

Troy Demesne gone though house survives. See Figures 16 & 17. East of Foyle Gransha Lodge Gone. See Figures 16 & 17. Enagh House 117 An excellent example of a landscape park in miniature (Register (Supplementary Site) description). See Figure 17. Coolkieragh House 60 Gone. Opposite Ballynagard. Prehen House, Victoria 200 Only core survives. Wider demesne developed and golf course; Road south of the city house converted to flats. See Calley, pp. 433-38. See Figure 17. Government House 25 Survives well, above west bank. Early C19 villa and park. (Supplementary Site) See Figure 17.

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Figure 17 Derry City Context, Ordnance Survey 5th edition surveyed 1948-49. Significant demesnes ringed.

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6 STRUCTURES

6.1 INTRODUCTION In this report the structures are appraised for their contribution to the designed landscape. The appraisal is based on inspection from a walk-over survey and information in recent surveys and historic documents. The appraisal of condition is indicative of general condition as related to the demesne landscape. 6.2 SUMMARY GAZETTEER This gazetteer sets out the main structures within the demesne and their relationship to the designed landscape. This presents the significant buildings and structures in the study area, regardless of ownership, and assesses landscape significance, general condition and notes major issues. Buildings that have gone are included where they contributed to the landscape design at its most fully developed, i.e. by c.1900. Key items are marked on Figure 1. The items are presented in order initially by Character Area of significance, and within each area by significance. Most of the landscape structures are illustrated in Appendix 6.

Significance to Historic Ornamental Landscape Design: A Very significant: Fundamental to the design concept or to historic interest of designed landscape.

B Significant: Essential parts or elements specific to the vocabulary of the design.

C Some significance: of historic interest; contributes to design complexity.

D Not historically significant to landscape design.

E Damages the historic character.

Condition is assessed from a brief external visual inspection and is intended only as a general guide to point to the need for further inspection. It does not assess safety aspects. Condition is categorised as follows: 1 Good: no repair required; continue maintenance. 2 Fair: Structurally sound/complete, but some repair required. 3 Poor: Dilapidated and/or structurally unsound and needing major restoration. 4 Derelict: A ruin or badly damaged/incomplete. 5 Lost.

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Item Origin, brief description, landscape role Landscape Significance/ Notes/Issues Condition Structures Area 1 House, Pleasure Grounds 1. Hall (listed) Mid-1770s villa with minor C19 alterations, architect A/4 Roofless ruin since the 1970s, very badly decayed. unclear. Stands at the top of the riverside slope, set This is the most important building surviving in the far back from the Culmore Road. demesne, both architecturally and for the Role: family country house and focus of the contribution made by its external appearance in the ornamental demesne design. Strong visual landscape design in similar form since the 1770s. It relationship with the slopes and river setting. is not Listed but Listing should be considered. See main Conservation Management Plan for detail of structure. 2. Military Huts (sites) 1940s military buildings as part of Admiralty E (ornamental The structures have gone but elements of the occupation, sited close to south and east of Hall. design) & footings may survive. While they damaged the Quonset type: pre-fabricated curved roof/walls, C (military role) ornamental demesne they are of interest for their corrugated metal. /5 military role as part of the WWII use of the Role: functional military structures. As offices or demesne. Of archaeological interest. accommodation? Area 2 East Slopes 3. Riverside Wall late C18 or early C19 with the development of the B/4 This was a significant landscape feature as seen in (photo Appendix 6) demesne for the Hall. C. 1.5m high, coursed schist in early C20 photographs. It has lost its purpose. similar style to the garden walls and ha-ha. Originally Whilst it could never be rebuilt the surviving probably c.800m between The Farm and Brook Hall fragments should be consolidated if possible as they demesnes. Fragments survive. represent a key part of the historic fabric and the Role: Boundary against trespassers from river. only surviving boundary walls. 4. King James’s Well Origin: believed to be part of 1689 Siege landscape A/4 The origin and intended appearance is unclear. It is (photos Appendix 6) but the form of that period is unclear. derelict but the water source remains. Original later ornamental form as a demesne feature It could be consolidated as a feature. One of few unclear, probably late C18/early C19, stone walls built ornamental features that formed part of the framing existing spring. 175m NE of Hall. demesne. It is of increased significance being a Role: Ornamental water feature of the demesne feature apparently part of the 1689 military Siege. pleasure grounds, redolent of Jacobite Siege of Derry.

39 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 5. ‘Boom Stone’ Origin: may be part of 1689 Siege landscape as part ?B/3 Origin and original position unclear as part of Siege (photo Appendix 6) of anchor for boom, but the form of that period is landscape and ditto for later demesne landscape. unclear and it has been relocated. Lies south of Well. Seems to have been relocated. Role: putative part of boom anchor structure, Becoming covered in vegetation and vulnerable to incorporated into later demesne. Role in demesne damage. unclear but redolent of Jacobite Siege of Derry. 6. Bridge(s) over stream Not seen. Origin, appearance and condition unclear. C/? It has been suggested that it/they originated with Believed to be 1 or 2 small masonry bridges over the the 1689 siege but this is unlikely. More probable is stream in the little ravine, c.300m NE of Hall. origin as ornamental features on the route down Role: Carrying the (now lost) path from the Hall over the slopes to the river. They require inspection to the Picturesque stream. clarify form, role, significance and condition. Area 3 Kitchen Garden, Yards 7. Stable Block 1770s square stable court and ranges in local schist C/4 Roofless ruin and very vulnerable to collapse. It was Listed with sandstone ashlar dressings, architect unclear. part of the 1770s ensemble and prestigious (photo Appendix 6) Stands 80m NW of Hall. Although ornamented it was architecturally. The ensemble of contiguous yard not prominent in the landscape design. walls and stable frontage lining the drive was a Role: demesne stables and coach house. Part of major prestigious ornamental feature in the prestigious ensemble with farmyards’ walls lining approach to the Hall. approach along main drive to Hall. See main Conservation Management Plan for detail of structure. 8. Kitchen Garden walls Probably 1770s-80s kitchen garden 1.6 acre A/3-5 The walls largely survive although two sections of (photos Appendix 6) enclosure 100m N of Hall, one of the most important the east half were lost when a sewage pipe was structures of the demesne ensemble. Roughly constructed. They could be rebuilt to complete the rectangular, 370m boundary. 3m high schist walls to ensemble. Surviving sections are generally in poor N, W & E, c. 210m total length, brick internal facing; condition and in places have had access holes S wall and SE curved corner wall c.120m long, crudely inserted. The doors to the vehicle entrance entirely brick with rubble core. Stable block forms may be original. Widespread vegetation particularly c.30m long SW corner. Vehicle entrance in S wall ivy will destabilize the structure and damage the adjacent to stables; pedestrian doorway in N wall. masonry. Coping has gone. Material unclear. Role: Enclosure for productive garden, a prestigious, See main Conservation Management Plan for costly combination of brick and stone to improve the further information on the structure. growing conditions by sheltering from wind and increasing temperature. In mid-C19 used as rear wall to shelter the flower garden. 9. Ha-ha wall Mid-C19 retaining wall, c.1.5m high encircling the A/ Considerable sections survive to the NE in fair

40 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 (photos Appendix 6) outer side of the flower garden against the lawns of 3-5 condition. Elsewhere the stone has gone but the the slopes. Coursed schist similar to other walls in landform survives as a ditch. This was of high demesne. Built when flower garden laid out. significance as an ornamental feature. Role: Kept out livestock but allowed views S & E over the river from the only flower garden. 10. Kitchen garden structures Late C18-C19 lean-to glasshouses and sheds on S C/4-5 Very little known about original structures other (photos Appendix 6) sides of N & S walls. Form and origin unclear, but than shown on mapping. Not an extensive shown on C19 OS. Parts of two against the S wall collection of structures in C19. survive. Footings of others indicated on OS may Remains of present structures appear to be C20 as survive. Role: Service buildings and productive do not match the C19 OS footprint and are derelict. glasshouses for kitchen garden and flower garden. 11. Farmyard walls and sheds Farm enclosure walls adjacent to stable block, 120m B/3-5 Very dilapidated and sections lost. Shed against rear next to Stable Block NW of Hall & 12m long. Coursed schist. Coping gone. wall gone. (photos Appendix 6) Remains of stone shed on S wall. Formerly a range of Important role in the landscape for the external sheds along the NE wall shared with the kitchen walls both to W against the drive and kitchen garden. One of 2 farm yards with the bungalow yard garden to E. The ensemble of contiguous yard walls (now garden) adjacent. Role: service yard and and stable frontage lining the drive was a major buildings for demesne farm. Part of prestigious prestigious ornamental feature in the approach to ensemble with stable block and adjacent yard walls the Hall. lining approach along main drive to Hall. Forms part Not in Council ownership. of the kitchen garden enclosure. 12. Bungalow garden walls Formerly farmyard enclosure, now enclosing garden, B/2 (E & S walls Two of 4 sides rebuilt in lower modern form (photos Appendix 6) 160m NW of Hall. E & S walls survive, tall, schist, against kitchen exposing the modern bungalow prominently in the similar to others, 80m long. N & W walls, 70m long, garden) main approach to the Hall. Damages the views rebuilt as low concrete walls. Formerly a range of considerably. Shed against rear wall gone. sheds along E wall shared with Slip Garden. Role: E/1 (N & W walls Not in Council ownership. service yard and buildings for demesne farm. Part of against park & drive) Important role in the landscape for the external prestigious ensemble with stable block and adjacent walls both to N & W seen from the drive and yard walls, lining approach along main drive to Hall. kitchen garden to E. The ensemble of contiguous Forms part of the kitchen Slip Garden enclosure. yard walls and stable frontage lining the drive was a major prestigious ornamental feature in the approach to the Hall. 13. Bungalow Modern dwelling on site of former small building, E/1 Prominent in the main approach to the Hall. (photos Appendix 6) possibly cottage, set in outer one of the 2 farm yards Damages the views considerably. Made worse by 180m NW of Hall. Prominent in approach along main lower height and modern style of rebuilt yard walls

41 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 drive. Role: No historic function; damages historic to N & W. Screen from the drive & park. character and fabric. Not in Council ownership. Area 4 Park 14. Gateway, main drive Modern gateway 550m NNE of Hall. Replaced on E/1 Original entrance to main drive gone, form unclear, new site former gateway on Culmore Road lost when impractical to recreate or use. This gateway while road enlarged. modern is relatively harmless. Role: Main entrance to demesne giving access to new section of main drive linking to C18 drive to Hall. Also access to Hospice drive. 15. Sheds by drive Recent animal sheds in poor condition. Not part of E/4 Historically inappropriate. Sited next to main drive, historic fabric. damages historic character and fabric. Role: agricultural shelters Recommendation that these are removed. 16. Boundary wall Likely a stone roadside wall to NW along Culmore B/5 Removed when the road system was created. Road. Form unclear. Impractical to recreate. Role: Demesne boundary wall, kept out trespassers, part of line of demesne walls along the road. Area 5 Front Avenue in Boomhall Lane 17. Gateway and walls Gateway, ashlar piers, 2.5m high, 670m W of Hall at A/3 In divided ownership. Only the Piers appear are in Listed entrance to Front Avenue, set back off Culmore Council ownership, the flanking walls and outer (photos Appendix 6) Road. c.1830-50. Flanked by 1.5m high coursed piers owned by respective flanking house owners. schist walls curving out to roadside at lower outer All subject to major ivy infestation and resultant ashlar piers. destabilisation and damage to masonry. Role: Main entrance to demesne giving access to new section of main drive linking to old drive to Hall. 18. Lodge South of gateway. Mid-C19 with gateway and drive. E/1 (photos Appendix 6) Rebuilt late C20 in modern style. Not Council ownership.

42 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 6.3 CONTRIBUTION OF STRUCTURES TO LANDSCAPE DESIGN

6.3.1 Overview The structures reflect the key character of a villa demesne at its most fully established by 1862 and as an ensemble by that point survive very largely intact.

Stylistically the historic demesne structures fall into a number of characters from the two main periods: a) The country villa (1770s), the most highly ornamented building and the focus of the demesne layout. b) Service structures: stable block, farmyard walls and sheds (1770s). The yard walls were unornamented but framed one side of the original drive for 80m, screening the working yards, heralding the ornamental façade of the stable block. This substantial and prestigious structure in turn heralded the approach to the Hall. The yard buildings were not intended to be seen. c) Productive garden walls (1770s). These walls were of considerable prestige in their extent and construction and represented the owner’s wealth and ability to lavish funds on horticultural structures. The south wall in particular was a showpiece as it was entirely faced in brick, both inside and out. d) Productive garden sheds and glasshouses (late C18/mid-C19), relatively modest structures, little is known about their form and style. e) Ornamental garden structures: King James’s Well, ‘Boom Stone’, flower garden ha-ha, stream bridges (late C18-mid-C19). Relatively modest in size these formed varied and localised incidents related to the pleasure grounds and slopes and river setting beyond. The Well and Stone evoked the integral connection with the victory of King William’s forces in the 1689 Siege. f) Drive gateways and lodges (late C18 & mid-C19), heralded the two main entrances to the demesne. Only the Front Avenue drive gateway survives (in Culmore Road at entrance to Boomhall Lane), of high quality, Listed, in classical style and of stone, with wing walls, as a prestigious herald of the park and Hall. The lodge has gone. It formed the second of the group of lodges and gateways for the string of villa demesnes along this stretch of the river in the route out of Derry along Culmore Road. g) Boundary wall to the River Foyle (probably late C18), built in similar style to other demesne walls of local schist, it was a major riverside feature framing views of the slopes and Hall above. Now fragmentary and vulnerable to collapse.

6.3.2 Surviving Structures Surviving historic structures are in poor condition or derelict and deteriorating quickly. The rate of deterioration seems to be accelerating.

6.3.3 Lost and Altered Structures Losses from the ensemble at its zenith in the mid-C19 include: • Main drive gateway and lodge (irreversible) • Culmore Road demesne wall (irreversible) • River Foyle boundary wall, fragments survive • Front Avenue lodge (irreversible) and gates in Boomhall Lane • Sheds and cottage in farm yards • Glasshouses and sheds in kitchen garden and flower garden • Stretches of ha-ha wall.

43 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 6.3.4 Modern Structures Modern structures are few and localised in their effect on the historic character and views. • The main modern structure in the demesne is the bungalow by the drive and the rebuilt walls around the former yard, now garden. This damages views in the main approach to the Hall. • The demesne/ hospice gateway off Culmore Road for the main drive. • Front Avenue lodge in Boomhall Lane has been replaced with a larger late C20 structure. 6.4 ISSUES 1. Many aspects of the design, construction and form of the structures are poorly recorded and understood. 2. All structures are in poor condition, damaged or deteriorating. 3. Several structures have gone, as listed above. Their loss has damaged the intended layout and historic character. 4. There is no audit of the ensemble, the significances and condition. 5. Few structures have been introduced and their effect is localised, ensuring that apart from losses the built character has not changed significantly since the C19. This is a remarkable situation given the proximity to the city. 6. Some structures may be of sufficient architectural or historic significance to be Listed, including the garden walls, and the Hall. 7. Wildlife population and habitats relating to the structures will be significant but information has not yet been synthesized. There is no detailed site-wide understanding of the structures as a wildlife habitat, particularly to understand obligations in respect of legally protected species. This is necessary for maintenance and repair of these items where such species are present. 8. Boundary treatments have not been systematically audited and understood to establish the types of materials and styles that are historically appropriate for various types of positions. 6.5 POLICY • S1. Overall: Understand, retain and repair where necessary the significance and character of the built environment as it relates to the ornamental landscape design established by the early C20. Prevent further decline and loss of significant fabric. • S2. Landscape Buildings & Structures: Maintain the built historic environment secure from theft, environmental damage and decline, and ensure that legal obligations are met regarding health and safety, and historic environment designation, e.g. safeguarding listed buildings and legally protected species. • S3. Landscape Buildings & Structures: Repair and maintain to a high standard, or reinstate with appropriate structures where deemed necessary, the landscape structures as the focal points of the landscape as developed by the early C20 and ensure that their immediate landscape settings are historically appropriate. Prioritise items of highest significance that are deteriorating; ensure that repaired structures are sustainable in the long term. • S4. Landscape Buildings & Structures: Additions should not damage the historic environment significance; they should be sensitive and sympathetic to the historic character and context in position, style and materials, and be fully justified and mitigated, and screened fully from the historic landscape. • S5. Boundary Treatments: Use historically appropriate styles and positions as far as possible, guided by existing examples surviving on site or used in nearby comparable demesnes, together with visual sources of the late C19/early C20.

44 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 6.6 RECOMMENDATIONS

See Section 2.3 for definitions of the Priorities and Timescales.

Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Implement a regular inspection and maintenance programme for structures High Short including for their immediate setting. 2. In addition to the studies conducted as part of the Conservation High Short Management Plan by ACA, commission (where applicable) further detailed studies of the fabric and historic significance of all historic structures (both standing and ruined), including archaeological character and wildlife habitats, as necessary to inform significant changes and site work. 3. Undertake thorough condition surveys for all historic structures, and based High Short on these draw up long term conservation, security and maintenance policies and implement associated programmes of repair and maintenance. 4. Consolidate landscape structures which are deteriorating in situ particularly High Short garden and yard walls. 5. Remove where possible or mitigate the physical and visual damage and High Long appearance of structures introduced in the C20/C21, e.g. the bungalow. 6. As the need arises, ensure that all buildings are adequately understood in High Medium respect of their use as wildlife habitats with particular respect to legally protected species. Adapt long term maintenance and repair schedules to reflect the obligations arising from the findings and to minimise damage to the historic environment. 7. Audit historic boundary treatments to understand the variety, origin, Low Long significance of style and position, and survival of different forms to identify the extent of loss and historically inappropriate styles/materials. Draw up a reinstatement programme. 8. Implement the reinstatement programme for historic boundary treatments Medium Ongoing as replacements become necessary.

45 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 7 HISTORIC VIEWS

7.1 PHASES The significant surviving and understood views generally fall into a number of historical phases cumulatively developed, as follows: 1. C17 Military: These are evident from the 1689 Siege maps, and relate mainly to the Jacobite surveillance of the river from the military features, in particular the approaches to the boom. The features forming the viewpoints have gone but the sites remain and views are still identifiable as the areas were incorporated within the later demesne design. 2. Late C18, 1st phase of ornamental demesne: Viewpoints relate to the main 1770s buildings and the features of the layout associated with them by 1830s as evident from the OS. 3. Mid-C19, 2nd phase of ornamental demesne: Viewpoints relate to key features established c.1830-1850s particularly the Front Avenue drive. 7.2 IMAGES OF KEY HISTORIC VIEWS Key historic views are often reflected in contemporary images (Figures 18, 20-23). Images of Boom Hall are few and the viewpoints mainly show the fine east front of the Hall, from both nearby and the far side of the river. The wider landscape is not well visually recorded. An exceptional view is the 1819 pencil sketch from a high point in Brook Hall towards the city which illustrates a view similar to that from The Farm villa window as described by Atkinson in 1833, although two demesnes further away.4 The upper floors and roof of Boomhall rise out of maturing trees in the middle ground with Brook Hall in the foreground. Despite Atkinson’s praise for the view from the attic of The Farm, Boom Hall, set on the edge of an outcrop, had a superior direct view of the Cathedral city on the island hill. Directly across the river to the east was the sylvan setting of Gransha sloping down to the river’s edge. To the north (but not seen in this illustration) was a direct view from the upper floors to Lough Foyle and Benevenagh Mountain. This helps to appreciate how the view from Boom Hall was panoramic whilst that from The Farm was of one vista (southwards) only. 7.3 SUMMARY OF SIGNIFICANT HISTORIC VIEWS The following summary defines the main views, their origins and provides a brief assessment of their condition. These are mapped on Figure 19.

Significance is categorized as follows: A Most significant: Fundamental to the design concept or to historic interest. B Highly Significant: Essential to the design of the estate. C Some significance: of historic interest; contributes to design complexity.

Condition is categorised as follows: 1. Good. 2. Fair: Complete, but some repair, clearance or replanting required. 3. Poor: Dilapidated/some damage and/ or needing major replanting/restoration/ clearance. 4. Derelict: Badly damaged/incomplete/obscured but recoverable. 5. Lost, irrecoverable.

4 The sketch dated 02 November 1819 is believed to be in Trinity College Library, Dublin but the catalogue reference is unclear. Pers. comm. B. O’Donnell. 46 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020

Number View point Subject of view and origin Significance/ Comments condition 1. 1a. Mansion: Internal: B/3 Still a clear view but the dilapidated west front/ forecourt W to evergreen planting around W side of forecourt, filtering glimpses of condition of forecourt and shrubbery/trees (Area 1) Grove beyond. around it damages it. 1b. Mansion: Internal & external: A/3-4 Views and character obscured by scrub east front/ east lawn NE, E and SE over lawn and slopes, filtered by ornamental trees, beyond around Hall. Wider views of setting still well and path demesne over river to demesnes on opposite bank (Gransha & Enagh) and preserved, joined by Foyle Bridge glimpsed (Area 1) mountains beyond. through the trees. The canted bay designed to offer dramatic panoramic views south to the City, east to Gransha and north-east to Lough Foyle. 1c. Mansion: Internal: S between pleasure ground trees over lawns to slopes beyond. B/ Short views screened by scrub around Hall. south front/garden 3-5 Long views lost to Madam’s Bank Road path (Area 1) embankment, but recent planting screens it. 2. The Grove Internal: To stables and yard walls to N, and park to NW. C/2-3 Views clear but damaged by condition of (Area 1) paddock and buildings. 3. East Slopes inc. lost Internal & External: A/2-4 Most of the former SE walk has gone with paths & King James’ NE, E and SE over lawn and slopes, filtered by ornamental trees, beyond the building of Madam’s Bank Rd. Site of E Well (Area 2) demesne over river to demesnes on opposite bank (Gransha & Enagh) and lawn, NE slopes and site of treed walk mountains beyond. Paths to riverside had gone by 1904 but were probably survive. Views and character screened by still evident in outline and trees remained to frame the line of the walks to scrub in places. View beyond still well NE & SE. preserved, now including Foyle Bridge glimpsed through the trees. 4. Kitchen Garden Internal: Views from main entrance next to stable block and from B/4 Views clear but the layout has gone so the (Area 3) perimeter path and cross paths: across the enclosure, contained by the historic productive character is lost and the walls. viewpoints on the paths. Main entrance no longer in use. 5. Flower Garden Internal & External: A/2-4 Views screened by scrub in places and (Area 3) From garden over ha-ha uninterrupted to E and SE over lawn and slopes, damaged by absence of ornamental filtered by ornamental trees, beyond demesne over river to demesnes on horticultural character. View beyond well opposite bank (Gransha & Enagh) and mountains beyond. preserved, joined by Foyle Bridge glimpsed Important as the only ornamental horticultural setting for external views. through the trees. 6. Main drive, new Internal & External: A/1-2 This is not a key historic view but is a Culmore Rd gateway From the highest point of the demesne in the north corner in a broad splendid introduction to the demesne and

47 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 Number View point Subject of view and origin Significance/ Comments condition & NW half of drive sweep SE & S over the park to the river and demesnes on opposite bank replaces the lost views from the two drives. (Area 4) (Gransha & Enagh) and mountains beyond. Continuing down the slope to Views of park remain open and well join the historic line (view point 7). preserved. Damage from poor condition of park, modern bungalow & new roads with structures and lighting. View beyond demesne well preserved, joined by Foyle Bridge glimpsed through the trees. 7. Main drive, historic Internal: at W end: N & S over open park and Grove; at E end: to the stable A/1-2+INT View of park and Grove remains open and SE half (Area 4) block and then across the forecourt to the Hall; the earliest approach to the well preserved. Damage from poor demesne which retains most of the key features. condition of park, modern bungalow & new roads with structures and lighting. 8. 8a. Front Avenue: Internal & external: External has panoramic view of Culmore Road; gateway A/3 Survives, but road much altered, & gateway Culmore Rd gateway features in views from the road as one of the villa demesne gateways. smothered in ivy. Important as the main (Area 5) Internal along Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane with glimpses of park A/ entrance built in the mid-C19 with the new between trees. 2/5 drive superseding the present main drive which was contemporary with the Hall. 8b. Front Avenue Internal: along Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane with glimpses of park A/ Survives but park setting irreversibly lost. (Area 5) between trees. 2/5 Only surviving views along length of drive framed by good survival of late C19/early C20 sycamores. 9. 9a. Setting External from the river, Foyle Bridge and east bank of river: Views of the A/1-5 In places damaged by C20/C21 roads and Hall and 530m long grassed and treed slopes framing it, with wooded other development. setting behind in Grove & Park, to distant mountains as seen in early C20 view below. 9b. Setting C20/C21 roads and other development. INT/1

48 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020

Figure 18 Early C20 view of Boom Hall from the Gransha estate, north-west over the river to distant mountains. The avenues on the Slopes flank the Hall. NMNI WAG2412

49 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 Figure 19 Key Historic Views.

Key to Views: Black lines = demesne viewpoints 6 Red lines = setting viewpoints

6 Thick arrow lines = key views Elevated views from new drive over park to Dotted lines = irreversibly lost views River Foyle/east bank and distant mountains

6

9 7

7

3

4

5 3 9 7 3

8 2 Views between setting: River Foyle/east bank; 1 3 Front Avenue, views and the demesne: the over park now obscured mansion and east by residential slopes. These survive well development 3

South front of Hall and 9 canted bay on east front: views over park towards the City. Now obscured by Madam’s Bank Road & residential development.

9 9 50 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020

7.4 ANALYSIS OF VIEWS

7.4.1 Topography and Planting The natural topography is key to the historic views in combination with the planting. The most important historic topographical feature is the slope leading up from the river to the plateau on which the Hall is sited. A topographical feature which has recently increased in significance is the rising land in the north corner, leading up to the modern gateway of Culmore Road. The recent gateway and drive benefit from this elevation in introducing visitors to the demesne in a most dramatic way overlooking the whole demesne, and beyond the river and countryside beyond in a great sweep. The topography to the south and west has been greatly altered with the creation of Madam’s Bank Road and the realignment and enlargement of Culmore Road, and the new junction. This has terminated such views but with appropriate planting the impact of the landform and roads can be minimised.

Variety in views was achieved by use of planting to frame and screen views and features. Invasive self-sown and overgrown vegetation has blurred some of these views, and some significant trees have been lost but the views could be reinstated with the removal of the self-sown and overgrown vegetation and the replacement of trees in positions as indicated on the 1904 OS.

7.4.2 Views from the Hall The Hall is the pivot of and enjoyed the most important demesne views connected with the designed landscape and the hilly estate and wider river setting as part of the late C18 design concept. The Hall is dramatically elevated above the river at the top of the bank leading up to it, set within the parkland that rises distantly to the rear (north-west). Views would have become steadily more impressive as the visitor rose from the surrounding lawns and forecourt level to the top floor of the Hall from where the most extensive views would open up. The most impressive of these views were enjoyed from windows on the east front. The canted bay facilitated panoramic views of the river from south to north and was a device used in other demesne villas. It is just possible that a view of the City was obtained from the upper floors of the canted bay on the east front and the windows on the south front. Initially the tree cover would have been much less and the views would have been particularly spectacular. With the maturing of the trees into the C20, views were filtered, although views east over the river and west over the forecourt were maintained. The view west over the forecourt was terminated by the evergreen trees and shrubbery at the west edge in front of the Grove ornamental woodland, so that the park was not seen.

Many of these views survive or are only obscured by vegetation and are not lost irreversibly. The main exception is southerly views over the park which are now terminated by Madam’s Bank Road and the park beyond gone.

7.4.3 Views of the Hall Conversely, the Hall has always been the most important building in views within and of the demesne since it was built in the 1770s. Most importantly within the demesne the east elevation rises dramatically in nearby views from the former lawns below it and the slopes beyond. Beyond this it rises still more dramatically in distant views from the river and the far bankside demesnes.

51 BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020

The other key views of the Hall are short ones of the entrance front and the west elevation from the remains of the two drives and across the forecourt. From at least the 1830s the forecourt was enclosed by trees and shrubbery. The south front was also glimpsed obliquely. The north, service front was screened by planting.

These views survive or are only obscured by vegetation and are not lost irreversibly.

7.4.4 Garden & Pleasure Ground Features Key views relating to garden features included the following: 1. East lawn: internal views of the mansion and external views east over the river. 2. East slopes: internal views of the mansion and external views east over the river. 3. Flower garden: external views SE over ha-ha and slopes to river and beyond. 4. King James’s Well: external views over river and beyond. 5. The ‘Boom Stone’ in its original position in the demesne design probably enjoyed views of the river, but this situation is unclear as it seems to have been moved. 6. Walled garden: internal views including from the main entrance by the stables. These views survive or are only obscured by vegetation and are not lost irreversibly.

7.4.5 Park Views Since the late-C18 views within the park were mainly related to the routes along the drives. The original main drive (now returned to its role as the main drive) enjoyed views over the park as it headed for the ensemble of the stone-walled yards and the stable block before reaching the Hall. Views from the Front Avenue (1830-50) which superseded it in importance as the main approach from Derry were more sophisticated. They were heralded by the impressive stone gateway and lodge prominent on the Culmore Road. This led to a sequence of views over the park, then of the Grove and perhaps between the trees along the south riverside path over the river, and finally of the forecourt and west front of the Hall. While the Front Avenue drive largely survives in Boomhall Lane, and the gateway on Culmore Road, the lodge and the park setting have gone along with all demesne views.

Views from the main drive survive largely intact in the east half, although truncated to the south by Madam’s Bank Road, but the west end of the drive has gone. Fortuitously the replacement section of drive from Culmore Road has spectacular and wide-ranging elevated views over the park to the river and beyond to distant fields and still more distant mountains. These are important to replace the lost drive views and are still more impressive. 7.5 SIGNIFICANCE See the table above for detailed significances of individual views. • The most important designed views focus on the Hall as the principal building. The west and east elevations are most significant in this respect. The south elevation is of lesser significance ornamentally but was visible from the south gardens. The north front should be largely screened because it was a service front with a yard below it. • The most important garden and pleasure ground viewpoints relate to views east over the river and beyond from the former lawns below the Hall (Area 1), the slopes (Area 2) and the

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flower garden (Area 3). • Less significant views relate to the walled garden (Area 3). These are internal. • The most important historic views of and from the park relate principally to the Main Drive (Area 4). They are intended to convey a parkland idyll largely excluding the wider world except for the distant river and countryside beyond. • Extensive modern views east from the recent stretch of the main drive off Culmore Road over the demesne and beyond are in the spirit of the demesne design and should be embraced and enjoyed. • The flower garden ha-ha and sloping land help to minimise the visual effect of internal boundaries. • Views of the wider rural setting to the east are of high significance: the river and nearby demesnes, the surrounding mosaic of agricultural land, the distant rim of dramatic mountains; the oblique view along the line of the boom across the river to the east bank. They survive, with localised intrusions. As part of this the late C20 Foyle Bridge is a strong feature in some views and its elegant and soaring outline should be embraced and enjoyed. • Recent road developments and landform to the south (Madam’s Bank Road) and west (Culmore Road) damage the demesne views and should be screened. Similarly the Hospice building damages views and views should be filtered by parkland planting. 7.6 GENERAL ISSUES & CONDITION See the table above for specifics of condition and damage to individual views. 1. Many of the most important historic views, particularly those east over the river, survive; those which are obscured could be reinstated by removal of encroaching vegetation. 2. Although the views are of high significance to the design, given the deteriorating condition of other more vulnerable aspects such as structures and the resources required to prevent significant loss, reinstatement of the views in this case must be seen as a low priority. 3. Significant damage to the views is caused by the loss of demesne trees and inappropriate vegetation which has grown up to obscure view lines particularly around the Hall. 4. Further damage is caused most prominently by the landform and structures of new roads to the south and west and by the hospice and associated planting in the north of the demesne. 5. Internally the most damage is caused to views from the main drive by the modern bungalow and garden walls but these could be screened. 6. Dead wood and dead specimens damage the historic views. An accumulation of dead wood and dead trees was never allowed in demesnes. 7. Views relating to two modern features, i.e. from the new stretch of drive off Culmore Road over the demesne, and to the Foyle Bridge, could be considered to enhance the demesne. 8. There is visual intrusion from later change/development in the setting on the opposite bank of the river, and this character is vulnerable to damaging change, particularly from incremental changes at smaller scale, or larger scale and tall structures in inappropriate materials and style. 7.7 POLICIES • V1: Present key views clear and to a high standard, without damage from inappropriate planting and features. • V2: Reinstate significant views throughout the designed landscape as established by the mid-C19 so that the visual links between various areas and features are clear.

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• V3: Mitigate the intrusion of damaging C20/C21 features by planting screens of historically appropriate species of trees complementing those surviving in the demesne. • V4. Embrace and enhance beneficial views particularly a) from the new stretch of the main drive off Culmore Road and b) of the Foyle Bridge.

7.8 RECOMMENDATIONS

See Section 2.3 for definitions of the Priorities and Timescales.

Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Monitor planning applications for areas of the demesne High Ongoing beyond council ownership which affect key views and the historic significance and character identified above. Resist or advise on measures to mitigate the effects. Use justifications in this plan to inform responses to inappropriate changes. 2. Restore key views via removal of encroaching vegetation and Low Long replanting of the historic layout of trees and shrubs. Prioritise views relating to the Hall, flower garden and east slopes. 3. Remove dead fallen wood and standing specimens from key Low Long historic views, particularly environs of the Hall, the pleasure grounds and slopes, flower garden and main drive. If necessary for habitat purposes relocate dead wood to areas which are not visible from these features. 4. Implement a programme to remove, or if this is not possible, Low Long mitigate the appearance of, C20/C21 intrusions into key historic views. Prioritise the effect of roads and the bungalow within the demesne. Mitigate via planting using historically appropriate species. 5. Devise and implement a schedule to inspect and maintain key Low Ongoing views regularly. Prioritise views relating to the Hall, flower garden and east slopes.

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8 HISTORIC SETTING

8.1.1 Introduction The setting of a heritage asset (in this case the landscape of Boom Hall) is more than simply ‘views’. The surroundings play a more complex and key role in contributing to the significance of the heritage asset, rather than the significance of the setting itself. This is the focus of this section. Setting should not be regarded as a rigorously-defined spatial area which has to be protected from change. Indeed change within a ‘setting’ can enhance or contribute to significance.

This section provides an overview to indicate key aspects of the setting and their vulnerability. It is not a full study which would identify in detail the significance and contribution of the various aspects and their vulnerability to damaging change.

8.1.2 Definition The setting of a heritage asset is the surroundings in which a heritage asset is experienced. Its extent is not fixed and may change as the asset and its surroundings evolve. Elements of a setting may make a positive or negative contribution to the significance of an asset, may affect the ability to appreciate that significance or may be neutral.

Setting is more than simply ‘views’. It also includes experiences built on a combination of elements such as sound, smell and light, and also the experience of ‘arrival’. While setting may relate to a heritage asset it may also apply to other properties, whether a heritage asset or not, where the surroundings can contribute to the understanding of their significance. The definition of a setting may be summarised as: The surroundings that add to the significance and experience of a defined asset. 8.2 KEY HISTORIC ASPECTS AND SIGNIFICANCE OF THE HISTORIC SETTING The combination of the complex pattern of the historic setting and its features specific to Boom Hall as established at the zenith of the villa demesne in the early C20 makes a major positive contribution to the significance. These are based on not only the setting relevant to the ornamental villa demesne which is most evident today, but also the underlying C17 military landscape and its cultural resonance.

The immediate setting is of the utmost significance particularly the River Foyle and the surviving historic riverside demesnes. This comprises a mosaic of historic features, the most significant types of which have the greatest immediate effect on the historic significance of Boom Hall largely because of their physical proximity and/or visual links. This includes:

• Brook Hall for the very strong historical design and close geographical links. • The group of other nearby historic designed landscapes including Belmont to the west, Thorn Hill and Ballynagard to the north beyond Brook Hall, and the remains of Gransha and Enagh east of the river. • Derry. The City is a key element of the historic setting for Boom Hall. Of particular significance are the river-related aspects and the visual and social connections. • River environment of the Foyle along this reach.

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• River transport and recreation and views of the Hall and demesne. • Major road approaches along Culmore Road including the other demesne gateways, lodges and roadside belts and walls. • Tranquility, Noise & Remoteness • Biodiversity, for the continued historic contribution and connectivity to the demesnes to the north, to the river and via the river to demesnes to the east. • Geology, Topography and Landscape Character of the Foyle valley and surviving hinterland

Each type requires an assessment of the significance and level of contribution to the significance of boom Hall, the condition and damage, and likely threats to it from change.

8.3 GENERAL CONDITION OF THE SETTING The setting as established at the zenith of the villa demesne in the early C20 survives well in part: to the east, the River Foyle and estates beyond, and to the north the string of demesnes that survives largely intact for several miles. This is compounded and largely protected by the topographical riverside setting. This is a major guardian of the surviving elements of the remnants of tranquility and sense of remoteness which are of high significance to the historic character of Boom Hall and its landscape and surprisingly are still evident to a great degree. They also play a role in the approaches and sense of arrival.

The effect of the main damaging change is considerable in particular areas. This lies to the west and south with the major roads built along these boundaries, and the housing estates beyond overlying the former Boom Hall demesne and The Farm beyond, and to the north-west the hospice in former parkland. By contrast the historic setting largely survives well to the north and east: the string of demesnes and river. While the Foyle Bridge has changed the river setting it forms an elegant feature which arguably enhances the setting. 8.4 SENSITIVITY OF SETTING TO CHANGE AND EFFECT ON THE HERITAGE ASSETS

8.4.1 Types of Negative Effects The sensitivity or vulnerability of the setting to change and the consequent effects on Boom Hall are dependent on the nature of the change. A range of potentially damaging effects on the setting have been initially identified below, but more detail is required to understand the full significance and potential for damage. In general the greater distance of the change from Boom Hall the less damaging impact it is likely to have, but this is inverse in proportion to the scale of the change.

8.4.2 Levels of Impact of Change High impact – Large-scale or visually intrusive developments, such as housing developments, warehousing, tall structures such as tower blocks, telephone masts; numerous small scale or few large scale changes in the nearby environment such as wind turbines and industrial structures; alterations that damage extensive significant aspects of built, landscape and archaeological assets.

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This has occurred in the nearby environs most spectacularly with the Foyle Bridge and more physically damagingly with the associated Madam’s Bank Road and the remodelled Culmore Road, with the loss of a large area of park too. The effect of visually prominent development or changes in key views and approaches will alter depending on the distance from Boom Hall but also the elevation on the surrounding hillsides. The elevated valley sides to the west, east (Foyle River and wooded and demesne banks beyond), and north (Brook Hall and demesnes beyond), are of the highest sensitivity and small-scale changes may damage views and key elements of the setting.

Moderate impact – Small scale development or redevelopment in prominent nearby sites, such as single house-plots or developed more intensively with more houses or apartment blocks. Substantial changes to the appearance, fabric, management or use of buildings and their settings. Significant changes which have moderate visual impact on a restricted area.

A key part of the setting is on the elevated land west of Culmore Road where residential development exists at present. Redevelopment for more intensive and irreversible uses such as larger scale housing or offices could considerably damage this elevated aspect of the setting, both in the land use and potentially be more visible.

Low impact – Extensions, small-scale changes to the appearance, management or use of historic buildings, urban areas, agricultural land, woodland or significant designed landscape; change of use in small areas with low visual impact on a restricted area.

The effect of proposals will vary depending on the proximity to Boom Hall and levels of inter- visibility, and the relative height, elevation, scale and external aesthetics (e.g. colour, cladding material). The potentially damaging effect of numerous small-scale incremental changes, e.g. piecemeal changes to surrounding properties, should be considered as well as those from isolated larger-scale developments. Proposals within the areas intervisible with Boom Hall should be closely scrutinised to ensure that significant harm will not be sustained by key views. 8.5 ASSET TYPES OF THE SETTING, AND THEIR SENSITIVITY TO CHANGE General asset groupings Contribution to Sensitivity to Change; Issues significance of setting Rural topography and landscape: Major positive Vulnerable to high impact developments and to the nearby hillsides and distant incremental effect of numerous moderate to low impact mountains to west and east developments and changes of land use and management.

Nearby designed landscapes: Major positive Vulnerable to the loss of historic planting of late C18/C19 C18 & C19 villa demesnes Brook schemes, historically inappropriate replanting schemes, Hall, Thorn Hill, Ballynagard, changes of land use and management, and to highly visible Gransha and Enagh. developments, most damagingly in Gransha estate opposite. River Foyle landscape and Major positive Vulnerable both to high impact developments and to the environs incremental effect of numerous moderate to low impact developments, and changes of land management on the banks.

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Urban development of Derry on Moderate negative Intensive later C20 development. Considerable visibility east bank of Foyle from demesne. Vulnerable to taller development and loss of screening trees. Urban development of Derry to Major negative Modern development along Culmore Road. Damages the Boom Hall south approach: along historic character and views along this key historic the historic south approach from approach including of the entrance to Front Avenue drive in Derry Boomhall Lane. Vulnerable to higher intensity, taller buildings and irreversible redevelopment. Urban development of Muff to Major negative Modern development along west side of Culmore Road. Boom Hall north approach: along Damages the historic character and views along this key the road historically lined with historic approach. West side vulnerable to higher intensity, demesnes to the east and taller buildings. Demesnes on east side vulnerable to loss of smaller villas to the west historic trees and structures including lodges, walls and gateways, and irreversible redevelopment. Roads adjacent to Boom Hall: Major negative Vulnerable to intensification of tall structures and lighting Madam’s Bank & Culmore Road levels. Damages tranquillity of demesne to a high degree. developments 8.6 SIGNIFICANCE

The particular demesne setting of Boom Hall dominated by the River Foyle and the rolling rural hillsides is of the highest significance to the landscape design and Hall. The setting is based on the immediate and extensive landscape, which retains much of the rural character and extensive views which always complemented the ornamental design of Boom Hall.

Individually, the most significant surviving aspects of the historic setting are the nationally significant string of demesnes to north and east with the river itself, the public approaches from Derry and Muff (Eglinton) and the visible parts of the distant mountains. These areas relate not only to the ornamental demesne of Boom Hall but to the C17 military landscape.

The significances of individual views relating to the setting are set out above in Section 7 Views. The most significant are of the utmost value to the design. They relate to the Hall and key ornamented and pleasure ground features as well as the approach along the main drive. In the setting key views relate to the river, the demesnes beyond it and north of Boom Hall, and the two main approaches from north and south.

South and west of the demesne is irreversibly developed, along with the north tip of the former park, and the area is vulnerable to further more intensive and taller development. East of the river the potential redevelopment of the Gransha hospital campus and additional development with the new college nearby have the potential to damage key elements of the setting. 8.7 ISSUES Specific issues are noted in the table above, Asset Types and Their Sensitivity to Change.

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8.8 POLICIES S1: Identify, monitor and protect views relating to the setting, particularly the rural character. S2: Identify, monitor and protect other aspects of the setting, not only visual, from significant harmful changes. S3: Resist development or change which is considered inappropriate and detrimental to the significance of Boom Hall and the designed landscape. Views relating to Boom Hall, the river and the east bank are particularly important. The minimization of intrusion by harmful changes in the rest of the setting, not only visual, is also essential.

8.9 RECOMMENDATIONS

See Section 2.3 for definitions of the Priorities and Timescales.

Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Monitor planning applications which affect key views and High Ongoing essential aspects of the setting. Resist or advise on measures to mitigate the effects. Use justifications presented in this plan to underpin responses to inappropriate changes. 2. Establish a liaison group with managers of other demesnes High Medium of high significance to the setting of Boom Hall to discuss and influence potential change that affects the historic setting. 3. Prepare a setting study to identify in detail key areas of the Medium Long setting which are vulnerable to inappropriate development and the types of development which may be particularly damaging.

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9 HORTICULTURE

9.1 INTRODUCTION By the early C20 the distribution of a particular horticultural palette was specific to Boom Hall and defined the unique historic character to a great degree. Sadly the horticultural element has disappeared and no written records of species planted or their patterns other than on historic mapping have been found so far. The main sources include the C19 and early C20 Ordnance Survey maps and site survey which indicate that the palette and distribution was typical of the genre. There is no published account of the horticulture, indicating that it was probably not outstandingly innovative or specialist, but based on a typical ornamental and productive palette gardened to a high standard of expertise, and probably similar to that of the neighbouring demesnes (although a competitive element may have been encountered). 9.2 TYPES OF PLANTING The various types of horticulture that have been identified included: 1. Lawns and informal shrubberies enclosing the Hall including mature specimen trees and rhododendrons (Area 1). This was the immediate highly maintained setting for the Hall and was fenced from the grazed park beyond. 2. An ornamental garden south of the walled garden (referred to here as the flower garden) which was it seems an intensively cultivated horticultural showpiece, with one or more glasshouses (Area 3). It included trees and shrubs around the edge. 3. The walled kitchen garden and Slip Garden adjacent outside the wall to the north and east, together forming the intensively cultivated productive showpiece with vegetables, soft fruit, fruit trees and glasshouses for forcing and for tender subjects (Area 3). 9.3 OVERVIEW OF GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS INCLUDING CONDITION The formerly important ephemeral ornamental horticultural aspects in the surviving demesne are lost and their effect is eclipsed by the dominance of the trees and the absence of documentary evidence of the detail of planting. Mapping and surviving site features indicate the distribution of the various horticultural features which comprised: 1. Lawns and informal shrubberies enclosed the Hall amongst mature specimen trees (Area 1). This was the immediate highly maintained setting for the Hall, fenced from the pasture beyond. The area is derelict. A few robust shrubs survive including rhododendrons. 2. The D-shaped ornamental garden south of the walled garden was the main horticultural showpiece, including one or more glasshouses (Area 3). It was enclosed to the south by a ha- ha, allowing visitors long uninterrupted views towards the river. The informal layout (OS c.1850 and 1904) was encircled by a perimeter path and bisected by a central path connecting the Hall with the walled kitchen garden. The outer side of the south wall of the kitchen garden is of brick rather than stone, indicating that this area was intended as a sheltered garden perhaps for cultivating tender specimens alongside those in the glasshouse overlooking it. It is long abandoned and the highly maintained character has gone, but contains a few surviving shrubs including Portugal laurel. 3. The walled kitchen garden adjacent to the north, a sheltered and intensively cultivated productive showpiece with vegetables, soft fruit, fruit trees and glasshouses (Area 3). This was a typical demesne kitchen garden and would have been a place to display high

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horticultural skills and standards to the family’s visitors. It is grazed and former garden features including the layout have gone apart from the remains of a structure at the centre of the south wall. 4. The Slip Garden north of the kitchen garden (Area 3) were closely related to the productivity and initially used for vegetables. By the mid-C20 the area was an orchard and probably grazed below the fruit trees. The boundary was it seems fenced and the line is partly reflected in an outgrown hawthorn hedge. It is now grazed and features including the layout have gone apart from a central relict beech tree. 9.4 CONDITION, SURVIVAL & ISSUES 1. The diverse horticultural content has gone. This characterised the core of the unique designed landscape of Boom Hall, along with the hard landscaping and trees. 2. The planting is very poorly recorded. 3. The ephemeral lawns around the Hall and variety of intensive horticultural cultivation have gone. These areas are either grazed or abandoned to scrub. 4. A few ornamental shrubs survive including rhododendron, Portugal laurel and holly, indicating some of the more robust species used. These are typical of such C19 planting.

Figure 20 East Front of Hall, set on a terrace above a level lawn, c.1890s (Ayton). 9.5 SIGNIFICANCE The historical horticultural element was of high significance to the character of the ornamental design and also as the setting of the Hall, garden and pleasure ground. Although it has gone and the detail of the species used and their arrangement is unclear, this is not irreversible. 9.6 POLICIES • P1: Reinstate the horticultural component to evoke the ornamental character of a villa demesne, as established by c.1900 given C21 constraints. Restoring a diverse horticultural display is not the highest priority and ranks below conserving existing historic features including significant trees and structures and restoration of lawns, and park planting and

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management. • P2: If possible base replanting schemes on contextual sources such as the examples at nearby demesnes and evidence from the horticultural publications of the time. Evoke the variety of horticultural character established by c.1900. In the absence of strong documentary evidence to guide this consider using new schemes with modern design within the areas to complement the historic character, but avoid inappropriate modern planting schemes that damage the historic character. • P3: Undertake essential alterations where no significant harm will be caused to the historic design and character as far as possible. • P4: Materials should replicate or evoke historic precedents.

9.7 RECOMMENDATIONS

See Section 2.3 for definitions of the Priorities and Timescales.

Recommendations Priority Timescale 1. Audit and map the survival of horticultural features including Medium Medium planting, paths, bed outlines, terraces. 2. Draw up a programme to reinstate lawns and evoke ornamental Medium Medium horticultural displays based on site evidence and contextual sources. Prioritise significantly visible areas e.g. around the Hall and the flower garden.

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10 TREES

10.1 INTRODUCTION This assessment of historic trees is based on analysis of Ordnance Survey mapping in comparison with data gathered from a selection of surviving specimen trees noted and in some cases measured on 20 August 2020 in a walk-over survey, but not all present could be identified and measured in the time available. The walk-over survey data and images are presented in Appendix 7 with specialist commentary on ancient oaks in Ireland from Terence Reeves-Smyth in Appendix 8. Many other significant trees require systematic survey to identify species and position and measure girth.

This section is therefore a preliminary assessment based on the notable trees that were observed. The surviving trees probably reflect a narrower range of species than were present in the C19 and early C20 and may not reflect the full variety of species planted at various periods which may have been shorter lived or since removed. 10.2 TYPES OF PLANTING By the early C20 the distribution and palette of planting specific to Boom Hall defined the historic character to a great degree. No written records of species planted or their patterns other than on historic mapping have been found so far.The main sources include C19 and early C20 Ordnance Survey, site survey of surviving specimens and the few surviving historic images. Characteristic types of tree planting include: 1. Pleasure ground specimens including exotics enclosing the Hall (Area 1), set in lawns and shrubberies. 2. Ornamental woodland in The Grove, with specimen deciduous trees and conifers set in sward/lawn as a less intensive extension of the pleasure grounds (Area 1). This formed the sylvan backdrop for the Hall in views from the river and beyond and sheltered it from the prevailing westerly weather. It was a transition between the forecourt shrubberies and the park. 3. Grazed parkland with scattered specimen trees, divided into three main sections by the two drives, enclosing the core gardens and pleasure grounds (Areas 2 & 4). This included the avenue walks along the top of the riverside slopes. The southern one-third of the park and the south riverside avenue walk have gone. 4. Narrow belts of trees against the outer boundaries (Area 4). These areas of the demesne and their planting have gone. 5. Densely planted avenues of sycamore specimens along the two main drives (Area 4). 10.3 HISTORIC PATTERN AND SURVIVAL

10.3.1 Pre-Demesne Period, before 1690 The ownership and management before acquisition by the Honourable the Irish Society in 1613 are unclear. The land is thought to have been part of monastic estates which would presumably have included trees grown for various purposes (see ACA Conservation Management Plan). In 1613 the land which later formed the demesne was given to the Honourable the Irish Society. Management and tenancy under the Society’s ownership is unclear but it is likely that the land was agricultural with boundary specimen trees.

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Of the specimens measured for this project, the largest oak pollards (GBH 4-7m) could be of at least C17 planting, possibly earlier, and originating as boundary specimens. The mounds on which two stand in the Grove (Area 1) could be the remains of boundary banks. By contrast the line of four above the break of slope south of the Hall overlooking the river (Area 2) are not on mounds. Pollards were functional in their purpose and management, trained so that the branches were above the browse line but low enough so that they could be regularly harvested, allowing regrowth without damage from livestock. This type of management indicates an origin before the parkland layout. It contrasts with trees managed for timber which required tall straight trunks. The Woodland Trust database identifies these specimens as hybrid Sessile and English Oak, Quercus x rosacea.

The standard sweet chestnut (GBH 6m) near King James’s Well (Area 2) has been a fine specimen but is in decline. It was planted as an ornamental, although the nuts were eaten; the species was commonly used as a prestigious ornamental from the C16 in England onwards. It forms part of the former lines of the two parallel avenue paths running north from the Hall to the riverside mapped in 1830. The girth is comparable with trees of the C16 found in England (e.g. at Burghley House, Cambridgeshire), but the moister Irish climate may have resulted in faster growth and so it could C17 or even C18. See Appendix 8 for further discussion of ancient oak in Ireland.

10.3.2 1649 and 1689 Sieges While it is very unlikely that trees were planted in association with these events, it is likely that many trees were lost for firewood or construction. However, mapping of the 1689 siege (Figures 2 & 3) shows that some trees flanking the river were retained, possibly as cover for soldiers, their encampments, fortifications and weapons on the bank to prevent the enemy from seeing them. Of these the most relevant were a former line south of Charles Fort (the area now housing), and to the north outside the Boom Hall demesne in Brook Hall demesne (the besiegers’ headquarters), a substantial orchard and grove. It seems that the largest pollards that survive in Boom Hall demesne (at least 6 specimens) withstood these events, but the original management of regular crown cutting was discontinued long ago. They have not been pollarded for centuries.

10.3.3 1690-1770s, Early Alexanders The management of the demesne in the early occupation by the Alexander family is unclear. The landscape was perhaps tightly drawn around their first house but the boundary and position of the building is unclear. Their first house probably had some sort of landscape including trees for ornament.

10.3.4 1770s-1849, Later Alexanders Existing trees of the first house were probably incorporated when the new house was built for James Alexander in the 1770s during the layout of the new landscape. The tree pattern on the 1830 1st edition OS reflects the accumulation of woody planting including anything retained from the earlier phases before the 1770s and additional planting of the late C18/early C19 to create the new naturalistic landscape garden and park associated with the new Hall. This cumulatively forms the first significant surviving ornamental design phase for the demesne, by the Alexanders. It is possible that landscaping and associated tree planting occurred in two sub-phases: first for James / Robert

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Alexander in the 1770s-80s, based on the naturalistic landscape park style redolent of Capability Brown; secondly in the early C19 Regency period, probably for General Alexander (in residence c.1806-17), based on the Picturesque style.

Specimens surviving in the Grove (Area 1), riverside slopes (Area 2) and walled garden (Area 3) form part of the most significant planting apparently from this period including horse chestnuts, lime, beech, standard oak, and possibly sweet chestnut. The 1830 OS shows a considerable proportion of conifers used in both the park and pleasure grounds, including a line alongside the north riverside walk, but these have all gone. The conifers were probably Scots pine and fir, used both as nurse trees to shelter broadleaved specimens and as ornamentals including the line alongside the north riverside walk (Area 2). Mature trees surrounded the upper slopes of King James’s Well (Area 2), apparently planted to shelter it while retaining the river view and as part of a possibly Picturesque layout to emphasize it as one of the most significant feature and destination.

10.3.5 1849-62, Daniel Baird Completion of the Layout The second major surviving ornamental design phase for the demesne was around the time that Baird bought the demesne and is reflected in the present layout, bringing it to its most fully developed. The 2nd edn OS shows that tree planting was associated with new features particularly the Front Avenue (Area 5) and flower garden (Area 3).

Surviving specimens of this period are likely to include the pleasure ground Wellingtonia in front of (west) of the Hall and accompanying two Irish yew (Area 1). The Wellingtonia was not introduced to cultivation until 1853 after which it became a common specimen in demesnes. The Irish yew was introduced from Florence Court, County Fermanagh, and was commonly available by the 1830s. It became ubiquitous in Victorian gardens and pleasure grounds as its compact form emulated the tender needle-like Italian Cypress in parterres and pleasure grounds. It was not planted in open parks, being poisonous to livestock. Baird reworked the pleasure ground paths and forecourt around the Hall and it is likely other surviving specimens date from this phase.

The trees were accurately surveyed by the OS in detail in 1904, published at 25” scale. Comparison of this map with the current topographical survey indicates survivals and losses since then.

The OS shows the coverage established by Baird, including detail distinguishing conifers and broadleaves. Specimen conifers were scattered in the fenced garden around the Hall, including the surviving Wellingtonia, several in the Grove near the south drive (both Area 1), and a group of specimen conifers on the slope near the stream ravine (Area 2). Although the walks to north and south along the top of the slopes (Area 2) had gone, their courses were reflected in lines of specimen broadleaves, many of which survive to the north. The flower garden (Area 3) had several trees around the ha-ha boundary, which do not seem to survive. A sporadic line of trees marked the riverside boundary (Area 2), some of which remain. The little fenced ravine in which the stream leads to the river near the north boundary (Area 2) contained conifers and broadleaves. It retains several mature trees, including a fine beech at the upper, west end.

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10.3.6 Later C19 and early C20, Tenants This period is characterised by the significant number of surviving sycamore specimens throughout the demesne which clearly thrive. The recently planted specimens were mapped on the 1904 OS. Girth measurements confirm that the sycamore specimens date from this period, including the lines along the two drives, along with scattered specimens in park and pleasure ground planting within the mid-C19 framework consolidated by Baird by 1862. While this sycamore planting related to and enhanced existing features established by the Alexanders and Baird, this phase had its own significance as it established the strong and continuing contribution of sycamore to the historic character in a manner which was sensitive to the existing landscape design.

The Front Avenue drive trees (Area 5) survive well in Boomhall Lane. They were intended to frame the most significant approach to the mansion from the mid-C19, but are now outside the demesne and surrounded by C20 housing. Despite the loss of their immediate park setting they remain a strong element of the ornamental design and are linked to the demesne via a modern path under the bridge. Most specimens survive and all are covered by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO).5 In addition are around 6 specimens behind the wing walls which apparently belong to the property owners of the walls and are not covered by TPOs but should be.

The Main (formerly Back) Drive (Area 4) planting survives less well but retains a strong element of its historic character. It lost all the trees at the west end when that section of the drive went under the Culmore Road. The surviving east half has lost probably half its specimens, particularly on the north side, and so is less uniform than Front Avenue in Boomhall Lane.

The spacing of the Front Avenue specimens in the rows has not been measured but will be characteristic of Boom Hall and contribute to the character, whether it is at regular or irregular distances. The Front Avenue spacing is also likely to reflect the pattern used for the remaining stretch of the Main (formerly Back) Drive which is now fragmentary and should be used to inform replanting positions.

Figure 21 Boom Hall from the south-east, early C20 (NMNI Lawrence Collection, WAG 2412)

5 See Dr Philip Blackstock, Tree Survey Boomhall Lane for Derry City and Strabane Council , February 2019, for mapping, sizes and condition notes.

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Figure 22 Boom Hall from the south-east, early C20, detail (NMNI Lawrence Collection, WAG 2412). The trees lining the former walks along the top of the slope to north and south are evident to right and left of the Hall, also scattered specimens on the slopes, along the riverside and a backdrop of mature trees behind the Hall in The Grove.

Figure 23 Boom Hall, east front, slopes and riverside wall World War II

The early-mid-C20 photographs above reflect the pattern on the 1904 OS and indicate that by this point views to and from the Hall were filtered by the mature trees. A narrow gap was left in front of the Hall overlooking the river, but the house appeared nestled into the surrounding trees; views out were framed by the trees in some cases and screened in others.

Other trees may have been planted in this phase but further site survey work is required to identify specimens and their pattern.

10.3.7 Mid-C20-C21 This period of neglect and destruction resulted in the cumulative loss of many trees, including narrow boundary belts to the south-west and north-west, the west end of the main drive, specimen park trees and the south half of the riverside slopes. It led to the growth of scrub and self-sown trees which have blurred the ornamental pattern of planting and open spaces, particularly around the Hall. Pockets of mature holly trees survive particularly on the slopes (Area 2) and in the Grove (Area 1). It is likely that these specimens were planted as part of the ornamental scheme but they have grown larger than intended and in some cases are interfering with other trees and screening views.

Additional planting included at least one hawthorn hedge in the park (Area 4) which is historically inappropriate and introduces dividing features which damage the historically sweeping open

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character. Screen planting along the new roads to the west has been introduced but the species used should be reviewed and adjusted to reflect the historic species. Recent woodland in the north corner of the park (beyond Council ownership) frames and shelters the hospice and forms a backdrop for the rising park. 10.4 CONDITION, SURVIVAL AND ISSUES 1. The demesne has sustained losses of historic trees, evident from comparison on site with historic mapping. This degraded the historic pattern of planting of Boom Hall and the characteristics particular to individual areas, but much of the tree population and the pattern established by the early C20 is largely recoverable. 2. The original diversity of species and their use is unclear, but it formed part of the unique designed landscape of Boom Hall, along with the hard landscaping and horticultural elements. While the surviving mature demesne trees indicate a strong element of the type of palette used, there is little record of any species that have been lost; these may have made a considerable contribution to the historic character, particularly shorter-lived conifers and ornamental broadleaves. 3. The historic planting scheme is poorly documented. Historic OS mapping, which is the best documentary source, indicates that many specimens have been lost from the surviving area. 4. There is no complete detailed tree survey of surviving historic specimens throughout the demesne recording the species, position and girth to indicate a pattern of phases and distribution and the overall survival since the zenith of the landscape by 1904 in comparison with the distribution shown on the OS of that date. 5. The pattern of significant trees is blurred by self-sown trees some of which are mature. These later arrivals are the result of neglect and damage the complex historic design. 6. Many significant trees are in poor condition or in decline, and those in grazed areas are vulnerable to damage from livestock. 7. Trees in the Grove survive but the diversity is less as the conifers have gone. The ornamental qualities are blurred by poor management and ad hoc fencing. The high quality maintenance has gone, along with the fence line dividing it from the park to the west. 8. The wildlife population and habitat significance is unclear. 9. Dead wood in parkland damages the historic character and views, but is an important habitat. 10. The main drive avenue is denuded of the full number of sycamore specimens intended. 11. The screening park belts to the south-west and north-west have gone. They have not been replaced against the new roads damaging the rural demesne views. Lack of direct control over management of former historic park areas, in particular roadside verges to west and south, and the hospice to the north may result in planting which does not follow the historic planting scheme and damages the historic character. 10.5 SIGNIFICANCE • The mature tree population is of high significance as it is a rare surviving example of such a wide age range and relatively large number of mature specimens in a demesne that form part of the landscape design. • The arrangement of trees in various ways for ornamental effect is typical of high quality demesne design, including drive avenues, pleasure ground avenues, park specimens and clumps, a pleasure ground grove, exotic pleasure ground specimens framing the house.

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• The species are typical common ornamentals for such a demesne but the range is narrower than was intended, with the loss of some species particularly conifers. • The oak pollards are of the highest significance for the rarity of age, management origins and origins before the demesne, as well as their incorporation as key elements of the design. They are some of the oldest in Northern Ireland. • The trees are of high significance as a habitat for various types of wildlife: for their wide range of age and condition, for their close relationship with the grazed sward as wood pasture and river habitats, and for the corridor links with adjacent demesne habitats. 10.6 POLICIES 1. T1. Overall: Understand the intended designed planting patterns of demesne trees, i.e. the whole landscape design as established by the early C20, with positions based on those on 1904 OS 25” plan. 2. T2. Reinstate or evoke the tree planting as per the layout and species by 1904 as far as possible. Retain where possible & replant trees to restore, sustain and elaborate that design. Remove trees which are inconsistent with those patterns or are inappropriate species. 3. T3. Character of planting periods: When planting as described in Policy T1 above, maintain the distinction between the palette of species used for a) different periods and b) in different locations, and their specific parentages. 4. T4. Tree planting and tree health: Ensure that planting does not introduce disease into existing or future tree populations and that long term planting and maintenance maximises their survival into viable mature specimens. Propagate from key specimens for replacements of important species. 5. T5. Historic and Nature Conservation Values: Enhance the historic understanding of the tree and woodland resource and its value to wildlife without causing significant damage to the historic ornamental character. 10.7 RECOMMENDATIONS

See Section 2.3 for definitions of the Priorities and Timescales.

Recommendation Priority Timescale

1. Survey trees to establish age and species and the detailed High Short pattern of distribution. Distinguish significant historic specimens from those which damage the historic design. 2. Identify remedial works required to prolong the life of High Short specimens of the highest historic significance and implement a long term programme of works. 3. Clear invasive &/or self-set scrub or woodland particularly areas which obscure key views. High Medium- Long

4. Draw up and implement a phased replanting plan reflecting High Medium- historic species and their distribution in particular areas Long based on the 1904 OS.

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5. Ensure staff are fully trained in the correct planting, aftercare and maintenance of young trees to ensure their High Ongoing survival to maturity as viable landscape trees. 6. Implement a dead-wood policy to ensure that the historic ornamental character seen from key viewpoints including Medium Medium the Hall, main drive and pleasure grounds is not damaged. Remove standing specimens and fallen wood visible from these features and relocate to areas of low visbility.

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11 MANAGEMENT OF THE PARK

11.1 INTRODUCTION The management of a park was historically as important as the rest of the designed layout to convey the correct appearance and character. It was the ornamental agricultural and sylvan showpiece, and the management heralded and complemented the impressive architecture of the house and the luxury in which the owners lived. It presented a showpiece designed to impress. The management formed a key aspect of the presentation in a specific regime to a high standard as a unit.

Thus an understanding of the historic park management at Boom Hall (Areas 2 & 4) is important in the conservation of the demesne to perpetuate the historic character of the carefully designed ornamental landscape framework and watercourses. Park trees are addressed in the previous section. 11.1 OVERVIEW OF HISTORIC CHARACTER By the early C20 Boom Hall was surrounded by a typical landscape park, intended to demonstrate the high quality and prestige of the gardens, parkland, the specimen trees, and belts. The park floor was managed as grazed sward. It was ornamented by numerous specimen trees and avenues arranged for visual effect, enclosed by several boundary belts, based on the late C18 vision consolidated in the early-mid-C19 in similar style. CURRENT MANAGEMENT AND ISSUES 11.2 SWARD

11.2.1 Management Traditional management for an ideal landscape park presented a uniform open sward broken up by specimen trees. Together these form wood pasture wildlife habitat which is a rare type almost always found in demesnes. This is the situation in the park.

The Nolan map (dated 1856 but surveyed some years earlier, c.1849) reliably indicated that, very unusually, despite the numerous scattered trees, much of the park was arable with only the 13 acres of the slopes (Area 2) as sward, this being noted as meadow (i.e. cultivated for hay). It is unclear whether this extensive area of arable cultivation persisted, as in a demesne sward was more prestigious than arable, and ploughing around the trees presented practical difficulties and damaged their surface roots. The park normally provided grazing and fodder for the carriage and riding horses, in part showing them off as part of the scenery. The 13 acres of riverside hay meadow may not have been sufficient to provide hay for them. It is remotely possible that, prompted by the effects of the great famine of the late 1840s, the sward was turned over to food crops temporarily. After this the level parkland seems to have been returned to gazed sward, which has not been subject to artificial pesticides and weedkillers. The slopes may never have been ploughed due to the steep gradient and possible persistence of C17 military earthworks causing unevenness.

The park is grazed and retains its intended essential open aspect of sward below specimen trees. The appearance of grazed or hayed sward reflects the historic character rather than that produced by modern mowing regimes. This traditional management is a very important continuity of the

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design intention, avoiding invasion by scrub, but the sward is poorly managed. It is overgrazed, the grass is sparse and weedy (including much ragwort), the ground is compacted, and rubbish proliferates.

11.2.2 Issues • Recent management has degraded the sward and damaged the trees. • The park sward contains invasive weeds including ragwort, Himalayan balsam and knotweed and has low floral diversity. • Intensification of management may alter the historic character and damage the important and rare wood pasture habitat. • The wildlife population and habitat significance is unclear. 11.3 BOUNDARIES

11.3.1 Management Boundaries were important and characteristic to the design. By the early C20 they apparently comprised three main types relating to specific positions: 1. Demesne boundary walls: These extensive and prestigious walls lined the two most prominent and public boundaries: Culmore Road and the Foyle river bank. The roadside wall has almost entirely gone (a fragment may remain in front of Gleneagles) but short stretches of the riverside wall survive to indicate the style and materials. It is likely that the roadside wall was of similar construction and formed part of a continuous roadside line with the other demesne walls. 2. Fencing within the park. This was principally used to line the drives and enclose the pleasure grounds, leaving large open sweeps of parkland through which the drives swept. The fencing has gone. In the late C19/early C20 it was likely iron park fencing in a style particular to the demesne and a section survives near the house which may indicate the estate style. Stretches of such fencing and gateways often survive in the demesne to indicate materials and style. The historic fences have been replaced by timber fences and hedges which do not follow historic materials and often follow new lines which divide the park into smaller sections than was intended. 3. Ha-ha between the flower garden and grazed slopes. This sunken boundary kept livestock out of the flower garden without intruding in views over the slopes and river. Surviving stretches of the retaining wall are faced with the coursed schist which is typically used on the demesne. 4. Kitchen Garden Wall: See Section 6, Structures.

11.3.2 Issues • The roadside wall has gone. It is impractical to replace it as the road has altered greatly. • The riverside wall has largely gone, leaving only short stretches which indicate its style and materials. These are vulnerable to collapse particularly from flooding by the river. • Boundaries within the park are fenced with modern fencing materials and makeshift fencing including barbed wire proliferates throughout the demesne. • Additional park boundaries have been introduced, reducing the open sweeps of sward that were intended.

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• The ha-ha is in places in ruinous condition and the wall is lost. • The boundary fence that formerly lined the main drive and enclosed the pleasure ground has gone. It is likely that it was iron park rail. • The kitchen garden wall is lost in places and in poor condition otherwise, with damaging new openings punched in it. 11.4 DRIVES

11.4.1 Management Drives through the grazed and planted park facilitated the first experience of visitors to Boom Hall and were very carefully managed to ensure the park was presented as a showpiece, heralded from a public road by the prestigious gateways and lodges. Here drives were fenced on either side to form parkland divisions, and were smoothly surfaced with bound gravel and presented to a crisp standard. The views were very important, and the drives overlooked a highly maintained parkland free of dead trees and fallen wood, and beyond over the river to the distant mountains. The apron between the back drive and the stable block was cobbled, together with the stable yard, areas of which survive.

11.4.2 Issues • The main drive no longer has a gravel appearance but is black tarmac. • The historic west half of the main drive has been realigned off Culmore Road, and a new gateway installed which does not reflect historic precedent. • The forecourt is derelict. The historic appearance and outline are no longer evident. • The Front Avenue drive is detached from the demesne and the original vehicle connection with the Hall is lost. It is still connected via a path below the Foyle Bridge and a modern cycle path but the cycle path does not follow an historic route. However, there is potential to address this in any future access related projects that are explored by the Council. • The Listed Front Avenue gateway and walls at the entrance to Boomhall Lane off Culmore Road are in poor condition and in divided ownership. This considerably damages the historic character and fabric of the most important entrance to the park from the mid-C19 onwards. It continues to be vulnerable to damage and will deteriorate without remedial work. 11.5 PATHS

The paths were at their most fully developed by the early C20 as shown on the 1904 OS. They were within the fenced enclosure around the Hall, in the flower garden, and on the east slopes including the north and south avenues. As important elements of the design not only did they facilitate access to features but they provided access to designed views and viewpoints. They were probably surfaced with local aggregate to present a smooth and well-drained route.

11.5.1 Issues • The paths have all gone. It is likely that some stretches survive below the present vegetation where the ground has remained undisturbed. • The construction of the paths and the surfacing materials are unclear. • The tree-lined riverside avenue paths had gone by 1904 but the routes were still marked by

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the trees. They had been important elements of the early-mid-C19 layout and probably dated from the late C18. It is possible that their loss was due to neglect by the tenants. The park through which the south path stretched has largely gone but the site of the north path survives and may yield evidence of materials and construction. • The path layout of the kitchen garden was recorded on the c.1850 OS but not on the later mapping. It had gone by the mid-C20 and the area has been greatly disturbed; it is likely that little survives but elements may be found by archaeological methods. 11.6 WATERCOURSES

11.6.1 Park Stream Within the demesne a stream runs west to east across the park past the north side of the Slip Garden into the Foyle (Areas 2 & 4). The early course across the park was shown on the 1830 OS, and this was mostly culverted in the mid-C19, by c.1850 (OS). The lowest, east end was left open as a 150m long narrow ravine lined with trees and shrubs which was apparently a picturesque feature crossed by one or two bridges dividing the riverside slopes from the park. It is likely that the culverting was part of a C19 drainage scheme for the park. The watercourse is a wildlife habitat within the wider wood pasture habitat in the parkland and directly linked via the ravine to the River Foyle habitat (see below).

The structure, purpose and condition of the culvert are unclear and require investigation. The structure seems to have collapsed east of the main drive where reeds and flag iris have colonised the sward. The ravine survives along with several mature specimen trees and one or more bridges although these were not inspected. The wider system of park drainage (if any) is unclear, particularly whether there is any functioning drainage.

11.6.2 The River Foyle The east boundary of the demesne has always been defined by the river. There is no record of use by the owners or their tenants of the river for recreation such as sailing or for access particularly from Derry. Mapping shows no boathouse or jetty unlike in adjacent Brook Hall. It forms a major habitat enclosing part of the demesne and linking it to other demesnes and habitats and is connected to the outfall of the park stream.

Parts of the riverside wall survive but are subject to inundation by the tidal stream. Some of the line of riverside trees survive but some stretches are congested with scrub. The condition of the bank is unclear, particularly whether it is stable or subject to damaging erosion.

11.6.3 Issues • The structure, purpose and condition of the park culvert require investigation. It seems to have collapsed east of the main drive as indicated by the reeds. • The form and condition of the ravine bridge(s) are unclear. • The park drainage system is unclear, particularly whether there is any functioning drainage. • The condition of the river bank is unclear and requires investigation. • The riverside wall survives only in small stretches which are subject to inundation by the tidal flow and may eventually collapse.

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• The wildlife population and habitat significance is unclear. 11.7 SIGNIFICANCE The historical management regime of all these aspects of the park is of high significance to the character of the ornamental design and also as the setting of the Hall, garden and pleasure ground. 11.8 POLICIES • P1: Restore and maintain the park to reflect the rural and sylvan layout of a villa demesne, as reflected on the 1904 OS, given C21 constraints. • P2: Manage using traditional methods including grazing sward. • P3: Minimise inappropriate modern uses that damage the historic fabric or character • P4: Undertake essential alterations where no significant harm will be caused to the historic design and character as far as possible. • P5: Materials for boundaries and routes should replicate or evoke historic precedent.

11.9 RECOMMENDATIONS

See Section 2.3 for definitions of the Priorities and Timescales.

11.9.1 Boundaries and Divisions of the Park Recommendations Priority Timescale 1. Audit fence lines, styles and materials to identify aspects which are Medium Medium not historically appropriate. Reinstate historic positions, styles and materials. Prioritise stretches in significantly visible areas e.g. seen from the Hall, drive and pleasure grounds. 2. Rationalise as far as possible internal fence lines, minimizing them Medium Medium to reinstate the early C20 pattern of enclosures, while accommodating practicalities of C21 management.

11.9.2 Sward and Routes Recommendations Priority Timescale 1. Eradicate invasive/ noxious weeds: ragwort and knotweed. High Short 2. Improve the management of the park sward by reinstating Medium Long/ traditional management methods based on sustainable grazing. ongoing 3. Reinstate the appearance of the drive to evoke the high quality Medium Medium- early C20 character as bound gravel surfacing. Long 4. Reinstate paths based on the mid-C19 OS layout to provide visitor routes from the Hall down to the riverside. 5. Remove C20 structures in the park, as far as circumstances allow. Low Medium

11.9.3 Watercourses Recommendations Priority Timescale 1. Survey the riverside wall to establish its extent and condition and High Short inform a sustainable stabilisation programme.

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2. Survey the stream, culvert and ravine to establish the function, form Medium Medium and condition of structures and inform a repair programme. 3. Investigate the park drainage system to establish the function, Medium Medium structure and condition and inform a repair programme. 4. Survey the condition of the river bank and vegetation; implement Medium Medium remedial works to prevent damaging flooding/ erosion.

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12 ARCHAEOLOGICAL EVIDENCE AND POTENTIAL

12.1 INTRODUCTION This preliminary assessment of the archaeological potential of the site is intended to be an initial guide for future management and changes. This is based on documentary evidence together with field evidence identified from this landscape survey and archaeological reports. Based on an assessment of this information, the following aspects of the site and its setting have been recognized with potential for archaeological evidence to be identified. This is not complete but provides an indication of the most likely evidence. 12.2 SOURCES OF DATA Archaeological reports and articles consulted for this section include the results of a reconnaissance investigation in 2012-2013: MacDonald, P. & McAlister, G., ‘Archaeological Investigations of the C17 Military Landscape at Boom Hall, County Londonderry’ Ulster Journal of Archaeology Third Series LXXI (2012), 150-65.

MacDonald, P. & McAlister, G., ‘Evaluation No. 5 the Seventeenth-Century Military Landscape at Boom Hall’ unpublished report, (2012), 88-106.

Since 2012 the Centre for Community Archaeology at Queen's (CAF) has undertaken two investigations, most recently in October 2019 on behalf of the Boomhall Trust with funding from the Historic Environment Division (HED), DfC's Historic Environment Fund. The most recent work sets out the work conducted, taking into account the results of the previous fieldwork and setting the results in the historical context: Centre for Community Archaeology, Queen’s University Belfast, ‘Data Structure Report No. 133 Excavation at Boomhall, Ballynashallog, Derry-Londonderry, October 2019’. Undertaken on behalf of the Boomhall Trust; funded through Historic Environment Division DfC, Historic Environment Fund. 12.3 DOCUMENTARY AND SITE SOURCES INDICATING EVIDENCE

12.3.1 Features known from analysis of documentary and photographic evidence The sources for this include historic OS maps, estate maps, 1689 siege maps, historic photographs and LiDAR: a) C17 military structures of the 1649 and 1689 sieges and other structures mapped in 1690.6 b) The 1689 military burial ground mentioned by Macaulay (1848), possibly in the former flower garden within the ha-ha south of the kitchen garden. c) The original Alexander house (1690s-early C18) and landscape.7 d) Early agricultural boundaries incorporated into the park after 1770, echoed in the lines of trees on the 1830 OS.

6 See MacDonald, P. & McAlister, G., “Evaluation No. 5 the C17 Military Landscape at Boom Hall” unpublished report, (2012), 88-106. 7 The site is unclear with little indication of approximate location. A family history of 1863 by the Rev. Robert Alexander indicates that stood north of the present Hall, possibly in the vicinity of the kitchen garden. Macdonald/McAllister (2012, p.89) suggest that the flower garden ha-ha is indicative of the site of the early house but this boundary did not exist until the mid-C19 (compare OS 1st & 2nd editions).

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e) Drives: park routes mapped on OS including along the west boundary of the Grove; north of the Slip Garden; between the east side of the kitchen garden and the Brook Hall boundary. f) Horticultural features on OS, particularly C19 beds and paths, shrubbery beds associated with pleasure grounds, flower garden features, kitchen garden paths, structures and beds. g) Water features mapped on OS: e.g. small formal pond in flower garden, culvert structures for the stream across the park, pond north of the Slip Garden, features in the small ravine. h) Buildings on OS: glasshouses and sheds associated with the kitchen garden; structures in farm yards. Other structures in park/ pleasure grounds mapped in C18/C19. i) World War II structures in photographs, including the huts (e.g. see the 2 WRNS sitting on the river wall). Documents may exist in PRONI or The National Archive, Kew, which include mapping of features. Limited trial trenches or surface scraping may reveal or confirm their position/extent. Detailed field survey and use of LiDAR may help to identify positions.

12.3.2 Indications from extant site features/finds/earthworks a) Pre-Plantation (1613) features of agricultural and other uses, possibly related to banks and the pollarded oaks. b) C17 military evidence related to the sieges. A stone on the East Slopes may be the ‘Boom Stone’ which anchored the west end of the 1689 boom and was formerly displayed flanked by two cannon. Parts of weapons and extensive ammunition found throughout the slopes with related items. King James’s Well believed to be a key part of the military landscape and possibly where King James camped. One of the metal rings survives fixed into the rocks which reputedly were the anchor points holding the ropes supporting the boom. Further features apparently survive, including land boundaries. See discussion in Appendix 3, Section 19.3.4, Figures 28-30, and pdf overlay file ‘Overlay Historic Maps LIDAR Boom Hall SRHEL 09 Sep 20’. c) Landform and paths of the pleasure ground around the Hall and features on the East Slopes. d) Trees, including their formation, management regimes and pits after stumps have rotted. e) C18/C19 drive construction and surfacing materials beneath the main drives. f) Horticultural features, e.g. C19 flower and shrubbery beds. g) Relict structures of the kitchen and flower garden and buried footings. h) World War II structures particularly the huts east of the Hall, the footings of which survive. 12.4 SUMMARY OF MAIN PERIODS FOR POTENTIAL EVIDENCE Potential for archaeological remains is highest related to the following activity: • Buried remains of early (including prehistoric) settlement and other activity. The site is on river terracing surrounded by alluvial deposits and was an ideal site for settlement by the river; the river was a centre of settlement in prehistoric times. • The post-medieval period particularly the Civil War period (c.1649) and Siege occupation (1689), and early demesne features 1690-1770. • The demesne from 1770 to the mid-C20. • World War II related to the occupation by the Admiralty/WRNS. 12.5 POTENTIAL BY PERIOD This section amplifies the potential identified above.

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12.5.1 Prehistoric Artefacts dating from the Mesolithic, Neolithic, Bronze Age and the Iron Age may be found which reflect a continued use of the river in the environs of Boom Hall. The River Foyle was a centre for settlement in prehistoric times, with known sites and findspots from the Mesolithic to the Bronze Age on both riverbanks. On the west bank a major Neolithic settlement site was found during the construction of Thornhill College, Culmore Road. Neolithic flints were found at Brook Hall, prehistoric flint scatters near Ballynagard House, and a Neolithic track at Ballyarnet. On the east bank two Neolithic houses were found during the construction of the A2 at Upper Campsie, and another at Enagh.

Potential exists for prehistoric archaeological remains within the entire demesne, but it is difficult to predict specific locations. The areas with highest potential are those of least disturbance, particularly open parkland (Areas 2 & 4).

Figure 24 LiDAR coverage of the demesne for areas without trees (Foyle River Gardens).

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See also Figure 28 and pdf separate overlay file.

Figure 25 LiDAR coverage of the whole demesne including below trees (Foyle River Gardens). See also Figure 28 and pdf separate overlay file.

12.5.2 Post-Medieval 1500-1770 Potential exists for evidence of the post-medieval period for features predating the current layout where subsequent disturbance has been low. In many cases it is difficult to predict specific sites. The areas with highest potential are those of least disturbance, particularly open parkland (Areas 2 & 4). In particular: a) Pre-Plantation (1613) land use and agricultural features relating to the uses of the less disturbed land now in parkland, e.g. banks, field boundaries, drainage features, etc. b) The C17 Plantation landscape 1613-1690, probably largely agricultural c) The C17 military landscape: Civil War siege (1649); Williamite War siege (1689). The c.1690 siege maps indicate the position of major structures but these have proved difficult to locate. Recent finds of musket balls and other small artefacts on the riverside slope indicate high potential for evidence here and possibly all over the demesne. The slope below the Hall (Area 2) has yielded ammunition along its length indicating a site of combat. Around the well a lead seal with a fleur de Lys from an officer’s orders and piece of C17 French pottery. Macaulay noted a military cemetery in the flower garden south of the kitchen garden (1848). This seems to correspond with a zig-zag earthwork shown on one Siege Map (Figures 28-30)

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which, if a trench, was perhaps used afterwards to bury the dead. In addition land boundaries in the north of the park still reflect features shown on that map. d) Former demesne buildings erected for the Alexanders between 1690 and 1770. e) Garden layout, structures and buildings of the Alexanders’ early demesne, 1690-1770.

12.5.3 Demesne 1770-mid-C20, the Present Layout Potential exists for features laid out as part of the ornamental demesne which are mapped on the C19 and early C20 OS but have since disappeared or been partially lost. These include structures, drives, paths, garden beds, water features, ornamental features including King James’s Well.

12.5.4 World War II Considerable evidence survives for the requisition of the Hall and demesne as accommodation for the Women’s Royal Naval Service (WRNS). This was part of the extensive use of the River Foyle by the Admiralty as a strategic base with immediate access to defend the Atlantic convoys. The most obvious evidence is the remains of Quonset/Nissen huts erected around at least two sides of the Hall, the concrete bases of some of which remain.8 Correspondence between the Maturin-Baird land agent and McDevitt after the war indicates 12 units around the Hall. A document retrieved at Kew outlining plans to accommodate 600 Wrens in Derry, indicates that there were 120 Wrens billetted at Boomhall.9 The photograph from the river of the Wrens sitting on the wall (Figure 23) shows 5 huts on the level croquet lawn east of the Hall. A path connected the huts with the south front of the Hall and a doorway to the air raid shelter within. Further research at PRONI and TNA, Kew, may identify associated structures or features and indicate areas of further potential.

Figure 26 Aerial photograph with possible position of Quonset/Nissen huts in World War II. 12.6 HIGH POTENTIAL FOR EVIDENCE BY CHARACTER AREAS

12.6.1 Site-wide Particularly in Less Disturbed Areas (Areas 2 &4) It is likely that most of the surviving demesne has been greatly disturbed since the 1770s, particularly with landscaping activities between 1770 and 1850, but also with military occupation during World War II. This has probably destroyed much evidence of earlier activity, particularly earthwork features and footings just below ground level. The areas which are likely to be least disturbed since the 1770s are parkland areas of Character Areas 2 & 4. Potential evidence includes:

8 See Johnson, 1997. A Quonset or Nissen hut is a prefabricated building of corrugated metal with a semicircular cross section. 9 Pers. comm. B. O’Donnell.

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Prehistoric evidence, but it is likely to be occasional and widely scattered. C17 military sites and finds C18-C19 demesne structures: walls, fences, & gateways, drives, structures, sculpture bases Tree pits where stumps have rotted 1940s military structures associated with the WRNS base.

Potential for evidence related to particular areas is as follows:

12.6.2 Area 1 Hall, Pleasure Grounds, The Grove a) C17 evidence, both earthwork and buried features, and artefacts such as ammunition. b) C18/C19 horticultural features: paths, beds, lawn edging, sculpture bases, terracing, fence- lines, around the Hall and in the Grove. c) C19 Hall service yard features below the north-east front including walls, gasometer, paving, extensions d) Historic construction and surfacing of demesne drives and forecourt below current surfaces. e) World War II structures (hut bases and footings), concrete paths and artefacts.

12.6.3 Area 2 East Slopes a) C17 military evidence, both earthwork and buried features and artefacts such as ammunition including the site of the battery and flanking defences. b) Lost structures relating to King James’s Well and the Boom Stone, both from C17 military use and as a demesne ornament including perimeter enclosure. c) Lost stretches of the riverside demesne wall footings. d) Demesne structures in the ‘ravine’, including bridges and stonework. e) Lost demesne paths shown on the 1830 and c.1850 OS, including the riverside walk, paths below the Hall and those leading to King James’s Well. Some are evident on LiDAR coverage. f) World War II structures (hut bases and footings), concrete paths and artefacts.

12.6.4 Area 3 Kitchen Garden, Stables and Yards, Flower Garden, Slip Garden a) C17 military evidence, both earthwork and buried features, and artefacts such as ammunition including the site of the zig zag earthwork, probably a defensive trench. b) 1689 military cemetery in the flower garden noted by Macaulay (1848), possibly using the zig zag trench to bury soldiers. c) Demesne buildings including glasshouses, garden sheds, farm structures. d) Lost features of the demesne flower garden layout: paths, ha-ha wall, ponds, beds. e) Lost features of the kitchen garden layout: paths, ponds, beds.

12.6.5 Area 4 Park a) C17 military and other evidence, both earthwork and buried features, and artefacts such as ammunition. This includes boundaries, buildings, routes and enclosures. b) Demesne C18/C19 agricultural tracks and drives. c) Historic construction and surfacing of main drive below the present surface. d) Demesne drainage structures including ponds, culverts and smaller pipes.

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12.6.6 Area 5 Front Avenue drive, Boomhall Lane • Historic construction and surfacing of Front Avenue drive below the present surface.

12.7 MEDIUM/ LOW POTENTIAL This largely relates to lost features where the ground has been considerably disturbed or destroyed by later structures, though it is possible that remains exist, and features which were ephemeral or made little ground disturbance. Aspects include: a) Prehistoric evidence. b) Pre-Plantation (1613) structures associated with management and uses. c) Agricultural features pre-1770: banks, ditches, tracks, structures; most likely in the park (Area 4). d) Demesne features pre-1770: houses, service structures, walls, yards, gardens, routes 12.8 SIGNIFICANCE There are no designated Scheduled Monuments.10 Even so the importance of the archaeological evidence and potential is high in relation to the varied cultural significance of Boom Hall.

The key significance is based on the ensemble of archaeological evidence as an extensive example of multi-period archaeological features arising from human activity for many centuries, reflecting activity in the rural hinterland of Derry City and alongside the River Foyle. The level of preservation and stability of condition, resulting from the continuity of non-invasive and traditional land management, further increases the significance of the ensemble.

The field archaeology demonstrates key aspects, principally related to the C17 military landscape, to the designed landscape phases from 1770 onwards and to World War II uses. This is further understood via documentary evidence. It is likely that considerable evidence remains to be identified which will enhance the knowledge of the occupation of the site in these phases.

Based on the current understanding, the most significant period is the C17 military landscape of the 1649 Civil War and, more significantly, the 1689 Siege of Derry. This is derived from documentary evidence indicating the site of structures and features, and site evidence including finds such as ammunition and weapons, evidence of the presence and influence of French forces, and the putative Boom Stone anchor. There is high potential for further evidence including features marked on the Siege map (Figures 28-30), such as boundaries in the north park, the lines of which persist today.

The evidence for the role in the 1689 Siege identified to date is of local to regional significance. However, the significance increases with its contribution to the associational and cultural significance of Boom Hall demesne because of its key role within a pivotal military action in the war confirming the deposition of the former Stuart King James II and affirming the reign of William III and a new constitution which remains in the United Kingdom, and was influential worldwide. This also heralded the Protestant Ascendancy in Ireland at the expense of the majority Catholic population.

10 This means they are designated and protected as Monuments of Regional Importance to Northern Ireland as a whole by the Historic Environment Division of the Department for Communities.

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Of lesser significance is the evidence of the two other periods for which potential is high: that of a typical wealthy late C18 and C19 villa demesne, and of World War II occupation providing accommodation for up to 120 personnel of the WRNS.

This is based on documentary and site evidence indicating the site of structures and features including: 1. Ornamental landscaping since the late C18: buildings, drives and paths, boundary treatments, horticultural features, trees, watercourses, planting and vistas. 2. The former Alexanders’ house and setting 1690-1770. 3. Kitchen garden and flower garden layout and structures. 4. Water management such as watercourses, culverts, bridges, etc 5. World War II evidence of huts, paths, etc in the environs of the Hall and to the south. Relating to these aspects the individual features range in significance from local to likely regional or even national levels. 12.9 ISSUES 1. Further study of detailed LiDAR coverage omitting tree cover may reveal additional important earthwork features and amplify the understanding of the origins and development, changing the understanding of the archaeological significances. 2. All built features are deteriorating rapidly and require recording and consolidation to prevent their loss. 3. Other features, although relatively stable, are poorly understood and in poor condition. They require recording and analysis to ensure that management activities or uninformed changes do not damage them or key evidence in their immediate environs. 4. Unchecked metal detecting has led to the loss of much evidence, particularly in relation to C17 military activity. 12.10 POLICIES • A1: Wherever possible conserve the archaeological resource in its various forms: as preserved below ground stratified deposits; as visible above ground remains surviving as earthworks, buildings or ruined structures or as landscape features. Where loss is unavoidable, e.g. from agreed development, an appropriate level of archaeological recording must be undertaken before loss. • A2: Protect significant archaeological remains from damage, both surface and underground evidence. • A3: Avoid potentially damaging gardening or agricultural activities on the most sensitive areas, particularly deep digging, excavation or stump removal using mechanical diggers and tree planting. • A4: Intrusive groundworks for pipes, cables, services, tree pits, resurfacing, etc. in sensitive areas of high potential should be the subject of an archaeological watching brief. • A5: Minimise non-investigative excavation in areas of identified high archaeological potential, especially in areas not previously disturbed. 12.11 RECOMMENDATIONS See Section 2.3 for definitions of the Priorities and Timescales.

Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Record rapidly deteriorating features, particularly all structures. High Short 2. When planning works likely to be invasive into archaeological High Ongoing

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deposits and historic fabric consult information in this section to understand areas of various levels of archaeological potential and significance. 3. Obtain expert archaeological advice in advance of works likely to be High Ongoing invasive into archaeological deposits and historic fabric in areas of high potential, particularly in areas of high identified potential and for works disturbing the top 50-100 cm of soil. 4. Minimise non-investigative excavation in areas of significant High Ongoing identified archaeological potential, especially in undisturbed areas. 5. In areas of high potential avoid potentially damaging forestry, High Ongoing gardening, agricultural or building activities particularly ground disturbance, stump removal, tree planting, and removal of historic structural fabric.

12.12 APPROPRIATE INVESTIGATION TECHNIQUES Various archaeological techniques will be appropriate for particular situations. For example there is the potential to map from detailed field survey earthworks. Geophysics surveys of gardens and pleasure grounds might help to find buried features such as early walls and garden buildings, path structures, flowerbeds, drains and pipes. Detailed study of LiDAR of the estate could be revealing of subtle but important evidence. This is a technique of micro-levelling using airborne radar which can reveal very slight features even in woodland and on arable land. Otherwise carefully targeted excavation is likely to prove the most effective and informative technique for identifying the exact location of features and further details of their layout and materials used, together with the location of other features such as planting pits. The best, least destructive excavational method would utilise trial trenches to locate features suggested by map sources, rather than undertaking the complete clearance of the upper layers. Monitor work involving service trenches for foundations, pipes, cables, etc., in case information on garden features in plan or section is forthcoming.

Figure 27 The line of the Boom in the early C21 (B. O’Donnell). The viewer faces north-east from the former Boom Hall demesne, now below the Foyle Bridge, to Gransha demesne. Sections of wall survive on the riverside.

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13 GAPS IN KNOWLEDGE & FURTHER WORK REQUIRED

13.1 GAPS IN KNOWLEDGE

13.1.1 Documentation • There is no comprehensive and clearly catalogued copy archive of historic landscape documentary evidence (including maps & images) and later information available for staff and researchers to consult in a single place at the property on a day-to-day basis in hard copy to inform management decisions. This includes the PRONI catalogue.

13.1.2 Understanding of the Historic Landscape The following aspects are poorly understood and require further research and site survey: • Survival, age and phasing of significant woody specimens and their management. • The understanding of the historic planting palette and its detailed use in various areas. • Pre-Plantation (1613) landscape layout and management, possibly monastic connections. • Location of C17 military fortifications. • Location of original Boom Hall and designed landscape. • The original ornamental structure and setting of King James’s Well. • Lost demesne structures including fence styles, path location and construction, kitchen garden glasshouses and sheds. • World War II interventions: structures and changes in landform.

13.1.3 Buildings and Sculpture The following aspects are poorly understood and require further research and site survey: • Lost buildings including their positions which are not precisely identified on the ground.

13.1.4 Topographical/Archaeological Evidence The following aspects are poorly understood and require further research and site survey: • The extent and significance of archaeological features.

13.1.5 Management Information • There is no comprehensive current condition survey of all the demesne structures other than for the house, stables and garden walls by ACA. • There is no study-area-wide survey of historically significant trees to understand species distribution, historic phasing, design aspects, distribution and survival. This would inform a replanting policy and scheme. • Archaeological features are incompletely recorded. • While key historic views have been broadly mapped in Section 7, Views, the detail of these views should be mapped on large scale plans to inform monitoring and management on site.

13.1.6 Wildlife Evidence • A systematic site-wide understanding of the wildlife population, habitats and their trajectory is absent. This is essential to understand a key element of the demesne which also has legal implications, and to inform habitat management integrated with the historic environment to

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perpetuate the key significances of each. • A detailed understanding of the key veteran tree population is absent including in woodland.

13.1.7 Historic Environment Designations • This study has highlighted the significance to the ornamental design of areas excluded from the Registered area, particularly the Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane and its important listed gateway. This may qualify for inclusion within the Registered site. • Several mature sycamores that were part of the Front Avenue planting do not have TPOs. They stand behind the wing walls framing the view from Culmore Road and are as important as the avenue trees. • This study has highlighted the architectural or other historic significance of various unlisted buildings that may well qualify for Listing. These include the Hall, and kitchen garden and yard walls. They are of significance both for their individual architectural merit and as a high quality group of structures for an C18 villa demesne.

13.1.8 Conservation Trajectory • The trajectory of the condition and quality of the historic and natural environments is not well understood. Monitoring regularly would ensure that prescriptions are relevant, achievable and appropriate and that these trajectories do not drop. 13.2 FURTHER WORK REQUIRED The following recommendations represent best practice in terms of the conservation of the historic and natural environments within the study area. It is recognised that they may not all practically be achievable at present.

13.2.1 Historic Documentation Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Assemble and collate an easily available and searchable Medium Short/ research list and archive of research and management ongoing documents for the historic designed landscape kept at the property. 2. Assemble an easily available and searchable copy archive for Medium Medium/ the historic designed landscape which is continuously updated ongoing to respond to newly found material. Of particular importance are high quality copies of images and maps which should be easily available on site for site managers. With it maintain a record of restoration and significant alterations and management activities. This should be both in digital and paper forms and include key documents.

13.2.2 Understanding of the Historic Landscape Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Undertake further studies of areas and aspects whose origin High Medium and design are poorly understood particularly those outlined in Gaps In Knowledge above, particularly the watercourses and

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planting. 2. Carry out further research at PRONI and The National Archive, Medium Medium Kew to identify further information about interventions in World War II particularly structures, paths, etc

13.2.3 Buildings & Structures 1. Undertake further studies of structures whose origin and design High Short are poorly understood including the garden walls, ha-ha, riverside wall, King James’s Well and the stream bridges, and Culmore Road gateway to Front Avenue.

13.2.4 Topographical/Archaeological Evidence Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Carry out detailed archaeological site survey and mapping to High Medium understand the significance of surviving evidence and potential for further evidence and create a comprehensive Archaeological Survey for Boom Hall. 2. Survey all significant historic woody planting to identify historic High Short phasing, species distribution, etc. to inform a detailed replanting plan.

13.2.5 Management Information Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Survey the condition of historic structures without such High Short surveys to produce a prioritised schedule of works and an inspection and maintenance schedule. 2. Survey the circulation network (paths and drives) to establish High Short its survival and condition and produce a prioritised schedule of works and an inspection and maintenance schedule. 3. Undertake a study-area-wide survey of historically significant High Medium trees to understand species distribution, phasing, design aspects, distribution and survival. This would inform a replanting policy and scheme. 4. Map and prioritise key views in detail on current OS base plan, Medium Medium including the core designed landscape but also the widest- ranging views. Identify essential estate planting related to this and particular views vulnerable to insensitive change. 5. Record fully the archaeological features on the HER. Medium Short 6. Devise a suite of indicators for monitoring the condition and Medium Medium trajectory of the historic environment to inform monitoring and management programmes.

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13.2.6 Wildlife Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Carry out a Habitat Survey and identify Priority Habitats. A more High Medium detailed survey would be helpful if conditions allow. 2. Commission a study-area-wide survey of veteran trees to High Medium inform an understanding of the population, its significance and a long term management programme from a competent person using the Specialist Survey Method for veteran trees. 3. Commission specialist surveys into bat roosts and breeding Medium Medium birds, to understand the full extent of their use of the site and guide long term management of trees and buildings. 4. Commission specialist surveys into other legally protected Medium Medium species for management purposes, particularly to inform long term conservation and management, prioritising badgers. 5. Devise a suite of indicators for monitoring the condition and Medium Long trajectory of key habitats and draw up monitoring and management programmes accordingly ensuring that key aspects of the historic environment are not damaged.

13.2.7 Historic Environment Designations Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Request that DfC HED reviews the architectural or other historic High Short significance of various unlisted buildings that may well qualify for listing, particularly the Hall, garden walls and yard walls. 2. Designate with TPOs the sycamore specimens at the Front Medium Medium Avenue entrance on Culmore Road standing behind the stone walls which form part of the main avenue planting. 3. Request that DfC HED reviews the Registered boundary to Medium Medium include the Front Avenue in Boomhall Lane and gateway (Listed).

13.2.8 Review of This Plan Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Review the achievement of recommendations in this plan every High Short 2 years and appraise the conservation trajectory. 2. Revise the plan every five years. High Medium

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STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE

14 HISTORIC SIGNIFICANCE

14.1 INTRODUCTION This section is divided into two addressing various aspects of the historic environment: a) an overview of the significance of the landscape in the wider context and b) assessment of the significance of individual features to the landscape design. 14.1 HISTORIC SIGNIFICANCE IN THE WIDER CONTEXT The significances are based on the analysis earlier in the report and are addressed in greater depth in those sections.

The assessment is derived from the methodology in the Assessment of Cultural Significance section in JS Kerr, the Conservation Plan (7th edn). It is modified to this particular site to reflect the overall significances of the varied key thematic aspects, drawing on the analysis above.

Level of Significance beyond Boom Hall: A Exceptional i.e. national/international (Ireland and beyond) Aspects which are of national and international significance within broad thematic contexts, or have a particular significance through personal association or significantly enhancing our understanding of a particular historic function or purpose.

B Considerable i.e. regional (Northern Ireland) Aspects which are of regional significance within broad thematic contexts.

C Some/Moderate i.e. local (County Londonderry and surroundings) Aspects which are of local significance.

D Little/Neutral Aspects which have little or no significance in promoting understanding or appreciation, without being intrusive or damaging.

E Intrusive/damaging Aspects which are visually intrusive, damage the historic character or fabric or which obscure understanding of significant elements of the property.

While the study area only forms part of the whole designed landscape it has been assessed below as part of the whole design, except where explicitly stated.

Overall Landscape Design The ornamental design is of regional historic interest (as recognized by inclusion on the Northern B Ireland Register of Historic Gardens and Parks) as the demesne for a villa which is an accretion of features from successive phases building on the vision established in the 1770s when the villa was constructed, consolidated by the mid-C19 and completed by 1904. This is one of the most important surviving merchant demesnes in the environs of Derry, the key B

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features of which survive intact, its design integral with the villa and other C18/C19 structures, and little altered since c.1900, although subject to considerable loss of parkland and decay of planting and structures. The loss of one third of the demesne to irreversible changes has damaged the entirety of the Int design and provided a new and alien setting, compromising the remoteness and tranquility. However, it did not destroy key aspects of the significance nor the most important elements of the setting, to the north and east. The formerly remote and secluded riverside position is of the highest importance and B demonstrates key design approaches of quality & complexity: the long and dramatic views linking the house, garden, and park with the river and the countryside and demesnes beyond. The demesne forms part of a rare ensemble of similar merchants’ demesnes along the River A Foyle, with the contiguous Brook Hall, Thorn Hill and Ballynagard, and more widely Enagh and the former Gransha demesnes east of the river, and Belmont nearby to the west. This is comparable with similar groups of high quality Irish riverside villa demesnes including the River Boyne north-west of Dublin from Navan to Slane; the River Liffey from the Phoenix Park to Celbridge; along the south shore of the Shannon estuary west of Limerick; on the high banks of the River Lee west of Cork into Cork Harbour; along the River Blackwater in Cork. The demesne design included surviving elements of the C17 military landscape, particularly the A views, topography, features such as King James’s Well and the ‘Boom Stone’ and the river and demesne setting. This was redolent of the momentous event of the breaking of the boom and the subsequent long term political and social effects. Architecture & Structures Architecturally the most important structures are the C18 ensemble of the Hall, stable block and B garden walls, typical of such villa demesnes. They are probably by the same hand. Their significance is enhanced by their origin as a group. Only the stable block is Listed; the design of the Hall is of comparable or even higher quality, but the significance is compromised by the ruinous condition because of the loss of substantial amounts of the historic fabric. The Hall is a gentry country villa forming the focus of the designed landscape. The architect is B unclear but could be the local Michael Priestley or, less likely, the renowned English designer Sir Robert Taylor. It could also have been the design of a local builder copying other models, given the rather crude detailing in places. The very poor condition damages the architectural significance because of the loss of substantial amounts of the historic fabric. The stable block and yards form a typical ensemble of service structures, the stables being of the B highest architectural merit (Listed), and ornamented in a variety of styles to a considerable

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degree but making minor contributions to the landscape design. The kitchen garden walls are of typical construction for a high quality demesne, using local stone B for much of the exterior and more expensive brick for the interior facing. The south wall and south-east curve are entirely brick. Unusually parts of the farmyard and stable block walls form part of the enclosure. Two sections are missing and the surviving structure is in poor condition. The walls are not listed but may be of sufficient quality if they were in good repair. Other architectural contributions to the landscape design are important to the Boom Hall C landscape design, particularly the Front Avenue gateway (Listed) and King James’s Well, but are less significant more widely. The Designed Landscape The incremental design of phases from the 1770s, completed by the early C20, successively B enhanced the vision of the earliest designer in this particular villa demesne character. The climactic phase was the mid-C19 consolidation and extension of the late C18 layout as B established by successive owners, with final features (principally the sycamore avenues) sensitively fitted into the framework in similar character, completing the layout by the early C20. The collection of various high quality features (flower garden and ha-ha, lawns, shrubberies, B walled productive gardens, riverside walks, King James’s Well) is of the highest importance as a display of wealth, taste and social status and is part of the whole vision for the estate. The mid-late C19 garden displays represented the typical taste of the period and social milieu, C but have been lost. The park is typical of a high quality villa demesne but has been considerably reduced as only 2/3 C of the area survives. The Kitchen Garden and Slip Garden /orchard layout formed a typical productive element of the C country house garden and estate but survive in ruinous state and are uncultivated. The environs of the service area, focussed on the stable yard, formed a typical estate group of C buildings, but were not key features in the landscape design. They survive in ruinous state. Views & Setting The most important designed views are eastwards from the Hall, park, and riverside slopes over A the river beyond demesnes and agricultural land to the distant mountains. The manipulation of the views emphasizes the contrasts between the demesne and the distant and rural wider setting. They are fundamental to the design and its high quality, forming a strong element of the unity of the group of riverside demesnes and survive intact. Though the late C20 Foyle Bridge has intruded, its soaring form has not damaged these views. The setting survives partially intact having lost the adjacent demesne to the south, The Farm, B

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and smaller demesnes to the west, to the development of extensive residential estates and the Culmore Road. The other half of the setting survives largely intact. This was the more important part of the setting: to the north-east the string of riverside demesnes, and east the river and demesnes and mountains beyond. Plants and Horticulture The significance of the planting arises mainly from the variety of types of features established by C the early C20. Thus the most significant planting period is that established by c.1900. It was typical of the period for similar scale merchant and gentry villas. This has been damaged by the loss of all ephemeral horticultural aspects but these could be reinstated or evoked. The woody planting forms the framework that clothes the demesne. It is an extensive collection B of typical demesne trees representing several periods of planting, including pre-demesne specimens. The significance to Boom Hall increases because so little ephemeral planting survives and documentary evidence is scarce. Several large C17 and C18 trees include a line of 4 large oak pollards south of the Hall, two A pollards in the Grove, and a sweet chestnut north of the Hall. Other early specimens may survive. These genetic forms are particular to this site and significant as a collection of early forms and examples of historic management regimes. Documentary and Site-Based Evidence The understanding of the designed landscape is based on very limited documentary evidence, C site survey and surviving site evidence. There is it seems no archival material that details the landscape development directly. Archaeological The identified archaeology is of local to regional significance. B-C The most important archaeological features relate to the C17 military activities, the C18-C19 B demesne and the World War II occupation. The whole area has high potential for C17 military evidence although evidence of major features B seen on the c.1690 Siege maps has it seems been lost with later interventions. The whole area has high potential for lost and relict features related to the 1770s merchant villa B and landscape with alterations continuing into the C20, forming part of the surviving group of important Derry villa demesnes. There has been little intervention since so evidence is likely to be well preserved. The area particularly around the Hall has high potential for World War II evidence although some B disturbance occurred with the removal of the huts. This significance is increased as the base formed part of a locally extensive and important naval base serving the Atlantic theatre of war.

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Other identified periods of activity are of lesser significance and potential, including prehistoric, C medieval, pre-Plantation (1500-1613), Plantation (1613-90); the early demesne (1690-1770). Communal and Cultural The site played a key role within a pivotal military action in the Williamite War in Ireland (1689- A 91) which confirmed the deposition of the former Stuart King James II and secured the reign of William III and Queen Mary and a new constitution. This constitution endures in the United Kingdom and was influential in the creation of constitutions worldwide, particularly the Bill of Rights. At least two recognizable landscape features were incorporated in the demesne design: King James’s Well and the putative ‘Boom Stone’. Thus the site played a key role in the conflict which heralded a major shift in the political and A social balance of Ireland with the rise of the Protestant Ascendancy at the expense of the majority Catholic population for over two centuries. The military history of the site made it the focus of Protestant Derry cultural heritage, particularly B the north part of the park which was owned by the Orange Order and used for parades in the mid-C20 until 1969. More widely the site represents aspects of the history of Derry and Northern Ireland, for all to A understand better its role in both Catholic and Protestant communities, promoting equality and respect for the identity and ethos of both main communities and their related traditions in Northern Ireland.

14.2 SIGNIFICANCE OF KEY FEATURES TO HISTORIC LANDSCAPE DESIGN Within the landscape it is useful to understand the relative importance of features to this specific site in order to prioritise conservation and understand the effects of proposed changes. This section identifies the main surviving features from all periods and assigns relative levels of importance within the following categories:

A Exceptional significance: Fundamental to the design concept or to historic interest of demesne. B Considerable significance: Essential parts or elements specific to the vocabulary of the design. C Some significance: of historic interest; contributes to design complexity. D Little significance or neutral. E Damages the historic character.

A Exceptional significance Boom Hall (Area 1) Kitchen garden walls (Area 3) Main drive, historic south-east half (Areas 1 & 4) Pleasure grounds (Area 1) Trees: C18 and earlier (all areas) Forecourt (Area 1) The Grove (Area 1) Flower garden (Area 3) Historic Setting including demesnes and River Foyle King James’s Well (Area 2)

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‘Boom Stone’ (if confirmed as such) (Area 2)

B Considerable significance

Stable buildings/ spaces (Area 3) Yard walls (Area 3) The Park (Area 4): areas which are visible from the Relict features and evidence associated with main drive, The Grove and East Slopes former military uses (throughout). Kitchen garden layout (Area 3) Trees & shrubs: C19 & early C20 (all areas) Stream ravine and bridge(s) (Area 2) River shore and riverside wall (Area 2) East Slopes (Area 2) Flower garden ha-ha (Area 3) Front Avenue drive in Boomhall Lane (Area 5)

C Some significance

The Park (Area 4): areas which are not visible from Slip Garden /Orchard (Area 3) main drive, The Grove and East Slopes Yard interiors (Area 3) Relict features and evidence associated with former agricultural and demesne uses.

D Little significance or neutral

Main drive, recent north-west half (Area 4) Views of Foyle Bridge (in demesne setting)

E Damaging

Bungalow in farm yard (Area 3) Cycle path (Area 1) Self-sown vegetation (all areas) Modern fencing (all areas) Views of modern road embankments, structures, hospice (setting)

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RECOMMENDATIONS: THEMATIC AND CHARACTER AREAS

15 THEMATIC RECOMMENDATIONS These recommendations are repeated from the individual sections above so that they can be reviewed all together as a group 15.1 PRIORITIES AND TIMESCALE FOR RECOMMENDATIONS These recommendation definitions are the same as those in Section 2.3 and are repeated here for convenience. They are prioritised taking into account issues relating to the conservation of the historic environment on the scale of: Priority: Highest (urgent) High Medium Low The priorities have been assigned based on several factors assessed alongside each other: • the relative levels of significance of the features and their longevity in the design, and their contribution to the key periods of the historic design • level of vulnerability of extant features to deterioration and urgency of the need to act to prevent loss • the effect that restoring or reinstating lost features will have on enhancing key areas of the historic environment and re-establishing significance These priorities in turn have been assessed as requiring attention within a particular urgency, on the timescale of: • Ongoing • Short (within 2 years) • Medium (2-5 years) • Long term (5-10 years)

15.2 STRUCTURES (FROM SECTION 6) Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Implement a regular inspection and maintenance programme for High Short structures including for their immediate setting. 2. In addition to the studies conducted as part of the Conservation High Short Management Plan by ACA, commission (where applicable) further detailed studies of the fabric and historic significance of all historic structures (both standing and ruined), including archaeological character and wildlife habitats, as necessary to inform significant changes and site work. 3. Undertake thorough condition surveys for all historic structures, High Short and based on these draw up long term conservation, security

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and maintenance policies and implement associated programmes of repair and maintenance. 4. Consolidate landscape structures which are deteriorating in situ High Short particularly garden and yard walls. 5. Remove where possible or mitigate the physical and visual High Long damage and appearance of structures introduced in the C20/C21, e.g. the bungalow. 6. As the need arises, ensure that all buildings are adequately High Medium understood in respect of their use as wildlife habitats with particular respect to legally protected species. Adapt long term maintenance and repair schedules to reflect the obligations arising from the findings and to minimise damage to the historic environment. 7. Audit historic boundary treatments to understand the variety, Low Long origin, significance of style and position, and survival of different forms to identify the extent of loss and historically inappropriate styles/materials. Draw up a reinstatement programme. 8. Implement the reinstatement programme for historic boundary Medium Ongoing treatments as replacements become necessary.

15.3 VIEWS (FROM SECTION 7)

Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Monitor planning applications for areas of the demesne High Ongoing outside council ownership which affect key views and the historic significance and character identified above. Resist or advise on measures to mitigate the effects. Use justifications in this plan to inform responses to inappropriate changes. 2. Restore key views via removal of encroaching vegetation and Low Long replanting of the historic layout of trees and shrubs. Prioritise views relating to the Hall, flower garden and east slopes. 3. Remove dead fallen wood and standing specimens from key Low Long historic views, particularly environs of the Hall, the pleasure grounds and slopes, flower garden and main drive. If necessary for habitat purposes relocate dead wood to areas which are not visible from these features. 4. Implement a programme to remove, or if this is not possible, Low Long mitigate the appearance of, C20/C21 intrusions into key

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historic views. Prioritise the effect of roads and the bungalow within the demesne. Mitigate via planting using historically appropriate species. 5. Devise and implement a schedule to inspect and maintain key Low Ongoing views regularly. Prioritise views relating to the Hall, flower garden and east slopes. 15.4 SETTING (FROM SECTION 8)

Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Monitor planning applications which affect key views and High Ongoing essential aspects of the setting. Resist or advise on measures to mitigate the effects. Use justifications presented in this plan to underpin responses to inappropriate changes. 2. Establish a liaison group with managers of other demesnes High Medium of high significance to the setting of Boom Hall to discuss and influence potential change that affects the historic setting. 3. Prepare a setting study to identify in detail key areas of the Medium Long setting which are vulnerable to inappropriate development and the types of development which may be particularly damaging. 15.5 HORTICULTURE (FROM SECTION 9) Recommendations Priority Timescale 1. Audit and map the survival of horticultural features including Medium Medium planting, paths, bed outlines, terraces. 2. Draw up a programme to reinstate lawns and evoke ornamental Medium Medium horticultural displays based on site evidence and contextual sources. Prioritise significantly visible areas e.g. around the Hall and the flower garden. 15.6 TREES (FROM SECTION 10)

Recommendation Priority Timescale

1. Survey trees to establish age and species and the High Short detailed pattern of distribution. Distinguish significant historic specimens from those which damage the historic design. 2. Identify remedial works required to prolong the life of specimens of the highest historic significance and High Short implement a long term programme of works. 3. Clear invasive &/or self-set scrub or woodland particularly areas which obscure key views. High Medium-

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Long

4. Draw up and implement a phased replanting plan High Medium- reflecting historic species and their distribution in Long particular areas based on the 1904 OS. 5. Ensure staff are fully trained in the correct planting, aftercare and maintenance of young trees to ensure High Ongoing their survival to maturity as viable landscape trees. 6. Implement a dead-wood policy to ensure that the historic ornamental character seen from key viewpoints Medium Medium including the Hall, main drive and pleasure grounds is not damaged. Remove standing specimens and fallen wood visible from these features and relocate to areas of low visbility. 15.7 LAND MANAGEMENT (FROM SECTION 11)

15.7.1 Boundaries and Divisions of the Park Recommendations Priority Timescale 3. Audit fence lines, styles and materials to identify aspects which are Medium Medium not historically appropriate. Reinstate historic positions, styles and materials. Prioritise stretches in significantly visible areas e.g. seen from the Hall, drive and pleasure grounds. 4. Rationalise as far as possible internal fence lines, minimizing them Medium Medium to reinstate the early C20 pattern of enclosures, while accommodating practicalities of C21 management.

15.7.2 Sward and Routes Recommendations Priority Timescale 6. Eradicate invasive/ noxious weeds: ragwort and knotweed. High Short 7. Improve the management of the park sward by reinstating Medium Long/ traditional management methods based on sustainable grazing. ongoing 8. Reinstate the appearance of the drive to evoke the high quality Medium Medium- early C20 character as bound gravel surfacing. Long 9. Reinstate paths based on the mid-C19 OS layout to provide visitor routes from the Hall down to the riverside. 10. Remove C20 structures in the park, as far as circumstances allow. Low Medium

15.7.3 Watercourses Recommendations Priority Timescale 5. Survey the riverside wall to establish its extent and condition and High Short inform a sustainable stabilisation programme. 6. Survey the stream, culvert and ravine to establish the function, form Medium Medium

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and condition of structures and inform a repair programme. 7. Investigate the park drainage system to establish the function, Medium Medium structure and condition and inform a repair programme. 8. Survey the condition of the river bank and vegetation; implement Medium Medium remedial works to prevent damaging flooding/ erosion. 15.8 ARCHAEOLOGY (FROM SECTION 12)

Recommendation Priority Timescale 1. Record rapidly deteriorating features, particularly all structures. High Short 2. When planning works likely to be invasive into archaeological High Ongoing deposits and historic fabric consult information in this section to understand areas of various levels of archaeological potential and significance. 3. Obtain expert archaeological advice in advance of works likely to be High Ongoing invasive into archaeological deposits and historic fabric in areas of high potential, particularly in areas of high identified potential and for works disturbing the top 50-100 cm of soil. 4. Minimise non-investigative excavation in areas of significant High Ongoing identified archaeological potential, especially in undisturbed areas. 5. In areas of high potential avoid potentially damaging forestry, High Ongoing gardening, agricultural or building activities particularly ground disturbance, stump removal, tree planting, and removal of historic structural fabric.

15.9 FURTHER WORK (FROM SECTION 13)

15.9.1 Historic Documentation Recommendation Priority Timescale 3. Assemble and collate an easily available and searchable research list Medium Short/ and archive of research and management documents for the historic ongoing designed landscape kept at the property. 4. Assemble an easily available and searchable copy archive for the Medium Medium/ historic designed landscape which is continuously updated to respond ongoing to newly found material. Of particular importance are high quality copies of images and maps which should be easily available on site for site managers. With it maintain a record of restoration and significant alterations and management activities. This should be both in digital and paper forms and include key documents.

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15.9.2 Understanding of the Historic Landscape Recommendation Priority Timescale 3. Undertake further studies of areas and aspects whose origin and High Medium design are poorly understood particularly those outlined in Gaps In Knowledge above, particularly the watercourses and planting. 4. Carry out further research at PRONI and The National Archive, Medi Medium Kew to identify further information about interventions in World um War II particularly structures, paths, etc

15.9.3 Buildings & Structures 2. Undertake further studies of structures whose origin and design High Short are poorly understood including the garden walls, ha-ha, riverside wall, King James’s Well and the stream bridges, and Culmore Road gateway to Front Avenue.

15.9.4 Topographical/Archaeological Evidence Recommendation Priority Timescale 3. Carry out detailed archaeological site survey and mapping to High Medium understand the significance of surviving evidence and potential for further evidence and create a comprehensive Archaeological Survey for Boom Hall. 4. Survey all significant historic woody planting to identify historic High Short phasing, species distribution, etc. to inform a detailed replanting plan.

15.9.5 Management Information Recommendation Priority Timescale 7. Survey the condition of historic structures without such surveys to High Short produce a prioritised schedule of works and an inspection and maintenance schedule. 8. Survey the circulation network (paths and drives) to establish its High Short survival and condition and produce a prioritised schedule of works and an inspection and maintenance schedule. 9. Undertake a study-area-wide survey of historically significant trees High Medium to understand species distribution, phasing, design aspects, distribution and survival. This would inform a replanting policy and scheme. 10. Map and prioritise key views in detail on current OS base plan, Medium Medium including the core designed landscape but also the widest-ranging views. Identify essential estate planting related to this and particular views vulnerable to insensitive change. 11. Record fully the archaeological features on the HER. Medium Short 12. Devise a suite of indicators for monitoring the condition and Medium Medium trajectory of the historic environment to inform monitoring and

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management programmes.

15.9.6 Wildlife Recommendation Priority Timescale 6. Carry out a Habitat Survey and identify Priority Habitats. A more High Medium detailed survey would be helpful if conditions allow. 7. Commission a study-area-wide survey of veteran trees to High Medium inform an understanding of the population, its significance and a long term management programme from a competent person using the Specialist Survey Method for veteran trees. 8. Commission specialist surveys into bat roosts and breeding Medium Medium birds, to understand the full extent of their use of the site and guide long term management of trees and buildings. 9. Commission specialist surveys into other legally protected Medium Medium species for management purposes, particularly to inform long term conservation and management, prioritising badgers. 10. Devise a suite of indicators for monitoring the condition and Medium Long trajectory of key habitats and draw up monitoring and management programmes accordingly ensuring that key aspects of the historic environment are not damaged.

15.9.7 Historic Environment Designations Recommendation Priority Timescale 4. Request that DfC HED reviews the architectural or other historic High Short significance of various unlisted buildings that may well qualify for listing, particularly the Hall, garden walls and yard walls. 5. Designate with TPOs the sycamore specimens at the Front Medium Medium Avenue entrance on Culmore Road standing behind the stone walls which form part of the main avenue planting. 6. Request that DfC HED reviews the Registered boundary to Medium Medium include the Front Avenue in Boomhall Lane and gateway (Listed).

15.9.8 Review of This Plan Recommendation Priority Timescale 3. Review the achievement of recommendations in this plan every High Short 2 years and appraise the conservation trajectory. 4. Revise the plan every five years. High Medium

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16 SUMMARY OF KEY ISSUES AND CONDITION IN CHARACTER AREAS

Thematic Overall Area 1 Area 2 Area 3 Area 4 Area 5 Subject Pleasure Grounds Riverside Slopes Kitchen garden, Slip Park Front Avenue drive around Hall garden, flower Boomhall Lane garden, yards Buildings/ Most of the lesser buildings have gone Hall ruinous. It is the King James’s Well Garden wall, ha-ha Modern bungalow and Lodge gone. Listed structures (lodges, glasshouses). focus of the derelict. ‘Boom wall, stables, yard garden walls damage stone gateway and See Section 6 Ensemble of principal buildings (Hall, stables, demesne; condition Stone’ abandoned walls in poor historic character & walls in poor kitchen garden wall) in very poor condition. damages historic and vulnerable. River condition or ruinous, fabric and views from condition, Only 1 damaging major new structure, views and character. wall largely gone. damaging fabric, main drive and park. deteriorating & in bungalow. Not Listed but should Bridge(s) condition views, character. divided ownership. Significance as wildlife habitats unclear. be considered for unclear. Walls should be this. listed. Views Views north, west and south-west are Views around the Some views east Flower garden view Views north, west and Views over park See Section 7 damaged by new roads and the hospice, but Hall blocked by blocked by SE beyond ha-ha south-west damaged gone. Irreversible. these can be mitigated by planting. vegetation. Main unchecked blocked by by new roads and the Gateway still part The most important view, eastwards over the view east could be vegetation. unchecked hospice. of Culmore Road river, could be reinstated. restored. vegetation. scene. Setting The setting to the north, south and west is Setting to the south - - Setting to north, south Immediate park See Section 8 compromised by C20 development of roads compromised by and west compromised setting lost to and residential areas. Madam’s Bank Road by C20 development of mixed development Nearby villas to south and west have largely embankment and roads, hospice & and Madam’s Bank gone. Of these The Farm to the south was the structures. Damages residential. Damages Road. most important to Boom Hall. tranquility. tranquility. Horticulture The horticultural character of the kitchen and All horticultural - All horticultural - - See Section 9 flower garden displays has gone but could be character lost to character lost to evoked. Detail of planting palette unclear. dereliction. dereliction. Trees Some losses since early C20 zenith. Losses can Many self-sown Some self-sown Historic specimens in Some losses especially A few losses. See be identified by comparing current survey specimens and scrub specimens and scrub flower garden gone. in the outer parkland Some specimens in

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Thematic Overall Area 1 Area 2 Area 3 Area 4 Area 5 Subject Pleasure Grounds Riverside Slopes Kitchen garden, Slip Park Front Avenue drive around Hall garden, flower Boomhall Lane garden, yards Section 10 with 1904 OS. between the between the and main drive avenue. divided ownership. Full palette of species used then not clear. historically significant historically significant Damage by livestock. Specimens behind More extensive than survives. specimens. Some are specimens. Some in gateway not TPOed Self-sown specimens and scrub blurring the in poor condition poor condition; some like the rest of the historic pattern. with some losses. losses. avenue but should Some trees require remedial work to prolong Damage by be. life. livestock. Significance as wildlife habitats unclear. Land The outer farmland to the north, west and Management Survives as grazed Management altered Survives as grazed - Management south-west has gone. abandoned. Overrun sward for wood to grazing which has sward for wood See Surviving farmland remains grazed but is with scrub. pasture but poorly kept the areas largely pasture, but poorly Section 11 poorly managed. managed. Invasive open and scrub at managed. The park culvert has failed indicating drainage weeds, scrub bay. Invasive weeds, scrub problems park-wide. encroaching. encroaching. The historic land management regime has Condition of ravine Culvert collapsed. been little compromised e.g. by car parks & unclear. additional buildings, & could be reinstated. Significance as wildlife habitats unclear. Boundaries Demesne boundaries to north, north-west Pleasure ground The Foyle wall Kitchen garden and Fences poor quality & - See and south-west have gone. fence gone. survives only in ha-ha walls partially not in historical style Section 11 The most important boundary, to the east fragments and those lost and the rest around the outer against the Foyle, survives well. are in poor condition in poor condition. boundary, and No historically appropriate fencing survives. and vulnerable to Boundary fence of internally particularly Garden and yard walls in poor condition. further damage by the Slip Garden has by the main drive. flooding. gone. Modern fences are in Modern fences are in poor condition. They poor condition. They

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Thematic Overall Area 1 Area 2 Area 3 Area 4 Area 5 Subject Pleasure Grounds Riverside Slopes Kitchen garden, Slip Park Front Avenue drive around Hall garden, flower Boomhall Lane garden, yards do not follow historic do not follow historic precedent in terms of precedent in terms of line and line and materials/style. materials/style. Circulation Front Avenue, formerly the main drive, Paths gone. New Paths gone losing Paths gone, losing West end of main drive Front Avenue cut See severed from park and Hall. cycle path does not connection from Hall the distinctive replaced but along an off from Hall. Section 11 Main drive surfacing tarmac not gravel effect. follow historic route. to riverside. definition of the appropriate new line. Surfacing not Garden paths gone but evidence may survive design of each area. Surfacing not historically under grass. historically appropriate. appropriate. 17 CHARACTER AREA RECOMMENDATIONS

17.1 INTRODUCTION These recommendations respond directly to the issues set out in Section 15, guided by the Vision and General Conservation Policies in Section 1 and by the understanding of the thematic aspects most relevant to the designed landscape as set out in Sections 6-11.

17.2 AREA 1 PLEASURE GROUNDS AROUND HALL Thematic Subject Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale Buildings/ structures Hall ruinous. Repair the Hall. Highest Short See Section 6 Not Listed. Request DfE appraise the Hall for listing Highest Short Views. See Section 7 Views around the Hall blocked by Restore the main view east. Low Long vegetation. Setting Setting to the south compromised by Screen with vegetation. Low Long See Section 8 Madam’s Bank Road embankment and

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Thematic Subject Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale structures. Horticulture All horticultural character lost to Evoke the horticultural character via the combination of lawns and Medium Medium-Long See Section 9 dereliction. shrubbery as established by c.1900 and shown on 1904 OS. Trees Many self-sown specimens and scrub Carry out remedial works to the historic specimens to prolong life. High Short See Section 10 between the historically significant Remove self-sown specimens and scrub. Medium Medium specimens. Some are in poor condition Plant additional ornamental specimens to succeed historic ones, based Medium Long with some losses. on existing palette. Land Management Management abandoned. Overrun with See above, Horticulture and Trees. See Section 11 scrub. Boundaries Pleasure ground fence gone. Reinstate fence on historic line, style based on surviving stretch near Low Long See Section 11 Hall. Modern fences are in poor condition. They do not follow historic precedent in Reinstate fencelines using historic materials as far as possible or High Short terms of line and materials/style. modern materials/styles that complement the historic character. Circulation Paths and forecourt gone. New cycle Reinstate paths and forecourt using 1904 OS. Be guided by type of Medium Long See Section 11 path does not follow historic route. surfacing at other comparable demesnes if archaeological investigation does not indicate type of surface used. Ensure this matches with surfacing of main drive. Mitigate appearance of cycle path by resurfacing with materials based Medium Long on historic precedent (gravel appearance) when it is next required.

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17.3 AREA 2 RIVERSIDE SLOPES Thematic Subject Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale Buildings/ structures King James’s Well derelict. Stabilise structures to prevent further deterioration. High Short See Section 6 Reinstate to historic appearance after further research. Medium Long ‘Boom Stone’ abandoned and vulnerable. Prevent damage/theft and present as a feature of the High Short landscape. River wall largely gone. Stabilise wall to prevent further deterioration. High Short Stabilise structures to prevent further deterioration. High Short Bridge(s) condition unclear. Reinstate to historic appearance after further research. Medium Long Views Some views east blocked by unchecked vegetation. Restore the main view east. Low Long See Section 7 Setting - - See Section 8 Horticulture - - See Section 9 Trees Some self-sown specimens and scrub between the Carry out remedial works to the historic specimens to High Short See historically significant specimens. Some in poor prolong life. Section 10 condition; some losses. Remove self-sown specimens and scrub. Medium Medium Plant additional ornamental specimens to succeed historic High Long ones, based on existing palette. Damage by livestock. Put in place measures to protect from compaction of High Short surrounding ground and damage to the structure, particularly trunks. Land Management Survives as grazed sward for wood pasture but Improve management of grazed sward, eradicate invasive High Medium See Section 11 poorly managed. Invasive weeds, scrub weeds and scrub and ensure damage is minimised by encroaching. livestock. Condition of ravine unclear. Medium Medium Survey ravine and vegetation to understand significance and establish management programme. Boundaries The Foyle wall survives only in fragments and those Stablise sections to minimise further damage from flooding. High Medium See Section 11 are in poor condition and vulnerable to further

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Thematic Subject Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale damage by flooding. Modern fences are in poor condition. They do not Reinstate fencelines using historic materials as far as possible High Short follow historic precedent in terms of line and or modern materials/styles that complement the historic materials/style. character. This is a high priority as the condition of the present fences is poor. Circulation Paths gone losing connection from Hall to Reinstate top path running north-south after archaeological Low Long See Section 11 riverside. investigation to establish course, structure and materials. Evoke lesser paths by mowing them out in sward. Low Long 17.4 AREA 3 KITCHEN GARDEN, FLOWER GARDEN, YARDS AND SLIP GARDEN Thematic Subject Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale Buildings/ Garden wall, ha-ha wall, stables, yard walls in poor condition Stablilise to prevent further deterioration. Highest Short structures or ruinous. Repair the structures and reinstate lost High Medium See Section 6 stretches where possible.

Garden walls should be listed. Request DfE appraise the Hall for listing Highest Short Views Flower garden view SE beyond ha-ha blocked by unchecked Restore key views. Low Long See Section 7 vegetation. Setting - - See Section 8 Horticulture All horticultural character lost to dereliction. Evoke the variety of horticultural character Medium Long See Section 9 established by c.1900. In the absence of strong documentary evidence to guide this consider using modern design within the areas to complement the historic character. Trees Historic specimens in flower garden and orchard gone. Replant with positions guided by 1904 OS and Medium Medium See species appropriate to gardens and orchards Section 10 of this period. Land Management Management altered to grazing which has kept the areas Retain grazing as a short term measure, High Short See Section 11 largely open and scrub at bay. improve methods and ensure damage is

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Thematic Subject Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale minimised by livestock. In longer term see Horticulture above. Boundaries Kitchen garden and ha-ha walls partially lost and the rest See Buildings/structures above. See in poor condition. Section 11 Boundary fence of the Slip Garden has gone. Reinstate fencelines using historic materials High Short Modern fences are in poor condition. They do not follow as far as possible or modern materials/styles historic precedent in terms of line and materials/style. that complement the historic character. This is a high priority as the condition of the present fences is poor. Circulation Paths gone, losing the distinctive definition of the design of Reinstate path system evoking framework in Medium Long See each area. OS 1904, based on historic appearance, but Section 11 the exact layout could be amended depending on the horticultural scheme adopted (see above). 17.5 AREA 4 PARK

Thematic Subject Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale Buildings/ structures Modern bungalow and garden walls damage historic Screen with parkland planting including Low Long See Section 6 character & fabric and views from main drive and park. evergreens. Views Views north, west and south-west damaged by new roads Screen with parkland planting including Low Long See Section 7 and the hospice. evergreens. Setting Setting to north, south and west compromised by C20 Screen with parkland planting including Low Long See Section 8 development of roads, hospice & residential. Damages evergreens. tranquility. Horticulture - - See Section 9 Trees Some trees in poor condition. Carry out remedial works to the historic High Short See Section 10 specimens to prolong life. Damage by livestock. Put in place measures to protect from High Short compaction of surrounding ground and

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Thematic Subject Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale damage to the structure, particularly trunks. Scrub has invaded in places. Historically inappropriate Remove hedges, self-sown specimens and High Long hedgelines divide parkland. scrub. Some losses especially in the outer parkland and main drive Plant additional ornamental specimens to High Long avenue. succeed historic ones, based on existing palette and distribution on 1904 OS. Protect from livestock damage. Land Management Survives as grazed sward for wood pasture, but poorly Improve management of grazed sward, High Medium See Section 11 managed. eradicate invasive weeds and scrub and Invasive weeds, scrub encroaching. ensure damage is minimised by livestock. Culvert collapsed. Investigate purpose and condition of culvert. Medium-Low Medium-Long Repair based on this information. Boundaries Fences poor quality & not in historical style around the Reinstate fencelines using historic materials High Short-Medium See Section 11 outer boundary, and internally particularly by the main as far as possible or modern materials/styles drive. that complement the historic character. This is a high priority as the condition of the present fences is poor. Circulation West end of main drive replaced but along an appropriate Surface with historically appropriate Medium Long See Section 11 new line. Surfacing not historically appropriate throughout. appearance, using local aggregate to create gravel appearance. Be guided by type of surfacing at other comparable demesnes if archaeological investigation does not indicate type of surface used. Ensure this matches with surfacing of forecourt. 17.6 AREA 5 FRONT AVENUE DRIVE & BOOMHALL LANE

Thematic Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale Subject Buildings/ Lodge gone (rebuilt). Listed stone gateway and walls in poor Consolidate gateway to prevent further High Short structures condition, deteriorating & in divided ownership. deterioration including removing damaging

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Thematic Issues Recommendations Priority Timescale Subject See Section 6 ivy. Identify a strategy for long term conservation High Long of the whole gateway and walls. Views Views over park gone. Irreversible. - See Section 7 Gateway still part of Culmore Road scene. Setting Immediate park setting lost to mixed development and Madam’s - See Section 8 Bank Road. Horticulture - - See Section 9 Trees A few losses. Some specimens require remedial work to prolong Carry out remedial works. High Short See Section 10 life. Plant replacement sycamores to fill gaps. Medium Long Some specimens in divided ownership. Monitor via TPO and replace if necessary. High ongoing Specimens behind gateway not TPOed like the rest of the avenue Apply TPOs to sycamores behind the gateway. High Short but should be. Land - - Management See Section 11 Boundaries - - See Section 11 Circulation Surfacing not historically appropriate. When resurfacing becomes necessary use Low Long See Section 11 surface to evoke appearance of local gravel drive similar to that for the main drive through the park.

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APPENDICES 18 APPENDIX 1 KEY REFERENCES

Publications Alexander, R., Account of the Family History of Rev. Robert Alexander (Born 1795) … (1946). Atkinson, A., Ireland in the Nineteenth Century … (1833), 257-85. (covers several of the Foyle river- side demesnes including Boom Hall) Calley, Daniel, An Historical Gazetteer to the Buildings of Londonderry (2013) (covers several of the Foyle river-side demesnes including Boom Hall) Colby, T., Ordnance Survey Memoir of Londonderry (1838), 206-07. Dublin Evening Post (06 April 1848) [advert for sale of contents] Johnson, A., Do March in Step girls. A Wren’s Story (1997). Macaulay, T., The History Of England From The Accession Of James II, Vol. 3 (1848), Ch. XII. MacDonald, P. & McAlister, G., ‘Archaeological Investigations of the C17 Military Landscape at Boom Hall, County Londonderry’ Ulster Journal of Archaeology Third Series LXXI (2012), 150-65. Malley, A., ‘The History of Boomhall, Londonderry’, Foyle Civic Trust Review Issue 4 (Spring 1993). Northern Ireland Department for Communities, Listed Building Descriptions Northern Ireland Department for Communities, Register for Historic Parks and Gardens, County Londonderry: Boom Hall Saunders’s News-Letter (20 July 1811). Young, A., A Tour in Ireland 1776-1779 (1892).

Unpublished Reports Blackstock, Philip, Tree Survey Boomhall Lane for , February 2019. MacDonald, P. & McAlister, G., ‘Evaluation No. 5 the Seventeenth-Century Military Landscape at Boom Hall’, (2012), 88-106. Centre for Community Archaeology, Queen’s University Belfast, ‘Data Structure Report No. 133 Excavation at Boomhall, Ballynashallog, Derry-Londonderry, October 2019’. Undertaken on behalf of the Boomhall Trust; funded through Historic Environment Division DfC, Historic Environment Fund.

Maps Ordnance Survey 6”: 1 mile scale: 1st edition, surveyed 1830, County Londonderry sheet 13 2nd edition, revised 1848-52, County Londonderry sheet 13 4th edition, revised 1932, County Londonderry sheet 14 5th edition, revised 1948-49, County Londonderry sheet 14

25”: 1 mile and 1:2,500 scale: 1st edition surveyed 1904, County Londonderry sheets 14.2 & 14.3 1962-63 1971

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Other maps 1777 Taylor & Skinner, Map of Londonderry 1856 Nolan, Estate Map (dated 1856 as copy, probably surveyed earlier as part of conveyance to Baird) (private collection) 1893 Walker, Map of Derry as Besieged in 1688-89 1932 lease map (c.19 acres) 1949 conveyance map (27 acres) 1960 conveyance map Wylie to Wood (c.4 acres) 1978 Tree Preservation Order Map of Front Avenue, Boomhall Lane

General Subject of Demesnes Bowe, P., ‘Some Irish Landscape Gardeners’, National Trust Studies 1981 (1980), 7-16 Colvin, H., Biographical Dictionary of British and Irish Architects 1600-1840 (3rd edn., 1995). Dean., J.A.K, The Gate Lodges of Ulster (1994). Northern Ireland Department for Communities, Listed Building Descriptions Northern Ireland Department for Communities, Register for Historic Parks and Gardens Jupp, B., ‘Heritage Gardens Inventory’ (1992). Howley, J., The Follies and Garden Buildings of Ireland (1993). Lamb, K., Bowe, P., A History of Gardening in Ireland (1995), 41-42. Reeves-Smyth, T., ‘The Natural History of Demesnes’, in Ed. Wilson Foster, J., Nature in Ireland A Scientific and Cultural History (1997), 550-72.

Griffiths Valuation of Ireland online at http://www.askaboutireland.ie/griffith- valuation/index.xml?action=placeSearch (c.1860) 1st edition Ordnance Survey 6” scale, 1830s online at http://maps.osi.ie/publicviewer/

Images NMNI C20 https://www.nmni.com/collections/history/photographs/welch-collection/belumyw07163

https://www.nmni.com/collections/history/photographs/welch-collection/belumyw07161

https://www.nmni.com/collections/history/photographs/green-collection/hoyfmwag2186

https://www.nmni.com/collections/history/photographs/green-collection/hoyfmwag2412

https://www.nmni.com/collections/history/photographs/welch-collection/belumyw07162

https://www.nmni.com/collections/history/photographs/welch-collection/belumyw07281

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19 APPENDIX 2 CHRONOLOGY OF DEMESNE

Abbreviations for References Conservation Plan Alastair Coey Architects Conservation Management Plan, 2020 Malley, 1983 Malley, A., ‘The History of Boomhall, Londonderry’, Foyle Civic Trust Review Issue 4 (Spring 1993). Register Entry Northern Ireland Department for Communities, Register for Historic Parks, Demesnes and Gardens, County Londonderry: Boom Hall Macdonald MacDonald, P. & McAlister, G., “Evaluation No. 5 the C17 Military Landscape at Boom Hall” (unpublished report, 2012), 88-106. Northern Scrivener Blog at: http://northernscrivener.blogspot.com/search/label/Old%20Buildings Date Occurrence or Documentary Information Reference Prehistoric The River Foyle was a centre for settlement in prehistoric times; known sites and 2020 Data Structure findspots from the Mesolithic to the Bronze Age on both riverbanks. Report 133 Medieval The growth of the monastic settlement in Derry required associated land and farms; Conservation Plan period the site was perhaps part of the monastic estates serving the religious community. 1609 King James I approved the Plantation of the North of Ireland and the livery Conservation Plan companies of the City of London were encouraged to invest in the new Protestant colony derived from the forfeited estates of the Irish Earls. The Honourable the Irish Society was founded in 1613 to conduct the Plantation and to govern the rebuilt and renamed City of Londonderry. This included providing the city with a substantial ring of walls to defend the incoming settlers. C17 The site of the demesne was part of the Hon. Irish Society’s holdings granted to that Register entry body as part of the Plantation settlement. 1649 March-August. Civil War: the city was held by Parliamentarians against a Royalist Conservation Plan Siege lasting 20 weeks. As part of their encampment, the besieging Royalists constructed Charles Fort in the townland of Ballynashallog, near to the river where it was attacked twice by enemy vessels. It stood in the south part of the later Boom Hall demesne, now under C20 development. The Royalist besiegers eventually withdrew. 1689 April-July 105 day siege by the army of the deposed James II with French support. Malley, 1983. Charles Fort was reoccupied, by the Jacobites, adjacent Brook Hall house became Conservation Plan their HQ. Macdonald, The river was blocked by a floating boom of wooden spars, iron cramps and thick McAlister 2012? ropes. The west end was possibly north of the present house, anchored by rocks at the mouth of a stream running into the Foyle. The other end of the boom was across the river at Gransha. Each end was guarded by cannons in Grange and Charles Forts on the Boomhall side. The structure and its fortifications were designed by a French engineer, Jean- Bernard de Saint Jean, Baron de Pointis, who described them in a letter to King Louis IV. Built June 1689. Charles Fort was star-shaped (site now under road and housing development). King James probably inspected the camp and pitched his tent beside a well, which took his name now in the north east corner of the demesne. 28 July The boom was smashed by 3 ships, including the Mountjoy. 31 July James’s troops withdrew 1689 Lease on land from the Honourable the Irish Society to John Alexander (c.1670- Malley

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1747) after the Siege. His family were from . 1690 Neville’s maps of the Siege show that Brook Hall estate and walled gardens existed Captain Francis in 1689. Neville map In what became the Boom Hall demesne a small house with outbuildings stood west Conservation Plan of the fort, no detail clear. The exact situation unclear. Register entry 1717 Estate received by John Alexander. Meaning?? Conservation Plan 1745 28 Sept: Nathaniel Alexander received from the City Governor property in the centre Marriage agreement of Derry in Bishop Street and additionally: … 24 acres of land marked 12 on the map between Nathaniel’s of acres situate and lying on the south side of the road leading to Colmore bounded son Robert Alexander on the east by George Gunn’s Acres on the south by Lough Foyle and on the West by and Anne McCulloch Frederick Gordon and Henry Dixon’s acres and about one mile and three quarters 1759 in Conservation distant from Londonderry…(22) Plan; see ‘Acres Map It is unclear whether these were the same lands or an extension of the estate of the City Liberties’ received in 1717 by John Alexander. The mention of George Gunn suggests that his with boundaries of 4 family sold part of their estate (Gunsland?) in 1717 but still retained other land parcels overlaid on nearby in 1745. The map of the City Acres reproduced by John Bryson (2001) shows 1830 OS, based on plots marked 12-15 between the Culmore Road and the river, which suggests this Bryson (2001) was the acreage attached to the house at the Diamond on which the original Boom Hall was built. 1747 d. John Alexander. Malley s. Nathaniel (1689-1761) who became Alderman of the City of Londonderry in 1755 and had a house in the Diamond area of the city (in the vicinity of 23-24 The Diamond). The site of Boom Hall house at that time is unclear. Rev. Robert Alexander mentions that the remains of the “New Fort” at the west end Conservation Plan of the Boom site survived during his childhood.(23) 1761 d. Nathaniel Alexander, buried in St Augustine’s graveyard inside the old City walls. Malley s. second son Robert (1722-90), one of the most prominent merchants in Derry, a Conservation Plan city Alderman, and developed a reputation as an improving landlord. Robert had married Anne McCullough of Ballyartan, Claudy, Co. Londonderry. He was a merchant with many businesses centred on Londonderry. His ship ‘Alexander’ sailed regularly to America. He (or his younger brother James, 1730-1802) expanded the demesne through the purchase of neighbouring farms from fellow Aldermen, William Hogg and Hugh Edwards in the first half of the 1760s.(28) Boom Hall was possibly owned in conjunction with or by Robert’s younger brother James. 1772 James Alexander, Robert’s younger brother and an Irish nabob, returned from India. In his 20s he made a fortune in India, held many Government posts. MP County of Derry 1774-84.11 1774 James Alexander married aged 44 to Anne Crawford of Crawfordsburn Co. Down. 1775 James pieced together the present demesne by acquiring various parcels of land. Conservation Plan From April to June, he was engaged in negotiations with the families of Lecky, Houston, and Leeson to buy the various parts of a further divided package of 27 acres nearby. An attempt to locate these individual plots in relation to how they compose the demesne has been made in Section John Bryson’s 2001 reconstruction of the Acreage Map of the City Liberties.

11 Alexander, one of the relatively few Irishmen in the Bengal civil service, believed that he was worth about £150,000 when he left Bengal in 1772 (Wikipedia).

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BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 c. mid- The new Boom Hall was constructed on a new site by James Alexander. Malley 1770s Land leased from the Honble the Irish Society. Conservation Plan Architect possibly Michael Priestly, a Derry architect (d.1777) or Sir Robt Taylor. Also stable block built, possibly by Priestly. The 1770s-80s was a time when the first houses of clear architectural style began to be built in the north-west.(31) When first laid out, the landscape around the new Boom Hall was probably still littered with military remains. 1776 Two indentures between the two brothers record the transfer of lands previously Conservation Plan acquired by Robert to James, for £500 and £1500 respectively, and the names of the previous owners suggest that these lay adjacent to the lands James had bought in 1775.30 Part of this transfer was the 24 acres on which the first Boom Hall had presumably been built, which had been received by Robert in his marriage agreement (see above). 1777 d. Anne James’s wife shortly after giving birth to their son after a trip to Italy and Conservation Plan Rome. Taylor and Skinner This seems to have been the catalyst for him to move the focus of his energies to Map of Londonderry another estate, Caledon, Co. Tyrone which he bought in 1776 and built a mansion there. Boom Hall house was probably largely complete by now. The stable block is probably contemporary as it is stylistically similar and would have been required to service the new house. The old house possibly stood north of the later house, the location unclear. 1779 Agreement between Robert and James Alexander refers to the ‘new built dwelling House with the Office Houses and the Lands of Boomhall with the Appurtenances thereunto …’ James leasing the new house to Robert at low rent. His interests were now elsewhere. It is likely that the present landscape design was initially laid out for Robert, probably in the late 1770s or 1780s and in any case before his death in 1790. 1779 James Alexander bought the estate of Caledon in and built the present house. 1790 James Alexander cr. Baron Caledon Malley & Obit in d. Robert Alexander who lived in the house Belfast Newsletter 6 Tenancy of Boomhall transferred to Robert’s 2nd son, Henry (1763-1818) who does April 1790 not seem to have lived much here. Unclear whether his mother Ann remained in residence. Register entry Henry sold or transferred the lease to James Du Pre Alexander (1777-1839), from 1802 2nd Earl of Caledon. 1797 James Alexander cr. Viscount Alexander Malley 1799 October. Henry Alexander in residence. Boom Hall hosted Lord Cornwallis, Lord- Conservation Plan Lieutenant of Ireland during a visit to Derry in his response to the Rebellion of the previous year, with a party consisting of “… Lord Tyrone, his brother and two cousins with two secretaries”.36 A letter to the Marquis of Abercorn mentions his activities: “… he sleeps at Boom Hall, the place of H. Alexander, was entertained the first day by the Corporation [of Derry], went to see the forts next day at Burncrana and returned to Alexander’s to dinner…”.(37) 1800 James Alexander cr. Earl of Caledon Malley Son Du Pre became Viscount Alexander

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1802 d. James, 1st Earl of Caledon s. only son, Du Pre Alexander, 2nd Earl 1806 Henry emigrated to South Africa and remained there til his death. It seems that his younger brother General William Alexander (1768-1824) and his family occupied the house. William continued family interests in the City of Derry and was a city Alderman. 1811 ‘The Londonderry, Glendermott and Louisa Corps of Yeomanry were inspected at Saunders’s News- Book Hall Demesne by Sir Charles Asgill, who was pleased to express his approbation Letter 20 July 1811 of their soldier-like appearance, and the precision with which they went through their different evolutions.’ General William Alexander in residence. 1817 d January. D. Ann Alexander, widow of Robert. General William Alexander in Conservation Plan residence. July: A letter from William’s brother James Alexander to Lord Caledon clarifies that Boom Hall was the property of the earls and was rented by their cousins.(38) The letter relates that James, following discussion with his siblings Nathaniel, Henry, Josias, and Elizabeth (the children of Robert Alexander of Boom Hall), hoped to come to an agreement with Caledon to allow William Alexander to remain the tenant at Boom Hall, indicating that in Henry’s absence at Glentogher and then in South Africa, William’s family had already been making use of the house. The correspondence was possibly prompted by the recent death of their mother, Anne. 1818 d. Henry Alexander, Robert’s son. Malley Around this time the house reverted to the Earl of Caledon, Du Pre, and it may have been from then that Boom Hall was rented outside the family. 1819 Sketch from a high point in Brook Hall towards the city. Boom Hall is rises from the Pencil sketch 2 Nov. trees in the middle ground; Brook Hall likewise slightly to the right. Directly across In Trinity College the river was the sylvan setting of Gransha sloping down to the river’s edge. Library, Dublin (via B O’Donnell) 1830 The first detailed mapping of the demesne. By now the layout was a naturalistic Ordnance Survey 6” landscape, the design incomplete as various fields were not included. It focussed on scale, 1st edn the villa with a drive (later back drive), lodge and riverside walk flanking the villa surveyed in this year 117maximizing views of the river Foyle. Kitchen garden to N & E of stables. Grove W of villa. Belts around demesne to SW against The Farm, to NW against the road and NE against Brook Hall. Drive linked Boom Hall and The Farm. This was probably largely laid out shortly after the villa was built, 1770s-80s. 1831 Very Revd. Dean Gough, Dean of Derry in residence. He was followed in occupation Valuation List in by William Ponsonby (1772-1853), Bishop of Derry in residence by 1837-40. Malley; OS Memoirs; Register entry 1833 Atkinson describes the demesnes in this area, little about Boom Hall (misspelt as Atkinson, , A., Ireland Broomhall), much about The Farm. Also Ballynagard, Kilderry, Bellemount, Thorn in the C19 … (1833), Hill, Greenhaw, Coolkeiragh. 266 in passing mentions ‘in addition to the beauties of 257-85 the Foyle, the Farm, and other objects already described, the distinguished seats of Broomhall [sic], Brookhall, and Thornhill, enrich the succeeding prospect, upon one side; and a tract of country moderately elevated , and richly cultivated and improved, extends the whole way from the city of Derry to Ballynagard, upon the other.’ Similar views of the ‘romantic mountain-rocks of Magilligan’ connected with ‘the calm and chastened beauties of the river view.’ Exposition of benefits of growing oak here. ‘Coolkeiragh will rank high among the splendid improvements on that section of the

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river which approximates with Derry; and which, in the scenery of Ireland, is perhaps only exceeded in beauty by the picturesque of Wicklow, Killarney and Slane.’ 1839 d. 2nd Earl s. James Du Pre Alexander, 3rd Earl (1812-1855) Absentee landlord. Lived at Caledon. 1840s Historian Thomas Macaulay visited Derry when writing his history, and it is believed T. Macaulay, The that he visited Boom Hall. He mentioned the Boom Stone, King James’s Well, and a History Of England military burial ground which is otherwise unknown, located in a flower garden which From The Accession is likely to be the former flower garden within the ha-ha south of the kitchen garden. Of James II, Vol. 3 (1848), Ch. XII. 1847 Daniel Baird was Mayor of Derry. 1848 Advert: ‘Boom Hall House, Offices, Garden and Demesne to be let or sold, .. Dublin Evening Post – beautifully situate Mansion on Lough Foyle … fit for the immediate reception of a Thursday 06 April respectable Family … 125a.2r.4p … and lately occupied by the Lord Bishop of Derry. 1848

… The House is spacious and commodious, and the Demesne handsomely planted and inclosed.’ 1849 29 October: Boom Hall sold by 3rd Earl of Caledon to Daniel Baird (c.1795-1862) Malley (family later Maturin-Baird). 125 acres estate. Some 45 acres held under two leases Conservation Plan th rd for lives renewable forever. These leases were dated 10 August 1848 and 3 July Deeds information 1849. The centui que vie were Queen Victoria, Prince George of Cambridge and from Northern Augusta Caroline, Duchess of Mecklenburg Strelitz. Baird was a wealthy Derry merchant and ship-owner who bought the estate of 125 Scrivener acres for £6,000. His first villa was the Casino the south of Derry, a classical pleasure- house built by the Earl Bishop, Frederick Hervey, as a summer residence in 1784. He was clearly rising in the late 1840s accompanying his term as mayor, acquiring the estates of Newtownstewart, Co. Tyrone (1847) and then Boom Hall, which helped secure his social status as an established member of the gentry. Chairman of the Harbour Board 1856-61. Eleanor Alexander reports that this was done to finance the rehabilitation of impoverished tenants on his lands at Caledon during the Famine: Lord Caledon sold the old family place of Boomhall that he might buy out a certain fever den in the neighbourhood of Caledon. He relieved the perishing inhabitants, built cottages for some of them fit for human habitation, and sent others to America with sufficient capital to start life again in the New World… It was a great grief for him [Rev. Robert Alexander] that his early home should pass to strangers, and he never cared to revisit it.(44) c.1849 Nolan Estate Map is problematic in its dating. It is likely that this map copies the Nolan Estate map 1849 conveyance map (as yet unlocated). Despite being clearly dated 1856 (also dated 1856 (private marked as a copy) it shows a layout surveyed after the 1st edition OS (surveyed collection) 1830) but before the completion shown on the 2nd edition OS (1848-52): some features shown on the 2nd OS map are not mapped by Nolan, e.g. extension of the kitchen garden to N & E, new garden to S, some planting along the old (now back) drive and paths. Nolan shows much of the park as arable, the riverside bank as meadow overlooked by the two tree-lined walks. c.1850 By now the landscape design was consolidated within existing boundaries Ordnance Survey 6” apparently developed since the layout shown on the 1856 Nolan map. Baird altered scale, 2nd edn the house probably including the porch and canted bay. Probably also built the gate, surveyed 1848-52; lodge and screen to the west.(48) for the new drive from W. Kitchen garden Conservation Plan remodelled. A small walled garden (0.7 acres/0.28ha) south of the main walled garden replaced by ornamental garden; a new L-shaped unwalled slip garden and

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orchard (1.6 acres/0.64ha) north of walled garden. Most internal park boundaries gone, except along old drive, now Back Drive. This is the layout as completed with few subsequent alterations. 1854 30th September Baird obtained Fee Farm Grants of 45 acres under the provisions of Deeds info. From the Renewable Leasehold Conversion Act 1849 from The Honorable The Irish Northern Scrivener Society. 1858 Parcel 13 in Ballynashallog Township, Landlord Hon Irish Soc, tenant Daniel Baird, Griffiths Valuation area recorded 134a.0r.11p. House offices gatehouses land. Parcel 12 Brook Hall demesne, landlord Lady Hill, Occupant Saml Gilliland, area 95a.3r.25p; Parcel 14 The Farm, landlord and occupant Sir Robert Fergusson, 78a.3r.10p 1862 d. Daniel Baird. 2 March Malley; Letting He left demesne to his wife Barbara for her lifetime. Boom Hall and the immediate advertisement 02 demesne being the lands comprised in and assured by the aforesaid fee farm grants April 1862 was left to his wife Barbara for her life (d. 22nd January 1879) with remainder in Deeds from Northern strict settlement to his grandson David Baird Maturin at age twenty five conditional Scrivener blog upon him adopting the name Baird as his surname who applied to adopt the surname of Baird pursuant to the terms of the, “name and arms clause,” imposed by his grandfather. Barbara immediately leased out Boom Hall and sold all the effects. Auction advert mentions 52 head of cattle, comprising 40 fine fat and store cattle, 6 milk cows, 5 calves, 2 bulls, 8 Superior Farm Horses and 2 Splendid Carriage Horses. Crops including oats, hay, straw, turnips, potatoes. Five carts, and sets of harness, rollers, drill, ploughs, etc, much manure. Many ‘valuable plants in the conservatory and garden, hand roller, watering barrow and engine, garden tools, bell glasses, 6 metal seats for the lawn and garden; 2 cannons; urns, … iron troughs,’ etc. By this point the landscape had reached its most fully developed ornamentally; there was little further development after this as is reflected in early-mid-C20 mapping. It was tenanted although well looked after during the late C19 and early C20. 1864 House leased by John and Joseph Cooke, owners of the shipping company J & J Conservation Plan Cooke and railway directors. They were associates and executors of Daniel Baird’s will and took the lease shortly after his death. They seemingly sub-let the house to others. 1870 House still leased by John and Joseph Cooke and resident, possibly only Joseph. Conservation Plan 1878 The ground rents reserved by the 1849 Fee Farm Grants were purchased from the Deeds from Northern Irish Society on 22nd January 1878 for the sum of £416.3.4. Scrivener blog

1879 d. Barbara Baird. Malley The estate passed to her step-grandson David Baird Maturin-Baird (1849-1924) who lived mainly in England and took little interest in Boomhall BUT he did acquire the Calley, 2013 freehold. House continued to be occupied by the Cooke family and many others in a confusing sequence. Some residents as follows: 1883 David Maturin-Baird recorded as occupier of Boom Hall. PRONI VAL 12/B/32/8D 1886 Joseph Cooke still resident. Bradshaw’s Directory in Conservation Plan 1888 d. James Corscadden, who was resident at Boom Hall. Londonderry Sentinel Sept 22 c.1890 Joseph Cooke and family photographed at Boom Hall with the Gilliland family from Conservation Plan

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the neighbouring Brook Hall. 1898 House occupied by Sir John Barr Johnston, sometime Mayor of Londonderry. Malley Photograph of garden party shows the grounds still well maintained as a family home. 1900 Sir John B Johnston J.P., Alderman (1843-1919) resident Belfast and the Province of Ulster” p.1453 1904 First large-scale mapping. Good detail of trees, fence lines, paths, drives, small OS 25” scale shs 14.2 buildings. 14.3 1909 Photograph of the entrance front and forecourt. Malley; Belfast and Residence of Mr H. J. Cooke. the Province of Ulster 1923 d. Henry Joseph Cooke, eldest son of Joseph who lived in the house. It was then let Malley to various people. 1924 d. David Baird Maturin-Baird, resident in England. Conservation Plan s. eldest surviving son Lieut. Col Charles Edgar Maturin-Baird who became tenant in tail male. A disentailing deed was executed on 8th December 1924 so as to vest the fee simple in Lieut Col Maturin Baird. s. Charles Edgar Maturin-Baird (1899-1994), remaining an absentee landlord. On 5 Dec. 1925 the house was advertised for auction with vacant possession. Not sold. 1932 Charles Edgar leased Boom Hall to Michael Henry McDevitt (d.1969), whose family Conservation Plan were the final private owners of the house; he moved in with siblings Patrick (d.1953), Annette (d.1993) and Marcella (d.1994).(62) The lease gives one of the best historical pictures of the composition of the demesne including a map of the south half. Advert mentions: a substantial and substantial dwelling-house ‘beautifully situate on Sale Advertisement an elevated position overlooking Lough Foyle … approached from the main Derry- February 1932 via B Moville Road. The out-offices are suitable and well arranged. There is a walled-in O’Donnell. Garden, containing about 2 acres, with Conservatory, Peach House and Vinery. …’ including part of the Shore Brae Field total 13 acres. 1932 Lease of the core 20 acres around the house and leading down to the waterside: “… Conservation Plan; the premises known as “Boomhall” Londonderry consisting of the Mansion House, 1932 Lease and Map, Shrubberies, the entire of the stable quadrangle (except the portion thereof which is surveyed Marks, entered from the farm yard) the Roadway of the front avenue leading to the said PRONI D2584/2/20 Mansion House including the front Gate Lodge the quadrangle of out-office the kitchen and flower gardens the whole containing about seven acres and two roods statute measure as delineated and coloured yellow on the map hereon enclosed and Secondly that parcel of land adjoining said Mansion House containing about twelve acres and three roods as delineated and coloured red on said map…”63 McDevitt to install a hydraulic ram pump and tank connecting to the villa water supply. Lease map based on S section of OS 1932 (or possibly the previous edition). Buildings and gardens yellow 7.5 acres (yellow); part of park to west, east and NE of villa 12.75 acres (pink) 1932 Little change, except for simplification of layout, evidence of incipient neglect. Ordnance Survey 6” Drive to The Farm gone. Riverside walks gone. Several more park fence lines scale, 5th edn appeared. surveyed Slip Garden N of kitchen garden now paddock. Farmyard drive to NE gone. 1939 The house was requisitioned by the Admiralty. More work required to identify the

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uses and changes including the additional structures. World House leased to Admiralty and occupied by Women’s Royal Naval Service, as were Malley War II other similar houses around the city. Prefabricated Quonset/Nissen huts erected around the house, especially to the south west overlooking the river. Concrete platforms edged with brick surviving here formed the bases of these structures. The house was left in a poor state when it was vacated in 1946 and lay empty. ?late Condition report details the damage during the Admiralty’s occupancy and the cost Conservation Plan 1940s of repairs. Maturin-Baird filed a claim for £2,502-17s compensation, comprising £1,409-4s-11d fabric repairs, £1,052 to demolish the huts, and £150 to restore the lawns. 1948-49 Demesne layout similar to 1838-42 OS but with more boundaries. Similar to 1932 OS, 5th edition 6” OS. scale 1949 Maturin-Baird began repairing the dilapidated house for McDevitt, but ran into Lease plan. difficulties. 03 November: Tenant McDevitt of Red House Castlerock bought the 26-3-38 acre area for £3,000, ?along with money for repairs. A map from this transaction drawn by the same surveyor, W. F. W. Marks, shows that McDevitt bought a slightly larger portion of land than he had previously rented , now including the orchard north of the walled garden and further sections of parkland east and west of the house. The rest of the demesne was sold over the following years. c.1951 The Derry Orange Order bought the north park field for parades. 1962-63 Landscape framework similar, Strip along SW boundary lost to housing. Drives both OS 1:2,500 scale lined with trees. Lines of trees along former river walk gone. Groves around villa present. Kitchen garden an orchard. 1967 McCloskey family started to farm parts of the demesne. Pers. comm. B. O’Donnell 1969 d. Michael Henry McDevitt. 18 May. Malley After this two of his sisters remained but the house and stable buildings began to fall into dereliction. Major fire caused collapse of the roof and floors and loss of all windows. 1970s Sewer constructed across the demesne, causing damage particularly to eastern Conservation Plan section of walled garden walls. 1978 Tree Preservation Order applied to 100 sycamore trees in Front Avenue, Boomhall Lane. Some were omitted which stand immediately behind the gateway walls but were part of the overall scheme. These survive. 1980-84 Southern 1/3 of the site lost to the Foyle Bridge and Madams Bank Road. This cut off Front Avenue drive from the demesne. 1993 Photograph of ruins. Malley 1994 Last of McDevitt siblings, Marcella, died. 1996 The reduced demesne was transferred from the ownership of the McDevitt family to Derry City Council. 2001 3.5 ha. in the north-west corner of the demesne lost to the new Foyle Hospice Day Centre.

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20 APPENDIX 3 HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT

20.1 SOURCES The understanding of the historic development of the demesne is based largely on research carried out for the Alastair Coey Boom Hall Conservation Management Plan (2020), and archaeological reports, supplemented by information obtained by research on the Internet and that kindly supplied by local historians particularly Bart O’Donnell. Primary research in documentary repositories was not included in the project brief.

Key relevant information with references has been set out in the Chronology (Appendix 2) and informs this synthesis of the landscape development. 20.2 EARLY HISTORY The medieval history of Boom Hall demesne is unclear and requires further research. The site may have formed part of monastic estates serving the religious community in Derry.

In 1609 King James I approved the Plantation of the North of Ireland and the livery companies of the City of London were encouraged to invest in the new Protestant colony derived from the forfeited estates of the Irish Earls. The Honourable the Irish Society was founded in 1613 to conduct the Plantation and to govern the rebuilt and renamed City of Londonderry. This included providing the city with a substantial ring of walls to defend the incoming settlers. The site of the later demesne was part of the Hon. The Irish Society's holdings granted to that body as part of the Plantation settlement. The Society leased its land on a long term basis to various tenants including along the west bank of the River Foyle north of the city of Derry.

The exceptional oak pollards that survive in the demesne may date from the C16 or C17, originating as working trees managed to provide a regular supply of wood and possibly to mark boundaries. 20.3 SEVENTEENTH CENTURY MILITARY LANDSCAPE

20.3.1 Civil War 1640s and the first Siege of Derry (1649) In the Civil War, from March-August 1649, the city of Derry was held by Parliamentarians against a Royalist Siege lasting 20 weeks. As part of their encampment, the besieging Royalists constructed Charles Fort in the townland of Ballynashallog, near to the river where it was attacked twice by enemy vessels. It stood in the south corner of the later Boom Hall demesne (adjacent to the boundary with The Farm demesne), which is now beneath C20 development south of the Foyle Bridge. The Royalist besiegers eventually withdrew.

The site of the Charles Fort is identified on the maps of the 1689 siege (Figures 2 & 3). It was a substantial rectangular fort with bastions at the corners, on the west bank of the River Foyle opposite a similar fort at Gransha called Grange Fort. The forts defended the river at the south end of a relatively narrow section linking Lough Foyle to the north giving sea access, and Rosse’s Bay to the south, beyond which lay Derry on the west bank where the river narrowed again.

20.3.2 Williamite War and the Second Siege of Derry (1689) In April-July 1689 the Jacobite forces of the deposed James II laid a 105 day siege to Derry with

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French support. Charles Fort was reoccupied, by the Jacobites, and to the north the adjacent Brook Hall house became their headquarters. The river was blocked by a floating boom of wooden spars, iron cramps and thick ropes. The west end was possibly north of the present house, anchored by rocks at the mouth of a stream running into the Foyle. The other end of the boom was across the river at Gransha. Each end was guarded by cannons in Grange and Charles Forts. The structure of the Boom and its fortifications were designed by a French engineer, Jean-Bernard de Saint Jean, Baron de Pointis, who described them in a letter to King Louis IV and built it in June 1689. King James probably inspected the camp and is reputed to have pitched his tent beside a well, which took his name as King James’s Well and became incorporated later in the north-east corner of the demesne.

On 28 July the boom was smashed by 3 ships and their crews, including the Mountjoy which became a symbol of Protestant loyalism, and on 31 July James’s troops withdrew. The siege of the city was relieved and formed a seminal moment in the history of British and Irish politics. The Jacobite siege was a failure and the Williamite Protestant forces were victorious. For the Protestants this epic defence gave inspiration for more than three centuries to come, along with the site of the boom, and its courageous breaking.

20.3.3 Siege Maps The maps drawn after the siege show a number of features on the site of the later demesne. That published by Walker (1893, Figures 2, 28-30)) includes the Charles Fort defending the river immediately before it widens into Rosse’s Bay, a site probably now covered by the Foyle Bridge and Madam’s Road. At some distance north of this was the west end of the boom which straddled the river obliquely to the east bank to the north-east below Grange Fort. On the west bank the boom was defended by a redoubt or battery on the riverside and a zig-zag trench on the slope to the north as well as other smaller structures. On the plateau behind the top of the slope a line of encampments overlooked these features and the river. Further defensive features of this sort lined the west and east banks. A small house with outbuildings stood west of the fort but the exact position is unclear.

Another map shows a line of 3 trees (probably a notional number to represent some kind of planting) on the bank south of the Charles Fort, but none in the later Boom Hall demesne. In the Brook Hall demesne a walled orchard lay north of the Hall and a larger grove beyond this. It is surprising that the planting survived, given the occupation by the military forces, although perhaps it was retained as cover for men and weapons.

20.3.4 Interpretation of the Siege Maps in Today’s Demesne Landscape The Siege maps are relatively small scale, but are apparently fairly accurate. When the 1830 OS, current topographical survey and current aerial photograph are overlaid on the most detailed of the Siege maps (Figures 28-30 below), the level of accuracy of the survey becomes clearer and possible positions of various features within the surviving demesne can be identified. See accompanying pdf overlay file ‘Overlay Historic Maps LIDAR Boom Hall SRHEL 09 Sep 20’. If the Siege map is as accurate as it seems, it can be interpreted in the demesne landscape as follows.

While the primary purpose of the Siege Map is to mark the military features it also needed to reflect significant existing features. The latter include the Culmore Road and river as major features. In

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addition existing buildings and boundaries are shown. These reflect the management under the ownership of The Honorable the Irish Society since 1613. The most striking survival in today’s landscape is the boundaries associated with the enclosures to the north (marked a and g below). These were perpetuated in demesne field boundaries and reflected in ownership parcels when sold by the Maturin Bairds in the mid-C20 including the Orange Order parade field.

Archaeological investigations have identified little evidence of the military features between the road and river. It is likely that the west bank of the Foyle retained evidence of the earthworks and structures well into the C18 until demesne relandscaping works began c.1770s, but landscape remodelling for the demesne, and C20 housing development and road-making works have largely obliterated any remains. The boom anchor point is beneath the Foyle Bridge footings and groundworks. The redoubt/battery north of the boom was at the break of slope close to the south of the later Hall but no surviving evidence of the site has yet been identified and the landscaping works around the Hall probably removed most traces.

Of the little surviving evidence, attribution is tentative. A stone surviving on the river slope above the bank has been identified as the ‘Boom Stone’ which helped to anchor the boom; this has not been confirmed by documentary evidence and its original position is unclear but presumably it was under the present Foyle bridge. The spring known as King James’s Well for its putative association with the former monarch was probably used by the encampment and incorporated in the later landscape as an ornamental and symbolic feature as it is reputed to be the site of his own encampment but again this is not certain.

g

g

a

b f

c

e

d

Figure 28 c.1690 Siege Features map overlying 1830 Ordnance Survey Map.

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a. Large enclosures straddling boundary between Boom Hall and Brook Hall. The enclosure boundaries which were incorporated into Boom Hall park are reflected in the demesne boundaries (and survive today, see topographical overlay below). It is unclear whether the enclosures were of military origin or related to the existing land occupation and management. b. Small buildings near the main drive, possibly cottages or farmstead, reached via a track off the Culmore Road . The route of the track may relate to the route of the later main drive. c. Camp; set back from the slope. The north half aligned approximately with the west boundary of the later Grove enclosure and continued south in a straight line to The Farm demesne boundary. d. Boom anchor point, now below bridge. Possibly the original site of the Boom Stone. e. Polygonal redoubt/ battery, south of the Hall, set into the break of slope, the platform angled for views up and down the river. It was flanked by a line of defences along the break of slope. f. Zig zag fortifications overlaid by flower garden and kitchen garden. If they were trenches, could they have been re-used for burying the bodies of soldiers? If so this could verify the gardener’s report in 1840 of finding skeletal remains in the flower garden, as recorded by Macaulay (1848). g. Land boundaries, still reflected clearly in the parcels existing in 1830, enclosing a strip of land between Culmore Road and the river, presumably in separate tenancy to that to the south. The area between the two dotted lines marked g includes the former parade field.

g

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f

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Figure 29 c.1690 Siege Features map overlaid with current topographical survey. a. Enclosures straddling boundary between Boom Hall and Brook Hall. The enclosure boundaries now in Boom Hall park are reflected in the current boundaries. b. Small buildings near the main drive, possibly cottages or farmstead, reached via a track off the Culmore Road . The route of the track may relate to the route of the later main drive.

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BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 c. Camp; north half following approximately the west boundary of the later Grove. d. Boom anchor point, now below bridge e. Polygonal bastion/redoubt fortification, immediately south of the Hall, set into the break of slope, the platform angled for views up and down the river. Flanked by defences along the top of the slope. f. Zig zag fortifications (probably trenches) overlaid by flower garden and kitchen garden. g. Land boundaries, sections of which are still reflected clearly, enclosing the strip of land between Culmore Road and the river, comparison with the 1830 OS indicating that in the C17 it originated in separate tenancy to that to the south. The area between the two dotted lines marked g includes the former parade field. The north end now contains the hospice.

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Figure 30 c.1690 Siege Features map overlaid with current aerial photograph. Compare with overlays in figures above and accompanying pdf overlay file ‘Overlay Historic Maps LIDAR Boom Hall SRHEL 09 Sep 20’. 20.4 THE ORIGIN OF THE DEMESNE, THE ALEXANDER FAMILY In 1689 after the Siege a lease on the land which became the Boom Hall demesne was agreed by the Honourable the Irish Society with John Alexander (c.1670-1747). His family were from County Donegal. The Alexanders settled at Boom Hall as their country estate, with a town house in the city of Derry at the Diamond. The extent of the land is unclear as are any landscape works for the setting of the new house which was apparently built. The area probably retained various features from the C17 military landscape including a ‘New Fort’ and was principally an agricultural holding. The existing pollard oak remained. It is likely that some of the trees surviving in 2020 were planted, possibly including the 6m girth sweet chestnut. 20.5 THE CREATION OF THE DEMESNE, 1770S-1820S

20.5.1 1770s, Robert and James Alexander Further land acquisitions of areas forming part of the later united demesne were made by successive Alexanders in 1717 and 1745 (see Chronology for details), but the extent of the demesne in 1761 at the death of Nathaniel Alexander is unclear.

Nathaniel’s second son, Robert (1722-90), was one of the most prominent merchants in Derry, a city Alderman, and developed a reputation as an improving landlord. His youngest son, James (1730-

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1802) became in his 20s in the 1750s a wealthy Nabob funded by his many Government posts in India. After James’s return from India in 1772 and marriage in 1774 he completed the present demesne by acquiring various parcels of land and planned to build a mansion for his new family on a new site in the style of a riverside villa surrounded by its own ornamental landscape. The likely boundaries of the four main parcels that seem to have been united to create the demesne are shown on the Acres Map of the City Liberties. The consolidated Boom Hall estate was one of several prestigious demesnes flanking the banks of the River Foyle developed in the C18 and C19 (see Figures 16 & 17, & Appendix 4).

The house was apparently commissioned in the mid-1770s by James and formed the focal point of the landscape design. The architect is unclear but possible attributions include the local Michael Priestley, a Derry architect (d.1777), or Sir Robert Taylor, a noted English architect who produced several similar villas in England. It could have been the design of a local builder copying other models, given the rather crude detailing in places. The nearby stable block was probably contemporary and by the same hand. Farm yards were constructed adjacent.

Boom Hall villa was sited close to the edge of the plateau above the riverside slopes, at 78 ft AOD. It was the lowest of the string of four adjacent villas, with The Farm at 92ft, Brook Hall at 130ft and Thorn Hill at 142ft. Like the latter two villas it could have been built on higher ground further back from the river, in the north corner of the demesne and enjoyed more dramatic panoramic views. Instead it was built with a stronger visual and physical link, enhanced by the paths down the slopes to the water. While both Boom Hall and Thorn Hill were set back c.135m from the river the considerably higher Thorn Hill villa had a steeper drop to the water. Beyond these Ballynagard villa further north was a little closer to the water at 110m distance, across a paddock and stood at somewhat at less than 100ft AOD.

The substantial (1.65 acre) walled kitchen garden built adjacent to the north-east of the stables faced south-east, following contemporary advice. The fine walls were of local schist externally, lined with expensive brick which warmed quicker and was a prestigious feature. The south-east wall was faced entirely of brick with a stone core. The north wing of the stable block closed one corner. The walled garden was typical in size for such a demesne, similar to those at The Farm and Thorn Hill, but the Brook Hall one was double the size at 3 acres. Like Thorn Hill it was placed well above the riverside close to the house and offices, whereas those on the riverside, such as Brook Hall and The Farm were more isolated and vulnerable to theft from the river.

In 1777 James and his wife Anne travelled to Italy and Rome, clearly absorbing the culture of the Grand Tour, but Anne died in childbirth upon their return. James moved the focus of his energies to another estate, Caledon, Co. Tyrone which he bought in 1779 and built a mansion there. Boom Hall house was probably largely complete by now. In 1779 the demesne was leased by James to Robert who made it his family home until his death in 1790.

It is likely that the present landscape design was initiated for Robert, probably taking several years to lay out and plant in the late 1770s or 1780s, and in any case before his death in 1790. From this period probably date the present main drive (in the C19 superseded by the Front Avenue), the

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walled garden and yards, the Grove, treed walks along the top of the slopes to the north and south of the Hall leading down to the river, the riverside wall. These were set in a naturalistic landscape park which did not achieve its final extent until c.1850.

20.5.2 Subsequent Occupiers, 1790s-1830s After Robert’s death in 1790 James (cr. Earl of Caledon in that year) and then his son Du Pre Alexander (s. in 1802, becoming 2nd Earl) leased the property to Robert’s family. Although it less usual for tenants to alter parks and gardens General William Alexander was in residence from at least 1806-1817 and may have made alterations to the landscape, but this is unsubstantiated. Around 1818 the house reverted to the Earl of Caledon, Du Pre, and it may have been from then that Boom Hall was rented outside the family. In the 1830s and possibly into the 1840s it was leased to two successive senior clerics, who probably made few if any alterations.

20.5.3 The Landscape by 1830 The first detailed mapping of the demesne is the 1st edition 6” scale Ordnance Survey, surveyed in 1830. This shows the cumulative development of the layout, probably principally as it was designed for Robert Alexander in the 1770s-80s. The layout was based on the typical mid-late C18 naturalistic style epitomised by Capability Brown and his contemporary landscape designers in Britain and Ireland but was incomplete and retained elements of earlier phases which did not fit with the landscape park character. These included lines of field boundary trees in new parkland to the north, arable fields to the west and east that were not incorporated into the park and field boundaries breaking up the desired open sweep of parkland.

The main drive (superseded by 1850 by the Front Avenue but in the late C20 returned to the main approach) swept through the park from the Culmore Road to the stable block and beyond to the forecourt on the west front. Initially it was straight in line from the road (this section now lost), only curving sinuously after it crossed the stream that bisected the park west to east, indicating that the west, roadside stretch was not initially part of the ornamental layout. The most notable ornamental features were the avenue walks from the Hall along the slopes taking a gently sloping route to the riverside to north and south. King James’s Well was not marked as such but presumably existed.

20.5.4 1830s-40s In 1839 the 2nd Earl Caledon died and was succeeded by James Du Pre Alexander, 3rd Earl (1812- 1855), who was an absentee landlord and it seems lived at Caledon. A succession of clerics rented the Hall. They perhaps only rented the pleasure grounds and kitchen garden without the wider demesne and in any case as tenants are unlikely to have made significant changes to the landscape. In April 1848 the demesne was advertised: ‘Boom Hall House, Offices, Garden and Demesne to be let or sold, .. beautifully situate Mansion on Lough Foyle … fit for the immediate reception of a respectable Family … 125a.2r.4p … and lately occupied by the Lord Bishop of Derry. … The House is spacious and commodious, and the Demesne handsomely planted and inclosed.’12 It is unclear whether the Front Avenue was created by this point but it is more likely to have been the work of Daniel Baird (below).

12 Dublin Evening Post – Thursday 06 April 1848

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The Boom Stone was present as a landscape feature by this time. The historian Thomas Macaulay visited Derry in the 1840s when writing his history, published in 1848, and it is believed that he visited Boomhall. He mentioned the Boom Stone, King James’s Well and a military burial ground which is otherwise unknown. The stone was an object of interest on display, of which he wrote:

‘The river was fringed with forts and batteries which no vessel could pass without great peril. After some time it was determined to make the security still more complete by throwing a barricade across the stream, about a mile and a half below the city. Several boats full of stones were sunk. A row of stakes was driven into the bottom of the river. Large pieces of fir wood, strongly bound together, formed a boom which was more than a quarter of a mile in length, and which was firmly fastened to both shores, by cables a foot thick, A huge stone, to which the cable on the left bank was attached, was removed many years later, for the purpose of being polished and shaped into a column. But the intention was abandoned, and the rugged mass still lies, not many yards from its original site, amidst the shades which surround a pleasant country house named Boom Hall. Hard by is the well from which the besiegers drank. A little further off is the burial ground where they laid their slain, and where even in our own time the spade of the gardener has struck upon many sculls and thighbones at a short distance beneath the turf and flowers.’13

The graveyard has not been located but the reference to turf and flowers indicates that it was in the area which became the flower garden enclosed by the ha-ha in front of the walled kitchen garden. 20.6 DANIEL BAIRD, 1849-62

20.6.1 Daniel Baird

On 29 October 1849 the 125 acre Boom Hall estate was sold by the 3rd Earl of Caledon to Daniel Baird (c.1795-1862) (family later Maturin-Baird) for £6,000. Some 45 acres were held under two leases for lives renewable forever, dated 10 August 1848 and 3 July 1849. The centui que vie were Queen Victoria, Prince George of Cambridge and Augusta Caroline, Duchess of Mecklenburgh Strelitz.14

Baird was a wealthy Derry merchant and ship-owner. His first villa was the Casino the south of Derry, a classical pleasure-house built by the Earl Bishop, Frederick Hervey, as a summer residence in 1784. Baird was rising in the social scale in the late 1840s with his term as mayor, acquiring the estates of Newtownstewart, Co. Tyrone (1847) and then Boom Hall, which helped secure his social status as an established member of the gentry. He was Chairman of the Harbour Board, 1856-61. 20.7 LANDSCAPE DEVELOPMENT, THE ZENITH OF THE ORNAMENTAL LANDSCAPE DESIGN

20.7.1 1856 Nolan Estate Map Two key maps relate to this period: the 2nd edition 6” scale Ordnance Survey, surveyed 1848-52, probably here in 1850-52, and the coloured and annotated estate map surveyed by Nolan, which is

13 Thomas Macaulay, The History Of England From The Accession Of James II, Volume 3 (1848), Chapter XII. 14 Deeds information from Northern Scrivener Blog.

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clearly marked as a copy (although it is not stated of what) and dated 1856 (private collection). From comparison of these two maps it appears that the 1856 map copied an earlier survey, probably a map related to the conveyance to Baird of 1849.

Nolan’s survey covers an area of 134 acres and shows landscape developments since 1830 particularly the new Front Drive from the west, additional park planting, the completion of the Grove to 5 acres, removal of some regular lines of field boundary trees and removal of one of the two parallel paths along the top of the north half of the slopes that led to King James’s Well. Surprisingly, given the scattered tree planting, all the park was marked as in arable cultivation. The riverside slopes were marked and shaded as 13 acres of meadow, with 1.5 acres of pasture in a narrow strip along the river bank, below the demesne riverside wall. Plantations, including belts, The Grove (5 acres) and pleasure grounds around the Hall (2.5 acres) totalled nearly 15 acres. The Hall was enclosed by a looping path linked to the north and south riverside walks, with a large oval forecourt at which the two drives arrived.

It is unclear if the alterations since 1830 were made by the Alexanders or their tenants, or in the earliest part of Baird’s ownership. If it is based on a conveyance document then it shows the former. If it was commissioned by Baird it could reflect very recent changes made for him.

20.7.2 C.1850 Ordnance Survey 6” Scale Map This map was apparently surveyed during the earliest years of Baird’s ownership. It must postdate the survey shown on the Nolan 1856 copy map as it shows alterations and new features that are also shown on later mapping but not by Nolan. These include: • new cultivated Slip Garden wrapping around the walled garden to the north and east, replacing the stack yard and arable land noted by Nolan, • a new garden immediately south of the kitchen garden on the site of former pleasure ground plantation enclosed by a new boundary (presumably marked by the ha-ha), including three glasshouses along the brick south side of the walled garden • the forecourt remodelled and reduced in size on its west side • new paths below the Hall leading directly down the slopes to the riverside • Loose swathes of planting informally framing the back drive (the present main drive)

This map shows the landscape framework at its most fully developed as consolidated by Baird. 20.8 THE DEMESNE BY THE DEATH OF DANIEL BAIRD, 1862 Daniel Baird died in March 1862. By this point the landscape had reached its most fully developed ornamentally; little further significant development occurred after this as is reflected in early-mid- C20 mapping. The core of the demesne was tenanted during the late C19 and early C20 and well maintained.

Boom Hall and the immediate demesne being the lands comprised in and assured by fee farm grants of 45 acres obtained in 1854 was left to his wife Barbara for her life (d. 22nd January 1879). The remainder was left in strict settlement to his grandson David Baird Maturin (1849-1924) at age 25 conditional upon him adopting the name Baird. Barbara immediately leased out Boom Hall and sold all the effects.

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The 1862 auction advert mentions 52 head of cattle, comprising 40 fine fat and store cattle, 6 milk cows, 5 calves, 2 bulls, 8 Superior Farm Horses and 2 Splendid Carriage Horses. Crops including oats, hay, straw, turnips, potatoes. Five carts, and sets of harness, rollers, drill, ploughs, etc, much manure. This indicates that the agricultural uses of the demesne included pasture, hay meadow and arable. Horticultural interest included many ‘valuable plants in the conservatory and garden, hand roller, watering barrow and engine, garden tools, bell glasses, 6 metal seats for the lawn and garden; 2 cannons; urns, … iron troughs,’ etc.15 This was typical for a demesne of some status. Of particular interest for the garden are the glasshouses and valuable plants, the 6 metal seats, possibly of the Coalbrookdale-type iron seat ornamental patterns, the urns and iron troughs (if not farmyard type). The two cannons were redolent of the 1689 siege and perhaps formed part of the presentation of the Boom Stone. 20.9 LATER C19 AND EARLY C20 BAIRD OWNERSHIP AND COOKE TENANCY

20.9.1 Tenants After 1862 the core of the demesne including the Hall and immediate surrounds were leased for over 90 years by the Bairds to a series of tenants, until sold in 1949. While 45 acres had been left to Barbara during her lifetime, the extent of the leased land is unclear. In 1932 the area leased to McDevitt occupied nearly 20 acres. Until the 1920s the principal tenants were members of the Cooke family who apparently sub-leased to others, including various Derry notables, in a confusing sequence.

In 1864 the Hall was leased by John and Joseph Cooke, owners of the Derry shipping company J & J Cooke, and railway directors. They were associates and executors of Daniel Baird’s will and seemingly sub-let the house to others. In 1878 the ground rents reserved by the 1849 Fee Farm Grants were purchased (by/for David Baird Maturin-Baird?) from the Honorable the Irish Society for £416.3.4.16 Thus the family acquired the whole freehold of the estate. In 1879 Barbara Baird died and the core of the estate passed to her step-grandson David Baird Maturin-Baird who lived mainly in England and took little interest in Boomhall but was recorded as occupier in 1883.17 Sub-tenants of the Cookes include James Corscadden (recorded in 1888), and Sir John Barr Johnston, sometime Mayor of Londonderry. A photograph of his garden party in 1898 shows the grounds were still well maintained as a prestigious family home.

It is usually the case that tenants seldom make major ornamental alterations in such cases and this seems to be so for the leased core. However in the wider landscape some alterations occurred most notably the planting of the two drives as sycamore avenues in the late C19 or early C20.

15 Letting advertisement 02 April 1862 (private collection); deeds information from Northern Scrivener blog. 16 Deeds information from Northern Scrivener blog. 17 PRONI VAL 12/B/32/8D

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Figure 31 Late C19 photograph of the entrance steps to the Hall.

Figure 32 1909 Forecourt and entrance steps. (Malley, in Foyle Civic Trust Review, Spring 1993). Gravel forecourt, fencing flanks steps, shrubbery on RH side, planted iron or stone vase on LH side. This indicates the high level of maintenance that the tenants carried out.

20.9.2 1904 25” Scale Ordnance Survey The 1904 OS shows the demesne in greatest detail before decline and damage set in. The layout is similar to the 2nd edition (surveyed 1848-52) with a few minor alterations. The boundary of the Slip Garden north of the walled garden had been moved northwards. Paths, fence lines and trees were accurately plotted including the distinction between broadleaves and conifers. Many of the trees plotted can be identified today and are mapped on the recent topographical survey. The slopes were divided from the park by the pleasure grounds, kitchen garden, and stream ravine to the north. The shape of King James’s Well was outlined by a fence. The lines of the trees along the former paths at the top of the slopes survived but the paths down to the waterside did not. The line of the wall against the river bank was complete. Surprisingly given the riverside situation, and unlike at Brook Hall, there was no jetty, ice house or boathouse.

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Figure 33 Late C19 photograph of the east, garden front and croquet lawn (original with R Bigger).

Figure 34 Late C19/early C20 photograph of the east, garden front (Ayton).

Figure 35 c.1993 The derelict Hall, the west, entrance front, photograph. (Malley, in Foyle Civic Trust Review, Spring 1993)

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20.10 EARLY-MID-C20, THE LAST OF THE BAIRD FAMILY In 1924 David Maturin-Baird died in England. His son, Charles (1899-1994) remained an absentee landlord and in 1925 the house was advertised for sale with vacant possession. It was not sold.

In 1932 the core buildings and grounds were advertised for rent. The advert mentioned: a substantial and substantial dwelling-house ‘beautifully situate on an elevated position overlooking Lough Foyle … approached from the main Derry-Moville Road. The out-offices are suitable and well arranged. There is a walled-in Garden, containing about 2 acres, with Conservatory, Peach House and Vinery. …’ including part of the Shore Brae Field total 13 acres.18 20 acres were leased to Michael Henry McDevitt (d.1969), whose family in 1949 the final private owners of the house; he moved in with siblings Patrick (d.1953), Annette (d.1993) and Marcella (d.1994).

The lease gives one of the best historical pictures of the composition of the demesne including a map of the south half, similar in layout to the 1932 Ordnance Survey. “… the premises known as “Boomhall” Londonderry consisting of the Mansion House, Shrubberies, the entire of the stable quadrangle (except the portion thereof which is entered from the farm yard) the Roadway of the front avenue leading to the said Mansion House including the front Gate Lodge the quadrangle of out-office the kitchen and flower gardens the whole containing about seven acres and two roods statute measure as delineated and coloured yellow on the map hereon enclosed and Secondly that parcel of land adjoining said Mansion House containing about twelve acres and three roods as delineated and coloured red on said map…”. McDevitt was to install a hydraulic ram pump and tank connecting to the villa water supply. It included the buildings, Front Avenue, lodge and gardens (marked in yellow) which covered 7.5 acres; part of the Grove to the west (marked in red), and the slopes north of the Hall of 12.75 acres (marked in red). The stable block was included but not the farmyards or Slip Garden north of the walled garden.

The 1932 and 1948-49 OS show little change, except the loss of paths, and agricultural drives.

At the outbreak of World War II the house was leased by the Admiralty as the port of Derry was strategically important to the war in the Atlantic. The house was occupied by the Women’s Royal Naval Service, as were other similar houses around the city. Prefabricated Quonset huts were erected around the house, especially to the south- east overlooking the river (see Figures 23 and 26). Concrete platforms edged with brick formed the bases of these structures. The house was left in a poor state when vacated in 1946 and lay empty. Maturin-Baird filed a claim for £2,502-17s compensation, comprising £1,409-4s-11d fabric repairs, £1,052 to demolish the huts, and £150 to restore the lawns. Maturin-Baird began repairing the dilapidated house for McDevitt, but ran into difficulties.

In November 1949 the tenant McDevitt, of Red House Castlerock, bought 26-3-38 acres for £3,000. A map from this transaction shows that McDevitt bought a larger area than he had previously rented, including the Slip Garden (by now an orchard) north of the walled garden and the remainder of the Grove west of the Hall. The rest of the demesne was sold to various owners including the Derry Grand Orange Lodge which used the north park for parades from the City until 1969.

18 Sale Advertisement February 1932 via B O’Donnell.

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20.11 LATE C20 AND C21 DECLINE AND DAMAGE In May 1969 Michael McDevitt died, heralding long-term serious decline and damage. Two of his sisters remained but the Hall and stable buildings began to fall into dereliction. A major fire caused the collapse of the roof and floors and loss of all windows. Shortly before this, c.1967, the McCloskey family began to farm parts of the demesne and have continued in this role since. In the 1970s a sewer constructed across the demesne caused damage particularly to the eastern sections of the garden walls. In 1978 a Tree Preservation Order was applied to 100 sycamores in Front Avenue in Boomhall Lane. Several at the west end behind the wing walls of the gateway were omitted but form part of the same planting scheme.

In the early 1980s the southern 1/3 of the demesne was lost to the Foyle Bridge (opened 1984) and Madam’s Bank Road, severing the Front Avenue drive from the demesne, which became engulfed in housing and is now called Boomhall Lane. The lodge was later rebuilt but the stone gateway survived and was listed. The outer, straight, 180m section of the Back Drive (now the main drive) was lost along with the lodge and gateway. This was replaced with the present entrance and 300m long section of new drive below the Culmore Road embankment which enjoys dramatic views over the demesne and river.

Derry City Council gradually acquired the present area of the demesne in several transactions in the 1990s. In 1991 c. 26.5 acres of the north park was acquired by the Council in a tripartite transaction from the Trustees of the Derry Grand Orange Lodge (1), Foyle Hospice (2) and Derry City Council (3). In 1989 the Trustees had agreed to sell the subject lands along with others to the Hospice but no conveyance had been executed. Also in 1991 other lands were purchased from the Hospice. In 1994 certain lands were acquired from the DOE with part being disposed of to the Department for Regional Development. In 1994 the last of the McDevitt siblings died and in 1996 the core of the site in McDevitt ownership was bought by Derry City Council.19

In 2001 3.5 ha. of the high ground in the north corner of the demesne was lost to the new Foyle Hospice Day Centre which was landscaped with woodland surrounding the elevated low-level building which overlooks the demesne and river.

19 Information supplied by Robert Bigger, Derry City and Strabane District Council.

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21 APPENDIX 4 CONTEXT OF DERRY VILLA DEMESNES

21.1 SOURCES The demesnes were mentioned to varying degrees in Atkinson (1833), and Colby’s OS Memoirs (1838). Useful data is presented in the Griffiths Valuation Survey (1858). Surviving houses are noted in Calley’s City of Derry … Gazetteer (2013) are lodges are often noted in Dean’s Gate Lodges of Ulster (1994). Detailed history and current descriptions of the most significant surviving demesnes is provided by the NI Historic Parks and Gardens Register. Their development and, in many cases, decline and loss, are mapped on the successive editions of the C19 Ordnance Survey from 1830 onwards. The most informative sources are discussed below, leading to a summary of the demesnes.

21.2 ATKINSON’S DEMESNE DESCRIPTIONS 1833 Atkinson in his section on Derry notes many of the prestigious villa demesnes in the riverside environs which provides a useful understanding as the context for Boom Hall.20 He also describes the key elements of the wider setting and their effects, including the River Foyle, the distant mountains on either side and views of the City of Derry. He noted that from the ramparts of the city walls the villas to the north made a great contribution to the view, for, ‘there is as splendid a view of lawn and water to the distant mountains, with villas sparkling in the space, as any eye delighting in the sublime and beautiful of art and nature need covet and enjoy’ (p.255).

Relevant entries relating to demesnes include for The Farm (pp.257-65); Ballynagard (John Hart) including the broad oak; Kilderry the seat of the late General Hart; Bellemount (Belmont); Thornhill; Greenhaw (north of Belmont); Coolkeiragh (east of Foyle opposite Ballynagard). He also describes the character of the river and mountain setting and is very approving of the total effect in the area.

He gives a long description of the 110 acre demesne of The Farm (perhaps the longest passage of those of the Derry demesnes that he describes), but Boom Hall is only mentioned in passing, see below. Of The Farm he says:

‘There are other approaches to the city of Derry by no means destitute of interest … in reference to the less useful, but more amusing department of the picturesque, no road in the neighbourhood of Derry can compete with that which opens a communication between the city and The Farm. As a walk or drive from the town it stands pre-eminent; the broad waters of the river Foyle, with the various vessels which pass and repass to the city of Derry, being situated on the right; a country gently elevated, richly cultivated, and decorated with public buildings and picturesque villas, on the left; the road over which you are passing, smooth and in good order, accommodated with a neat foot path for pedestrians and enlivened with numerous vehicles and passengers … and the whole scenery of the city and neighbouring country in this direction, being grouped in a valley thus richly embellished, watered by the Foyle, and enclosed by the lofty mountains of Donegal and Derry, altogether constitute this rural promenade so pleasing and picturesque [emphasis added] as to cover the timid cheek of Description with a blush of conscious incompetency when called by her country to the difficult task of imbuing the imagination of her reader with a correct resemblance of the beauties of the living scene.

20 A. Atkinson, Ireland in the Nineteenth Century … (1833), 257-85. Accessed at https://archive.org/details/irelandinninete00atkigoog/page/n276/mode/2up?q=broom

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These are the objects which grace the communication between Derry and The Farm and which constitute the principal features of the rich and picturesque landscape comprehended in the prospect from this seat. … [one notable view is as follows:] The larger or more open country which we have just attempted to describe, may be seen to equal or superior advantage from the loftier landscape above the house and from other elevated positions in the neighbourhood of the river; but that which THE ATTIC OF THE HOUSE commands, over the crystal bosom of the Foyle to the city of Derry, standing on a noble hill, is peculiarly its own. In a lofty and open prospect from a field in the demesne, considerably elevated above the house, (and which, as being devoted to the exercise of the troops of the garrison, should be called “the parade,”) you see a large tract of country before you, extending to the mountains, but in the view from the attic of the house, the eye passing through a close defile over the crystal surface of the Foyle, to the rich cluster of beauties in the city scene, grouped upon a noble hill which terminates the prospect …’ He notes a dense plantation of beech, fir and oak, planted 30 years ago, rather misshapen due to winds, and that the trees ‘constitute this seat a more eminently interesting in the scenery of the river and of the short road to Muff, than would have been possible had the place been destitute of wood; …’

The house and gardens of The Farm included ‘fancy flower knots, accommodated with nicely sanded walks, and taken in connection with the lofty parade (encircled with a light plantation) and with the house, garden, etc may be considered as constituting the tout ensemble of the home view.’ This is useful for understanding the gardens around Boom Hall at that time about which very little is known, given the close family and physical connections between the two demesnes.

In the description for Ballynagard in passing he notes approvingly Boom Hall and the 2 adjacent demesnes to the north: ‘in addition to the beauties of the Foyle, the Farm, and other objects already described, the distinguished seats of Broomhall [sic, i.e. Boom Hall], Brookhall, and Thornhill, enrich the succeeding prospect, upon one side; and a tract of country moderately elevated, and richly cultivated and improved, extends the whole way from the city of Derry to Ballynagard, upon the other.’ Similar views of the ‘romantic mountain-rocks of Magilligan’ connected with ‘the calm and chastened beauties of the river view.’ Perhaps the brevity of his descriptions in this passage resulted from him being unable to gain admission to these demesnes.

He makes an exposition of benefits of growing oak in this area (268-69), which is of relevance to Boom Hall because of the important surviving ancient oak pollards and later standards in the demesne. It would be useful to know if other similar oak survive in the vicinity.

Kilderry (p.279) was another Hart residence. It stood on a plain enclosed by trees, encircled by bog and water, much lower than Ballynagard and had no picturesque views out.

Bellemount (p.281) was noted and that Mr Miller built it.

Thornhill (p.282) was the seat of William Curry: ‘Considered as a lodge in the villa style, situated on a small demesne of 24 acres, it is an interesting feature of improvement on the shore road, ... approximates with Ballynagard, and commands a considerable proportion of the same prospect. The river Foyle washes the base of the demesne; and the mountains of Donegal and Magilligan are good

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objects in the front view. … neat and well-dressed garden, [which enjoys the land and water view which it commands above the general level of the scene].’

Greenhaw (p.283), west of the Culmore Road, north of Belmont lay, ‘much lower than the Farm … immediately above it, on the opposite side of the shore road. It embraces a neat new edifice and about 30 acres of demesne, ornamentally planted; and although the trees were but 6 years down when we saw the place, they had made a noble progress.’

East of the river at Coolkeiragh (pp.284-85) Major Young was about to build and plant a house on the summit or declivity of the hill which would enjoy views over Ballynagard and of the Donegal mountains, so that, ‘then Coolkeiragh will rank high among the splendid improvements on that section of the river which approximates with Derry; and which, in the scenery of Ireland, is perhaps only exceeded in beauty by the picturesque of Wicklow, Killarney and Slane.’ [emphasis added] Atkinson’s opinion of the demesnes and their ornamental value was clearly high.

Prehen House (pp. 292-93) is the only other river-side demesne close to Derry described by Atkinson, lying south of the City on the east bank of the River. It was the seat of Lieut-Col. Knox whose family had lived there since at least the early C18. Atkinson’s relatively brief entry notes ‘an excellent dwelling-house, and 200 acres of demesne … beautifully situated on the River Foyle, and commanding an interesting view of the city of Londonderry, and of divers gentleman’s seats beyond the river.’ This was the most extensive demesne he described; much has since been lost although the house and adjacent buildings survive.

21.3 DERRY DEMESNES IN COLBY OS MEMOIRS 1838 Colby’s description of Derry gives detailed socio economic information regarding the City and Liberties. This includes a section on, ‘Gentlemen’s Residences’ in which Boomhall is referred to as being in the ownership of the Earl of Caledon and the residence of the Bishop of Derry.21

Like Atkinson, the principal Gentlemen’s Seats were noted as chiefly along the west shore of the Foyle, but with only brief notes, chiefly on owners and occupiers. The main demesnes in order of reference, running northwards are: The Farm, Boom Hall, Brook Hall, Thorn Hill, Ballynagard. Belmont and The Cottage were referred to separately as nearby, then another group south of the City along the Road including Foyle Hill, Milton Lodge, The Grove, and then a further group of presumably ness notable residences including some near Boom Hall, e.g. Culmore Point, Troy House. The former Earl Bishop’s Casino was mentioned, occupied by Ross Smyth. Surprisingly there was no reference to Prehen House demesne.

Under General Appearance and Scenery, after the picturesque composition of the City, the main beauties were connected with the Foyle. Of particular note were the wooded pleasure grounds of the demesnes backed by the distant mountains of Inishowen and Benyevenagh, set within the rich

21 T. Colby, Ordnance Survey Memoir of Londonderry (1838), 206-07. Lt. Col Thomas Colby headed the Ordnance Survey of Ireland in the 1830s. As part of this an Ordnance Survey Memoir of Londonderry was published in 1838 and is commonly referred to as ‘Colby.’ It was intended as the first in a long series of similar books but the expense and time involved negated that intention. A similar publication, Lewis’s Topographical Dictionary of Ireland (1837) does not mention Boom Hall.

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and cultivated countryside. 21.4 GRIFFITH VALUATION OF BALLYNAGARD AND BALLYNASHALLOG TOWNLANDS, 1858 Griffith’s Valuation provides statistics on the occupants, freeholders and type of properties including areas and valuations. Boom Hall and the nearest demesnes were in Ballynashallog townland.

Lessor = landlord

The demesnes were listed from south to north as parcels: 14, 13, 12, 11, 10; 15 to north, west of main road. Baird was landlord of parcels 4, 9, 15 but not of Boom Hall where the Honourable the Irish Society were the landlords. John & Joseph Cooke were landlords of 5, 6a, 6c, 8. They were Baird’s executors and after 1862 leased Boom Hall demesne.

Transcription of Griffith Valuation of Ballynashallog 1858 (above) relating to demesnes on west bank of the River Foyle.

Parcel Demesne Name Immediate Lessor Occupant Acreage Content No. ARP 2 Spring Field Miss Young Jas McAuley 56.0.10 House offices land

10 Thorn Hill Rev. Henry Scott, Tenant William 33.1.25 House offices Leatham gatehouse land 11 North park of Brook Sir Robt Fergusson ? Edward Toy 43.3.15 House offices land Hall; parcel 11a Lodge in N Park 12 Brook Hall Lady Hill Saml Gilliland 95.3.25 House offices gatehouse land 13 Boom Hall Hon Irish Society Daniel Baird 134.0.11 House offices gatehouses land 14 The Farm Hon Irish Society Sir Robt 78.3.10 House offices Fergusson gatehouse land 15 Agricultural land Daniel Baird Saml Browne 7.3.15 House offices land

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In addition Ballynagard Townland was relevant as it contained Ballynagard demesne, another one in the string, immediately north of Thornhill: Parcel 12 George V Hart landlord, tenant William Campbell, House, offices, gatehouses, land, 2 labourers’s houses 70.3.30 but extended to north in different townland:

21.5 SUMMARY OF DEVELOPMENT OF NEARBY DEMESNES ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER FOYLE These above and similar sources indicate the high scenic value placed on the ensemble of demesnes along the banks of the Foyle, as the prestigious setting for the City.

Boom Hall demesne was one of this group of merchants’ villa demesnes of similar scale and complexity lining the west bank of the Foyle. Like Boom Hall many of these had origins in the post- 1689 Siege period, after which a grander house was built in the later C18/early C19 with further remodelling in the mid-late C19. Of these Brook Hall adjacent to the north of Boom Hall was even more extensive and complex in its demesne layout which continued to be developed into the C20, notably with the arboretum. It is the only one which survives as a single private residence with the demesne complete and in good condition.

Two other adjacent groups of villas to the Boom Hall string include one on the east bank of the Foyle, and another group of smaller demesnes and villa gardens west of the Culmore Road. These properties survive to varying degrees, depending on the level of later development, but the group to which Boom Hall belongs on the west bank of the river survives intact to a high degree, the main loss being The Farm at the south end and the southern one third of Boom Hall Demesne.

The following table is a preliminary gathering of relevant information as an initial comparison of these demesnes. It is based on sources both published and from the internet. Those in red are on the NI Historic Parks and Gardens Register. Further relevant detail of several comparable demesnes as presented by Atkinson in his descriptions published in 1833 is given below the table.

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Site & location Early demesne C18 Rebuilding C19 phases Original Lodges Notes C17/early C18 Area Acres West of Foyle running N along riverside; Townland parcel nos The Farm ? ?1770s for 110 1 c.1840 Gone. Sir Robert Alexander Ballynashallog Fergusons. Similar (Atkinson) gone Ferguson’s mother, Elizabeth, Griffith Valuation to Boom Hall. was the daughter of Robert Townland parcel Dean described Alexander of Boom Hall, i.e. a 14 house as a “… grandson. Demesne linked with square Georgian Boom Hall by private drive. house with noble Detailed description by Grecian portico, Atkinson 1833 and adjacent Pleasure ground’” Boom Hall Gunsland? c.1720 1770s; Atkinson c.1850 Baird; 134 2 both See Register description Drive Ballynashallog noted as ‘Broom- drive sycamores gone connected demesne with The Griffith Valuation Hall’ with Brook late C19/ early Farm. Hall canted bay to E. Townland parcel 13 Hall & Thorn Hill C20 Demesne reduced to 27 ha. (67 acres). Brook Hall Wray family, from c.1790 for Sir Sir George 142 2 See Register description House Ballynashallog the Hon the Irish George Fitzgerald Fitzgerald Hill 1st has canted bay to E. ‘Possibly Townland parcels Soc. House; by Hill who bought 1810-20, then North the most delicately elegant 11 & 12 1689 formal in late 1780s 1860 for Samuel pre- house of the neighbourhood … gardens, large (d.1839), M.P. Gilliland? 1830 well preserved landscape park grove, orchard in Derry, Governor Regency gone … overlooking the Foyle … one present walled of Trinidad. veranda; 2nd of the best preserved and most garden. Siege Reminiscent of 1880s (trees) South intriguing demesnes in the garrison for D. of Jas Alexander’s 1930s-60s 30 Lodge county.’ Calley, 2013 Berwick. Caledon House ha. arboretum c.1820 In Atkinson 1833. (Calley) for Cdr Frank Gilliland. Thorn Hill Late C17, pre 1880s 33-50 2 See Register description Large Ballynashallog 1830 1st pre- hulking mass of a house by Griffith Valuation 1858 Joseph Ballantine to designs of Turner and Babington for local Townland parcel 10 gone nd distiller Andrew Alexander 2 1885 Watt. The 3 houses known locally as Boom Hall, Brookhall and Alcohol. (Calley, 2013) Spring Field Present by 1858 Ballynashallog (Griffith) Griffith Valuation Townland parcel 02 Ballynagard By 1830 Atkinson 1833 100 2 Canted bay to E. Griffith 1858 Ballynagard Late 1850s ? for (Atkinson) 1830 & noted George Hart landlord, Griffith Valuation Hart family 1850 tenant Wm Campbell; House, Townland parcel 12 offices, gatehouses, 2 labourers’ houses 70.3.30; demesne extended to north in different townland. Kilderry House c.1770 General 1800-20 300 Canted bay to E in red brick, Co. Donegal ROI George Vaughan remodelling? (Atkinson) could be later. LB Hart (1752-1832) for

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Site & location Early demesne C18 Rebuilding C19 phases Original Lodges Notes C17/early C18 Area Acres celebrated General George military leader Vaughan Hart Group West of Culmore Road Bellmount/Belmont 25 See Register description (Atkinson) Fairy View 3 all gone Belle Vue 1 pre- 1830 gone Hampstead Hall Summer Hill

Troy 1 of Demesne gone, house survives. 1897 East of Foyle Gransha Lodge Replaced by asylum Enagh House By 1830 c.1860 1 lodge See Register description date? An excellent example of a Gone? landscape park in miniature (Register description) Coolkeiragh House 60 to be laid 1 gone Atkinson notes opposite out Ballynagard (Atkinson) Prehen Plantation house/ Rebuilt c.1740s 200 One of the most notable Victoria Road bawn. for Knox, possibly (Atkinson) demesnes south of the City, south of the city Rebuilt post- designed M broken up, much lost and 1660. Priestley house converted to flats. Calley, pp. 433-38

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BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 22 APPENDIX 5 REGISTER OF HISTORIC PARKS AND DEMESNES OF SPECIAL HISTORIC INTEREST (NIHE)

BOOM HALL, County Londonderry (AP DERRY AND STRABANE 06) L-003 REGISTERED GRADE B Much denuded late 18th century landscape park occupying sloping ground in Ballynashallog townland above the west bank of the River Foyle, south of Brook Hall (L-004) and 2 miles (3.2km) north east of the walled city of Derry. Originally 124 acres (50ha), the park is new reduced to 66 acres (27ha), a substantial portion on the south having been lost in the early 1980s to the building of the Foyle Bridge and Madams Bank Road and another portion in the north-east lost for the building of the Foyle Hospice Day Centre. The present austere classical villa (HB 01/25/004A), was destroyed by fire in the 1970s and is now a gaunt ruin; it was built around 1772 for Robert Alexander (1722-90), elder brother of James Alexander, first Earl of Caledon (1730-1802) and derives its name from the nearby boom placed across the river to block the relief of the city in 1689. Prior to this the land here had been part of the Hon. Irish Society's holdings granted to that body as part of the Plantation settlement. During the famous siege the land south of the present grounds was occupied by the star- shaped 'Charles Fort' fortress, which guarded the west side of the boom (site lost to road and housing development). According to the 1690 map drawn up by Captain Francis Neville, a small house with what appears to be outbuildings is shown within the vicinity to the west of the fort, but little is known of this or any other dwellings that occupied the site prior to the later 18th century. The land was leased to the Alexander family at some stage following the Williamite War, possibly to John Alexander (d.1747) of Ballyclose, Co. Londonderry and Gunsland, Co. Donegal or his son Nathaniel (1689- 1761). It was the latter's second son, Robert Alexander, who decided to build a house here, though he may have owned it in conjunction with his younger brother James Alexander, 1st Earl of Caledon from 1790. Probably designed by local architect Michael Priestly (d.1777), it was a rectangular symmetrical block of two-storeys above a low basement and had a bold projecting stone cornice and a relatively high hipped roof. Its entrance front had seven bays with a three-bay central breakfront, while its rere (facing the lough) was dominated by a broad full-height canted-bay with flanking bay each side. The front breakfront and rere bay are entirely of ashlar, while the remaining walls are of coursed stone rubble, probably originally rendered, framed with ashlar quoins and window architraves. In the 19th century a projecting porch with Tuscan order columns was added, leading into a cubic central hall. To the north-west of the house lies the partially ruined stable yard, c.1770, also probably by Priestly, with extension of c.1850 (Listed HB 01/25/004B). This yard is enclosed on all sides by linked two-storey ranges built in rubble with cut-sandstone dressings; its entrance is in the south range where there is a formally arranged frontage with a central segmental-headed carriage opening, flanked by similar openings all with an oculus over. Adjacent to this lies a long 18th century rectangular brick and stone walled garden (1.7acres/0.69ha), probably contemporary with the 1770s Hall and stable block; a small walled garden (0.7 acres/0.28ha) on its south side was replaced c.1850 by a garden enclosed to the south by a ha-ha. To the north of the walled garden c.1850 an L-shaped unwalled slip garden and orchard (1.6 acres/0.64ha) was added and subsequently enlarged to 2.5 acres/1ha) in the late 19th century. While the buildings were impressive, the volume of tree planting was comparatively modest, with very narrow tree screens around the demesne perimeter, save for the original entrance in the south-west corner. Most planting in fact was to the west and south west of the house, screening the house from the yards and walled garden, and in the meadows bordering the Foyle. After 1790 the property was inherited by Robert's second son, Henry Alexander MP (1763-1818), who subsequently sold or transferred the lease to James Du Pre Alexander (1777-1839), 2nd Earl of Caledon. For several decades the house and demesne was sub-let to the Dean of Derry, Thomas Bunbury Gough and later William Ponsonby (1772-1853), Bishop of Derry. About 1849 it was sold by James Du Pre Alexander, third Earl of Caledon (1812-55) to Daniel Baird (1795-1862), who passed it to his widow Barbara Baird (1806-80), who leased it. On her death it passed to her grandson, Daniel Maturin-Baird (1849-1924), and his son, Edgar Maturin-Baird (fl.1924-46), both of whom also leased it. In 1949 it was sold to Michael Henry McDevitt (d. 1969). The house had been abandoned in the 1960s and became a ruin after a fire in the early 1970s. Part of the demesne was lost to the building of the Foyle Bridge and Madams Bank Road in the early 1980s; south of the latter the former Culmore-road demesne avenue, lined with mature sycamore trees, has survived wedged between the new Mount Pleasant and Gleneagles Housing estates and retains its gate piers on the Culmore-road (Listed HB 0/25/004C). In 1996 what remained of the grounds of Boom Hall were purchased by Derry City Council. Land in the north-west corner of the demesne was subsequently lost with the building of the Foyle Hospice Day Centre opened in 2001. The east area of the demesne, notably near the river and stable ranges, retain many fine mature trees. SMR: LDY 14:41 cropmark, 14:45, 46, 47, 48, 49 & 50 enclosures. Private.

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Walled garden, main entrance in south wall next to stables, exterior (left) interior (right).

Walled garden, south-east corner where stone exterior alters to brick leading round to south side.

Walled garden, south wall, interior (left) and interior with doorway into flower garden and C20 structure (right).

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Kitchen garden, north wall interior, with entrances from the Slip Garden.

Kitchen garden, north wall exterior, with entrances from the Slip Garden.

Kitchen garden, north wall construction in damaged section (left); former north yard wall forming west wall of Slip Garden, with modern house gable (right).

Late C20 house in former north yard, view from main drive, from north-west (left) and south (right).

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Stable block, south front overlooking main drive and The Grove to left.

Ha-ha wall around south-east side of flower garden. The wall to the west side has largely gone but the ditch survives.

King James’s Well and detail (B O’Donnell).

The so-called Boom Stone, possibly the anchor of the boom in the 1689 siege. It lies on the slope south of the Well. The left-hand image was taken some time ago (B. O’Donnell); the right-hand image taken August 2020.

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Riverside wall, inner face of fragment on demesne side.

Front Avenue drive, entrance off Culmore Road, Listed. The trees behind the wing wall do not have TPOs but formed part of the avenue planting of sycamores which do.

Front Avenue drive, piers, exterior (left), interior of north and south piers (right). This is Council property.

Wing walls, north (left) and south with lodge replacement (right). The sycamores behind do not have TPOs but formed part of the avenue planting. This is not Council property.

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BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 24 APPENDIX 7 GAZETTEER OF SELECTED NOTABLE TREES This gazetteer covers a selection of notable trees in the demesne that were surveyed during a walk-over survey on 20 August 2020 to establish girth and species. It provides an indication of the tree population but is far from complete. See Appendix 8 below for discussion of the ages of ancient oaks in Ireland. Location Type Girth at Notes on location and specimen 1.5m (m) (GBH) Area 1 Horse Chestnut 6.2m At N entrance to forecourt from stables, N of back drive. House & (est) Woodland Trust i.d. 2739, measured at 1.5m as 5.9m girth in 2007 Pleasure Grounds: Grove/ Forecourt

Oak 3.2 Fine standard near stables. Possibly C18 or C19.

Oak 4.0 Pollard Oak 6.6 Pollard on mound; believed to be hybrid sessile and English oak Quercus x rosacea; noted by Woodland Trust i.d.2741, measured 6.45m girth at 0.8m high 2007

Oak 7.1 3 trunks, fused at bottom, either originated as coppice or three specimens in single hole; on mound; seems to be shown as three specimens very close together on 1830 OS; difficult to age because of form. believed to be hybrid sessile and English oak Quercus x rosacea; Woodland Trust i.d. 2740, measured 7.05m GBH 2007

Oak 3.7 Oak 4.2 One of a group of 3 standard specimens with the two below in W corner

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BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 Location Type Girth at Notes on location and specimen 1.5m (m) (GBH) Oak 3.7 One of a group of 3 standard specimens with oak and beech in W corner

Beech 3.45 One of a group of 3 standard specimens with 2 oak in W corner

Wellingtonia no data Grouped with Irish Yew immediately in front of front door on W side of forecourt

Irish Yew no data Grouped with Wellingtonia immediately in front of front door on W side of forecourt See photo above Irish Yew no data Grouped with Wellingtonia immediately in front of front door on W side of forecourt See photo above Sycamore no data Fine specimen immediately south of Wellingtonia/yew group at W edge of forecourt

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Area 2 Oak 5.2 Pollard at break of slope, southernmost of a line of 3; part of a line shown on 1830 1st edn Slopes OS; believed to be hybrid sessile and English oak Quercus x rosacea; Woodland Trust i.d. South & 2734, measured 4.77m GBH 2007 east of Hall

Oak 4.9 Pollard at break of slope middle of a line of 3; part of a line shown on 1830 1st edn OS; believed to be hybrid sessile and English oak Quercus x rosacea; Woodland Trust i.d. 2742, measured 4.62m GBH 2007

Oak 4.0 Pollard at break of slope northernmost of a line of 3; part of a line shown on 1830 1st edn OS; believed to be hybrid sessile and English oak Quercus x rosacea; Woodland Trust i.d. 2735, measured 3.97m GBH 2007 (LH tree in photo)

Oak 6.4 Pollard at break of slope near to north of but separate from line of 3 above; shown on 1830 1st edn OS; believed to be hybrid sessile and English oak Quercus x rosacea; Woodland Trust i.d. 2736, measured 5.68m GBH 2007

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BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 Location Type Girth at Notes on location and specimen 1.5m (m) (GBH) Area 2 Horse Chestnut 4.8 One of a line of 3 just outside ha-ha; shown on 1830 1st edn OS but not on 2nd edn OS (RH Slopes specimen in photo) north of Hall

Horse Chestnut 4.9 One of a line of 3 just outside ha-ha; shown on 1830 1st edn OS but not on 2nd edn OS See photo above (middle specimen) Horse Chestnut 4.25 One of a line of 3 just outside ha-ha; shown on 1830 1st edn OS but not on 2nd edn OS See photo above (LH specimen) Sweet Chestnut 6.0 One of the specimens lining the former north walk to the river shown on 1830 1sts edn OS & 2nd edn OS; Woodland Trust i.d. 2909, measured 5.67m GBH 2007

Beech no data Specimen at upper, W end of stream north of King James’s Well.

Mixed no data Mature trees along line of former walk including horse chestnut, lime, sweet chestnut, specimens sycamore Area 4 Park Specimens by 2.45 These replace avenue shown on 1st edn OS (1830) which was more thickly planted by 2nd Main Drive: farmyard, S of edn (1848-52); probably planted in late C19/ early C20 at the same time as the Front selected drive Avenue avenue sycamores

2.3 At W end, S of 2.9 Photo shows grouping. drive

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BOOM HALL HISTORIC LANDSCAPE ASSESSMENT SR Historic Environment Ltd November 2020 Location Type Girth at Notes on location and specimen 1.5m (m) (GBH) 1.8 3.0 2.45 Area 5 Sycamores at 2.35 An avenue is not shown along Front Avenue drive on 2nd edn (1848-52). These specimens Front NW end by were probably planted at same time as those along Main Drive in late C19/early C20. avenue Culmore Rd: Photo shows grouping. 100 specimens alongside the former drive now have TPOs. Boomhall Lane: Several specimens behind the gateway walls were part of the same scheme and do not selected have TPOs but should be designated too. sycamores

2.9 2.4 2.5 3.2

Specimens 2.8 Tagged no. 24 towards centre:

2.25 Tagged no. 34 2.4 Tagged no. 35

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25 APPENDIX 8 ANCIENT OAK TREES IN IRELAND, T REEVES-SMYTH 22 Terence Reeves-Smyth has kindly offered commentary and information below on ancient oak trees in Ireland relevant to the pollard oak specimens at Boom Hall noted above in Appendix 7. This indicates that those at Boom Hall are probably C17 in origin.

Ireland does not have the large number of venerable trees found in England - a reflection of the history & that 'ancient woodland' was not really a major feature of Ireland. The oldest woods/ trees in Ireland are always associated with demesnes.

Oaks grow rather larger and quicker than in England and growth patterns are subject to local conditions. The oldest oaks are C17. Specimens in Belvoir Park south of Belfast have been dendro dated to the early C17 as have some in Shane's Castle where 'Turner's Oak' (Quercus x turneri) was measured by the Tree Council at 3.47m girth x 22.5m tall. Other large oaks in NI measured by the Tree Council include one (Q. robur) at Fairy Glen, Rostrevor, Co Down, 7.39m girth @ 0.8m height x 24.7m tall; a Q. robur at Tynan, Co. Armagh measured 5.88m girth x 37m tall); large sessile oaks at Baronscourt include one girth 8.35m @ 1.1m height x 24.2m tall. Evergreen Holm oaks tend to grow quicker than the natives; one at Brook Hall measures 5.54m girth @ 0.9 height x 16.6m tall. Also at Brook Hall 2 common yews may be contemporary with the house shown on the early maps.

Professor Mike Baillie set up the Dendrochronology laboratory in the Queen's University Belfast Palaeoecology Centre in the 1970s. As part of the data collection he visited Shane's Castle in the 1980s, with a fine landscape park and large oaks. Ring counts of felled oak gave the earliest date of 1649. As Baillie noted in 2005, in the following three decades of dendro sample collection no older standing oaks were found anywhere in Ireland, thus it was obvious to him that nearly all the fine oaks were planted by landowners in their demesnes after 1660 and mostly after the mid-C18.23

In 2002 Baillie measured some of the impressive demesne oaks at Belvoir Park near Belfast on the Lagan Valley. Here 130 native oaks with a single trunk were noted with girths of 3m or greater, and 55 oaks with girths of 4-6m and three with girths of just over 6m. This made them some of the most impressive in Ireland. The largest recorded oaks in Ireland are one at Baronscourt, Co Tyrone at 8.35m (sessile) and another at Stradbally, Co Leix with a girth of 9.9 (robur). Members of the Palaeoecology Lab collected slices from seven large stumps in various locations at Belvoir, hoping to break their record of 1649. They did - one of the stumps produced a date of 1642 - a new record for Ireland! Other early dates were 1662 and 1722 - others were later. All of this demonstrates that a big oak in Ireland may not be as old as one might like to think and they are not the long lived tree of Irish legend.

22 Pers. comm. 03 September 2020. 23 In A Treasured Landscape: The Heritage of Belvoir Park, edited Ben Simon (2005). 154