The poor fetish

The poor fetish

1 The poor fetish

For decades luxury fashion chav, roadman, delinquent be defined as individuals brands (Burberry, Armani, or threatening, the stigma from one culture mimicking and Versace) and sports- surrounding sportswear was aspects of another culture. wear (Nike, Reebok and clear. If you wore a track- Appropriation only adopts Fila) have become staples of suit you were subjected to elements of a marginalised poorer urban communities hoodie-phobic social hyste- culture which are perceived in the UK. However, their ria. People crossing to the as desirable, whilst ignor- recent surge in popularity other side of the pavement ing elements which are has shifted opinions associ- when they saw you and fundamental to under- ated with this working class your friends was just part of standing that culture. Such aesthetic. These brands are our reality. However, these as the oppression many of an example of how gentrifi- stereotypes have recently these cultures face. This is cation has taken place in the been subverted, tracksuits problematic because the fashion industry. and a pair of Airmax has appropriated culture is often become stylish not laugh- discriminated for aspects The problem is that the able. The same people of their culture, despite the working class aesthetic and sporting the working class same aspects being stolen identity has been ripped aesthetic now are the ones by people who seek to from its original contexts who would not have been popularise it. and altered in a way that caught dead in a tracksuit acceptable to the middle a few years ago. Looking Class appropriation is the class. The working class poorer than you are is cool social counterpart. Elements aesthetic is stripped of its now. of the lower class are stolen culture and meaning and and adopted in middle and given an economic value. Looking upper class culture, whilst ignoring the social and Growing up in Nottingham, poorer than political issues. This furthers brands were important to the class divide and discon- everyone I knew. From Nike you are is nect between classes. Airmax 95 trainers to Gucci messenger bags (‘pouches’ cool now. The lower class despite we called them), everyone facing financial issues wanted to prove their worth. I particularly noticed this created their own identity We would be envy of a life of once I started university. through clothing however luxury so to satisfy this we For the first time in my life, they were unable to do so would imitate the lifestyle I was now surrounded by without being judged and through clothing. Coming a different demographic of discriminated by people from a deprived area, cloth- people. It was a common from more privileged back- ing was a form of escape for occurrence to see students grounds. This discrimination us. in Kappa, Fila, Cham - created the derogatory pion, Diodora and Ellesse. term ‘Chav’ which stood for Clothing was Wearing vintage or retro council house and violent. sportswear has become a a form of fashion statement for upper council house class students to go against escape for us their own privileged status. and violent Class is not a costume. We did not have cash for Whilst some students enjoy The working class hatred high end fashion labels the creativity, status and heavily gained traction however we made our own comedy of the working and continued to further fashion standards to follow class aesthetic, what are degrade them. This birthed with what you could afford. they actively doing for the the working class stereo- As long as you had a track- working class by appropri- type consisting of tracksuits, suit, a pouch and your Air ating their identity. Whilst gold jewellery and designer Forces weren’t creased, you they get praise from friends statement pieces. The were fine. for their outfits, urban city media started to portray youths are denied freedom this narrative which caused Tracksuits have always and opportunity for dress- high end brands to be asso- dominated most of my ing in the very same outfits. ciated with the ‘chav’ image wardrobe. This caused me and give the brand negative to be negatively stereo- A common social debate in affiliations. type throughout my youth, today’s society is cultural whether I was called a appropriation. This can 2 The poor fetish

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The most notorious exam- Nike Airmax are fashionable However, as a designer I ple is Burberry. Its signature if you are white and upper would love to incorporate beige check pattern was middle class but chavvy my background and expe- predominantly worn by the if you are anything else. riences into my work. I am lower class and became so The imitation of aesthetic proud of my background popular counterfeit prod- from the working class just and heritage and want ucts were sold on market comes off as condescend- my work and ideas to feel stalls across Britain. Tabloid ing and encourages further authentic to who I am. But jokes further reinforced discrimination against those in the process will I also fall Burberry’s associations with of lower class. into the trap of contributing chav culture. Before long to class appropriation and one of Britain’s most pres- The counterargument is that glamourisation of poverty. tigious fashion brands was the working class appropri- This confliction is still some- facing a crippling identity, ation could be considered thing I am still trying to solve crisis and needed to action appreciation. The fashion as a designer. in order to regain its loss industry drawing inspiration of sales. In 2004, Burberry from working class culture To conclude the fash - removed the tartan check proves that as a culture we ion industry will continue baseball caps which were have created a strong and to reinvent itself and will the staple of chav culture. desirable identity. Youths continue to do so. People Furthermore, they decided from less affluent areas are should be able to dress and to only place the iconic still creative and confident wear as they please, but check design in the lining with their own ideas and do more attention needs to of most of its clothing. Fast not need the approval of the go into understanding the forward to today, Burberry industry to validate them. privilege of this. Of course, successfully regained its Some brands have funded people should be allowed customer base however and supported urban move- to wear whatever they want, this is because the working ments and given the urban but more attention needs to class aesthetic is desira- youth a voice and outlet be put into understanding ble now. They have even to express themselves. An the privilege of this. Those brought back the infamous example of this is Adidas of the upper class need to baseball cap with a price tag which has aligned itself see that being able to dress of £250. with anti-establishment in the same clothes as those culture and supported the who are not as respected Besides from Burberry, grime movement. Making in our society is a liberty. other brands have managed documentaries, collaborat- They are not oppressed to commodify working class ing with urban youth and and restricted by the same culture due to the rise in gifting clothing. social and political implica- popularity of streetwear. tions and therefore have a Another counterargument is duty of responsibility to be commodify sometimes behind the idea less ignorant. is young creatives who were from underprivileged back- Images: working Sambo, Terence (2017, April 29). South grounds who want to reflect East Boys. Retrieved from https:// class culture their personal experiences pausemag.co.uk/2017/04/pause-edito- in their industry and want rial-south-east-boys/ There has been an upsurge to inject authenticity into for vintage streetwear their work. However, in this and the fashion trend has process do they fall in the received a lot of posi - trap of fetishization? Does tive attention. Kappa, Fila, it matter if working class Champion – these brands designers create it if upper are an example of how class are still the target gentrification has taken audience? place in fashion. The price for these brands has been This is an ongoing conflic- increased drastically, tion I face as a designer from making it harder for the poor an underclass background. to dress in what is firstly I have first-hand experience theirs. The working class do of class discrimination and not share the same privilege feel strongly against the with the current streetwear class appropriation in fash- trend. Kappa tracksuits and ion and design industry. 6 The poor fetish

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