GUIDE TO WASHINGTON D.C.

EAT SWEET SPOTS FOR A SUGAR FIX DISCOVER MIDDLEBURG’S HORSE COUNTRY SEE HIT MUSICALS, BOLD DRAMAS

OCTOBER 2017 wheretraveler.com OYSTER PERPETUAL EXPLORER II

           

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Crystal City, , and 7th Street NW www.legalseafoods.com ©STEVE HEAP/SHUTTERSTOCK and country charms. boasts amixofcity Middleburg, Virginia, Bake Shop. ©Abby Jiu Sweets from Buttercream 22 with mainstreets andhorses. Middleburg, Virginia, charms 20 TOWN AND D.C. digsdessert 18 HOW SWEET IT IS Inspiring imagesby usandyou 17 #WHEREDC this hotneighborhood. what to eat, drink,doandbuyin Adams Morgan: 16‘HOOD THE IN local food andtheater. The best ofwhat’s trending in 12INSIDER these must-do events. Save thedate andcheckout 08CALENDAR the citythismonth. Amazing ways to connect with 5 TOP 06 64 04 02 点、高档购物场所和地方餐饮 专为中国旅行人士选择的文化景 ON THE COVER COUNTRY

41 26 50 30 ASK THE EXPERT EDITOR‘S NOTE THE FIX

城市探索指南 Explore Sights Food Shop

Our picks for 60 58 52 54

Maps Well Be Scene Art October October Where Washington, D.C. Where Washington, D.C. seizethestay wheretraveler.com/ other local heroes. sician ChuckBrown and Chili Bowl honoringmu- like theoneatBen’s discover colorful murals the beaten path,you’ll but ifyou venture off is hometo iconic sites, Of course thecapital city 2 us with connect

WHERE this commemorative glass. who can celebrate withapintin in theMarineCorps Marathon, starting withmyfriendsrunning rich history andtraditions. I’m ings thatrepresent Washington’s needs withsophisticated offer- IconsDC, to satisfymygift-giving unique andbeautifulkeepsakes, been introduced to apurveyor of ahead. I’mdelighted to have events special fi that season the ll thinking abouttheholidays and As we stroll into fall, Istart October 2017 Publisher, Where Washington, D.C.

I OCTOBER 2017 OCTOBER

Stephanie Davari

the acclaimed local vineyards. Cheers to fall! to Cheers vineyards. local acclaimed the don’t some of and forget visit saddle, to the hop in You, youth. can too, of my horse-obsessed part where agood Ispent Virginia, Middleburg, cally specifi country, out the to trip day a - take We also pie). Bar’s crack Milk (hello, we say,dare addictive and, tempting most some of the we survey issue, this In too. attention, get desserts dishes; savory But it’s about hot spots. not all Michelin-starred and openings for up buzzy line patrons Hungry on fi here is scene lately, dining the you know re. D.C. out in of eating you’ve pleasure If the had Editor, Where Washington, D.C. Brooke Sabin @wheredc cow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg St. Rome, cow, Paris, bul, London, Madrid, Milan, Mos- Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg Victoria, Toronto,Ottawa, Vancouver, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Sydney Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. Louis, St. Seattle, Francisco, San San Diego, Phoenix/Scottsdale, (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, County Orange Oahu, York, New Orleans, New Paul, neapolis/St. Los Maui, Angeles, Miami, Min- berine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, napolis, Jacksonville/St. Septem- Chicago,Charlotte, Dallas, India- Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, at at online us visiting by trip next your for ahead plan or cities, following the of any visit you when us for places around the world. Look 50 than more in hotels leading 4,000 over in distributed and 1936 fi in magazines published rst of inter an is network national EUROPE AUSTRALIA ASIA UNITED STATES wheretraveler.com Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore CANADA IN THE WORLD THE IN Berlin, Budapest, Istan- Budapest, Berlin, Brisbane, Melbourne, Calgary, Alaska, Atlanta, . Where Where

COURTESY ICONSDC WHERE YOUR ® YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936

FASHION GURU Julie Kent WASHINGTON, D.C. ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, THE WASHINGTON BALLET PLOTS HER NEXT PUBLISHER Stephanie Davari EDITOR Brooke Sabin “My hopes for COURSE ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION TWB include ACCOUNT MANAGER Jeryl Parade CIRCULATION & MARKETING MANAGER Irena Laster WHERE THE STORES ARE building an inter- national reputation EDITORIAL & DESIGN REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Leigh Harrington AMERICAN GIRL of excellence.” ART DIRECTOR Dusty Martin CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Amy Alipio, Jennifer Barger APPLE MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS BLOOMINGDALE’S Q: As you start your second MVP | EXECUTIVE COACH season with TWB, can PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler you tell us a bit about the CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly GUCCI VICE PRESIDENT OF AUDIENCE Kurt Caywood direction in which you’re VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen LORD & TAYLOR taking the company? VICE PRESIDENT, INTERNAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT LOUIS VUITTON A: My hopes for TWB Q: When you and your Karen Rodriguez REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES Kristen Standish MACY’S include expanding the husband [associate artistic DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson repertoire, incorporating director Victor Barbee] NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco MADEWELL live musical accompani- want a special night out in MVP | CREATIVE MICHAEL KORS ment to all of our perfor- D.C., where do you go? CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson mances (a given in any A: Honestly, we love to SENIOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret Martin Jane Frey great ballet company), stay at home. (Victor is a DESIGN DIRECTOR UNIQLO DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla maintaining dedication great cook!) So dinner al- CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt ZARA to arts education through most always includes our MVP | NATIONAL SALES our renowned school and children. But Fiola Mare WITH OVER  SHOPS & RESTAURANTS VICE PRESIDENT, INTEGRATED/DIGITAL SALES Rebekah Valberg building a national and and Fig & Olive are chic, VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL MARKETING Adeline Tafuri Jurecka international reputation elegant and delicious. SENIOR DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL OPERATIONS Bridget Duffie 706.821.6663 of excellence that we DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL SALES Liza Meneades should expect in our Q: When you travel, what’s MANAGER, INTEGRATED NATIONAL SALES David Gately

city. the first thing you do at MVP | PUBLICATION SERVICES your destination? PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Kris Miller Q: What’s the best part A: The answer depends PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER Cher Wheeler DIGITAL IMAGING Erik Lewis about your job? on the reason for the A: There are many great travel. For work, the first MVP | & TECHNOLOGY rewards, but for me, DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton thing is finding a water TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER at the top is watching source. (Is tap ok? Or is Tony Thorne-Booth the dancers fulfill and bottled water needed?) E-mails for all of the above except contributors: surpass their potential [email protected] and experience moments Q: If you could wake up in the studio and on the anywhere tomorrow, stage that will impact the where would that be? A: rest of their lives. A peaceful place MVP | WASHINGTON, D.C. with food, shelter and 1720 I (Eye) St. NW, Suite 600, Washington, D.C. 20006 Q: Do you have any pre- my family. 202.463.4550, 202.463.4553 (fax) performance rituals you do MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS with the company? CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III A: PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV Nope. Early in my ca- BEST TIP CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Derek J. May reer I thought it unwise Barcelona, Raku, The Grilled Oyster Company, to start any pre-perfor- Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris mance ritual that I didn’t La Piquette, Cactus Cantina Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Octobera, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. For Your Complimentary Visitor Rewards Booklet, Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. think I could sustain for and Café Deluxe are great Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, Visit The Concierge Desk On Level 1, Near Macy’s but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions.

many years. (I was right!) neighborhood restaurants. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. ALEXANDER ©DEAN ON METRO’S SILVER LINE | TysonsCornerCenter.com 4 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 OCTOBER 2017

WASHINGTON D.C.

1 Take a Hike Trails at Virginia’s Great Falls Park (shown) give dramatic views on the as it plunges through Mather Gorge.

2 See a Show As theater season gets into full swing, curtains rise and lights go up on stages all over.

3 Hoist a Mug Prost-worthy spots, like Café Berlin on , draw patrons for Oktober- fest-style imbibing.

4 Snap Some Shots Think the cherry trees are only springtime beauties? At the , capture their striking fall foliage.

5 Get Spooked To explore D.C.’s creepy side, start in George- town at the infamous

“Exorcist” steps. BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©JON Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

N'S COMMITTEE/EVA CAMACHO-SANCHEZ COMMITTEE/EVA N'S October at a Glance

Oct. 12 Oct. 6-7 Opening of The Wharf Smithsonian Craft2Wear Just a few blocks south of the and More than 60 national artists Monuments, D.C.’s waterfront is getting a major showcase wearable designs upgrade to the tune of good eats, chic stays and artsy at this show and sale. Find venues. The highly anticipated 24-acre project will clothing, jewelry and acces- boast 20 restaurants from acclaimed chefs like Mike sories to elevate your own Isabella and Fabio Trabocchi as well as three hotels, closet, or get your holiday apartment buildings and The Anthem—a magnifi - shopping done early this cent 6,000-capacity concert hall. To top it all off , The season with unique fi nds. Wharf will feature a water taxi system that conve- Tickets: $13. National Build- niently provides access to and Virginia. ing Museum, 401 F St., NW,

www.wharfdc.com 202.633.1000. WOME SMITHSONIAN COURTESY WHARF; THE COURTESY TOP) (FROM

8 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017

IN OCTOBER

The Washington Ballet Oct. 4-8 The ballet opens its season at The Kennedy Center with “Russian Masters” —a series of works that pays tribute to the influencers in the art of ballet. www.kennedy-center.org

All Things Go Fall Classic Oct. 6-8 This music fest at Union Market features big names like Foster the People and Young Thug. www.allthings gofallclassic.com

Taste of DC Oct. 7-8 Experience Restaurant Row, Wine Walk and Oktoberfest at this culinary celebration. www.thetasteofdc.org

Chris Rock Oct. 18-21 MGM National hosts the funny man himself. www.mgmnational- harbor.com

Boo at the Zoo Oct. 14 Oct. 24-29 Oct. 20-22 Smithsonian National Zoo Freer | Sackler Horse Show features family-fun treats, tricks and entertainment. Reopening One of the most prestigious equestrian nationalzoo.si.edu events in the country, the Washington Inter- The wait is over. The beautiful national Horse Show features Olympic-level Fall Harvest Family Days Freer|Sackler Gallery, celebrating competitors gunning for glory in high-stakes Oct. 21-22 Asian culture, reopens its with a jumping competitions. Capitol One Arena, Fall-themed, 18th-century festival of Asian art, food and cultures. 601 F St., NW, 202.525.3679. era activities await at this The IlluminAsia event allows patrons Pioneer farm. to experience the East through art www.mountvernon.org demonstrations, a food market and per- formances by the Silk Road Ensem- Vermeer ble—and that’s just out of doors. Inside Oct. 22-Jan. 21 the galleries, visitors find immersive The exhibits works by Johannes activities and innovative exhibits, and, Vermeer and other painters Actor-comedian Chris Rock after sunset, lanterns and light displays. of the Dutch Golden Age. comes to The Theater at PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE GOES CREDIT PHOTO National Mall, 202.633.4880. www.nga.gov DIALLO ©DELPHINE (OPPOSITE) SHOW; HORSE INTERNATIONAL WASHINGTON COURTESY GALLERY; SACKLER M. ARTHUR COURTESY TOP) (FROM MGM National Harbor.

10 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 11

More tasty stops on Carpe DC’s Georgetown tour

Fried Green Tomatoes Martin’s Tavern Look for the marked booths where presi- dents from JFK to LBJ have sat and noshed. 1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.333.7370 CAM/SHUTTERSTOCK

Pita Perfection Falafel Inc. This neighborhood newbie serves “food for good” to help refu- EXPLORE gees worldwide. 1210 Potomac St. NW, STROLL IN, EAT UP 202.333.4265 Discovering neighborhoods through their dishes

INSPIRED BY MEMORABLE MEALS on their world travels, Mary Collins and Stefan Woehlke (above) founded Carpe DC Food Tours, which take small groups through Washington’s foodie epicenters, such as Shaw and 14th Street. Woehlke hopes participants “have fun, are entertained and learn Tofu/Pork Sandwich something new,” he says. And, of course, get their fill of local fare. The duo’s Simply Banh Mi Owned by siblings, newest zone of exploration is actually D.C.’s oldest. The Georgetown ramble this Vietnamese café reveals a rich past, from the colonial days as a major port for tea and tobacco offers the classic baguettes with vegan to the mid-20th century’s gentrification. (Fun fact: Busy and halal options. 1624 Wisconsin Ave. was once a Native American trail.) Stops include both historic sites—church- NW, 202.333.5726 es, the 1865 market building, a house where JFK lived—and indie eateries For more great tours like Patisserie Poupon (more at right). The community-minded pair donates a in the city, visit portion of ticket proceeds to local charity. See carpedcfoodtours.com. wheretraveler.com ©ORHAN (OPPOSITE) SABIN; ©BROOKE MEDIA; ©FATBACK SABIN; ©BROOKE TOURS; FOOD DC CARPE COURTESY TOP) (FROM Carpe DC Food Tours now takes hungry history buffs through Georgetown. 12 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017

#wheredc FIND THE BEST IN ADAMS MORGAN ONE BLOCK AT A TIME A COLLAGE OF INSPIRING IMAGES, THROUGH OUR LENS AND YOURS

@wheredc A buzzy new addition to CityCenterDC? @kidfriendlydc Yes, the National Mall is an iconic Fruitive, a certifi ed-organic fast-casual restaurant site, but it was also a good spot for eclipse view- In this melting-pot zone, Long known as a destina- with tasty dishes like this Green Vitality bowl. ing—just steps from the Air and Space Museum. diversity rules. Diners tion for the college crowd, choose from global cui- Adams Morgan also has sines, including authentic upscale watering holes. At Brazilian (in the shade of Roofers Union, beer buffs faux palms) and Cedric find selections on tap, Maupillier’s comfort-food on cask and in the bottle, French (at Mintwood while Jack Rose offers a se- Place). Inventive American riously impressive whiskey is the focus at Michelin- list. Can’t decide between starred Tail Up Goat. coffee or cocktails? Duck  The Grill from into Tryst for some of both. Ipanema 1858 Columbia  Jack Rose Dining Road NW, 202.986.0757, Saloon 2007 18th St. NW, thegrillfromipanema.com 202.588.7388, jackrose  Mintwood Place diningsaloon.com 1813 Columbia Road NW,  Roofers Union 202.234.6732, 2446 18th St. NW, mintwoodplace.com 202.232.7663, roofers  Tail Up Goat uniondc.com 1827 Adams Mill Road NW,  Tryst 202.986.9600, 2459 18th St. NW, tailupgoat.com 202.232.5500, trystdc.com

You’d be hard pressed to You can’t miss rowdy blues find a chain store here. bar Madam’s Organ—just Instead, shoppers head look for the busty redhead. to indie spots like the There’s also live music (and CakeRoom for indulgent a record shop) at Songbyrd. sweets or Urban Dwell for At Perry’s, the Sunday drag whimsical home decor. brunch gets raves.  CakeRoom  Madam’s Organ 2006 18th St. NW, 2461 18th St. NW, 202.450.4462, 202.667.5370, cakeroombakery.com madamsorgan.com  Urban Dwell  Perry’s Restaurant 1837 Columbia Road NW, 1811 Columbia Road NW, 202.558.9087, 202.234.6218, perrysam.com urbandwelldc.com  Songbyrd 2475 18th St. NW, @robertsimageo In southeast D.C., hip Yards Park @wanderlust2traveldust Even the Food Network's (Clockwise from top) 202.450.2917, features a boardwalk along the Guy Fieri had to stop at Metro 29, serving coffee Lamb ribs at Tail Up Goat; songbyrddc.com and a visually striking pedestrian bridge. and classic diner dishes for more than 20 years. D.C. souvenirs from Urban Dwell; the famous mural For more things to do outside Madam’s Organ; in Adams Morgan, go to Snap a great moment in Washington, and tag it on Instagram with (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©IRENA LASTER; ©LINDA SAMUEL/KIDFRIENDLYDC.COM; ©ALLISON DAR; ©ROBERTSIMAGEO DAR; ©ALLISON SAMUEL/KIDFRIENDLYDC.COM; ©LINDA LASTER; ©IRENA LEFT) TOP FROM (CLOCKWISE Jack Rose Dining Saloon wheretraveler.com SALOON DINING ROSE JACK COURTESY SABIN; ©BROOKE DWELL; URBAN COURTESY GOAT; UP TAIL COURTESY TOP) FROM (CLOCKWISE #wheredc for a chance to appear in an upcoming issue.

16 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 17 How Sweet It Is By Amy Alipio By Amy With cupcakes, 18 nuts, ice cream pastries, dough- digging dessert. every turn,D.C.’s and gelato at WHERE

I OCTOBER 2017 OCTOBER famous, and long-running, reality TV shows shows TV reality long-running, and famous, most the of One serious? How tooth. store.” acandy or stand cream ice an shop, apastry abakery, across coming without D.C. in ablock to go hard “It’s says, Martell my suga get abottle. of out aflavoring not herb, an ally actu is mint that reminder apleasant me, surprises taste leafy Its Chip. Fresh Minty breath. of out abit I’m 14th neighborhood, Street buzzing the in o 17-minute my abrisk is from walk truck, Humor Good a10-ton like scene treats frozen- D.C. the hit that parlor homegrown the Jubilee, Cream Ice because That’s it. for heavily panting definitely I’m but I MAY NOT BE SCREAMING BE I MAY NOT ffice. By the time I arrive at its sunny store store sunny its at Iarrive time the By ffice. The nation’s capital has a serious sweet sweet aserious has capital nation’s The to far that to walk need really I didn’t of ascoop by revived quickly I’m But r fix. As local food critic Nevin Nevin critic food local As r fix. for ice cream, cream, ice for - reality TV show on TLC, “DC Cupcakes.” Cupcakes.” “DC TLC, on show TV reality their of success to the due partly since, up hasn’t let immediately—and almost started opened . The queue LaMontagne Kallinis Sophie and Berman Kallinis Katherine sisters 2008, in Here, to start. which in neighborhood agood is Georgetown cravings. your to satisfy places of avariety find you’ll fanatic, afudge or feeds with posts tagged #dessertporn. Instagram fill who professionals obsessed food- young, of full is D.C. that hurt doesn’t It spots. known nationally of outposts and start-ups local with grown, also has scape land dessert the years, few past the in ed Sweetgreen. name: its in taste to D.C.’s favorite franchise—salad!—nods salad local thriving the Even cupcakes. make who sisters two follows here set Whether you’re a doughnut devotee explod has scene food Washington’s As - -

COURTESY LADURÉE GEORGETOWN

(FROM TOP) ©JOY ASICO; COURTESY ICE CREAM JUBILEE; COURTESY MILK BAR As Washington’s food inthepastfew scenehasexploded original takes on s’mores and Ho Hos. Hos. Ho and s’mores on takes original her and cakes too-beautiful-to-eat (almost) the Shaw neighborhood serves scones, Tiff in chef shop whose any MacIsaac, Tiff pastry any award-winning be would Shop.” Bake Buttercream at Tiff everything love any makes my kids and Stuff Good at shake &white black Eatery, the Ilove and husband “My need? sugar own her to feed go she does where And saysdoor!” co-founder Edelman. Violeta the through walking to come Frodo for ing coffing gelato and drinking I wasee, wait- eat- shop Circle Dupont our in sat Weaving Hugo and Blanchett Cate “When it. miss can’t celebrities visiting Even Washington. gelato much ubiquitous pretty throughout creamy made has Dolcezza CityCenterDC, in one including seven shops, With my childhood!” of treats frozen to the homage cake—my and pies cookies, think mix-ins— Bar Milk with mash-up cream ice asoft-serve MilkQuakes, our out rolled we Tosi “Recently me. behavior,” tells best our on Iwere and sister my older if Queen Dairy or Robbins Baskin at splurges family weekly were out eating of memories fondest “My goodies. of line latest her inspired has which area, Tosi D.C. the in up grew But world. to the Pie Crack addictive the introduced that York New bakery popular Bar, her Milk of abranch Tosi opened has Christina CityCenterDC, at Downtown chandeliers.crystal coff from light soft the by illuminated ee, and fl petal rose pistachio, including avors, of arainbow in macarons sells room tea elegant this chain, patisserie French fancy off An the of neighborhood. tony the shoot to fi you’d expect place of type in the nd exactly is hand, other the on Ladurée, to fi expect you place Georgetown.” in nd of kind the Not vibe. funky asuper has place the “Plus says. he inventive,” and tial substan- more nearby.and Wired “They’re Baked at cupcakes the prefers Martell years, withlocal hasalsogrown, thedessertlandscape start-ups and outposts of nationally known spots. known nationally start-ups andoutpostsof occasionally such a thing as too sweet. too as athing such occasionally there’s Washingtonians, for even parently, confi she [that it way],” order people Ap- des. “Most sweet? half it want anyone would Why question. the by confused I’m sweet. half or sweet” “Miami drink the like Iwould if asks barista The leche. con café iced an and cake leches atres up pick I Shop. Colada called café Cuban little a hip lies Jubilee Cream to Ice Next started. I end my treat-fueled tour near where I moment!” cream ice an through history D.C. of abit share can we and laugh, people makes it that with marionberries from But . I love made actually mayor. It’s former the Barry, Marion after named is this if asked get fl popular We always Marionberry. is avors very our “one of that note does Jubilee, Cream Ice of founder Lai, Victoria But tial Washington sweet. diffi it makes aquintessen- down to pin cult This malasadas. Portuguese and cream) ice and fruit with layered ice (shaved halo-halo to Filipino tarts custard egg Chinese from indulgences, international enjoys D.C. that means also population adiverse Having fountain. 12-foot-tall chocolate a features resort, Harbor National MGM at Patisserie, Bellagio Pops. Couture approved Kardashian- to the home is Factory Sugar City, Pentagon In Tastes aSamoa. Like Scout–worthy the Girl including doughnuts, delightful sells Shack Sugar and chocolates, Fleurir creates gem-like In Alexandria, desert. adessert hardly It’s lines: district Don’t if you worry to need head outside sorbet. lambic cherry and cotta panna Kirsch with cake forest ablack as such creations, exquisite her and Chin Aggie chef pastry boasts Mirabelle restaurant House, contemporary French-American White the near And brûlée. crème and fl in former the has which PB&J like avors Center, Metro near Chicken &Fried nuts Dough- to Astro Ihead treats, fried For macarons ofLadurée (Opposite) thelauded and cereal milkaffogato; Bar’sJubilee; Milk crack pie cone to gofrom Ice Cream a atSugarFactory; kinds (From top) Candy ofall DESSERT FIRST

19 Town and Country MY NEW FRIEND ODIN IS SHORTER than he appears online, and his two-tone An hour from D.C., Middleburg charms with its historic main Mohawk is even punkier than I’d expected. No, Odin isn’t my date from iCupid; he’s street, vineyard-covered hills and horse-filled pastures. the Norwegian ord horse I’m sitting on for a morning trail ride at Salamander Resort and Spa in Middleburg, Virginia. And despite his edgy hairdo, Odin is calm and well- ByJennifer Barger behaved as our group of four riders (and two guides) makes its way under towering trees, up gentle inclines and along a rustic stone fence. “That’s been here since before the Civil War, and it probably took five years to build,” explains one of the guides.

A HORSE, OF COURSE drama: It’s all redbrick sidewalks, 18th- and We’re walking our steeds around 340 acres 19th-century buildings and indie retailers. in Middleburg, the heart of Virginia horse Two Civil War skirmishes took place in town country. The town and its hilly, bucolic limits in 1863, and the burg later earned a environs still host fox hunts (the red-tailed rep as the horse and hunt capital of the U.S. critters usually survive, FYI) and spirited The latter vibe permeates our late steeplechase races. (The International lunch stop, the Red Fox Inn & Tavern. At the Gold Cup takes place October 28 at nearby circa-1728 fieldstone edifice, we try creamy Great Meadow.) I’ve made the 50-mile Virginia peanut soup and fried green to- drive from D.C. with my equine-averse mato eggs Benedict. We’re in historic com- spouse, Callan, both to saddle up and to pany: Lore says that George Washington visit the circa-1787 town founded by Revo- supped here, as did Confederate General lutionary War hero John Leven Powell. J.E.B. Stuart and equestrienne First Lady FLICKR, CREATIVE COMMONS; COURTESY VISIT LOUDOUN VISIT COURTESY COMMONS; CREATIVE FLICKR, Post ride, I pat Odin farewell; he’s muzzle Jackie Kennedy. “I didn’t have to get up on down in a pail of hay in Salamander’s gable- a horse or win a battle to eat here, though,” roofed barn. I’m a bit wobbly from an hour says Callan, sipping a glass of wine that we in the saddle, so I head to the spa for a tasted earlier at Greenhill. massage and some hot-tub time. After I Very full and a little sleepy, we head to enjoy a heated soak under a blue-lit , the National Sporting Library & Museum a therapist Allison goes to work on my sore, few blocks off the main drag. The museum er, flanks with a heated bamboo roller. “The features both contemporary and historic roller isn’t specific to any culture,” she says. hunting, fishing and riding art, including a “But we find our riders really like it.” She dramatic modern metal horse head in the called me a rider! I feel refreshed as I join lobby and early 19th-century English etch- Callan for some pre-lunch wine sampling. ings upstairs of Mr. Darcy clones and their These days, the countryside surrounding hounds hunting pheasants. Middleburg wins as many kudos for wine as Afterwards, we wander back to Wash- it does for riding trails. “Loudoun County is ington Street, populated with antiques pastoral and kind of like rural France, with stores, women’s clothing boutiques and fields of horses and rolling green hills,” says tempters like Middleburg’s Finest Choco- my friend and wine wholesaler Andrew lates, which lures us with its old-timey glass Stover, a longtime fan of local sips. “It also cases packed with locally made bonbons. happens to be good for growing grapes.” We grab a couple of Virginia Dainties, tradi- With this in mind, we sample reds in the tional milk chocolate buttercreams rolled tasting room at nearby Boxwood Estate in—what else?—peanuts grown in state. Winery. “It’s like a chapel to grapes,” says Cal and I are also charmed by Coun- Callan, bellied up to the circular bar. We sip try Classics, a clothing store that makes Bordeaux-style reds like full-bodied Topiary traditional English horse fashions seem hip. with its blackberry notes. A bit further afield Think hacking jackets, Liberty of London- AROUND THE BURG at Greenhill Winery, we sit on the shaded print dresses and riding pants. “With these (From top) Grapes soon to porch with views of the vines and taste the kind of clothes, there’s a reason for how become wine; Red Fox Inn excellent whites: an apricot-y Viognier and everything is made, from where a button & Tavern; window shop- a velvety sparkling blanc de blanc. is to whether pants have pleats,” says shop ping on Washington Street; Minus the cars, Middleburg’s main drag, co-owner Roderick Rigden. I know what I’m (Opposite) Salamander (OPPOSITE) COURTESY SALAMANDER RESORT AND SPA; (THIS PAGE, FROM TOP) ©ROMOLOTAVANI/ISTOCK; ©RON COGSWELL/ ©RON ©ROMOLOTAVANI/ISTOCK; TOP) FROM PAGE, (THIS SPA; AND RESORT SALAMANDER COURTESY (OPPOSITE) PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE GOES CREDIT PHOTO Washington Street, could star in a historic wearing for my next date with Odin. Resort and Spa

20 WHERE I APRIL 2017 21 UPSCALE SHOPPING MAIN ATTRACTIONS 高端购物 主要景点 北弗吉尼亚 就在华盛顿特区之外，奢侈品牌和 特价产品静待您的选择。

Kennedy Center Kennedy Center是一处著名的表演艺 术综合设施，持票游客可以在这里享 受世界一流的音乐会、芭蕾舞剧、 歌 剧和 戏 剧。但 没有购票的游 客也 有充分的理由对这里趋之若鹜。 千禧舞台还提供夜间免费表演。2700 F St. NW, 202.467.4600

Tysons Galleria

北弗吉尼亚毗邻首都，零售珍品丰 富多样。购物者搭乘地铁蓝线在 五角大楼区站下车即可抵达 Fashion Centre at Pentagon City (1100 S. Hayes St., Arlington, 703.415.2400)，购物中心 170 内拥有 多家店铺，还有 Mount Vernon Hermes at 一个空中中庭美食广场。在 George Washington CityCenterDC 在 位于弗吉尼亚 Tysons Corner，地铁银线可以带领游 州的 Mount Vernon 山庄，历 史 爱 好 客们飞速抵达区内最大的两个购物 者可以通过高科技展览、参观故居 中心。依托 Lord & Taylor、 National Mall 和游览宽敞的庭院来对他展开全面 市内精选 的了解。 “华盛顿”墓绝对不容 Nordstrom 和 Bloomingdale 百 如果特区内有一个必看景点的话，那绝对非 National Mall 莫 属。 政治并非这个国家首都唯一的主题——极富历史气息的街区里遍 错 过。3200 Mount Vernon 货商店， 这里有时也被称为“国家前院”，这片巨大而美丽的绿色空间延伸 Highway, Mount Vernon, Va., 布光彩夺目的高端购物中心和魅力迷人的精品店铺，也让这里成为 (1961 Chain Bridge Road, Tysons 超过 2 英里，穿城市中心而过。每年，数以百万计的游客会前来这 703.780.2000 购物狂们心目中的消费圣地。市中心的 CityCenterDC (10th St. NW, Corner, 703.893.9400) 的零售面积 里纪念历史、抗议不公或只是在国家公园里散散步。在广场西侧， Lincoln 202.347.6337) 是一个占地 10 英亩的综合零售绿洲，沿国家广场分布的 高达 220 万平方英尺，American 游客可以随意漫步，了解这个国家对过去的伟大贡献，如 Memorial (2 Circle NW) 16 纪念碑、纪念馆和博物馆就在不远处。这栋现代化的玻璃结构已成为 Girl、Gucci、Louis Vuitton 和 ，这里矗立着美国第 任 总统林肯的一座高 19 英尺的雕塑，他带领美国渡过了最动荡不安 购买奢侈品的首选目的地，从地铁中心站和画廊-中国城站下车即可轻 Lenkersdorfer（出售 Patek 的时光。顺着大理石台阶而上，民权领袖 Martin Luther King Jr. 在这 松抵达。在这里，时尚界的部分大牌纷纷透过闪闪发光的店面吸引路 Philippe、Cartier 和 Bulgari 等品牌 里发表了著名的“我有一个梦想”演说。从美籍华裔建筑师 Maya Lin 的精品腕表和珠宝）等品牌店铺 人 的目光。Louis Vuitton、Burberry、Dior、Gucci、Ferragamo 和 Hermes 设计的 Vietnam Veterans Memorial (5 Henry Bacon Drive) 到 World 林立。如果还想购买更多的奢侈 只是其中的一部分。如需获得高端品牌的折扣产品，寄售店 Secondi War II Memorial (17th St. NW between Constitution and Independence 品牌，可以穿过 Chain Bridge Road (1702 Connecticut Ave.NW, 202.667.1122) 绝对堪称不二之选，这是位于杜 avenues)，附近的几处景点是对战争悲剧的深刻提醒。广场中间， 到 Tysons Galleria (2001 International 邦环岛的一家阳光亲切的二手店。 近 555 英尺高的 (near 15th St. NW) 耸 然 而 立， Drive, McLean, 703.827.7730)， 历史风情浓厚的乔治城几个世纪以来一直是购物者心目中的麦加圣 使之成为全世界最高的石结构建筑。再往东是史密森尼博物馆体系 这里闪闪发亮的走廊上排列着 American History 地。沿 着主 街 道 M Street NW，Coach (3259 M St. NW, 202.333.3005) 等大 的一系列博物馆，这些博物馆展示人工产品，如 National Zoo Chanel、Ferragamo 和当地奢华腕 Museum (14th St. and Constitution Ave.NW, 202.633.1000) 展出的第一 牌零售商随处可见，还有类似 Hu's Wear (2906 M St. NW, 202.342.2020) 华盛顿特区最受欢迎的居民非 表店 Liljenquist & Beckstead 等各色 夫 人 的 礼 服、Air & Space Museum (6th St. and Independence Ave.SW, National Zoo 里的大熊猫莫属，动 这样的独立精品店，店内所有商品均是店主 Marlene Hu Aldaba 从 高端店铺。再向南， 202.633.2214) 展出的可触摸的月球岩石、以及 Sackler Gallery 物园与中国专家合作，共同保护这 163 Proenza Schouler、Stella McCartney 和其他设计师的作品中精挑细选出 (2700 Potomac Mills Circle, Woodbridge, (1050 Independence Ave.SW, 202.633.1000) 些 珍 稀 物 种。在占地 英亩的葱 展出的亚洲艺术品 郁园区里，还可以近距离欣赏非洲 Hu’s Shoes 的 精品。附 近 的 姐 妹 店 (3005 M St. NW, 202.342.0202) 拥有很 703.496.9330) 特价商品购物中心提供 等。广 场 东 端 是 the U.S. Capitol (East Capitol St. NE & 1st St. SE, 狮和亚洲象以及更多动物。 3001

200 ZOO NATIONAL ©SMITHSONIAN’S VERNON; MOUNT WASHINGTON’S GEORGE COURTESY BLUNT; ©RON SERVICE; PARK NATIONAL COURTESY LEFT) FROM (CLOCKWISE 难找到的设计师鞋履出售皮革制品和礼品。 多家商店的深度折扣。 FAIRFAX VISIT COURTESY POWELL; ©TONY LEFT) (FROM 202.226.8000)，这里是美国民主的标志性象征。 Connecticut Ave.NW, 202.673.4888

22 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 23 DINING SCENE 美食地标 WERS

Fiola Mare

Chinatown/Penn 开了几 家 餐 厅，其 中， Georgetown Quarter 他最看重的分子美食学 Georgetown 始建于 圣殿 Minibar（855 E St. 在Chinatown/Penn 1789 年，城 镇 的 街 道 采 NW，202.393.0812，需提 Quarter著名的中式拱门 用鹅卵石铺设而成，处 前 3 个 月 预 订 ）餐 厅 及 他 处散发着浓厚的历史风 附 近，美 食 家 们 可 以 找 向西班牙传统的致敬之 到美味诱人的国际风味 情和迷人魅力。詹姆斯 作 Jaleo (480 7th St. NW, Fabio 美 食。Daikaya (705 6th St. 比尔德奖获得者 202.628.7949) 餐厅的营业 Trabocchi 开设的 Fiola 现已进入第 10 个 年 头 了。 Mare (3050 K St. NW, 202.628.0065) 餐厅供应 Downtown The Prime Rib 令人垂涎三尺的意式海 Downtown 域充斥 鲜，在 此 用 餐 的 同 时， 着 各种 律 师、游 说 者 餐厅外的河边风光也 和 世 界 银 行 的 一 群 人， 装饰风格与每天供应 一 览 无 余，十 分 惬 意。 所有人都在享用着各 的鲜鱼互为补充，The 在 Michael Mina 创办 种 美 食。在 Oceanaire Prime Rib (2020 K St. NW, 的 Bourbon Steak (2800 Seafood Room (1201 F St. 202.466.8811) 餐厅的装 Pennsylvania Ave.NW, Rasika NW, 202.202.347.2277) 饰艺术风格则将食客 202.944.2026) 餐 厅，食 餐厅，远洋班轮一样的 带 回了盖 茨 比 的 时 代。 客们可以一边吃着鲜嫩 Chalin’s (1912 I St. NW, NW, 202.589.1600) 餐厅在 在 多汁的排骨，一边以“看 热闹风趣的氛围中呈上札 202.293.6000) 餐 厅，正 宗 名 人”为 乐 。自 1933 年 Martin’s Tavern 幌 式日本 拉 面。 现代的中国美食是外交官 以 来， El Chalan (1924 (1264 Wisconsin Ave.NW, Rasika (633 D St. NW, 们 的 最爱。 I St. NW, 202.293.2765) 202.333.7370) 202.637.1222) 餐厅凭借 餐 餐厅一直 现代化的印度菜赢得盛 厅供应最受秘鲁人欢迎 是极受欢迎的聚会场 赞。在 Wok & Roll (604 H 的 美 食，如 炒 牛 排 和 炸 薯 所，这里供应令人感到 St. NW, 202.347.4656) 餐 条（秘鲁炒牛肉）。在自 慰 藉 的 美 式 美 食，同 时 Fogo 厅，寿司和中国美食在 助式巴西牛排餐厅 也散发着浓浓的历史氛 At Rasika, innovative de Chao 菜 单 上各 占一 席 之 地， (1101 Pennsylvania 围 。（ 提 示 ： 可 以 预 订 三 chef Vikram Sunderam Ave.NW, 202.347.4668) John F. 卡拉 OK 也非常受欢迎。 ， 号 卡 座，据 报 道， takes traditional Indian 食 客 们 可 以 吃 到 饱（ 甚 至 Kennedy 就是在这里向 詹姆斯比尔德奖获得 Minibar food to new levels of 更 多 ！ ）。 Jackie 求 婚 的 ）。 者 José Andrés 在这里 PO ©GREG (OPPOSITE) THINKFOODGROUP; COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY; TAMARA ©SHIMMON RIB; PRIME THE COURTESY SUCHMAN; ©SCOTT TOP) (FROM flavor and creativity.

24 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 WHERE WASHINGTON OCTOBER 2017 SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Shop

TYSONS GALLERIA NW, 202.800.7800 Metro: Foggy APPAREL-WOMEN 6 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Bottom-GWU CURRENT 1514 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Avenue, plus 100 other up- Upscale consignment for 202.338.4404 scale shops (Chanel, Gucci, WHISKEY GINGER clothing, jewelry, handbags, Prada). Restaurants (Legal Minimalist shop with con- plus new items. Michael Kors, SECONDI Seafoods, Sweetgreen). Mon.- crete floors and metal bars Gucci, Rebecca Minkoff. Mon.- Sunny spot reselling con- Sat. 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun. noon- filled with casual clothing Fri. noon-8 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.- temporary labels (Diane 6 p.m. Exit I-495 at 46A. 2001 by Bellfield, Rogue State, 8 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Von Furstenberg, Burberry, International Drive, McLean, Astronomy. Accessories 1809 14th St. NW, 202.588.7311 Theory, Milly, Chloe). Items ar- Shop SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Va., 703.827.7730 (iPhone cases), Brooklyn Metro: U St.-Cardozo rive daily, and discounts vary Grooming personal care by tag dates. Mon.-Tues., Sat. ANTIQUES products. Tues.-Thurs. 6- ELLA RUE 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Wed.-Fri. till Maketto THE BRASS KNOB 9 p.m., Fri. 4-7 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.- High-end consignment from 7 p.m., Sun. 1-5 p.m. 1702 ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUES 7 p.m., Sun. noon-6 p.m. 1603 Palm Beach to Paris. Chanel, Connecticut Ave. NW, 2nd floor, Perhaps the hippest spot along trendy H Street NE, this hybrid Since 1981, a source for an- U St. NW, 202.791.0851 Metro: Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, 202.667.1122 Metro: Dupont boutique-coffee shop-restaurant oozes West Coast cool. The only tique hardware (door knobs, U St-Cardozo J. Brand. Accessories, shoes. Circle (North) lighting fixtures, ironwork, Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun. problem? Deciding what to do first. Downstairs, peruse menswear glasswork) dating from 1870 APPAREL-MEN noon-5 p.m. 3231 P St. NW, UPSTAIRS ON 7TH to 1940. Mon.-Sat. 10:30 a.m.- & WOMEN 202.333.1598 A boutique offering upscale street-style brands like Durkl, Neighborhood and Vans. Then hit 6 p.m., Sun. noon-5 p.m. 2311 BILLY REID clothing, accessories and the bar for a creative cocktail, or claim a table for James Beard- 18th St. NW, 202.332.3370 Renowned designer’s collec- THE HIVE jewelry from American and tion with a Southern accent. From hip founder of The international designers. Mon.- nominee Erik Bruner-Yang’s Cambodian and Taiwanese fare (think MISS PIXIE’S FURNISHINGS Rugged button-ups, derby- Shoe Hive, an Old Town Fri. 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat. noon- pan-seared leek bao buns, shrimp toast and duck noodle soup). AND WHATNOT ready suits, accessories boutique stocking clothing 5 p.m. 1299 Pennsylvania Ave. Wacky window displays like K Swiss shoes and dis- by trend-setting brands NW, Suite 132R, 301.351.8308 Upstairs, coffee fans sip Vigilante brews and indulge in Frenchie’s and a neon pink exterior, tressed leather handbags. (Rebecca Taylor, Current Metro: Metro Center sweets. There’s even an outdoor courtyard that makes a fine perch auction-bought furniture Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. Elliott, Veronica Beard, Jenni and decor (globes, mirrors, noon-6 p.m. 3211 M St. NW, Kayne, Equipment). Mon.- BEAUTY on a beautiful day. 1351 H St. NE, 202.838.9972, maketto1351.com vintage postcards). Delivery. 202.499.6765 Sat. 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. BELLACARA Daily 11 a.m.-7 p.m. 1626 14th noon-5 p.m. 127 S. Fairfax St., Angela Sitilides’ shop St. NW, 202.232.8171 Metro: FILSON Alexandria, Va., 703.548.7105 for luxe skincare, beauty U St.-Cardozo Seattle-based, century-old and haircare products. SHOPPING CENTERS Clyde’s. Hours vary by busi- MARKET COMMON into an ice-skating rink during outfitter of “built to last” HU’S WEAR Bumble and Bumble, Butter CHEVY CHASE PAVILION ness. 5471-5481 Wisconsin CLARENDON winter months. Galleries, APPAREL-MEN outdoorsy jackets, shirts and Airy boutique with clothing London, Dermalogica, Kai, Upscale shopping center in Ave. NW, Chevy Chase, Md., Buzzing zone with specialty shops (South Moon ALTON LANE accessories, all with a lifetime and accessories by Megan Skinceuticals, Mario Badescu, Friendship Heights. H&M plus 301.654.2690 Metro: local and national stores: Under, Appalachian Spring) Upscale tailoring shop using guarantee. Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.- Park, Bruno Grizzo, Salvor all tested by Sitilides herself. J. Crew, Richey & Co. Shoes Friendship Heights Bluemercury, Loft, Sephora, and restaurants. Hours vary. high-tech computer to scan 8 p.m., Sun. noon-6 p.m. 1534 and Guilty Brotherhood. Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat. and World Market. Civil Cigar Apple Store, South Moon Take Dulles Toll Rd. west to the body for custom suits. By 14th St. NW, 202.759.9570 Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun., noon- Lounge and dining at Bryan FASHION CENTRE AT Under, lululemon. Restaurants Reston Parkway, 11900 Market appointment. Tues.-Fri. noon-5 pm. 2906 M St. NW, 5 p.m. 1000 King St., Alex- Voltaggio’s Range. Mon.-Sat. PENTAGON CITY including La Tasca, Iota St., Reston, Va., 703.579.6720 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.- MACY’S 202.342.2020 Metro: Foggy andria, Va., 703.299.9652 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. till 9 p.m. Airy, light-filled mall with Club, Cheesecake Factory. 7 p.m. 1506 19th St. NW, Legendary New York retailer, Bottom-GWU 5335 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Nordstrom, Macy’s, 170- Hours vary by store. 2800 SHOPS AT WISCONSIN PLACE 646.896.1212 Metro: Dupont source of stylish clothing BLUEMERCURY 202.686.5335 Metro: plus shops (Apple, Stuart Clarendon Blvd., Arlington, Bloomingdale’s and LED Circle (South) and housewares. Hours vary NUBIAN HUEMAN Expert staff demonstrating Friendship Heights Weitzman, L’Occitane) and Va., 888.446.7680 Metro: sculpture anchoring a row by location. 1201 G St. NW, A newly expanded, socially products by Nars, Bumble large food court. Mon.-Sat. Clarendon of fashionable stores like HUGH & CRYE 202.628.6661 Metro: Metro responsible boutique offer- and Bumble, La Mer, etc. in CITYCENTERDC 10 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.- Anthropologie, Cole Haan, Shirts (dress, casual) and blaz- Center; Fashion Centre at ing fashion, art and beauty a no-pressure environment. Luxury complex for shops like 6 p.m. 1100 S. Hayes St., POTOMAC MILLS Sephora and Talbots. Four res- ers designed to fit 12 body Pentagon City, 1100 S. Hayes products from independent Hours vary by location. Hermès, Louis Vuitton, plus Arlington, Va., 703.415.2400 Largest outlet mall in Virginia taurants include P.F. Chang’s types from athletic to slim. St., Arlington, Va., 703.418.4488; global designers reflecting 3059 M St. NW, 202.965.1300; restaurants Daniel Boulud’s Metro: Pentagon City with more than 200 stores and The Capital Grille. Mon.- Accessories (pocket squares, see website for other locations the African Diaspora and 1145 Connecticut Ave. NW, DBGB Kitchen and Bar, (Nordstrom Rack, H&M, Sat. 10 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. noon- ties, vintage pins). Mon.-Fri. in the area: Tysons Galleria, black culture. Reopening 202.628.5567 Metro: Farragut Momofuku, Centrolina, Fig & LEESBURG CORNER Bloomingdale’s-The Outlet 7 p.m. 5310 Western Ave., Chevy 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat. noon- Ballston, , celebration Sept. 14. Tues.-Sat. North; 50 Massachusetts Ave. Olive. Tesla showroom. Hours PREMIUM OUTLETS Store, Last Call by Neiman Chase, Md., 301.841.4000 Metro: 4 p.m., Sun. by appoint- . noon-7 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.- NE, 202.289.5008 Metro: vary by store. 10th St. NW (be- Enclave of 110 brand-name Marcus). IMAX theater, food Friendship Heights ment only. 300 Tingey St. SE, 3 p.m. 1231 Good Hope Road Union Station tween H and I), 202.289.9000 and designer outlets includ- court. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-9 p.m., 202.250.3807 Metro: Navy Yard REDEEM SE, 202.394.3386. Metro: Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown or ing Armani Outlet, Le Creuset, Sun. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. I-495 to TYSONS CORNER CENTER Posh urbanites and rockers Anacostia BOOKS Metro Center Lacoste, Saks Fifth Avenue Off I-95 south about 20 miles Largest mall in the metro area SUITSUPPLY flocking to this Logan Circle BUSBOYS & POETS Fifth at savings of 25-65 per- to Exit 158B. 2700 Potomac with 300-plus shops, restau- Dutch supplier of dapper shop for established brands THE PHOENIX Happenin’ bookstore with THE COLLECTION cent. Food court. Mon.-Sat. Mills Circle, Woodbridge, Va., rants, a plaza for events and jackets, subtle tweeds and and up-and-comers Religion, Since 1955, well-appointed liberal vibes, bar and cafe AT CHEVY CHASE 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun. till 7 p.m. 703.496.9330 a cineplex. Bloomingdale’s, rich-hued trousers made with Brown Label, Anzevino & Georgetown boutique for serving pizzas and comfort High-end boutiques in 241 Fort Evans Road NE, Nordstrom, Sephora, Zara. Italian fabrics plus a wall of Florence. MUTINY, Blackbird clothing by Eileen Fisher, food. Wireless lounge. Mon.- Maryland, just north of the Leesburg, Va., 703.737.3071 Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-9:30 p.m., multi-colored ties. Personal grooming products. Mon.-Sat. White + Warren, Yansi Fugel, Thurs. 8 a.m.-midnight, Fri. till D.C. line. Jimmy Choo, Cartier, A pedestrian-friendly zone Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. 1961 Chain tailoring department. Mon.- noon-8 p.m., Sun till 6 p.m. Lilla P. Delicate gold jewelry, 2 a.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun. Tiffany & Co., Ralph Lauren, featuring a fountain square Bridge Road, Tysons Corner, Va., Sat. 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. noon- 1734 14th St. NW, 202.332.7447 plus fine art and decor from 9 a.m.-midnight. 2021 14th

plus restaurants Sushiko, and a pavilion that transforms 703.893.9400 LOPEZ ©REY 6 p.m. 2828 Pennsylvania Ave. Metro: U St.-Cardozo Mexico. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.- St. NW , 202.387.7638; 4251 S.

26 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 27 Shop SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Shop

Campbell Ave., Arlington, Va., TEN THOUSAND VILLAGES Rockville Pike, Rockville, Md., 202.208.7031;1610 H St. NW, 1660 Annapolis Mall, SPECIALTY 703.379.9756 One of the world’s largest 301.230.1380; 11877 Market St., 202.218.4337 Annapolis, Md., 410.224.4787 BUTTERCREAM BAKE SHOP fair trade organizations for Reston, Va., 703.478.2218 Beard-nominated Tiffany KRAMERBOOKS & artisans in 38 countries. JEWELRY THE SILVER PARROT McIsaac’s filled croissant AFTERWORDS CAFE Indonesian freshwater pearl ICONSDC.COM BEADAZZLED Silver and gold contemporary “flakies,” hand-painted cook- Newly expanded indie earrings, Peruvian back- Online catalogue of unique Shop for DIY inspiration jewelry and Native American ies, plus breakfast, Compass bookstore with full-service gammon games, all with a gifts with a D.C. theme. Plaster specializing in collectible pieces. Repairs. Mon.-Thurs. Coffee. Mon. 7 a.m.-5 p.m., restaurant and bar since 1976. printout of the item’s story. models, ornaments, posters, African beads, gemstones, 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. till Tues.-Fri. 7 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat. Events, live music, patio. Sun.- Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-6 p.m., architectural prints, sports seedbeads, metals, organics, 10 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. 8 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Thurs. 7:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Fri.-Sat. Sun. noon-6 p.m. 915 King St., objects. Some handmade, plus large selection of cords, Designer Consignment for Women 113 King St., Alexandria, Va., 1250 9th St. NW, 202.735.0102 24 hours. 1517 Connecticut Alexandria, Va., 703.684.1435 one-of-a-kind. Corporate wire and chain in a creative, ~ 202.667.1122 ~ Secondi.com 703.549.8530 Metro: King St. Metro: Mt. Vernon Sq Ave. NW, 202.387.1400 Metro: Metro: King St. gifts. 844.426.6732 welcoming environment. Dupont Circle (North) Also finished pieces by locals.  SHOES GEORGETOWN CUPCAKE FOR KIDS RED BARN MERCANTILE Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-8 p.m., ALDEN Founded by two sisters, stars POLITICS AND PROSE AMERICAN GIRL Cozy shop for decor, kitchen, Sun. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. 1507 Family-owned shoe manufac- of TLC’s “D.C. Cupcakes,” pop- Since 1984, niche selections Classic historical and mod- bath, plus furniture, gifts, Connecticut Ave. NW, turer since 1884. Men’s shoes ular bakery for classic recipes, and popular book signings. ern-day dolls plus glam out- games, toys for children. 202.265.2323 Metro: Dupont from tassel moccasins to dress seasonal flavors and daily spe- In-store OPUS book machine fits, accessories and furniture. Mon.-Thurs. 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Circle (North); 444 W. Broad St., Oxfords and Indiana Jones- cials. Winner of Washington prints and binds books for au- American Girl Bistro, salon Fri.-Sat. until 7 p.m., Sun. Falls Church, Va., 703.848.2323 style work boots, belts, fine Post Cupcake Wars. Tues.-Fri. thors in minutes. Coffee shop with stylists for doll pamper- noon-5 p.m. 1117 King St., leather goods. Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.- BRILLIANT EARTH *+2672)*(25*(72:1 downstairs (from 8 a.m. ing. Mon.-Thurs. 10 a.m.- Alexandria, Va., 703.838.0355 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.- 9 p.m., Sun. noon-5 p.m. 1209 daily). Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.- 8 p.m., Fri. till 9 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.- Serene, loft-like setting for San /,1&2/1¶6$66$66,1$7,21 5 p.m. 921 F St. NW, 202.347.2308 Potomac St. NW, 202.333.8448 10 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-8 p.m. 9:30 p.m., Sun. 10:30 a.m.- TABLETOP Francisco-based hand-crafter Metro: Metro Center 5015 Connecticut Ave. NW, 7 p.m. Tysons Corner Center, Bright subterranean spot for of ethically sourced diamond 9CNMKPI6QWTU LA CUISINE 202.364.1919 1961 Chain Bridge Road, Tysons Jonathan Adler vases, Wolfum and gemstone jewelry, plus BISHOP BOUTIQUE Kitchen tools, cookware, Corner, Va., 877.247.5223 Metro: gifts, Marimekko textiles, jew- vintage and antique pieces. 4'5'48'#6 Hip retailer specializing bakeware, accessories and SACRED CIRCLE Tysons Corner elry. Cookbooks, stationery. Custom designs. Fri.-Tues. 8+5+6&%61745%1/ in women’s accessories linens for serious and amateur Shop dedicated to spirituality, Mon.-Sat. noon-8 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-7 p.m. 3332 Cady’s Alley and shoes with brands like cooks alike housed in a histor- JVVRXKUKVFEVQWTUEQODQQMQPNKPG metaphysics, holistic healing EGG BY SUSAN LAZAR 10 a.m.-6 p.m. 1608 20th NW, 202.448.9055 Gorjana, Loren Hope, Danielle ic building. Mon.-Wed. and Fri. and the environment. Music, New York designer’s upscale St. NW, 202.387.7117 Metro: Nicole, Loeffler Randall, LK 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Thurs. till 7 p.m., crystals, gifts. Readings (tarot, clothing with a celebrity Dupont Circle (North); 6927 LENKERSDORFER Bennett. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.- Sat. till 6 p.m. 323 Cameron St., palm) upstairs. Free parking. following. Layettes, rompers, Laurel Ave., Takoma, Md., Sister store to Liljenquist 7 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Alexandria, Va., 703.836.4435 Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m.-7 p.m., children’s outfits in fun pat- 240.467.3982 Metro: Takoma & Beckstead since 1993. BEADAZZLED 815-B King St., Alexandria, Va., Sun. 1-5 p.m. 919 King St., terns and designs, swimsuits, (about five blocks) Fine wristwatches by Patek Beads & Jewelry 571.312.0042 MILK BAR Alexandria, Va., 703.299.9309 plus accessories like hats. Philippe, Breitling, Cartier, Local outpost of Christina Metro: King St. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun. URBAN DWELL Panerai plus fine jewelry 1507 Connecticut Ave, NW BUCKETFEET Tosi’s whimsical NYC bakery, Washington, DC 20036 11 a.m.-5 p.m. 1661 Wisconsin Fun shop with “hand-picked” from Roberto Coin, Chopard, 202.265.2323 Fun shop for lace-up and featuring “crack pies,” “com- CRAFTS & Ave. NW, 202.338.9500 selection of accessories for Bulgari. Skilled technicians for www.Beadazzled.com slip-on sneakers bearing the post cookies,” “cereal milk” COLLECTIBLES men and women, whimsical repairs. Mon.-Thurs. 10 a.m.- whimsical designs (pineap- soft serve. Special to this THE INDIAN CRAFT SHOP LABYRINTH decor, kitchen and bath prod- 9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. till 9:30 p.m., ples, bicycles, etc.) of artists location: parfaits. Also cookie At Department of the Games from classics (Chutes ucts, gifts for babies/kids. Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Tysons around the world. Mon.-Sat. mixes, tote bags, cookbooks. Interior since 1938, outlet for & Ladders, Monopoly) to Mon.-Tues. 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Corner Center, 1961 Chain 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. till 6 p.m. Daily 7 a.m.-midnight. 1090 I American Indian artists to role-playing and expansion Wed.-Fri. till 9 p.m., Sat. Bridge Road, Tysons Corner, 1924 8th St. NW, 202.847.3294 St. NW, 855.333.6455 market their crafts. Basketry, (Catan). Puzzles, Pokémon, 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.- Va., 703.506.6712 Metro: Metro: Shaw-Howard U carvings, kachinas, beadwork, STEM. In-store tourneys 6 p.m. 1837 Columbia Road Tysons Corner UNION MARKET plus outdoor sculpture gar- (Magic the Gathering), NW, 202.558.9087 HU’S SHOES Food hall with local “artisan” den. Visitors provide photo ID monthly kids’ night out with LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD Marlene Hu Aldaba stocking vendors plus Salt & Sundry to enter the building. Mon.- pizza. Tues. and Thurs.-Fri. HISTORICAL Since 1979, watches by her boutique with coveted home decor, Follain nat- Fri. 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. and 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Wed. till 9 p.m., ASSOCIATION Bulgari, Cartier, Rolex, footwear from New York, Paris ural cosmetics, Peregrine the third Sat. of each month Sat. 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.- Books, Christmas ornaments, Chopard. Bell & Ross time- and Milan. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.- Espresso, Rappahannock 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 1849 C St. NW, 6 p.m. 645 Pennsylvania Ave. jewelry, items inspired by the pieces “designed for pro- 7 p.m., Sun. noon-5 p.m. 3005 Oyster Co., John Mooney’s 202.208.4056 SE, 202.544.1059 Metro: history of the White House. fessionals,” Tacori diamond M St. NW, 202.342.0202 Metro: Bidwell restaurant. Tues.-Fri. Eastern Market Jackson Place: Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.- rings, David Yurman brace- Foggy Bottom-GWU 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 8 a.m.- LOOPED YARN WORKS 4 p.m. H St.: Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.- lets. Hours vary by location. 8 p.m. 6th St. & Neal Place NE Residence-like setting en- GIFTS & HOME DECOR 5 p.m. Visitor Center: Mon.- Tysons Galleria (watch store), SJP BY SARAH JESSICA couraging in-store knitting. APPALACHIAN SPRING Sun. 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m. 740 2001 International Drive, PARKER WARBY PARKER More than 30 brands of yarns, Since 1968, handcrafted Jackson Place NW (NW corner McLean, Va., 703.448.6731; The “Sex and the City” star’s Local franchise of hip eyewear patterns, needles, notions. jewelry, scarves, art glass, of Lafayette Square) Metro: Westfield Montgomery, 2412 first boutique, offering color- company offering stylish Weekly classes, events. Tues.- toys, home decor. Hours Farragut West or McPherson Montgomery Mall, Bethesda, ful shoes, “LBD” little black frames (prescription, sun- Wed. and Fri. 11 a.m.-7 p.m., vary by location. Union Pl; 1450 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Md., 301.469.7575; Fairfax dresses, handbags, perfume, glasses) for men and women. Thurs. till 9 p.m., Sat. till 6 p.m., Station, 50 Massachusetts Square, 8075 Leesburg Pike, etc. Inside luxe MGM National On-staff optician for exams, Sun. till 5 p.m. 1732 Connect- Ave. NE, 202.682.0505. Metro: Vienna, Va., 703.749.1200; Harbor. Daily 10 a.m.-11 p.m. fittings. Daily 11 a.m.-7 p.m. icut Ave. NW, 202.714.5667 Union Station; 1415 Wisconsin , 7200 MGM National Ave., Oxon 3225 M St. NW, 202.618.5605; Ave. NW, 202.337.5780; 1641 Hill, Md., 301.971.6094 1924 8th St. NW, 202.618.5606

28 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 29 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Food

Bad Saint ALEXANDRIA, VA. from Metro. L & D (daily). chicken, mac and cheese, sausages and cheeses. Patio. This snug 24-seater in the Columbia Heights BASTILLE 1800 Diagonal Road, with Joe Jender in the kitch- L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.- French Upscale Parisian bistro 703.739.0777 Metro: King St. en. Inventive cocktails. B & Sun.). 3100 N. Washington neighborhood has earned an outsized rep- and wine bar with chef/own- L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.- Blvd., 703.741.7636 Metro: ers Christophe and Michelle LIVE OAK Sun.). 2080 Jamieson Ave., Clarendon utation, thanks to delicious dishes and na- Poteaux’s locally inspired Southern Chef Justus Frank 703.253.8640 tional shout-outs from Bon Appetit and The cuisine: moules frites, hanger (Fiola) bringing Charleston by PEPITA CANTINA steak, lamb shoulder cous- way of Alexandria. Upscale VOLA’S DOCKSIDE GRILL Mexican Celeb chef Mike New York Times. Wanna-be diners line up for cous. Prix fixe lunch (three comfort classics : shrimp AND HI-TIDE LOUNGE Isabella’s colorful, relaxed hours at the no-reservations hot spot to try courses, $29) and dinner and grits, smoked pork ribs, Seafood Named for Alex- cantina for south of the (three-five courses, $39-$59; braised collard greens tortel- andria’s feisty first woman border favorites like tacos, mouth-watering Filipino fare like sinigang stew, wine extra) available. Artisanal lini. Sweets like strawberry city manager who had a hand plus modernized small plates cocktails, prized desserts. shortcake, housemade ice in the waterfront’s develop- and family-style meats ($$$). pancit noodles and ginseng tulya clams with Famed sommelier Mark Slater. cream. D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). ment, a casual and friendly Mezcal and tequila-heavy Chinese sausage (pictured). And the consen- L (Tues.-Fri.), D (Tues.-Sun.), 1603 Commonwealth Ave., spot for seafood comfort drinks menu with 35 cocktails. Br (Sat.-Sun.). 606 N. Fayette St. 571.312.0402 dishes. Fish and chips, crab L & D (daily). 4000 Wilson Blvd., sus is clear: Bad Saint is well worth the wait. 703.519.3776 Metro: Braddock Rd cakes, fried chicken with 703.312.0200 Metro: Ballston 3226 11th St. NW, badsaintdc.com MAGNOLIA’S ON KING water views. Hi-Tide Lounge BILBO BAGGINS Southern On main drag, town- for bar bites, frozen cocktails, RAY’S THE STEAKS American “Global restaurant” house with Charleston touch- beer, wine. L & D (daily), Steaks Local institution with with upstairs dining, Green es. Ground-floor dining and Br (Sat.-Sun.). 101 N. Union St., spare ambiance but lauded, 14TH & U CORRIDOR and sweet chili, two-flavor IZAKAYA SEKI and cheese. Pool tables, kara- Dragon pub downstairs upstairs lounge with fireplace. 703.935.8890 high-quality steaks. From BARCELONA ices overseen by chef de Japanese Warm and welcom- oke, rooftop bar. D (daily). with microbrews, martinis, Modernized Southern cuisine: Filet-mignon-filled deviled Spanish Evoking the intimate cuisine Brittany Frick. 2 Birds, ing two-level spot for raw, 2461 18th St. NW, 202.667.5370 “Hobbit” drink specials, TVs. blood orange salad, spicy WAREHOUSE BAR & GRILL eggs and chateaubriand for wine bars of Spain, Milan, Rio 1 Stone sister bar with Asian grilled and fried Japanese Michael Armellino’s pizzas, crab dip, ribeye with maple American Mahogany bar, one to NY strip and steak (even SoHo), highlighting the cocktails (upstairs), classics small plates. Sashimi, grilled MINTWOOD PLACE beef filet with Stilton, pork bacon green beans. House- caricatures of celebrities/ fajitas. Also seafood. D (daily). dishes of chef Pedro Garzon (down). D (daily). 1800 14th St. whole squid, vegetables, noo- American Cedric Maupillier’s loin with chutney. L (Mon.- made desserts, craft cocktails. local gentry, steaks, jambalaya 2300 Wilson Blvd., 703.841.7297 with chef John Critchley local- NW, 202.733.5131 dles, hot pot. Sakes, shochu classy comfort food (sus- Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun. with D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). 703 King pasta, all-lump crab cakes, Metro: Courthouse ly. Wines from lesser known (glass or bottle). D (Wed.-Sun.). tainable and local): escargot “Frodo’s French toast”). St., 703.838.9090 some Cajun accents by chef regions of France and Spain. DUKEM 1117 V St. NW, 202.588.5841 hush puppies, wood-grilled 208 Queen St., 703.683.0300 Sert Ruamthong. L (Mon.-Fri.), JACK’S BARBECUE D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). 1622 Ethiopian Expat haven for steak with bearnaise sauce, MOUNT VERNON INN D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). 214 King Barbecue Airy, industrial 14th St. NW, 202.588.5500 communal-style, spice-rich LE DIPLOMATE five-grain risotto, key lime BLACKWALL HITCH Southern Candlelit dining St., 703.683.6868 space named for a legendary kitfo, tibs, vegetarian dishes to French From Philly’s Stephen pie, baked Alaska. Kids menu. Seafood Waterfront dining with George and Martha’s Virginia cowboy and dish- BEN’S CHILI BOWL scoop with spongy injera. VIP Starr: red banquettes, zinc- Cocktails, beers on tap. room with three bars, throwback favorites hoe- THE WHARF ing up smoky Texas-style Southern Former pool hall Bar with Ethiopian art. NFL on topped bar and a “garden Green-friendly interior with named for an 1800s sailor’s cakes, peanut chestnut soup, Seafood Since 1971 in a 200- barbecue by Food Network serving chili half-smokes, big-screen TV. Live jazz. L & room” for Michael Abt’s steak wood from an Amish barn. knot. Seafood classics, plus plus bacon cheddar burger, year-old warehouse near the “Best in Smoke” winner, Matt burgers, cakes to Obama, D (daily), Br (Sun., buffet and frites, foie gras “parfait,” lav- D (Tues.-Sun.), Br (Sat.-Sun.). flatbreads, salads, burgers, duck with apricot sauce, fried river: lobster, steaks, mahi Lang. Mexican flavors in sides et. al. since 1958, now sport- coffee ceremony). 1114-1118 ender roast duck, Dover sole 1813 Columbia Road NW, steaks. Chocolate truffles, chicken, steaks. Fireplace. Live mahi, baked crab, shellfish such as esquites (elote corn ing new mural of African- U St. NW, 202.667.8735 meuniere, sorbets. D (daily), 202.234.6732 Smith Island cake. Gluten free, music some nights. L (Mon.- tower, “cowboy” ribeye, po’ salad) and coleslaw. Mini American luminaries B (Mon.- Br (Sat.-Sun.). 1601 14th St. NW, late night. Live music most Fri.), D (Tues.-Sat.), Br (Sat.-Sun.). boys, pastas, key lime chess pies by local makers. Full bar Sat.), L & D (daily). 1213 U St. NW, ESTADIO 202.332.3333 RUMBA CAFE nights. L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), 3200 Mount Vernon Memorial pie. Kids’ menu. Bar. L (Mon.- for smoked whiskey sour, 202.667.0909 Metro: U St.- Spanish Bullfighter murals, Latin Amidst art of “the Latin Br (Sat.-Sun.). 5 Cameron St., Highway, Mount Vernon, Va., Sat.), D (daily), Br (Sun.). Jack’s mule. Beer and wine. Cardozo; 1001 H St. NE, soccer star images and ADAMS MORGAN American experience,” hearty 703.739.6090 703.780.0 011 119 King St., 703.836.2836 L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.- 202.733.1895; 1725 Wilson Blvd., pintxos (small bites) plus GRILL FROM IPANEMA soups, mole, plus mojitos, Sun.). 2761 Washington Blvd., Arlington, Va., 571.312.1091 sherry-glazed sablefish, tortil- Brazilian Alcy De Souza’s caipirinhas. Bar, live music late: CHART HOUSE RESTAURANT EVE ARLINGTON, VA. 703.875.0477 la Espanola (potato-onion authentic seafood stews, Thurs. tango, Fri. salsa, Sat. Seafood On Old Town wa- American Upscale bistro, smart LIBERTY TAVERN COMPASS ROSE omelette). Bread baked on Brazilian paella and pastas, South American pop-rock, terfront, restaurant with sommelier Todd Thrasher and American Bustling bar for YONA Global Colorful rowhouse by site. Sangria, Spanish wines, filet with Madeira wine sauce, Sun. Cuban troubadour. Late- fresh seafood and capital Cathal Armstrong’s prize- ‘Hemingway’ daiquiris and a Japanese, Korean Chef Jonah NPR’s globetrotting David slushies. Bar till late. L (Fri.), feijoada, caipirinhas served night menu. D (daily), Br (Sun.). views. Crab soup, snapper winning fare. Foie gras terrine, mellow (upstairs) dining room Kim’s noodle bar and small Greene and wife for interna- D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). 1520 beneath “palm trees.” Happy 2443 18th St. NW, 202.588.5501 Hemingway, prime rib, “hot Basque stew, antelope with for exceptional meals from plates izakaya with partner tional street food favorites. 14th St. NW, 202.319.1404 hour with specials (Mon.-Fri.). chocolate” lava cake. Beer, ramp cream, artisanal chees- smoky octopus to lobster Mike Isabella, fusing Korean Georgian khachapuri, El D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun., three TAIL UP GOAT wine, whiskeys. L (Mon.- es. Tasting menu: five courses fettucine, Granny Smith apple flavors with Japanese tech- Salvadorean pupusas, Turkish GHIBELLINA courses $22.95; add $15 un- American Up-and-comers Sat.), D (daily), Br (Sun.). ($105), seven courses ($140); pizza and key lime creme niques. Non-traditional balik ekmek, Lebanese lamb Italian Sleek-meets-rustic limited mimosas). Live music with lauded resumes (Komi, 1 Cameron St., 703.684.5080 wine extra. L (Mon.-Fri.), brulee. L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), ramens, Korean-style beef kefta. Private dinners for up to “Italian gastro-pub” for Tuscan second Sun. till 10 p.m. Little Serow) in their own D (Mon.-Sat.). Bar and lounge Br (Sat.-Sun.). 3195 Wilson Blvd., tartare, uni and caviar-topped eight in glam Bedouin-style fare: seafood, veal, calamari, 1858 Columbia Road NW, laid-back Michelin-starred JOE THEISMANN’S late. 110 S. Pitt St., 703.706.0450 703.465.9360 Metro: Clarendon waffles. Eclectic drinks tent. D (daily), Br (Sun.). 1346 pizzas, salumi, pastas, porter- 202.986.0757 spot. Inventive twists on clas- American Redskins QB’s mixing European wines, T St. NW, 202.506.4765 house steak for two. Beers, sics: smoked potato ravioli, longtime (c.1975) neighbor- TRADEMARK LYON HALL Japanese beers and Asian- cocktails, wines. L (Tues.-Fri.), MADAM’S ORGAN seaweed sourdough, lamb hood grill, sports bar with American In the Westin, gas- French Brasserie in 1940s themed cocktails. L & D (daily). DOI MOI D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). 1610 Soul Food Live music nightly ribs, pistachio roll with labneh its own menu, star athlete tropub named for nearby Moderne building with 20 4000 Wilson Blvd., Suite C, Asian Venture of star chef 14th St. NW, 202.803.2389 at this rowdy bar where red- gelato and fennel honey. portraits, TVs. Cozy booths for patent office (see famous European beers on tap, many 703.465.1100 Metro: Ballston Haidar Karoum, inspired by heads get a half-price drink D (daily). 1827 Adams Mill beer-battered fish and chips, inventor photos). Matthew wines by the glass. Mussels, Thai, Viet street foods: curries, special. Comfort foods like Road NW, 202.986.9600 pastas, pan-seared scallops, Miller’s British spins on Bass pommes frites, schnitzel,

noodles, crepe with mussels fried chicken, meatloaf, mac SKEIKY ©FARRAH filet mignon, crab cakes. Steps Ale fish and chips, beer-can trout, rabbit confit, grills,

30 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 31 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Food

BETHESDA, MD. Ave. NE, 202.543.7656 Metro: required via website, five ed) $90 (seven small dishes, AMERICAN TAP ROOM Union Station weeks in advance. D (Tues.- sushi, dessert). French LEGAL SEA FOODS Saloons & Pubs Old meets Fri.). 715 8th St. SE, 202.595.7375 Burgundies, sakes, Japanese Seafood Famed for its lobster, new with flat-screens, 20 CHARLIE PALMER STEAK Metro: Eastern Market beers. In shopping center raw bar, clam chowder and beers on draft/40+ in bottles, Steaks Sleek space with dra- east of avenue. L & D (daily). an award-winning wine list. cans. Grilled New York strip, matic, floating “wine cube,” ROSE’S LUXURY 5455 Wisconsin Ave., Chevy Most locations L & D (daily). wings, crab mac and cheese, Capitol views, American American In a Barracks Row Chase, Md., 301.961.1644 Metro: 704 7th St. NW, 202.347.0007 salads, flatbreads, jambalaya. wines and Mike Ellis send- “farmhouse,” Michelin-starred, Friendship Heights Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown; L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.- ing out oysters, “cowboy” no-reservations spot for small 2301 Jefferson Davis Highway, Sun.). 7278 Woodmont Ave., ribeye, crab cakes, rich sides. plates (pork and lychee salad, CHINATOWN/ Arlington, Va., 703.415.1200 Bethesda, Md., 301.656.1366 L (Mon.-Fri.), D (Mon.-Sat.). popcorn soup with lobster, PENN QUARTER Metro: Crystal City; Reagan Metro: Bethesda; 1811 Library 101 Constitution Ave. NW, octopus, pasta) or family-style CARMINE’S National Airport, Terminal C, St., Reston, Va., 703.834.0400 202.547.8100 meals (smoked brisket, fried Italian Manhattan legend, Arlington, Va., 703.413.9810 chicken). Upstairs bar (same now D.C.’s largest restaurant Metro: National Airport; Tysons BLACK’S BAR & KITCHEN GARRISON food). D (Mon.-Sat.). 717 8th St. (20,300 square feet). Family- Galleria, 2001 International American Prize-winning chef American Culinary Institute SE, 202.580.8889 Metro: style platters of pastas, chick- Drive, McLean, Va., 703.827.8900 Jeff Black in his glam spot of America-trained Robert Eastern Market en, steak, tiramisu. Well-priced with patio, oyster bar. Raw bar, Weland partnering with a wines, classic cocktails. Two- MASTRO’S charcuterie, wood-fire grilled local farm for whole-roasted TED’S BULLETIN level lounge, nine private Steakhouse Local outpost of meats and fish, seafood stew. vegetables, house-made pas- American Lively spot with rooms. Groups welcome. popular West Coast altar to Wine Spectator awarded col- tas, grilled fish, steaks. Gina vintage decor and leather L & D (daily). Bar till late. Valet. beef in a sophisticated setting lection. L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily). Chersevani’s cocktail menu, booths. All-day breakfast, 425 7th St. NW, 202.737.7770 with servers in white jackets. Br (Sun.). 7750 Woodmont Ave., Euro-focused wines. D (Tues.- BBQ, chili, “supper” dishes. Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown or Wet-aged steaks, chops, plus 301.652.5525 Metro: Bethesda Sun.), Br (Sat.-Sun.). 524 8th St. Pastries like pies and “pop Judiciary Sq seafood, sushi. Decadent SE, 202.506.2445 tarts.” Front window kitchen. sides and desserts (warm PASSIONFISH Bar with milkshakes, malts and CHINA CHILCANO butter cake for two). Extensive Seafood Dramatic space GOOD STUFF EATERY cocktails. B, L & D (daily). 505 Asian-Latin Celeb chef José wine list. Live music nightly. with “floating” stairs, Chris American “Top Chef” con- 8th St. SE, 202.544.8337 Metro: Andrés’s colorful spot mixing L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily). 600 13th Clime plating fish from many testant Spike Mendelsohn’s Eastern Market; 1818 14th St. Peru’s native Criollo, Chinese St. NW, 202.347.1500 Metro: oceans. Kids’ menu, sushi specialty burgers, hand-cut NW, 202.265.8337; 11948 Market and Japanese. Pork dump- Metro Center chef, cocktails. L (Mon.-Fri.), fries, old-fashioned shakes. St., Reston, Va., 703.956.9510 lings, yellow potatoes in spicy D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). 7187 Counter service, communal cream sauce. Shaved ice, MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S Woodmont Ave., 301.358.6116 table, cell phone charging CHEVY CHASE sweet custard, plus one of the Seafood Famed West Coast Metro: Bethesda; 11960 stations. L & D (Mon.-Sat.). KOBO largest pisco collections in restaurant for fresh catches, Democracy Drive, Reston, Va., 303 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, Japanese Brothers Piter and the U.S. D (daily). 418 7th St. NW, oysters, draft beers, single 703.230.3474 202.543.8222 Metro: Capitol Handry Tjian’s restaurant 202.783.0941 Metro: Archives or malts. Hours vary by site. 1625 South; 2110 Crystal Drive, inside Sushiko for kappo-style Gallery Pl-Chinatown K St. NW, 202.861.2233 Metro: CAPITOL HILL Arlington, Va., 703.415.4663 tastings ($130 Mon.-Wed. Farrgut West; 901 F St. NW, AMBAR Metro: Crystal City vegan only; $160 Thurs.-Sat. FIOLA Find the best of the city 202.639.9330 Metro: Gallery Pl- Balkan Ivan Iricanin bringing non-vegan only). In shop- Italian Beard-winning Fabio Chinatown;145 National Plaza, his Belgrade original to D.C. THE MONOCLE RESTAURANT ping center east of avenue. Trabocchi in his Michelin- Oxon Hill, Md., 301.567.6224; Serbia meets New World American Since 1960, Valanos D (daily). 5455 Wisconsin Ave., starred “villa” for lobster ravi- Reston Town Center, Reston, in slow-cooked meats and family hospitality drawing Chevy Chase, Md., 301.961.1644 oli, ribeye, seafood. Themed Va., 703.481.6600; 8484 mezze, white veal soup, politicos (JFK, Nixon, women Metro: Friendship Heights tastings, three-six courses Westpark Drive, McLean, cheese pie. Balkan wines, senators caucus) with crab ($90-$150, wines extra). Va., 703.848.8000; 2010 beers, 30 varieties of Serbian cakes, rib eye, classic desserts. RANGE L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily). 678 Crystal Drive, Arlington, Va., rakia. Bar late. Hours vary Bar menu. Valet. L & D (Mon.- American “Top Chef” finalist Indiana Ave. NW, 202.628.2888 703.413.6400 Metro: Crystal City by location. 523 8th St. SE, Fri.). Weekends for private Bryan Voltaggio’s farm-to- Metro: Archives 202.813.3039 Metro: Eastern events only. 107 D St. NE, table entrées and small plates MINIBAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Market; 2901 Wilson Blvd., 202.546.4488 Metro: Union from roasts to charcuterie. JALEO Spanish Beard-winner José Arlington, Va., 703.975.9663 Station Open kitchen, raw bars, bak- Spanish Tapas (60 hot and Andrés’ imaginative Michelin- Metro: Clarendon ery. In Chevy Chase Pavilion. cold) and paella by José starred “laboratory” for 30-40 PINEAPPLE AND PEARLS D (Tues.-Sun.), Br (Sat.-Sun.). Andrés and team. Spanish tastes CAFE BERLIN American James Beard winner Chevy Chase Pavilion, wines, sherries. L & D (daily). calls “culinary high-wire acts.” German & European In Aaron Silverman’s elegant 5335 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Weekday happy hour. 480 7th Twelve seats. $275 (pre-tax, three former town houses, Michelin-starred follow-up 202.803.8020 Metro: Friendship St. NW, 202.628.7949 Metro: pre-tip), beverages extra. traditional and light fare: to next door’s Rose’s Luxury. Heights Gallery Pl-Chinatown ; 7271 Reservations required (book schnitzels, pork medallions, Changing tasting menu in Woodmont Ave., Bethesda, online. Two months available goulasch. Housemade cakes, dining room or chef’s counter SUSHIKO Md., 301.913.0003; 2250 Crystal at a time, starting at 10 a.m. tarts. German wines and (roughly 11 courses: $280, tax, Japanese Chef team’s artful Dr., Arlington, Va., 703.413.8181 the first Monday of each beers. Popular sidewalk tip and drinks included/$255 sushi, sashimi and 35-50 month). D (Tues.-Sat.). 855 tables. L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), non-alcoholic). Same menu in specials. Omakase (chef’s E St. NW, 202.393.0812 Metro: Br (Sun.). 322 Massachusetts bar ($180, tax and tip includ- choice) $60+. Tasting menus Archives ed, drinks extra). Reservations (reservations recommend-

32 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 33 Food AN UNPARALLELED Food DINING EXPERIENCE OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOM blanc, bouillabaisse, caviar. Seafood Swank “oceanliner” WASHINGTON DC Aggie Chin turning out stel- where celebs, power lunchers lar sweets: citrus pavlova. go for fresh catches. Alaskan 600 13TH STREET NW | 202.347.1500 Extensive, France-heavy wine King crab, Coho salmon, list. Valet parking at dinner. Dover sole. Also crab cakes, L (Mon.-Fri.), D (Mon.-Sat.). steaks, oyster bar. Valet $12. 900 16th St. NW, 202.506.3833 L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily). 1201 F St. NW, 202.347.2277 Metro: MORTON’S Metro Center Steakhouse Locals and power lunchers digging into por- RASIKA terhouse, New York strip, filet Indian Beard-winner Vikram mignon, lobster. Hours vary Sunderam in open kitchen by location. 1050 Connecticut with griddle, barbecue, Ave. NW, 202.955.5997 Metro: tandoori, curries. Pre-theater Farragut West; 3251 Prospect ($35), 100 wines; bar with St. NW, 202.342.6258; 1750 exotic cocktails. L (Mon.-Fri.), Crystal Drive, Arlington, Va., D (mon.-Sat.) 633 D St. NW, The very best Alexandria has to offer in the 703.418.1444 Metro: Crystal City; 202.637.1222 11956 Market St., Reston, Va., heart of historic Old Town. 703.796.0128 WOK AND ROLL Asian Once the Surratt House Perfect for all your group events. THE PRIME RIB where Lincoln assassins con- Veteran-Owned FOR ADDITIONAL LOCATIONS, VISIT Steakhouse Zagat-rated No. 1 spired, now restaurant with WWW.MASTROSRESTAURANTS.COM steakhouse in D.C., plus Food authentic tastes of China plus MASTROSRESTAURANTS & Wine Magazine top five sushi bar, big screen, happy 214 King Street, Alexandria, VA 22314 romantic restaurants in U.S. @MASTROSOFFICIAL hour specials, upstairs private (703) 683-6868 | www.warehouseoldtown.com with USDA prime cuts, lump karaoke lounge. L (Mon.-Fri.), crab cakes, lobster. Lively bar, D (daily). Carryout and deliv- pianist (Mon.-Thurs.), bassist/ ery. 604 H St. NW, 202.347.4656 pianist (Fri.-Sat.), starting at Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown 7 p.m. Fine wines. L (Mon.-Fri.), D (Mon.-Sat.). Jackets for men ZAYTINYA (provided) during dinner. Free Mediterranean José Andrés’s valet parking after 5 p.m. Santorini-esque spot for 2020 K St. NW, 202.466.8811 mezze ($6–$12) of Greece, THAN Lebanon and Turkey. Two- WE’RE MORE DUPONT CIRCLE tiered mezzanine, 50-seat bar. ANKARA L & D (daily). 701 9th St. NW, Turkish Aslanturk family’s 202.638.0800 Metro: Gallery Pl- MEATS THE PLATE contemporary and classic Chinatown cuisine in a chic, modern set- ting. Pide (flat breads), grilled DOWNTOWN BETHESDA DOWNTOWN DC kabobs, hot and cold mezze. EAT AT NATIONAL PLACE 7400 Wisconsin Ave. 1050 Connecticut Ave. Spacious patio. L (Mon.-Sat.), International Convenient 301.657.2650 202.955.5997 D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun., a la carte food hall with a dozen eat- or bottomless, traditional eries (Five Guys, TaKorean, GEORGETOWN BALTIMORE Turkish items). 1320 19th St. NW, Grill Kabob). Happy hour and 3251 Prospect St. 300 S. Charles St. 202.293.6301 Metro: Dupont pre-theater specials. Free 202.342.6258 410.547.8255 Circle (South) Wi-Fi, TVs for cable news and sports. B & L (Mon.-Sat.), Fine Seafood–Historic Setting ARLINGTON RESTON ASIA 54 D (Mon.-Fri.). 13th and F sts. 1750 Crystal Dr. 11956 Market St. Asian Across from Hotel Historic 18th Century 703.418.1444 703.796.0128 NW, 202.662.1200 Metro: Metro Palomar, sleek spot with Center (built circa 1790). temple-style art serving Vietnamese, Japanese, MIRABELLE ♦ Chinese and Thai favorites. French James Beard Award Featuring Outdoor Seating & Extensive sushi bar menu, winner and former White happy hour specials. L & House chef Frank Ruta in his Private Room for Group Events. D (daily). 2122 P St. NW, own kitchen blocks from the 119 King Street Alexandria, VA 22314 202.296.1950 Metro Dupont executive mansion. Elegant Circle dining room for refined Gallic (703) 836-2836| www.wharfrestaurant.com Veteran-Owned cuisine: beef tartare, boudin

34 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 35 Food Eat, Drink, SHAW Food A world of fl avors, steps from Chinatown, the BUCA DI BEPPO 1912 I (Eye) St. NW, 202.293.6000 Convention Center and U Street nightlife. LADURÉE Italian “Immigrant Southern” Metro: Farragut West French In a historic store- to-share pizza, pastas, chicken Use our free mobile app, DineinShaw, front on the main drag, chic to see over 100 options. carbonara in two portion EL CHALAN Parisian sweets house spe- www.shawmainstreets.org sizes. Over-the-top 1950s Peruvian D.C.’s oldest Peruvian cializing in delicate macarons decor and reserve-ahead cafe with lomo saltado (filet “ ” and pastries, chocolates “Pope’s Room.” L & D (daily). strips with fried potato), South - Washington Post and ice cream, all made on 1825 Connecticut Ave. NW, American-style paella drawing the premises. Gifts (candles, 202.232.8466 Metro: Dupont World Bank crowd. Touted by totes). Also available here: Circle (North) Hispanic Magazine as among “Favorite Fast Bites of the Year” Cafe for breakfast, brunch, top 50 U.S. Latin restaurants. —RAMMY Awards, 2017 Masa, Mole & Mezcal lunch, afternoon tea and HONEYSUCKLE L (Mon.-Fri.), D (Mon.-Sat.). 1924 1921 8th Street, NW, #125 1250 9th Street, NW aperitifs. Union Station: To-go

New Southern Former Vidalia I (Eye) St. NW, 202.293.2765 Metro: 202-864-4321 www.cavagrill.com 202-621-9695 | www.espitadc.com only. Daily 8 a.m.-7 p.m. 3060 space now exuding rock-and- Farragut West “New Restaurant M St. NW, 202.737.0492 ; Union roll flair with tattoo-themed of the Year” Station, 50 Massachusetts Ave. mural and black-and-white NE, 202.789.5960 GEORGETOWN —RAMMY Awards, 2017 portraits of favorite musicians. 1789 RESTAURANT Award Winning Cocktails with: In the kitchen, Hamilton American Federal “BestAward Cocktail Winning Bar Cocktails in America with: ” 808 V Street, NW MARTIN’S TAVERN Johnson in his old stomp- with cozy rooms and fire- —Tales of the— Spirited Cocktail Awards, 2017 2017 202-847-4980 American Since 1933, politicos ing grounds, sending out places drawing presidents 124 Blagden Alley, NW | 202-316-9396 (from JFK to Joe), Supreme www.hazelrestaurant.com Southern dishes with Nordic and politicos. Colicchio alum Martin’s Tavern has had the honor of www.columbiaroomdc.com Court justices, spies, celebs, influences. Shenandoah Samuel Kim adding modern serving every President from Harry S. Georgetown friends have Truman (Booth 6) to George W. Bush lamb tartare, Norwegian touches to a traditional menu. (Table 12). On June 24, 1953, JFK proposed been saying “Meet me at Fjord trout, Carolina shrimp Lauren Petri crafting exquisite to Jackie in Booth 3. Martin’s.” Classic fare: tavern salad. D (daily). 1990 M St. NW, desserts. Free valet parking. “Upscale Brunch of the Year” burger, prime rib, fish and —RAMMY Awards, 2017 Sushi and Thai Cuisine 202.659.1990 D (daily). 1226 36th St. NW, chips, lobster risotto, daily 202.965.1789 202.333.7370 www.martinstavern.com 1414 9th Street, NW specials. Shaded patio, weath- 1264 Wisconsin Ave NW, (202) 588-5810 SUSHI TARO er permitting. Ask to see Washington, DC 20007 www.immthai.com Japanese Michelin-starred CHAIA history brochure. L (Mon.- second-story spot with tatami Vegetarian Brick-and-mortar Here today. Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). rooms, kimono-clad hostess outpost of popular farmers 1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW, ® 1914 9TH Street, NW and exotic sushi (flute fish, live market stand. Inventive tacos 202.333.7370 191420 92.TH6 Stre86.29et66, NW scallops) by master chef Nobu with handmade corn tortillas where tomorrow. www.DinoinShaw.com 202.686.2966 Yamazaki and team. L (Mon.- (butternut squash, creamy ® MOUNT VERNON Here today. www.DinoinShaw.com Fri.), D (Mon.-Sat.). 1503 17th kale) plus sides, beverages, SQUARE St. NW, 202.462.8999 Metro: desserts, all gluten free. L & ® where you are. ACADIANA Dupont Circle D (daily). 3207 Grace St. NW, whereBeforetomor you travel, row. Cajun/Creole Louisiana char- 202.333.5222 (and where you’re going.) broiled oysters, soft-shell crab, FOGGY BOTTOM/ red snapper, BBQ shrimp, WEST END CHEZ BILLY SUD go to wheretraveler.com gumbos. Plantation decor. BEEFSTEAK French Elegant bistro by mu- American and French wines, American From José Andrés, sician brothers Eric and Ian and seeBefore where you to travel, shop, dine mint juleps. Bar. Live jazz Sun. assembly line-style, fast- Hilton (Thievery Corporation) Kids’ menu. L (Mon.-Fri.), casual for veg-heavy bowls for beef Bourguignon, steak andgo to play wheretraveler.com once you arrive. D (daily), Br (Sun.). Valet park- (some meat, too). Fresh- frites, frisée au lardons. ing p.m. $7. 901 New York Ave. Step-by-step directions pressed juices, wine, local L (Tues.-Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.- and see where to shop, dine NW, enter 9th St., 202.408.8848 craft beer, Spindrift sodas. Sun.). 1039 31st St. NW, from where you are to Metro: Mt. Vernon Sq L & D (daily). 800 22nd St. NW, 202.965.2606 wheretraveler.com where you want to go. 202.296.1421 Metro: Foggy and play once you arrive. ALTA STRADA Bottom; 1528 Connecticut FIOLA MARE Info only locals know. wheretraveler.com Italian Prized chef Michael Ave. NW, 202.986.7597 Metro: Seafood Beard-winner Fabio Now on your iPhone. Schlow paying homage to Dupont Circle (North) Trabocchi’s venture by the Italian classics like tagliatelle river. Brinn Sinnott plating wheretraveler.com Bolognese, roasted branzino, CHALIN’S oysters, smoked cod, Maine grilled meats. Crudo bar, thin- Chinese Mandarin, Szechuan, lobster, calamari-squid ink Info only locals know. crust pizzas. D (daily). 465 K Cantonese dishes by chefs risotto, whole fish de-boned St. NW, 202.629.4662 Metro: Mt. with a “century of experience.” at table, lemon tart, chocolate Vernon Sq Contemporary takes on tra- bon bons. Cocktails to mock- ditional dumplings, seafood tails. L (Tues.-Fri.), D (daily), CASA LUCA (20+ dishes), pork, duck, beef, Br (Sat.-Sun.). Valet. 3050 K St. Italian Fabio Trabocchi’s noodles. Vegetarian, low-so- NW, 202.628.0065 newly redesigned os- dium, low-fat items. Carry- teria named for his son. out/delivery. L & D (daily). The new travel website from Where Magazine > Piedmont-style beef tartare, lobster gnocchi fra diavolo,

36 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 37 2461 18th St., NW Washington, DC AUTHENTIC SZECHUAN, Food 202.667.5370 MANDARIN & Food CANTONESE CUISINE “Where the Beautiful grilled beef rib eye caccia- “steak tartare.” “Timeline” of People go to get Ugly.” CAPO DRIFT ON 7TH tore, Parmesan churros. cocktails from 1670’s clarified “One of the 25 best Delicatessen Longtime Florida Seafood A casual nauti- Bomboloni with chocolate milk punch to 2005’s five- bars in America” fixture’s D.C. foray with hoag- cal-themed restaurant for sauce, Nonna’s pastry cart. spice penicillin. Inside MGM ies (hot and cold), meatball sustainable seafood in global -Playboy Magazine 16 wines by the glass, cock- National Harbor resort. parm plate, lasagna by the preparations. Ceviche, hake tails/mocktails. L & D (daily), D (daily). 101 MGM National REDHEADS GET 1/2 PRICE pound, DIY salads. Cannoli. hushpuppies, “daily catch” Br (Sat.-Sun.). $7 valet. Enter Ave., Oxon Hill, Md., 301.971.6060 BEER, WINE & RAIL DRINKS! B, L & D (daily) till late. 715 specials, whole-roasted fish, 11th St. 1099 New York Ave. LIVE MUSIC Dine-in ~ Carry-out ~ Delivery ~ Online Ordering Florida Ave. NW, 202.827.8012 bouillabaisse. Classic com- NW, 202.628.1099 Metro: Metro NORTHEAST EVERY NIGHT 1912 I (Eye) St. NW 202.293.6000 Metro: Shaw-Howard U fort-food desserts like banana Center or McPherson Sq LE GRENIER www.madamsorgan.com split, root beer float. (Mon.- French Homey, yet romantic www.chalins.com CAVA Fri.), D (Mon.-Sat.), Br (Sat.-Sun.). NATIONAL HARBOR two-story bistro with antique Mediterranean Find Greek 1819 7th St. NW, 202.350.4350 FISH BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS attic setting. Classic fare and Mediterranean cooking Metro: Shaw-Howard U Seafood Beard winner José elegantly presented: beef at this concept created by Andrés inside MGM National Bourguignon, cassoulet, sal- three childhood friends. ESPITA MEZCALERIA Harbor with expansive patio/ ads, cheeses, desserts. Diners to this fast-casual spot Mexican Lively space with vi- views for local fare in global Full bar. D (Tues.-Sun.), Br (Sat.- can custom-build salads and brant murals setting the stage preparations. Tuna tartare, Sun.). 502 H St. NE, 202.544.4999 grain bowls, complete with for Alexis Samayoa’s (WD-50, lobster jambalaya. Live a wide variety of toppings Empellon) Oaxacan fare. seafood in tanks. D (daily). PIDZZA including dips (“crazy feta”), Handmade tortillas for tacos Maryland Fry Bar (5 seats) for Turkish Assembly line-style proteins (braised lamb), fresh and tlayudas (crisp tortillas THE MONOCLE RESTAURANT Authentic Ethiopian Restaurant tastings (8 courses $40, “pizzas” with Turkish twist CAPITOL HILL veggies, dressings (Sriracha topped with beans and other 11 courses $50). D (Wed.-Sun., inside new development in Beef, Lamb & Vegetarian Specialties Greek yogurt). L & D (daily). ingredients), ceviches, seven reservations recommended). emerging zone. Signatures 707 H St. NW, 202.719.0111; types of moles and six types 101 MGM National Ave., Oxon like “The LMC” (ground beef, STEAK BLUE CRAB POLITICOS 1334 9th Street, NW 3105 14th St. NW, 202.695.8100; of salsas. Extensive mezcal list, Hill, Md., 301.971.6050 tomato, onion, green pepper, 1222 Connecticut Ave. NW, plus aguas frescas, horchata. L spices) or DIY with toppings 107 D STREET, NE CAPITOL HILL 202.299.9703 202.370.6636; 1921 8th St. NW, & D (daily). Bar later. 1250 9th St. MARCUS like roasted curry cauliflower 202-546-4488 THEMONOCLE.COM www.chercherrestaurant.com 202.864.4321; 4237 Wisconsin NW, 202.621.9695. American Celebrity chef be- and sucuk (spicy Turkish beef Ave. NW, 202.695.8115. hind New York’s Red Rooster sausage). L & D (daily). 2000 ETETE inside MGM National Harbor. Hecht Ave. NE, 202.635.0890 CHERCHER Ethiopian Fusion Critically Expansive space with bio- Ethiopian A friendly, casual praised gathering place, graphical decor for serving THE TAVERN AT IVY CITY restaurant serving popular newly re-imagined with comfort foods flavored with SMOKEHOUSE and authentic dishes like global flavors enhancing Samuelsson’s Ethiopian/ American Restaurant with doro wet (chicken stew) classic Ethiopian tastes. Injera Swedish/American back- next-door market for honey and yebeg wet (lamb stew). taco, alligator pepper-crusted ground. Berbere-spiced fried hot-smoked salmon “candy,” ® Vegetarian options, Ethiopian short rib, fish and chips with “yardbird,” “Helga’s” meatballs pastrami smoked salmon where it’s at. coffee. Spices for sale. Full berbere-spiced fries. D (Mon.- and pasta. Globe-trotting tacos, griled steaks, fried Get the latest buzz from our experts 24/7. DC’s FIRST AUTHENTIC bar. L & D (daily). 1334 9th St. Sat.). Bar till late. 1942 9th St. wine list (33 by the glass), local chicken, burgers. Steamed PERUVIAN RESTAURANT NW, 202.299.9703 Metro: Mt. NW, 202.232.7600 Metro: U St- beers, classic cocktails. B, L & D crabs. Beer (11 on tap), wine Vernon Sq Cardozo or Shaw-Howard U (daily) Br (Sat.-Sun.). 101 MGM (mostly West Coast, 15 by the 1924 I Street, NW National Ave., 301.971.6010 glass), cocktails. L & D (daily). Washington, DC CONVIVIAL FRENCH QUARTER 1356 Okie St. NE, 202.529.3300 Near Farragut West American Star chef Cedric BRASSERIE and Foggy Bottom SUCCOTASH The new travel website from Where Magazine > Maupillier’s modern take on Cajun/Creole Louisiana meets Southern Star chef Edward SHAW Reservations: 202-293-2765 • www.elchalandc.com French cafe-style food (bouil- D.C. in jambalaya, etouffee, Lee’s “dirty” fried chicken with ARROZ labaisse with catfish, coq au shrimp and grits, plus salads spicy gochujang sauce, wa- Spanish Celeb chef Mike vin fried chicken). D (daily). and oysters (raw, fried and termelon and fried peanuts. Isabella’s glam Marriott 801 O St. NW, 202.525.2870 charbroiled). Bananas Foster, Pecan pie. Bar heavy on whis- Marquis spot with Michael Metro: Mt. Vernon Sq beignets. Abita on tap, New We invite you to key, rye, bourbon (Pappy Van Rafidi (of Michael Mina) in Orleans-themed cocktails, Winkle). Generous portions. the kitchen. Spanish faves our cozy restaurant THE DABNEY wine, spirits. D (daily), Br (Sat.- L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.- with upgrades, plus flavors on Capitol Hill for American Jeremiah Sun.). 1544 9th St. NW, Sun.). 186 Waterfront St., Oxon of Portugal and Morocco. Contemporary Asian authentic German Langhorne’s Michelin-starred 703.357.1957 Metro: Shaw- Hill, Md., 301.567.8900 Namesake rice dishes topped restaurant. Sushi, Chinese, cuisine & beer. Enjoy rustic digs in Blagden Alley for Howard U with duck breast or soft-shell Thai, and Vietnamese. our outdoor patio, open-hearth cooking, with Happy hour specials, VOLTAGGIO BROTHERS crab. Sangrias on tap, sherry weather permitting. ingredients from rooftop gar- HAIKAN STEAK HOUSE cocktails. Extensive wine list. Monday-Saturday, 3-7 PM. den. Menu changes daily. Japanese Bright, modernist For reservations, call or A short walk from Steakhouse Celeb chef bros D (daily). 901 Massachusetts D (Tues.-Sun.). 122 Blagden backdrop for Sapporo-style go to OpenTable. Take out GERMAN CUISINE Union Station Michael and Bryan Voltaggio’s Ave. NW, 202.869.3300 Metro: Alley NW, 202.450.1015 Metro: ramen, plus playful small & delivery. Across from IN THE NATION’S CAPITAL in a brick row house. residence-like digs for dry- Mt. Vernon Sq Hotel Palomar. Mt. Vernon Sq plates (mapo tofu poutine, aged USDA Prime, American 322 Massachusetts Ave, NE • Washington, DC “pea-sar” Caesar salad with Wagyu, wedge salad with 202.543.7656 • cafeberlin-dc.com peas). Washington Post rated gorgonzola “snow,” tuna 2122 P ST, NW | ASIA54WASHINGTON.COM | 202.296.1950 2 1/2 stars. Bar late. L (Fri.-Sat.),

38 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 39 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Sights

D (daily). 805 V St. NW., in pastrami on milk bread. VIRGINIA SUBURBS chicken sandwich, ribs, Natural History Museum 202.299.1000 Metro: Shaw- Also smoked chicken, build- AND BEYOND shrimp ‘n grits. L & D (daily). One of nature’s most mysterious creatures Howard U your-own creations, platters THE INN AT LITTLE 301 Water St. SE, 202.479.4616 and breakfast. Beer, wine. : Navy Yard is getting a star turn at this Smithsonian site. HAZEL At Walter E. Washington American Prestigious Michelin- The exhibition “Narwhal: Revealing an Arctic American Chef Rob Rubba’s Convention Center. B & L starred foodie destination fea- ODYSSEY global-inspired “medi- (daily), D (Thurs.-Sat.). 1239 9th turing a romantic country inn Dining Cruises Glass-enclosed Legend,” open through 2019, provides Inuit um” plates in festive digs. St. NW, 202.465.4822 Metro: with courtyard and regional vessel with live band, monu- Charcoal-grilled branzino, Mt. Vernon Sq cuisine by Patrick O’Connell. mental views. Three-course perspectives and the latest science on this “gnocchi bokki” pork and kim- Prix-fixe ($218, +$125 with meals. Three-hour dinner de- ocean dweller. A surprise: the narwhal’s chi ragu. Tasting-style menus, UPPER NORTHWEST wine). Chef’s table for 2-12 partures: Mon.-Thurs. 7 p.m.; Peking duck revamped. BINDAAS ($595 surcharge). Ninety Fri. and Sat. 8 p.m.; Sun. 6 p.m. unicorn-like horn (pictured) is actually a tooth, Eclectic wines, inventive Indian Beard-winner Vikram minutes down country roads Two-hour lunch departures: but its function remains unclear. Hypotheses desserts. D (daily). 808 V St. Sunderam’s ode to Indian from D.C. Must reserve; best Mon.-Fri. noon; Sat.-Sun. NW, 202.847.4980 Metro: Shaw- street food, savory snacks to hire driver. D (daily). Middle 11:30 a.m. Boarding one hour include a fighting weapon, a biological symbol Howard U like crab and rice noodles. and Main sts., Washington, Va., before. Holiday and special- Beer, cocktails, wine pair- 540.675.3800 ty cruises. 600 Water St. SW, of fertility or a sensory organ. Constitution Ave. at IMM THAI ings. D (daily), Br (Sat.-Sun.). 866.306.2469 Metro: Waterfront 10th St. NW, 202.633.1000, naturalhistory.si.edu Thai/Japanese With an out- 3309 Connecticut Ave. NW, L’AUBERGE CHEZ FRANCOIS post opening soon on 9th 202.244.6550 Metro: French Haeringer family’s OSTERIA MORINI St. NW, three locations for Cleveland Park Alsatian inn with ta- Italian From Michael White, Bangkok street food (curry bles. Dover sole, sweetbreads, rustic cuisine of the Emilia- HISTORIC HOUSES GUNSTON HALL blacksmith shop, 16-sided 140 Rock Creek Church Road NW, puffs, satay, pad Thai, drunken HIMITSU rack of lamb or six courses Romagna with patio and CARLYLE HOUSE The 1755 Georgian plan- treading barn, reconstruct- 202.829.0436 noodles, spicy eggplant) plus Japanese Cozy space for tuck- ($75-$85). Jacques Brasserie water views. Grilled meats, On the town square, restored tation house of George ed slave cabin. High-tech a full sushi menu. Sushi happy ing into inventive Japanese with pizza, beers on tap. meatballs, baby octopus, mansion of Alexandria found- Mason, who drafted the Ford Orientation Center THE PRESIDENT WOODROW hour daily 4-7 p.m. L (Tues.- fare by Pineapple and Pearls Family dinners. L & D (Tues.- house-made pastas, bass with er John Carlyle, a Scottish Virginia Declaration of Rights. and Donald W. Reynolds WILSON HOUSE Sun.), D (daily). 1360 H St. NE, and Barmini alums. Sushi but Sun.). Brasserie: L (Tues.-Sun.), clams and olives. Excellent merchant. Tours, exhibits, lec- Restored residence features Museum and Education The 1920s time capsule home 202.748.5536; 5832 Georgia Ave. also buttermilk karaage fried D (Tues.-Sun.), Br (Sat.-Sun.). desserts. Small-batch and tures. Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m., murals and fine woodwork. Center. Tours “National to the 28th president after the NW, 202.291.2828 chicken, creative cocktails. Reservations required. 332 sparkling wines, excellent Sun. noon-4 p.m. $5, children Museum and tours. Daily 9:30 Treasure” and “Women of White House. Objects owned D (Tues.-Sat.). 828 Upshur St. Springvale Road, Great Falls, cocktails. L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), $3. 121 N. Fairfax St., Old Town a.m.-4:30 p.m. $10, seniors $8, Mount Vernon.” “Lives Bound by or given to Wilson during KINSHIP NW, no phone Metro: Georgia Va., 703.759.3800 Br (Sat.-Sun.). 301 Water St. SE, Alexandria, 703.549.2997 children $5. 10709 Gunston Together: Slavery at George his presidency. Monthly vin- American Acclaimed chef Eric Ave-Petworth (about 4 blocks) 202.484.0660 Metro: Navy Yard Rd., Mason Neck (20 miles Washington’s Mount Vernon,” tage game nights encourag- Ziebold’s Michelin-starred M&S GRILL MUSEUM south of D.C. via I-95 or Rte. 1), artifacts highlighting 19 ing period attire. Check web- counterpart to sister Metier INDIQUE American Lively chophouse/ SPIRIT OF WASHINGTON AND GARDENS 703.550.9220 enslaved people and their site for schedule. Wed.-Sun. downstairs. Themed menu Indian Newly renovated saloon with garden patio and Dining Cruises Four-level Site of the United Nations 1944 relationship with the first 10 a.m.-4 p.m. $10, seniors $8, (Craft, History, Ingredients, two-level spot for chef K.N. bar, serving aged steaks, en- yacht-style vessel with roof- beginnings. A 19th-century HILLWOOD ESTATE, president, ongoing. Daily students $5, under 12 free. Indulgence) with lobster Vinod’s modern take on trée salads, calamari, oysters, top lounge and lunch/dinner manse (recently renovated) MUSEUMS AND GARDENS 9 a.m.-5 p.m. $20, seniors $19, 2340 S St. NW, 202.387.4062 French toast, grilled Japanese familiar favorites, plus street surf & turf, bone-in ribeye, buffet. DJ, dancing, miles of plus Philip Johnson-designed Cereal heiress Marjorie children (6-11) $10, under Kuroge beef, whole-roasted snacks and entrees from his good sides. Nice wine list, views. Two-hour lunch depar- pavilion. Library for Byzantine, Merriweather Post’s resi- 6 free. Discount packages meat, poultry, fish. Extensive native Kerala. Shrimp puchka many by the glass. Nightly tures: Mon.-Fri. noon, Sat.-Sun. pre-Columbian and garden dence with her czarist treas- available. Admission price in- Neoclassical (1816) man- wine list. D (daily, reservations shots, grilled cod with masala, happy hour. L & D (daily), 11:30 a.m. Three-hour dinner studies. Gift shop. Museum: ures, jewelry. Guided, audio, cludes distillery and gristmill sion in Georgetown, home recommended). 1015 7th St. and spice-infused shepherd’s Br (Sun.). Reston Town Center, departures: Mon.-Thurs. Tues.-Sun. 11:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. printed tours of mansion and three miles away. Sixteen miles of Martha Washington’s NW, 202.737.7700 Metro: Mt. pie, plus complementary 11901 Democracy Drive, 7 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. Ten-acre formal gardens: gardens plus “special access” south of D.C. via G.W. Memorial granddaughter with 5.5-acre Vernon Sq housemade tonics (one with Reston, Va., 703.787.7766 6 p.m. Boarding half hour be- Tues.-Sun. 2-6 p.m. (closed tours. Teas. “Spectacular Parkway, Alexandria, Va., gardens. National Historic garam masala) and cocktails fore departure. Call for prices. until March 15, 2018 for Gems and Jewelry from 703.780.2000 Landmark with largest collec- MAXWELL PARK (Mumbai mule). D (daily), Br WATERFRONT 600 Water St. SW, 866.302.2469 renovations). Museum free. the Merriweather Post tion of George Washington’s American Wine guru Brent (Sat.-Sun.). 3512-14 Connecticut THE ARSENAL AT Metro: Waterfront Gardens $10, seniors $8, stu- Collection,” more than 50 PRESIDENT LINCOLN’S personal items outside of Kroll’s new solo project ded- Ave. NW, 202.244.6600 BLUEJACKET dents/children (12 and under) baubles by Cartier, Van Cleef COTTAGE Mount Vernon. Garden tours icated to the “adventurous American Warehouse space WHALEY’S RAW BAR & $5. Arrange in advance for & Arpels, Harry Winston, et. al., Restored retreat where Lincoln ($3). Guided tours on the imbiber.” More than 50 wines SFOGLINA with onsite brewery near RESTAURANT guided tours. 1703 32nd St. NW, demonstrating Post’s keen drafted the Emancipation hour. Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m., by the glass, stored in four Italian James Beard winner the Southeast Waterfront Seafood Waterfront spot 202.339.6400 collector’s eye, through Proclamation, a national mon- Sun. noon-4 p.m. $10, seniors/ high-tech temperature-con- Fabio Trabocchi highlighting serving new American cuisine for sustainably raised day Jan. 7. Cafe, gift shop. Tues.- ument. Guided tours only, college students/military $8, trolled environments, with hand-made pasta. Classics with stars like rotisserie half boat scallop crudo, seafood FREDERICK DOUGLASS Sun. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $18, reservations online. “American students (5-17) $3, under 5 menu by Oval Room alum (spicy rigatoni, spaghetti), sea- chicken, big salads and a towers, seafood risotto, plus NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE seniors $15, college students By Belief,” the 16th president’s free. Self-guided garden- Tony Conte (charcuterie, sonal specials (beet and goat variety of burgers. Extensive hanger steak, “rosé garden” Hilltop residence of the $10, children (6-18) $5, under 6 policies featuring the immi- only tour $3. 1644 31st St. NW, hand-chopped beef tartare, cheese tortelloni), plus make- beer menu, cocktails, wines. in good weather. Local beers, 19th-century orator and ab- free. Parking. 4155 Linnean Ave. gration act signed into law by 202.965.0400 burrata). D (daily.). 1336 9th St. your-own and family-style L (Mon.-Fri.), D (daily), D (daily), craft cocktails. L (Sat.), D (daily), olitionist, restored to its 1895 NW, 202.686.5807 President Reagan, through NW, no phone at press time tastings. Small plates and “not Br (Sun.). 300 Tingey St. SE, Br (Sun). 301 Water St. SE, appearance with original Oct. 31. Visitor Center: Mon.- NATIONAL pasta” dishes of branzino, 202.524.4862 Metro: Navy Yard 202.484.8800 Metro: Navy Yard objects. By guided tour only. MOUNT VERNON Sat. 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m., Sun. LANDMARKS SMOKED AND STACKED short ribs. Illy coffee, amari. Reserve in advance by call- George Washington’s hilltop 10:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Tours: AFRICAN-AMERICAN American From James Beard L (Tues.-Fri.), D (daily), Br (Sat.- DUE SOUTH ing or visiting website. Daily home by the Potomac River, Mon.-Sat. first tour 10 a.m., last CIVIL WAR MEMORIAL nominee and “Top Chef” Sun.). 4445 Connecticut Ave. Southern Southern hospitality 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 1411 W St. SE, with 14 rooms furnished tour 3 p.m.; Sun. first tour AND MUSEUM star Marjorie Meek-Bradley, a NW, 202.450.1312 Metro: Van on the waterfront. Smoked, 202.426.5961 Metro: Anacostia per a 1799 inventory. The 11 a.m., last tour 3 p.m. $15, Bronzes of African-American

sandwich shop specializing Ness-UDC spiced chicken wings, hot SMITHSONIAN MARTINO, LUCIA AND SHERWOOD D. KATE LORETO, DI ©JAMES first couple’s tomb, gardens, military $12, children (6-12) $5. Union soldiers, sailors; sur-

40 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 41 Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc rounding walls list 200,000 Magna Carta. Daily 10 a.m.- PENTAGON etched names of soldiers and At the Tidal Basin, John 5:30 p.m. (Last admission at U.S. Dept. of Defense HQ and officers. 10th St. & Vermont Ave. Russell Pope’s neoclassical 5 p.m.) Gift shop. Free. 700 nerve center for command NW; museum at 1925 Vermont marble monument for the Pennsylvania Ave. NW (enter ro- and control. On-site memori- Ave. NW (Tues.-Fri. 10 a.m.- third U.S. president and main tunda on Constitution Ave. NW), al (accessible 24 hours) dedi- 6:30 p.m., Sat. till 4 p.m., Sun. author of the Declaration of 877.874.7616 Metro: Archives- cated to 184 lives lost there in noon-4 p.m.), 202.667.2667 Independence. Accessible Navy Memorial the 9/11 attack. Tours Mon.- Metro: U St.-Cardozo 24 hours. Ranger talks Fri. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Reserve MY ELECTION WAS every hour 10 a.m.-11 p.m. NATIONAL MALL online at least one week prior. ARLINGTON NATIONAL Bookstore. Parking (south Pierre L’Enfant’s grand land- Group tours. Free. Army Navy CEMETERY side). South end of 15th St. SW, scape from the U.S. Capitol to Drive & Fern St., Arlington, Va., Interred here, thousands of 202.426.6841 the Lincoln Memorial. All me- 703.697.1776 Metro: Pentagon UNANIMOUS. veterans and government morials free, open 24 hours. personnel. Changing of the U.S. Capitol—At the east end, SUPREME COURT guards every half hour. Daily World’s largest library holds home of the U.S. Congress The nation’s highest tri- BOTH OF THEM, COME 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Self-guided more than 130 million since 1800 (Mon.-Sat. bunal. Justices convene tours free; bus tour $13.50, books, manuscripts, objects. 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.). See October through June in children (4-12) $6.75. Gutenberg Bible, re-creation Visitor Centers listings for public sessions. Lines form TO THINK OF IT. 214 McNair Road, Arlington, of Thomas Jefferson’s found- more info. 202.225.6827, to hear whole arguments Va., 877.907.8585 Metro: ing collection. “Echoes of Capitol: 202.224.3121 Metro: (seating starts at 9:30 a.m.) or Arlington Cemetery the Great War: American Capitol South three-minute portions Kennedy Gravesites— Experiences of World War Washington Monument— (seating starts at 10 a.m.). Plan your first (or next) visit today at John F. Kennedy’s burial site I,” documents, artifacts, World’s tallest freestanding Lines re-form after lunch. mountvernon.org/POTUS1 with eternal flame, beside photographs and more masonry structure, with ele- When court isn’t sitting, lec- grave of his wife, Jacqueline, delving into a conflict that vator (closed until 2019 for tures on the half hour from and near those of brothers forever changed the world; repairs) to museum, observa- 9:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Robert and Edward “Herblock Gallery, celebrating tion deck. 15th St. NW, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Free. Tomb of the Unknowns— the editorial cartoonist’s in- 202.426.6841 Metro: Cafeteria, gift shop. Plaza- Gravesites of one unidenti- fluential work, both ongoing. Smithsonian level entrance facilitates fied soldier from each World Mon.-Sat. 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Lincoln Memorial—Greek- security checks for entry. First War and the Korean War; Tours. Free.Jefferson Building, style temple with statue St. NE between Maryland Ave. Vietnam War soldier’s tomb 10 First St. SE, 202.707.8000; by Daniel Chester French. & E. Capitol St., 202.479.3030 empty since identification James Madison Memorial Visitors center daily 8 a.m.- Metro: Capitol South in 1998 Building, 101 Independence midnight. Gift shop. South of Iwo Jima Memorial—Bronze Ave. SE, 202.707.9779 Metro: Constitution Ave. NW at 23rd U.S. HOLOCAUST Marine Corps Memorial near Capitol South St., 202.426.6841 Metro: Foggy MEMORIAL MUSEUM the Carillon Bottom-GWU (1 mile) By architect James Ingo Women in Military Service MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. Korean War Veterans Freed, America’s only nation- for America Memorial— NATIONAL MEMORIAL Memorial—The Pool of al memorial to genocide. and Hall of Honor for nearly The newest memorial on Remembrance, steel soldiers, More than 900 artifacts, 70 two million women of the the National Mall, commem- granite relief. Independence video monitors, four theaters, U.S. armed forces orating the life and work Ave. & Daniel French Drive SW, contemporary art, room for Arlington House—Former of the civil rights leader. A 202.426.6841 Metro: Foggy reflection. Daily 10 a.m.- hilltop home of Confederate nearly 30-foot-high statue of Bottom-GWU (1 mile) 5:20 p.m. Gift shop, cafe, General Robert E. Lee King emerges from a granite World War II Memorial— library (Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.- block, the Stone of Hope, Neoclassical plaza dedicated 5 p.m.) Free. 100 Raoul FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT and inscription walls bear his to 400,000 American lives Wallenberg Place SW (14th MEMORIAL eloquent words. Accessible lost. 17th St. NW between St. main entry), 202.488.0400 A 7.5-acre landscaped park 24 hours. Northwest corner Constitution & Independence Metro: Smithsonian of waterfalls, tableaux pay- of Tidal Basin at the inter- aves., 202.426.6841 Metro: ing homage to the 32nd section of West Basin Drive Smithsonian (five blocks) THE WHITE HOUSE president. Bronze sculptures SW & Independence Ave. SW, Vietnam Veterans Presidential residence from (some by George Segal) 888.484.3373 Memorial—Maya Lin’s the time of John Adams. and bas-reliefs depict dramatic tribute inscribed Photo ops from north and Roosevelt, wife Eleanor, dog NATIONAL ARCHIVES with more than 58,000 south gates. Self-guided Fala, plus scenes from the The “Charters of Freedom”— names of dead or missing public tour requests must be Depression through WWII. Bill of Rights, U.S. Constitution, soldiers. Figurative sculp- submitted through a mem- Accessible 24 hours. West Declaration of Independence. tures honoring soldiers, ber of Congress at least 21 Potomac Park along Basin Theater with free films. David nurses. Directories of names. days ahead. Tours Tues.-Thurs. Drive SW, 202.426.6841 Metro: M. Rubenstein Gallery, Visitor Constitution Ave. NW between 7:30 a.m.-11:30 a.m., Fri.-Sat. Smithsonian (half a mile) Orientation Plaza. ”Records of 21st & 22nd sts., 202.426.6841 7:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. See Visitor Rights,” personal documents Metro: Foggy Bottom-GWU Centers listing for more info. of African-Americans, women (1 mile) 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW and immigrants plus the 1297

42 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Sights

Metro: McPherson Sq or 8 a.m., 10 a.m., 5 p.m. and FOLGER SHAKESPEARE GEORGE WASHINGTON “Operation Spy,” guests as- Farragut West Wed. 12:05 p.m. (Chapel of LIBRARY UNIVERSITY MUSEUM AND suming the role of an agent Bethlehem). Tours Mon.- World’s largest collection THE TEXTILE MUSEUM in an hour-long, adrenaline- POINTS OF INTEREST Sat. 9 a.m.-4 p.m., Sun. 2- of First Folios, multimedia Two museums housed fueled mission. Daily 10 a.m.- BASILICA OF THE NATIONAL 4:30 p.m. 118 N. Washington exhibit hall with film, active in connected structures. 6 p.m. $21.95, seniors/military/ SHRINE OF THE IMMACULATE St., 703.549.1450 Globe-like theater, concerts, In the Albert H. Small intelligence (with ID) $15.95, CONCEPTION Elizabethan garden. “Painting Washingtoniana Collection: children 7-11 $14.95, under 6 Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Shakespeare,” the Bard’s in- nearly 1,000 printed artifacts free. Spy store. 800 F St. NW, the largest Roman Catholic Founded in 1807, a bucolic fluence on visual works from documenting D.C.’s history 202.393.7798 Metro: Gallery Pl- basilica in North America and graveyard sheltering the little-known oils to famous from the 18th to 20th centu- Chinatown one of 10 largest churches in remains of John Philip Sousa, masterpieces, through ries. In the Textile Museum: the world blends Byzantine J. Edgar Hoover and Civil Feb. 11. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.- more than 19,000 cloth ob- KENILWORTH PARK AND and Romanesque architec- War photographer Mathew 5 p.m., Sun. noon-5 p.m. Free. jects dating from 3000 BCE to AQUATIC GARDENS ture. Largest collection of Brady. Today a popular spot Guided tours Mon.-Fri. the present. On the George On the north edge of contemporary ecclesiastical for dogwalkers. Map online 11 a.m., 1 p.m., 3 p.m.; Sat. Washington University cam- Anacostia Park, a 12-acre wet- art in the world. Undercroft or at cemetery gates. See 11 a.m., 1 p.m. Library for pus. Mon. and Wed.-Thurs. land with short hiking trails of more than 70 chapels and website for available walking scholars only. Gift shop. 201 11:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Sat. for seeing wildlife, Victoria oratories. Daily 7 a.m.-7 p.m. tours. Grounds open dawn- E. Capitol St. SE, 202.544.4600 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sun. 1-5 p.m. water lilies, lotus, wildflowers Tours: free audio or guided dusk. 1801 E St. SE, 202.543.0539 Metro: Capitol South 701 21st St. NW, 202.994.5200 and birds (great blue herons, Mon.-Sat. 9-11 a.m. and 1- Metro: Potomac Avenue or Metro: Foggy Bottom egrets). Daily 8 a.m.-4 p.m. 3 p.m., Sun. 1:30, 2:30 and Stadium Armory FRANCISCAN MONASTERY Bookstore till 3 p.m. Free. 3:30 p.m. Cafeteria, gift store, Founded in 1899 by GERMAN-AMERICAN 1550 Anacostia Ave. NE, book shop. 400 Michigan Franciscan friars, 42 acres HERITAGE MUSEUM 202.426.6905 Ave. NE, 202.526.8300 Metro: On the National Mall, parallel of woods and landscaped Dedicated to preserving Brookland-CUA to the Reflecting Pool, large gardens surrounding a turn- German-American culture. APPAREL DOCUMENTS POSTERS TOTES THE L. RON HUBBARD HOUSE pond, winding walkways and of-the century, Byzantine- In restored Hockemeyer Hall, ENJOY 20% OFF WITH CODE: WHEREMAG Free tours of the Founding CAPITAL CRESCENT TRAIL a wooden bridge leading to style church modeled after built by a German immigrant, Church of Scientology as One of the most popular trails the “memorial island” for the Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia. Also see permanent exhibition NationalArchivesStore.org it looked when the author, in the country, stretching 11 56 signers of the Declaration shrines of the Holy Land and “Immigration to America” plus aviator and humanitarian miles from D.C.’s Georgetown of Independence. Accessible Roman-style catacombs. rotating displays and speak- lived and worked here. Daily to Silver Spring, Maryland, 24 hours. Intersection of Guided tours hourly Mon.-Sat. ers. Tues.-Fri. 11 a.m.-6 p.m., 10 a.m.-6 p.m. 1812 19th St. NW, along a former segment of Constitution Ave. & 17th St. NW 10 a.m.-3 p.m. (except noon- Sat. noon-5 p.m. Free. 719 6th 202.234.7490 Metro: Dupont the B&O Railroad, and at- Metro: Smithsonian 1 p.m.), Sun. 1-3 p.m. Seasonal St. NW, 202.467.5000 Metro: Circle (South) tracting runners, walkers and garden tours. Free. Virtual tour Gallery Pl/Chinatown cyclists. Georgetown Terminus, DAR MUSEUM online. Gift shop. 1400 Quincy west end of Water St. NW, HQ of the National Society St. NE, 202.526.6800 GREAT FALLS PARK A formal 12-acre site designed 202.234.4874 of the Daughters of the Only 15 miles from D.C.’s in the Italianate style, con- American Revolution. More GADSBY’S TAVERN MUSEUM urban bustle, an 800-acre taining one of the largest C&O CANAL than 30 rooms in period/ Once host to founding fa- national park where the cascading fountains in North The Chesapeake and Ohio regional styles, important thers. Tours at quarter before Potomac River plunges America and the only me- Canal, a 19th-century com- genealogy library. Mon.-Fri. and quarter after the hour. some 76 feet through narrow morial to President James mercial waterway, now a na- 9:30 a.m.-4 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.- Wed.-Sat. 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Sun. Mather Gorge. Ranger-led Buchanan. Open daily during tional historical park. Towpath 5 p.m. Free. Tours Mon.-Fri. 1-4 p.m. $5, children $3. 134 N. talks and nature walks. Fifteen daylight hours. 2400 15th St. popular with joggers and 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.- Royal St., Old Town Alexandria, miles of trails, picnic areas and NW, 202.895.6070 bikers, especially the local 4:30 p.m. 1776 D St. NW, 703.838.4242 remnants of the 18th-century section linking Georgetown 202.628.1776 Potowmack Canal. Visitors NATIONAL BUILDING with the Potomac River’s GEORGE WASHINGTON center daily 10 a.m.-4 p.m., MUSEUM Great Falls. Visitors center at EASTERN MARKET MASONIC NATIONAL park daily 7 a.m.-dark. $3 per Former U.S. Pension Building Georgetown closed indefi- City’s oldest public market. MEMORIAL individual, $5 per car. 9200 Old (1887) showcases archi- nitely; the one at Great Falls Flea market each Sunday Towered temple at west Dominion Dr., McLean, Va., tecture, engineering, con- Tavern offers tours, boat rides (from handmade jewelry to end of King Street with a 703.285.2965 struction trades and design. and events. 1057 Thomas shabby chic furniture, and 17-foot bronze statue of “Architecture of an Asylum: Jefferson St. NW, 202.653.5190 vintage linens, postcards Washington (a Mason), muse- INTERNATIONAL SPY St. Elizabeths 1852-2017,” ex- and printing press letters). um with George Washington MUSEUM ploring this National Historic CHRIST CHURCH Produce, music, flowers, food. memorabilia and history Artifacts like WWII German Landmark in D.C., through One of the oldest in Northern South Hall: Tues.-Fri. 7 a.m.- of Freemasonry, rooms for Enigma cipher, East German Jan. 15. “Around the World Virginia (c. 1773), Georgian- 7 p.m., Sat. till 6 p.m., Sun. Masonic orders. Diagonal el- camera for seeing through in 80 Paper Models,” repre- style church where presidents 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday Flea: evators to observation deck. walls. Exhibits on spy rings senting buildings, cultures from George Washington to 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Farmers’ Guided tours. Daily 9 a.m.-5 of World War II, intel training. and countries from Austria to George W. Bush attended Line: Sat.-Sun. 7 a.m.-4 p.m. p.m. $15, under 13 free. Near “From Ballroom to Battlefield,” Wales, ongoing. “PLAY WORK service. A plaque marking Fresh Tuesdays, smaller pro- King St. Metro at 101 Callahan spy-tech tools. “Exquisitely BUILD,” a hands-on block play the spot where Robert E. Lee, duce-only market: 3-7 p.m. Dr., Alexandria, 703.683.2007 Evil: 50 Years of Bond Villains,” area with digital interaction along with his two daughters, 7th & C sts. SE, 703.534.7612 objects that trace crooks and allowing visitors to move an was confirmed. Services: Sun. secret lairs from the films. entire wall of virtual blocks,

44 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 45 Disco er the Cradle of the Sights Emancipation Proclamation Sights ongoing. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.- wars in the 19th century, plus include Alice Roosevelt 5 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. $8, temporary exhibits. Free tours Longworth (Teddy’s daugh- seniors/students/youth $5. year-round. Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.- ter), Upton Sinclair and D.C.’s Building tours daily at 5 p.m., Sat.-Sun. (and holidays) Gilded Age brewer Christian 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Free. 11th & O sts. Heurich. Daily 8 a.m.-6 p.m. 1:30 p.m. Cafe and gift shop. SE, 202.433.4882 Metro: Rock Creek Church Rd. & 401 F St. NW, 202.272.2448 Navy Yard Webster St. NW, 202.726.2080 Metro: Judiciary Square NEWSEUM NATIONAL FIREARMS A 250,000-square-foot venue One of the country’s earliest, MUSEUM lauding the First Amendment. urban national parks, a 2,000- At National Rifle Association Artifacts include sections of acre wooded oasis following HQ, 15 galleries span six cen- the Berlin Wall and historic 2017 TripAdvisor its namesake waterway turies with historic rifles, pis- front pages dating from the through the heart of the city. tols and displays on hunting. Civil War, plus 15 theaters, Certifi cate of Excellence Shady paved trails, tennis Free. Daily 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. 15 galleries and 130 interac- courts, a golf course, stables 11250 Waples Mill Road, Fairfax, tive stations. Pulitzer-Prize Open daily! Visit LincolnCottage.org or and a planetarium/nature Va., 703.267.1600 winners photo gallery, 9/11 call 202-829-0436 for hours, tickets prices, center (Wed.-Sun. 9 a.m.- memorial gallery and daily and tour availability. 5 p.m.) with ranger-led NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC displays of front pages from tours. Free (fees for some MUSEUM every U.S. state. New media activities). Nature Center and At the Society’s headquarters, gallery traces the digital news Planetarium, 5200 Glover Rd. gallery spaces plus Explorers revolution. NW, 202.895.6070 Hall with exhibits and lec- On screen: “JFK: A Thousand tures. “Sharks: On Assignment Days,” recounting the youth- STABLER-LEADBEATER with Brian Skerry,” videos, ful glamour the Kennedy APOTHECARY MUSEUM large-scale images, artifacts family brought to the White Upshur St at Rock Creek Church Rd NW Edward Stabler’s 1792 and models incorporating House and the newsworthy Washington, D.C. 20011 pharmacy, serving George the Society photographer’s moments of a presidency cut Washington, Robert E. Lee passion for understanding short. Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-5 p.m., and James Monroe. Closed in and protecting these majes- Sun. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $24.95, sen- 1933 and preserved as a mu- tic creatures, through Oct. 15. iors/military/students $19.95, seum. Original ingredients, Daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m. $15, sen- children (7-18) $14.95, 6 and drug mills, pill rollers, docu- iors/military/students $12, under free. Discounts availa- ments on display. Sun.-Mon. kids (5-12) $10, under 5 free. ble for families, advance tick- 1-5 p.m., Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.- Gift shop. 1145 17th St. NW, ets online. 555 Pennsylvania 5 p.m. (last tour at 4:45 p.m.). 202.857.7700 Metro: Farragut Ave. NW, 888.639.7386 Metro: 105-107 S. Fairfax St., Alex- North or Farragut West Archives/Navy Memorial andria, Va., 703.746.3852

NATIONAL INVENTORS HALL OAK HILL CEMETERY ST. MATTHEW’S CATHEDRAL OF FAME AND MUSEUM Landscaped burial ground The fourth parish established In the U.S. Patent and in Georgetown for D.C. ® in D.C. John F. Kennedy’s Trademark Office, exhibits elite since 1849. Graves of funeral service held here capturing America’s imag- descendants of Martha where today. on Nov. 25, 1963, and a floor inative spirit. Patent and Washington and the 1850 plaque marks where the cas- trademark history, interactive Gothic chapel designed by ket was placed during the ser- gallery displaying 500-plus in- Smithsonian Castle architect Introducing the new vice. Guided tours and self-led ventors and their stories, plus James Renwick for W.W. city guide website from Where Magazine. tours available. See website a 1965 Ford Mustang merged Corcoran. Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.- for worship services. Sun.-Fri. wheretraveler.com with a 2015 model showing 4:30 p.m., Sun. 1-4 p.m. 3001 R 6:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Sat. how inventions drive technol- St. NW, 202.337.2835 All the buzz. All the time. 7:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. 1725 Rhode ogy. Gift shop. Mon.-Fri. Island Ave. NW, 202.347.3215 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.- ROCK CREEK CEMETERY Metro: Farragut North 3 p.m. Free. 600 Dulany St., Established in the early 18th Alexandria, Va., 571.272.0095 century, the oldest cemetery U.S. BOTANIC GARDEN in Washington surrounds West of the Capitol, North NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE the 1775 St. Paul’s Episcopal America’s oldest with Art UNITED STATES NAVY Church. Notable for grave Deco-era glass conservatory, Inside a former naval gun sculptures such as the jungle area, orchid house. factory at the historic shrouded figure (nicknamed ‘You Can Grow It!,” learning Washington Navy Yard, dis- “Grief”) by Augustus Saint- about gardening through playing permanent exhibits Gardens, commissioned by displays and flora at the con- on the World Wars, Navy writer Henry Adams for his servatory, through Oct. 15. submarines and “forgotten” wife’s tomb. Others here Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Free.

46 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 47 Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Sights

100 Maryland Ave. SW, damage fund. 3101 Wisconsin children $7.50. Pulseworks First Ladies,” gowns, memora- Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. VISITOR CENTERS 202.225.8333 Metro: Federal Ave. NW, 202.537.6200 VR Transporter: $12. Gift bilia from presidencies past, Workshops, gift shop, post ALEXANDRIA Center SW shop, food court. 6th St. all ongoing. Daily 10 a.m.- office. 2 Massachusetts Ave. VISITORS CENTER SMITHSONIAN & Independence Ave. SW, 5:30 p.m. Gift shops, ice NE, 202.633.1000 Metro: Union In the reconstructed home of U.S. NATIONAL ARBORETUM INSTITUTION 202.633.2214 Metro: cream parlor, cafeteria. 14th Station city founder William Ramsay, A 446-acre site with specialty AFRICAN AMERICAN L’Enfant Plaza St. & Constitution, 202.633.1000 brochures, tickets, maps, gardens, the former U.S. HISTORY AND CULTURE Metro: Smithsonian NATIONAL ZOO gifts. Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Capitol , the Arbor MUSEUM AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM Founded in 1889, a 163-acre 221 King St., Alexandria, House Gift Shop and the Newest Smithsonian site, a UDVAR-HAZY CENTER AMERICAN INDIAN MUSEUM zoo with more than 2,000 703.746.3301 Metro: King St. National Bonsai & Penjing LEED edifice of glass wrapped Hangar-like facility near Curvilinear building of gold- animals like giant pandas Tian Museum. (Fri.-Mon. 10 a.m.- in bronze-toned metal panels Dulles International Airport en-hued limestone faces the Tian and Mei Xiang and their D.C. TOURIST 4 p.m.). Visitor Center evoking a Yoruban crown and displaying 160-plus aircraft. rising sun, in keeping with cub Bei Bei. Elephant Trails INFORMATION CENTER Fri.-Mon. 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. ironwork crafted in U.S. by “in- The Enola Gay (first to drop an Native American traditions. exhibit with wooded exer- Tour advice, brochures, city Grounds daily 8 a.m.-5 p.m. visible” slaves. Artifacts trac- atomic bomb), F-4 Phantom, Tribal exhibitions. “Patriot cise trek. Asia Trail with giant guides, maps. Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.- Free. Visit by car recommend- ing the African-American ex- space shuttle Discovery Nations: Native Americans in sloths, clouded leopards. 5 p.m. Closed weekends. 506 ed. 3501 New York Ave. NE, perience (slave cabin, Emmett and Sky Baby, at one time, Our Nation’s Armed Forces,” American Trail with sea otters, 9th St. NW at E St., 202.347.7201 202.245.2726 Till’s casket, Chuck Berry’s the world’s smallest aircraft. highlighting contributions seals. Solar-powered carousel Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown red Cadillac). Oprah Winfrey Ongoing: ”Transformers: of American Indians from the ($3). Exhibit buildings daily U.S. NAVY MEMORIAL Theater, Contemplative Court. More Than Meets the Eye!,” Revolutionary War to today’s 9 a.m.-6 p.m., grounds 8 a.m.- U.S. CAPITOL Plaza with sailor statue hon- “More Than a Picture,” 150 iconic toys and props from conflicts, ongoing. Daily 7 p.m., visitor center 9 a.m.- VISITOR CENTER oring those who died in ser- photos highlighting the the Paramount/Dreamworks 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Gift shops, 6 p.m., shops/dining 9 a.m.- Entryway to the U.S. Capitol vice leads to Naval Heritage Civil Rights Movement, Civil film “Transformers: Revenge two theaters, cafe. 4th St. 5 p.m. Last admittance 6 p.m. with exhibits, artifacts, in- Center with exhibits and War and African-American of the Fallen.” & Independence Ave. SW, Free entry, parking $22. teractive kiosks. No passes theater (daily screenings). women and children, ongo- Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. IMAX 202.633.1000 Metro: 3001 Connecticut Ave. NW, required to enter the center. “Navy EOD: The World’s Most ing. Cafe, gift shop. Timed- theater with documentaries L’Enfant Plaza 202.673.4888 Metro: Cleveland Mon.-Sat. 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Capable Bomb Squad-Air, entry passes required. Same- and select popular films, Park (downhill to zoo) or Guided one-hour Capitol Land and Sea,” an authentic day passes available online at flight simulations. IMAX tick- THE CASTLE Woodley Park-Zoo (uphill) tours Mon.-Sat. 8:50 a.m.- bomb disposal suit, a robot, 6:30 a.m. daily and from Visitor ets: $9, seniors $8, children The first Smithsonian 3:20 p.m. Free. Admission to history of IED weapons. Services at 1 p.m. weekdays (2-12) $7.50. Theater info: building, with info center, NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM House or Senate galleries Center Mon.-Sat. 9:30 a.m.- (Madison Drive entrance). 866.868.7774. Parking ($15) James Smithson’s crypt, Exhibits track the natural issued by a constituent’s rep- 5 p.m. Memorial accessible 24 Advance passes released or frequent shuttle between samples from the collection. world since prehistoric time resentative or senator. Some hours. Free. 701 Pennsylvania online monthly, three Dulles Airport and museum. Ongoing: “Welcome to Your (anthropology to zoology). same-day passes at CVC infor- Ave. NW, 202.737.2300 Metro: months out. Daily 10 a.m.- 14390 Air and Space Museum Smithsonian,” an overview In , taxidermic mation desks. Below the East Archives-Navy Memorial 5:30 p.m. 1400 Constitution Parkway, Chantilly, Va., of the institution’s history, Senate African elephant Henry stars Plaza of the Capitol between Ave. NW, 844.750.3012 Metro: 202.633.1000 research, role in American Transportation in a replica Angolan habitat. Constitution & Independence Smithsonian culture; “The Earliest Known Hall of Geology, Gems and aves., 202.226.8000 Metro: At the south end of AMERICAN HISTORY Photograph of the Castle,” Services Minerals for Hope Diamond. Capitol South Georgetown, a bustling AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM MUSEUM from 1850; “Views from the Serving DC, VA & MD Butterfly Pavilion ($6, $5.50 waterfront zone with a World’s largest collection of National repository of Tall Tower,” how Washington’s seniors, $5 children; Tues. free, WHITE HOUSE boardwalk, restaurants, aircraft and space vehicles cultural, scientific and tech- skyline has changed since 1.888.556.5331 timed-entry tickets required). VISITOR CENTER “Making your travel arrangements D.C.’s largest outdoor ice (Lindbergh’s Spirit of St. Louis, nological heritage with 1863. Cafe. Daily 8:30 a.m.- “Q?rius,” 10,000-square-foot Reopened after a $12.5 a lot simpler.” skating rink in winter, splash Bell X-1, 1903 Wright Flyer). new renovated West Wing. 5:30 p.m., Haupt Garden learning center for teens. million renovation with fountain in summer and Renovated Boeing Milestones Thomas Jefferson’s desk, (south side) daily 6:30 a.m.- “Narwhal: Revealing an free interactive exhibits, views of Key Bridge and the of Flight Hall with Apollo Woolworth lunch counter dusk. 1000 Jefferson Drive SW, Arctic Legend,” the latest videos of the residence Kennedy Center. 3050 K St. NW, Lunar Module and Enterprise where the “Greensboro Four” 202.633.1000 Metro: scientific knowledge about and its occupants. Free. Gift 202.295.5007 Federation studio model from began the 1960 protest, a Smithsonian www.senatetransportationservices.com these unusual animals and shop. Daily 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m. “Star Trek” television series. piece of Plymouth Rock. The how they’re connected to (closed Thanksgiving). 1450 WASHINGTON NATIONAL Interactive kiosks. “Artist Star-Spangled Banner gallery NATIONAL POSTAL MUSEUM people and ecosystems Pennsylvania Ave. NW at 15th CATHEDRAL Soldiers: Artistic Expression in holds the restored flag. Former main post office, through 2019. “The REX St. NW, 202.208.1631 Metro: World’s sixth largest cathe- the First World War,” examin- “The Nation We Build now museum of postal ar- Room,” where conserva- Federal Triangle dral, Gothic-style “Church for ing the transformation to re- Together,” revisiting the tifacts, stamps, multimedia tionists work out of sight on National Purposes.” Woodrow alistic depictions by first-hand museum’s holdings to ask stations, exhibits. Ongoing: “Nation’s T. Rex,” the real spec- Wilson’s grave, concerts. participants through Nov. 11. the question: “What kind of “My Fellow Soldiers: Letters imen to star in a renovated Parking beneath, free on Sun. At Lockheed Martin IMAX nation do we want to be?”; From World War I,” poignant National Fossil Hall, opening Themed guided tours daily Theater and Albert Einstein “Righting a Wrong: Japanese correspondence from troops 2019. Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. (prices vary, check website). Planetarium, aviation and Americans and World War on the frontline; “PostSecret: IMAX theater ($8, seniors/ Gardens till dusk. $12, 17 and space-related shows daily II,” historic images, objects The Power of a Postcard,” se- children $6.50). Cafe and gift under $8, 5 and under free from 10:30 a.m. New Pulse- and documents (including crets confessed in more than shop. Constitution Ave. at 10th (no admission charge for Sun. works VR Transporter virtual the original Executive Order 500 artfully designed cards St. NW, 202.633.1000 Metro: tours). Gift shops, cafe. Mon.- reality adventure ride with 9066) marking the 75th an- from around the world; “1856 Federal Triangle or Smithsonian Fri. 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m., Sat. till motion effects. Daily 10 a.m.- niversary of the presidential British Guiana One-Cent 4:30 p.m., Sun. (for services) 5:30 p.m. Tours 10:30 a.m. decree that sent 75,000 Magenta,” the world’s rarest 8 a.m.-5 p.m. See website to and 1 p.m. IMAX and plane- Americans of Japanese de- stamp, now owned by shoe contribute to earthquake tarium shows: $9, seniors $8, scent to prison camps; “The designer Stuart Weitzman.

48 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 49 Explore SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Explore

Alexandria Colonial Tours boutiques and the historic BOATING IN DC DC METRO FOOD TOURS 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, If ghosts do exist, no doubt they prowl the nar- Howard Theatre. Sailing, kayak, canoe and pad- Three-and-a-half-hour 301.251.7064 Metro: Farragut dleboard rentals/lessons on food-focused tours of neigh- West or McPherson Sq row brick and cobblestone lanes of Old Town TYSONS CORNER, VA. the Potomac and Anacostia borhoods in D.C. (Adams A business and retail hub with rivers. Also Tidal Basin paddle Morgan, Capitol Hill, Dupont SENATE TRANSPORTATION Alexandria, Virginia. On these tours, brave two malls—Tysons Corner boat rentals. See website Circle, Eastern Market, SERVICES souls follow a costumed guide by lantern and Center (the largest in the area) for all locations. Key Bridge Georgetown, U Street) and With a fleet of vehicles rang- and Tysons Galleria—plus, Boathouse, 3500 Water St. NW; Old Town Alexandria. Sat.- ing from sedans and limos to moonlight to rustle up spirits like the (Travel across Route 7, . Ballpark Boathouse, Potomac Sun. $30-$65. 800.979.3370 vans and buses, shuttling pas- Channel-featured) “burning bride,” who met Now accessible by Metrorail. Ave. & First St. SE Metro: Navy sengers to and from airports, Yard; National Harbor, Oxon DETOUR business meetings, weddings her demise after the long train of her dress U ST./LOGAN CIRCLE/14TH ST. Hill, Md. 202.337.9642 GPS-guided smartphone and other events. Also private caught fire on her wedding day in 1868. The Bars, shops and cafes along walking tours featuring sightseeing tours. Operates U Street NW between 9th and CAPITAL BIKESHARE subjects that go beyond the 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. final stop of the one-hour tour? Naturally, a 17th. Theaters, hip eateries Wheels for rent at 400-plus obvious: spies, go-go music, 888.556.5331 and galleries on 14th Street stations in D.C., Maryland Theodore Roosevelt Island graveyard. $13. Departs from Visitors Center, 221 King NW between N and Florida. and Virginia. Single trip $2. and Lincoln’s assassination. SUPERSHUTTLE St., Alexandria, Va., 703.519.1749, alexcolonialtours.com Memberships for as short as 30-90 minutes, $5/per tour. Since 1983, affordable, 24/7 WATERFRONT 24 hours ($8). First 30 minutes Download from the Detour transport to and from air- On Southeast Waterfront, the free, then ride time fees app (iPhone and android). ports. Group rates, charters Navy museum, Yards Park and apply. 24/7, 365 days a year. and frequent flier points and CRUISES schedule and dock locations stages and movie theaters. In coexist with high-end shops, the MLB Nationals Park; on 877.430.2453 FORD’S THEATRE “HISTORY miles with select airlines. BOOMERANG BOAT TOURS online. 877.511.2628 north Bethesda, the National restaurants and bars. Southwest Waterfront, dinner ON FOOT” WALKING TOURS Ronald Reagan National A 70-foot, double-decker Institutes of Health and the cruises, Arena Stage and new CARPE DC FOOD TOURS A two-hour, 1.6-mile walk with Airport, Alexandria, Va.; Dulles party yacht that departs from URBAN PIRATES Music Center at Strathmore. GOLDEN TRIANGLE retail-dining-entertainment Walking tours featuring res- “Detective McDevitt,” as he International Airport, Dulles, the Georgetown waterfront Aboard the Relentless, “pirate” Zone stretching north- complex The Wharf. taurants in the U Street, 14th revisits sites and reexamines Va., 800.258.3826 for cruises with a full bar, DJ crews leading 90-minute CAPITOL HILL south from Dupont Circle to Street, Shaw and Georgetown clues from the investigation and dance floor ($25-$36), kid-friendly adventures on Marble Congressional offices and WOODLEY PARK neighborhoods, plus cultural into Lincoln’s 1865 assassi- WASHINGTON PHOTO SAFARI plus a pirate ship for family the Potomac River. Pirate talk, and 19th-century residences. east-west from 16th to 21st Cafes, restaurants, shops, the and historic points of interest. nation. Reserve online. $17. Photographer E. David Luria and adult cruises ($20-$30). treasure hunts and water can- At Eastern Market, crafts and streets hosting office work- Smithsonian’s National Zoo Also, happy hour and private 511 10th St. NW, 202.347.4833 and his team leading instruc- Private charters also available. nons. Also adult BYOG (grog) food. North of the Capitol, ers by day and restaurant/ and the -era Uptown tours. $36-$89. Check sched- Metro: Metro Center tional tours of photogenic 1072 31st St. NW, 202.557.9896 cruises. $22-$25. Capital Wheel historic Union Station with club-goers by night. Theater along Connecticut ule online. 540.923.2774 sights, from the monuments , National Harbor, Md., a busy Amtrak depot, shops Avenue from Calvert Street to KING STREET TROLLEY and memorials to neighbor- DANDY RESTAURANT 301.300.0895 and restaurants . H STREET NE Cleveland Park. CITY SIGHTS DC In Old Town Alexandria, hoods and nature. Half-day CRUISES Between 3rd and 14th streets Along three routes, hop-on, free hybrid trolleys running and full-day options. From For more than 30 years, a NEIGHBORHOODS CHEVY CHASE NE, an emerging zone of TOURS & TRANSPORT hop-off tours (day and night) every 15 minutes between $79. 202.537.0937 company offering cruises be- ADAMS MORGAN A swanky retail district strad- restaurants, music clubs and BIG BUS TOURS on double-decker buses with the Metro and Union Street, tween Old Town Alexandria Restaurants, funky shops dling the D.C.-Maryland bor- bars, plus the Art Deco-style Capital views from the en- open tops. Narration offered stopping every two blocks. WASHINGTON WALKS and Georgetown with views and bars in this international der at Wisconsin and Western Atlas Performing Arts Center, closed first level or open in 11 languages. $39-$94, Sun.-Wed. 10 a.m.-10:15 p.m., Two-hour tours through areas of iconic sights, three-course area known for adventurous avenues. Restaurants, a accessible via streetcar. upper deck on four routes of children $29-$80 (discounts Thurs.-Sat. till midnight. well-known (National Mall, meals and dancing. $50-$108. nightlife and global cuisine. cinema and shops like this hop-on, hop-off narrated online). 202.650.5444 Metro: King Street Georgetown, Dupont Circle, Private charters also available. Main drags: 18th Street and Bloomingdale’s, Cartier. NATIONAL HARBOR, MD. tour. Some tickets include ad- Embassy Row, Capitol Hill) The Strand, Zero Prince St., Columbia Road NW. On the Potomac River, a 300- mission to Madame Tussauds DC BY FOOT OLD TOWN TROLLEY TOURS and not (Kenilworth Aquatic Alexandria, Va., 703.683.6076 DUPONT CIRCLE acre “new town” with luxe wax museum. From $39, Name-your-price walking Hop-on, hop-off narrated Gardens, Kalorama, Rock ALEXANDRIA, VA. Galleries, restaurants, shops lodging, an MGM casino, eat- children from $29 (discounts tours of the National Mall, tours passing 100-plus sites Creek Cemetery). $20, under 4 ENTERTAINMENT CRUISES Historic Old Town flanking and nightlife around a central eries, shops and festivals, plus online). 877.332.8689 Tidal Basin, Capitol Hill, on two loops (National free. 202.484.1565 Narrated excursions to the Potomac River, with re- fountain by Daniel Chester The Capital Wheel with views Arlington National Cemetery Mall-downtown, Arlington George Washington’s Mount stored 18th- and 19th-century French, plus The Phillips from 180 feet up. BIKE AND ROLL and several neighborhoods. National Cemetery) with 14 WASHINGTON Vernon estate, plus dining row houses holding muse- Collection art gallery and Guided tours by bike and Also food tours. Ghosts of stops. $78, children $58, under METROPOLITAN AREA and entertainment on ele- ums, galleries, boutiques, bars Gilded Age mansions. PENN QUARTER/CHINATOWN Segway, plus bike rentals. Georgetown exploring the 4 free (discounts online). TRANSIT AUTHORITY gant vessels with panoramic and restaurants. North of Pennsylvania National Mall, 955 L’Enfant dark past of D.C.’s oldest zone Also two-day passes and Metrorail and Metrobus views. Private charters also FOGGY BOTTOM Avenue, with restaurants, Plaza SW, 202.842.2453 Metro: ($20). 202.370.1830 Monuments by Moonlight services covering most of available. Gangplank Marina, ARLINGTON, VA. East of Georgetown, home retail, Shakespeare Theatre L’Enfant Plaza; Union Station, tour. 844.356.2603 the D.C. area. Helpful “Trip 600 Water St. SW, 866.834.7245 West of the Potomac, the to the State Department, Company, Smithsonian art 50 Massachusetts Ave. NE, DC CIRCULATOR Planner” feature on website, Metro: Waterfront county encompassing George Washington museums, Verizon Center and 202.962.0206 Metro: Union Daily bus system running six PICKLE PEA WALKS plus smartphone app with re- Arlington National Cemetery, University and the John Chinatown’s ornate arch at Station; Old Town Alexandria, routes including east-west Three 70-minute walking al-time arrivals. Metrorail fares POTOMAC RIVERBOAT plus bustling neighborhoods F. Kennedy Center for the 7th and H streets NW. 1 Wales Alley, Alexandria, Va., between Union Station and tours focused on the White $1.75 to $5.90; rechargeable COMPANY Rosslyn, Clarendon, Ballston, Performing Arts. 202.842.2453; Smithsonian, Georgetown and north-south House, in which costumed SmarTrip card $2. Mon.-Thurs. Water taxi service between Shirlington, Crystal City and SHAW 14th St. & Madison Drive between Woodley Park and actors portray historical fig- 5 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Fri. 5 a.m.- Alexandria, National Harbor Pentagon City. GEORGETOWN Along 7th and 9th streets NW, 202.842.2453 Metro: McPherson Square, plus a ures like Quentin Roosevelt, 1 a.m., Sat. 7 a.m.-1 a.m., Sun. and Georgetown, plus sea- Centered at M Street and NW between Mount Vernon Smithsonian National Mall loop (see Map 1). youngest son of Theodore 8 a.m.-11 p.m. See map on sonal sightseeing and canine BETHESDA, MD. Wisconsin Avenue NW, D.C.’s Square and Florida Avenue, a Buses arrive every 10 minutes. (no entry to White House). page 61. 202.637.7000 cruises. Private charters. See A Metro-accessible zone oldest neighborhood, where hot spot with top restaurants $1, children under 5 free. Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m., 11 a.m., 5 p.m.

with offices, shops, cafes, elegant brick row houses and cocktail bars, trendy ALEXANDRIA VISIT FOR SUMMERER ©K. 202.962.1423 $23, children $15, under 6 free.

50 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 51 Art SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Art

The Phillips Collection through Jan. 4 (this exhibi- SMITHSONIAN FREER GALLERY of age as a writer in the 1950s, Art lovers flock here for the intimate setting tion closed on weekends). INSTITUTION Re-opening Oct. 14, with a through May 20. “Lincoln’s Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sun. AFRICAN ART MUSEUM weekend celebration and Contemporaries,” Mathew and renowned works. The most famous— 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Free. Gift shop Sub-Saharan African art: newly reimagined spaces for Brady’s likenesses of John and cafes. Constitution Ave. masks, textiles, regalia, fur- displaying East and South it’s even inspired a few marriage proposals— Wilkes Booth’s brother Edwin, NW between 3rd & 4th sts., niture, ceramics. “Senses of Asian and Islamic art in an Nathaniel Hawthorne and is Renoir’s luminous “Luncheon of the Boating 202.737.4215 Metro: Archives- Time: Video and Film-based Italian-style villa. James others from the 1800s, on- Navy Memorial Works of Africa,” seven mov- McNeill Whistler’s Peacock going. Daily 11:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Party” (1880-81). Opening October 7, the exhi- ing images illustrating how Room restored to its original Free. Gift shop, cafe, light-filled bition “Renoir and Friends” reveals the work’s NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART/ the body experiences the 1908 appearance. Daily Kogod Courtyard. 8th & F sts. WEST BUILDING passage of time, through 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Highlights NW, 202.633.1000 Metro: Gallery backstory, including the creative process and One of the world’s finest Jan. 21. “Invocations,” Nairobi- tours at noon. Free. Films, gift Pl-Chinatown the identities of the real-life models, journalists, collections of American based Jim Chuchu’s compel- shop. Jefferson Drive and 12th and European paintings ling two-part video exploring St. SW, 202.633.1000 Metro: RENWICK GALLERY collectors and critics depicted in the scene. and sculpture dating from his struggle with identity; Smithsonian Revamped Second Empire- the 13th century, including “Healing Arts,” works de- style museum across from $12, students/seniors $10, 18 and under free. “Ginevra de’ Benci,” this hem- signed to counter the effects HIRSHHORN MUSEUM AND White House designed by 21st & Q sts. NW, 202.387.2151, phillipscollection.org isphere’s only da Vinci paint- of physical, social and spiritual SCULPTURE GARDEN James Renwick Jr. in 1859. ing. Marc Chagall’s “Orphée” problems, both ongoing. Designed by Gordon American fine crafts, plus mosaic in the sculpture Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Free. Bunshaft, doughnut-shaped modern works. “Parallax garden. “Edvard Munch: Color Gift shop. 950 Independence building holds Joseph H. Gap,” an immersive installa- ALTERNATIVE SPACES opened in 2006 on the Manalo, Newton, Puryear, TRANSFORMER in Context,” considering the Ave. SW, 202.633.1000 Metro: Hirshhorn’s gift collection tion transforming the Bettie ANACOSTIA ARTS CENTER Georgetown waterfront, Treado, Von Eichel. Framing. Warhol grantee project site hues in 21 prints with regard Smithsonian plus later acquisitions. Works Rubenstein Grand Salon into Nonprofit with a cafe, theater, home of the Embassy of Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m.-5:30 p.m. for collaborating artists, to spiritualist principles of the by Dubuffet, Picasso, Rothko, a visual puzzle, through boutiques, several art galler- Sweden and trade represent- 1670 Wisconsin Ave. NW at scientists, poets, musicians, 19th century, through Jan. 28. AMERICAN ART MUSEUM Calder, Warhol and current Feb. 11. Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. ies. Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.-7 p.m., atives. “Stories of Migration: Reservoir Road, 202.338.5180 storytellers. Wed.-Sat. noon- “Posing for the Camera: Gifts National collections from stars. “Ai Weiwei: Trace at Free. Gift shop. 17th St. Sun. 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Some Sweden Beyond the 6 p.m. p.m. 1404 P St. NW, from Robert B. Menschel,” 60 folk art to LED installations Hirshhorn,” the provocative & Pennsylvania Ave. NW, events free. 1231 Good Hope Headlines,” examining the mi- ARTIST’S PROOF 202.483.1102 photographs from the collec- and one gallery dedicated Chinese artist’s 176 LEGO por- 202.633.1000 Metro: Road SE, 202.321.2878 grant experience from a per- International (Brussels to tion, spanning 1840s to 1990s, to video and time-based traits of activists, through Farragut West sonal perspective, past and Beijing) inventory of contem- MUSEUMS through Jan. 28. Mon.-Sat. artwork. “Lumia: Thomas Jan. 1. “Ilya and Emilia ARLINGTON ARTS CENTER present, through December. porary art in Georgetown. KATZEN ARTS CENTER 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.- Wilfred and the Art of Light,” Kabakov: Utopian Projects,” ARTHUR M. SACKLER For more than 40 years, a Mon.-Fri. 8:20 a.m.-5 p.m. Free. Photos by Fred Maroon and Dramatic building with muse- 6 p.m. Free. Gift shop, cafés, displaying 15 of the innova- 20-plus maquettes and GALLERY venue addressing issues pro- 2900 K St. NW, 202.536.1500 acrylic and Chinese ink works um and performance spaces sculpture garden. Closed tor’s avant-garde sculptures models for whimsical installa- Re-opening Oct. 14, with moting social change. Open Metro: Foggy Bottom by Belgian artist Jean-Francois of American University. Three Dec. 25. Constitution Ave. that project moving images, tion-based works responding a weekend celebration studios and solo exhibitions. Debongnie, among others. floors of changing exhibi- NW between 4th & 7th sts., Oct. 6-Jan. 7. “Murder Is Her to hardships endured in and newly installed col- Wed.-Sun. noon-5 p.m. Free. KOREAN CULTURAL CENTER Acquisition talks Thurs. p.m., tions by Washington and 202.737.4215 Metro: Archives- Hobby: Frances Glessner Lee the Soviet Union, through lections. In a dramatic un- 3550 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, Organization for the study meet-the-artists Sat. aft. Mon.- international artists. Tues.- Navy Memorial and The Nutshell Studies March 4. derground building, Asian Va., 703.248.6800 Metro: of Korean culture with film Sat. 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. noon- Sun. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Free. Gift of Unexplained Death,” Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. and Near Eastern artworks Virginia Sq-GMU screenings, art exhibitions, 5 p.m. 1533 Wisconsin Ave. NW, shop and cafe. Ward Circle, NATIONAL MUSEUM OF dollhouse-sized dioramas of Sculpture Garden (7:30 a.m.- spanning 6,000 years. musical performances. 202.803.2782 4400 Massachusetts Ave. NW, WOMEN IN THE ARTS crime scenes used in forensic dusk). Tours weekdays at “Turquoise Mountain: Artists ARTS CLUB OF WASHINGTON Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m. 202.885.1300 Pioneering museum dedi- science Oct. 20-Jan. 28. 10:30 a.m. and noon, Sat.-Sun. Transforming Afghanistan,” a Exhibitions in Georgian-style Most events free. 2370 HEMPHILL FINE ARTS cated to female artists with Daily 11:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Gift at noon and 2 p.m. Free. 7th replica of Kabul’s Murad Khani townhouse once occupied Massachusetts Ave. NW, Celebrating 20+ years NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART/ 4,500-plus works by, among shop. Kogod Courtyard with St. & Independence Ave. SW, arts district, with craftsmen by President James Monroe. 202.939.5688 Metro: Dupont showing contemporary and EAST BUILDING others, Mary Cassatt, Frida canopy designed by Norman 202.633.1000 Metro: L’Enfant selling their wares, through Artist talks, musical perfor- Circle (North, about six blocks) historically significant artists I.M. Pei-designed museum Kahlo and Alma Thomas. Foster, free Wi-Fi and a cafe Plaza or Smithsonian Oct. 29. “Divine Felines: Cats mances. Tues.-Fri. 10 a.m.- like Caldwell, Christenberry, holds modern and con- “Equilibrium: Fanny Sanin,” until 6:30 p.m. Free. 8th & F of Ancient Egypt,” 70 objects 5 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Free. TORPEDO FACTORY Dreyfuss, Rose, Willis and late temporary American and exploring the methodical sts. NW, 202.633.1000 Metro: NATIONAL PORTRAIT revealing the animal’s critical 2017 I (Eye) St. NW, 202.331.7282 ART CENTER “father figures” Jacob Kainen, European paintings, sculp- working process of the Gallery Pl-Chinatown GALLERY role in religious, social and Metro: Foggy Bottom WWII munitions plant, now Willem de Looper and Leon tures, prints by Matisse, Stella, Colombian-born artist known Famed visages throughout political life Oct. 14-Jan. 15. three floors of 82 artist stu- Berkowitz. Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.- Warhol, Pollock, Picasso. for colorful geometric ab- ANACOSTIA COMMUNITY U.S. history. Only complete “Encountering the Buddha: D.C.A.C. dios, archaeology museum, 5 p.m. 1515 14th St. NW, Newly renovated with more stract paintings, through MUSEUM collection of presidential Art and Practice Across Asia,” Adams Morgan space for and galleries. Free. Most 202.234.5601 public space, skylit tower Oct. 29. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.- Devoted to activism, portraits outside the White shrines, stupas and stories guest-curated shows of open daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m., galleries highlighting works 5 p.m., Sun. noon-5 p.m. $10, urban communities and House. “The Face of Battle: inviting visitors to reconsider contemporary art. Live Sun. noon-6 p.m. Artist-led LONG VIEW GALLERY by Alexander Calder, Mark students/seniors $8, 18 and African-American heritage. Americans at War, 9/11 to Buddhist practices and con- acoustic music ($5) some tours 1 p.m. 105 N. Union St., Expansive, track-lit quarters Rothko. Roof terrace with under free. Free admission “Gateways/Portales,” works Now,” photos exploring the cepts of beauty Oct. 14- days, experimental theater Alexandria, Va., 703.838.4565 just west of the Convention sculptures, views of the on “Community Days,” the in various mediums tracing human cost of conflicts, Oct. 2020. (call for performances and Center for shows by emerg- Capitol. Villareal LED passage first Sunday of each month. the experiences of Latino mi- through Jan. 28. “Marlene Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. prices). Wed.-Sun. 2-7 p.m, GALLERIES ing artists. Also gallery in to West Building. Mezzanine Cafe with soups, grants and immigrants in four Dietrich: Dressed for the Highlights tours daily (except 2438 18th St. NW, second floor, ADDISON/RIPLEY FINE ART Sperryville, Va. Wed.-Sat. “In the Library: Jost Amman salads, sandwiches. Mon.-Fri. cities, including Washington, Image,” showing how the star Wed.) at noon. Free. Gift shop. 202.462.7833 On a north Georgetown cor- 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun. noon- and Sixteenth-Century 11 a.m.-2 p.m. New York Ave. D.C. and Baltimore, Maryland, brought androgyny to the sil- 1050 Independence Ave. SW, ner, works by, among others, 5 p.m. 1302 9th St. NW, Woodcut Illustration,” show- & 13th St. NW, 202.783.5000 ongoing. Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. ver screen, through April 15. 202.633.1000 Metro: HOUSE OF SWEDEN Carroll, Close, Day, Dunlap, 202.232.4788 casing the artist’s combi- Metro: Metro Center Free. 1901 Fort Place SE, “One Life: Sylvia Plath,” re- Smithsonian The crown jewel of the Fairey, Fonseca, Goldberg, nation of precise simplicity 202.633.4820 vealing how she shaped her

Swedish U.S. presence Kahn, Kepple, Kuhnle, Lin, and fanciful imagination, DC WASHINGTON, COLLECTION, PHILLIPS THE COURTESY identity visually as she came

52 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 53 Scene Scene

Columbia Room 202.265.1600 Metro: Dupont and Vietnamese. 604 H St. NW, We suspected as much, but now we know: Circle 202.347.4656 Metro: Gallery Pl- Chinatown this cocktail bar is the best in America, says the ROUND ROBIN BAR In the Willard Hotel, upscale BREW PUBS 2017 Spirited Awards. What makes it so good? bar serves venerable drinks BLUEJACKET Owner Derek Brown and head bartender JP and 130 scotches. Henry Clay In a 1919 U.S. Navy factory, introduced the mint julep a buzzing brewery headed Fetherston have created an innovative ode to to D.C. here 200 years ago. by Greg Engert. Traditional mixology with three spaces in one: the Punch Also find the Belmont gin techniques combined with fizz and Pimlico black-eyed experimentation produce a Garden, the Spirits Library (think rare vintages Susan. Mon.-Sat. noon-1 rotating selection of 20 beers like an 1811 Napoleon cognac) and the ulti- a.m., Sun. noon-midnight. and five cask ales. On-site 1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, bar, tasting room, shop and mate experience, the Tasting Room, with 202.628.9100 Metro: Metro Arsenal restaurant. Sun.-Thurs. Center 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 seasonal menus of three or five courses. a.m. Free tours Sat. 11 a.m., 124 Blagden Alley NW, 202.316.9396, columbiaroomdc.com SHELLY’S BACK ROOM noon, 1 p.m. Other tours For cigar aficionados, a casual and tastings by reservation but elegant tavern with a ($29-$99). 300 Tingey St. SE, state-of-the-art air-ventilation 202.524.4862 Metro: Navy Yard BARS & LOUNGES servings or glass boots. fine spirits. Tues.-Thurs., Sun. crowds. Panoramic views of system. Lunch, dinner and 2 BIRDS 1 STONE Also mead, cider, brats and 10 p.m.-2 a.m., Fri.-Sat. till 3 White House, Washington late-night menus plus premi- CAPITOL CITY BREWING Under Doi Moi restaurant, skewers. Dogs welcome. a.m. 1802 Jefferson Place NW, Monument and beyond. um cigars and rare whiskeys. COMPANY an intimate cocktail den Mon.-Thurs. 4-10:30 p.m., 202.450.2126 Metro: Dupont All-natural drinks topped Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m., Brewpub with seasonal pours with six selections (in quirky, Fri. noon-midnight, Sat. 11 Circle off with hand-sculpted ice. Fri. till 3 a.m., Sat. noon-3 a.m., and full menu (some bites mismatched glassware) that a.m.-midnight, Sun. 11 a.m.- Full menu of global cuisine, Sun. till 1 a.m. 1331 F St. NW, beer-spiked). 11th and H sts. rotate regularly. Also bar bites 10:30 p.m. 1600 7th St. NW, THE NEXT WHISKY BAR plus late-night bar food. 202.737.3003 Metro: Metro NW (Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-mid- like Vietnamese dumplings 202.350.9888 Metro: Shaw- Inside one of the city’s most Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-midnight, Center night, Fri.-Sat. till 1 a.m., Sun. till sent down from upstairs. Howard U elegant (and notorious) com- Fri.-Sat. till 2 a.m. 515 15th St. 10 p.m.), 202.628.2222 Metro: Tues.-Thurs. 6 p.m.-12:15 a.m., plexes, a hot spot at the reno- NW, 202.661.2400 Metro: Metro THE TOMBS Metro Center Map 1 E7; 4001 Fri.-Sat. 6 p.m.-1:15 a.m. 1800 DECADES vated Watergate Hotel offer- Center A longtime haunt of Campbell Ave., Arlington, Va. 14th St. NW (entrance on S St.) A retro-inspired nightclub fea- ing a large selection of spirits stu- (Mon.-Wed. 11 a.m.-midnight, Metro: U St-Cardozo turing three floors, each with at the bar and in illuminated PX LOUNGE dents, with American comfort Thurs.-Fri. till 1 a.m., Sat. 10 a different theme in decor bottles forming dramatic An elegant 1920s-style speak- food (reuben, crab cake sand- a.m.-1 a.m., Sun. till 10 p.m.), BARMINI and DJ-spun tunes (2000s, curved walls inspired by the easy in a historic town house wich, burgers, pizza), plus 703.578.3888 Adjoining his experimental 1990s, 1980s), plus a cool roof- facade’s mid-century mod- (no sign outside, just a blue late-night menu and pitchers Minibar, celeb chef José top with palm trees and sleek ern design. And the name? lantern marks the upstairs of beer, including Virginia- RIGHT PROPER BREWING Andrés’ sleek cocktail spot sofas. VIP areas, bottle service That’s taken from lyrics sung spot). Spirits master Todd brewed Tombs Ale. Inspired Brew pub in Shaw featuring with 100-plus original cre- tables. 1219 Connecticut Ave. by The Doors. Sun.-Thurs. Thrasher and team mix cock- the bar in “St. Elmo’s Fire.” colorful murals of D.C. and a ations and fresh takes on NW, 202.853.3498. Metro: 4 p.m.-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 4 tails with house-made tonics Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-1:30 focus on playful experimen- classics. Reservations rec- Dupont Circle (South) p.m.-1 a.m. 2650 Virginia Ave. and hand-squeezed juices. a.m., Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 a.m., tation (house-blended strains ommended. Tues.-Thurs. 6 NW, 202.827.1600. Metro: Foggy Venue seats 30-some guests. Sat. 11 a.m.-2:30 a.m., Sun. 9:30 of yeast), plus a full menu of p.m.-1 a.m., Fri.-Sat. till 2 a.m. H STREET COUNTRY CLUB Bottom Reservations recommended. a.m.-1:30 a.m. 1226 36th St. NW, Southern comfort food. View 501 9th St. NW, 202.393.4451 Indoor diversions: mini-golf, Wed.-Thurs. 6 p.m.-mid- 202.337.6668. brewing operation from the Metro: Archives or Gallery Pl- Skee-Ball, shuffleboard and THE PASSENGER night, Fri.-Sat. till 1:30 a.m. back bar. Mon.-Thurs. 5-11 Chinatown pool, available by the hour. Tom Brown’s popular cocktail 728 King St., Alexandria, Va., TOP OF THE GATE p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-mid- Roof deck, Mexican fare and bar in Shaw with a mural in- 703.299.8384 Metro: King Street On the roof of The Watergate night, Sun. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. COPYCAT CO. margaritas made from 20-plus spired by the namesake Iggy Hotel, a swanky lounge of- Also a production facility in On emerging H Street NE, tequilas. Mon.-Thurs. 5 p.m.-1 Pop tune, plus Chartreuse THE ROOFTOP fering stunning views of the Brookland with tasting room a cozy, dimly lit cocktail bar a.m., Fri. 4 p.m.-3 a.m., Sat. 11 on tap and experts mixing Perched atop The Embassy Potomac River, Georgetown and tours. Wed.-Fri. 5-10 where expert mixologists a.m.-3 a.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-1 a.m. drinks. Upstairs, Hogo, a pop- Row Hotel, an open-air ter- and Washington Monument. p.m., Sat. 1-10 p.m., Sun. 1-8 concoct drinks from the 1335 H St. NE, 202.399.4722 up tiki bar pouring shareable race with swimming pool Cocktails, granita cart, gour- p.m. Brew pub, 624 T St. NW, menu or according to pa- drinks served in real pineap- and swank lounge for sip- met pizzas. Mon.-Fri. 5-11 202.607.2337 Metro: Shaw- trons’ cravings. Also short HEIST ples. Mon.-Thurs. 5 p.m.-2 a.m., ping cocktails and taking in p.m., Sat.-Sun. 1-11 p.m. 2650 Howard U; Production facility, menu of Chinese dumplings Behind a black door, a Fri. 5 p.m.-3 a.m., Sat. 3 p.m.-3 views of Dupont Circle, the Virginia Ave. NW, 202.827.1600 920 Girard St. NE, 202.526.5904. and skewers. Sun.-Thurs. 5 subterranean lair of “light- a.m., Sun. 2 p.m.-midnight. Washington Monument and Metro: Foggy Bottom Metro: Brookland-CUA p.m.-2 a.m., Fri.-Sat. 5 p.m.-3 hearted delinquency” with 1539 7th St. NW, 202.853.3588 National Cathedral. Special a.m. 1110 H St. NE, 202.241.1952. faux valuables in display Metro: Shaw-Howard U events like silent disco parties WOK AND ROLL KARAOKE CASINOS cases, reproductions of infa- and dive-in movies. Day pass Above a Chinese-Japanese MGM NATIONAL HARBOR DACHA BEER GARDEN mous stolen paintings and POV available for non-hotel guests restaurant, state-of-the-art CASINO Under a Liz Taylor mural, a security footage of actual Glamorous hot spot with ($30) daily starting at 3 p.m. private karaoke rooms with At the MGM National Harbor lively patio serving European robberies. Crime-themed a rooftop terrace atop 2015 Massachusetts Ave. NW, 90,000 songs in English, Resort, a luxe 125,000-square-

and local brews in single cocktails, champagne and the W Hotel draws chic SUCHMAN ©SCOTT Chinese, Japanese, Korean foot casino featuring

54 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 55 Scene SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Scene

Vegas-style gambling. An 202.503.2330 Metro: New York lor and bachelorette parties. BLACK CAT music Wednesday, Johnny FedEx Field, 1600 FedEx Way, shows. “Native Gardens,” Chinatown ; Lansburgh, 450 Asian gaming pit, 3,300 slot Ave-Gallaudet U (free shuttle) Valet parking day and night. Booking indie rockers for the Artis Band Thursday. Sun.- Landover, Md., 301.276.6000. a new comedy by Karen 7th St. NW, 202.547.1122 Metro: machines, 124 table games, 1520 K St. NW, 202.737.2662 upstairs Mainstage and the Thurs. 5 p.m.-2 a.m., Fri.-Sat. 5 Zacarias about culture clash- Gallery Pl-Chinatown a 39-table poker room and KENNEDY CENTER Metro: McPherson Sq smaller downstairs Backstage p.m.-3 a.m. 2461 18th St. NW, WASHINGTON WIZARDS es between well-meaning a high-limit room, plus the A living memorial to John F. (often local bands). Also DJ 202.667.5370 D.C.’s NBA team on its home neighbor, Sept. 15-Oct. 22. SIGNATURE THEATRE Blossom Cocktail Lounge Kennedy. “Wilderness,” Oct. PAPER MOON and theme nights, pinball ma- court. Guangzhou Long- 1101 6th St. SW, 202.488.3300 Contemporary plays and with views on the action. 7100 12-15; “Carrie Mae Weems: Suburban club with a roster chines, a bar and a cafe with U STREET MUSIC HALL Lions, Oct. 2; New York Knicks, Metro: Waterfront musicals; winner of the 2009 Oxon Hill Road, Oxon Hill, Md., Grace Notes, Reflections for of 100 showgirls. Discounts vegan options. The Huntress Basement dance club Oct. 6; Cleveland Cavaliers, Regional Theater Tony Award. 844.346.4664. Now,” Oct. 20; “The Book of for bachelor parties and other and Holder of Hands, Oct. 3; with DJs and live music, a Oct. 8; Philadelphia 76ers, FORD’S THEATRE “A Little Night Music,” Stephen Mormon,” Oct. 24-Nov. 19; groups. Mon.-Sat. noon-3 Magic City Hippies, Oct. 7; cork-cushioned dance floor Oct. 18; Detroit Pistons, Oct. Historic venue where Lincoln Sondheim’s Tony-winning COMEDY “Grey Skies Blue,” Oct. 25-29; a.m., Sun. 2 p.m.-3 a.m. 6315 Yawning Man, Oct. 9; Swet and two bars. Cigarettes After 20. , 601 F was assassinated. On-site musical, Aug. 15-Oct. 8; “An THE CAPITOL STEPS “Shear Madness,” long-run- Amherst Ave., Springfield, Va., Shop Boys, Oct. 10; Toadies, Sex, Oct. 5; Susto & Esmé St. NW, 202.628.3200. Metro: museum opens one hour be- Act of God,” Oct. 3-Nov. 26. Congressional staff- ning whodunit comedy with 703.866.4160 Oct. 17; The Smoking Popes, Patterson, Oct. 13; Chris Lake, Gallery Pl-Chinatown fore curtain (and for daytime 4200 Campbell Ave., Arlington, ers-turned-comics audience playing detective, Oct. 24. 1811 14th St. NW, Oct. 20; Giraffage, Oct. 25. visits). “Death of a Salesman,” Va., 703.820.9771 satirize politics and life ongoing. Free shows daily LGBT CLUBS 202.667.4490 Metro: U St- 1115A U St. NW, 202.588.1880 SPORTS BARS Arthur Miller’s Pulizter Prize- inside the Beltway. Shows (6 p.m.) on Millennium COBALT Cardozo Metro: U St-Cardozo BUFFALO BILLIARDS winning classic about the STUDIO THEATRE at Ronald Reagan Building Stage. Also cafe, restaurant, Restaurant, lounge and club Cow-print sofas and Indian cost of the American dream. Acclaimed venue for bold Amphitheater Fri.-Sat. at 7:30 gift shops, free tours and in one. Club features DJs, BLUES ALLEY RECREATION pictographs fill this cavern- Sept. 22-Oct. 22. 511 10th St. plays. “Skeleton Crew,” a p.m. $40.25 (online or at door). roof terrace. 2700 F St. NW, dancing, theme parties and Tucked in a Georgetown ESCAPE ROOM LIVE ous D.C.-meets-Montana NW, 202.347.4833 Metro: Metro drama of survival set in one of 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, 202.467.4600 Metro: Foggy “American Idol”-style con- alley, this legendary jazz Teams of players testing pool hall. Fifteen tables, dart Center Detroit’s last auto-stamping 202.312.1555 Metro: Federal Bottom-GWU (free shuttle to/ tests. Sun.-Thurs. 5 p.m.-2 a.m., supper club has showcased their wits to escape locked boards, ping pong, TVs, mi- plants, Sept. 6-Oct. 8. 1501 Triangle from venue) Fri. till 3 a.m., Sat. 5 p.m.-3 a.m. artists like Dizzy Gillespie rooms filled with clues, crobrews and shuffleboard. THE KEEGAN THEATRE 14th St. NW, 202.332.3300 1639 R St. NW, 202.462.6569 and Charlie Byrd since 1965. riddles and red herrings Mon.-Thurs. 4 p.m.-2 a.m., Fri. Small company with focus Metro: Dupont Circle (five DC IMPROV STRATHMORE Metro: Dupont Circle Chick Corea and Steve Gadd (in 45 minutes). Themes till 3 a.m., Sat. noon-3 a.m., on Irish and American works. blocks) Nationally known comedy Scenic acres in Maryland, base Band, Oct. 5-8; Rachelle from Sherlock Holmes and Sun. till 1 a.m. 1330 19th St. NW, “Stones In His Pockets,” a club in downtown D.C. of National Philharmonic and TOWN DANCEBOUTIQUE Ferrell, Oct. 12-15; Anthony Edgar Allan Poe to spies and 202.331.7665 Metro: Dupont tragicomedy following extras WOOLLY MAMMOTH THEATRE with Tex-Mex food menu. second home of Baltimore The area’s largest gay night- Walker and Friends, Oct. mummies. $28. Reservations Circle working on an American Unconventional plays of Roy Wood Jr., Oct. 6-8; Jess Symphony Orchestra. club with state-of-the-art 19; Jane Monheit, Oct. 26- required. 2300 Wisconsin Ave. movie being shot in Ireland, ideas. “The Arsonists,” a bold Hilarious, Oct. 11; Dave Attell, America’s Navy, Celebrating sound and video system, 29. 1073 Wisconsin Ave. NW, NW, 800.616.4880; 814 King FAST EDDIE’S Sept. 23-Oct. 15. 1742 Church new take on Max Frisch’s clas- Oct. 13-15; Gad Elmaleh, 242 Years of Service, Oct. multiple dance floors, plush 202.337.4141 St., 2nd Floor, Alexandria, Va., Casual venue for sports on TV, St. NW, 703.892.0202 Metro: sic political drama reflecting Oct. 19-21. 1140 Connecticut 5; The Midtown Men, lounge and outdoor patio. 800.616.4880.; 3345 M St. NW, with happy hour specials 3-8 Dupont Circle on the rise of Nazism and Ave. NW, 202.296.7008 Metro: Oct. 7; BSO’s “Cirque Goes Hosts energetic drag shows. THE HAMILTON LIVE 800.616.4880. p.m.: Mon. half-price burgers, Communism, Sept. 5-Oct. Farragut North Broadway,” Oct. 12; Shen Yun Cover charge $5-$12. Fri.-Sat. Named for the first Treasury Tues. $2 sliders, Wed. $2 na- THE PUPPET CO. 8. 641 D St. NW, 202.393.3939 Symphony Orchestra, Oct., 10 p.m.-4 a.m. 2009 8th St. secretary, spacious restau- THE GREAT ESCAPE ROOM chos, Thurs. 50-cent wings, Fri. In Glen Echo Park, a com- Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown CONCERTS & OPERA 22. 5301 Tuckerman Lane, N. NW, 202.234.8696 Metro: U St- rant with a live-music venue Based on popular mobile $3 Absolut vodka cocktails, pany using all kinds of pup- CAPITOL ONE ARENA Bethesda, Md., 301.581.5100 Cardozo downstairs. The Secret Sisters, phone games, a real-life puz- Sun. half-price pizza. Karaoke pets to tell children’s tales. WINE BARS Penn Quarter/downtown Metro: Grosvenor Oct. 4; Splintered Sunlight, zler in which teams of up to Fri. and Sat. nights. Mon.- “Pinocchio,” Oct. 5-Nov. 17. FLIGHT arena for sports and shows. MUSIC CLUBS Oct. 7; Eilen Jewell, Oct. 12; 20 people have 60 minutes Thurs. 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Fri. 11 Also, the “Tiny Tots @ 10:00” Owned by spouses Swati Enrique Iglesias & Pitbull, Oct. THE THEATER AT MGM 9:30 CLUB The Steel Wheels, Oct. 15; to find clues and escape a a.m.-3 a.m., Sat. 7 p.m.-3 a.m., series for ages 2 to 4. 7300 Bose and Kabir Amir, a wel- 3; Halsey, Oct. 9; Soul2Soul, NATIONAL HARBOR Frequent winner of nightclub Martin Sexton Trio, Oct. 22; locked room. $28/person Sun. noon-midnight. 1520 K MacArthur Blvd., 301.634.5380. coming spot with dramatic The World Tour, Oct. 13; Guns At the luxury gaming resort of the year. Visit the Back Reckless Kelly, Oct. 28. 600 1730 Connecticut Ave. NW St. NW, 202.638.6800 Metro: semicircular bar offering 460 N’ Roses, Oct. 19; Washington just south of D.C., a 3,000- Bar early for first entry into 14th St. NW, 202.787.1000 Metro: (basement level), 202.930.1843. Farragut North ROUND HOUSE THEATRE selections (30 by the glass International Horse Show, seat theater drawing some shows. Oh Wonder, Oct. 2-3; Metro Center Metro: Dupont Circle Modern classics plus new and half-glass), including Oct. 24-29. 601 F St. NW, of the biggest names in Tash Sultana, Oct. 6; Glass PENN QUARTER SPORTS plays and musicals in a 400- lesser-known varietals. Flights, 202.628.3200 Metro: Gallery Pl- music and comedy, plus UFC Animals, Oct. 8-9; Hamilton THE HOWARD THEATRE SPORTS TAVERN seat Bethesda theater. “In wine cocktails and a short Chinatown and boxing events. Food, Leithauser, Oct. 18; Judah A 1910 landmark that helped WASHINGTON CAPITALS Sidewalk tables, heated patio the Heights,” Lin-Manuel menu of shareable plates. drinks, VIP suites. Chris Rock & The Lion, Oct. 22. 815 V St. launch careers of stars D.C.’s NHL team with star cap- and two floors outfitted with Miranda’s first Broadway musi- Mon.-Thurs. 5-11 p.m., Fri.- EAGLEBANK ARENA Total Blackout The Tour, Oct. NW, 202.265.0930 Metro: U St- like Marvin Gaye and The tain Alex Ovechkin. Montreal multiple TVs for catching the cal, set in NYC, Sept. 6-Oct. 15; Sat. till 1 a.m. 777 6th St. NW, George Mason University 18-21; Steely Dan, Oct. 25; Cardozo Supremes. Aterciopelados, Canadiens, Oct. 7; Pittsburgh game. Pizza, burgers, parme- “I’ll Get You Back Again,” Oct. 202.864.6445 Metro: Gallery center for sporting events Gary Owen and Deon Cole, Oct. 8; Tasha Cobbs, Oct. 18; Penguins, Oct. 11; Toronto san herb-crusted salmon, 4-29. 4545 East-West Highway, Pl-Chinatown and concerts. Disney On Ice Oct. 28; Josh Turner, Oct. 29; THE BIRCHMERE Eric Roberson, Oct. 27-28. 620 Maple Leafs, Oct. 17; Florida grilled hanger steak. Near Bethesda, Md., 240.644.1100 presents “Dare to Dream,” Evanescence, Oct. 31. 7100 Down-home venue dubs T St. NW, 202.803.2899 Metro: Panthers, Oct. 21. Capital Verizon Center. Mon.-Sun. Metro: Bethesda VINOTECA WINE BAR & Oct. 1-8. 4500 Patriot Circle, Oxon Hill Road, Oxon Hill, Md., itself “America’s Legendary Shaw-Howard U One Arena, 601 F St. NW, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. 639 Indiana BISTRO Fairfax, Va., 703.993.3000 844.346.4664. Music Hall,” because stars 202.628.3200. Metro: Gallery Pl- Ave. NW, 202.347.6666 Metro: SHAKESPEARE THEATRE Intimate space for sampling like Mary Chapin Carpenter MADAM’S ORGAN Chinatown Archives-Navy Mem’l-Penn COMPANY 100-plus wines from around ECHOSTAGE GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS played early on. The Live music nightly at this Quarter Led by artistic director the globe, comfort food and Features 30,000 square feet ARCHIBALD’S Psychedelic Furs, Oct. 4; Euge rowdy Adams Morgan bar WASHINGTON REDSKINS Michael Kahn, this company small plates. Daily happy hour for electronic dance music Showgirls on two stages Groove, Oct. 6, Wynonna & where redheads get a half- Winner of Super Bowls XVII, THEATER & DANCE has two downtown stages for specials and back patio with and other genres. Standing every night. (four stages Fri.- The Big Noise, Oct. 9; Mindi price drink special. Pool XXII and XXVI, D.C.’s NFL team ARENA STAGE works by the Bard and other bocce court in warm months. room, bottle-service tables. Sat.) Sports on TV. Lunch spe- Abair & The Boneshakers, Oct. tables, karaoke and rooftop playing at its 79,000-seat Classic and contemporary playwrights. “The Lover” and 1940 11th St. NW, 202.332.9463 Slushii, Oct. 7; Kid Cudi, Oct. cials Mon.-Fri.; dinner till late 12; Colin Hay, Oct. 21; Brian bar. One Nite Stand (reggae, stadium in the Maryland sub- productions in an architectur- “The Collection,” two Harold Metro: U St-Cardozo 8; HennyPalooza, Oct. 21; (wings, burgers, steaks). VIP McKnight, Oct. 21. 3701 Mt. funk, R&B) every Monday, urbs. San Francisco 49ers, Oct. ally striking complex by the Pinter plays, Sept. 26-Oct. Madeon with Vanic, Oct. 28. Lounge for private meetings Vernon Ave., Alexandria, Va., Clusterfunk Tuesday, Human 15; Dallas Cowboys, Oct. 29. water. Catwalk Cafe features 29. Harman, 610 F St. NW, 2135 Queens Chapel Road NE, and events, including bache- 703.549.7500 Country Jukebox country dishes inspired by current 202.547.1122 Metro: Gallery Pl-

56 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 57 Be Well SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Be Well

Take Care BLISS DUPONT NAILS & SPA LUIGI PARASMO SALAMANDER SPA Becky Waddell, shown at left with her infant At the W Hotel, a spa and Multi-service spa with man- SALON AND SPA Luxury spa in horse country retail boutique. Skin and nail icures, pedicures, massages, The first namesake salon from with aroma-infused steam daughter, wants you to “take moments just for care, massages and waxing facials and waxing for women the Italian stylist. Hair color, rooms and treatments like plus customer faves like the and men. Polishes like OPI, cuts. High-tech spa for mas- Rider’s Relief massage. Also you.” And she’s made it easy to do exactly that “triple oxygen treatment” and Gelish and Essie, plus organic sages, peels and mani-pedis hair, nail and makeup services. by opening D.C.’s first locally owned all-natural ginger rub. Also luxurious brands for skin care. Hair: cut, at seats equipped with iPads. Sun.-Thurs. 8:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m., lounges, a brownie buffet style and color. Mon.-Sat. Tues. 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Wed.-Fri. Fri.-Sat. 8:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m. lifestyle boutique. This airy Georgetown space and R&B background music. 9:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.- till 8 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-7 p.m. 500 N. Pendleton St., features her curated selection of plant-based Daily 9 a.m.-9 p.m. 515 15th St. 7:30 p.m. 1718 20th St. NW, 1510 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Middleburg, Va., 866.938.7370 NW, 202.661.2418 Metro: 202.232.6473 Metro: Dupont 202.333.2244 skin care, perfumes and cosmetics from Metro Center Circle (North) SOOTHE brands such as Vapour Organics and Herbivore NECTAR SKIN BAR On-demand service for CAUDALIE FOUNTAINS DAY SPA In a lavender row house, massages (Swedish, deep Botanicals, plus home decor. Expect classes, D.C. outpost of high-end Self-dubbed the “Home of hard-to-find products from tissue, couples) in 60-, 90- French skincare line, drawing Healers and Angels,” a peace- lines like Prtty Peaushun, and 120-minute increments too, like yoga and craft making. 1338 Wisconsin from the grapevines on the ful setting for massages (like Becca Cosmetics and Butter ordered via cellphone app, Ave. NW, 202.717.2600, takecareshopdc.com founders’ family estate in the “Four Hands Massage”), London. Waxing, facial, air- website or phone. Daily Bordeaux. “Beauty Barrel Bar” facials and skincare services. brush tanning and manicure 9 a.m.-midnight. 800.960.7668 for quickie mini facials, hand Also waxing and reflexology. services. Outdoor spa service massages; one treatment Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat. garden, weather permitting. THE SPA AND SALON AT MGM FITNESS STUDIOS PURE BARRE lates. Drop-in class $11.35, mat Floor, 202.588.5198 Metro: room for full facials and mas- till 6 p.m., Sun. 11 am.-6 p.m. Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.-7 p.m. (only NATIONAL HARBOR THE BAR METHOD Fifty-five-minute sessions rental $2. 1635 Connecticut Dupont Circle (North) sages. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.- 422 South Washington St., spray tan and retail on Mon.) A 27,000-square-foot glam “Targeted” body sculpting that use the ballet barre to Ave. NW, Metro: Dupont Circle 8 p.m., Sun. noon-6 p.m. 953 Alexandria, Va., 703.549.1990 1633 Wisconsin Ave. NW, spa with salon and barber workout classes combining perform small, isometric (North); 1910 14th St. NW; 2201 SALONS & SPAS Palmer Alley NW, 202.898.0804 Metro: King Street 202.333.4332 shop. Eleven treatment elements of dance condition- movements for a long, lean Wisconsin Ave. NW ARGENTTA SPA Metro: Metro Center rooms using Clarins products, ing and physical therapy with physique. Nine area loca- Inside The Watergate Hotel, THE GENTLEMEN’S NUSTA plus mani/pedis, couples the pace of interval training. tions (see all on the website). GYMS a luxurious retreat featuring CELADON QUARTERS The U.S.’s first LEED Gold- treatment room, lounge. By Drop-in class $27. 750 9th St. Drop-in class $29. 407 8th St. EQUINOX the original 1960s-era indoor Luxury day spa offering hair, Cuts, shoe shines and hot certified day spa. Massages appointment daily. 101 MGM NW, 202.347.7999 Metro: Gallery SE, 202.847.3708 Metro: Eastern High-end gym and spa pool, plus a sauna, gym, skin, nail, body and medispa shaves in a traditional dark like stone, couples, reflex- National Ave., Oxon Hill, Md., Pl-Chinatown Market; 3308 Wisconsin Ave. chain. Tag line: “sustainable steam room, nail salon and treatments. Stone massage, wood setting. Lounge with ology. Body scrubs, water 301.971.6115 NW, 202.244.7500; 2130 P luxury” (think grass roof, cork treatment areas for massages, coconut sugar scrub, sea- three flat-screen TVs, the daily therapies, facials, nail care and BIKER BARRE St. NW, 202.870.1799 Metro: flooring). No mani/pedis per scrubs and facials. Natural weed body masque. Gift paper, minibar, plus spa for bridal packages. Mon.-Fri. THE SPA AT THE JEFFERSON High-energy spin and barre Dupont Circle LEED guidelines. 1170 22nd skin-care lines include Red brands like Tocca, Agraria, massages, facials, etc. Mon. 10 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.- Massages, facials and classes driven by upbeat St. NW, 202.974.6600; 4905 Elm Flower and Caudalie. Mon.- Anthousa. Mon., Wed., Fri. 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Tues.-Sat. 7 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. treatments that use herbs music and instructors. All SOULCYCLE St., Bethesda, Md., 301.652.1078 Sun. 7 a.m.-9 p.m. 2650 Virginia 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m., Tues., Thurs. 9 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.- 1129 20th St. NW, 202.530.5700 and botanicals grown in levels welcome. Single class Indoor stationary cycling Metro: Bethesda; 8065 Leesburg Ave. NW, 202.838.5000. Metro: till 7 p.m., Sat. till 4:30 p.m. 4 p.m. 105 S. Union St., Metro: Dupont Circle (South) Monticello’s gardens plus $25. 738 7th St. SE, 202.733.1009 classes with a nightclub vibe Pike, Vienna, Va., 703.790.6193 Foggy Bottom 1180 F St. NW, 202.347.3333 Alexandria, Va., 703.836.7330 vinotherapies that reflect Metro: Eastern Market (dim lighting, turned-up Metro: Metro Center THE RED DOOR BY Thomas Jefferson’s passion tunes). 45-, 60- and 90-minute VIDA FITNESS THE ART OF SHAVING GEORGETOWN SALON & SPA ELIZABETH ARDEN for wine. Daily 9 a.m.-8 p.m. FLYWHEEL sessions. Drop-in class $30. Hip local chain with classes, New York-based boutique COATROOM From accomplished D.C. Express facials, massage, 1200 16th St. NW, 202.448.3270 Theater-style studio for sta- 1935 14th St. NW, 202.332.7685; spa and two rooftop pool/ for men’s fine grooming Hip salon for manicures and massage therapist Linda aqua and aromatherapy, Metro: Farragut North tionary cycling on high-tech 601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, lounges. Six locations; see products (shaving kits, facial pedicures (standard or “step Hardiman, a serene spot for makeup services. Hours bikes, plus “Torqboard” for 202.293.7685; 1042 Wisconsin all on website. 601 F St. NW, scrubs). Traditional barber in- up” with spa extras), nail art therapies like Swedish, vary by location. Willard SPA AT THE MANDARIN performance monitoring. Ave. NW, 202.328.7685; 2301 M 202.393.8432 Metro: Gallery store. Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-9 p.m., (fee). Gel, shellac, non-toxic deep-tissue massage and InterContinental Hotel, ORIENTAL Drop-in class $28 (includes St. NW, 202.659.7685 Pl-Chinatown; 1517 15th St. Sat. 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun. polishes. Waxing services. Myofascial release custom- 1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Silk-draped walls, hot and shoes). Also FlyBarre body NW, 202.588.5559 Metro: noon-6 p.m. Union Station, Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. ized to individual needs. Also, 202.942.2700 Metro: Metro cold plunge pools and mini- sculpting. 1927 Florida Ave. SQUASH ON FIRE McPherson Square; 999 9th St. 50 Massachusetts Ave. NE, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. 850 N. Randolph hair cuts, mani-pedis. Mon.- Center; 5225 Wisconsin Ave. malist Asian decor. Ayurvedic NW, 202.830.0755; 824 9th St. The country’s first pay-as-you- NW, 202.742.1940 Metro: Gallery 202.682.1113; 1050 Connecticut St., Arlington, Va., 703.717.5007 Sat. 7 a.m.-7 p.m. 2715 M St. NW, NW, 202.362.9890 Metro: massages, sesame body NW, 202.684.7208 go squash facility, offering Pl-Chinatown Ave. NW, 202.223.1433 Metro: Ballston 202.333.8099 Friendship Heights scrubs, facials. Daily 9 a.m.- eight courts (two all-glass) for 9 p.m. 1330 Maryland Ave. SW, JOY OF MOTION rentals, lessons and clinics. MEDITATION STUDIO BARBER OF HELL’S BOTTOM DRYBAR GROOMING LOUNGE THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA, 202.787.6100 Founded in 1976, a dance Pro shop, bar, restaurant and TAKE FIVE MEDITATION Old-school barbershop in an A “blow dry bar” offering Upscale spot for men’s shav- GEORGETOWN center that welcomes all patio. Rentals from $10. 2233 D.C.’s first meditation-only industrial-style space made $45 blowouts in a chic ing and hair care products A newly remodeled luxury VARNISH LANE levels for ballet, jazz, modern, M St. NW, 202.241.2233. Metro: studio, offering drop-in hip by tattooed stylists and white salon. Styles ranging with brands like Jack Black, oasis offering facials, massage Environmentally conscious tap, hip hop, zumba and Foggy Bottom and membership-based barbers practicing straight- from loose curls to sleek plus salon’s own line. Services therapy, hair removal/tinting salon in a townhouse setting more. Drop-in class $19. 1333 classes that range from 30 razor shaves. Hair cuts, beard and shiny. Hours vary by include hot lather shaves, nail and maternity treatments for waterless manicures and H St. NE, 202.399.6763; 5207 YOGA DISTRICT to 45 minutes (Breathe Now, trimming, color and gray location. 1825 Wisconsin treatments and facials. Hours using ESPA products. Two pedicures. Non-toxic brands Wisconsin Ave. NW, second An eco-friendly, community- Meditation for Athletes, blending. Mon. noon-5 p.m., Ave. NW, 202.609.8644; 4840 vary by location. 1745 L St. NW, couples rooms, plus steam like Smith & Cult, along with floor, 202.362.3042 Metro: run nonprofit with seven stu- Unplug), plus a 75-minute Tues.-Fri. 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sat. Bethesda Ave., Bethesda, Md., 202.466.8900 Metro: Farragut room, sauna and fitness designer lines. Tues.-Fri. 10 a.m.- Friendship Heights; 7315 dios (see all locations on web- Mindfulness Games session. 9 a.m.-6 p.m. 818 Rhode Island 240.483.4277 Metro: Bethesda; North; Tysons Galleria, 1001 center. Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-7 p.m., 7 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun. Wisconsin Ave., Suite 180E, site) and a wide selection of Drop-in class $20-$30. 1803 Ave. NW, 202.332.0200 1635 Connecticut Ave. NW, International Drive, McLean, Sat.-Sun. 9 a.m.-7 p.m. 3100 11 a.m.-4 p.m. 5236 44th St. Bethesda, Md., 301.986.0016 classes, from flow and restor- Connecticut Ave. NW, Second 202.719.3809 Metro: Dupont Va., 703.288.0355 South St. NW, 202.912.4175 NW, 202.506.5308 Metro:

Metro: Bethesda ative to Ashtanga and yoga- HARRIS ©ISABEL Circle (North) Metro: Foggy Bottom Friendship Heights

58 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 59 Map 1 WASHINGTON, D.C. & METRORAIL Maps

VE NW

National To: Lincoln To: Shrine of the To: Washington Zoological ADAMS National Cathedral Cottage Immaculate Conception, Park, MORGAN Pope John Paul II Center, Hillwood Franciscan Monastery, Museum Meridian Catholic U. International Center Meridian Hill Rhode Park 1 Island Ave/ Brentwood 14TH & U Whitehaven CORRIDOR Park Islamic Lincoln Theatre Center RHODE ISLAND AVE NE Dumbarton U St./Cardozo Oaks Park L. Ron Hubbard EMBASSY House Source ROW Theatre Scottish Shaw/Howardard UU Rite Temple Sheridan Circle National Dupont Theatre J Arboretum GEORGETOWN Circle Logan SHAW DUPONT Circle 50 CIRCLE Gallaudet Univ. Scott Circle NY Ave/ 1 Florida Ave Thomas Mt. Vernon Circle Sq. Washington Convention Center

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FIRST ST. TINGEY ST. 27 Potomac N ST. Park WATER ST. Points of Interest Pentagon Nationals

WATER-ATER- FIRST ST Park Yards Park To: Smithsonian – Metro Stops Pentagon (9/11) FRONTFRONT Anacostia Air Force Memorial Memorial Pentagon Community Museum

60 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 61 Maps WASHINGTON, D.C. REGION Maps

Map 2 ARLINGTON, VA Map 3 METROPOLITAN AREA Map 4 BETHESDA, MD.

495 Farragut To Foggy Bottom West GWU National Medical Center 73 Institutes of Health 270 Walter Reed National 66 ROSSLYN Military Medical Center 72 JONES BRIDGE R D Rosslyn CENTER DR M COLONIAL ARY

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62 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017 63 WHERE IN WASHINGTON, D.C.

We’re addicted to outdoor fitness classes

 Local influencers Boating in DC Be Your Best Daily November Project Liaison Capitol weigh in on where Fall makes me I have the best This class, every Hill Hotel to feed their latest think about wearing personal trainer, Monday, Wednes- There are so many obsessions. This Henley sweaters Kuti Mack. I day and Friday reasons to love the month? They're and rowing on the haven’t done the at 6:30 a.m., is a morning poolside hungry for outdoor river. I love water same workout in sweat-inducing yoga: the view, the fitness classes. sports and have four years, and we series of sprints, serenity, and the Here's where they always wanted to exercise all over push-ups, stair proximity to Art & go to get their fill. learn how to row. the place. He can climbs and bur- Soul’s scrump- This outfit offers invent a fun and pees. On Wednes- tious Chicken and outdoor For more great lessons for newbies effective workout in days it’s held at the Waffles downstairs activities in the city, visit wheretraveler.com like me and coach- a stairwell, or with Lincoln Memo- after you’ve been ing for more experi- a park bench, but rial. New faces are active enough to enced rowers. my favorite is when always welcome. deserve it. –Philippa Hughes, he brings out the The best part: It’s –Kate Michael, chief creative boxing gloves! completely free. former Miss D.C.; contrarian, The –Kate Goodall, –Tim Ebner, food editor at large, Pink Line Project, CEO, Halcyon, and travel writer, K Street Magazine;

@pinklineproject @goodallkate @timebner @theauthentikate ©JCARILLET/ISTOCK

64 WHERE I OCTOBER 2017