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Diving the Oil Rigs Off Louisiana’S Coast Don’T Let That Get Aim, in the Way of the Hunt for Fresh Tuna

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Diving the Oil Rigs Off Louisiana’S Coast Don’T Let That Get Aim, in the Way of the Hunt for Fresh Tuna 0309_OilRigDivers_final.qxp_0114:Feature 1/15/09 9:56 AM Page 50 Ready, If a shark doesn’t kill you, shallow-water blackout or a giant propeller might. But the spearfishermen free - diving the oil rigs off Louisiana’s coast don’t let that get Aim, in the way of the hunt for fresh tuna. By Thayer Walker Sushi. 0309_OilRigDivers_final.qxp_0113:Feature 1/13/09 11:02 AM Page 51 Photographs by D.J. Struntz Craig Clasen battles an aggressive 12-foot tiger shark; left, grabbing some air. 0309_OilRigDivers_final.qxp_0113:Feature 1/13/09 11:02 AM Page 52 FROM THE SURFACE, the oil platform As the crew prepared to leave, a third man, compelled him to finish the job. But evolution Medusa appears an unlikely fishing hole. The filmmaker Ryan McInnis, became distracted designed these animals masterfully—big rig, a tight weave of steel girders supporting filming a playful pair of squid at the surface, body, small brain—and Clasen couldn’t cranes, a helipad, and the roughnecks who 150 feet from the boat. When he turned “stone” the shark, despite shooting it several run it, rests atop a narrow support pillar like a around, the 33-year-old McInnis saw a 12- more times. Every time he approached the giant industrial lollipop. Thirty-six miles foot tiger shark, drawn by a perfume of bloody fish underwater, it would snap violently to south of the Mississippi River’s mouth, off the chum. The shark charged. Armed with only life, until finally he took a deep breath of air, coast of Louisiana, in more than 2,200 feet of his video camera, McInnis knew he had to do swam down to 40 feet, slid under its belly, and water, Medusa extracts up to 40,000 barrels something, so he pressed RECORD. The shark wrestled the shark to the surface by its pec- of crude oil and 110 million cubic feet of natu- veered away just a foot from him and began to toral fins. “I had to bear-hug it to keep it from Fral gas every day. In one of nature’s ironic circle. McInnis yelled for the boat. biting my head off,” Clasen recalls. Kirkcon- twists, this floating monolith doubles as a With a tangle of lines hanging off the nell threw him a rope, which he lassoed thriving, vertical coral reef, which is precise- stern, Kirkconnell couldn’t immediately around the shark’s tail. They dragged it be- ly the reason that Craig Clasen and Cameron speed over to McInnis. Clasen (nickname: hind the boat until it drowned. Kirkconnell motored a crew out there one “Ragin’ Cajun”), still in the water and with A somber mood fell over the men. “I want sunny day last June. just seconds to act, swam toward his friend, to be very clear,” Clasen said remorsefully. As two of the world’s best spearfishermen, speargun in hand. “That was not a proud kill for me, but I didn’t Clasen and Kirkconnell, both 32, are famous By the time Clasen reached McInnis, the have a choice. She was just being a shark.” in diving circles for spearing fish the size of shark had tightened its circle, and the men The men eat what they kill, so they cut a fil- offensive linemen. But unlike many of their couldn’t reach the boat and fend off the pred- let off the tiger and ate it sashimi style. It tast- peers who hunt using scuba gear, Clasen and ator simultaneously. Clasen has spent much ed like oatmeal with rubber bands in it. “It Kirkconnell are freedivers. In one of the of his life swimming harmoniously with was terrible,” Clasen recalls. purest, most physically challenging forms of sharks, but this one had a different feel. After hearing about the story from photog- hunting, the men dive to 100 feet on a single “Every bone in my body was telling me that rapher D.J. Struntz, who was in the water breath for two minutes or more, a discipline this shark was up there to feed,” says Clasen. when it happened, I gave Clasen a call. “A lot Kirkconnell describes as “calculated insanity.” Tigers are swimming garbage disposals— of people don’t understand what we do,” he After hours of yo-yoing through the water they’ve been known to swallow sea turtles said. “They’re going to think I’ve lost my column at Medusa, the men had a large cooler and old tires whole. When the shark made a mind. But this is not Disneyland. You come on stocked with an Audubon guide of game fish: move toward the men, Clasen shot it through down here. We’ll show you.” wahoo, tuna, dorado. They planned on eating the gills. well that night. Everything was going accord- It was a devastating blow but not lethal, THERE’S HARDLY a more egalitarian sport ing to plan, until suddenly it wasn’t. and the hunter’s code that governs Clasen than freediving: Trudge into the water, put on 52 Outside 0309_OilRigDivers_final.qxp_0114:Feature 1/15/09 9:56 AM Page 53 From far left, Clasen hunts in sargassum weed; Clasen and Kirk- connell near an oil rig in the Gulf; Clasen eyeing wahoo. runs the risk of becoming ground beef in a A somber mood fell over the men. “I want giant propeller. In 2007, 41-year-old former to be very clear,” Clasen said remorsefully. Navy SEAL James Martin drowned after shooting a big fish, which slammed him “That was not a proud kill for me, but I didn’t against the rig and knocked him unconscious. have a choice. She was just being a shark.” People have been “diving the rigs” for decades—it’s legal, and the roughnecks and divers have forged a peaceful coexistence. a dive mask, take a big breath, and kick to- blackout. Intermediate divers are often Clasen, a fifth-generation New Orleans resi- ward the bottom. Yet rarely is it that simple, skilled enough to dive deep and stay down dent, began when he was 16. At six foot two, and in recent years the sport has developed a for extended periods, but they can lack the he’s built like a tank and speaks with an aw- nasty habit of killing its stars. lung capacity to complete the round-trip. shucks southern drawl that belies the fact In 2002, 28-year-old Frenchwoman They are the ones most likely to black out that he’s been successful at nearly everything Audrey Mestre died while attempting a “no during ascent and drown. But even experts he’s done. limits” free diving world record in the can get into trouble. In 2004, champion At Isidore Newman School, Clasen was an Dominican Republic. A weighted sled pulled Hawaiian spearfisherman Gene Higa all-state linebacker, and his senior year he be- her to 561 feet, but the balloon meant to shoot drowned off Oahu, likely as a result of came co-captain, taking over for a quarter- her to the surface never fully inflated, and she shallow-water blackout. back by the name of Peyton Manning. After drowned. In 2007, former world champion On the oil platforms, blackout is but one of graduating from the U.S. Merchant Marine Loïc Leferme, also from France, died during a myriad dangers. The structures Clasen and Academy, at Kings Point, New York (where he no-limits dive to the same depth. While the Kirkconnell prefer sit in hundreds, if not met Kirkconnell), he fulfilled his military world’s best freediving spearfishermen don’t thousands, of feet of water, where strong cur- service by piloting supply ships to Kuwait in use sleds or balloons or go anywhere near rents can yank a diver toward Belize. Sharks the early days of the Iraq war. Today he lives in those depths, they nevertheless account for are an omnipresent threat, as is falling debris a slick French Quarter bachelor pad and, like most of the sport’s fatalities. from the platforms hundreds of feet above. his father and grandfather before him, is a Shallow-water blackout is the main cul- The quarry itself can also kill. A line con- Mississippi River pilot, one of the most cov- prit. As the lungs compress under pressure nects the spear to the gun’s barrel, and even a eted jobs on the water. at depth, they push oxygen into the blood 30-pound fish, when shot, can tie a diver in Kirkconnell, six-three, brash, and outspo- and tissues. When a diver ascends, however, Boy Scout knots around a pylon in seconds. ken, with thick, unkempt brown hair, holds expanding lungs suck oxygen out of the Then, of course, there’s the structural engi- five spearfishing world records, including bloodstream and tissues, increasing the neering to consider. Thrusters power some a 201-pound dogtooth tuna—a ferocious, chances of extreme oxygen deficiency and platforms, and a diver who swims too close rocket-fast deep-water continued on page 92 OUTSIDEONLINE.COM Outside 53 0309_OilRigDivers_final.qxp_0113:Feature 1/13/09 11:02 AM Page 92 OIL RIG DIVERS continued from page 53 Kirkconnell with a 20- fish widely considered the sport’s most diffi- pound red snapper cult quarry—he shot in Indonesia. He’s li- censed to captain just about anything that floats, and recently he’s been working on bulk carriers as a first mate, spending months at a time crossing oceans. During downtime at sea, he stays in shape by running a ship’s 14 stories while holding his breath. I’m a longtime surfer and dive master, but I held no illusions of keeping up with these guys.
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