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1

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GREECE IS***/ GREECE

fun' a t(

HANDBOOKFORTRAVELLERS

BY

KARLBAEDEKER

WITH 8MAPS,15PLANS,ANDAPANORAMAOFATHENS

SECONDREVISEDEDITION

LEIPSIC : KARLBAEDEKER,PUBLISHER 1894 Allrightsreserved. Where'ere w tread'tishaunted,holyground Noearthofthineislostinvulgarmould*. Byron. PREFACE.

The aimoftheHandbooktoGreece,whichnowap pearsforthesecondtimeinanEnglishgarb,corresponding tothethirdGermanedition,istosupplythetravellerwith themostnecessaryinformationregardingthehistoryand cultureofthepeopleheisabouttovisit,torenderhimas independentaspossibleof theservicesofcouriers,guides, andcommissionnaires,toprotecthimagainstextortion,and ineverywaytoaidhiminderivingenjoymentandinstruc tionfromhistourinoneofthemostprofoundlyinteresting countriesintheworld. LiketheEditor'sotherHandbooks,thisvolumeisfounded onpersonalacquaintancewiththeplacesdescribed.The manuscriptformingthenucleusof theworkwaspreparedby Dr.Lolling,nowCuratoroftheEpigraphicalMuseumat Athens,whoseknowledgeofGreeceisderivedfromaresi denceofmanyyearsinthecountryandwhohasalsocon tributedlargelytothepresentedition.TheaccountofOlym- piawasfurnishedmainlybyDr.Dbrpfeld,DirectoroftheGer manArchaeologicalSchoolatAthens.Manyothertravellers furnishedusefulhintsandinformation,andtheEditorhimself visitedGreeceinordertosupplementtheworkofhislearned colleaguesbysuchpracticaladditionsasweresuggestedby alongexperienceinthepreparationofguide-books.Thein troductorysketchofGreekArtisfromthepenofProfessor ReinhardKekuU(whoseintroductionsformoneofthemost valuablefeaturesoftheEditor'sHandbookstoItaly)andhas beenadaptedforEnglishreaderswiththehelpofDr.Joseph T.Clarke.Formostacceptableaidinthepreparationofthe EnglisheditionEditor thealsotendershisthankstoMrs. Lewis (MissAgnesSmith);toProfessorMahaffyofTrinity College,Dublin;andtoDr.Sandys,PublicOratorof the UniversityofCambridge. Thoughthegreatestpainshavebeentakentoensureac curacy,theEditoriswellawareof theconstantfluctuation towhichmanyofthedataintheHandbookareliable.He willthereforehighlyappreciateanycorrectionsorsuggestions withwhichtravellersmayfavourhim,especiallyifthere sultoftheirownobservation.Communicationsofthisnature havefrequentlybeenofthegreatestuseinthecaseofhis otherHandbooks. vi PREFACE. TheMapsandPlansoftheHandbookhaveineach casebeenpreparedfromthelatestmaterialavailable(comp. p.cxii).ThemapoftheKingdomofHellasattheendof thevolume,onascaleof1: 1,000,000,isfoundeduponthemap oftheImperialGeographicalInstituteofVienna(1: 300,000; p.cxii),withnumerousmodificationsandadditions.Thestate ofthenetworkofroads,withwhichGreeceisgraduallybeing covered,andoftherailways,isrepresentedasitwasatthe beginningof1893.TheFrenchorthographyofthenames (comp.p.xli)hasbeenadoptedbecausethemapisalsoused intheFrenchandGermaneditionstheHandbook. of The sameremarkappliestotheplansofAthens,thePiraeus,and Corinth,withtheadditionalreasonthattheFrenchnames ofthestreetsareoccasionallyemployedasalternativesto theGreekones. Distancesbyrailwayorhigh-roadaregivenapproxi matelyinEnglishmiles(5/sEngl,mile=nearly1 Stddionor kilometre).Wherethetimebetweentwoplacesisgiven insteadofthedistance,thereference,unlessexpresslystated tobeotherwise,istotheordinarymodeoflocomotionin Greece,vis.onhorseback.Asthepaceisinvariablyawalk, an hourrarelymeansthan morethreeEnglishmiles,andfre quentlymeansless(comp.p.xvii).Heightsaregivenfrom themosttrustworthysources,reducedtoEnglishfeet(1Engl, ft.=0.3048metre,Greekptchys).ThePopulationsare thoseascertainedbythelatestcensus. Hotels. ThehotelsystemofGreeceisstillsoundevelop ed,thatit isdifficulttogivesatisfactorydataconcerning housesofentertainment.Theasterisks,however,indicate thosewhichtheEditorhas reasontobelievearecompara tivelyclean,respectable,andreasonable. A listof themodernGreektopographicalandotherterms occurringmostfrequentlyinthetextisgivenatp.xviii.For hintsastothepronunciationofmodernGreek,seepp.xxx,xli. ItshouldbenoticedthattheJulianCalendar,which istwelvedaysbehindtheGregorian,isstillfollowedin Greece.January1stinGreececorrespondsthereforetoJan uary13thinWesternEurope. To hotel-keepers,tradesmen,andotherstheEditorbegs tointimatethatacharacterforfairdealingandcourtesyto wardstravellersformsthesolepassporttohiscommendation, andthatadvertisementsofeverykindarestrictlyexcluded fromhisHandbooks.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION. Page I. PracticalHints xi a. ModeofTravelling.Hotels.Railways.Couriers. Agogiats.Equipment.TopographicalTerms... xii b. Steamboats xviii c.Season.PlanofTour.PublicSecurity xx d. RestaurantsandCafe's.Wine.Tobacco....xxii e. Money.Passports.CustomHouse xxv f.PostandTelegraphOffices xxvi g. Climate.Health xxvii II.TheModernGreekLanguage xxii III.i DvisionsoftheCountry.GeneralSketchofAgricul ture,Industry,andCommerce xlii IV. TheGreekPeople xlvi Church andClergy lii V.ChronologicalSurveyofGreekHistory liv VI. HistoryofGreekArt,byProfessorReinhardKekuUlxiii General Characteristics lxiii EarlyStages lxviii DevelopmentandZenithofArchaicArt lxxii Phidias andhisContemporaries lxx PolykleitosandhisSchool xci Familyf o Praxiteles.Skopas xciii LysipposandApelles xcviii Greek ArtintheTimeoftheDiadochi.Pergamon. Rhodes. Borne c VII. BooksandMaps cx Eoute 1. FromMarseillesandMessinatothePirasus(Athens). . 1 2.FromTriesteandBrindisitoCorfu(andAthens)...4 3. Corfu 5 4.FromCorfutoKephallenia 14 5.Kephallenia 15 6.Ithaka 22 7. FromCorfutoPatras 26 ExcursionsinS.AcarnaniaandzEtolia 30 FromPatrastoCorinththroughtheGulfofCorinth.. 33 8. Athens 34 General RemarksontheSitethe ofTowninAncient and Modern Times 37 History 38 a.FromtheRoyalPalaceroundthe8.SideoftheAcro polis(Palace, Olympieion, Stadion, Monument ofLysikrates,TheatreofDionysos,OdeionofHe- rodesAtticus,Areopagus) vlll CONTENTS. Eoute Page b.TheAcropolis(TempleofNike,Propylsea,Parthe non,Erechtheion,AcropolisMuseum) 57 e. FromthePalacethroughtheTowntotheTheteion (StreetofHermes,Hadrian'sStoa,Towerofthe "Winds,eion),DipylonGateof(StreettheAgora,theStoa ofTombsofAttalos,outsideThes-the Dipylon),HilloftheNymphs,Pnyx,andMonu mentof Phildpappos 80 d.TheModernQuartersoftheTownandtheLarge CollectionsofAntiquities(Academy,University, PolytechnicInstitute,NationalMuseum)....92 e.WalksnearAthens(Lykabettos,Kolonos,Botanical Garden) 105 9.ExcursionsinAttica 107 a. ThePiraeus 108 b. Salamis Ill c. Eleusls 114 d.Phyle 118 e.Kephlsia.Tato'i 119 f. Pentelikon 121 g.KaesarianiandHymettos 123 h.Marathon 123 FromMarathontoRhamnus 127 i. LaurionandCapeSunion 128 Bridle-pathfromAthenstoLaurion 134 10. vEgina 135 11. Syra,Mykonos,andDelos 139 CENTRAL GREECE. 12. FromAthenstoCorinthviaMegara 147 13.FromCorinthtoDelphiviaItea 150 From SalonatoThermopylae 151 Ascentf o Mt.Parnassos 167 14.FromDelphitoLlvadia 158 15- FromLivadiatoThebes: a. DirectRouteviaHallartos 163 b.MountainPathviaKoutoumoula,theValleyofthe Musesn o Helicon,Thespise,Leuktra,andPlatsea166 16.FromAthenstoThebes 174 From PhyletoThebes 175 Thebes 176 FromThebestoChalkis 180 17.FromAthenstoThebesorChalkisviaTanagra....181 18. FromThebesalongtheEasternBankofLakeKopaisto Orchomenos 185 FromMartinotoThermopylee 190 19. FromLlvadiatoOrchomenos 193 FromSkripoutoDrachmani 196 CONTENTS. ix Route Page 20.FromLivadiatoLamfaviaDrachmaniandBondouitza. Thermopylae 196 Tithora 197 Herakleia.Trachis 202 FromLamiatoStylida 203 21. Eubcea 204 a. Chalkis 206 b. FromChalkistoKarystosviaEretria 206 c. FromChalkistoKoumi.TheDelph 210 d.FromChalkistoXerochori.Arteniision 212

THESSALY. 22. FromAthenstoVolo '215 23. FromVolotoLarissa 218 24. FromLarissatoTrikkala 223 25. FromVolotoTrikkalaandKalabakaviaPhersala... 224 MonasteriesofMete'ora '228 26.FromPhersalatoLamiaviaDomoko 229

THE PELOPONNESUS. 27. CorinthandtheIsthmusofCorinth 232 28.FromCorinthtoPatras 237 Sikyon 238 29. FromCorinthtoNauplia.Nemea.. 240 30.FromAthenstoNaupliaviajEginaandEpidauros. . 243 31.FromAthenstoNaupliabySea 247 32. Nauplia.Tiryns.Argos.Mycenae 249 33. FromNaupliatoKalamatabySea 262 34.FromArgostoSpartaviaHagiosPetros 264 35.FromArgostoTripolitza 268 36.FromTripolitzatoSpartaviaTegea 270 37.Spartaits andNeighbourhood 274 Therapne.Mistra 280 FromSpartaacrossTaygetostoKalamata 281 FromSpartatoGytheion 283 38. FromSpartatoMegalopolis 285 39. FromTripolitzatoKalamataviaMegalopolis 288 40. FromTripolitzatoiEgionontheGulfofCorinth. .. 291 From PheneostoNemea 296 41. FromTripolitzatoOlympiaviaDimitzana 301 42.FromMegalopolistoOlympiaviaKarytaenaandAndrit- ssena ; 305 43.FromAndritssenatoPhigaleia 310 44. FromMegalopolistoOlympiaviaPhigaleiaandSamikon314 From KliditoPyrgos 319 46. FromPatrastoKalamatabySea 320 CONTENTS. Route Page 46. FromPatrastoOlympia 322 Elis 323 FromPatrastoOlympiavia,Santameri 824 47.Olympia 325 48.Kalam&ta,Messene,andthencetoPhigaleia 346 49. FromKalamatatoPhigaleiaviaPylosandKyparissia. 353 From PylostoMessene 857 From KyparissiatoMessene 860 FromKyparissiatoSamikon 360 Index 361 Listf o HapsandPlans. Maps.—1.TravellingMapofGreece(1: 1,000,000),inthepocket attheendof thehook. 2. IslandofCorfu(1: 300,000),p. 4. 3. Islandoflthaka(1: 160,000),p.22. 4.EnvironsofAthens(1: 150,000),p.106. 5.EnvironsofMarathon(1: 150,000),p.124. 6.EnvironsofCorinth(1: 136,000),p.233. 7.EnvironsOlympia of (1:200,000),p.325. 8. Key-MapofGreece(1:3,000,000),showingthe variousroutes,aftertheIndex. Plans.—1. EnvironsoftheTownofCorfii:35,000), (1 p. 6.— 2.Athens(1: 10,000),p.34.—3. TheAcropolisof Athens(1: 2100),p.56.—4.TAePiraeus(1: 25,000), p.109.—5.Eleusis(1: 2000),p.114.—6.Delos (1: 4800),p.142.—7.Delphi(1: 10,000),p.152.— 8.Thebes(1:18,000),p.176.—9.The Hieronof Epidauros(1:2000and 1:12,000),p.244.—10. Nauplia(1: 14,000),p.250.—11.Tiryns(1: 2400), p.251.—12.Mycenae(1: 15,000),p.258.—13.Sparta (1: 76,000),p.274.—14.Olympia(1:2150),p.326. —16.Messene(1: 15,000),p.348. PanoramaofAthens,fromtheLykabettos,p.104. Ground-PlansoftheNationalMuseumatAthens, p.98, ofthe TempleofApolloatBassae,p.311,andof theMuseumat Olympia,p.341. TwoDiagramsillustratingtheOrdersofGreekArchitecture,after theIndex. Abbreviations. R. =Room,B.=Breakfast,D.=Dinner,A.=Attendance,L.=Light, pens.=pension.—r.=right,1.=left.—N.,S.,B.,andW.,thecardinal pointsofthecompassandadjectivesderivedfromthem.—M.=Engl, mile;ft.=Engl.feet.—fr.=franc;c.=centime;dr.=drachma: 1.=lepton"). Asterisksareemployedasmarksofcommendation. INTRODUCTION.

I. Practical Hints. AjourneytoGreecenolonger rankswiththoseexceptional favoursoffortunewhichfalltothelotofbutfewindividuals. Athens,thankstomodernrailwaysandsteamers,hasbeenbrought withinfourdaysofLondon.FromBrindisi,whichisreachedfrom Londonin60hrs.,thetravellerproceedsbysteamertoCorfuin 12hrs.,andthencein16hrs.moretoPatras,whencetherail waytakeshimtoCorinthin4,toAthensin74/2 hrs.Thevoyage fromBrindisitoAthens,whichformerlytook2^2daysroundthe S.pointofthePeloponnesus,hasbeenreducedalmostonehalfby theopeningofthecanalthroughtheIsthmusofCorinth(p.236). The numberoftravellerswho,afterexploringItalyandSicily,turn theirstepstowardtheclassicshoresofHellas,theearliesthome of thebeautiful, willdoubtless thereforeconstantlyincrease.Even theshortestsojourninthecountryitselfwillyieldtherichest rewardsandcontributemorethanlongyearsofstudytowardsa thoroughcomprehensionofacivilisation,fromwhichmodernlife hasstillmuchtolearn.Wemust,however,rememberthat,while thecolumnedbeautyofGreekarchitecturestillexercisesadirect andpowerfulinfluenceinspiteoftheruinbroughtaboutbythe handoftimeor ofman,thecaseisnotthesamewithregardtothe ancientworksofsculpture,foran adequateappreciationofwhich aspecialpreparationisnecessary.Thosewhocomefreshfromthe noblegalleriesofHomeandNaplesmayatfirstfeelsomedisap pointmentintheterriblydilapidatedconditionofmanyofthe Greekworks,andperhapsalsowiththewarehouselikearrangement ofthemuseumsinwhichtheyareexhibited.But,whenallowance hasoncebeenmadeforthesedisadvantages,allthedeeperisthe insightintoGreekart,thecreationsofwhichmeetushereintheir firstfreshnessandintheiroriginalform,—not,asisalmostuni versallythecaseinItaly,inthecopiesandadaptationsoftheRo manperiod.Anotherimportantelementintheenjoymentof a visittoGreeceissomecapacityforsympatheticappreciationof southernscenery,withitsbarebutnoblyformedandclearlycut mountains,itsdeep-bluegulfs,anditsclearetherealatmosphere, whichbringsdistantobjectsclosetothebeholderandrobssha dowsoftheirdepthandgloom.Thevariegatedcharmofnor a thernlandscapemustnotbelookedforinGreeceanymorethanin xii I. PRACTICALHINTS. Italye ; w mustlearntocomprehendandpayaduemeedofadmi rationtothe severeharmonyofcolourswhichherecharacterizes mountainandplain, rocks,buildings,andevenvegetation. a.ModeofTravelling.Hotels.Railways.Couriers. Agogiats.Equipment.TopographicalTerras. A stayinAthensis,sofarasexternalconditionsareconcerned, similartoastayatNaplesorPalermo.Likethesetowns,theGreek capitalaffordsalltheconvenienceswhichmosttravellersfindnecess aryforcomfort.Therearehereseveralexcellenthotelsthe offirst class,andalsogoodsecond-classhotels,fittedupinthestyleof anItalianlocandaandfurnishedwithatrattoriaorrestaurant.In thelargerhotelstheordinaryruleistopaya fixedsumperday, varyingfromto 1015fr.accordingtotheseason; thispricein cludesbreakfast,luncheon(aboutnoon),dinner(at6or7p.m.), androom(3-5fr.).Inthesecond-classnousesthe chargeforrooms issomewhatlower,andmealsaretakenalacarte.Themostim portantpointsintheenvironsmaynowbereachedbyrailway; otherexcursionsmaybemadebycarriageoronhorseback. The conditionsatCorfiiresemblethoseatAthens.Goodinns andgoodroadsmakeavisitto thislovely islandeasyforthemost fastidioustraveller; andthosewhohavespenttwoorthreedays herewillalwaysrememberitssceneryasoneofthemoststriking naturalfeaturesatour ofinGreece. In therestofGreecetolerableinns(S^oSo^eTa,Xenodoch(a). resemblingthelocandasofthesmalltownsofS. Italy,arefound onlyincertaintownssituatedontherailways: e.g.atthePiraeus, Corinth,Nauplia,Tripolitza,Patras,Olympia,Kalamata,Volo, Lamia,andLarissa;andalsoatSyra,Zante,andKephallenia(Ar- gostolf).Adistinctbargainshouldinallcasesbemadebeforehand astothepriceofrooms.Thelandlordsusuallyseektochargefor allthebedsinaroom,whethertheyareusedornot. At otherplacesin theinteriortheaccommodationfortravellers is stillofthescantiestdescription,unlesstheyhavethegoodfor tunetobearintroductionsensuringthehospitalityofsomeofthe well-to-donatives.Theinns,sometimescallingthemselvesXeno- dochfa,butgenerallycontentwiththehumblertitleofKhans,are usuallymiserablecottages,withakitchenandonelargecommon- sleeping-room; nowadayssomeofthemalsopossessafewseparate rooms,whichare,however,destituteoffurniture,glasswindows, andfire-places.Thetravellermustbringhisowncoveringswith him,astherugspresentedhimforbed-clothesarealmostalways fullofvermin.Fora similarreasonasleeping-bagoflinenorcotton cloth,tyingtightlyroundtheneck,willaddtohiscomfort.Native wine,raki(spirits),andcoffeemaygenerallybehad,buttheonly solidfareofferedconsistsofbreadandcheeseandeggsandocca sionallya fowl.Thetravelleristhereforethrownuponhisown I. PRACTICALHINTS. xiii resourcesforthegreaterparthis offood,whichheshouldbring withhimfromAthens.Thegreatestdrawbacksthecivilisedtra vellerfindsinthesehousesarethedirtandthevermin,which causemanysoextremeanannoyance,thattheirkeenenthusiasm intreadingclassicsoilandtheirdeepadmirationforGreeksce nerybecomeseriouslyimpaired.Thepestswhichrendernight hideousincludenotonlytheflea(psillous),withwhichthetra vellerinItalyhasprobablybecomemoreorlessfamiliar,butalso bed-bugs(koreous),lice(psiraes),andotherdisgustinginsects, wingedandwingless.Thebestremedyagainsttheattacksofthese enemiesofreposeisgoodInsectPowder(PersianorHeating's), whichshouldbeplentifullysprinkledonthetraveller'sclothes andbedding.Thisisbetterprocuredbeforeleavinghome.Naph thalineisalsoveryefficacious,butitspungentodourisfoundob jectionablebymanytravellers.Theburningofinsect-powderor Venetian'SonniTranquilli'(obtainableatthechiefdruggists'in Athens)isofsomeusein repellingtheKounoupia,ormosquitoes, whichoverspreadthewholeof thelow-lyingdistrictsinsummer (June-Oct.).Theonlyeffectualpreventives,however,arethin muslincurtains(Kounoupiera)spreadoverthebed.Ammoniaor asolutionofcarbolicacid,ifappliedatonce,helpstoallaythe irritationcausedbythebites.—TheacceptanceofHospitality (Philoxenia)hasthisdrawback,thatconsiderationforthefeelings of hishostlimitstraveller the invariousways,andthisisincreased bythefactthatthemodernGreekhasgenerallyverylittleideaof thevalueoftime.Theonlyreturnthestrangercanmakeforhis receptionisagratuitytotheservants.Insmallhouses,however, wherethetravellerhasbeenreceivedwithoutthe formalityofin troduction,asumof4-6dr.isexpectedforthenight'slodging, while,ontheotherhand,thevisitormaytakehiseasealmostas freelyasataninn.IntheGreekConvents(seep.liii)thecon ditionsaresimilar,exceptthatfoodanddrinkareusuallyprovided unasked,andthattheexpectedcompensationisnottoogreat. Railways.Greecenowpossesses565M.ofrailway.Thefirst Greekline,, fromAthenstothePiraeus,wasopenedin1869;the othersdatesince18827RailwaysnowconnectAthensandCorinth (R.12),Corinth,Nauplia,andMyli(R.29),CorinthandPatras (R.28), AthensandKephisia(R.9e),andAthensandLaurion (R.9i).TheThessalianRailwaysaredescribedinRR.23,25. Finallythereare thenewlinesfromPatrastoPyrgosandOlympia (R.46),fromKryoneritoAgrinion(p.31),fromMylitoTripolitza (R.36),andfromKalamatatoDiavolitsi(pp.348,353).Linesare beingconstructedfromTripolitzatoDiavolitsi,fromjEgiontoKa- lavryta,andfromAthenstoThebesLamia and(the'LarissaLine'). Allthelinesareownedbycompanies.Ofthethreeclasses,the1st and2ndvarylittleincomfortandonly20percentinfare.The first-classcarriagesare,however,preferableonthewhole,especially xiv I. PRACTICALHINTS. whentheypossessanoutsideplatformfromwhichthescenerymay beviewedtoadvantage.Eachpassengerisentitledto66lbs.of luggagefree.Theluggageisbooked(fee101.)andaticketob tainedforit,withwhichthetravellerreclaimsitonarrivingat hisdestination.FortheGreekwordsforrailway,compartment,etc., seep.xxxix. ThosewhoarenotconversantwithmodernGreekshouldnot attempttotravelintheinteriorwithouta guide.Thebestand mostdetailedguide-bookcannot supplyMbplace.Themostcom fortablewayoftravellingiswithaCourierorDragoman.There areinAthensseveralthoroughlytrustworthymenofthisclass,who speakEnglish,French,orItalian.Inreturnfora fixedinclusive sumof40-60fr.perdayforeachtraveller,thecouriertakesupon himselftheentirecostofthejourney.Hisfunctionsbeginwhen thepartyleavesthehotelatAthensandendonitsreturnto Athensorarrivalatanyotherpointagreedupon.Hepaysall rail way,steamboat,orcarriagefares,hiresthesaddle-horsesandpack- horses,providesallmeals(includingwine,coffee,etc.),secures accommodationforthenight,andisgenerallyresponsibleforthe comfortofthetravellersunderhiscare.Onthelonger expeditions, andinallcaseswherethenighthastobespentinplace a without agoodXenodochion(p.xii),thecourierhastoprovideamattress andbeddingforeachmemberoftheparty; somecourierssupply camp-bedsteads.Largeparties,insimilarcircumstances,should stipulatefortheservicesofacook.Theroutetobefollowedand theplaceswherethe nightsaretobespentshouldbeagreedupon beforehand,withthehelpofthesuggestionsgivenatp.xxi.The couriersgenerallydislikeanylongerdelayenroutethanisnecessary asa restforthehorses,anditisthereforedesirabletomakeit distinctlyunderstoodthatthetravellerretainsperfectlibertyinthis respect,sofarasconsistentwiththegeneralarrangementsof the tour.Ifthetourisprolongedthroughthefaultofthetourist,he must,ofcourse,payfortheextratimespentuponit.Halfofthe sumagreeduponisgenerallypaidtothedragomaninadvance,to enablehimtopurchasethenecessarystores.Theotherhalfshould beretainedtotheendofthejourney,itsretentionsometimesact ingasa spurtotheinbornOrientalindolenceoftheGreek.The ownersofthecottagesandkhanswherethenightsarespentgener allylookforagratuityfromthetravellerinadditiontothesettle mentofthebillbythecourier. sIti scarcelyusualtohaveawrittenContractwiththecourier.We givehere,however,thetextofsuchacontractinEnglishandFrench, asitsprovisionswillinanycaseheofusetothetravellerasaguidein makinga verbalagreementCSymphonia1). 1.ThecourierN. N.bindshimselftoconductthetravellersA.B.,xin number,overthefollowingroute,startingfromAthens.(Thenamesofthe night-quartersandplacesasidefromtheusualroutearctobeinserted here.)Thecouriermaynotaddothertravellerstothepartyteilhoutthe consentofthesaidA.B. I. PRACTICALHINTS. 2. Thecourierundertakestodefrayalltheexpense*ofthejourneyfor transport,food,andlodging,andtopayallfeesandgratuities,leaving thetravellerfreefromallliabilityforclaimsofpaymentorreimbursement (Ifthetravellerissatisfiedwiththeconductoftheagogiatsandother attendants,heusually,inspiteoftheaboveclause,givesthemasmall gratuityattheendofthejourney.) 3. Thecourierundertakestoprovideeachtravellerwithagoodsaddle- horse(withanEnglishtoddleandaleathernbridle),andwithxmulesor horsestocarryhisluggage.Thetravellersartnottobeheldresponsiblefor anyinjurythehorsesmayreceivebyfallingorthelike,unlessitisclearly duetotherider'sfault.Thetravellersshallbeatlibertytomakedetours whilethepack-animalsfollowtheshortestroute. 4. Thedistancesbetweenx andy aretobeperformedbyrailway(by steamer),thetouristtravellingfirstclass;onroadswheredrivingispracti cablecarriagesaretobeprovided.Thecosteach in casetobeborneby (hecourier. 5. Thecourierundertakestoprovideeachtravellerwithacamp-bedstead withcleanmattresses,sheets,covers,andpillows.Themealsfurnishedbythe couriershallbeasfollows:breakfast,consistingofcoffeeortea,withbread andbutter;luncheon,withcoldmeat,eggs,cheese,andwine;dinner,supplied in theeveningonarrivalatthequartersforthenightandconsistingofx courses,withwineddiscretion.Thecourierisboundtoobtainthebest accommodationpossibleforpassingthenight.Whenthenightisspentata hotel,asinNaupliaorPatras,thecourierpaysthehotelbills. 6.Thecourierandhisservantsagreetotreatthetravellerswithalldue civilityandrespect.Incaseofabreachofthisagreement,thetravelleris entitledtodismissthecourieronthespot,payinghimuptothetimeofhis dismissalonly. 7. Thetravellersareentitledtochangetheirrouteatanytime,oncon ditionthatthenumberofdaysoriginallyagreeduponisnotdiminished. Whenthenumberofdaysis,however,diminishedinthisway,thecourier receivesasumofxfr.foreachdaysoomitted.(Whenthetravellerdoes notmeantoreturntoAthens,hut wishestoendhistouratPatras,Kata- kolon,orsomeothertown,itshouldheexpresslyagreedthatthe courier receivesnoallowanceforhisownreturntoAthens.) 8. Thecourierreceivesfromeachtravellerxfr.perday,orinally fr.,onehalftobepaidinadvance,theotherhalfattheendofthetour. Duringthejourneythecourierisnotentitledtodemandanymoneyfro- thetraveller. n9.I caseofanydispute,bothpartiesagreetosubmittothedecisionof thenearestBritishconsulorvice-consul(atthePiraeus,Patras,Corfu,etc.). Contrat.—Entrelesvoyageurs....d'unepartetlecourier.... d'autrepart,a4i€passe*lecontrateuivant. 1.e L couriers^bligeenverscesvoyageursalesconduired'Athenes a . .., par....Sansleconsenteraentdesvoyageurs,ilestde'fenduan courierd'enemmenerd'autrespourlememeparcours. 2. Surtoutceparcours,lecourierauraasoncomptetouslesfraia devoyage,telsquefraisdetransport,denourriture,delogement,tous lespourboires,desortequelevoyageurn'estpasimportunepardesexi gencesonreclamations. 3.e L couriers'engagea fournira chaquevoyageurun boncheval (avecselleanglaiseetrenesencuir),ainsique. . muletsouchevaux vigoureuxpourtransporterlesbagages.Lesvoyageursnesontrespon- eablesd'aucundommagearrive"auxanimaux,soitquilarriveaces der- niersonechuteoutoutautreaccident,sansqu'ily aitdelafautedes cavaliers.lisontledroitdefaireselonleurbonplaisirunddtour,pen dantquelesbetesdesommeprennentlaroutelapluscourte. 4.Lesvoyagesd'Atbenesa serontfaitsaumoyenduchemin defer(desbateauxavapeur),lesvoyageursallantenpremiereclasse;les routescarrossablesserontparcouruesenvoiture.Touscesfraisdetrans porte5.sontL commecourierlesfourniraautresunalalitchargecompletdncourier.pourchaquevoyageur,avec deamatelats,descouvertures,desdraps,etdeacoussinspropres.IIaer xvi I. PRACTICALHINTS. viraauxvoyageursnnpremierdejeuner,avantledepart(cafe',thi,avec dupain);unseconddejeuner,enroute(metsfroids;desceufs,duroti, dupoulet,dufromage),et lesoirundinerde. . plats,vindiscretion. a Lecouriers'engagealogerlesvoyageursaussiconvenablementquepos- pible.S'ilyade bonshotels,parex.aNauplie,aPatras,onydes- cendraauxfraisducourier. 6.e L courierseconduiratoujoursconvenablementpendantlevoyage, sinonlecontratserarompu.Lesvoyageursnepaieront,danscedernier cas,leshonorairesci-dessousquepourlesjoursecoulds. 7. Lesvoyageurspourrontchangerd'itinerairependantlevoyage. Danslecasoulenombredejoursfixe"enseraitdiminue',lecourieraura Tarticleledroitlera uneneseindemnityterminepasde..Athenes, afr.parjour.maisa(SiPatras,ritine"raireaKatakolofixe"dansetc., lecouriern'aurapasdroitauneindemnityderetour.) 8.e L courierrecevrapoursesservices. . francsparjour.Lamoitid delasommeentiereluiseraremiseavantledepart,Tautremoitie1seule- mentalafindutrajet; iln'apasledroitdedemanderdel'argentenroute. n9.E casdedifferend,touslespartissesoumettentaladecisiondu consulouvice-consulanglaisduPiree,dePatras,etc. Lessexactingtravellers,especiallythosewhoareyoungand vigorous,maydispensewiththeexpensiveluxuryofa courierand contentthemselvesinsteadwiththeservicesofanAgogiates(Ayoj- fidx?]i■ pron.Agoy&tis),orordinaryhorse-boy.Theywillthus diminishtheexpensebyone-halfandatthesametimemuch be moreindependent.Theyshould,however,havesomeknowledge ofthemodernGreeklanguageandmustbepreparedtoputup withthewantofmanycomfortsandconvenienceswhichtheordi naryEuropeanregardsasalmostnecessariesoflife.Theagogiat, exceptperhapsinCentralGreece,generallyknowsthewayaswell as adragoman,andlikehimiindsquartersforthenight.Healso takeschargeofthetraveller'sbaggage,bringingifnecessaryan extrasumpter-animalforthispurpose,andcarriestheprovisions broughtbythetravellers.Theselastwillconsistofsalt,preserved meats,sausages,extractofmeat, maccaroni,andsimilararticles, whilepoultry,eggs,andbreadwillbeobtainedenroute;some simpleeatingandcookingutensilsshouldalsobeprovided. Inconcludingtheagreement(Symphonia),whichisbestdone ina cafe-overa cupofcoffee,thetravellershouldpreserveanair ofindifferenceandshouldavoidallindicationsofhurry.Agogiats do[notalwaysconsenttothetermsgiveninthisHandbook; and duringtheploughingseasonandharvestandonSundaysinthe townspricesaregenerallyraised. The "chargefora horseis8-10dr.a dayinthePeloponnesus. 5-8dr.inCentral Greece,includingthekeepoftheanimal-itself andoftheagogiat.Itmustalsobemadeclearthatnocompen sationistobemadetotheagogiatforhisreturn-journeyinthe eventofthetravellerendinghistouratadistancefromtheago- giat'shome.Inspiteoftheabovestipulations,mosttravellerspay themodestbillsforthefoodoftheagogiatinaddition.Thehorses aregenerallydocile,sure-footed,andpossessedofgreatpowersof endurance.Theyarenotasaruleaccustomedtoanyothergait thanarapidwalk,buttheyshowasurprisingcapacityforclimb I. PRACTICALHINTS. ingsteepmountain-paths.Thesaddleconsistsofawoodenframe (Samari)coveredwithrugs(Roucha)whichtheagogiatishound toproduce;thestirrups(Seala)consistofnoosesInrope a ; anda ropeoftentakestheplaceofleathernhridle-reins.Mosttravellers soongetusedtothisriding-gear,andmany,especiallyforlong joameys,preferthesamaritothepoorspecimenofanEnglish saddle(sella)whichisoftentheonlysubstitute.Sittingsideways inthesamari,asthenativesoftendo,isrecommendedforachange, andisquiteeasywithawalkinghorse.Luggageismuchmore easilytransportedonanativesaddlethanon anEnglishone. Shortexcursions,onwhichthetravellerreturnstothestart ing-pointin2-3days,shouldbemadewiththesameagogiat, as bettertermsmaythenbemadeforthehireofthehorses.Inlonger journeys,however,itisbettertochangetheagogiatevery2-3days, whichcanbedoneonlyatplacesofsomesize,astheagogiatsare seldomcompetentguides exceptinthevicinityoftheirhomes. Thispracticealsoobviatesthenecessityofpayingfordaysofrest, whilethefrequentchangeofhorsesmakesforcedmarches,should suchbedesirable,morepracticable. DistancesarestatedinthisHandbookintermsofthetimetakento traversethemonhorseback,exceptwhereitisotherwisenoted(comp. p.vi).PedestrianExpeditionsof adayormorearepracticallyimpos sible,owingtotheclimate,thedifficultyofobtainingfoodandshelter, andthebadnessoftheroads.Butshorterexcursionsonfoot,especially intheneighbourhoodofAthens,maybeveryconvenientlymade.Tra vellersshouldneverquitthemainroadswithoutagaide,partlyonaccount ofthesavagedogs(seexviii). p. Equipment.ForAthens,Corfu,andallplacesreachedby railway,thetravellerinGreeceneednotmakeanyotherprepara tionsthanforatourinItaly.Fortoursintheinteriorheshould providehimselfwithasuitofgreytweed,suchasisusedbysports menathome,andanovercoatofsomemoderatelythickorwater proofmaterial.Thetailorshouldbeinstructedtoseethattheseams aresewnwithparticularcareandthatthebuttonsaTewellfastened on,asrepairsareexpensivecause andgreatdelay.Riding-breeches arehighlydesirable;butifordinarytrousersareworn,buttonsfor riding-strapsshouldnotbeforgotten.Woollenunderclothingisne cessaryasapreventiveofchills(comp.p.xxviii),anditisprudent towearawoollenvestatnight.Flannelshirtsareinmanyrespects moreconvenientthanlinenones,andtheypracticallydiminishthe bulkthe ofluggage.Forthetransportofthelatteronhorseback, waterproofbagsorwalletsaremuchmoreconvenientthantrunksor hardleatherportmanteaux.ThebootssSouldbestrongandable toresistthefrictionofrockymountain-pathsandminedmasonry. Thehatshouldhaveabrim wideto enoughaffordsomeshadefrom thesun,anda'puggaree'tiedroundit(obtainableinAthens)will alsobefoundacceptable.Smoke-colouredspectaclesbe will found agreatrelieftotheeyes,thoughtheirusefeelsalittlestrangeat Bakdkxek'sGreece.2ndEdit. b zviii I. PRACTICALHINTS. first.TheymaybepurchasedfromtheItalianopticianLabarbera, IntheRued'Hermes,andinseveralothershopsinAthens,butmay beobtainedmorecheaplyinEnglandorItaly. Thetravellerintheinteriorshouldalsohaveatravellingflask anddrinkingcup,aknifelargeenoughtobeusedineatingifne cessary,afork,candlesforeveninguse,agood-sizedrug,andagood compass.Astoutcaneorlongriding-whipwillsometimesbe found usefulinrepellingthevillageandshepherds'dogs,thoughstone- throwingisperhapsstillmoreeffective.Agoodcamp-bedforlong journeysisthe'litde campagne'(25lbs.inweight),usedbyFrench officersandtobeobtainedatParis(Avenuedel'Opera)for46fr. —ThelargenativewoodenflaskisknowninGreeceatlTzitza'. TopographicalTerms.ThefollowingaresomeofthecommonestGreek topographicalandothertermsoccurringinthetext. ErimoklUi)ruinedchapel. Pdtamo,river(diminutive,Potdmi). Hdgiot (fem.hagia,pi.hagti),saint.Revma, dry, deep-sunkenriver- Kavo(officiallyAkrotdrion),cape. bed. Kalyvia,huts,hamlet. Skdla,1.landing-placeorquay(Ital- Kephalart,copiousspringorsource.ian_. (f"ada),VTm_iTrinity..» Pantgyrit(panfgiris),church-festivalY°un?

-•ou»0imountain. of r aeligiousandsocialcharacter, spring. liketheBreton'Pardons'. below'.LoweJ- Kgdii(pigadi),well. SpinaorApano,above,TJpper- Platla(itXaTsttt),square,theItalianMegdlo,great. piazza. Afiird,small. b.Steamboats. Few travellersfromEnglandtoGreecetakeshipbeforereach ingBrindisi,Marseilles,Naples,orTriestebelow), (seebutthose whoenjoyalongsea-voyagemayreaohtheirdestinationbysteamers sailingdirectfromLiverpooltoSyra(p.3)orPatras(p.28). Thevessel"oftheCunardCo.(8WaterSt.,Liverpool,or28 PallMall,London,S.W.)leaveLiverpooleverythreeweeks,those aftheAfossLine(31JamesSt.,Liverpool)every16days,forSyra, takingaboutafortnighttothevoyage(cabin-fare12-20J.).—The through-faresfromLondontoAthensviaBrindisiareabout16i. 48.or112.168.,viaMarseillesabout151.2s.; viaParisandBrin disibythePeninsularandOrientalexpress,about20J.138.(comp. p. xi). CommunicationbetweenGreeceandtheItalianports,Marseilles, andTrieste,ismaintainedchieflybytheMessageriesMaritimesde France(Rue Vignon1,Paris),theCompagnieFralssinet(Placede laBourse6,Marseilles),theNavigazionegenerateitaliana(Florio- Bubattino,Rome),andtheAustrianLloyd(LloydAustro-Vngarico, Trieste).Thevesselsof theMessageriesaregenerallysomewhat I. PRACTICALHINTS. xix more comfortableandlesscrowdedthanthoseoftheothercom panies,but,ofcourse,eachcompanypossessesvesselsofvarying merit.ThemostimportantroutesaregiveninRR.1and2of the Handbook,andmayalsobefound,withtheircontinuationtoSmyrna, Constantinople,etc.,inBradshaw'sContinentalRailwayGuide (2s.)andothertime-tables.Detailswillbefoundinthe'Livret dltine'raire','Itinerario',or'AuskunftiiberdenPassagierdienst', whichmaybeobtainedfromtheabove-namedcompaniesappli on cationbyletterorotherwise.—Theopeningof theCanalof. Corinth(p.236)hasnoinfluenceontheserviceoftheFrench steamersandoftheItalianvesselssailingviaMessinatothePirseus, astheabridgmentof90-100M.fortheselinesismorethancom pensatedbythedrawbacksofthemoreintricatejourney."With regardtotheserviceofthelinesstartingfromBrindisi,notime tableswerepublisheddownto Oct.,1893. sFoodi includedinthefirst-classandsecond-classfaresofallthese companies,exceptonthevoyagefromCorfutoCorinthanda fewother Lloydroutes.(Itisnot,however,providedgratisduringaccidentalde laythroughquarantineorotherunforeseencauses.)Earlyinthemorn ingcoffeeisprovided.Dtjeuneralafourchette,servedat9 or10,consists of3-4courses.Dinnerisasimilarrepastbetween5and6o'clock.First- classpassengersalsohaveteaat9o'clock.Table-wineisnotchargedfor. Fees. ThestewardexpectsVa-lfr.foreachdayofthevoyage,but moreifthe passengergivenunusual has trouble. Tickets(payableingold)shouldbepurchasedbythetravellerinperson attheofficeofthecompany.Return-tickets,usuallyavailableforthree months,areissuedata reductionpercent, of 10onthepassage-money,but notonthecostoffood;thesavingwillappearscarcelyimportantenough tomosttravellersbeworth to theriskofbookingsolongbeforehand. Familiesofnotfewerthanthreepersonsalsoobtaina reductiononthe passage-money.Gentlemenmayalwaystravelquitecomfortablysecond- class,thoughwhenladiesareofthepartyitisofcourseadvisableto travelfirst-class.Bothfirst-classandsecond-classpassengershavefree accesstoeverypartthe ofdeck.Thefoodisaboutthesameinqualityfor bothclasses,butissomewhatlessabundantforsecond-classpassengers. Luggage.First-classpassengersareallowed70-100kilogrammes(156- 2201bs.Engl.)ofluggagefree,second-class40-60kilogrammes(88-1821bs.). Embarkation.Passengersshouldon beboardsometimebeforethe advertisedhourofstarting.InTriesteandgenerallyinBrindissialsothe vesselsaremooredtothequay.IntheGreekharbourssmallboatsare necessarytoconveythe passengerandhisluggagetothesteamer.The charge(nofixedtariff)isusually1dr.,withluggage1V2-2dr.,bntadistinct agreementshouldalwaysbemadeinadvance.Onarrivalatthevessel paymentshouldnotbemadeuntilthetravellerwithallhisluggageis depositedondeck.—Thetravellergivesuphisticketonboardtoanoffi cialorthestewardandreceivesthenumberofhisberth.Abagmaybe takenintothecabin,butallboxeshavetobedepositedinthehold.The travellershouldtakecaretoseethatallhisboxesareproperlylabelled. Language.. ItalianisspokenonalltheItalianandAustrianvessels, Frenchthe onFrenchvessels. The GreekSteamboatCompanies,exceptline onetoMarseilles (p.1)andanothertoTrieste(p.4), confinethemselvestothe coastsandislandsofGreece.SomeofthenewvesselsofthePan- helleniccompanyarescarcelyinferiortotheste'amersofthecom paniesabovementioned.Thefoodonboardresemblesthatofthe b* XX I. PRACTICALHINTS. Italian steamers,variedbyafewGreekpeculiarities(wine,see p. iv); it isnotincludedinthefarebutischargedforaccording toaprintedtariff(1stclass6dr.perday).Thesmallercoasting- steamersare,however,usuallyverypoorlyappointed,andthe cahinsoftenswarmwithvermin.Thewantoforderonalmostall theGreeksteamersisparticularlydisagreeable.Inspiteoftho nominalprohibition,thesteeragepassengers,whoareoftenmore picturesqueata distancethanagreeableatclosequarters,occasio nallyinvadetheafter-deck,andthenoticeforbiddingsmoking inthesaloon(dmaYopeusTcutoxdnrvisfia)issometimesmoreho nouredinthebreachthanintheobservance.Thelanguageused onboardisGreek,butItalianisverygenerallyunderstood.The fares,whicharefixedbygovernment,arepayableinpaper-money. Tioketsshouldbetakenatthesteamboat-offices,notonboardthe steamers. ThechiefGreekCompaniesare:1.thePanheUenios; 2.the GoudiSteamboatCompany;3.theSerpieriSteamboatCo.The formerHellenicCompanyhassuspendeditssailings.—Asthese steamers,withtheexceptionofthoseplyingtoTriesteandBrindisi, arenotnotioedintheordinarytime-tablesofW.Europe,andas nocompleteGreekrailwayandsteamboatguideispublished, in tendingpassengersmustseekinformationattheSteamboat-Offices attheportofembarkation.Thelatestbillsofthevariouscom paniesarenowgenerallyexhibitedinthelarger hotelsinAthens, andthenewspapersusuallypublishinformationas tosteamers startingfromthePirseus.Butaschangesfrequentlytakeplace,the travellershouldneveromittomakepersonalenquiriesevenat Athens.Thevesselsarefrequentlylate,andsometimesarrivebe foretheregularhour. AsurveyofthemostimportantGreeksteamboatlinesisgiven ontheadjoiningyellowpaper.TheportscalledatbytheGreek steamersareunderlinedinredinthelargemapofGreeceinthe pocketattheendof theHandbook.

c.Season.PlanofTour.PublicSecurity. The choiceofthe properis seasonofthegreatestimportancein determiningthesuccessofavisittoGreece.Atourintheinterior shouldbeattemptedneitherintherainymonthsofwinter(fromthe beginningormiddleofNovembertothebeginningormiddleof March;comp.p.xxvii)norinthehotmonthsofsummer(middle ofJunetobeginningofSeptember),whentheevilsmentionedat p.xiiiareattheirheight.Thebestseasonforsuchajourney iseitherspring(endofMarchtoendofMayorbeginningofJune) orautumn(Sept.(Oct.,andsometimesthefirsthalfofNov.). Athens,wheremosttouristsnaturallymaketheirfirstacquaintance withGreeklifeandhabits,maybeconvenientlyvisitedinDe

Surveyf o theGreekSteamboatLines.

I. FanheUeniosCompany. riav£XX-r)Vtocdr\f.oT:Xri%a; —offices;atAthensintheRuedu Stide,oppositetheHouseofDeputies;atthePiraeusinthePlace d'Apollon(W.side),neartheharbour. a. FelononnesianLine(onceweeklyinbothdirections):fromthe Pi raeusinGythfion(Sparta)15hrs. in; thencetoKalamata7hrs.;thenceto Katako/on(Olympia)lOi/sbra.; thencetoZdkynthos(Zante)2>/abra.;thence toMwlonghibrs.; thencetoPatrashrs. 2 b.PatrasandIonianIslandsLine(onceweeklyinbothdirections): fromPaIrat toZdkynthos(Zante)0V4hra.;thencetoKephal&nia(Cepha- Icnia)4hra.;thencetoKtrkyra(Corfu)2hrs. 6-CycladeoLine(onceweeklyinbothdirections)* fromthePiraeus toTmosyi/*hra.; thencetoSyros(Syra)ltyjhr.; thencetoNoras3V«hra.; thencetoThera(Santorini)5hrs. d.EuboeaandYoloLines(eachoneoweeklyinbothdirections), f. FromthePiraeustoLaurion3*/*bra.; thencetoAlheri4»/ghrs.; thence toChalkit2*/4hrs.;thencetohimne2»/»hrs.;thencetoAtrttant*l*/shr-; thencetotitylida4hra.;thencetoOreods3hrs.;thencetoi'olo3bra.— 2.FromthePiraeustoLaurion3s/*bra.;thencetoChalkis&fihr-.; thence toStylida61/2hrs.;thencetoYolo5*/?hra.Intheoppositedirection,the steamersofthe1stlinesaildirectlyfromChalkistoLaurion,andthose ofthe2ndlinecallatAliverl. e.AcarnanianLine(onceweeklyinbothdirections):fromP«trasto Mnoionghi2hre.;thencetoA*tak6s'&f\hrs.;thencetoKhali(Ithaka) lirs.;thencetoLevkds(8.Maura)4Vshra.;thencetoPrieeta1hr.; thence toSaiagora1*/*hr.; thencetoVotvUalk thencetoKararassard*J hrs.;thencetoMeuidit'/ahr.; thencetoPr&peza1XUhrs.; thencetoLew- idst hr.;thencetoKtrkyra(Corfu)hrs.(Astakdsisnottouchedin thereturnrente). f.CretanLine(onceweeklyInbothdirection?):fromthePiraeusto Riphncs9 hrs.;thencetoMilos(Milos)23/ihrs.;thencetoKhanidand RMtpmonIntheIslandofCrete. .■ g ConatmtinoplBLine(onceweeklyInboihdirections):fromthe KrautstoConstantinoplein4"hrs. h.TwoAsiaMinorLines(eachonceweeklyinbothdirections,with Qltern.-iftn?station?);fromthePiraeusviaChiostoSmyrna'J5hrs.;thence Constantinople23hra.;everyfortnightproceedingthenceintotheUlaeL DeitoTrapezuntnndBatum. LHareeillesLine(everyfortnightboth indirections):fromthePi- toMarseillesinbdays. k. TriesteLine(everyfortnightinbothdirections):fromthePiraeus QyVitioni+iwto)15hrs.;thencetoIial«malaT>/4br*.;thencetoKatdkolon lymiiaj10»2hrs.;fchenc«patras to ~ilUbrs.;thencetoKtrkyra(Corfu) j/tbra.1thencetoTrieste21/*days(G\theionisnottouchedintheopposite reetion).AftertheopeningotthenavigationthroughtheCanalofCorinth, esteambatjourneyfridthePiraeust>Patraswillrequireabouti0-12hrs.^^Khnri

H.GoudiCompany. Offices:at Athens,RueduStade,oppositeHouse theofDe puties;atthePiraeusinthePlaced'Apollon(N.side),nearthe harbour. a.PeloponnesianXin.es(eachonceweeklyinbothdirections).1.From thePiraeustoHydra,Spetsia,Leonidi,Gytheion,Kalamata,Nesion, Kordne, Pylos,Mdralhos,Hag.h'yriaki,Kyparissia,Katakolon,Zante,KylUne*Meso- longhi,Patras.—2.FromthePiraeustoAegina(insummerMethand)^ Poros,Hydra,Spetsia,GytheiontKalamata. b. ArgolicLine(fourtimesweeklyinbothdirections):fromthe PiraeustoAegina,Methana,Poros,Hydra,Spetsia,Cheli(resp.Astros), Nauplia. c. EuboeaandVoloLine(thriceweeklyinbothdirections):fromthe PiraeustoLaurion,Aliviri,Chalkis(Aedepsosinsummer),Stylida,Volo-A callingtwiceweeklyatLimn9andonceatOreous. d.Cyclades(twice Lineweeklyinbothdirections):fromthePiraeus toSyroxandTenos. OfficeatthePiraeus m.inStheerpieriPlaceCompany. d'Apollon.

From thePiraeusonSun.,Tues.andThurs.toAegina,Methana,Poros, Hydra,Spetsia,Cheli,Leonidi,Astros,andNauplia;returningfromNauplia onMon.,Wed.andSat.bythesamestationstothePiraeus.Faresfrom thePiraeus:toAegina6dr.80,3dr.90I.;MethanaorPoros6dr.75, 4dr.851.;Nauplia11dr.45,8dr.651. Ticketsmaybetakenonboard lhesteamers. I. PRACTICALHINTS. xxi comber andJanuary,asrainydayscanbopleasantlyspentInits collectionsofantiquities.ThestayAthens in isineverywaythe finestpartofavisittoGreece.TohavevisitedtheAcropolisand theTheseion,tohavelingeredontheplainofMarathonandthe bayofSalamiswillalwaysremainamongthemostcherishedre miniscencesoftravellerswhotake.anyinterestwhateverinclassical antiquity.Otherpointswhichshouldon noaccountbeoverlooked areOlympia,nowfreedfromtherubbish-depositsofcenturies,My cenaeandTiryns,withtheirwealthofmythicalassociation,and thesplendidviewfromtheAero-Corinth.Loversofnaturewill findmuchofinterestandbeautyinthecharacteristiccoast-scenery andinthewell-tilledplainsandverdantwood-cladmountainsof theW.partofthePeloponnesus,where,besidesOlympia,theTemple ofBassaeandthestupendousfortificationsofMesseneaddtothe attractionsofvisit. a Travellingintheinterioris,however,recom mendedtothosealonewhoseenjoymentwillnotbe impairedby theunavoidableprivationsandexertionsdescribedatpp.xii,xiii.At thesametimeitmayberemarkedthatmanyatraveller,whomakes, nopretentiontoclassiclorebutisweariedoftheartificialandover- civilisedsidemodern of hotelsandmeansoflocomotion,mayfind anextraordinarycharminwanderingthroughthesebyewaysof travel,inwhichunsophisticatednatureisglorifiedbysoheroica background.Suchatourshouldbemade, however, withoneor twocompanions,notonlyforeconomybuttoavoidthefeeling ofoppressivelonelinesswhicheasilyovercomesthesolitarystranger whoisnotfamiliarwiththelanguageandmannersofthepeople. A day'sjourney,asarule,shouldnotexceed7-8hrs.The distancesstatedintheHandbookarecalculatedsomewhatclosely, anditmayperhapsbeadvisableinmosteasestoleaveamarginfor contingencies.Themoretimeisallowedforcomfortableenjoyment andstudy,themorerewardedwillthetravellerfeelfortheexpense andexertionsofthejourney. A month'svisittoAthensandthePeloponnesusmaybo dividedasfollows: — Athens anditsEnvirons,includingthePiraeus,theBay ofSalamis,Eleusis,Phyle,Marathon,Sunion,anAJEginaDays (RR., 8 9,10) 10-12 From AthenstoCorinthandAcro-Corinth(RR.12,27). 1 Nauplia,Argos,Tiryns,Mycenae,Epidauros(RR. 29-32)3 FromNaupliatoTripolitm(R.35) */2 From TripolitzatoSparta(R.36) l'/2 Sparta andMistra(R.37) 1 ThroughtheLangadatoKalamdta(R.37) 1 From KalamatatoPhigalCaviaMessene(R.48)....2 FromPhigalfatoAndrttsaenaviatheTempleofBassae (R. 43) 1 AndrftssnatoOlympia(R.42) 1 xxii I. PRACTICALHINTS. Olympia(B.47) 1-2 FromOlympiatoPatron(R.46) 1 From PatiastoCorfii(R.7) 1 CorfhR. ( 3) 2-3 27-31 days. TravellerswithlimitedtimemayproceedfromTripolitzadirect toOlympiaviaMegalopolis,Karylaena,andAndrftsaena,making adigressiontoBassae(RR.39, 42, 43). AvisittoIthaka(R.6),whichismademostconvenientlyfrom Patras,takesabout3days. The chiefpointsinCentralGreeceThessalt and mayhe visitedin21/2weeksasfollows: — Days FromAthenstoDelphiviaCorinth(R.12,13)....ltyg R.Delphi( 13) >/a FromDelphitoLivadidvi&Chaeronea(R.14) 1 FromLivadUtoOrchomenos(R.19)anddirecttoKou- toumoula(p.166) 1 ViaHelicon,Leuktra,andPlataea,toThebes(R.15b).. 2 FromThebestoMartinoviaKarditza(R.18) 2 FromMartinotoThermopylaeandLamia(RR.18,20). 2 FromLamiatoStyUdaandVolo(RR.20,22) 1 From LarissaVolototoLarissa.TrtkkalaValeandoftheTempe.Meteora(R.Convents,23) return2 ingtoVolo(R.25) 3 From VolotothePiraeus(R.22) ■ ■ ■ . 1 17 days. Thosewhohaveonlyabout10daysinalltospendinGreece, e.g.onthewaytoorfromtheEast,shoulddevote6daystoAthens anditsenvirons(thePiraeus,BayofSalamis,Sunion,andPentelikon orEleusis)andtherestofthetimetoanexcursiontothePelo ponnesus(Aero-Corinth,Nauplia,Tiryns,Argos,Mycenae,Patras, andperhaps Olympia). ThestateofPublicSafetyinGreeceisatpresentallthatcan bedesired.Sincetheboldactsofbrigandagein1870(p.124), whenseveralEnglishtravellerswerethevictims,theGreekgovern menthasexerteditselfstrenuouslytoextirpatethisnationalevil; andonlyafewisolatedcaseshaveoccurredthe nearTurkishfrontier. ThePeloponnesushasforyearsbeenconsideredperfectlysafe. d. RestaurantsandCafes.Wine.Tobacco. Travellers wholimittheirexcursiontoAthensandlodgeinthe largerhotels therewillhavelittleneedoropportunitytomakeac quaintancewiththeGreekRestaurants(iaxiaxopia,estiaUSria),as allthemealsforthedayareincludedinthehotel-chargefor'pen sion'.Those,however,whofrequenthotelsofthesecondclassin Athens,orwhovisitothertowns,mayfindthe followinglistofthe I. PRACTICALHINTS. xxiii mostcommonGreekdishesuseful.Healsaregenerallyeatenitla carte(dinnersupper 11-2,6-8).Somerestaurantscloseat9p.m. InthelargerAthenianrestaurantsthecuisineishalfFrench. Gratuitiesarenotnecessaryhutaregraduallybecomingcustomary. ThewaiteTisaddressedasiratSi(paedf,'garcon').TheGreekfor portionispiepiSa(merida). ooXma(soupa),soup. xouvouittSia(kounoupfdia),cau ^ou(i6(zoum.6),broth. liflower. uouTia^opxdpia(soupachortdria),xpO(j.puj&t(krommtdi),onions. vegetable soup('Julienne'),xoXoxofti(kolokiihi),cucumber. sourtaaufoX4(AO>o(soupaavgoli- otfYO'jp'fanpouri),gherkin. mono),soupwitheggandTOftdxe? (tomdtes),tomatoes. lemon. TOfxoJTEiy£!ai<3to14(tonusesyemi- odXtta(saltsa),sauce. sUsoryomisUs),stuffedto p.axturkey.Vitzeris),Gruyerecheese. pmexaTja(bekdtza),snipe. tupi poxtpiSp,Roquefortcheese. Xijva(china),goose. touXoo (AO-nipi (touloumotfri), rami (pap(),duck. goat's-milkcheese. idptfpsiiri,),fish.! TtoM-fja(poudfnga),pudding. 7dpipafio-wlifpodrimayonnes),fX6xiO|j.a(glfkisma),sweets, ushmayonnaise. pastry. arptSia (strfdiaj,oysters. Piox6to (viskdto),biscuit. yajiidpi(chavidri),caviare;Xe-yak$d (chalvd),aTurkishsweet [i<5vi('Jemo'ni;,lemon. meatmadeofsesameandho "aTotTaii(patdtaes),potatoes.ney(piXi); othersweetmeats Yoprdpia(chortdria)or arecalledbaklavd,galato- Xaya^a ftacftanaj,vegetables.pouriko, louko&mia(comp. piperi),pepper, jioodvixa(roddnika),peaches.y^1*(fjdla),milk, pepixoxa(verflcoka),apricots.vep6(nerd),water:xpuovepo Afiiyhaka.(amfgdala),almonds.(krtonerd),freshwater, ouxa(sfka),flgs. if""!*'(psomt),bread. Wine (xpaaf, krassi;olvosisalsousedinAthensonlabelsand inwine-lists;dajipo,dtpro,white,p.aupo,mdvro,red,xoxxtvo, kokkino,lightred).TheordinarywineofGreece,partlytoincrease itskeepingpowerandpartlyfromacuriousfreaktaste of(p.xliv), isimpregnatedwithresin,whichatfirstmakesitveryunpalatable tostrangers.Thisflavourisparticularlystronginthe'Retsinat'of Attica(xpaotpexotvaTo,krassirettindtd),whichforeignersrarely learntoappreciate(see,however,p.xxviii).InthewineofthePelo ponnesus,whichisalsoinotherrespectssuperiortothatAttica, of theresinous'bouquet'ismuchlessstrongandafterafewdays scarcely interfereswiththeenjoymentoftheliquor.AnOkd(about 1^5quart)ofordinarywinecosts60-801.inAthens,andsomewhat lessinotherpartsofthecountry.Theusualorderatarestaurant iseitherpiio-rj6x5(misiokd,l/g°ka)01£xoct68pdp.ioc(ekatddrd- mia,100dramia='/ioka).Sometimes,especiallyintaverns,the wineissuppliednotbymeasurebutbytheglass(generallyonly halffull): 2vaxpaaiorxpaadxi(diminutive), enakrassforkras- sdki,61.(inAthenssometimes101.).Atthechiefhotelsresi nouswineisnotsuppliedexceptonspecialapplication. The ordinarybeverageofforeignersinAthens,in Corfu,on boardtheGreeksteamers,etc.,istheunresinedredwinecalled Kephisia('boutflya'orbottle1 dr.,'misiboutilya't/jdr.),which hasasomewhatinsipidandweakflavour.Bettervarietiesofred andwhitewineareSdlonos,Petzdle,Theophildtou,andMoraCtou(so namedaftertheownersofthevineyards),whichcostaboutIV2&■ abottle,andthewineoftheAchaiaCo.(p.30);mostofthem, however,likethefinewinesnamedatp.xliv,aretoolleryfor regularuse.Frenchwines(4-10fr.perbottle)are,ofcourse, obtainableatAthens,Corfu,etc. Cafes(xatpeveia,kafenfa)ofallkindsaboundinGreece,from thewretchedwoodenshedof thecountry-villageuptotheAthenian establishmentshandsomelyfittedupintheItalianstyle.Thecoffee (Evaxacpe,enakafe,a cupofcoffee; 660xotpeSe;,diokafedes, twocupsofcoffee)isgenerallygood, butit isinvariablyserved intheOrientalmanner,i.e.Insmallcupswiththegrounds.As I. PRACTICALHINTS. \xv a raleitisalreadysweetened(xaOtranto;2.viaZanteandTrieste;3.viaLarissa;4.viaSyra andOdessa(toRussia);5.toTurkeyviaCfttosandConstan tinople(in additiontothefirstthreelines);6.toCrete,viaSyra. Thepricesvaryonthedifferentlines.Thefollowingrateperword (nowordtohavemorethan16letters)ischargedfortelegrams sentfromtheGreekmainlandbythefirstthreelines: GreatBritain 911.,France67,Germany65'/2iSwitzerland61,Austriaand Hungary55l/2>Denmark,Holland,andBelgium71 Russia 85ty21- ToRussiaviaSyraandOdessaeachwordcosts98Y21-; to TurkeyviaLarissaandKaterina33,viaChios45721.; toCrete (alsotoLemnos,Tenedos,Samos,Rhodes,andtheotherislands oftheAsiaticArchipelago)viaSyra45!/21. TotheUnitedStates eachwordcostsfromldr.67to2dr.37t/2l.,accordingtolocality; toCanada,NovaScotia,orNewfoundland,1dr.571.—Telegrams fromanyoftheislandscost4-4l/2l.perwordmore. g. Climate.Health. sIti nowconsideredasfairlyestablishedthat theclimaticand atmosphericconditionsofGreecehaveremainedthewhole on un alteredsincetheearliesthistoricalperiod.Thedestructionofthe forestsinmanyplaceshas,however,undoubtedlyinfluencedthe amountof therainfallandhencehasmodifiedthestateof agriculture. Thefactsonwhichthestatementsmadebelowarefounded werecommunicatedbythelateDr.JuliusSchmidt(d.1884),Di rectoroftheObservatoryatAthens. The followingtable,basedonobservationsextendingovertenyears, showsthe annualnumberofRainyDaysandtheRainfallatAthens.The rainfallexpressed is inlines(Parismeasure; 5linesEnglish=5^2Paris lines,nearly). Days. Rainfall. Davs.Rainfall. January18 25.2 July 2' 4.2 MarchAprilFebruaryMay 111896 16.017.38.87.9 NovemberAugustSeptemberOctober13493 22.139.46.33.7

June 4 68 December_13 26.9 Totals5 9 183.6 Sometimesin thewetseason18-22linesof rainfallin24hrs.and, veryexceptionally,evenmore. TheMeanBarometricalHeightatAthens,reducedtozero,is334'/2 Parislines.TheMeanAnnualTemperature,determinedfromsixteenyears' observation,is75.75°Fahr.;theabsolutemaximumwas106°,theabsolute minimum14°Fahr. Of Thunder-Storms,thethunderofwhichisheardatAthens,about xxviii I. PRACTICALHINTS. 20occurannually.Anaverageof threesuchstormsoccurinOctoberand November,inJune, twoJuly,September,andDecember,and oneineach oftheremainingmonths. ObservationsextendingoversixteenyearsshowthattheS.W.and N.E.Windsarethemostprevalent,theformerfromApriltoJune,tbe latterfromJulytoSeptember. A ClearSkyinthestrictestsenseoftheterm,whenthesky,even tothetelescope,appearsabsolutely"cloudlessbothbyday andnight,is ofrareoccurrenceeveninGreece.Yearswiththreeorfourdaysofthis characterhavebeennoted,andthreeorfouryearshavepassedwithout asinglesuchday.Intheordinarysenseofthewords,however,Attica mayclaimabout270sunnydaysinthecourseoftheyear.Daysand nightsonwhichtheskyisperfectlycloudyarealsorare,fourorfive onlyoccurringinayear.Insummerthecloudsgenerallyappearinthe forenoononly. Humidity. Dewisscarcely,ifatall,knowninsummer(May-Sept.), butaslightfallofdewmayoccuratotherseasonsunderfavourablecon ditions.Ifcompletesaturationoftheairwithmoisturebeestimatedat 100,thisfigureisrarelyattained;theannualmeanisabout63,butin Julyand Augustitmaysinkto15 oreven10.Thisextremearidityoccurs duringtheprevalenceoftheN.E.winds(theEtesianorMelthni),when observationshaveprovedthatthesoilsometimesattainsaheatof165° Fahr.FogorMistisrare. The generalBolesofHealthtobeobservedinGreecearesimi lartothoserequiredinS.Italyandothersouthernlands.The visitorshouldinvariablybesomewhatmorewarmlyoladthanina similartemperatureathome,andheshouldneverleavethehouse withoutanovercoatorplaid,tobedonnedonpassingfromsun shinetoshade,whensittinginaboatorcarriage,andintheeven ing.Thesunissostrongeveninwinter,thattbedifferenceof temperaturein theshadeisverymarked.Inthecoolerseasons, thetravellershouldavoidsittingintheshade,especiallyonthe coldstonesofruinedbuildings.Itisalsonecessarytobewarmly coveredduringsleep; thesupplyofbed-clothesatthehotelsand lodging-housesisapttobescanty.Catchingcoldisoftenamuch moreseriousaffairthanin coolerclimates,andthefirstsymptoms shouldbecarefullyattendedto. The WatebofGreece,exceptinthemountainousdistricts,isseldom thoroughlypureorwholesome,andthetravellershouldquenchhisthirst mainlywithwine,tea,coffee,andthelike.Thegoodqualitiesofthe resinouswinementionedat p.xxivarehighlyextolledbythosewhoare usedtoitspeculiarflavour,especiallystomachic in derangementsoccas ionedbytheunusualfood. Malarial Feverisendemiconlyinfew a ofthelow-lyingplains,such asthoseofBoBotia,Argos,Laconia,andElis,andgenerallymanifests itselfintheformofague.Travellerswhotakesufficientnourishment andobservethemostordinaryprecautionsaremuchlesslikelytosuffer fromitthanthepoorly-fedandbadly-housednatives.Theyshouldbe ontheirguardagainstthevapoursrisingfromthegroundafterheavy rain,andshouldavoidtheevening,night,andearly-morningair asmuch as possible,especiallywhenfasting.Amoderateuseofspiritsissaidto bea prophylacticagainstfever,andquinineandchangeofairaretbe bestcures. OfPhysicians((axpoc,iatrds7pi.iaxpl)thereisnolackinGreece, andthoseinAthensthe andotherlargetownsmaygenerallybetrusted, thoughtheyprescribemoredrugsthanisnowusualinW.Europe.Most ofthemhavestudiedinFranceorGermanyandcanspeakFrenchor German.AmongthesemaybementionedDr.Ldmbro$(alsoasurgeon), II. MODERAGREEKLANGUAGE.xxix andOr.Makkas,bothatAthens.Pbysidansarefoundeveninthesmaller townsandvillages,thoughgenerallyofaninferiortype; notunfrequently theyaretheprovincialmayors(demarchs).—ThebestHospitalin AthensistheBvangelismos,wherethe chargeof10dr.adayincludesme dicineandmedicalattendance.

II. TheModernGreekLanguage. The languageofthemodernGreekswaslongregardedbyschol arsasasemi-barbarousdialect,compoundedofthemosthetero geneouselementsanddestituteofanyconnectionwithclassicGreek. Now,however,thedivergenceswhichexistbetweenmodernand ancientGreek,undeniableastheseare,areconsideredmerelyas thenaturalresultsofthehistoricalvicissitudesoftheGreekpeople andoftheforeignyokewhichoppressedthemforcenturies.The uncertaintywhichprevailsonmanyisolatedpointsisexplained chieflybythefactthatnouniversallypopularworkbyaninflu entialwriter,andnoauthoritativelexicontogiveanacademicruling onthevexedquestions,haveasyetappeared. The languageandliteratureofHellaswerespreadbytheMace doniansthroughoutalltheirconqueredempire;andtheAtticdia lect(withsomemodifications),bothinvirtueofthefactthatit wasaffectedbytheeducatedMacedonians,andinvirtueofthe masterpiecesofliteraturethatwerecomposedinit,becamethe mostauthoritativeofall.Itwasamatterofcoursethatwhenthe Komanempirewasdivided,AtticGreekbecamethelanguageof thecourtatByzantium.Theconqueredborrowedonlythename oftheconquerors,andeventothepresentdaytheGreekpeasant callshimselfBomaedsandhislanguageBomaeika.Theancient dialectsgraduallydeclinedinimportance;thoughtheystillstub bornlyclungtoexistenceinremoteislandsandsequesteredmoun tain-districts,whosepopulationneverchanged,andhavelingered eventoourdays.Sidebysidewiththeuniversallyunderstood populardialectandwiththewrittenlanguagewhichhasbegunto undergoarefiningprocess,therestillexistpeculiaridiomsinChios, Crete,Tshakonia(j>.262),Maina(p.263),Trebizond,etc.,which,as thelastphasesofancientspokendialects,areofimportancein throwinglightontheirpreviousconditions.Asourknowledgeof Greekhistorywouldleadustoexpect,theseisolatedrelicsofan cientdialectsarechieflyfoundtobeDoric,thoughafeware^Eolic. Modernliterarywritten or Greektoa certainextent approxi matestoclassicGreek,sothat,e.g.,thenewspapersmaybereadwith ntOedifficultybythosewhoareacquaintedwiththelatter.But withthespokenlanguageitisverydifferent.Eventhemostac complishedclassicalscholarfailstounderstandthis,withoutspecial •tudy.ThemethodofpronunciationwhichprevailsisEeuchlin's »ystem(broughtfromConstantinoplein1453byJohnLascarisand Mbfellows,andtaughtinItalyforseveralyears),amidiffersvery

II. MODEKNGREEKLANGUAGE. essentiallyfromtheErasmiansystem,whichhasbeenadopted by westernscholars; whileentirelynewwordsfortheordinaryarticles ofeverydaylifehavesupersededtheclassicterms.Anyone,however, whoisfairlywellversedintheancientlanguage,willfinditeasy toacquireasufficientacquaintancewiththemoderntongueforthe purposesoftravelinthecourseofa month'sstudyatAthens underagoodinstructor,whom forenquiriesmayhemadeatthe booksellers'shops.Thefollowingsummaryislimitedto afew ofthemostessentialpoints; anditsobjectwillbeattainedifit placesthosetravellerswhohavenotleisuretoacquireamore satisfactoryknowledgeofmodernGreek,ina positiontoaskan occasionalquestionormakeanoccasionalrequest.Evenwhenthe travellerisaccompaniedbya courier,hewilloftenfindituseful tobeabletoaddressa guideorinn-keeperdirectly.Vincent$ Dickson's'HandbooktoModernGreek'(2nded.,1881;Macmillan, London)willbe foundaconvenientmanualforthefurtherstudy ofthelanguage. Pronunciation.Vowels:a,e,andoarepronouncedlikeain 'father',e in'pet',ando in'for'; missoundedlikeoin'fore', butcanscarcelybedistinguishedfromoinordinaryconversation. Thecommonestvowel-soundis ee(theItaliani),asin'feet', fornotonlyaretheletterstj,t,andu sopronounced,butalso thediphthongsei, ot,andui.Intransliterationforpronunciation, thisee-soundisrepresentedthroughouttheHandbook(exceptin thecaseofpropernames; comp.p.xli)bytheletteri,pronounced intheItalianfashion.Theremainingdiphthongsoi,ou,eu,rp, andou,arepronouncedrespectivelylikeaeore(inpet),av(afj, ev(ef),eev(eef),andou(oo). Consonants,fi issoundedlikev; fandybeforea,o,ou,or to,arehard,beforevarious the eandee-soundsyispronouncedy, andylikethegutturalchintheScottish'loch'ortheGerman 'nicht';(represented 8 onthelargemapbydft)ispronouncedlike thin'the',6likethin'thin'; CistheEnglishx orsofts asin rose; ahas almostalwaysthehissingsoundofss,bothatthebe ginningandinthemiddleofwords; Homer). TheEnglishtravellerwhohaBlearnoiltopronouncteGreekatschool accordingtoquantitywill findthechangesofpronunciationinparticular ettersfarlesstroublesomethantheabandonmentofallregardtoquantity II. MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE.xxxi andtheadoptionofaccentsinstead.Thenativeswillhardlyunderstand themostcorrectsentenceifitispronouncedwiththewrongaccents. ThusevenuetXirrot,theordinaryaffirmationfor'verywelT,isnotcom prehendedifpronouncedpaXtora.Thisthereforeshouldinthefirstplace occupyEnglish the student'sattention. Substantives.ThenumberofDiminutivesinmodernGreekis striking,thoughtheyarenotalldiminutivesinmeaning:e.g. (loa/dpi(moschari,fromp.6ayoi),calf;dpvaxi(arnaki,fromdpvf) lamb;$a\i.$(h.i(vamvaki),cotton.Intensativesare,ontheother hand,rare: e.g.xoutoEXo(koutala),table-spoon,fromxoutoXi,spoon. OmissionsofShortVowelsatthebeginningofwordsarenotun common: e.g.tptSi(ffdi,fromdcptotov),snake;ootti(spfti,from 637tixtov),house;y.dxi(mati,from6|Apumov),eye,largespring;pia,Iva(enas,mia,na; comp.p.xxxiii) wedasanindefinitearticle. ComparisonofAdjectives.TheComparativeisusuallyformed t>Tprefixingm6(pi6,fori:Xeov)tothepositive; theSuperlative prefixingthearticletothecomparative.Afewadjectivescom- r»redintheancientmannerhavesurvived,asxaXXlxepo?(kalli- *oos),better;^etpoxepos(chir6teros),worse;butmb%de"n)=no-one,none. dXXos,dXX-rj,dXXo(alios,alii,alio),other;6X04,8X7],ZXo(olos, oli,olo),whole,inthepi.all. Prepositions.Thecommonpeoplerarelyuseanyprepositions exceptthosethatgoverntheaccusative.InsteadofIv'AiW]vai4(en Athlnaes),thecommonphraseisoxds(contractionfor£[4xds) 'AtK^aS(stasAthi'nas)orax^v(forsisX'Jjv)'ASr/jva(stinAthina). Inmanyeasesanadverbisprefixed:e.g.Ttpoa&dsis(prosthais) 'before'(insteadofupowiththeGen.).'Beside'('near','at')is usuallyxov8d(konda),'with'(jloc^u(niazi),towhichtheenclitic genitives(xou,aou(mou,sou)areadded:e.g.xovSd(aou,'besideme', 'atmyhouse',xovSdasorxovoda'aiixov(kondaseorkondas' avton),'besideyou','atyourhouse'.'Without'isYtupts (choris). 'Until'or'asfaras'is14ap.£(fsame);e.g.Xaa.[asxov0p6(Aov(fsame tondromon),'asfarastheroad'.Afewabbreviatedformations areincommonuse:e.g.TtponoXXoij(propolloii),'foralongtime'. Conjunctions.Kat(kae),and,also;8i8xt(dioti), then;[ioi (ma),but;dXXd(alla),but;XotTtov(Hp6n),so,thns;oxi(oti),that; Ttcus(pos),that;Oldvd(diana),inorderthat;dv(an),if. II. MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE.xxxiii Numerals.CardinalandOrdinal. 1.hai,[Ma,2va(enas,mla,irpioxos,TtpcGxn),Ttpc&xov(prfitos, e"na).Gen.Iv6i(Ata«, evo; pr6ti, proton). (ends,mias, Acc.Ivav, (Ata-J, 2va(6nan,mtan,ena). 2. 860£8exa(d6deka). 8cuSexaxoc(dodekatos). 13.Sexaxpeit,neut.Sexaxpia8exaxotxpixot(dekatostrltos). (dekatrfs,dekatrfa). 14.SexaxsaoapesorBexaxeaoapa— xexapxot. (dekatSssares,-tessara). 15. 8exome\xe(dekapende). —Ttepitxot. 16.8exa£i;(dekaex; usually, — extoc. dekax). 17.8exaefita,-EV.eixosxosirpiuTOt(ikost6sprotos) 30.xpidvxa(trianda). xptaxoaxot(triakostos). 40.oapavxa(saranda). TEaaapaxosxot(tessarakostos). 50.nevJjvxa(peninda). 7i£vxir)xoox6t(pendikost6s). 60.kifiizo.(exlnda). EExoaxot(exikostos). 70.etpoopuj-jxa(efdomlnda).£[!8op.7)xoax6t(ebdomikost6s). 80.6fSoma(ochdfinda).6ySot)xosx6i(ochdoikostos). 90.evvevrjNxa(ennemnda).£vv£vr)xoaxot(ennenikostos). 100. exaxdv(ekato[n]). Ixaxoaxdt(ekatost6s). theAsfirstthehundredcommonorpeopleso,itwilldonotsufficeusetotheaddordinalthefollowingnumeralscardinalbeyond numeralsonly: 101. Exaxov?va« xai(ekatfinkse300.xpiaxootoi,etc.(triako- 200.enas).Siaxomoi,-at,-a(diak6-400.xexpaxoatoisii). (tetrak6sii). si-i, -a,-a). 500.ire-jxaxostoi(pendakosii). Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. C xxxiv II.MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE. 700. £tpxaxaa|Aevoc(dipsasmenos),thirsty.The simpleperfectinitsoriginalsignificationhasdisappeared; the currentformsareaoristicintheirsignificance: e.g.euprjxa(evrika) =Tjupa(ivra),Ifound.Therealperfectisexpressedbyacircum locution:e.g.Zymypd<\>ei(echograpsi)=Ihavewritten.The aorist,however,isusuallyemployed.The2ndpers.onlyisused intheimperative,theotherpersonsbeingsuppliedbythesub junctiveprefixedbya;(as),orbyid(na):e.g.a;ISoOfiEorvot iSoupie(as,naidoume),insteadof(o&piev,'letussee- Theques tionthe ofaugmentpresentsconsiderabledifficulty;itmusthere sufficetonotethatthereisnoreduplicationandthatcertaincom poundverbstakeadoubleaugment: e.g.exax^Xafia(ekatelava)or IwidXafia(ekatalava)andxaxaXoPa(katalava),'Ihaveunder stood'.Amongthecontractedverbs thoseindmarethemostnu merous;thosein6mbecome6tm. elpwxt(fmae),Iam. ■Jjpi.ouva(imouna),Iwas. eTaoi(isse),thouart. •fcaouvoc(isouna),thouwast, efve(ine),he,she,oritis. •Jixave(ftane),he,6he,it orwas. ei(/.aaS}e (fmasthe),weare. •jmaa&s(imasthe),wewere. eIo&e (isthe),youare. fjaasfte(fsasthe),youwere. eTvs (fne),theyare. •Jjxave(ftane),theywere. &yw(echo),Ihave. tiya(icha),Ihad. I^eis(eohis),thouhast. ety£?(iches),thouhadst. I/Ei (e"chi),hehas. elye(iche),hehas. l^opiEv (echome),wehave. e^o(j.e[v](fchome[n]),wehad. e/exs (e'chete),youhave. EfyaxE(ichate),youhad. E/ouvfe](eclioun[e]),theyhave,etyavfe](fchan[ej),they had. II. MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE.xxxv Jiva>, X£t»(Wo),Isay. eiita(fpa),Isaid. Xi^tn,Xlc(les),thousayest.elrces(fpes),thousaidst Xlfet, Xeei(le"-'i),hesays. elite(fpe),hesaid. U|ie(leme),wegay. etTtapie(ipame),wesaid. Xexe(lete),yousay. elrcaxe(fpate),yousaid. Xive(lene),theysay. eXitme(ipane),theysaid. Ulm (thelo),will. I et&TjXa(ithila),Iwould. The commonpeopleinvariablyuaethesecondpersonsingularin conversation; theeducatedclassesfollowcustom the ofW.Europeand usethesecondpersonplural. Yes,tii(nae); certainly,Common u-dSXioraWobdsand(mllista),PhrasesPefiai(a)t. (vevae). No,y o i(ochi);certainlynot,816X0U(di61ou). Nothing,TiTtoxe(tipote),xtrcoxes(tfpotes),xbroxti(tfpota). Much, 7:0X6(polf);little,6X(fO(olfgo). Ithank,eujrapiaxdi(evcharisto).Iask,TtapaxaXiu(parakal6). Not,usedwithverbs,(den, Senthen):e.g.SevtAxrfvoi(dento okino),Id notdoit;withtheImperative(it)(m£),e.g.fj.-?) toxoW-rjc(mitokanis),donotdothat!—NotI,iftocm(egfi 6chi). Good day,xccX-ri[i?j](ji.ipa(kalimera);goodevening,xoX-f][e]oTre'pct (kalispera); goodnight,xctXf;vixxaorvu-vxa(kalinfktaor m'chta).Anotherpopulargreetingiseicb^Uimcou(pronounced yassou),yourhealthI Welcome! xaXcbcipioaxe(kalosorissate); theappropriateansweris xaXin;act;fupatie(kalossasfvrame),wefoundyouwell. Farewell!yjxipexs(chserete)f^exe orufieiav(echeteiya). Au revoirI xaXr^vdUxeipitucttv(kalinandamosin)! Pleasantjourney!xaXoxa£e(8i(kalotaxidi),xakbxccxeuoot(kalo katev6di)or0x6xaX<5(stokal6)! flow areyou?xixdveij,xdvexe(tikanis,kanete)? He(she)iswell,elvexaXd(ine kala); ill,te,tTjxeixe,ipiore(ti agapate,zitite,oriste)? DoyouspeakGreek,German,French,English?6|AiXeixepmpLaftxa (dXXTjVtxct),Yeprioivixoi,Y<*XXixd,df-fkixd(omilfteromseika[el- linika],yermanika,gallika,anglika)? Iunderstand,xaxaXafxpdvoiorIvvotu(katalamvano,ennoo);I do notunderstand,oivx.orSevi.(denk.ordenennoo). Speak slowly,Tcpotpepexedpfd(proferetearga). Its i good,enough,eivexaXo,ctpxexo(inekal6,Jarket6); itwilldo, dpxei,cpftcwei(arki,fthani). tTI shouldherememberedthat]5|i8throughouffsoundedlikejthesoft "ithusSev,'not',ispronouncedexactlyliketheEnglishwordthm. xxxvi II.MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE. I likethat,duxb|aoudptau(avtomouare"ssi). Itdoesnotmatter,Tteipd!Cei 8ev (denpirasi). Idonotthinkso,8£v tomoTeuoj^dentopistevo). Longlivetheking,i^Toj6{iaaiXeu«(si'toovassilevs). Consul,izpo&yoi(pr6xenos); consulate,Ttpoijeveio'v(proxemo). Red, xoxxwo?(kokkinos), black, u.aupo?(mavros); grey, ijiapos (psards)oroto^ti(stachtf). Placb,village,town,chapel(church),xoitoi,/mpi^,1x6X14,luxk-n- oia(topos,chori6,p61is,ekklissia);6 ywpv*.6z(0chorikos), thepeasant;^cnpianr]?(chori&tis),clodhopper. ThewordsSyitK,ayia(saint,masc.andfern.)occurringinmany namesofchurchesandvillages,should,strictlyspeaking,bepronounced dyios,ayia,accordingtotherulesatp.xxx, butinordinarylanguage theyaresoundeddyos,dya,andwhenthe followingnamebeginswitha vowel,theyarecompletelyincorporatedwithit,sothat,e.g.,Hagios JohannesispronouncedAidni(s). Mountain,plain,rock,mud,(3oov<5,xdu.JTO{,irdxpa,Xasitir)(voun6, kambos,petra,laspi). Shop(generaldealer),u-TtaxxaXi(bakkali),pvaYaE)i(raagasf). Druggist'sshop,OTO^apia(spezaria),cpapu-axeiov(farmakfo). Coffee-house,xatpevetov(kafenio). Tobacconist's,xomvoTToiXeTov(kapnopolio). Confectioner's,{^apoTtXaaTaoN(zacharoplastio). School,teacher,ayoXeiov,SiSaaxaXot(scholion,didaskalos). Hovsb, ouki(spfti);garden,xTjrat(kipos);court,duXr)(avlf). WheredoesMr.N.live?ttouxefroixei6xiipio?N.(poukatikfo kyriosN.)? Iseh (she)athome?elvectbotcIti(fnestdspiti)? nComei ! (literally'forwards'),i\ncp6i(embrfis)! He hasgoneout,i$yr\n.e(evyfke). Hewillcomeimmediately,xropaep^exai(toraerchetse). WhencanIseeMr.N.?h6teepwiopuiydiSfutotx6piovN.(pote abor6n idot6nkirlonN.)? Concierge,Ttopxi^pTj?or8up(up(5c(portieris,thiroros). Totheright,totheleft,oeijid(dexia),dpiazepd(aristera). Above,below,aTOxvra(apano),xatu)(kato). Beyond,ir£paduo(peraap6); faraway,puxxpud(makrya). Adjoining,next,SiTiXa(dlpla); near,xovrd(konda). I staet,dtaympm(anachor6). I walk,7t$pmaTtt>(peripattf)ortoxoj(=in)Yperipatos). Iarrive,arrived,tpftdtvoj(fthano),etp&aoa(Ifthasa). Takecare!Ttpduc^e!npoaiSjate(pr6sexe,prosexate). Gently! slowly! siyaaifd(sig£siga). Quick! YP^Y<>pa(grigora)! eGivem aswitch! 86?ptouptiaP^pY"(&6tmoumiaverga)! II. MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE.xxxvft Horse,mule,Skoyov,piouXdpi(alogo,moulari); ^S>dv(zoo)is fusedo either; ass,Y{ivopuxiexai[orX£ve]a&x<5(posonomazetae [orle"ne]avt6)? Lets u startI so.cp6fiu|ji£(nafigome)! Whither arewegoing?tiou7iapi.e(poiipame)? Doyouknowtheway?$e6p£t«xovSpopiov(xevristondromo)? Have youoftenmadethejourney?exotp.estcoXXou?cpopaicxov op6(jLov(fskamespollaesforaestondromo)? The day'sjourney,xod-jiafim(toagoyio),usedgenerallyforany stagetraversedortohetraversedonhorsebackorhydriving inoneday,aswellas forthemoneypaidforit.—ey^nptev 860d-f(ima(echomendioag6yia),it istwodays'journey. Iride,xapotXXixeuro(kavallike'vo). I mount,dtaaftalva)(anavaeno). Wait,m Ia goingtodismount,oxoluouvdxotxctPuj(stassounakatavfi). Iamtakingarest,avarcauojiai(anapavoraae). Iwishtowalk, MXiavdJ)Tcovf(opiexdra>8dpia(the"lonaipagome tapodaria). eExcusem , nowfarisitfromheretoPhyle? aoYY/opeixe, 7:6110-) ptaxpudelvearc'efioititt^v(tuX^v(sinchorfte, p6ssonmakrya ineap'ed6istinFilin)? Isthistherightwayto. ..?elve6xa)}aux6?8p6p.o{in...(fne0 kathavt6sdromosis...)? Is therean Innhere?e)reiihibl-iafyvohoyeZov(echied6enaxeno- docMon)? Have yonaroom?e^exeScupidxtov(tfohetee"nadomatio)?with two,threehedsp.e860, xptaxpepdxia(medfo,triakrev&tia)? Food, tpaYTjxot(fayiti).Seealsop.xxiii. Dinner,reupia(ye"vma).Supper,Seurvov(dfpno). Knife,(ia^atpi(machaeri); fork,7TY]po0vt(pirouni); spoon,xouxdXi (koutali). Glass,rcoxTjpi(potfri).Serviette,towel,Tiexaexa(petse"ta). xxxviii n. MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE. Fire, light,'tpa)Tia(fotia);matches,anipTa(spirta);candles,XTjpifkirf). Table,Tpajte^i(trapezi).Can,xavoiTE(kan&ti). Chair, chairs,xapsxXa,xapexXoit(karekla,kareklsesorkarekles). Soap,aaitouvi(sapouni).Brush,poupxCa(vourtsa). Pillow, ■KpoaxifoXot(proskefalo); bed-clothes,oxETraopiatouxpc- Pattou(skepasmatoukrevatiou). Chamber-convenience,xaTOupoxd-joiTov(katourokanato). WaiterI iraiot(paedf)orTtotielooi(poufssa; lit.whereareyou?). Theresponseofthewaiterisicpftoas(eTthasse=here)ordpiaro; (amessos=immediately). Give,bring,show,me(us),ode,(pipe,Sei£s,(iou[p.*?](dds,fere, dixe,mou[mas]). Openthedoor! avoidst?)vn6pxa(£nixetinporta)! Shutthewindow! xXei4tonapdftupov(klisparithiro) to I Water-closet,d7td7tEm&up.a>vdjakd^m(prepi, epithimfia n ohalldzo). WhatdoyougiveforaNapoleon?raSaovodaSte8t'IvavonroXedvi (pdssond6stedie"nanapoledni)? I shouldreceiveanotherdrachma,iymvdXapipdvoidxdpu][itorv 8pay_p,Y]v(echonalamvanoakdmimfandrachmfn). Time, weather,xaipdi(kserds). To-day,o-fjpiEpa(siraera),to-morrow,ouptov(avrio). In theevening,-coPpdSu(tovrSdi). InBytday,hemorning,t^vfjpipavtoitpiul(tinimera).(to proi). Midday,p.siJ7]p.£pt(mesime'ri);afternoon,a7tofieiJT]pipi(apomesimeri). Late(toolate),dpyd(arga).Now,Ttupa(tdra). Still,dn6]xri(akdmi);notyet, Sytdxdpvn(dchiakdmi). Later,uaTEpa(istera)orxoiTdmv(katopin); sooner,npoxiTEpa(pro- tltera). What timeisit?ti&paeIve(tidrafne)? quarterpast one,plotxai TerapTov(mfakaetetarto);half-pastone,piia(xal)iiiou(mia ksemissf);quartertoseven,EtpTdTrapdTETapTOV(eftapar£ tetarto). Theclockiswrong,to(w)poX6fiQSTrrjvawEixaxd(toroldyipiyaeni kaka). n. MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE.xxxix In onehour,in(jucw&pav(ismian6ian). On the4thofApril,TipxexdpxirjvxoO'ArtpiXiou(tintetartiutou Aprilfou). sIti raining,lightening,thundering,Ppe/ei,dsxpdicxei, (Jpovxqi (vre"chi,astrapti,vronda). Post, xa^uopoiAeTo-*(tachidromio). Letter, fpdp.p.11,pi.ypapipioixoi(gramma,grammata),orlitiixoX-fi, pi.etcioxoXoiT? (epistoll,epistolses).Comp.p.xxvi. Address,Envelope,oieu&uvau(dievthinsis),tpdxeXXo;(flkellos). Registered,ouoxrjfi^o(sistimeno). Answer,t£Ttavx7)ai«(apindisis). Haveyouanylettersforme?It/ereYPd'Wxa&Vejjiva(e"chete grammatadi'emena). Icometofetchthem,fp^opiaivd xdTcdpu>(erchomaanatapiro). Keepthelettershere, xpaxeixeihiaxdypapijAaxo(kratiteed6ta grammata). sHerei mycard,myname,vdxo£7:i(JxeTcx-/ipi6v(xoovopni)[tou(na toepiskeptirionmou,to6nomamou). Writing-paper,StatYpdpipiaxoi /apxlor fpoujdfjiaxoj(chartfdl£ grammata,grapsimatos). Postage-stamp,fP«|A|Jiax63T]pio(grammat6simo). Postcard,etuoxoXixovoeXxdpiov(epistolik6ndeltario); forahroad, oldo x eSooxepixiW(diatoexoterik6). Letter-box,yp<*pi|/.axoxt3i6xiov(grammatokivotio). Packet,Tta*sxo(paketo). How muchhaveItopay?mi&oviywvditX-qpobaoi(p6sonechona pliroso)? Telegraph-office,lzr[k£.fpaperama). England,'Af(Ua(Anglia).Ferryman,7repa|j.dix^'?j?(pera- France,TaXXia(Gallia). matzfs). Germany,Tepfiavia(Yermanfa).Fare,vatiXoc(navlos). Switzerland/EXpexia(Elvetia). Sailor,va6xT]5(navtis). Italy,'IxotXta(Italia). Russia,'Pinaafa(Ro6sfa). Trades. America,'Apiepixif](Amerikf).Baker,liropia?(psomas). Tailor,pdepxTjc(r£ftis). pDayso theWeek. Shoemaker,TiocriouxCfjc(pa- Sunday,tt'jptaxT](kiriakf). poutzis). Monday,OEuxepa(deftera).Smith,-jucpxTjs(yfftis). Tuesday,xptxT)(triti). Washerwoman,itXuaxpa(plfstra). Wednesday,xsxdpxTj(tetarti). Thursday,ir£pntx7](pempti). Clothing. Friday,itapoiaxeo-/)(paraskevf; Coat,aoupxouxo(sourtotiko). i.e.thepreparation).Trousers,7taMxaX6vi(pantaloni). Saturday,adfflaxo(savvato).Drawers,eot6[)paxo(es6vrako). Last,nextTuesday,x-fjvTtEpau-Shirt,uttoxolhoo(ipokamiso). [AEVTjv,ipytoplvipxptXTj-;(tinStocking,xd\x£a(kaltza). perasmenin,erchome'nin,tri-Collar,xoXXdpo(kollaro). tin). Overcoat,eitavmcpopt(epanof6ri). The Boat. Hat,naiziXko(kapello). Ship,xapdfii(karavi). Coverlet,TtditXrafia(paploma). Boat,pdpxa(v£rka). Rug,psXevxfrx(vele"ntza). Boatman,[iapxdpTji(varkans).Handkerchief,(iavOTjXt(mandili). II. MODERNGREEKLANGUAGE.xli TheBody. Daughter,xoprj,xopixO,orftUYa- Head, xetfaXt(kefali). t£pa(kfiri,korftsi,thigateraj. Throat,Xat[Aios(anepsios). Parents,foveTs(gonfs). Husband,avopaj(andras). Wife,YUvaTxa(yinaeka). Son,tojioIorul6s(psedf,iy6s). $tepo4 (anfpandros,ele"vtheros). In apracticalguide-hooklikethepresent,inwhichthemodern andclassicformsofthesamenamesarecontinuallyoccurringside byside,thequestionofTransliterationpresents considerahlediffi culty.OntheonehandthemodernGreekpronunciationmusthe indicatedasclearlyanddirectlyaspossible,andontheotherhand theappearanceof thenamemustnotbetooradicallyaltered.It hasthereforeappearedadvisabletotheEditorandthosewhosead vicehehastakenonthesubject,nottolaytoomuchstressupon strictconsistencyinthismatter,solongasambiguityorerrordoes notresultfroma departurefromtheliteralreproductionofthe Greekforms.Inthe propernamesinthetextthefollowingsystem hasbeengenerallyadopted: tjisrepresentedbye; tuby5; aiby «e;01byoe(exceptattheendofwords,wheretheoldermethodof transliteration,foundeduponLatin,wouldtakei);p,eu,andau inancientGreeknamesby6,eu,andau,inmodernnamesbyv,ev, andav;ugenerallybyy;

III. Divisions ofCountry. theGeneralSketchof Agriculture,Industry,andCommerce. The kingdomofHellas,whichwasformedbytheLondonCon ferenceof1830andenlargedin1864bytheadditionoftheIonian Islandsandin1881(ConferenceofConstantinople)byThessalyand Arta,fallsnaturallyintothethreegeographicaldivisionsoftheMain land,thePeloponnesus,andtheIslands.Theseaisthemainboundary betweenthese.ThePeloponnesusisconnectedwiththemainland bytheIsthmusof Corinth,aflatandnarrowneckoflandwashed bythe seaoneitherside.Itisthusmuchmoreinsularthancon tinentalincharacter,andinitsstructureitisreallymoresharply dividedfromN.Greecethanaretheislandsofthe^EgeanSea, whichnotonlycontinuethegenerallineoftheAtticpeninsulabut agreewithitinthecharacteroftheirmountains.Theislandof Eubceaistoallintentsandpurposesa partofthemainland. ThetotalsuperficialareaofthekingdomofGreeceisabout 25,135sq.M.(65,119sq.Kil.), orsomewhatlessthanthatof Scotland(29,820sq.M.)andalittlelargerthanthatofWestVir ginia(24,645sq.M.).Almostone-thirdofthesoilistheproperty ofthestate. For administrativepurposesthecountryisdividedintosixteen Nomarchies,thenamesofwhicharefollows as : 1.AtticaBoeotia; 2.Euboea;3.PhthiotisPhocis;4.AcamaniaAltolia; b.Achaia fyElis;6.Arcadia;7.Laconia;8.Messenia;9.ArgolisCorinth; 10.Cyclades;11.Kerkyra(Corfu);12.Kephallenta(Cephalonia); 13.Zdkynthos(Zante);14.Ldrissa;15.Trfkkala;16.Arta.—Each NomarchyisdividedintoEparchies(sub-prefectures),andthese againintoDemarchiesorcommunes. ThePopulationofGreeceatthecensusof1889was2,187,208. Twelvetownshavemorethan10,000inhabitants.TheGreekcensus showsthesomewhatunusualfeatureofthemen(1,133,625)out numberingthewomen(1,053,583)byabout5 percent. Finances.Thenationaldebt,whichoriginatedwiththees tablishmentofthenewkingdomin1830,hassteadilygrownsince thatperiod.InJan.1893itamountedto803,990,401dr.ingold and214,933,856dr.inpaper.About31,000,000dr.goldand 5,500,000dr.paperwerepaidin1893asinterestandsinking-fund. Thebudgetof1893placestherevenueat111,528,662dr.and III. AGRICULTURE. theexpenditureat105,528,552dr.,butthedifficultyofraising thetaxesmakesitprobablethatthesurplushereindicatedexists onpaperonly. ArmyandNavy.UniversalliabilitytoserviceintheArmy isthelawofGreece.Thepeacestrengthofthearmywasreduced in1893from28,114to22,607men,including1890officers.The uniformresemblesthatofDenmark.Theeightbattalionsofthe Eusiovot(evzoni),riflemen,whoguardthefrontier,stillwearthe Albaniandress. TheFleetcomprisessevenironcladvessels,fifteensteamersand threesailingshipsofdifferentkinds,andtwentytorpedoboats.It ismannedby3040 men,andhasabout250guns. Agriculture.ThebulkofthepopulationofGreekisoccupied intillingthesoil.Theland,thoughgenerallyhilly,alsocom prisesmanyfineplainsandfertilevalleys.Onlyabout20percent ofthesurface,however,hasbeenbroughtundertheplough,large tractsstilllyinguncultivated.Thesystemofhusbandryisstillvery imperfect.Inmostdistrictstheploughisofsoprimitiveaform asalmosttocarryusbacktothedaysofHesiod.Aregular feature intheinventoryofthefarmisthejio'ixevxpov(Bodkentron),orox- goad,alongpointedstaffexactlyresemblingthegoadsrepresented onancientvases. Large propertiesformavanishingminorityincomparisonwith smallholdings.InthemountainousdistrictsandintheArchipelago therearefarmsofI-IV2acreandevenless.Thefarmsintheplains generallyruntofrom12to50acres,andfarmsexceeding250acres arerare.Manyofthelastareinthehandsofthegovernment. The chiefcerealscultivatedGreece inareWheat(aixo;,otxdpi), Barley(xpi%r\,xpi&opi;chieflyusedasfodderforhorses),amix tureofWheatandBarley(opiifPhthiotis,Trichonia,andMesolonghi; themostwidely-knownbrandcomesfromLamiaandfromAgrinion. About15sq.M.areundertobacco. Cotton (f3apf&xi)nowoccupiesabout24sq.M.,chieflyinthe provinceofLivadiS. III. AGRICULTURE. Vineyards(vine-plantdu.7tsXi)coveranareaofabout490sq.M. andproducefruitandwinetothevalueof30-40,000,000dr.an nually.WineisexportedfromCorinth,Patras,Kephallenia,Euboea, etc.,andtheisland-winesofSantoriniorThera(seep.146),Tenos, andNaxosarealsofavourablyknown. The varietiesofgrapesgrowniuGreeceareverynumerous.Among thehestfor tableuseare6 poSr/tTjc(roditis),the round,light-redberries ofwhichareparticularlypopular;ton.O!TY«TO(moschato),theMus catelgrape;andridOuXxavfva(soultanina),longwhiteseedlessgrapes, somewhatlargerthanthecurrant-grapes-Thelast,whichripenasearly asAugust,arewell-knowninEnglandintheformofSultanaraisins. Themust(u.ouffxoi),boiledinstarchandclarifiedbytheadditionofan oilywhiteclay(asprochoma),formsasweetpasteorjelly(moustalevrid), whichisverypopularamongallclassesofGreeks.Thetendervine- leaves(klimatophytla)arealsocookedandeatenastheenvelopeofa mixtureofriceandmincedmuttonservedintheformofballsorpate's (dolmddes).Thestemsareusedasfuelandaswinter-fodderforasses. Theleesofthewine(Uipoura)areusedinthemanufactureofbrandy (raki)andspiritsofwine(spirto). InAttica,Argolis,Arcadia,andsomeotherdistrictsthewineismixed withtheresinoftheAleppoorcoastpine(PinusAlepensis).Thewine pressesofthe peasantsstillretaintheirancientformsalmostunchanged. Thearea(180sq.M.)occupiedbytheCurrantFieldsissmaller thanthatoccupiedbytheother vineyards,asthisvarietyofdwarf grape(nottobeconfoundedwiththeEnglishcurrant,whichis anentirelydifferentfruit)istoodelicateevenforN.Greece.The nameofcurrant(Kopivfhaxr)UTatpt;)isderivedfromCorinth,the firstplaceinGreecetoexportthisfruitin largequantitiestoother partsofEurope.ThechiefseatsofitscultivationareEleia,Patras, Triphylia,^Egialeia,Corinth,theS.slopesofKephallenia,and Zante.In1891 167,000tonsworth70,000,000dr.wereexported. TheMulberryTree,cultivatedasfoodforthesilk-worms, oc cursGreece in initstwoformsofMurusalbaandMurusnigra (inAtticatheformeronly).Thearea(now30sq.M.)underthese treeshasdecreasedoflateyears,asthesilk-cultureisgradually givingplacetothemoreprofitablecultivationofthecurrant(comp. p.347).Theberriesofthewhitemulberry(mouro)areofauin sipidflavour,buttheblackmulberries(xinomoura)arejuicyand refreshing,withapleasantbitter-sweettaste; akindofbrandyis preparedfromthelatter. The chiefmassesofcolourinaGreeklandscape,especiallyin AtticaandCorfu, aregenerallyformedbythesilvery,grey-green foliageofthegnarledOliveTrees(somemanycenturiesold),which coveranareaof675sq.M.OliveoilisexportedtoEngland,Austria, Italy,Turkey,Roumania,andRussia; theoilmadefromthekernels issentmainlytoMarseilles.Preservedolives,eatenwith bread, formoneofthechiefarticlesofthefoodofthelowerclasses.On anaveragetheolive-treeyieldsagoodcropevery3-6years. FigsareespeciallycultivatedintheeparchiesofKalamseand Messene,wherethegrovesoffig-trees(ouxiatc),setinlongstraight lines,coverabout12sq.M.ofground(overthird a oftheentire in. INDUSTRY. areao s occupiedinGreece).Thefigs,driedpartlyinthesun and partlybyartificialheat,arelittleinferiorthose toofSmyrnaand formanimportantarticleofexport. AlmondTrees(d|AUYoaXtai{)occupyarea anofabout1200acres. —OrangeTrees(itopToxaXiou?), occupying3700acres, grow throughoutthewholeofGreece,exceptinthebleakermountain- districts,andarebestinPoros,Karystos,Naxos,Andros,andSparta. Among theotherfruit-treesofGreecemaybementionedthe CarobTree(IjuXoxepatia),theAgave(dftavato?),andtheFigCactus ((ppa-jxoouxia). Industry.TheindustryofGreece,innearlyeverybranch,is stillintheembryostage.Theexistingfactories,includingsteam flour-mills,spinning-mills,oil-presses,anda fewmachine-shops, areallinprivatehands; themostimportantareinthePiraeusand Athens.Theattemptsofthegovernmenttoencouragelargerin dustrialenterprises,bygrantingimportantprivileges,havehitherto beenunsuccessful.Agovernmentschoolofwood-carving,undera Germanmanager,hasexistedforsomeyearsatVytina,nearMa- goulyanainArcadia(p.304). Mining.ThechiefmetalsareSilver,Lead,andZinc,which aregenerallyfoundtogether.IntheminesofLaurion(p.130) 2-22lbs.ofsilverareobtainedfromatonoflead.Copperisfound chieflyinSeriphosandrecentlyatLaurionalso.Ironisfoundin manyplaces;itisnow,however,littleworked.—Largedeposits ofSulphuroccurintheS.E.partofMelosandelsewhere. Amongthenon-metallicmineralsthefirstplaceistakenby Marble,inwhichnolandisricherthanGreece; withoutthiscostly materialneitherarchitecturenorsculpturewouldhavereachedthe heightdid. theyAttica,thePeloponnesus,Eubcea,andseveralof theotherislandscontainmarblequarries,nearlyallofwhichwere workedbytheancientsandwhichseempracticallyinexhaustible. ThemostbeautifulofalltheGreekmarblesisthefine-grainedand spotlesslywhiteParianmarble,foundintheislandofParos; the finestvarietywascalled'Lychnites'bytheancients,becauseitwas quarriedbythelightoftheminer'slamp.Themostvaluablequar riesinAtticaarethoseofAft.PentelikonorPentelicus; thePentelic marbleisasdazzlinglywhiteastheParian,butissomewhat coarseringrain.All themostimportantbuildingsofancient Athensare ofthismaterial.ThequarriesofKokkinar£,about IV4M.farthertotheN.,produceasomewhatdarkervariety,which hasbeenfreelyusedinthemodernbuildingsofAthens.Thenum erousquarriesofAft.Hymettosyieldagreyish-bluemarble,some timesveinedwithdarkerstreaks,whichdoesnotseemtohavebeen »ohighlyprizedbytheGreeks(mostof thesimpletombstonesof thepoorbeingofthismaterial),butappealedstronglytotheRoman fondnessforcolour.ThequarriesofKarystosandotherplacesin theS.ofEubceayieldlargemonolithicblocksofgreyishmarble, xlvi IV.THEGREEKPEOPLE. withgreenveinings(cipollino).Thisalsowasafavouritewiththe Romans.Themarblesof8kyroaareofvariouscolours;thatof Colounaes,the so-called'marmofreddo',issnow-white,thatof Trisbouksesredoryellow,thatofValaxa(anislettotheS.W.of Skyros)variegated.ThequarriesofTmos,oldandnew,yieldfine grainedwhitemarble,whitemarblewithdarkpatches,black marble, anddark-greenmarble(Panormos).ThemarbleofNaxosisalso whiteandfinelygrained.ThemarbleofthePeloponnesus,which isfoundonlyonParnon(chieflynearDolyana)andTaygetos,is lessvaluable.Theancientquarriesblack ofTsenaranmarble(or limestone)havenot yetbeenre-discovered. The EmeryMinesofNaxos,which'belongtothegovernment, arevaluable.EmeryisalsofoundinParosandSikinosandatThebes. ThePotter'sClayofGreecewasofasgreatimportanceinthe minorartsits asmarbleinarchitectureandsculpture.Theclay fromwhichtheAtheniansmouldedtheirdelicate,light,andyet comparativelystrong vaseswaspartlyfoundnearCapeKoliasonthe BayofPhaleron;themodernpottersofAthensprocuretheirma terialfromtheneighbourhoodofAmpelokipi,Kalogreza,andKou- kouvaonaes.TheredclayfromwhichtheheadsofTurkishpipes aremadeisfoundatDolyanainthePeloponnesusandinSeriphos. CommerceandNavigationarethefavouritepursuitsofthe modernGreeks.TheGreekmercantilefleetin1892consistedof 1334sailing-vesselsof281,024tons'burdenand 88steamersof 60,376tons.—ThechiefImports(140,400,000dr.in1891)are grain,yarnandtextiles,mineralsandmetals,timber,drugsand chemicals,metalwares,fish,hidesandbones,animals,coffee,sugar, rice,paper,andglass;thechiefExports(107,600,000dr.in1891) arecurrants(60%),ore(15%),oliveoil(8-9%),wine(60/0), tobacco,sponges,figs,etc.Englandistheforeigncountrymainly interestedinbothbranchesofGreektrade,thecountriesnextin orderbeingAustria,Turkey,Russia,France,andtheDanubian Principalities.—TheInternalTradeismainlyconcentratedinthe fairsconnectedwiththeprincipalchurch-festivals.SuchanEm- porikePanlgyrislastsfromthreetotwelvedays. IV. TheGreekPeople. The historianJacobPhilipFallmerayer,intheintroductiontohis 'Historyof theMoreaduringtheMiddleAges'(Vol.I.,1830), passed,asitwere,aformalsentenceofdeathonthenewly-creat edGreeknationsofarasregardeditsclaimtoagenuineHellenic descentbyascribingtoitapurelySlavonicorigin.Intheeyes of theGreeksthemselvesandofmanyenthusiasticPhilhellenesthis attackwasregardedaslittleelsethanapoliticalassassination.Now, whenheadsandheartsarecooler,carefulsiftinghasleftunshaken theaccuracyofmanyoftheresultsofFallmerayer'sinvestigations, IV.HET GREEKPEOPLE. xlvii twhilea thesametimeithaspointedoutmanyweaknessesand Sapsinhischainofevidence.Thestudyoflanguage,customs, andhistoryhasgraduallyconfirmedthebeliefthattheexpenditure inMoodandmoneydemandedbytheGreekWarofIndependence *asnotsacrificedtoamerephantomt. Ithasbeenestablishedbyindisputablehistoricalevidence thatatcertainperiodsofhistory,particularlyinthecoursethe of 8thcent,ofourera,theSlavsoverranandpopulated,notonly Thessaly,butalsothePeloponnesusandconsiderabledistrictsin NorthernGreece.Evenbefore6th thecent.Greecehadbeenex posedtotheplunderinginroadsofthenorthernbarbarians,butthese inroadsweremereforays,leadingtonopermanentsettlementin HellasproperandnevercrossingtheIsthmusofCorinth.In677, however,theSlavsravagedthewholeofHellas,Thessaly,and Macedonia,remaininginthecountryatleastsevenoreightyears. EmperorJustinusII.calledintheaidoftheAvars,who,however, attackedtheSlavsmerelytocarryontheirworkthemselves.The laterinroadsmadebytheSlavs,Avars,andBulgariansinthefol lowingcenturyaffectedthenorthernprovincesonly. fOneo theresultsoftheterribleplagueof746-47,whichde solatedGreecethe andislands,wasthesettlementoflargetractsof depopulatedopencountrybycoloniesofSlavs.Thenumberof Hellenesinthetowns,howeverremainedsolarge,thatmanyofthem founditexpedienttomigratetoConstantinople,whichhadalso beendecimatedbytheplague.Therepeatedattemptsmadefrom ConstantinopletodrivetheSlavsoutofGreeceweremoresuccess fulinthenorthernprovinces,wheretheSlavshadpaidtributesince 783,thaninthesouthern.InthePeloponnesusespeciallythe Slavsmadetheirfootingsecure,anditrequiredthemiraculous interventionSt.Andrew oftosavethetownofPatrasfromthem in807(seep.29).Thevanquishedbecame,byadecreeofEmp. NicephorusI., serfsofthebishopricofPatras,andcolonistswere sentfromallpartsoftheempiretotherecoveredterritory.Patras, Corinth,andtheislandsofthejEgeanSea(DodekanesOB)remained freefrmallmixturewiththeBarbarians. While theSlavsthus acquiredconsiderableterritoryinthePelo ponnesus,andevenontheS.slopesofMt.Taygetos,the recordof CentralorNorthernGreeceismorefavourable.AthensandAttica seemtohavebeensparedthetaintofBarbaricblood,whiletraces ofSlavonicracearefoundinBoeotia,theOpuntianLocris,Phocis, and(toalessextent)inthewesternprovinces.That,however,the HellenesorRomans('Pwfjiaioi),astheycalledthemselves,were e'ennumericallypredominantisevidentfromthefactthattheSla vonicelementhasbeencompletelyabsorbedbytheGreek.'Thenames

rallmerayer, tThechiefarewritersRoss,Ellissen,whohaveEarltakenMendelssohn-partinthisBarcontroversy,tholdy,Hop/,besides and BvUberg;seealsoFinlay'sHistory. xlviii IV.THEGRREEKPEOPLE. ofa fewhamlets,thepresentinhabitantsofwhichcanscarcely, however,trace theirdescentfromtheSlaysofthe9thcent.,andan occasionalunmistakablySlavonicof typefaceareallthatnowre mindusoftheunionofHellenicbloodwithSlavonic'(Hopf). AmuchmoreimportantelementinthepopulationofGreeceis formedbytheALBANrANs,calledArvanitae(Arnaouts)bythe Greeks,whiletheynamethemselvesBhkypetarsorSkipetars(i.e. Highlanders)andtheirlanguage(toApfJaviTtxa)Shkyp.Theyare probablythegenuinerepresentativesof theancientIllyrians,who wereperhapsofthesamestockastheMacedonians.Thefirstap pearanceofthenameinhistorydatesfromthe11thcent.,onthe occasionofthewarofexterminationcarriedonagainsttheBul gariansbyEmp.BasilII.,whocompelledtheAlbanianstoacknow ledgehiminsteadoftheirformerBulgarianmasters.Inthelatter halfofthe14thcent,theabledespot,ManuelCantacuzenusof Misithra,secondsonoftheByzantineemperorJohnCantacuzenus (1347-55),ledlargenumbersofAlbanianstopermanentsettlements inthePeloponnesus.Previoustothis,someisolatedbandsof Albanianhadexchangedtheirwildmountainfastnessesforthe plainsandpasturesofThessaly,S.Eplrus,andthebanksofthe Acheloos,whilemanyofthemhadenteredtheserviceoftheGreek archonsas'Acarnanian'mercenaries; anditwaslargelyfromthis divisionthe ofrace thatCantacuzenusdrewhiscolonists.The migrationoftheAlbaniansoncebeguncontinuedinanunbroken stream,extendingtoBoeotia,Attica,andeventoEuboeaandother islands.ThisextensionoftheAlbanianelementwasnaturally carriedoutattheexpenseoftheGreekelement.In1453about 30,000AlbaniansroseinrebellionunderPeterBnaagainstthe rule ofthePalseologi.TheTurkishgeneralTouraKhanwascalledtothe aidofthePalseologi,enteredthePeloponnesus,andcompletely crushedtheinsurrectionin1454.Theconditionsofpeacewere favourabletotheAlbanians; theywereallowedtoretainalltheir landedpossessions,eventhosetheyhadtakenfromtheGreeks,on conditionofpayinga renttotheformerlegitimateowners._Onthe conquestofConstantinoplebytheTurkstheleadingfamiliesin AlbaniaadoptedIslamfrompoliticalreasons,buttheAlbanianswho hademigratedtoGreece,likemostoftheGreeksthemselves,re mainedfaithfultoChristianity.Anexceptiontothisrulewasformed bytheinhabitantsoftheplateauofPholoe,nearOlympia,andof theBardounochoriainLaconia,whobecamefanaticMoslemsand themostbitteranddangerousenemiesoftheGreeks. The secondgreatAlbaniansettlementinGreece,ofamuch more stormycharacterthanthefirst,wasoneoftheconsequencesofthe firstunfortunaterisingagainsttheTurksin1770,whichtheGreeks undertookontheencouragementofRussia.TheSublimePorteem ployedthefanaticAlbaniansofEpirustosuppresstheinsurrection, nndthelatter,aftercompletingthistask,refusedtoquittheland TV.HET GREEKPEOPLE. andsettledthereinspiteoftheohstinateresistancetheGreeks. of Thefresh,healthy,andsomewhattempestuousthey elementintro ducedintoGreeceofferedastrongcontrasttothepartlySlavicised Greeks,whosenationalcharacterhadbecometingedwithaByzan tinehueandhadlostmuchofitsenterpriseandendurance.The weldingtogetherofthetworaceswasaslowprocess,hutcommunity ofreligiousfaithandstillmoreacommondangerprovedinthelong runasecurebondofunion.TotheGreeks,itistrue,belongsthe creditofhavingbeguntheWarofIndependenceandtherebylaid thefoundationstoneoflibertybutthefinaltriumphoverthedif- flcnltiesthatstoodin thewaybelongsinagreatdegreetothe Albanians.Itwasthelatterwhoproducedthemostbrilliantleaders and Thestrongesthandsin thenewGreece,andtheirreadyself- sacrificeforthecommonfatherlandhasgiventhemthefullestright to ashareinthelibertysohardlywonandinthesacrednameofGreek. TheAlbaniancostumehasbeenadoptedastheGreekNationalDress andisstillextensivelywornbymen,thoughnotsomuchbywomen.It consistsofaredfezwitha longbluetassel,presseddownononeside, arichlyembroideredblueorredjacketwithopensleeves,avestofa similarcut,awhiteshirtwithfullsleeves,aleatherngirdle,witha banderolefortheweapons,a whitefustanellaorkilt,shortbreeches, highredgaiters,andredshoeswithturneduptoes.Artisansandla bourers,especiallyintheislands,weara costumeoriginallyborrowed fromtheTurks,withlocalpeculiarities.Thisconsistsofashort,dark- colouredjacket,a redvest,andbaggytrousersofdark-greenordark- bluecottondescendingtobelowtheknees;thelowerpartofthelegis eitherbareorcladinstockings,andthefeetareencasedinbuckled shoes; thefeziswornupright.Incoldorrainyweatherallalike envelopthemselvesinalargeandroughcapote(xamra)madeofgoat's hair.—ThewomenofAthensandothertownshavegenerallyadopted thedressoftheFranks,thoughthoseofthemiddleandlowerordersre tainthefez,whichtheyadornwithalongtasselintertwinedwithgold thread.TheAlbanianpeasant-womenstilladheretotheirnationaldress, consistingalong ofshirt,embroideredatthesleevesandkeptinplace byaleatherngirdle;abovethisisa shortwhitewoollenjacket.Intheir hairandroundtheirneckstheywearstringsofcoins.Thedressof the womenintheIonianIslandsresemblesthatoftheItaliancontadine. The Wallachians,or,astheycallthemselves,Roumanians, whoformthethirdelementinthepopulationofGreece,leada nomadicshepherdlifeonOlympos,inthedistrictofAgrapha,and inAcarnania,wanderingsometimestoMt.(Etaorevenfartherto theN.TheyareofthesamestockastheRoumaniansontheDa nube,and.probablyspringfromaninterminglingofDacian,Mce- sian,andThracianraceswiththeRomancolonists.Theypossess onlyafewpermanentsettlementsorvillages(Stani)andforthe restleadagenuinelynomadiclifeunderhereditaryleadersnamed Chelingas(InmodernGreek,'Ap^nroipvfiy).TheChelingasisthere presentativeofthesettlement,whichgenerallybearshisname.He hiresfromthestateorthecommunetherightsofpasture, collects thetaxesduetothestate,andac«ountsforthemtotheheadsof familiesassembledin hisdwelling.TheWallachsclingtotheirown mannersandcustomsandscrupulouslyavoidintermarriagewith Baedeker'sQreece.2ndEdit. d 1 IV.THEGREEKPEOPLE; Greeksr o Albanians.TheGreeksspeakslightinglyof thesenomads, andattributetothem,probablynotwithoutground,mostof theacts ofbrigandagewhichforatimebroughtdiscreditontheGreekname. ThelanguageoftheWallacbiansstillshowsafewtracesits of Latinorigin.Asa rulethemenunderstandbothAlbanianand modernGreek.Theirstateof cultureisalowone.Manyof the Wallachiansarerich,butinsteadofmakingashowoftheirwealth theytheir dobesttoconcealit.Men,animals,andimplementsare allcrowdedtogetherintheirdirtytents.Themenspendthenight eitherinasmalluncoveredyardinfrontofthehutoronthemoun tainsbesidetheirflocks. The Jews,Turks,Franks,Gipsies,andotherinhabitantsof Greecearesofewinnumber,thattheirpresenceinthecountryLas noethnographicalbearing. The wonderfulpowerof assimilationwhichtheancientGreeks showedisstillpossessedbytheirsuccessors.Anditisthispower, whichinearlierperiodsprovedoftheutmostimportanceinpre servingtheHellenicelementunderthepressureofforeignin vasions,thatthefriendsofGreecelooktowithhopeforthefuture ofthenation. Asuperficialsurveyofthepeople,asseeninAthens,Syra,and otherlargetownsofthenewkingdom,detects,it istrue,much thatisthereverseofencouraging;onefeelsalmostasifhewere regardingacaricatureofFrenchlifeandmanner.Everythingseems swallowedupinthebottomlessgulfofpolitics.Keenpoliticaldis cussionsareconstantlygoingonatthecafe's;thenewspapers,which areextraordinarilynumerousandgenerallyoflittlevalue,are literallydevoured;everymeasureofthegovernmentisviolently criticisedandascribedtointerestedmotives.Theresultsofthis continualpoliticalfeverarenowheremoreconspicuousthaninthe numerouspartiesoftheChamberofDeputies,noneofwhichhasa definiteprogrammeintheordinarysenseoftheterm.EveryGreekis permeatedbyastronglydemocraticinstinct,whichisillustratedin theconstitutionbytheabolitionofalldegreesandtitlesofnobility. Onef o themostpromisingsymptomsoftheGreeksistheirin satiabledesireoflearning,inpursuingwhich,itistrue,theysome timesshowmoretalentthanperseverance.TherecognitionbyGreeks ofallclasses,thattheirgreatneed,alongsideofpoliticalmaturity, isgeneraleducation,isshownbytherapiddevelopmentoftheir systemofinstruction.InadditiontotheUniversity(p.93), the PolytechnicSchool(p.94)atAthens, andseveralothertechnical institutions,thekingdomofGreecenowpossesses40gymnasia, 1 modernorcommercialschool(atAthens),278so-calledHellenic orgrammarschools,2000nationalschools,and16-1700elementary schools.Thislistisexclusiveofprivateschools,whicharealso numerous.Instructionatnearlyallthepublicschoolsisgratui tous.Asoneresultofthis,anunnecessarilylargeproportionthe of IT.HET GREEKPEOPLE. li Greek youthsqualifythemselvesformedicine, law, andtheother literalprofessions.Thesesuperfluousmemhersofsociety,who mightdoubtlessheveryserviceableinahumblercapacity,are compelledtomakealivingbyextra-professionalactivity,andit is notsurprisingthatthissometimestakesdisagreeable a form.Com plaintsaremade,notonlybyforeignersbutalsobynatives,that avariceandadesireforill-gottengainarerifeandthattheunsus picioustoooftenfallapreytothewilesofthedeceiver. The Greeksinforeigncountriesshowtheirpatriotismasstrongly asthoseathome.ItisacommonoccurrenceforGreekswhohave madefortunesabroadtobequeathorpresenttheirwealthto their nativecountryfortheerectionofchurches,schools,ororphanages, theendowmentoflibraries,orsomesimilarobject.Anonymous giftsalsoflowrichlyintothesechannels. IncharactertheGreekischeerfulandlively.Heisfondof societyanddancing,buta foetoanythingapproachinglicenceor 'fastness'; evenhisdancinghassomethingceremonial,almostre ligiousaboutit.Thecountryman'swantsaresurprisinglyfewand simple.Ahandfulofolives,apiecepoor ofbread,andaglassof resinedwineformhismeal.Coffeeandtobaccoarehisonly luxuries.Divorceisgrantedonlyforadultery,whichisextremely rare.Themanycuriousobservancesatbirths,christenings,wed dings,andfuneralshavelatelybusiedthehistoricalinvestigator,as theyfrequentlybetrayremarkableresemblancetosimilarcustoms inantiquity.Thesameistrueofthepopularlegendsandtraditions. AmongthebestworksdealingwiththesesubjectsareDouglass'Essay oncertainpointsofresemblancebetweentheAncientandModernGreeks1 (London,1813); Wachsmuth's'DasalteGriechenlandimneuen' (Bonn,1864); BtmhardBchmidVs'VolkslebenderNeugriechenunddasHellenischeAlter- thum1(Leipzig,1871),andthesameauthor's'GrieehischeMarchen,Sagen andVolkslieder'(Leipzig,1877); Tozer'j'HighlandsofTurkey'(chaps.21, 29,Si30); andBent's'Cyclades'. IntheirIntercoursewithStrangerstheGreeksare friendly, civil,and,asarule,notofficiousorimportunate,thoughthemale inhabitantsofavillage,oldandyoung,maysometimesshowtheir curiositybyclusteringroundthetraveller.Offersofservice,such asarecommoninItaly,arerare.Thetouristthereforepursueshis waywithoutmolestation,though,whenhistimeIslimited,hemay missthesharplittleItalianragazzi,whoseemtodivinethestranger's intentionsbyinstinctandconducthimtothewishedforspotsfora feeofafewsoldi.Theinordinateideaof theimportanceoftrav ellersthatprevailsinS.ItalyisalsofoundinGreece;andthe lowerclassescherisha firm convictionthateveryforeigner(X00004, 'lord')isenormonslyrich. On arrivingatnightfallat aplaceforwhichhas henointro ductions,thetravellershouldapplytotheDemarchortothePare' *o«(therepresentativeoftheDemarchinthesmallervillages), loosewhowishtoavoidtherestraintsinseparablefromthisreliance *' d lii IV.CHURCHANDCLERGY. onhospitality(comp.p.xiii)mayprocurelodgingsthroughthe keeperofacafe"oreating-house. "Whentwoormorepersonsdrinkwineorcoffeetogether,it is theinvariablecustomofthecountrythatonememberofthecom panypaysforall.Thestrangerwillthusoftenfindhimselfthe recipientofhospitalityfromanative,whichcanscarcelyberefused. Hemustthereforeposponehis'revenge'toa similaropportunity,or orderwineforthecompanyandgivethepricetothe waiterassoon ashebringsit. The stringsofwoodenbeadscarriedbymenofallclassesare notrosariesforreligiouspurposes,butsimplysupplyamechanical occupationforthehandsduringconversation,etc.

Church andClergy.+ ThesupremeauthorityoftheChurchof GreeceistheSynodatAthens,consistingoffiveclericalandtwo laymembers.TheformerdependenceonthePatriarchofConstan tinoplehasnowshrunk,since1833andthe'SynodalTome'of1850, toafewexternalrightsandhonoursreservedtothepatriarch(the preparationoftheanointingoil,etc.).Thenormalnumberof Bishopricsis36,butmorethanahalfarevacant.Thosebishops whoseseatisthechieftownofprovince a bearthetitleofArch bishop.Celibacyisobligatoryforthebishops,butnotfortheor dinaryclergy,who,however,areforbiddentomarryasecondtime. Whenapriestismadeabishop,hemustrenouncehiswifeand children,theformerfrequentlyenteringanunnery. The chief representativesthelowerclergy, ofwhoincludeabbots andarchimandrites,arethePapddesorparishpriestsinthecountry. Everyonewhotravelsintheinteriorissuretocomeintomoreor lessintimaterelationswiththisclass,whoregardtheirsacredoffice asbindingthemtorepresenthospitality the oftheirvillages.Men tallyandsociallytheyarelittlesuperiortotheirparishioners,who frequentlyexceltheminmotherwitandmaterialprosperity.The differencebetweenthemconsistsmainlyinexternals,suchasthe longhairandbeardofthePapas,hisblackcap,andthehighcon icalcapandblackordarkgownhewearswhenengagedinthe servicesofthechurch.Inhisnon-professionalhoursthevillage priest,assistedbyhiswife,thePapadid,hastocarryonthesame agriculturallaboursasthepeasants.Thelowerclergyreceiveno paymentfromthestate,andthescantinessoftheirfeesfromother sourcesgenerallymakesitnecessaryforthemtoekeouttheirincome bysomeotheroccupation.Theparishpriestthusoftenkeepsa smallshoporevenatavern,inwhichhenotonlyhelpsthePapadia toservetheguestsbutisreadytomakeuptherequirednumber + Comp.DeanStanleyV'LecturesontheHistoryoftheEasternChurch (newed.,1883)andTozer't'TheChurchandtheEasternEmpire',inthe 'EpochsofChurchHistorySeries'(1888). IV. CHURCHCLERGY. AND liii for agameofcards.Allthis,however,doesnotdiminishthere spectin-whichtheclergyareheldbytheirflocks. Mosttravellerstake willaninterestin theGreekConvents,iffor nootherreasonthanthattheymustoftendependnpontheirhospital ity.Someofthem,suchastheMegaspelaeon(p.300)inthePelo ponnesus,resembleinnsintheirtreatmentoftravellers,except thatasarulenooneisadmittedaftersundown.Theconventsof Greece,199innumber,allbelongtotheorderofSt.Basil.The monk(Kalfigeroi,i.e.goodoldmen),about1650innumber,are dividedintotwomainclasses, theCocnobitic(xoivo{3idt%o(,those livingincommon)andtheIditirrhythmic(ioioppufyioi).Inthe Coenobiathemonkshaveeverythingincommon.Onenteringthe conventtheygenerallypresenttoit alltheirworldlypossessions, receivingareeateninunderexchangethepresidencytheirboardofandthelodging.abbot(rT]Yo6|j.evos)Thecommoninmealsthe refectory, whichisgenerallya longandlow-roofedapartment, adornedwithpaintingsfromsacredhistory; attabletheysiton woodenbencheswithoutbacks.Theabbot,whoiselectedfora limitedperiod,isbynomeansinvariablytheoldest,butisusually themostlearnedofthecommunity.Hispowerisalmostunlimited, andtheprosperityordecayof theconventiswhollyinhishands.— IntheIdiorrhythmicConventseachmonkownsacertainshareof theconventualproperty,andinparticularaspecialpieceofland whichhecultivateshimselforcausestobecultivated.Thedis posaloftheproducefallingtohimisathisowndiscretion.Each monkhas usuallya 'famulus'assignedtohim,whoinheritshis possessionsandposition.Theconventisdirectedbyagoverning body,ohoseneveryfiveyears,consistingofaHegoumenos,orabbot, andtwoSymbouloi.—Thereare6nunneries(ca.260nuns)in Greece,chieflyontheislands. ThecontrastbetweentheGreekOrthodoxorNationalChurch andtheRomanCatholicChubchisverymarked.TheRoman CatholicsGreece, of26-30,000innumber(chieflyintheCyclades), havethreearchbishops(atAthens,Naxos,andCorfu)andfive bishops(Tenos,Santorini,Syra,Zante,andKephallenia).Atthe headstandsthearchbishopofAthens,as <£tcoutoXixo4eir(TpoTro4. oProbablyn othercountrycontainssomanyPlacesofWoe- shipasGreece,intheformofchurches,chapels,or'Brimoklisia' (ruinedchapels).Nomatterhowscantytheruinsof achapelmay be,thenameof thesainttowhomitwasdedicatedstillclingsto thespot; thepriestprobablyconductsaservicehereonthename- dayofthesaint,whilea smalllamporwoodencrossremindsthe wayfarerthatahouseofGodoncestoodhere.Toremovetheruins andtodriveaploughoverasacredsitewouldbeconsideredacrime now,justasitwasbytheancientGreeks. . Thebest-preservedexamplesofmediaval(mainlyByzantine) churchesandchapelsare,Athens, at theso-calledSmallMetropolis liv V.CHRONOLOGICALSURVEY (p. 80),theKapnikaraa(p.81),andtheChurchofHagiaIhtodora; nearAthens,theConventofDaphni(p.116);andintherestof Greece,theConventChurchHag. ofLoukasStiritis(p.159),the Panagla-ChurchofShripou(p.193),thebasilicaoftheHag.Paras- keveatChalkis(p.206); andnumerouschurchesandchapelsat Mistra(p.281)andMonemvasia(p.262). With theexceptionofafewlargechurchestheground-plan andinternalarrangementsofallthesesacrededificesaresimilar. ThroughtheNarthex,orvestibule,weenterthemainbodyofthe church,whichisseparatedfromthesemicircularConche(i.e.shell), orapse,bytheTemplon,apartitionofwoodormasonrypiercedby threedoors.Thelargeredificesarelightedbyside-windows,the smalleronlybythenarrowopeningoftheConche"andbythedoor. IntheConche",behindtheTemplon,standsthe'HolyTable',or altar,coveredwithanaltar-clothandbearingtheGospels,theser vicebook,tabletswithpaintingsofsaints,and(generally)acruci fix.Therichestornamentationandthefinestpaintingsareused toadorntheTemplon.[Statuesorimagesinreliefareconsidered hereticalbytheGreekchurch.]Thecentraldoor,throughwhich thepriestandthekingarealoneallowedtoenterthesanctuary,] isusuallycoveredbyamovablepaintingofChristosPautokrator; andtheotherpicturesgenerallyincluderepresentationsofthe Panagia,orVirginandChild,andHagiosJohannesPr6dromos(John theBaptist).Theservice,whichiscarriedonbythelightofnumer ouswaxcandles,consistsin thechantingoftheliturgyandin variousactsofritual.Thelaymenpartakeofboththebreadand wineintheHolyCommunion,leavenedwheatenbread(apTO?) beingsoakedinamixtureofwineandwaterandofferedtothe communicantinspoon. a V.ChronologicalSurveyofGreekHistory. Neitherinancientnorinmediaevaltimesisitpossibletospeakofa general historyofGreece;wehaveonlytheseparaterecordsofdifferent townsanddistricts.TheattemptsataPanhellenicpolicywhichareas sociatedwiththenameofPerikieswereofapurelyephemeralcharacter; thepoliticalimportanceoftheAmphictyonieswasslightandmuchin feriortotheirreligiousimportance;andthestruggleoftheMacedonian dynastytowinthehegemonyofGreecehadonlyanapparentsuccessin GreeceitselfandfinallyledtotheinterventionoftheRomansandthe dissolutionoftheGreekunion.Nottillthepresentcenturywerethe Greeksabletoregaintheirindependenceandestablishaunitedkingdom. More detailedaccountswillbefoundinthehistoricalsummaries underthenamesofthemoreimportanttowns,suchasAthens,Sparta, Thebes,Corinth,Argos,Mycenee,andMessene. I. FromtheEarliestTimestothePersianWars. ca.2000.ThePelasgians,theearliest(Semitic?)inhabitantsof Greece. ca. 1600.TheHellenes(jEoliansorAchffians,Ionians,andDo rians). OF GREEKHISTORY. lv ca. 1194-84.TrojanWar. ca.1104.DoricMigrations:theDoriansundertheHerakleidae conqnerthePeloponnesns. 1068.TheDoriansthreatenAthens;deathofKodros,last Kingf o Athens. 1000.jEolic,Ionic,andDoriccoloniesonthecoastofAsia Minorandontheislands.HomerandtheCyclicPoets, ca.820.LegislationofLykourgosatSparta. 776.CommencementoftheOlympiads. 743-24.FirstMessenianWar.Aristodemos.DestructionofIthome. 734.SyracusefoundedbytheCorinthians. 707.Tarentum(Taras)foundedbytheSpartans. 645-28.SecondMessenianWar.Aristomenes.ContestsatIra. TyrtaeosencouragestheSpartansbyhismartialsongs. 612.621.RebellionLegislationoftheAlkmfflonidffl.ofofKylonDracoatatAthensAthens.; hismurder;expulsion

600-590.bySacredAthensWarand; KrissaSikyon.andKirrhaattackedanddestroyed 594.LegislationofSolonatAthens. 560.PeisistratosbecomestyrantofAthens.TheGreciancol oniesinAsiaMinorbecomedependentonthePersians. 527.Peisistratosdies.HissonsHippiasandHipparchossuc ceedtothetyranny. 514. HipparchosslainbyHarmodiosandAristogeiton. 610. ExpulsionofHippias(d.490)fromAthens.Reform ofSolon'scodebyKleisthenes,Alkmaronid. the II. FromthePersianWarstoAlexandertheGreat. 500-494.InsurrectionoftheIonicGreeksunderHistlaeosof MiletosandAristagoras. 492. FirstPersianExpeditionagainstGreece.ThePersian fleetunderMardoniosiswreckednearMt.Athos. 490.SecondPersianExpedition,underDatisandArtapher- nes.BattleMarathon of (Miltiades). 489.UnsuccessfulcampaignofMiltiadesagainstParos. DeathofMiltiades. 480. ThirdPersian Expedition,underXerxes.BattleofTher mopylae(Leonidas).NavalbattlesofArtemisionand Salamis(EurybiadesofSparta,ThemistoklesofAthens). Pindar'sOdes.Tragediesof^schylus(d.456). 479. truggle S withthePersiansleftinGreece,underMar donios.BattleofPlatsea(PausaniasofSparta,Aristeides cfAthens).—NavalbattleofMykale(Leotychidesof Sparta,XanthipposofAthens). 478.HegemonyofGreecetransferredtoAthens.Foundation ofaHellenicSymmachia. Ivi V. CHRONOLOGICALSURVEY 462. BanishmentofThemistokles(d.448).—ca.467.Death ofFansanias. 460. KimonvictoriousbyseaandlandattheriverEury- medon.ConquestoftheChersonesus. 459-460.ThirdMessenianWar.Athenianauxiliariessenthack bytheSpartans.LeagueoftheAthenianswiththe Argives(457). 456-450.Unsuccessfulcampaignof theAtheniansinEgypt. 456. AtheniansdefeatedinArgolis; victoriousatseaagainst theunitedfleetoftheCorinthians,Epidaurians,and ^Eginetans. 466.BanishmentofKimonfromAthens. 456-461.WarbetweenAthensandSpartaandBceotia.Defeat oftheAtheniansbytheSpartansatTanagra(467). VictoryoftheAtheniansovertheBoeotians(456)at Ginophyta.Conquestof^Egina.RecallofKimon(464). TrucebetweenAthensandSparta(461). 449. NavalwarwithPersia.DeathofKimonduringthesiege ofKitioninCyprus.AthenianfleetvictoriousatSa- lamisinCyprus.EndofthePersianwars. 446.ThirtyYears'PeacebetweentheAthenianandPelo- ponnesianLeagues.AgeofPerikles.Polygnotos,the painter; Phidias,thesculptor;IktinosandMnesikles, thearchitects.HistoryofHerodotus.TragediesofSo phocles(d.406). 431-404.PeloponnesianWar.Thucydides,thehistorian.Tra gediesofEuripides(d.406).ComediesofAristophanes. Hippokrates,thephysician;Polykleltos,thesculptor. SocratesandtheSophists. 431.PlataeasurprisedbytheThebans.InvasionofAttica bytheSpartans. 430. TheplagueatAthens.—429.DeathofPerikles. 428. TheislandofLesbosrevoltsfromAthens,butisre captured(427). 427. FallofPlatsea.ProsperousexpeditionofDemosthenes toAcarnanla. 425. DemostheneslandsinMesseniaandfortifiesPylos. BrasidastheSpartanoccupiestheislandofSphakteria. Kleon, theAthenian,capturesSphakteria. 424.KytheraoccupiedbytheAthenians.InvasionofBoeotia. The AtheniansdefeatedatDelion. 422.BattleofAmphipolis.ThevictoriousBrasidasdiesof hiswounds,Kleonfallsintheflight 421.PeaceofNikias. 418.BattleofMantinea.TheunitedAtheniansandArgives defeatedy b theSpartans. 416.CaptureofMelosbytheAthenians. OF GREEKHISTORY. lvti 415-413.AthenianexpeditiontoSicily,underAlkibiades,Niklas, andLamachos.Alkibiades,prosecutedforimpiety,flees totheSpartans.DestructionoftheAthenianarmyand fleetnearSyracuse(413). 413. TheSpartans,onthe adviceofAlklbiades,occupyDe- keleiaandforma leaguewiththePersiansagainst Athens.RevoltofthealliesofAthens. 412. Vic-toryoftheAthenianfleetatMiletos. 411. OverthrowoftheAtheniandemocraticconstitution. CouncilofFourHundred.RecallAlkibiades. of Naval victoryoftheAtheniansatAbydos. 410.VictoryofAlkibiadesovertheSpartanfleetatKyzikos. Athensrecovershernavalsupremacy. 407. LysandertheSpartandefeatstheAthenianfleetatNo tion.Alkibiadesdeposed(d.404). 406. VictoryoftheAthenianfleetofftheArginussaBIslands. 405.LysanderoverthrowsthenavalpowerofAthensatthe battlejEgospotami. of 404.AthenssurrenderstoLysander.TheThirtyTyrants. 403.ThrasyboulosrestorestheDemocracy. 401. CampaignofCyrustheyoungeragainsthisbrotherAr- taxerxesMnemon.BattleofKunaxa.Retreatofthe TenThousandunderXenophon. 400. PaintingatitszenithunderZeuxisParrhasios. and 399.DeathofSocrates. 396-394.WarofSpartaagainstthePersians.Agesilaos,the Spartan,victoriousinAsia(396). 395-387.CorinthianWar.ConfederationofCorinth,Thebes, Argos,andAthensagainstSparta. 395.BattleofHaliartos.DeathofLysander,theSpartan. 394. BattleofKnidos.TheSpartanfleetdefeatedbyKonon ofAthensandPharnabazosthePersian.—Battleof Koroneia.DefeatofthealliesbyAgesilaos. 387. Antalkidas,theSpartan,concludespeacewiththePer sians.—Plato(d.347).Isokrates(d.338). 379-362.WarbetweenSpartaandThebes.ThebesfreedbyPe- lopidas. 377. Foundationof anavalleaguebytheAtheniangenerals Ohabrias,Iphikrates,andTimotheos. 371. BattleofLeuktra.EpaminondasdefeatstheSpartans. HegemonyofThebes. 370. TheThebansenterthePeloponnesus.Messeniare coversitsindependence.Megalopolisisfoundedasthe capitalofArcadia. 364. BattleofKynoskephalae.DeathofthevictoriousPelo- pidas. 362.BattleofMantinea.DeathofthevictoriousEpaminondas. lviii V.CHRONOLOGICALSURVEY 359. PhilipII.ofMacedon.—Agesilaossupportsthein surrectioninEgypt.Diesonhisvoyagehome(358). Demosthenes(d.322).Praxiteles,thesculptor. 357-355.WarofthealliesagainstAthens.ContestsoftheAthe nianswithPhilipforAmphipolis. 355-346.SacredWaragainstPhocis. 352. Philip,victoriousinThessaly,checkedhytheAthenians atThermopylae. 348. OlynthosisdestroyedbyPhilip. 346.PeacebetweenPhilipandAthens.jEschines. 340.PhilipconquersThraceandbesiegesByzantium.Athens declareswaragainstMmandforceshimtoraisethesiege. 339,338.SacredWaragainstAmphissa. 338.BattleofChaeronea.ThevictoriousPhilipischosen leaderoftheHellenesagainstthePersians.

m.FromAlexandertheGreattotheDestructionofCorinth. 336.' MurderofPhilipII.AlexanderascendstheMacedonian throne.—Aristotle.Diogenes.Lysippos,thesculptor. ApellesandProtogenes,thepainters. 336. AlexanderdestroysThebes. 334.AlexanderInAsia.BattleoftheGranikos. 333. BattleofIssos.—332.SiegeofTyre.Foundationof Alexandria.—331.BattleArbela. of 330. MurderofDariusKodomannos.—RevoltoftheSpar tans.DeathofKingAgisII.atMegalopolis. 327.Alexander'sexpeditiontoIndia. 323.DeathofAlexander.Warbreaksamong outhissucces sors(the'Diadochi'). 323,322.The LamianWar. 321. MurderofPerdikkas.—319.DeathofAntipater. 306.AntigonosandDemetriosPoliorketesassumetheroyal title. 301.BattleofIpsos.DeathofAntigonos.—The.dJtolian League. 300. EpicurusandZeno,the philosophers.Thecomediesof Menander. 296.DeathofKassander. 280TheAchaeanLeague. 287-275.Pyrrhos,KingofEpirus(d.272),inItaly.—The Gauls invadeMacedoniaandGreece. 278.AntigonosGonatasrulesinMacedonia. 272.DeathofPyrrhosofEpirus. 251.Aratos,generaloftheAchaean League,deliversSikyon. 241.AgisIV.,KingofSparta,endeavourstoreformthestate. 225.KleomenesIII.,ofSparta,overthrowstheEphors, OF GREEKHISTORY. lix 2*21.BattleofSellasla.TheAchaeansandMacedoniansdefeat Kleomenes(d.219). 220-217.SocialWar,betweenthejEtolianandAchaeanLeagues. 215. AllianceofPhilipIV.Macedon of withHannibal,and ofthejEtolianLeaguewiththeRomans(FirstMace donianWar). 207.Philopcemen(the'LastoftheGreeks'),generalofthe Achaean League,defeatstheSpartansatMantinea. 206.PeacebetweenPhilipV.andtheiEtolians. 200. WarbetweenPhilipV.andtheRomans(SecondMa cedonianWar). 197.BattleofKynoskephalae:defeatoftheMacedoniansby Flamininus,theRomanConsul.Flamlninusdeclares theGreekstatesfree. 190.BattleofMagnesia.VictoryoftheRomansoverAn- tiochosofSyria.Closeofthe^EtolianLeague. 171-168.WarbetweenPerseusofMacedoniaandtheRomans (ThirdMacedonianWar). 168. ^EmiliusPaulusdefeatsPerseusatPydna. 148. WarbetweentheAchaeanLeagueandtheRomans. VictoryoftheRomansatSkarpheia. 146. DestructionofCorinth.CloBeoftheAchaeanLeague. GreeceandMacedoniaunitedtoformtheRomanpro vinceofMacedonia. IV.GreeceundertheRomansandByzantines. ca. 133.RevoltoftheslavesinAttica. 88-87.TheGreekstakepartintheMithridaticWar. 86.AthenscapturedbySulla.—Sulla'svictoryatChae- ronea. 85.Sulla's victoryatOrchomenos. 48. CaesardefeatsPompeyatthebattlePharsalos. of —42. AntonyOctavlanus and defeatBrutusandCassiusat Philippi.—31.OctavlanusdefeatsAntonyatActium. 31B.C.-14.A.D.Augustusemperor.GreeceaRomanprovinceun derthenameofAchaea.Revivaloftheleaguesamong thedistrictsofGreece. 117-138.Hadrian.BuildingserectedatAthensother andparts ofGreece.HerodesAtticus,thesophist,inAthens, ca.170.PausaniaswriteshisdescriptionofGreece. 249-251.Decius.FirstappearanceoftheGothsontheborders ofGreece. 263-260.Valerian.FortificationofAthens. 260-268.TheGothsinAttica.DefenceofAthensDexippos. by 323-337.ConstantlnetheGreat.—TriumphofChristianity. 361-363.TheEmperorJulianfavourstheGreeks.Unsuccessful effortstorehabilitatepaganism. Is V. CHRONOLOGICALSURVEY 379-395.TheodosiusLTheOlympianGamescelebratedforthe lasttime(393).AlaricandhisGothsdestroyEleusis, occupyAthens(395),andravagePeloponnesus. the 395.PartitionoftheRomanempire. 467-477.InvasionsoftheVandals. 527-566.JustinianI.emperor. 529. JustinianclosestheSchoolsofPhilosophyatAthens. 540.SlavonicinvasionofIlellas. 588.AvarsandSlavsinthePeloponnesus. 717-741.LeoIII.emperor.—727.RevoltoftheGreeks,andun successfulnavalexpeditionagainstConstantinople. 746,747.devastated Greecehytheplague.SpreadoftheSla vonicelementinthePeloponnesus. 806.?DefeatoftheSlavsatPatras. 867-886.BasilLemperor.ConversionoftheSlavsinthePelo ponnesus.Photiosbecomespatriarch.Beginningof theecclesiasticalschismbetweentheRomanandEastern churches,whichcametoaheadin1064. 1019.EmperorBasilII.defeatstheBulgarianinvadersof GreeceatThermopylaeandAthens.TheAlbanians maketheirfirstappearance. 1040.TheNorwegianVarangiansunderHaroldHaardrada enterAthens. 1084. TheNormansinThessaly.VictoriousdefenceofLarissa. 1204.Constantinoplebythe takenCrusaders.Latinempire foundedatConstantinople.BonifacedeMontferrat (d.1207),KingofThessalonica,conquersBceotiaand Attica.OthodelaRochebecomesrulerofAthensand Boeotia('Megaskyr'orArch-LordofAthensin1205). —GeoffreydeVillehardouinconquerstheW.coastsof thePeloponnesusbutisembarrassedbyanativerevolt. 1206. GuillaumedeChamplitteassistsVillehardouinand becomesfirstPrinceoftheMorea. 1206. ModonandKoronoccupiedbytheVenetians. 1207-1222.Demetrius,KingofThessalonica. 1209.GuillaumedeChamplittereturnstoFrance,leaving Villehardouinasover-lord. 1210. GeoffreyI.deVillehardouinbecomessecondPrinceof theMorea.CaptureofCorinth. 1211,1212.VillehardouincapturesNaupliaandArgos. 1218. DeathofVillehardouin.HissonGeoffreyII.(d.1245), third PrinceoftheMorea,isrecognizedasDukeofAchtea by theLatinemperorPeterdeCourtenay. 1222.TheodoreAngelosComnenosconquersThessalonica ands i crownedasemperor. 1246.GuillaumeII.succeedshisbrotherGeoffreyasfourth fPrinceo theMorea(d.1278). OF GREEKHISTORY. lxl 1246.TheEmperorJohnIII.VatatzesofNicaeareunites ThessalonicaiththeByzantine w empire. 1248.Monemvasiaisconqueredby GuillaumeII.ofAchsea. 1256-1259.Guillaume'scontestswithGuyI.ofAthens,theMar graveofBoudonitza,andtheDynastofNegroponte. 1259-1282.MichaelVIII.Palseologus,Byzantineemperor. 1260.GuyI.madeDukeofAthens. 1261.MichaelconquersConstantinople.Fallthe ofLatin dynasty. 1262.Guillaumen.oftheMorea,takenprisonerin1259 by Michael,purchaseshisfreedombysurrenderingMon emvasia,theMaina,andMistra. 1267. BsuperiorityaldwinII.,ofthethelastMoreaLatintoCharlesemperor,ofcedesAnjou.thefeudal 1308.TheduchyofAthensfallstoGantierdeBrienne. 1311.OverthrowoftheFrankishknightsbytheCatalonian mercenaries.Gautieriskilled. 1312. RogerDeslaurbecomesDukeofAthens. 1364.DeathofRobertofTarentum,lastPrinceofAcha?a. 1380.theJacquesMorea.deBaux(d.1383),nephewofRobert,conquers 1389.NaupliaistakenbytheVenetians. 1394. RainerioAcciajuoli,LordofCorinth,becomesDuke ofAthens.—ArgosistakenbytheVenetians. 1395.TheodoreI.Palawlogus(1383-1407)recoversCorinth. 1396. PierreBordeauxdeSaint-Superan(d.1402)isrecogniz edasPrinceoftheMoreabyKingLadislausofNaples. 1404.CenturioneZaccariaofGenoabecomesPrinceofthe Morea (d.1432). 1430.TheMoreaisrecoveredbythePalseologi. 1435.ThebesistakenbytheTurks. 1463.MohammedII.conquersConstantinople.Fall of the ByzantineEmpire. V. reece G undertheOttomans. 1456.AthensiscapturedbytheTurksunder Omar. 1460.TheTurksconquerthePeloponnesus,withtheexcep tionthe ofVenetianpossessions. 1462.OmarattacksModonandKoron. 1463. ArgosisbetrayedtotheTurksbutrecapturedbythe Venetians. 1464.TheVenetiangeneralCapelloseizesEubceaandtem porarilyoccupiesAthens. 1470. EubffiatakenfromtheVenetiansbytheTurks. H99-1501.SultanBajazetII.drivestheVenetiansoutofLe- panto,Modon,Koron,andNavarino,andbesiegesNau pliaandMonemvasiaunsuccessfully. lxii V.CHRONOLOGICALSURVEY. 1603. PeacebetweentheTurksandVenetians. 1540.NaupliaandMonemvasiacapturedbytheTurks. 1573. PeaceconcludedbytheVenetiansandTurks,leaving thelatterin possessionofthewholeofGreece. 1645-1669.UnsuccessfulwaroftheVenetiansagainsttheTurks. 1685-1699.ConquestoftheMoreabytheVenetians. 1716. TheMoreaagaintakenbytheTurks. 1718.PeaceofPassarovitz,confirmingtheTurksinthepos sessionoftheMorea. ■1770.LandingoftheRussiansunderOrloffinLaconia.Re voltoftheGreeks,suppressedbythePortewiththe aidoftheAlbanians. 1779.HassanPashadefeatstheinsurgentAlbaniansatTri- politza. 1814. TheHetaerfaPhilike"('associationoffriends')founded atOdessa(headquartersremovedtoConstantinoplein 1818). 1815.TheBritishtakepossessionoftheIonianIslands. 1821.AlexanderYpsilantis,generaloftheHetaeria,crosses thePruthandsummonstheHellenestotheWarof Independence.Successfulrisingthe inMorea. 1822.DefeatofDramalisbyKolokotronisandNikitas.Defeat oftheGreeksatPetaby KourshidPasha.Athensis takenbytheGreeks. 1823.DefeatofOmerVrionesatKarpenisibytheGreeks. 1824.Party-strifesamongtheGreeks. 1826.IbrahimPashareducestheMorea. 1826. FallofMesolonghi.TheTurksunderKioutagicapture Athens. 1827. JohannesKapodistriaselectedregent.Navalbattleof Navarino.CapitulationoftheGreekgarrisoninthe AcropolisatAthens. 1828. Ibrahimquits PashatheMorea.LandingoftheFrench. 1829. ProtocolofLondon.Greecedeclaredahereditarymon archybuttributarytothePorte. 1830.SecondProtocolofLondon.Greecedeclaredaninde pendentsovereign andkingdom. 1831. AssassinationofJohannesKapodistrias.Hisbrother Augustineiselectedpresident. 1832. AugustineKapodistriasresigns.PrinceOthoofBavaria isproclaimedking. VI.TheKingdomofGreece. 1833. KingOtholandsinGreece.Regencyappointed. 1835. Thekingcomesofage.Armansptrg,theBavarian 1836.Armanspergappointedchancellor.isdismissed. VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxiii 1843.InsurrectioninAthens.Aconstitutionisgranted. 1850.TheBritishfleetblockadesthePiraeus. 1864.TheFrenchtake possessionofthePiraeusandofthe Greekfleet(until1857). 1862.InsurrectionsinGreece.Departureoftheking. 1863. PrinceWilliamofSonderburg-Gliicksburg,sonofthe KingofDenmarkandbrotherofthePrincessofWales, iselectedkingandascendsthethroneasGeorgiosI. 1864.reat GBritaincedestheIonianIslandstoGreece.A newconstitutionispromulgated. 1881. ConferenceofConstantinople.TurkeycedesThessaly and partofEpirustoGreece. 1886.BlockadeofthePiraeusbytheEuropeanPowers. VI.HistoryofGreekArt. ByProf.ReinhardKekule. 'AncientArt',ortheartofclassicalantiquity,isusuallycontrasted withlaterChristianart,asthoughitwereonehomogeneouswhole, whereasin realityitembracesthechangesandtransformationsof morethanathousandyears.Itwasaffectedbyallthemodifying influencesofthesuccessiveleadershipofdifferentraces,by wide oscillationsinthepositionofthepoliticalandintellectualcentresof gravity,andbytheantagonisticprincipleswhichmustinevitably makethemselvesfeltinthe courseofanationaldevelopment. PeriklesandAlexander,CaesarandConstantinoarelandmarksin artisticaswellasinpoliticalhistory.AtAthens,underPerikles, Greekartattainednotonlyperfectindependenceandfreedom,but alsoitahighestandnoblestexpression.UnderAlexanderGrecian cultureandartoverflowedintoAsia,whenceitsearliestgerms hadbeenderived.RomeherselfwasHellenistic,andtheruins andbrokenformsofpaganismbecamethefoundationonwhich waserectedtheentireframeworkofChristianartandcultureand oftheChristianreorganisationofsociety.Theinheritedinfluence oftheGraeco-Romanformsispotentevenatthepresentday, whilethegermsofthesameformsmaybedetectedinagesan teriortotheexistenceoftheGreeksthemselves.Regionsfarre movedfromAthensreturnechoesoftheAtticspirit;therearere liefsatTreves,ontheRhine,andinAustria,thedesignofwhich mayberetracedtotheHermesofPraxiteles.Butsuchextended limitsofspaceandtimecanbeassignedtoGreekartanditsdevel opmentsonlywhenthetermisusedinitsmostcomprehensive sense.Whatwemustconsiderasitskernelandessence,asitspe culiarcontentandtruecharacteristic,—viz.thefreshandmoment- ooiachievementofthenationalHellenicspirit,andthegainto kamauitywhichresultedfromit,—wasaccomplishedwithinacom parativelyshorttimeandwithinthenarrowlimitsofGreeceproper. VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. The firstOlympiadwas1100yearsbeforethetimeofConstantine, 732yearsbeforeCaesar'sdeath,and440yearsbeforeAlexanderas cendedthethrone;thebattleofLeuktrawasfought119yearsafter Marathon.The'AgeofPerikles',anexpressionsynonymouswith an undisturbedperiodofthehighestartisticattainment,wasrestricted, ifwedefineitsharply,toaperiodasshortasthatwhichcomprised thelifeandworksofRaphael;anditsmarvellousachievements werefarmoreexclusivelyconfinedtothemother-cityofPerikles andPhidiasthanwasatonetimesupposed. Modernscience,art,andcultureowetheirfirstacquaintance withGreekart,aswellaswithGreekantiquitygenerally,toRome, who,asmistresstheworld, of collectedwithinherwallsalltheele mentsofancientcultureandpreservedthemforposterity.Impe rialRomewasfullofart-treasures,newandold.Victoriouscam paignsandtheschemesofpoliticians, privatetasteandartistic perception,liberalityandavarice,delightinaestheticornamentand thefashionofthehour,riches,luxury,thelustoftheeyeandthe prideoflife,allcombinedtoheapupnewtreasures.Themosthighly prizedworksofthebestGreekmasterswerecopiedagainand again; ofsomeofthemostadmiredstatuesmorethanadozen facsimileshavebeenfound.Itishardlypossiblethattherewerenot alsooriginalworksamongtheinexhaustiblesuppliesofstatuesat Rome.Butthemostcostlyobjectsarethemostexposedtodestruc tion.TheRomanpatricianswouldhardlyhaveremovedarchaic worksfromGreeceingreatnumbersunlessthereweresomeper sonal,historical,orotherinterestconnectedwiththem.Thepro ductionsofthemostfamousmasterswere,ifattainableatall,always costly.Inanycasetheywerebutahandfulcomparedwiththe universaldemand,tomeetwhich,therefore,aflourishingtradein copiesofworksofthebestperiodsprangup.Thesplendidmarbles oftheRomanmuseumsthusdonotalwaysfaithfullyrepresentthe epochstowhichtheyactuallyowetheirorigin; andinexamining themwemustcarefullyandlaboriouslydiscriminatetheconception oftheoriginalinventorfromwhathasbeenintentionallyorunin tentionallyaddedbythecopyistorremodeller.Theimportanceof thelargedetachedsculptureswhichoriginatedinRomeitselfis comparativelyslight;themoststrikingandthemostnationally Romanarethoseonbuildingsandmonumentsofvictory,likethe ArchofTitusandTrajan'sColumn.TheRomanspiritexpressed itselfmostpotentlyinextensivebuildings. It wasfromthematerialthusaffordedbyRomethat'WmcKBi,- mannformedtheviewswhichhepublishedin1764inhisHistory ofAncientArt,thefirstclassicrepresentationofancientart-history. Enthusiasticallyadmiredbythegreatestamongitsauthor'scoun trymenoflastcentury(Goethe,Schiller,Lessing,Herder),this workmaystillclaimtolaydownthegeneralprinciplesofits subject,althoughitisnolongerregardedasafinalauthority. VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. Ixv Winckelmanncontraststhelimitedsubjectsandtreatmentof EgyptianartwiththefreediversityofGreekart.Theformerappeared tohimsouniformthathecomparesittoacarefullycultivatedtree, suddenlycheckedandstoppedinitsgrowthbythecanker-wormor bysomeaccident,whiletheunfetteredlifeofthelatter,obeyingthe lawsofalllife,grows,blossoms,fades,anddies.'Foraseveryaction oreventhasriveparts,andasitwere,fivestages,—namelybegin ning,progress,stateofrest,decrease,andend,—inwhichliesthe groundoftherivescenesoractsindramaticpieces,—soitiswith thesuccessionoftimeinart; butsincethecloseofartisbeyondits bounds,sothereareproperlyonlyfourperiodsinitforconsidera tionhere.ThemoreancientstylelasteduntilPhidias; through himandtheartistsofhistimeartattaineditsgreatness..Thisstyle maybecalledthegreatandlofty.FromthetimeofPraxitelesto thatofLysippusandApelles,artacquiredmoregraceandpleas- ingness; thisstyleshouldbenamedthebeautiful.Somelittletime subsequenttotheseartistsandtheirschool,artbegantodecline amongtheirimitators; andwemightnowaddathirdstyle,thatof theimitators,untilartgraduallyboweditselftoitsfall'(Lodge's Translation).—Ofthisearlystylehesays: —'thedrawingwas vigorousbuthard; powerfulbutwithoutgrace; andthestrengthof expressiondetractedfrombeauty.Butastheartoftheearliest ageswasdevotedonlytogodsandheroes,whosepraise,asHorace says,accordsnotwiththesoftlyre,thisveryhardnessprobablyco operatedtogivegrandeurtothefigures.Art,likejusticeinthose days,whichinflicteddeathforthesmallestoffence,wassevereand hard.Aswecomprehendundertheolderstylethelongerperiod of Greekart,thisdescriptionistobeunderstoodwithsomereser vations,dependingonthedifferentstagesprogress of duringthat period,inwhichthelaterworksmusthavebeenveryunlikethe earlier'. Truthandbeautyofform wereattainedbypracticeinmascu line,althoughsomewhathardandsharplymarked,outlines.'Fin allyatthetimewhenGreeceattaineditshighestdegreeofrefine mentandfreedom,artalsobecamemoreunfetteredandlofty; for theolderstylewasconstructeduponasystemcomposedofrules which,thoughoriginallyderivedfromnature,hadafterwardsde partedfromitandbecomeideal.Theartistwroughtmoreincon formitytotheserulesthantonature,theobjectofimitation,forart hadcreatedforitselfanatureofitsown.Theimproversofartele vatedthemselvesabovethisadoptedsystem,anddrewnearertothe trothofnature,bywhichtheyweretaughttothrowaside,flow for ingoutlines,thehardnessoftheolderstyle,withitsprominentand abruptlyendingpartsofthefigure,tomaketheviolentpositions andactionsmorerefinedandbecoming,andtodisplayintheir workslessscience,andmorebeauty,loftiness,andgrandeur'.'Now, ifthefundamentalprincipleofthegrandstyle,was,asitappears, Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. e lxvi VI.HISTORYGREEK OFART. to representthecountenanceandattitudeofthegodsandheroesas freefromemotion,andnotagitatedhyinwardperturbation,inan equilibriumoffeeling,andwithapeaceful,alwayseven,stateof mind,weseewhyacertaingracewaswanting; noattempteven wasmadetointroduceit'. Winckelmann'santithesisbetweentheloftystyleandthebeauti fulstyleculminatesinhisfamousdescriptionoftheTwoGraces. "OneisliketheheavenlyVenus,ofhigherbirth,thedaughterof harmony;sheisconstantandunchangeable,evenasthelawsof harmony.TheotherGraceis,liketheVenus,daughterofDione, moresubjecttotheinfluenceof matter.SheisadaughterofTime, andonlyafolloweroftheformer,ortheheavenlyGrace,whom sheannouncestothosewhoarenotdevotedtoherservice.She descendsfromherloftinessandrevealsherselfkindly,withouthu miliation,tothosewhoturntheireyesuponher;thoughnoteager toplease,sheisnotwillingtoremainunknown.Buttheformer Grace,anassociateofallthedeities,appearstobesufficientto herself.Shedoesnotofferherselfunsolicited,shewishestobe sought;sheistooelevatedevertobemuchanobjectofsense; for, asPlatosays,'thereisno formcapableofexpressingthehighest'. Sheconversesonlywiththewise; tothemasssheappearsforbid dingandunamiable.Sheconcealstheemotionsof hersoul,and bringsherselfneartotheblissfulserenityofthe divinenature,of whichthegreatartists,astheancientswrite,soughttodelineate animage". Thesecharacteristicsarewrittenforalltime withanironpen. Thedivisionintoperiodsisalsoindispensableforawell-ordered andcomprehensiveviewofthesubject.But Winckelmann'sfor mulasaretoosimple;do theynotexhaustthefulnessoflifein natureandart.Thevariousperiods,thedifferentschools,each withinitsownlimits,showgrowth,blossom,anddecay.Norisdecay alwaysdeath.EveninGreeceitselfit issometimesonlyatransfor mation,producingnewbutnotlessmarvellousformsasembodi mentsoftherevivingconceptionsofthemind.Wearenowforced torecogniseaTitanicboldnessandfinishedcreativemastershipin periods,which,accordingtoWinckelmann'sgreatscheme,should showonlyfeeblenessandprettinessasthesuccessorsofthepreced ingloftinessandbeauty.FortunatelyforusWinckelmannhadno adequateideaofthefragmentarynatureofthematerialsoutof whichherearedhisimposingedifice; forhadheknownit,boldas hewas,hewouldperhapshavehesitatedbeforehistask.Sincehis timemanyobjectscastinglightonthehistoryofarthavebeenfound evenRoman on soil.Butthegreatestfloodoflighthasbeenshed fromthemother-countryofGreekart,fromGreeceitself,thesource whichhehimselfpresagedwhentheideaofexcavationsatOlympia occurredtohim.TheoriginalGreekworksareindeed,toalarge extent,nolongerintheirnativehome.MostoftheParthenon VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxvii sculptures,thefriezefromPhigaleia,andtheobjectsdiscoveredat KnidosandHalikarnassosareinLondon,whichhaslongpossessed thefinestcollectionsofhoththelargerandsmallerworksofartfrom GreeceandAsiaMinor; thejEginetanmarblesareatMunich; the SamothrakianNikeandvarioussculpturesfromOlympiaareamong theseumnumerousofBerlinotherhasattainedexamplesanofundreamedGreekartinofParisimportance; andthethroughmn- thepossessionofthePergamenesculptures.Neverthelessthe travellerinGreeceisnotreducedtomerelyrecallingthemuseums ofItalyandthenorthernnations: — 'Whowouldapoetunderstand 'Mustvisitfirstthepoet'sland.' Greekartmorethananyotherseemstohavesuckedinits strengthfromthesoilonwhichitgrew.LordElgincouldnotcarry offHomer'ssun,northerocksandsea,northeancientcitadels, northetemples,whichevenintheirruinsinspireadmirationand awe.Greeceaboundsinbeautifulandinstructivemonumentsand remains; andeverystepmadeintheorderingofthenewstate isfraughtwithhopeforitsancientpossessions.LordElgin,inre movingthesculpturesoftheParthenontoLondonatthebeginning ofthiscentury,mayalmostbeconsideredastheirsaviour.Butwhen theGermangovernmentbegantheexcavationsatOlympiain1874 ithadalreadybecomeamatterofcoursethatwhatwasfoundin GreciansoilmustremaininGreece.Theextremelyrichyieldof theOlympicexcavations,thesmallindependentmuseumsthatare fastspringingupinalltheprovincialcapitalsofthekingdom,and thelargepubliccollectionsatAthens(intheNationalMuseum,on theAcropolis,andinthePolytechnic)allunitethepeculiarfea turesoflocalcollectionswiththe universalinterestarisingfrom thefactthatthevariationsandlocalpeculiaritieswhichtheyillus tratearethoseofclassicart.Nosciencecandrawcertaincon clusionsfromisolatedspecimens; allrequirealongseriesofexam ples.Inallthatconcernsthegreatestartistsandthehighestart, thematerialsatthecommandofthearchaeologistarenothinglike soabundantorsoauthenticasthoseatthedisposalofthehistorian ofmodernart.Andonthisaccounthemustallthemorezealously pursuethemanifestationsoftheartisticspiritasthesenowliebe forehiminathousand examplesformingaseriesinterveningbe tweenartandhandicraft.Andbyvirtueoftheforceandunityof theartisticsensewhichpermeatedeveryancientrepresentationof lifetothelastfibre,andbyvirtueoftheclosenaturalbondwhich existedbetwixttheartistandthecraftsman,weoftensucceedin winningfromanunpromisingwitnesssomeconclusionastogreat worksofartorsomedeterminationastothe prevalenttypeofspecial epochsanddistricts.Fullinsightintothenatureofthiswholesale productionisinseparablefromthesoil.Ourmindsandsensesare bestpreparedtoreceivetheimpressionsofPhidias'swonderful e* lxviii VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. worksnotbyLondonfogs,loutbythe brightsceneryoftheIlissos, whereonitselevatedsite,asofold,theParthenon,initsruined magnificence,isoutlinedagainstthedeepbluesky.

EarlyStages. Thelionswhichkeep watchandwardabovetheacropolis-gate ofMYCENiEhavelongbeenregardedalsoasthesentinelsattheen trancetothehistoryofGreekart.Theymaykeeptheirpostof honour,althoughtheyarereallymonumentsofa foreignepoch, longpastandforgottenerethedawnofanytrulyGreekart. ThediscoveriesofDr.Schliemann, supplementedbythoseof almosteverysucceedingyear,havedeliveredthelionsofMycenae fromtheirartisticisolation,andhaveassignedtothem,andtoall theotherantiquitiesofMycenae,aplaceingreat a historicsequence, thelinksofwhich, however,arestillincomplete.Dr. Schliemann's discoveriesatMycenae,Tiryns,andOrchomenosdonotstandalone; similardiscoverieshavebeenmadenotonlyinthePeloponnesus, Attica,Bceotia,Thessaly,ontheGreekislands,inCreteandRho des, butalsobeyondthelimitsofGreece, inSicily, atTroy, in Caria, andeveninEgypt—in aword, innearlyallthecountries borderingontheE.Mediterranean. Hithertothelargestandthemosthomogeneousmassofsculp tures,goldornamentsandutensils,ivorycarvings,terracottavessels, andotherdomesticfurniture, hasbeenfoundatMycenaB, though notalwaysthefinestspecimensoftheso-called'Mycenian'articles. ButevenintheseMyceniandiscoveries,inthestrictersenseofthe term, weareablenotonlytodiscriminatebetweengoodandbad specimens, butalsoasourinvestigationsproceed, todistinguish moreandmoreclearlytheexistenceofdistinctgroupsofarticles thatmusthave beenmadebydifferenthands, atdifferentplaces, andatdifferentdates. Thewholeappearanceof'MycenianArtpresupposestheex istenceofsomematurecompleted and art(e.jr.theEgyptian),whence ithasdirectlyandindirectlysprung.Hereandthereamongthese antiquities,atMycenaeaswellaselsewhere,genuineandimitated worksofEgyptianarthavebeenfound,suchasscarabaeiandpottery bearingthenamesofAmenophisIII.andhisconsortTi.Weare thusconstrainedtorefertheimportationoftheseartioles, andas a consequencethezenithoftheMycenianprinces,totheperiodof the18thEgyptiandynasty,i.e.tosomewherebetween1600and 1400B.C. sIti scarcelylikelythatthepettytyrantsofMycenae, Tiryns, andelsewherewerepermittedforanyverylongperiodtoenjoyin peaceandsecuritythetreasurestheyhadamassedbyviolence,rob bery, orcraft.Theperiodduringwhichtheywieldedtheir111- siottenpower,andwithinwhichtheybuilttheircastleswiththeaid

VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. Ixix of foreignworkmenfrombeyondthe seaandacquiredtherich equipmentoftheirhallsandtombfromforeignmerchants, must havebeenverylimited.Howeverdifficultitistoimaginethestate ofsoctetyinthesedarkprehistoricages,unilluminedbyany,written documents, itishardlyconceivablethat2000yearsbeforeChrist a pre-HomericAgamemnonexportedMycenianvasestoapre-Homeric PriaminTroy,toEgypt,andtoSicily,andthattheremotecorner ofMycenaewastheseatofflourishingstudiosandfactoriesthat delugedtheshoresoftheMediterraneanwiththeirproducts.The ideaiscontradictedbyallweknowoftheintercourseofnationsat thatperiod, andbyallweknowoftheprogressofhistorywhich beganinAsiaandAfricaandonlyslowlyandgraduallyincluded theyoungGreeceinitssphere.TwothousandyearsbeforeChrist absolutelynothingexistedthatcouldbecalledanationalGreek artorstyle;itwouldbeabsurdtolookforGreekideasorGreek feelingin theMycenianantiquities.Nothingbutthesimplest utensilscouldhave beenproducedbynativeworkmen,exceptunder theharshconstraintofforeigntaskmasters.Thebestandfinest specimensarenomore'Mycenian'inthepropersenseoftheword thantheGreekvasesfoundatVulciareEtruscan.Theyareforeign importations,thoughtheirsourcehasnotyetbeendetermined.We may, however, hazardtheguessthatthemostimportantfactories wereinSyria,oratnogreatdistancefromSyriaandEgypt. The closestanalogiestothestone-sculpturesofMycenaeareof feredbytheN.Assyriansculptures/fromSinjerli,nowinBerlin andConstantinople,whicharemucholder,moreoriginal,and cruderthanthebetterknownAssyrianwoTks, withwhichhitherto thelionsofMyeenaBhaveusuallybeencompared.Butacomparison withthelatterisstillinstructive.Initsrepresentationsofhuman beingsandanimalsAssyrianArtdegeneratedfromahighdegreeof 6killinperceptionandreproductionintoasuperficiallylearnedand conventionalsystem.Ifonlythemusclesthatwereknowntoexist weredistinctlyenoughindicated,itmatterednottotheartistwhe thertheylookedlikestrings.Neithereyenorhandperceivedthene cessityofobservationandsympatheticfeelinginhandlingthemore delicateor linestheswellingcurvesofthelargerfigures,andthis deficiencywasevenmoreevidentinthesmallerdetails.Breadth andfulnessinallformswaslostinemptyandinertsize; con ventionalornament,whichtheAssyrianartistshadusedwithmas terlyskillinitsappropriatesphere,wasillegitimatelyextended toorganiclife;eyes,ears,andmuscleswerearbitrarilyarrangedlike lifelessmaterialonprinciplesofatbestbutapproximatesuitability; thehumanhairandbeard,andthefursandtailsofanimalscame tobearrangedwithtrivialformalityintufts,ringlets,andcurls. InspiteoftheirantiquequaintnessthelionsofMycenaearepos itivelysurprisingintheirfreshanddirectappreciationandlife likereproductionoflivingnature,andintheunderstandingoffeline lxx VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. motionandformthatspeaksfromtheextendedbodies.Theirlife likeappearancewasoriginallyenhancedbycolour.Theartist whofirstsketchedtheoutlineonthehardMyceneanstone,boring holesatthechiefpoints,isunknown;buttowhateverracehebe longed,therecertainlybreathesinthehoarymonumentsomeofthat spiritofartistichonesty,whichneverlostsightofnaturebehind thetraditionsofahandicraft,andnevermechanicallyrepeatedthe formsthathadbeeninventedbyothers,but byconstantreference tothestandardofrenewedandaccurateobservationofnature testedandre-createdthem. But thelionsofMycensedonotmarkafartherdevelopment, anadvanceupontheAssyriansculptures.RathertheAssyrian sculpturesexhibitafalling-offfromtheart-levelattainedinthe Mycenianlions.Theselionsmarkthecloseofacourseofdevelop ment, thebeginningofwhichwefindinthesculpturesofN.As syria, withtheirroughandcrudebutstillfaithfulrepresentations of nature. In the courseoftime,thefactoriesthathadintheearliestages exportedtheirwarestothecoastsofGreece,weresupersededby others,whosewaresweredecoratedinadifferentstyle.Butthe latterbelongedtothesameart-developmentastheformer,some ofthemperhapswereinthesameplaces.TheGreeksthemselves werewellawareoftheoriginalindebtednessoftheirnationto foreigners.Theirlegendsandpoemsattestthis;andeventheir historicaltraditionsarefulloftheascendancyandpowerofthe Phoenicians.TheShieldofAchillesinHomeristhemiraculous workof agod;itwashardlypossiblelistening in toitsdescription torememberaccuratelythevarioussceneswhichHephaestosforged inbronze,muchlesstogroupthemintoanarticulate,artistically arrangedmentalpicture.Buttheactualworksofartwhichinspired theimaginationofthepoetwerenotGreek.Thedetailsofthescenes ontheshieldfindtheirclosestparallelsintherepresentationson EgyptianandAssyrianmonuments,andinthemetaldishes,which thePhoenicianscarriedfromtheirnativelandfarandwidethrough theMediterranean.Thesilverbowlwithagoldenrimwhichbe longedtoMenelaoswastheworkofHephEestos,butagiftfromPhae- dimos,KingofSidon; thesilverbowlofferedbyAchillesasaprize forracingwasmadebythecunningSidonians,andbroughtacross theseabyPhamicianmariners;Hekubahadstoreofgarments wroughtbythehandsofthewomenofSidon,andbroughtthence byParishimself;Agamemnon'sarmourwasforgedinCyprus;the tripodandsilverbasins,thegoldenspindlesandspinning-basket inthehouseofMenelaosandHelencamefromEgypt. Longbeforefirst theGreekcarvermadehischildishessays, EgyptianArtstoodfull-grownandself-contained.Inthestruggle tomaster nature—astrugglethatbeginsatthebeginningofall art-historyandcontinuallyrenewsitselfinitscourse—greatartists VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxxi had discoveredfixedprinciplesofproportionandofdesign;the mightybuildingsofthePharaohsaroseinobediencetoapproved rules, whichincludedandencouragedanimmensevarietyofform andornament.TheArtoftheBabylonianAssyrianEmpire, the dominionofwhichstretchedtotheshoresAsia ofMinor,stoodbeside Egyptianart,fromwhichithadderiveditsstimulus;aftermany transformationsitbecameself-centredandalmostrigid.Greekart aroseandgrewatfirstunderthetuitionofearlierpeoples, thenin contrasttothem; butits firstindependentmanifestationsdatenot 2000yearsbutonly1000yearsB.C.AtfirsttheGreekscertainly attemptednothingmorethansimplytomakeforthemselvesthe littlefiguresofthegods,amulets,ornaments,andutensilsforwhich theyhadpreviouslybeendependentonforeignmerchants.From thepreviouslyexistingarttheyborrowednotonlytechnicalknow ledge,tools,mechanicaldevicesandcontrivances,butalsosettled formsandtypes,fixedconventionalitiesinrepresentationandar rangement,andnotunfrequentlyeventhesubjectofitsrepresenta tions.GreekArchitectureitselfistheblossomingofagermim portedfromabroad.Whatappearstousnowasasettledandper fectedsystem,wasonlygraduallyevolvedbyaprolongedseriesof tentativegropings.Theideaofthecolumnwithbaseandcapitalwas early-Egyptian,andso,too,theentasisandtaper,thesupplementary useofvegetableformsinexteriordecoration,andtheartisticdevice offlutingcolumnsandpillars.Formsinwhichtheelementsofthe IoniccapitalareunmistakeablyevidentoccurnotonlyinEgyptian andAssyrianornamentation,butalsoinAssyriancolumns.Phoeni cianandPersianmonumentsattestthewidespreadofallthesein dividualconstituents,andtheuniversalacquaintancewiththemat theperiodoftheriseofGreekart.Butfromthefarnarrowerfield knowntothem,theGreeksselectedbutsparingly,takingonlywhat wasappropriatetotheirpeculiargenius.Thereisaninexhaustible opulenceoffantasticcapital-formsinEgyptianart;theGreekspirit contentsitselfwiththedevelopmentandrefinementoftwoprincipal orders.TheGreeksdidnotborroweverything,andtheyneverbor rowedawhole;theyrejectedtheoutworn,anddevelopedtheliving germstoanundreamedofbeauty.TheGreekideaoftemple a asa peripteroshadaslittleadirectmodelamongthepre-Hellenicpeo ples,astheDoricandIonicorders.Forthewonderfularchitectural skilloftheGreeks(tothefirstdevelopmentofwhichtheDoric andIonicraces,asthenomenclatureindicates,contributedmost uifluentially)wasnot thesuddeninventionoflogical a mind,de ducingtheformsatthefirstattemptfromtheconstructionof the building,andfindingatonceinnaturetheappropriateornaments andsymbols.Theelementsofform, whichreceivedtheirfull developmentfromthecreativepowerofGreekgenius,hadbeen introducedtoitfromthefirstasarchitectonic;theirtransference fromnatureandhandiworkhadtakenplacebeforetheGreekswere lxxii VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. acquaintedwiththem, andnowherehadtheoldformsdiscovered bytheirteacherscaughtthestormypulse-beat,thesoundfreshlife oftheyouthfullyvigorousGreekfolk,withitsmythsofheavenand earth,itssenseofform,anditsworshipofbeauty. DevelopmentandZenithofArchaicArt. As apeopletheGreekswereapproximatelycontemporaneous withthePersians,againstwhomtheywereafterwardstomeasure theirstrength,inattainingrealindependenceandconsequence. Greekartreacheditsearliestperiodofflorescence,worthilysocalled, atthecourtsthe ofGreektyrants,whoflourishedataboutthesame timeastheLydianmonarchy.Theearliestsart-centresofwhich thenameshavecomedowntousaretheislandsofCrete,Samos, Chios,andNaxos,withwhichPaeoswascloselyconnected;the earliestbuildingsofuniversalrenownweretheHeraeoninSamos andtheArtemisionatEphesus.SamoswasthehomeofWorkersin BronzeandofArchitects; ChiosandNaxoswererenownedforSculp tureinMarble,andtheCretanartistsexcelledinSculptureandAr chitecture.FourgenerationsofChianSculptorshaveleftnamesbe hindthem: —Melas,hissonMikkiades,hisgrandsonArchermos,and hisgreat-grandsonsBoupalosandAthenis,thelasttwoflourishing about540B.C.TheCretansculptorsSkyllisandDipoinosintro ducedtheirarttothePeloponnesus.SeveralSpartansandTektaeos andAngelionarenamedamongtheirscholars.Thelasttwo exe cutedatDelosastatueofApollobearingtheGracesonhishand, andtheyaresaidtohavebeentheteachersofKallonofMgina. Traditionlovestotracebacksuchseriesofmasterandpupiltothe utmostvergeofpossibility.ThusthesculptorEndoios,whoworked inAsiaMinorandAthens, andtowhoselaboursafewextantin scriptionsbearwitness, issaidtohavebeenacomradeofthemy thicalDaedalos. Its i onlynaturalthatattemptsshouldberepeatedlymadeto connecttheremainsofantiqueGreeksculpturewithpersonsnamed inliteraryhistory,atleast orwiththeirstudiosandschools.Such attemptsarerarelysosuccessfulastheyhavebeenin thecaseofthe NikeofArchermos.TheFrenchexcavationsinPelosexhumeda femalefigureintheactofrunning,withwingsonherback andshoulders,andherbrowboundwithafillet.Asseenfromthe front,thefaceandthebodyareturnedtowardsthespectator,while thelegsareinprofile.Theleftarm,heldinanangularpositionat thelefthip,expressedtheexertionofrunning,whiletheout stretchedrighthandprobablygraspedawreathasthesymbolof victory.Theexpressiveattitudeandthedelicateprecisionofde signintheslenderfigureanditsroberevealnotonlythehandof aGreek,butofaGreekwhohadalreadyreachedacertaindegreeof artisticculture.Thearrangementanddesignofthefigure,thus representedasrunningtowardsthespectator,areevidentlybased VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. Ixxiii tosomeextentontheprincipleswhichprevailedinthereliefand decorativestyle;andwearethusjustifiedinconcludingthat the moderepresenting of thehumanforminactivemotionwaaintro ducedfromthetraditionsoftheearlyreliefordecorativestyle atatimewhen,astheNikeitselfshows,sculptureintheroundhad alreadyattained considerabledevelopmentinseparaterepresent ationsofheads,anddoubtlessofthehumanbodyatrest.Weare toldthatArchermosofChioswasthefirstsculptortorepresent Nikewithwings.Thetraditioninthispreciseformiscertainly notcorrect;buttheremusthavebeenaNikebyArchermoswhich gavecolourtotheassertion."Wemaynotonlysupposethatitwas liketheNikefoundatDelos,butwehavegoodgroundsforbeliev ingthatstatuetobetheveryworkofArchermosinquestion; for closebesideitwasfoundapedestalcorrespondingtoitinsizeand bearingthenamesofthefamousChianartistsMikkiadesandAr chermos.Noneoftheworksyetfoundcanbeattributedwithany certaintytoDipoinosorSkyllis.Awholeseriesofarchaicnudeyouth fulfigureshasbeendiscovered,thebest-knownexamplebeingthe ApolloofTenea,nowatMunich.Theyagreeindesignwithanearly typeofApollo,whomusthavebeenrepresentedinthesameora similarstyle;butsomeatleastofthefigureswenowpossessmust havebeenintendedforstatuesofhumanyouths,and werefor used sepulchralmonuments.Theyshowverydifferentdegreesofskill andillustrateverydifferentdegreesofdevelopment,owingprobably tolocalaswellastochronologicalandstylisticvariations; buttheir commonfeaturesaremorestrikingthantheirdifferences,andwe mayperhapstakethisyouthfulnudetypeforadevelopmentofthe earlyCretanschool.Thedifficultyofarrivingatsuchconclusions isduetothefactthatfrequentlywehaveonlyisolatedspecimens foundatdifferentplacestogoupon,whereasnoabsolutelysatis factorydecisionoanbecometoexceptaftertheexaminationofa comprehensiveandconnectedseries.Suchaseriesisfortunately tobefoundinthecaseofAthens, andonlyinAthensitselfcanan adequateideaformed be ofthedevelopmentofAthenianartduring the6thcent.B.C. Theearliestattemptsofmankindinplasticcreationhaveevery wherebeenmadewiththeeasiestmaterialsathand—withclay, wood, oreasily-workedstone.Theuseofthemorebeautifuland moredurable,butalsomorerefractory,marbleindicatesanad vanceintheart.Inthetreatmentofthelinesandsurfacesinvery earlyworksinmarble,tracesthe ofpeculiaritiesofanearliertech niqueseemtopresentthemselves;someofthemarblesalmostlook asthoughtheyweremouldedinclay,stillmorelookasthoughthey werecarvedinwoodorinsomesoftstone.Themarblefigureofa iouthcarryingacalf(ontheAcropolisatAthens)isa celebrated exampleofthislastclass; formsthatowetheircharactertothe habitofworkinginasoftermaterialareespeciallydistinctlyseen lxxiv VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. inhe ttreatmentoftheeyesand mouth.Butapartfromthese, a veryconsiderablenumberofsculpturesactuallyasofter instone (viz.Poros-stone)havebeenrecentlydiscovered.Fivegroupsin reliefhavebeenpiecedtogetherfromthese,ofwhichfourwere evidentlyintendedforthedecorationofthepedimentofatemple. Thetwolargest, representingZeusincombatwithatriple-bodied monster,supposedtobeTyphon,andHerculesincombatwithTri ton,probablybelongtothesametemple.AsmallerreliefofTriton seemstobesimilarlyconnectedwithalargerreliefofthecontest ofHerculeswiththeHydra.Thenaturalcolouroftheyellowish- grey,soft,porousstonewasleftonlyinthebackground; thefigures areallpaintedinbrighthues.ThebeardofTyphonisblue,his hairalsoblue(inonecasewhite),hiseyesgreen,thenudeportions flesh-coloured;thewingsand snakybodyarecoveredwithred, white,andbluepatterns.Thefifthrelief,notbelongingtoatemple- pediment,representswithadmirable animationabluebullbeing overcomeanddevouredbytwolions.ThesePoros-sculpturesare thusonlyinpartcolouredin deliberateimitationofnature; therest ofthecolouringisfantastictocorrespondwiththeirfantasticmy thologicalsubjects,and,whetherconventionalorarbitrary, isin spiredbykeendelightincrudeandbrillianthues. While thenativeartistsofAthenswerestillworkinginPoros- stone, theartofcarvinginmarblehadlongbeendevelopedand broughttoa highpitchoftechnicalandmechanicalskillonthe IoniancoastofAsiaMinorandtheadjacentislands.Indeed,the artistsofthesedistricts,startingfromthemethodofform-represent ationillustratedintheabove-mentionedNike-ofArchermos,had alreadypassedtoamoresuperficialmodeofwork, inwhichthe effectproducedbythebeautyofthematerial,smoothness,elegance, andadroithollowingandundercutting, wassomuchreliedupon, thattheanimatedshapesofthenaturalformswereeitherforgotten orsufferedtosinkintothesecondplace.Fromaboutthemiddleof the6thcent.B.C.Athensbegantobepracticallyinvadedthese by elegantbutaffectedcreationsoftheisland-sculptors.Proofsofthis invasionaretobeseeninthenumerousfemalestatues,nowonthe AcropolisatAthens,thatstandinstiffanddignifiedattitudes,with elaborateartificialcoiffures,graspingwithonehandtheir richand gailyornamentedrobes,andseemingtogazefromtheirobliquely- placedeyesuponthebeholder, withahalf-smileupontheirlips. ItwasfromtheseworksandtheircreatorsthattheAtticsculptors firstlearnedthecharmofworksinmarbleandalsotheirbold and skilfultechnique,thoughatthesametimetheyalsocopiedsome oftheirmannerismsandfaults.Butinnolongtimetheattempts inspiredbyforeignexampleandpreceptgavebirthtoacharming, thoughstilllimited,nativestyleofart,ofwhichahighideaiscon veyedbythefemalefiguresfromthevotiveofferingofEuthydikos andtheworksmostcloselyalliedwiththese. VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxxv The ruleofPeisistiatosandhissonswasaperiodofthegreatest importanceinthedevelopmentofAtticart.Thesetyrantsassem bledforeignpoetsandartistsattheircourt,andprescribednoble taskstobeperformedbyart.OntheAcropolisarosetheDoric temple,withitshugecella100ft.inlength,ouracquaintancewith whichweowetoProf.Dorpfeld'sbrilliantinvestigations.Oneof itspedimentsseemstohavebeenoccupiedbyarepresentationof thebattleofthegodsandgiants,theextantfragmentsofwhichare characterizedbyaworkmanshipadmirablycalculatedforeffect.The headofAthenewhichbelongstotheseisnot'mannered'likethe undoubtedisland-sculptures, thoughitisprobablytheworkofa non-Atticchisel.Itwouldbedifficulttoexaggeratetheamountof theartisticintercourseamongdifferentpartsofGreeceinthosedays. Thestone-cuttersandsculptorsofParosseemtohaveplayedin AthenstherolenowadaysplayedinRomebythe nativesof Carrara. ArtistsfromAsiaMinor, fromtheIonianislands, from^Egina, andfromthePeloponnesusworkedatAthens,whileAthenians travelledabroadbothtolearnandtopracticetheirart.Thesteles ofLyseasandAristion,withportraitsofthe deceased,areamong theextantmonumentsdatingfromthisearliertyranny.Theportrait oftheformerwasincoloursonly, thatlatter of theincoloured sculptureinlowrelief.Lyseaswasrepresentedinsolemntranquil ity, likeapriestmakingreadyforalibation,withthelustration branchinhislefthandandagobletinhisright;Aristionappears inallthegloryoffullarmour,shirtofmail,helmet,andgreaves, witha lanceinhishand.Underthelife-sizemainsceneonthestele ofLyseaswasplacedasmallerpicture,representingaridergalloping towardstherightandleadingariderlesshorsebyhislefthand— recallingdoubtlesssomeracewonbythedeceasedwhenaboy.The correspondingspaceonthesteleof Aristionisnowvacant,butdoubt lessitoriginallyheldasimilar painting.Sculptureandpaintingwere thusnothostileeach toother,normutuallyexclusive; but,onthe contrary,astheportraitofAristionitselfindicates,colourwasthe naturalfinishall tosculptureinarchaicworksofthiskind.The ingeniousAristokles,whomadethemonument,wascertainlyasproud (andprobablyprouder)ofthecarefulpaintingonthefigureofAri stion,asoftheplasticmodellingbelowthecolouring.Whenthe ruleofthePeisistratidaewasbroughttoanendbytheexpulsionof HippiasinB.C.610,amongthemost famoussculptorsinAthens wasAnterior,fortohimwasentrustedtheexecutionof thebronze statuesofHarmodiosandAristooeiton,themuch-laudedpairof friendswhoslewthetyrantHipparchos.Thisgroupwaserected ona conspicuoussiteinthemarket-place,butwhenXerxesmade himselfmasterofAthens,hecarriedoffthissymbolofAthe nianfreedomtoPersia,whereitremainedtillthetimeofAlexander theGreatoroneofhissuccessors.TheAthenianshadreplaced thestolengroupasquicklyaspossiblebyanotherfromthehands lxxvi VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. of KritiosandNesiotes,whichmusthavebeen,ofcourse,aclose replicaof the olderone.Ithasbeenfoundpossibletoreconstruct itscompositionfromthevariousreferencesandimitations,plastic andotherwise,whichwenowpossess.Thetwoassailantswerere presentedintheactofrushingforwardsidebyside,—Harmodios, theyoungerandmoreimpetuous,brandishingaswordaloftinhis righthand, whileAristogeiton,holdinghissheathbeforehimin hislefthand,hadtheswordinhisloweredright,equallyready toparry,tothrust,ortostrike.Theviolentactionandexertion wereexpressedbythearchaicconstraintofpositionandatti tude,andthearchaicandseveretreatmentofthe forms,whilein groupingthetwofigureswerenotorganicallyconnected.But theenergywithwhichthe inventiveartistenteredintotheimpulse andmoodof thedeed,thegraphicanimationoftheaction,the truthandsincerityof theperceptionandreproductionofthenude bodies,andthedecisionwithwhichheemphasizedwhatappeared tohimessentialandsignificant,arestillreflectedinthetwomarble statuesatNaples.Wemayrelyuponthefidelityofthesestatues totheoriginal,fortheycorrespondverycloselyinheadandbody witha remarkablemarblestatueofayouthontheAcropolisat Athens.It isstilladisputedpointwhethertheNaplesstatuesare replicasof theworkofAntenororofKritiasandNesiotes;butthe probabilityisthattheyaremodelledaftertheearliergroup. The ancientartoftheDoricislandof^Eoina,whichreacheda peculiarlyhighlevel,wasofquiteadifferentcharacterfromthat shewninthiscelebratedexampleofearlyAtheniansculpture.And althoughtheindependentimportanceofthisneighbouringbuthos tileislandwasterminatedbythevictoryoftheAtheniansin458B.C., westillhavesomeoriginal/Eginetansculptures,inthefamous figuresfromthepedimentsof theTempleofAthena,whichnowform themostvaluabletreasureof theGlyptothekatMunich.Both pedimentswereoccupiedwithcombatsbetweenjEginetanheroes andTrojans;perhapsintheW.wereAjaxandTeucerother and GreekheroesdefendingthebodyofAchilles,intheE.wereTela- monandHercules,whileAthenawasplacedbesideboththefathers andthesons.Inalltheirmainfeaturesthetwocompositionscor respondedcloselytoeachother.Therewasnoabrupttransition fromthebase-anglestothemiddleofthetriangularpediments; theinterveningspaceswerenotleftempty,butwerefilledinwith combatsofvariouskindsaselaboratelyandbeautifullyaswas consistentwiththedistinctnessofthegroupsprojectinglikere liefsfromthebackground,andwiththeconventionalismwhich hadalreadybeguntoreignintherepresentationsofthecontests betwixttwopartiesoverthebodyof afallenwarrior.Whenthese jEginetanmarbleswerediscovered(1811)they presentedaninexpli cableriddletotheart-criticsoftheday;thelong-limbed,short- bodiedfigures,withtheirstereotypedsmilingfacesshowedsucha VI. HISTORYGREEK OFART. lxxvii lingular combinationofbeauty, strangeness,and(insomedetails) imperfectionintheirreproductionofnature,thattheyappearedto beanythinghutGreek,accordingtothethencurrentideasofGreek art.SubsequentdiscoveriesofearlyGreekantiquitieshaverescued thejEginetansfromtheirsupposedisolation,andobservation,grad- u»llysharpenedbyexperience,hasbeenabletodetect,amidalltho apparentuniformity,differencesbetweenthegodsandmen,thevic torsandvanquished,theunwoundedandthedying.Thecelebrated 'jEginetansmile'wasanattempttoexpresslife,emotion,andfeeling, anditwasnottheonlysuchattemptinarchaicsculpture.Inthese compositionsit isemployedfordifferentpurposesandwithvarious effectin thedifferentfigures;as,forexample,intherecumbent andmortallywoundedwarriorfromtheE.pediment,wherethe effectismostimpressive.Despitealltheirinvoluntaryorintentional resemblancestotheW.sculptures,theE.groupsbelongto afreer stageofart-development.architecture Inthetemplecloselyre semblesfirst theHekatompedosontheAcropolisatAthens.The buildinganditssculpturesmayhereferredtobetween540 and 530B.C.The^Eginetanschoolofsculptureseemsnevertohave advancedmuchbeyondthearchaicmaturityandfinishdisplayed inthesestatues.TheexcavationsontheAcropolisatAthenshave broughttolightbutfew worksinthejEginetanstyle,whichare stillconspicuousfortheirrarity.Yetthat^Eginetanartasillus tratedbythesepediment-groupsmusthavefoTsometimebeen well-knownandmuchadmiredatAthens,isprovedbythered- figuredAtticvasesdatingfromthe periodofthePeisistratidse. The jEginetanswereDorians; butstyleofartisnomorede terminedbyethnologicalconsiderationsalonethanthestyleofa particularartistisdictatedexclusivelybyhisbirth-place.Another varietyofDoricartiswhatmayperhapsbecalledtheMegarean, inasmuchastheonlyexamplesasyetknownofitarethereliefs fromthepedimentoftheTreasuryoftheMegareansatOlympia, and theMetopeReliefsofTempleFinSelinous(Sicily).Allthese examplesdatefromtheendofthe6thcent.B.C.,anddfal,with genuinestrengthandboldness,withthesame themeofthecombat ofgiants,depictingthestraitsanddangersofbattle,thefalland theagoniesofthewoundedwithanuncompromisingrealism,that wieldsthenewly-wonmasteryoverthematerialofexpressionwith unmeasuredandevenexaggeratedforce.Butjustastheearlierme topesinSelinousindicateapreviousstageofart,whichitisimpos sibletosupposewasentirelywithoutconnectionwiththereliefsof TempleF, soalsotheMetopesoftheHeraeoninthesameplacereveal tracesnotonlyofthatoriginalunreflectingwildness(referredto above)butalsoofquiet, a cheerful,andnaivecharm,whichmight almostbedescribedasrustic.Fromthiswelearnthattheartistic impulseanddevelopment,includedundertheterm'MegareanStyle', extendedinvariousdirectionsandsoughtexpressioninvarious lxxviii VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. ways, hile wevenyetitsboundariescannotdefinitelybelaid down.Butour conceptionofPythagorasofRhegium,whoflour ishedinthefirsthalfofthe6thcent.B.C., andcarvedanumber ofstatuesofOlympicvictors,attainssomedegreeofactuality,ifwe usethelightaffordedbytheagonisedgiantonthemetopeofTemple F,thepediment-reliefsofthetreasuryoftheMegareans,andthe laterSelinuntianmetopes,asaguideinconjuringuphisPhilok- tetes,'acrippletheverysightofwhomseemedtoaffectthegazer withthepainofhiswound',andhisgroupofEteoklesandPoly- neikes,thebrotherswhofellbyeachother'shand. The latestdevelopmentofarchaicartalsoincludesthewhole PlasticOrnamentationoftheTempleofZeusatOlympia,themetopes andthetwopedimentalgroups,whichPausanias,probablyerrone ously,ascribedtoAlkamenes,areputedpupilofPhidias,andto PaeoniosofMende.ANikebyPseonios,attestedbyaninscription, hasbeendiscoveredatOlympia.Thegeneraleffectproducedby thisworkisoneofgreatboldnessanddignity.Thegoddess, sent byZeustobringvictorytotheBidewhichfindsfavourinhiseyes, fliesrapidlythroughtheairinaneagle-likeflight,withher dra peryfloatingonthebreeze.Thetechnicalskillbywhich,through acleverarrangementandbalanceofparts,thefigureappearsasif actuallydetached,isalsoadmirable.Itisusuallyassumedthat thisstatuewaserectedbytheMesseniansabout420B.C.But evenifitbeolder(aviewforwhichmuchmightbesaid),itdis playsa styleofartentirelydistinctfromthatoftheE.pediment. FromtimeimmemorialOlympiawasfullofvotiveofferingsfrom farandnear;itwasamuseumoftheproductionsofartistsof probablyeveryschoolofHellenicart,anddoubtlessalsooffor eignartists,whoexecutedtheirworksonthespot.Butnoinde pendentnativeschoolofarteverflourishedatOlympia.Whenthe Eleiansresolvedtobuilda newandsplendidtempletoZeus, duringtheperiodofenthusiasmwhichflushedtheGreekgenius immediatelyafterthePersianwars,theyfound,itistrue,in Libona nativearchitectwhocoulddirectthebuilding;butthere isnodoubtthattheEleiansweredependentuponforeignersfor theirpracticaldesignersandmasons;andthiswasstillmorede cidedlythecaseasregardsallthesculpturedwork.If,ashasbeen supposed,itwasaN.GreekschoolofartthatsuppliedEliswith masters,wearenaturallyinclinedtoidentifythiswiththeArgive schoolofAgeladas; andindeeditwouldbedifficulttosupposethat neithermastersnormencamefromaplacesonear.ButOlympialooks towardstheW.; themostbrilliantaspirantsinthegamesand the mostmagnificentvotiveofferingscamefromMagnaGraciaand Sicily.Thesculpturesof theTempleofZeusoffermorepointsof resemblancetothesculpturesofSelinousandtheW.thantothoseof anyother school; andpossiblyanactualconnectionmayhereafter beestablished.Thegeneralappearanceofthesesculpturesisrich VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxxix and varied,butatthesametimetheyproduceasomewhatstrange impression,animpressionthatwouldbeintensifiedifwecouldsee themintheiroriginalcolouredstate.Forthattheywerecoloured isprovednotonlybytheabundantandunmistakeabletracesofpig mentsstilltobeseenuponthem,butalsobytheconsiderationthat theentiremethodofrepresentationisunintelligibleonanyother hypothesis.Eachofthecompositionsoccupyingthetrianglesof thetympanonhasaprominentfigureexactlyinthemiddle.Inthe E.pediment,wherethepreparationsof(EnomaosandPelopsfor theraceweredepicted,twoothererectformssupportthecentral one,followedoneachsidebyastationarychariotandfour,sur roundedbysitting,stooping,andkneelingfigures,whiletheangles areoccupiedbyrecumbentriver-gods.IntheW.pedimentthecen tralfigureiscontrastedwithwildlyagitatedgroupsofCentaurs, whichincreaseinviolenceastheyapproachtheangles,wherethe compositionendsinfiguresfallingforwardsandinproneformssup portingthemselvesontheirelbows.Theonepedimentisoccupied bysomewhatstiffand uniformfigures,placedsidebysideasbest mightbe,theotherbythewildconceptionsofprimitive a andex travagantgenius,whichcannotsufficientlyexhaustitselfinthe energyofthemostforciblemovementsandcontortions,initsrude enthusiasmforanimallifeandtheaccompanyingrealismofre presentation.Intheonecasewesee theembarrassmentandin experienceofarchaicart,intheotheritsdefianceofdiscipline. Thesegroupsarenottheproductsofdifferentandopposedstyles ofart;theyillustratemerelydifferentaspectsofthesameart. Everycomparisonofmotive,type,andworkmanshipmakesit moreand moreclearthatthetwopedimentsaretoberegarded fromthesamepointofview.Themetopesalso,whichfromtheir positioninthestructurearenecessarilyolderthanthepedimental figures,displaysomanystylisticrelationshipswiththelatterthat theymustbereferredtothesameschool,althoughinsomecases theyshowindividualnuancesofstyle.IntheE.metoperepresent ingAtlasandHercules, wherethebodyofHerculesiselaborated withadelicacythatinthecircumstancesissurprising,theheadof theHesperid,forexample,isofthesametypeastheheadof the sittingnymphintheW.metopeofHerculesandtheStymphalian birds; andthearrangementofthedraperycorrespondstoasomewhat conventionalmotivewhichiselsewhererepeatedtosatiety.There presentationoftheHesperidassistingtheherotobearhisburden, bylightlygraspingthecushionwhicheasesthepressureofhis load,hasjustlybeenpointedoutasoneinstanceofthenaive popularhumour,whichpervadesthewholeconceptionofthead ventureinwhichHerculesandAtlasalternatelyoutwiteachother; Itisthesamepopularhumourthatbreaksoutsomewhatbroadlyin theearlySelinuntianmetopeofHerculesandtheKcrkopes,and thatbreatheswithanairiercharmInthelaterSelinuntianrelief lxxx VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. ofZeusandHeraonMt.Ida.ThetempestuousvigouroftheW. pedimentfindsitsclosestparallelinthereliefofHerculessubduing withstrenuousexertiontherampantbullbehindhim,thoughin themetopethecompositionisnaturallymoreconcentrated. ThedateofthetempleofZeusandtheoriginofthesculptors thatworkeduponitarestillmattersofdispute.Butthetemple withallitsexternalsubsidiarydetailswascertainlyfinishednot laterthan457B.C., andperhapsadecadeortwoearlier.Forthe mostimportantofallthetemplesculptures,theimageofZeus himself,theEleiansturnedtoanAtticmaster,toPhidias. PhidiasandhisContemporaries. Both nativeandforeignartistshadfoundarichfieldofactivity andmanyinducementsintheAthenswhichhadsodistinguished itselfduringthePersianWars,andwhichhadsubsequentlysecur edthehegemonyamougtheIonicGreeks.Buttheirpositionwas incomparablysuperiorwhenthecityofTheseusrosetotheheadof theAttic-DelianLeague,theisland-empireofwhichstretched alongthecoastofAsiaMinorfromLyciaontheS. toByzantium andAstakosonthePropontis,andalongtheThracianshoresontheN. Riches,power,andtalentpouredintothecapitaloftheLeague, andthegreatundertakingswhichpresentedthemselvestoAthens woreless nogloriouslyexecutedthannoblyconceived.Thetradition thatwhenjEschylusat foughtSalamis,Euripideswashorn,and thatSophoclesdancedatthefestivalofvictoryisatleastsymboli cally true.ThecitizensofAttica,boldlyandresolutelystakingtheir veryexistence,hadwonvictoryandpower; anditwastheen thusiasticcontemplationofthissamegloriousera,inwhichtheir fathershadfought,thatinspiredthe greatmenwhogavetheAthens ofPeriklesitscharacterandfame.Amongthosewhoaschildren oryouthshadwitnessedthecontestwasPhidias,bornintheyear ofMarathonoralittleearlier.HisfatherwasnamedCharmides, andhisteachersaresaidtohavebeenHegias,theAtticsculptor, andAgelodas,theheadoftheArgiveschool.Hismostconspicuous artisticcontemporarieswerePolygnotos,thepainter,andMyron,the sculptor,whowasespeciallynotedforhiscastingsinbronze.Po lygnotos,whoseemstohavebeensomewhatolderthanPhidias, camefromthe islandofThasos;hewasthescionofafamilyof painters,andscornedallpaymentforhisworks,receivinginstead honoursatDelphiandcitizenshipatAthens.Hismostcelebrated works werefrieze-like twoseriesoffrescoesinahall(Lesche)at theformercity,representingHadesandtheDestructionofTroy. ThecentralpictureintheTrojanseriesdepictedtheGreekheroes assembledtojudgetheoutrageofAjaxuponKassandra.Kassandra wasdepictedassittingontheground,stillholdinginher handstheimageofAthenatowhichshehadfledforprotection; Ajaxwastakingtheoath;andAgamemnon,Menelaos,Ulysses, VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxxxi Akamas, andPolypcetes, thesonofPeirithoos, weregrouped around.Troyappearedinthebackground; theheadofthewooden horserisingabovethewalls,whichwerebeingdemolishedby Epeios,theartificerofthehorse.Totherightandleftofthis centralpictureweTerepresentedwildscenesofdestruction.The agedNestorwashereseenwearilybeginningtoretire,whilethere thewildNeoptolemospursuedalonehismurderouscareer.The deadanddyinglayaround,orwerebeingconveyedtoburial;women andchildrenclungtothealtarsj thecaptiveTrojanwomenlament edwithAndromache,whoclaspedherchildtoherbosom,andwith MedesikastaandPolyxena,thedaughtersofPriam.Priamhimself andAgenorwererepresentedseatedingloomydespair,whileHelen, on theotherhand,surroundedbyhermaidens,receivedlikea haughtyprincesstheprayersofDemophon,sonofTheseus,to free hisgrandmother^Ethra,whowasoneofherslaves.Thebeautiful slavesBriseisandDiomedegazewithamazementuponHelen, whosefatefulbeautyhadbeentheunhappycauseofthewar.An- tenoraloneoftheTrojansfoundmercy;andasceneatoneendof thelargepaintingrepresentedhisdeparturewithhisfamilyfrom theirformerhome,whichwasdistinguishedbyapanther-skin. Thecorrespondingattheother sceneendrepresentedthestriking ofMenelaos'stentandthepreparationofhisshipforthehome wardvoyage.Therewasthusacontrastof seaandlandatthedif ferentsidesofthefresco.—ThesceneinHadesrepresentedthe reedyAcheron,withCharon'swherry,andthepatientUlyssesoffer inguphissacrifice.Thehero,sittingin astoopingpostureashe conjureduptheshadesof thedeparted,stretchedhisswordacross thechasmtowhichthespectreoftheseerTeiresiasapproached, whileUlysses'smotherAntikleiaremainedsittingonastonebehind. Hadeswasfilledwiththeshadesoffamousheroesandexpiators: —Tityos,Tantalos,Sisyphos,Agamemnon,Patroklos,Achilles, Meleager,andmanymore.Aspiritofhorror,colouredlikeablue bottleflyandviciouslyshowingitsteeth,squattedonavulture'sskin, recallingwithpitilessemphasisthehorrorsof decay.Besidesthe well-knownfignresofTantalosandtheothers,thepainterhadadded varioustypicalrepresentationsofpunishmentsforthemostdeadly sins,suchasdishonourofparents,simony,andnecromancy.Those whohaddespisedtheMysteriesexhaustedthemselvesinfruitless toil,whileontheotherhandKleoboea,thepriestessofDemeter,had, aswemaysuppose,nosuchexpiation.ButtheGreeks,intheirre presentationsoftheexistenceledbytheshadesintheunder-world, paidbutlittleattentiontothepromisesheldoutbytheMysteries. InthepictureofPolygnotostherewasnodifferencemadebetwixt thegoodandtheevil,exceptthatindicatedabove.Whateverthe soulhadexperiencedinthelightofday,andwhatevermouldedits characterthere,remainedtoitintherealmofshades.Parisgazes afterwomen;Thamyrisisblindandhislyreisbroken;Aktieon, Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. £ lxxxii VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. who wastorntopiecesbyhishounds,sits,asinlife,with Autonoe; Marsyas,whomApollosocruellypunished,teachesthe youngOlympostoplaytheflute; Eriphylepossessesthenecklace, whichwhenaliveshepurchasedwiththebasesttreachery,butshe suffersnopunishment;Thersitesplaysatdicewiththeheroes, justastheinnocentdaughtersofPandareosplaywithastragali. Thenoblestheroesreapnoharvestofblissfortheirdeeds.Thejoy andmisery,theguiltandinnocence,oftheupperworld,obeythe samelawintherealmofshades; thereisindeedabsolution,but absolutionthatisignorantofhopeandjoy: 'Ihadratherlive 'The'Ofsomeservilemanhindscantilyforhire,himselfandsustained,eatthebread 'Thansovereignempireholdo'eralltheshades'. (Od.xi.489-491,Cowper'sTranslation.) These arethewordsofAchillestoUlyssesinHades; andthere isnomythmorecharacteristicallyGreekthanthatofAdmetos andAlkestis.Polygnotoscollectedthe materialsforhisgreatworks fromvarious sources: fromthepoetictraditionsoftheepos,from popularconceptions,andevenfrompopularjests,aswellasfrom thealreadyexistingstoreofartistictypesandthemes.Buthe contributedoriginalmatteralso; and heennobledandvivifiedall thatheborrowedwithhisownrichandexaltedpersonalgenius. Soloftyastrainofearnestnessrunsthroughhisworks,thatAris totlerecommendedacontemplationofthemasthebestlessonfor therisinggeneration.ThetechnicalmeansbywhichPolygnotos producedsoloftyaneffectwereofthemostlimiteddescription,in factsoold-fashionedandsimple,thatRoman in times,admiration forhispictureswasridiculedaspedanticaffectation.Hewas theonlymasterofreputationinlatertimesthatdrewthebodies ofhisfiguresasvisiblethroughtheirgarments; andcriticswere naiveenoughtoconsiderthisandsomeotherpeculiaritiesas'in ventions'ofPolygnotos,andasadvanceswhichhe hadbeen thefirsttomake.Oneoftheadvanceswhichhereallydidmake inthisdirectionconsistsratherinthefact,that,startingfroma conventionaland,toacertainextent,systematicrepresentationof drapery,hesucceededinimpartingtoitafreerandmoreexpressive motion.PolygnotospaintedtheStoaPoekileatAthens,builtby Peisianax,brother-in-lawofKimon,andtheAnakeionandprobably theTheseionalsocontainedpicturesbyhim; whilethePinakotheka ofthePropylseaontheAcropolismayalso laterhavehadworks fromhisbrush.ButatAthensMikon,a sculptoraswellas a painter,seemssoontohavebeenmorepopularthanPolygnotos,who mayberegardedashismasterandoldercontemporary.Mikon depictedthecontestsof theAthenianswiththeAmazonsandother sceneBfromthelifeofTheseus; andinpartnershipwithPanaenoa hepaintedthebattleofMarathon,withportraitsofMiltiades, Kallimachos,andKynaegiros. VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxxxiii Even undertheruleKimon of PhidiaswasentrustedwithIm portanttasks.HedesignedthehugebronzecolossusofAthena Promachos,which,onitswidelyconspicuoussiteontheAcropolis, celebratedthevictoryoverthePersians;andthegroupof13 bronze figures,whichtheAtheniansdedicatedatDelphiasashareofthe bootyatMarathon,waslikewisefromhischisel.Thislattergroup representedthevictoriousgeneralMiltiades,surroundedbyAthena andApollo,whohadgrantedthevictory,andthetenancestralheroes ofAttica,whohadpreservedtheircountry.Phidiaswasalready famouswhenheacceptedaninvitationtoOlympia,where, with thehelpofhispupils,heexecutedtheworkthatwonhimmost renownamongtheancients.ThiswashisZeus,'withwhichno otherartistcancompete'; a statueofsuchhugeproportionsthat eventheloftyandspaciousshrinedestinedforitseemedhardly largeenough.Thegod,carvedingoldandivory,materialswhich theGreeksdeemedespeciallysuitedforBacredimages, wasre presentedsittinguponathrone,holdingonhisrighthanda figureofVictory,andinhisleftthesceptrecrownedbyaneagle. Thegarmentwhichcoveredtheentirefigure,includingthearms andbreast,wasworkedwithfiguresandlilies;thethrone,foot stool,pedestal,andbarriersroundit,werealladornedwithin an exhaustiblevarietyofmythologicalformsandscenesrelief, in intheround,orincolours; Victorieswererepresentedinrelief dancingroundthelegsthe ofthrone; thefootstoolrestedongold enlions.ThedestructionofThebanyouthsbytheSphinx,the deathoftheNiobidse,theexploitsandcontestsofheroeslike HerculesandTheseus—infactthewholecarvedornament— remindedtheintelligentbeholderofthejusticeandmercymeted outbytherulerofgodsandmen.Buttherepresentationofthese myths,towhichpoetryandartgaveform,wasalsoinitselfavotive offeringtothegodandanexaltationhismajesty. of Theheadof thePhidianZeusshowednoneofthepassionatelypowerfultraits, withleoninebrowhair andrisinglikealion'smanefromthehead, whichhavebecomefamiliarfromtheZeusOtricoliintheVatican, andwhicharestillmistakenlyattributedtothePhidianZeusby belatedcritics.TheheadofthePhidianstatueexhibitedsimple andpowerfulforms; andthehair,crownedwithagoldenwreathof olive,fellinluxurianttressesoneachsideofthebrowandface, without,however,minglingwiththesoftfullbeard.Theexpres sionofthefacewasmajesticandkingly,yetpeacefulandmild. Suchisthedescriptionleftusbyancientwriters,whoheapinex haustiblepraiseonthework.Theartistsethissignatureonhis noblecreation; andhisdescendantswereeverheldinhighhonour atElis. AnewandimportanttasknextdetainedPhidiasforsomeyears inhisnativeAthens.Perikleawasthenatthe zenithofhispower. ThetreasureoftheAttio-Delianleaguehad,sixyearsbefore,passed f* lxxxiv VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. from the protectiontheDelian ofApollounderthatofthepatron- goddessofAthens.Butthesplendidnewtempledestinedtohouse thetreasure,includingthemagnificentstatueAthena, of which formedsopreciousapartofit,hadnotyetbeenbuilt.Eimonhad indeedbegunitbutleftitunfinished.TheGreeksofAsiaMinor andthe^EgeanSeahadgazedwithmingledadmirationandenvy ontheinexhaustiblegoldofthePersianmonarchs,andonthe splendourandopulenceoftheOrient.Thisseductionwastobe conqueredandsupersededbyaninfluenceof anoblerkindat Athens.Thenationalantipathyto'barbarians',ofwhichthe GreekshadbeenbutfeeblyconsciousbeforethePersianwars,had beenawakenedstrengthened and duringthatcontest,anditwas encouragedandinflamedbyAthenianstatesmen.Athenshadre solvedthatmerewealthwasnolongertofetteranddazzlemen's heartsandeyes; butthatformsofthemostperfectartisticbeauty —forwhichthemostcostlymaterialswouldseemonlyrightand proper—shouldchainalladmirationtothemselves.Friendand foeshouldhaveproofthattheAcropoliswithitstemplesandstatues, thatAthensitselfwasineveryrespecttheworthycapitalofHellas, andthetrueeyeofGreece.'Intheerectionoftheseworks',saysPlu tarch,'ofsoextraordinaryasize,andinimitableintheirindwelling graceandbeautybecausetheartificersstrove,asifincompetition, todignifyandperfecttheirartisticpowers,themostwonderful featurewastherapiditywithwhichtheysprangup.Allthese works,eachofwhichseemedinitselftodemandthelabourof generations,werecompletedduringthetenureofasinglegovern ment.Theirbeautysoonbecamewidelyrecognised,andtheir influenceisstillfreshandnew.Thefreshnessofyouthhovers overthem,andthroughlongyearshas preservedtheirbloomas thoughtheredweltinthemamightybreathandsoul,notsub jecttoage.TheinitiatorandtheoverseerofallwasPhidias, thoughfamousarchitectsandartistsworkedunderhim'.The PericleanParthenonwasbeguninB.C.447andwas"completed inB.C.434.KallikratesandIktinoswerethe chiefarchitects.The specialandmostserioustaskofPhidiaswasthepreparationof theColossalStatueofAthenaParthenos,ingoldandivory,forthe interior.Ofthisstatue,theheightofwhich(39ft.)wasonlylimited bythecapacityofthecella,notasplinterremains.Buta bypains takinguseofdescriptionsandcasualreferences,andthrough fortunatediscoveriesofmoreorlessfaithfulcopiesandreplicasof thewholeorofparts,ithas graduallybecomepossibletoindicate thegeneralfeaturesofthecomposition,andinsomefewpointseven toattainconsiderableexactness.Insculpturetheloftiestsublimity andmajestycanbeexpressedonlybysimplicityandmoderation, notbyvehemenceandagitation.Thislawisthemoreimperative thelargerthestatue;fordetailswhichmayescapenoticea in statuette,becomeintolerablewhenmagnifiedinacolossus.On VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxxxv the otherhand,alargefigurepossessesinitsverysizeacertain pouexofimpressing,providedonlythatitsproportionsbejnst, miitsformssimpleandmoderate.Andthissimplicityisallthe moreindispensablewhenthestatueisdestinedtostand,asthe ParthenosofPhidiaswas,amidthestrictandregulardetails,the perpendicularandhorizontallines,ofaDoriccella.Thegoddess wasrepresentedasstandingerect,cladinasimplearmlessmantle (chiton),fallinginlongstifffoldsandfastenedinthemiddlebya girdle.Themainweightofthebodyrestedupontherightfoot, whichwasplantedfirmlyontheground;theleftfootwasslightly intherear.Therightarmfromtheshouldertotheelbowwas heldclosetothebody,butthefore-armwasadvanced,supporting onitsopenpalmawingedNike,theinseparablecompanion,mess enger,andattendantofAthenaasofZeus.Theleftarmhungby herside,thehandgraspingalanceandholdingtheupperrimof theroundshield,whichrestedontheground.Withinthehollowof theshield,ontheground,wascoiledthe sacred snake,emblem the ofErichthonios.Theloftyhelmet,theaegiswithitsborderofsmaller snakesandtheGorgon'sheadonherbreastcompletedthegoddess's costume.Inthecasethe ofOlympianZeusPhidiashadfollowed thetraditionsofearlierartinlavishlysurroundingthegodwith mythologicalscenes.InthecaseofAthenahewasmoresparing. Butthesurfacesofferedbythesimplebroadtreatmentofthestatue wereherealsomodestlyoccupiedornamental withdetail.Achrys elephantinereliefonthepedestalrepresentedthecreationofPan dora; ontheedgesofthe thicksolesofthesandalswasthe contest oftheCentaursandtheLapithse; andontheinnerborderofthe shieldbattle theoftheGodswiththeGiants.Theexteriorsurface oftheshieldhadaGorgon'sheadofgoldasaboss,surroundedbya designdepictingacontestbetweentheAmazonsandtheAthenians. Amongthefiguresofthelatter,Phidiasintroducedportraitsof himself(abald-headedfigureraisingastonewithbothhands)and ofPerikles,whoseupliftedarmwiththelance,partlycovered, butdidnotentirelyconcealhisface.Nomagic,however,can recalleveninimaginationthegeneraleffectofthecolouring,in whichthecontrastofgoldandivorygavethedominatingkey. Inspiteofalltheoreticaladmissionsandallfortunatediscoveries, wehavebeentoolongunaccustomedtothepresenceofcolourin sculpture,tobeableadequatelytorealizetheeffectof agoldand ivorycolossusliketheParthenos.Theancients,whose powerof judgingwehaveoftentoacknowledgewithastonishment,were en tirelysatisfiedwiththisandwithsimilarworks.Ourwisestplan isnottraverse to thisjudgment.Andfinallywemustnottakeex ceptiontothefactthattheextendedrighthandof theAthena, onwhichstoodtheNike,wassupportedbyacolumn—a technical necessitytowhichPhidiasbowed,andwhichhadprecedentsin archaicimagesofasimilar character.ThestatueoftheParthenos lxxxvi VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. was completedandconsecratedin438.It atoncecompelleduni versaladmirationandimpresseditselfoneverysoul.Henceforth wheneveranAthenianthoughtoftheGoddess,wheneverastone masoncarvedherimageonsomesmallrelief,boththoughtand carvingtooktheformofPhidias'sstatue. TheplasticadornmentwhichwaslavishedontheParthenon,the metopes,thepediment-groups,andthefriezewhichencircledthe cellaontheoutsidelikeanornamentalfillet,havecomedowntous inruins.Butenoughhasbeenpreservedtoawakenouradmiring astonishmentandtopermitofreverential a andcarefulexamination ofthesegreatrevelations,inwhichwemayforamomentforgetour selves.Formerlythewholeofthese sculptureswereattributedto Phidias, whowassupposedtohavedesignedthemallandtohave executedthemwiththehelpofhispupilsandassistants.Butthis viewhasbeenrendereduntenablebythediscoveryof a tolerably faithfulthoughsmallcopyoftheParthenos.ThatprovesthatPhi diashadmuchmoreincommonwiththesculpturesofthetemple ofZeusatOlympiathan withthesculpturesoftheParthenon. Thelatterarenothomogeneous.Theearliestportionsaretheme topes,oratleastbyfarthegreaternumberofthem; andthesehave thegreatestaffinitywiththeartofPhidias.Buttheydifferentiate themselvessoclearlyfromthefriezeandthepedimentgroups,that ithasbeensuggestedthattheywereoriginallydestinedforKimon's templeandhadbeenpartlyexecutedforit.Thepedimentfigures andthefriezebelongtoadifferentandmoreadvancedstageofart. Phidias representsatoncethecloseandtheperfectionofarchaic art.Hisfamerestsupontheskillhedisplayedindealingwiththe troublesomeanddifficultmaterialshe usedinthechryselephantine colossiofZeusandAthene.Myronappearsastherepresentativeof anewera,burstingthe oldfettersanddirectingartinanewcourse. Onecannothelpfeelingthathisactivity,oratleasttheeffectofhis activity,mustdatebetweenthecreationoftheParthenonmetopes andtheParthenonfrieze.TheDiscus-Thrower,oneofhismostfa mousworks,isknowntousfromanadmirablecopyandseveral otherreplicas. The pediment-groupsareintoopoorastateof preservationto giveanyadequatenotionoftheeffectofthewhole;buteventhe littlewecanstillseeorsupplybyconjectureexcitesunfailing admiration.Theconstraintimposedbythetriangularfieldisskil fullydealtwithinthetympanongroupsofjEgina,butthesense ofconstraintisstillperceptible.Itisnolessevidentinthepedi mentsofthetempleofZeusatOlympia,where,indeed,the meetingofstiffnessanduniformitywith wilddaringandagita tionmakesthelimitationsmorefeltthanelsewhere.Thedaily contemplationofthelattergroupsmustundoubtedlyhaveled Phidiastoponderovertheproblemofwhatwasthegoodandgreat elementinthem,andwhatmerelydistortedandinartistic.Inthe VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxxxvii casef o theParthenonthesculpturedgroupsappearasifthey hadbeendesignedfirstandindependently;andthelinesofthe pedimentseemtobeonlythenaturalandappropriateframefor them.Bothoftheearlier..EginetanandOlympiangroupscon sistedoffigures,sculpturedindeedintheroundanddetached fromthebackground,buttreatedasifinreliefandproducingthe effectofreliefs.Inthecaseof theParthenon,thepointofview fromwhichthesculpturesweretobeseen—vit.theground— wascertainlytakenintoaccount,buttheeffectproducedbothby thegroupasawholeandbytheindividualfigureswasthatof workintheround.ThecarefulfinishofthefiguresoftheParthe non,notonlywheretheworkmanshipcouldbeseen,butalsoonthe backsandontheunseenparts,sprang,asBietschel,thegreatGer mansculptorexpressedit,fromthetrulydivinecreativeimpulse, whichimpelledPhidiastomakewhateverhecalledintoexistence, perfectandself-contained.Thesculpturesare'thelove-offerings ofatrueartist-soul',nowrevealedtousafterlongconcealment, butthefinishisalso,asitwere,avisiblefinger-post, pointingto thefactthatthepedimentswereoccupiedfigures, withsculptured intheround,andconceivedasbeingintheround.Thesewonder fulgroupsseemasiftheybelongedtoahigher sphereofexis tence,soamazingaretheirtruthfulnessandperspicuity,whether inmotionoratrest,sogreattheirdignifiedsimplicity,so striking thedepthanddelicacyofconceptionshownintheirforms.To Canovatheycameasanewrevelation; Danneckerexclaimed,'they beartheverystampof nature,thoughIneverhadthegoodfortune toseesuchnature'; andothergreatsculptorsofeverylandhave sharedthis infeelingecstatic of admiration.Thesculptors,who arethusabsorbedinadmiration,paylittleheedtotheproperex planationandnamingofthegroups; andprobablytheremany are others,notcallingthemselvesartists,whowillalsofindtheirad mirationtoodeeplyengagedtopermitthemtofeelexercisedabout thesolutionofthenowscarcelysolubleproblem.Butwemustnot forgetthatitwasotherwisewhenthefigureswereexecuted.The delightinpurebeautyofform—andweknowhowkeenthiswas amongthebestAtheniansandhowwidespreadamongthemgener ally—wasaccompaniedinallthebeholdersbythestrongestand mostenthusiasticinterestinthesubjectsrepresented.Thebelief inthegodsandin the6acredlegendswasstillalive.was Itasan inspiredbardthatPhidiasannouncedtohiscountrymenthemira culousbirthofAthenaandtoldthemhowPoseidonandAthena stroveforthepossessionoftheirdearnativeland,andhowthe goddess,withwhomtheAtheniansfeltthemselvesandtheircity identified,wasthevictorinthenoblestrife.Thusalonecanweform anideaofwhattheartisticundertakingsofPericles,whatPhidias 'nd hiscomradesweretohisfellow-citizens.Butsuchaun animouspopularenthusiasmasthis, inwhichthepresentisseen lxxxviii VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. throughahazeofideality,could,fromtheverynatureofthecase, scarcelybeoflongduration.Theexistenceofnations,likethe existenceofindividuals,isastruggle,evenwhentheloftiestaims andthenoblestmotivesareinquestion.Theageof Periklesand itsartisticcreationsdid not escapethisstrife.ThePropylaea, thegrandentrancetothefortifiedAcropolis,wereerectedin437- 432B.C.,afterthesplendidplansof Mnesikles.Buttheerection did notfullycorrespondwiththeplans.Disturbancestookplace whilethebuildingwasgoingon,whichcompelledlimitationand alterations.ThebastioninfrontoftheS.wing,withtheTemple andBalustradeofAthenaNike,stoodinconnectionwiththePro- pylsea;andherealsothewholearrangementsuggestsexteriorcon straintandsuddenchange.TheTempleFriezedoesnotattainthe artisticstyleorperfectionofthesculpturesoftheParthenon,but amongalltheremainingworksofantiquitynoneapproachthelatter sonearlyorresemblethemsomuchinrevealingtherefinedGreekor,so tospeak,Atticcharacter,asthebeautifulfragmentsoftheBalustrade Relief,withitsrapid-movingandcharmingVictories.Thefrieze andmetopesoftheso-calledTempleofTheseus,thoughmorearchaic, possessa distinctaffinitywiththesculpturesof theParthenon.The erectionandadornmentof thistempleperhapstookplaceduring theslowerbuildingof theParthenon; forthefriezeseemstostand midwaybetweenthemetopesandthefriezeofthemorefamous temple.Thoughtrueartisticgeniusoftenmakesitsappearance suddenlyandwithoutwarning,thedevelopmentofsuchatechnique asisshownintheParthenon-friezeistheresultofslow a growth. EventheParthenon-friezewasthusnotunheralded;andaroundit therefalltobegroupedalargenumberofreliefs, someasshortly anterior,someascontemporaneous,andsomeasslightlyposteriorto it.Tothefirstgroupprobablybelongsthelargeandfinerelieffrom Eleusis,representingDemeterandKorawithaboybetweenthem, inwhosehandDemeterisplacingsomethingsignificant(perhaps goldenearsofcorn)whileKoracrownshimwithawreath.Influ encedbytheartoftheParthenon-friezearethefineAtticTomb- Reliefs,which,thoughimperfectindetailsandinpointoffinish, areintheirgeneraleffectalsowitnessestotheGreekfeelingfor beauty—that'noble simplicityandcalmgrandeur'whichWinckel- mannextols.Theoft-recurringrepresentationsofcombatsof horsemenareparticularlystriking.InafinelargeTeliefofthis kindattheVillaAlbaniinRome,ayouthhassprungfromhis steed,whichrearsbehindhim,andwhileheholdsthebridlein hislefthand,heraisestherighttoaimablowathisopponent whoisfallingbackwardstotheground.Thisreliefisquiteinthe styleoftheParthenonreliefs,betweenthemetopeandthefrieze incharacter.ThetombofDexileos,whofellinhistwentiethyear, intheCorinthianWar(B.C.394),whichisstillinsituatAthens, representshimaimingablowfromhorsebackathisconqueredop VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. lxxxix ponentn o theground.Mostofthereliefs,however,areofdo mesticscenes,whichappealtoeveryheholder;andinmanyof themthesorrowfulfeelingsattendingdeparturefromlifeareun mistakablyexpressed.AloftyideaofAtticartanditstraditions isalsoaffordedbytheVotiveReliefs,whichwerefoundingreat numbersbesidetheAsklepieion,andthesmallReliefs,whichfre quentlyadornthebeginningsofInscriptionscarvedinstone. AmongthemonumentalsculpturesofthesameperiodistheFrieze oftheTempleofApolloatBassaeinArcadia,lktinos,thearchitect oftheParthenon,builtthistemplealso; anditisalmostamatter ofcoursethatthe sculpturewasentrustedtoartiststrainedin Attica.Withtheattainmentofartisticperfectionandwiththe possibilityofabsolutelyunfetteredactivity,comesthedanger ofanunbridledandimpetuousadvance; andtendermeltinggrace isoftenenoughelbowedbyTitanicaudacity.Theartistofthe friezeatPhigaleiadeservesnosuchreproach,evenalthoughhis workhasnotretainedthefinefinish,whichsoennoblesthesculp turesoftheParthenonandthebestpartsoftheBalustradeof AthenaNike,andalthoughhedoesnotapproachtherefinedele gance,thesimplenaturalness,finished theinspirationofallthe forms offormer. the HehascarriedthesuggestionsofPhidian artinthebattleoftheCentaursintoarushinglife.Butthestormy enthusiasmwhichtheremakesitselffeltmovesinharmonious lines.InthebattleoftheAmazons,theepisodesoftheunnatural combatareinterspersedinthemostmasterlymannerwithincidents expressivegood-will ofandkindliness.Anotherimportantworkwas undertakenontheAcropolisatAthensitself,afterthecompletion oftheParthenon,thePropylaea,andtheTempleofAthenaNike. ThiswastherestorationandrebuildingoftheErechtheionoran cienttempleofAthenaPolias,a beautifulIonicbuilding,re markableforthecomplicatedground-plandemandedbythere quirementsoftheancientlegend,forthewonderfuldoorwayonthe N.side,forthebeautifulcapitalsofthecolumns, andforthe PorticooftheVirgins,withitsentablaturebornebyAtticmaidens —thelovelyclassicalpredecessorsofthegenerallyunsuccessful modernCaryatides.Retardedbyfiresandotherhindrancesthe workdraggedonfora longperiod.Itwasincourseoferection attheendofthe6thcent,andalsointhe4thcent.B.C. Onef o themostfamousStatuesproducedbytheAtticschool beginningwithMyronistheStandingDiskobolos,orquoit-thrower, whichisfamiliartousfromnumerousreplicas.Thisisoneofthe mostbeautifulantiquefiguresextant,andisespeciallyextolledby artists.IntheStoopingDiskobolosofMyronthewholeoftheeffort, bothofmindandbody,isconcentrateduponanexactingfeatof bodilystrength.Theunusualposeandmovementofthebody,the obviouspreparationforavigorousandimpendingthrowandforward leap,aresomarvellous,thatitiseasytoforgetintheircontempla xc VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. tion thespiritualelementwhichispresentinthisasineveryother workofgenius.TheStandingDiskoholosmarksastepadvance. in Herealsothe'motifisaphysicalaction,viz.theattainmentofthe exactattitudeandpoiseonwhichthesuccessofthethrowwillde pend.Butthespiritualelement,thepsychologicalinterestpre dominates.Itisnot themereadoptionof acertainattitude thatdeterminesthescopeofthework,butthemeaningwhich thatactionexpresses.Myron'sDiskoholosseizesandfixesthecul minatingpointofaphysicalaction,thecriticalmomentinamotion orseriesofmotionsdependentonstrictrulesofart.Butthecul minationofthementaleffortandwill, thedecisionwhichcondi tionstheact,liesinthemomentofpreparationrepresentedinthe erectfigure. A similarcourseofdevelopment,asimilarexperience, tothat metwithbythehigherbranchesofart,mayalsobetracedinthe historyof thecognatehandicraftsandart-industries.Thisisespe ciallythecasewiththePaintedVases,thedevelopmentofwhich waslargelyinfluencedbyfacilityofimportationandexportation, asisthecasewithalllightarticlesthatcanbeeasilytransported inlargequantities. Theearly'Mycenian'terracottavesselshavealreadybeenmen tioned.Thenextleadingvariety,withmanysubdivisions,consists ofthevasesoftheGeometricStyle,i.e.vasesornamentedexclus ivelyoressentiallywithdesignsconsistinglinesand ofpointsand theircombinations.Thisvarietyalsowasnon-Greekinitsorigin, althoughitwasafterwardsadoptedbytheGreekfactories.Ofthe earliesttrulyGreekvarietiesthemostimportantaretheChalkidian andCorinthian.AmongtheveryearliestCorinthianvasesoccurspe cimensdistinguishedalikeforthecarefulexcellenceoftheiractual manufactureandfortheuncommondelicacyandaccuracydisplayed intheirornamentaldesigns.TheAthenianvase-painterslearned tocompetesuccessfullywiththoseofChalkisandCorinth, and finallyfarexcelledthem.Inthe6thand5thcent.B.C.incredible quantitiesofpaintedvaseswereproducedinAthensandexported thence,especiallytoEtruriaandother countrieslyingtotheW. IntheearlieststyleofAthenianVasesthefiguresofthedesigns arepaintedinblack,likeshadow-pictures,uponalightredground. ButthismethodchangedasearlyastheperiodofthePeisistratidffl, perhapsinconnectionwiththedevelopmentoftheartofpainting marblereliefsandstatues;thefigureswerethenpaintedinred uponablackground.Occasionallypolychromefiguresappearupon awhiteground;sometimesbothstylesappearonthesamevase.The shapesofthevasesareverydiverseandbeautiful.Largeshallow vasesareverycommon,onwhichnotinfrequentlythepotterthe or painterhassignedhisname.FromthesewelearnthatEnphronios wasoneofthemostrenownedvase-painters,thoughhehadmany admirablecontemporaries.Intheseworkswearestrucknotonly VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. xoi with theartists'pleasureinthemythologicalorgenrescenesde picted, butalso, apartaltogetherfromthesubjectofthedesigns, withtheirdelightinrepresentingnudefigure theinnewattitudes andmovements,inboldanddifficultposes.Theinterestofthe vase-paintersseemsoftenidenticalwiththeIdealsofthejEglnetan sculptors,oftenalsowiththeseMyron. of Buttheyhave canlearned onlyfromthejEginetans, notfromMyronwhoflourishedlater. Themostbeautifulspecimensofpolychromepaintinguponawhite groundaretobeseenonthetallandslenderLekythi,whichwere filledwithfragrantperfumesandusedatfunerealceremoniesin AtticaandItsimmediatevicinity.Veryearlyspecimensofthis kindvase of havebeendiscovered,butthevarietyremainedin usedowntoacomparativelylateperiod.Thecollectionsinthe Athenianmuseumsareespeciallyfine.Inthemiddleofthescene paintedontheselekythitherefrequentlystandsasteleortombstone, behindwhichthegrave-moundisoftenadded.Roundthetombare groupedthemourners,lamentingandofferingvotivegifts.Fre quentlyapassingwayfarerisintroduced,askingwhomthislament ationconcerns.Bodilesssoulsaresometimesseenhoveringround thetomb; lessfrequentlyCharonisintroduced,orthedeadbody onabier.Thesepaintingsaresimplebutfullof expression.They areseldomcarefullyfinished;intendedasthefleetingproductsof themoment,tobeusedonceandthenforgotten,theyareoften hastilyandcarelessly,thoughseldomcoarselyexecuted.Someof theprofilesandhandshaveabeautyandgracerecallingtheworks ofRaphael; thefeelingfornobilityform of for andtenderandsym patheticexpressionofgriefiseverywheremanifest."Westandbe forethesemodestproductionswithafeelingofenvywonder and foraperiodinwhichsomuchofthegeniusofthegreatartistcould overflowintotheworkofthemereartisan. PolykleitoaandhisSchool. At thetimewhentheParthenonwasbeingcompletedandthe PropyleeaerectedinAthens,themostprominentsculptorandre cognisedheadoftherenownedschoolofArgosandSikyon,in whichtheartofcastingbronze inwaspractisedwithespecialsuc cess,wasthepopularmasterPolykleitos,whocarriedonhis professionalactivitytillafterB.C.423.Polykleitoswasanarchi tectaswellas asculptor,andcertaintheoretictreatisescurrent ata laterperiodwereascribedtohim.Oneofhisstatues,the Doryphoros,orspear-bearer,wassocelebratedforthejustness ofitsproportions,thatitreceivedthenameofthe'Canon'and wasregardedas apracticalmanualandmodelofart.WepossesB copiesbothofthisstatueandofhisDiadumenosandAmazon. TheDoryphorosrepresentsa manlyyouthleaninghisweight ontherightfoot,withtheleftfoota littleintherear;the headisslightlytooneside,asifintentonsomeobject;theright xcii VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. armhaugsdown,whiletheleftholdsaspearrestingonthe shoulder.TheDiadumeuosisinasimilarattitude,huttheheadis moretooneside; thehandsareraisedandintheactoffastening afilletroundthehead.Theproportionsofthetwostatuesarehar moniousandattractive,hutscarcelysoslenderasthoseafterwardsin vogue,anditiseasytounderstandhowthefollowinggenerations foundthemalittleheavy.Wearealsoatnolosstounderstandwhat theancientwritersonartmeanwhentheyspeakofthespecialat titudewhichPolykleitosissaidtohaveinventedor ofthesameness withwhichhisstatuesarecharged.Theattitudeisevidentlythat oftheDoryphorosandtheDiadumenos,whichalsorecursinhis finefigurean ofAmazon.Ineachofthesefigurestheactionisone offorward motion,theweightrestingmainly onfoot, onewhilethe quiet,well-considered,andharmoniousmovementofthebody servestothrowintoprominencethepowerfulbeautyofthe frame, itscarefullycalculatedsymmetry,andthenormalproportionsofthe wholeandoftheindividualparts,andalsoallowsmost thedelicate andequallyfinishedexecutionofdetails.Toourmoderntastethe beautyofthesestatuesseems,indeed,ofasomewhatover-muscular andevencoarsetype,andwearebetterabletosympathisewiththe moderatecriticismpassedupon thembywritersofalittlelater datethanwithunstintedpraiseoftheirdelicacyofexecutionand attractivebeauty.Butitispreciselyinsuchworksasthisthatthede siredeffectdemandsthatsupremefinish,whichPolykleitosissaid tohavedeclaredwastherealsecretofart.Wehavetothinkofhis statues,notasbreathingthefinepoeticcharmwhichwaspecu liartoAtticart,butasgloriousinphysicalbeautyandfinish,and ashavingattainedadelicacyandharmonyof lineineachindividual feature,suchasourfancycanscarcelygraspbecausenospecimens haveevercomewithinourvision. AmongthestatuesreferredtoPolykleitos,thatwhichappeals moststronglytoourfeelingsthroughthepoetryofitssubjectis thesadandwearyAmazon,restingaftera vainandhopeless combat,whichisfamiliartous fromreproductionsIntheBerlin MuseumandintheBraccioNuovooftheVatican.Thiswasevi dentlymodelledafterthecreationofthewoundedAmazonleaning ona spear,whichbelongstotheAtticschool.Theso-called MatteiAmazonis,ontheotherhand,evidentlyamodificationof thisworkofPolykleitos.Ourfailuretorealizethequalitythe of workofPolykleitosismostcompleteinregardtotheChrysele phantineStatueofHeraatArgos.Weknow,indeed,thattheart- criticsofantiquityconsideredthatthisstatuemarkedanadvance onthetechnicalskillwithwhichPhidiashadpreviouslyemployed goldandivoryinthefamousAthenaPartheuos; andwe mayalso assume,withtolerablecertainty,not onlythatthetypeofthehead oftheHeraofPolykleitos, whichresembledhisotherwork,but alsothatastatueofthiskindinsocelebrateda centreofthena VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. xoiii tional worshipmusthaveexercisedgreatinfluenceuponsubse quentart.Wearealsoinformedofthegeneralarrangementof tiestatue.Herasatonathrone,clothedinlong a andrichgar ment,which,however,leftbarethearmsofthe'white-armed'god dess.Inonehandsheheldapomegranate,intheotherthesceptre, terminatingina cuckoo.Theheadwasencircledbya crown, adornedwithfiguresoftheGracesandtheHours.Asyet,how ever,wehavenotbeenfortunateenoughtofindanyadequatere productionofthestatueoranydirectcopyofthehead.Adjoin ingtheHeraofPolykleitosstoodachryselephantinefigureofHebe byhisbrotherNaukydes,whoalsoexecutedaHermes,aPhrixos offeringtheram,aDiskobolos,andnumerousotherstatues.The schoolofArgosandSikyonalsoproducedmanyStatuesofVictors in theGames,whichwereapparentlyintrustedtothemin prefer encetoAtticartists. Familyf o Praxiteles.Skopas. The familyofPraxiteles,thecreatoroftheCnidianVenusand theOlympianHermes,wasactiveandcelebratedinartseveral generationsbeforethebirthofitsmosteminentmember,andthe ancestralcallingwasworthilycarriedonafterhimbyhissons. APraxitelestheElder,probablythegrandfatherofthegreatPrax iteles,flourishedatAthensinthe5thcent.B.C.Hisson(probably) andthefatherofthegreatPraxiteleswasKephisodotos,whoexe cutedthebeautifulGroupofEirenewiththechildPloutosinher arms,acopyofwhich,formerlyknownasLeukothea,ispreservedin theGlyptothekatMunich.Thegoddessofpeace,clada inlongand richAtticpeplos,standsinanattitudeofquietandsimpledignity, bearingthelittlePloutoswithhiscornucopiaonherleftarm,while herrighthandgraspsalongsceptre,thelowerendofwhichrests ontheground.Shebendsherhead,whichiscoveredwithaprofusion ofwavylocksfallingonherneckandshoulders,toherlittlenurs ling,whostretchesouthishandtowardsherchin.Attitudeand expressionbetokenatenderfriendliness,which,however,isrepres entedwiththemoderationandreservecharacteristicoftheearlier Atticart;thefaceisofwell-markedAttictype,andthesamein fluenceisevidentinthesimplicityofpose,majestic, the full, andhealthyfigure.Wemayimagine,withoutbeingtooventure some,thatthecontemporaryrepresentationsofDemeterwereof isimilartypefurnished and themodelforthisincarnationofthe blessingsofpeaceandplenty.AsheadsofBacchusofclosely a relatedcharacterhavealsobeenfound,wemayperhapsconclude thatthistypeofcountenancewastraditionalinthePraxitelian family.ThemostpopularworkofthegreatsonofKephisodotos wastheAphroditeofKnidos(Cnidus),ofwhichafinestatueinthe GlyptothekofMunichmaygiveanapproximateidea.Anotherwork ofwhichtheoriginalexecutiondatesbacktoPraxitelesisthewell xciv VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. known ApolloSauroktonos,oryouthfulApollo,abouttoslaywitha dartalizardclimbingthetreeonwhichheleans.Buttheinsuf ficiencyofsuchreproductionstogiveanadequateideaoftheorigi nalhaslatelybeen moststrikinglyillustratedbythewonderful discoveryoftheHermesofOlympia,original anworkofPraxiteles, whichhasinthemostunexpectedmannerenlargedourconception ofhisart,ofancientart,and,perhapsitisnottoomuchtoadd,of artingeneral.Acompleterevolutioninourviewsofsculpturewas effectedatthebeginningofthepresentcenturythroughthestudyof theParthenonmarbles.Thenewlightsheduponthesamefieldhas neithersoextensivenorsoinexhaustibleaninfluence.Butthefact remainsthat,ashighwater-marksofpastandstandardsforfuture art,theParthenonsculptureshavenowtosharetheirhonourswith theSamothrakianVictoryintheLouvre,thePergameniangroups atBerlin,andtheHermesofPraxiteles.Anartisticcareersuchas thatof Praxitelesmusthave beencharacterisedbyawonderful processofdevelopment.Asaboyandasayouthhedoubtlesssur renderedloyallyandunreservedlytothe influenceofhisfatherand master.Itwouldbeararepleasuretotracethebudding,blos soming,andfullperfectionofhisowngenius,watchinghisup wardprogress,stepbystepandworkwork. by Butthematerial forsuchastudyiswanting.WemaysupposethattheCnidian Venuswasthefirstproductionofhisemancipatedgenius;wift greatercertaintywecanaffirmthattheHermeswasnoyouthful workbutanexampleofthefullmaturityofhispowersofconcep tionandexecution.TheresemblanceoftheHermestotheEirene ofKephisodotosis,afterall,littlemorethansuperficial.Inboth casesanerectadultformisdepicted,holdingachildinitsarms. In bothcasestherightarmisupliftedandtheheadbentlovingly towardsthechild;inboththechildisadjoinedbyanattribute, thecornucopiaofPloutos,thecaduceusofHermes.Thegentleand kindlyaffectionIndicatedbythebendingheadissimilarinboth; buthow muchmorelivelyandpenetratingisthisfeelinginthe Hermes,howmuchmorefinished,delicate,andattractivearethe generaleffectandeverysingledetailinthegroupoftheyounger master! Thisdifferenceisnottobeexplainedsolelybythefact thatwepossessbuta copyoftheworkofKephisodotos,andthe originalofPraxiteles.Whateverallowancewemaymakeonthisac countfortheEirene,wemuststillconfessthatitswholescheme im pliesastraightforwardandsimplemodeofexecution; intheHermes wefeelthattheeffectisdependentontheutmostdelicacyandfinish ofrendering,andthattheslightestflaworweakeninginthismar vellousfinishwouldproduceafallingofffromtheeffectaimedat suchastheinferiorityoftheEireneatMunichtotheoriginalwork ofKephisodotosbutfaintly canreflect.Weobtaina striking illustrationoftheprogressoftimeandoftechnicalperfection inartifweobservethesimplefoldsandthemereindicationof VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. xcv materialn i thedraperyoftheEireneofKephisodotosascontrasted withtheeasymasteryandfinishedhandlingofthefoldsand textureofthegarmenthungfromthetreeintheworkofPraxi teles.If,finallywecomparethetwoheads,inthecalmandplacid featuresof theEireneweseemtoseeintelligenceandsensibility buried,asitwere,inprophetic a sleep,whileintheHermeswe seeanexuberantintelligenceandavitalenergyandsensibility whichareonlyhalfconcealedbytheveilofgentlegraceandbeauty envelopingthewhole.Thetwotypesare certainlydifferentin essence,notmerelyinhandlingandexecution.Thefemaleheads ofPraxiteles,likeeveryproductofhischisel,mustalsohave exemplifiedthisdelicatelyspiritualisedandvitalperfectionof form,whichseemstoviewiththeinexhaustibleresourcesof nature.TheheadofHermeshas,ashasbeenjustlyobserved, somepointsofresemblancetotheheadoftheApoxyomenosof Lysippos,butthiscomparisonmustnotbedriventoofar.Prax iteleswasolderthanLysippos,butthetwomasterswereinvolved inthesamespiritualcurrentandtosomeextentfollowedsimilar ideals.LysipposbelongstothebronzeschoolofArgosandSikyon, PraxitelestothemarblesculptorsofAthens;theheadofthe ApoxyomenosofLysipposisa developmentof theDoryphorosof Polykleitos,thePraxitelianheadofHermesisbasedon anearly Attictype,whichmaybetracedbackas farthe asDiskobolosof Myron.ThefameandadmirationwhichPraxitelesenjoyedamong theancientscanperhapsbeparalleledmodern intimesonlyby suchacircumstanceastheextravagantpopularityofCorreggioin the17-18thcenturies.Certainlyhisinfluenceuponfollowingartists wasasgreat,ifnotgreater.Wedoubtlessoftenstandinthepresence ofreflectionsofPraxitelianworks,evenincaseswherewehaveno suspicionofthefact.Forwecanscarcelyexaggeratethewealthof lisartisticpower,inheritedandacquired,andthewaysinwhich thequickeningsparksofgeniusawakennewlifeareinnumerable. Wecantracethisinmightyformsandinbloodlessshadows,in copiesandechoes,insuggestionsandtraditions,inmodifications andexaggerations,inweakeningandmisunderstanding.Andwhen wecomparewiththeHermesthestatueshithertoacceptedascopies ofworksbyPraxiteles,weseeclearlyhowcompletelytheyare destituteofthetruebreathoflifethatinspirestheactualwork ofthegreatmasterhimself.Aremarkableoriginalworkofthetime ofPraxiteleshasbeenfoundatEleusisandhasbeenattributedto Praxiteles; thisisthelong-hairedyouth'sheadknownasEubu- leus.ThesonofPraxiteles,whoisdescribedasthe'heir'ofhis art,wasnamedKephisodotos,likehisgrandfather;anotherson wascalledTimarchos.Theportrait-statueofMenanderinthe theatreofAthenswasajointworkofthetwobrothers.Thetwo •eatedfiguresofMenanderandPosidipposintheVatican,which «eevidentlyintendedaspendants,havebeensupposedtobe xcvi VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. original worksofKephisodotosandTimarchos,executedforthe Atheniantheatre;andtheirsimplebutmasterlyworkmanshipwould notbeunworthyofthesegreatnames. The nameof PraxitelesnaturallysuggeststhatSkopas, of a muchadmiredcontemporaryinthesamewalkofart.Amonghis worksweoftenmeetthesamesubjectsaswehaveseentreatedby Praxiteles; inthetimeofPlinytheRomanswereunabletodecide whetherthelargegroupofNiobeandherChildrenwastobeassigned toPraxitelesortoSkopas.Atthatperiodthemostadmiredwork ofSkopaswasanextensivegroup,representingPoseidon,Thetis, Achilles,Nereids,Tritons,andallkindsofSeaMonsters,thesub jectofwhichwaspresumablytheNereidswiththearmsofAchilles. OfthePedimentGroupsoftheTempleofAthenaatTegea,ofwhich Skopaswasarchitectaswellassculptor,wehaveunfortunatelybut veryscantyremains.Butwiththeir assistancewehaveobtained someinsightintotheexpressiveandeffectivelyenergeticstyleof Skopasinsomeofhisotherworks,suchasthebeautifulfemale headfromtheS.slopeoftheAcropolis.Skopaswasalsoveryactive inIoniaandCabiainAsiaMinor.Fromtheearliestperiodthe GreeksonthecoastofAsiaMinorhadtakenaprominent,insome casesdecisive, a partthe indevelopmentofGreekart,thefirst homeofwhichwasintheislandsoftheGreciansea.Theremains oftheancientArtemisionatEphesusandthearchaicseatedfigures fromtheSacredWayatMiletosbear,likethesculpturesofAthens, towhichtheyarecloselyakin,andthemorerecentdiscoveriesin theislandsthemselves,importanttestimonytotheearlieststeps andtraitsofIonicart.ThereliefsfromthetombatXanthosin Ltcia,generallyknownastheHarpyMonument(nowintheBritish Museum),andthesculpturedepistyleblocksfromtheTempleof Assossupplementourconceptionoftheblossomingofarchaicart. ThegreatepochofPhidiassentitswavesovereveryHellenicor semi-HellenicdistrictinAsiaMinor.InthetimeofSkopas(sec ondhalfofthe4thcent.B.C.)theTempleofArtemisatEphesus andtheMausoleumatHalikarnassosattractedcrowdsofartistsfrom allpartsthe ofGreekworld;andSkopashimselfhelpedto adornboth.Themostbeautifuloftheveryunequalsculpturesof theMausoleumprobablyaffordfair aideaoftheartofSkopas,and areferencetothebestthe ofcolumnarreliefsofEphesus(nowIn London)mayinthesamewayrepresentadequatelyenoughthe sculpturedcolumnwhichwe knowhecontributedtothattemple. ThesculptorsengagedupontheMausoleum,whoincluded,besides Skopas,Timotheos,Bryaxis,andLeochares,hada verydifferent idealfromthattheir of predecessorsacenturybefore.TheAmazon Reliefspossessa peculiarlypatheticbeauty,withtheirslender, tallfigures,inmarkedcontrasttothemorecrowded composition oftheAmazoniancontestsinthefriezeof Phigaleia.Atastehad grownupforreliefsinmuchmore'openorder',withtheirfields VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. xcvii less closelyfilled,thanwasthecaseundertheimmediateIn fluenceoftheParthenonsculptures.Thusthefiguresinthevery effectivefriezeofthebeautifulMonumentofLysikratesatAthens (B.C.336)areseparatedhycomparativelywideintervals.This revolutionoftasteisobservedineverydepartmentofart.The samecustomofwide-spacingoffiguresisevidentinthenarrow paintedbandsofornamentationatPompeii,whichareoftenofso clearandtastefulaneffect. sJusta thepaintingsontheAtticvasesofthe6thand5thcent. B.C.reflecttheaims andtheachievementsofthecontemporary sculptorsandmonumentalpainters,sothecharminglittleTerra cottaFigures,recentlyfoundinlargenumbersatTanagraand elsewhere,mayhelpto usrealisemoredistinctlyandmorevividly theworldofformswhichministeredtothetasteoftheepochof Praxiteles.Themarvellousgraceandbeautyoftheattitude, motion,andform,theinexhaustiblevarietyattainedwithanappa rentlysmallnumberofmodels,andthebrilliancyofthecolouring onthe best-preservedspecimensspeedilycalledattentiontothese fragilelittlefiguresandhavespreadtheirfameworld-wide.Oni fatherscouldthinkofancientsculptureonlyasdiversifiedby lightandshadeor atmostdifference by ofmaterial.Theoretic knowledgeworksslowlyandproducesnolivelyrealisation;inthe largesculpturesknowntous,eveninthemostfavourableinstan ces,the originaleffectofcolouringwasimperfectlyrealized,ifnot unintelligible.NowatlastweknowjusthowGreekpolychrome sculpturelooked,atleastsmall in figuresofacertainkind,and candelightinthelively,brilliant,andyetharmoniouscolouring ofthesewomenandgirls,withtheirrichandgracefuldrapery, theirpalm-leaffans,andtheirbroad-brimmedhats.Malefigures arecomparativelyrare,butwehaveCupidsatplay,boyswith birds,thethirstyraceofSilenus,andthehumorouscomposition representingaworthycitizeninthehandsofhisbarber.Almost allthefemalefigures,whethertheyrepresentgoddesseslikeArte mis,theMuses,andtheNymphs,ormerelymortals,haveasimilar typeofface,whichtheartistsseemedtohavetriedagainandagain toimprovetilltheyattaineda certainstandardofperfection, whichthenceforthbecamethestereotypedpattern.Therecent discoveryatSidonoftheso-calledSarcophagusofAlexander,now inConstantinople,thrownadditional has lightuponGreekpoly chromesculpture. Ofthehigherformsofpaintingproperinthe4thcent.B.C.we can,unfortunately,formnoadequateidea;andthevasesofthis period,owingtothesteadilygrowingdivergencyofartproperand theartistichandicrafts,arestilllesscompetentguidesofourfancy thaninearlierstagesofdevelopment.Wecannotbutformahigh opinionofthepainterZeuxis,notonaccountofthesuccessful illusionofhispaintings,asuccessascribedbycontemporariesto Baedekeb'sGreece.2ndEdit. g VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. artistsf o almosteveryrank,but onaccountofthefluedescription givenbyLucianofhispictureofCentaursandthepraiseawarded tohimbythisexperiencedcritic.Othercelebratedpaintersofthis periodareParrhasioa,Timanthta,Pamphilos,Pausias,Nikias(who helpedPraxitelestocolourhisstatues),andEuphranor,the heroic painter,whoalsohasagreatnameasasculptor. Lysippos andApelles. Lysipposthesculptor,ofSikyon,andApellesthepainter,of Kolophon,arefamousasthetwoartistswhomAlexandertheGreat delightedtohonourbysittingtothemforhisportrait,—asthetwo luminariesofart,whoseraysblendedwiththebrilliantradiance ofthegreatconqueror'splanet.Thesameancientcritics,whoob jectedthatthefiguresofPolykleitosshowedacertaindegTeeof monotonyandheaviness,foundtheperfectionofartandthestand ardoftheirjudgmentinLysippos.Theyattributedtohimthe creditofhavingabandonedthemuscularandthicksetproportions, whichhadbecomehabitualandevenauthoritative,foramore slenderandgracefulfigure,ofmakingtheheadssmallerandthe wholefiguretaller—inaword,theycreditedhimwithsupplant ingthecanonofPolykleitosbyacompletelynewstandard.Inthe samestrainofcomparisonwithPolykleitos(which,however,ignores theAtticSchool)theyascribedtoLysipposanimportantadvance inthenaturalreproductionofthehairandpraisedhisscrupulous attentiontosymmetryandtheextremedelicacyofeverydetail.The fortunatediscoveryofagoodcopyoftheApozyomenosofLysipposin theTrastevereatRomein1849andacomparisonofthisfigurewiththe DoryphorosofPolykleitosenabletounderstand us thispointofview. TheproportionsoftheDoryphorosarehandsome,full,andpowerful, butneithertallnorslender.Theheadisofnormal a size,butisnot sosmallinproportiontothebodyasissometimesfoundinnature, muchlesssosmallastolookunnatural.Theposeisunaffectedand quiet,basedonthesimplecontrastbetweenthesupportingandthe movingleg,whichissocommonandsuccessfula feature in statu ary; therightfootisfirmlyplantedontheground,theleftfoot (withwhichthenextstepistobemade)isslightlyinthereaT,the bodyisscarcelyoutof theperpendicular.Theactionofthehead andrightarmismeasuredandsimple;thehairclingscloselyto theskull,theformofwhichitfollowsandreveals.Thefeatures arehandsomeandwell-marked,butnotstriking;theforeheadis 6moothlow, andthenosestraight,thelowerpartofthefacefull. TheApoxyomenosofLysippos,ontheotherhand,isanunusually tallandslenderyouth,withasmallheadpoisedonalongneck. Thelimbsdonotshowsomarkeda contrastofmotionrest, andbut theattitude,thoughinappearancemoreatease,isreallymorearti ficialandtemporary.Thefeetarefartherapart,andalmostsug gest thattheyouthisabouttoswaybackwardsandforwards;the VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. xcix tight hipprojectsmorebeyondthestraightlineof thebody.Ifwe letoureyefollowthecontourofthefigurefromthefeettothe headandthenbackagaintothefeet,werecognisethatthisattrac tive,vigorous,andself-sufficientoutlineisformedbyanumberof smallandundulatinglinesofmotion.Thehairhasa styleand heautyofitsown,thoughtheformoftheskullcanalsobetraced. Theforeheadprojects,andismadeexpressiveandanimatedby cross-lines.Thenosebeginsbelowthevaultofthebrow,not forminga straightlinewithit.Theforms,bothinfigureand head, aremorevariedandmoreindividual.Theeffectisno longerproducedmerelybyformsandsurfaces;linesandpoints becomeconspicuousassuch;thestrokesofthechiselruninto eachotherandintersect;thefineanddefinitemodellingproduces anapparentlyindependentplayoflightandshade,whichisclosely akina togenuinepictorialeffect.Whateverdegreeoffineness ofexecutionweallowtotheDoryphorosofPolykleitos,evenifwe couldsucceedinforminganadequateideaofitandcon:equentlyof theinjusticeoftheabove-mentionedcriticismoftheancients,itwould stillbeundeniablethattheApoxyomenosbreathesthespiritofa newepoch,aspiritwhichismorecloselyakintoourownandfor whichtherewasnoplaceinthewondrouslychasedvesselofPoly- kleitianart.TheartofLysipposwasneverthelessbaseduponthe artofPolykleitos,growinguppartlyincontemplationofitand partlyincontrasttoit,andLysipposwasrightincallingthe DoryphorosofPolykleitoshisteacher.Wemayperhapssay that LysipposstandsinthesamerelationtoPolykleitosasPraxiteles toPhidias.JustasontheonesidewehavetheworksofPhidias andPraxitelesresemblingeachotherinthepurityandcharm withwhichtheyarecoveredaswithatransparentveil,soon theotherweseethecreationsofPolykleitosandLysipposboth characterisedbythatbrilliantandincisiveclearnessofgeneraleffect andindividualdetail,whichmaypossiblyhaveariseninpartfrom thefamiliarityofthesemasterswiththeartofthebronze-founder. TheresemblanceinthearchetypalformsofPhidiasandPolykleitos isalsoobviousenough,andreferencehasbeenalreadymadetothe similarityoftheidealwhichPraxitelesandLysipposaimedatin theirexecution.Thereareindeedmanystarting-points, from whichwemaytraceindividuality the ofthesegreatartists,aswell astheirinter-relationsandcontrasts.Lysipposissaidtohavepro duced1500works,includinglargegroups,figuresofgodsand heroes,portrait-statues,chariots,hunts,lions,andboldpersonifica tionssuchasthatofKairos,orPassingOpportunity.Lysipposranks withPraxitelesindeterminingthecourseofartaftertime. hisThe typeoffacewithwhichwebecameacquaintedintheApoxyomenos frequentlyrecurs,withmoreorlessjperfectionandvariation,but stillunmistakeable; theidealofdivinitywasalteredtosuithis typeandhistreatmentofformandattitudewasnotallowedto S* c VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. sink intooblivion.Sonumerous,however,arethechannelsof transmissionandtheopportunitiesofinfluence,thatany ingiven caseitisdifficulttosaypositivelywhentheeffectoftheLysippian modelhasbeendirector indirect. AsLysipposmodelledthefigureofOpportunity,soApelles paintedaningeniousandcomprehensivepictureofCalumny,the descriptionofwhichhasincitedmanymodernartiststoattempt asimilarcomposition.Perhaps,however,hismostcelebratedworks wereArtemissurroundedbyherNymphsandtheAphroditeAnady- omene,orVenusrisingfromthesea.ThefigureofArtemiswemay imaginetohaveresembledtheDianaofVersailles.Venus,thefoam- borngoddess,wasdepictedrisingfromthewaves,throughwhich asthroughaveilherlowerlimbswerevisible;withherhandsshe wrungthefoamfromherhair.Apellesissaidtohavebeensuper iortoallthepaintersofantiquityinthequalityof'Charis'or 'Grace'; andwemayperhapsobtainsomeideaofwhatwasmeant bythisterminthetendercharm,thelivelyfeelingforthepoetry ofmotion,whichwenowandagainfindinthewall-paintingsof Pompeii.Buthisworkshaveperished,andwiththemallpossibility ofatrueinsightintohisart.ItisalsonarratedofApellesthat hesucceededindepictingsubjects,suchasthunderandlight ning,whichwould seemtoentirelytranscendthepainter'sskill. LikeLysippos,hewasbelievedtohaveattainedthehighestpos siblepointoftechnicaldexterity.Andinfactthesetwoartists probablyfeltnolimitationsexceptthosetheyvoluntarilylaidon themselves.Godsandheroes,portraitsofallkinds,wildgroupsof combatants,naivegenrescenes,cleverallegoricalcompositions,all yieldedeasilytotheirchiselandbrush.AfterLysipposnonew formalprincipleappearedinGreekart;therewasnolackofnew problemsandnewsubjects,buteventhegreatestofthesewereeasily fittedintotheoldmethodsofexecution.Thesemethodsbecame expanded,polished,andemphasised;butthewaynowopenedup waswide enoughtosatisfyallneeds,forinLysipposandApelles thatconceptionofthematerialandspiritualworldwhichdominat edthesubsequentdevelopmentofarthadalreadygainedthe upperhand. GreekArtintheTimeoftheDiadochi.Pergamon. Rhodes.Rome. InthepalmydaysofGrecianart,theleadingplacewastaken byHellasproper,andespeciallybyAthens.Therequirementsofthe newperiod,however,transcendedboththematerialandthemoral strengthofthesmallcommunitiesofGreece,thedisintegrationof whichhadreducedittothelevelofamereshuttlecocktossedbetween theMacedonianandEgyptianinterests.AthensandSikyon,theold centresofart,continued,indeed,theiractivity; Greeceremained fulloftreasuresofartandAthensstillexcitedthewonderandad VL HISTORYOFGREEKART. ci mirationf o successivegenerations;mightyprinces,embuedwith ssitiritofPhilhellenism,viedwitheachotherinadorningAthens withmagnificentbuildingsandinthussecuringanhonourablecon nectionoftheirnameswithhers.Butnonethelessis ittruethat herintellectualsupremacyfellwithherpoliticalpowerandpassed, likehercommerceandherwealth,tonewkingdomsandcities. ComparedAlexandria with andAntioch,Athensseemedamere provincialtown,aretiredandquietretreatforthesolitarystudent. AfterthecloseofthePeloponnesianWarartceasedtobesoex clusivelyconnectedwiththereligiousandpoliticallifeof the nationand becamemoreandmoreuniversalandaccessible.The HellenicandHellenisedworldwasfullofstatues.Plinyasserts thatitwouldbeimpossibletogiveafulllistofthestatuesinhis time.'DuringthesedileshipofM.Scaurus',hewrites,'3000Greek statneswereerectedinatemporarytheatre.Aftertheconquestof AchseaMummiusfilledRomewithtreasuresofart,andtheLuculli addedlargelytothestock.NeverthelessMucianusassuresusthat therearestillatleast3000statuesinRhodes,andasmanymore atAthens,Olympia,andDelphi'.Arthadbecomeanecessityof ordinarylife,andthisenormousproductionofstatueswaslooked uponas amatterofcourse. The Ptolemies,Lysimachus,andtheMacedonianrulersdirected theirhomagetowardstheislandofSamothrakb,longcelebratedfor itsreligiousmysteries,andhaveleftpermanentrecordsoftheirpower bythegiftstheylavisheduponit.WhenDemetriosPoliorketes, sonofAntigonos,defeatedPtolemyinthedecisivenavalbattleof Salamis(Cyprus)inB.C.306,inconsequenceofwhichhisfather assumedtheroyaltitleandassigneditalso to histhe son,triumph wasannouncedtocontemporaryandfuturegenerationsbytheerec tionofasuperbmonumentofvictoryinSamothrake.Thiscon sistedofa colossalmarbleNike,representedasstandingonthe prowofa vessel,andstretchingeagerlyforwardinthedirection of thevessel'scourse,withstreamingdraperyandoutspreadwings. Withherrighthandsheheldtohermouththelong'salpinx',as iftosoundthepaianofvictory,andinherleftwasastaffforuse intheerectionofthetrophy.ThisstatueisnowintheLouvre, havingbeenskilfullyputtogetherfromanumberoffragments foundinSamothrakein1863.Itcombinesthemostvigorous breadthofconceptionwiththemostcompletemasteryofdetail,a fullandgenerousidealofbeautywithakeenappreciationoffinesse andelegance,aclearanddefiniteeffectinthemainoutlineswith elaborationanddelicacyindividual of features.Theproblemofthe contrastorunityofdraperyandbody,whichsoexercisedtheearlier Greekartists,isheresolvedwithtriumphantease.Theoriginal solutionofthesculptorof theParthenonpediment-groupshasbeen morefullydeveloped;analmostmoderninterestintherepresen tationofdraperyhasbeenattained.BeforetheNikeofSamo eil VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. thrake,as beforetheHermesofPraxiteles,westandinastonish mentatthesuccessoftheancientsintreatingdraperywith dignityhutwithoutbringingitintoundueprominence.Theyear inwhichtheNikewaserectedhasnotbeendefinitelyascertained, butitmayhavebeenseveralyearsafterthebattleitcomme morated(perhapsaboutB.C.294).Inanycase,however,theim portantfactremainsthatsucha workwasexecutedaboutB.C. 300,showingtowhataheightGreekartcouldattainunderthe influenceof theartistictasteandpowerdevelopedsincePraxiteles andLysippos. Nearlya centurylaterKingAttalosI.ofPergamonerecteda VotiveMemorial,containingagreatnumberoffigures,ontheAcro polisofAthens.InB.C.229hehadgainedabrilliantandde cisivevictoryovertheCelts,whowerethenthreateningtoover runtheGrecianworld.Thistriumphhedeemedworthyofcom parisonwiththegreatestachievementsofGrecianlegendandhis tory,suchastheContestoftheGodsandGiants,theStrifeof TheseusandtheAthenianswiththeAmazons,andtheBattleof Marathon.Thesefourcontestswererepresentedonhismonument indetachedfigureswithanaverageheightoftwocubits(about 3ft.),asomewhatunusualsize.AfortunatediscoveryofBrunn hasrevealedtousthatwestillpossessseveralfiguresfromthese groupsofAttalos,scatteredthroughoutdifferentmuseums.When andhowtheywerecarriedtoItalyisnotclear; inthe4thcent,of thepresenteratheystillstoodontheAcropolis.Thefigures hithertodiscoveredallbelongtothevanquishedparties; theyare eitherGiants,Amazons,Persians,orGauls.Theyarefulloflife andvigour; manyofthemarerepresentedinattitudesofthemost momentarycharacter,fallingback, kneelingandengagedina vaincontestwithanopponentabovethem,andthelike;others liestretchedupontheground,eitherdeadordying.The work manshipisenergeticandcharacteristic,showingahighdegreeof skill,butissometimesunequalinfinish.ThekneelingPersianin theVaticanisoneofthebest,butsomeoftheotherfigures haveevidentlybeenexecutedwithgreaterhasteandlesscare. Ina workofsuchextentsomeinequalityisonlynatural.The inequalityinthiscase,however,coupledwiththeunusualscale, hasledtheirdiscoverertotheconclusionthat Attalospresented Athensonlywitha reducedcopyofa largermonumenterected atPergamonitself.Itisknown,atanyrate,thatmuch,larger andmoreelaboratemonumentswereerectedatPergamonto commemoratethevictoriesofAttalos.ThevictoriesofAttalosI. andEumenesII.overtheGaulswererepresented,asPlinyin formsus,bythesculptorsIaigonos,Phyromachos,Stratonikos, andAntigonos.ThescantytracesoftheseworksfoundatPer gamon, showthatthesereallywerebronzestatues,andalso thattheycelebratedvictoriesoverAntiochosaswellasoverthe VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. ciii Celts.TheGroupofGaulaintheMuseoBoncompagiiiatRome andtheDyingOaulintheCapitolineMuseum,whichevidently belongtothesamecomposition,alsocloselyresemblethestatuesof KingAttalosandarenowunreservedlyascribedtothePergamene school.The'motive'ofoneoftheAttalosfiguresisindeedalmost identicalwiththatthe ofDyingGaul.Thelast-namedfamous statue,longknownasthe'DyingGladiator'andcelebratedby Byronin afamiliarpassage,isindeedafigurethatcannotfailto deeplymoveasympatheticbeholder.Thepowerfulandheroicwar rior,recognisableas aGaulhis byfeatures,shorthair,moustache, andtwistedcollar,has preferredself-inflicteddeathtodefeator captureandhassunkdownuponhislargeshield,thebloodpour ingfromhiswoundedbreast;hehaspreviouslybrokenthecrooked war-hornbesidehim,which,likehimself,hedisdainstoyieldto theenemy.Thefigureisnude,truetothehardyboldnessofthe Celtsinexposingthemselvesinbattlewithoutarmour; thetall, firmly-knit,andhardenedframe,withitsmusclesofsteel,isclearly eihibited.Theveryskin,stretchedover tenselytheframe,gives animpressionofelastictoughnessandimpenetrability.Onefeels irresistiblyingazingatthisvigorousandwell-seasonedbody,en shriningsoproudandinvincibleawill,thatitwouldformanoble subjectfor thebronze-founder.Thismarblestatue,however,isso fulloflife,somasterlyinconceptionandexecution,thatwehave no groundtodoubtthatitisanoriginalwork.ThegroupintheMuseo Boncompagniappeals,perhaps,evenmorepowerfullytothefeel ings.Thebarbarianherehasslainhiswifetosaveherfromcap tivity,andnowplungestheliberatingsteelintohisownbreast.We mayunhesitatinglyassertthatrepresentationsofthiskindwereim possiblebeforethedaysofAlexanderandAristotle.Theskillac quiredinearlierartisnowemployedinproducingaclearlydefined andhistoricallyfaithfulgenre-scene.Thevanquishedbarbarian, withhiswildandchivalricbraveryandhisindomitablepreference ofdeathtodishonour,appearedattractive an andnoblesubjectto theHellenicartist.InpreviousrepresentationsofGreekvictories theconditionsweredifferent.TheAmazonsareafterallofHellenic raceaswellastheGodsandHeroes; thePersiansareindeeddif ferentiated,butonlyingeneralforms.Sucha sympatheticab sorptioninthe natureandcustomsoftheouterBarbarianand enemy,asishereevincedbythefaithfulanddignifiedrepresen tationofhispeculiaritiesofface,form,andgarb,wasimpossible untilthebarriersshuttingoffthefairlandofGreecefromtherest oftheworldhadbeguntobebrokendown. The accessionofEumenesII.,thesuccessorofAttalosI.,marks tieculminatingpointofthekingdomofPergamon.Inhisreign, whichlastedB.C. from197toB.C. 159,waserectedthehuge Al tar,therecentdiscoveryofwhichbyKarlHumannhas enriched theBerlinMuseumwithaseriesofancientsculpturesofthehigh VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. estvalueandimportance.FromanearlyperiodGreekartdelighted toemploysculptureinitsvariousformsasanornamenttosacred buildings.Nottospeakofthefiguresandreliefsofthemetopes, pediments,andfriezesofthetemples,wemayrefertothe bal ustradewhichenclosedthetempleofAthenaNikeandtothe figuredreliefsonthecolumnsoftheArtemisionatEphesus.At Pergamonanaltarwasplaceduponahugeplatformapproached byflightsofsteps,and wassurroundedwitharchitecturalmon uments,whichwereelaboratelyadornedwithreliefs.isusually It assumedthattheplatformwassurroundedby anIoniccolonnade, openontheoutersideandadornedontheinnerside(facingthe altar)withaFriete,representingfrom scenesthehistoryof Tele- plioa,sonofHercules,themythicalprogenitorofthePergamenes. AtonepointHerculesisdepicted,leaningonhisclubandwit nessingthemiraculousnourishmentofhisinfantson; atanother, Telephos,sittingbythehearth,threatenstheyoungOrestes, in or dertocompelAgamemnon'sattentiontohisrequest.Sofarastheir unfortunatelyverydilapidatedconditionus allowstojudge,these reliefswereexecutedwithcare,skill,andtaste.Ofmuchgreater interestisthelargeFriezeoftheOigantomachia,whichranround theouterfacethe ofplatform,belowthecolumnsof theabove- mentionedcolonnadeformingabroadbandofornamentationbe tweenthestronglymarkedarchitecturalfeaturesthebuilding. of Inmerepointofextentthisfriezeisremarkable.Theheightof thereliefis7!/2ft.,andthelengthofthefriezewasabout400ft. Onehomogeneoussubject,theBattlethe ofGodsandGiants,occu piedthewholeofthisimmensesurface,thesizeofwhichandthe numberofcombatantsmaybeconsideredtoillustratethetremen dousexertionstheGodshadtoputforthtoovercometheiroppo nents.Theyhaveenteredthecontestfull inforce,attendedbyall thedemonsandsacredanimalsandfurnishedwithalltheterrors andweaponstheycanmuster.Zeusshakeshisaegisandhurls histhunderbolts; hiseagleburiesitstalonsinthesnakybodyof itsmaster'santagonist.Athenarushestothefrayandseizesher enemybythehair,whilehersacredsnakefightsbyherside; Nike fliestowardshertocrownthevictoriousgoddess.Gaearisesfrom the earthandinvainimploresmercyforherchildren.Dionysos withhissatyrsandhispanther,Poseidoninhischariotsurrounded withsea-monsters,Amphitrite,Ares,HephaBstos,Artemis,and Apollohaveallhurriedintothethickofthebattle.Eventhetriple- bodiedHecate,Cybeleonherlion,andthemystic Cabirwithhis hammerhavejoinedthewildmeltfeofhumanandanimalforms. Fortheshapesofthegiantsareasvariedasthoseofthegods.One ofthem,atthelastgaspofstrangulation,hastheheadandpawsof alionandthebodyof aman,whilehislower limbsendinsnakes. Manyof the othergiantsarealsoserpent-footedandseveralhave wings.Wildandbestialsonsofearthandyouthfulformsexciting VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. cv ourcompassionarealikeoverborneandcrushedbythetriumphant gods.Theymoanandwail,theywritheandturnintheirpain ordinaryanddespair,developmenttheexpressioninGreekoftheirartdeath-agonyascomparedmarkingwiththean'extra-gentle painedsmilesofthedyingwarriorsintheMgina.Marbles,which seemtoimplythatabravemanshouldacceptdeathwithoutmuch ado.AndthedifferencebetweenthestormymovementofthisPer- gameneworkandtheserenesymmetryof thevEginetanfiguresis equallygreat.TheearlierPergameneworks,suchastheDying Gaul,theBoncompagniGroup,andthestatuesfromthememorialof Attalos,inspiteoftheirgreatexpressiveness,stillretaintheentire inheritanceofthatmeasuredseveritywhichcharacterisesGreek sculpturetheround. in IntheGigantomachia,however,therelief isanaidtotheextremeofboldnessinsteadofarestraint.The freedomofthepainterhasbeenadoptedin thesereliefs; thereis notraceofanylimitationimposedbythematerialorbytechnical rules; theyadaptthemselves,asifitwerethemostnaturalthing intheworld,toeveryidea,toeverynuanceoffeeling.Wecannot withholdourenthusiasticadmirationfromtheirincredibletechnical excellence,theirmarvellousinnateforceandoriginality,their wealthofinvention,theirdelightin creationandpower,theircom pletefreedomfromtheservilitytothepastwhichcomplainsthat theoldermastershaveleftnothingmoretodo.Ourideaof the standardofintellectualvigourandartisticeminenceinPergamon atthisperiodmust,indeed,beamuchhigheronethantheclassical formulaofWinckelmannwouldallow. AssoonasthePergamenesculpturesbecameknown,students ofartwerestruckbythegreatsimilaritybornebysomeoftheirindi vidualfigurestocelebratedworksofancientmasters.Theattitude oftheFarneseHercules,forinstance,becomesatoncemorefullof lifeandmeaningifwesupposethatthelittleTelephosisathisfeet. Fromsuchanaccumulationofwealth,it isbutnaturalthatposterity shouldborrowandremould.Thecorrespondenceofgreatestinter estinthehistoryofartisthatbetweenthefamousLaokoonand thegiantinthePergamenesculptureswhoisattackedbytheser pentofAthena,whilepointsofresemblancearealsofoundinthe figuresofothergiants.Theageof theLaokoongrouphaslongbeen asubjectofdispute; itmustnowbeadmittedthatit islaterthan thePergamenesculptures,sinceitmakesuseofmotiveswhichare usedwithgreateroriginality,definiteness,andweightintheGi gantomachia.Itmust,however,havebeenexecutedbefore,orat Utestattheverybeginningof,theRomanimperialperiod,for a paintingatPompeii,thecompositionofwhichisundoubtedlya reminiscenceoftheLaokoon,belongstothestyleofmuraldecor- JtionusualinthetimeofAugustusandhisimmediatesuccessors. Thedatewhichmustbeassignedtotheworkisthusdetermined within150oratmost200years,anditisprobablethatfarther VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. comparativestudyofitsstylewillshowthattheLaokoonwaspro ducedabout100yearsbeforethebeginningoftheChristianera, orafewyearsearlier.Extantinscriptionswiththenameofthe sculptorpointtothesamedate.Thegroupwas,aswethussee, stillanoveltyinRome,whenVirgilcomposedhispoeticcounter partofthewonderfulplasticgroup.Inanycase,however,the LaokoonisaGreekwork,notaRomanone.Itdoesnot begina neweraofait,butbringsupthereara oflongseries,justasother worksofaboutthesameperiodmarkthecloseofothertendencies inGreekart.TheLaokoongroupisascribedtoAgesander,Po- lydoros,andAthanodorosofRhodes,thatpowerfulandwealthy mercantilerepublic,whichmaintaineditsimportanceunimpaired throughoutthecontestsoftheDiadochiandcontinuedtobeaflour ishingseatcommerce of andarttilllateintheRomanperiod.After thesuccessfulrepulseof theattackofDemetriosPoliorketes,art, whichwascultivatedatRhodeswithintelligenceandtaste,received anewandpowerfulimpetus.AtthisperiodaRhodiansculptor, CharesofLindos,apupilofLysippos,finishedaftertwelveyears' labour,a ColossalBronzeStatueofHelios,thetutelarydeityof Rhodes,105ft.high,whichrankedasoneofthewondersofthe world.Thewidespreadmodernbeliefthatthisfigurestoodastride theentrancetotheharbourofRhodesis,however,oneofthose fantasticandobstinateerrors,theoriginofwhichisasdifficultto explainasthebeliefitselfistoeradicate.TheRhodiansafterwards graduallyerectedmorethanahundredothercolossi,thoughnone ofthemweresolargeasthefirst.Rhodianwealth,luxury,andlove ofdisplaygavefullemploymenttotheartistswhoflockedtothe island.Thegroupoftheso-calledFarneseBull,executedbyApol- loniosandTauriskosofTralles,stoodatRhodesbeforeitwasre movedtoRome.Thisboldcompositionshowsmuchmoremove mentandismorepicturesquelyconceivedthantheLaokoon,which it isusualtopraiseasthe'mostperfectlyharmonious'workofan cientart.Initsdelineationofformitis,however,muchearlierin style,muchmorecloselyalliedtotheDying GaulandotherPer- gamenesculptures.Atthisperiod,indeed,thevariousstreamsof artmustoftenhaveintermingled.Theartisthadthecommandof suchawealthofinheritedmotivesandmodesofexecutionthathe couldusenowthisandnowthat,asamusicianplaysondifferent instruments.Theimposingheroicgenrealternatedwiththeidyllic anddelicate;celebratedworksofallschoolswerecopied;forevery newtasktheartistcouldfindanancientmodel. ForRome,i.e.forallarchitectureorsculptureof aNational SomanCharacter,themodelswerenaturallyfoundinthemost recentachievementsofGreekart,whichlaynearestnotonlyin timebutinsimilarityofcircumstancesandneeds,injudgmentand taste.SuchwerefoundinthesumptuousmonumentsofAlexandria, Antioch,Pergamon,andRhodes,withtheirelaboratereliefsand VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. ovii fgroupso sculture.TheBeliefsonTrajan'sColumn,whichmay betakenasmarkingtheheightofthesculpturalexpressionofthe feelingofRomannationality,simplycontinueaprocesswhichhad begunatPergamon; and thoughthebirthplaceoftheindividual artistof is lessimportanceinanepochofuniversalmonarchy,when allintellectualandartisticinterestisfocussedinonepoint, yet wecannotbutrememberthatApollodoros,thegreatarchitectwho seemstohavegivenhisstamptotheartof Trajan'stime,wasa nativeoftheEast,havingbeenbornatDamascus.Inthewayof noveltyofprinciplenothingremainedtopaganartexcepttheform ofarchaismthatdisplaysitselfinanarbitraryreturntolongex tinctstylisticforms,andtheeclecticismthatiscloselyrelatedto archaism. eIfw haverightlyinterpretedtraces theofhisinfluence,the sculptorPasiteles,a nativeLower ofItaly,seemstohavepractised aneclecticandarchaisticartinthelastdaysoftheRomanRe publicandtohave foundedaschoolwhichcarriedonhismethods. Hewasanartistofextraordinaryversatility,diligence,andpa tience,whowasskilfulwiththepenaswellaswiththechiseland wroteatreatiseonthemostcelebratedworksofartindifferent countries.Thebeliefpressesitselfuponus,thatthislearnedactiv ity,aproductofacertaindefinitetendencyofthetime,exercised aninfluenceatoncereactionaryandprogressive.Alleclectics,the CarraceiaswellasRaphaelMengs,areconnoisseursoftheartthat precededthem.Thesameconflictthat existedintheworldofletters betweentheselectionofmodelsandthedegreeoforiginalitypre servedinpresenceofthesemodels,musthaveexistedthesphere in ofartalso;boththeoneandtheotherwasanaturalresultofthe politicalpositionofRome.ItappearsasifPasiteleswereas dissatisfiedwiththerestlessboldnessofthecrowdedRhodian groupsashewaswearyofthesmootheleganceandsuperficialideal ismofthelaterAtticschool.Whileheaimedatthemostcareful andindependentimitationofnature,andwishedtocombinethe meritsandavoidthedefectsofallschools,hefelthimselfspecially attractedbythesimplicity,naivete',andforceoftheearliermasters. Inthesamewayaformofeclecticisminourowntimesgone has back,notliketheCarraceiandMengstoCorreggio,Titian,Raphael, orMichaelAngelo,buttothePre-RaphaelitePainters.Thebeau tifulOroupofaWomanandYouthintheBoncampagniMuseum ofwhichsomanydifferentexplanationshavebeenoffered,shows thattheschoolofPasitelesdidnotcontentitselfmerelywiththe formsofarchaicartbutwasalsowillingtotakehintsfromalater andmoreperfectdevelopment.Accordingtotheinscriptiononthe baseitwasexecutedbyMenelaos,apupilofStephanos,whowas himselfa pupilofPasiteles.Itsgeneralappearanceisso attrac tive,itsdesignandcompositionsocarefullythoughtout,the dra peryandthenudehavebeentreatedwithsuchfidelityandin oviii VI.HISTORYOFGREEKART. dustry, thatwefeelsomeremorsjinlayingbareitsweaknesses. Much,however,asitretainsofthetruespiritofGreekbeauty, thisgroupisemphaticallytheworkofan'Epigonos'—anartist ■whohassurrenderedhimselftothestudyofanideal,whichhas Itsrootsnotinhisowntimebutinpreviouscenturiesandhasbeen evokedbyknowledgeofandreverenceforthepast.Inspiteof theevidenteffortatsimpleandperspicuousgrouping,themeaning ofthepassingmomentrepresentedisnotperfectlyunambiguous; inspiteoftherichnessofitsplasticexecution,thecomposition asawholesuggestsapictorialdesignratherthanonethoughtout intheround.InthestudiosofmenlikePasitelesandStephanos, originalworksandcopiesandvariationsofolderworkswerepro ducedaccordingtotherequirementsandwishesofcustomers.Prob ablymanyofthecopiesofthemostcelebratedGreek worksthat arenowintheRomanmuseumscomefromsuchstudios. InthetimeofHadrianeclecticismassumeswilderforms.Under thegreatrulerTrajan,amanofcharacterthoughnotofartistic tastes,artreflectsthehonourable,virtuous,andsingle-mindedna tureofthemonarchitcelebrates.Undertheswayofhissucces sorHadrian,withhisclaimstoconnoisseurshipandhispersonal interventioninartisticmatters,thebroadchannelofartwasdi videdintoaninfinityoftinyrivulets.Tastesbecamemorecom plex,theartistbecamemoreandmorepedantic,andstronger stimulantsweredemanded.Theformsofthemostwidelyseparated countriesandageswerereproducedsidebyside,justasmodern Munichmaybedescribedasa museumofarchitecturalstyles. ArchaismevenwentbacktoEgyptforitsmodels,butreproduced theminweakenedanddilutedform.AmixtureofGreekand Egyptianartwaspopular,Hadriandistinguishedhimselfbyintro ducingGreekformsintoEgypt,andEgyptianformsintoItaly. Thehighestmarkreachedduringthisperiodinelegance,technical skill,andinventionismoatdearlyshowninthenumerousStatues andBeliefsof Antinous.Butahealthytastewillnotfindperman entsatisfactioninthisbeautifulbutmelancholyideal.Thereign ofHadrianmayhaveimmenselyencouragedthemultiplicationof worksofartandevenstimulatedtheskilloftheartist,butinthe historyofartitcanberegardedonlyasalastdyingeffort;after theattempttointroducechangesofidealthrougheclecticismand archaism,only thepossibleoutcomewasdecay. SincetheerectionofthegreatmemorialofAttalosontheAcro polis,Athenshadfrequentlyreceivedtokensoftherespectof foreign princesandpatrons.Itismelancholytoreflectthatthe city,whichhadoncetakentheleadinallthatwasbestpoetry in andart,whichhadimposeditsrulesoftasteuponthewholeofthe HellenicandpartoftheBarbaricworld(downeventothestamps onthecoinsofthePersiansatrapies)—thatthiscity,during thelastcenturiesofancientart,hadnothingtoshowbutrepro VI. HISTORYOFGREEKART. cix ductionsandechoesofwhathadbeencreatedelsewhere.The descendantsoftheproudvictorsofMarathonhadsunksolowasto welcomewithdelightthefavoursofanyandeverystrangerandto acknowledgethemwiththemostunmeasuredexpressionsofgrati tude.EumenesII.andAttalosII.builtherestoasandcolonnades, aSyriannamedAndronikoserectedanoctagonalclock-towerwith »vaneandthe unpleasinggodsofthewindsinrelief,Caesarand AugustusprovidedtheAgorawithanewgate,andAgrippapresent edthecitizenswithasmalltheatre.Thechiefbenefactor,how ever,was theEmperorHadrian,thoughHerodesAtticus,aprivate citizenandnativeofAthens,viedwithhiminthemagnificenceof hisdonations.TheOlympieion,orTempleoftheOlympianZeus, whichhadteenbegunbyPeisistratosandcontinued(aftercen turiesofrepose)bytheRomanarchitectCossutiusattheexpense ofAntioehosIV.Epiphanes,wasfinallycompletedbyHadrianwith unexampledmagnificence.ANewAthensofRomanvillassprang upinthequarternearthistemple.HerodesAtticusprovidedthe PanathenaicStadionwithmarbleseatsandbuilttheOdeion,at thebaseoftheAcropolis,notfarfromthegreatTheatreofDion- ysos.Inspite,however,ofthebeautyofthegroupofCorinthian columnsattheOlympieion,inspiteof thereflectionthatthebuild ingsmusthavebeenof thegreatestbenefittothecitizens,in spiteoftheirinstructivenatureandan inherentattractiveness whichwoulddelightusanywhereelse—inspite,too,ofthe mostconscientiousefforttoincludethemasnecessarypartsof the widesthistoricalview,wecannotridourselvesthefeeling of that theyareinterlopersinAthens.Thebuildingsandruinsoftheage ofPeriklesaloneharmonisewiththenoblenaturalsceneryaround Athens,towhichindeedtheyadda freshcharm;theyalone adaptthemselvestotheidealAthenswhichformsthemostcostly treasurebequeathedtousbythegloriousmemoriesofancient Greekhistory. ThosewhowishtoextendtheirstudiesinGreekArtwillfindample materialinthefollowingworks: — EeinrichBrunn's'Geschiehtegriechischen der Kiinstler1 (1853-59); Mnckelmann's'HistoryofAncientArt1(Engl,trans,byG.H.Lodge;London, 1381);A.8.Murray's'HistoryofGreekSculpture'(2vols.;London,1880-83); I-iillce's'HistoryofArt'(Engl,trans,editedbyC.Cook;NewYork,1S78) and'HistoryofSculpture1(trans,byF. E.Bunnett;London,1872);Frie- derictts''BausteinezurGeschiehtedergriechisch-romischenPlastik1(new ed.byPaulWolters); Mrs.LucyM.Mitchell's'HistoryofAncientSculpture1 (London,1883);F.vonReber's'HistoryofAncientArt(trans,byDr.Joseph T.Clarke; London,1883); SirG. T.Newton's'EssaysonArtandArchaeo logy'(London,1880);M.Collignon's'Manueld'Arcbdologie1(Engl,trans,byJ. H.Wright;1884);MissJaneHarrison's'IntroductoryStudiesinGreekArt 'London,1885); /.Overbeck's'GeschiehtedergriechischenPlastik1ed.; (3rd Leipzig,1880-83);Durm's'BaukunstderGriechen"(1881). CI VLT. BooksandMaps. The testimonyoftheaucientadoesnotaffordusacomplete pictureofancientAthens,butitsupplieswith ussomefeaturesofit. InthegreatgeographicalworkofStrabo(ca.66B.C.-ca.24A.D.J thesectiondevotedtoAthensandAttica,whichheperhapsnever visited,isshortandunsatisfactory.Ourchiefsourceofinformation aboutAthensandtherestofGreeceisthedescription(nEpiTj^Tjai? TfjC'EXXcKo;)ofPausanias,whotravelledinGreeceinthesecond centuryofthepresentera.Scholarsarestillengagedin tryingto ascertaintheexactdegreeoforiginalityinthetenbooksofthiB workandtodeterminehowfarPausaniashastrustedtootherau thorities.AmonghispredecessorswerePolemon,a contemporary ofPtolemyEpiphanes(B.C.205-181),whogivesa descriptionof thePergamenevotivememorialatAthensin his'UniversalGeo graphy'(nepit^Tjai?xoo|iiXT)),andHeliodoros,whowroteabook abouttheAcropolis; allthatisknownof theseworks,however,is intheshapeofcitationsbyotherauthors. The firsttravellerfromtheWest,whoendeavoured,afterthe revivaloflearning,tospreada detailedknowledgeofthe extant monumentsofGreece,wasCyriacusde'Pizzicolle,generallyknown asCyriacusofAncona,whovisitedAthensin1437and1448.His drawingsofwhatseemedtohimthemostinterestingmonuments areknownfromthealbumofthearchitectsAntonioandFrancesco daSanGallo(after1465),preservedintheBarberiniLibraryat Home,andfromanumberofunskilfulcopiesmadebyHartmann Schedel(1440-1514),aphysicianofNuremberg.AnoriginalMS., describinghisfirstjourney,wasdiscoveredinthatpartoftheHa miltonCollectionwhichisnowatlierlin. Thesemi-scientifictraditionscurrentamongtheGreeksofthe timeinreferencetotheextantmonumentsofantiquityhavebeen preservedintwoMSS.ofthe15thcentury,foundinthepublic librariesofParisandVienna.ThecaptureofAthensbytheTurks in1466interruptedthesestudiesforanothercentury.Inthe secondhalf of16th thecentury,however,ProfessorMartin KrausofTubingensucceededinelicitingsomecuriouspiecesof InformationaboutthevanishedantiquitiesofAthensfromthe higherGreekclergyatConstantinople,andtheseareprintedin his'Tnrcogrsecia'.Inthefirstquarterofthe17thcenturyMeur- siuspublishedhiscollectionsofliteraryreferencestoGreece, the comparativecompletenessofwhichrendersthemstilluseful. Thesecondhalf of17th thecenturysawaconsiderableincrease inthenumberofEuropeantravellerswhoendeavouredtoconnect theexistingmonumentsofAthenswiththepassagesreferringto theminancientwriters.TheFrenchmanGiraud,longresidentin AthensasBritishconsul,wasoneofthemostactiveinthiswork. TheFrenchCapuchins,whosettledatAthensin1658,madethe VII. BOOKSANDMAPS. oxl first planthe ofcityshowingtheancientremains.Acopyofthiswas publishedbyDeOuilletofParisinhis'Athenesanciennesetnou- velles'(1675),withadditions,which,however,werenotbasedon personalinvestigation.Aboutthesameperiod(1674-76)thePrus sianJ.G.TransfeldtlivedinAthensasaTurkishprisoner-of-war, andhehasleftseveralcorrectidentificationsofthemonumentsin Ms'ExamenreliqnarumantiquitatumAtheniensium'. Of greaterimportancearethedrawingsofAthensits andruins madein1674byJacquesCarrey,whotravelledthesuite in of theMarquisNointel,ambassadorofLouisXIV.intheLevant (seep.71).TheAbbe"Pecoil,anothercompanionof theMarquis, inducedJacquesPaulBabin,alearnedAthenianJesuit,tocompose aletterontheantiquitiesofAthens(1674). Thefirstscientificattemptsata systematictopographicalde scriptionofAthensweremadeinthetravelsofSpon('Voyage d'ltalie,deGrece,etduLevant';Lyons,1678)andWheler('Journey intoGreeceincompanyofDr.Spon';London,1682).Oneresult oftheVenetianexpeditionagainstAthensin1687wasthe preparationof plansofthetownandtheAcropolis,whichappeared inFanellfs'Ateneattica'(1707).OfthesameperiodareCoronel- Wiplan('Anticaemodernacittad'Atene')andsomeanonymous views.ThemostcomprehensiveworkonAthensinthe15-17thcent, is'Athenesauixv,xvi,etxvnsiecles',byDeLaborde(Paris,1854). A descriptionthemost of importantsculpturesandbuild ingsofAthenswaspublishedin1751byDalton,thepainter.All thesepublications,however,weremuchsurpassedinscientific valueby 'TheAntiquitiesofAthens',aworkinfourlargevolumes, publishedbyJamesStuartandNicholasRevettin1762-1816. In ordertocarryonStuart'sworkthe'SocietyofDilettanti'sent anexpeditiontoGreecein1765,thechiefresultofwhichwas Chandler's'TravelsintoGreece'(Oxford,1776).Chandlerwas followedbyDodwell,withhis'ClassicalandTopographicalTour throughGreece'(1819)and'ViewsandDescriptionsofCyclopian orPelasgicRemainsinGreeceandItaly'(London,1834); byOell, withhis'ItineraryofGreece'(London,1810and1819)and'Nar rativeof aJourneyintheMorea'(London,1823); andbyLeake, themostimportantofallthetopographicalwritersuponGreece, withhis'TopographyofAthens'(London,1821),whichwasre modelledandrepublishedin1841asthefirstvolumeof'TheTo pographyofAthensandtheDemi'(London).TheworkofK.S. Pittakis,entitled'L'ancienneAthenesouladescriptiondesanti- quitesd'Athenesetdesesenvirons'(Athens,1835),occupiesa lowerlevel.Inthemeantimehadbeguntheexcavationscarried on inAthensin1834-36byLudwigRoss,withtheaidofSchau- hertandHansen,twoGermanarchitects.Atalaterperiodsuccess fulexcavationswerecarriedonbytheFrenchscholarBeuli, the PrussianExpeditionunderBotticher,Curtius,andStrack(1862), cxii VII.BOOKSANDMAPS. theGreekArchaeologicalSociety(p.94), andothers.—Curtius's 'Peloponnesos1(2vols.;Gotha,1851-52)isanadmirableandskil fulcombinationofantiquarianloreandgeographicalresearch.To- zer's'LecturesontheGeographyofGreece'(London,1873)may alsobementioned. AmongthemorerecentcomprehensiveworksonAthensmay bementionedForchkammer's 'TopographievonAthen'(1841); Curtius's'AttischeStudien'(1862-65)andthetexttotheseven 'KartenzurTopographieAthens'(1868);Wordsworth's'Athens andAttica'(4thed„1869);Dyer's'AncientAthens,itsHistory, Topography,andRemains'(London,1873);Wachsmuth's'DieStadt AthenimAlterthum'(Vol.I,1874);andMissJaneE.Harrison's andMrs.Verrall's'MythologyandMonumentsofAncientAthens' (London1890). Among themodernEnglishworksdealingwiththeexistingremains oftheancientmonuments,are: Leake's'TravelsintheMorea'(3vols.; London,1830),'Peloponnesiaea'(London,1846),asupplementtothelast, and'TravelsinNorthernGreece'(4vols.;London,1835);W.G.Clark"1* 'Peloponnesus'1(London,1858);W.Mure1*'JournalofaTourinGreece' (1842);J.P.Mahals'RamblesandStudiesinGreece"(3rded.,1887);'Im pressionsofGreece',bySirThomasWyse,lateBritishMinisteratAthens (London,1871);MissAgnesSmith's'GlimpsesofGreekLifeandScenerv' (London,1884);/.T.BenVs'Cycladea'(London,1885);'AnEasterVacation inGreece,withListsofRooksonGreekTravelandTopographyand Time-TablesofGreekSteamersRailways', and byJ.E.Sandys(London, 1887).—ThefollowingarerecentEnglishworksontheconditionof modernGreece:'TheGreeksofTo-day',hyChas.K.Tuckerman,lateU.S. MinisterinAthens(3rded.,NewYork,1886);'NewGreece',byLewis Sergeant(London,1878); C.C.Felton's'Greece,AncientandModern1(Boston, U.S.A.,1867;secondvolume);'Greece,itsConditionandResources',by Edw.Strickland(London,1863);andR.C.JeWs'ModernGreece1(Lon don,Among 1880).thebest,historiesofAncientGreecearethoseofGroteand ErnstCurtius(Engl,trans,byA.W.Ward).Aconvenientmanualis Dr.Wm.Smith's'Student'sHistoryofGreece1.ThestandardEnglishwork onthemediaevalandmodernhistoryofGreeceisGeorgeFinlay's'Hist oryofGreecefromitsConquestbvtheRomanstothepresent time, B.C. 116toA.D.1864'(newed.,editedbyH.F.Tozer;Oxford,1877). Maps. TheGermanArchaeologicalInstitute(p.94)haspublishedan admirableAtlasofAttica,onascaleof1:25,000,preparedmainlybyof ficersofthePrussianGeneralStall'underthesuperintendenceofCurtivs andKaupert;andalsosimilarmapsofOlympiaanditsenvirons(byKau- pert)andofMycenaeandTiryns(byCapt.Stevens).—Theonlymapofthe remainderofGreecebaseduponscientificsurveyisthatpreparedbythe FrenchGeneralStaffontheExpeditiondeMor4ein1832;thisconsistsof 20sheetsonascale1:250,000 of (1852),butitisnowout ofprintand cannotbeobtainedexceptinimpressionsfromwornplates.Itformsthe groundworkoftheGreekOrdnanceMap(xa'pT*]?toufiajiXefouttjcEXXa- 8oc)5preparedbyKonkidesnn^Eiepertona scaleof1:300,000(11sheets; publishedbytheMilitaryGeographicalInstituteofVienna,18"?5).The GreekcoastsandislandsareexcellentlygivenintheEnglishAdmiralty Charts,whichhaveappeared'since1829andareconstantlyrevisedandim proved.AcataloguemaybeobtainedfromE.Stanford,26CockspurSt., CharingCross,London.—ThefullestmapsofAncientGreecearecon tainedinH.KieperVs'NeuerAtlasvonHellasunddenHellenischenCo lonic^(15plates;Berlin,1872). 1. FromMarseillesandMessinatothePiraeus(Athens). The Steamebsofthefollowingcompaniesply regularlytothePiraeus. Itis,however,desirabletocomparethemostrecenttime-tablesandto makeenquiryonthespot.—1.MessageriesMaritime*deFrance:Con stantinopleLine,oncefortnightlyfromMarseilles,startingonSat.after noonarriving and onWed.afternoon(fares1stcl.225fr.).Inthealternate weeksanothersteamerofthiscompanyleavesMarseillesforConstantinople viaKalamataandSyra(Hermoupolis; p.140),arrivingatSyraonThurs. forenoon(fare1stcl.190fr.).—SyeianLine,oncefortnightly,startingon Sat.afternoonandarrivingonWed.forenoon(fares1stcl.225,2ndcl. 160fr.).—2.Fraistinet&Co.,everyThurs.forenoonfromMarseillesvia GenoatothePirieusandSyra(1stclass200or215,2ndclass120140 orfr.). —3.Navigationsgenerateitaliana(Fiorio-Jtubattino),fromPalermoviaMes sinaandCataniatothePiraeus,weekly,leavingMessinaonTues.night (farescl. 1st136fr.60,2ndcl.84fr.60c).—4.TheGreekcompany Panheltemot(p.xx),fromMarseillestothePiraeus,fortnightly,starting onThurs.afternoon. Marseilles,seeBaedeker'sNorthernItaly.Thevoyagefrom MarseillestoMessinaviaPalermotakes2'/2days.—Messina(Al- bergoVittoria,alargeestablishment;Bellevue),atown-with70,000 inhab., commandedbythedismantledfortsofCastellaccioand Oomaga,isbeautifullysituated,butpresentsfewotherinduce mentstolinger. Ase w leaveMessinabehindus,Beggio,backedbyarangeof fertilehills,appearstotheleft;otherhills,ofamorebarren nature,arepassedfartheron.Afterl'/shr.thesteamerisoff theCapodelVArmi,theS.W.promontoryofCalabria.Thecoast isnowvisibleasfarastheCapodiSpartivento,thePromunturium Herculisoftheancients.Mt.Aspromontebecomesmoreimposing aswerecedefromthecoast.Tothe"W.risethemountainsofSi cily,terminatedapparentlybythenoblepyramidof.(Etna. On theseconddaythevesseliscompletelyoutofsightofland, butonthethirdtheCapeMessenia of (nowKavoGallo),withthe OenussaeIslandsinfrontofit,becomesvisible(comp.p.322).Be yondthe pointthecoastrecedesrapidlyandformstheGulfof Koron,theMessenianGulfoftheancients.Thesteamboatthen approachesCapeTaenaron,nowCapeMatapdn(p.264),theS.ex tremityofthe peninsulaofMaina(p.263).TotheN.E.appears theprecipitousrangeofTaygetos(7900ft.),thesummitofwhich iscoveredwithsnowfor.three-fourthsoftheyear.Ontheother sideofCapeMatapanopensthebroadLaconianGulf,nowtheGulf ofMarathonisi(p.263).ThevesselnextsteersbetweenCapeMalea andtheislandofKythera(p.262),andthensuddenlychangesits easterlycourseforanortherlyone.ThemountainsofCretearefor a shorttimevisibletotheS.E.ThebleakcoastofthePelopon nesusisnowgraduallyquitted,whiletotherightafewsmallis- Baedekeb'sGreece.2ndEdit. 1 2 Route1. PIRAEUS. FromMessina lands, belongingtotheCyclades,comeintosight.Spetsia,Hydra, andtheotherislandslyinginfrontofthepeninsnlaofArgolis (comp.p.249)arethenpassedontheleft,andfartheronarePoros (p.247)andthepyramidalpeakof5(.Elias,thehighestmountain intheislandofASgina(p.139).Ontherightliestheislandof Belbina(nowHagiosGedrgios),andbeyonditthehillypromontory ofAttica,terminatinginCapeSunion(p.132). ThesteamernowholdsadirectcourseforthePiraeusandthe coastofSalamis,withitsnumerousbays; onbothsidestheisland looksasifitwereconnectedwiththemainland.Thebarren, roundedhillnextvisibleinAtticaisHymettos; straightinfrontis Parnes,formingtheN.boundaryoftheAtticplain.OverSalamis peepstheloftysummitoftheQeraneiainMegaris(p.149).A hillextendingintothesea,behindwhichriseanumberofmasts, nowbecomesvisible.ThisisthePiraeus.Thehillashortwayin landisMunichia(p.Ill),andinfrontofitliestheBayofPha- leron(p.108).BetweenHymettosandParnesthegable-shaped Pentelikon(p.121)nowappears.Atthispointthesteamercom mandsacharmingofAthens view; inthecentretheAcropolis,to therightthemonumentofPhil6pappos,tothelefttheObserva tory.ThelargewhitebuildingtotheN.oftheAcropolisisthe Palace,beyondwhichrisestheLykabettos(p.105).—Assoonas thepromontoryofthePiraeushasbeenrounded,thetravellerper ceivestherockyisletofPsyttaleia(p.112),inthenarrowstrait betweenSalamisandthemainland.Thesteamernowsteersslowly intotheharbour. Piraeus(pronouncedPiraeevs),seep.109. As soonasthesteamerhaltsitissurroundedbya«rowdofsmall boats,andthehotel-toutspushtheirwayonboard.Luggagehadbetter beentrustedtothecommissionnaireofthehotelatwhichthetraveller meanstostay,andthatfunctionarywillsecureaboatandacarriage. Boat1 dr.,withluggage2dr.;carr.5-6dr.ThedrivetoAthenstakes ll/4hr.,butispreferabletotherailwayonaccountofthetroubleand expenseoftransferringluggagefromthesteamertothetrainandofthe distanceofthestationAthens at fromthehotels.Thosewhohavefixed upononeofthesmallerhotelsshouldwritebeforehandtoensurethe attendanceofthecommissionnaire. TheCustomHouseExaminationisshortandconfinedtothelarger articlesofluggage.—■ BritishandAmericanConsulates,seep.109. The RoadfromthePirjecstoAthensisatfirstuninterest ing.Assoonasthetownisquitted,tracesoftheancientwallsof thePiraeusareobservedontheright.Theroaditselfisconstructed onthenorthernmostofthetwolongwallsthatancientlyconnected Athenswithitsharbour.Then,totheright,appearstheMonument ofKaraiskakis(j>.andbeyond 108),ittheBayofPhaleron(jp.108). Themountainstotheleft,nowcalledSkarmangd,aretheALgaleos (p.114)andKorydallosofantiquity.Astonebridgeherecrosses thegenerallydrybedoftheKephisos.Vineyardsarethenpassed, andfartherontheskirtsof theancientolive-grovethatoccupies theplainoftheKephisos.Ahaltisusuallymadeatsometav to thePiraeus.THECYCLADES.J.Route.3 emshalfway,andthetravellermayhereordera'loukoumlora 'masticha'(10lepta;p. seexxv).Theolive-plantationsaresoon quitted,andahillpassedthat concealstheAcropolisfromview. Beyondthehillthewell-preservedTempleofTheseusbecomes visible,withtheAcropolisaboveit;in thebackgroundisthe monumentofPhilopappos,infrontofthelattertheAreopagus, andfarthertotherighttheObservatory.Thepoor-lookinghouses oftheHermesStreetsoonexcludethisview.—Athens,seep.34. The steamerforSyra(vesselsoftheSmyrnalineoftheAustrian LloydandoftheMarseilles-Kalamata-Syra-Oonstantinopleline of theMessageriesMaritimeseveryfortnight,seepp.1and4)steersa N.E.courseafterroundingCapeMalea(p.1).Ontherightappear thevolcanicislandofMelos(wheretheVenusofMilo,nowinthe Louvre,wasfoundin1820)andtheislandsofAntimelos,andKi- molosorArgentiera,withitsoldsilver-mines.Melosisalsoknown forthecrueltreatmentofitsinhabitantsbytheAtheniansinB. C.416. WethenpassbetweenSiphnosontherightandtheiron-producing Seriphosontheleft,andAndourselvesintheheartofthecompact groupofislandsinthejEgeanSea,knowntotheancientsastous astheCyclades,incontradistinctiontotheSporades,orscatteredis lands,oftheArchipelago.Theynowformanomarcny(1040sq.M.; 131,500inhab.),thecapitalofwhichisSyra.Totherightliethe smallAntiparoaandthemountainousParos,famousforitsmarble, againstthecapitalofwhichMiltiadesconductedanunsuccessful expeditionafterthebattleMarathon. of BehindParosisNaxos,the largestandmostfertileislandofthe group,with18,000inhab.; it istraversedbyseveralrangesofmountains,includingOzia(3290ft.), thehighestpeakintheCyclades.Withthisislandisconnectedthe mythofDionysosandAriadne.Thecapital'oftheisland,bearingthe Bamename,liesontheN.W.coastandwassubjugatedbythe AtheniansinB.C.466.From1207to1566itwasthecentreofa duchyunderVenetiandynasties.EmeryisfoundontheE.coast andexportedinconsiderablequantities.Totheleft,fartheron,is thesmallislandofSerphopoulo,andinthedistanceThermia,Tzfa orKia(Keos),andQioura(Gyaros).TheS.pointofSyra,Cape Vilostasi,isnowseenstraightahead.ThehorizonontheN.andN.E. isboundedbythelongandloftyoutlinesofAndrosandTenos, whilemoretotherightisMykonos(p.141),withRheneta(now MegdleDilos;p.146)andDelos(nowMikrdDilos;p.142).After passingtheKavoChodra,theS.E.promontoryofSyra,andthe isletsofAspronisiandGa'idaronisi(ontheright),wesuddenlyob tainaviewofthecapitalofSyra,beautifullysituatedontwohills attheheadofasmallbay. BermoupolisorNm-Syros,seep.140.

1* 4 2. FrpmTriesteandBrindisitoCorfii(andAthens). Thedatabelowshouldbecheckedbythemostrecenttime-tables.The prevalenceofacholeraepidemicmaycausemuchinconveniencetotravellers. FortheservicebetweenCorfiiandPireeusvia.PatrasandCorinthchanges willprobablytakeplacebytheopeningoftheCanalofCorinth(p.236). FromTrieste.AustrianLloyd(LloydAustro-Ungarico).1.Steamers oftheConstantinopleLine,onceweekly,viaBrindisitoCorfuin50hrs. (fares54fl.26kr.,37fl.25kr.,ingold),toPatrasin65hrs.(fares68fl.25kr., 46fl.25kr.)itothePireeusin4days(fares98fl.25kr.,67fl.25kr.,gold). ThevesselsleaveTriesteonSat.forenoon,BrindisionSun.night,and Corfu(afterstoppingfor3hrs.)onMon.afternoon,reachingPatrason Tues.morning,andthePiraeusonWed.forenoon.Inthereversedirection theystartonWed.atnoon,leavePatrasonThurs.evening,Corfu(after 3hrs.,halt)onFrid.atnoon,BrindisionSat.morning,andreachTrieste onSun.afternoon.Thejourneymaybe brokenatintermediateharbours (ticketsvalidtwomonthsfromdateofissue),butthefactmustbenoti fiedontheticketbythecaptain.—2.SmyrnaLine,every Tues.after noontoCorfuin72hrs.(Frid.afternoon;fares66fl.25kr.or63fl.25kr., and45fl.25kr.or43fl.25kr.),alternatelyviaFiumeandviaMedua%Du- razzo, Valona, andS.Quaranta;proceedingfromCorfiialternatelyvia. PatrasandviaArgost6litoZante,Kgthera,Krela(Syra),thePiraeus-,Chios, andSmyrna.InthereversedirectionthesteamersleaveCorfiionMon. morningorSun.forenoon,reachingTriesteon Thurs.morningorWed. forenoon.—3.ThessalianLine,everyWed.afternoontoCorfuin84or 73hrs.(Sun.morningorSat.afternoon),proceedingalternatelyviaFiume andviaMeduaandB.Quaranta.FromCorfiithesteamersgoonvia 8.Maura,Patras,Katdkolon(orsometimesArgostdlionly),Kalamata,the Piraeus(Volo),Saloniki,etc.Onthereturn-voyagethesteamersleavethe PireeusonWed.atnoon,KalamataonThurs.afternoon,CorfiionSat. eveningoratnoon,reachingTriesteonWed.morningorTues.forenoon. —4.AlbanianLine,everyMon.forenoon,toCorfuin6V2days(Sat.noon), touchingatnumerousportsinDalmatiaandAlbania,andproceedingvia S.MauratoPreveza.Onthereturn,CorfuisleftonSat.morning,and TriesteisreachedonFrid.afternoon. A steameroftheGreekcompanyPomhelUnios(p.xix)leavesTrieste everyalternateThurs.forenoonforCorfu(Sat.afternoon),Patras, Ktstd- kolon,Kalamata,andthe Piraeus(Tues.afternoon);faresratherlessthan bytheAustrianLloyd. FromBrindisitoCorfu, fourtimesweeklyin12hrs.AustrianLloyd, onMon.at1a.m.; fares14fl.40kr.,9fl.80kr.ingold;toPatras28fl., 19fl.gold.—Navigazionegenerateitaliana(Florio-Rvbattino),onMon.,Wed., andThurs.atmidnight;fares32,22fr.,toPatras58,40fr.—TheLloyd steamerreturnsfromCorfuonFrid.atnoon,theNavig.ital.steamerson Wed.at2p.m., andSat.at4p.m.—FromBrindisitothePiraeus.Navi gazionegen.italiana,onWed.atmidnight,viaCorfu(fares161,132fr.), reachingthePireeusonSat.afternoon;returningdirectfromthe Pirteua onFrid.at2p.m.,reachingBrindisionSun.afternoon. Trieste(HoteldelaVille; Hot.Delorme;Europa),seeBaedeker's SouthernGermanyAustria.—OnthevoyagefromTriesteto Fiumethesteamerremainswithinsightofthehilly,olive-clad coastofIstria.AmongtheprincipalplacespassedareRovignoand Pola,thelatterfamousforitsRomanantiquities.Fiume(Albergo Europa;HotelLloyd; Hot.Deak)istheonlyseaportofHungary. On thedirectvoyagetoAncona,Brindisi,orCorfuthecoast sometimesdisappearsentirely.Brindisi(GrandHoteldesIndes Orientates,attheharbour,3/4M.fromtherailway-station,R.3,D. 5fr.; Europa,R. fr.),theancientBrentesionorBrundisiumt

CORFU. 3.Route.5 isnowagain,asofyore,animportantstarting-pointforGreeceand theEast.Fordetails,seeBaedeker'sSouthernItaly, On quittingtheharbourofBrindisithesteamersteerstowards theS.E., andthelandsoondisappears.Earlynextmorningthe outlinesofAlbania(Turkey)comeinsight,andlatertheislandof Corfu.OthonouS)Erfkousi,andtheotherOthonianIslands(p.13) &T6seentotheright.Totheleft,inAlbania,risetheloftypeaks ofKontoVouni.ThesceneryofthewidestraitofCorfu,separa tingtheislandfromthemainland,isveryimposing.Totheright towersMonteSanSalvatore(p.14).Thebeautifully-situated townofCorfti.isatfirstconcealedbytheislandofVido.Oncast inganchorwehaveonourleftthedoubleprotuberanceoftheFort- ezzaVecchiaand ontherightthedarkrampartsoftheFortezza Nuova,surmountedbyabuildingoflightercolour; farthertothe rightisthesuburbofMandoukio. 3.Corfu. Arrival.Boattoorfromtheateamer1dr.,withheavyluggage 2 dr. Theboatmenareinsolent,thereisnotariff,andgreatconfusion prevails,sothatthetravellerhadbetterallowthecommissionnaireof thehoteltosettlewiththeboatmenandattendtotheluggage,forwhich achargeof2^2>/adr.ismadeinthebill.Thecustom-houseexamination isquicklyover.—Passengersintendingtocontinuetheirvoyagebythe samesteamermaybargainwithaboatmantobetakenonshoreand broughtbacktotheshipfor1 dr.Theboatmanisinstructedtobein waitingatthehourwhenthetravellerreturns,andshouldbe notpaid untilthesteamerisreached.Thehourofdepartureofthesteamermay beascertainedfromthecaptain. Hotels(paymentsingold).*H6telSt.George,frequentedbythe English;*Hoteld'AngleterreetBelleVenise.Thesetwoareofthe firstclass,withbaths;theback-windowsoverlooktheEsplanade; R.from 3 fr.,L. B-i)luncheon3,D.4y2,pension9-12,foralongstay8-10, bottleofEnglishorViennabeer2,Corfuwine(somewhatinsipid)1, Ithakawine2lfafr.—PensionJdlie,wellspokenof;H5teld'Orient ('AvotoXtj),bothneartheHotelSt.George; Pens.Patras,Nikephoros Street.—HSteldeConstantinople,HotelAlessandria(pens.6dr.), twounpretendinghousesneartheharbour,frequentedbyGreeks.—Private Lodging!veryprimitiveandscarcelyadaptedforforeigners. Cafes. Theprincipalcafe'sareintheEsplanade, atthebeginning of theavenue mentionedatp.7;cupofcoffeepreparedintheTurkish manner151.—RestaurantAbbondanza(A(p&ov£a),intheNikephorosStreet. — Beerinthehotels,atVervizioiisyintheNikephorosStreet,nearthe Esplanade;Viennabeerl>/2,nativebeer*/«fr.perbottle,alsoAchaean wine(p.30).Englishginger-beer('Tzintzibirra')151. Post Office,behindtheSanita,atthebeginningoftheNikephoros Street.—TelegraphOffice,intheEsplanade,nearthegymnasium(p.8), —SteamboatOffices,allinthestreet'SulleMura"(p.7).—Money,see p.XXV.Carriagesobtainedatthehotels;driveinthetownorenvirons5fr.; forlongerexcursions,seebelow.—Boatsmayalsobehiredatthehotels. Valets-de-Plaoe,5fr.perday,maybedispensedwith.—Gocrierfor atournin Greece,AlexanderS.Uva,recommended(speaksFrenchand alittleEnglish). Photographs.AtA.Farugia't,bookbinder,intheEsplanadeopposite thenTheatre,H6telSt.aGeorge.oldVenetianbuilding,neartheabove-mentionedcafe's; 6 Route3, CORFU. History. Italianoperainwinter.—MilitaryBandontheEsplanade,severaleven ingsweekly. BritishConsul,R.Reade,Esq.—UnitedStatesConsularAgent, Q. RaymondfiEsq. English ChurchServiceintheoldHouseofParliamentat 10.30and 5(inwinter11and3)$Chaplain,Rev.Dr.Dawes. Climate.In thelatterhalfofMarch,inApril,andinMay(some timesinJune)the climateofCorfuisusuallycharming,andaresidence hereatthatseasonofluxuriantvegetationisdelightful.Thetemperature isalsomildandequableduringOctoberandthefirsthalfofNovember, but June(generally),July,August,and(often)Septemberareveryhot,andin winterheavyrainsandsuddenchangesoftemperatureareoffrequent occurrence.Asa winter-residenceforinvalids,particularlythosewith pulmonarycomplaints,itthereforecomparesunfavourablywiththebestr knownhealth-resortsofItaly.—ThereareseveralItalianPhysicianshere. ThebestchemistsareCollasandLavrano. Bathst a thehotels; alsoatthesea-bathingestablishmentatthePunta 8.Nicolb. Corfu(GreekKipxupoc,Kerkyra),thecapitaloftheislandofthe samename(277sq.M.j 114,500inhab.)andofanomarchyorprov inceincludingtheislandsofPaxos,Antipaxos,andLeukas,andthe seatofarchbishopsoftheGreekandRomanCatholicchurches,is oneofthemostprosperoustownsinmodernGreece.Withitssub hab.,urbsofamongKastradeswhomorareOaritza4000RomanandMandoukioCatholicsitandcontains2700Jews.25,100Thein- spaciousandsafeharbourisenlivenedwithanactivetrade,con sistingchieflyin theexportofoliveoilandtheimportofRussian grainandEnglishmanufactures.Thefortificationsconstructedby theVenetians,theFortezzaVecchiatotheE.ofthetownandthe FortezzaNuovatotheN.W.,wereallowedtofallintodecayafter thedepartureoftheBritishin1864,andarenowunimportant. Asthetownwasformerly enclosedbyawall,itsbustlingstreeta areverynarrowandthehouses(allof stone)oftenfourorfive storieshigh. The nameofCorfit,whichcameintouseinthemiddleages, seems tobea corruptionofKoryphoorKorphous(atou?Kopcpouc)andwasat firstconfinedtotherockyheightsenclosedbytheoldfortress.Theold. GreeknamewasKdpxupaorKipxupa.TheancientsidentifiedCorfuwith thePhseacianislandofScheria,mentionedintheOdysseyasruledover byAlkinoos.Asthenavigationofantiquitywasmainlyconfinedto creepingalongthe coast,theislandsoonbecamean importantstation ofthetrafficbetweenItalyandGreece.Itsauthentichistorybeginswith theestablishmentofthecolonyofCorcyrabytheCorinthiansinB.C. 734.Thepoweroftheinfantcolonyincreasedsogreatlythatitsoon becamedangeroustotheauthorityofthemother-cityintheIonianwa ters.Thefirstnavalbattletowhichwecanaffixa datewasfought, accordingtoThucydides,inB.C.665betweentheCorinthiansandthe Corcyreeans; thelatterwerevictorious.Corcyradidnotshareinthe gloryofthePersianwars; itsfleetof50shipsreceivedorderstoawait theresultthe ofcontestoffCapeTeenarouandtothrowinitslotwith thevictors.TheinterventionofAthensinthedisputebetweenCorinth andCorcyraoverEpidamnosanditsparticipationinthenavalbattle offtheSybotaIslands(p.14)wereamongthechiefcausesofthePelo- ponnesianWar,duringthewholeofwhichCorcyrawasanallyof Athens.In B.C.Corcyra 373 successfullyresistedanattackoftheSpar tans,butinB.C.229itcameintothepossessionoftheRomans.Onthe partitionoftheByzantineempirebytheCrusadersin1205A.D., Corfu Royal Palace. CORFU. 3.Route.7 ofellt theshareoftheVenetians,whowerereplacedbythekingsof Naplesfrom1267to1386,butrecoveredtheislandinthelatteryearand maintainedtheirsupremacydownto1797.In1537and1716theTurks exhaustedtheirstrengthinvainintwocelebratedsiegesofCorfu.From 18071814 to theislandwasoccupiedbytheFrench;andfrom1815to 1863itformed,withtheotherIonianIslands,aHeptanlsoB,or'seven- islandstate',undertheprotectionofEngland.Itwastheresidenceof theBritishLordHighCommissioners,thefirstofwhomwasStrThomas Maitland('KingTom').In1858Mr.GladstonewassentasExtraordinary CommissionertotheIonianIslandstoconsiderthegrievancesofthe people,andforashorttimefilledtheofficeofLordHighCommissioner. OntheaccessionofKingGeorgeEnglandyieldedtothedesiresofthe islandersandconsentedtotheincorporationoftheislandsinthekingdom ofGreece(Nov.14th,1863). OndisembarkingwecrossthecourtoftheDogana,passthe smallHoteldeConstantinopleontheleft,andfollowthestreet calledSulleMura,whichskirtstheN.sideofthetown,affording numerousfineviews,andendsattheEsplanadeneartheRoyal Palace.Orwemayproceedfromtheharbourtotheleftthrough theNikephorosStreet('oo6cNixnjtpopou)totheEsplanadein 5minutes. IntheNikephorosStreet,totheleft,the ischurchofSt.Spiridion, asaintheldingreatreverencebytheGreeks.Spiridion,Bishop ofCyprus,wascruellytorturedduringtheDiocletianpersecution, but,thoughmutilated,survivedtoattendtheNicaeanCouncilin 326.HisbodywasbroughttoCorfuin1489andispreservedina silvercoffinina chapelnearthehigh-altar;thricea yearitis borneinsolemnprocessionthroughthetown. TheEsplanade(LaSpianata)isanextensiveopenspacebe tweenthetown andthe oldfortifications.Itistraversedbyan avenuewithdoublerowsoftrees, formingacontinuationofthe NikephorosStreet.OntheW.it isboundedbyhandsomehouses witharcadesontheground-floor,amongwhicharethetwoprincipal hotels.OntheN.siderisesthe— Royal Palace,athree-storiededificewithwings, ingreyMal tesestone,erectedfortheBritishLordHighCommissioner.A handsomemarblestaircaseascendstothefirstfloor,wherethe vestibulecontainsanantiquelioncouchant(p.9).Thethrone-room ibadornedwithportraitsofBritishsovereigns, andthecouncil- chamberoftheci-devantIonian Senatecontainsportraitsofthe presidents(visitorsgenerallyadmittedonapplication,entr.bya side-doorontheW.side;fee1fr.).—Infrontofthepalaceis abronzeStatueofSirFrederickAdam, whoconferrednumerous benefitsontheislandduringhistenureofofficeasLordHigh Commissioner(1823-32;p.11). TotheS.ofthelongEsplanadeareasmallCircularTemple, erectedin1816inhonourofSirThomasMaitland(see above),and anObelisktoCommissionerSirHowardDouglas(1843). At theendoftheavenueleadingtothefortress, ontheleft,is amonumentcommemoratingthegallantdefenceofCorfuagainst 8 Route3. CORFU. Kastrades. theTurksbythe"VenetiangeneralCountvonderSchulenburgin 1716.Wenowcrossthebridgeoverthewideanddeepmoat,and reachthe— TortezzaVecchia,thedilapidatedbuildingsofwhicharenow usedasbarracksandamilitaryhospital.Thesecondgatewayleads totheCommandant'sResidence,whereweobtainpermissiontoin specttheworksapplication on attheoffice(Opoupapy^iov,Frou- rarchfon)onthefirstfloor,totheright,intherearbuilding.We thencrossadrawbridgefartherup,traversealongvaultedpassage, andproceedstraightontotheramparts,whichareovergrownwith vegetation.TheplatformontheW.side(230ft.),reachedbya fewsteps,commandsasuperb**Viewofthetownandisland,best bymorning-light.Thecustodian,whospeaksItalian,lendsatele scopetothevisitor(251.). OntheW.weoverlookthetownandtheEsplanade; thenearestand highestchurch-toweristhatofSt.Spiridion,thenextthatthe ofmetro politanchurchofPanagiaSpilidtissa(2it7)Xla>Ttaaa;'OurLadyoftheCave'). Beyondare thedarkwallsofthe FortezzaNuova, withthemorecheerful buildingsabovethem.Fartheroffisarangeofgentle,olive-cladhills,on whichliethevillagesofPotamd,withitscemetery,andAlipoii.Tothe leftofPotamdisthedouble-peakedS.Giorgio,andtotheleftofthisa roundedsummitwiththevillageofPelleka(p. 12).Stillfarthertothe left,intheS.W.foreground,isthelargeLakeKalikiopoulo(p.9).Be tweenthelakeandthetownarethepalatialHospitalandthewhitebuild ingsofthePrison;nearthetownrisethecypressesoftheEnglishCeme tery.Totheleft,betweenLakeKalikiopouloandthesea,isthesuburb ofKastrades,towhichtheSlradaMarinaleadsalongthecoastfromthe Esplanade.OntheN.slopeofthewoodedhillbehinditistheroyal villaofMonrepos(p.9).Halfwayupthearch-shapedhillofS.Deca liesthevillagethe ofsamename(p.11).TotheS.theeyefollowsthe coastasfarastheKavoLevkimo,theLeukimnioftheancients.Opposite, offtheAlbaniancoast,are theSybotaIslands(p.14).TotheK.towersthe loftyrangeof8.Balvatore(p. 14),ontheslopesofwhichaTethevillages ofSignesandSparlilla;the adjoininghillsontheleftarecrossedbythe passofS.Pantaleone.InthesealietheislanjiatVidoandtheLazzaretto Island.OnthecoastoppositethelatterisQovino^ip.12). TheEsplanadeends,totheS.oftheMaitlancimemorial(p. 7), inan openspaceembellishedwithamarbleStatueofKapodistrias (pp.11,260)byDrosisandXenakis,erected1887. in—Opposite istheGymnasium,withahighflightofsteps.Itcontains,inaroom openedbythecustodian(l'/adr.),severalfunerealinscriptions, acapitalwithtracesofpainting,andotherancientsculptures.On theupperflooristhelibrary(40,000vols.)oftheIonianUni versity,whichwasestablishedbytheBritishbutclosedaftertheir departure. ■ AbroadstreetdescendshencetotheSthadAMarina,the favouriteeveningpromenadeoftheCorflotes.In6-8minuteswe reachtheentranceofthesuburbofKastrades,wherethedis mantledFortS.Salvadorrisesontheright.NeartheE.baseof thedilapidatedramparts,about200pacesfromtheStradaMarina, istheMonumentofMenekrates,alowcircularstructuredating fromthe6thor7thcenturybeforeChrist.Themonument,which Monrepos. CORFU. 3.Route.9 issurroundedwithtreesandprotectedby anironrailing,wasdis coveredontheremovaloftheVenetianfortificationsin1843.The metricalinscriptionrecordsthat'Menekrates,sonofTlasias,of (EantheinLocris,wasProxenos(i.e.representative)ofhisnative townCorcyra', in andthathelosthislifebydrowning.Abronze dishandafewearthenwarevesselswerediscoveredintheinterior. Theancientlioninthepalace(p.7)wasalsofoundinthisneigh bourhood. TheStradaMarinarunshencetotheleftalongthecoast,and endsneartheremainsofanoldwindmill.Wefollowtheprinci palBtreettowardstheS.,passingachurchandaredhouse,and in5min.ascendbyaroaddivergingtotherightoppositethecir cularapseoftheoldchurchofSt.Corcyra.Thegateontheleftis theentrancetotheroyalvillaof*Monrepos(VillaRealeJ,theex tensivegardensofwhichaffordadmirableviewsofthetownand fortressof Corfu(openon Sun.andThurs.afternoons; strangers usuallyadmittedbythegardeneronotherdays,fee dr.). Olives, cypresses, andorange, lemon, andfigtreesattaingreat perfectionintheshelteredsituationandsubtropicalclimateof thosegardens,andmagnolias,palms,theeucalyptus,bananas, thepapyrus,andaloesalsoflourish. Theabove-mentionedroad,passingentrance the tothevilla,leads tothevillageofAnalipsis,Ital.Ateennene.Nearthevillageapathdi vergestotheleftandleadsthroughagroveof olivestowardsthesea. Afterabout200paces,wereach,alittletotheright,theinterestingand curioussubstructureofanAncientTemple,discoveredin1822.Thisruin liesabout100ft.abovethesea,inanarrowravinecalledKardaki,a namealsoextendedtothesurroundingdistrict.Thetemplewasaperipteral hexastyle,i.e.thecellawassurroundedbyacolonnade,with6columns ateachend.Acapitalfoundherehasbeenpronouncedimportant an exampleoftheearliestDoricstyle.Nearthewallerectedabovetopro tecttheruinsfromlandslipsrisesaspring,whichwasformerlymuch frequentedandissupposedtohavebeenasacredfountainandthereason ofthetemple.Visitorsshoulddescendtotheseatoinspectthewhole structure. The principalstreetfollowstheW.slopeof thehillypenin sula,whichextendstotheS.betweentheLakeofKaliki6pouloand theseaThiswasprobablythesiteoftheancienttown,andthe nameofPalaeopolisstillclingstoit. Theprincipalcommercial harbourwasformedbytheBayofKastrades,whilethelakeof Kalikiopoulo,nowsiltedup,seemstohavebeentheancientHyl- laeanHarbour,usedas astationforvesselsofwar.Thestreet, whichismuchfrequentedonfineevenings,isflankedbyroseand orangegardens(orangesinwinter51.),andfartheronbyolive- groves.Itendsabout2M.fromtheEsplanade,inacircularspace namedtheCanone(English,One-gunBattery),whichcommands >beautiful*"ViewoftheE.coast.Oppositetheentrancetothe oldHyllaeanharbourliestheisleofPontikonisi(mouse-island), withasmallchapelandclergy-house.Traditiondescribesitas thePhsBacianshipthatbroughtUlyssestoIthaka,andwhichwas 1 0 Route3. CORFU. Gastouri. afterwardsturnedintostonebytheangryPoseidon.Totheright istheLakeofKalikiopoulo,theS.W.bankofwhich,whereabrook namedKressidaentersthelake,ispointedoutastheplacewhere UlysseswascastashoreandmettheprincessNausicaa. Among thehillsoftheS.halfoftheisland,agoodsurveyofwhich isobtainedfromtheCanone,thehighestistheS.Deca,nearlydue S., withthevillagethe ofsamenameonitsslope.Thelowerpeakto theleftisKyriaki,onwhichliesthevillageofOastomH(seebelow).On thebeachbelowisBenizze.ThenexthilltotheleftistheMte.8.Croce orStavrbVouni.TotheS.E.isKavoLevkimo. ExcursionsintotheInterioroftheIsland. ThankstotheEnglishadministrationtheIonianIslands,unlikethe restofGreece,areeverywhereprovidedwith goodroads(nowsomewhat neglected),sothatalmostthewholeofCorfumaybeexploredbycarriage. TheislandiscoveredwithfineOliveGroves,containing,it isestimated, about4,000,000trees; andthesecombinewiththesombrecypresstode terminethedistinctivecharacterofthescenery.Theolive-trees,whichare allowedtogrowwithoutpruning,hereattainaheight("30-60ft.),beauty, anddevelopmentelsewhereunparalleledintheMediterranean,ifindeed intheworld-.TheyblossominApril,andthefruitripensbetweenDe cemberandMarch.Thequalityoftheoilis,however,inferiorthat toof Italyinconsequenceoftheprimitiveappliancesforexpressingandclear ingit.Plentifulharvestsoccuronanaverageonceevery6-10years.The VineCultureofCorfuisnotsoimportantasthatoftheneighbouring islands,butitisnot inconsiderable,especiallysincethewine,whichis Strongandofa dark-redcolour,begantobeexportedtoFrance,Italy, andothercountries.TheOranges,Lemons,andFigsareofexcellent quality,andaffordseveralharvestsinthecourseoftheyear.TheOpuntia CactusandtheAgave,orgiantaloe,flourishluxuriantlyandareused hereasinSicilyforhedges.—TheInhabitants(p.6)aremarked,ow ingtothecenturiesofVenetianandBritishdomination,byahigherde greeculture of thanisusualinGreece.Thehighlycompositecharacter ofthepopulationofthetownofCorfuisreflected,onareducedscale,in otherpartsthe ofisland. ThefollowingExcobsionsaregenerallymadebycarriage,butwalk ingmayalsoberecommended.Theusualfaresarestatedbelowineach case,butthosewhospeakthelanguagemayoftenmakebetterbargainsby dealingdirectlywiththecoachmen.Intheinnsnothingcanbe obtained exceptbread(psomi),goats1milkcheese(tiri),wine(hrassi),andwater (nerd).Itisthereforeadvisabletobeprovidedwithaluncheon-basket forthelongerexcursions. ExcursionstotheSouth.—ToGastouriandBenizze,bycar riage(15fr.; thereandback6hrs.).Theroadleavesthetownby thePortaReale,crossesthesuburbof8.Rocco,andrunsnearthe W.sideofLakeKaliki6poulo.Fartheronitascendsinwindings toGastouri[Inn,dear),whereinagorgeisanancientwellunder a largeplane-tree.Thence(guidedesirable)wemayascendthe (20min.)Kyriake(918ft.),whichcommandsanimposingpano rama.Fartheron,beyondthesmallBellaViennaRestaurant,alittle totheleft,liestheEmpressofAustria's*VillaAchilleion,re centlyerectedbytheItalianarchitectRaf.Cavito(adm.onappli cationtotheAustrianconsulatCorfu).Thebuildingunitesseveral stylesandcontainsnumerousworksofart,themostinteresting portionbeingthecolonnadeonthe, E.withfinefrescoes.Farther downisaDyingAchilles,byHerter.Thelargepark,descending Monte SantaDeca. CORFU. 3.Route.11 towards theseainterraces,containsasmallTemple,withaseated marblestatneofHeine,thepoet,bytheDanishsculptorHasselries. —Theadjacentchurchcommandsabeautifulview. We nowdescend(short-cutsforwalkers)tothefishing-village ofBenizze,withtheremainsofaRomanvilla.Thefinestoranges inCorfugrowhere(boattoKastrades5dr.).Thewaterofthesprings abovethevillageisconveyedtoCorfubyanAqueduct,6M.long, constructedbySirFrederickAdam(p. 7). FromtheCanonetoGastouri,l1/^hr,—Afootpathdescendsfrom theCanonetotheferry-house,whichliesattheendofastoneembank ment(ferry'/j-ldr.).Ontheothersideweascendthroughfinegroves ofolives,followingthegeneraldirectionoftheaqueduct,andbefore the EmpressofAustria'spark,turntotherighttoGastouri(p.10). To. 8 Deca,bycarriage(thereand back6hrs.;16fr.).The roaddivergesfromthattoGastouri(seep.10)neartheend.Drivers reachthevillageofHagiDekaor8.Deca(675ft.)in11/4nr.,walkers inabout1hrs.Theascent(guide)thencetothe topofthe*Monte SantaDeca(1860ft.),perhapstheIstoneoftheancients,takes 1hr.Ina smallhollowbetweenthetwosummitslietheincon siderableruinsofconvent. a TheN.E.peakaffordsasplendidview ofthetown,the variedoutlineoftheE.coastoftheisland,the straitsofCorfu,andtheAlbanianMts.TheS.W.peak,which issomewhatlower,overlooksthevalleyoftheMesonghiandthe Tillageanddouble-peakedhillofStMatthias.Wenowdescendby aroughgoat-pathto (1hr.)Apano-Oarounaandproceedthenceto theN.to(V4nr0tnePaS3of8.leddoroorHagiosTheddoros (786ft.),wherethecarriageshouldbeorderedtomeetus.The drivebackto Corfu,viaKamara,takesl'/2hr. Beyondthevillageof8.Decatheabove-mentionedroadcontinuesto leadtowardsthe8.,crossingthepass(seeabove)betweentheMonte8.Deca andtheMonteS. Oroce,GreekStavrdYouni(1476ft.).Thetopofthelatter maybeattainedfromthepass viathevillageStavro, of withthehelp ofaboyasguide,inV2hr.WedescendpastthechurchofthePanagia andskirttherockyhillofthechapeloftheHagiaTriaiatotheO/2hr,) springsinthevalleyofBenizze(seeabove).Thehighestspringrisesnear thesmallchurchofSt.Nicholas(alsoreachedfromtheheadofthepassby adirectpath),andthewell-houseliesinthevalley*/2M-fartheron. Fromthewell-housewemayeitherdescenddirecttoBenizzein1/zhr., orskirtthehillofKyriaki(p.10)to hr.)Oattouri.Thebridle-path reachesthelattervillagebesidewell the(p.10).Theinn,whereour carriageshouldbeorderedtomeetus,is1/2M.fartheron. BeyondtheheadofthepassbetweenMonte8.DecaandMonte8. CrocetheroaddescendstothevicinityoftheLakeofKoriitia,whichis wellstockedwithfish,andendsamongtheolive-grovesandcorn-fields ofthefertileplainofLevkimo.Thenumerousvillagesareallwell-built andprosperous-looking. TothbWbst.—ToPellekaandbackbycarriagein hrs. (12fr.).IssuingbythePortaReale,wetraversethesuburbof 8.Rocco.Totherightistheconvent-churchofPlatiterra,with thetombofKapodistrias(p.8).Weproceedbetweenimpenetrable hedgesofcactus.TotheleftwehaveaviewofLakeKalikiopoulo and8.Deca,totherightofPotamo,withitsloftybelfry.Aftera driveof20mln.wereachthevillageofAlipoii,thehousesofwhich 12 Route3. CORFU. Pelleka. areemboweredamidmedlar-trees,apricot-trees,andcypresses.In 1/inr.morewereachthebridgeacrossthePotamb,thechiefriver intheisland,which,however,isgenerallydryat thispartofits courseinsummer.TheroadtoAfradivergestotheright(seebelow) beforewereachthebridge,but ourroadcrossesitandascendsina straightdirectionthroughgrovesofolives.*Pellekanowsooncomes insightandisreachedafteradriveofIV2hr.fromCorfu,thelast partbeingverysteep.Weengageaboytoguideustothe topof thehill(890ft.),whichcommandsanadmirableview,especially fineatsunset,the ofcentralpartoftheislandfromMonteS.Sal- vatoretoMonteS.Deca,intersectedbyseveralrangesofhillsand thicklysprinkledwithvillages.OntheE.andW.theviewis boundedbythesea. Those- whostartbetimesforthisexcursionmay nowdescendin3/ihr. byasteeppathtotheGreekconventofHyrtiotissa,andrefreshthemselves bybathinginthesea.Theyshouldthen ascendtotheN.byadistinct pathto(l1/*hr.)thesummitof8.G-iorgio(1285ft.),andthendescendab ruptlyontheE.slopeofthishill,passingthehamletofChelia,to(l»/4hr.) Kokkini,attheS.endoftheKopavalley.Thecarriageshouldbein waitinghere. To the Nobth.—ToGovinoviaAfra, returningviaPotamo, a charmingroundof21/2-3hrs.(can.8-10ft.).FromCorfuto Alipoiiandthebridgethe overPotamb,seeabove.Wefollowthe roadtotherightto(8/4hr.)Afra.TotherightisKoukouriza,to theleftweobtainaviewoftheRopavalley.FartheronKontd- kaliispassedontheshoretotheright,andwesoon reachGovino, withtheremainsofaVenetianarsenal,situatedonabeautiful bay,namedthePortodiGovino.OffthecoastliestheLazzaretto Island,withitslargesquarequarantinebuilding.Thebranchto therightwheretheroadforks leadsbackviathelargevillageof PotambtothePortaReale. To Palaeokastrizza,a drive3hrs., ofthereandbackanexcursion forawholeday(carr.26ft.).Thedriversgenerallychoosethe roadthatpassesabovethesuburbofMandoukioandthenleads alongthecoast,crossing(20min.)theswampymouthofthePot amb.(ThetravellershouldstipulateforareturnviaPotam.6or Afra.)FartheronwepassKontSkaliand Govino(seeabove).Be yondthelattertheroadpassesa numberofchapels,farm-houses, andsolitaryinns,butnomorevillages.Beyondaravine(!'/«or. afterstarting),just beforereachingthebridgeofPelleka,itdiverges fromtheroadto S.Pantaleone(seep.13).AsweapproachtheW. coasttheviewoftheredcliffs, honeycombedwithcaves,along whichtheroadisconstructed,becomesmoreandmoreimposing. TotherightliesthevillageofDoukades,wherethelargercarriages sometimesstop;thereisstilladescentoflt/aM.beforeourde stinationisreached.TheconventofTalseokastrizza('oldcastle') liesona rockhighabovethovividbluesea,andcommandsabeauti fulview.Themonksprovidelightrefreshments,butthesummer- visitorswhocomehereforbathingcaterforthemselves.Onahillto Palaeokastrizza.CORFU. 3. Route.13 the N.W.,risingsteeplyfromthesea,IstheCastleof8.Angela (1080ft.),astructureofthe13thcentury. The ascentofMonteErcole,totheJT.,maybeconvenientlycombined withavisittoPalseokastrizza.FromDoukades(p.12),whereweengage a boyasaguide,weascendaneasybridle-pathto(40min.)the chapel ofSt.Anna(1055ft.)and,aboveAlimatadet,to(1hr.)thesmallvillageof Vovtovladet(1210ft.).FromVoutouladesweascend0/2hr.)the conspi cuousconeof*MonteErcole,GreekArakli(1660ft.),theisolatedposition ofwhichcommandsaviewofthefertileBopavalleyontheonesideand theabruptW.coastoftheislandontheother.ThedescentviaLakonet (820ft.)toPalseokastrizzatakes1 hr.,whileapleasantdigressionmaybe madetothecastleof8.Angelo(seeabove)in2hrs.more. To thePassS. ofPantaleone,carr.In , thereandhackIn 6-7hrs.(20fr.).TheroadisthesameasthattoPalseokastrizza asfarasthePellekahridge(l>/2nr-> seeP-12).Itthencrossesthe bridgeandapproachesthefootthe ofhills,ontheslopesofwhich liesthelargevillageofKoraki&na(390ft.).Abouti/ghr.beyond thehridgewereachthevillageofSkriperb(410ft.),whereahalt of10-15min.isusuallymade."Wenowascendeitherhythewind ingroadorbya shorterfootpathto(36-40min.)thepassof S.PantaleoneorHagiosPanteleimon(1040ft.),theonly con venientmeansofcommunicationwiththeN.partoftheisland acrosstherangeofhillswhichrunstotheW.fromMonteS.Sal- vatore.Atthetopofthepassareasolitaryhouseandaspring. Therockyheighttotheleftoftheroad,ascendedin10-15min., commandsanadmirableview.Behindusarethecentralpartofthe island,thetownofCorfu,andtheE.coastwithitspicturesque baysandIslands;front inliestheN.partofCorfu,whichIsdotted withvillages,whileofftheN.W.coastweseetheOthonianIslands, FanoorOthdnous,MerleraorErtkousi,Samothraki,andthesmall Diaplo,oneofwhichissupposedtohetheisleofCalypso.Afan tastically-shapedrock,whichhassomeresemblanceto ashipin fullsail,isanother claimanttothehonourofheingthevesselof Ulysses(comp.p.9).TotheE.isthelongsnow-cladrangeof the Albanianmountains. Ifn a arrangementbemadewiththedriverstocombinethedriveto SkriperoorthePantaleonePasswiththattoPalseokastrizza,energetic pedestriansmayascendtheMonteErcoleonthesameday.Havingobtained aguideatSkripero(GiorgioTsilimbarispeaksalittleItalian),wefollow theslopetotheleftfromthePantaleonePass,tothechapelofSt.Anna, enjoyinga fineviewovertheolive-grovestheinterior in oftheisland. Thencetothetop,seeabove. Anotherinterestingascent,butmoretrying,isthatof the"Pylides (2030ft.; in1hr.,guidenecessary),tothe E.ofthePantaleonePass,which has theadvantageovertheMte.Ercoleofformingpartofthecentralrange oftheisland.Theviewisdividedbetweentwosummits,separatedbya smallhollow,towhichthenameofthemountainCgate-hiir)isprobably due.Thedescentmaybemadeviap/

5.Kephallenia. Kephalleniaor Cephalonia, withanareaof290sq.M.and68,400 inhab.,isthelargestoftheIonianIslands,andformsanomarchyalong withIthaka.Itprobablyowesitsnametothemountainswhichrise abruptlyfromtheseaontheE.coastandelsewhere,attainingaheight of5310ft.intheJEnotand3610ft.intheKoktiniRadii. InHomerthe island,oritsE.part,iscalledSarrii;andintheOdysseySamosand DovlichionappearasbelongingtothekingdomofIthaka,thoughthe subjectsofUlyssesarealsocalledCephalonians.AsinCorcyra,the Corinthianshad mostinfluencehereinthe5-6thcent,beforeChrist,but in 456B.C.TolmidescompelledittoallyitselfwithAthens.Thenand latertheislandwasdividedamongthefourtownsofKranioi,Pali, Pronoi,andSarrii.TheCephaloniansthe^Stolian helpedLeagueinnaval battlesagainstPhilipV.ofMacedon(B.C.220-217)andtheislandthen passedintothehandsofthelatter,becomingpartoftheEasternEmpire in395A.D.KephalleniawasseizedbytheNormansin1185andbythe Venetiansin1449,andthelattermaintainedtheirpossessionofit,with a shortintervalofTurkishrule(1479-1500),downtothesuppressionof therepublicin1797.From1809to1863Kephallenia,liketheotherIonian Islands,wasunderBritishrule,andisespeciallyindebtedtoSirCharles Napier,thegovernorin1822-30. The islandsofKephalleniaandIthaka(p.22)arethemostin terestingoftheIonianIslandsnexttoCorfu.Theheadquartersfor excursionsintheformerareatArgost6li,thecapital,situatedon theE.coastofapeninsulaintheGulfofArgostdliorLivadi, whichrunsfarinto theS.W.sideoftheisland. 1 6 Route5. KEPHALLENIA.Argost6li. Arg0St6H.—Hotels.Hoteld'Obiest('AvotxoXi)'),totheleftofthe theatre,clean,with goodwaiting,cookingalsoifrequired; Hotelde CftpHALONiE,totherightofthetheatre,withtabled'hoteD.andsupper (bargainbeforehand).—Restaurants.KoineGnome(Koitrirvtefti)),on theMarina,new.—GoodcuisinealsoattherestaurantofOecrgiosSami- kds,atthe N.endofthebroadstreetalittlebehindthetheatre.—Cafes intheSteamerPostN.& partTelegraphOffices.oftheAustrianMarinaOffice,LloydandnearinandthetheParihellenios,principalprincipalsquare.square.ontheMarina;Hellenic

Co.,BritishCarriagesinthestreetVice-Consul,goodleadingandnotJ.fromSaunders,dear;thebargainingMarinaEsq.tothenecessary.principalsquare.

ArgosttSli('ApfOOToXioN),apleasanttownof9100inhab.,isthe seatof aGreekarchbishopandofagymnasium,andcarriesona considerabletradeintheexportationofcurrants,wine,andoil. Nearlyonethirdofthenativesofthetownliveabroad.Thechief centreoftrafficistheMarina,inwhich,totheleftofthelanding- place,issituatedtheimposingbuildingoftheIonicBank.Ina squareattheN.endoftheMarinaareaMonumenttoSirThomas Maitland(p.7),abarrack,andtheprison.OntheS.theMarina endsatthebusymarket-place(dfyopd)andthechurchofSisidtissa, closetoalongbridgebuiltatthebeginningofthiscentury,between theKoutavdslagoon(totheS.)andtheN.partof thebay.Ina side-streetneartheIonianBankstandstheTheatre,builtabout fortyyearsago,whereItalianoperaisperformedinwinter.A streetparallelwiththeMarinaleadsthencetotheprincipalsquare, containingtheLawCourtsandaband-stand. FromtheMaitlandMonumentwemayproceedalongthecoast, pasttheBritishConsulateandthelargewine-cellarsofMr.Toole (totheleft),tothe(3/4M.)celebrated*SeaMills.Thefirstofthe latteristheMillofDr.Migliaressi,establishedin1859,and'/4M. fartheron,attheN.endofthepeninsula,istheOldMill,erected byMr.Stevensin1835,whereweobtainabetterviewofthephe nomenonwhencethemillsderivetheirname.Themillsaredriven byacurrentofsea-water,whichflowsintothelandforabout 50yds.throughanartificialchannel, finallydisappearingamid cleftsandAssuresinthelimestonerock.Authoritiesarenot yet unanimousastotheexplanationofthisuniquephenomenon.— ProceedingtotheW.alongthecoastforabout'/aM.farther,we reachCapeHagiosTheodoros,withitslighthouse,thenturntothe S.andfollowtheW.coastofthepeninsulato(40min.)the road, whichleadstotheleftoveralowrangeofhills(310ft.)backto Argost61i.Thisexcursionformstheso-called'MikroGiro'. ExcursiontotheCastleopSt.Gbokge,54/2M.(carr.theTe andback6-8dr.).—TheroadatfirstskirtsthelagoonofKou- av6s(see above),andthentraversesthefertilePlainofKranioi, ffordingviewof a theruinsofKranioitotheleft(p.17),.Farther nweascendtothelefttothedesertedvillageofKastro,whichin hetimeoftheVenetianswasaflourishingtownwith15,000in Kranioi. KEPHALLENIA.5.Route.17 hat., andwhichwasnotoutstrippedbyArgostolitillthe18th cen tury.Nearthechiefsquare,inwhichisamagazi,standsabastion builtbytheBritish,beyondwhichwecrossadilapidateddraw-bridge, leadingintotheinteriorofthecastleof*8t.George(1050ft).An ideaoftheformerimportanceofthestrongholdmaybeobtained fromitswell-preservedramparts,andthe extensiveruinsofits housesandthreechurches.Thecastlewasfoundedinthe13th cent.,andafteritsimprovementbytheVenetians,waslookedupon asthekeytotheisland.ThetownofKephallenia,mentionedby Ptolemy(2ndcent.)andbyvariousByzantinewriters,issupposed tohavelainintheneighbourhood.Theextensiveviewembraces theloftyhillsonthepeninsulaof Palikl(p.18)totheW.,theis landofZantetotheS.,andtheoutlinesofthePeloponnesusto theE.; intheislanditself risesMt.iEnos(p.19),andthehilly landofLivath6liesatthefeetofthespectator. Livath.6is thenamegiventothefertileundulatingdistrict, whichextendsfromthefootofthecastleofSt.GeorgetotheS. endoftheisland,comprisingtwenty-sixvillageswith8500in habitants.Adriveof2-3hrs.amongitsluxuriantvineyardsand olive-grovesanditsthrivingvillagesisveryenjoyable.Forthis purposemostvisitorschoosetheso-called'Meg£loGiro',a round ofI21/2M.,accomplishedinabout2l/2 hrs.(5-7dr.).After proceedingasabovetothefootofSt.George'sHill,wetumto therighttowardsMetaxdta,wherethehouseinhabitedbyLord Byronin1823isstillshown,thoughnowinasomewhatdilapidated condition.Wethendescendrapidlytothecoast,andfollowitback toArgostoli,passingKalligala,Domata,Svoronata,andMiniaes. —Analmostlinerroute,onaccountoftheopenviewofthesea obtainedfromtheveryoutset,isthe'GirodiaLaky'thra',which leadspastthevillageofLakythratoMetaxata,andproceedsthence asabove(carr.in2'/2-3hrs.,6-8dr.). The extensiveruinsofKranioi(Kpdivr)),which,althoughseldom mentionedinhistory,wasatonetimeatownofconsiderableim portanceandwasstillinexistenceinthetimeoftheRomanEm pire,arespreadovera groupofrockyhills(260-655ft.)atthe S.endoftheKoutav6sLagoon,betweentheplainofKranioiand thevalleyofRazata.Thebestwaytovisitthemostinterestingre mains,whichlieontheE.side,istowalk(1hr.)ordrive(carr. 4-5dr.)toRaz&ta(p.20)andtakeaboyfromthereasguide(2dr.). Beforewereachthefirsthousesofthevillageafield-pathdiverges totheright,leadinginabout*/2nr-totheLakkoaOrouspa,apond sitnatedamongtherocks.[Adigressionof1hr.(notrecommended) maybemadefromthispointtotwoancientrock-tombs(o7m)Xidttou tlpobtovToi).]Atthe so-calledcisternwebegintoascendthevalley betweenthetwohighestE.hillsofKranioi,wherealargegateway ofpolygonalblocksandhewnstonesarreststheattention.Tothe rightandleftarewallsofsimilarmasonry,strengthenedbysquare Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 2 18 Route5. KEPHALLENIA.Lixouri. towerst a intervalsof40-50yds.Wethenascendthroughthe valleytothe topoftheS.W.hill,onwhichtheKastroorfortressis built.ThissummitisconnectedwiththeS.E.hillbyapolygonal wall,andanotherwallstretchestotheS.W.intotheplainofKra- nioi.Herealsoaretheremainsofa staircasecutoutoftherock. ThewalliscontinuedtowardstheN.W.asfarastheKoutavos, whereweseeremainsoftheoldharbour.HencewereturntoAr- gostolibythecoast-roadin1/2hr.Thewholeexcursiontakes3-4hrs. Lixouri andPale.—Asmallsteamboatpliesfiveorsixtimes daily(fare351.)throughtheGulfofArgostolitoLixouri(Atj^ou- piov),thecapitalofthepeninsulaandeparchyofPaliorPalikC (perhapstheHomericDoulichiori),situatedontheE.sideofthegulf. LixouriisthesecondlargesttownofKephallenia,containing6800 inhab.,andcarriesonabrisktradecurrants. in Totherightofthe landing-placearetheTownHallandLawCourts,surroundedbya colonnade,andbeyondthemisthemarket-placewithaFountain. FarthertotherightisthenewchurchofChristosPantokrator.The town,whichpossesseslittletointerestvisitors,hassufferedfre quentlyfromearthquakes,mostdisastrous the ofwhichoccurred in 1867.ByproceedingtowardstheN.for'/jhr.(turningtotheright atDuBosset'smonument)wereachthe'Palae6kastro'oftheancient townofPale,whichplayedanimportantpartinthecontestsof theCorinthiansandtheAthenians,andinthewaragainstPhilipV. ofMacedon.As,however,afewunimportantrock-tombs,afllled-up water-tank,andsomewallsoflateconstructionformalltheremains, thisexcursionisnotrecommended.Thespot,however,commands afineviewofthemountainsontheothersidethe ofgulf. The Ascentopthe^Enosisinterestingratherbecausethat mountainisthehighestsummitoftheIonianislandsthanonac countoftheview,whichismoreor lessobstructedateverypoint ofthelongridge. WiththeaidofaCarriage(35-40and dr.)anearlystart,thisex cursionmaybemadeinoneday: wedrivein5hrs.the toCasaIngleie andthenwalktothe(i1/*hr.)Stavrds.Itispreferable,however,tospend the nightintheCasaInglese(enquirebeforehandatthenomarchyin Argostoli),orintheconventofHagiotOerdtimos,andascendtothesum mitearlyonthefollowingday,intimetoseethesunrise.Mulefromthe conventtothetopandback7-8,withdescenttoSamoa10-12dr.—The travellershouldbringprovisionswithhimfromArgost61i. WefollowtheroadtoSamosasfarastheheadofthePassof KouloUmi(seep.20).Heretheroaddivides,thebranchtotheleft leadingtoSamos,andthattotherightdescendingtothewell- cultivatedtable-landofOmald(1280ft.).PassingPhrankdtaonthe left,wereach,afterwalking3,ordriving274hrs.fromArgost61i, theConventofSt.Oer&simos,thepatron-saintoftheisland,who livedduringtheTurkishperiod,foundedtheconvent-chapel,and dugtheadjacentwell.Cleannight-quarters,wine,eggs,andcheese maybehadhere,inreturnforwhichtravellersshouldcontribute tothepoor-box. Aenos. KEPHALLENIA.5.Route.19 From theconventweproceedtowardstheN.toValsamdta, whichliestotheright.AttheP/4hr.)windmillsasteepfootpath ascendstotherightthroughtheravine,whilethecarriage-road windsgraduallyriptothePassofHagiosElcvthtrios(2625ft.).By thewaysideareseveraldeephollowsInwhichsnowistobefound evenatmidsummer.Besidethelittleruinedchurchwhichhasgiven itsnametothepasstheroutetothejEnosdivergestotheright, whiletheroadgoesontoDigaletou(seebelow).Our wayskirts arockyslopeabovea barrenplateau,wherethemountainsof IthakaandAcamaniaarevisibletotheleft,andthenleadsthrough adensepine-wood('AbiesCephalonica',akindofpinepeculiarto theMnos)tothe(10min.)CasaInglese(tootutivrjtxujkpvf]ae<»4; 3690ft.),wherethecarriage-roadends.Amilitaryguardissta tionedherefortheprotectiontheforest. of Toreachthispoint fromtheConventofSt.Gerasimosbycarriagetakes2-2!/2hrs.; goodwalkersmaydoitinless. WenowfollowanarrowpaththroughthewoodtoO/2hr.) Vounaki,andthenastonypathoverthepeakcalled Pitoulesto (40min.)the*Stavb6s,whencewehaveanextensiveview,em bracingthewholeislandofKephallenia(withtheexceptionofthe S.E.corner),Ithaka,Levkas,themountainsofEpirus,theAcro- ceraunianmountains,Parnassos(inthedistance),andtheVoi'dia rangeandMt.ErymanthosinthePeloponnesus.About1hr. fartheronistheMeg&loSoto's,thehighestsummitoftheiEnos (5310ft.),whichwascalledMonteLeoneorMonteNerobytheVe netians,andafterwardsElatoVouniS,untiltheresumptionofits classicname.Onthetopstandsastonepyramid.Thecalcined bonesfoundintheneighbourhoodareevidentlythoseoftheani malsofferedinoldentimesassacrificesthe.(Enesian to Zeus.From thispointtheviewtotheS.W.andS.E.isalsofree. TheascentoftheMnosisgenerallycombinedwiththejourney toSamosandIthaka.Anewcarriage-roaddescendstotheleft fromthehill-roadaboveValsamatatothe(1/2hr.)PassofAgra- pidiaes(seebelow.) OntheS.E.sparsofthe^£nos,about5'/2hrs.totheS.ofArgost61i byroad,liesthevillageAsproodraka, of andclosebyaretheruinsof anoldcastle(ttjcSupifictoxaorpo).Thisisthestarting-pointfor,avisit totheremainsof theancientPronnoi,whichissituatedonthe smallBay ofPoros,about2M.totheK.Agatewayandsomewallsofpolygonal masonrybelongingtoitsAcropolis,lyinghighabovethegorgeofthe brookArakli,arestillpreserved.—Abridle-pathascendsthroughthe luxuriantandwell-wateredvalleyoftheArakli,betweentheJSnosand theAtrotrange,tothe(3-4hrs.)plateauof Pyrgi,whencewemaygoon totheHagiosElevtheriosPass(seeabove),ortotheN.toSamos(p.20). ThechiefplaceinthedistrictisDegaletov,intheneighbourhoodofwhich aretheremainsofsomeancientforts,erectedbyPronnoiSamos andfor theprotectionoftheirboundaries. From Aboost6litoSamos,about12'/2M.(carr.,in4-4'/2hrs., 15-20dr.).—TheroadleadstotheS.fromArgost61i,crossesthe longbridge(p.16)andruns highuponthesideofasteepand 2» 20 Route5. KEPHALLENIA.Same. rocky ravineto(lVaM.)Raz&ta.Theroadthenascendsinwind ingsto(3M.)aKhan,whencewehaveafineretrospectof themoun tainsonthepeninsulaofPaliki.Ini/2M.morewereachthehead ofthepassofKouloumi(1640ft),whereweobtainaviewofthe richlycolouredplainofOmala,withtheconventof11agiosGerasimos (p.18}inthebackground.Theroadtothelatterproceedstothe right;ourroadturnstotheleft,passes(IV4M.)thesmallchurch ofHagiosElias,andleadstothe(l^M.)AgrapidiaesPass(1935ft.), wheretheroadfromValsamatajoinsoursontheright.Wethen descendintoaravine.Totherightarethewoodedheightsofthe Roudi(3750ft.).AboutIV2M.fartheronwecomeinsightofthe valleyofSamos,withtheislandofIthakainthebackground.On thecoastliesthesmallvillageofSamos,withtheruinedconvent ofHagiPhanentesaboveit; totheright,ontheolive-plantedslope, arethevillagesofZervata,Katapodata,Grisata,andZanetata.The roaddescendscircuitouslyto■— .3M SamosorSame(300inhab.),calledbytheislandersStoiald (i.e.eiitovaifiaXoM,'ontheshore). Fairlycomfortablequarters maybefoundintheXenodochionof Stylian6sRasids,intheMarina, almostattheendoftherowoffortyhousesofwhichthe village consists.Samosisthechief placeintheeparchyofSame,andit isthestarting-pointfortheboatstoIthaka(comp.p.22).The municipalbuildingscontainfewunimportant a antiquities. The ancienttownofSamelayontheslopeofthedouble-peaked hill,whichrisesimmediatelytotheS.E.ofthepresentvillage; the Acropolis('Palaeokastro')occupiedthesummittotheN.E.,whilean otherfortress(Kyatis)stoodonthelowerheightwhiehisnowcrowned bytheruinedconventofHagiPhanentes.Thetown,whichseems tohavebeenatthe heightofitswealthandprosperitythetime in ofthesuccessorsofAlexandertheGreat(the'Diadochi'),was con queredandpartlydestroyedin189B.C.bytheRomansunder M.FulviusNobilior,butseemstohaverevivedduringtheSoman Empire.Visitorswhosetimeislimitedshouldcontentthemselves withavisit(IV2hr.)the toruinsonthelowerhill,thoughthe remainsoftheAcropolisarealsowellworthseeing.Theviewis excellent,especiallyinthedirectionofIthaka.Thefollowingcir cuittakes2l/2hrs.; itisadvisabletotakea boyasguide.We leaveroad thetoArgostoliattheentrancetothevillage,passsome unimportantremainsofpolygonalwalls,andascendslowlyalong thevineyardsonthesideofthevalley.Nearthetopisacopious fountain.Inabouti/jhr.wereachthemassivewall,atthispoint stillabout20ft.high,whichsurroundsthePalaedkastro,orN.E. height(885ft.),intheformofterrace. a Farthertotherightisa door,3ft.wide,discoveredin1886,fromwhichapassage,20ft. long,leadstotheterrace; bolt-holesinthestonesgiveevidenceof numerousfastenings.Thehistoryofthewallismanifestinits construction,thecarefulancientGreekpolygonalandhewnstone Assos. KEPHALLEN1A.5. Route.21 masonry beingfoundsidebysidewithlargemassesofmorerecent date,consistingofsmallstonesembeddedinmortar.Inthemiddle oftheterrace,whichisstrewnalloverwithancientroof-tilesand terracottafragments,isa deepwater-tank.Wefollowthewall untilwereachthecorneroppositetheconvent,fromwhichpoint anothersubstantiallybuiltwall,16-20ft.high, leadsdownthe sideofthehillsoastoprotectthedepressionbetweenthetwo heights; atthefootofthehillandthe onoppositeslopefragments onlyofthewallremain.Wecrossthisdepression,leavingthewall totheright,andini/ihr.reachthesummitonwhichissituatedthe conventofHagiPhanentes(740ft.).Thewallsofthisdilapidated building,in erected1633,restonthecarefullybuiltfoundationsof anancientGreekfortress.Thetowerinthecourt,13ft.high,is speciallynoticeableforthesolidityandskillofitswrkmanship. Anotherwall,resemblingthatabove-mentioned,connectsthissecond fortresswiththesea,beginningattheN.cornerofthebuilding andprotectingtheoutersideofthehill.—Wenowdescendtothe village,followingthesamedirectionasthewallandpassingthe rooflesschapelofHagiosNikolaos,whichcontainssomefrescoes (goodspringtotheS.ofthechapel).Atthefootthe ofhillstands anoldRomanbuildinginbrick(t6^axooTtiTi).Extensivebutun importantremains(ut6Xourp<5)ofthelaterRomantownaretobe foundthe onMarina,7*^.beyondthevillage.Thetorrent,which hererushesdownthevalleybetweenthetwohills,haslaidbare manyancientfoundations. About. 2M totheS.W.ofSamoa,totherightoftheroadtoArgos- toli,andnearthevillageofChaliotata,isthestalactitecavernofDron- tarati,avisittowhichisinterestingthoughsomewhatinconvenient.The visitormustbringwithhimtwoguidesandmeansofillumination(3-5dr.). The peninsulaofErisso,whichstretchestotheN.fromthemain bodyoftheislandandissupposedbysometobetheHomericDoulichion (comp.p.18),alsocontainsanumberofancientremains.Attheneckof thepeninsula,oppositeSamoa(awalkofl3/4,a driveofi hr.),lies thesmalltownofHagiaEvphimia,onthebayofthesamename,con sistingofaboutsixtyhousesandcontaininga largeconvent-church andanunpretendinginn.Afewhundredyardsfromthetown,atthe entrancetotheFylarosValley,isanancientfort(a-rocrcaXcma),30ft. longby23ft.broad,andabout3/4M.totheS.W.,ontheoppositeslope, inthedistrictcalledonrj2upia,isasmallsquaretower.Bothofthese, togetherwithseveralotherancientremains, belongedtotheforti ficationswithwhichtheSamiansprotectedtheirdomain.—FromHagia Evphimiaamountain-roadleadsvia,DilinatatoArgost61i.Anotherroad ascendsthroughthe Pylaroavalleyto(4tysM.)Draltata,ontheroadto I.ixouriand(10M.)Argostoli.—About3M.totheN.ofDrakata,tothe leftof theroad,liesAssos,containingtheruinsofafortressestablished bytheVenetiansin1595.Alittlefartheron,aboutiVaM-totheE.of Mesovouni,isthe ancientfortressofPyrgot,thewallsofwhich,mainlyof polygonalmasonry,arestillstandingtoaheightof6-10ft.Attheex tremeN.pointof thepeninsulaisthevillageofPhiskardo,whichtakes itsnamefromtheNormanleader,RobertGuiscard,whodiedherein 1086.Theharbourwascalled'Panormos'inoldentimes.Intheneigh bourhoodareByzantineandancientremains. 22 6. Ithaka. SteamboatstoIthaka(Vathy):PanhelUnios(Acarnanianline,p.xx) onceweeklyfromPatratin91/4hrs.; fromLevkdt(p.14; 12 hrs. stay forpassengersfromCorfu)in41/2hrs. Besides the steamer,SailingBoats('Caiques'*)maybehadforthe sailfromSdmos(p.20)toPUeaUd(fare7-10dr.; thebestwindisusually betweenmidnightandsunrise);thereisalsoaHail-Boatseveraltimes weekly(cheaper,butbargainnecessary).—ForthedrivefromPissaeto" toVathy,acarriage(5dr.)maybeorderedbytelegraphfromSamoa. Ithakar o Ithaca,GreekIthdkd,locallycalledtbThidki,isarockyisland withanareaofSPfesq.M.and12,500inhab.,situatedtotheN.E.ofCe- phalonia,fromwhichit isseparatedbythenarrowStraitorChannelof Ithaka.TheGulfofMoloorAetos,runningdeepintothe E.sideofthe island,dividesitintotwoparts,bothofwhichareruggedandhilly,that totheN.culminatingintheplateauofAnoi(2645ft.),andthattotheS. intherangeofSUphani(2200ft.).Theworld-widefameofthislittle islandisofcourseduetotheHomericepicthe ofOdyssey,inwhich themisfortunesandwiles,thewanderingsandhome-comingofUlysses (Odysseus),KingofIthaka,havebeenhandeddowntoposterityinundy ingverse.Evenifthepersonoftheheroberelegatedtotherealmof myths,itisindisputablethatthedescriptionsofthepoemrestupona moreorlessexactlocalknowledge;andthisisevidentnotonlyinthe accountofthesituationandgeneralcharacteroftheislandbutalsoin numeroussmalldetails*WiththepossibleexceptionofthenamePolis (p.25),wehave,ofcourse,nohelpfromthecontinuityofancienttradi tion; indeedtheislandbecamealmostentirelydepopulatedinthemiddle agesinconsequenceoftheraidsofmedieevalpiratesandtheTurkish wars,anddidnotbegintorecoveruntiltheVenetianepoch.Butsimilar conditionsoflifemakethemodernislandersresembletheancientinmany importantparticulars.TothisdaytheIthakansaredistinguishedbytheir boldseamanship,theirloveofhome,andtheirhospitality.Theirmer cantileinstinctsoftendrawthemtoforeign countries(chieflyTurkeyand Boumania),whencetheyreturnaftermanydays,richinexperienceand materialwealth.Themostimportantproductofthe islandisstillthe strongaromaticwineofwhichHomermakesmention.—Thefirstattempt inthepresentcenturytolocalizetheHomericdescriptionswasmadein 180TbySirWilliamOell,who,however,carriedtoimpossiblelengthsthe attempttoidentifythesmallestallusionsofthepoet.Amonglaterin vestigatorshavebeenH.Schliemann,whoagreesinthemainwithGell, andA.vonWarsberg,whoinhis'OdysseischeLandschaften'(Vienna,1879) andhis'Ithaka1(Vienna,1887)hascorrectedmanyofthe conclusionsof hispredecessors.AnotherGermaninvestigator,R.Bercher,hasdeniedall harmonybetweenthepoemandthereality(1866).BowenandMureagree withGellandSchliemann,Leaketakestheviewfollowedinthetext(p.25). The travellercomingfromKephalleniaentersIthakabythesmall portofPi$saU6,attheW.baseoftheA'etds(655ft.),thehillwhich separatestheN.partoftheislandfromtheS. TheroadfromPis- sae't6toVathyascendsinwindings(short-cutsforpedestrians)to the(V2hr.)ChapelofSt.George,attheheadof thepass(425ft.) betweentheAet6sontheoneside,onwhichtheso-calledcastleof Odysseusnowbecomesvisible(p.24),andtheStephani(p.24)on theother.Wethendescendrapidlytotheshoreofthedark-blue GulfofMolo,andskirtthebayofDexidtothebayofVathy(above, totheright,anewreservoir)andthesmalltownofVathy(about3M. fromtheheadofthepass). Vathy,officiallycalledIth&ke,acharmingly-situatedtownwith 3600lnhab.,1bthecapitaloftheIsland.OnthebusyMarinaare ITHAKA afterPartscli. Reithron/ \| 10S2 TrXuinsjScale tCxiyvnt;tCtwith,ChapeZ.1:160.000 "B.of Aphales tWni-mm,'Spring-.tCaxrt.

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ITHAKA. 6.Route.23 thebuildingsoftheDemarchy.Thesmallside-street,whichleads totherightfromtheDemarchy,containsthesimpleXenodochion (6Uaptaaaii)ofSpiroLinardaki(Moraitis),wherethehesten tertainmentforthetravellerisfound.Fartheron, inanopen squareontheMarina,isaMonumenttoSirThomasMaitland(p. 7), behindwhichisthePostOffice.ThebuildingsoftheEparchyof IthakaisontheroadtoPerapegadi(p.24).Theshoreroadendsat acafe",withagoodview. TheBayofVathy,so-calledonaccountofitsdepth($afybi), withits'twoheadlandsofsheercliff,whichslopetothe seaonthe haven'ssideandbreakthemightywavethatillwindsrollwithout' (Od.xiii.96; ButcherandLang'stranslation),disputeswiththe BayofDeliathehonourofbeingtheHarbourop Phorkys,where thePhseacianslandedOdysseusonhisreturnhome,asdescribed in theOdyssey.Ancientgravesandremainsfoundhereprovethat thedistrictwasinhabitedinantiquity,thoughtherearenotraces oflarge a settlement.Thepresenttownhasstoodonthesamesite sincethe16thcentury. On thesideofthehillofHagiosNihSlaos,8/4hr.totheS.W. ofVathyandaboutequallydistantfrombothbays,isastalactite cavern,reachedbya steeppathleadingthroughvineyardsandover stonyslopes(aboyasguideandcandlesshouldtaken). be Thisis erroneouslysupposedtobetheGrottooptheNymphsmentioned byHomer(Od.xm,107-8),forthepoethasunmistakablylocated thegrottomuchnearerthebay.Theentranceis6ft.high,and 1—li/aft.wide.Theinteriorconsistsofasmallouterchamberand alargeanddampinnerchamber,about50ft.indiameter,fromthe roofofwhichhangnumerousstalactites, increasinginsizeand numbertowardsthebackofthecave.Acarefullyhewnblockof stoneontheleftside,2ft.longand IV2ft.wide,seemstohave servedasanaltarinancienttimes. The descriptionsofHomercannotbereconciledwithreality, ifweagreewithGellandSchliemanninthesuppositionthatthe ancientGreekstrongholdsontheA'MsaretheHomerictownand castle.From(11/4hr.fromVathy)theChapelofSt.George(p.22), onthehighestpointoftheroadtoPissae't6,weascendthesteep andstonyN.slopeofthehill,passingtheremainsofawallrunning downthesideof thehill,and,fartheron,anexteriorgirdle-wall andotherancientremains.Inabout1/2nr-wereachtheplateau onthesummit,whichissurroundedbyaCyclopeanwall,16-20ft. high.Thehighestpartofthehill(665ft.),whichprojectstowards theN.W., isprotectedbyregularly-builtwalls,andappearstohave beenthecentrethe offortifications.Atthispointalsoisacistern. FarthertotheS.W.isanartificiallyenlargedhollowintherocky floor,20ft.deep,whichhasapparentlybeensurroundedbyawall, andwasperhapsalsousedasacistern.IntheS.W.corner,above theharbourofPissaStfi,stoodabuildingintheshapeofa tower,as 24 Route6. ITHAKA. maye b inferredfromthetracesoffoundationsandthescattered polygonalblocks.Thefortress,whichisnowpopularlycalledthe CastlbopOdtssbus(xdarpotoilOBuaa£cu;),wouldseemtohave commandedthechieflanding-placestotheW.andtheE.,aswell asthepassagebetweentheN.andS.partsoftheisland.Although itsnucleusundoubtedlydatesfroma hoaryantiquity,thisstrong holdcannotpossiblybetakenfortheHomerictown,whichmust havelainmuchnearerthesea.TheexcavationsmadebySchlie- mannontheslopeofthehillprovedfruitless. BeyondtheMaitlandMonument(p.23)a streetdivergingto therightfromtheMarinaascendsgraduallytotheS.W.througha fertile,vine-cladvalley.Wemaydriveasfaras(1hr.)abridge, whenceagoodbridle-pathleadsdirecttothe topofthesaddle, wheretheviewtotheE. opens.Anarrowpath,beginningalittle fartheron,graduallydescendstothelefttothe(8/4 hr.)spring ofPerapegadi, picturesquelysituatedabouthalf-waydownthe rockyslope(220ft.).Theexcellentwaterflowsdownthroughan invisiblenarrowchannelintherockstotheBayofPerapegadi, whichopenstowardstheS.E.,andisprotectedbyasmallisland lyinginfrontofit.ThisspringissupposedtobetheArbthusa andtherockywalltheKobaxRockofHomer,wheretheswineof Eumaeosate'abundanceofacornsanddranktheblackwater,things thatmakeingoodcasetherichfleshofswine'(Od.xiii.408,409). Fromthe springweascendasteepgoat-pathontheoppositesideof thehilltothePlateauof Mdrathia(ca.920ft.),withitsancient olive-trees,whichprojectstotheS.E.fromtheStephani,thehighest hillbutoneintheisland(2200ft.).Theplateaucommandsanex tensiveview,embracingParnassosontheW.andtheTaygetosin thedimdistancetotheS.W.ThePasturesopEum^oshavebeen locatedherewithconsiderableprobability,fortheylay'inaplace withawideprospect'(Od.xiv.6),'onamightyrock'(Od.xiv.399), 'farfromthetown'(Od.xxiv. 160),andtheymustbesoughtforat theS.endoftheisland,aswearetoldthatTelemachos,coming fromtheS.,landedontheS.shoreofIthaka(upoiTT)Acarnania, theGulfofCorinth, andthePeloponnesus.The monksarehospitabletostrangers,who,however,areexpectedtooffera gift'forthechurch'.Thedifficultascenttothesummitrequires3/\hr, moreandscarcelyrepaysthetrouble,astheviewissimilartothatfrom theconvent,thoughalittlefreertowardstheN.Fromtheconventa roughbridle-pathdescendstotheW.to(*/4hr.)theroadfromVathfto Stavros,whichitreachesattheheadofthepassmentionedatp.22.— Itisperhapsstillmoreenjoyabletomakethisexcursioninthereverse direction,proceedingatoncefromthe topthe ofpasstotheconvent, Anoi',andStavr6s.Theviewoftheopenlandscapeasweemergefrom thepassisespeciallybeautiful.Wereturnbycarriage,whichshouldbe orderedtomeetusatStavr6s.

7.FromCorfiitoPatras. Steamboatsseveraltimesweekly:Panhellinios('Triesteline*,through- servicein"15hrs.; 'PatrasandIonianIslandsline1viaKepballeniaand Zakynthosin23hrs.; 'Acarnanianline',describingawidecircuit,in33hrs.), comp.p.xx.Fares38dr.85,29dr.401. (foodextra).—FromTrieste orBrindisitoPatrasviaCorfuseepp.4,5.TheAustrianLloydsteamers donotcarrypassengersbetweenGreekports(comp.p.xix). For thebeginningofthevoyage,seeR.4.Thevesselsgoing phalleniadirecttoPatrasandthensteerpassthroughalongtheE.straitsidebetweenIthaka, ofLevkasthelineandhillyKe- outlineofwhich,withthedeepindentationinthemiddle,stands outherewithpeculiardistinctness.In13-16hrs.afterleaving CorfuwereachPatras(p.28). The othersteamersgenerallyproceedvi&Paxos(p.14)toKe- phallenia(R.5).—OnleavingArgostdlithesteamerretracesits trackforsomedistance.OnemergingfromtheOulfofArgosttili weturnfirsttotheS.E.andthentotheS.,towardsZante.We nowobtaina fineretrospectofthehillyregionofLivath6(p.17), thecastleofSt.George(p.16),andtheloftyridgeofthejEnos (p.19).AfterclearingCapeSt.Athanasios,theS.extremityof Kephallenia,weobtainaviewofthemountainstotheN.andS.of theGulfofCorinth.TotherightistheKavoScMnari,theN, extremityofZante. ZANTE. 7.Route.27 The islandofZante01Z&kynthosis150sq.M.inareaandcon tainsapopulationof44,250.About5hrs.afterleavingArgostoli wedropanchoratZante,thechiefplaceintheisland. Zante.—Hotels.AlbekgoNazionale,onthePlatfa,bargainbe forehand.Thebestofthesmallerinnsis6 Oom£(Phtnix),withare staurant.—Club,oppositethe Alb.Nazionale,withFrenchandItalian newspapers;admissionreadilygrantedtostrangers. British Vice-Consul,E. D.Canale,Esq.—AmericanConsularAgent, A. L.Croat,Esq. SteamertoKatakolon(p.316)thriceweekly.SailingBoat,withagood windin6-7hrs.(fare30-40dr.). Zante,o t whichtheGreekshaverestoreditsancientnameof Zdkynthos,a thrivingtownwith16,600inhab.andnumerous handsome,Italian-lookingbuildings,istheseata ofGreekarch bishopandaKomanCatholicbishop.Itoccupiesthegentle slopes risingfromasemicircularbayandiscommandedbyanoldfortress, nowfallingintoruins.Itschieftradeisincurrantsandolive-oil, besideswhichgreatnumbersoforangesandlemonsareexported. Thetownhas,strictlyspeaking,nosights.InthePlatfa,orgreat square,standstheRomanCatholicMetropolitanchurchofS.Marco (popularlyknownastheIraXm^dxxXiqoia),whichcontainsseveral largelate-VenetianpicturesandtwobronzecandelabraoftheVe netianRenaissance,unfortunatelymarredbyacoatingof paint.The GreekchurchofthePanagfaPhaneromeneisconsideredthefinest intheIonianIslands.AvisittotheoldVenetianCastle(360ft.), mayusuallybeaccomplishedduringthetimethesteamerwaitsat Zante.Greatdevastationwaswroughtherebyanearthquakeon Jan.31st1893. The ascentoftheSkopos(tyfahrs.), totheS.ofthetown,isrecom mended.Wequitthecoast-roadat(8/«br.)thechurchofHagiosEvsta- thios,andascendthepath(scarcelytobemistaken),pastaruinedchurch andthe(1hr.)hermitageofBag.Nikolaos,tothe(1/2hr.more)nowsec ularizedmonasteryofPanagiafikopiolissa.Awidepanoramaiscom mandedfromthesummit,Tourla(1590ft.),abovethemonastery.des In cendingwecrosstheshiningwhiterocksoftheAsprdpaniatotheE., andreachthecarriage-roadatabridge,V2hr.totheS.ofHag.Evstathios. —AdrivemaybetakentotheN.W.to(V2hr.)thevillageofQerakarid, fromthechurchofwhichweenjoyafineviewofthemountainsandthe fertilegroundinfrontofthem.—OnthebayofKeri,about8V2M.to theS.W.,arethe curioussprings,mentionedbyHerodotus,inwhichpitch bubblesupalongwiththewater.Thepitchiscollectedandusedforcaulk ingboats.TheislandbelongedtotheVenetiansfrom1484till1797. The voyagefromZantetoPatrastakesabout6hrs.Tothe rightistheflatcoastofElis,withmountainsrisingintheback ground.TotheN.,offtheAcarnaniancoast,lietheOxiaIslands,the sceneofthefamousnavalbattleofLepanto(6thOct.,1571),in whichDonJohnofAustria,attheheadoftheVenetianandSpan ishfleet,completelydefeatedtheTurkishfleetunderAli Pasha, whofellin thecourseof thebattle.Eachfleetconsistedabout of 250vessels,ofwhichontheTurkishsideonlyone-fifthescaped destruction.Thenameofthebattleistakenfromthestationof theTurkishfleetbeforebattle the(seep.33). 28 Route7. PATRAS. FromCorfii AsthesteamerapproachesCapeKalogria,weseetotheN.Me- solonghi(p.30),ontheshoreofa shallowlagoonbetweenthe monthsoftheAsproPotamo(Acheloos)andthePhidari(p.30), separatedfromtheseabyanarrowtongueofland. TotheN.ofMesolonghirisestheZyg6s, theancientArdkyn- thos[3115ft.),whichisthewesternmostofthe^Etolianmountains. TotheE.isthemouthofthePhidari.AsweapproachPatras, twofinemountainsbecomeprominenttotheN.; ontheleftthe Varassova(3000ft.),andtotherighttheKlokovaorTaphiassos (3416ft.).OnthePeloponnesiansideweseetheOlonosMis.(p.318) andtheVoidi&fjp.322),thelatterthrowingoutnumeroussubsidiary ridges,whichdescendliketherays ofstar atothecoast.Patras, surroundedplantations withofthecurrant-vine,isnowsoonreached. Patras*—Hotels.*GbandHoteldbPatbas,witha restaurant(first floor),attheharbour; 'pens.'forastayseveral of days10fr.—Hotel iVAngleterre,inthefirstcross-streettotheleftincomingfromthe —harbour;HotelGrandeGarnideBretagne,laCite(tobothaaru),withtorestaurantstheE.ofandthewell HotelPatrasspoken; of.all theseareneartheCorinthrailway-station. Restaurants.AttheHotels(seeabove);alsoTonParision,next door butonetotheE.fromtheHotelPatras.—Cafes.IntheHotelPatras andintheSquareofSt.George. PostOffice,onthe E.sideoftheSquareofSt.George.—Telegraph Office,inthefirstcross-streettheright toincomingfromtheharbour. Steamers(CunardCo.)plymonthlyPatras fromtoLiverpool(see p.xviii).TheofficesoftheAustro-HungarianLloydtireafewdoorsE.from theHotelPatras;PanhelleniosCo.inthesamestreetfartherW.fromthe harbour.—Boattothesteamer1 dr. RailwayStations.ForCorinthatthe N.E.,forPyrgosattheS.W. endofthetown,bothattheharbour,andconnectedwitheachother. British Consul,Mr.ThomasWood;Vice-Consul,Mr.Fred.Wood.— —UnitedPhysiciansStates(EnglishConsul,Mr.speaking),EdwardDr.Hancock;JHonysiusVice-Consul,Btrouzas;Mr.Dr.Fred.Dion.Wood.Me- lissimo.—Bankers.Barfft£-Co.;IonianBank. English Church(St.Andrew),withtwoservicesonSun. • Patras,popularlycalledIlaTpot,butofficiallydesignatedbythe ancientformfitxTpai(ItalianPatrasso~),with39,000inhab., theseat ofthenomarchofAchaia-ElisandofGreek a archbishopandofan appeal-court,isthelargesttownofthePeloponnesusandthelargest but oneontheGreekmainland.Itscommerce,chieflyconcerned withtheexportofcurrants(30°/oofthetotalexportfromGreece), theprincipalproductofthePeloponnesus,andofwine(l'/2"2mil lionlitresannually),ismoreimportantthanthatofCorfil,Syra, Athens,orthePiraeus.In1821itwasalmostentirelydestroyed byYussufPashaofEuboea,butithasbeenrebuiltinanimproved mannersincetheendoftheWarofLiberation.Itswidestreets, flankedwitharcades,arepartlyatrightanglestothequayand partlyparallelwithit.Inwintergoodwoodcock,snipe,andquail shootingmaybehadin thevicinity(gun-license5dr.). Intheearliestperiodtheplace,whichoccupiedthesiteofthepre sentfortress,borethenameofAroiyi.e.arableland.Thefirstofits kingsaccordingtothelegendwasEumelos,the'richinflocks',who,in conjunctionwithTriptolemosofEleusis,the favouriteofDemeter(p.116), to Corinth. PATRAS. 7.Route.29 founded nearAroe,Antheia(the'blooming1)andMesalis(the'middle land1).TheoriginalinhabitantswereIonians,whowereafterwardsex pelledbytheAchaeaninvadersfromtheEast.The newtownfounded bythelatterreceivedthenameofPatrae,butthoughitassistedAthens inthePeloponnesianWarandtooka shareinfoundingtheAchaean LeagueinB.C.281,itmakesnoprominentappearanceinhistorytill thetimeofAugustus.Thelatter,afterthebattleofActium(p.14), establishedheretheColoniaAugustaAroePatrensis,whichquicklybe camedistinguishedforitsindustrialactivity.Thelabourofitsfactories, inwhichthe'byssos1(cotton?)ofEliswasmadeintocloth,wasmainly suppliedby women.LikeCorinth,Patraswasoneoftheearliestseats ofChristianity,thoughthestorythattheApostleAndrewwascrucified andburiedmay hereberejectedasapocryphal.St.Andrew, however, isthepatron-saintofthetown,anditwasunderhisbannerthatitof feredasuccessfulresistancetotheSlavsinthe 9thcentury.Someidea ofthewealthofPatrasat thisperiodmaybegainedfromthestoryof theWidowDanielis,whowasreceivedatConstantinoplebytheEmp. BasilI.in868withroyalhonours,andbequeathed80estatestothe Emp.LeoVI. PatraswasthepointfromwhichGuHlaumedeChamplitte andQeoffroydeVillehardouinconqueredtheMoreain1205; anditafter wardsbecametheseatofa Latinarchbishop.Duringthe15thcent. PatraswasforashorttimeinthehandsoftheVenetians,fromwhom itpassedtotheByzantineempireandsototheTurks.Thelastmain tainedtheirholduponitdowntothepresentcentury,withtheexcep tiona of shortintervalafterthevictoriesofMorosini(p.232)anddur ingthelucklessinsurrectionof1770.ThestandardoftheWarofLibe rationwasfirstraisedatPatras(21stApril,1821),anditsarchbishop, Qermanos,wasoneofthemostardentofthepatriots. The mainstreetofPatrasisthatofSt.Nicholas,whichleadsto theS.fromtheharbour.Thethirdcross-streetontherightleads tothe'Plati'aAgiosGeorgios',orsquareofSt.George.Ontheleft sideof thissquarearetheTheatreandthePostOffice;ontheop positesidestandtheLawCourtsand(intheS.Wcorner)theDem- archy,whichcontainsafinevotiverelief.InfrontoftheDemarchy lietwoancientsarcophagi,adornedwithsculptures.-—AttheS.W. endofthetownrisesthelargeChurchofSt.Andrew, nearwhich aresomemarbletabletsandbrokencolumnssupposedtohavebe longedtoatempleofDemeter.Afewstepsheredescendtoaspring, whereaninscriptioninindifferentmodernGreekversesrefersto itsancientoracularpowers.Sickpersonsletdownamirrorinto thewater,andaccordingasthereflectionshowedthefacea ofliv ingoradeadpersonjudgedtheprobabilityoftheirrecovery. The secondandthirdcross-streetstotheleftleadfromtheSt. NicholasStreettoanothersquare.Hereontherightstandsthe HighSchool,whichcontainsasmallcollectionofantiquities,includ ingthefragmentof asarcophagusadornedwithNereids. ThefirststreetparallelwiththeSt.NicholasStreetontheE. leadstothe ascenttotheVenetian-TurkishCastle,whichisnow usedforaprisonandbarracks.ThemainentranceisontheW.side. Manyancienthewnandsculpturedstoneshavebeenbuiltintothe walls,especiallyontheN.side,andtheremainsofaRoman theatrehaverecentlybeendiscoveredintheneighbourhood.— Beyondthereservoir,constructedin1874tosupplythetownwith anabundantsupplyofgoodwater,apicturesquepath,command 30 Route7. MESOLONGION.FromCorfu ing aseriesofbeautifulviews,leadsroundtheS.sideofthefor tress.ConsiderableremainsofaSomanAqueduct, whichcrossed thevalleyhereinadoublerowofarches,maystillheseen.— Severalinterestingrelicsofantiquitymayalsoheseeninthe housesofMr.Wood,theBritishConsul(finevotiverelief;per missionohtainedattheBritishConsulate),andotherprivateindi viduals.Theinscriptionsimmuredinthewallsofthechapelsof thetownandneighhourhoodgenerallybearwitnesstotheprospe rityofPatrasintheRomanperiod. Thosewhotakeaninterestinwine-growingmaypayavisittothe Gutland VineyardsoftheGermanAchaiaWineCo.,abont4M.from Patras,wheretheGermanmethodofcultivationandmanufacturewas introducedfirstbyBerrClauss,whohasavillahere.MessrsHamburger andFelt(ofCorfu)alsohavevillas.Largequantitiesofmavrodaphne, malvoisy,Acheean,andotherGreekwinesare storedinthecellarshere. AnotherexcursionmaybemadetotheCastleofMorea(p.33),5M. tothe N.E.,thewaytowhichpassestheruinsofaRomantriumphal arch.—TheconventofOerokomii,274M.totheE.,affordsabeautifulview. Ascentf o theOlonos,2days,fatiguing.FromPatraswedrivein 5-6hrs.tothevillageofVlaHa(2320ft.; 1260inhab.),withitsconvent, attheendofaravine.ThenceweproceedtotheW.totheN.baseof themountain,andfollowtheslopethroughfir-woodsandoveraspur, whichoffersa fineviewofthedeepgorgeof theimpetuousKamnitza (p.322),onthe E.sideofwhichisawaterfall.In2V2hrs.wereacha shepherd'shut(4635ft.),wherethenightmaybespent.Thenceafatiguing pathascendstotheApanokampos(5350ft.),whereatmidsummeranother shepherd'sencampmentisfoundatthefootofthepeak.Traversinga shallowmountainvalleytowardstheS.W.,wecrossasaddle,andreach thesummitof the'Olonos(7295ft.), theancientFrymanthos.Theview henceembracestheislandBofIthaka,Kephallenia,andZante,nearlythe entireW.coastofthePeloponnesus,themountainsofArcadia,thePan- achaikon(p.298),Chelmos(p.322),Kyllene(p.239),andthelongmoun tain-chainofcentralGreece. RailwayfromPatrastoCorinthandAthens,seeRR.28,12. FromPatrastoOlympia,seeRR.45,46. Excursionto8.Acarnaniaand.ffitolia. Fares: fromPatrastoKryoneri,2dr.95,2dr.401.;return-fares, 4dr.60,3dr.801.; toItetoUmgM,5dr.15,4dr.201.; returndr. 7 65,6dr. 351.; allincludingchargefordisembarkingatKryoneri. Asteamboatpliestwicedailyinlyjhr.totheportofKryoneri, ontheoppositecoast,nearthemouthoftheGulfof Corinth. From Kryoneria railwayrunsviaMesolonghito(38'/2M.) Agrinion(23/4hrs.; fares7dr.80,6dr.551.).Thelineskirtsthe finely-shapedVardssova(3000ft.),theancientChalkis,atthefoot ofwhichlaythetownofthatname,andcrossesthePhidari,the Euenosoftheancients.—5M.Bochori.Intheneighbourhoodlie theextensiveruinsKalydon of , oneoftheoldestandmostimpor tanttownsinjEtolia,thoughitplaysamoreprominentpartin legend,suchastheKalydonianBoar-huntofMeleager,thanin actualhistory. IO'/jM.HesolAngion,Missolunghi(Missolonghi),orMesolonghi (twoindifferentInns),apoortownwith9500inhab., residenceof thenomarchofAcainania-iEtoliaandofanarchbishop,isseparated to Corinth. .ETOLIKX}. 7.Route.31 from theseabyalagoon44/2M.broad(p.28).IntheGreekWarof Liberation,thistown,originallyonlyafishing-hamlet,becamethe chiefstrongholdoftheGreeksinW.Hellas,andofferedlong aand heroicresistancetotheTurks.In1822thedefencewasconducted byMavrokordatos,in1823the byboldandnobleMarkosBozzaris, whofellinanight-sortieonAug.20th.Afterthelattersiegeits fortificationswererestoredandstrengthened, withthezealousco operationofLordByron,whotransferredhisresidencefromKephal- leniatoMesolonghiinJanuary,1824,butsuccumbedinthefollow ingApriltoafeverheightenedifnotproducedbyhisexertions. AthirdsiegewasbegunbyKioutagiandIbrahimPashaonApril 27th1825andcarriedonforawholeyear.Atlength,underthe compulsionoffamine,thegarrisondeterminedtomakeaneffortto cuttheirwaythroughtheenemy.Thedesperateattemptwasmade atmidnightonApril22nd,1826,when3000soldiersand6000un armedpersons,includingwomenandchildren,threwthemselveson theTurkishlines.Only 1300menand200women, withafew children, succeededinthiseffort; therestweredrivenbacktothe townbyvolleysofgrape-shotandmercilesslycutdownbythepursu ingTurks.TheGreekssetAretomanyofthepowdermagazines, andblewupfriendsandfoesalike.WiththecaptureofMesolonghi thewholeofWestHellaswasagaininthehandsofthePorte.In 1828theTurkishgarrisonsurrenderedwithoutresistance.—Out sidetheE.gate,nearthestationandalargemilitaryhospital,is theinsignificantgraveofMarkosBozzaris.Anothertombcon tainstheheartofLordByron, whosebodywasconveyedtoEng land.Amonumenttothepoetwaserectedherein1881, butthe houseinwhichhelivedstandsnolonger. i3lfe. M Alike.About*/ghr.distantisthePalaeo'kastroKyrirene. inwhichantiquariesrecognizeancient thePleuron.Thewalls,the circuit(2M.)ofwhichisalmostunbroken,date,withtheir30towers andgateways, 7 fromaboutB.C. 240.Theremainsalsoincludea smalltheatre(neartheW.wall),acistern,andtheso-calledprisons (OuXaxaTt; totheN.E.ofthetheatre). i.7i/2yi.JitOlUciorAnatolik6n(tolerablerestaurant), a pros perouslittletown(5000inhab.)whichwasunsuccessfullybesieged bytheTurksin1823andcapturedbythemin1826,liesonasmall islandinthelagoonofthesamename, connectedbybridgeswith themainlandbothontheE.andW. About 4V2M.totheS.W.liesthevillageJVeochbri, of nearwhich wemaycrosstheAcheloos(ferry501.)tothewell-to-dovillageofKa- tochi.Some2'/2M.totheW.ofthispoint,ontheS.marginoftheex tensiveSwampofLezini,risesasmallhill,nowcalledTrikardd&astro,on whichlietheruinsoftheancient

8. Athens. 'Omnium artiuminventricesAthenae\ RailwayStations.PeloponnesianStation(PI.B,1),intheN.W.ofthe city,forthetrainstoCorinth,Nauplia(Tripolitza),andPatraa.—The •stationsofthePiraeusRailway(PI.D, 8iC,5;B,5)arementionedat p.108.—LaurionandKephitiaStation(PI.D,2),totheN.ofthePlace delaConcorde. HotelB(comp.p.xii;FrenchandalittleItalianarespokenatall thesehotels,andEnglishatthosefirstonthelist).*Hotelde laGrande Bretagne(SsvoSo^etovxr.cMeycr^cBpstavCac; PI.D,F,5), inthePlacede laConstitution,oppositethe palace;*GbandHoteld'Angleterre(£.T7jc 'AyyXfac;PI.a,F,5),inthesamesquare,atthecorneroftheRue d'liermes; "bothofthesearepatronized,,bymembersof theembassies; Pensionatthese12-15fr.,wineandsometimeslightsextra.*GbandHotel (jiiyaSevoSoxeTov; PLa,F,5), inthePlacedelaConstitution,atthe corneroftheRueduStade,pens.10-12fr.—Hoteld'Athenes(£.tu>v 'AO^vuiv;PI.f,E,4),inthePlacedelaConstitution,atthe cornerof theRueduStadeandtheRuedeKoraia,oppositethefinanceministry, fittedupinthestyleofthebetterItalianhotelsofthesecondclass,with agoodrestaurant,R.3-6,L.V*fr.—HotelMinerva,attheS.endof theRueduStade,withagoodrestaurant;*H6teldesEtrangers(£.t

Cafes. ATHENS. 8.Route.35 in theinteriorofGreecehastoexpect.TheordinaryGreekeating-houses aredirty,andtheirbilloffaredoesnotcommenditselftotheunaccli matisedpalate.—Beer.BrasserieWon,atthe8.endoftheRuede rUniversite",nativebeer,301.perglass,alsoimportedbeer;Goulielmos, nexttheHoteldesEtrangers,withgarden; ToMdnachon,PlacedelaCon stitution;Fix'sBrewery, attheS.baseoftheLykabettos. Cafes (comp.p.xxiv)arenumerous.Themostfrequentedare theCafe" Zachartitos, PlacedelaConstitution,atthecorneroftheHueduStade (afewFrenchandGermannewspapers);Tzocha,Charames,Placedela Concorde,N.side.Intheeveningvisitorsalso resorttothecafesthe at Columns(i.e.attheOlympieion,p.48),attheZappeion(p.47),intheHisses Garden(p.49),andattheAqueduct(p.106;fineview). Confectioner*(Cotx«ponXaateta).Janakis,RuederUniversite",nextdoor tothebrasserieIlion(seeabove);Rigos,Zavoritis,bothintheRued'Her- mes,nearthePlacedelaConstitution;Solon,RuedePatissia;cake80, chocolate80, ice(pagotd,good)40,limonatagazzosa25-30,freshlemon ade301. —Chocolate,loukoumi,andhoneyofMt.Hymettos(uiXi; p.123),withorwithoutthecomb(xep£))maybeobtainedinhermetically sealedtinsfromPavlides,intheRued'Eole,oppositetheChurchofChryso- speli6tissa.Theloukoumicosts4andthehoney6dr.perokaof2'/zlbs. Frenchspokenattheshops. Wine.ChristosSakellaropoulos, agentfortheAchaiaWineCo.at Patras(p.80),RuedeNike";SamianWine(sweet),opposite. pure Water.andgood.TheThewaterfavouriteofthewateraqueductofthementionedlNert>atKtesarianes*1, tesp.105isconsideredaspring onMt.Hymettos,isbroughtintothetownincaskseverymorningfor sale.A*kanati1(201.)ora'stamna'(801.)maybeorderedthroughthe portierofthehotel. Tobacconists(comp.p.xxv).GoodcigarsmaybeobtainedatAn- gelides,Placela deConcorde,8.side;intheRueduStadenearthePlace delaConstitution; andintheshopsinthatPlaceneartheRestaurant d'Europe.Inothershopsthecigarsaregenerallybad,butfairtobacco andcigarettesmaybeobtainedpassim,e.g.atBarkas\intheupperRue d'Hermes. Batha. E6teldesStrangers(p.34), bath3fr.; H6teld^Athknes(p.34). bath2fr.; BUelMinerva(p.34),bath2fr.; AliaStella,RuedePatisia18 (PI.E,2),bathli/sfr.,fee301.—SeaBathsatPhaleron,seep. 108. Booksellers.LibrairieFrancaiseetInternationale(KarlWilberg),Rue d'Hermes,upperpart(English,French,andGermanbooks;information willinglygiventostrangers);C.Beck,samestreet.—Photographs.Atha- nasiou,Rued'Hermes,upperpart;Moraitis,StoaMelaneartheKapni- kareeaChurch; Dimitrioti,RueduStade9;Rhomaides(photographsofob jectsfoundatMycenceandOlympia),upperRued'Hermes.Price usually 1fr.each; atDimitriou's1dr.; cheaperperdozen. Newspapers(4Smyrna,Wed.andFrid.LettersfromEnglandarriveabout5timesa week(varying).Comp.p.xxvi.TelegramtoEnglandviaZanteandOtranto opTrieste91c., viaSyraandChios1fr.35/2c.perword;totheUnited States,seep.xxvii. SteamboatOffices.AustrianLloydjPla.cedolaConstitution;Navigazione generateitaliana(Ftorio-Rubattino)andMenageriesMaritime*,inthePlace tTApollon,atthePiraeus; GreekCompanies,seepp.xviii-xx.—Forthede parturesofsteamers,seethedailynoticesintheAcropolis. Theatres*FrenchandItalianoperainwinterattheThidtredela Ville (PI.i>,3),insummeratPhaleron(p.103).French,and sometimes Italian,operettasaregivenattheThidtrePolythiame(PI.t>,E,3),Ruedu Proasteion,attheN.endoftheRueduStade.Greekdramasandcomedies inthesummer-theatreintheThe'&lreNational(PI.C,2)andinseveral summer-theatres.—AMilitaryBandplaysonTues., Thurs.,andSun. afternoonsinthePlacedelaConstitution. TramwaysCiTtrcoaiST-jpoSpofAOs)'A.FromthePlacedelaConcokde (PI.D,2,3). 1.ThroughtheRueduPire'etothePiraeusStation(151.), returningthroughthelowerRued'HermesandtheRued'Athene*. 2.ThroughtheRueduStadetothePlacedelaConstitution(PI.F,5; fare 101.),goingoninsummerpastthe^Columns'"oftheOlympieiontothe IlissosGarden(251.).3.ThroughtheRuedePatisiaandpasttheNa tionalMuseumtoPatisia(151.)andHosiosLoukas(251.).4.Throughthe RueduPire'eandtheRuedeKolokythutoKolokythou(351.).—B.From theRuedePatisia(PI.D,2)throughtheBoulevarddeVUniversity, past theN.sideoftheRoyalPalace, andalongtheRuedeKiphisiatoAm- pelokipi(351.).—SteamTramway(Tpoxio5pou.oc)fromtheAcademyto thecoast,leadingtothelefttoOldPhaleron(changecars)andtothe righttoNewPhaleron(551.,return-ticket801.,tobepurchasedatthe starting-point;comp.PI.F,5-7,E,7,D,8,andtheMap,p.107). Carriages(ajtafca).ToorfromthePeloponnesianStation,2dr.; for drivesinthetownorenvirons,20-30dr.perday,2l/iz-3dr.perhr.; short drivewithinthetown1 dr.Abargainshouldbemadebeforehand. Carriagesforlongerexcursions,seeR.9. BothCarriagesandSaddle Horses(10dr.perday)maybeconvenientlyprocuredthroughthehotel keepers. Guides(10dr.per day)areunnecessaryforAthensanditsimmediate neighbourhood. Bankers.BanqueCephissus),theonlyAtticriverthatisnotdryinsummer, andbytheIlissos,abrookfilledonlyinwetweather.OntheN.and N.W.theplainisboundedbyPartiesanditsspurjEgaleos;onthe E.andS.E.byBrilessosorPentelikon,mAHymettos;ontheS.and W.bytheSaronicOulf.Inthecentreoftheplainrisesarange ofhills,nowcalledTourkoVouni,runningfromE.toW.andsep aratingthevalleysof theKephisosandIlissos;thehighestof theseisthelykabettos(Mt.St.George).Thelatterisseparated bya broaddepressionfromtheprecipitousrockoftheAcropolis, withtheAreopagus,andfromarangeofhillsfarthertotheW., whichincludesthePhilopapposorMuseion,thePnyx,andtheHill oftheNymphs,anddescendstotheseaingentlewoodedslopes. The firsttolerablycompleteanddetailedaccountofancient AthensiscontainedintheItineraryofPausanias,datingfrom thesecondcenturyoftheChristianera.Thekeytothearrange mentoftheolddivisionsofthetownisaffordedbythe Acropolis andbytheAreopagus, totheW.ofit.TotheN.W.of these hillslaytheKerameikos(Ceramicus),or'DemeofthePotters', occupiedmainlybyartizans,andgivenovertotheworshipofHe- phasstosandthekindreddeityAthena.TotheS.ofthisandtothe W.oftheAreopaguswasthedemeofMelite.Thesituationofthe demesKydathenaeonandKollytoscannotasyetbedefinitelyfixed. Limnae,asitsname('marsh','thelakes')indicates,wasthelowest partofthetown;itseemstohavelainontheIlissostotheS.W. oftheAcropolis.DiomeiaextendedinthedirectionoftheLyka bettos.KoilelayintheneighbourhoodofthepresentMonument ofPhilopappos,Kolonos(i.e.Agoraeos)aroundtheTheselon.In thetimeofHadriananewquartercalledNovaeAthenaesprang up,extendingfromtheOlympieiontothesiteofthemodernpalace. Theprobablecourseoftheancientstreetsandthepositionofthe gatesareindicatedontheplanbydottedlines. 38 Route8. ATHENS. Topography. The modemcity,whichisdividedinto6districts(TfMf)[AaTa), leavesthespacetotheS.and"W.oftheAcropolisunoccupied, butontheN.andE.stretchesfartowardstheplainoftheKephi- sos.In1834,whentheseatofgovernmentwastransferredhither fromNauplia(p.46,250),Athenshaddwindleddownto apoor villageofahout300houses,withnarrow,crookedstreets,and containedamixedpopulationofGreeksandAlbanians.Thepre sentcity,however,plannedprincipallybyHerrSchaubert,a Germanarchitect,isoneofthehandsomestandmostregularly builttownsintheLevant,andinitsprincipalstreetsatleastre semblesthetownsofW.Europe.Twostraightstreets,inter sectingeachothernearlyinthecentreofthetown, constitutethe chiefarteriesoftraffic.Oneofthese,theHermesStreetorRue d'Hermes(656;'EpfioO),beginsatthePlacedelaConstitutionand extendstotheW.totherailway-stationforthePiraeus.Theother mainstreet,theRued'Hole(686sAioXou),stretchesfromtheTower oftheWinds,aboutthemiddleoftheN.slopethe ofAcropolis, acrosstheentirecity,andisprolongedasthe656;IlaTKJtojvasfar asthevillageofPatisia.Numeroustortuouslanesdivergefromthese mainstreets,butthetravellermayleavetheirintricatepurlieus unvisited.TotheN.andN.E.oftheolderpartsofthetownliesthe Neapolii,ormodernquarter,withitswideboulevardsandspacious squares, containingmostofthepublicbuildings.TotheE.of thisquarteristhePlacedelaConstitution(TtXoxelatouauvT

fHistoryo Athens. The originofAthensislostinthemistsofantiquity.Only duringthelastfewdecadeshasanattemptbeenmadebyschol arstopiecetogethera connectedfabricoftheearlyhistoryof AthensandAtticawiththeaidaffordedbythemutuallightthrown uponeachotherbyhoarytraditionsandthepositionofthemostan cienttemplesandothersanctuaries.Inanattemptofthiskind however, it isbutnaturalthatopinionsshoulddifferonmanyim portantpoints. Theresearchesofscholarsseemtowarranttheconclusionthat History. ATHENS. 8.Route.39 Atticawasoriginallyoccupiedbynumerousindependentcommun ities, inallofwhichthekinglyformofgovernmentseemsto have beensoonerorlaterdeveloped.ListsofAtheniankingsof thisperiodarenotwanting, hutareevidentlythecompilationsof laterchronologistsanddonothingtodispeltheobscurity.According totheearlieraccount,transmittedtousbyHerodotus,therewere onlyfourkingsofAthensbeforeTheseus,viz.Kekrops(Cecrops), Erechtheus,Pandion,andMgeus.ThefigureofTheseushimself, usuallyregardedastheactualfounderofthetown,seemslessmyth ical.Thucydidespresentshimas asagaciousandvigorousruler, andattributestohimthefusionoftheself-governingdeniesofAttica intoonecommonpoliticalsociety,orrathertheirsubordinationto aleadingtown. ThisactofTheseusafterwardsreceivedthename ofSynoekismosand wascelebratedinthefestivalofthePanathenaea. ThecitadelofAthens, roundwhichallthesettlementshadbeen made,remainedthecentreofthestate.Thetownapparentlyreceiv edthenameofAthensfromAthena,thepatron-deityofthecitadel, andincreasedinsizeasinpower.AsThucydidesconcludesfrom thesituationoftheoldestsanctuaries,thetownhaduptothistime probablybeenconfinedtotheAcropolisanditsgentleW.slope, butitnowextendedinalldirections,particularlytotheN.,where thePrytaneion,on-theN.slopethe ofAcropolis,becamethe religiousandpoliticalcentreofthestate. After theself-saoriflceofKodrosthekingswerereplacedby Archons,atfirst(B.C.1068-762?)electedforlifeandchosenfrom thefamilyofthelastking,bntafterwardselectedfortenyears only,andafterfouroftheselimitedelectionsnolongerrestricted tomembersofthefamilyofKodros(752-682?).Afterwardsnine archonswerechosenannuallyoutoftheEupatridaeornoblefam ilies.ThefirstofthesewastheArchonEponymos,whogavehis nametotheyear; thesecondwastheArchonBasileus, orhigh- priest;thethirdthePolemarch,towhomtheoversightmilitary of affairswasoriginallyentrusted; andtheotherswerenamedThes- mothetesorlegislators.Thecareofreligionsmatterswasconfidedto theAreopagus,thevenerablesenateofMarsHill. The attemptofKylontosecuresupremepowerforhimselftook placebetween640and624; theseverelegislativecodeofDrakon (Draco)waspromulgatedintheyear624.Ofthehighestimpor tanceforthedevelopmentofAthenswasthelegislationorrevision oftheconstitutioncarriedoutbySolon(594),whoasArchon Eponymoseffectedthefusionofthedifferentclassesofthepopu lationbyfoundingtherighttoashareofpowernotuponbirthbut uponpropertyandthetaxesleviedonthatbasis.This'Tlmocracy' openedthehighestofficestoeachfreecitizen,whilea still moreimportantalterationwaseffectedbytheresolutionthatthe 6000Ueliasts,orjudges,shouldbechosenbylotandentrusted withthecontroloftheofficials.Inadministrationthearchonswere 40 Route8. ATHENS. History. yaidedb acouncil(Boule)of400members(Bouleutae),or100from eachofthefourIonicPhylaortribes.ThepresidentsoftheBou- leutse,whowerechangedfrom timetotime,werenamedPrytdneis and hadtheirofficialdwellinginthePrytaneion(p.39). In B.C.561,however,whileSolonwasstillalive,Peisistratos, anambitiousbutmild-temperedman,supportedbyapartyofmal contents,usurpedforhimselfthepositionoftyrant.Thoughtwice banished(in566 and549),hesucceededeachtimeinregaining hispower,andathisdeathin628bequeathedittohissons,Hip- piasandHipparchos.Duringtherulethe ofPeisistratidaethe cityunderwentabrillianttransformation.IntheAgora,ormar ket-place,whichlayclosetotheTheseion(p.62),waserectedthe AltaroftheTwelveGods.Thiswasconsideredthecentreofthe republic,andthecalculationofthedifferentdemesfromthispoint wasbutoutward an symbolofamoreintimateconnectionofthese withthecity.TheKallirrhoe,theancientspringrisingonthePnyx, wasenlargedbyacopiousaqueductandprovidedwithninepipes orchannels(Enneakrounos).TheOlympieionwasbegun.Partof thepublicfundswasalsodevotedtotherebuildingofthePythion, theenlargementandadornmentoftheGymnasiumintheAcademy, andperhapstothefoundationoftheGymnasiumintheLyceumor Lykeion.Thecompletionofthe oldTemple,ofwhichthefounda tionsarevisibleneartheErechtheion(p.76),mayalsohavetaken placeinthetimeofthePeisistratidae.Allthissplendour,however, did notcompensateforthewantofafreeconstitution; Hipparchos fellin514bytheswordsoftwoAthenianyouthsnamedHarmodios andAristogeiton,andHippiaswasexpelledwiththeaidofthe Spartansfouryearslater. A decisivesteptowardsdemocracywastakenin508Kleis- by thbnes,whoreplacedthe4oldIonicandlocalPhylaeby10newones. HedividedthepopulationofAtticainto30localcommunes(Trit- tyes),ofwhich10 wereapportionedtothecityanditsenvirons, 10totheinlanddistricts(Mesogeios),and10tothecoast-districts (Paralia).EachofthePhylaeincludedonetrittysfromeachof thesethreemaindivisions,andwasthusdistributedovertheentire state.TheformerNaucrateswerereplacedbyDemarchs.The numberofBouleutaewasincreasedfrom400to600,or60from eachPhyle; the Phylaetookturnsinpresidingatthepopularassem blies,whichwerenowheldtentimesayear.Inexternalaffairs KleisthenesshowedhisstrengthbyfreeingAthensfromthelead ing-stringsofSpartaandbyasuccessfulcontestwithThebesand Eubcea(609?).TheAthenianfleetwasdevelopedinthestruggle with^Egina,thenthesuperiorofAthensinnavalimportance.The townandharbourwerefortified,andthefirsttheatre,averyprimit ivestructure,wasbuiltontheslopethe ofAcropolis.Butallthis progresswasthrownintotheshadebytheunexpectedprominenoe intowhichthelittletownwasbroughtbythewarswithPersia. History. ATHENS. 8.Route.41 AthensaloneamongthestatesoftheGreek;mainlandhadre spondedtothecallforaidfromtheGrecian:townsinAsiaMinor andtherebydrawnuponittheresentmentofDarius,KingofPer sia.Ahugefleetwithanarmyofatleast200,000men,under DatisandArtaphernes,wassentacrossthe^EgeanSea,andthetotal destructionofEretriainEubcea,whichhadalsodaredtohelpthe Asiaticcities,seemedbutapreludetothefateofAthens.But contrarytoallexpectationtheAtheniansunderMiltiades,with thehelpof thePlatseansalone,successfullyresistedtheflfteenfold greaterstrengthofthePersiansontheplainofMarathon(12th Aug.,490),andforthetimerolledbacktheinvasionoftheGreat King.Stillmoregloriousandmoreimportantforthedevelopment ofAthenswastheupshotofthecampaignundertakenbyXerxes againstGreeceinB.C.480.AftertheheroicresistanceofLeoni- dasandhisSpartansatThermopylaehadbeenovercomebythe slaughterofthedevotedband,thewholeofthehugearmyand armamentoftheGreatKingboredownuponAtticatotakerevenge forthedefeatofMarathon.TheAthenianstookrefugeintheir ships.Theweakly-fortifledtownwasoccupiedbythePersians, andtheAcropoliswasalsocapturedafteranobstinateresistance. ThesanctuariesthereandthroughoutAtticawereburned.Butthe decisivenavalvictorywonon20thSept.,480,inthestraitbe tweenSalamisandthemainland,and duetotheunflinchingcour ageandpertinacityofThemistokles,brokethepowerofthePer siansandrelievedAthensoftheirpresence.TheAthenians, however,hadbarelytimetorebuildtheirruinedhomes,whenthey hadagaintoretirebeforethearmyofMardonios; butinthebattle ofPlataeaethisremnantofthePersianpowerwasalsooverthrown (479)andGreeceforeverrelievedfromthedangerofaPersianyoke. The statewhichhadplayedthemostprominentpartinthe strugglewasobviouslytheonetoprofitmostbyitssuccessfulter mination, andAthensbecamethenaturalleaderofGreeceinthe warswithPersiaandobtainedahegemonyoverseveralstatesofthe mainlandandalltheislandsoftheArchipelago.Thisfoundex pressioninB.C.474inthefoundationoftheAtticandDelian NavalLeague.Therebuildingoftheruinedtown,whichin spiteofSparta'seffortstothecontraryquicklyroseagainfromits ashes,thuscoincidedintime withthechiefperiodofgrowthinits externalpower.Thefortificationbothofthetownandofthehar bour,whichthegeniusofThemistokleshadremovedtothePiraeus (p.110),wastakeninhandwithspecialvigour.Men,women, andchildrenalllenttheiraid; andtracesofthehastewithwhich theworkwascarriedonmaybeseentothisdayinthecurious mixtureofmaterialsbroughttolightinthemostrecentexcava tions.Toensurethepermanentunionofthetownandharbour, the'LongWalls'wereerected(460-456),stretchingfromthePiraus andfromPhaleron(p.108)toAthensitself.Athensnowprospered 42 Route8. ATHENS. History. greatly throughitsmanufacturesandcommerce.Buttherewas roomfortheexpenditureofthemostabundantwealth; andeven thetreasureoftheDelianLeague,removedtoAthensforsafetyin B.C.454,wasusedtobeautifytheleadingcityoftheconfederation. TheStatuesofHarmodiosandAristogeiton, erectedonthe 'Orchestra'oftheAgorabyKleisthenesandtakenawaybyXerxes, werereplacedin477-476bynewonesfromthehandsofKritiosand Nesiotes.AdjacentrosetheentirelynewbuildingsoftheMarket. TheMetroon,orTempleoftheMotheroftheGods,alsodatesfrom theperiodsucceedingthePersianwars; anditsuseasareceptacle forthestatearchives(includingSolon'slaws)probablybeganin 460,whenthejurisdictionoftheAreopaguswaslimitedtomatters oflifeanddeath.About469thebonesofthenationalheroTheseus werebroughtfromSkyrostoAthensamiduniversalrejoicing,and aHeroonwasfoundedinhishonourandadornedwithpaintings byPolgynotusandMikon.Itis,however,anerrortoidentifythis buildingwiththepresentTheseion(seep.84).Duringthead ministrationofPerikles,thegoldenageofAthens,theAcro poliswasalmostentirelydivestedofitsmilitarycharacter.Itswall nowappearsastheenclosure,notofafortress,butofsanctuary, a adornedwiththosemagnificentbuildings, whichhavewonthe admirationofallsubsequentagesand haveneverbeenexcelled forperfectionofexecutionandartisticfinish.Thefirsttrophy erectedfromthePersianspoilswasthecolossalStatueAthena of Protnachos,byPhidias.ThiswasfollowedbytheimposingPar thenon,thesubstantialcompletionofwhichmaybedatedfromthe erectionofthechryselephantinestatueofAthenain438.The fortifiedentrancemadewayforthestatelyPropylaea,built in 437-432.LastlyarosethetastefulErechtheion,the constructionof whichwasinterruptedbythePeloponnesianWarandwasnotyet completedin409.TheOdeion,abuildingerectedformusicalper formancesontheS.E.slopeoftheAcropolis,alsobelongstothe timeofPerikles.Ahighly-developedindustrymadeupforthe wantoffertilityinAtticsoil,andAthenianwoollengoodsand artisticwaresinterracottaandmetalwereeagerlysoughtafterin themarketsofItaly,Gaul,andAfrica.ThepopulationofAttica atthiseraisestimatedtohaveconsistedof100,000freemenand morethantwiceasmanyslaves. Inthemeantimethe'Demos'hadfirmlyestablisheditself,in spiteofsundrychecks,astherulingpoweratAthens.ThePer siansweredefeatedbyKimonintwobrilliantbattles,oneattheEu- rymedonandoneatSalamisintheislandofCyprus; andAthens hadattainedthehighestpointofitspowerontheGreekmainland, whenin431thelong-smoulderingenmitybetweenAtticaandLa- cedaemoniabrokeoutintoopenwarfare.Aterribleplaguedeci matedAthensinthesecondyearofthewar andcarriedoffPerikles, theonlymanofgeniuspowerfulenoughtocontrolthedemo History. ATHENS. 8.Route.43 cracy, thedeteriorationofwhichmayhedatedfromhisdeath. Aftervariousvicissitudes,themostbanefulofwhichwastheun happySicilianexpeditionundertakenattheadviceofAlkibiades, thewarendedin404ontermsmosthumiliatingtoAthens.The fortificationsofAthensandthePiraeusandalsotheLongWalls unitingthemweredemolished,thefleetwasgivenup,andanoli garchicconstitution,representedbythe'ThirtyTyrants',hadtohe acceptedatthehandsofSparta.Thbasybotjlos,however,restored thedemocracyin403,andin393KonondefeatedtheSpartansat seanearKnidosandrebuilttheLongWalls.Allieswereagain foundamongtheGrecianislands,andthesecondAtticNaval Leaguewascalledintoexistencein 378.UndertheruleofEuboulos thefinancesprospered,thefleetincreased,manynewbuildings wereerected,andthetheatreandotheroldbuildingswereendow edwithnewsplendour.This,however,was buta transientrevival. DemosthenesinvaininvokedhisfatherlandandtherestofHellas toofferanenergeticresistancetotheambitiousplansofPhilipof Macedonia.TheGrecianstatestookthealarmtoolate; andGre cianlibertyfellirretrievablyonthefieldofChaironea(338). Athens neverhenceforthattainedanypoliticalimportance, thoughitsmaterialprosperityatfirstsufferedlittlefromthechang edstateofaffairs.TheyearofthebattleofChseroneawasalso thefirstoftheadministrationoftheoratorLtkourgos,apatriotic, art-loving, andyetfrugalruler, whocompletedthetheatre, built thestadion,filledthearsenalsandharbourwithmaterialofwar andships,andstillleftthepublictreasuryfull.Aftertheineffect ualrisingofthe'LamianWar'in322AthenBreceivedaMace doniangarrison,withthesupportofwhichDemetriosofPhaleron administeredaffairswellandwiselyfrom318to307.In287the garrisonwasmomentarilyexpelledbyapopularrising,butitsoon returnedand wasnotagaingotridof.Asthetownofthegreatest poetsofantiquityandtheseatoftheschoolsofphilosophythathad beenfoundedbyPlato,Aristotle,andZeno,Athensnowsubsisted forcenturiesontheintellectualcapitallaidupinitsshortbut gloriousgoldenage.Numerousvisitorsflockedtoseeitsmagni ficentmonumentsofart,anditsconquerorswerewithheldbyre verenceforitsdepartedgreatnessfrommakingitfeelthefullcon sequencesofdefeat; indeedmanyforeignprincesaddedbothto itsbuildingsanditsendowmentsdowntoa lateperiod.Thelong listofitspatronsbeginswithPtolemyPhiladelphos,KingofEgypt (284-246),whofoundedthegymnasiumandlibrarythatbore hisname.ThreekingsofPergamon,AttalosI.(241-197),Eu- menes,andAttalosII.(169-138),surroundedthetheatreand theagorawithcolonnades.TheSyrianmonarchAntiochosEpi- phanes(175-164)tookhand in thecompletionoftheOlympieion. ThedominionofMacedoniawasfollowedbythatRome, of in spiteofthenominaldeclarationoftheindependenceofGreece 44 Route8. ATHENS. History. ymadeb theconsulFlamininusinB.C.196.Aftertheoverthrow oftheAchseanLeague,ofwhiskAthensa wasmember,andthe destructionofCorinthin146,GreeceandMacedoniawereformed intoaRomanprovince.Athenshadtopayheavilyfortheill-con sideredhelpitaffordedtoMithridates,KingofPontus,whochose Greeceasthebattle-fieldonwhichtocontestwithRomethesov ereigntyofAsia.InB.C.86,afteralongandwearisomesiege, theRomanarmyunderSullacapturedandpillagedthefamishing town,inwhichArchelaos, thegeneralofMithridates,hadtaken refuge.ThefortificationsofthePiraauswereutterlydemolished. JuliusOfflsarandAugustuswerefriendlytoAthens,inspiteofits espousalofthecauseofPompeyandafterwardsofBrutus,andsuc ceedingRomanemperorsfollowedtheirexample.Thechiefbuild ingsofthisperiodaretheToweroftheWinds,erectedbyAn- dronikosKyrrhestes(p.81),theStoaofAthenaArchegetis(p.82), builtwiththedonationsofJuliusCjesarandAugustus; theStatue ofM.VipsanmsAgrippa,belowthePropylaea(p.69),theCircular TempleofRomeandAugustus(p.76),theMonumentofPhilopap- pos(p.91),andanewflightofstepstothePropylsea. AnewperiodofAthenianartbegan underHadrian(117-138 A.D.),theoccupantoftheimperialof throneRome,whohasbeen celebratedbytheGreeksastheOlympian,theirfounderandliber ator.Anentirequarterthe oftown,totheS.E.oftheAcropolis, wasnamedafterhim,andhisnamemaystillbeseenontheArch ofHadrian(p.48).Hererosethelargestofhisbuildings,the TempleoftheOlympianZeus(p.48),whichhecarriedtocomple tion.Inthe oldtownhe foundedaLibrary,aGymnasium,a and Pantheon.Hismostusefulwork,andonethathasnotyetlostits utility,wastheAqueduct(p.106),completedbyhisadoptedson, T.AntoninusPins.InnumerablestatueswereerectedinhonouT ofHadrian.DuringhisreignarichAtheniangentleman,Herodes AtticusofMarathon(101-177),erectedtheOdeion(p.56)thatbears hisname,andprovidedthePanathenseanStadionwithmarbleseats. Up to thisperiodAthenshadgoneonincreasinginexternal splendour.Thousandsofpilgrimsfromeverylandstreamedtothe philosophicschoolsandgymnasiaofthe'motherofartsandelo quence'.Itwas,asitwere,theuniversityoftheancientworld. MarcusAurblius(161-180)summonednewteacherstothetown andendowedthemliberally.ThedescriptionofPausanias,men tionedat p.37, waswrittenatthistime.Butnowbeginsthe periodofstagnationandgradualdecay. ThequietofAthenswasfirstrudelydisturbedintheyear253, whenbarbarianhordesoverranHellas.Thefortificationswerere stored,butthetownfellapreynotwithstandingtotheHeruliand Gothsin267.Atthecloseofthe4thcentury(395-396),Alaric andhisOstrogothsstoodbeforeAthens,exactedalargesumof money,andclaimedtherightentering of itssacredstreets.The History. ATHENS. 8.Route.45 town, however,wasnotinjured,thoughEleusiswasplunderedand devastated.Aboutthistimeitbecamethefashiontoembellish ConstantinoplewithAthenianworksofart.Theintellectuallife ofthetownremainedasactiveasever.Themostfirmlyestab lishedschoolofphilosophywasthatoftheNeo-Platonists,which withtheotheracademicinstitutesformedthelaststrongholdof Paganism,tilltheEmp.Justinian,in529,putaviolentendtoit byclosingtheschoolsandforbiddingallphilosophicinstruction. ThisstepfinallyextinguishedtherenownofAthens,anditsinhab itantssankintoastateoflistlessnessandinactivity.Itisuncer tainwhetherornotthefortificationsconstructedbyJustinianare identicalwiththeso-calledValerianWall(p.84). The fortunesofAthensbetweenthe6thandtheendofthe10th centurieshaveonlyrecentlybeenpartlyclearedup.TheEmp. ConstantineII.spentthewinterherein662-663,andin797the EmpressIrenesentthebrothersofherlatehusband,LeoIV., to livehereexile. in In1019BasilII.celebrateda festivalof victoryinthe Parthenon,whichlongbeforehadbeenconverted intoaChristianchurch.In1040theNormans,underHaraldHaard- raade,tookthePiraeusbystorm.Ecclesiasticalthrows history mostlightuponthatofAthens,whereabishopricwasestablished atanearlyperiod.UnderthepatriarchPhotios(857)theseewas raisedtotherankofanarchbishopric,andasearlyas869its holderappearsasaMetropolitanoftheEasternchurch.Thetown continuedtoenjoyimportantprivileges.Theimperialpraetor wasnotallowedtoenteritsstreets,andthe onaccessionofanew emperortheonlyofferingofAthenswasasimplewreathofgold. Theseprivileges,however,not wereinvariablyrespected,and Athens,liketherestofHellas,groanedunderaheavyburdenof taxation. OntheconquestofConstantinoplebytheLatinCrusadersin 1204,Boniface,MarquisofMontferrat,obtainedthesovereignty ofallHellas,underthetitleofKingofThessalonica.Heinvested Othola deRochewithAtticaandBoeotia,first atasMegaskyr,or Grand-Sire,andafterwardsasduke(1205-1225),andthisline lastedforfivereigns.In1308OautierdeBriennesucceededtothe duchy,whichheenlargedwiththehelpofCataloniansoldiers. Thesemercenaries,however,soonexpelledhimandofferedthe duchytotheirleaderRogerDeslaur(1312).Onthedeathofthe lattertheCataloniansyieldedtheduchytoFrederickofAragon, KingofSicily,whogoverneditbyadministratorsorregents.In 1394,however,RainerioAcciajuoli,LordofVostitzaandCorinth, defeatedtheCataloniansandinstalledhimselfasindependent dukeofAthens.Underhissecondsuccessor,in1456,Athens wascapturedbyOmarandtheTurks,afterofferingamostobstin ateresistance.TheTurkishoccupationofAthensduringthenext 360yearswasonlytwicedisturbedbytheVenetians,whoattack 46 Routes. ATHENS. History. ed thetownin1464andmadethemselvesmastersofitfora shorttimein1687.DuringthesiegecarriedonbyFrancescoMo- rosiniinthelatteryear,abombfellintoapowdermagazinekept intheParthenon,andreducedtoruinsthehithertoalmostintact building.ThePropylaeahadalreadybeenthevictimofanexplo sionsomeyearsbefore.DuringthisperiodAthenshadbecome completelylosttothecivilisationofW.Europeit andhadtobe, asitwere,discoveredafreshbyscholars. The standardoftheWarofIndependencewasraisedinthePe- loponnesosonApril4th,1821.OnJune21st,1822,theGreeks tookpossessionoftheAthenianAcropolis,andOdysseus,themili tarydictatorofEasternGreece,appointedtheklephtOourasasits guardian.OnAug,15th,1826,theTurks underKioutagistormed thetown.TheAoropolismaintaineda gallantresistance,atfirst underGouras,andafterhisdeath(Oct.12th)underKriziotisand theFrenchmanFabvier,whoinDecembereuthiswaythroughthe investingarmywitha troopof650men,andbroughtawelcome supplyofammunitiontothebeleagueredgarrison(comp.p.56). Alltheirexertions,however,wereinvain,andinvainalsowere theattemptstoraisethesiegemadebythearmyofKaraiskakia (comp.p.108)andbytheEnglishmenCochraneandChurch.The AcropoliscapitulatedonJune5th,1827,anditsfallbroughtthe wholeofHellasintothepowerofKioutagi.TheGreatPowersnow intervened,butitwasnottill1833thattheTurkishtrpopseva cuatedthecitadel,whichwasthenenteredbytheBavariantroops ofthenewking,Otho(elected1832).InFeb.,1834,Athens was fixeduponasthecapitalofthemodernkingdomofGreece,andin 1835itbecametheactualseatofgovernment.Thisdistinction AthensowesmainlytoItsancientnameandglory,asitssituation isnotparticularlyfavourableforthemoderncapitalofGreece. Neitherindustrynorcommercehavebeenattractedhitheronany largescale, andAtticaitselfisbynomeansproductive.The rapidgrowthofthetownisdueentirelytothefactthatitisthe residenceofthekingandtheonlyspotinGreecewherethemeans ofanenlightenedculturemaybeobtained. a.FromtheEoyalPalaceroundtheS.SideoftheAcropolis. Thecentreofthestrangers'quarteristheextensivePlacedb laConstitution(irXaTEiatououvxof(Jtaxoc; PI.F,5; seealsop.6), inwhicharesituatedthelargehotelsandpopularcafe'smen tionedatpp.34, 36.OntheE.sideitisboundedbythepalaceof theking,andthemiddleisoccupiedbyavelvetylawn,overhung byoranges,oleanders,andothersoutherntreesandembellished withamarblefountain.OppositetheN.W.angleofthesquare standsamarblecolumnwithanancientinscribedstone,which oncemarkedtheboundaryofa'GardenoftheMuses',butiscer tainlynotnowonitsoriginalsite.—Band,seep.36. Royal Palace. ATHENS. 8.Route.47 The BoyalPalace{PalaisduRoi,toTtaXaTi,xadvdtxtopa; PI.F,G,5,6),alargebuildingof Pentelicmarbleandlime stone,erectedin1834-38fromthedesignsofGartnerofMunich, producesanimposingeffect,somewhatmarredbytheexcessive numberofwindows.ItisadornedinfrontbyanIoniccolonnade. Admissionis grantedonapplication(inFrench)tothedoor-keeperof theprincipalportal,intheW.facade,butitcontainsnothingofspecial interest.OnthestaircaseisapaintingofPrometheusandtheeagleby Bldser,andthedining-hallcontainssomeworksbyRotlmannandother Munichartists.Theball-roomisdecoratedinthePompeianstyle. The*PalaceGabden(PI.F,G,6; adm.onMon.,Wed.and Frid. after3 p.m., entrancetotherightin theKephisiaStreet; smokingprohibited)waslaidoutbyQueenAmalieonapieceof wasteground,andnowoffersanumberofshadywalks,whichare agratefulresortinthehotseason.Theirrigationofthegardenis effectedbyachannelmadebytheancients.Neartheentrance,to theleft,isanoldRomanmosaic,belongingtoancientbaths.TheS. partthe ofgarden,embellishedwithbustsofKapodistrias,president oftheGreekrepublic,thebankerEynardofGenera,anenthusiastic Philhellene,andothers,affordsfineglimpsesbetweenitspalmsof thecolumnsoftheOlympieion,theAcropolis,andthesea.Thebest viewisobtainedfromasmallrookyeminenceintheS.E.corner. Behind thepalacegarden,totheE.,inthefirstside-streetto therightofftheRuedeKephisia,isthe PalaceoftheCrownPrince (PI.G,6),notyetcompleted.Inoneoftheside-streetstotheleft fartheron'aretheAmericanandtheBritishArchaeologicalSchools (p.36),foundedrespectivelyin1882and1886.Theformerisat presentunderthedirectionof ProfessorsRichardsonandWhite,the latterunderthatofProfessorSmith. The wideRuedesPhilhellenesleadstotheS.fromthePlace delaConstitution,passingonthelefttheChurchSt. ofNikomedes (PI.F,6),datingprobablyfromthe9thor10thcent.,andsince 1847theRussianchurch; belowitisa crypt,onceformingpart of aRomanbath.Attheendofthestreet,whereitjoinstheBoule varddes Philhellenes(666s'ApvaXlat),standstheEnglishChurch, atastefulGothicedifice,built1840-43. in TheE.windowwas erectedinmemoryofMr.Viner,whowasmurderedbyGreekbri gandsin1870(p.124).OntherightsideoftheboulevardisanIn stitutionfortheEmploymentofWomen(No.54;IpyaorripiovfiHt6pu>v YUvatxiuv),wherecheapcarpetsandshawlsmaybepurchased. A fineviewofthe seaandMt.Hymettos(totheleft)isnow disclosedtowardstheS.j intheforegroundaretheArchofHa drianandtheOlympieion. Inaparkbetweentheroad(Xeoxpopoi"OX-focc)runningtothe E.fromtheN.sideoftheOlympieionandtheS.sideof the pal ace-garden,risestheZappeion(ZfliriTcetov;PI.F,7),ahandsome buildingopenedin1888attheexpenseoftheMM.Zappas,asan exhibition-buildingforGreekindustriesandmanufactures.Statues 48 Route8. ATHENS. Olympieion. of he tfoundersdecoratethegreatexteriorstaircase,andtotheW. isastatneVarvakis, of thefounderoftheVarvakion(p.62).—On theW.sideofthepark,neartheArchofHadrian,amonnmentto LordByron,byChapuandFalguieres,hasbeenerectedinMarch1896. The*ArchofHadrian(PI.E,7),erectedeitherbyHadrian himselforbyhissuccessor,isanisolatedgateway59ft.highand 44ft.wide,withan archway20ft.inwidth.Itformerlydivided theoldGreekcity(p.6)fromtheHadrianopolisorNovaeAthenae (p.44)ofHadrian,asindicatedbytheinscriptionswhichitstill bears(onthesidenextthetown,crth'eta'ASHjvaiSrjalroii]icpiv itoXij,'thisisAthens,the oldcityofTheseus'; ontheotherside, o?8'M'ASpiavouxolo6yl8if]a£u)S7:6X14,'thisisthecityofHa drianandnotofTheseus').Thearchwasoriginallyadornedwith Corinthiancolumns,ofwhichafewfragmentarybasesnowalone remain.Theentablatureisstillalmostintact,especiallyonthe sidenextthetown.Abovethearchwayisan'attica'orsecond story,withthreewindow-likeopenings,whichwereformerlyfilled withthinslabsofmarble.Theoneinthecentreissurmountedbya pediment.Thegatewaystoodattheendofstreet a leadingtothe N.W., whileitformedtheapproachtothequartercontainingthe hugetempleofZeus. The*01ympieion(Olympieum),orTempleoftheOlympianZeus, describedbyAristotleasa 'workofdespoticgrandeur',andnow representedby16hugeCorinthiancolumnsofPentelicmarble,was notfinallycompletedtillthereignofHadrian,thoughtheoriginal templeonthissitedatesbacktotheeariiestperiodofAthenianhistory. Thelevelplateauonwhichthetemplestandswasartificiallyformed onthesteepslopeofthehill.Asthewater-coursesoftheupper townhereflowedintotheIlissos,legendfixeduponthisasthe spotwherethelastwateroftheDelugedisappeared,andascribed thefoundationthetemple oftothegratefulDeukalion,thefather ofthenewraceofmortals.Theearliesthistoricaledificewas foundedbyPeisistratos(ca.B.C.530),whoseenlightenedadmin istrationformedoneofthemostimportantepochsinthedevel opmentofAthenianart(comp.p.40).TheexpulsionofthePei- sistratidaeandthePersianwarshinderedthecompletionofthe building,whichwasplannedonascaleof greatsplendour,andit wasleftuntouchedtillB.C.174,whenAntiochosIV.Epiphanes, Kingof Syria,tookuptheundertakingwherePeisistratoshadleft it.Thecolossalschemesofhis architectCossutius,fromwhosetime thepresentremainsprobablydate,excitedtheadmirationofhis contemporaries,andLivydescribesthebuildingas'templumunum interrisinchoatumpromagnitudinedei'.Antiochos,however,also diedbeforetheworkwascompleted.Sulla,whooccupiedAthens inB.C.86,carriedoft"toRomesomeofthesmallercolumns.Un derAugustustheworkwasagaintakeninhand,butitwasre servedforHadriantoerectandcompleteamagnificentnewstructure, Olympieion. ATHENS. 8.Route.49 which wasconsecratedin129or130A.D.Thetempleoriginally possessedupwardsof100Corinthiancolumns,arrangedindouble rowsof20eachontheN.andS.sidesandintriplerowsof8each attheends.Thecolumnswere66Y2ft-highana6-B'/2ft-*n dia meter.Thetemplei3thesecondlargestGreektempleknown, measuringontheupperplatform353V2ft.in lengthand134ft. inbreadth,dimensionsexceededbythoseofthetempleofDiana atEphesusalone.Itcontaineda chryselephantinestatueofZeus andastatueofHadrian,andthesacredprecincts,676ft.longand 426ft.broad,enclosedaforestofstatuesofthatemperor,whowas worshippedasthefounderofthePanhellenicFeastconnectedwith thistemple.Thesubsequenthistoryofthetempleissingularly ohscure.In1760aTurkishviceroytookoneofthecolumnsfora mosquehewashuilding,leaving16insitu,13attheS.E.corner and3 intheinnerrowontheS.side;thecentraloneofthelatter wasoverthrownhya violentstormin1852.Thecapitals,consist ingoftwopiecesand10ft.wideatthetop,showtracesof the degenerationoftheCorinthianorder.Partoftheepistyle ^archi trave)wasoccupiedinthemiddleagesbya'stylites',orpillar- hermit.Themassivemasonryof theplatform,constructedofstone fromthequarriesofthePiraeus,deservesattention,particularlyon theW.sideandattheS.E.corner,wherethelateralthrustof theartificialfoundationsrequiredtheheaviestincumbentweight tocounterbalanceit.Thesemicircularholesintheloweredge ofthestoneswerefortheescapeofrain-water.—Asmallportico, withfourcolumns,enteredfromtheE.colonnadeofthetemple, wasdiscoveredin1886attheN.end. Theruinispopularlyknowna9staesKoXdnnaes(eUratsxoXovvaic,'at thecolumns'),andisafavouriteresortonsummer-evenings,whenthe hurningsunhassunkbehindtheAcropolis.TheviewextendsfromMt. Hymettostothesea,fromwhicha coolbreezeisgenerallyblowing. TheislandsofJSginaandHydraandthecoastofArgolisarealsovisible. —CaK,seep.35. TheroadleadingtotheE.attheZappeion(p.47)passesnu merousgardens(IlcipaSeiaos,"AvtpovtuWNu(j.cpu>v,etc.),whichare muchfrequentedonsummer-evenings,whenvocalconcertsare givenhyBohemian,French,orItalianmusicians.Visitorswho takecoldeasilyshouldheontheirguardagainstthedampvapours ofevening.Here,onthebanksoftheIlissos,Oreithyia,daughter ofErechtheus,wasgatheringflowers,when'rudeBoreas',smitten byhercharms,seizedherandbore herawaytohisnorthernhome. PlatoherelaysthesceneofhisPhsedros,wherethetalkerslieon thesoftturf,withthestreamattheirfeet,listeningtothesongof thecicadasandenjoyingthefragranceoftheplane-treesoverhead and thecoolbreezeMowinginfromthesea.T.PomppniusAt- ticus, thefriendofCicero,oncepossessedaresidencehere.— Thebrookseemstohavebeenconsiderablylargerinantiquity (comp.p.61); nowitusuallydriesupinsummer,andevenatthe Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 4 50 Route8. ATHENS. Stadion. bestf times o itisseldommorethanayardwideandafewinches deep.—In5min.wereach,ontheleft,theoldProtestantCem etery(PI.G,7),whichcontainstheremainsofGeorgeFinlay (d.1875),thehistorianofmodernGreece,andnumerousother EnglishmenandGermans.OntherightisthenewStadionBkidge, builtin1873onthesiteoftheancientbridge,whichtheTurks hadremovedin1778toobtainstonesfortheirfortifications. Oncrossingthisbridgewehaveimmediatelyinfrontofusthe *Stadion(PI.G,H,8),thesceneofthePanathenaeangames,laid outbythestatesmanandoratorLykourgos(p.43)aboutB.C.330, andformedbytheartificialexpansionandadaptationofnatural a hollow.Theancientwallsarestillvisibleonbothsides.Atalater period(ca.140A.D.)theseatsandpartitionswererenewedinwhite marbleHerodes by Atticus(p.44), whoalmostexhaustedthe quarriesofPentelikonincarryingoutthismagnificentimprove ment.)TheStadionandtheOdeion(p.55)werethetwogreat monumentsoftheliberalityofthispublic-spiritedcitizen,andon hisdeSthhisbodywassolemnlyinterredintheformer.Littlenow remainsofthemarble,mostofwhichwasburnedforlime during thedarkages,butthoughdestituteofthisadornmenttheStadion stillproducesa veryimposingeffectthroughitsextentandthe heightoftherowsofseats.Thefartherendwasfreedfromthein cumbentearthandrubbishin1869-70,attheexpenseofKing George.Theentirelengthofthecourse,fromtheentrancetothe semicircularspace(scfe^oovr))attheS.E. end,was 670ft.,andits breadthwas 109ft.t Alongthelongeraxisranalowwallor barrier,withagoal QtaXpts,meta)ateachend.Thepositionthe of uppergoal,whichoccupiedthecentrethe of semicircularending, hasbeendiscoveredbutcannotnowberecognized.Thecoursewas separatedfromthespectatorsbyalowmarblewall,behindwhich layacorridor,9'/4ft.inwidth,affordingaccesstothelowertiers ofseats.Asfarascanbenowascertained,thereseemtohavebeen about60rowsofseats,accommodating50,000spectators; asinthe TheatreofDionysos(p.52)thebetterplacesconsistedofmarble chairs.TherowsofseatsoneachofthesidesoftheStadionwere interruptedby11flightsofstepsleadingfromtheabove-men tionedcorridor,andattheroundedendtherewere7similarflights. Behindtheuppermostrowofseats,atleastattheE.end,there seemstohavebeenakindofcoveredcorridor.Fineviewfromthe highestpart.OntheE.sideoftheStadionistheentrancetoa cave-likepassage,theoriginandpurposeofwhichareobscure. + ThelengthofeachStadioninGreecewa9600ft.,butasthelocal footvariedconsiderablyindifferentpartsofthecountry,wehaveto makeallowanceforthisdivergency.TheAtticfootwasequalto0,97Engl,ft.j 800Atticfeetwerethereforeequivalentto582Engl.ft.The88ft.overwere probablytakenupbytheentrance-barriersandthecorridor. The entireStadionisnowbeingrebuiltinwhitemarbleatthecost (l'/2millionfrancs)ofMr.AverofofAlexandria. MonumentofLysikrates.ATHENS. 8.Routt.51 Onthehillthe toE.oftheStadionHerodesAtticuserecteda TempleofTyche,orgoddessofthetown(To^tjrrjtmSXecos),of whichremainsarestilltraceable.OnthehilltotheW.aresome ancientfragmentswhichhavebeenarbitrarilyassumedtorepresent thetombofHerodes.

To theS.oftheOlympieionrunsthebedoftheJHssos(p.49),with theremainsofawharforquay.Thepolishedsurfaceofaridgeofrock thatcrossesthestreamherealsoseemstobetrayaction theofwaterat aformerperiod.TotheS.istheChapelofSt.Photmus,avisittowhich isamplyrepaidbythefineviewoftheAcropolisandtheOlympieion. Below,onthemarginofthellissos,aspringissuesfromtherock,known now,asinantiquity,KalKrrMe as (PI.F,8)orthe'pleasantlyflowing'. Narrowchannelsintherockoriginallysupplieditmoreabundantlywith water;itis,however,neverquitedry.Theidentityofitsnamewith thatofthe,venerabletown-springofAthens(seep.40)hasledtothe erroneousbeliefthat theEnneakrounotofPeisistratoswasat thisspot. Thewaternowformstwopoolsatthefootoftherocksandischieflyused forwashing.Thejarswhich in thewomencarryawaythewaterresemble thosedepictedonAtticvases. The hillabovethechapelofSt.Photinusisatpresentcrownedby awindmill.Inantiquitythisdistrictwasoccupiedbythesuburbof AgraeyandanIonictemple,ofwhichwepossessdrawings(perhapsde dicatedtoDemeter),stoodhereingoodpreservationdowntotheendof the17thcentury. The roadcrossingthellissostotheS.oftheKallirrhdeleadstothe GreekCemetery,nowalsousedbytheProtestants(p.60).Thecemetery ispleasantlylaidoutlikeagarden,andcontainsmuchfinemarbledis tortedintotastelessmonuments.Onahillinfrontit, oftotheleft,rises thefineMonumentofHeinbiohSohliemann(p.02),consistingofamas sivesnbstructureenclosingthetomb-chamber,andacolonnadeabove, withabustofthedeceased.Thesubstructureisembellishedwithreliefs ofscenesfromtheHomericpoemsandfromSchliemann'sexcavations.

The streetleadingtotheW.fromtheArchofHadrianisnamed the6064Auatxpaxous.Thethirdcross-streetontheleftleadstoa (PI.smallE,square7),abeautifulcontaininglittlethebuildingchoragic**HonumentresemblingaofsmallLysikratescircular temple.Themonumentowesitsexistencetothecustomofthe winnersattheDionysiacgamesofexhibitingthetripodswonby themonbasesorpedestalswithmoreorlessartisticembellish ment.AwholestreetofsuchmonumentsextendedfromtheTheatre ofDionysostothetown,andoneofthem,accordingtoPausanias, includedamongitsplasticornamentationthefamousSatyrofPraxi teles,ofwhichsomanyreplicashavecomedowntous.TheMon umentofLysikrates,whichisnotmentionedbyPausanias,isthe oldestextantbuildingoftheCorinthianorder, andowesitscom parativelygoodpreservationtothefactthatitservedasthelibrary ofaFrenchCapuchinconvent,whichstoodheredowntothebe ginningofthe19thcentury.LordByrononcespentanightinthe convent.Thegroundonwhichthemonumentstandsisthe pro pertyoftheFrenchgovernment. 4* 52 Route8. ATHENS.MonumentofLyiikrates. The lowerpartofthemonumentconsistsof acube-shaped baseofPiraeicstone(nowprotectedbyawall),13ft.inheight, withupper an rowofveinedstonefromMt.Hymettos.Uponthis standsacircularstructureofPentelicmarble,21i/2ft.highand9ft. indiameter,withsixengagedcolumnsoftheCorinthianorder,sup portinganarchitraveofthreemembersandafriezeadornedwith sculpture.Theslightlyconvexroofconsistsasingle of blockof marblewithavigorouscarvedflowerrisinginthecentre,which, liketheleavesinthecapitalsofthecolumns,isa muchcloser imitationofthenaturalacanthusthaniselsewherefoundinancient architecture.Atriangularslabofmarbleabovetheflowerborethe bronzetripod,wonbyLysikrates.Theinscriptionabovethetwo half-columnsontheS.E.side,nowscarcelylegiblefrombelow andprobablyatonetimemademoreconspicuousbycoloursorgild ing,recordsthat: 'Lysikrates,sonofLysitheides,ofKikynna,was Choragoswhentheboy-chorusofthephyleAkamantiswontheprize. Theonwastheflute-player, LysiadesofAthenstrainedthechoir. Euaenetoswasarchon'.Thenameofthearchonenablesustofix thedateoferectionasB.C.335-334,atthetimewhentheschool of Praxiteleswasinfullbloom.Thefrieze(p.xcvii),nowsadly incomplete,represents,inverylowrelief,thepunishmentofthe TyrrhenianpiratesbyDionysos,whomtheyhadrobbedandwho turnedthemintodolphins.Thelegendformsthesubjectof the 6thHomerichymn,and wasperhapsthethemechosenforperfor mancebythechoir.Thefirstsceneofthefrieze, nowscarcely decipherable,representsthegodintheformofslender a youth, accompaniedbyhispantherandsixsatyrs.Thepunishmentofthe pirates,depictedinthefiveremainingscenes,isentrustedtothe samesatyrs,whocudgeltheunfortunateseamen,putthemin chains,andotherwisetormentthem.Onthecentraltabletonthe W.sidetwoofthepirates,alreadyhalfconvertedintodolphins, arerepresentedasleapingheadlongintothesea. Wemaynowreturntotheboulevardbythe656;Bupmvosor RuedeByron,orascendthedirty656;Aioviaoutotheright.The OdeionofPerikles(p.42)issupposed"tohavestoodnearthe topof thelatter,attheS.E.corneroftheAcropolis.Onascendingafew stepshere,wefindourselvesabovetheTheatreofDionysos,which isgenerallyapproachedfrombelow.—Thirtyorfortyyearsago a thicklayerofrubbish concealedtheremainsoftheTheatreof Dionysos,nowexcavatedbythepraiseworthyenergyoftheAr chaeologicalSociety(p.,94).Thefirsttracesofthetheatrewere discoveredbytheGermanarchitectStrackin1862. The "TheatreofDionysos(PI.D,7; comp.planoftheAcro polisatp.67),thecradleofthedramaticartofGreece,thespot inwhichthemasterpiecesof^Eschylos,Sophocles,Euripides,and Aristophanesfirstexciteddelightandadmiration,laywithinthe Theatref o Dionysos.ATHENS. 8.Route.53 temple-enclosureofthewine-lovinggod,whosecult,introduced fromBceotia,wasimmemoriallyassociatedwithmimicperformances. Asmallcircularorchestraisnowknowntohavebeenthefirstpart ofthetheatreconstructedofpermanentmaterials,buttheaudito riumwasoriginallyformedbymerelylevellingthesoil,andwas notbuiltinstoneorona largescaletillthetimeoftheorator Lykourgos(p.43),oraboutB.C.340.Thetheatrewasafterwards frequentlyaltered,oncebyHadrian(p.44),whowasanenthusiastic patronthe ofdrama.Itreceivedafinalrestorationfromthearchon Phsedrosintheperiodofthedegenerationofthedrama,aboutthe thirdcent,ofourera,afactrecordedinaninscriptiononthewall ofasmallstaircaseunderthestage.Asthearchitecturaltasteand thestyleoftheperformancesdifferedgreatlyatdifferentperiods, itisdifficulttoforma correctideaoftheappearanceofthebuild ingin thepalmydaysofthedrama. The ancientGreektheatres consistedthreeparts: the ofstage, the orchestra,andtheauditorium.Inthepresentinstancethe twoformerseemtodatefromtheRomanperiod.Thestage,or WTjvf),originallymerelytheplayers'booth,wasusuallyadjoined bytheirapctsxTpnctorside-scenes,whileinfrontofitwasthePro scenium(irpoay.'/jviov),formingthebackgroundfortheplay.At firstatemporaryerection,theprosceniumwasdevelopedunderthe Romansintostone a walldecoratedwithpillars.Betweenthe prosceniumandtheendsoftheauditoriumweretheParodoi,oren trancesforthechorus.InthemiddleoftheOrchestralaytheThy- mele(8u|aeXt|),oraltarofDionysos.Theactorswereatfirstdistin guishedfromthechorus,whichaccompaniedtheplaywithsolemn evolutionsandsympatheticgeneralreflectionsgenerallyofareligious character,merelybythesuperiorheightgainedbywearingtheco thurnus.Theplaywasperformedontheleveloftheground,and itwasnotuntiltheRomanperiodthatahigher'speaking-place' {Logeion,XoyeTov),orstageproper,wasprovidedfortheactors. Thefaceofthewell-preservedstageisadornedwithgoodreliefsof thetimeofHadrian,depictingscenesoftheDionysiacmyth;tothe extremeright,abovethesittingfigureofDionysos,isarepresent ationofthe buildingsontheAcropolisthatwerevisiblefromthe theatre.ThecrouchingfiguresofSilenus,usedassupportsforthe stage,belongtoanearlierperiod.TheE.halfofthestage-front iswanting.Inthemiddleisaflightof stepsunitingthestageand theorchestra,totheleftofwhichliefragmentsoftwocolossal figuresoftheshaggySilenusandafinely-carvedmarblechair.The orchestraispavedwithslabsofmarbleandisseparatedfromthe auditoriumbyalowparapet,theholesintheuppersurfaceofwhich supportedanironrailing.Therain-waterwascarriedoffbyacov eredchannelbelowthebreast-wall. Thetheatreproper(&£arpov,inthenarrowersenseoftheword, orxoiAov; LatinCaved)waspartlyexcavatedinthesolidrockof 54 Route8. ATHENS.TheatreofDionysos. thehill,aswasthecaseinalmostallthetheatresofancient Greece, intheformofasemicirclewitha radiusof160ft.,turnedtowards theS.Theseats,whichcouldcontain30,000spectators,were arrangedconcentric in tiers, eachonewiderthanthelast,and dividedbyflightsofstepsinto13compartmentscalledxspxioec or'wedges'(fromtheirshape),correspondingtothe13Phylsein thetimeofHadrian.Theywerefartherdividedintoanupperand lowersectionbyapassage(SiaCropioi)halfwayup.Theseatswere formedofblocksofPorosstone,andthoseinthelowerrowsarestill insitu.Theseatsarecutinsuchawayastogiveroomtoeach spectatortodisposeofhisfeetwithoutincommodingthepersonin frontofhim.Intheforemostrowtheseatsconsistedof chairs of Pentelicmarcle,ofwhichthatinthecentrewasreservedforthe priestofDionysos,asthestilllegibleinscriptionindicates(Up£tn; Aiovuao'j'EXcuftepeajt).Thearchaisticreliefswithwhichitis embellishedrepresent,onthefront,twosatyrscarryingalarge bunchofgrapes,belowtheseat,themythicalArimaspesstruggling withgriffins,andontheoutsidearefiguresofEros,withgame cocks.Theotherchairsalsobearinscriptionsdenotingtheiruse bypriestsorotherdignitaries.Behindtheseatofthepriestof Dionysosriseealargeplinth,consistingoftwoblocksofmarble, whichprobablyborethethroneoftheEmp.Hadrian.Belowthis, totheleft,istheseatofthepriestoftheOlympianNike, and aboveit,totheleft,isadouble-throneerectedforKingAttalosof Pergamon(p.43)andtheStrategesDiogenes,twomunificentpatrons ofAthens.Dispersedthroughoutthewholetheatrewerestatues oftragicandcomicpoets,themostprominentofwhichwerethe bronzefiguresofjEschylos,Sophocles,andEuripides,erectedby Lykourgos.Manyofthebasesofthesestatuesarestillpreserved, bearingthenamesofthepersonsrepresented.Thetheatrewasopen tothesky.FromthetimeofLykourgosonwardthetheatrewas alsousedforpopularassemblies. TheSacredPrecinctofDionysos(p.63)extendedtotheS.to theneighbourhoodofthepresent boulevard.Itincludednotonly thetheatrebutalsoacolonnadeadjoiningthestage,which,with theStoaEumenia(p.66),offeredshelterincaseofrain.The foundationsoftwosanctuariesofDionysoshavebeenexcavated here; theearlierdatingfromtheperiodofthePersianWars,the other,thelargestruinonthissite,fromthe6thcentury.Between thetheatreandtheboulevardstandsa*CircularAltar,dedicatedto thegodinthe2ndcent,beforeoureraandadornedwithgarlands andSilenusmasks.Nearit isahighmarblestelebearingareso lutionthe ofAmphlctyonicCouncilinfavouroftheGuildofActors (■?)UpdouvoBoetonirepit6^Aiovuaovte^vittov),abody whichen joyedimportantprivilegesinthetimeofDemosthenesandnumbered dramaticauthorsandmusicians,aswellasactors,amongitsmembers. Above thetheatreisa grottomentionedbyPausanias, now Odeionf o Berodes.ATHENS. 8.Route.55 dedicatedtothePanagiaSpeli6tissa,inwhosehonouralampis lightedintheevening.InfrontaresomeremainsoftheChor- agicMonumentofThrasyllos,destroyedbyTurkishprojectilesin 1827.Themonumentwasintheformof asmalltemple,contain ingthetripoddedicatedhyThrasyllosofDekeleiaandhissons, andsurmountedhyafigureofDionysos,whichLoTdElginremov edtoEngland.Thesun-dialtotherightismentionedinadocu mentofthe17thcentury.Thetwocolumnsabovethegrottoalso supportedvotivetripods,theholeBforinsertingwhicharestill visibleatthetop. TheancientremainstotheW.oftheTheatreofDionysos extendalongtheslopeoftheAcropolisintwoterraces.Theupper terrace,abovethelongandconspicuouswallwitharches,wasthe SacredPrecinctofjEsculapius(Asklepios),andcomprizedsanc tuariesofotherdivinitiesalso,suchastheNymphs,Isis,andHer cules.ThetempleofiEsculapius,thecelebratedAsklepieion,lay totheE.andwasconnectedwithaninstitutionforthetreatment ofthesick(comp.p.244).ThealtarswerededicatedtojEscu- lapins himself,toHygieia, andtootherdivinitiesofa similar type.Numerousvotivereliefswerefoundhere(seep.104).The perpendicularsideoftheAcropolisisherefacedwithmasonry,in whichistheentrancetoasmallcircularspring-house,converted In themiddleagesintoaChristianchapel,aswhichitnowagain serves;thewaterissuesfromacleftintherockandiscollected inasemi-circularchannel.AcolonnadeextendedhencetotheW. infrontofthesmoothedfacethe ofcliff.Inthebuildingatits W.endisaroundpit,originallycoveredbyaroofsupportedon columns,whichissupposedtohavebeenusedforsacrificialpur posesorastheabodeofthesacredserpents.FarthertotheW. seemtohavebeenthedwellingsofthepriests. The lowerterraceisintheformofacolonnade,theso-called StoaEumenia,634ft.inlength,onesidewhich of wasformedby thearchedwallinfrontofthemasonrysupportingtheupperterrace. ThecolonnadeledfromtheTheatreofDionysostotheOdeion,and wasdividedintotwobyarowofcolumnsinthemiddle; theroof wasprobablyofwood. The *OdeionofHerodesAttious(PI.C,7)istheloftiestand themostconspicuousamongtheruinsatthebaseoftheAcropolis. TiberiusClaudiusHerodesAtticus(p.44),amemberofanemi nentRomanfamily, inheritedimmensewealthhis fromfather, whichhespentinconferringthemostmagnificentbenefitsonthe townandcitizensofAthens(p.60).HebuilttheOdeioninmem oryofhiswife,AppiaAnniaRegilla(d.ca.160A.D),anoble Romanlady,whosenameitsometimesbears.Weknowlittleof thehistoryofthebuilding.Thecharredtimberandironrefuse mixedwithbricksfoundherein1848-58indicateitwas thatonce thevictimofaseriousconflagration.Atalaterperioditserved 56 Route8. ATHENS. Areopagus. as asortofoutworkforthedefenceoftheAcropolis.TheOdeia, unlikemostofthetheatresofantiquity,wereroofedinandwere originallyintendedformusicalentertainments;thatofHero- des,however,wasevidentlyconstructedmainlya withviewto dramaticperformances.Thefacade,towardstheboulevard,is constructedintheRomancircularstyle, andconsistedofthree stories.Theusualentranceishythewesternmostofthethreedoor ways,adjoiningwhichistheredwoodencottageofthepensioner ' whokeepsthekeyoftheruin(25-501.).Abovethishutisa tabletofwhitemarblerecordingtheheroicactionthe ofPhilhellene Fabvier,whobrokethroughthebesiegingTurkisharmynearthe Odeion(seep.46).Anicheattheentrancecontainsthestatueof aRomanmagistrate.Thedispositionoftheinteriorresemblesthat oftheTheatreofDionysos.Thelogeionorstagewas116ft.in breadthand26ft.indepth; itwasapproachedfromtheorchestra bytwo-smallflightsofsteps,partofoneofwhich(totheE.)is stillextant.Thenichesforthebeamsthatboretheplanksofthe stagearevisibleinthewallfront in ofthestage.Atthebackof thestageisamassivewall,piercedbythreestage-doors; there werealsoentrancestothestagethe inparasceniaoneachside. Abovethiswallwasarowofcolumnsbearingasecondstory,which wasperhapsusedfortheappearanceofdivinitiesintheplay(Theo- logeion); theholesbywhichthebeamsenteredthewallarevis ibleherealso.Therewasprobablystilla thirdstory.Theor chestra,62ft.inbreadth,ispavedwithparticolouredsquaresof marble; thefountainseemstohavebeenconnectedwithanancient aqueduct.Theauditorium,260ft.indiameter,accommodated 6000persons,thetiersofseatsrisingoneaboveanotheronthe rockyslopeof theAcropolis.Thelowerpart,containing20tiers, isdividedbyflightsofstepsintofive,the upper,with13(?)tiers, intotensections.Thelowestrowisdistinguishedbyastep serv ingasafoot-stoolandbylions'clawscarvedontheendsofeach division.TheseatswereallcoveredwithPentelicmarble.Behind theuppermostwasa rowcolonnade,andthewholebuildingwas coveredwithamagnificentroofofcedar,the constructionofwhich isobscure. A steepfootpathascendsfromtheW.sideoftheOdeionto theplateauinfrontoftheAcropolis(p.58).Itis,however,more convenienttofollowtheboulevard,andturntotherightalittle fartheron,oppositethetavern(SroxpoTTji). 0About8 pacestotheN.ofthesecondbendoftheroad,and separatedfromtheAcropolisbya depression,istherockyheight whichbothinancientandmoderntimeshasbornethenameofAreo pagus(ApeiocTto-ro;),orHillofMara(PI.B,C,6).Thetopofthe hill(376ft.)isflatandonthreesidesitdescendsgraduallytothe plain,whiletheN.E.sideisprecipitous.Aflightofabout16 stepscutin therockandnowinstate a ofruinascendstothesiteof

Acropolis. ATHENS. 8.Route.57 someancientaltars,forwhichplatformswerehewnintherock. TheancientcourtoftheAreopagus,consistingvenerable ofandem inentAtheniancitizensandexercisingsupremejurisdictioninall casesoflifeanddeath,helditssittingsonthishill,abovethe spring oftheEumenides(seebelow).Itwassaidtoderiveitsnamefrom thefactthatAresorMarswasthefirstpersontriedhere, for themurderofHalirrhotios; andOrestesalsoobtainedabsolution hereforthemurderofhismotherKlytamnestra.Atthebase oftheN.E.angleofthehill,inrailed-in a enclosuretowhichwe descendontheW.side,isa chaosofhugeblocksofrock,amid which,halfconcealedbycreepingplants,isadeepfissurewitha poolofblackwater.Thisgloomyrecessprobablyharbouredthe shrineoftheErinyes(Furies)oravengingdeitiesofblood,euphe misticallytermedtheEumenidesorwell-wishers.Itwasthescene of^Eschylos'stragedyofthatname.Itisusuallyassumedthatit was fromtheAreopagusthatPaul,inthespringof64A.D.,deli veredthespeechofwhichwehaveanaccountinthe17thchapter oftheActsoftheApostles("AvSpet'Aih)vatoi, xaxdTiavrau>? 5siaioai|AOveaT£pou?b|aSs{>£a>pa>: YemenofAthens,Iperceivethat inallthingsyearesomewhatreligious—not'toosuperstitious', astheAuthorizedVersionhasit).Itis,however,moreprobable thatthesceneofthespeechwastheKings'Hall(p.86),orplace ofbusinessoftheAreopagitesinthemarket-place.Alittleto the"W.of therockychaosabovedescribedaretheruinsofa ChristianchurchdedicatedtoDionysiostheAreopagite,Paul's firstconvertinAthens. ProfessorDorpfeld'sexcavations(1893)indicatethatthegentle W.slopethe ofAreopaguswasoneofthemostpopulousquarters ofthecityfromitsearliestdaysdowntothelate-Komanperiod. TheoldroadtotheAcropolis,nearlyparallelwiththepresentone, isstillrecognizable; anddirectpathsleaveitatthreepoints.Houses lineditonbothsides.Theremainsof theearliestdwellings,sunk moredeeplyandconstructedofpolygonalmasonry,are easily dis tinguishedfromthehigherRomanedificesbuiltofsmallstones.The sacreddistrictofDionysosLinaeos('inventorofthe wine-press') hasbeenidentified,asalsothewell-houseoftheKallirrhtie(Ennea- hrounos;seep.40). b. TheAcropolis. VisitorsarenowadmittedtotheAcropolisfreeany at timebetween sunriseandsunset.Those,however,whowishtomakea*Visittoitby moonlightrequirea specialpermesso(aScia),whichmaybeobtained gratis eitherthroughthehotel-keepersorbydirectapplicationtoM.Kav- vadicu(p.80),attheMinistryofReligionandEducation. Thenaturalcentreall ofsettlementsintheAtticplainwithin thehistoricalperiodhasbeenformedbythe**Acropolis, arocky plateauofcrystallinelimestone, risingprecipitouslytoaheightof about500ft.abovethesea.Thesemi-mythicalPelasgi,ofwhombut afewisolatedtraceshavebeenfoundinAttica,aresaidtohave 58 RouteS. ATHENS. Acropolis. levelled thetop,increasednatural thesteepnessoftherockonthree sides,builtawallroundit,andfortifiedtheonlyaccessiblepart ontheW.bytheso-calledEnnedpylonPelasgikon,orNineGates. TheAcropoliswastheearliestseatthe ofAtheniankings,who' here satinjudgmentandassembledtheircouncils,andalsoofthe chiefsanctuariesofthestate.Atalaterperiodthejudicialand popularassemblieswereremovedtothelower town,andtheAcro polisdevotedsolelytothegods.Peisistrato3,however,whoen richedtheAcropolisbyanewtempleofAthena(j>.65)andafine gateway,alsofixedhisownresidencehere.Theseancientbuild ingsweredestroyedbythePersiansinB.C.480-479,afterwhich ThemistoklesandKimonrenewedtheencirclingwalls.Thenbegan themeridianofitssplendourunderPerikles,whosebuildingsim partedtotheAcropolisitsfuturecharacter,andtheruinsofwhich stillpresentthefinestpictureoftheunrivalledartofantiquity. ThefirstroaddivergingtotherightfromtheDionysosAreiopagites street,a littletotheW.oftheOdeionofHerodesAtticus(see p.56),ascendstotheso-calledBeuleGate,ontheplateaubelow theupperandsteeperpartoftheW.sideoftheAcropolis.Walk ersmayalsoascendtothispointfromtheToweroftheWindsby theroutementionedatp.92. TheBeulbGate,namedaftertheFrenchsavantwhodiscover editin1852undertheTurkishbastionsthatpreviouslyconcealed it,hassince1889againbecomethemainentrancetotheAcropolis (comp.themoderninscriptionontheancientmarbletabletonthe inside).Itis5'/2ft.inwidthandliesexactlyintheaxisofthe centralopeningofthePropylaea.Itserectionmustdatefroma comparativelyverylateperiod; forthestoneswhich ofitiscon structedcanallbeprovedtohavebeenbroughtfroma choragic monumenterectedbyNikias,the sonofNikodemos,inB.C.320- 319.Onlythetwo lowtowerswithwhichthegatewayisflanked showbythecontinuityoftheirmason'smarksthattheywereform edof stonesspeciallypreparedforthepurpose,andtheyprobably datefromthe2ndcent,ofourera. From theBeule-Gateweascendastaircase,largelybuiltof ancientfragmentsandseveraltimesinterrupted,toanarrowplat formandthencetothePropylaea,belowwhichweseethepedestal ofAgrippa,totheleft,andthebastionbelowthetempleofNike (p.69),totheright.Thissteepascentmusthavebeenaccom plishedbyaflightofstepsin antiquityaswellasatpresent.The absenceofallreliabletracesofanyroutedivergingontheother sidehereseemstoindicatedecisivelythatthehorsemenand chariotsofthePanathenaeanprocessiondidnotactuallyascendthe hillbutremainedatthefoot.Itisprobablethattheancientroad ledfromtheS.side,belowtheNikebastion,inthedirectionofthe pedestalofAgrippa,thenturnedsharplytotheS.E., andended atthemiddlegatewayofthePropylaea. Templef o Nike. ATHENS. 8.Route.59 Totheleft,belowtheabove-mentionedplatform,aresome remainsofthemediaevalcastle-wall,beneathwhichisanantique wall,nearadepressionintheground,whereanancientaltarin Porosstonestillstandsinsitu.Totheright,ontheedgeofthe rock, alongwhicharailingrunsasfarastheNikebastion, are fragmentsofanarchitrave,adornedwithdovesandfillets,and accordingtotheinscriptionsuponthem,belongingtothetemple ofAphroditePandemos,whichprobablystoodinthisneighbour hood.AbovetheS.endoftheplatform,intheW.wallofthe Nikebastion,aretwoancientniches,supportedbymodernpillars andprobablyoccupiedoriginallybyfiguresofgodsorbyaltars. Thetower-likesquarepedestal,totheleft,66ft.inheightand I21/2X10ft.indiameterabovethebase,onceboreastatueof MarcusVipsaniusAgrippa,thecelebratedgeneralandson-in-law ofAugustus,erectedinB.C.27,the 3rdyearofhisconsulship. TheinscriptionontheE.sidecelebrateshimas abenefactorof thecity. To theN.ofthepedestalofAgrippaisastaircaseofabout60steps (entranceclosed)whichdescendstotheancientandcelebratedKlepsydra, orcastle-well.Thespringrisesfroma fissureintherockinasmall chamber,whichwasusedasachapelintheByzantineepoch.In ancient timesthespringbeyond lay thefortifications,likethatthe ofKadmeia atThebes.ItwasrediscoveredbyPittakisin1822onasearchbeing madeforwatertouseincasesiege. of PausaniasmentionsthesanctuariesofPanandApolloas closethe to Klepsydra.ThelargecavernattheK.W.angleoftherock,containing innumerablenichesforvotivecolumns, hasaccordinglybeenidentified astheGrottoofPan,adeityheldingreathonouratAthensonaccount ofthe*panic'withwhichheinspiredthe PersiansatMarathon.Euri pideshereplacesthesceneinhis'Ion',wherethethreedaughtersofKe- kropsdancetothemusicofPan'spipes.Itisalsotherendezvousagreed uponbytheenamouredspouses,KinesiasandMyrrhine,inthe'Lysistrata' ofAristophanes.Asecondcave,alittletotheN.W.,isbelievedtobe theGrottoofApolloHypdkraeos(i.e."underthehill'),whereKreusa,the daughterofErechtheus,wassurprisedbyApollo,andafterwardsbecame themotherofIon,theprogenitoroftheIonians.Boththesecaverns areaccessiblefromtheoutsideoftheAcropolisonly. A smallmarblestaircaseleadshencetotherighttotheNike terrace.Theleftcomer-pillariscoveredbyablockofHymettos marble,ontheuppersurfacewhich ofare tracesofanequestrian statue,whileonthetwosidesisapartlyobliteratedinscription. AsimilarmonumentstoodontheoppositeantaattheS.W.corner besidethePinakotheka.Bothrepresentedvotive-offeringserected fromthespoilsofvictorybyHipparchsorleadersofthecavalry. The**TempleofAthenaNikeorNikeApteros, whichstands onamassivestoneplatform26ft.high,wasentirelyreconstructed byRoss,Schaubert,andHansenin1835-36,withthefragmentsof theoriginalbuildingbroughttolightonthedestructionofaTurk ishbattery.Thedateofitsoriginalerectionis stillamootpoint. Themostprobabletheorylooksuponitinitspresentformascon nectedwiththePropylsaa,thoughthebastiononwhichitstands 60 Route8. ATHENS. Acropolis. cannot havebeencontemplatedintheoriginalplanofthegreat gateway.LikethePropylaea,thisdiminutivebutbeautifultemple consistsentirelyofPentelicmarble.Itis18ft.wideand27ft. long,andstandsonastylobateofthreesteps.Itiswhatiscalled anAmphiprostyleTetrastyletemple,havingaporticowithfourcol umnsateachend,butnonethe onsides.Thecolumnsareofthe IonicorderandI31/4ft.inheight,includingthebaseandcapital. Thearchitraveconsistsof threemembers,abovewhichisasculptur edfrieze(seebelow).Onlyafewfragmentsoftheroofhavebeen found; itendedontheE.andV.inpediments,whichwereun adornedwithsculptures.Theentrancetothecella,whichis13ft. 9in.wideand12ft.5in.deep,isformedbytwopillars,formerly connectedwiththeantaebyarailingorbalustrade.Thestatueof thegoddessapomegranate held intherighthandandahelmetin theleft.ThenameofiVifteApteros,orthe'WinglessVictory',is misleading,asthereferenceistoaspecialtypeofAthena,notto thegoddessNike.ThetemplebelongstotheearlierperiodofIonic architecture,asisprovedbythecomparativelylargesizeofthe oapitalsandtheDoric-liketaperingoftheshafts.Thesmallsizeof thetemple,however,anditsunusualsituationmustbetakeninto accountinconsideringthepeculiaritiesofitsarchitecture. ThegreaterpartoftheFkieze,whichis86ft.inlengthand 17'/2in-inheight,hasbeenpreserved.Fourpanelsweretakento EnglandbyLordElgin,andarereplacedbyreproductionsinterra cotta.Theothers,foundbyRossin1834,occupytheiroriginalposi tion,thoughtheexactarrangementofthereliefsatthesidesisprob lematical.OntheE.endisanassemblyofthegods,withAthenain theirmidst.Asalltheheadsandallthespecialattributesexcept Athena'sshieldarewanting,itisimpossibletoidentifyallthedi vinities.ThetwosittingmalefiguresnexttoAthenaareZensand Poseidon.AboveZeusaretheremainsofasmallerfiguresupposed tobeGanymedeorPan(comp.p.59).AttheS.anglearePeitho (Persuasion)andAphrodite,thelatterholdingErosbythehand. Noneoftheothershavebeenrecognised.—Thereliefsatthesides representtheE.) (onthebattlesoftheGreeksandPersians(or Amazons?),manyofthefiguresbeingrepresentedonhorseback, and(on theW.)battlesamongGreeks,perhapsthevictoryofthe AtheniansovertheBoeotians,thelatterhavingsidedwiththePer siansatthebattleofPlataese.hastherefore It beensupposedthat thegeneralaimofthefriezewasthecelebrationoftheBattleof Plataeaeandoftheaidthererenderedbythegods.If thisideabe correct,thenit isprobablethattheE.reliefrepresentsAthena pleadingthocauseofhercityinthecounciloftheImmortals. The marblecopingonthe topofthebastionsupportingthe templewasinancienttimessurmountedbyaBalustrade,whichwas adornedonitsoutersidewithreliefs,andboreabronzerailing. Thesocketsintowhichthe blocksofmarblefittedcanstillbetraced Templef o NUce. ATHENS. 5.Route.61 ontheW.andN.sidesofthetemple.Atthesmallstaircaseonthe N.sidethebalustradeturnedtotheS.andwasprolongedtothe N.E.angleofthetemple.Itisprobablethatitalsoborderedthe S.edgeofthebastion,andstruckoffatanangle,similartothaton theN.side,join totheS.E.cornerofthetemple.Thecomposition containedfiguresofVictory,erectingtrophiesandleadingcattle tothesacrifice,inthepresenceofAthena.Oneofthetrophiescon sistsofspoilstakenfromthePersians,whileanotherevidently commemoratesanavalvictory.OneslabrepresentedaNikekneel inguponanox,andabouttoplungethesacrificialknifeintoits body.Themost admiredamongtheremainsofthisparapetarethe slabsbearingarepresentationofacowledbytwoVictoriesandthe 'sandal-fastening'Nike,butthetrainedandsympatheticeyewill alsofinda feastofbeautyintheotherfragments(p.80).Au thoritiesnow areunanimousinascribingtheseexquisitereliefsto theendofthefifthcenturybeforeourera(430-400B.C.)- The *ViewfromtheplatformattheW.endofthetempleof Nikeisjustlycelebrated. sBeforeu lietheBayofPhaleron,thepeninsulaofMunychia,the townandharbourofPiraeus,andtheislandofSalamis,infrontofwhich isthesmallislandofPsyttaleia,withitslighthouse.Alittlefartherto theright,beyondtheBayofMentis,risesthedome-likerockofAero- Corinth,backedbyloftierandmoredistantheights.Totherightof this,butintheimmediateforeground,risetherockystepsofthePnyx. Intheplainare thevenerableoliveplantations.AbovetheseriseSkara- mangaandthemountainsofMegara.OntheS.W.,totheleftofthe tower-likeMonumentofPhUopappos,opensthewideSaronicGulf,backed bytheislandofJSgina,withtheloftyMt.Elias,themountainsofArgo- lis,andtheislandofHydra.Totheleftwehaveanunimpededviewof thecoastofAtticaasfarasthelittleislandofOaidaronisi,offCapeSun- ion,adistanceofover30M.ThiswasthesceneByronhadinhismind intheopeninglinesofthethirdcantoof'TheCorsair'. 'Slow sinks,morelovelyere hisraceberun, 'AlongMorea'shillsthesettingsun; 'Not,asinnorthernclime3,obscurelybright, 'Cer'Butonetheuncloudedhusheddeepblazetheofyellowlivingbeamlighthe! throws, 'Gildsthegreenwave,thattremblesasitglows. 'Onold-flSgina'srockandIdra'sisle, 'Thegodofgladnessshedshispartingsmile; 'O'erown hisregionslingering,lovestoshine, 'Thoughtherehisaltarsarenomoredivine. 'Descendingfastthemountain shadowskiss 'Thygloriousgulf,unconquer'dSalamis! 'Theirazurearchesthroughthelongexpanse 'Moredeeplypurpledmeethismellowingglance, 'Andtenderesttints,alongtheirsummitsdriven, 'Markhisgaycourse,andownthehuesofheaven; 'Till,darklyshadedfromthelandanddeep, 'BehindhisDelphiancliffhesinksto sleep.1 Here,accordingtothe oldlegendrelatedbyPausanias,KingJEgeus tookhisstandtocatchthefirstglimpseofthereturningshipinwhich TheseushadsailedtoCrete.Theseusunhappilyforgottohoistthewhite sailsthatweretoannouncehisvictoryovertheMinotaur,andhisaged father,believingtheblacksailstobeasignalofthedeathofhisson, threwhimselfheadlongfromtherock. 62 Route8. ATHENS. Acropolis. The**Propylsea(JlpoiiuXata),themostimportantsecularwork inancientAthens,consistingentirelyofPentelicmarble, wasbe guninB.C.437,onthefoundationsofanearliergateway(p.58), and wascompletedinfiveyears,asfarasiteverwascompleted,t ThearchitectwasMnesikles.Thismagnificentbuilding,'the bril liantjewelonthefrontoftheconspicuousrockycoronetofthe AthenianAcropolis',rivalledtheParthenonintheadmirationofthe ancients; andevennow,whentimeandthedestructivenessofman havedonetheirworst,werecognizeinitsnobledesignthebloom ofeternalyouth.Theimposingstructureconsistsofacentralgate wayand twowings,occupyingthewholeoftheupperW.sideof theAcropolis.Thegatewayproperconsistsofawallpiercedwith fiveopenings,beforewhichoneithersidelietheDoric colonnades thatgivenametothewhole(Tlpoit6Xaia,thatwhichliesbeforethe itdXat,orgates).Eachofthesecolonnadeshassixcolumnsinfront andwassurmountedbyafriezeoftriglyphsandmetopes,crowned byapediment; thepedimentswereprobablydestituteofsculpture, asWhelerandSponsawtheminthisconditionin1675. The. W Portico,towhichweascendbymeansofthreehuge stepsofmarbleanddark-blueEleusinianstone,12-14in.in heightand16in.inwidth,islargerthantheE.portico.Itssix anteriorcolumnsbelongtotheDoricorderandconsequentlyrise directlyfromthestylobate,withoutbases;theyare28ft.in height,ofwhich2ft.3in.areoccupiedbythecapital,andvaryin diameterfrom5ft.3in.atthebottomto3ft.11in.wherethey jointhecapital.Theflutes,separatedbysharpedgeB,are20in numberoneachcolumn.Thespacebetweenthetwocentralcol umnsis12ft.7in.whiletheotherintercolumniationsvaryfrom 5ft.IOY2in.to6ft.7in.Behindeachofthecentralcolumns standthreeslenderIoniccolumnswiththeirappropriatebases. Whencompletethesecolumnswere33ft.7in.high,thecapital measuring2ft.372in.,andthebase1ft.Hy^in.;theshafts, 3ft.2in.indiameteratthebase,have24flutes,separatedby narrowfillets.Theceilingwasdividedintosunkpanelsadorned withpainting. Nonef o theIoniccapitalsarenowintheirplaces,butthefragments ofthemscatteredaroundshowtracesofpainting.OtherIonicrelicsof greatbeautyarelyingnear,andsomeofthesquarecompartmentsofthe roof,adornedwithgiltstarson ablueground,arealsopreserved. The centralpartofthePropylaeawasboundedontheN.and S.bymassivewalls,54ft.long,endingonbothsidesinco lossalantsB.Betweenthese,atadistanceofabout8ft.fromthe innermostoftheIoniccolumns, stretchesfromsidetosidethe gatewayproper,consisting,asaboveremarked, ofwall a withfive openings.Theside-entrancesareapproachedbyfivestepsabout 1ft.high, ofwhichthefirstfourareofmarbleandtheupper- t SeeHolm,'DiePropylaenderAkropoliflsuAthen'(Berlin,1882). Propylaea. ATHENS. 8.Route.63 fmosto black Eleusinianstone;thecentralgateway,through whichthemainroadwaypasses,hasnosteps.Thecentralopening is24ft.2in.highand13ft.8in.wide; thetwoopeningsnext itare17ft.8in.highand972ft.wide;whilethetwoouterportals areonlyft. 113in.highand4ft.9in.wide.Theseentrancesmust allhavebeenclosedbymassivegates,thegratingnoiseofwhich inopeningisalludedtobyAristophanes. TheE. j Portico,whichis19ft.indepthand59ft.inwidth, correspondstothefronthalfthe ofW.portico.ItssixDoriccol umnsstandupona stylobateby raisedtwostepsabovethegate wayproper; fiveofthemstillbeartheircapitalsandtwoarestill unitedbyoneofthehugeblocksofstoneformingthearchitrave. Thetask ofspanningtheintervalsbetweenthecolumnsby hugestonebeams, someofwhichrequiredtobe20ft.inlength, andtheproblemofharmonizingthedifferentelevationsofthe"W, andE.porticospresenteddifficulties,themagnitudeofwhichis apparentonthemostcursoryinspection.Thesizeofthefallen remainsofthesebeamsaffordsanideaofthepowerandperfection oftheapparatususedinswingingthemintotheirplaces. Thebest-preservedpartthe ofPropylseaistheNorthWing,which consistsofaportico,36ft.3in.wideand13ft.deep,andaninner hall,measuring35ft.3in.by 29ft.5in.Thefrontthe ofpor ticoisformedbythreeDoriccolumns,19ft.highand21/4-31/4ft. indiameter,arranged'inantis'.Thepartitionbetweentheporch andtheinnerroomispiercedbyadoorandtwowindows,theformer 14ft.highand9ft.4in.wide.ThisinnerroomisnamedthePina- kotheka,fromitsuseasareceptacleforvotivepaintings.Thena tureofthewallsrendersthesuppositionofmuralpaintingsinad missible.—TheSouthWingismuchsmaller,anditsremainsconsist merelyoftwocolumnsandtheback-wall.OntheW.thewing opensonthebastionthatbearstheTempleofNike. The originalplanofMnesikleswasprobablyverymateriallymodified, inconsequenceoftheoutbreakofthePeloponnesianWar.Thusthe8. wingwastobefurnishedonthesidenexttheNiketemplebyacolonnade inalinewiththeW.wallofthePropylsea,andwastobecompletedon the3.byabuildingcorrespondingtothePinakotheka.So,too,theinner porticoofthecentralbuildingwastobeextendedbycolonnadesonthe N.andS.,thelattercrossingtheBrauronianterrace.Thepieceofma sonryintheangleformedbytheS.wallofthecentralbuildingandthe E.walloftheS.wingisafragmentofanancientgateway,erectedbefore thedaysofMnesikles,probablyinthetimeofEimon. During the13thcent,theFranksconvertedthe N.wingofthePro pylseaintogovernmentoffices,andbuilttheso-called'ToweroftheFranks' above8. thewing.Thistower,formerlyaconspicuousobjectinmost viewsoftheAcropolis,wasremovedin1875.TheTurkishpashasafter wardsresidedhere,untilthecentralstructurewasdestroyedbyanex plosionofgunpowderin1687.ATurkishbattery,whichextendedfrom theTempleofNiketotheN.wingofthePropylaea,wasremovedin 1835(comp.p.59). Passing throughtheE.porticoofthePropylaea,weenterthe InnerPrecinctsoftheAcropolisandascendagradualslope,now 64 Route8. ATHENS. Acropolis. covered withruinsandpresentingaprofoundlyimpressivescene. Herethespectatorshouldendeavourtopictureinhismindthe imposingParthenon,risingaboveall(ontheright),thecharming Erechtheionontheleft,withtheirrichsculptureandbrilliantco louring,andthenumeroussmallershrines; thentheprofusionof votiveofferingsandtheforestofstatuesandgroupswhichhere greetedtheeyewhenthehugegatesofthe Propylseawerethrown opentoadmitthePanathenseanprocession.Hewillthenbeen abledtoappreciatethejustenthusiasmofAristophanes,whenhe exclaims: 'Ohthou,ourAthens,violet-wreathed,brilliant, mostenviablecityI' From thecentralentranceofthePropylseaawideandsmooth roadway,providedwithgroovestoaffordabetterfoothold,ascends alongthemainaxisofthecitadel.Therockhasevidentlybeen muchcutawayheretofacilitatetheascent,asmaybeprovedbya glanceattherockyterracetotheright,whichhasaprecipitous face6ft.inheight.Theancientroadswereflankedwithinnumer ablevotiveofferingsandstatues,thepositionofwhichisnowindi catedbysquaredepressions(sockets)intherockorbyoverturned bases.Theformerareespeciallynumerousinthespacebetween theroadandtheterraceof rock.Pausaniashasdescribedagreat numberofthestatuesandreliefsthatadornedtheAcropolis. AmongthoseinthePropylaeawerethreedrapedGraces,whichhe ascribestoSocrates,thephilosopher,andafigureofHermes Propylaeos.InthesameconnectionPausaniasdescribesabra zenLioness,traditionallysaidtobeasymbolicalrepresentation ofLeaena,themistressofAristogeiton,whoevenwhenputtothe torture,refusedtoconfessherknowledgeofthetyrannicide.At theS.columnoftheE.colonnadeofthePropylaaaisthepedestal ofastatueAthena ofHygieia(Athenaasthegoddessofhealth)ex ecutedbyPyrrhos,andsaidbyPlutarchtohavebeenerectedby Periklestocommemoratethemarvellousfactthatthegoddesshad appearedtohiminadreamandprescribedaremedyforaskilful workmanwhohadbeeninjuredbyfallingfromtheroofofthePro pylsea.Afewpacestothe E.liesthesquarebasementofanaltar, thesizeofwhichistraceablebythedepressionsinthestone. AmongtheotherworksofartinthisvicinityweretheBoywith thecenserbyLykios,andPerseusinconflictwithMedusabyMyron. Thealready-mentionedterraceofrockontheright,towhich, fartheron,ninestepscutintherockascend,borethe sanctuaryof ArtemisBrauronia,adeityheldinhighhonourbytheAthenian matronsandmaidens.Thelaterstatueofthegoddesswasawork ofPraxiteles.AmongthenumerousvotiveofferingsintheBrau- ronionPausaniasmentionsarepresentationoftheTrojanHorse,In bronze,byStrongylion.Twomarbleplinths,10ft.inlength,in Par'henon. ATHENS. 8.Route.65 .theW partthis of enclosureandoppositetotheE.porticoof thePropylsa,bearinscriptionswhichprovethemtobethepedestal ofthiswork.Otherworkswhichweknowtohavebeenherewerea groupofAthenaandMarsyasandtheStruggleofTheseuswiththe Minotaur.Theterraceisnowcoveredwithnumerousfragmentsof theentablatureandceilingofthePropylasa,someofthelatterstill showingtracesofbluepaint.TheareaisboundedontheW.bya fragmentofabroadwall,originallyaportionofthePelasgicfortifi cations(p.57). To theE.oftheBrauronionisanotherandsomewhathigher terraceof rock, whichissupposedtohavebeenoccupiedbythe sacredenclosureofAthenaErg&ne,orAthenaaspatronessofin ventionandthearts,ofwhichnotracenowremains.Besidesthe Athenians,theSamians,Spartans,andThespiansalsoworshipped thegoddessunderthisaspect.Ninenarrowsteps,withindenta tionsforvotiveofferings,boundthisenclosureontheE.,infront oftheParthenon.TotheN.oftheseliesthebaseofastatue, whichtheinscriptionshowstohavebeendedicatedbyHermolykos, thesonofDiitrephes.Adjacentwasagroupofstatuesona long basement,ofwhicha largeparthasbeenpreserved.Fourfrag mentsofthishavebeensoarrangedthattheinscriptionscanbe readcontinuously. Theinscriptionrelatesthatthegroupofstatuesonthisbasement wereexecutedbySthennisandLeochares,anderectedherebyPandaetes andPasiklesofthedemeofPotamos.Fourofthepersonsrepresented wereLysippe,daughterofAlkibiadesofCholleidceandwifeofPandsetes MyronofPotamos,sonofPasikles; Pasikleshimself,sonofanotherMy ron;andAristomache,daughterofPasiklesandwifeofEchekles.The fifthfigure,ofwhichtheinscriptionhasbeenlost,wasperhapsthatof Pandaetes.Theinscriptionsontheothersideshowthatthebasement wasafterwardsusedtosupportstatuesofTrajan,Germanicus,Augustus, andDrusus 0About3 pacestotheN.W.ofthispointand40pacestothe E. ofthePropylseaisalargeplatformcutintherock,whichprob ablyborethecolossalstatueofAthenaPromachos('lighterinthe van'),executedbyPhidiasinbronzecomposedofthespoilsofMa rathon.Thefigureofthegoddess,66ft.inheight,wasinfull armourandleantonalance,thegildedpointofwhichformed a landmarktomarinersastheyapproachedAthensfromCape Sunion. Theprincipalroadway, followedbytheancientprocessions, passesbetweentheErechtheionandtheParthenon,andleadstothe E.frontthe oflatter. The **Parthenon(6Ilap&s^obv),themostperfectmonumentof ancientartandeveninruinsanimposingandsoul-stirringob ject, occupiestheculminatingpointoftheAcropolis,towering aboveallitsneighbours.Itexcelledalltheotherbuildingsof ancientAthensinthebrilliancyofitspolychromeandplastic embellishment,butalmostalltracesthe offormerandmostofthe Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 5 66 Route8. ATHENS. Acropolis. latter havenowdisappeared.Atemplewasbegunonthisspotby Kimon,butitwasneverfinished;themassivesubtructureswhich counteracttheabruptfallofthegroundtowardstheS.arechiefly duetoKimon.ThepresentParthenon,consistingthroughoutof Pentelicmarble,wasbuiltbythearchitectsIktinosandKallikrates. Thehonourofdeterminingonthebuildingandofprocuringthe necessaryfundsbelongstoPerikles.Theplasticornamentationof theexteriorisuniversallyascribedtoPhidias,whonotonlysupplied thedesignsandexercisedageneralsupervision,butalsoactually executedapartofitwithhisownhand.Phidias,whowasaninti matefriendofPerikles,actedashisrighthandandcounsellorin allhismagnificentbuildingschemes.Someideaofthelengthof timetheParthenonmusthavetakentobuildmaybegatheredfrom theconsiderationthatitincluded62largeand36smallcolumns, about50lifesizestatuesforthepediments,afrieze524ft.in length,92metopes,andachryselephantinefigureofthegoddess 39ft.high.Itappearstohavebeenopenedforpublicworship inB.C.438,whenthestatueofAthenawaserectedduringthe PanathenaeanFestival. Above thesubstructurelaythemarbleKrepfdoma,orbasis proper,oftheParthenon,risinginthreesteps,eachaboutl2/3ft.in height.Thesestepsarenotexactlyhorizontalbutshowaslight convexityinthemiddle, a factofwhichanyonecanconvince himselfbyplacinghiseyeonalevelwiththeendofoneofthem. TheStylobate,orplatformonwhichthecolumnsstand,isalmost onalevelwiththeridgeofthe Propylsea; itis228ft.longand 101ft.broad.Onthisrise46Doriccolumns,formingtheouter frameworkofthetemple; 8oftheseareateachendand17 oneach side,thecornercolumnsbeingcountedtwice.Theaverageheight ofthecolumns,mostofwhichareformedof12sectionsordrums, is344/4ft.; thelowerdiameteris6ft.3in., theupper4ft.10in. Thecolumnstapergraduallytowardsthetopandshowalsoaslight swellingorconvexity(Entasis)inthemiddle,whichhastheeffect ofimpartingtothemanappearanceofgracefulandelasticstrength. Theflutes,whichare20innumber,diminishinwidth,thoughnot indepth,astheyapproachthecapital,anarrangementbywhicha fineeffectofshadowisproduced.Thetransitionfromtheshaftto thecapitalismarkedbyfourrings(HimantesorAnnuli)cutin the marble.ThecapitalitselfconsiststheEchinus of orovalmoulding, onwhichawreathofpendantleaveswasprobablypainted,andof asquaredieorplinthnamedtheAbacus.TheIntercolumnium,or spacebetweeneachpairofcolumns,iscomparativelysmall,espe ciallyattheends,whereit isonly7ft.4in.compared as with8ft. 2in.atthesides.Thenarrowestinterspaceisthatadjoiningthe corner-columns,whichareslightlyhigherandthickerthantheir neighbours.Allthecolumnsleanaverylittletowardsthein terior.—OntheabacusreststhesimpleArchitraveorEpistyle, Parthenon. ATHENS. 8.Route.67 which hereconsistsofthreeblocksofmarbleplacededgewiseone behindanotherinsteadofa singleblockwhich wouldhavebeen muchmoredifficulttohandle.Thequadrangularholesinthearchi travewerefilledwithbronzepegs,onwhichhungwreathsand otheradornments, besideswhichthearchitraveattheendswas decoratedwithmagnificentshields(14ontheE.,8ontheW.). These,however,wereofa laterdateandaresupposedtohave beenplacedherebyAlexandertheGreatafterhisvictoryatthe GranikosinB.C.334.Theprojectinguppermouldingofthear chitravewasoriginallydecoratedwithpaintedscrollwork,and fromit,beloweachtriglyph,hungrowsofRegulae(Outtae),or drops,whichwerealsocoloured.AbovethisistheTriglyphon, ortriglyphfrieze, themostcharacteristicfeatureoftheDoricor der.Aboveeachcolumnandoverthecentreofeachintercolumnia- tionisaTriglyph(-?)TpfyXucpos,triplegroove),atabletactingasthe supportoftheroofandfluteda likecolumnwiththreegrooves. TheMetopes(u.eT07iat,interspaces),orspacesbetweenthetriglyphs, leftvacantintheoldestDoricbuildings,arehereoccupiedbytab letswithreliefs(comp.p.69).Thechannelsofthetryglyphswere paintedadeep-bluecolour,andthefieldsofthemetopeswereprob ablyred;andagaily-colouredfrettedscrollmaeander or ran alongthe uppermarginofthetriglyphon.ThelastisunitedwiththeQeison, orundermostflatmouldingofthecornice,bytheAstragal(so- calledfromitsresemblancetoastringofdaxpafaXoiorknuckle bones),whichhasbeenborrowedfromtheIonicorder.Thepro jectingcorniceisundercutinsuchawaythatasmallrectangular band,termedtheMutule,isleftaboveeachtriglyphandabove thecentreofeachmetope; fromthelowersideofthemutulehang dropslikethosebelowthetriglyphs.Thelowerpartthe ofcornice waspaintedblueandthemutulesred; thedropswereprobably gildedj whiletheKymation,orroundedmouldingatthetopof theDoriccornice,wasadornedwithwreathsofleavesinblue andred. At thefrontandbackofthetempletheentablaturewassur mountedbythetriangularPediment,theenclosinglinesofwhich formedanangleofiSl/2°withthehorizontalcornice.Thetopand bottommembersofthepediment(Qeisa)projectasinthecornice, andwereadornedwithaso-calledLesbiankymationofheart- shapedleaves.TheyformasitweretheframeoftheTympanum, orrecedingfieldofthepediment,whichconsistsofmasonryand helpedtosupporttheroof.Inthepresentinstancethetympanum is96*/«ft.longand11V2ft.highinthecentre;itssurfacere cedesnearly3ft.fromtheenclosingcornices.Itcontainedgroups ofstatues(p.69),whichwerethrownintostrongreliefbythe paintedredbackground.Theraisededges(Simae)oftheexternal membersofthepedimentareintendedtopreventtherain-water escapingoverthefront; theywereadornedwithaflowingborder 5* 68 Route8. ATHENS. Acropolis. ofAnthemia,orfloralornaments.TheAkroterion,orornamentat theapexofthepediment,alsoconsistedof acarvedanthemion, whileateachof the cornersgolden stoodoil-jar. aTheroofcon sistedoftilesofParianmarhle,about1inchthick,andwassup portedpartlybywooden,andpartlybystonebeams.Thelower edge, alongthesides,wasembellishedwithtastefullydecorated Antefixae(edging-tiles),betweenwhichtherain-waterescaped. Thelions'headsateachendarepurelyornamental. The Cella(Sirpuk),orsanctuaryproper,towhichtheexternal colonnadeformsasitwereamagnificentshellorhusk,israised twosteps(2Y3ft.)abovethestylobate.Ofitselfitformsahand someamphiprostyletempleoftheDoricorder,194ft.longand 69Y2ft-wide,with6columnsateitherend,33ft.inheight.The outermostcolumnsontherightandleftfacetheAntaeintheends oftheside-walls.Thearchitravewasfinishedoffatthetopbya roundedmouldingwithpendants,abovewhich,insteadofthetri- glyphon,wasacontinuousfrieze(Zdphdroi),524ft.inlength.Of thisonlytheW.partisnowinitsplace.Thecorniceabovethe friezeconsistedof aDorickymation(paintedblueandred),a frettedscroll, andfinallyof aLesbiankymationwithredand whiteleaves.Uponthisrestedthecross-beamssupportingthe ceilingofthecolonnade,whichwasdividedintorichly-adorned sunkencompartmentsorlacunars.Theporticosateachendwere closedbyloftyironrailingsbetweenthecolumns.ThePronaos, orE.portico,wasusedforthereceptionofcostlyvotiveofferings. Theinteriorofthecellawasdividedbyapartitionwallintotwo unequalparts.TheE.andlargerofthese,96ft.longand63ft. wide,wastheNaos,orinner sanctuaryofthegoddess; itwas enteredfromthePronaosbyaheavydoubledoor,tracesofwhich arestillvisibleonthepavement.Thisspacewasalsoknownas theHekatompedos,fromthefactthatitslength,includingthewall ofpartition(6^2ft.thick),isexactlyequalto100ancientAttic feet.TheNaoswasdividedlongitudinallyintothreepartsbytwo rowsofDoriccolumns(9 ineach),slighttracesofthepositionof whichmaybestillmadeoutonthepavementinagoodlight.In thecentralaisle, nearthepartitionwallandatransverserowof columns,isaquadrangularspacepavedwithdark-colouredstone, onwhichstoodthecelebratedgoldandivoryStatueofAthena Parthenos(i.e.thevirginAthena),ft.in 39height,themost admiredworkof Phidias.Theceilingwasofwood,dividedinto squarelacunars,whichwere undoubtedlybrilliantlycoloured.The wallswerepaintedadarkred.—Thespacebetweentheendofthe cellaandtheOpisthddomos,orW.portico,was44ft.inlengthand formedaninnercella,towhichthenameofParthenonwasusually appliedinitsmostrestrictedsense.Itsstonecofferedroofwasborne byfourIoniccolumns.ItwasconnectedbyadoorwiththeOpis- thodomos. Parthenon. ATHENS. .8.Route.69 ThecrowninggloryoftheParthenonwasthemagnificentsculp tures,withwhichitwasadornedbythechiselandunderthesu perintendenceofPhidias, andwhichregisterthehighestlevel everattainedbytheplasticart.OfthestatueoftheVirginGoddess wecan,evenwiththehelpofimitations,formbutafaintidea (p.100;comp.p.lxxxiv).Asinallworksofthekind,theinner kernelofthefigureconsistedwood, ofonwhichthefigurewas modelledinsomeplasticmaterial; andthisinturnwascovered withtheplatesofivorywhichformedthenudeportionsthe of statueandthegoldwhichformedthegarmentsandaccessories. Accordingtothemostprobablecalculationthevalueoftheprecious metalusedinthestatueamountedto44talentsofgold(equalto 617l/2talentsofsilver)orabout160,000i. The sculpturesofthePedimentsarethemostimportantnow extant;thoseoftheE.frontrepresentthebirthofAthena,and thoseoftheW.frontthestrifeofAthenaandPoseidonforthepos sessionofAthens.Athenaherselfprobablyformedthecentral figureofthecompositionintheE.pediment;nexttohersatZeus, fromwhoseheadsheissuedinfullarmour,herexitbeingfacili tatedbytheblowofHephiestos; NikeorIrisisrepresentedasstart ingtocommunicatethegoodnewstomortals.Nearlyalltheex tantfiguresarenowintheBritishMuseum,andathoroughlyhar moniousexplanationofthemisdifficult.Theonlypartsofthe groupsnowinsituaretheheadsofthetwohorsesoftheascend ingchariotofHelios(totheleft)andtheheadofahorseofthe chariotofSelene,ortheMoon,sinkingintotheseaattheapproach ofDay.TheAcropolisMuseumcontainsfragmentsofHephsestos andSelene(p.79).—Thecentreof theW.pedimentwasoccupied byPoseidoninhischariotdrawnbyhippocampi,orsea-horses,and bythechariotofAthena; betweenthemwastheolive-treeproduced byAthena,andprobablyalsoarepresentationofthesalt-spring whichPoseidoncausedtogushforthbyastrokeofhistrident.The remainsintheBritishMuseumarebynomeanssowellpreservedas thosefromtheE.pediment,andauthoritiesdifferstillmorewide ly astheir to signification.OntheParthenonitselfisagroupof twofigures,supposedbyMichaelistobejEsculapiusandHygieia; themalefigureisinasemi-recumbentposition,proppeduponhis leftarm,whilethewomankneelingbesidehimhasherrightarm roundhisneck; attheother(right)angleofthepedimentisthe torsooffemale a figure,usuallydescribedasthenymphKallirrhoe. TheotherextantsculpturesofthispedimentareintheBritish Museum,withtheexceptionofafemaleheadin Parisandafew fragmentsintheAoropolisMuseum. The reliefsontheMetopes,betweenthetriglyphs(p.79), »rebynomeansofsogreatartisticvalueasthepedimentgroups; someofthemindeedseemtohavebeenexecutedbyveryin feriorhands.Ofthe92,whichoriginallyadornedthetemple,56 70 Route38. ATHENS. Acropolis. arestillextant.The28metopesofthetwofrontsand12of theN.sidearestillintheiroriginalposition,thoughinasadly defectivestate,whileoftheS.reliefs15areinLondonand1in Paris.Themetopesrepresentedthecontestsofthegodsandgiants (E.),thoseoftheLapithaeandAthenianswiththeCentaurs(S.), thoseoftheAtheniansandAmazons(W.),andlastlythesiege ofTroy.Theirexactarrangementcannotnowbedetermined. Thesesculptureswereinhighrelief,insomecasesapproaching theround,thoughneverprojectingbeyondtheenclosingedgeof themetope.Theireffectwasalmostcertainlyenhancedpaint by ing,thoughtrace noofthisnowremains.Pausaniasmentions neitherthemetopesnorthefrieze; andouronlysourceinform of ationaboutthosethatarelostisderivedfromsomedrawingsmade bytheFrenchpainterCarreyin1674. WenowturnourattentiontothemasterpieceofAtticbas-relief, thecelebrated**FitrEZE,orZoph6rus,524ft.longand3ft.3*/2in- high,whichencircledtheexteriorwallofthecella,ataheightof 39ft.abovethestylobateandimmediatelybelowthecornice.On theW.frontthefriezeisstillinitsplace,andtherearealsoafew fragmentsontheS.side; twenty-twoslabsarepreservedin the AcropolisMuseum(p.79),andtherestin areLondon.Theposition andcharacterofthefriezesuggestedaprocession;andPhidias madeamasterlyuseoftheopportunitytounfoldinfulldetailthe gloryandpowerofAthensintheserviceofthegoddess.Mostau thoritiesagreeinconsideringthesubjectofthefriezetobethefes tiveprocessionwhichascendedtotheAcropolisattheendofthe Panathensea,forthepurposeofpresentingtothegoddessapeplos, orrobe,wovenandembroideredbyAthenianvirgins.Thesceneat theE.end(nowinLondon),abovetheentrance,representsthe presentationofthepeplostothegoddessbyaman,aboy,awo man,and twogirls.Thegodstotherightofthespectatorseemto beAthenaHephsestos, and PoseidonandApollo(orDionysos?), Peitho,AphroditeandEros; totheleftareZeus,HeraNike and (orIris),Ares,Demeter,Dionysos(orApollo?),andHermes.The deitiesawaittheprocession,whichadvancestowardsthemalong theN.andS.sidesofthebuilding,asif ithadsplitIntotwo partsattheW.end.'Thegroupattheheadofthenorthernpro cession,nexttoEros,consistsofelderlymenindignifiedconver sation,whoarefollowedbyanumberofmatronsandvirgins.The firstoftheseseemtohaveborneontheirheadsshallowvesselsor baskets,ofwhichthemenInfrontwereabouttorelievethem. Twootherscarryathymiaterion,orcenser,andtherest paterae andvases.TheseallformedpartofthesculpturesattheE.end; thenextgroup,consistingofthesacrificialoxenandsheep, ledbyyoungmen,beginstheseriesontheN.longwall.These arefollowedbythreemenwithtraysandthreewith water- vessels.Afourthisrepresentedintheactofliftinghisvasefrom Parthenon. ATHENS. 8. Route.71 the round, g andseemstocloseonesectionof theprocession.The nextsectionisheadedhyfourflute-playersandfourlyre-players, whoarefollowed,insomewhatcloserorder,byanumberofbeard edmen,ten(?)quadrigae, andyouthfulwarriorswithhelmets, shields,andarmour.Thesecondhalfofthissideisdevotedtoa brillianttrainofAthenianyouthsonhorseback,andattheW. endwefindothersstillengagedinbridlingandsaddlingtheir steeds.Marshals,ormanagersoftheprocession,arevisibleatdif ferentpointsofthefrieze.ThefriezeontheS.side,beginning atHermesontheE.front,correspondsinitsmainfeaturestothe onejustdescribed'.—Thefiguresinthisfriezeareexecutedin verylowrelief,ll/j-Stn.indepth,inordertoavoidthedeepshad owswhichwouldotherwisehavebeencastthroughthelightreaching themfrombelow.Thebackgroundandpartsofthefigureswere paintedindifferentcolours, andthehorse-bridles,thestavesof theheralds,andthewreathsofthehorsemenwereofgoldorsome othermetal.Tracesofdifferenthandsrevealthemselvesinthe executionofthefrieze,but onespiritbreathesthroughoutthe wholeandthedesignwascertainlyconceivedbyPhidiashimself.The finishingtoucheswereevidentlyputtothefriezeafteritserection. AstheErechtheionwasatalltimesthemostintimateandholiest seatofthereligiousworshipoftheAthenians,therehasbeenmuchdif ferenceofopinionamongscholarsastothepurposeandsignificanceof theParthenon.ThegreaterPanathen«a,afestivalcelebratedbytheentire populationwithgamesandchariotraces,withmusicalandoratoricaldis plays,onceeveryfouryears,wereinallprobabilitysolemnlyconcluded byaceremonialintheParthenon.Along processionascendedfromthe towntothesanctuaryofitspatrondeityontheAcropolis,wheretherichly- embroidered,saffron-colouredpeplos(itinXoc)wasconsecratedasthe robeoftheancientstatuethe ofGoddess,andwherethevictorsinthe gamesreceivedtheirwreathsoflaurel.ThesplendidParthenonofPerikles wasfirstopenedtothepublicatthePanatheneeanFestivalB.O. of438, anditremainedsacredtothevirgingoddessforoversixcenturies. TheParthenonseemstohavebeenconvertedintoaChristianchurch aboutthe 5thcent,ofourera,andwasconsecratedtotheMotherof God(Bsoto'xoO*Theprincipalentrancewastransferredfromthe E.to theW.endandtheOpisthtidomoswasturnedintoa vestibule(nar- thex),fromwhichonelargeandtwosmalldoorsledtotheprincipal partofthechurch.ThepulpitwaserectedontheN.,andtheepiscopal throneonthe3.sideofthisspace,whilethealtaroccupiedanapse thrownintothePronaos.Thecolumnsintheinteriorwerere-arranged anda galleryaddedforthewomen,whilea barrel-vaultedceiling wasalsointroduced.ThewallswereadornedwithChristianpaint ings,ofwhichsometracesstillremain.In1204the'greatchurchof Athens'*washandedoverbytheFrankstotheRomishchurch.In1460 theParthenonbecamea Turkishmosque,andaminaretwaserected attheS.W.angle.ThenextwehearoftheParthenonisinaletter of1672andina papercommunicatedbythemathematicianVernon in1676totheLondonPhilosophicalTransactions.Thedrawingsmade bytheFrenchartistJacquesCarreyin1674havebeenoftheutmostim portanceinenablingtoform usanideaoftheconditionofthesculptures atthatdate.M.CarreywasinthesuiteoftheFrenchambassadorMar quisdeNointel,whoobtainedtheconsentoftheTurkishgovernorbycostly presents.Thedrawingswere400innumber,embracing32ofthemetopes ontheS.side,almostthewholeofthefriezeattheE.andTV.ends,and agreatpartofthoseontheN.andS.In1675theAcropoliswasvisited 72 Routes. ATHENS. Acropolis. by Messrs.SponandWheler,twoEnglishtravellers,whosepublished accountsexcitedgreatinterestandstillhaveconsiderablevalue,in spiteofmanycurioustheoriesandmisconceptions,asthesegentlemen werethelastnativesofW.Europetoseethegreattemplebefore itsdestruction.In1687theVenetiansunderCountKonigsmark,as therepresentativeofthecommander-in-chiefFrancescoMorosini,seized thetownofAthena.TheTurksentrenchedthemselvesonthe Acropolis andconcealedtheir storeofpowderintheParthenon.Thelatteraccord inglybecamethetargetoftheVenetianartillerymen,andonFriday, Sept.26th,at7 p.m.,aGermanlieutenanthadthedoubtfulhonour offiringthebombwhichignitedthepowderandblewthestatelybuild ingintotheair.Threehundredmenlosttheirlivesintheexplosion, andtheTurkishcommandantcapitulatedthreedayslater.Morosini en deavouredtotakethefigureofPoseidonandthehorsesofAthena's chariottoVenice,butowingtotheawkwardnessofhisworkmenthese sculpturesfelltothegroundandwereshattered.TheVenetiansleft Athensin1688,andtheTurksbuilta smallermosqueamidtheruins. In1761-53aseriesofveryimportantdrawingsandmeasurementsofall theancientmonumentsofAthens,includingtheParthenon,weremade byJamesStuartandNicholasRevett.In1787theFrenchagentFauvel managedtosecurea fewfragmentsoftheParthenonsculpturesforthe Frenchambassador,ComtedeChoiseul-Qoufjier.ButtotheBritishambas sadorLordElginbelongsthediscreditofinstitutingasystematicremoval oftheart-treasuresoftheAcropolis.In1801heprocuredafirmanauthor isinghimtoremove'afewblocksofstonewithinscriptionsandfigures', andwiththeaidofseveralhundredlabourers,underthesuperintendence ofthe painterLusieri,heremovedthegreaterpartofthemetopes,the pediments,andthefrieze.Thepricelesssculpturesandtheirconveyance toEnglandcostabout36,0002.In1816,aftervariousabortivenegotiations, duringwhichthevalueofthesculptureshadbeensetina properlight byCanovaandEnnioQuirinoVisconti,theywerepurchasedbytheBrit ishGovernment;andtheynow,underthenameofthe'ElginMarbles1, formthemostvaluablepossessionoftheBritishMuseum.In1826-27the Parthenonagainsuffered,thoughnotseriously,fromthehazardsofwar. Arestorationoftheentirebuilding,proposedbytheGermanarchitect LeovonKlenze,wasfortunatelynevercarriedintoeffect;onlythreecol umns(•■PrinciplesontheofN.AtheniansidewereArchitecture1)patchedupoutandofKarlbricksBbtticherandmarble.areamongPenrosethe mostnoteworthynamesoftheexpertswhohavebusiedthemselveswith anexaminationoftheParthenon,andtheirinvestigationlaidthebasisfor, thelaboursofAd.Michaetis,uponwhosework(*DerParthenon,Textund Atlas',Leipzig,1870-71)the foregoingaccountisprincipallyfounded.The recentinvestigationsofDbrpfeld^however,havecorrectedstatements the andconclusionsofBotticherinmanyimportantparticulars. Thesmalldoorontheinsidethe ofS.corneroftheW.wallis openedbythecustodianonrequest.Thosewhohaveaperfectlysteady headmayascendthecrumblingstaircasehenceandcrossbyoneofthe beamstothespaceinfrontofthepediment,wherethefriezemaybe convenientlyexaminedandasplendidviewofthePirfeusobtained. Near theN.marginoftheplateauoftheAcropolis,notlike theParthenonon anelevatedterracehutin aslightdepression, liesthe**Erechtheion('Epd/ftetov,Erechtheum),onthesiteofthe ancienttempleofErechtheus, whichcontainedtheshrinesof AthenaPolias,orAthenatheguardianofthecity,andseveralother deities.ItoccupiesthesacredspotonwhichAthenaPoseidon and decidedtheirstrifeforthepossessionofAthens.Thegnarled olive-tree, whichtheGoddesscalledforth, andtheimpression madebythetridentofPoseidoninproducingaspringofsaltwa ter,were bothshowntothereverentworshippersintheancient Erechtheion. ATHENS. 8.Boute."73 fane.WhenthetemplewasburneddownbythePersiansinB.C. 480,theolive-treealsowasdestroyed; butwithintwodaysfrom thiscatastropheithad putforthanewshoot,anellinlength. Therebuildingofthesanctuarymusthavebeenbegunsoonafter thedepartureofthePersians.Curiouslyenough,however,noan cientwritermentionsthefact, andwearelefttoinferfromthe refinedandunrivalledeleganceofthebuildingthatitmusthave beenatleastbegunintheeraofPerikles.Fromsomeinscrip tionsrelatingtotheaccountsofthebuildersanddatingfromthe secondhalfofthePeloponnesianWar,welearnthattheworkof rebuildinghadtobesuspendedinthe troubloustimesof413-411 andwasnotcompletedtill407.Inreligiouscharacteraswell asinarchitecturetheErechtheionwasexclusivelyanIonicshrine, anditspriestessrefusedadmissiontoKleomenes,theDoricking ofSparta.Theoriginalexternalformofthetempleisstilltobe tracedinthepresentruins,butthearrangementsoftheinterior, whichhasundergonenumerousvicissitudes,servingatonetime asaChristianchurchandatanotherastheharemof aTurkish pasha,cannotnowbedeterminedwithexactitude. A glanceattheground-plan(seePlanoftheAcropolis,p.67) showsa completedivergencefromtheordinaryformofGrecian temples.InsteadoftheusualporticoattheW.end,wefindtwo lateralvestibulesorwings,formingakindoftransept.Themain oroblongportion,So1/^ft.longand37ft.wide,stands,asseenfrom theS.andE.,onaKrepisor'basementofthreesteps.Thesteps are10in.highand13in.wide; thewallsandbasesofthecol umnsapproachalmosttotheedgeoftheuppermoststep.Three vestibules(upoataaa;),ontheE.,N.,andS.,eacha gemofar chitectureandexhibitingthemostpleasingvarietyofstyle,form theentrancestothetemple.TheupperpartoftheN.andS.walls wasrestoredin1838withthestonesoftheancientbuilding. The. E PorticoisaprostyleofthesimplestformwithsixIonic columns,ofwhichthenorthernmostwascarriedoffbyLordEl gin.Thecolumnsare22ft.high,includingthecapitals,whichare nearly2ft.inheight;thebase,nearlyinches 11 high,consistsof twosemicircularmouldings(Tori)separatedbyaTrochilos(Scotia), orhollow moulding,theTorusSuperiorbeingprovidedwithfour horizontalflntings.Theshaft,whichis2Y-2ft.indiameter,has, asusualintheIonicorder,24flutesseparatedbynarrowfillets. Thecapitalisofunusualrichness.Theneckconsistsabeaded of mouldinganda friezeofpalmettes,abovewhichareaneggand tonguemouldinganda plainband,supportingtheechinusorcen tralcushionofthecapital,whichisadornedwithflutesandbeads. ThespiralCanalisofthestronglymarkedvolutesisdouble.A narrowabacus,enrichedwithaneggandtonguemoulding,effects thetransitiontothearchitrave,which,asinallIonic buildings, consistsofthreemembersandisfinishedoffwithaLesbiankyma 74 Route8. ATHENS. Acropolis. tionandacornicebelowthefrieze.Onlya fewfragmentsofthe frieze,whichconsistedofEleusinianstone,harebeenfound; and scarcelyatraceofthesculpturesinwhitemarblewithwhichitwas adorned(seep.80)hasbeenleft. ThechamberenteredfromtheE.porticowasthespecialSanc tuaryofAthenaPolias.Itcontainedaveryancientfigureofthe Goddessinolive-wood(J-itavov),whichwassaidtohavefallen fromheaven,andaperpetuallyburninglightinagoldenlamp madebyKallimachos.Atadistanceofabout23ft.fromtheen trance,thisdivisionofthetempleseemstohavebeenclosedbya transversewall,evidenttracesofwhichmaybeseenontheN. side.BehindthetransversewalllaythehouseofErechtheus,or theErechtheionproper,andbehindthisagainwastheProstomiaeon, asmallchambertowhichtherewereapproachesfromtheN.and S.porticos.Thelatterapparentlyoweditsnametoitssituation infrontoftheStomion,ormiraculouswellinwhichthesoundof wavescould,itissaid,beheardwhentheS.windblew.Here stoodthealtarsofPoseidon,HephsestosandtheAtticheroButes. Themainbuildingwascoveredwithaslopinggable-roof. A broadflightof12steps,inpartreplacedbyamodernstair case,descendedbetweentheE.porticoandthewalloftheAcropolis totherockyplateau,about10ft.lower,onwhichtheN.Portico wasbuilt.ThisalsoconsistedofsixIoniccolumns,fouronthe frontandone oneachside; thethreeontheW.sidewerere-erect edin1838.Thecolumnsaresomewhatlargerthanthoseofthe E.frontandshowastillgreaterabundanceofornamentalcarving, particularlyinthebases,wheretheuppertorusisentirelycov eredwithaplaitedornament.Theceiling,agreatpartofwhich wasdestroyedduringtheTurkishsiegein1825.wascomposedof sunkpanels.Theholesinthelatter,manyofwhichnowlieon theground,seemtohavebeenmadefornailsfasteningbronze- giltstarsorotherornaments.Thebeautifulandwell-preserved doorwayleadingfromthisporticototheinteriorhasbeenfre quentlyimitatedinmodernbuildings.Thefissureintherocky groundwasperhapsthatshownbythepriestsasthemarkofPo seidon'strident.—TowardstheW.theporticoprojectsa little beyondthemainpartofthetemple,andaside-dooropensonthe platforminfrontoftheW.facade.This,aswegatherfromthe scantyremainsandfromthedrawingsmadeby JamesStuartin 1751-53(p.72)wasarticulatedbyfourengagedcolumns,rest inguponaparapetofconsiderableheight,withthreerectangular windowsordoorsintheintercolumniations.Belowtheparapet, alittletotherightofthecentre,isasmalldoorway,theperfect plainnessofwhichseemstoindicatethatitwasoriginallyconcealed fromview.Asthesteppedsubstructureofthetemplebetween thispointandtheS.W.corneristotallywanting,itisnotim probablethatthiswasthesiteofthePandroseion, ortempleof Erechtheion. ATHENS. 8.Route.75 Pandrosos,daughterofKekrops,mentionedinPausanias'saccount oftheAcropolis. Thecelebrated**PorticooftheCaryatides, ontheS., isoneof themostcharmingcreationsofAtticart.Theroofisheresup ported,notbycolumns,butbysixfiguresofmaidens,somewhat largerthanlife,standingonaparapet8'/2ft.high.Vitruviusde rivesthenameCaryatides,-whichisa comparativelylatecoinage, fromthecityofCaryae(Karyse)in Arcadia,thewomenofwhichwere ledintocaptivityonaccountofitsesponsalofthePersiancause. ButtheearlierAtheniantermforsuchfigureswassimplyK6pocior 'maidens',andthenamePorticooftheMaidensisoncemorecoming intovogueasanalternativetitle.Thefiguresareofanelevated andvigorousbeauty,fullofthespiritofyouthfulgraceandvitality, whichisadmirablysetoffbytheharmoniousandsimplecling ingfoldsoftheirdraperies.Thepowerfulandwell-builtmaidens seemtoperformtheirtaskofsupportingtheentablaturewiththe greatestease,andthegeneraleffectisoneofextremelightnessand satisfaction.ThesecondCaryatidfromtheW.endisarepro ductioninterracottaofoneremovedbyLordElgin,andthehinder oneontheE.sidewasrestoredbyImhof.Itisnowimpossibleto determinewhetherornotthefiguresheldgarlandsorotherobjects intheirhands.Ontheirheadstheybearbasket-likeornaments, whichformakindofDoric-Ioniccapital.Thearchitraveconsists ofthreemembers,andaboveitprojectsa rectangularmoulding adornedwithdentils,small ortooth-likeblocks(Oeisipodes).The flatroof consistedlong ofslabs fourofunequalwidth,threeof whicharestillintheirplaces,whileonehasfallentotheground. —ThereisasmalldoorwayontheE.sideofthe'porchofthe maidens'andasmallflightofstepsdescendedintheinteriorto thenarrowW.divisionofthemaintemple. Investigatorsarenotagreedastotheexactpartofthetemplein whichgrewtheolive-treeplantedby Athenaherself.Norisitpossible todeterminethesiteofthegravesofKekropsandErechtheus,orthe lairofthesacredsnakewhichwasmaintainedhereasanattributeof theGoddess.TheTemenos,orsacredenclosurearoundthetemple,prob ablycontainedthedwellingsoftheArrhephorae,orpriestesses,andthe openspaceusedby theminball-playing(a9bronzes,andmarble sculptureswerealsofoundhere. Theancientfoundation-wallsnowcoveredbyanannexeofthe museumhavehithertobeengenerallydescribedasbelongingto theChalkotheka,orreceptacleforbrazenutensils.Thisname, however,moreprobablybelongstotheremainslatelyfoundto theS.W.oftheParthenon,nearthewallofthecitadel. AttheS.E. angleofthe Acropolisisa considerableportionof themassiveWallofKimon,exposeddowntoitsfoundationinthe Tock.ThegroupsofstatueserectedontheAcropolisbyKingAttalos ofPergamon,tocommemoratehisvictoryovertheinvadingCeltsin B.C. 229,stoodhereonsomehithertounidentifiedspot,abovethe TheatreofDionysos,ofwhichwehere obtainanexcellentview. A fragmentofthePblatgianWall(p.57)hasbeendiscoveredinfront oftheE.sideofthemuseum-annexeandhasbeentracedasfarasthe S.W.angleoftheParthenon.Mostofit,however,isagainburiedin rubbish. A BelvedebbattheN.endoftheE.walloftheAcropolis commandsthebestviewofthemoderntownanditsmonuments. Museum. ATHENS. 8.Route.77 To theS.E.standthecolumnsoftheOlympieion,withMt.Hymetios inthebackground;alittlenearerusistheArchofHadrian; immediately infrontistheMonumentofLysikrates,beyondwhicharethePalace andthe PalaceGarden,and,fartheron,theLykabettosandthegable likePentelikon;inthetown,alittletotheleft,shine the dazzlingmarble buildingsoftheAcademyandUniversity,withtheroadtoPatisiapassing totheN.ofthem;moretotheleftrisestheloftyMetropolitanChurch, withtheSmallMetropolitanChurchnestlingbesideit;ontheN.slopeof theAcropolisistheToweroftheWinds;adjacent,Bazaar theandthe StoaofHadrian;totheW.,theTheseion,backedbytheolive-woodsof theKephisos,abovewhichriseMt.ParnesanditsspurjEgaleos;through adepressionofthelatter,beyondaroundedhill, runsthesacred1road toEleusis,withtheconventofDaphni. In the'AcropolisMuseumthesculpturedremainsfoundonthe Acropolishavebeenshownsince1878.Theexcavationscarriedon between1880and1890havefurnisheditwithsomanyandsuch valuablespecimens, throwingahithertoundreamedoflightupon theearlierart-epochs, thatitscollectionsarequiteunique.Hours ofadm.,seep.37.CatalogueinFrench,attheentrance(1dr.201.). Oppositetheentrance,inashed,areseverallargefragmentsandin scriptions,includingarichly-ornamentedMarbleChairandaDrapedStatue ofaGoddess,withaboyclingingtoherknee(GeKurotrophos?). Fromthevestibule,whichcontainsworksofvarious epochs, visitorsareshownbytheattendantsintotheroomontheleft,beyond whichtheotherroomsaresoarrangedastoillustratethegradual developmentofartfromitsearlieststagestoitszenith. Vestibule.Straightinfront:1325.Halfofanunfinishedstatue ofHermes(?);beneath,1326.MarbleBase,withareliefrepresenting an'Apobates'(dizo^aTf]i),orwarriorwhofightsfromachariot,rap idlydismountingandremountingasitrollsalong;1327.Base withreliefsofDancers.—Totheright,1334.Lowerhalfa offinely executedrelief,perhapsofHermes,foundnearthePropylffia; 1335. ArchitecturalfragmentfromtheErechtheion, offineexecution; 1336,1337.TorsosofAthena;1338.Base withPyrrhicDancers; 1332.Beliefofamanholdingvasesinhislefthand(votiveoffering of apotter); 1333.Longinscription,witharelief,referringtothe relationsbetweenAthensSamos, andthesetownsbeingrepresented byAthenaandHera.—Totheleft:1341.Fragmentsofantique reliefs,representingtheCharites(Graces; p.64),worshippedatthe entrancetothecitadel;*1342.CelebratedreliefofaWomanentering aChariot;1347.Colossalowl,marble. in I. BoomoptheBull(aTSouaaxaypou).Straightfront: in *3.Groupoftwolions(scantyremains)attackingaBull,ofPoros stone;above,inaframe,*1.ArchaicpedimentrepresentingHercules fightingwiththeLernean Hydra,withIolaosashischarioteer (intheleftcornerisalargecrab),withnumeroustracesoftheori ginalcolouring.Onthewalltotheright, correspondingtothis pediment,2.FragmentofanotherpedimentwithHerculesfighting withTriton.BoththesepedimentsareofPorosstone;andinfront oftheotherwallsandina caseareotherfragmentsin thesame 78 RouteS. ATHENS. Acropolis. material (lampsforseveralwicks,inthecase).Inthecaseinfront ofthehullarevases,images,etc.fromMycenaeandelsewhere. II.RoomoftheTrifle-bodiedMonster(a?9ouaaTpisojpiaTou xepaTOc).Totheright, infrontofthewall, inaglass-case: *35. Monster,probablyTyphon,overcomebyZeus,withthreehuman headsandbodies,springingfromatrunkformedofserpents'coils. Portionsoftheserpent-bodyintwoothercases.Totheleft:*36. HerculesfightingwithTriton.Onasupportprojectingfromthe wall:Architecturalfragments.AlltheseareofPorosstone, and showabundanttracespainting. of III.BoomoftheImagesandVases(aWouoaeiomXtoivxoci iffeirov).Ontheentrance-walls: *67.Paintedterracottaslab, re presentingawarrioradvancingtobattle,hisshieldbearingthe figure ofasatyrj thehighantiquityofthisslab,whichdatesfromthelate 6thorearly5thcent.B.C., givesitespecialimportanceinthe historyofpainting.Terracotta 68. fragments,withreliefs.—In thewall-casesareimagesofdivinitiesworshippedontheAcropolis, somewithpaintinginadmirablepreservation. IV. RoomoftheMarblesandVases(a?9ooaa(jujcppiapajvxai aYfeiaJv).Ontheentrance-walls:120,121.Fragmentsofreliefs representingAthenafighting; 122.Headofananimal(bear?).In thewall-cases,lessimportantmarblefragments.Totherightare thepediment-figuresfromtheoldTempleofAthena,recently formedintoagroup: inthemiddleAthenabearsa gianttothe ground; totherightandleftarekneelingandstoopinggiants,ina stateofviolentmotion. V.RoomoftheCalf-Bearer(a?9ouoapioo^otpopou).Onthe entrancewalls: 577.ReliefofAthenastretchingherhandtoaman enthronedinfrontofher;578-680.Archaichorses'heads;581. Worshippersbringingaswineas asacrificetoAthena.—Tothe right:*625. Celebratedfigureofyouth a carryingacalf(probably tothealtar),onaPorosbasewithinscriptioninancientletters. Also,590.EquestrianStatue;592.BoundBase withfive(ori ginallysix)femalefigures;593, 619.FemaleStatues; 694.Archaic DrapedStatueofaWoman(belongingtothenextroom);697. Hippalektryon,amixtureofacockandahorse,witharider,much mutilated;606.MountedScythianorThracian;610.Quadrilateral BasewithreliefsofZeuswiththesceptre,Athenawiththehelmet, Hephaestoswiththehammer,andHermeswiththewingedsandals; 625.AntiqueSeatedFigureofAthena(headless),frequentlyattri butedtoEndoios;629.Seatedstatuetteof&writer;630, 632. Sphinxes;633.MaleTorso,perhapsofapriest,inthestyleofthe femalefiguresinthenextroom; 665.NudeMaleTorso.Inaglass- ease,Headsandotherportionsofstatuettes. VI. LargeArchaicRoom(p^yo^T)ap%ai%\atSrouaa).The *ArchaicBust3,Torsos,andStatues(Nos.670-682)placedround thisroomwerenearlyallfoundtotheWoftheErechtheion,near Museum. ATHENS. 8. Haute.79 the. N walloftheAcropolis,intheaccumulationofrubbishthat datesfromsoonafterthePersianwars.NexttotheParthenon friezetheyarethechieftreasureofthemuseum;noothermu seumhasanycollectionofthekindapproachingto this.Thesta tues,whichshowconsiderabletracesofpainting,seemtore presentpriestessesofthegoddessofthecitadelreveredinthe ErechtheionandtheHekatompedon.Mostofthemareadmirably preserved,andtheyareespeciallyvaluablefortheopportunitythey affordofstudyingancientdrapery.Inspiteofthetypicalandsome whatvacantexpressionofmostofthefaces,amorecarefulexamin ationnot onlyclearlyrevealsavariationinindividualcharacter butalsoprovesthattheydatefromdifferentperiods.Themost prominentstatue681), (No.onaloftypedestal,isascribedbythe dedicatoryinscriptionontheplinthtoAntenor,thesculptor of the groupofthetyrannicidesHarmodiosAristogeiton, and whichwas carriedofftoPersiaby XerxesandbroughtbackbyAlexanderor Antiochos. VII.RoomoptheEphebos(afftouea£tpf](3ou).Inthecentre, underglass: *689.Headofa Youth,distinguishedalikeforits beautyanditsexcellentpreservation,andrecallingtheheadofthe ApollofromtheW.pedimentofthetempleofZeusatOlympia.— 690,691, 693,694.TorsosofNike;692,698.StatuettesofYouths, apparentlycommemoratingvictories;696. ReliefofaseatedAthena, leaningonaspear;aninscribedsteleappearstostandinfrontof her; 697,Life-like 700.fragmentsofflorae a andofa.Rider;701. AntiquegrotesqueGorgoneion; 702.TastefulantiquereliefofHer mesandThreeWomen,oneofwhomholdsachildbythehand.— Ontheupperpartofthe wallsareMetopesfromtheParthenon. Amongthefeworiginalsisa groupof aCentaurcarryingoffa womanoftheLapithae.Fragmentsofvariouskindsonstands. VIII.ParthenonRoom(aWtouaaIlap&evujvoc).Sculpturesfrom theParthenon.Statuesofthepedimentandreliefsofthefrieze, withcastsofthosein theBritishMuseum.Totherightofthedoor way,onalowplatformrunningfromendtoendoftheroom,are theremainsoftheE.pediment(p.69);theonlyoriginalshere aretwotorsos:880.Hephaestos,representedasintheactofwith drawinghishandfromthefatefulblowinflictedontheheadof Zeus;881.Selene.Onaprojectionabovearetheremainsof the W.pediment(886.TorsoofPoseidon,inthemiddle).Amongthe casts:881y~&4-Theriver-godIlissos,above,Kephisos,tothe rightofIlissos, Nike, Demeter,andPersephone(?), thethree Moirae(Fates). Themutilatedconditionofthese sculpturesinterferes sadly withadueappreciationofthem.The**Frieze,however,ofwhich 22slabsandseveralfragments(inall84ft.)arehereintheori ginal,isinmuchbetterpreservation.Thefirstgroup(bythewin dow-walltotheright)comprisesthreegods,Aphrodite(?),Apollo, 80 Route8. ATHENS.SmallMetropolis. andPoseidon,fromtheE.facade; below,857.ThreeYouthswith twoSacrificialCows;farthertotheright,877.FourWomen,with goldorsilverVessels,and875.ThreeMenwithMusicalInstru ments.Onthisandtheoppositesidearealsoreliefsrepresenting theProcessionofHorsemenandCarriages,including:861-863, 866-870.Riders;872.Helmetedwarriorsmountingachariot;874. Youthstrugglingwitharearinghorseinachariot;totheleftof theentrance: 852.Youthwithsacrificialsheep. IX. NikeRoom(aiftousaNtxTj?).Totherightthefamousre liefsfromtheNikeBalustrade(p.61);the inmiddleofthefront row,*Nikefasteninghersandal.Totheleftarefragments (Nos. 1071-78)the fromFriezeoftheErechtheion,amongstwhichare twoseatedgoddesseswithchildren. Xs i emptyatpresent.

c.FromthePalacethroughthetowntotheTheseion.Dipylon. HilloftheNymphs.Pnyx.MonumentofPhilopappos. TheupperorE.endoftheR«ed'Hermes(oooc'Epp-oO; PI. E,D,C,5),whichleadstotheW.fromthePlacedelaConstitu tion,isthefocusthe ofbusinesslifeofAthens,andcontainsthe varioushookandothershopsmentionedat p.35. Ontheleft,No.89,risestheOfficeoftheMinisterofEduca tion('TTtoupYetovTTjcIlaiSda?;PI.E,5),whichalsocontainsthe officeofJlf.Kavvadias,theephororsuperintendentoftheantiqui ties,whoissuesthepermessiforvisitingthe Acropolisbynight. AfewpacestotheS.oftheRued'HermesrisestheMetro politanChurch([(jLT^TpoTtoXts; PI.E,5),erectedin1840-55,under thedirectionofdifferentarchitects,withthematerialsof70small churchesandchapels,demolishedinpursuanceofadecreeof1840. TheexterioriscolouredredandyellowinimitationofSt.Sophia atConstantinople, andtheinteriorissumptuous, butdestitute oftaste.—TotheS.liesthe— *SmallMetropolisorChurchofthePanagfaQorgopiko(Top- YOEtttjuo'j?)or ofHagiosEleuthertos,aninterestingbuilding,attri butedtotheEmpressIrene(775-802)andconstructedentirelyof ancientfragments.Thefriezeabovetheprincipalentrancecon sistsofanancientGreekcalendaroffestivals,withcrossesadded afterwardsbytheChristians.AtthecornersareembeddedCor inthiancapitals.OvertheS.doorisafragmentofaDorioarchi trave,withbulls'headsandrosettesonthemetopes,andcrossed torchesandvasesinfrontofthetriglyphs.Abovetheapse,on eachside,areancientreliefswithsacrificialscenes; ontheapse itselfisanarchaicreliefimmuredupsidedown.OntheN.side Stoaf o Hadrian. ATHENS. 8.Route.81 are m autilatedrepresentationofapalestres(wrestler)andatomb- relief.Thefiat,uncouthrepresentationsofanimalsareofByzant ineworkmanship. Beside thechurchispreserveda blockofgreymarble(7ft.long, 1ft.high,2ft.broad),withaninscriptionononeendinlateGreekchar acters('ThisisthestonefromCanaof Galilee,whereJesusChristour Lordturnedthewaterinto wine').Thisstone,whichwasdiscoveredin theruinsofamedisevalchapelatElateia,maypossiblybethe actual stone-seatseenbyAntoninusofPiacenzaatCana,andmayhave been broughtfromtheEastsome by pilgrimorByzantineemperor.Itwas usedasthealtaratthemarriageoftheCrown-PrinceConstantinowith PrincessSophiaofPrussiain1889. IntheRued'Hermes,halfwaytothePiraeus railway-station,is thechurchofKapnikarjEA(PI.D,5),acomplicatedByzantine structureofthe9th(?)century.Itstandsthe inmiddleofthe street,whichjustbeyondintersectstheRued'£ole. The Rubd'Eole(iEolosStreet,656sAioXou; PI.D,3,4, 5,6) isthesecondstreetoftheoldtown,andusuallypresentsascene ofgreatbustleandanimation,especiallyintheneighourhoodof itsintersectionwiththeRued'Hermes.Itislargelyfrequented by Greeksintheirnationaldress,manyofthem handsomeand well-builtmen.AscendingittowardstheS.,in thedirectionof the Acropolis,wepassontherightasquarewithamodemfoun tainandreachtheoldBazaar(PI.D,5).Herestandorsitthe tailors,cobblers,carpenters,andsmiths,inopenboothsonboth sidesoftheway,protectedfromthesunbyacanvasroof.Thered boots(T^apou^ict)and'fustanelle',sogenerallyworn,aresoldhere atmoderateprices. The boothsofthebazaaradjointheN.sideoftheGymnasium ofHadrian,ahugeancientbuilding(N.toS.270ft.;E.toW. 400ft.),thebackofwhichisin theRued'Eole.Awoodendoor leadsintotheinterior,whichformerlycontainedcolonnades,a library,severalsmalltemples,etc.OntheW.side,originallythe principalfacade(reachedfromwithout),theN.halfofacolon nade,usuallyknownastheStoaofHadrian(PI.D,5),hasbeen preserved.Themarblewallisadornedwithsevenmonolithic columnsofKarystosmarble,281/4ft.highand3ft.thick,with floridCorinthiancapitalsofPentelicmarble.Eachcolumnstands uponabaseofitsownandissurmountedbyahorizontalentabla ture.Theeighth,flutedcolumn,standingfarinfrontoftheothers, andthewallwithantaeadjoiningit,formedpartofapropylaeon, orportico,four ofcolumns,whichledtotheprincipalgate.During theTurkishdominiontheVoivodeofAthensfixedhisdwelling here.TheremainsoftheStoaweremuchmoreconsiderableatthe timeofthevisitofJamesStuart(p.cxi;middleofthe18thcent.) thantheyarenow.—StoaAttalos, of seep.83. AttheS.endoftheRued'Eolestandsawell-preservedoctag onalstructureofmarble,popularlycalledtheToweroftheWinds (PI.D,6),hutmorecorrectlytheHorologionofAndronikos Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 6 82 Route8. ATHENS.TowerofWinds. Kyrrhestes(keeper20-301.).Itwasbuiltinthelastcentury before the ChristianerabyAndronikosofKyrrhos,atowninSyria,and accommodatedawater-clock,asun-dial,andaweather-cock.The buildingis26ft.indiameterand42ft.inheight,includingthe basement.OntheN.E.andN.W.faceswereporticos,eachsup portedbytwoCorinthiancolumns,thecapitalsofwhich,ofvery simpleform,lieonthegroundcloseby.Theeightsidesofthe structureareturnedtowardsthedifferentpointsofthecompass, andareadornedwithinartisticreliefsrepresentingthevarious winds,thenamesofwhichareindicatedbyinscriptions.Onthe N.isBoreas,across-lookingoldmaninheavy a cloak; N.E.,Kae- Mas,anoldmanshakinghailstonesoutof a shield; E.,Apeliotes, ayoungmanwithearsofcornandfruit;S.E.,Euros,anoldman envelopedinamantleagainstrain;S.,Notos,therain-bringer,a youngmanwithalargewater-vessel; S.W.,Lips,representedwith partofa shipinhishand,perhapsbecausethiswindwasfavour ableforvesselsenteringthePiraeus; W.,Zephyr,ahandsomeyouth, withspring-flowersdroppingfromthefoldsofhisgarment;N.W., Skiron,withavase.Belowthereliefsarelinesofsun-dials.The roofisintheformof alowoctagonalpyramidandconsists of Blabsofmarbleheldtogetherbyaroundkeystone; itwasori ginallysurmountedbyabronzeTriton,whopointedwithhisstaff tothequarterwhencethewindblew.Thesemicircularstructureon theS.sidecontainedacistern,suppliedbyacovered aqueduct, partofwhichisstillstanding.Thewater-clock,ofwhichtraces arevisibleonthegroundintheinterior,wasfedfromthiscistern, but anexactideaofitsworkingisnowunattainable. The twoancientarchestotheS.oftheToweroftheWinds, andtheremainsof a thirdtotheE.,belongtothebuildingswith whichthisspacewascoveredinthetimeoftheRomanemperors. Atthebaseofthelast-mentionedarchrunsthecoveredchannel forsupplyingthewater-clock. ThelanesascendingtotheS.oftheToweroftheWindsdebouch ona footpathskirtingtheN.slopeoftheAcropolis$ theentranceto thelatterisreachedin10min.byfollowingpath thetowardstheright (comp.p.58). ThestreetstrikingE.fromtheTowerof theWindsleadstoade pressionenclosedbya wallbesidewhichissnpposedtohavebeena gymnasiumfromthenumerousportrait-heads(p.i03)andinscriptions foundhere.InscriptionsnamingDiogenesasthefounderofthe establish menthaveledtoitsbeingtakenfortheDiogeneion,aninstitutionof thiskindfoundedinthe3rdcent.B.C. To theW.oftheToweroftheWindsa largepavedspacesur roundedwithcolonnadesandapartmentswaspartlylaidbareby theArchaeologicalSocietyin1891.Thishasbeenrecognizedasa RomanMarketPlace, anewmarketincontrastwiththeoldmar kettotheE. of theTheseion(p.86).Theso-calledMarketGate (ttuXtjTfjcAfopai; PI.C,6)formeditsW.entrance.Fourslen derDoriccolumns,26ft.highand4ft.indiameter,stillsupport Stoaf Attalos. o ATHENS. 8.Route.83 amassivearchitrave,withtriglyphsandmetopes,andgreatpart of a pediment.Theinscriptiononthearchitraverecordsthe that Athenianserectedanddedicatedstructure thetoAthenaArche- getiswiththedonationsofJuliusCaesarandAugustus(2e(iaaT<5i). Thecentralpassage,destinedforcarriages,is1174ft.wide;those forfoot-passengersatthesidesareonly43/4ft.wide.Behindthe columns,whichformedakindofpropylseon,lay thewallcon tainingthegatewayproper; oneoftheantsofthisisstillvisible oppositethecolumnattheS.corner,withwhichit isconnected bythearchitrave,andthereisanotherfragmentina linewith oneofthecentralcolumns.Ontheinnerfaceofthiswall,with itsloweredgesecurelyfastenedintheground,standsalongtablet withaninscriptionofthetimeofHadrian,relatingtothemar ket-priceofoilandsalt. About 250pacestotheW.ofthisgatewayliestheruinwhich wasformerlycalledtheGymnasiumofPtolemyandnowtheStoa ofAttalos(excavatedin1860-62and1874).Wefollowthe686; IloixlXifjstothe686cEto&v,whereaviewoftheS.partofthe ruinisobtainedtotheright,andthendescendthelatterstreet, whichleadsfromtheAcropolis,towardstheN.Thesecondlane ontherightthenleads,formingtwoabruptangles,tothegateof theN.partoftheStoa,wherethekeeperistobefound(Y2dr.). The StoaofAttalos(PI.C,5,6), built,the asinscriptionon thearchitraverecords,byAttalosII.,KingofPergamon(B.C. 159-138),formedpartoftheE.boundaryoftheKerameikosMarket. Itwasalarge,two-storiedmerchants'hall,probablyerectedto replacesomeoftheoriginalmarket-stalls.Thegroundfloorwas occupiedbyaseriesof21 coveredrooms,15-16ft.indepthand varyinginbreadth, infrontofwhichranalongcolonnade.The stalls,tojudgebyanalogywithmodernbazaars,wereprobably setupinthelatter,whiletheroomsatthebackwereusedasware housesandforthesafecustodyofthegoodsatnight.Thebest generalsurveyofthearrangementsisobtainedintheS.partof theruin,whichisseparatedfromthe N.halfbyasmalllane.As thegroundhereformerlyslopedabruptlyfromE.toW.,we descendfromthestreetinto asa cellar.Oppositetousarethree restoreddoors,leadingintotheabove-mentionedware-rooms.To therightisawallofPentelicmarble,whichformedtheS.endof thecolonnade.Fromthescantyremainsfoundduringtheexca vations,ithasbeenconcludedthatthecolonnadewassupportedby anouterrowof44Doriccolumnsandaninnerrowof22Ioniccol umns. Thedistancebetweenthetworowswasabout20ft., sothat theroofwasprobablyofwood.Thegroundiscoveredwithfragments ofmarblesculpturesandinscriptions,andalmostnotraceof the positionofthecolumnscannowbemadeout.Inthewallwiththe antatotherightisadoor,beyondwhich,totheleft,aresomesigns ofastaircaseascendingtotheupperstory.TheentireStoawas 6* 84 Route8. ATHENS. Theseion. 367-370ft.longand64ft.deep.Atasubsequentperioditwas concealedbythefortifiedWallofValerian(p.45),agreatpartof ■whichisstillpreserved.IntheN.partoftheStoaaretheremains ofanancientwell-house(Krene). Wenowreturntothe6So;Ztotovanddescendittowardsthe N.Attheendweturntotheleftintothe656?Eirowjjicnv,and after60pacesreachanexcavationontheleftsimilartothatofthe StoaofAttalos.Theancientbuildingthatoriginallystoodherewas probablyafterwardsconvertedtootheruses; forthethreeAtlantes, ormalefiguresfulfillingthesameofficeastheCaryatides(p.75), whichhavegivenrisetothepopularnameoftheruin,Stoaofthe GianU(PI.0;C,5),arewellexecutedandcertainlydatefrom anearlierperiodthantherudesubstructure,patchedtogetherwith stonesofeverysortandshape. A littlefarthertotheW.risestheKolonosAgoraeos,orHillof theMarket,adjoinedontheN.andE.bythequarterofthecity calledKerameikos(p. 5).Herestandsthe**Theseion(8T)aeiov, Theseum;PI.B,5),whichisthebestpreservededificenot only ofancientAthensbutofthewholeofancient Greece.Theruins oftheParthenonindicateabuildingofmuchgreatermagnificence, theErechtheionandtheTempleofNikemaybemoreelegantand moreelaboratelyornamented,theimpression but producedby theTheseionisfullyasimposing.Thisisowingtothemassive solidityofitsconstruction,thevigorousvitalityofitssculptures, thegolden-yellowhueofitsweather-stainedPentelicmarble, andlastlyitsalmostperfectpreservationafterbravingthestorms oftwothousandyears.ThenameofTheseionasappliedtothis buildingwasunanimouslyaccepted, untilRossdisputedthe ageofthetraditionthatassignedthetempletoTheseus,andsug gestedAreaasanotunworthysuccessorthedispossessed of hero. Sincehisdaymanyotherhypotheseshave beenadvanced,and thefanehasinturnbeenassignedtoHerculesalone, toHercules andTheseustogether,and(withmoreprobability)toHephaestos andAthena.Opinionsalsovarygreatlyastothestyleandage ofthesculptureswithwhichthebuildingisadorned; someauthor itiesassignthemtothe periodimmediatelybeforethesculptures oftheParthenon, whileothersarejustaspositivethattheyare oflaterdateandwereexecutedunderthe influenceofthelatter. Duringthemiddleagesthetemplewasconvertedintoachurch anddedicatedtoSt.George. The temple,whichisaperipteralhexastyleinantis,stands uponamarblestylobate, raisedtwostepsfromtheground, and nowin partverydilapidated.Thebuildingis104ft.longand 451/2ft-wide.Atthesides(E.andW.)are13,andattheends 6 Doriccolumns,thecorner-columnsbeingreckonedtwice.The columnsare19ft.inheight,includingacapitalIV4ft-high,and varyindiameterfrom3ft.5in.atthebaseto2ft.7in.atthe Theseion. ATHENS. 8.RotUe.85 top ; theyarethussomewhatmoreslenderthanthoseoftheParthe non.Theswellingorentasisisveryslight;thedepthoftheflutes, 20innumber,decreasestowardsthetop.Theintercolumniation is54/4ft.,atthecornersft.AsintheParthenon,thecolumns leanslightlyinwardstocounteracttheoutwardthrustthe ofroof. Ahovethearchitrave, whichisundivided, runsaDoricfriezeof triglyphsandmetopes,encirclingthewholebuilding.Themetopes, however,areadornedwithsculptureonlyontheE.frontandthe immediatelyadjoiningfieldsoneachflank.Abovethefriezethe buildingisfinishedoffwiththeusualcorniceandpediment.Many of thedrumsofthecolumnshavebeendislodgedbyearthquakes. Thecellais40ft.inlengthand20ft.inbreadth, andateach endofitisavestibuleformedbytheprolongationoftheside- wallsandbytwocolumns,173/4ft.highand3y4ft.thick.These columnswereprobablyconnectedwitheachotherandwiththe antaebyirongrillesorrailings.TheE.vestibule,orPronaos,iB markedoutasthe principalfrontbyitssuperiordepth(16*/2f'0> bytherichnessoftheexternalsculptures,andbythegreaterspace betweenitandtheouterrowofcolumns(13ft.,ascomparedwith 10ft.attheW.end).OntheconversionoftheTheseionintoa Christianchurch,thetwocolumnsandtheback-wallofthePronaos wereremovedtomakeroomfortheapse;anda modernwall, piercedbyawoodendoor,nowoccupiesthesiteoftheformer.The originalcofferedceiling,fragmentsofwhichmaybeseenindiffer entpartsof thebuilding,isstillalmostintactattheE. end.Each divisionoftheceilingbetweentwotransversebeamsconsistsof twosectionswithfour,andtwosectionswithsixlacunarsorsunk compartments(Kalymmatia),sothateachoftheeightdivisionsof theE.endcontainstwentysuchlacunars.Withtheexceptionof adoorwaybrokenintheback-wallbytheChristians,theW. vestibule,orOpinth6domos,retainsitsoriginalaspect. The groupsofstatuesthatoriginallyfilledthepedimentsare entirelylost;onlythemarksoftheirfasteningsnowremain.The reliefsintheMetopesoftheE.frontrepresentthelaboursofHercu- leB,thoughsomearenowalmostindistinguishable.Thescenes, namedfromleftright, to areasfollows:1.Herculesslayingthe Nemeanlion; 2.HerculesandlolaosfightingwiththeLernaBanhy dra; 3.HerculescapturingtheKeryna?anhind; 4.Herculesandthe Erymanthianboar;5.HerculescarryingoffthehorsesofDiomede; 6.HerculesdraggingCerberusfromtheunder-world; 7.Hercules andHippolyta,queenoftheAmazons; 8.HerculesandEurytion; 9.HerculesandGeryon; 10.Herculesreceivestheapplesofthe Hesperides.—Thereliefsonthemetopesoftheside-wallscele bratetheachievementsofTheseus.ThoseontheN.side,from lefttoright,are:1.TheseusslayingProkrustes; 2.Theseusover comingKerkyoninwrestling; 3.TheseusandSkiron(withalarge crabontherockbythesea); 4.TheseusslayingtheKrommyonian 86 Route8. ATHENS. Theseion. sow. ThereliefsontheS.,namedfromrighttoleft,are: 1.The seusandtheMinotaur; 2.TheseuscapturingtheMarathonianbull; 3.TheseusslayingtherobberPeriphetes;4.Theseusandthe robberSinis.■—Theother50metopeswereneveradornedwith reliefs, butitisnotimprobablethattheywerepainted,though everytraceofthecolouringhasnowdisappeared. The wallofthecella,likethatoftheParthenon,isadornedatthe topwithaZophoros,orfrieze,which,however,inthiscase,waslim itedtothetwoendsandtheE.portionoftheflanks.TheE.,and principal,friezeisunfortunatelymuchinjured; it issupposedto representthecontestthe ofAthenianswiththealliedEleusinians andThracians, whichisparticipatedinbythegodsrepresented abovetheantse,Zeus,Hera,andAthenaontheleft,andDemeter, Poseidon,andAresontheright.Theyouthfulherointhecentre, whorepulsestheThracianleaderintheaotofhurlingtwolarge stones,isperhapsIon,theeponymusoftheIonians.Thesceneto theleft,abovetheS.peristyle,representsthefetteringofpri a soner,whilethefiguresabovetheN.peristyleareperhapsthechief officialsof Eleusis.—TheW.frieze,comprising20figures,repre sentsthebattlesofthecombinedLapithseandAthenianswiththe Centaurs.Thewarriorwiththelargecircularshield,inthetwo middlescenes,whohasovercometheCentaur opposedtohim,is probablyTheseus; onhisleftisPerithoos,advancingtotheaid of Kfflueus,whoisonthepointofbeingoverwhelmedtwoCentaurs by withagiganticrock. The Intbbiosofthetempleisshownbythekeeperwholivesinthe smallwoodenhousetotheS.B.(35-501.).Weenterbythemedifeval doorintheS.wall.Theroofismodern.Tracesofthepositionofthe back-wallofthePronaosmaystillbemadeout.Thetemplecontainsa fewplaster-casts. TheMarketPlaceofancientAthens(t)dyopdi\btKepa- pxixo">)occupiedthespacebetweentheTheseionandthegate mentionedat p.82.Thevisitor, however,mustrelyentirelyon hisimagination,assistedbyafewhistoricalandtopographicalno ticesinPausanias,ifhe wishestoformidea anoftheformercon ditionofthisfocusofancientAthenianlife.Notracesnowremain oftheMetroonortempleoftheMotheroftheGods,theBouleu- terionorsenate-house,thePrytaneion(p.39),theKing'sHall(p.57), andtheotherlargeandimportantbuildingswhichoncestoodhere. ThestatuesofPindar,Demosthenes,andothergreatpoetsand oratorshavealsovanished. The Areopagus,seep.56; theHilloftheNymphs,seep.90. To theN.W.oftheTheseionabridgeleadsacrossthePirteus railwaytotheTheseionStation(PI.B,5).Fartheronwereachthe roadtothePiraeus. At theS.W.endofthewideRueduPuree,whichbeginsatthe PlacedelaConcorde(PI.D,2),standsthechapeloftheHagia Trias(PI.A,4),whichisgaudilypaintedinredandyellow.Near Dipylon. ATHENS. 8, Route.87 this chapelpartofaburial-groundwasexcavatedin1862,andin 1870theW.gateoftheancientcityofAthens.Weenterthefield ofexcavationbythegateinthecornerofthesmallsquareadjoining the chapelandfindourselvesoppositetheouterpartofthegate. The Dipylon(PI.B,4),standingatthebeginningoftheroads leadingviaEleusistoMegara(Peloponnesos)andtoPlatsBaeand Thebes(Bceotia),formedtheprincipalentranceofclassicAthens. Itderivesitsname('doublegate')fromthefactthat,unlikeall theothergatesofAthensandthePiraeus,itpossessestwoentrances, anouterandinner,separatedbyaninterveningcourt.Itprobably datesfromthetimeofPerikles,andwaserectedonthesiteofthe oldThriasiangate(i.e.thegateleadingtoThria).Itseems,how ever,tohavebeenalteredat a laterdate.Itsunusuallystrong fortificationswererequiredbyitspositionatthelowestpointof thetown-wall.Theleftpartofthestructurehaswhollydisappeared, thougha fewblocksoftheadjoiningwallarevisibleunderthe modernenclosingwall.TotherighttheS.gate-towerrisestoa considerableheight.Inthemiddle,exactlyoppositethespectator, are tracesofthecentralpierbetweenthetwopassage-ways.Against thisleansa largebaseofEleusinianandwhitemarble.Passing throughtheoutergateway,wereach,40pacesfartheron,asecond gatewayofpreciselythesameplan.Thetowersofthetwogateways wereconnectedbycurtain-walls.Thespacebetweenformeda court orouterward,commandedbythetowersatbothends,andwasthe mostdangerouspartofthefortificationsforabesiegingarmy. PhilipV.ofMacedoniasucceededin forcinghiswayintothis courtinB.C.200,andhadgreatdifficultyinwithdrawingfrom thehornets'nestwhich in hefoundhimself. The widthofeachdoorwaywasll'/s whichleftenough room,thoughnotmuchmore,fortwoancientGreekchariotsto passeachother.Thegroovesforthegates,2inchesdeep,arestill visibleontheE.sidethe ofgateway.AdjoiningtheS.E.gate- tower,asInotherancientGreekstructuresfitthekind,wasa well-house,thedoorofwhich,enclosedbycolumns,openedinto theinnersideofthegateway.Itcontainedalargewater-basin, fedbyanaqueduct,anda spaceinfrontforthosewhocameto drawwater.Thewornsurfacethe ofmarbleMt. fromHymettos, withwhichthelatterispaved,testifiestothegreatnumberofthese. To theW.oftheDipylonaretheremainsofamassivelineof wall.About15pacesfromtheouter(S.W.)gate-towerstands astoneabout3ft.inheight,inscribedOpotKepajicixoO, and probablymarkingthelimitbetweenthedistrictofKerameikosand ademeadjoiningitontheW.Theoldercity-wallofThemistocles, inwhichthisstonestands,seemstohavebeenstrengthened, probablyatthetimetheDipylonwasbuilt,byanouterlineoffortifi cationsabout14ft.wide.Thislastconsisted,asthefoundations show,oftwowallswithaninterspacefilledwithearth.—Inthe 88 Route8. ATHENS.AncientBurialGround. coursef o theearliercity-wall,about66yds.totheW.oftheDi pylon,aretheremainsofanother gateway.Thiswasprobablythe SacredGate,throughwhichtheprocessionsoftheEleusinianfesti valsleftthecity.Italsoconsistedoftwogate-building6,inclosing a courtabout100ft.long, buthadonlyasinglegateway, also 111/3ft.wide.Theouterstructurehasbeenentirelychangedby theconstructionofalargesewer,whichnowpassesthroughit. WenowproceedtotheW.,inthedirectionoftheHagiaTrias Chapel(p.86),tothe*BurialGroundoutsidetheDipylon. TravellerswhohavevisitedRomeandPompeiihavealreadybecome familiarwiththeancientcustomofburyingthedeadimmediately outsidethetown-gates,bythesidethe ofhighroads.Thisstreet oftombsoutsidetheDipylonistheonlyoneextantinGreece. ThesmallerobjectsfoundherehavebeenremovedtotheAthenian museums, butallthelargermonumentsthatcouldbearex posurehavebeenleftintheiroriginalpositions.Beforereaching theHagiaTriasChapelwesee,totherightoftheroad,twosteles oruprighttombstones.ThesearethemonumentsoftheCorcyreau ambassadorsThersandrosandSimylosandoftheCorcyreanProxenos (orConsul)Pythagoras,erectedatthepubliccost.Thesemonuments lie16ft.lowerthanthosehereafterdescribed,sothattheground heremusthavebeenveryuneveninancientdays.Beyondthechapel oftheHagiaTriasareseveraltombswithsubstructures,amongthem alargemarbleblockresemblingasarcophagus,withaninscription totheeffectthatitistheGraveofHipparete,thewifeofAlkibiades theYounger.Wethenreachthe*MonumentofDexileos,ayoung Athenianwhodistinguishedhimselfbyhisvalourthe inCorinthian WarinB.C.394-393; thereliefrepresentshimonhorsebackinthe actofstrikingdownhisfoe;theweaponsandbridleswereadded inbronze.Thetwostelaeinfrontbelongtoothermembersofthe samefamily,thewholeformingafamilytomb. Fartherlongthe a mainroadistheGraveofKorallion,therelief representingafamilygroup.Koralliongraspsthehandofherhus bandAgathonwithherrighthandandhisarmwithherleft,while inthebackgroundareanotherbeardedmanandayouth.—Adja centisatallgravestonewithahandsomeornament,oracroterion, atthetop.Thenextmonumentisintheformofasmalltemple, theinteriorofwhichwasadornedwithpaintings,nowcompletely erased.Alittlefartheronalargebulloccupiesthetopofatomb stone.Beforeitisanothertemple-likemonumentwithtracesof painting; thena largeMolossianhound,andaSeaman'sGrave,em bellishedwithareliefrepresentingafamilygrouponthesea-shore [not,ashasbeensaid,Charonthe andferryoftheStyx). OppositetheMolossianhoundisthe*TombofHegeso,perhaps themostbeautifulofall,representingaladyathertoilette,at tendedbya femaleslave.TotheN., lyingalittleback, isthe TombofAristion,withareliefofanudeyouth,whilealittleto Hiigia Marina. ATHENS. 8.Route.89 the N.E.isastonewithadomesticsceneoffourfigures,Protonoe, Nikostrate,Eukoline,andOnesimos. ByascendingfromthetomhofDexileos(p.88)inthedi rectionoftherailway-station,wereachanareastrewnwithlarge rases,sarcophagi,cippi,andthelike,amongwhichisanalto-re liefwiththenamesDemetriaandPamphile.Adjacentisthelife- sizereliefofa woman,ofwhichtheheadandtheinscriptionare missing.Ona finelyexecutedsteleisthefigureofgirl a witha pitcher.—Theexcavationshavebeendiscontinuedonaccountof theextravagantclaimsforcompensationmadehytheownersofthe ground. At Athens,asatRome,a greatpartoftheareaoftheancient cityisnowunoccupied.TotheW.andS.W.oftheAreopagusandthe Acropolisrisesarockyridge,stretchingfromtheN.W.totheS.E. anddividedhytwodepressionsintothreesummits,theHillofthe Observatory,thePnyx,andtheHillofPhilopappos.Thewholeof thismass,nowusedsolelyasstonequarriesandpastureforafew goats,hearsinnumerablevestigesancient ofsettlements.Regular cuttingsintherock,entirelyunlikequarries,remainsofwalls,and piecesofstuccotestifyconclusivelytotheformerpresencehereof humanhabitations, amongwhichalsothelinesoftheancient streets lIncanfrontinofmanytheplaces dwellingsbearemaderockyout.terraces, thedifferenttiersof whichareconnectedbyflightsofsteps.Deepchannelshewnintherock collecttherain-waterandconductitintoreservoirs.Nnmeroussquare chambershave beenhollowedoutintherock,oneofwhich,ontheslope oftheHillPhilopappos of , haswalls11ft.high, coveredwithce menttowithin1 ft.ofthetop.Thecisternsarecircular,andsome ofthemareprovidedwithnichesinthesides,formingakindofladder fordescendingtothesurfaceofthewater.Store-rooms,shapedsome whatlikeabottle,withanarrowneckandamorecapaciouschamber behind,havebeenhewncarefullyintherock.Bock-tombsliesingly orinpairsnearthe houses,ingreater ornumberslinethepaths.Small nichesin therockwereusedasbracketsforstatuettes; bencheswere formedatsuitablepointsforrestintheopenair.Placesofpopular assemblymayberecognizedbythenumberofrockyseatsadjoiningeach other,whilesubstructureswithstepsandextensiveplatformsindicate thesiteofopen-airaltarsandsanctuaries1(CvrUut). To theW.oftheTheseion(p.84)andAreopagus(p.56)liesa wideroadplantedwithtrees,whichformsaprolongationtothe PiraeusRailwayStationthe ofboulevardskirtingtheAcropolis. TheeminenceconnectedwiththeObservatoryHillandnamedthe HagiaMarina(PI.B, 6)fromthesmallchurchsituatedonit, extendsalmosttothestreet,andisascendedby meansof aflight ofsteps.ThesmoothsurfaceattheS.E.angleisduetoanextra ordinarysuperstition.WomenwhosefamiliesProvidencehas notseenfittoincreaseslidedowntherockinthefirmbelief that thiBwillcausetheirwishestoberealised! TheHagiaMarinais thicklystrewnwithrelicsofancientdwellings,asabovedescribed. About30pacesbelowandtotheS.ofthechapel,neartheS. 90 Route8. ATIIENS.HillofthePnyx. marginf o thecliff,thewordsOpo?Ai6{(readingfromrightto left)arecutintherock,indicatingtheboundaryof aprecinct sacredtoZeuB. ThehillofwhichtheHagiaMarinaisaspuriscrownedbythe Observatory(dsTepoaxoirciov; PI.A,6; 340ft.),erectedbyBa ronSina,a richGreekmerchantofVienna,in1842,anddownto 1884undertheadmirablemanagementofDr.JuliusSchmidt,who broughtbackthelostastronomyoftheGreeksfromtheHyperbo reans.ThepresentdirectorisDr.Aigihetes.Aninscriptionon therock,inthegardentotheW.oftheObservatory('Iepov Nupup... Septo• 0inasgiventhiseminencethenameoftheHill oftheNymphs.ItprobablyreferstoashrineoftheNymphsin connectionwiththedeme.ThefoundationofatempleofArtemis AristoboHleinthisneighbourhoodwasascribedtoThemistokles, whosehousewascloseby, inallusiontohisprudentadviceinthe PersianWar.ThelonganddeepravinetotheW.oftheObserva toryisundoubtedlytheancientBarathron(i.e.gorge),intowhich thebodiesofmalefactorswerecast afterexecution.Itispartlyar tificialandisperhapstheoldestquarryusedbytheAthenians. From theObservatorywenowproceedtowardstheS.E.tothe topoftheHillofthePnyx(PI.B,7;360ft.),ontheN.E.slopeof whichissituatedoneoftheearlieststructuresinAthens,dis tinctlyvisiblefromtheAreopagus,theAcropolis,andotherelevat edpointsintheneighbourhood.Thisconsistsofahugeartificial terraceorplatform,395ft.longand212ft.wide,theuppermargin ofwhichiscutoutoftherock,whilethelowerissupportedbya massivewallofirregular,so-calledPelasgicmasonry,intheform ofa slightlyflattenedsemicircle.Someofthestonesareremark ablefortheirgreatsizeandweight;onenearthemiddle, aboveasquareopeningfortheescapeofrain-water,is13ft.long and6'/2ft-high.Theperpendicularwallofrockatthebackof theterrace,13ft.inheight,isnotperfectlystraightbutdescribes anobtuseangle,infrontofwhichisahugecubeofrockhewn outofthesolidmass,restingonthreestepsandmountedbya smallflightofstepsoneachside.Theplatformhasbeensupposed tobethePnyx,wheretheAtheniansheldtheirpoliticalas semblies,andtheBema,ororators'stage,issupposedtohavebeen atthebaseofthecubeofrock,wheresocketsarevisiblethatmay havebeenmadeforitssupports.Thespaceoccupiedbythelisten ingthrongofcitizensmust,however,havebeenancientlyofvery differentconfiguration.Possiblythesupportingwallabovemen tionedwasoriginallymuchhigher,sothat theauditoriumsloped downwardsfromittotheBema.Totheleftofthecubeofrockis a semicircularrecess,surroundedbyanumberofsmall niches; belowthesewerefoundnumerousvotivetabletsmostofthemde dicatedtothe'supremeZeus',andnearlyallnowintheBritish Museum.—IntheE.angleoftheplatformstandsalargeblock Monum.f o Philopappos.ATHENS. 8.Route.91 of thelivingrock,whichforsomereasonwasnotremoved,though preparationstodosohadevidentlybeenbegun. About0 3 pacesfromthetopoftheupperwall,whichwereach eitherfromthecubeofrockorbythestepslittle a totheW.of it,isanothersimilaraltar,ina verydilapidatedcondition.This wasformerlysupposedtobethebema'facingthesea',usedfrom thetimeofThemistoklesonwards.—ThePnyxcommandsoneof themostfavourableviewsoftheAcropolis. To theE.ofthePnyx,inthedirectionoftheAreopagus,theGerman ArchaeologicalInstitute(p.94)haslaidbarethefoundationsofalong rowofancientdwelling-housesskirtingtheroad,andbesidetheman antiquestreetwithanaqueduct; alsoachamberintherockwitha mosaicpavementandseveralsmallshafts,withcisternsandconduits infront. FarthertotheS.wereachthesmallchurchofHagiosDemetrios Loumbardaris(PI.B,7),whichliesinthedepressionbetweenthe PnyxandthehillofPhilopappos.Itprobablymarksthesiteof oneoftheancienttown-gates.Inthesamehollow,about100paces totheW.,isa rock-tomb,theinteriorofwhichisdividedinto twochambersbyapartition.ThetraditionsoftheAtheniancice ronidescribeitastheTombofKimon,butthisisevidentlya mistake;ata laterperioditbecame,asthenowalmostillegible inscriptionrecords,theburial-placeof acertainZosimianus. On thehillarevarioustracesoftheoldtown-wall,stretching inthedirectionofthemonumentofPhilopappos.Thehillwas formerlycalledtheMuseion(Mouaeiov),anamepopularly derived fromatraditionthatthepoetMusseoswasburiedhere,butmore probablytobecarriedbacktotheexistenceofvery a earlyfane ofthe Muses. TheMonumentofPhilopappos(PI.B,8),whichnowlendsits nametothehill,wasbuiltin114-116A.D.inmemoryofthe grandsonofAntiochosIV.Epiphanes,thelastkingofKommagene inAsiaMinor,whowasdethronedbyVespasian.C.JuliusAn- tiochusPhilopapposwasenrolledasanAtheniancitizeninthe demeofBesa,butstilladheredtohishereditarytitleofking.He filledvariouspublicofficesinhisadoptedcity,andcommended himselftohisfellow-citizensbyhisliberality.Themonument, whichIsbuiltofPentelicmarbleandisabout40ft.inheightand about33ft.inwidth,hasaslightlyconcaveform,withthecon cavityturnedtowardstheAcropolis.Thesubstructureisformed offivelayersofPirseusstone.Theupperportionisadornedwith afriezeinvigorousalto-relief,ofwhichabouttwo-thirdsarepre served,andabovethisarethreenichesseparatedbyCorinthian pilasters.ThesittingfigureinthecentralnicheisPhilopappos himself,towhosepositionas acitizenofthedemeofBesaandas Romanconsul(ca.100A.D.)theinscriptionsbearreference.The statuetotheleftisthatofthegrandfatherofPhilopappos,while thenowvacantnicheontheothersidecontainedfigureof aking 92 Route8. ATHENS.Boul.deVUniversite. SeleukosNikator,founderofthedynastyofKommagene.re The liefissupposedtorepresenttheceremonialprogressofPhilo- papposinhisconsularinsignia.Thequadrangularspaeeatthe backwastheburial-ground. The *ViewofAthenafromthehillofPhilopapposisoneofthefinest intheneighbourhood.InthecentrerisestheAcropolis,whichisad mirablysurveyedhenceinitsfulllength;atitsbase theOdeionofHe- rodesandtheTheatreofDionysos,totherightofwhicharetheArchof HadrianandtheOlympieion,backedthe byheightsofthe Stadionand S£t.Symetios.TotheleftoftheAcropolisaretheTheseionandtheHill oftheNymphs,andbeyondthemtheAthenianplain,boundedbyjEgaleos andFames.OvertheAcropolistheLykabettos.andinthebackground apartofMi.Penlelikon(Brilessos)isvisible.Tothe8.liestheSaronic Qulf,withitsislandsandcoasts. On theN.E.slopeofthehillofPhilopappos,theboule near vard,areseveralconspicuousdoorwayscutintheperpendicularly hewnwallofrockandnowclosedwithwoodengatespaintedred. Thisistheso-calledPrisonofSocrates,andconsistsofthreecham bershewninthesolidrock,ofwhichthatinthecentrewasnever finished.Thechamberontheleft,12ft.longand7^2ft.wide, hasaflatceiling;ontheflooraremarksofasarcophagus.The chamberontheright,ofthesamesize,hasaslopingceiling. Fromthecorneratthebackaroundapertureleadsintoarotunda (8<5Xo?),11ft.indiameter,withellipticalvaulting.Theopening wasclosedbytwoslabs,oneofwhichisextant.Thewholelocality isverysimilartothetreasure-houseofAtreusatMyoense.Therewas probablya structureinfrontofthethree doorstherock, inwith whichperhapstheflightofstepstothelefthadsomeconnection. d.TheModernQuartersoftheTownandthelargeCollections ofAntiquities. Tramway throughtheRueduStadetothePlacedelaConcordeand pastthelargeMuseums(pp.62, 63)toPatisia,seep.3. Two wideparallelstreets,plantedwithtrees,theBoulevardde l'Universite-andtheRueduStade, leadN.W.fromthePlacedela Constitution(p.46)tothePlacela deConcorde.IntheRtjedu Stade(PI.F,E,5,4)aretheHouseofParliamentthe (BouX^), MinistryofFinance(withashadygardenattheback,inwhichis thechurchofSt.Theodore,rebuiltin1049),theMinistryofthe Interior,andfartheron,alittletotheright,theNationalBank (PI.D,3). The Boulevaeddel'Univeesit^(Xecntpopo?iroveraaxTjfxioi)) containsnumeroushandsomeprivatehousesbuiltofmarblefrom Mt.HymettosorMt.Pentelikon.Thefirstoftheseontheright, withaloggiaandtheinscription'IXfouMiXa&pov('PalaceofIlion'; PI.S,F, 4), belongedtoDe.Schliemann(1822-90),thewell- knownexplorerofthesiteofTroy,andisnowoccupiedbyhis widow.—FartheronaretheRomanCatholicChurch(PI.F,4), a Romanesquebuildingwithawideflightofstepsandaspacious vestibule,andadjacentanOphthalmicHospital(6(pftaX[iiaTpeiov). University. ATHENS. 8.Route.93 Thenexthandsomebuildingonthesamesideofthestreetis the'AcademyofScience('AxaoT]u.eia; PI. F,built 4), attheex penseofthelateBaronSinaofVienna,anddestinedfortheaccom modationof abodyofGreekandforeignsavants,constitutedon themodeloftheInstitutde FranceandtheBerlinAcademy.The building,executedfromthedesignsofHansenofViennaunder thesupervisionofE.Ziller,consistsentirelyofPenteliomarble andisconstructedintheclassicGrecianstyle,withIoniccolonnades andsculpturedpediments.Itisprofuselyadornedwithpainting andgilding,enablingtoform ussomeideaoftheeffectofthese embellishments,ofwhichscantytracesnowaloneremainin the architecturalmonumentsofantiquity.Thegroupinthepediment ofthecentralstructure,representingthebirthAthena, of wasexe cutedinmarblebytheGreeksculptorDrosos.Thegroupsinthe gablestotherightandleftareinterracotta.Thetwolofty,andsome whatmisplacedIoniccolumnsinfrontaresurmountedbystatuesof AthenaandApollo,alsobyDrosos.ThesittingfiguresofPlato(left) andSocrates(right),oppositethe entrance,arebythesameartist. Interior(visitorsknockatthemainentrance).Theprincipalhall containsaseriesofpaintingsbyGriepenkerlofVienna,relatingtothe mythofPrometheus: No.1 (attheend,totheleft),Themisforetelling tohersonPrometheushisownfateandthatoftheworld; 2.Prometheus lightinghistorchinpresenceofAthena; 3.Prometheusbreathinglifeinto meninpresenceofAthena,inspiteofthewarningofEpimetheus\ 4.(end- wall)ZeusandtheTitans5.Prometheusbringingfiretomortals; 6.Pro metheusBound,withthemourningOceanidte; 7.Prometheusfreedby Hercules;8.(abovetheentrance)PrometheusintroducedtoOlympus.. ThemarblestatueofBaronSinaisbyDrosos.—Byashortflightof stepsdescendingtotherightfromthevestibule,andthenbyacorridor, wereachthevaluableCollectionofCoins(adm.dailyexceptholidays,9-12; curator,Mr.J.Svordnos),chieflyfromcountriesinfluencedbyGrecian civilization. AdjacentistheUniversity(TcctveTiiaTT)[jiiov; PI. F,4), builtin 1837byHansentheElder(ofCopenhagen),andalsoadornedwith polychromepaintingandanIonicportico.Totherightandleft ofthefacadearestatuesofthePatriarchGregory,whowasmur deredbyjanissaries,andRhigas,thepoetoftheWarofLiberation. MoreinfrontisasittingfigureofKora'is,thephilologist.The university,whichisorganisedontheGermansystem,embraces thefourfacultiesof theology,jurisprudence,medicine,andphilo sophy.Itisattendedbyabout1500students(tfoiTrjTai),whoare instructedby60professors,ordinaryandextraordinary(xaxtixol xollnTOXTOtxo97)ftjtocQ,andbyafewprivatelecturers(utfnrj-prjTcu). ConnectedwiththeuniversityareaPharmaceuticSchool; Chemi calandAnatomicalInstitutes; anObservatory(p.90); a Library of100,000vols.; aMuseumofNaturalHistory,interestingforits comprehensivecollectionofGreekspecimens; andaPalaeontologi- calCabinet.Mostofthesecollectionsareintheuniversitybuilding. TheLibrary,whichisopendailyduringthesessionfrom9to3, containsbustsofByron,Mavrokordatos,SirRichardChurch,andother heroesofthe"WarofIndependance.Thelastroomtotheleftcontains 94 Route8.' ATHENS.PolytechnicInstitute. asupplyofthelatestscientificperiodicals.—TheAdlaiselaborately decorated.Attheendareportraitsofdeceasedprofessors. A largenewLibraryBuildingisbeingerected,withthepro ceedsof alegacyofthebrothersVallianos,intheadjoiningen closedspace.—TotheN.E.,ontheslopeoftheLykabettos,is theFrenchteoled'Ath'enes(PI.G,3; director,M.Th.Homolle), establishedin1846. Farthern o intheBoulevarddel'Universite",totheleft,isthe Arsakion(PI.E,3),asuperiorschoolforgirls,foundedandrichly endowedby M.Arsakis.Thebuildingisadornedwithaheadof Athena.—Inthenextside-streetontheright(686?IlivoviunTUJv), atthe corneroftheRuedePhidias, istheGermanArchaeological Institute(PI.E,3;directors,Prof.DorpfandeldDr.Wolters), foundedin1874. The RueduStadeandtheBoulevarddel'Universite',after crossingtheRuetffiole(p.49)anditsN.prolongation,theRue dePatitia,endatthePlacedelaConcorde(itXaxelatjj«6[XO- voia?;PI.D,2),a squarepleasantlyadornedwithtreesanda musicpavilion,andmuchfrequentedintheafternoon.—Tram ways,seep.36.AlittletotheN.isthestationoftherailwayto Kephisia TheRandued'Laurion.Athene(686{jA8t)v5;; PI.D,3, 4,5)leadsfrom thePlacedelaConcordetowardstheS. Itcontainsthenew Theatre,builtbyZiller(p.36),andtheDemarcMa,ormunicipal offices.Fartheronisavacantspace, boundedontheW.bythe Varvakion(PI.D,4),agymnasiumfoundedby M.Varvakes,and ontheE.bythelargenewBazaar(PI.D,4),chieflyusedas a provision-market. TheRueduPiree(PI.C,B,3,4),leadingfromthePlacede laConcordetotheS.W.,commandsafineviewofthesea,bestby evening-light.ItcontainsamusicalacademycalledtheOdeion. —TotheW.runstheRueConstantin,withthenewchurchof HagiosKonstantinos(PI.C,2)andanunfinishedtheatreforGreek plays,attheendofwhich(totheright)divergesthestreetleading tothePeloponnesosrailway-station(R.12). The RuedePatisia(856?IlaTiotajv;PI.D,E,2,1)isa favouritepromenadeonsummer-eveningsaftersundown, butis littlefrequentedatothertimes.Ontheright,near theoutskirts ofthetown,risesthe— PolytechnicInstitute(IioXuTEyveiov; PI.E,1), builtin1868 ofPentelicmarblebyLysanderKaftanzoglou,attheexpenseof somewealthyGreeks,fortheaccomodationofthePolytechnicSchool foundedin1837.Itconsistsofacentralbuildingwithtwostories oftheDoricandIonicorders,flankedbytwoprojectingwingsin the Doricstyle.OnthefirstflooristheMuseumof theHistorical swhichi opendaily,exceptholidays,2-4p.m.Itcontainsme National Museum. ATHENS. 8.Route.95 morials of thejGreekWarofIndependence,portraitsofimportant personages,nativecostumes,etc. oNextt thePolytechnicInstituteandseparatedfromitonlyby a narrowside-streetisthe**NationalArchaeologicalMuseum ('Edvixov

the MycenianandEgyptianantiquities,thoseoftheN.wingthe sculpturesinmarble,andthoseoftheS.wingthebronzesandvases. II. *SaioonoftheMycbnianAntiquities, decoratedwith paintingsfromdesignsofthearchitect6.Kaverau.Thenucleusof thiscollectionconsistsoftheobjectsfoundbyDr.Schliemannin 1876andtheGreekArchaeologicalSocietyin1877attheancient citadelofMycenae.Tothesehavebeen addedobjectsofthesame periodfoundatSpata,Menidi,Nanplia,Vaphi6,etc.Theyinclude weapons,ornaments,vesselsofgold,silver,andclay,andother objectsusedforadorningthetombsofimportantpersonages,some datingfromthe12thcent.B.C. 96 Route8. ATHENS.NationalMuseum. Inthemiddleoftheroom,underglass,isaTomb(No.VI)fromMy cenae,arrangedhereexactlyasitwasdiscoveredbytheArcheeological Society.Thecontentsconsisttwo ofskeletons,oneofwhichistolerably wellpreserved,surroundedbyplatesandbandsofgold,weaponsin cast metal,andterracottavessels. The explanatorylabelsonthefollowingcasesshouldobserved. be — GravesI andII,thefirstofwhichcontainedthreecorpses,andthe secondone,werethepoorestinobjectsofinterest;thenexttwograves weretherichest.InUbaveIIIthreepersonswereinterred;amongthe mostinterestingobjectsareabout700smallroundplatesofgoldwith ornaments,alargeheaddressformedofornamentedbandsofgold,three goldenshovelsengravedwithbattle-scenes,andanembossedgoldencnp withahandle. The facesoffourofthefivebodiesinGeavewere IVcoveredwith thingoldenmasks,ofrudeworkmanship.Amongtheotherobjectsaresix agraffesorclasps; thegoldenmaskofalion; abull'sheadinsilver;atwo- handledgobletwithdoves,likethatNestor of describedbyHomer(inner sideofthe5thcase);asilverbeaker,withgoldornaments;ringsand pinsofgold;vesselsofalabaster;amberbeads;swords,knives,anddag gers(oneinlaidwithgold),andlances(inthecorner-case).Theblades oftheweaponsareallof castmetal,andthehiltswereofwood. InGeaveVthreebodieswereinterred;andamongthe othercon tentshereshownareagoldenmask,withafragmentoftheskullstill adheringtoit;severalbones;agoldenbeaker;platesofgold;quad a rangularcasketofcypress-wood;anostrichegg,towhicharefastened dolphinsinalabaster. Avarietyofobjectswerealsofoundoutsidethetombs,atMycenee, Tiryns,etc.Fragmentsofpaintedstuccofromtheinteriorofdwellings inthecitadelofMycenee;bronzes;objectsinivory;smalllioninsolid gold;rings;somegoldenvesselsthesideswhich of havebeencrushed together;arrow-heads;gems;amberbeads. TheobjectsfromtheGravesofSpataincludenumeroussmallorna mentsinivoryandvitreouspaste,twoplaqueswiththerepresentationof alionandbullfight,andsomegoldenornaments.—FromtheGrave ofMenidicomearticlesingoldandivory,bronzes,vitreouspaste,and gems.—FromtheGeaveofVaphio: Goldbeakerwithrepresentation ofthecaptureofabull,andotherobjects.—Objectsofasimilarchar acterfoundintherock-tombsontheslopeofthePalamidiatNauplia. Below thecasesareterracottavessels,remainsofcoppervessels,and thelike.Ontheend-wallarearchaiclimestonereliefsfromMycense. III. SaloonoftheEgyptianAntiquities,paintedlikethe preceding.Thiscollection,presentedbyM.DimitriouofAlexan driain1881,consistschieflyofbronzes, representingEgyptian deitiesandanimals,andofothersmallobjects,suchassearabai, amulets,etc.Amongthebronzesisa statuettecoveredwithin laidhieroglyphicsinsilver.Thewoodenfigureofwoman a knead ingbreadshouldalsobenoticed. Fromthe vestibule(p.95)weturntotheleftintothe— IV.RoomofArchaicArt(aftrouoadoyai%r\).Intheante room:totheleft,6.Femalefigureenthroned,fromArcadia,above, 4(fromBoeotia),and(from 6 Eleusis),Statuettesintheformof theearlywoodenimages(Xoana); 41.Base withTeliefsfrom Lamvrika,witha RepresentationoftheDeceasedonhorseback onthefront,andonthesidesaman(hisfather; right)and(left) twomourningwomen; above,36.Tastefulreliefwithtwoseated women,fromAttica;67.FemaleseatedstatuefromArcadia,re callingEgyptiantypes;*1.PrimitiveStatueofArtemis,from National Museum. ATHENS 5.Route.97 Delos, dedicatedtothegoddessbyNikandraofNaxos,accordingto theinscriptionontheleftsidethe offigure;66.Somewhatclumsy double-relieffromTanagra,representingthebrothersDermysand Kitylos.—Totheright:7,7a.Fragmentsofafemalestatue,ex tricatedfromthecity-wallneartheDipylon(p.87); above, 65. Portionof aso-calledFuneralBanquet,fromTegea; 68.Archi tecturalfragmentwitharam's head,fromEleusis;above,Castofa relieffoundinLaconia;22.Femaletorso,fromDelos,inthestyle ofthedrapedstatuesontheAcropolis(p.79);12.Torso,from Boeotia. In themainportionoftheroom: infrontofthepillarsatthe entrance,totheleft,20.Apollo,fromPtoioninBoeotia;totheright, 21.Nike,fromDelos.Fartheron,totheleft,86.SteleofAnti- phanes(thefadedpaintingisshownbetterinthecopyabove); *29. CelebratedarchaicSteleofArUtion,byAristokles, thefinelyexe cutedandrichlypaintedportraitawarrior, of foundatVelanideza. OntheE.wall,asa companion-piece,isNo.30.SteleofLyseas, withcopyadjoining.—Inthecentre: ArchaicApollo,fromMelos, distinguishedforitssizeandgoodpreservation(feetalonere stored).—Statuesof asimilartypeareplacedattheW.wall: Nos.9,10,fromBoBotia,No.8fromThera; adjacent,Castofthe ApolloofTenea.—N.Wall: 39.SteleofOrchomenoa(Boeotia), witha reliefrepresentinga beardedmanleaningonastaffand encouraginghisdogtosnapatgrasshopper. a Theinscriptionnames AlxenorofNaxosasthesculptor.AttheentrancetoRoomII:to theleft,46.StatueofApollo,of amoreadvancedperiod;this figurewaslongsupposedtohaveoriginallystoodontheadjacent Omphalos,whichisgirtwithfillets,andwhich,likethestatue, wasfoundintheTheatreofDionysos.Onthewallabove,82. DoublereliefofAthena;totheright,Sphinxes,headsofDionysos, and(93; underglass)adiscuswithfadedpainting. V. BoohofthhAthena(aWo'jaa'ASh^S?).Inthemiddle,65. elephantineareducedmarbleStatueimitation,ofAthena3Parthenos,ft.4*/2In.foundhigh,nearPhidias's oftheVarvakionOtrys- in1879(comp.p.94).Thegoddessisclothedwiththelongsleeve lesschiton,abovewhichthediplois, confinedbya girdleround thewaist,fallstothemiddleof thethigh; herlefthandrestslightly onhershield(thereliefsonwhicharenotrepresented); herout stretchedrightarmrestsupona pillarandholdsaNike,6in.high; abroadaegis,withtheheadofMedusa,coversherbreast; onher headshewearsalight,close-fitting,roundhelmet,decoratedwith threeplumessupportedinthemiddlebyasphinx andeachside on byahorse(brokenoff); thespearismissing; intheinsideofthe shieldiscoiledthesacredsnake.Thestatueexceptinfew a parti cularshasbeenwell-preserved.Thespectatorshouldrememberin examiningthisworkthatitisareducedcopyofa colossalfigure, theproportionsofwhichweremeanttobeseenfrombelow. Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEJit. 7 98 Route8. ATHENS.NationalMuseum. Totheleftoftheentrance,*126.EleusinianBelief, avotive tabletthe of5thcent,beforetheChristianera,7ft.highand5ft. wide,foundinthePropylaiaofEleusisin1859; thecomposition representsDemeterintheactofhandingsomegrainsofcorn(?)to aladinfrontofher,onwhoseheadPersephoneplacesagarland; theboymayrepresentTriptolemos,whofirsttaughtmentheart ofhusbandry. By thepillarfartheron,177.Femaleidealhead,foundatthe OdeionofHerodesAtticus,perhapsacopyofachryselephantine work; theeyeswereinlaidandthehairgilded.W.Wall: Several heads,includingoneof aBoar,from Tegea,supposedtobe worksbySkopasfromthepedimentofthetempleofAthena Alea;•181.So-calledHeadofEubuleus(orTriptolemos)from Eleusis,ofgreatartisticvalue(inthenicheabovetotheleftis arestoredplastercopyofthebustbyZumbuschofVienna,in thenichetotheright,Castoftheheadof theHermesofPraxi telesfromOlympia).182.HeadofAphrodite,fromtheS.slopeof theAcropolis,ofgreatbeauty;159-161.Threeslenderfiguresof Nike,fromEpidauros,intheattitudetheNike of ofPaeonios.—N. Wall: 128.So-calledLenormantStatuetteofAthena,l*/aft.high, foundatAthensin1859byLenormant,acopyofthechrysele phantineAthenaintheParthenon,insomedetails(base,shield, etc.)morefaithfulthantheVarvakionstatue(p.97).176.Youthful Plutos,fromacopyofacelebratedgroupbyKephisodotosrepre sentingIrenewithPlutos(offoreignmarble).176.Delicately executedstatuetteof,agoddess(AphroditeorArtemis?),from thePiraeus.—BytheE.WallaresculpturesfromtheTempleof JEsculapiusatEpidauros:164-171.Fragmentsofa simawith lions'headsfromtheso-calledTholosofPolykleitos; sculptures fromthepedimentsofthetempleofjEsculapius,etc.136.Mounted Amazon,137.WoundedAmazon,155.Nikewithabirdinherright hand,156,157.ProbablyNereids;173,174.TworeliefsofjEscu- lapiusenthroned,perhapscopiesofthegoldandivorystatueby Thrasymedes. VI. RoomoftheHermes(at&ouaa'Epjiou).W.Wall: *218. HermesofAndros,oneofthefinestpiecesinthecollection.This andtheHermesinRoomVIII(No.240)wereprobablysepulchral figures,bearingthefeaturesofthedeceased; thefemalestatue, No. 219,totherightof theentrance,issaidtohavebeenfoundon thesamespotasthisHermes.—Totheleft,*221,222.Friezeof Lamia,a freely-executedprocessionofTritons,Nereids,and Cupids; totheright,215-217.Three marbleslabsfromMantinea, thattotherightrepresentinginreliefthecompetitionbetween Apolloandtheflute-playingMarsyas,withtheScythianbetween themreadytoflaythedefeatedcompetitor; ontheothertwoslabs aresixMuseswiththeirinstruments. SpecialnoticeshouldbepaidtothesculpturesfromtheTemple National Museum. ATHENS. 8.Route.99 of DespoinaatLykosoura,fromthechiselDamophon, of a sculptorofMessenewholivedin the4thcent.B.C.Totheleft oftheentrance,225a.MaleHead,recallingtheZeusOtricoli,prob ablyfromPausanias'sdescriptionthetitanAnytos; oneachside oftheentrancetothePoseidonRoomisaFemaleHead,thelarger, withaveil-likedrapery,representingDespoina,theotherperhaps Artemis; thenonarevolvingstand,a drapedfigure(Despoina), adornedwithgrotesqueornamentation(inthelowerroware ani malsclothedandplayingoninstruments). Totherightoftheentrance,aboveagroupoftwowomen(No. 220),aresomesmallreproductionsofportionsofthepedimentof theParthenon,fromEleusis.Infrontofthepilastersontheleft wallisaroundBasewithrepresentationsoftheTwelveGods.By thewalltotherightisaquadrilateralBase,whichappearsfroman inscriptionononesidetohavebornea workofthecelebrated sculptorBryaxis,dedicatedbyavictoriousPhylarchorcavalry- general.Thereliefsontheothersides,allbearingsimilarrepre sentationsofhorsemenwithtripods,arepossiblyalsobyBryaxis. Wenowproceed(comp.thePlan)pastaDoubleHerniaofApollo andDionysos,foundintheStadionin1869,andenter(totheleft) the— VII.RoomopThemis(aldouaa8£[juSo{).InfrontoftheN. wall: *231.ColossalstatueofThemis,fromthesmallerTemple ofNemesisatRhamnus.Aninscriptiononthebaseascribesthis worktoChaerestratos, sonofChaeredemosofRhamnus(ea.300 B.C.).Oneachsideisamarbleseatwhichoriginallystoodbe forethistemple.ThefollowingworksalsocomefromRhamnus: inthecorneroppositetheentrance,StatueofAristonoe,priestessof Nemesis,erectedbyhersonHierokles,sonofHieropoios; Statuette ofaYouth,ona loftydarkstelewithinscription,infrontofafalse door; Half-hermaofafigure(Hermes?)inkind a ofchlamys,ona roundbasewithinscription.—266.StatuetteofDionysos,from Sikyon;254.StatueofaYouthfromEleusis,recallingfiguresby Polykleitos.—Onthewalltotheleftoftheentrancearethree elegantreliefsofwomendancing,fromtheTheatreofDionysos. VIII. RoomopPoseidon(aWouoaIToueiBoivoi;).Ona lofty marblepedestaloppositetheentrance: *235.Colossalfigureof Poseidon,fromMelos.Totheright,infrontof afalsedoor,Tyche, fromAlexandria,highlypolished.—Onapedestalin thecentre, 261.Maenadsleepingonawildbeast'sskin,afterthetypeofa Hermaphrodite.—Onthebracketsontheside-wallsarennmerous heads,mostlyportraits; nearthecentreoftheS.wall,327.Demo sthenes,withdeeplymarkedandgrave,almostsevere,features,from thepalace-gardenatAthens. Before eachside-wallisarowofstatues.Totheleft:234.Co lossalheadofAthena,areplicaofthetypeof theAthenaofVelletri. This,withNo.233.TorsoofNike(by therightwall),wasfoundnea 100 Soute8. ATHENS.NationalMuseum. thePiraeusRailwayStationanderroneouslyascribedtotheMon umentofEubulidesmentionedbyPausanias.240.HermesofAta- lanta,theKerykeion,orherald'swand,ofbronze,formerlyinthe lefthand,ismissing;Hermes, 241.and242./StatueofaWoman, bothfromMgicrn,areprobablyidealizedstatuesofdeceasedper sons; 244.Statu*ofaYouthfromEretria,anotheridealizedwork [theheadresemblesthatthe ofHermesofPraxiteles); 243.Her meswiththeBam,fromTrcezen; 262.AphroditefromEpidauros, inatransparentrobe,thebeltoriginallysupportedasword; 246. Warrior,orHermes,fromAthens.—Totheright:380.Un finishedSeatedStatueofaWoman,fromRheneianearDelos; 257. SUenuscarryingtheinfantDionysos,whoholdsamask,onhisleft shoulder(fromtheTheatreofDionysos);239.SatyrfromLamia; 266.StatuetteofDionysosfromEleusis;261,252.StatuettesofPan, fromthePiraeusandSparta;253.StatuetteoftheyoungHercules fromAthens;248. YouthfulVictor,fromtheOlympieion;*247. WarriorfromDelos,oneofthebestworksin themuseum,recall ing thePergamenianschoolandperhapstheworkofNikeratos, thoughithasalsobeenascribedtoAgasias,sonofMenophilosof Ephesus,amemberofthesamefamilyasAgasias,sonofDositheoB, thesculptoroftheBorghese"Warrior. IX. RoomoftheKosmet.s(a'idouoaxosu.t)t<»v).Totheleft oftheentrance,249.BustoftheEmperorHadrian,foundnearthe Olympieion; totheright,419.HeadwithlongringletsandSemitic features(recallingheadsof Christ),highly inpolishedforeign marble,restinguponfoliage(foundintheTheatreofDionysos); 420.Bustof aYouth,withbeautifulbutdecidedfeatures.—By theentrancetothenextroom: 417, 418.BustsofAntinous,from Patras.—Infrontthe ofN.Wall:Hermaewithinscriptions; be sideandabovethese,HeadsofHerm;e,mostlyofKosmetaeorof ficialsoftheEphebicGymnasiaatAthens,formingamostinter estingcollectionofportraits,mainlythe fromfirstcenturiesofour era.Abovethetop-rowofheads,382.Plaquewithsixtheatrical masks,the votiveofferingofa victoriouschoragos; stillhigher, 383.Grotesqueface(Apotropaeon).—ThefineMosaicinthemiddle ofthefloorwasfoundatthePiraeus. X.LargeRoomoptheSepvlchbalRblibfs([j.sY«ta]aftrouaa £itiTuu.fituwA-iafXiyw*).InthisroomandRR.XIandXIIisa uniquecollectionof'SepulchralReliefs,datingchieflyfromthe goldenperiodofGrecianart,someofwhichareextremelyfine. Goethe,J oneofthelettersinhisItalienUcheReise(datedVerona, Sept.16th),vrhiledescribingsomesimilartomb-reliefsofantiquity,no ticestheabsenceofallattempttoexpressgriefbyconventionalgestures, andpraisesthecharmingnaivete"withwhichthefiguresarerepresented asengagedintheordinaryrelationslife. ofItis,however,undeniable thatscenesofsorrowandpartingareoftenpowerfullydepictedinsome ofthebestoftheseancientreliefs,anditisnotimprobablethatsome thingofthesamesortmaybeindicatedeveninthemoresoberlytreated scenesoffamilylife.Suchreliefs, executedinpartbymechanicsand National Museum. ATHENS. 8.Route.101 exposedforsale,oftenshowusmoreemphaticallythantheworksof greatartistshowuniversalamongtheAthenianswasthatloveofpro portionandbeauty,whichinspiredeventheordinarystone-masons.The bulkoftheextantworksofthisclassdatefromthe4thcent,before theChristianeraandthesubsequentperiod(KeTcnU).—Thetombstones generallybearthenameofthedeceased,lessoftenhisageandtheword ^cilpe(farewell). The followingmaybespeciallymentioned.InR.X: 715-718, 736-738.Largetomb-reliefs;808-816.LargeAmphora(Lutro- phoraB);774,775.Sirens.Attheendoftheroomareseveralpri mitivelysimpleArchaicStela, fromThessaly, Acamania, and Bceotia,somebearinginscriptions.(Thewords'AfauoxX-rjX"^?eoa No.742,fromThespue,arealateraddition.)Onthewallsare copies ofpaintingsfoundinatomboflaterdatetotheE.oftheAkro- korinth,andnowdestroyed.—InR.XI:832-834.Reliefs;835. LargemarbleLekythos;817,818.ReliefsfromThespis.—InR. XII: 869-871,884,886. XIII. RoomoftheSepulchralVases(ouftouaai-Kixu\i$iwv dfieitat).1069.Largemarblesepulchralamphora,etc.—XIV. RoomoftheSabcophagi(alfrouaaoapxocpaYaw).Massivemarble vases,usuallyintheshapeoftallslenderlekythioramphora,sar cophagi,andothersepulchralembellishments,largelyofthebest periodofart.—XV.RoomoftheRomanSepclchbalReliefs (aKirouaapcn[j.a'ix<»vimxufi^im-ioivaTfXutpojv). XVI. RoomofthbVotiveReliefs(aWouaaW ovafMtpojv).OntheE.andN.wallsarerowsofthemostinteresting andbestpreservedvotivereliefsfromtheAsklepieionontheS.slope oftheAcropolis(p.23).Onaroundbasebeforethecentreofthe E.wallstandsaspeciallyimportantfragment,representingAskle- piosandhisfamilyinthetemple,totheleft,whileontherighta bandofsmallworshippersapproachthealtarwitharam.Mostof theotherreliefsrepresentthissamescene,thoughneverpreciselyin thesameway.Themostprominentfigure,afterthegod,isHygieia, thoughDemeter(seated)andPersephone(withatorch)alsooccur, forthefestivalofAsklepioswasconnectedwiththeEleusinian mysteries.Ontheotherwallsare votivereliefsfromotherpartsof AtticaandtherestofGreece.—Inthe centreisaTrilateralMon ument,bearingononesideDionysoswithakantharosandfigures ofNikeontheothertwo; thisbelongedtothevotiveofferingof a choragos.Totherightandleftarealtars.—The— XVII. Room(aWousadva-rXtfcpravxaiStatpopiuvIp^rov)con tainsmiscellaneousworks.Onthewallsareinscriptions,withre liefs,referringtoEphebi,etc.Herealsoisarichcollectionofso- calledBanquetsoftheDead.Inthesethedeceasedisrepresented recliningonacouch(kline)ameal, at usuallywithafemalefigure seatedathisfeet.—Inthecentreoftheroom: largecapitalof a column; sarcophaguswitharecumbentmanandwoman; covering fromafuneralmonumentinIthaka.Infrontofthemiddleofthe 120 Route8. ATHENS.NationalMuseum. window-wallis asemicircularbasewithinscription, an foundto theN.oftheTheseion. Twoside-rooms(PI.a andh),oneofwhichisembellished withaByzantinedoor-frame,containspecimensofByzantineand InterArt. We nowreturntotheVestibule(I)andentertheroomsinthe S.wing. XXIII.RoomoftheBronzes.Thecasetotheleftof theen trance containsheadsand thebladesofspears,daggers,andswords, bucklesofvariouskinds,andanumberofstrigilsorscrapers.Below thecaseisacollectionofbronzehelmets.—TheBmallobjectsin thecasetotherightaremostlyoftheByzantineperiod.—The fourfinestoftheBrontesofOlympiaareplacedconspicuouslyon pillars: Athenainfullarmour; DancingFaun; Archaichead; Head ofapugilist.—Thecabinets containsmallerbronzesfromtheAcro polisandOlympia.—Inthe othershow-casesare figuresofanimals, mirrors,combs,fragmentsoflocks,door-ornaments,andothersmall objects. XXII. Room.TerracottasfromAsiaMinor,gracefulfiguresin charmingattitudes. XXI. Room.Terracottas.Thosein thecabinetstotherightand leftofthedoorwerefoundinCorinth,Tegea,andEretria;theothers comefromTanagra.Thecollectionisrichandvaried.Thegraceful drapedstatuettesgirlsare ofamongthemostbeautifulspecimens extantoftheminorartsofGreece.—Thetable-casescontainear ringsandotherornamentsingold,mostofthemfoundinEretria. The followingthreerooms(XVIII-XX), formingtheS.sideof thebuilding,containtheCollectionofVases.Thearrangementis chronological.The— XVIII. RoomcontainstheVasesoftheso-calledMycenianEpoch, theDipylonVaies,etc.Mostof theDipylonVaseswerefoundinthe Kerameikos(p.37)andtaketheirnamefromthegatenearwhich severalofthe bestspecimenswerediscovered. Case, i adjoiningthedoor.PrimitivevesselsfromTroyinvarious shapes; 667.Small specimenofthewell-known'faceurns';earlyterra cottawarefromtheGreekislands.—Case2.Vases,chieflyintheMycen ianstyle, fromAtticaandotherdistricts.—Case3.VasesfromCyprus, withincisedandpaintedornamentation.—Belowthewindowandinthe middleoftheroomaresomeDipylonVases,largeurnswithgeometrical ornamentations,usedfortheadornmentoftombs.—Cases4and5.Smaller vasesofthesamekind.—Betweenthese,byitself,No.894,a geometrical vasewithwarriorsandchariots, anexampleoftheearliestappearance offiguresonvases.—Inthemiddleareafewlargevases.No.990. Funeralprocession,withthedeailmanonachariot.Fourlargevases fromMelos,in apeculiarstyle:911.ApolloCitharcedos,inachariotwith wingedhorses,andArtemisin frontofhim; 912,913.Horsesinaheraldic style.—Case7.BoeotianVases,mostofthemwithfourhandles,with linearornamentationandbirdsHying.—Case8.LargeVasesfromThebes. —Ca*e9 CorinthianVases,generallywith oneortwobandsofanimals, National Museum. ATHENS. 8.Route.103 afewwithhumanfigures.—Case10.BoeotianVasesofvariousshapes, withsphinxes,sirens,andotherfabulouscreatures.Theseformatransi tiontotheblack-figuredvasesproperlysocalled.—Betweenthelast- mentionedtwocases,underglass,aretwolong-neckedspecimensofthis class,withrepresentationsofmenandanimals.These,likethevasesin Case11,belongtotheso-calledVourvaEpoch,andareallofinferior workmanship.—Case13.Objectsfoundinthegraveofthewarriorswho fellatMarathon.—Adjacent,underglass,Nos.459,460.Black-figured vaseswithrepresentationsofthePrdthesis,orExposureofthedead('lying instate").—Case14.Lekythi,Amphorse,andPlates:507.ArmingofAchil les.—Case16.Black-figuredvasesfromTanagra; adjacent,1452.and1170. TwotallvaseswithrepresentationsofaProthesis,oneintheearlier, the otherinthe perfectedstyle.—Case17.BoeotianVotes,somewithbur lesquerepresentationsofmaskedpersonages.—Case15,inthemiddleof theroom,containsPanathenaicPrizeAmphorae:Nos.447,451, 452,with anarmedAthenathe onfront,andonthebackpugilisticencounters, wrestlingmatches,andchariotraces.—Case18.Black-figuredLekythi fromEretria:1132.HerculesandAtlas;1133.UlyssesandCirce;1130. UlyssesandtheSirens.Adjacent,long-neckedvasewithabridalproces sion.—TheFollowingCases(19-23)containblack-figuredvasesofthe samekindfromvariousquarters. TheXIX.RoomcontainsRed-figuredVases,alsoarrangedin chronologicalorder. Case25.Kos.1218,1219.DrunkenDionysoswithsatyrsandMsenads. Largervases:1261.Sacrifcialscene;1263.Erosleadingyouth a toa lute-playinggirl.—Case26.No.1763.TwosmallCupidswithchariot a drawnbyhinds,andaseriesofsmallvaseswithrepresentationsofchil dren.—Case27.Largevesselsofvariousshapesandperiods;1185. Womanpouringoutwineforadepartingwarrior;1183.Manplayingthe lyreandadornedby Nikewiththevictor'sfillet;1259.Womanfilling thekantharosofDionysosfromawineskin(poorlyexecuted); 11,037.Sky- phos,withTriptolemosin hisserpent-chariot,betweenDemeterandKore (Persephone).—Case28.Nos.1688,1689.Archaisticrepresentationsof Athenainfullarmourandinamartialattitudebeforeanaltar; adjacent, 1708.Pyx(casket),withPoseidonpursuingawoman;below,1718.Large vaseofalateperiod,in brightcoloursandgold,withrepresentationsof AphroditeandCupids.—Case29.Latered-figuredvases.—Case30. No.1385.Bell-shapedcratera,withApollo,betweenArtemisandLeto (Latona),playingthelyreontheomphalosofDelphi;1362.Dionysoson apanther,betweendancingMsenads.—Inthecorners,underglass,four vasesonloftybasesandwithtwodouble-handles:*1454.Adorningofa bride(beautifullydrawn);1172.Bridalprocession;twovaseswith toilette-scenes. TheX.X RoomcontainsRed-figuredVases(firsteightcases), Lekythiwithpolychromescenes(whiteoryellowishground),Vases withreliefs.BlackVaseswithwhiteornaments,etc. Case 33. Smallvaseswithchildren.—Cases34-36.Latered-figured CratersandAmphoreeinahastystyle.—Cases37-40.Red-figuredlekythi, chieflywithscenesfromdailylife;alsovesselsusedforthetoiletteand smalljugs,suchasNo.1304(Case39),witharepresentationof aservant carryinga childtoitsmother.—Case40.No.1630.Pyx,withCupids (excellentworkmanship).—Cases41-50.LargecollectionofLekythiwith polychromeornamentationonawhiteorcream-colouredground,generally consistingoffuneralscenes, andoftenexecutedwithmasterlydelicacy oftouchanddesign.AmongthebestareNos.1936,1937(Case45),and 1816(Case47).No.1955.Expressionofgriefbyraisingthehand;1939, 1928.GeniiofDeathandSleepinterringdeceased; the 1926.Hermesas conductorofthedead(Psychopompos)leadingthesoultoHades;1814, 1946.CharonabouttorowthedepartedsoulsovertheStyx.—Cases51- 53.VasesofaLaterPeriod,someofthemwithreliefsandmanyremark 104 Routes. ATHENS.NationalMuseum. able fortbeirelegantshapeandlustrousvarnish.Herealsoarevases inhumanformorin theshapeofhuman(negro)andanimalheads: 2076.Gracefulfemalefigurewithwings^ 2060.Aphroditeemergingfrom the shell;tineblackram'shead,varnished;anumberofwell-executed humanfeet.—Case66.Vote*ofalateforminblack,withwhiteornament ation.—Cases56,57.Smalltoilettearticles.—Case58.DrinkingVes sels;above,Kantharoi,suchasDionysosisrepresentedasholding; below, smallvesselsimitation in ofwineskins.—Cases59-63.Shallowvessels andfragmentsofvases, includingseveralfoundintheSanctuaryofthe Kabyri,atThebes.Case63alsocontainsstringsofglassbeads,anda mass(No.10,543)ofastragaliorknuckle-bones.—Wenowturntothe casesinthemiddleoftheroom.InCases65-68considerableinterestat tachestothe curioussemi-cylindricalvessels,theupperendsofwhich arepaintedinimitationofscales,whilethesidesandclosedendsare adornedwithreliefsordesigns.TheiruseisshowninthesceneofNo. 2179,wherethewomanhasplacedthecylinderonherkneeasasupport forhersewing.OneofthelinestisKo.1629,showingAphroditewithher companionsandthecontestbetweenPeleusandThetis.Theothersusu allyrepresentscenesfromthewomen'sapartments.Abovethemirrors aredoubleterracottadisks,usedforwindingyarn,withrepresentations ofPeleusandThetis(No.2192)andEuropaonthebull(No.2350).The samecase.containspaintingsonterracottaplaques(Pinakes),thelargest andbest-preservedofwhichwasfoundatEleusisanddepictstheEleus- iniandeities.—Case35,containinglargered-figuredcratersandamphorse ofcarelessexecution,rankswiththe casesofsimilarvesselsbythewall, mentionedabove.—Cases77-84containa collectionofglass vessels, mostofthemwithlongnecksandsomeofthemwithirridescentcolours. IntheadjoiningcasearetheobjectsfoundintheTomboftheFallenat Chaeronaea; inNo.9801wenoticetheinjuriesonthebonesandthecutson theskull.—Cases85-92.OrnamentedTerracottaLamps,includingamass oftheselampsstickingtogether,foundinanovenoutsidetheDipylon, intowhichtheyhadevidentlybeenputreadyforbaking.—Case54 containslargecratersandamphoraesimilartothoseintheoppositeCase55, bythewall.—ThecollectionendswithtwotombsfromtheKerameikos (p.37). The EpigraphicalMuseum(arrangedbyDr.Lolling),whichis unitedwiththeNationalMuseum,isdepositedinthelowerrooms ofthebuilding.Theentranceisbesidethecustodian'shutoppo sitethemiddleoftheS.side(adm.daily9-12,exceptand Sun. holidays).Thisvaluablecollectionofinscriptionsfillsfourlarge hallsandalargecourt.

IntheRuedePatitia,*/4M.fartheron,areextensiveCavalry Barracks,On.thelargedrilling-groundadjacent(7iXar£taTou,'Apeajs), infrontofa smallchurch,nowstandsmonument the erectedin 1843inmemoryofthosesoldiersofthe'SacredBand'whofellat Dragatsanion.Thiswasavolunteerbodyof students,ledbySoutzos andDrakoulis.ThemonumentformerlystoodneartheUniversity, —3/4M.Patisia.

Montagnesdel'Argolide Nouv.-PhalèreMunichie

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Walks. ATHENS. 8.Route.105

e. WalksnearAthens. ThePalaceGarden,withitsshadywalks,hasbeenalready mentionedatp.47.Theviewsenjoyedfromthetopsofthehills oftheNymphs,thePnyx,andPhildpapposaresostrikingthatmost visitorstoAthenswillseekanopportunityofrepeatingthewalk describedatpp.89-72.Theroutemaybevariedbydivergingto theS.W.attheObservatoryandwalkingtotherailwayandthe bedoftheIlissos; totheS.ofthelatterisabroadroad,which leadsroundthebaseoftheHillPhiWpappos of inthedirection sftheOlympieion,whencewemayreturntothePlacela deCon- otitutionbythePhalerontramway(p.36;comp.PI.D,8).This circuittakesfrom1 to1'/2Qr-i thefirstpartofitcommandsa constantviewof theplainofPhaleronandthesea,andin the latterpart,afterroundingthecornerofthePhil6papposhill,we havebeforeusthestrikingviewoftheAcropolisfromtheS.,while totherightarethecolumnsoftheOlympieion,withtheLykabettos inthebackground. The Lykabettos,thefinely-shapedhilltotheN.E.ofthe town,whichformssocharacteristicafeatureinmostoftheviews ofAthens,itselfcommandsasplendidpanorama.Theascentmay bemadeeitherfromtheS.E.orfromtheN.W.side(comp.PI.H, 3,4);theformeristhemostusualwayfromthehotelsinthe PlacedelaConstitution.WefollowtheKephislaRoad,onthe N.ofthePalace,tothe cornerofthePalaceGarden,thenturnto theleft,andafterafewpacescrossavacantspaceobliquelytothe right.In 6min.afterleavingthePlacedelaConstitutionwe reachthereservoiroftheTownAqueduct(Ae5a(ievf|;445ft.), wherethereisasmallcafe"commandingafineview.Thisaque ductwasbegunthe byEmp.Hadrian(p.44)andcompletedby T.AntoninusPiusaboutthemiddleofthesecondcenturyofour era.Acarefulexaminationin1847revealedthatthestructure wasstillavailable,andin1855and1861-69weremadetherepairs andalterationsnecessarytofititfortheresumptionofitsolddu ties.ThewaterisbroughtfromMt.PentelikonvifiAmpelokipi. Apath,divergingtotheleftatagroupoffivecypressesabove theaqueduct,leadstotheview-pointsmentionedbelow.Prom theaqueductweascendbya steeppath,partlycutintherock, tothe(i/2hr.)topofthe'lykabettos(910ft.; PI.H,3).The keeperofthelittleChapelofSt.Georgeproffers herethevis itora chair (201.theoffertory). in Theview,whichisseento greatestadvantagebymorningoreveninglight,embracesthetown ofAthens,withtheAcropolisandtheAtticplainaroundit,the Piraeus,theBayofPhaleron,andthewholeoftheSaronicGulf, withtheislandsofJJginaandSalamisandthedistantmountains ofArgolis.TotherightofSalamisrisethemountainsofCorinth 106 Route*. ATHENS. Walks. and Megara; infront,cuttingshorttheplainandhidingagreat part ofBay theofEleusis,arethemountainsofSkarnianga,the ancient^Egaleos,crossedbytheDaphniPassandadjoinedbythe Korydallosand(farthertotheN.)Mt.Parnes.Betweentheseand Pentelikon.whichrisestotheN.E.,stretchestheupperAtticplain. TotheE.standsMt.Hymettos. <• The roadontheN.W.side,acontinuationoftheRuedeSina (PI.F,4),leadspastagrotesquerock,namedtheFroschmaul (Frog'sMouth;PI.F, G,3)bytheGermansinAthens.Nearthis reck,oppositetheFrenchArchaiologicalSchool(p.94),isafa vouritespringoffreshwater.Asteepascentofalout7min.from theFrog'sMouth,pastaclumpof agaves,bringsustoarockcom mandinga finerviewofthetownanditsenvironsthanthatfrom thetopoftheLykabettos.TheaccompanyingPanoramaistaken fromthispoint,andobviatesanyfartherdescriptionoftheview. Theabove-mentionedpathfromtheaqueducttothispointcontin uestoascend,beyondanangleofrock,totheprettilysituated ChapelofHagiosIsidoros. TheKolon6s,thestoried,olive-surroundedhomeofSophocles andthesceneofhis'CEdipusColoneus',liesaboutl'/2M.tothe N.W.ofthePlacedelaConcorde(p.94).WemaytaketheHue duPire'eandthenturn"totherightbytheKolokythouroad,along whichrunsthetramway(p.36)toKolokythou(p.107).—About l/aM.beyondthebridgeoutsidethetownliesontherightthe ChapelofHagiosKonstantinos. About300yds.fartheronwequit the roadandproceedtotherighttowardstheflathillofKolonos, distinguishedbytwoconspicuouswhitetombstones.Thisisthe ancientKolonosHippios.Theneglectedstonesmarkthegravesof theaccomplishedantiquaries,OttfriedMutter(d.1840)andCharles Lenormant(d.1859).AlittletotheN.isanotherhill,which seemstohavebeensacredtoDemeter.TheviewofAthensand itsAcropolisfromtheKolonosiswonderfullybeautiful. To theS.orS.W.oftheKolonoslaytheAcademy,alarge pieceofgrounddedicatedtoAthenaandnamedafterAkademos, anearlyowner.ItwassurroundedwithwallsbyHipparchos, sonofPeisistratos,andwasatfirstusedforgymnasticexercises. Kimonlaiditoutwithwalksandembellisheditwithtreesand fountains,and'theolive-grovesofAcademe'becamea favourite resortofPlatoandotherpublicteachers.Throughthegreatphil osopherthenamehasbecomecelebrated,andhasbeenuniver sallychosenasthedesignationofthemodernabodesofscience andart.Twelveolivesofhoaryantiquity(jjtopioii),saidtohave beenpropagatedfromshootsofthesacredtreeofAthena(p.72), stoodundertheespecialprotectionofthe goddess.Beneaththeir shadewerealtarsofZeusKataebates(thedescenderonthelightning) orMdrios,ofAthenaherself,andofHercules.Thesurrounding districtisdescribedbySophoclesinhiscelebratedstrophes:

Walks. ATHENS. 8.Route.107 'Friend,in ourlandofvictor-steedsthouartcome TothisHeaven-fosteredhaunt,Earth'sfairesthome, GleamingGolonos,wherethenightingale Incoolgreencovertwarbletheverclear, Truetothedeep-flushedivyandthedear Divine,impenetrableshade, From wilderedboughsandmyriadfruitagemade, Sunlessatnoon,stormlessineverygale. Wood-rovingBacchusthere,withmazyround, Andhisnymphnursesrangetheunoffendedground1. (Lewis Campbell'sTranslation.) TheAcademywasonceconnectedwiththeDipylon(pp.87,89) byaroadflankedwithmonumentstoPeriklesandothereminent statesmenandwarriors.ThegraveofPlatowasalsoformerly shownintheneighbourhoodofhisfavouritehaunt. At thehamletofKolokythou,wherethetramwayterminates, thereareseveralrestaurantswithgardensprettilysituatedonthe Kephisos. Anotherpleasantexcursionof1-1V2nr-mayDemadefromthe ChapeloftheHagiaTrias(p.54;PI.A,4)alongthe'SacredWay' toEleusisandthroughtheolive-groveintheplainoftheKephisos Ontheleft,aboutY2M.fromthetown,liestheBotanicalGarden ([3oT

9. ExcursionsinAttica. 'Quocunqueingredimur,inaliquamhislwiampedemponimus.' Cicero. Thepeninsulaof'Attlxt)orAttica(properly'Axtixt], from in-ri],arockybeach)has anareaof975sq.M.,with190,000in habitants.ItisboundedontheN.W.bytherangesofKithaeron (nowElands')andFames(nowOzea),whichattaina heightof 4600ft.,andconsistsofaflat,undulatingdistrict,brokenupbythe mountaingroupsofPentelikon(3640ft.)andHymettos(3370ft.). InthemiddleofitliestheplainofAthens(toneolov),which stretches,withabreadthof21/2-3M.,fromMt.Parnestothesea,a distanceof14M.Thedrycalcareoussoilisadaptedforlittleve getationexcepttheoliveandthefig,thoughthevineisnowassi- 108 Route9. PIRAEUS. Excursions duously cultivated.Thesupplyofwaterisscanty.Thewaterof theKephisosisexhaustedbyirrigationbeforeitreachesthesea, andinsummerthebedoftheIlisosisasa rulealmostdry. Largeherdsofsheepandgoatsareseengrazingineverydirection. Thebarren natureofAtticsoilisnoticedbyThucydides,who considersitthereasonwhythecountrywassparedforeignim migrationandremainedinthehandsoftheIonians.Theinhab itantsofmodemAttica,whichisgroupedinonenomarchyorpro vincewithBceotia,Salamis,and^Egina,arealmostallofAlbanian descent. fMosto thefollowing excursionsmayeachheaccomplishedinone day.ManyofthemostinterestingpointsmaynowbereachedbyRail way.Partiesof3-4mayhirea Carriagefor20-30dr.ormoreaccord ingtothetimeanddistance,whilesingletravellersmayobtainaSaddle Horseforabout10dr.aday.TheinconvenienthabittheGreek coach menhaveofstoppingatnearlyeverywaysidetavernhas probablybeen alreadyexperiencedbythetravelleronhiswayfromthePiraeusto Athens.Travellerswhoareunacquaintedwiththelanguageandcus tomsofthecountryshouldnotattempttheexcursionsoccupyingseveral days,or,indeed,anyofthe longerexcursions,withoutaCourier(p.xiv). —Provisionsshouldinmostcasesbe broughtfromAthens,andrefresh mentsofthiskindareincludedinthe'pension1chargesof thehotels. a. ThePiraeus. The railwayfromthePirceustoAthensandCorinthisnotintendedfor localtraffic.ThosewhomaketheexcursionfromAthensdosomostcon venientlybythePiraeusEailway,trains therunningeveryViihr.(hourly before8a.m.andafter8p.m.)in20min.(fares1dr.,601.; return1dr.60, 1dr. 151.).Stations,seebelow;theticket-clerksspeakFrench. Tramway fromAthenstoPhaleron,seep.36. The RailwayfromAthenstothePibjeus,openedin1869 andextendedintotheheartofthecityin1893,startsattheStation inthePlacedelaConcorde(PI.D,3),passesundertheRued'Athene- byatunnel990yds.inlength(5min.; electriclightinthecarriages), touchestheAtonattirakiStation(PI.C,5)intheRued'Hermes,and thenrunsthroughcuttingstotheStationattheTheseion(PI.B,5). Fartherontheviewisalsolimitedbythelowleveloftherailway; thebestviewisobtainedtotheright,wheretheolive-groveandN. partTheoftheonlyplainintermediateofAthensstationisoverlooked.isPhaleron,forNewPhaleron {Hotel,withgoodrestaurant;BathEstablishments,bath401.),a favouriteresortoftheAtheniansforsea-bathinginJune,July, andAugust,withanopen-airtheatre(comp.p.36).—About '/4M.totheN.ofPhaleron,betweenthetwolinesofrailway,is theMonumentofKaraiskakis,thebraveandshrewdleaderof the Klephts,whowasmortallywoundedhereinasortieonMay6th, 1827,thedaybeforegrand theattackonthecampofKioutagihe hadplannedforthereliefofAthens(comp.p.46). The trainskirtsthebaseoftheprojectinghill,wherethe southernmostoftheLongWallsjoinedthefortificationsofthe

in Attica. PIRAEUS. 9.Route.109 Piraeus(comp.below).Themonumentonthehillcommemorates theFrenchandEnglishsoldierswhodiedatthePiraeusin1854. Piraeus.—BoththeRailwayStations(fortheoldlineAthens to andforthePeloponnesianRailway)areonthe sideofthetown,near theharbour. Hotels. HotelSt.Pktersbourg, HoteldesEtkangers,bothin thePlaced\Apollon,ontheK.bankoftheharbour,R.2-5dr.,French andItalianspoken.—CafesinthePlacedeThemistocle.—Thehotels andrestaurantsofthePiraeusarelittlefrequentedbystrangers. Tramwayfromthestationstothecustom-house,151.—SteamTram waytoNewPhaleron,151.(nothrough-carstoAthens). SteamboatOffices,allinthe Placed'Apollon. BritishConsul,E.6.B.Maxse%Esq.—AmericanVice-Consul,A.Mac- dottall,Esq. ThePiraeusorPeiraeeus(pronouncedPeeraeSvs),ItalianPi- reo, FrenchLePirle, theflourishingseaportofAthens, with 34,300inhah.,isinitspresentaspectentirelyofmoderngrowth. "WhenAthenswaschosenastheseatgovernment of in1835,the verynameofitsancientporthadbeenforgotten.Agroupoffisher men'shutsonitssitewascalledPortoLeone,fromthefigure ofalionwhichwascarriedoffbytheVenetiansin1687andnow standsinfrontofthearsenalatVenice.Since1835spacious quays,wideandregularstreets,andan exchangehavebeencon structed,andthePiraeusisnowsecondonlytoPatrasas acom mercialtown,andisyearlyacquiringagrowingshareofthe^Egean seatradewhichtwentyyearsagowasalmostmonopolizedbySyra. Oncemoreasinantiquitythelineharbourisfilledwithmerchant menfromforeignshores,whilealongthebanksliethesmaller vessels,whichtransactthetradewiththeinsularandotherseaports ofGreece.Afewmen-of-warmaygenerallybeseenhereatanchor, thoughnotthosesailingundertheGreekflag. IncomparisonwithjEgina,Corinth,andthecoast-townsofAsia Minor,Athensenteredlists theofcommerceatalateperiod.Eventhe legislationofSolonisbasedtoagreatextentupontheassumptionthat theAtheniansareapeopleofhusbandmenandcattle-breeders.Theirnaval instinctsmayperhapsdated befromthecaptureofSalamis(p.114). DowntothePersianwars,however,theopenroadsofPhaleronafford edampleaccommodationforthefewvesselsownedbytheAthenians. ToThemistoklesbelongsthecreditoffoundingthenavalpreeminence ofAthens, inpersuadinghisfellow-citizenstodevotetheproceedsof thesilver-minesofLaurion(p.130)the to formationof afleet.Healso discernedtheadvantagesofthegulfofPiraeus,whichwasatthattime separatedfromthemainlandbyastripofswampyground(Balae), and begantolayouta capaciousharbour.Aftertheendofthewarswith Persiathefortificationsofthenewnavalandcommercialharbourswere completedinhaste,andThemistoklesisevensaidtohavecontem- plntedthetransferenceofthewholeofAthenstothePiraeus.Under Periklesthebuildingoftheseaportwascompletedonauniformplan bythecelebratedHippodamosofMiletos, whoafterwardslaidoutthe townsofRhodesandThurii.ThePirseus,likeRhodes,andpartly elfloonaccountofitssituation,soonacquiredthereputationofbeing oneofthefinestcitiesofthetime,andtheAthenianscomparedits boat-houseswiththePropyleeaandtheParthenon.Theconstruction ofthe'LongWalls1broughtthePirseusstill intocloserunionwith 110 Routed. PIRMVS. Excursions Athensandmadethetownanditsportasitwereonecitywithtwo centres.ThePireeus,owingtotheinfluxthe ofMetoeki,orsubjectcitizens, attractedbytheopportunitiesforindustryandtrade,becamethechief seatofthedemocracy,Athens whilewastheabodeoftheconservativeele mentrepresentedbytheoriginalfreecitizens.ThuswhenSpartasubdued AthensinB.C. 404aftera prolongedcontest,oneoftheconditionsim posedbythearistocraticvictorswasthedestructionoftheLongWalls andthefortificationsandship-housesofthePiraeus.And whenThra&y~ bouloteffectedtheoverthrowoftheThirtyTyrantsinthefollowingyear, hisfirststepwastomakehimselfmasterofthePiraeus,relyingonthe cordialsupportofitsdemocraticinhabitants.Thefortificationsofthe harbourwererestoredafterthenavalvictoryofKnidosgainedby Konon overPisandrosinB.C.393,and Athensanditsseaportbothenteredona secondperiodofprosperity.KononerectedatthePireeusasanctuaryof Euplcea,or theKnidianAphrodite,whileKephisodotoscarvedastatueof AthenaSoteira,or thesaviour,whichwaserectedbythealtarofZeus Soter.Theship-houseswerealsorebuilt.Thefinestadditiontothe buildingsofthePireeuswastheArsenalofFfiilo,constructedduringthe ruleLykourgos of (p.43), totheN.E.ofthe militaryharbour.From B.C.322to229 thecitadelofMunichia,formingthe E.partoftheforti fications,wasoccupiedbytheMacedonians.InB.C.86thePireeuswas destroyedbySulla,andlostitsimportanceforthenext1900years. The townofPiraeus,withitsbroadandstraightstreets, offers noattractiontothevisitor,exceptthesmallhutinterestingmuseum ofantiquitiesintheOymnasium,inthePlaceKora'is(inthePlan erroneouslytermedKaraiskakis; entr.fromtheRueKaraiskakis, adm.1.). 50Thecollectionincludesseveralgoodtombstonesand afewstatuesofemperorsandvasesoftheSomanperiod. An interestingwalk,however,occupyingabout2l/%hrs.,may betakenroundtheHarbour.Onleavingthestationweturnto therightandproceedalongtheN.basinoftheharbour,nowvery shallow,tothepeninsulaofEetioneia.In8min.,beyondachurch yardCEXiuta),wereachanancientwall,10-12ft.thick,withsev eralroundtowers,whichascendsfromtheharbourtowardsthetop ofthehill,wherethereisagateway.Fartheron(comp.thePlan) areothervestigesoftheoldfortifications,allprobablypartsofthe workoftheCouncilofFour Hundred,whoattainedpowerinB.C.411. We nowcrossbyboattotheKantharos,orNavalHarbour, wheretheAthenianwar-triremeslay, guardingthemouthof the harbourandthemerchantmeninthebasin.TheW.partofthe Pirseanpeninsula, shapedsomewhatlikealeaf(seePlan)and risingtoaconsiderableheightinthemiddle,bore,asisnowbeliev ed,thenameofAkte.Totherightisaloftywallenclosinga space,withasimpleRoyalVilla.IntheS.E.cornerofthisground, whichisreachedbyafatiguingpaththroughagapinthewallfarther upandthenthroughaquarry, aretwotombshewnintheliving rock, oftencoveredbywaterbutaccessibleatlowtide; thefirstis commonlysupposedtobetheTombofThemistokles.Therounded blockslyingaboutheremayhavebeenpartofanancientlighthouse orbeacon.Closebyisa modernLighthouse,totheN.ofwhich (nowscarcelyaccessible)istheTombofMiaulis,plain amarble monumentinmemoryofanavalherointheWarofLiberation^d. in Attica. VIUAV8. 9.Route.HI 1835).—Here,aswellasfartheralongthepathwhichnowskirts thebeach,wecantracethecourseofthemassivewallstrengthened withtowers,whichdefendedtheentirepeninsulaonthesidenext theopensea.Therocksintheinteriorthe ofpeninsulashow numeroustracesofancientdwellingsandquarries.Atthehighest point(187ft.)isthesignalusedfortelegraphingtoAthensthear rivalofthesteamboats.TotheS.E.,nearthe springofTzirloneri, isacafe",theseatsinfrontofwhichaffordacharmingview.The ancientnameofthesmallbaywasPhreattys. TotheE.isthebayorharbourofZea,theentranceofwhich wasfortifiedinantiquity.Tracesofthesubstructuresofthesheds orship-houses(veraooixoi)forthereceptionoftheancienttriremes arevisibleunderthewater.ThecelebratedSkeuothekaofPhilo, anarsenalcompletedabout330B.C., stoodneartheN.E.side. NeartheS.W.comerofthebayaretracesoftherowsofseatsand foundationsofthestageoftheso-calledNewTheatre. Thebroadroadskirtstheedgeofthebay,ontheS.E.shoreof whichisagroupofvillasfrequentedbytheAtheniansinsummer. Totheleftareafewancienttombsandvotiveniches.Theroad thenrunsatthebaseofthehillofMunichiaandreachestheHar bourMunichia, of wherethereareremainsofantiquitysimilarto thoseinthebayofZea.Itfinallyleadsbacktothetown, passing nearthemonumenttoFrenchandEnglishsoldiersmentionedat p.108. The ascentoftheHillofMunichia(280ft.),theAcropolis ofthePiraeus, israthertryingfromthesidenextthesea,but thereisaneasypathontheN.W.slope.ItwasherethatThrasy- boulosandafterwardstheMacedoniansentrenchedthemselves.The extensiveviewembracestheBayofPhaleron, Mt.Hymettos, the Atticplain, theAcropolisofAthens, theLykabettos, andMt. Parties;totheS.aretheislandsofHydra,^Egina,Salamis,andthe tinyPsyttaleia,andalsothetownofPirseus.TotheW.oftheChap elofSt.Eliasistheentranceofadeepsubterraneanpassage,with 165dilapidatedstepsj itisnowcalledArethusaandissupposed tobetheshaftofanancientwell.OntheW.slopeisthecircular siteoftheOldTheatreandtracesofrowsofseats(difficultfind). to ThevalleytotheS.ofthehillwiththeAnglo-Frenchmonument, outsidetheancienttown-walls,issupposedbyProf.Curtiustobe thesiteoftheancientHippodromeforchariotandhorseraces.— Fromthispointwecanreachtherailwayin afew minutesand followthelinetothestationofPhaleron(p.108). b.fSalamis. A visitfromthePirseus'tothesceneoftheBattleop Salamis,in cludingashortinspectionoftheisland,takesabout6-8hrs.Wemay eitherwalktothe(2hrs.)ferryandcrossthere;or,ifthewindbefavour able,takeasailing-boatdirectfromthePiranistoAmbelaki(ca.6dr., 112 Route9. SALAMIS. Excursions whole day10dr.).—Touristsmaysometimes,byspecialpermissionofthe captain,availthemselvesofthesmallsteamerwhichpliesdailyfrom thePirseus,startingabout7a.m.,totheArsenal(p.113).—Thosewhose timeislimitedmaycontentthemselveswithasurveyofthebayfrom Keratdpyrgos,whichisaccessiblebycarriage(thereandback2hrs.: fare, seep.109). Onquittingtherailway-stationatthePiraeus,weproceedal mosttothechurchyardmentionedonp.110.Herewefollowthe newroadtotheright,whichbringsusin40min.totheChapelof St.GeorgeatKerazini.In8min.morewepassasmalleminence ontheleft,crownedwiththeruinsofwhatissupposedtohavebeen anancientsanctuaryofHercules.TheridgetotherightisAft. MgaleosorKorydallos,thebaseofwhichiswashedbythesea.The hillinfronthaslongbornethenameoftheThroneofXerxes,from itsidentificationwiththe'rockybrow'onwhichXerxessatinhis silver-footedchairtowatchtheprogressofthebattle.Asancient writers,however,emphasizehispropinquitytohis ships,itismore probablethathetookuphispositionontherockypromontoryof Keratdpyrgos,whichprojectsthe intobayfartheron.Apowder- magazinehasbeenerectedhere. WhethertheKeratopyrgosisorisnotthepointfromwhichXerxes witnessedthedestructionofhisarmament,itcertainlycommandsan admirablesurveyofthestrait,where,onthe19thdayofBoedromion (Sept. 20th),intheyearB.C.480,theGreekswonthemomentousbattle thatsecuredtheirfutureindependence.TotheS. liestheisletof Psyttaleia,whichformedthecentralpointofthePersianarray.The Persianfleetconsistedofabout1000vessels,onehalfofwhichpush edforwardtotheSalaminianpromontoryofEynosura,whiletheother halfadvancedalongtheAtticcoast,whichwasoccupiedbythePersian army.About600pickedmenwerestationedbynightonPsyttaleia tocutofftheGreekswhoshouldbewreckedanddrivenonshore. The300vesselsthe ofGreekfleetcastanchoronthenightbefore thebattleintheBayofAmbelaki.Aristidea,whohadbeenatonce recalledfrombanishment,andalsoseveralTeneandesertersbroughtthe newsthatXerxesintendedtofollowthecunningadviceofThemistokles andtotrytodestroythewholeoftheGreekfleetatasingleblow.The Peloponnesians, whohadhithertobeenwavering,werethusforcedto giveuptheideaof retiringandcastintheirlotwiththeothers.The lasthoursofthenightwerespentinarrangingthelineofbattle.The AthenianvesselsformedtherightwingoftheGrecianfleetandwere opposedtothePhoeniciansandCyprians; inthecentreweretheships ofiEginaandEuboeaoppositeCilicians theandPamphilians;totheleft wasthePeloponnesiansquadron,facingtherightorIonianwingofthe Persianarmament. 'But whenatlengththesnowy-steededday Bursto'erthemain,allbeautifultosee, FirstfromtheGreeksatunefulshoutuprose, Well- omened,and,withreplicationloOd, Leapttheblitheechofromtherockyshore. Fear seizedthePersianhost,nolonertricked Byvainopinion\ notlikewaveringflight BillowedthesolemnpseanoftheGreeks, But liketheshoutofmentobattleurging Withlusty,cheer.Thenthefiercetrumpet'svoice Blazed o^erthemain; andonthesaltseaflood Forthwiththeoars,withmeasuredplash,descended. Andalltheirlines,withdexterousspeeddisplayed, Stood withopposingfront.Therightwingfirst, in Attica. SALAMIS. 9.Route.113 Then thewholefleetboredown,straight and uprose Amightyshout.SonsoftheGreeks,advance! Yourcountryfree,yourchildrenfree,yourwives! ThealtarsofyournativeGodsdeliver, Andyourancestraltombs.—All'snowatstake! Alikesalutefromourwholelineback-rolled InPersianspeech.Normoredelay,butstraight Triremeontrireme,brazenbeakonbeak Dashedfurious.AGreekshipledontheattack AndfromtheprowofaPhoenicianstruck Thefigure-head-,andnowthegrappleclosed Ofeachshipwithhisadversedesperate. Atfirstthemainlineof thePersianfleet Stoodtheharshshock;soon buttheirmultitude Becametheirruin\ inthenarrowfrith Theymightnotusetheirstrength,and,jammedtogether, Theirshipswithbrazenbeaksdidbiteeachother, Andshatteredtheirownoars.MeanwhiletheGreeks Strikeafterstrokedealtdexterousallaround, Tillourshipsshowedtheirkeels,andthebluesea Wasseennomore,withmultitudeofships Andcorpsescovered.Allthe shoreswerestrewn, Andtheroughrocks,withdead;till,intheend, Eachshipinthebarbarichost,thatyet Hadoars,inmostdisorderedflightrowedoff. Asmenthatfishfortunnies,sotheGreeks, Withbroken booms,andfragmentsofthewreck, Struckoursnaredmen,and hackedthem,thatthesea. Withwailandmoaning,waspossessedaround, Tillblack-eyednightshotdarknesso'erthe fray/ AsunderthesecircumstancesthePersianfleethadnotimetotake onboardthetroopslandedonPsyttaleia,Aristideshastilycollecteda bandofarmedcitizens,whowiththewomenhadwatchedthecombat fromtheshore,landedontheisland,and,undertheveryeyesofthe loudlylamentingXerxes,destroyed: 'ThebloomofallthePersianyouth,inspirit Thebravest,andinbirththenoblestprinces*. Theabovepassage,fromthe'Persians'1of.flSschylus(translatedby Prof.J.S.Blackie),istheaccountofthebattleplacedinthemouthofthe messengersenttoinformQueenAtossa,intheroyalpalaceatSusa,ofits, disastrousresult.jEschylushimselffoughtinthebattleandeightyears later(inMarch,472B.C.)histragedywasperformedintheTheatreof DionysosatAthens.Wemaythereforeplaceimplicitconfidenceinthe accuracyofhisaccount. FromKeratopyrgostheroadleadsalongtheshorefor2M.more, commandinganexcellentviewofthebay andtheisland,andends attheferry(Perama)toSalamis.Whilewaitingfortheboatthe travellermayrefreshhimselfwithmasticha(p.xxv)attheferry- honse(101.).Thepassage(1dr.; bargainnecessary)usuallytakes abontifehr.,butvariesaccordingtothestateofthewind.Onthe wayitpassesneartheislandofSt.George,probablyoneofthe ancientPharmakousae,onwhichtheGraveCirce ofusedtobe pointedout.—Ontheoppositecoast,totheN.W.oftheferry,lies theChiefStationofthe'GreekFleet, withtheNavalArsenal(steamer tothePiraeus,seep.112). ^TheislandofSalamis,36sq.M.inarea,with6300inhab.(al mostexclusivelyAlbanians),owesitsname('Shalam','Salem', Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 8 114 Route9. SALAM1S. Excursions peacer o rest)toPhoeniciansettlers.IntheIliaditappearsasthe homeoftheelderAjax,thesonofTelamon,afterwardsworshipped hereas anationalhero.Thepossessionoftheislandwaslongdis putedbyMegaraAthens, andbutwasatlastpermanentlysecured forthelatterpowerbySolonandPeisistratos(B.C.698).Muchof thesurfaceisruggedandbarren,bntconsiderablequantitiesof wineandgrainareproduced.Theancientcapitallayatthelanding- place('skala')ofthepresentAmbeldki(1200inhab.),attheN.W. angleofthebayofthatname,andtracesofitarestillvisibleunder thewater.Thehillwiththewindmill,ontheS.slopeofwhich theancienttownlay,maybeascendedforthesakeoftheview. Thosewhowishamoreextensivesurveyoftheislandshould followthebroadroadcrossingrange aoflowhillsto(2i/2M.) Koulouri(1200inhab.),thepresentcapital.Thereareseveraltaverns andcafe'shere,butthosewhodesirenight-quartersaredependent onprivatehospitality.Thetown, nowofficiallynamedSalamis, liesontheN.E.bankof abayofitsownname,whichrunsdeeply intotheW.sideoftheislandandfrommanypointsofviewappears completelyland-locked.Therearenoremainsofancientbuildings here.Onfestivalstheyoungmenandmaidens,attiredingaily- colouredcostumes,hereperformanumberofcurious dances,which aresupposedtohavepreservedthefeaturesofavery ancientperiod. ApleasantpathleadstotheW.andthentotheN.W.fromKoulouri, throughthe valleybetweenthehillofSt.Eliasandthethreeconspicu ouswindmills,totheconventofFhaneromene,thesceneofamuchfre quentedPanegyris(Sept.4th),andthencetothe0/4hr.)Pirama,orferry, ofMegara.Hereremainsofantiquityareagainencountered,belonging toasmallfortnamedBoudoron.ThepassageofthestraittakesV*hr. (20-301.),andthewalkfromtheferrytoMegaraaboutIV2hr.(seep.148). c. Eleusis. Railwayinabout1hr. (fares3dr.20,2dr.651.)return-fares5dr. 10, 4dr.151.).—ThistripisbettermadebyCarriage(ca.20dr.),inabout 2>/2hrs.—Goodwalkersrequire4hrs.Astay2 ofhrs.atEleusisia ample.TheRailwayRestaurantistolerable. RailwaytoEleusis,beginningatthePeloponnesianstation (PI.B,1),seepp.147,148. RoadfromAthenstoEleusis.The'SacredWay'toEleusis beginsattheDipylonandtheChapeloftheHayiaTrias(PI.A,4; p.87)andasfarastheKephisos('^br.'swalk)hasbeendescribed atp.107.Onthebankofthisstreamstoodthe'HolyFig-Tree', presentedbyDemetertoPhytalosinrecognitionofthehero'shos pitality.Fartheron,totheright,isaKaffenionbesideapowder- factory; totheleftweobtainaviewofthePirsus.Theancient road,withwhichthemodernonecorrespondsprettyclosely,was linedalmostallthewaytoEleusiswithtombstones,tracesofWhich arevisibleatseveralpoints. The roadnowascendstheravineintersectingtherangeofAft. MaaleosfromE.toW.(1hr.).Totheleftisa lunaticasylum.

EEUL SI S, THE EMPLEoftheMYSTERIES ANDHET PROPYL/LA. in Attica. DAPHNI. 9.Route.115 Beyond thehillofSt.Elias,totheright,theroaddescends.Farther on,totheright,isapoultry-farmandonbothsidesisagroupof cafe's,wherethehorBesarewatered.Totheleftisthe(*/4hr.) decayedConventofDapb.nl,firstmentionedin1263,whichhas fallenintodecaysincetheWarofLiberation.Theentranceison the E.sideoftheenclosingwall,oppositeawell.Thecourtcon tainssomeByzantinesculpturesandalsofew a fragmentsofIonic columnsandothermarblerelicsofthetempleofApollo,which ancientlyoccupiedthissite.Anumberofsculptures,foundinthe courseofexcavationsattheconventandontheSacredWay,are preservedin asmallchamber.Thechurchisgenerallyopen.The Byzantinemosaics,onagoldground,areinteresting,particularly thefigure'Christos of Pantokrator'inthedome.Inoneofthe vestibulesstandtwooldsarcophagi,oneofwhichbearsacoat-of- armswithfleurs-de-lis,indicatingthattheconventwasusedasa burial-placefortheFrankishdukesofthefamilyofDelaRoche (p.45).Theflightof stepsfront inoftheW.doorascendstoa terracecommandingaviewofpartofthebayofEleusis. Farthern o therocks,firsttotheleft,thentotheright,shownum eroustracesofthe'SacredWay'.Atthenarrowestpointofthepass, wherethebestpreservedpart ofSacred theWayislaidbare,are theremainsofsomemediaevalfortifications,whileintherocksto therightareseveralnichesforvotivestatuettes,withinscriptions. ThelatterprovethataTempleofAphroditeoncestoodhere; and tothisprobablybelongtheremainsofwallsunearthedinfrontof therock.Fine viewofthebayofEleusis,closedbythemountains ofSalamis.Asweapproachthesea(3/ihr.; tavern)aroaddiverges tothelefttothe('/4^r0disusedconventofSkarmangd,about3M. beyondwhichistheferrytoSalamis(p.113).Ontherightaremarks leftontherockinconstructingtheancientroad.Beyondthetwo saltlakescalledtheRheitoi,inwhichofyorethepriestsofEleusis alonehadarighttoflsh,liestheThriasianPlain,sonamedfrom theolddemeofThria.Eleusis,situatedbesidealongandnarrow ridge,nowcomesconspicuouslyintosight; infrontofusarethe chapelofthePanagfaanditsbelfry,whilehigheruptotherightis theToweroftheFranks.Beyondthevillage,totheleft,risethe mountainscalledKerata,or'Horns',fromtheirshape.Nearthe railway-stationofEleusistheroadtoThebes(p.175)divergesto theright.Totheleft,nearawell,muchfrequentedbytheEleu- sinians,aretheremainsofabridge,probablydatingfromthetime ofHadrian.Attheentrancetothe(H/2hr.)villageisthechapel ofZacharias(p.118). EleusisorLevsina,nowapoorandfever-hauntedvillage,with 1200inhabitants,chieflyAlbanians,isoneoftheoldestplacesin Attica,andappearsasseparate a 'town'evenaftertheconsolidating processofTheseusdescribedat p.39.ItwasthehomeofjEschy- lus,theearliestofthethreegreatGreektragedians,whowasborn 8* 1 16 Route9, ELEUSIS. Excursions here abouttheyearB.C.525.Thewidespreadcelebrityofits nameisderivedfromtheworshipofDenieter,the'Eleusinian Mysteries'which, ofbelievedtosymbolisethehighestandholiest feelingsofmankind,continuedtobesolemnlycelebrateddownto theendofthe4thcenturyofthepresentera. TheoldlegendrelatesthatDemeterinthe courseofherdespairing searchforher daughterPersephone(Proserpine)orKora,whohadbeen carriedoffbyHades(Pluto),arrivedatEleusisintheguiseofanoldwo manandwashospitablyreceivedintothehouseholdofKingKeleos.This kindnessthegoddessrepaidbygivingsomeseed-corntoTriptolemos,the sonofKeleos,and byteachinghimtheartofhusbandry.Thememory ofthisinestimablegift,whichraisedmenfromthenomadicstate of huntersandshepherdsandrenderedthemcapableofunitinginawell- orderedcommunity,wascelebratedtwicea yearattheGreaterand LesserEleusinia.ThefestivalsfellinthemonthsofAnthesterion(Feb.- March)andBoedromion(September)andwerethussynchronouswith theannualrevivalanddecayofnature.Thesameconnectionwasin dicatedinthepartofthestorywhichrecordsPersephone that waafin allyallowedtospendtwo-thirdsoftheyearwithhermother,whilefor theremainingthirdshedweltintheundergroundabodeofherhusband Hades,liketheseed-cornintheground.WiththecultofDemeterand PersephonewascloselyconnectedthatofJHonysosorlakchos, whowas alsoworshippedasteachingmentheadvantagesof socialunion.None buttheMysti,orinitiated,werepermittedtotake partintheEleusinia. Themostconspicuousfeatureofthefestivalwasthesolemntorch-light processionthatleftAthensontheeveningofthefifthdayofthegreater Eleusinia,andpassedalongthe 'SacredtoEleusis. Way''Thedetailsof theMysteriesarenowlostbeyondrecall,but'allourseriousauthorities agreethatthedoctrinetaughtintheMysterieswasa faithwhichre vealedtothemhopefulthingsabouttheworldtocome,andwhichnot somuchasacondition,butasaconsequenceoftftsclearerlight,this higherfaith,madethembettercitizensandbettermen1(Mahajfy's'Rambles andStudiesinGreece*1).Cicerowasoneoftheinitiatedandhasrecorded thatthe Mysteriestaught'notonlyto livehappily,buttodiewithafairer hope*. Those whoapproachfromtheRailwayStation(p.148)reach inabout5min.,totherightoftheentrancetothemodernvillage, theruinsofthePkopyljea,orgatewaytothesacredprecincts. ThefirstgroupofruinsbelongstotheGreaterorOuterPropylaea, perhapsbuiltbyHadrian,resemblingthoseof theAthenianAcro polisandfacingtheN. E.Sixmarblesteps,whichhavebeen brokenawayattheN.W,corner,ascendtothestylobatewhich supportedtheIoniccolumnsformingtheactualgateway.The basesoftworowsofthesearestillinsitu.About30pacestothe N.E.,andoutsidethesacredenclosure,arethesubstructuresofa smalltemple,whichisascribedtoArtemisPropylaea.Wenowpass throughtheouterPropylaea,turnslightlytotheleft,passsomesub structures,andreachthe LesserorInnerPropylaea,thefrontofwhich wasturnedtowardstheN.Thisstructureconsistsoftwoparallelwalls, 33ft.apart,in themiddleofwhichtheopeningisnarrowedbytrans versewallstoawidthof13ft.Oppositetheant®inthegatewaystood twocolumns,thefloridcapitalsofwhichwere,perhaps,surmounted bytripods.Theemblemsandinscriptionsonthefragmentsofthe architrave,whicharestrewnontheground,provethatthegatewas in Attica. ELEUStS. 9.Route,ti? restoredinthefirstcenturybeforeourerabyAppiusClaudiusPul- cher.—Intherockstotheright(S.W.)isagrotto,infrontof •whicharethefoundationsofabuilding,asmallrock-staircase,etc. Theobjectsdiscoveredhereseemtoshowthatthiswasasanctuary ofPluto. ' Passingalargecuttingintherock,withaflightofsteps,we nextreachtheplateauonwhichstoodthegreatTempleofthe Mysteries(Muotixo?2t)X<5c).Theoriginaltemplewasdestroyed bythePersians,andthelaterstructure,begunbyIktinos(p.66) underPerikles,wascompletedbythearchitectPhilonabouta hundredyearslater(ca.B.C.311).Thetempleissaidtohavebeen destroyedbytheGothsunderAlaricin396A.D.,downtowhich periodthe mysterieshadbeenregularlycelebratedwithalltheir ancientsplendour.Aseriesoffruitlessexcavationswerecarried onfromthecloseoflastcenturydowntorecenttimes,butitwas reservedfortheArchaeologicalSociety(p.94)tolaybaretheen tiretempleinitsexcavationssince1882.ThePorticoofPhilon, infrontoftheS.E.side,is183ft.longand37'/2ft-deep;the frontwasformedby 12Doriccolumns,withtwoothersbehindthose atthecorners.FromthisporticotwodoorsledtotheTelestlrion, orinteriorofthetemple,whichwaspartly builtthesolid intorock oftheAcropolisof Eleusis.Twootherentranceslay,oneontheN.E. side,facingthePropylsea,andoneontheS.W.side.Abroadflight ofstepsontheN.E.leadstotheedgeoftheAcropolis,whencewe obtainthebestgeneralviewofthearrangements.Theinteriorwas 178ft.longand170ft.wide,andcontained42columns,disposed insixrows,whichsupportedanupperstory.Roundthewallsran eighthighsteps,partlyhewnoutofthelivingrock.IntheE.angle ofthegreattemplehavebeenfoundtheremainsofanothertemple oftheante-Persianepoch(denotedonthePlanbyredlines).This edificewassimilarinplanbutofmuchsmallersizeandcontained only25columns(infiverows);italsohadaporticoontheS.E.side. Partlybelowthisancienttemple,andpartlytotheS.W.ofit,traces havealsobeendiscoveredofa stillearliersanctuaryofpolygonal masonry(Eleusinianstone).Thebuildingasitnowexists,how ever,datesmainlyfromRomantimes. Above thetempleisthesiteoftheancientEleusiniancitadel, whichplayssoprominentapartinthestoryoftheThirtyTyrants (B.C.403).AtitsN.E.edgeisaChapelthePanagia of andabelfry. TotheS.istheMuseumwhichcontainsstatuesofpriestesses,a statueofAntinous,afewreliefsofTriptolemos(thebestonthe wall),andnumeroussmallterracottafiguresandinscriptions.The AcropolisisseparatedbyahollowfromthehillcrownedbyaFrank- ish tower.Descendingtowardsthesea, totheW.ofthishollow, wecomeabouthalfwaydowntotheentranceofanancientcave, whichservedasarock-tomb,formedbystonesarrangedinthe mannerofcorbels.—Fartheronwereachthewesternof thetwo 118 Route9. CHASIA. Excursions sickle-shapedMolesconstructedtosupplythewantofanatural harbour; theE.molerangedwiththeE.wallofthetown. Lastly we maydirectthepensioner(a7iop.a)(0{)whoactsas ourguide(fee1 dr.)toconductustotheChapelofSt.Zackarias (p.115),whichoccupiesthesiteofanancientsanctuarygenerally takenforTemple a ofTriptolemos.Theso-calledEleusinianrelief (p.100)wasfoundhere. d. Phyle. Thisexcursionoccupiesoneday.Drivingispracticableasfar as (2l/«brs.)Chasid(carr.30dr.),butbeyondthatthesteepascent(2'/2brs.) isPhyleperformedwemayreturnonthebybacktheconventofa horseofPanagiaordonkeyton(ratSoupi;Kleittontoca.(2i/25hrs.)dr.).ChasiiFrom andthenceto(2hrs.)Athens.Thosewhodonotdreadawalkof2*/2-3 hrs.moremaytravelbythePeloponnesianRailwayfR.12) toM.) (11 AnoLidrta(1hr.j fares1dr.20,951.)andproceedthenceto(l1/*hr.)Chasia onfoot.Guide(*o57)pc)notnecessaryforexperts.Asitoftentakesa longtimetomakeabargaininGhasfa,manytravellersbringtheguide andhorses(ca.10dr.)fromAthens.Duringwinter,however,whenthere isnofieldworkgoingon,thisisnotnecessary.Provisionsareindispensable. The footofthehillsonwhichPhyleliesmaybereachedby severalroutes.WemayquitAthenseitherbytheroadto Patisla, turningafterwardstotheleft,orbyoneofthestreetsleading fromthePlacedelaConcordetotheN.W.Afteraboutl'/jM. theroutecrossestheEephisos.Fartheronweseetotheright Pyrgos,themodelfarmofthelateQueenAmalia,nowprivatepro perty; anothergoodroadtoPhyle,oftenchosenbythecoachmen, leadsclosebythehouse.FartheronwepassthevillagesofKama- tttS(left)andAnoLi6sia(right).Afootpathleadstotherailway- station(p.148),wheremanypedestriansbegintheirwalk(toChasia l-lt/^hr.).—TotherightliesMenidi,withthedomedtombmen tionedatp.120.Thewholeneighbourhoodwascomprisedinthe ancientdemeofAcharnae,thecharcoal-burnersofwhichplayso importantapartinoneofthecomediesofAristophanes.Acharnae suppliedacontingentof300hoplites,orheavy-armedsoldiers,to theAthenianarmy. We soonseeinthedistancethehill,crownedbyachapeland twopine-trees,beyondwhichliesthe(l'/4o*.)villageofChasia (760inhab.).Atthe taverninthefirsthousetotheleft,thetrav ellermay,ifnecessary,makeenquiryrespectingguidesandthelike. We leavethecarriagehereandascendatfirstatolerablylevel nplandvalleyonfootoronhorseback.After'/2hrvbeyonda point wherethehillsofMegaracomeintosightontheleft,wherethepath totheconventofthePanagfa(p.117)divergestotheright,wereach astreamlet,generallydry.ThedirectroutetoPhyleascendsrapidly totheleftontheoppositebank,passingthroughascantyforestof pines.Inabout1hr.thepathdescendsdistinctlytotheright, towardstheconvent;we,however,turnatasharpangletotheleft, skirtagorge(ontheleft)andcrossabrook,beyondwhichwehave in Attica. PHYLE. 9.Route.119 aviewofPhylestraightinfront.Inashorttimewereachanarrow defiletraversedbyamountain-torrent,withsomeremainsofan an cientaqueduct,atthe(25 min.)endofwhichanarrowpathascends tothelefttothe(20min.)entrancetothefortress. Phyle(uXtj; 2130ft.)liesintheheartofthemountainsona spurconnectedwiththechiefgrouponlybya narrowsaddleon theN.E.,aboveapointwhereseveralravinesandpassesleadingto AtticaandBceotiaunite.ThefortressthreatensAtticaandcould onlybeheldbyagarrisonthatcommandedalsothemountain- districtontheN.WhenthegallantThrasybouloswasexpelledfrom AthensbytheThirtyTyrants,heestablishedhimselfherewith 70comradesandgraduallycollectedadevotedbandoffollowerswho settheattacksoftheThirtyatdefiance.Hisfollowingultimately becamesonumerousthathewasabletocapturethePiraeus(p.110) andthereaftertodeliverAthensfromthehatedyokeofthetyran nicaloligarchy(B.C.403).Themassivewallswithseveralsquare andonecirculartower,whicharestilladmirablypreserved, enclose a smallovalplateauextendingfromE.toW.Theprincipalen tranceontheN.E.sidewassocontrivedthattheapproachingenemy wouldbecompelledtoexposehisundefendedrightflanktothe garrison.ThereisalsoasmallentranceattheS.E.angle. The*Viewembracestheentirerangeofthe^Sgaleos,theAtticplain, withAthensitself,Hymettos,andtheSaronicGulfwith.dSginaandthe coastsofthePeloponnesus.Highermountainsexcludetheviewinother directions.TheabruptprecipicetotheN.E.,whichwiththeadjoining ridgetotheW.roughly resemblesanancientwarchariot,isprobably theRarmaofantiquity. From PhyletoThebes,9-i0hrs.,seep.176.TMarousi,thenameofwhichisamementoofthe sanctuaryofArtemisAmarysia,inthedemeofAthmonon.The conventofMendeli(p.122)lies1%hr.totheE.Totherightwe haveaviewoftheupperpartthe ofAtticplain,withthevillage ofChalandri(p.122). .8I/2M Kephisia,,a villagewith950inhab.,beautifully situatedonaspurofMt.Pentelikon.Thesurroundingdistrictis notedfortheluxurianceofitsvegetationandthebeautyofitswater falls,andtheplaceisnow,asinancienttimes,favourite a summer- residenceofAtheniancitizens.HerodesAtticus(p.55)hadalarge villaandpropertyatKephisiaandhereentertainedAulusGellius, whoafterwardscelebratedtheamenityofthedistrictinhis'Noctes Atticse'.—InthePlatia,orprincipalsquare,whichisshadedbya lineplane-treeandreachedfromtherailway-stationbyawidestreet in5min.,areseveralnewinns(e.g.GrandHotel,withrestaurant, wellspokenof).TheDimitra,anotherinn(keptbySpiro),lies a fewyardstotheS.,totherightoftheroadtoAthens; fineview fromthebalconies.AsmallmuseuminthePlatia,halfexposedto theair,containsfoursarcophagi,withreliefs(HelenandtheDioscuri, Eros,Leda,Nereids,etc.).AttheN.E.endofthevillage,3/iM. fromthePlatia,risestheprincipalsourceoftheKephisos,orKepha- l&ri,whencewaterisconductedtoAthensbyanunderground aqueduct,theair-shaftsofwhichareseenatthesideoftheroad.The QrottooftheNymphs,inagorgecontainingnumerousplane-trees, totheN.W.ofKephisia,hasbeendestroyedbyalandslip. Its i wellworthwhiletomakean*ExcursiontoTat6i,which liesT/2M.totheN.W.ofKephisia,andtowhichanomnibus runsfromthelatterplace,providedtherebeasufficientnumber ofpassengers.Partiesofmorethantwoshouldtakea carriage, whichaccomplishesthejourneyiniy4hr.(p.119).—Tat6ilies ontheroadfromAthenstoSkalaOropouandTanagra(Chalkis, p.181),-whichisjoinedtotheN. ofKoukouvaonesbya branch in Attka. TATOI. 9.Route.121 roadfromKephisia;beyondthispointtheroadrunsoverthe woodedslopesthe ofParnes. Tat&i(TaTi5iov),theunpretentioussummer-residenceofthe royalfamily, isnotedforitsbeautifulparkandgardensandshady oak-woods.Refreshmentsandbedsaretobeobtainedatafairly goodXenodochion(2dr.),reachedbytheavenuetotherightatthe beginningofthevillage.Fromthepointwheretheroadmakesa widecurvetotheleft,theroadstraightonisashort-cut.Tothe leftofthislatterroadliesthehandsomeNewRoyalPalace,and somewhattotherightistheOldPalace,nearwhichisaroundtower withsmallcollectionsofantiquitiesandnaturalhistory(admission duringtheabsenceoftheroyalfamilyonapplicationtothesteward). FarthertotheN.onthisroadarethebarracksoftheChorophylakes orruralpolice.BeautifulviewsareobtainedoftheAtticplain,the Pentelikon,andthecoastnearMarathon. Theruinsofanoldfortress, nowcalledKastro, onarounded summitt/aM.totheS. ofthebranch-roadtotheXenodochion (seeabove),aresupposedtomarkthecentrethe ofAtticdemeof Jbtkaleia.ThelastperiodofthePeloponnesianWarbeganinB.C. 413withtheseizureofthisspotbytheSpartans,actingonthe adviceofAlkibiades.Itscommandingpositionenabledthemto intercepttheconvoysofgrainfrom EuboeatoAthens,andinB.C. 404itformedthebaseofoperationsforthearmythatco-operated withthefleetofLysanderincompletelyinvestingAthensandstarv ingitintosurrender. FromTatoitoMarathon,4i/4hrs.(guidedesirable).Theroute leadsovertheB. spursofParnestothe(I74hr.)farmofLidsdti,then crossesthenewrailwaytoThebes,andfollowsanarrowpathstraight onthroughthe valleywateredhytheCharadrabrook(alwaysonthe right).Thepathbecomesbroaderabout1hr.beforewereachMarathon (p.127). f. Pentelikon. Thishighlyattractiveexcursioniseasilyaccomplishedin8-10hrs.,by drivinginll/z-2hrs.(carr.25dr.)totheconventofMendUiandascend ingthenceonfoottothe(2Vahrs.)topofthehill.Orwemaytakethe railwaytoMarousi(p.120)I74hr's.walkfromtheconvent,ortoKephisia, whenceweascend(guidedesirable)onfootbythepathbeginningatthe Eephisosspring(p.120)to(l3/Lyceum)orSchoolof Aristotle,thelatternearthatoftheKynosargesorSchooloftheCynics. AlittlefartheronisthevillageofAmpeloktpi(tramway, p.36), whichcorrespondswithtolerableexactnesstotheancientdemeof Alopeke,thebirth-placeAristides ofandSocrates.Beyondthevil lagetheroadforks, thebranchtotherightleadingtoMarathon 122 Route9. PENTELIKON.Excursion* (p. 127),whileourskeepstotheleft.Totheleftrisetherounded summitsoftheTourkoVouni.Totherightdivergestheroadtothe conventofMendeli.WecrosstheLaurionrailwayimmediatelybe forereachingChalandri(p.128),whereashorthaltisgenerallymade. Nearthevillageisanoldtomb, whichhasbeenconvertedintoa chapelofthePanagiaMarmariiStissa.Theroadnowascendsin windings,affordingaviewofKephisiaandanewmarble-quarryon theleft,andoftheMes6gia(p.128)the onright."Wepassseveral housesbuiltbytheDuchessofPiacenza,towhomtheunfinished chateaubeyondtheconvent,alsobelonged.Atsomedistancetothe leftoftheroadliesaprettylittlemountain-lake,which,however, isconcealedbyinterveningheights.Thecarriagenowdrawsup inthepleasantgreenspace,shadedbyplane-trees,withitsrefresh ingspring,infrontoftheconventofMendfliorPentde(1200ft.), therichestmonasticestablishmentinAttica.Theabbotwillingly permitstravellerstomakeuseoftheguest-chamber. Providingourselvesatthemonasterywithaguide,wecontinue theexcursiononfoot.Forabout1M.ourrouteisonthelevel, afterwhichitbeginstoascend,passingmanyoftheAncientQuar ries(somestillworked),whichyieldedthePentelicmarble,soad mirably adaptedeitherforbuildingsorsculptures.Tracesofthein clinedplanesdownwhichtheblocksofmarblewererolledtothe footofthehill,andalsoofthedevicestoretardtheirdescent,are stillvisible, andthedrumsofafewcolumnsarestilllyingready fortransportation.Pentelicmarbleisveryfineinthegrainandof abrilliantwhitecolour,withaslightyellowishtinge,owingtothe presenceofiron,whichbecomesarichgoldenhueunderthein fluence ofAbout time.halfwayupthehill,nearthelargestof the oldquarries,isanextensiveStalactiteGrotto,attheinnermost endofwhichisaspringof coldwater.AByzantinedoubleeagle hasbeencarvedontherocktotherightoftheentrance.Theascent hencetothetopofPentelikon(3640ft.)isa climbofItyihr. TherangewasoriginallyBrilessos called, butthecelebrityofthe marblequarriesinthedemeofPentelebroughtthepresentname intovogueataveryearlyperiod.Thesummit,whichinan tiquitywascrownedwithastatueofAthenaandnowbearsa trigonometricalsignal,commandsthemostextensive*Viewofall theAttichills.Thewoods, especiallyontheS.slopeofthehill, haverecentlysufferedgreatlyfromfire. To theE.lietheplainandbayofMarathon,beyondwhich,inthe islandEubcea, of risesthepyramidalDelph(p.211).TotheE.isthe S.endofEubcea,totheright(S.E.)ofwhicharetheislandsofAndros andTenos.StillfarthertotherightareKeos(p.140)andMakronisi(p.182), the_latterlyingclosetotheS.extremityofAttica.Tothe8.,faintly visiblethe inextremedistance,are themountainsinthe islandofKelos, 90-100M. away.TotheW.weoverlookthewholeoftheAtticplain, withAthens,theLykabettos,andHymettos.Fourmountain-rangeslimit theviewinthis_direction,onerisingabovethe other:Parnes,Kithaeron, theBoeotianHelicon,andlastlythesnowysummitofParnassos. On theS.slopeofPentelikonisadairy-farm(Metochi)belongingto in Attica. HTMETTOS.9.Route.123 theconventandcalledKdritosorGdrito.ThisprobablyrepresentsGar- geitos,thenameofanAtticdemeinthisdistrict,whichisinterwoven withtheearliesttraditionsofthecountry. g.KaesarianiandHymettos. ThemonasteryofKaesariani,4M.totheS.E.ofAthens,maybereach edeitherbycarriageoronfoot.—TheascentofMt.Hymettosfrom Ksesarianitakes2hrs.,butisseldommade,asthatPentelikon of ispre ferable.Thesheep-dogsonthehillsaresometimesapttobetroublesome (comp.p.xviii). WeleavetheKephisiaroad(p.120)oppositetheEvangelismos Hospital,crossasmallbrookflowingintotheIlissos,andfollowthe roadalongthebedpfstream, a generallydry,erroneouslysupposed tobetheancientEridanos.Inabout1 hr.wereapharuinedfarm formerlybelongingtotheconvent(Mettichi),andinV2nr-morecome somewhatunexpectedlyuponthedesertedmonasteryofKaesariani (11thcent.),halfhiddenamongtrees.Behindthebuilding(nowthe propertyofgovernment)isaspring,thewaterofwhichissuesfrom amarbleram'shead,ofancientdate.ThisisbelievedtobetheKuX- XoulTf]paof antiquity,whichwasregardedas acertainremedyfor thebarrennessofwomen.hill Theneartheconvent,withthe ChapelofSt.Mark,commandsagoodviewoftheAttic plainand thesea.—About3/aM.totheN.ofKsesarianiistheruined con ventofAsteri. AtoilsomepathascendsfromKaesarianfin2hrs.tothetop ofthelongandtreelessridgeofHymettos(3370ft.).Theview totheE.,onwhichsidethemountainfallsmoreabruptly,in cludesthefertileMesogia(p.128)andtheCyclades(Andros,Te- nos,Keos).TotheN.E.aretheloftymountainsofEubrea.The honeyofHymettosisstillasfamousasofyore,butmostofthe fragranthoneynowsoldunderthisname(p.35)comesfrom TourkoVouniandotherpartsofAttica.ThemarbleofMt.Hymet tosisofbluish-graycolour. h.Marathon. Thisinterestingbutsomewhatexpensive excursionmaybeaccom plishedinoneday,ifanearlystartbemade.Provisionsshouldbetaken fromAthens.—CarriagefromAthenstotheSoros,ormoundintheplain ofMarathon, inabout4'/2hrs., fare50-60dr.(onaccountoftherelays ofhorseswhichmustbesentonbeforehand).—SaddleHorse(20dr.) fromKephisia(p.120)toVrand,4hrs.; thenceacrosstheplainandpast theSordstoMarathon,13/4hr.; backtoKephisiavia theCaveofPan, 4'/2hrs.,inallIO1/4hrs.,exclusiveofthetimespentatMarathon.—Riders mayproceedfromMarathontoTatoithesameday (comp.p.121). FromAthenstoMarathon.—WeleaveAthensthe byKe phisiaroadandturntotherightbeyondAmpelokCpi(p.121).To theleftrisetheheightsoftheTourkoVouni,andtotherightis theHymettos,withtheconspicuouswhitewallenclosingtheruined conventofSt.JohntheHunter("Avi04'tiudwrj;KuvTjfk).Asthe roadpassesneartheW.spnrsofPentelikon,weobservetotheleft 124 Route9. MARATHON.Excursions the villagesofChalandri,Marousl,andKephisia, embosomedin vineyards,cornfields,andolive-groves.Thewhitemarblequarries ontheslopeofPentelikonarealso visible.Afterpassingachapel andseveralwells,wereach,l1/^hr.afterleavingAthens,agroup ofhousesandaruinedchapel,attheN.extremityofMt.Hymettos, whereitapproachestowithinabout3M.ofPentelikon.Thename ofthisplace,Stavrtis'cross', orisderivedfromitspositionatthe pointwheretheroadtoMarathonandLaurioncrossesthosetothe N.andS.partsoftheAtticplain.Infrontofthechapelisalofty Byzantinewith column,aninscription,datingfrom1237-38.The railway-stationofJeraka(p.128)liesnearthispoint. OurroadcrossestherailwayandleadstotheE.,skirtingtheS. spursofPentelikon.InaboutY2hr-wereachthesmallvillageof Charvdti,andin'/2nl-more,afterpassingthroughextensiveolive- groves,wearrivethe atestateofPikermi,whereashorthaltisge nerallymadetochangehorses.Pikermiwasthescene,inApril 1870,ofthelastimportantoutbreakofbrigandageinGreece,in whichanItalianandthreeEnglishgentlemenwerecapturedand shotbythebandits.Fossilizedboneshave beenfoundinthebed oftheValanaris, a mountaintorrenthere, which,however,is usuallydry.Theroadrunsforabout3M.alongthebankofthis torrent,whichreachestheseaatRaphina,anamerecallingthatof thedemeAraphen.AtthefarmofVouna,aboutV2nr-*°*neS.E. ofPikermi,anancientnecropolis,coveredbyatumulus,wasex cavatedin1889the byofficialEphoryof Antiquities.—Onthe summitoftheEttos,ahillthe to rightsomewhatresemblinga feudalcastle, tracesofancientfortificationshavebeendiscovered. AlittlebeyondthishilltheroadturnstotheN.,passingatsome distancefromaguard-housesituatedonthehilltotheright. After crossingtheridgeweobtainamagnificent*Viewofthepine- cladforeground,theazuresea,theislandofEuboea,andpartof theplainofMarathon,withtheprojectingpeninsulaofKynosoura; totheleftaretheslopesofthePentelikonandtheAgrieliki.The hamletof Oerotzakouli,visibleforafewmomentsabout3/4M.to theleftoftheroad,possessesaspringofdrinking-water.Soon after,inaboutAifehTS.fromthestart,thecarriagedrawsup byasol itaryfarm-house,withawine-press.About250yds.tothe N.,in themiddleofthePlainofMarathon,istheisolatedknollcalled *Sor6s,30-40ft.inheightandabout200yds.circumference, in partlyovergrownwithbrushwood.Thishasbeenprovedbytheex cavationsundertakenin1890bytheEphoryofAntiquitiestobe themoundraisedoverthe gravesoftheAthenians,whofellinthe battleofMarathon,onthe17thdayofMetageitnion(12thAug.), intheyearB.C.490,andsoprobablymarksthespotwherethe strugglewashottest.Theobsidianarrow-headsandotherobjects foundduringearlierexcavationsinclinedsomeantiquarianstoplace theconstructionofthemoundinprehistorictimes.TheSoroscom !

I

in Attica. MARATHON.0.Route.125 mandsthe"bestviewofthebattle-field,inwhich10,000Greeks totallyroutedaPersianarmyoftentimestheirnumber. LookingtowardstheN.W.and W.,weseetwovalleysascendingfrom theplain,totherightthevalleyofMarathon(p.127)andtotheleftthatof Vrand(p.126).ThelatterseemstohavebeenoccupiedbytheAthenians underMiltiades1inordertoconfrontthePersiansinthenarrowpass betweenthemountainsandthesea,shouldtheyattempttorepeatthe successfulmarchofPeisistratosonAthensbytheS.outletfromtheplain (correspondingwiththe presentroad).ThePersianshadlandedinthe BayofMarathonontheadviceofHippias,butprobablyre-embarkedon observingtheGreciantactics.Thecavalry,atanyrate,forwhosebenefit theplainofMarathonwasselected,musthave beenagainembarked,as nomentionoccursofitinanyaccountofthebattle,whichwouldprobably havehadadifferentissuehadthePersiangeneralsbeenabletolaunch theirsquadronsofhorsemenonthelittlebandofGreeks.Miltiadesrecognised thefavourableopportunitywhenthePersianforcewasdividedandthe mostdangerouspartofitremovedfromthefield,andhurriedtoattack thetroopsthathadnotyetembarked. Herodotus, whowasthefirsttocommitanaccountofthebattleto writing,about40 yearslater,describesitasfollows: —'Thenatlength, whenhisownturnwascome,theAthenianbattlewassetinarray,and thiswastheorderofit:CallimachusthePolemarchledtherightwing; foritwasatthattimearulewiththeAthenianstogivetherightwing tothePolemarch.Afterthisfollowedthetribes,accordingastheywere numbered,inanunbrokenline;whilelastofallcamethePlateeans, formingtheleftwing.Andeversincethatdayithasbeena custom withtheAthenians,inthesacrificesandassembliesheldeachfifthyear atAthens,fortheAthenianheraldtoimploretheblessingofthe gods onthePlatseansconjointlywiththeAthenians.Now,astheymarshall edthehostuponthefieldofMarathon,inorderthattheAthenian frontmightbeofequallengthwiththeMedian,theranksofthecentre werediminished,anditbecametheweakestpartthe ofline,whilethe wingswerebothmadestrongwithadepthofmanyranks.Sowhenthe battlewassetinarray,andthevictimsshowedthemselvesfavourable, instantlytheAthenians,sosoonastheywereletgo,chargedthebarbar iansatarun.Nowthedistancebetweenthetwoarmieswaslittleshort ofrightfurlongs.ThePersians,therefore,whentheysawtheGreeks comingonataspeed,madereadytoreceivethem,althoughitseemed tothemthattheAthenianswerebereftoftheirsenses,andbentupon theirowndestruction;fortheysawamerehandfulofmencomingon atarunwithouteitherhorsemenorarchers.Suchwastheopinionof thebarbarians;buttheAtheniansinclosearrayfelluponthem,and foughtinamannerworthyofbeingrecorded.Theywerethefirstofthe Greeks,sofar asIknow,whointroducedthecustomofchargingthe enemyatarun,andtheywerelikewisethefirstwhodaredtolookupon theMediangarb,andtofacemencladinthatfashion.Untilthistime theverynameoftheMedeshadbeenaterrortotheGreekstohear.The twoarmiesfoughttogetherontheplainofMarathonforalengthoftime; andinthemidbattle,wherethePersiansthemselvesandtheSaceehad tlieirplace,thebarbarianswerevictorious,andbrokeandpursuedthe Greeksintotheinnercountry;butonthetwowingstheAtheniansand thePlatfflansdefeatedtheenemy.Havingsodone, theysufferedthe routedbarbarianstoflyattheirease,andjoiningthetwowingsinone, felluponthosewhohadbrokentheirowncentre,andfoughtandcon queredthem.Theselikewisefled,andnowtheAthenianshungupon therunawaysandcutthemdown,chasingthemallthewaytotheshore, onreachingwhichtheylaidholdoftheshipsandcalledaloudforlire. ItwasinthestruggleherethatCallimachusthePolemarch,aftergreatly distinguishinghimself,losthislife;Stesilaustoo,thesonofThrasilaus, oneofthegenerals,wasslain; andCynoegirus,thesonofEuphorion, havingseizedonavesseloftheenemy'sbytheornamentatthestern, hadhishandcutoffbytheblowofanaxe,andsoperished; aslikewise 126 Route9. MARATHON.Excursions didmanyotherAtheniansofnoteandname.NeverthelesstheAthenians securedinthiswaysevenofthevessels; whilewiththeremainderthe barbarianspushedoff*(Rawlinson'sTranslation). ThelossoftheBarbariansisstatedbyHerodotustohavebeen6400 men, mostofwhomwereprobablycutdownwhileattemptingtoescape. ApaintingbyPolygnotosintheStoaPcekileatAthensrepresented the largeswamptotheN.asthesceneofgreatslaughteramongthePersians. OftheAthenians192wereslain,besideswhomanumberofPlatseano andslavesalsofell.Thedeadwerelaidincommongravesaccordingts septs,andoverallwasraisedaloftymound(theSor6s).Asimilarmound, ofwhichalltracehasdisappeared,coveredtheremainsofthePlatseans andthoseoftheslaveswhoweredeemedworthyofthishonour. Pausaniasvisitedthebattle-HeldandspeaksofFunereal a Mon umenttoMiltiades,who,however,didnotdietillalaterdate, afterthefailureoftheexpeditiontoParos.ATropaeon,ormonu mentofvictory,isalsomentioned.Oneorotherofthesemonu mentswasformerlysupposedtoberepresentedbytheso-called Pyrgos,theremainsofasquaresubstructureofmarble,aboutV2M. totheN.W.oftheSoros,closebyasolitarycypressandawine press;but anexaminationmadein1890indicatedthattheblocks ofmarblehadbeenbroughthitherfromsomeothererection. FromKbphisiatoMarathon.WeproceedtowardsN., the theroadatfirstleadingthrougholive-groves,vineyards,andcorn fields.Thecultivation,however,graduallydisappears,andwefinally reachadistrictovergrownbyarbutus,lentisks,andsparsely-sown pines.TotherightrisethebarrenW.slopesofthePentelikon, onwhichseveralnewmarblequarriesarenowworked.Theroad windsroundtheN.W.baseofthehill,oneofthespursofwhichis crownedbythemodernfortofKastrdki.Afterhr.wereacha PanagtaChapelbeneathsomeloftytreesnearadraw-well,anda largeMagazi,bothbelongingtothevillageofStam&ta,whichour road,however,doesnotactuallyenter. In he tprincipalbuildinginthevillage(belongingtoElidpoulos)isa smallgicalSchoolcollectionintheofsculptures,districtofetc.,lDionysos\exhumedatbythetheN.AmericanbaseofPentelikon,Archaeolo about3M.totheS. Thedistrictisidentified,probablycorrectly,with the ancientdemeofIkara,whichplaysaprominentpartintheDionysiac myths.—About3/Souli,bythewayside,isaspring,knowninancienttimesasMa- karia.TotheleftextendsthegreatmarshtotheN.oftheplainofMa rathon,whichprovedfataltosomanyPersianfugitives.Wetakeabout 172hr.reach to MarathonfromKato-Souli,therouteleadingviaBii(p.127). i.LaurionandCapeBunion. .40M Railwayin23/4-3hrs.(fares7dr.36,5dr.55L; return-ticket, availablefortwodays,12dr. 70,9dr.501.).—Theintervalbetween thearrivalofthefirsttrainat,andthedepartureof thelastfromLaurion, affordstimeforavisittoCapeSuniononfoot.Carriagesaregenerally inwaitingattherailway-stationofLaurion,butitissafertoorderone bytelegraph(comp.p.130). From Athens(KephisiaStation,p.119; PI.D,2)to (4'/2M.j Arakli,seep.120.ThelinetoLaurionheredivergestotheE.,passes (7M.)Chalandri(p.122),onthedepressionBetweenthePentelikon (N.)andtheHymettos(S.),andthenturnstotheS.Fromstat. Jerakaafinepine-woodextendstotheslopesofthePentelikon. Fartheron,totheleft,standsahandsomemodernchapeldedicatedto St.Nicholas.Adjacentisawhitemarblemonumentofalateperiod ofGreekart,consistingofalionsittingonhishaunches,withhis headturnedtowardstheleft.Itstoodonasquareplatform,nowin ruins.Beyondstat.KantzaweentertheMestSgia(Meaoftua,the inland),anundulatingdistrictofhillandplain,stretchingtothe spursofPentelikonontheN., totheHymettosontheW.,tothe vicinityMarkopoulo of ontheS.,andtothecoast-hillsonthe E. 15. M Liopesi,apleasantvillagewith1600inhah.,undoubt edlyoccupyingthesiteoftheancientdemeofPaeania,thebirth placeofDemosthenes.About8*/sM.totheE.liesthevillageof Spdta,where6omeinterestingcave-tombswerebroughttolight in 1877; whilethetumuliofVourvdandofVelanidHalierespect ively13/4and3»/2M.fartheron.—I8I/2M.Koropi.Thelarge village(2800inhab.)liestotheright,atthebaseofthePanior HillofPan(Llavetov),thetwohighestpeaksofwhichare2016ft. and2135ft.high.Eubceaisvisibleontheleftforsomedistance. 22. M Markopoulo(Rfmts.),avillagewith1800inhab.,situated onarisinggroundamidcorn-fieldsandvineyards,alsoshowstraces ofanancientdeme,thenameofwhichhas notbeenascertained. About. 3M totheN.E.ofMarkopouloliesVra6na,theancientSraurm, theseatofoneoftheprincipalsanctuariesofArtemis,whichcontained in Attica. THORIKO. 9.Route.129 thewoodenimageofthegoddesssaidtohavebeenbroughtfromTauris byIphigeneia(comp.p.64).Theancientremainshereareveryscanty. —TheruinedvillageofMer&nda.IV2M.totheS.E.ofMarkopoulo,said tohavebeendestroyedbytheTurks,occupiesthesiteoftheancient MyrrkinouSywhichpossessedtemplesofArtemisKolainisandAthena. From Mark6puloacarriage-roadleadstothe E.to(11M.)thePorto Raphti,afinenaturalharbour,dividedintotwobasinsbyatongueof landwitha fewhousesanda chapelofSt.Nicholas.TheS.part of thebaybelongedinantiquitytoPrasiae,oneofthetwelvetownsof AtticaweldedintoonepoliticalcommunitybyTheseus(p.39).The townlayontheCapeofKordni,whichformstheS.boundaryofthe bay, andisknowninclassichistoryastheportfromwhichtheTheorise,orsa crificialembassiestoDelos,tooktheirdeparture.TotheN.ofCapeKoroni liesasmallrockyislet,accessibleonlyfromoneside(N.),onwhichis acolossalmarblefigureinasittingposture,probablyrepresentingthe heroErysichthon.Popularfancyhasseensomeresemblanceinthis figuretoatailor(fxzcpxTjO,andhasnamedthebayaccordingly. Near(25'/2M.)Kalyviathemountainsonbothsidesclosein a littleandbegintomergeinthehillsofLaurion.—27^2M.Ke- ratei,athrivingTillagewith1800inhah.,possessespleasantgar densandfruit-treesandanexcellentspring,thewaterofwhichis senteventoThorikfiandLaurion.Itprobablycorrespondstothe olddemeofKephale.Astrongred wine,withoutresin,isproduced here. .34M DaskalidandthenSpiliaziza,bothtotheleftof therail way,whichnowdescendsthroughalongvalley,sidebysidewith thehigh-road.Signsofourapproachtoamining-districtbecome morenumerous. .38M Thorik6orTherikd,onthespaciousharbourofPorto Mandri,containsconsiderableremainsoftheancientThorikds. In legendaryhistoryThorikdsappearsastheresidenceofKingKepha- los,husbandof Prokris,thedaughterofErechtheus,thestoryofwhose visittoCreteisundoubtedlybasedsome onearlyintercoursewiththat ancienthomeofculture.Thorikdswasoneofthetwelvetownsofthe SynoekismosofTheseus(p.39),butthenceforthdisappearsfromhistory tillthe23rd yearof thePeloponnesianWar(B.C.409),whenweread thattheAthenianssurroundeditwithmassivewallstorepelanyattack theSpartansmightmakefromthissideonthesilver-minesLaurion. of Mostf o theruinslieattheS.baseofthepointedhillofVele- touri(480ft.)totheN.W.oftheharbour,connectedbya saddle withalowerhill(400ft.)totheN.Themostextensivearethose oftheTheateb,whichweobserveatsomedistancetotheleftof therailwayandroad.TheauditoriumfacestheS.andisembedded betweentwolowspursofthehill,afactwhichnodoubtaccounts fortheovalformnowhereelsemetwithinbuildingsofthiskind. It isboundedbyamarblewallresemblingthatofa fortress.The tiersofseats,formedoflargeslabsofstone,arenearlyalldestroyed. Thestructuresontheoutsideoftheenclosingwall,totheN.W. andN.E.,wereprobablythesubstructuresforflightsofsteps ascendingtothetopofthewall,whenceotherflightsdescendedon theinsidetotheseats.ThesubstructuretotheN.W.isintolerable preservation; it isintersectedbyalowpassagewithacorbelled Babdbkbb'sGreece.2ndEdit. 9 130 Route9. LAURION. Excursions vaulting,adevicebywhichbuildingmaterialissavedwithoutloss ofsupportingcapacity.OppositetheE.endofthewallisasmall squarechamberhewnintherookandopeningontheauditorium, whichmaypossiblyhavebeenaParascenium(seep.53)orside- scene.AlittletotheN.ofthetheatreisanancientcircular Cistern, thestonesofwhicharecoatedwithmortar;partoftheenclosing wall,inthepolygonalstyle,isalsopreserved.MoretotheW.is anancientWatchTower,stillofconsiderableheight,nearwhich arethestumpsofsomecolumnsandotherremains. Anothersectionoftheruinsliesthe toE.ofthevillageofTho- rikoandofthelargefactory(closed)builtonthetongueofland separatingthePortoMandrifromthesmallerbaytotheN.,called theVrysakiorFrankoLimaniTheremainsherearethoseofaline offortificationsofpolygonalmasonry,providedatintervalswith towers,whichfacedtheE.andranfromtheBayofVrysakitothe BayofMandri.Atthehighestpointofthiswall,nearthelittle chapelofSt.Nicholas,thefoundations are oflarge a tower,totheN. ofwhicharetracesofgateway. a OntheW.thislineoffortifications isansweredbyanother,notsodistinctlytraceable,onthehillwith thefactory-chimney. Beyond Thorikotherailwayskirtsthecoast,traversingthehol lowbetweenthelowcoast-hills(100ft.)ontheE.,withthevil lageNyktochori of ontheirslopes,andthehigherhillstotheW. ItendsatthebayofLaurion. 40. MLaurion.—Hotels.*H5teld'Eubope,oppositetheW.side ofthestation,clean,bedfrom2dr.,witharestaurant.—GoodCafiat thestation. CarriagetoCapeColonna(p.132;l1/?hr.),obtainedfromCasela,15dr. Comp.p.129. LaurionorLaurium(pronouncedL&vriori),pleasantlysituated onthebayofErgastiri(Ergasteria=workshops),isanentirely moderntownwith5100inhabitants,allofwhom,excepta few French,German,Italian,andEnglishofficialsatthemines,areof Hellenicrace.Itconsistsofacolonyofworkmen'shouses,laidout in regularlinesandonauniformpatternroundthelargesmelting- works.Theroomyharbour,whichmustcertainlyhavebeenusedby theancientGreeks,generallycontainsafewsteamers,takinginor dischargingcargo, andsomeofthemarket-boatsthatkeepupa trafficwiththeJEgeanIslands. ThenameofLaurion,whichmayperhapshavesurvivedinthatof Legrananowassignedtooneof theminingdistricts,wasappliedbythe ancientGreekstothewholeofthehillyandmetalliferouspartofthe AtticpeninsulatotheS.ofalinedrawnfromThorikos(p.129)toAna- phystos.Theexact periodatwhichtheartofmining,longknowninthe Orient,wasintroducedintoAtticaisunknown,butitwasnotpractised withanyveryprofitableresultinthetimeofSolon.Themineswerethe propertyofthestateandfarmedouttoenterprisingcitizens,onheredi taryleases.Thepriceofthelease,whichatalaterdatewasusuallya talent(ca.235J.)foreachmine,andlfaoftheannualreturnswerepaid intothepublictreasury.Allthatwasleftafterdefrayingtheordinary expensesofgovernmentwasdividedamongthecitizens.Theminers in Attica. LAURION. 9.Route.131 were invariablyslaves.Theworkingsconsisted,as inourowntime, of shafts(tppictxa,wells)andgalleries(uitdvojioi, mines),andthelarge chambersexcavatedundergroundweresuppliedwithairbyventilating shaftstyuxarrurfia).Injurytothecolumns(opfiot,fxeuoxpiveTc)leftstand ingtoproptheroofwaspunishedseverely,some incaseseven with death.Themassesofrockhewnoutwerebroughttothesurfaceonthe backsofslaves.Themetalliferousorewasthenseparatedfromthe'dead1 orebypoundingwithironpestlesinmortarsofstone.Theancientpro cessofsmeltingisunknown. In.C. B 489-488,whentheminesofLaurionwereyieldingahighly satisfactoryreturn,ThemistoklesprevailedupontheAthenianstogiveup theannualdistributionofthe surplusandtoapplyittotheformation ofa fleet,tobeusedagainstthe iEginetans(p.136)andthePersians. Thusafteritsfavourablesituation,theliberalityofitsconstitution,and theintellectualsuperiorityofitspeople,probablynothingcontributed somuchtotheprosperityandmightofAthensasthepossessionofthe minesofLaurion.Towardstheendofthesamecentury,however,the outputfelloff.InthetimeofStrabo(1stcent,ofourera)theminers hadbeguntoworkoverthe'Ekboladee1or stoneswhichhadformerly beenthrownasideascontainingtoolittleoretomakeitworthextraction, andPausanias(p.cx)speaksoftheminesashavinglong beendisused. In recentdays,however,newlifehasbegunhere;but whilesilverwas almostthesoleobjectoftheancientminers,leadisthechiefproductof themodernmines.In1860aMarseillescompanyboughttherefuse-fields belongingtothecommunityofKeratea'(p.129),andalsoobtainedtheright toworkoverthosebelongingtothestate.In ashorttime8-10,000tons oflead(containing12-22oz.ofsilverperton)wereexportedannually toEngland,forwhich6000dr.werepaidyearlytoKeratea,whilea royaltyof10percentontheyieldofprivatepropertyandof30per cent(about22dr.aton)onthatofthepublicmineswasexactedbythe Greekgovernment.Itsoon,however,cametolightthattheFrench companynotonlyutilisedthescoriteorslag,towhichtheywere limitedbyaverbalinterpretationoftheircontract,butalsothe(Ekbo- ladee1(seeabove),fromwhichmodernapplianceswereabletoextracta remunerativequantityofore.Hencearosealaw-suit(1869),intowhich theHellenesthrewthemselveswithgreatvehemenceandwhichoccasioned agooddealofexcitementinGreece.Itendedin1873withthepur chasebythecompanyofthewholeareaembracedbytheirworkingsfor 11,500,000fr. TheminesofLaurionarenowworkedmainlybytwo companies, foundedsoonaftertheabovedate.OfthesetheBocMUdes UsinesduLaurium,aGreekcompanywhichhasitsseatatLaurionand Daskalld,confinesitselfmainlytotheworkingoverofscorieeandthepro ductionofcadmium;whilethemoreimportantFrenchcompany,the CompagnieFran^aisedesMinesduLaurium, hasworksatKamaresaand PiakaVillia,wherecadmium,lead,andmanganeseareproduced.The followingsmallercompaniesalsocarryonoperations: theBociitiDar- desa-DaskalioatDaskalio(manganese),the8oci4UFrancaisedesMinesdu SuniumatSunion(leadand cadmium),andtheSocMUdeVOlymptLavrio- tique(cadmium). An interestingvisit(guidenecessary)maybepaidtosomeof theancientworkings, manyofwhicharein thesameconditionas theywereleft1800yearsago.Thereareinall2000shaftsand galleries.Theformeraregenerallyabout6*/2ft-square,andvary indepthfrom65to400ft.Nichesforlamps,water-vessels,and thelikemayhenoticedinthewalls. ExcursionsfromLackiok.1.ViaSo-dresaorviaKyprian6(thence bytheFrenchrailway)toKamarisa(p.135),wheretheminesmaybe visitedonlybyspecialpermissionj thencetotheK.tothecable-railway oftheGreekCompany,pastnumerousancientworkings,andtoPlaka returningthroughtheplainofThorik6toLaurion(bycarriagein3hrs.) 9* 132 Route0. CAPECOLONNA.Excursions —. 2 ViaSotiresaandSpitharopousitoMegaleVigla,andbackviaSunion toLaurion(5hrs.). ThedirectroutetoCapeColonna.takes2*/4hrs.onfoot,or 1!/2hr.bycarriage(p.130).Thecarriage-road(numerousshort cutsforwalkers,totheleft)leadspartlyinagradualascentover thecoast-hills,partlyskirtsthesea.Fornearlythewholewaywe haveaviewofthelongandmountainousislandofMakronisi, whichIsinhabitedby onlyafewhuntsmenandshepherds.In antiquityitwascalledHelena,anameprobablyduetosomeearly intercoursewiththePhoenicians,thoughpopularlyascribedtothe legendthatthefairqueenoncelandedherewithParisorMenelaos. After O/4hr.'swalkthecolumnsofthetempleofAthenaatSu nionbecomevisibleforamomentstraightinfront.In35min. theyre-appear,i/ihr.beforewereachtheendofthecarriage-road andtheloftyisthmusjoiningCapeColonnawiththemainland. Inthelittle-usedbaythe onE.sidebeginsthesubmarinetelegraph cabletoSyra.Thebaythe onW.sideisalsolittleusedbyship ping,asit isexposedtothefullfuryoftheS.wind.Fromthe housesontheshore,wherewineandbreadmaybepurchased,a walkof10min.bringsustothetempleonthesummitofthecape. Thelowhill(145ft.)totheN.,beyondadeepdepression,iscovered withfragmentsofDoriccapitals,marbleslabs,andotherdebris,sur roundedbyawallofyellowish-graystone.Itisnottheruinofatemple, butratheradesertedmarble-cutter'syard. **Cape ColonnaorKoldnnaes,theCapeSunionofancienthistory, descendsevery onsideperpendicularlytotheseafromaheightof nearly200ft.,andmaybenotinaptlycomparedtoahugewatch- towerattheextremityoftheGrecianmainland.Themarinerapproach ingfromtheE.hadoftentostrugglehereagainstopposingwinds andcurrents,beforehecouldroundthepointandenterthecalmer andmoreshelteredwaterstotheW.Henceitwaschosenatavery earlyperiodasthesiteofatempleofthegodwhorulesthesea, andHomerandotherancientwriterschronicleitssanctity.Poseidon afterwardsreceivedAthena,theprotectressoftheland, asa com panion,andthecultof thelatterdivinity,morefrompolitical thanfromreligiousreasons,eventuallysteppedintotheforeground. The ummit s ofthepromontoryissurroundedbyaFortified Wallstrengthenedwithtowers,whichisbestpreservedontheE. partthe ofN.sideandontheE.side,facingthepath.Thewallis double,consistingofaninnerandanouterscreenofmasonry, with aninterveningspacefilledupwithrubbish.Thestructure,though perhapsoftenafterwardsrepaired,datesoriginallyfrom B.C.413, whentheAthenianswerecompelledtoimportalltheirgrainfrom EuboeabyseaowingtothehostileoccupationofDekeleia(p.121), and hadconsequentlytoprovideharboursofrefugefortheirgrain- ships.SoonafterabodyofrebelliousminersfromLaurionseizedthe fortifications,andmaintainedthemselvesherebybrigandage,until theAtlieniansmanagedtoputastoptotheirexactions.Thefor In Attica. CAPECOLONNA.9.Route.133 tresss i mentionedinoneofthespeechesofDemosthenes,who recommendsitasagoodrendezvousforthesurroundinginhabitants intimeofwar. At thehighestpointofthepromontorystandsa *Templeof Athena.Thisstructure, aDoricperipteralhexastyle,with12or 13columnsatthesides, seemstohaveresembledtheTheseionat Athensbutwasonaslightlysmallerscale(98ft.by44ft).Most authoritiesreferitserectiontothetimeofPeriklesoralittlelater. Thestereobate,consistingofthreesteps,issupportedonthe N.andW.bysubstructures, builttoekeoutthesmalllevelsur faceavailableatthe topofthecape.NinecolumnsontheS.side andtwoontheN.arestillstanding.Theyare20ft.inheight, andindiameterandtaperareidenticalwiththoseoftheTheseion. Thereare,however,only16flutes(insteadof20),anarrangement whichisperhapsowingtothefactthatthetemplewastobeseen? morefromtheseaandatadistancethancloseathand.Thegreater partofthefrontofthepronaoshasalsobeenpreservedatthe E.end,comprisingthewholeoftheN.anta,a fewblocksof theS.anta,andoneofthecolumnsbetweenthem.Therestofthe buildingisa shapelessruin.ThefriezewasofParianmarble. Thecoarse-grainedmarble,ofwhichtherestofthetempleisbuilt, fromtheAgresilavalley,2'/2M.totheN.,hasnotresistedthe effectsoftimeandweathersosuccessfullyasthePentelicmarble oftheAthenianedifices.Theprocess of disintegrationseemstobe stillgoingsteadilyon;attheendofthe17thcent,therewere 19columnsstillinanuprightpositionandtherewere14atthe beginningofthepresentcentury. In frontoftheE.end andthe adjoiningportionstheN. ofand S.sideslienineortenblocks,somefacedownwards,bearingmuch defacedreliefs.Theseprobablyformedpartofthefrieze.Experts claimtorecognizeTheseusovercomingtheMarathonianbull; the battleoftheLapithffiandCentaurs,withtheinvulnerableKameus overwhelmedwithmassesofrockbytwoCentaurs;andTheseus andSkiron(?). To theN.ofthetempleandalittlebelowitliesanartificial terrace,supportedontheN.andW.byawell-preservedwallof whitemarbleandabuttingtotheE.onthefortifiedwallenclosing thepromontory.NeartheN.E.cornerofthisplatformlietwoDoric capitals,differingfromeachotherandfromthoseofthetemple. SincetheFrench'ExpeditionMore'e',this dehasgenerallybeentaken forthesiteofaPeopyl^on,theentranceofwhichwasdistyle'in antis'.Itis,however,notimprobablethatitservedasabasement forthealtarofPoseidon(p.132).Thefestivalofthemarine deity,celebratedhereeveryfourthyearandhonouredbyasacrificial embassyfromAthens,musthaverequiredatolerablyroomyspace. AccordingtotheopinionofLordByron,expressedina noteto'Childe Harold1,is there'in allAttica,ifweexceptAthensitselfandMarathon, noscenemoreinterestingthanCapeColonna\Andindeedwhenwere 134 Uoutt9. VARI. Excursions gardthecolumnedpromontoryofSunion, andcompareitwiththesit uationsofthetemplesat.ASgina(p.138),Bassae(p.310),andOlympia (p.328),wefinditimpossibletoresisttheconclusionthattheancientshad astrongsenseofnaturalbeautyinselectingthesitesoftheirholyplaces, littleasthiscouldbesurmisedfromeventhebestoftheclassicwriters. The*Viewfrom CapeColonnacomprisesthewell-wooded,metalliferous hillsandvalleysofLaurionandagreatpartoftheSaronicGulf,withthe jEginetanOrostoweringinitsmidstandoftenenvelopedintherain- cloudsthatbetokenacomingstorm; moretotheleftistheopenMyrtean Sea.withtheislandofHydraandthemountainsoftheArgolicpeninsula; inthemiddleforegroundliestherockyisletofHagiosQeorgios,theBettrina ofantiquity;totheE.extendstheuEgeanSeawiththedoublerowofthe Cyclades,Keos,Kythnos,Seriphos,andMelosformingaprolongationofthe Atticpeninsula,whileAndrosandTenoscontinuethe islandofEubcea. Bridle-PathfromAthenstoLaurion.FromAthenstoFart,3V«hr0.; thencetoLaurion6hrs.—WeleaveAthensbythe bridgeovertheIlissos (PI.E,8),tothe8.oftheOlympieion,anddivergetotherightfromthe roadtothetoright,theGreekandafterCemeteryabout(p.lf\51).hr's.Weridepassfromapowder-magazinethebridgereachaonchapelahill ofSt.John,roundwhicharenumerousruins,supposedtobethoseofan ancientsuburb.AboutV*M-fartheron,totheleft,isalargefunereal mound,thehollowinteriorofwhichhasbeenpartlyfilledup bythe fallingin oftheroof.Thisisthefirstof aseriesofsimilarsepulchres whichaccompaniesthepathfornearlywhole theway; thefragmentsof walls,sometimesenclosingaquadrangularspace,alsobelongtotombs. Thegreatnumberofthesegraves, whichhaveprovidedtheAthenian dealersinantiquitieswithcopioussuppliesvases, ofshowhowmuch frequentedthisroutemusthavebeenatonetime.Atseveralpoints, wherethepathtraversessmallelevations,tracesoftheoldwheel-tracks canstillbemadeoutandatoneplacetheraisedside-walkforfoot-pas sengersisvisible. Farthern o thevillageofBrahdmiisseenatsomedistancetothe right.Alongthehillstotheleft, abovethehollowcontainingthefarm ofKard,extendsa seriesofancientstonequarries,someofwhichare stillworked.ThevillageofTrdchonesisbelievedtocorrespondwith theolddemeofHalimous.TotheW.isacapejuttingoutintothesea and crownedwiththeruinsofachapelofSt.Cosmos.Manyauthorities identifythispromontorywithCapeKolias,towhichthewreckofthe PersianshipswasbornebytheW.windafterthebattleofSalamia.It wasthesiteofamuch-reveredtempleofAphrodite.Thevicinityfur nishedthepottersofAthenswiththeirfinestclay.AboutM.beyond Trachonesa trackdivergestotheleft, whichtraversestheso-called PirnariValleyandleadsbetweentheGreatHymettosontheN.and theKoropi Lesser2lf'iorhrs.).'Waterless*1About3!/aHymettosM.fartherononthetheS.toroadthetoMesogiaVaristrikes(p.128;offto theleft,passing the extensiveruinsofanancientdeme, andtraversing alateralvalleywiththesubstructuresofnumerousancienttombs.The pathinastraightdirectionleadstoa chapelofSt.Nicholas,situated nearthesea-shore,andtothelakeofVouliasmenita smallsheetofwater surroundedbyprecipitousrockywalls.Nearthislakeistheconventof Zoster,situatedonthebeachoppositetheislandPhliva, of thePhdbra of antiquity. sVarii muchfrequentedinautumnbysportsmen,whoobtainex cellentquailandsnipeshootinginthesurroundingswamps.Aroom hasbeenfittedupfortheaccommodationofstrangers.Varistandsa littletotheN.ofthesiteofanancientdeme,whichhas notasyetbeen identified(perhapsAnagyros?).—Ontheupperslopeofabarrenrocky hill,3M.totheN.,istheGrottoopVari,towhichavisitmaybe paid(withaguide)forthesakeofitsinscriptionsandreliefs.These aretheworkofa stone-masonof Thera,namedArchedemos,whohas lefta portraithimself ofwithhishammerandsquare."Nearthisrelief in Attica. LAMVRIKA.9.Route.135 areaprimitivealtarofApolloRenos,aquaintreliefofasitting figure, alion'shead,etc.Intheinnermostrecessofthegrottoisasmallbut almostperennialspring. The track,whichbeyondVariisimpracticablefordriving,nowturns totheN.E.andskirtstheridgeofKeramdli,theE.boundaryofthe fertileplainofVari.IntheseabehindusliesthesmallislandofKa- tramonisi.After5/4hr.wepassa frequentedwell,surroundedwitha copingofancientsquaredstones.TotheN.risesthehillofKondraPsili. somewhatresemblingafeudalcastle.Thepathnowbeginstoascendand passesplaceswheretherockshave beenlevelledfortheconstructionof theancientroadtoLaurion.TotheN.liestheruinedvillageofLam- vHka,occupyingthesiteoftheupperdemeofLamptrae,whilethelower demelaytothe8.,onthesea.Wenowreachanotherplateau,along whichourpathleadsata distanceofabout1M.fromthecoast,and obtaina viewoftherangeofPanf,nearKerate&,towhichapathdi vergesviathevillageof Kalyvia.Ini'/ahr.moreourpathtrendsinland andascendsgraduallythrougha tractpartlyundercultivation.After passinga disusedTurkishfarmanda chapelofSt.Demetriuswereachthe (l-l1/*hr.)miserablehamletofitlymbo,situatedbetweenthePanfand theSkoi'diorElymbo(c.1500ft.).Thenameisevidentlyacorruptionof theancientOlympos,whichaccordinglyhasbeenrestoredofficial indocu ments.Bythewaysidearenumerousremainsofancientand wallstombs, similartothoseatVari.AboutH/2M.beyondElymboa smallplain opensoutontheright,traversedbya streamofwhichthebedisgener ally dry.ThisplainendsontheothersideatthebayofAUki,socalled froma salt-workonitsbanks.Inthe sealiestheislandof Lagonisi (Elaeussa),concealedfromviewbythepromontoryofAstypalaea.In antiquitythistractwascomprisedinthedemeofAnaphlystos,aname whichisbutthinlydisguisedinthatofAnavyto,appliedtoafarmat theE.baseofMt.Elymbo.AnaphlystosandThoriktfs(p.129)formed thefortifiedextremitiesoftheN.frontieroftheminingdistrictofLau rion(p.126).—Ourroutecrossestheplain(20min.)andthenascends throughbrushwood.In*j\hr.morewereachthegreatslag-fieldsof Laurion.Wethenfollowalineofrails,passingthegapingmouthsof severaldeepshafts,andarriveatQj\hr.)Kamdresayoneofthemostim portantofthenewmining-stations(p.131).AgoodroadleadBhenceto (3M.)Laurion(seep.130). 10. TEgina. TheExcursionfromAthenstoMqinatakesabouti*f%day.Steamer (comp.pp.xix,xx)almostdailybetween7and8a.m.fromthePiraeus toAlginain2*/2hrs.(fares5dr.80,3dr.901. ticketsobtainedonboard). Onlandingweshouldatoncesecurehorsesforavisittothetemple (thereandbackin6hrs.,6-8dr.).ThesteamerreturnstoAthensonthe followingday.—Smallersteamersoccasionallymakespecialexcursions tothefootofthehillonwhichthetempleofJSginastands;seethe billsthe atstreet-cornersandinthehotels.Horsesmeettheseboats. The ascentoftheOros(p.139)requiresabout6V2hrs.including stoppages; ifanearlystartismadefromMgina.(notlaterthan9a.m.) itcanbecombinedwithavisittotheruinedtemple(horseforthewhole day10-12dr.).—Themostcomfortablewayofmakingthetourisof courseundertheguidanceofacourier; anditisalsoadvisabletotake someprovisionsandwraps. SometimesavisittoSalamisiscombinedwiththisexcursion.Ifthe windisfavourable,asailofabout3hrs.takesusacrosstoKoulouri(p.114) ortoMoulkiy1M.fromKoulouri,intheS.E.angleofthebayofKoulouri (sailing-boat1042dr.andgratuitytothecrew);butinacalmthriceas longmayberequired. Shortly aftersettingsailweenjoyafineretrospectofAthens, withPentellkoninthebackground.Totherightappearsthe 136 Itoute10. /EGINA. rugged. E coastofSalamis,culminatingintheMavroVouni(1247ft.), andonthelefttheloftymountainsofjEgina,slopinggradually N.E.tothesea,andhearingontheirskirtsthetemple,whichcomes intoviewasweapproach.Fartherontheviewtotherightem bracesthe islandsPenteNisia, of Platonisi,Sachtero,andIpsiti, groupedinfrontofthemountainsofArgolis; andassoonaswe haveleftSalamisfairlybehindus, wecatchsightof thedistant Megara(p.148),situatedonitstwohills.TotheS.theislandof Angistri,theancientKekryphaleia, comesintoview.Thetownof /EginaisnotvisibleuntilweroundtheW.coastoftheisland,on whichstandthetumulus,mentionedatp.137,andthelonely columnsofthetemple.(Landing501.foreachperson.) JEgina.—Hotels.XenodochiontonXenon(H6i.desEtrangert), R.dr., 2 tolerablyclean,withgoodrestaurant;Thkake,Europe,similar; allonthebeach.—BestCafisinthePlatfa. Aigina , thecapitaloftherockyislandof^Egina(Alfivo; 33sq. M.)inthemiddleoftheSaronicGulf,isprettilysituated.The housesextendalongthebroadquays,fromwhichnarrowlaneslead inland.Thetowncontains4300inhab.,ormorethanhalfofthe totalpopulation(7100)oftheisland.Theview fromthequay embracesthelittleislandsofMom,Metopi,andAngistri,andthe mountainsofEpidauros(p.243).InthePlatiaisaloftypedestal witha marblebustofJohnKapodistriai, presidentofGreece (p.250),erectedin1887.Theislanderssupportthemselvespartly byagricultureandthecultivationofolives, figs, andalmonds, whichnourishintheneighbourhoodofthetown,butchieflyby tradewiththeadjacentmainlandandbyfishing.Thesponge- fishery,carriedonbydiversinspringandsummer,isaprofitable branchofthelatter.Potteryisalsomade,the and'Kannatia'or water-coolersofjEgina,two-handledjarswithwidemouths,are well-knowninthemarketsofthePiraeusandAthens. The legendaryancestorofthe.fliginetanswasAktkos,sonofZeusand jEginaandfatherofPeleusandTelamon,whobecamethecolleagueof MinosandRhadamanthosasjudgeinthenetherworld,onaccountof hiswiseandjustgovernment.Historicallytheislandfirstappearsasa colonyoftheDoricEpidauros(p.243); andinthe 8thcent.B.C.it belonged,withitsmother-city,tothedomainofPhidonofArgos(p.256). Atthebeginningofthe6th.cent.>EginadetacheditselffromEpidauros, ;isCorcyradidfromCorinth,andspeedily attainedsuchapitchofpros peritythatCorinthalonecouldrivalit. ThejEginetanshadtrading- stationsfarandwide,anddisposedoftheirbrazengoods,pottery,oint ments,andotherproductsinUmbria,ontheBlackSea,andinEgypt. ^Eginetanship-ownerswereheldtobetherichestmerchantsinthe Grecianworld;andiEginetanmoney,stampedwiththeimageof ator toise,wasoneofthemostwidelycirculatedGreekcoinages.Coinsof ./Eginahavebeenabundantlyfoundinmoderntimes.Theoutbreakof the Persianwarfoundtheislandatthezenithofitspower;anditwas oneofthethirtyshipsfromjEginathatobtainedtheprizeforthegreat estbraveryinthebattleofSalamis.Itisnonethelesstrue,however, thattheislanders,fromcommercialmotives,hadatfirstofferedearthand watertotheambassadorofDariusintokenofsubmission; andtheywere accordinglycalledtoaccountbySpartaontheaccusationofAthens. ThiswasthefirstofaseriesofcontentionswiththeAthenians,towhom JEGWA. 10.Route.137 ^gina,touse theexpressionofPerikles,wasaconstant'eye-sore';its subjugationwasindispensabletotheextensionofthenavalpowerof Athens.TheAtheniannavalvictoriesatKekryphaleiaandoffJBgina, quicklyfollowingoneachother,weredecisive.Inspiteofwarscarried onatthesametimeatMeganandinEgypt,theAthenianstookthecity inB.C.456afteraninemonthssiege;the^3ginetanshadtorazetheir walls,surrendertheirwar-ships,andpayatribute.Buteventhesesevere measuresseemedinsufficient;forwhenthePeloponnesianWarbrokeout in431, theiEginetanswereexpelledaltogetherfromtheirisland,which wasthendividedamongAtticcitizens.ThoughthefallofAthensin404 wasthesignalforthereturnofmanyoftheislanders,iEginaneverre covereditsprosperity.Athensquicklyregainedherpowerandsentre peatedexpeditionswhichoncemorereducedtheisland,andthenceforth .fliginasharedthefortunesoftheAtticstate. The moderntown,whichoccupiesalmostexactlythesame siteasitspredecessor,containsfewinterestingantiquities.On amoundalittletotheN., consistingalmostentirelyofrubbish, pot-sherds,etc.risesaDoriccolumn,about25ft.high, whichis saidtohave belongedtoaTempleofAphrodite.Afragmentofthe substructureofthebuildingisalsoextant;buttherestwasused in theconstructionofabreakwaterbyPresidentKapodistrias,who fixedhisresidenceiniEginain 1828.—TheremainsoftheAncient Moles,whichmadeupforthewantofa naturalharbour,arein betterpreservation.OntheS.moleisamediaevaltower,whilethe N.molebearsalighthouseandthewhitechapelofSt.Nicholas. Themoles,whicharewell seenfromthetemple,appeartohave beenacontinuationofthecity-walls.—Cafe's,seep.135. A Tumulus,1M.farthertotheN.,notunliketheSor6satMa rathon,hasbeendescribed,thougherroneously,asthegraveof Phokos,whowasslainbyhishalf-brothersPeleusandTelamon. AgoodviewofMegaramaybeobtainedhencethroughatelescope. To theS.ofthetownliesthelargeOrphanage(opcpavoTpocpeiov) builtbyKapodistrias,andatpresentusedasabarrackandprison. Theentrancegate,infrontofwhichareafewsculpturedfragments andinscribedstones,leadsintoalargecourt,adjoinedbyanopen arcadecontainingafewsculpturedremains.Totheleft,inthe farthercorner,besideawell,anancientsubterraneanTombhas beenpreserved.Removingtheplankswhichcovertheentrance, wedescendashortwinding-stairtoadarkapartment,withwalls coveredwithrudesketches,someofwhichareancient. The mostimportantrelicofantiquity,whichevenbyitself wouldrepayavisittojEgina,istheruinedtemple('staesKol6n- naes)about2'/2 nrs-distant.Theroadissufficientlypuzzlingto renderaguidenecessary; anditsroughandstonynaturemakes ridingadvisable.Atfirstittraversesvineyards,amongstwhich arenumerousancientgraves,nowplantedwithfig-trees; andthen itpassescornfields,thesoilofwhichisinfewplacesmorethan 3ft.deep.Wethenskirttheslopesofsomelowhills,andpass severalchapels.Abouthalfwayweseeonarockyeminencetothe lefttheruinsofa mediievalcastle,risingabovethedesertedvil 183 Route10. .EGINA. lagef o Palaeochora,whichinformercenturieswastherefugeof theinhabitantsoftheislandfromthecorsairs.Butforthevisits ofshepherdstotheexcellentspringthesiteisnowquiteundisturb ed,exceptatthecelebrationtheannual of 'Panegyris'inthePa- nagfaChapel.TheroadnextpassesachapelofSt.Athanasius, overthedoorofwhichisinsertedaninscribedblockofstonethat formerlyservedtomarkthelimitofthesacredprecinctofAthena. Thenceweascendtotheruins,situatedonasummit,conspicuous moreonaccountofitscomparativeisolationthanofitsheight. The **TempleofAthena,long believedtobeashrineofZeus Panhelleniosbutnowidentifiedbeyonddisputewiththetempleof AthenamentionedbyHerodotus,wasaDoricperipteral,hexastyle with12columnsoneachside.AsintheTheseion,thepronaos andposticumaredistyleinantis.Oneachsideintheinteriorof thecellawasarowoffivemoreslenderandmorecloselyplaced columns,which,likethesimilarcolumnsintheParthenon,sup portedtheroof.Oftheoutercolonnadeonly20columnsare standing,mainlythoseoftheE.facadeandtheadjacentpartsof thesides.Theyallretaintheirentablature.Twocolumnsofthe pronaosarealsostillstandingwiththeirentablature.Travellers of lastcenturyrecordthattwoothercolumnsof theoutercolonnade werethenstanding,besidesfiveintheinterior,whichnowpresents nothingbutaconfusedheapofruins.Theheightofthecolumns withtheircapitalsis17ft.5in.; theirdiameteratthebaseis3ft. 1 in.andatthetop2ft.3in.Thematerialofthetempleisa yellowishlimestone,evenyetpartlycoveredwithauniformcoating ofstucco.Someofthecolumnsaremonolithic,butmostofthem consiBtofseveraldrums; afewarestrengthenedwithironrings. TheroofandthesculpturedornamentsofPentelic weremarble. Theirregularjointsinthefloorof thecella,thenumeroussubdivi sionsoftheposticum,andtheholesinthefloorofthepronaos,in whicharailingwasfastened,shouldbenoticed.Thesculptures fromthepedimentsofthetemple,discoveredamongtherubbish bysomeEnglishandGermantravellersin1811,werepurchasedin thefollowingyearbytheCrownPrinceLewisofBavariafor20,000 scudi(com.p.Ixviii)andremovedtoMunich,wheretheynow formthechief treasuretheGlyptothek. of Castsofsomeofthem areintheBritishMuseum.TheyrepresentcontestsoftheJEgi- netanswiththeTrojans.Theedificeasawhole,aswellasitssculp tures,conveysanimpressionofconsiderableantiquity; itcertainly cannotbemorerecentthanthe6thcent.B.C—Fine"View. ThehilluponwhichthetemplestandsdescendsontheN.side sheerintoaflatvalley(Vagid),inwhichliethechapelsofSt.De metriusandPanagtastenNesfda,thelatterclosetothesea.The flatsummitisenclosedpartlybynaturalridgesofrockandpartlyby wallsofmasonry.AlittletotheS.isa terrace,withsomeruins, probablybelongingtothesubsidiarybuildingsofthesanctuary. 10. Route.139 Ifn a earlyenoughstarthave beenmadetoallowofourleav ingthetemple-ruinsbymidday,wemayvisitonthesamedaythe Oros,thehighestpointoftheisland.Onourwaythitheralong theE.coastwepassthebayofSt.Marina,theonenaturalhar bouroftheisland,butdeprivedofimportancebyitsdistancefrom thefertiledistricts.OursomewhatfatiguingroutepassesPortaes andothershepherds'stationsandin2^2hrs.reachesthechapel ofHagiosAsdmatos(HolyAngel,i.e.theArchangelMichael),near whichoncestooda templeofAphaea,a goddesssomewhatre semblingArtemis.Thereareafewtracesoftheterraceand en circlingwall.Henceasteepclimbof%hr.takesustothetop. The *OroB(1742ft.),nownamedSt.Eliasafterachapelonits summit,isthemostoonspicuouspointintheentireSaronicGulf andattractstheeyeofeverytravellerwhosailsacrossthegulffrom theE.orS. Beforerainthecloudsgatherrounditspeak,acir cumstancemanifestlyreferredtointhelegendthatonceaftera longdroughtjEakos,attherequestoftheGreeks,besoughthisfather Zeusforrain,andthatwhenthe prayerwasgranteda templewas erectedtoZeusonthemountain.Thespotwascertainlyaseatof thecultofZeusPanhellenios,butitpossessedonlyalargealtar andnotemple.Relicsthe ofoldencirclingwall,whichfollowed thecrestin acurvingline,maystillbetraced;andafewancient blockshavebeenbuiltintothewallsofthechapel. The*Viewisparticularlyfine.Wesurvey almosttheentireisland, theonlyparthiddenheingthehillofPalseochora,behindMt.Sal6ne.The townof^Eginainveryconspicuous.Nootherpointaffordssocomprehen siveaviewoftheSaronicGulf,withSalamis,theMethouridaenearMe- gara,theDiapdriabetween.£ginaandthepromontoryofSpeiraeon,An- gistriandtheothersmallislands,thepeninsulaofMethana,the island ofKalauria,andHagiosQeorgios(p.134);whiletheAtticCoast,Megaris, Corinthanditsisthmus,Epidaurosandagreatpartthe ofArgolicPenin sula,andlastlytheislandofHydra,alsofallwithintheview. We descendtotheChapelofHagiosAsomatos(seeabove),and thenpassingBajerdkiandanother smallervillage,were-enterthe capitaloftheislandinabout2hrs.

11. Syra,Mykonoa,andDelos. From thePiraeustoSyrasteamboatsply4timesaweekin9-10hrs. (thePanhelleniossteamersonFrid.at8p.m.,andthoseofthetfowdtCo.onSun., Tues.,andThurs.at8p.m.);fares14dr.201.—FromSyratoMykonos, steamersaweek oncein3hrs.—FkomMykonostoDelosweproceed sometimesbyalocalsteamer,butusuallybysailing-boat,accomplishing thedistancein1hr.ifthewindbefavourable.ToseeDelosproperly takesatleastoneday.Thewholeexcursionabsorbsagreatdealoftime andisscarcelyworththetroubleexceptforarchteologists. DeparturefromthePiraeus,seep.3.Thevesselsthenskirt CapeColonna,theancientSunion(p.132),andsteerbetweenKea (Keos)orTziaandThermia(Kythnoa),passingtotheS.ofQioura (Oyaros).InthedistanceweseeAndrosandthen(totheleft)Tenos. WethenroundtheN.endoftheislandofSyraandreach— 140 Route11. HERMOUPOLIS. Hermoupolis*—EmbarkationandDisembarkationasatthePirieus (idr.).Astrictbargainshouldbemadewiththeboatmen,whoatfirst makeextravagantdemands; theyunderstandItalian. Hotels. Hotelde laVille,Hoteld'Angleterre, bothinthe Platfa,R.3-5dr.,pens.10dr.—GoodGreekcookeryattheXenodochion tottSUmmatos,attheharbour. SteamboatOfficesattheharbour,totherightofthelanding-place.— SailingBoattoMykonos,20-30dr. PostOfficethe inRued'Apollon,neartheharbourandthePlatia. BritishConsul,WilliamH.Cottrell,Esq.—AmericanConsularAgent, BasilPadova,Esq. HermoupolisorNea-Syros,atownwith22,100inhab.,thecap italoftheislandofSyrosorSyra,andtheseatofthenomarchof theCyclades,a RomanCatholichishop, andaGreekarchbishop, ispicturesquelysituatedontwohillsrisingfroma beautiful andshelteredhay.ItsowesitsorigintotherefugeesfromChios andPsara,whosettledhereafterthedevastationoftheirisland- homesin1821.Itsfavourablesituationonthedirectrouteof steamersforConstantinopleandtheBlackSeafostereditstrade, andtwentyyearsagoHermoupoliswastheprincipalcommercial townofGreece,thoughnowit issurpassedbyAthens,thePiraeus, andPatras. Thetownconsistsoftwomainstreetsandthelargesquareor market-place(TcXateTa,platfa).InthelatterrisestheHagiaMe tamorphosis,orChurchof theTransfiguration.TotheN.liesthe newtown,withthehandsomedomedchurchofSt.Nicholas.To theS.isthe oldtown,whichpossessesship-buildingyardsanda much-frequentedspring. A widestreetascends,atplacesbyflightsofsteps,tothemed iaevalPalteo-Syros,whichisinhabitedalmostexclusivelyby RomanCatholicdescendantsofVenetiansettlers.Thesepersons, whostoodunder FrenchprotectionduringtheTurkishdomination, havealwaysfeltmoreor lessantagonistictotheorthodoxGreeks andtheytooklittleshareintheWarofLiberation.Onthehighest point(1hr.)standstheRomanCatholicChurchofSt.George,com mandinganadmirableviewofSyraandthesurroundingislands.— AstillmoreextensiveviewisobtainedfromthePtroos(1615ft.), ahillconsistingofmarbleveinedwithmica.Thepathtothetop beginsabouthalfwayupthehillofSt.George,turnstotheleftat thedye-works,andfartheronascendsinan almoststraightdirec tion.About1/2hr.fromthesummitstandsrecently-built the church ofHagiaParaskeve(thepriestsofferrefreshments). Thosewhohavea wholedaytospendhereshouldnotfailtovisit thePanagiadellaGrazia,beautifullysituatedontheE.coastofthe islandandreachedbyaneasycarriageroad,passingthroughthebest cultivatedpartoftheisland(2-3hrs.; carr.15dr.).Thosewhoprefer towalkshouldasktobeshownthefootpath,whichisshorterbutmore toilsome(li/zhr.).Agoodbutsomewhatexpensivedinnermaybeob hoodtainedisinathepre-HellenicKaffenionNecropolis,atthePanagiatheclaydellaurnsGrazia.found—inInwhich theneighbourarenow inAthens. MYKONOS.11.Route.141 Voyage promSyratoMykonos(steamersandboats,seep.139). OnleavingSyrawehaveaflueretrospectofGiouraandAndros. Tenosthencomesintosighttotheleft; thetownonitisconspicuous longbeforewereachit.Abovethetownisthepilgrimage-church ofSt.Evangelistria,whosefestival,occurringthreeweeksbefore Easter,isnumerouslyattended,specialsteamersplyinghitherfrom Athens.TotheS.wenowseetheislandsofMegaleDelos(p.146) andMikraDelos(p.142),totheS.W.,Mykonos,andfarthertothe S.,NaxostParos,andSiphnoa.Thesteamerstopsatthecapitalof Mykonos,whichhearsthesamenameastheisland. MykonOS.—Arrivalas inHermoupolisinSyra.—TheEpistatesof theantiquities,EliasAnapliotis,orthecustodian,AndreasPountouris, providesfortheaccommodationofstrangers.ThehouseKonsolinaaffords goodaccommodation,R.3dr.,mealstoorder. Mykonos,inmodernGreekKamenaki,a pleasanttownwith 3400inhabitants,liesin asemicircleroundabayontheW.coast ofthelargerockyisland(35sq.M.),apparentlyonthesiteofthe ancientcapital.AttheE.endof thetownliesabeautifulgarden, laidoutinthe18thcent,(visitorsadmitted).Overthedoorofan adjacenthouseisalate-Greektombrelief. The Museum,whichcontainsthebulkoftheyieldoftheDe- lianexcavations(thebestspecimensareintheNationalMuseumat Athens),isin thehouseKamvanis,neartheharbour.Admission isobtainedthroughtheepistates(seeabove); thekeyisincharge ofthecustodian. RoomI. Onthewalls:Nos.2,8, 9,10, 11,12,14, 20.Eightarchaic lifesizefemalefigures,ingracefulflowing drapery,someofwhichare probablyvotivestatuesofpriestessesofArtemis(No.is 12anAthena); 5,24.MaleFiguresofasimilarkind; 3,6.Archaicheads; 24.Trunkof anarchaicsitting figure.Twoshaftsofhermae, withfiguresandin scriptionsscratchedupon them(onallthreesidesofNo.10).'Tomb stoneof Aphrodisios,representingthedeceased standinginboat, a agood Atticworkofthe 4thcent.; 42.Torsoofaboy,inthesameattitudeas thecelebratedErosofPraxiteles\ TorsooftheyouthfulHercules.Torso ofPanwithpipes.Twoarchaiclions;largeinscriptionbetweenthem. *69.Fragmentofa reliefrepresentinga womansitting;38.Womanin longdrapery;*36.Headofayouth;825.Reliefoftwomenwithpointed hats,onecarryingameasuring-rod,theotherastaff,standingbesidean altar,whichwasoriginallypainted(thisreliefwasdiscoveredin 1881near theTempleoftheForeignGods,p.145).In themiddleoftheroomare smallerobjects,potsherdsintheMyceneanstyle,small horsesinclay, arrow-heads,bronzefiguresofanimals,archaicterracottas,etc.383,384. Femalefigures,onesittingandtheotherstanding(fromthealtarofthe ForeignGods,p.145);94.Marblefigureofayouthreclining.Inanother compartmentareanarchaicstatuetteofa woman,andvarioussmall reproductionsofcelebratedstatuesofVenus(Nos.16,86,88,89);terra cottalampswithfinereliefs.—BackRoom.57.Lionessdevouringastag, inthebestAtticstyle;19.Archaicfigureofayouthon horseback;six weather-beatenfrieze-slabs,withrepresentationsof battlesandsitting figuresofthegods,whichwerefoundattheN.endoftheHallofthe Bulls(p.143). RoomI. I Well-preservedmeasuring-table,withfourhollowsfor fluids,andanescape-channel;alsonumerousunimportantfragments. Apleasantwalkmaybetakenalongthepathleadinground 142 Route11. DELOS. theN.E.armof thebaytothe topofthehill.—HagiosEtias (1195ft.),thehighestmountaininMykonos,liesintheN. part oftheisland; itissupposedtobetheDimastosof the ancients.The interestingascentmaybecombinedwitharidetotheE.tothe villageofTourliani(mule4dr.,tothefootofthemountain2dr.). As theN.windoftenblowswith suchviolenceas torenderthe Ipurneyimpossibleformanydaysatatime,thefirstcalmdayshould bemadeuseofforanexcursiontoDelos,calledbymodernGreeks 'LesserDelos'(MikrdDilos;23/4M.longby3/$M.broad)in contradistinctiontotheislandRheneia of (p.146)or'Greater Delos1.Ingoodweatherthepassagetakesabout1 hr.The fareforsmall a boatthereandbackisabout8dr.(AntoniosPassas mayberecommendedasboatman),foralargerboat30-40dr. Thetravellermusttakeprovisionswithhim,asthereno areinhab itantsontheisland,exceptafewshepherdsandthecustodianwho conductsvisitorsovertheexcavations(fee1-2dr.). The HistoryofDelos,themythicalbirthplaceofApolloandArtemis, isidenticalwiththehistoryofitstempleanditsharbour.Theoldest settlerswerePhoeniciansandCarians.AftertheirexpulsionbytheIo- nians,theislandbecamethereligiouscentreoftheIonianracesonaccount ofitsworshipofApollowhichevidentlyreplacedanearlierCariancult. EveryyeartheIoniansheldsplendidgameshere,saidtohavebeenin auguratedbyTheseus.Fromthe8thcent.B.C.Athenswascloselyal liedwithDelos,anditwasPeisistratoswhoordainedthefirst'purifica tion'of Delos,i.e.theremovalofthetombsfromthetempleenclosure,a measurewhichwasafterwardsextendedtotheprohibitionof burialon anypartthe ofisland.ThepoliticalimportanceofDelosisshownby thefactthatafterthePersianWars,whentheIonianLeaguewasfounded, thetempleofApollowaschosenasthetreasuryoftheLeague.The treasurewas,however,removedtoAthensasearlyas454B.C.,which at timeDelosandtheotherislandsbecamesubjecttoAthensremainingso untilthetimeofAlexandertheGreat(about334-331).Initsensuingperi odofindependenceDelosbecametheseatofaflourishingcommerce;for eigntradingcompanies,suchastheHermaistae(consistingofRomans), thePoseidoniasiae(consistingofSyriansfromBerytos),andothers,had theircentrehere,andvariouslargebuildingswereerected(comp.p.145). WhentheRomans,whohadexercisedkindof aprotectorateoverDelos sinceL66B.C.,againcededthe islandtotheAthenians,thetownad vancedwithevenmorerapidstrides,especiallyafterthedestructionof Corinth(p.233),butthedevastationoftheislandbythegeneralsofMi- thridatesintheyear88B.C.putanendtoitsprosperity.Thecomplete destructionofthetownhappenedin69B.C.duringthewarswiththe pirates. The Excavationsonthesiteoftheancienttownwerebegunbythe FrenchArchaeologicalSchoolatAthens(p.94).In1873thebuildings onMt.KynthoswerefirstlaidbarebyLeb&gue,whoseworkwascontin uedbyStamatakis.In1877begantheexcavationsofthetownproper, under,themanagementofHomolle,Hauvette-Besnault)Retnach,Paris, Fougkres,andothers. BoatssaiUngfromMykonostoDelosgenerallyroundtheS.end ofthelatterisland,affordingaconstantviewoftheloftyformof Mt.Kynthos(p.146).WelandattheancientharbourontheW. coastofDelos,afewpacesdistantfromthesacredenclosure,com mandedbythelargeandhigh-lyingtempleofApollo.

DELOS. 11.Route.143 Passingthefoundationsofabuildingofa laterepoch,wefirst reachwhatisbelievedtohavebeenthePropylaea(PI.1),asquare structurewithashallowporticoontheS.side.TotheN.ofthis isasmallIonicbuilding(PI.2),whichhasbeenidentifiedwiththe ArtemisionorwiththeTempleoftheSevenOods,thelattersup positionhavingbeensuggestedbythediscoveryof severalarchaic femalestatuesinthevicinity.TotheleftofthePropylaeaare severalPedestalsforEquestrianStatues(PI.3), thesmallest andmostN.ofwhich,accordingtoanadjacentinscription('L. G. CorneliusL.F., SullaProcos'.)boreastatueSulla. of —Beyond thispointthe'SacredWay'leadstotheso-calledTreasuries,where itbendstotheS.andapproachestheE.frontoftheTempleof Apollo.Totherightofthepatharethefoundationsofabuilding ofunknownimport,andadjacentaretheremainsofanotheredifice, 67ft.longand35ft.wide,supposedtobetheTempleopLatona (PI.3),which,as.weknowfromancientwriters,layclosetothat ofApollo.Thewallsandarchitecturalfragmentshereareofgood and.skilfulworkmanship,andthelattershowthatthetemplewas oftheDoricorder.ThegroupsoftheRapeofOrithyeiaandof Kephalos(nowinAthens),foundhere,mayperhapshavebeenpla cedasacroteriaonthetopsthe oftwopediments,thefigures while ofNikeprobablyservedthesamepurposeattheangles.Possibly, however,thesesculpturesbelongedtothetempleofApollo. ThegreatTbmpleopApollo,theplanofwhichresemblesthat oftheTheseionatAthens,was86ft.longand44ft.wide.The remainsofthemassivefoundations,restingonabedofgreyish blueslate,showthatthetemplewasaperipteralhexastyle,probably with13columnsatthesides.Thepronaosandopisthodomosseem tohaveopenedtotheE.andW.withtwocolumns'inantis'.The cellawas37'/2ft.longandI8V3ft-broad.Fewaidstodetermine thearchitecturalappearanceof thetempleremainexceptsome fragmentsofthetriglyphsandof theDoriccolumns.Thelatter havebeenleftsmooth; theonlytracesofflutingareatthetopand bottomoftheshaft.Theremainsoftheplasticadornmentare confinedtothepalmettesandlion'sheadsofthesima.Thebuild ing,whichprobably replacedanoldertemple,issupposedtodate fromthethirdcenturybeforetheChristianera. Near thetemplestoodtheHornedAltarofApollo(nepaxivo; fSaju-oi;),sonamedfromtheram's hornsofwhichitwaspartly composed,andregardedbytheancientsasoneofthesevenwonders oftheworld.Recentinvestigatorsbelievetheyhavefoundthis altarintheN.partoftheso-calledHalloftheBulls,totheE. ofthegreattemple. Thisstructure,whichis220ft.longand29ft.wide,isreferredtothe Hellenisticperiodandisoneof(hebest-preservedontheisland.Abase orplatformofgranitesupportedthreemarblesteps,stillpartlyinsitu, whichledtothewallwithwhichthebuildingwassurroundedontheN., E.,andW.The8.endprobablyopenedonaDoricportico'inantia\ 144 Route11. DELOS. Enteringatthisendandcrossingthevestibule,wereachanoblonghall, withaholloworbasininthemiddleOftheplasticadornmentofthis chamber,aNereidandadolphinstillremain.Severalstepsascendtoa thirdroom,theentrancetowhichisenclosedbyDoricpilasters.The 'taurine1capitalsofthese,representingrecumbentbulls,gaverisethe to namebywhichthebuildingisnowdistinguished.Theinteriorwalls were,perhaps,adornedwithacontinuousfrieze,ofwhichtheslabsmen tionedatp.141mayhave formedpart.Thescatteredblocksofmarble herearesupposedtohavebelongedtothehornedaltar.—Thestepped erectionattheS.endofthehallbelongedtoanAltarofZeusPolieus. "We nowturntothepartthe ofsacredenclosuretotheW.of theTempleofApollo,whereourattentionis firstarrestedhythe baseofa ColossalStatueofApollo(PI.5),erected,accordingto theinscription,hytheNaxians.Adjacentlietwolargefragments ofthehodyofthestatue,ahandispreservedinthekeeper's house,andpartone offootisintheBritishMuseum.Thestatue wasa veryarchaicwork.Thegodwasrepresentednakedand girtabouttheloinswithametalapron,position the ofwhichand tracesofitsfasteningmaystillbeseenonthefragmentsofthe body.—ImmediatelytotheS.ofthisbaseliesaPortico(PI.5), dividedintotwopartsbyarowofeightIoniccolumnsandextended towardstheS.hywallsaddedata laterperiod.Closehyisasmall structureoftheDoricorder,approachedbythreestepsandsup posedtoheaPropylaeon(PI.6); theinscriptionrecordsthatitwas dedicatedtoApollobytheAthenians.FartheronistheStoaof Philip,whichconsistsoftwoparallelcolonnadesintheDoricstyle; accordingtothestillextantinscriptiononthearchitrave(BaotXeui McraeoovrovOiAnnrocBaaiXem?ATju-TjTpiou'ArcdXXam)itwaserect edbyPhilipV.ofMacedonia.Theupperpartsonlyofthecolumns arefluted.—TotheS.E.ofthesmallPropylseaaretheExedraof Soteles(PI.7)andthefoundationsofanotherColonnade,thelatter runningparalleltotheStoaofPhilip.Betweenthetworanthepath leadingfromtheS.totheTemenosandtheTempleofApollo. We nowreturntothelargePropylsea(PI.1; p.143)andpro ceedtotheN.totheremainsofatemple,whichhas notbeen yet exploredbutisknownastheAphrodision,fromastatueofAphro ditefoundcloseby.Beyondthekeeper'shouse,whichcontains afewinscriptionsandfragmentsofsculptures,istheAgora. TheAgoba,themarketduringtheRomanperiod,wasalarge rectangularcourt,thewallswhich, of asshownhyfoundations stillexistingtotheW.,wereadjoinedontheoutsidebystore houses.TheinteriorofthecourtwassurroundedhyDoric colon nades,adjoinedbynichesresemblingexedra?andhysquarerooms. Severaloftheinscriptionsandworksofarthavebeenpreserved. AmongthelatterisaStatueofC. Ofellius,whichhasbeenre- erectedontheW.side,closetoit6originalbase.Itisaworkof theAtheniansculptors,DionysiosandTimarchides(2ndcent.B.C.), and showsthe influenceofthePraxitelianschoolinideaandexe cution.Alargemosaic,9ft.longand5ft.wide,wasdiscoveredin DELOS. 11.Route.145 onef o theN.recesses,buthasbeencoveredupagain; itrepresents ahighdrinking-vessel,agarland,apalm-branch,andasmalltablet, andbearstheinscription: [Io7iXio«Soapixovto;UottXiouul6{.Inthe recesstotheE.ofthiswasfoundthefigureofaGaulovercomein combat(p.103).—TheN.colonnadeoftheAgorawasconnected withtheschool ofHermaistae, the Apolloniastae,andPoseidoniattae (p.142),thesiteofwhichisnowcoveredbymodernbuildings.— TheroundSacredLake,onthebankofwhichLatouaissaidto havegivenbirthtoApollo,closestheTemenosonthisside.— FarthertotheN.,nearthesea,laytheOymnaaiumandtheSta- dion,thelatterhavingitsN.W.sidebuiltintothenaturalrock. AtitsN.endisafountainwithgooddrinking-water. WenowbendourstepstotheS.E.,towardsMt.Kynthos,half wayuptheslopeofwhichisaterrace,boundedontheE.bythe naturalrockandthe onW.byasupporting-wallofByzantinecon struction.Onthisterrace,totheleft,isasmallCircularBuilding (PI.9),theobjectofwhichisunknown;totherightisaSquare Building(VI.10),withamosaicfloor.Herebeginsthepavedway, stillpartlypreserved,whichleadstothegrottoofApollo.Wepass somewallsoflateconstructionandseveralbasesforvotivestatues. Totheleftisasmallchamber(PI.11),adjoininganarrowpodium orplatform,withacolumnarportico.Thebaseofavotiveoffering erectedinhonourofKingMithridatesandhisbrotherstilloccupies itsoriginalpositionhere.Wenowreachthe— Templef o theFobeignGods,inwhichSerapis,Isis,Anubis, andHarpocratesweretheobjectsofworship. This buildingdatesfromthelatterhalfofthe2ndcent.B.C.,when thecultoftheseEgyptiandeitieswasintroducedintoGreece.Itstands fromtotheK.S.towithS.andtwoconsistscolumnsof'inaantis'cella•,andtheaanteepronaos.probablyTheendedlatterinopenedshort transversewalls.Neithercapitalsnorbaseshavebeenfound; theshafts ofthecolumnsareflutedthe inlowerpartsonly.Marblebenchesrun alongthe E.andW.walls ofpronaos. the Thepartition-wallbetween thecellaandpronaosispiercedbyadoor.Thelargesubstructureinthe cellaissupposedtobethelowerpartan ofaltar.TheW.wallofthe templehasbeenentirelyremovedandusedintheconstructionofbuild a inginfront apparentlyofmediasvalorigin. Continuingto ascend,wepasssomeancientcuttingsinthe rocksandalsoanancientinscriptionCAf)rpd-r]t'Op-favT]?),hewnin therockanddatingfromthe5thcent.B.C.Wenexttraversetwo terracessupportedbywallssolid ofmasonry,andreachtheGkotto opApollo,themostvenerablesanctuaryinDelos. Thisconsistsofawidecleftintherock,barredinfrontbyaprim itivewallwitha widedoorway.Themarblejambsandlintelof the latterwereaddedafterwards.Theroofisformedbytenhugeslabsof granite,onwhichliesmallerstones.Lightisadmittedbyanopeningin therear.Totherightisanicheorrecessintherock,containingalarge unhewnblockofgranite,thetopofwhichseemstohavebeenprepared forthereceptionofastatue.Asmallchannelforwaterrunsalongthe leftwall.Intheopenspaceinfrontofthegrottoareasacrificialpitand a roundmarblebase,of alatterperiod.Thelatterissupposedtohave supportedatripod,asthesimilarityofthearrangementtothoseatDelphi Baedeker'sGreece.'2ndEdit. 10 146 Route11. t)ELOS. andKlaroshasgivenrisetotheideathatthisalsomayhavebeenthe homeofanoracle. From thegrottothesacredwayascendedtothetopofMt.Ktn- thos (350ft.),whichwasformerlycrownedbytheTempleofZeus KynthiosandAthenaKynthia.Thescantyremainsherebelongtoa comparativelylateperiod.Thetopcommandsa fine*Viewof the Cycladeslyingin acircleroundDelos. IndescendingfromMt.Kynthos,towardstheW.,wehavethe entireHeldoftherainsofDelosspreadatourfeet.Onreaching thefootofthehill,wefollowthegorge,whichrunstotheW.from theterracementionedatp.145.Thisisthe drybedoftheInopos, which,ifwemayjudgefromthenumerouscisternswithinthetown precincts,wasnotmuchbetterprovidedwithwaterinantiquity. FarthertotheW.extendstheimportantpartthe oftownthat arose intheRomanperiod.Here,immediatelytotheN.ofthefounda tionsofacolonnade,aPrivateHousehasbeenexcavated. The arrangementsresemblethosewithwhichwearefamiliaratPom peii.Theentrancefacesthestreetalongwhichrantheabovementioned colonnade.Fromthevestibule,totherightandleftofwhicharerooms, wereachthespaciousatriumorcourt,thecentreofwhichisoccupied byanadmirablemosaic,sunksteps twobelowtheleveloftherestofthe floorandsurroundedbytwelveDoriccolumnsofwhitemarble.Tothe E.oftheatriumarethreeotherrooms,totheN.two.Thewallsof theseapartmentsareformedofsmallstonesembeddedinmortar,and wereformerlydecoratedwithstuccopaintedred,blue,andyellow. A fewarchitecturalremainstotheN.W.ofthishousebetoken thesiteoftheSanctuaryoftheCabiri,mysteriousdivinitieswhose cultwasprobablyofOrientalorigin(comp.p.165).TotheW., wherethegroundfallsabruptly,liestheTheatke.Theaudito rium,occupyingmuchmorethanasemicircle,issupportedbywalls ofHellenisticmasonry.Themarbleseatsofthefonrlowestrows arestillpartlyinsitu;thosetotherightinthelowestrowstill retaintheirbacks.Eightnightsofstepsledtotheupperrows. Nothingremainsofthestageandorchestraexceptthe foundations. Belowtheseisalargecistern. To theW. oftheislandofDelosliesMegdleDelos,theancient Rhenefa,theburial-placeoftheancientDelians,thehistoryof whichisquitedevoidofinterest.Thechannelbetweentheislands, about'/2M.broad,isinterruptedbytheMikroMegalo andRhevma- tiari,twobarerocks,thelatterofwhichwasknowntotheancients asthe'IsleofHecate'. The Greeksteamers(pp.xix,xx)plyalsotoothermembersofthe Cyclades(p. 3).Perhapsthemostinterestingofthoseasyetunmentioned isthevolcanicislandofThlraor Santorini(31 sq.M.),theabrupt,sickle- shapedW.coastofwhich,the withisletsofTheresiaandKaemeniinfront ofit,seemstooweitsformtothefallingin ofanancientcrater.The exuberantlyfruitfulsoilproducesexcellentwhiteandred'malmsey1(p.258) andotherwines,whichareexportedtoRussiainexchangeforgrainand timber.Thepopulationamountsto14,500,nearlyhalfofwhomare RomanCatholics. CENTRAL GREECE.

ThecentralpartofthemainlandofGreece,lyingtotheS.of a linedrawnbetweentheAmbracianGulf (BayofArta)ontheW. andtheMalicGulf(GulfofLamfa)antheE., isconnectedwith theN.districtsofEpirus(nowAlbania')andThessalybyanexten sivemountainsystem,towhichthegeneralnameofPindosis usuallygiven.Fromthissystemthe Othryschain(highestpoint 5580ft.),runstotheE.; the(Etachain(7050ft.),approach ingsoclosetothemarshycoastoftheMalicGulfastoleave roomonlyforthefamouspassofThermopylae(p.199),extendsto wardtheS.E.; andstillfarthertotheS.liesParnassos(8070ft.), withwhichareconnectedtheisolatedgroupsofHelicon,Kithaeron, andParnes.AsfarS.astheBoeotianplainandLakeKopais(p.187) thecountryisalmostentirelymountainous; anditisdividedinto clearlyseparatedterritories(Attica,Megaris,Boeotia,Phocis,West ernLocris,Doris,MaliswiththedistrictofG?ta,EasternLocris, orlandoftheOpuntianandtheEpiknemidianLocrians,JEtolia,and Acarnania).WiththeexceptionsoftheAcheloos(pp.28,32),which flowstowardstheW.,theSpereheios,intheplainofLamia,and theKephisos,whichentersLakeKopais, therearenoimportant rivers.Themajorityoftheinhabitantswereregardedinantiquity asbelongingtotheAchaean-MolicStock; butthehillydistrictof Doris(p.151)onMountCEta,andMegaris(p.148)wereinhabited byDorians,andAtticabyIonians(p.108).TheE.halfisat presentdividedamongthenomarchies(p.xlii)ofAtticaandBoeotia (2434sq.M.; 257,700inhab.),PhthiotisandPhocis(2348sq.M.; 136,470sq.M.),andEuboea(p.209). Thefollowingpageslimitthemselvestoa descriptionofthechiet routesintheE.halfofthisdistrict,whichaloneishistoricallyimportant; theW.half,inhabitedinclassict.mesby'semi-barbarians',isforthe presentomittedfromthisHandbook,exceptforthenoticesalreadygiven atpp.30-33.Railways(withtheexceptionoftheunder-mentionedline fromAthensthe andPiraeustoCorinth)donotexist;butoneisnow beingbuiltfromAthensviaThebestoLamiaandLarissa.Elsewherethe travellermusteitherdriveorride.Forthemodeoftravellingcompare theIntroduction,p.xiietseq. 12.FromAthenstoCorinthviaMegara. .67M Railway(SiderddromostisPeloponnesou)in3-33/4hrs. (fare* 10dr.10,8dr.751.;return,valablefor2days,19dr.601.,14dr.);to (30'/2lf.)Megarainca.H/ahr.(fares5dr. 80,4dr.551.; return10dr. 40, 7dr.301.).Therearethreetrainsdaily.Thebestviewsaretotheleft beyondEleusis.—Time-tableswithsomeinformationas tothelinefrom CorinthThetoline,Patras,whichmaybeginsbeobtainedattheatPiraeusthestation(5^2atM.)Athensbutis(PI.notB,available1; p. 34). 10* 148 Route12. MEGARA. FromAthens forlocaltrafficthence,startsfromthePeloponnesianStationat AthensandrunstotheN.acrossthe Atticplain.Totheleftappear thetomhsontheKolonos.Beyond(H/4M.fromAthens)MylaeQthe mills')wecrosstheKephisos.3M.KdtdLidsia;6M.AnoLidsia, thestationforChasiaandPliyle(seep.118). ThetrainnowrunstotheW.,throughthevalleybetween Aft.MgaleosontheS.andthebarrenspursofMt.Famesonthe N.,andenterstheThriasianPlain(p.115).—14=V2M.Kalyvia. .17M Eleusis,seep.115. The linenowskirtsthebaseofarangeofwoodedhills,rising hereandtherein^harppointscalledKerala,whichofold,asnow, formedtheboundarybetweenAtticaandMegara.Opposite,onthe theislandofSalamis,istheconventofPhaneromene,mentionedat p.114.TheplainofMegarisisrichinoilandwine. .301/2M Megara(RailwayRestaurant,poor;smallXenodochfon inthePlatfa),thecapitalofMegaris,with6260inhab.whoplume themselvesnotalittleontheirpureGreekdescentinthemidst ofa surroundingAlbanianpopulation,occupiesalmostthesame siteastheancientcity.Themodernhousesstillstretcnupthetwo heightsmentionedbyancientwriters; buttheoldcityextended fartherintotheplaintheS. TheEasterdancesoftheMegarean womenattractnumerousvisitorsfromAthens. Through Megara,whoseearliestinhabitantsaresaidtohavebeen CariansandLelegae,passthemainroadsfromN.GreecetothePelo ponnesus; andheretherivalcurrentsoftheDorians, wanderingfrom theN.,andtheIonians,advancingfromthe£.,met.Theseusissaidto haveextendedtheboundaryofthelatterasfarastheIsthmus.The legendaryexpeditionoftheDoriansagainstAttica,whichwasarrested beforeAthensbytheheroicdeathofKodros,leftMegarainthehandsof theDorians.Thecityattaineditszenithinthe8thand7thcent.B.C. Itwasa commercialrivaltoCorinthandsentforthseveralcolonies whichroselatertoahighpitchofpower,suchasChalcedonandByzan tiumontheBosphorus,HerakleiaontheEuxine,andMegaraHyblseainSi cily.ThetyrantTheagenes(630-600)wasapatronoftheartsandconstructed manybuildings,includingafamousaqueduct.TheprosperityofMegara collapsedwiththelossofSalamisin598B.C.(p.114);butitscitizens tooka heioicpartinthePersianwar,fightingbyseaatArtemisionand Salamis,andbylandatPlatsea.AdisputewithCorinthandMgin&led toa closerunionwithAthens,andtotheconstructionofthedouble wall,nearlyamilelong,betweenthetownanditsportofNisasa.But aftera shortinterval, thetraditionalantipathybetweenMegara and Athensagainrevived.The'MegareanPsephisma'1,a commercialre strictioncarriedoutapparentlyontheadviceofPeriklesin422,which excludedtheMegaieansfromalltheharboursandmarket-placesinAttic territory,wasoneofthecausesofthePeloponnesianWar.TheAthenians failedin theirrepeatedattemptstomakethemselvesmastersofMegara; butthetradeofthelatterwaspermanentlycrippledbythewar.—The servicesoftheMegareanstoartandsciencewerebutsmall.In the writingsofthehostileAthenians,whichareouronlysourceofinforma tionmoralityonthearesubject,alldescribedclumsiness,asbeingsenselesslMegarean\buffoonery,Some,andhowever,shamelessthoughim onexceedinglydoubtfulgrounds,haveascribedtheinventionofcomedy toMegara;butinanycasethegreatestgloryofthecityisduetoitshaving beenthehomeofthephilosopher(notthemathematician)Euclid(d.424 B.C.),whovisitedAthens,attheriskofhislife,inordertohearSocrates to Corinth. MEGARA. 12.Route.149 Leaving therailway-stationwetraverseanopenspacetowards theN.E.andthenpassthrougha side-street,withaschool,to thePlatfa,whichoccupiesthesiteoftheancientAgorais andthe starting-pointofthemainstreets.Theascentthencefirsttothede pressionbetweenthetwoeminencesofthetown,andthenonto theirsummitsiseasy.Thesmallerandlowerheight(totheE.), nowsurmountedhyawindmill,formerlyborethecastleoiKaria, ofwhicha fewpolygonalfragmentsremain.Thesteepsmooth facesofrockonitsS.sideareduetoquarryingoperations.The longerandhigherheighttotheW.borethecastleof Pelops'son Alkathoos,whomarriedthedaughterofKingMegareus,andbuilt thewallswiththehelpofApollo.Itwasnotatfirstincluded withinthetown-fortifications.ThenumerouschapelsonthisW. eminenceareingreatpartbuiltofancientblocks, witholdsculp turesandinscriptions.Bothheightscommandafineviewofthe townanditsenvirons,andoftheOeraneiaorMakriplagiMts.to theW.,withtwopeaks3465ft.and4495ft.highrespectively.— NearthePlatfaisasmallMuseum,containingsomeheadlessstatues, amarble*Vasewithareliefoftwohorsemen,andafewInscriptions. In theplain3/4M.totheN., nearamillandabridgespanning agorge,isanaqueductaffordingacopioussupplyof water.Several oftheancientwashing-troughsbesideitarestillused. Megara liesaboutl'/4M.fromthesea,withwhichitiscon nectedbyagoodroad.Attheendoftheroadtotherightisaround eminencecalledPalae6kastro,withtheruinsofa mediaevalforti fication,intowhichancientblockshavebeenbuilt.Thiswasfor merlytherockyislandofMinoa,whichinancienttimeslayoutside theharbourandwasconnectedwiththelandbyabridge.Itsname recallsthelegendarycaptureofMegarabytheCretanKingMinos. OppositeisthehillofSt.George,onwhichrosetheAcropolisof Nisaea,theportofMegara.OntheE.sideofthelittlepeninsula whichhereprojectsthe intoseaisthepresentskalaorpierof Megara.ThePalaeokastroandthechapelofSt.Georgearevisible fromtherailway-station. A pleasantexcursionmaybemadefromMegaratotheTempleofZeus Aphesioe,excavatedin1889,whichliesW\ihr.totheS.W.Thespot, nowknownasStaMarmara,isclosetotheE.baseoftheGeraneiaand commandsafineviewoftheSaronicGulf. Beyond Megaraweobtaina fineviewofthetowntotheleft, andthenanextensivesurveyofthemountainsofthePelopon nesus.Thetrainnowpassesthroughseveralrockycuttingsatthe footoftheGeraneia(seeabove),whichhere abutscloselyonthe sea.Therailwaycrossesanironbridgeatthenarrowestpart,afford- dinga viewoftheroad,whichrunsalongtheseafarbelowatthe footofanalmostperpendicularwallofwhitishrock,andispartly supportedbyancientbuttressesofpolygonalmasonry.Thisnarrow passistheformerlynotoriousKakeSkdla,knowntotheancients astheSkironianCliffs.AccordingtotheAtticlegenditwasthe 105 Route13. 1TEA. lurking-placeoftherobberSkiron,whousedtokicktravellersover theedge,untilhehimselfmetwiththesamefatefromTheseu6. AccordingtotheMegareans,however,Skironwasthebuilderofthe firstsaferoadhere.—43l/2M.HagiiThtodoriprobablyoccupies thesiteofKrommyon,thehauntoftheman-eatingsowslainby Theseus.AninscribedtombstonetoPhilostrata,builtintothe chapel-wall,andsomescatteredheapsofstonesaretheonlyremains oftheancientlittletown,towhichthewholeofthisdistrictbe longed.—Asweproceedweenjoya continuousviewofthe SaronicGulfandthemountainsofEpidauros.Ontheislandof Evraeonisiistheruinof amediaevalfortress.Aero-Corinthnow comesinsight.—40'/2M.Kalamaki,seep.236. Thetrainnowturnsinland,leavingontheleftthelittletown ofIsthmia(p.236)crossesthenewcanal(p.236)byabridge 230ft.highand90ft.long,andreaches— 67. M Corinth,seep.232. 13. FromCorinthtoDelphiviaItea. FromCorinthtoIteasteamertwiceaweekin4l/2hrs.(fares9dr.60, 7dr.70I.).—FromIteaonhorsebacktoDelphiin2'/2hrs.Notlessthan half-a-dayshouldbedevotedtoDelphi. Corinth,seep.232.Thesteamboat-quayis '/jM.fromthe station.Passengerswiththrough-ticketsforIte'aaretakenonto thesteamerbyrail; cab1 dr. The GulfofCorinthresemblesanextensivelake.Totheright risesthelongserratedformoftheHeraAkraea,nowcalledHagios Nilcdlaos,withitswhitecliapel.Ontheleftstretchesthefertile Acliaiancoast(comp.pp.33,238,239),backedbyarangeofgrad uatedheightsoverwhichtowerstherockyandgenerallysnow-capped Kyllene(themodernZiria;7790ft.;p.231),whilethepeakof Erymanthos(7300ft.; p.231)risesinthedistance.Ontheright, fartheron,thecoastisformedbysteepcliffsandabruptpromontories, withthebareroundedsummitsofthebroadHelicongroup(5150ft.) above; fartheroffthe steepcragsofParnasaos(8070ft.)rearthem selvesovertheflatgreenKirphis(4166ft.); andnotfaroffrisesthe woodedKionia(8240ft.),thehighestmountaininGreece. RoundingthepromontoryofOpous,thesteamerentersthebay ofGalaxidi,knowntotheancientsastheGulfofKirrhaorKrissa. TotheN.W.weoatcha glimpseofSalona(p.151), half-hidden amongolivegroves.Totheleft,beyoudabluntpromontory,isGal axidi(p.34),withitsship-buildingyards.ThevillageofMagoula, ontheright,occupiesthesiteofKirrha,oncetheportof Krissa, andafterwards(comp.p.153)adependencyofDelphi.Thesteamer stopsat— Itea (750inhab.),thelanding-placeforSalona,whichlies 71/2M.inland.Disembarkationbysmallboat,includingluggage, 1dr.Thereareseveralpoorcafe'sandeating-housesnearthehar SALONA. 13.Route.151 hour, and goodentertainment,atcorrespondingprices,maybeob tainedfromTh.Koutzoupilasbytravellerswithanintroduction. HorsesandmulesforDelphi(4-5dr.]andcarriagesforSalona (2*/4dr.foreachpers.,includingluggage)aregenerallyinwaiting. —ThedirectroutefromIteatoDelphidoesnotpassSalona. S&lona,officiallycalledAmphissa, isaflourishinglittletown with5200inhab.(fairquartersattheXenodochionofKaravines, bedl4/2~2dr.).ItliesatthefootoftheAcropolisofAmphissa, themostimportantoftheancientLocriancities,knownfromthe warof339-8B.C.,whichPhilipIIofMacedonia,whohadbeen commissionedtopunishtheAmphissians,utilizedtoeffectthe subjugationofGreece(comp.p.153).Althoughtheextensive ruinsonitsAcropolisincludemanyfragmentsofpolygonalma sonry,byfarthegreaterpartthem of datesfromtheperiodofthe ruleoftheFrankishcountsoroftheTurks,forSalonaplayedan importantpartinthe mediaevalhistoryofGreece.—Mulefrom SalonatoDelphi(3!/2hrs.)5-6dr. From Salonato Thermophylje, a rideofabout10hrs.—Wefirst followcarriage-road the forLamiaasfaras(1hr.)thehandsomevillage- ofTopdlia(goodmagazi).Thencepassingkatavothra a (p.188)wegrad uallyascendbya tolerablebridle-trackthatcrossestheroadseveral timesbeforeitfinallyquitsit.OntheslopeoftheKiona,beyondthedeep valleyofAmphissa,appearsSegditza.Fromthe(2Vahrs.)PassofAm- blemdwedescendpastseveralsaw-mills, andtraversethebeautiful valleyoftheKontolas.withitsnumerousplane-trees.InXlUhr.we regaintheroad,andin8/ihr.morereachthebeginningofthefertile valleyoftheupperKephuot.whichisboundedontheS.byParnassos, ontheW.byspursoftheCEta,andontheN.bytheEallidromos.At thispointarethevillageandkhanofQravid,heroicallydefendedin1821 against3000TurksbyOdysseus,attheheadof180Greeks.Amarble monument,withabustofOdysseus,waserectedherein1838tocom memoratetheevent.In thevalleyoftheKephisoslaythefour'Towns'1 of theDorians,whosupersededthe ancientDryopiansattheperiodof theBoricmigration.ThesewereKytinion^3f\M.fromGravia^ Boion, nearMariolates,3M.fromGravia5 Erineos,nearKato-Kastelli,2lUT£.from Gravia;andPindosorAkyphasyEpano-Kastelli. near Remainsofthemall maybetraced,theleastimportantbeingthoseofPindos.Boionwasthe moststronglyfortified.—BeyondGraviawesoonquitthecarriage-road andfollowtheshorterpathsthroughadistrictwithnumerousravines, by-and-bycrossingthenewlinefromThebestoLamia(totheleftalong tunnel).Inl3/*hr.,ata groupofmagaziafortheuseofthelabourers ontherailway,weregaintheroad,whichhereandfartheroncommands anadmirablesurveyofthemountainousregionanditsnumerousupland valleys.LeavingthekhanofProkovenikoatsomedistancetotheleft,we crossthehillsbetweentheKallidromosorSaromatd,ontheE.,andthe (Eta(7050ft.),ontheW.Ini/ahr.morethedeepgorgeoftheAsopasis spannedbyabridge,alittlebeyondwhichthebridle-pathturnstothe left.Thepathnowcrossestheroadtwice,withinsightofthewideplain oftheSpercheios,reaches(2hrs.)thefootofthemountains,and,near theBridgeofAlamatma,joinsO/2br.)theroadthroughthePassofTher mopylae(p.199). From IteatoDelphi,nrs-Wefollowthecarriage-road toSalonaforabout20min.,thenstrikeofftotheright,through theolive-grovesandvineyardsthatcoverthecentreof theplain. ThegorgeofthePhtedriadffi(p.153)canbemadeoutfromthesea 125 Route13. DELPHI. beforee w landatItea,aswellasthegorgebetweenthespurof ParnassosandtheverdantKirphis,throughwhichthePleistos (p.103;oftendry)poursitswaters.In anhourtheroadbegins toascend,and20min.fartheronwereachthelargevillageof Chrysd, nearthesiteofthetownofKrlssa(destroyedin585), whichoriginallyruledoverthewholeplain.Thereareafew remainsonthehillofStephanitotheright. A path,runningtotheN.W.fromChrys6,throughfineolive-woods andsometimesintheemptybedofatorrent,joinsthe(2l/«hrs.)carriage- roadfromSalonatoLamia,aboutVzhr.fromTopdlia(p.151). From Chrys6wemayproceedtoDelphieitherbythemorefa tiguingoldroadorbythelongernewroad.TheOldRoadpasses anancienttower,andseveraltracesofanancientroad,andcrosses arockyridge,withnumerouscleftsandarowoftombsandrecesses. Thehillthe to leftisdestinedasthenewhomeofthepeopleof Kastri(seebelow).Thefortress,theremainsofwhichcrownthe height,isascribedtoPhilomelos,thePhooian,whotookpossession ofthedistrictofDelphiin355andfortifiedhimselfhereagainst theThebans.WenowhaveafineviewoftheKrissaBanplainbehind us,andinfrontofus,ofthevaleofDelphi,wherewereachtheChapel ofHag.Elias(p.156).—TheNewRoadascendsinwindingsfrom Chrys6andinl'/4hr.skirtsthe E. slopeabove-mentioned of the rookyridge.Thisisthespotwherethe emissariesofPerseusat temptedtoassassinateKingEumenesofPergamonin173B.C. Turningthecorneroftheridge,wesuddenlycomeinviewofthe siteofancient— Delphi,at presentalmostentirelyoccupiedbythevillageof Kastri,whichis,however,tobepulleddown.ThePanagia Convent (p.164)alsostandsonpartoftheancientsite.BelowKastrithe roadcurvesabruptlytotheE.Apathdivergingtotheleft,afew minutesfartheron, leadstotheHouseoftheKeeperoftheAntiquities (cpjXoStoWdp)faioTT]Turv; PI.1),wheretolerableaccommodation maybeobtained.ThehouseliesclosetotheHellenikdwall(p.164) andcontainsacollectionofinscriptionsandafewsculptures,in cludingareliefofanudearcher(Apollo?) Delphi (AsXtpoi),calledPythobytheearliestauthorities,wasthehead quartersoftheGreciancultofApollo,anditwasthecentreoftheDelphic Amphictyony,themostancientconfederationofGreekstates. The grandeurofthescenery,theice-cold springs,andthecurrents of airstreamingfromthegorgesofthemountainsfilledmenwithamyster iousawefromtheearliesttimes,andseemedtoinvitethefoundation ofatemple.AccordingtothelegendDelphiwasthehauntofthedragon Pytho, whichthefar-dartingApolloslewfivedaysafterhisbirthin theislandofDelos; andthegodissaidtohavebroughthitherhis firstpriestsfromCrete.ButtheascriptionofthefoundationofDelphi toaCretan colonyismostprobablyanerror.Theoracleinfluencedthe historyofnoblehousesandofwholenationsfromaveryearlyperiod; barbariansaswellasHellenesconsultedit,anditsresponseswereimpli citlytrusted,evenwhentheyinvolvedtheenquirerindestruction,asin thecaseCroasus. of Theoraclewasconsultedonallaffairsofmoment, suchasthemakingoflaws,thebeginningofdecisivewars,orthe despatch ofcolonies.In59G theAthenians,attheinstigationofSolon,joined

DELPHI. 13.Route.153 nSikyoni a holywaragainsttheKrisseeans,whowereinthehabitof plunderingthepilgrimstotheshrine;andtheupshotwasthatKrissa wasdestroyedandthewholeofitsterritoryincorporatedwiththesacred domainin585(p.150).ThePythianGames,whichtookplaceeveryfourth year,werefoundedinhonourofthisvictory;whiletheHieromnemonoi orrepresentativesoftheAmphictyony,mettwiceayear.Atthebegin ningofthePersianwarsthepriestsofDelphishoweda considerable amountofdoubtandtrepidation,anditwasnottillafterthebattleof SalamisthattheyidentifiedthemselveswiththenationalcauseofGreece. Theresoluteandpatrioticoraclebeforebattle theofPlataea,andper hapsalsothemiraculouspreservationoftheshrinefromapartyofPersian pillagers,whowereassertedtohavebeenterrifiedbythedirectinter positionofApollohimself(mostprobablybyoneofthebynomeans uncommonearthquakesatDelphi),raisedthereputationofthesanctuary toaveryhighpitch.TrophiesfromthePersianbootywereerectedhere, andtheAmphictyonsissueddecreesinhonourofthosewhohadremained faithfultotheirfatherland.Gradually,however,areactionsetin.In 448 thePhocianstookpossessionofthesanctuary,andalthoughafterwards expelledbythe Spartans,theyretainedthepoliticalcommandofthedis trictbytheinfluenceofPerikles,untilthepeaceofNikiasin421again declaredtheindependenceofDelphi.Butthe beautifulplainofKrissa againtemptedthePhocians;andtheircultivationofagreatpartofit broughtaboutthePhocianwar(theso-calledsecond'SacredWar')in 357-46,whiletheinterpositionofPhilipII.ofMacedoninthethirdSacred War(339-8B.C.)pavedthewaytothefinallossofGreekindependence (comp.pp.151,161).TheinvasionoftheGaulsin279(comp.p.200)was wardedoffchieflybythebraveryofthej&tolians,whothenceforthdomi natedtheDelphicAmphictyonyuntilthetimeoftheRomans.When SullawasbesiegingAthensin86,hecompelledthesurrenderofthe Delphictreasuresforthepaymentofhistroops.Nerodividedtheplain ofKrissaamongbissoldiers, andissaidtohavecarriedoff500statues fromthetemple.Thisnumberwasbutsmallcomparedwiththetreasures thatremained; forPlinynarratesin that histimetherewerestill3000 statuesatDelphi,andeveninthetimeofPausanias(p.cx)theprecinct resembledavastmuseum.Byzantine TheemperorTheodosius(379-395A.D.) finallyputanendtothetroubledexistenceofthepagancult.—Inmodern timestheFrenchgovernmenthasinstitutedexcavationsunderthedirect ionoftheEcolecTAthenes(p.94);andtheinscriptionsdiscoveredbythis meanshaveforthefirsttimeshedaclearlightontheconstitutionofthe DelphicAmphictyony.Theremovalofthevillageof Kastriin1893will enabletheworktobethoroughlycarriedout. Delphilies2130ft.abovethesea-levelonaslopeadjoiningthe cliffsofParnassos,anddescendingabruptlyfromN.to S.High abovethevalleythe ofPleistosrisethePhaedriadae('shiningrocks*) oftheancients,twolongcliffsapproachingeachotheratanobtuse angleandseparatedonlybyanarrowchasm.In winterorafter heavyraina foamingtorrentisprecipitatedfromthischasminto thedeeplyindentedchannelofthemodernPapadid('BedofKastalia1 inourPlan),throughwhichitfindsitswayintothePleistos(the modernXeropotami)375ft.)flowingpastittowardstheS. The E.cliff,whichrisesabovethemonastery,istheancientHyampeia. ItsmodernnameisPklemboukos; thatoftheW.cliffsRodini. is Thesacredprecinctlaythe intriangleboundedontheN.W.bythe Rodini,ontheW.bythePhilomelosridge(p.152),andontheS. bythenewcarriage-road,andatpresentoccupiedbythevillage ofKastri.TheancienttownstretchedtotheS.oftheroad. Avisittotheruinsrequires5hours.Followingthedescription 154 Route13. DELPHI. of Pausanias(p.153)webeginourpilgrimageontheE. About 20min.fromthehouseofthekeeperoftheantiquities,totheleft oftheroadtoArachova(p.168),weobserveafewsepulchralcham bersandtheso-calledLogdri,a copyofthegateofHades,cut inthecliff.Thelongsubstructuresandsupportingwallstothe rightoftheroadarenowcalledMarmarid.Thesedoubtlessonce supportedthetempleofAthenaPronoiamentionedbyPausanias alongwiththree othertemples,andtheHeroonofPhylakos.On thesameside,totheleft,alittleasidefromtheroad,istheMon- asteritisPanagiaa,belongingtotheJerusalemconventatDaulis (p.168).ItliesontheruinsoftheancientGymnasium,bywhich wemustunderstandabuildingofconsiderableextent,asisclearly indicatedbythe substructureoffirmly-jointedhewnstones. We followthepathrunningfromthemonasterytotheN.W. alongthebaseofthePhlemboukoscliff,andpassingtwogigantic plane-trees,reachtheCaatalianFountain,whichwellsforthin theinnermostrecessofthePhsBdriadse.Alargeplane-tree,saidto havebeenplantedbyAgamemnon,ismentionedashavinggrown inantiquityonthesiteofthepresenttrees.Beforeconsultingthe oraclethepilgrimswashedorsprinkledthemselvesatthespring. 'Tothepureprecinctsof Apollo'sportal, Come,pureinheart,andtouchthelustralwave: OneAlldropelse,sufficethe'enocean'sforthebillowssinlesscannotmortal;lave'. (PythianResponse;trans,by/.E.Sandys.) Thepoeticbeliefintheinspiringpowerofthewater,ofwhich Ovidandothersspeak,datesfromtheRomanperiod.Inrecent timesearthquakeshaverenderedtheneighbourhoodofthefountain quiteunrecognizable. Takingthefirstpathdivergingtotherightabovetheroad,we reachin8min.theE.MainEntranceoftheSacredPrecinct,clearly identifiedbytheancientsteps,andbyarecentlydiscoveredvotive inscriptionoftheArcadians,mentionedbyPausanias.Thespot liesalittleinfrontofthekeeper'shouse,almostattheS.E.angle ofthegreathewn-stonewallwhichencircledtheentireprecinct withabreast-highrampart.Considerableportionsofthiswall, especiallytheS.portion, of theso-called Hellenik6,arestillextant. About0 8 yds.totheN.oftheHellenikoisamassivesupport ing-wall,immediatelyinfrontofwhichremainsoftheStoaoptht Athenians,erectedinB.C.460,werodiscoveredin1884.About 80ft.ofthestylobatereckonedfromtheascertained"V7.end,are uncovered.Thecolumns,twoofwhichhavebeenre-erected,were ofPentelicmarble,whiletheirbaseswereofParianmarble.To theW.aretheremainsofthe'ColumnoftheNaxians',with aninscriptionrecordingtherightoftheNaxianstoconsult theoraclebeforeotherenquirers(rcpojj.avTeta).Fartheronis a fragmentofa curiousmarblesphinx.Neitherofthesemonu mentsarenowontheiroriginalsite.Anarchaicreliefofafour-horse DELPHI. 13.Route.155 chariot (charioteeralmostentirelymissing),withathree-stepped altar,obviouslythevotiveofferingofavictorinchariot-race, a lies herefacedownwardsandcannotatpresenthe examined.The 'sacredway'lednpincurvesfromtheHellenik6,andthenascend edduenorthtotheE.of theStoaoftheAtheniansandalongthe E.sideofthetemple; onbothsidesitwasborderedwithinnumer ablevotiveofferings,statues,etc. The above-mentionedSuppobting-Wall,runningE.andW., consistsoffinely-jointedpolygonalworkinPoros-stone,crowned withthreecoursesofregularmasonry.Theheightvaries,withthe natureoftheground,from6to12ft.; anditslength,includingthe stillunexcavatedportion,isestimatedat560ft. ItsE. partis coveredwithamultituteofinscriptions,somereferring,tothere solutionoftheAmphictyonsoroftheDelphiccommunity,others containinglistsofvictors,andstillmorereferringtotheformal liberationofslaves.Thewallservesasa buttressforthetemple- terrace(nowcoveredwithrubbish)andwasquiteindispensable fortheerectionofthetemple; sothatwearejustifiedinregarding itastheoldest structureinDelphi,perhapscontemporaneouswith thebeginningofthecultofthePythianApollo. TheedgeoftheterracebeforetheS.sideofthetemplesup porteda forestofstatues,whichwerevisiblefromthetownbelow. OftheappearanceoftheTempleofApollo,wecannowonlyform anideafromthereportsoftheancients.ItwasbuiltbytheCor inthianarchitectSpintharosinthesecondhalfofthe6thcent. B.C,tosucceedanearliertempleburnttothegroundin 548. AquarterofthecostwastobedefrayedbytheDelphiansfrom thetemple-treasury,andtherestsuppliedbyvoluntarycontribu tions,inwhichevenKingAmasisofEgyptjoined.Finally,how ever,theconstructionwastakenoverbythewealthyAthenian familyoftheAlkmaeonidse,andcontinuedin amoresplendid mannerthantheoriginalplanhadcontemplated.Oneoftheir alterationswasthesubstitutionParian ofmarbleforordinary Porosstone.ThesculptureswerechieflybytheAthenianPraxias, apupilofKalamis,andbyAndrosthenes,apupilofEukadmos. The. E PedimentcontainedrepresentationsofApollo,Artemis,lie to, thenineMuses,andthesettingHelios; andtheW.Pedimenthadfigures ofDionysos,andtheThyades,whoalsowereworshippedatDelphi. Pausaniassawgoldenarmouronthearchitrave;totheE.theshields dedicatedbytheAtheniansafterMarathon,totheW.andS.thelong shieldshungtherebythe^Stoliansinmemoryofthesuccessfulrepulse of theGaulsin379. IntheVestibuleofthetemplewereengravedthefamoussayingsof theSevenSages:Tvui&ijaoxdv('knowthyself)andMt)6svayav('nothing toomuch1,i.e.'moderationinallthings').Heretoowastheenigmatical *E(Gif,representedanddedicatedinwoodbytheSevenSages,inbrass bytheAthenians,andingoldbytheempressLivia.AstatueofHomer, whorepresentedtotheGreekstheincarnationofwisdom,wasalsoappro priatelyplacedinthisconspicuousposition.—Oftheobjectswhichwere containedwithinthetemplethefamousOmphalosmaybementioned, a stoneintheshapeofhalfanegg,whichwassaidtomarkthe centreof 156 Route13. DELPHI. the world,becauseherethetwoeaglesmet,whichZeushadcausedtofly fromtheoppositeendsoftheearth.IntheAdyton.anapartmentbyitself, wastheChasmoftheOracle,acleftintheearthfromwhicha narcotic vapourissued.Itssituationcannolongerbeidentified,probablyincon sequenceofearthquakes.Abovethechasmwasplacedthegoldentripod, onwhichsatthepropheticvirgin(afterwardsmatron)whosewordsnone buttheinitiatedcouldunderstand.Theresponseswerecommunicatedto inquirersbythepriestsinhexameterverses.Thewell-knownambiguity oftheoraclenotonlyhadtheappearanceofsuperhumanwisdom,but alsosecuredthereputationofthepriestsinanydoubtfulcase.Butthat itsinfluencewasonthewholeforgoodisindicatedbytherespectwith whichthepoets^Sschylus,Pindar,andSophocles,andeventhephiloso pherPlato,speakoftheoracleofDelphi.Inthemostancienttimesthe oraclecouldbeconsultedonlyintheDelphicmonthBysios(theAttic Anthesterion,correspondingtoFeb.andMarch),thensubsequentlyat anytime,withtheexceptionofafewinauspiciousdays,butAnallyagain onlyatfixedandlimitedtimes. ConsiderableremainsoftheS.substructureofthetempleand alsoofthesubterraneanchamberstotheW.ofthecellaaretobe foundinandamongthehousesoftheTillage.Numerousfragments ofcolumns,someofmarble,someofPoros-stone,arealsoextant. Anotherbuilding-materialistheexcellentgreylimestonefromthe neighbourhoodofthemodernconventofHag.Elias,betweenChrys6 andAmphissa.ThiswasthematerialmainlyusedatDelphifrom theendofthe6thcentury. To theN.W.ofthetemplelaytheTheatre,inwhichCyriacus of Ancona(p.cx)counted33rowsofseatsstillexistinginthe15th century.AfewfragmentsoftheS.wall,coveredwithinscriptions, aretobeseentotheleft,nearthespringofSt.Nicholas,which Prof.UlrichsidentifieswiththeancientspringofKassotis.-i-The E. wallofthetheatrewasadjoinedbytheLescheoftheKnidians, famousforitspaintingsbyPolygnotos(p.lxxx). TurningtotheW.fromtheKerna,whichissuesfromaprojec tionoftheRodinicliff,wereachtheStadion,nowcallediMkkoma. ThisoccupiesthehighestpointinDelphi,andissituatedinna a turaldepression,theS.sidewhich of appearstohavebeenartifici allyheightened. AttheW.entrancetotheprecinctsofthetownofDelphi,on theoldroadtoChrys(5(p.152),liestheChapelofHag.Elias.The stronglybuttressedsubstructureofthechapelprobablyindicates thesiteoftheSynedrionbuiltthe in1stcent.A.D.,whilethe siteoftheoriginalbuildingisperhapstobelookedforabout100 pacestotheS.W.,inthesaddleoftheridge,wherethethreshing- floorsfotXiuvia)oftheKastriotesnoware.IntheSynedrionthe meetingsoftheAmphictyonstookplaceinspringandautumn.The meetingaswellastheplaceborethenameofPylaea,whichwas afterwardstransferredtotheflourishingsuburbthatspranguphere undertheRomans.—Intheneighbourhoodisacarefullyconstruct edancientTomb,withtwovaultedspacesforsarcophagiandother recesses.Adjacentisa circularexedra,hewnintherock. The springofZaleska,theancientSybaris,through flowsawideopen PARNASSOS.13.Route.157 ingintothelowerpartofthegorgeofthePapadia(p.153).In the fcorge,Justopposite,istheKrypsanatordenoftheLamia,amonster livinguponhumansacrificesandresemblingtheThebanSphinx. Parnassos. TheascentofthefamousParnassosmaybeaccomplishedfromDelphi in7*/2hrs.orfrom Arachova(p.159)in53/4hrs.,andwellrepaysthe exertion.Astheviewisbestearlyinthemorning,itisadvisableto devotetwodaystotheascent,thenightbeingspentattheruinedhuts about2hrs.belowthetop. Warm coveringsforthenightmustbetaken,aswellasanabundant supplyofprovisions,andevenwaterforthelatterpartoftheascent,as therearenospringsontheupperpartthe ofmountainj theguideshave alsotoheprovidedfor.ThosewhostartfromDelphiandcombinethe ascentwithavisittotheKorykianGrottomustalsotaketorchesorcandles. Inotherrespectstheascentiscomparativelyeasy,anditispossibleto ridealmosttothesummit(horsefromDelphi,obtainedthroughthekeeper oftheantiquities,about15dr.$ fromArachova10dr.).Theexpeditionis bestmadeinJuly;beforeJunethereistoomuchsnowonthegroundand afterJulythedaysfavourablefortheviewbecomefewer.It isimportant toascertainbeforehandthattheguideisreallyacquaintedwiththeway andiapreparedtocrosssnowifnecessary. FromDelphiasteepwindingpathfXcrfceSkala)ybeginningnear th«stadion,ascendsin1 hr.toaridge(2970ft.)wherethewalking iseasier.Fartheronwetraverseaflatsummitanddescendslightly totheLiv&di,asmalluplandplainbelongingtoArachova.Above thisplateauliesthestalactitecaveofSarant&vliorSar&vli(AftQOft.; 3hrs.fromDelphi),theKorykianGrottoofthe ancients,de scribedbyPausanias,inandaroundwhichwildBacchicfestivals werecelebrated.Totherightoftheusualentranceisarough cubeof rockwithinscriptionsinhonourofPanandtheNymphs. Fromthecaveweproceed,passingaspringofgoodwater,to(lhr.) theKalyviaArachovitika(seebelow). Apleasantroute,divergingtotheleftfromthepathtotheKorykian GrottoaboveKastri,leadsvia(3hrs.fromDelphi)KalyviaKastrikaand pastseveralsprings, to (3hrs.more)theprettilysituatedEpanoAg6r- yani.ThencewedescendrapidlycrossingthefoamingAgoranitzayto (l'/shr.)KatoAgoryani,nearwhichliestheruinedtownofLilaea.The wallsandtowersofthecitadelareingoodpreservation,buttheremains oftherestofthetownareunimportant.—ThencetoGravid(p.151), hps.; toKatoSouvdla(p.158),1hr. FromArachoya(p.159),whichispreferableasastarting-point, weascendin1hr.totheplateauofLivadi.Wethenpassthevillage ofKalyviaArachovflikaywhichliesintheN.E.partof theplain andisinhabitedinsummerbytheArachovians.Wenextascend twosteeppine-cladslopes,keepingsteadilytowardstheN.W.; whenthewoodceases(2hrs.),theW.summitofParnassosap pearsclosetous ontheright.In20min.morethepathturns sharp totheE.,andinanotheri/ghr.wereachtworuinedchaletswhere thenightmaybespent.Theupperpartofthemountainiscovered withblocksofstone,acrosswhichwemakeourway(nopath),to the(1hr.)depressionbeneaththehighestsummit,theLykeri (markedwithawoodencross).Thencetothetop,1hr.more. 158 Route13. DADI. Thehighestsummitof*Parnassos(8070ft.)risesattheS. endofaridgestretchingfromN.toS.,whilethefourotherpeaks, detachedfromthemainpeakbutconnectedwith eachother,are arrangedinawidesemi-circlefromE.toW.Itcommandsawideand magnificentview.Asitisgenerallyclearestjustbeforesunrise, thetravellershouldstartintimetoheonthesummitatdaybreak. o**View.T theE.,acrossthenarrowstraitwhichseparatesEuboea fromthemainlandandovertheserratedpeaksofthatisland,mayhe distinctlyseen(inclearweather),outlines theoftheN.Sporades,rising fromthewideexpanseofsea,whichstretchesbeyondthemuntilit ismet onthehorizonbythemountain-linesofthemoredistantislandsofthe Archipelago.—TotheN.E.thesteeppromontoryofAthos,the'sacred mountain'oftheGreeks,isvisible.—TotheN.risesthedarkmassof Olympos,besidewhicheventheThessalianOssaandPelionlookdwarfed;the GulfofYoloisfullinview,andtheBayofLamiaappearstolieatthe feetofthespectator.Asthesunrisesthemoredistantprospectbecomes veiledinmist,butthelakesandriversintheplainsofPhocisandBceotia, whichbeforewerebarelyvisible,sparkleandglitterinthesun-light.— TotheS.E.appearsthebroad-backedHelicon,and beyondittheheights ontheAtticPeninsula,thelineofwhichappearstobecontinuedbythe rowofislandsatitsS.extremity.—Nowhereistheimportanceofthe IsthmusofCorinthsodistinctlyvisibleashere,whereanextensivesurvey isobtainedofthetwopartsofthecountrywhichitjoins.—Theview ofthePeloponnesusisboundedthemountains by ontheN.marginofAr cadia.—Quitedifferentfromthiswidepanoramicviewistheviewto theW.,embracingtheloftyrangeofKorax,separatedfromParnassos onlybytheValleyofAmphissa;itssummits,KionaandVardo&si,arethe highestinmodernGreeceandtowerseveralhundredfeetabovePar nassositself. Insteadf o returningtoDelphiorArachovawemaydescendthe abruptE.slopeofParnassos(onlytobeattemptedonfootand withatrustworthyguide),to(4-5hrs.)theromanticallyandloftily situatedConventofJerusalem,themonksofwhichentertainthe travellerwithplainbutkindlyhospitality.Inaboutanotherhour wereachDavlia(p.160).—FatiguingpathsleadhencetotheW., followingthecourseone ofofthefeedersoftheKephisos,reaching theuppervalley ofriver thatin5^2hours.Fromthispointwe mayreachKatoAgdryani(p.167),totheleft,in3/4hr.,orKato Souvdla(p.157),totheright,inJ/4tour.Apleasantpathleads fromthelattervillage,witharetrospectofGravia(p.161),to (l'^hr^Dadi,thechiefplaceintheuppervalleyof theKephisos, ontheroadfromLivadia'toLamia.Closebyaretheruinsofthe ancientAmphfkaeaorAmphikleia,fromwhichagoodmanybuilding stonesandinscribedblockshavebeentransportedtoDadi.—From DaditoVelitza(p.197)2hrs.; toBoudonitza(p.198)23/4-3hrs. 14.FromDelphitoLivadia. Onhorseback8hrs.(mule10hrs.);thekeeperoftheantiquitiespro videsanimals.ToArachova(carriage-road)l3/4hr.,IIagiosVlasis4hrs., Knpraena35min.,Livadial3/«hr.—FromKapreenacarriage-roadvia BramtujastoSkripoti(Orchomenos,p.193),inabout31/2hrs. The roadtoArachovapassestheLogari(p.154)andimmediat elyafterwardsturnsthecornerof acliffbehindwhichDelphi ARACHOVA.14.Route.159 disappears.Totherightaretheremainsofasepulchralmonument intheshapeofatower.Theslopeisdottedwithsubterranean tombsandfragmentsofsarcophagi.Fartherlie onanumberof mills,forallofwhichthePleistos(p.153)suppliesthemotive power.Thevalleyisclothedwitholive-trees,andontheslopes arevineyards,whichyieldexcellentwine.Theroadgradually ascends,skirtsthefootofthePetritis(perhapstheancientKatop- teuterios),andreaches(13/4hr.fromDelphi)thelargeandtown likevillageofArachova(3220ft.),wheretolerablefoodandlodg ingmaybe foundinthehouseofthewidowofKonstantinosChri- stdpoulos.Theinhabitants,about3150innumber,areasturdy country-people,notedfortheirloveindependence of andforthe strengthoftheirfamilyties.Themenaretallandslenderandthe womenarepretty; theirspeechisacomparativelypureGreekdia lect.Thecarpetswovenherearewellknown.Arachovawasoften mentionedIntheWarofIndependence;anditwasherethat in 1826Karaiskakisannihilated500Turks underMustamBey,and formedapyramidoftheirheads.TheancientAnemoreiaisusually believedtohavebeennearArachova,althoughtherearenoruins toindicateitsexactsite. About1/ihr.fartherwehaveaprettyretrospectofArachova justbeforeitdisappearsfromview.TherouteskirtstheS.slope ofParnassos,passingtwomillsandtraversingvineyardsandsev eralgorges,beforeitreachesthe topofthepass(2500ft.)andthe khanofSt.Athanasios.In20min.morewereachthekhanofZe- mend(2185ft.)besideaspringunderaplane-tree.Wethendes cendthroughabareandrockyvalleytotheStavrodrdmitouMega, sonamedafterthebraveJohannesMegas,whomethisdeathhere in1856inexterminatingabandofbrigandswithasmalltroopof soldiers.Hismonument,ona projectingrock,bearsafewverses inmodernGreek.About20min.farther(2hrs.fromArachova) isthepoint(1390ft.)wheretheroadsfromDaulisandChaeronea, fromDistomo(seebelow),andfromDelphicrosseachother.This spotwasknowninantiquityasTriodosorSchiste(i.e.^Daulis, theenceinteofwhich, thoughinterruptedatplaces,maystillbecom pletelytraced.Theinterestinggatewayliesattheendofapicturesque rockypath,ontheW.sideofthebill,whereitisconnectedwithaspur ofParnassos.Itwasformerlyflankedbytwotowers; thepresentone totheright,however,datesonlyfromthemiddleages.—WithDautis isconnectedthestoryofTereus,husbandof theAtticprincessPhilo mela,who,havingoutragedhissister-in-lawProkne,cutouthertongue inorderthatthecrimemightremainsecret.Prokne,however,found meansofdivulgingit-,andsheandhersisterrevengedthemselvesupon TereusbyslayingItys,thesonofTereusandPhilomela,andgivinghis fleshtohisfathertoeat.Tereuspursuedthemurderessesbutbeforehe seizedthemallthreeweretransformedintobirds.Philomelabecamea nightingale,terstereus"1;whichandTereus,constantlyasabewailshoopoe,'Itys'follows\ Prokne,thelirstascryingaswallow,lpou,twitpou1 (where?whereV).InhistoricaltimesDaulissharedthefortunesPa- of nopeus(seebelow). The routefromDavliatoVelilsa(p.197)viaNeochori2 takes hrs.— FortheJerusalemConventonParnassos,seep.158. ThePathfromtheSchtstetoHagiosVlasisdescendsthevalley ofthePlatanid,atributaryoftheKephisos,andpassestheruined villageofBardana,nearsomemuralremainsinwhicharchieolo- gistsrecognizethePhokikon,orassembly-houseofthePhocians. TwohoursmorebringustothevillageofHagiosVlasis(4hrs. fromArachova),beneaththeN.slopeoftheAcropolisofPanopeua. PanopeusorPhanotem,whichissaidhave to deriveditsnamefrom itscommandingsituation,was,accordingtothelegend,theabodeofthe Phlegyas,whosewildleaderPhorbaswasdefeatedatfisticuffsbyApollo. Tityos,shotbyApolloandArtemisforhavingrudelyattackedLeto,was alsooneofthePhlegyee.InHomerPanopeusisthehomeofEpeios,who madethewoodenhorse,andtheseatSchedios, of thePhocianking.The positionthetown, of whichwasstronglyfortified,gaveitconsiderableim portance;andwithinhistoricaltimesitwasrepeatedlydestroyed,notably inthePersianwarof480B.C.,thePhocianwarof346 B.C.andbythe Romansin198and86B.C. The fortificationsontheAcropolisprobablydateforthemost partfromthe periodshortlyafterthePhocianwar; atallevents inconstructiontheyresembleothererectionsof thattime.The S.wallandpartoftheN. wallareinthebestpreservation.The mainentrance(10ft.wide)isontheN.side,neartheN.W. angle.TheAcropolisisconnectedbyaslightdepressionwitha smallrangeofhills,whichreachesaheightofover1650ft.inthe DontiaCliffs. to hivadia. CII^RONEA.14.Route.161 The broadbutgenerallydrybedoftheMoriosiscrossedabout YaM.beyondHagiosVlasis; andIn25min.morewereachKa- praena,ontheroadfromLamiatoLivadia.Thevillageliesat theE.footoftheAcropolisofChseronea.Thetownofthatname wasofnoparticularimportance,andowesitsinterestentirelyto itshavingoverlookedthebattleof the7thMetageitnion(1stAug.?), B.C. 338,inwhichtheMacedonianpowerovercametheindepend enceofGreece. Afewremainsofthetown,intheshapeofdetachedfragments ofwallsandfoundations,arescatteredinandaboutKaprsena. ThePanayfaChapelcontainstheso-called'Chair of Plutarch' thehistorian,whowasbornhereabout40 A.D.OntheAcropolis aretheremainsofaTheatre,entirelyhewnintherockandwithout theusualwallsofmasonryatthesides.Thestagehascompletely disappeared.Theauditorium,oneofthesmallestinGreece,is dividedintotwolarger sectionsaboveandonesmallerbelow;of thelatteronlytworowsofseatsarenowvisible.Quiteatthe top isahalf-effacedinscriptionrelatingtoApolloandArtemis. TheAcropolis,or,asitwasherecalledPStrachos,isformedof twolowhillsandmaybe mostconvenientlyascendedbythegorge totheS.ofthevillage.Thefortificationsformanirregularpen tagon,ofwhichthesideimmediatelyabovethegorgeisnow completelydestroyed.Oftherestoftheenclosingwallandits towersthereconsiderable are remains,builtthroughoutinregular courses,withafewlargerblocksofstoneatintervals. Althoughotrustworthy n andcomprehensiveaccountoftheBattleof Ch.«ronea,foughtinB.C.338,hascomedowntous,thereisnolackof allusionstoitandshortnoticesofitindifferentwriters.Theunited troopsoftheGrecianstatesassembledintheplainofChseronea,inorderto opposetheprogressofPhilipII.(p.153),whoalreadyhya successful movehadmadehiswaythroughthePassofParapotamioi(p.107)and wasadvancingtowardsBoeotia.BehindtheGreekline,whichextended acrossplain, the Mount roseThourion(p.162).Therightwing,formed hytheThebans,whoseSacredBandmethereitslastdayofglcry,rested ontheriverKephisos;inthecentrewerepostedthePhocian.%Achce- ans,andCorinthians,andalsotheArcadians,who,however,desertedto Philipinthemidstofthebattle; ontheleftwing,atthefootoftheAcro polis,stoodtheAthenians,inwhoseranksDemosthenes,Philip'sbitterest foe,tookanactiveshareinthetight. Philip'sorcesconsisted f of30,000infantryand2000 cavalry,andthe strengthoftheGreektroopswasprobablyaboutthesame.ButtheMace donianarmyhadanimmenseadvantageovertheconfederateGreeksin beingcommandedbyasingleexperiencedgeneral;forthelatter,unit ed onlyinaim,foughtindependentlyofeachother,andstrovemoreto thwartthetacticsoftheenemy,thantocarrythroughanyplanoftheir own.Theagenes, a discipleofKpaminondas,commandedtheThebans, whiletheAthenianswereledbytheexperiencedStratoklesandhis lieutenantsCharesandLysikles. The Atheniansbeganthefightandpressingimpetuouslydrove forward KingPhilip,whoperhapspurposelygaveway,intotheplain.Meanwhile theThebanshadalsojoinedbattle,andtheirSacredBandfora longtime vindicateditsancientgloryandsteadilyrepulsedthefieryAlexander, who,alongwiththeprudentAntipater,commandedtheleftwingofthe enemy.Gradually,however,themissilesoftheMacedoniansthinnedthe Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 11 162 Route14. LIVADIA. FromDelphi Theban ranksuntiltheentirebandwasannihilated,andAlexander,falling ontheHankoftheGreekcentre,nowgavethefirstproofofhismilitary talent.Thecentre, isolatedbythedestructionoftheThebansandthe advanceoftheAthenians,offerednolongresistance; andPhilip,bringing uphiscavalry,checkedandthenrepelledtheadvancingAthenians,who wereunableeithertorejointherestoftheGrecianarmyorto regain theiroriginalposition.Thebattlewasnowdecided; 1000Athenians were slainand2000weretakenprisoners.Thedeadbodieslayfora longtime onthebattle-fieldbefore Philipgavethemup. Evenn i Plutarch'stimetheoakwaspointedoutneartheKephisos, underwhichthetentoftheyoungAlexanderwaspitched, andnearitthe graveofthefallenMacedonians.TheAthenians, whosefuneral-oration waspronouncedbyDemosthenes,wereinterredintheKerameikosnear Athens;theThebansandthe otherGreekswereburiedonthebattle field.AbovethegraveoftheThebansalionwaserected,someremains ofwhichstillexist(seebelow).—Intheyear86 B.C.asecondgreat battletookplaceatChseronea,inwhichSulladefeatedArchelaos, the generalofKingHithridatesofPontus. TheroadtoLivadialeadspastthescatteredremnantsofthe above-mentionedLionChaeronea, of 1/4M.beyondKapraena.In thecourseofcenturiesthismonumenthadsunkentirelyintothe earth,butitwasreservedtoaguerilla-chiefinthelastWarofIn dependencetobreakitinpieces.Theheadisstillfine.Theexcava tionsoftheArchaeologicalSociety,carriedonsince1879,havere vealedthat thelionstoodontheedgeofaquadrangularenclosure, withinwhichweredepositedbones theoftheslain. TheancientboundarybetweentheplainofChaeroneaand Lebadeia(Livadia)wasformeda low bychainofhills,theflat outlineofwhichwasbrokenbyafewrockyknolls(thehighest calledOrthdpagos).ThisTange,formerlycalledThourion,andnow LivaditikaKerala,wassacredtoApollo,whohada templehere. Thetopcommandsa fineviewtowardsLivadia.In18/4hr.from Kapraena,wereachtheroadfromThebestoLivadia,havingpre viouslyjoinedtheroadfromOrchomenos.Livadiaits withcon spicuousacropolisliesafewminutesfartheron. Livadia.—XenodochionPdrnassos,smallbuttolerablyclean,bed IV2dr.—■ Fairmealsmaybeobtainedinoneofthetwobettereating-houses inthemainstreet. Livadia (540ft.),officiallycalledandwrittenAefiaoeta,owed itsimportanceinantiquityentirelytotherenownedOracleof Tro- phonios.Inthemiddleagesthetownattainedconsiderablepros perity, andundertheTurksitwastheseatgovernment of for CentralGreece(provinceofLivadia).Itnowcontains5000inhab. andhasbroadstreets,severalchurches(oneofthemoriginallya mosque),andafrequentedbazaar,andisthecentreoftheconsider ablewool-industryoftheplainsoftheKephisosandKopais.The houses,interspersedwithgroupsofverdanttrees,arebuiltalong bothsidesofthemountain-streamHerkyna(themodernPotamites Livadids)andstretchdownintotheplain.Severalbridgesspanthe stream,whichdrivesvariousspinning-factoriesandfulling-mills. ThesmallMuseum,ontherightbank,includinga collectionof inscriptionsformerlyatKapraena,isuninteresting. to Livadia. LIVADIA. 14.Route.163 The situationofLivadiaischarming.InthedistanceisPar- nassos,anda littlenearerHelicon, whilethesteepLapkystion (p.166)risesclosebyfromthesteep,tunnel-like*Gorgeofthe Herkyna.Highuponthelast-namedheightisperchedthecon spicuousmediaevalCitadel,believedtohavebeenbuiltbytheCata- lonianswhosettledthemselvesinBceotia, aftertheirvictoryover theDukeofAthens(p.193)jitisstillintolerablerepair. The Oracleof TrophoniosismentionedasearlyastheSecondMessenian War(firsthalfofthe 7thcent.B.C.),andthoughitreachedthe zenithof itsfameaftertheThebanvictoryatLeuktra,itenjoyedahighreputation eveninthetimeofPlutarchandPausanias(p.cx).Thelatterhimselfcon sultedtheoracle; andaccordingtohisaccountthe sacredceremonytook placeattwodifferentspotsandrequireda periodofsomedays.The enquirerhadfirstofalltoundergoacarefulcourseofpreparation.He dweltmeanwhileinanapartmentdedicatedtothe'AgathosDaemon1and to'Tyche1,heatethefleshofsacrificialanimals,andbathedinthe Herkyna.Aftersolemn a sacrificehewasconductedbynightthrough thesacred enclosuretothespringsofLetheandMnemosyne, inorderto drinkforgetfulnessofthepastandmemoryfortherevelationsofthe oracle.Finallythepriestsconductedhimtotheactualseatoftheoracle, avaultedcaveonthehill,where,unlikemostotheroracles,theenquirer wasputintodirectcommunicationwiththedivinity.Placedinarecum bentpositionhewasthrustdrawn or througha narrowopening,and variousmeanswereusedtoinspirehimwithawe.Hewasthenplaced uponthe'ThroneofMnemosyne1,andthepriestsenquiredintoandinter pretedwhathehadheardandseen. SomeauthoritiesrecognisetheMnemosyneandLetheintwosprings in the gorgeoftheHerkyna,theformerbeingidentifiedwiththeKryo (i.e.'cold1),whichhasbeenconductedintowell-house, a whiletheLethe, connectedonlywiththeunderworld,maybeidentifiedwiththesub terraneanwaterinashaftnearthewell-house.Afewvotive-nichesmay beobservedinthefaceoftherock.Numerousotherspringsriseoppo sitethesetwo,andtothesethelittleriverowesmostofitswater.The oracularcavernbeen hasidentifiedbysometravellerswitha reservoir (orperhapsamediaevalcrypt?)withinthecastle;moreprobablyitlay neartheChapelofSt.Elias,ontheloftierofthesummits,wherethe massiveblocksoftheuntinishedTempleofZeusBasileus(perhapsthe nameofTrophonios,asthetown-deity)liescatteredabout.Alongin scription referringtothebuildingofthistempleispreservedwithother antiquities,inthelowerroomsofthepublicschool. The journeyfromLivadiatoOrchomenos,seeR.19.

15. FromLivadiatoThebes. Thedirectbutsomewhatmonotonousrouteisthecarriage-roadalong LakeKopai's,adistanceofabout25M.,oroneday'sjourney.Amore picturesquebutconsiderablylongerwayofmakingtheexcursion(2-3days) is tofollowthemountain-roadviaHeliconandthesiteofThespiae, withdetourstoLeuktraandPlataea.—Thosewhowishto visittheruins ofHaliartosinsteadofHeliconmayproceedfromthekhanofSach (p.164)toThespieein2'/2hrs.,leavingthevillagesofMaziandMavro- matitotheleft. a. DirectEoute. The directroutetakesahorseormule7hrs.; fromLivadiatothe ruinsofHaliartos4 hrs.;thencetoThebes3hrs.—Acoachpliesdaily betweenLivadiaand Thebes(5^2hrs.jl1^dr.),butdoesnotallowmuch timeatHaliartos. The carriage-roadrunsneartheN.baseoftheLaphystion 11* 164 Route15. KORONEIA.FromLivadia (p.166),andthebridle-pathfollowsitslowerslopes.Warm springsremindusofthevolcanicnatureofthehill.Livadiasoon vanishesfromsight.TotheN.wecatchsightofthecastleof OrchomenosandofthelongAkontion(p.193),abovewhichrises thegable-shapedChlomos(p.192).Wenowapproachthebank ofthegreenLakeKopah(p.187).ThemountainsofPtoon(p.185) andSphingion(p.165)appearabovetheE.bankofthelake.In about2hrs.afterleavingLivadiawereachthekhanofKalamior Kalamaki. About. 2M totheS.E.lietheruinsoftheancientKoroneia(Coronea), intheterritoryofwhichwassituatedthesanctuaryofthe ItonianAthena, thehighly-reverencedof theBoeotian goddessConfederation.Itwasonly afterthefallofThebesthatthetownofKoroneiaachievedanyimportance. ItsnameisknowninconnectionwiththevictoryoftheThebansover theAtheniansunderTolmidesinB.C. 447,andwiththevictoryofthe SpartansunderAgesilaosovertheconfederatedThebans,Athenians,and ArgivesinB.C.394.Theruinshavelittleintrinsicinterest.TheAcro polisisonly200paceslongby150broad.Onits S.vergearetheremains ofaRomanedificeofbrick,supposedtobeabathbytheinhabitantsof theneighbourhood, whoonthataccountnametheplaceLoutrd.Be tweenthecitadelandthe ruinsofamedisevaltowerisahollowdepression atout150paceswidewhichwasprobablythesiteofthetheatre.—From Koroneiawecanreach Petra(seebelow)inI1/4hr., passingSoulinari,near thesiteofthe ancientAlalkomenae. Beyond KalamiwecrosstherivernamedPhalarosbythean cientsandreach[1 hr.)thehillofPetra,risingabruptlynear theroad.BelowitssteepN.sideistheonoefamousspringof Tilphossa, thewaterofwhichlosesitselfontheothersideofthe trackinamarshadjoiningLakeKopa'is.Thenarrowpassbetween thehillandthemorasswasbravelydefendedin1829Demetrios by Ypsilautis, GeorgiosVajas, andtheircomradesagainstaTurkish armyadvancingfromtheS.E.Thisactionwasthelastsceneofthe WarofIndependenceinE.Greece.Ontheheightwhereweshould expecttofindthesiteofthetempleoftheTilphossianApolloare somemuralremainsandantiquefragments. FromPetratoSkripou(p.193),viaDeglesandHag.Dimitrios,2l/ihrs. FromthispointtoHaliartosisarideof1 hr.Totheright liesVrastamitis.Numerousbrooksdescendherefromthehills, includingtheLophis, Okalios, andHoplitesoftheancients.On theroundhilltotheleftwhichthrustsitselflikeapromontoryinto theflatsofKopa'isaretheruinsoftheancientHaliartos.About V2nr-heforereachingit,however, wenoticeontheleftseveral earthenmounds, oneofwhichrepresentstheGraveofAlkmene, themotherofHercules(p.252).Oppositetheruinsliesthekhan ofSack(routetoThespiae,seep.163). Haliartos, nowcalledMitileneorthePalaeokastroofMazi,from Mazi,1M.distant,thenearestplaceofanysize,wasthechief townthe onS.bankofLakeKopa'is,andspeciallyimportanton accountofitsposition,whichcommandedoneofthemainthorough faresbetweenN.andS.Hellas. The best-knowneventconnectedwithHaliartoswasthedefeat of theSpartansbytheThebansinB.C.395.Thetwoarmiesoftheformer, to Thebes. HALIARTOS.15.Route.165 under LysanderandPausanias, hadplannedtouniteatHaliartos, and thencefallupontheThebans.Thedesignwasbetrayedtothelatter,who hurriedwithalltheirforcestoHaliartos,repulsedtheprematureattack ofLysander,andcompletelyroutedhim.Lysanderhimselffellonthe flankofthe Hoplites(p.165)andPausaniaswasforcedtoretire.InB.C. 171HaliartoswhichhadjoinedKoroneiainespousingthecauseofthe MacedoniankingPerseus, wasdestroyedbyC.Lucretius, theRoman prcetor. The wallsofthetownadjointheroad,fromwhichthehill risesgraduallytothelowS.vergeoftheAcropolis.Thelatter, whichisprecipitousontheotherthreesides, hastheformofan irregularquadrangle,withjaggedandindentedsides;severalparts ofthebrowofthehillshownosignsofhavingbeenfortified.The LowerTownwasbuiltchieflyontheundulatingsitetotheS. of theAcropolis.Fewconnectedfragmentsofthetown-wallsremain, withtheexceptionofa considerablestretch,builtcarefully of squaredblocks,onthebrowofthehillneartheS.E.towerofthe citadel.Someofthelinesoftheinteriorwallsmaybetraced,and onahilloutsidethetowntotheS.W.oftheAcropolisarethe foundationsof asquarebuilding,which,tojudgefromitspo sitionnearthepass,wasprobablyanoutlyingbastion. To theE.ofHaliartosextendsafertileplain,occupiedforthe mostpartbytheinhabitantsoftheabove-mentionedMaziandof Megalo-Moulki,thelatterfamousforitssmallbutexcellentmelons. At(10mln.)theKhanofKerbd,the streamletofMazienters the plain; and^4hr.fartheronwepassamediaevaltower,situatedon aruggedcrag,intheN.E.sideofwhichisaspaciouscavern.Near thispointisaspring. 5In2 min.moretheroadentersthepass(Stend)betweena spurofHeliconontheS.andthePhagdsorSphingionOrosonthe N.Totheleftisanancientwell.Thegentlyslopinghillthe to rightwasthesiteoftheancienttownofOnchestos,theremains ofwhichareveryscanty."Withthispassisconnectedthelegendof theoutbreakofthemythicalwarbetweenThebesOrchomenos. and Beyond thepassweenterthemonotonousTenerianField, boundedontheN.bythePhagas,ontheS.bytheheightsof Mavromati,Kasnesi,Vdgia,andMorollampos.Alittlefartheron wecrosstheThespios(themodemKanavari),flowingthroughthe plainofThebes,passthethreshing-floorsofthesuburbofPyrfand thespringofVrdnesiandreach(2i/2hrs.fromtheStena)Thebes (p. To176).theS.ofthe oldroadtoThespise,aboutilUhr.onthisside of Thebes,lieaanoldSanctuaryoftheCabiri(seep.176),discoveredbythe GermanArchieologicalInstitute(p.94)in1887-8.Thenumerousobjects foundherearenowinAthens.Theyconsistchieflyofsmallbronzes(bulls, etc.)andterracottas.ThedeityofthetempleappearsastheCabir(in thesingular),whilehisson,representedonvasesaskind a ofcup-bearer, occupiesasubordinateposition. 166 Route15. KOUTOUMOULA.FromTAvadia b. MountainPathviaKoutoumoula,theValleyoftheMuses onHelicon,Thespite,Leuktra,andPlataea. Three Days.1stDay.FromLivadiatoKoutoumoula^33/Locris,thehillsofEuboea; andtotheW.Parnassos. We nowreturntotheplainatthefootofHelicon(seeabove)and descendthencein20min.toHagiosNikolaos,aruinedanddeserted farm('metochi')belongingtotheconventofMakario'tissanearDom- braena(p.166).Thebuildingissurroundedbyplane,olive,and fig-trees,itsgardenwateredbyacopiousspring,whichalsoclaims tobetheancientAganippe.Theonlyremainsofantiquity,how ever,whicharefoundhere,arethe fourroundedcolumnssupport to Thebes. thespi^:. 75.Route.169 ing thearchitraveofthechapel,andaninscriptionenumerating thevictorsinthefestivalsoftheMuses(MooaeTa).Thence beyond somehillscoveredwithmyrtle,lentisks,andothershrubswere gainthedirectroadfromAskra(p.167)andfollowitto(50inin.) Paldeo-Panagid. TheroadfromPalseo-PanagiatoErem6kastro(3/4hr.)passes theruinedchapelofHagiosGeorgios,erectedon anancientfounda tionoppositethehamletofNeochtfriorNich6ri. At Eremdkastroaccommodationandfoodmaybeobtainedfrom MeletisMelissaris,keeperofthe'Museion'.Thelatterchieflycon tainsinscriptionsfromtheneighbourhoodandhasalsoafewgood steles,butthebestspecimenshavebeentakentoAthens.Afew tracesoffortificationsmaybemadeoutontheS.edgeofthehill onwhichthevillagestands,whichstretchesuptothe(^M.)Kas- kaveli.Ulrichsregardstheseastheremainsoftheancienttownof Keressos(comp.p.167),thefrequentrefugeof theThespianswhen theircityfellintohostilehands. From thevillage, alowcontainingwall, hardlyrisingabove thesurfacethe ofearth,maybedecernedintheplainbeneath. ThismarksthesiteofthefamousThespise. TheefforttothrowofftheyokeofThebesto andattainasgreata degreeofindependenceaspossibleisthepervadingprincipleinthe historyofbothThespiseandPlatsea.Theformercitywasanallyof ThebesbeforethePersianwars;butinthesegreatstrugglesThespise espousedthenationalcause,inoppositiontoThebes,whichfavouredthe Persians.OfalltheBoeotiantownsThespiseandPlatteaalonedaredto refusemopylaeearthThespiseandwaterwasrepresentedtothePersianbyaambassador. contingentofAt700themenbattleunderTher-Be- of mophiloS)whoremainedtruetoLeonidastilldeath.Xerxes, advancing afterthebattletowardsAttica,burntThespise,theinhabitantsofwhichhad retiredtothePeloponnesus.AgainattheBattleofSalamisthePlateeans andThespiansweretheonlyBoeotianswhosepatriotismpreventedthem fromjoiningthePersianmonarch; and1800Thespianslookpartinthe BattleofPlataea.AftertheexpulsionofthePersiansfromthecountry, thesorely-triedcitywasrebuiltwiththeaidofitsvictoriousconfeder ates.AttheBattleofDelion(B.C. 424)theThespiansfoughtontheleft wingof theBoeotiansagainsttheforcesTanagra of andOrchomenos. In thisCght,however,thetownlosttheflowerofitscitizens;and thenceforwarditfounditdifficulttomakeheadagainstthe superiormight ofThebes.DuringthewarofB.C.378-372Thespiselongsidedwiththe Spartans,untilitwascompelledbytheThebanstoadopttheBoeotian cause.Epaminondas,however,clearlyperceivedthathecouldnotrely onthefidelityoftheThespiancontingent,andpermittedittowithdraw. WhenthebattleofLeuktra(p.lil)resultedinfavouroftheThebans, theThespiansrecognizedtheirfateandfledthe tomountainfastnessof Keressos(comp.above),where,however,theywereattackedanddefeated. Oncemorerebuilt,ThespisejoinedtheRomansintheThirdMacedonian War(171-168B.C.)andreceivedinconsequence,after146,acertain measureofindependence.In themiddleagesalltracesits ofhistoryarelost. ThespecialgodoftheThespianswasEros,whoseoriginalimagewasa formlessblockofstone.SubsequentlyPraxitelesaddedastatueofPentelic marble,andLysipposoneofbrass.Theformerworkofart,whichalone attractedmanyvisitorstothecity,was removedbytheEmperorCaligula, andthoughrestoredbyClaudius,wasagaintakenawayby"Nero.The statuewhichPausaniassawherewasanimitationofthisworkofPraxi teles,bytheAthenianMenodoros.—ThefamouscourtesanPhrynewas 170 Route15. LEUKTRA.FromLivadia anativeof Thespise; andstatuesofherandofAphrodite,bothbyPraxi teles,werealsoplacedhere. TheRuinsofthetown, whicheveninthe18thcenturywere takenforthoseofLeuktra, havehithertobeenonlysuperficially examined.Onlythelineofthecitywallandthesubstructuresof afewtempleshaveasyetbeenexcavated.Theextentoftheruins still,however,justifiesthestatementofStrabo,thatinBoeotiain histimeonlyThespiseandTanagracould claimthenameofcity. Thespise,beingsituatedontheplain,hadnoacropolisorupper town,butoutsidethecomparativelylimitedcity-wallproperlaya numberofopenandscatteredsuburbs.ThelargestwasontheE. side,adjoiningthegreatplain.OnthewaytoLeuktra(seebelow) a Polyandrion,withanancientlion,haslatelybeendiscovered, similartotheonementionedatp.162,inwhichalargenumber ofwarriorswereburied.Asthe inscribedtabletsfoundbesideit datefromthebeginningofthe5thcentB.C.,ithasbeensupposed thatthisisperhapsthegraveoftheThespianswhofellatTher mopylae. ThespiseliesontheroadfromThebestotheCorinthianGulf viaDombrana(p.166).Inthedirectionof (3hrs.)Thebesthisroad followsthecourseoftheThespios(p.166)andthenskirtstheN.base ofachainofhills,whichextendstoThebes.Nearthetownare numerousvineyards.—Thebes,seep.176. Travellers whospendthenightatPalaeo-PanagiaorEremo- kastroshouldvisitLeuktraandPlatseaonthewaytoThebes, insteadofgoingdirecttothattownandafterwardsmakingspecial excursionsfromit. Leuktraliesabout1 hr.fromThespise,beyondarangeofhills whichseparatestheplainsofthetwotowns.Euiresis, mentioned intheHomericcatalogueoftheships, throughwhichthe ancient roadfromThespisetoPlatsearan, wasprobablysituatedonthe easternmostelevationofthisrangeofhills,andperhapswaswatered bytheexcellentspringsofArkopddi('bear'spaw'),whichissue there. The plainofLeuktra,aboutl'/jM.broad,mergesontheE.in theplainofthelittleriverAsopos,andontheS.isboundedbya chainofhillsonwhich,sidebyside,liethethreevillages of Dendra,Tsdchani,andTsachanani,allincludedunderthecommon nameofParapoungia.[Night-quarterstobeobtainedhereonlyby travellersprovidedwithanintroduction.]Thisspotisbelievedto bethesiteofLeuktra.LikeEutresis,Leuktrawasasmalldepen dencyofPlatsea,andprobablywasneversurroundedbywalls.It isnottobeexpectedthereforethatanyconsiderableremainsshould befound; andthenumerousinscribedtabletsandstonesbuiltinto thechurchesofthethreeabove-mentionedvillages(mostinthe ChapeloftheHagiiApostoli,6min. fromDendra)arenowtheonly tracesthe offormerexistenceof thelittletown.Theplainof to Thebes. PLATASA. 15.Route.171 Leuktra wasthescenein B.C.371ofthebattlewhichgavesThebes thehegemonyofGreeceforabriefperiod. TheBattleofLeuktraisvariouslyrepresentedbydifferentancient authors,andintheensuingdescriptionwefollowXenophon.Inorderto decidethecontentionsthathadarisenbetweenSpartaandThebesincon sequenceofthepeaceofAntalkidas(p.177),theSpartankingKleombrotos advancedwitha powerfularmyfromPhocistoKreusis(p.174)acrosa theS.sideofHelicon.HisintentionwastofalluponThebeswhichhad beendenudedoftroops.Suddenly,however,hismarchwasarrested bytheunexpectedappearanceoftheenemyonthehillsopposite Leuktra.InspiteofthesuperiorityoftheSpartannumbers,Epa- minondasinducedhisBoeotianstoawaittheattack.TheSpartansap proachedconfidentofvictory.Botharmiesadvancedtheircavalryto beginthefight;buttheexcellentBoeotianhorsefarexcelled thatthe of Peloponnesians,who,asofold,reliedchieflyontheirhoplitesandmounted onlytheirleastefficientsoldiers.TheSpartaninfantrywasdrawnupin alongline12mendeep,whiletheThebans,lessextended,stood50deep, readytohurlthemselves(in'wedge'or'columnformation'1)againstthe rightwing,undertheking,andafterroutingittodefeattherestofthe enemyattheirease.TheSpartancavalrywassoon drivenbackinwild confusiononthehoplites,closelyfollowedup bytheThebans.Fora longtimetheLacedfemoniansstoodfirm,butatlastnotonlythekingbut thetwogeneralsDeinonandSphodriasfell,andalsoKleonymos,theson ofthelast.Theirrightwinggaveway.Theleftseeingthiswavered also,butsucceededinretiring,thoughwithheavyloss,tothecamp, whichhadbeen formedontheslopeofthehillandwasdefendedbya ditch.Afewvoiceswerethereraisedinfavouroftryingtheirfortuneonce more-,butthepolemarchs, inspiteofthedisgraceawaited thatboth themandtheirarmyinSparta,didnotventuretorenewthebattle. About1000the ofLacedaemoniansfelljamongthem400Spartans; acknow ledgingdefeat,theybeggedatruceinordertoburytheirdead.The armsof thefallenwere,however,retainedbythevictors,andfivecent urieslatertheshieldsofthechiefSpartanofficerswereseenbyPausa- niasatThebes.TheThebans,whoaccordingtoPausaniaslost47men only,rearedatrophyonthespotwherethebattlehadragedmostfiercely. The TrophywhichtheThebanserectedonthefieldisparticul arlyinterestingasitwasnotusualtoplacepermanentmonum entsofthevictoriesofGreeksoverGreeks.AccordingtoCicero, itwasofbronze,standingona stonebaseadornedwithtablets. Ulrichsbelievedhehadfoundtheremainsofthebasein1839, besidetheroad,about3/4M.fromParapoungia,and^M. from theruinedchapelofSt.John,inthewallsofwhichsomeancient hewnstonesareimmured.ThedistrictiscalledsthMdrmaraand nowsometimesalsotbTrdpaeon. Plataea,whichliesaboutJU/ghr.fromLeuktra,maybereached eitherviathevillageofKapareli,orbyatrackpassingtotheleft ofit."WetraversetheS.W.partoftheplainof theAsopos,whence thelittlestreamofOer6e('QepoTj),themodernPotdmiLivadostro^ flowsofftowardstheW.OntheS.stretchesabroadandloftyspur ofKithaeronorElatids(p.175),onthelowerslopeofwhichlies thevillageofKokla,which,however,ourroad doesnotenter.About 1/4hr.totheN.lietheruinsofthefamouscityofPlatsea. Platsealayatthe N.baseofEithscron,nearthejunctionofroads fromAttica,Megaris,andtheN.E.baysoftheCorinthianGulf.Its nameprobablymeansthe'townontheplateau'.Althoughitseemsto havebeenfoundedoratleastre-settledbycolonistsfromThebes,its 172 Route15. PLATvEA. FromLivadia relations withthatpowerfulcitysoonbecamestrained,anditturnedfor supporttoSparta. Sparta,however,referredittothelessdistantAthens; andthealliancestruckin519betweenPlataeaandthatcity,even although itwasonlyenteredintofrominterestandthoughAthensderivedthe greateradvantagefromit,isaninterestingexceptiontothenumerous faithlesscompactswhichstainthehistoryofGreece.InB.C.490the Platceanewiththeirwholeforces(1000men)stoodshouldertoshoulder withtheAtheniansatMarathon,andtenyearslater,althoughtheywere onlyusedtofightingonland,theymanned20Athenianshipsatthesea- fightofArtemision.OntheretreatoftheGreeksthePlata?anshastened hometoprotecttheirfamilies,andsohadnoshareintheensuingbattle ofSalamis.ThoughPlateeawasburnedbythePersiansin480,itsdestruc tionmusthavebeenonlypartial,forin 479,whenthebattletookplace whichdrovethePersiansfromGreciansoil,itagainexistedasacity. The BattleofPlat^awasfoughttowardstheendofSeptember, B.C.479.Thefollowingdescriptionofthebattleandprecedingeventsis takenmainlyHerodotus, from thoughtheaccountsofotherauthorshave alsobeenconsulted.Mardonios> thePersianleader,led histroopsvia DekeleiatoTanagraandthencetoSkolosyinThebanterritory,wherehe formedacampstretchingfromErythroe,pastHysiae,intotheterritoryof Plateea(p.175).ThePeloponnesianGreeksjoinedtheAtheniansatEleusis, andthecombinedGreekarmy, findingthePersiansencampedon the Asopos,tookupapositionatthefootandontheslopesofKith&ron. Mardoniosawaitedinvainthe descentoftheGreeksintotheplain;and Masistios,whomheatlastsenttoattackthemwiththePersiancavalry, wasdefeatedandslain. The GreeksnowresolvedtowithdrawtoPlateea,wheretheground wasmorefavourableandwhereacopioussupplyofwaterwasoffered bythespringofGarguphia.Breakinguptheircamp,theymarchedalong theslopesofKithreronpastHysise,andencampedinPlateeanterritory betweenthelowhillsbeside theand springthe 'temenos1ofthehero Androkrates.HereadisputearosebetweentheAtheniansandtheTegeans astowhichshouldoccupytheleftwingnexttheHeroon\ andatlast theformersucceededincarryingtheir point.TheLacedemoniansformed therightwing,restingontheGargaphia.AtErythreetheGreekshad facedtotheN.,butinthisSecondPositiontheirfrontwasturnedtowards theE.WhenMardonioslearnedthattheGreeksstoodin battlearraynear Platrea,heatonceshiftedhistroopsalsoalittletowardstheW.andtook upanewpositionoppositetheGreeks,ontheothersidethe ofAsopos. HedaemoniansarrangedandhisthetroopsTegeans,sothatthetheMedes,PersiansBactrians,werepittedIndians,againstandtheLaceSakee againsttheGreekcentre,andlastlytheBoaotians,Locrians,Malians, Thessalians,and1000PhociansagainsttheAthenians,Platteans, and Megareans.TheMacedoniansandtheauxiliariesfromthe bordersofThes- salywerealsoopposedtotheAthenians.The armyofthebarbarians amountedto300,000men,besidesabout50,000Greekallies; theconfed erateGreekarmywasnotmorethanone-thirdasnumerous. Fortendaysneithersidestirred,exceptthatonthe eighthdaythe PersianscutoffaGreekconvoythattriedtopassovertheKithieron.At lastMardoniosresolvedtomakeanattack.AlexanderofMacedonfore warnedtheGreeksofthis,andtheircommander-in-chief,theSpartan kingPausanias,causedhiscountrymentochangeplaceswiththeAthenians onthegroundthatthelatterhadalreadyhadsomeexperience(atMarathon) ofthePersianmodeoflighting,andwouldthereforebebetterableto encounterthem.ThePersianwings,however,alsoexchangedpositions, sothatPausaniaatoeffecthisobjectwascompelledtoexposehimselfto theridiculeofMardonios,andtoadopthisoriginalarrangement.The Persianshadmeanwhilesucceededbya cavalryattackinfillingupthe Gargaphia,whichsuppliedtheGrecianarmywithwater,andthelatter werecompelledtotakeupaThirdPosition,onaspotcalledbyHerodotus the'Island''(p.174).Thechangewasaccompaniedwithsomeconfusion. MostoftheGreeksmadeadisorderlyrushfortheHersconortemple ofHerabetweentheIslandandthetown,inordertobeasfaraspossible to Thebes. PLAT^EA. 75.Route.173 from theenemy.WhenPausaniasobservedthatthisdivisionhadhalted infrontofthe sanctuary,hesupposedthatithadoccupieditsappointed position, andgaveorderstotheSpartanstofallbackuponthe'Island1. TheAtheniansalsomarchedinthesamedirection,crossingtheplainto theN.ofthehillsoverwhichtheSpartanshadtopass.Theadvance ofthelatterwag,however,temporarilydelayed.TheSpartanAmom- pharetos,captainofthelochosorbandofPitana,refusedtochangehis positionasecondtime,ortomakea retrogrademovement;butasPau saniascontinuedtopresson, andastheAtheniansalsomovedforward, hehadatlengthtogivewayandrejoinedPausanias,whowaitedforhim ontheMotoeis,10stadia(X1/*M.)off,nearatempleoftheEleusinian Demeter.Mardonios, moreandmoreconvincedthattheGreekswere afraidofhim,crossedtheAsoposandadvancedagainsttheLacedaemonians andTegeans,whiletheAthenianscontinuedtheirmarchandthe other GreeksremainedencampedatthetempleofHera.TheGrecianforces werethussplitintothreedivisions, separatedfromeachotherbycon siderableintervals. The PersiancavalrydashedagainstthetroopsunderPausanias,while theAthenianswererestrainedbytheGreekauxiliariesofthePersians fromcomingtotherescue.TheLacedeemoniansandTegeansthusen counteredthePersianssingle-handed.MardonioswasslainbyArimnestost andthePersianswithdrew,afterheavyloss,intotheirintrenchmentson thebanksoftheAsopos. The AtheniansmeanwhilehaddefeatedtheBoeotiansafterafierce struggle.TheremainingGreeks,encampedbesidetheHereeon,had hithertotakennopartinthebattle;butreceiving on thenewsofvictory, theyalsoadvanced,therightcentre,whichwascomposedchieflyof Corinthians,crossingtheheightstowardsthetempleofDemeter,while theMegareansandPhliasiansoftheleftcentretooktheeasierroute throughtheplain.Thislastdivisionwashoweverrouted,withheavy loss, bytheThebancavalry.In themeantimetheLacedeemoniansand AthenianshadstormedthestrongPersiancampontheAsopos, securing anincredibleamountofbooty.Themeedofvalourwas,ontheproposal ofAristides,awardedtothePlatseans, onwhoseterritoryandunderthe eyesofwhosegodsandheroesthebattlehadbeenfought. Thememoryofthebattlewaskeptgreenbythesolemnfestivalof theEleutheriatwhichuntilalateperiodwascelebratedeveryfour years underthedirectionofPlatsea.TheconfederateGreeksalsoguaranteed theautonomyofPlatsea,undertooktoprotectitagainstallunjustattacks, andvotedagrantof80talentstothecitizens. The townnowawoketoanewlife,andwasregardedasinviolable untilthePeloponnesianWaroncemorestirredupallpassions.The slaughterof300Thebans,whohadattemptedtosurprisePlatsea431), (B.C. broughtanarmyofThebansandPeloponnesiansbeforeitswalls.After anexhaustingsiege,whichbroughtthecitizenstotheendoftheirre sources,theyattemptedasortie.AfewofthebravePlateeanscuttheir waythroughthebesiegersandeffectedtheirescapetoAthens,butthe restwereputtotheswordattheinstigationtherevengeful of Thebans. Thecityitselfwaslaidinruins.TheAthenianssentthefugitivestothe littleThraciantownofSkioneywheretheywereallowedtoremainonly untiltheendofthewar.FromthatdateuntilthepeaceofAntalkidas (B.C.387),whichrestoredindependencetoallthecitiesofGreece,the PlatseanslivedinAthens.Therestorationoftheircitywasofshort duration;forinB.C. 373itwasoncemoredestroyedbytheThebans. Athensagainaffordedsheltertotheinhabitants,whodid notreturnto theirnativetownuntilafterthebattleofChseronea(p.161).Itscomplete rebuilding,however,does notappeartohavetakenplaceuntilthelast yearsofAlexandertheGreat(B.C.324).ButPlateeaplayednofarther partinhistory,andintheRomanperiodwasonlyredeemedfromutter insignificancebythememoryofitspast. TheRtrrNsoptheToavnaresituatedonaflatrockytriangular plateau,theS.apexofwhichisinalmostdirectcontactwith 174 Route15. KREUSIS. Kithieron.TheN.sideisthesteepest,tutitsslopeisby nomeans sheer; theE.andW.sidesarebothmoregradual,andareskirted bywater-courses,generallydry,whichdescendtothevalleyof the Asopos.Theancienttownwas dependentonitssprings,ofwhich thattothe"W.,onthewayfromKoklatotheruins,isstillused bythevillagers.Nearitliea fewlargeancientsarcophagiof verysimpleconstruction.AmongthespringstotheE.ofthetown, theonecalledVergoutianiisnowconsideredthebest,butitmust notbeconfoundedwiththeGargaphiaspringdestroyedbythe Persians(p.172). Theextentandstyleoftheruinsrenderitprobablethatthey datechieflyfromthetimeofPhilipII.andAlexandertheGreat. Theentirespaceisdividedintothreepartsbytwocross-walls, runningfromE.toW.TheS.cross-wall(83/4ft.thick)is,curiously enough,protectedontheoutsidebyaseriesoftowers.Thespace beyonditseemstohavebeenoriginallywithinthetownenclosure, andwhenthetownshranktotheinnerlineofdefence,theouter wallwasstillleftstanding.Theothercross-wall(inpoorpreser vation)hemmedintheN.W.angleoftheplateau,whichdescends steeplyonitsouterside,andthusformedakindofinteriorfortress asasubstituteforanelevatedacropolis.Thepositionofthegates cannotbeascertained,buttheywereprobablynearthesprings. TheBattleFieldextendsfromtheN.E.sideofthetown, acrossahillydistrictseamedwithwater-courses,totheplainofthe Asopos.TheintrenchedcampofMardonioslayontheotherside oftheriver.The'island'(vfjao;)towhichtheGreeksretiredwas apparentlysomeconsiderablestretchoflandsurroundedbybrooks, suchasmaystillbeseenontheN.sideofthetownenclosedby armsofthe Oerde.ThepositionsofthetempleofHera(20stadia outsideofthetown)andofthespringofGargaphiaareuncertain. .About9M totheW.ofKoklatheOeroeflowsintotheBayofLiva- doslro,whichisboundedontheW.bythefinemountainchainofKoro- mili(2950ft.).Closetothebaseofthelastlietheruinsofthelittle ThespianportofKreugis,throughwhichlaytheshortestsea-routebetween CorinthandThebes.Wallsandtowersandagate10ft.wide(without flankingtowers)arestilldistinctly traceable. The roadfromPlatseato(2hrs.)Thebescrossesthebattle-field. WedescendtheverdantslopesofKithaeron,crossseveralarmsoi theOeroe,andtraversethewell-cultivatedplainwithitsnumerous villages,someofwhich,however,arenolongerinhabited.About halfwaywecrosstheAsopos.—Thebes,seep.176.

16. FromAthenstoThebes. .44M DiligencesplydailybetweenAthensandThebesin11 hrs. in cludinghalts(fare10dr.),leavingAthens(Rued'Athene118)and Thebes (mainstreet)intheeveningandarrivingearlythenextmorninginboth places.Travellersare,however,advisedtoavoidthisnight-journeyand theunattractivecompanyofthediligence,andshouldhirea private carnage(about60dr.),whichperformsthejourneyin8'/2hrs.,including KITHSERON.16.Route.175 1 hr's.restat.theKhanofKasa.—Saddle-horsesandagogiatsmaybe hiredat Eleusis.—Railwayunderconstruction(comp.p.146). From Athensto(12M.)Eleusis,seepp.114etseq.—The roadtoThebescrossestherailway(p.148)andrunsinlandthrough thickolive-woodsto(1hr.)thelargevillageofMandra,wherewe enterthemountains,and(l'/2hr.more)theKhanofKoundoura. FartheronwehaveaviewtotherightofHymettosandPentelikon. Alittletotherightoftheroad,nearthepointwhereitcrossesthe uppercourseoftheEleusinian Kephisos,isthevillageofMazi, withanancientwatch-tower. The KhanofKasa(1365ft.),withpolice-barracks,lies2'/2hrs. beyondKoundoura.Hencearoaddivergestothelefttothevillage ofVilia,atthemouthofthevalleyoftheancientASgosthenae(now PortoGermano),withsomeruinedwalls.Onaneminencetothe rightofourroadstandsthesmallmountain-holdofEleutherae(the modernGyphtdkastroor'gipsycastle'),whichinspiteofitsposition ontheS.sideofKithserononcebelongedtoBoeotia.Subsequently, however,itbecameanindependentborder-townofAttica.Eleu- theriedisputedwithThebesthehonourofbeingthebirthplaceof Dionysos(comp.p.54).Considerableportionsof thecity-walls, strengthenedwithtowers,stillremain. The roadnextwindsforabout1hr.upKithseron(Cithaeron), nowcalledElatias('PineMountain'),thehighestpeakofwhich (4620ft.)isvisibletotheW.fromtimetotime.Thewoodswhich clotheitssidesaboundinwingedgame,stags,roes,hares,wild boars,wolves,andfoxes.BeyondthesummitoftheancientPass oftheThreeHeadsor oftheOak'sHeads(Tpei;orApuotKe

THEBES. 16.Boutt.177 Thebansnotonlyrefusedtoaccompanyhimbutpreventedhimfrom sacrificingat Aulis,andduringthe BoaotianWar(battleofKoroneia,B.C. 394)ThebesopenlyassistedAthens.ThepeaceofAntalkidastheSpartan (B.C.387)compelledThebestorestoreindependencetotheBoeotiantowns; andattheinstigationofAgesilaosLacedaemonianharmostsweresentto thesetownsandPlatseawasrebuilt.In B.C.Phoebidas 382 succeededwith thehelpoftreacheryinthrowingaSpartangarrisonintotheKadmeia.The patrioticThebansfoundshelterAthens, at andthencePelopidasmadehis successfulattempttoretaketheircity(B.C.379).ThevengeanceofSpartawas defiedwiththehelpoftheAthenians,who,howeverwerealienatedbythe destructionofPlatsea(p.173),andconcludedpeacewithSpartainB.C.371. TheThebanswerenowlefttotheirownresources.Fortunatelythey possessedinEpaminondasamanwhowasableto leadthemtovictory atLeuktra(p.171),whereSpartalostherpreponderanceinGreece.Thebes was, however, notcapableofpermanentlywieldingthehegemonyof Greece,anditsstarsetwiththedeathofEpaminondasatthebattle of Mantinea(B.C.362*,p.292).TheinterferenceofPhilipII.of'Macedonin theso-calledholywaragainstAmphissa(p.153)andtheexertionsofDe mostheneseventuallybroughtaboutanalliancebetweenThebesandAthens; butthebattleofChaeroneareducedbothunderthepoweroftheMace donianking.OrchomenosandPlatseaaroseoncemorefrom-theirruins, andtheKadmeiaatThebeswasgarrisonedbyMacedonians.Itsrevolt onPhilip'ssuddendeathinB.C.336wasvisitedbyAlexandertheGreat withfireandsword;onlythetemplesandPindar'shousewereleftstand- ittg-ItissaidthatoOOOcitizenswereslainonthisoccasion,and30,000 carriedintocaptivity;whiletheThebsnterritorywasdividedamongthe othertownsofBoeotia.ThebeswasrestoredinB.C. 315byKassander, whowasaidedbytheAtheniansandotherGreeks. The furtherhistoryofthetownundertheMacedonianstheRo and mansisoflittleinterest. In themiddleagesThebeswastheseatof abishopandpossessed flourishingmanufactories,includingseveralsilk-weavingandpurple-dying works.When,therefore,theNormansinvadedGreecein1147,theyfound thesackingofThebesoneoftheirmostprofitableactsofplunder.It, however,soonrecoveredfromthisdisaster.AfterthetakingofConstan tinoplein1204,ThebesfellforashorttimeintothehandsofthePelo- ponnesianvaders.Itbecame archonsubjectSgouros,partlyand LeontothentheDukeintothoseofAthens,ofthepartly,Frankishtothein*, wealthylordsofSt.Omeryoneofwhom(NicolasII.deSt.Omer,1258-94) builtamagnificentcastle,ofwhichtheonlyrelicseemstobethelarger ofthetwotowersalreadymentioned.Itwasdestroyedbythewildhordes oftheCatalonians(p,193)1311. in Under,theTurksThebesdegenerated intoahumblevillage,whichhasonlyoflatebegunto revive.Theplace sufferedseverelyfromanearthquakein1853. The accumulatedrubbishofcenturiesandtheeffectofearth quakesconsiderably have disguised,iftheyhavenotessentially altered,theappearanceofthe oldsiteofthetown.Withtheex ceptionofAthensthereisnoothertowninGreece,inwhichan cientremainshavebeenfoundintheiroriginalpositionsatsogreat adepth(16-18ft.)ashere:Butonthewholetheplacfrispoorin monumentsofantiquity. Anoldwriter,about260B.O.,thusdescribesthegeueralchar acterofancientThebes; 'Thistown',hesays,'liesinthemidstof Bceotiaandhasacircuitof70stadia.Allitspartsarelevel,its formiscircular,anditshueblackliketheearth.Itisaveryold city,butithasbeennewlyrestored,afterbeingthricedestroyed, ashisteryrelates,onaccount^)fthequarrelsomeandarroganttemper oftheBaedeker'sinhabitants.Greece.It2ndisEdit.suitableforrearinghorses12; andbeing 178 Route16. THEBES. everywherewell-watered,verdant,andundulating,itincludesmore gardensthananyothertown.Fortworiversflowthroughitspre cincts,wateringallthelevellandadjoiningtheirhanks,andhidden springsdescendfromtheKadmeiainartificialchannels,saidtohave beenconstructedbyKadmosinveryancienttimes.Thisisthe presentaspectofthetown.Butitisdeficientinwoodandisabad wintering-placeonaccountoftheriversandthewind; forit is muchafflictedwithsnow,andisoftenverymiry'. The streamletsHagios ofJoannes(Ismenos)andPlakiotissa (Dirke)areusuallyregardedasmarkingrespectivelytheE.andW. boundariesoftheancientcity.Somerecentauthoritieshavesought toadvancetheW.boundarymuchfarther,onthegroundthatthe burntbricksfoundbeyondthePlakiotissamustbeidentifiedasthe remainsofthetown-wallbuiltbyKassanderin316B.0.;butthis viewhasfoundmanyopponents.Italsoappearstobeanopen questionwhethertheKadmeiaoccupiedtheentirehillupon which modernThebesstands,oronlytheS.endofit.Butitisgenerally agreedthattheexternalwallofthecitadelontheS.coincidedwith thetown-wall.ThepopulationofThebesinthe4thcent.,before itsdestruction,isestimatedat30-40,000. Pausaniasisthemostaccurateguideforthetopographicalde tailsofThebes.Themostimportantquestionisthatoftheposition ofthesevengates.Evenalthoughthesehadlosttheirstrategic significancebythetimeofPausanias,andalthoughprobablythe wallsbetweenthemlaypartlyinruins,theirposition,accordingto thatwriter,wasnonethelessperfectlywell-known.Wemayassume thatthe ElektrianGatewasontheS.,asthroughitenteredthe roadfromPlatsea,whichcoincideswiththepresentroad(p.174). TheroadtoChalkisissuedbytheProetidianGate,whichmust thushavebeenontheN.E.Thetheatreandthemarket-place laynearthisgate.TheNeitianorNehtianGatemustbelookedfor ontheN.W.; outsideitbegantheroadtoOnchestos(Livadia, p.162),fromwhich,fartheron,theroadtoThespiaedivergedto theleft.Atthebeginningoftheformerofthese roadsanecro poliswasfoundafewyearsago,withfragmentsofvasesdating asfarbackasthe8thcent.B.C.Thepositionsoftheothergates arelesseasilyascertained; theyweretheOgygianorOnkaean Gate,besidewhichtherewasanaltartoAthenaOnka(perhaps onthesiteofthepresentHag.Trias),theHypsistaeanGate,the KrenaeanGateandtheHomolo'ianGate. Thebes wasoneofthebest-wateredtownsinGreece,though theIsmenosisnowtheonlyoneofitsstreamsthatflowsallthe yearround.Thetown-springproperwastheDirke(Dirce).The ancientsspeakofthe'Dirceanstreams'andthe'Dirceansprings', andinfacttheDirkestreamlet,nowcalledthePlaki6tissa,isformed byseveralspringswhichriseinanundulatingdistrict,3/4hr.to theS.ofThebesandnearthevillageofTachi(probablytheancient THEBES. 16.Route.179 suburb of Potniae).ThemainsourceiscalledKephaldri,andone ofthesmalleronesisnamedPegaddki.Afewlargetanks,with ancientmasonryandinscribedtablets,servetoregulatetheirri gationofthesurroundinggardens.Athirdspringflowsfromthe roofoflittle a grotto,andisconsideredto affordthebestdrinking- waterinthedistrict.It iscalledtheCadi'sSpring(robttao-rj (Spian),because,asissaid,apashainNegropontcausedwatertobe broughthenceforhisdailyuseattable.ThelegendsofDirkealso connectthemselveswiththisregion,especiallythemythofher beingdashedtopiecesbythel>ulltowhichAmphionandZethos, thesonsofAntiope,hadtiedherinrevengeforherill-treatment oftheirmother.Thespringnamedafterherissaidtohavegushed forthatthespotwhereshewaskilled. On theS.W.slopeoftheKadmeiathestreamletispowerfully reinforcedbytheimpetuouswatersoftheParaportispring.This springflowsthroughseveralchannelsintoasquaretank,partlycon structedofmarble,whereatalltimesofthedaytheThebanwomen aretobeseenwashing.ItistheancientSpringofAres(Aretias), andtheadjacentcavewasthelairofthedragonslainbyKadmos. ItwasfromthepartoftheAcropolisabovethisspringthatthedead bodyofMencekeus(whohadslainhimselfasapropitiatorysacrifice toAres)fellamongthefollowersofthe'SevenagainstThebes'who werepressingthecityhard. AccordingtoarecentlydiscoveredfragmentofEuripides,theashesof DirkewerethrownintotheSpringofAreswhichwasthenceforthcalledDirke. Closeo t thesuburbofHagiiTheddori(950inhab.),inwhich theroadtoChalkisbegins(p.176),risesthecopiousSpringof Theodoras,whichwasancientlycalledQZdipodeia,becauseCEdipos herepurifiedhimselffromblood-guiltinessafterthedeathofJokasta. In theadjacentvillageofPi/rf(1000inhab.),formingtheN.W. suburbofthetown,aretwoother celebratedsprings,theChlevina, withamarblewell-houseandbench(totheleft),andtheVranesi (totheright). ThewantofwaterontheKadmeiawasearlysuppliedbymeans ofanAqueduct,fedbyspringsonKithffiron,2-3hrs.distantThis remarkableworkwasattributedbytheancientstoKadmos.Itwas againbroughtintouseonthe constructionoftheKamdraes,alofty aqueductcarriedbytheFranksoverthehollowofHagiosNikolaos, justoutsidetheS.entrancetothecity.Thewaterhereisseenflow ingintotheaqueductfromashaftorchannelpenetratingtheside ofthehill.Afewaperturesaffordglimpsesintotheinteriorofthis carefullyconstructedchannel,whichisonlyafewfeetwideatthe mouth.Itsdepthbelowthesurfaceincreasesaswefollowitup, butitisquitedistinctforabout%M.,whilefartheronitscourse maybetracedpartlybythedampnessofthesoil,andpartlybya lowembankment.Bye-and-byeitmakesabendtotheW.and disappears.—Attheruinsofanotheraqueductwepass thepath totheunder-mentionedohurchofHagiosLoukas. 12" 180 Route,16. ANEPHOEITES. 'TotherightoftheElektrianGate',saysPausanias,'isahill sacredtoApolloandcalledIsmenios,becausetheIsmenosflows pastit'.Thiscanonlybethehillwiththechurchandchurchyard ofHagiosLoukas;thefragmentsofmarbleandhewnstoneandthe appearanceofthechurchclearlyindicatethatanancienttemple mustonoehavestoodhere.Butnoothertracehasbeendiscovered ofthetempleofApollo,whichwasadornedwithworksofartby PhidiasandSkopas. The innerroomoftheChurchofSt.Luke,enteredbyasmalldoorto therightofthe'HolyPortal',containsalargesarcophagus,whichwas formerlyaffirmedtoholdthebodyofSt.LuketheEvangelist.Thesu perstitiousbeliefinthiswassostrongthattheworshippersbelievedthat waterinwhichsplintersofthelidhadbeenimmersedpossessedmira culoushealingpowers.Thethreelate-Greekinscriptions(probablynot earlierthanthe3rdcent,ofourera)relatetomembersofafamilyin whichZosimosandNedymosaretherecurring hereditarynames. Fragmentsofearlierbuildingsandinscribedstonesarealso foundinabundancenearthetwoFrankishtowersandthechurches. Acollectioninscriptions of fromtheearliestdatedowntotheBy zantineandeventotheTurkisheraispreservedaLMouselon\ in Italsocontainsafewsculptures,includinga reliefofHercules fromPyrf,andiswillinglyshewnbythe'Ephoros'Evstratios Kalopqet. FbomThebestoChalkis,19M.,omnibusalmostdaily(fare 8dr.).ThegoodroadbeginsatthesuburbofBagiiTheddori(p.179), crossesseveralusuallydrywater-courses(thechiefonebeingthe Soros,p.183),andinli/ghr.joinstheroadfromTanagravia Dritsa(p.184).TotheN.E.weseethehamletofSirdsi,onthe slopehill, of awithremainsoftheancientQlisas;andtotheright ofitrisetheSagmatas,theancientHypaton,withaconventonthe top,andtheKtypas(3345ft.),theMesaapionoftheancients. BeyondthejunctiontheroadskirtstheS.baseofthehills,on which,totheright,lietheruinsofMykaleasos(p.184),andthen ascendstothe(3'/2hrs.)passofAnephorites,whichliesbetween theKtypas,ontheleft,andtheMegaloVouno,ontheright,and commandsa fineviewofEubcea.The summitofthepassisnow called'Fort(xocp/iroupia)ofKriziotis',becauseKriziotishererepul sedOmerPashaandhistroopsontheirwayfromChalkisin1829. Aspaceattheexitfromthepass,'/2hr.fartheron,isnamedthe 'Mountain-guard(xapao6Xt)ofKaraiskakis'.Thepathwindssteeply downto(35min.)thelittleplainVlicha, of inwhichtheroads fromThebes,Aulis,andLarymriaunite.TheHermaeonmentioned byThucydideshasbeenconjecturallylocatednotfarfromthechapel oftheHagiaParaskeve.ItwasprobablyasmalltempleofHermes, thegodofroads.TheroadskirtstheoldTurkishfortofKar&baba {Kanethos,p.206),nowapowder-magazine.Theancientworkings intherockonitsS.sidemayhavebeentombs.In10 min.more wereachthebridgeacrosstheEuripos.—Chalkis,seep.205. 181 17. FromAthenstoThebesorChalkisviaTanagra. ToThebesorChalkis,in2-3days,eithervia,Oropdt,spendingthe nightsatKalamasandStanidtesorSkimatdri,orviaTatdi,spendingthe nightatKako-SdletiorLidtani.—Horsesormulesareusuallyto nothe obtainedatTatoi. FromAthenstoTanagraviaOrop6s.—RailwaytoKephisia, seepp.119, 120.ThejourneyIscontinuedonhorsebackalonga goodroad,-whichatfirstcoincideswiththattoMarathon(p.126), passingtheruinsofAphidnaandKapandriti,to(abouthrs.) 6 Kalamas,wherethetravellermayspendthenightinthe bakaliof AlekoKiousis. KiMavrodilisi,about20min.from Kalamas,laytheAmphiareion ororacleoftheseerandheroAmphiaraos,oneofthe'Sevenagainst Thebes'.Ashewasfleeingafterthedefeattheearth,struckbya thunderboltfromZeus,openedatthispointandswallowedhim up,thusrescuinghimfromhispursuers.TheArchaeologicalSo ciety(p.97)haslaidbareaTempleoftheHellenisticperiodanda rowofStatueBases,bothlyingtotheleftoftheMuseum,which chieflycontainsinscriptions; totherightofit isaColonnade,be hindwhicharetheimportantremainsofasmallTheatre.Thestage, ■whichhasbeenwellpreserved,isboundedbyeightpillarswith pilasters,betweenwhichthesceneswerehung.Theonlytraceof theauditoriumconsistsoffiveseatsclosetotheorchestra. Inaboutl*/ghr.morewereachtheSkalaofOropds(SxdXa 'QpoHtou),wherethetravellerwithintroduction an willfindenter tainmentatthehouseofthe'Epistates'oragentofthebanker SyngrosinAthens. SkalaOropouisabout18M.fromChalkis(p.205).Theplacespassed onthewayareDiliti,l/zM.fromwhicharetheunimportantruinsof theancientharbourofBilion(seebelow),Dramesi,Gherali,andAulis. Travellers boundforTanagraturninlandatSkalaOrdpouand followtheToadtoTatoiacrosstherichlywoodedvalleyofthe VourieniorOrop6s,theancientAsopos.About1hr.totheS.W. asteepwoodedhillmarksthesiteoftheacropolisoftheancient townofOrdp6s,oftenmentionedintheborder-warsbetweenthe AtheniansandBceotians,butofwhichpracticallynoremainsnow exist.Wedivergetotheright here,crossthestreamandreach (3/4hr.)Sykamino,avillagewithseveralmediaevalchurches,charm inglysituatedbelowareddishhillatthebeginningofaravine. Onr routenextskirtstheleftbankoftheVourieni,thevalley ofwTiichsoonexpandsagain,passes(V2hr.)alargeRomangrave, butustraversesshrubs,a seriesandreachesoflow(i1^!11-)hillscoveredconspicuouswithunderwoodhamletofandStan-ar- iates,withitsmediaevaltower.Staniatesistheprobablesceneof thebattleofDelion(B.C.424),whentheweightoftheTheban phalanxwonadecisivevictoryovertheAttichoplitesunderHippo- kratesontheirwaybackfromDelion.AmongtheAthenianson thatoccasionwerebothSocratesandAlkibiades,thelatterofwhom. 182 Route17. SKIMATAEI.FromAthens attherisk oflife, hisrescuedthephilosopherinthemele'e; while Xenophon,whoisalsosaidtohavetakenpartInthefight,wasin similarmannerrescuedbySocrates. From Staniatesweproceeddirectto(50min.)theChapelofSt. TheodoreandthesiteofTanagra(p.183).Skimatari,1hr.tothe N.(ca.l'/4 hr.fromStaniates),isusuallychosenasheadquarters foravisittotheruins,especiallybytravellersapproachingfrom Thebes.AccommodationisprovidedatNikolo'sBakali,butitis advisabletobringprovisions.ThetwoMuseumsareuninteresting. Staniatesismoreconvenientasheadquartersfora detailedexam inationoftheruinsofTanagra.ThedistancefromSkimatarito thechapelofSt.TheodoreandTanagraisabout3M. From AthenstoTanagravia.TatoI.ToTatdi,adriveof 4hrs.,or arideof2hrs.fromKephisia,seep.120.Theroadas cendsthroughwoodedravines,beneaththePalaeokastroofKoutao- myti,anancientfort,to(l'/2hr.)thesummitofthepassoverMt. Ozea{Parries;highestpeakontheW.,4625ft.),wherethereisa royalguard-house.Wethendescend,passingseveralgorgesstretch ingdownfromParnes,andtraverseavalleywateredbyasmall affluentoftheAsoposbounded andontheN.bytheMalesa,aspur ofPames.Themountainslopesareclothedwithextensiveforests ofpinesandvelanidiaoaks(Quercus^Egilops).Theroadforksat thefoot,therightbranchleadingtoOroposandtheskalaofthe samename(adrive3 ofhrs.fromTato'i; comp.p.120),theleft branchtoKako-Salesi(seebelow). Ridersdivergetotheleftalittlebeyondtheabove-mentioned guard-house,andin20min.reachthechapelofHagiosMerkourios, witha springshadedbya fineplane-tree.Thencetheyproceed throughabeautifulwoodedgorge(pathoccasionallystony),andin 40min.striketheroadnearabridgeontherailwaynowbeing builtfromAthenstoChalkisandThebes.Apathleadingthrough oak-grovesbringsusinl3/4hr.moreto— Kako-Salesi,atthefootoftheabruptcliffsontheN.side of theArmeni.TheviewembracesthewholevalleytotheN.asfar asStaniates(seeabove). The shorterroadfromKako-SalesitoTanagra(3V4hrs.)traverses thedistrictsofVlassatiandQinossi,thelatterwithanexoellent well(xaXoH'rjYaSi),andthenascendsarockyhill,honey-combed withcaverns,tothelargevillageof(2Y4hrs.)Liatani.Liataniis thecapitalofthewholedistrictandcontainsachurchandseveral chapels,ontheexteriorofoneofwhich(theByzantinechapelof HagiosNikolaos)isaninterestingByzantinerelief.TotheW.we seethesharppeakaboveChlembotsari(p.183).Wenowdescend andtraversethecorn-growingplainoftheAsopos,crossingtheriver byanewbridgeneara mill,notfarfromtheChapelofHagios Theodoros,withitsmedievaltower.TheLari,flowingfromtheN., enterstheAsoposhere. to ThebesorChalkit.TANAGEA. 17.Route.183 On theleftbankoftheAsopos, about1hr.fromLiataniand asfarfromSkimatari(p.182),liestheruinedtownofTanagra (nowcalledGrem&dd).Tanagra,whichbelongedtothe leagueof theBoeotiantowns,madeitsdebutinhistoryasthespotwhere,in B.C.455,theAtheniansfirstmeasuredtheirstrengthinopenbattle withtheSpartans.ThetreacherousdesertionoftheAtheniansby theThessaliancavalrygavethevictorytothe Spartans.Thespot owesitsmodernfametotheproductiveexcavationsbegunin 1874. The ruinslieontheextremityofaridgecalledKerykeionby theancient,andMalev&lesebythemodernGreeks.Theancient enceintemaybetracedalmostuninterruptedly,andatplacesstill attainsaconsiderableheight,thoughhalf-buriedinrubbish.The sitesof40or50Towerscanbereoognized,andalsothreeOates, whiohmaybedescribedastheChalkidian,ontheN.E.,theTheban ontheN.W.,andtheAtticontheS.E.—TheTheatreoccupiesthe high-lyinggroundadjoiningS."W. thepartofthewall,fromwhich thesiteofthetowndescendsintwoterracestothebankofthe Larl.Ontheupperterracearetheremainsoffoundation-wallsof dark-colouredstone,whichevidentlybelongedtosomelargebuild ings(temples?),andrecalltheremarkofPausaniasthattheTa- nagrieansweredistinguishedamongtheHellenesbyabeautiful oustominreferencetotheirgods,fortheykepttheirhousesand secular buildingsapartfromtheirsanctuaries,sothatthelatterlay aboveandfarawayfromtaintofhumancontact.Themonumentof theTanagrjeanpoetessKorinna,acontemporaryofPindar(500B.C.), stoodwithinthetownproper. The Necropolis,whichhascomedowntoour daysuninjured,lies beyondtheLari,mainlyonthehillofKokkali.Thegravesarethe sourceofthecharming'figurines'inpaintedterracotta(p.xcvii), whichfurnishsopleasingatestimonytotheloveofartamongthe ancientTanagraans.Thequantityof figuresfoundhereissogreat thatfinespecimensmaybepurchasedfor100-200fr.Buyersshould bewareofimitations(whicharesometimeslargelymadeupofgenuine fragments),andalsoofre-paintedspecimens,thoughunfadedcolour ingIsinitselfnoproofofspuriousness. From TanagbatoThebestherearetworoutes.Theslightly shorterbutinferiorS.Soad(4hrs.)firstascendsthevalleythe of Asoposandaftercrossinga 'revma'thatrunsintoit,reaches (l'/2hr.)Chlembots&ri.ThisvillageliesontheS.W.slopeofa hill,onwhicharesomeancientwheel-tracksandtheruinsofa smallfortress(highupbesidechapel theofHagiosElias),probably markingthesiteoftheancientPharae.Iftheweatherbedry,our farthercourseliesacrossthespaciousplain;ifnot,overthehills.Da- rimari(p.175)liestotheleftontheslopeofKithaeron.In1hr.we re.achthehamletofMoustaphddes,andin3/4hr.morefindourselves atthefootoftheSards,perhapstheTeumessosoftheancients, withthefoundationsofantiquetemples(?).Finallywetraverse 184 Route17 MYKALESSOS. a barrenhillydistrictto(l3/*hr.)thelargechurchofSt.Luke, nearThebes,seep.179. .TheN Road(5hrs.),'whichischosenbymosttravellers,leads via(1hr.)Vratsito(3/*hr.)Dritsa,commandingacontinuousview oftheEuboeanmountainstotheE.NearDritsaisamediaevaltower withtwopinnacles,whichhasbeenfixeduponwithconsiderable .probability,asmarkingthesiteoftheancientEleonorHelton. Theremainsofthewall,partofwhichisinfairpreservation,show variousstylesofbuildingbutdateprobablyfromoneperiod.The tracknowrunstowardstheW.,pastthelittlevillageofSpa'ides, passesbetweenthe pointedSouldsontheleftandafewlowhills ontheright,andinabout1lfohr.strikestheroadbetweenChalkis and Thebes(p.180).HencetoThebes(p.176),in»/shr. From TanagratoChalkis,4hrs.—FromTanagratoSkima- tdri(p.182),1 hr.Thepathtraversesahillyplateau,command inganuninterruptedviewofthemountainsofDelphandOlympos inEuboBa,and,moretotheleft, ofAnephorites,Ktypas(p.180), andSagmatas(p.180).Aboutl3/nhr.fromSkimatari,in afer tilelittoralplain,liesVathy,derivingitsnamefromtwobaysor havens(fxeydloandftixpofiaftu)alittletotheN. Near theruinedchapelofHagiosNikolaos,whichlies>/2hr.from Vathyand20min.fromtheharbour,Ulrichs discoveredthesiteof thefamousTempleofDiana,whereAgamemnonwasonthepoint ofsacrificinghisdaughterIphigeneia,beforethe departureofthe GreekfleetforTroy.AnancientlineofwallistraceableontheS. andE.browofthesmallhill; andinandnearthechapelthere arenumerousremainsofancientbuildings.Aspringrisescloseby. The scantyruinsofAulisitselflieontheruggedridgeofrock whichstretchesintotheseabetweenthetwobays.Thelittletown neverattainedanyimportance,foritssitewasunfavourablefor thedevelopmentof acommunity; butthetwoshelteredbay6were excellentlyadaptedtobetherendezvousofafleet.Thethousand vesselsmentionedinthe catalogueoftheshipsintheIliadcould not,ofcourse,havebeenallafloatatonetimeinthebays; wemust thereforethinkofthemasdrawnuponshoreaccordingtothean cientcustom,atthesametimeallowingsomethingfortheexagger ationoflatertimes,whenthedesirearosetohaveeverytownof anyimportancewhatevermentionedintheHomericpoems. The routefromAulistoChalkis,bythepathviathechapelof Hag.Nikolaos(seeabove)andthenovertheridgetothe N.,takes fully2hrs.(boatfromChalkistoAulis,4-5dr.).—Mosttravellers, however,visittheruinsofMykalessos,whichlieontheMegaloVouno, alittleinlandfromAulis.Inspiteofitsproximitytotheseathis town,distinguishedbyanancientcultofApollo,wasnotasea port,butoweditsimportancetoitscommandofthefrequented passofAnephorites.AttheperiodofthePeloponnesianWarit MOUNT PTOON. 18.Route.185 was verypopulous,outhavingbeensurprisedandtakeninanight- attackfromtheseabytheAthenianDiitrephesattheheadofa troopofThraciansoldiers(B.C.413),itlostallitsimportance.The TOinsdividethemselvesintoanAcropolis,ontheupperpartof the hill,andamoreextensivebutlesswell-preservedLowerTownon theS.Althoughthewalls(about10ft.thick)areinruins,wecan stillidentifythesituationofallthetowers(about20ft.wide)and gates(aboutft.wide), 6 andcanalsodistinguishtracesofthe doorsandstairsofsomeoftheformer.Theconstructionshowsthe transitionfromtheoldpolygonalmasonrytothesystemofregular coursesofsquaredstones. The"Panoramafromthesummitofthehillhasbeenjustlypraised. AtthefeetofthebeholderstretchesthebeautifulEuriposwiththefortress 'OfChalkisandthedismantledfortofKdrubnba,andthebridgebetween them.OnEuboeathe majesticDelph(p.211)towersabovetheother mountains.TotheW.ofKarababaextendsthecoast-plain, withthe villagesofJfegaloandMikrdChalid,nearwhichisthesiteoftheancient Balgoneut.TotheE.isAulis; andtothe8.the eyefollowsthehilly BoeotiancoastasfartheAtticParnes. An ancientwall,restoredduringtheWarofIndependence, connectsMykalessoswiththepassofAnephorites(p.180).Thence toChalkis,l'^hr-iseep.180. 18.FromThebesalongtheEasternBankofLake KopaistoOrchomenos. Twor o threedays.1stday.FromThebesoverMt.Ptoonto(5V2hrs.) Karditza;visitQoulas.—2ndday.FromEarditzaviaTop6liato(9hrs,) Orchomenos.—IfthedetourviaLdrymnabeincluded,thesecondnight isspentatMartinoorTopdlia.Ifthelatterbechosenthethirdday's journeymaybeextendedtoLivadid(p.162). In additiontothebridle-pathoverMt.PtoontoKarditzadescribed below,thereisalsoaCarriageRoad,skirtingtheW.sideofLakeLikeri (carr.,in4hrs.,15-20dr.).Mosttravellerswill,however,preferthe former,especiallyasatEarditzait isnotalwayspossibletoprocuresaddle- horsesforthecontinuationofthejouney. Thebes,seep.176.Thetrackdivergestotheleftfromthe ChalkisroadatthesuburbofHagiiTheodori,andleadsthrough themonotonousplainThebes. of In2hrs.wereachthehillstotheK. ofLdkeLikeri(ca.140ft.),calledtheHylicanLakebytheancients, afterthetownofHylewhichissupposedtohavestoodontheN.E. bank.Theancientnamesoftheruinedfortificationspassedbyour routehereandatseveralotherpointsfartheronareunknown.We nextpassaspring,traversea'revma',descendingfromMoriki,and ascendto(3/4hr.)thevillageofHoungra,attheentrancetoavale boundedontheN.byPtoon,andontheS.bythemountainson LakeLikeri,andfortifiedinantiquity."Wefollowtheroadthrough thisvalley,theentrancestowhichwerefortifiedinancienttimes. ThelakeofParalimni,whichwedonotapproach,liestotheN.E. Inabout'/jhr.afterleavingHoungrawereachthefootofthebare MountPtoon(2380ft.),nowcalledPalagia,andin20tnin.mote thesummitofthepass,whichcommandsafineview. 168 Route18. AKRjEPHIA.FromThebes WelookbackoverthevalleyofHoungra,beyondwhichisMLHy- patonwithMoriki,whilemoretotherightrisesParties,ontheAttic- Boaotianborder,andbetweenthemthelonghill-chainofTeumessos(p.179). Belowus,onthebankofLakeLikeri,liesthehamletof8engena,situated inasmallriparianplainendingatthecliffofKlimatorias,whichprojects intothelakefromtheN.TotheW.theviewcomprisespartofthe PlainofKopais,withMt.Akontion, onthefarthestslopeofwhichlies Orchomenos(p.193);stillfartheroff risesthemassiveParnassos,andmore totheS.weseethefissured Helicon. The pathnowkeepsonthesamelevelalongtheslopesofPtoon, andthendescendsalittle.In'/jhr.itagainascends,andround ingthesteepcragsontheW.sideofPtoon,reaches(20rain.) alittlemonntain-valley,inwhichthePerdikdvrysis,or'Partridge Spring',riseswithinanancientenclosureofmasonry.Nearthe chapelofHagiaParaskevetheFrenchArchaeologicalSchool(p.94) hasrecentlybroughttolighttheTempleofApolloPtoos,withthe adjoiningbuildings.Thechiefobjectsof interestfoundduringthe excavations,includingnumerousbronzesandsomearchaicmarble statuesofApollo,havebeenremovedtoAthens.Somearchitectural fragmentsandinscriptionsstilllieonthesiteofthetemple,and othersmaybeseenattheC/2h*0conventofPalagia,wherenight- quartersmaybeobtained.Nodetailedinformationhascomedown tousaboutthenatureofthePtoanoracle,whichexisteduntilthe Romanperiod. Opposite thechapelpath ourcrossestherevmawhichreceives thewaterofthePerdikovrysis,andthendescendsgraduallyonthe othersidethroughtheravineto(40min.)Karditza.Anotherfoot path,divergingtotheN.,leadsacrossthemountaintothevillage ofKoTckino. AttheexitfromthedefileliesthelargevillageofKarditza, theseatofademarch,andaboveitrisestheacropolisoftheancient Akrsephia,whichwasalwaysinthehandsoftheThebans.Onthe declivitybelowtheruins,isthechurchofHagiosOeorgios,-with numerousinscriptions,perhapsoccupyingthesiteofthetemple ofDionysosmentionedbyPausanias.Theruinsofthefortressbe longtodifferentepochs,andsomepartsarewellpreserved.This isespeciallythecaseontheW.side,wherethewallsarestill standingtoa heightof10ft.ormore.Theconstructionalmost throughoutshowstheeffortsecure to levelcourses,althoughlarge blockshavehereandtherebeenalsointroduced.Theprincipal wallis8ft.thick.TheN.sidehassufferedmost,asitliesnext tothevillage,hutheretheruinsofsmallerbuildingsarecompa rativelynumerous.OntheS.sideadoorway,hardlyft.wide 3 by 3ft.high,stillexists.Thegapsinthewallsdid notexistinan cienttimes.—ThepolygonalwallsonthesidenextLakeKopais datefromanearlierepoch. ThehillofAkrsephfaisthelastofalongchaincalledKHaria,which stretchesfromPtoontotheplainofLakeKopais.OnitsS.sideex pandstheAlhamanlineField,boundedontheS.bytheMegaleKiapha, onwhichliesoneofthemoreimportantKatavothrae(seep.187),the to Orchomenos.LAKEKOPAIS. 18.Route.187 KatdvothratouHagiouNikoldou,whichinsummerhasoftennovisible outlet.OftheKatavothreeattheS.E.angleofthelake,nearHt.Sphingion (p.165)themostremarkableisthegreatKatdvothraofKaneski. LakeKopais(-fjKroirat?; 310ft.)orKephisis,thoughthelargest lateinGreece,isalsotheshallowest,asitonlyconsistsofthewinter overflowofitsfeeders,thechiefofwhichistheKephisosorMav- roneri('blackwater').It isonlyonthemountainousE.sidethat thelakehasa definitelimit,ontheW.thelevelofthewater variesaccordingtotheseason.Insummerthelakeisalmostdried up,winter in (January)itcoversanareaofabout90sq.M.,some timesevenmore.Themoreelevatedpartsofthelakebedleft dryinsummerareextremelyfertile,andinsomecasesyielda doubleharvest; thelowerpartsarerankmeadows,onwhichlarge herdsofcattleandswinearepastured.Theevaporation,however, makestheairheavyandunwholesome.Thelakefindsitsoutlet tothesea insubterraneanriftsinMt.Ptoon(totheE.),similarto thosewhichoccurin oalcareousformationselsewhere,asintheAlps, Jura,etc.Twentyofsuchoutlets,called'Katavothrae'bythe modernGreeks,arecounted,varyinggreatlyinsize.Attemptswere madeinveryearlytimestowidenthem,inordertorenderthedis trictfertileandhealthybymeansofaregularsystemofdrainage; butwehavenoinformationhowfarthese,whichareascribedto theingenioustribeoftheMinyse(p.189),prospered.Aftersev eralineffectualattempts,thetaskofdrainingthelakehasbeen recentlyresumed,atfirstbyaFrenchoompany,afterwardsbya Britishcompany. Embankments,foundation-walls,andsimilarworksforthe draining ofthelake,datingfromaveryearlyperiod,haverecentlybeendiscov eredinthelakeitself.Threedifferentchannelsor canalshavebeen distinguished:onetotheN.,toreceivethewatersoftheKephiossand Melas(p.193);onerunningthroughthecentreofthelake;andone skirtingtheS.andE.banksofthelake,touchingtheKatavothreethere found(comp.p.186).ThetwolastcanalsunitenearthebayofKar- ditza,andthesinglecanalthusformedcontinuestoskirttheE.bankto theN.E.angleofthelakebeyondthebridgementionedonp.188,where itenterstheN.canalinthedirectionoftheKatavothraethere(p.188). Thetracesthe ofN.canalarethelargestandmostdistinct,consisting especiallymassive ofmasonrynearitsjunctionwiththeothers. Ascendingtheoutlierthe ofPtoonrangetotheN.W.ofKar- ditza,wereachthesaddleinV4nr-anLARYMNA. 18.Route.189 In summer,however,wecanadvanceseveralhundredpacesinto theinterior.Theoutletforthe water,half-concealedbymassesof rock,isnotquiteattheend.Thecoursesmasonry of onhothsides ofthecavern-wallsareascribedtoKrateaofChalkis,anancient miningengineerwholivedinthetimeofAlexandertheGreat,and madetheonlyhistoricallyvouchedforattempttodrainLakeKopa'is. The secondlargestkatavothra,calledVinid,which, however, hasanoutflowonlywhenthewaterishigh,isalsoontheedgeof theplain,abouti/jM.totheN.Otherkatavothraarementioned atpp.187,192. Ourpathnowleads pastaseriesofshafts,6-9ft.wideand13- 100ft.deep,whicharesupposedtobethebeginningsofsome colossalundertakingoftheMinyae(p.187),probablytheven- tilating-shaftsforasubterraneandraining-tunnel(liketheancient 'Emissarium'oftheAlbanLakenearRome)whichtheyhadin tendedtobuild.Theirmouthsarepartlyovergrownwithlentiska andothershrubs;andtheyareinvariousstatesof, preservation. Someofthemstillhavecarefullysmoothedwallswithfoot-holes fordescending; othershavefallenin. Beyondthelastshaftapathdescendstothe('^hr.)Kephaldri, anoutflowofLakeKopa'isformedbythekatavothra,anddryin summer.Arevma,coveredwithlentisksand,oleanders,stretches hencetothesea.Thepath runshighabovetherevma.Onan eminencetotherightweseeamediaevaltowerandtheruinsof upperLarymna.TheruinsoflowerLarymnaliebesidethehamlet ofKastri,whichliesonthecoaststraightinfrontofus.Onthe W.sideoftherockyhill,bywhichwedescend,asecondbut perennialoutflow(AncAoe,mayor\)fromLakeKopa'isgushesfrom thecliff,andformsa cleardeepbasin,thebrookissuingfrom whichdrivesseveralmillsonitsfarthercourse.In>/4nr.afterdeav- ingthe KephalariwereacharuinedByzantinechurch(Hagios Nikolaoa),crossbridge a offivearchesovertheKephisos,andcome tothelittlevillageofKaatri,whereaccommodationmaybeobtain edatthelittlebakaliorofoneoftheinhabitants. The freshgreenvalleyofKastri,withitsruinsateitherend, stillbearsitsancientnameintheshortenedformofLarmaea (Aotptxati,fromAapiipvvan).Inearlytimes,whenthepolitical centreofthelandlayatOrchomenosintheE.partthe ofKopa'ic plain,LarymnawasanemporiumforBoeotia(comp.p.194); but lateritlostallitsimportance. TheRuinsofLowerLarymna,immediatelybesidethevillage ofKastri,arebynomeansuniformincharacter,audprobablydate fromseveraldifferentperiods.Whiletheprincipalportionofthe enclosingwall,whichwasstrengthenedwithtowersandisstillin fairpreservation,isbuiltofwhiteandtawny-colouredhewnstones, a fragmentofwallontheN.E.hasnotowers,andisbuiltin thepolygonalstyle.Themostinterestingremainsarethoseinand 190 Route18. MARTINO. FromThebes about thelittlecrescent-shapedharbour,ontheN.sideofthevill age.Sunkenbuttresses,likethebasesofpillars,probablyusedin closingtheharbour-mouthwithchains,dividetheinnerharbour fromthesea.FleetsofanysizemusthaveanchoredofftheE.side ofthetown,wheretherearestilltracesofancientmoles.There aresomeancientfoundationsintheinteriorofthepeninsula. The RuinsofUpperLarymna,nowcalledBasaraki(i.e.'little market'),lieontheconicalhilloverlookingthenearestmilland theAnchor(p.189).Theydonotappeartobeofanygreatage; butthetrafficcarriedonhereinantiquityisvouchedforbythe deepruts,whichextendfor300pacestowardsthechurchofHagios Nikolaos(p.189).TheAcropolisproperconsistsoftwopor tions,theuppermostofwhichfacesthe N.,andthelowertheS.On thesidenexttherevmathisisadjoinedbyaflatopenspacelike amarket.Thewalls,ofwhichonlythefoundations(6ft.thick] arepreserved,wereentirelybuiltofregularsquaredstones.Some polygonalwallsbelowservedtosupportterraces. FromKastri-LarymnatoChalkis(p.203)byaroughpath,8-9hrs.The routepassesSkroponeri,where,accordingtotheopinionofengineers andofthenatives,thegreaterpartofthewaterthatdisappearsinthe MegaleKatavothrare-appearsinninesprings.Thenceweridealongthe coast,pasttheruinsofAnthedonandChalid(p.185),toChalkis. Those whodonotarrivetoolateatKastrishouldproceedto Martfno,l1^hr.fartheron.Thepathascendsthroughalongval ley,traversedbyamountain-torrent(generallydry)thatreaches theseatothe N.ofKastri.Neartheendofourjourneywepassa fewhills,withanancientruinedwallandseveralmediaevalchapels, calledPalaeoehori,or'oldvillage',bytheinhabitantsofMartmo, whobelievethattheirvillageformerlystoodonthisspot.Martino, situateduponaspurofMt.St.Elias,isaprosperousAlbanianvil lage(tolerableaccommodation),andtheseatofademarch.The inhabitants(1400)arealmostexclusivelyengagedincattle-rearing. In he tpleasantvalleyofMalesinatotheN.lie hr.)thehospitable Conventof HagiosGeorgios,conspicuousfromaconsiderabledistance,and thelittleruinedsea-port(i1/* ofhr.)Halae.Thencewemayridepast (lVzhr.)Cheliadou,nearthesupposedsiteofKorseia,toMonachou,the ancientKyrtone,andto(2hrs.)Dendra,the withruinsofHyeiios(41/*hrs. fromOrchomenos);wemayproceedtotheW.,thentotheS.W.via Loutri toTegyra(p.192). FeomMartinotoThermopylae,16hrs.—FromMartinoanunfinished 2l/2roadhrs.leadsweviapassProskynatherockytoAtalante,Acropolisca.of4Opus,hrs.tothethecapital}?.W.ofIntheaboutE. Locrians.Thisfortress,whichcommandstheentireplain,datesfrom theearliesttimes,andDeukalionandPyrrhaaresaidtohavedwelt hereaftertheydescendedfromParnassos.TheirdaughterProtogeneia, wifeofLokros,bore ZeusasonnamedOpus,whobecamethefounder ofthecity.InHomerAjax,thesonofOileus,istherulerofOpus. DuringthePersianWarstheLocrianswereatfirstonthesideofthe Greeks,butbeforethebattleSalamis of theyhadgoneovertothePer sians(p.172).SubsequentlytheyalliedthemselveswithSparta.In the warbetweentheRomansandPhilipV.ofMacedonthetownwastaken bytheformerinB.C.197,althoughtheAcropolisheldoutuntilPhi lips defeatatKynoskephalaj.Thewalls,whicharobuiltofsolidpo to Orchomenos.TOPOLIA. 18.Route.191 lygonalblocks,distinctlypresentthecharacteristicsofhighantiquity, andinmanyplacesstillstandft. 6high.TheyencircletheloftyAcro polis,whichfacestheS.E.,andthelowertown.Twogatesarestill recognizableintheAcropolis.ThefinelymintedcoinsoftheOpuntians testifytotheirartistictaste.—APrankishtowershowsthattheheightof Kokkinovrachos,asit isnowcalled,wasalsofortifiedinthemiddleages. ThefineviewfromitincludesthepeninsulaofOaidaronisiontheN.E., thetriple-peakedislandofAtalanteand(moreremote)theroadsteadofthe ancientKynos(seebelow)onthe N.,andalsoagreatpartofN.Euboea, beyondthe Euripos.—TheadjacentvillageontheroadtoAtalanteis calledKyparisio. The littletownofAtalante(1700inhab.)consistsoftwoparts,Ata lanteandMakedoniaorPella,notverydistinctlydividedfromeachother, andseemstooccupythesiteofanancienttown,thenameofwhich,how ever,isnotknown.Variousruins,inscriptionsonwells,andthelike recalltherulethe ofTurks.HighaboveMakedoniaaretheremainsof anancientaqueduct.ThenameofMakedoniaisduetoacolonyofMa cedonianswhomigratedhitherbetween1830and1840andweregranted variousprivileges.GoodtobaccoispreparedinAtalante.Fornight- quarterstravellersaredependentuponprivatehospitality.Thereisa pooreating-houseinthemainstreet,neartheprincipalchurch.The Skala,wherethesteamerplyingontheEuripostouches(p.216),isconnected withthetownbyacarriage-road,3'/^M.long. The roadfromAtalantetoThermopylaepasses(il/2 thehr.)spacious villageofLivanataes,thewellsofwhichareallslightlybrackish.About 74hr.totheS.W.isthesiteofKynos,theportOpus, of and(3/4hr. farther)Arkitsa.TheruinsoftheancientAlopearepassedinl8/4hr. more,then(2hrs.)thoseofDaphnus,nearHagiosKonstantinos,inadistrict overgrownwithmyrtles.Wenowpassnumerousmills,andreach(l1/*hr.) theruinsofThronion,thecapitaloftheEpiknemidianLocrians,whoder ivedtheirnamefromthemountain-chainofKnemis.Thronionwaspil lagedinB.C.431bytheAtheniangeneralKleopompos,whohadsailedup theEuriposwith30ships,andinB.C.353itwastakenbythePhocian Onomarchos,anditsinhabitantssoldintoslavery.Theruinsarenow calledPalaedkastro the ofPikraki. FromTroniontheroadproceedspastthelittlevillageofKaenotirio onthevergeofthemarshycoast-plain(l1/*M.totherightisAnteras, anothersmallvillage)andbeyondtwowarmspringsreacheshrs.) Molo,aprosperousvillagewith1150inhab.,wheregoodquartersforthe nightmaybeobtained.ItwasprobablytheportBoudonitza of (p.198) inthemiddleages,andreceiveditsnamefromtheoldmole,which,may, perhaps,beofveryancientdate.—Thedistancefromthispointtothe millatthe E.endofThermopylaeis2-21/2hrs.TheroadleadspastAlpenoit mentionedatp.201.TheancientNikaeamustalsohave beensomewhere inthisneighbourhood.Thermopylae,seep. 199. TheroutefromMartinoto(1%hr.)Top61iapassesthe(10ruin.) chapelofHagiosDemetriosandseveralotherfragmentsofancient buildings.After1hr.weregainsightofLakeKopa'is,andinanother V2hr.theroaddescendsandreachesthevillageofTopdlia(300 inhab.).Top61ia,theancientKopae,whichhas givennametothe lakefromtimeimmemorial,issituatedonapeninsula connected withthemainlandbyaflatisthmus,and wasinhabitedalsointhe middleages.Theancientbuildingshavethusalmostvanishedand onlyafewfragmentsofpolygonalwallsarenowtobe foundthe on N.sideofthetown,abovetheisthmus,andontheedgeoftheisth musitself.Numerousinscriptionshavebeenimmuredinthe variouschapels.ThelargenewchurchisdedicatedtoSt.Elias. 192 Route19. RADO. Feom TofoliatoSkmpou,5hrs.Theroadskirtsthe N.verge of;thelakeandpassesMountKoumitis,atthefootofwhich,heside anoldmill('Palfflomylos'),isakatavothra(p.187),generallydry insummer.Thevaryingheightofthewaterisindicatedbythe colouringoftherocks(comp.p.188).Fartheronrisesasteeprocky hillwiththreepeaks,middle theonecalledBazar&kiandthehighest Tourloyanni.Thereareancientwallsonboth.Theascentis re wardedbyanextensiveview. AlmosttheentirebasinofLakeKopaisliesbeforeus; andwecan distinctlymakeoutthevillageofBkripou,abovewhich,the ondeclivity ofAkontion,lietheruinsoftheancientOrchomenoi.TotheN,isthe hillofHagiosAthanasios,nearDendra,thesiteoftheancientHyettoi (p.190).TheviewalsoincludestheplainsofBoeotia,enclosedby Parnassos,Helicon,andKithatron,whiletotheE.,risingabovethelake andthevillagesofKojckinoandKarditza,isMt. Ploon. Near thechapelofHagiosQeorgios,whichwereachin25min. afterleavingthefootofthehill,liesomefarm-buildingsanda metpchi(HagiosDemetrios)belongingtotheAtticconventofMendfli (p.122).Anancienttemplealsostoodinthedistrict,whichis nownamedStroviki. BeyondthechapeltheroadturnstotheN.towardsthesummitof theGhlomtSstits.(3546,ft.)jthespursofwhichdescendtotheN. bankofthelake.In%hr.wecrossalowridge,ontheslopeof which,liesthe,hamletofBado.Theplainonthe othersideis plantedwithcottonandmaize.Skirtingtheedgeoftheplainfor aboutY2nr-wereachahill,surmountedalargeFrankish by tower, andbearingfragmentsof apolygonalwallastherelicsof thean cientTegyra.ThedirectroutehencetoSkripouthrouglithelake lake(seldompassable)takesl'/ihr.Thehousesandanoldchapel ofthe'IsodfatesTheot6kou'atthefootofthehillareusually includedunderthenameHagiaTriada.Tegyraisknownonlyas theseatof atempleandoracleofApollo,andasthesceneofthe victorywoninB.C.374byPelopidasandtheSacredBandof ThebansovertwicethenumberofSpartans,whohadadvanced fromLocris. Inthedistance,attheW.extremityoftheplain(2M.from Tegyra),awhitehillglistensbetweenthedarkerheights.Herelay thelittletownofAspltdon,thescantyremainsofwhich,consisting ofawallabout600pacesround,nowbearthenameofAvridkastro, or'CastleoftheHebrews'. We havestillnearly2'/j hrs.toridebeforereachingSkripou,as thepathhastomakeawidedetourontheW.bankin orderto avoidthemarshesoftheMelasandKephisos,whichhereflowinto thelake.Tracesofanembankmentarevisibleatvariouspoints (comp.p.187).In1hr.beyondAvrifikastrowepassthrougha kindofgully,ontheN.(left)sideofwhichagoodspringrises, andin25min.morewereachtheconvent-farmofTsamdli,be longingtoSkripoii.Adeeprockyravineabout*/2M.totheleftof ourroutegivesbirthtothespringofPitakas,oneofthechief ORCHOMENOS.19.Route.193 fsourceso thelittleriverofMelas,thedeepbedofwhichisfringed withreeds.Nearthemountainisasingularnaturalshaftorchasm. InaboutanhourafterleavingTsamaliwereachtheAkontion, onthesummitofwhichistheconspicuousAcropolisofOrchomenos. WethenpassthespringofAkidalia(p.194)andreachthevillage ofSkripou(seebelow). 19.FromLivadiatoOrchomenos. About 2V2hrs.; newroad; horsethereandback8dr.—FromThebes directtoOrchomenos,via SaliartosandPetra(p.164),about6Vibra.\ fromChaeroneatoOrchomenos,about3V2hrs.(comp.p.158).—Wemay proceedtoThermopylae(R.20)aftervisitingOrchomenos. Livadid,seep.162.—WeleaveLivadiabytheThebesroad (p.163),fromwhichthenewroadtoSkripousoondivergestothe left.In20min.thisroadbendstotheright(straightonistheroad toChaeroneaandLamia),andskirtstheS.baseofaspurofPar- nassos,calledThourion(p.162).Themarshybottomacrosswhich weridewasthesceneofabattleon15thMarch,1311,inwhich GautierdeBrienne,DukeofAthens(p.45),fightingwithhis knightsagainstthemutinousGatalonianmercenaries,lostbothhis kingdomandhislife.TheFrankishtowerononeof_the*N.emi nencesofThouriondatesfromaboutthesameperiod.At(1hr.)a chapelweturnoncemoretotheright,theroadstraightonleading toAtalante(p.191).Inthedistance,totheleft,theKionia(p.150) appearsbehindParnassos.AtthefootoftheAkontion,whichthe roadnowapproaches,liesthevillageArapochori. of Beyondthe embankmentofthenewrailwayfromThebestoLamiaandarail way-bridge,theroadturnssharptotheN. In lt/4hr.wereachtheKephisos,beyondwhichliesthevil lageofSkripou(tolerablequartersin amagazi)whichisadjoined ontheE.bythevillageofPetromagoula.About10 min.farther, oppositethesiteofancientOrchomenos,isthehospitableConvent ofthePanagia(Kot|XTjoisrrji8eoToxou,'EntombmentoftheVir gin1),foundedin874A.D.,wheretravellersarereceivedonspecial introductiononly.Theconventoccupiesthesiteofafamoustem pleoftheGraces(Charites), whereCharitesia, orcontestsin poetry, music,andthedrama,usedtobehelduntilaverylate period.Severalinscriptionsinthecourtinfrontoftheentrance tothe churchrefertothesecontests. The ruinsofOrchomenos,ontheextremeE.heightofAkon tion(modemDoudourvand),datefromthemythicalperiodwhen thetownwasthecentralpointoftheMinys.ThenameAkontion, meaninglance,probablyreferstothelongshapeof thehill. TheearliestOrchomenos,accordingtotheunanimoustestimonyof theancients,occupiedadifferentsite,probablyattheE.baseofthefuture Acropolis.Theperiodicinundationsofthelake,anineffectualattempt toregulatewhichhadbeenmadeintheincompletedshaftsmentionedat p.189,compelledremovaltoanewsite.IntheprehistoricperiodOrcho menosseemstohavesurpassedtheotherBoeotiantownsinimportance. Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 13 191 Route19. ORCHOMENOS. ThroughitspossessionofLarymna(p.189)itbecamea memberofthe Kalauriannavalleague(p.248).TheMinyancycleofmythsincludesthe storyoftheArgonauticExpedition,undertakenbyJason,adescendantof theroyalhouseofthebolides,inordertosecurethegoldenfleece,which wasthe conditionofhisobtainingthepaternalthrone.Inhistoricaltimes OrchomenosgavewaytoThebes,andtookthesecondplaceintheBoeo tianleague.Itwasseveraltimesdestroyed,notablybytheThebansin B.C. 308and346,butoneachoccasionitroseagainfromitsruins.It wasatOrchomenosthatSulladefeatedArchelaos,thegeneralofMithri- dates,inB.C.85.Judgingfromtheinscriptionsthatareextant,the placeseemsnottohavebeenentirelyuninhabitedduringthemiddleages. To theleft,shortlybeforetheconvent,liesthe"Treasuryof Mijtyas,nowcalledtoSrrjsoiupocpuXaxiov,avenerablerelicofthe earliestantiquity,andatthesametimeaproofthataveryancient cityoncestoodhere,perhapsinhabitedbya differentraoefrom thebuildersofOrchomenos.Pausaniasdescribesitasfollows: —'Thiswonderfulwork,whichissecondtonoothermonument eitherwithinorwithoutGreece,isbuiltinthefollowingmanner. Itisofstone, andhasa circularshape,andrunsintoanottoo sharp point(i.e.ithasaflatdome).Thetop-stone(i.e.thekeystone ofthedome, whichisnotconstructedofwedge-shapedstonesbut ofhorizontalcoursesgraduallydiminishingindiameter)imparts harmonytothewholebuilding'.Inanotherpassagethesametrav ellerascribestothisedificeahigherantiquitythantheTholosTombs ofMycenae,whichotherwiseareessentiallyofthesamecharacter; whileitsmeasurementscoincideexactlywiththoseoftheTreasury ofAtreus(p.259).Anopenpassage('Dromos'; nowcompletely ruined),16ft.wide,leadstothedoorway,whichisabout17l/jft. high,8:,/4ft.wideatthebottom,and8ft.wideatthetop.Thelintel consistsamassive of blockofgreyishbluemarble,19ft.long.The interiorofthedomedchamber,freedbySchliemannfromtherub bish,ofcenturies,hasadiameterofabout45ft.Thewallsare formedoflargeSquaresofmarbles,withholesforfasteningrosettes ofmetal.Inthemiddlestandsalargeplatform,latelyreconstruct ed,whichbelongstoacomparativelylateepochandprobablyform edabaseforseveralstatues.Totherightisadoor(68/4ft.high, 4-3!/2ft.wide)leadingtoasecondchamber,hewnintherockand supposedtobetheactualtomb.Thewallsandceilingswereadorned withslabs,nowontheground,withtastefulpatternsofrosettes andspirals.Theoutsideofthebuildingwasoriginallycoveredby a moundof earth.ThetombofHeslod,whosebonesweretrans ferredfromNaupaktostoOrchomenosaboutthebeginningofthe 5thcent.B.C.,wasnot,asIsusuallyassumed,inthistreasure- house,butprobablyin themarket-placeofthetown. Instead°f proceedingdirectlytotheruinedE.wallof the fortress,travellersshouldfirstvisittheN.baseofthehill,where, beyondtheconvent,inthemostsoutherlysourceoftheriverMelas (p.193)theancientAkidaliaorFountoftheGracesbeen hasre cognised.Stepsintherock leaddowntothespring,atandnear ORCHOMENOS.19.Route.195 whichthewomenofSkripouassembletowashtheir clothes.Above isthechapelofHagiosAnargyri. Wenowascendbyarough,path,atfirstonthesteepN.slope ofthehill,andthenmoretotheright,(8/4 tohr.)thetower-like summitofthe*Acropolis,whichisreachedbyaveryancientstair casecutintherock.Thelatterisabout3ft.wideatthefoot,but isbroaderabove,andconsistsofthreeflights,therlrst,of20steps, mountingtowardstheW.,thenthesecondwith25stepstowards theN., andthethird,with43steps,againtowardsW. theAbout themiddleofthelastflightwenoticeontheside-wall,andinthe stepsthemselves,severalholes,whichwereprobablyusedtosupport astrongdooroftimber. The Acropolis,whichhastheformofanirregularpentagon, orrather,ifthebrokenlineoftheE.sidebenottakenintoaccount, ofaroughsquare,isvery smallandreallyformslittlemorethan thestrongestpointofthefortifications.Nowallfragmentsofanysize arenowtobeseenexceptontheW.side,whereaslightdepression dividesthefortressfromtherestthe ofAkontion,andontheS. side.Thesearebuiltinregular coursesofsquaredstone,andreach a heightofabout23ft.Eachwallconsistsofastrongandroughly finishedexterior,andacarefullyjointedinterior,connectedwith eachotherbyanintermediatefilling-wallofslighterworkmanship. Aruinedwall,ontheAkontion,about80pacestotheW.ofthe Acropolis,andrunningtowardsitsS.edge,seemstohavebeenmeant todefendtheapproachonthatside,andmoreespeciallytoprotect thecisternsinthehollow.TheN.walloftheAcropolis,onthe sidenextthemarshesoftheMelas,isonlypartlytraceable.It surmountedaparticularlysteepprecipice,whichcoulddefyallat temptstoscaleit. TheAcropolisaffordsthebestpointforasurveyofthesiteof the townandthewholedistrictofancientOrchomenos. On theN.sideofLakeKopais, theof heightsAvriokastro(p.192), PyrgostitHagiasTriadas(p.192),andthepeninsulaofKopaearemost conspicuous;theE.,Ptoon, on Phoenikion,andSphingion; ontheS.,the hillofHaliartos(p.164)andPetra(p.164),andthefertileplainoflivadia asfarasMountGranitsafp.166).Neartheedgeoftheplainandthe marshyflats,in alinewithSkripou,arethevillagesofKaryd, Hagios Demetrios.andDegles,thelastontheriverofLivadia;betweenDegles andMt.GranitsaliesRachi.ParallelwiththeAkontionontheS.stretches amassiveoutlierofParnassos,boundedontheW.,betweenDavliaand Distomo,bytheriverPlatanid.AttheKbaselieHagiosVlasis(Panopeus, p.160),Kapraena(Chseronea,p.161),andBrdmagas.—Themountainsof Eubcea,Kithaeron,andHeliconarealsowellseen. AtthefootofthesteepAcropolisbegintheCityWalls,at firstonly35pacesapart,butgraduallyincreasingtheirdistance astheyfollowtheN.andS.edgesofthegentlyslopinghill,until theyreachtheabove-mentionedruinedcross-wallontheE.Theter ritorythusenclosedmaybecomparedtothedeltaofabroadstream. ThetownprobablyoriginallyextendedtotheE.beyondthepresent convent,soastoincludeboththetempleoftheGracesandthe 13• 196 Route19. A.BJE. treasuiyofMinyaswithinthewalls.Itscontractionmayhavebeen theresultofthedestructionatthehandsoftheThebansinB.C. 368and 346(seep.194).Thelowertownseemstohavebeenin habitedduringtheRomanperiod,ifweinterpretthe arightremains ofaRomanbathandaqueduct. Ass i generallythecasewiththelargerGreekfortresses,we cantraceinOrchomenosthecharacteristicbuildingstylesofdif ferentepochs.ThuswhiletheAcropolisinitspresentstatehardly goesfartherbackthanthetimeofAlexandertheGreat,thecity wallsareevidentlysomecenturiesolder.ThebeBtpreservedis theS.wall,whichwasprobablyalwaysthemoststronglybuilton accountoftheeasyslopeonthatside.Theaveragethicknessof thewallsisabout6Y2ft.; thepolygonalblocksoftheouterface arethroughoutconsiderablylargerthanthoseoftheinterior.The remainsof a gatemaybeseenintheE.wall;andtherearetraces ofposternsintheN.andS.walls,closetotheAcropolis.The sitesof severaltowersarealsorecognisable,whilewithinthetown- limits,especiallyintheupperpart,thefoundationsofnumerous buildingscanbeeasilymadeout. From SkeipoutoDrachmani,5hrs.—Thepathatfirstfollows theS.slopethe ofAkontion,onwhichliethevillagesofVeliand Bisbardi.FartheronitcrossestheKephisosandseveralofits affluents,andjoinsroad thefromLivadia(see20). R. Amountain-pathconnectsSkripouwiththehumblevillageofExarcho, about4hrs.totheN.Leavingthispathabouthalfwaywereachin 1-11/2hr.theveryancientruinedtownofAba,destroyedbythePersians, andalittletotheW.amodernvillage,alsocalledExarcho.Theruins, onthesummitofahighpyramidalhill,affordinga fineview,consist ofacirculartown-wall,andofacarefullyconstructedacropolis-wall,con centricwiththeother,roundthehighestpeak.Onaprojectinghillto theN.W.ofAbeearefragmentsoftheperibolosandotherfoundations oftheTemple0/theAbaeanApollo,whichcontainedanoracleonceheld inasgreatreputeasthatDelphi. of It,however,lostitsfameafterthe Persianwars. Anovalhill,20nun.fartheroninthesamedirection,isthesiteofthe ruinedHyampolil,oneoftheoldesttownsin Bceotia,which,thoughde stroyedbythePersians,enjoyedacertainimportanceinthe evenRoman period.Theruins,whichhithertohavegenerallybornethenameofthe vanishedvillageBogddna, of aretolerablyextensive. About IV2hr.farthertotheN.isthevillageofKalopddi,onthe roadfromLivadiato(U/4hr.)Atalante(p.191).Theneighbouring ruin isperhapsthatofKleonae,avillagebelongingtoHyampolis.Drachmani maybereachedhencein 3hrs.(carriage-road). 20. FromLivadiatoLamiaviaDrachmaniand Boudonitza.Thermopylae. FromLivadiatoDrachmani,road,6V2hrs.; thencetoBoudonitza, 5V2Lamiahrs.3l/2i fromhrs.Boudonitza—FromtoOrchomenosThermopylaeviaExarchohrs.,and(seethroughabove)thetopassDrachto mani,8V2hrs. Livadid,seep.162.—Wefollowtheroaddescribedonp.162, TITHORA. 20.Route.197 crossing theThouriohridgetoKapraena(p.161; l^hr.),without, however,actuallyenteringthatvillage.Wethencrossnumerous irrigatingcanalsandthelittlePlatania(p.160),oneofthechief tributariesoftheKephisos,andenter(l3/4hr.)thedefileofBelesi, betweenthelowerorBoeotianplainoftheKephisosandtheupper orPhocian-Locrianplain.Inancientdaystheravinewasnamedafter thestrongholdofParapot&mioi,totheN.E.oftheKhanofBelesi. A paththatdivergeshereleadsviaBiskeniandHagiaMarinaand throughthepicturesqueravineoftheKachalesto(23/«hrs.)VeUUa.This villageliesatthefootofahighcliffinawell-woodeddistrictwhere tobaccoissuccessfullygrown,andisbuiltinthemidstoftheruinsof "Tithora,whichareamongthemostpicturesqueinGreece.Tithoraor TithoveaisminutelydescribedbyPausanias, buthaslittleimportance beyondthatfact.Inthelowerpartofthemodernvillagerisesalofty toweroftwostories(withloop-holesbelowandwindowsabove),which formedtheN.W.angleoftheoldfortifications.Nearit isagate.The othertowers,notablyontheS.side,adjoiningthecliff,arealsostill standing.Thewalls,formedofimmensesquareblocksoutsideandsmaller stonesinside,are nearly10ft.thick.ThehillstotheS.ofthevillage commandagood viewoftheruinsandofthegorgeoitheKachales.We reachthemfromthePanagiaConvent,passingthearchesofaprimitive aqueduct. From VelitsatoDraehmani(seebelow),2 hrs.; toDavlia(p.160), 2>/vpTj'p.acJiTcei&o/xevoi 'Stranger,telltheSpartansthatwearelyinghere inobediencetotheircommands.1 Theinscriptionreferringtoallthecombatantsran: 'On thisspot fourthousand,Peloponnesians, Foughtagainstmorethanthreemillions/ From thishillwecantracewithour eyealongreachofthe Spercheios(themodernHell&da),hereborderedbyplane-trees.In thetimeofHerodotusthisriverenteredtheMalicGulfmuch farthertotheN.; anditspresenttributaries,theAsopos,Melas, andDryas,floweddirectlyinto thesea.ThemarshestotheN.of Thermopylaearetraversedbylongdrainage-canals,whichalso emptythemselvesintotheSpercheios.Beyondthemarshespasture- landsstretchasfarasMt.Othrys. Followingtheroad,betweenthemarshontherightandthe heightsontheleft,wenowleavethevalleyofThermopylaeand reachmin.)theMillofZestano,towhichwaterisbrought fromt'lemountainbymeansofa longaqueductsupportedby 202 Route20. BRIDGEOVALAMANNA.FromLivadid arches.Alittlebeforereachingthemill,wepassashallowwater course,overthereddishstonesofwhichflowsluke-warmmineral- water.ThisisdoubtlesstheancientPhoenix,whichobtainedits namefromitsreddishcolour,andformerlyflowedintotheAsopos (seebelow).Thisdistrictisalsosaidtohavecontainedthelittle townofAntheleanda TempleofDemeter,wheretheGreekAm- phictyonsassembledastheydidatDelphi(p.163). We crosstheSpercheios2/4M.fartheron bytheBridgeof Alamanna,namedaftertheadjoininggroupofhouses,amongwhich isakhan.Thebridgeisknownasthesceneofthe heroicresistance offeredbytheyoungAthanasiosDiakosandthebraveBishopof Salona,attheheadof700Greeks,toastrongTurkisharmyunder OmerVrionesandMehemedPasha,on5thMay,1821.Theleadersof theGreeksboth wereputtodeathbytheTurks. TheroutefromThermopylffiisjoinedattheBridgeofAlamanna byabridle-pathcomingfrom(43/4hrs.)Qravia(p.151)acrossthehillof Kallidromot(Saromata,p.199).About1 hr.totheS.W.,onadouble- peakedrockyhillbetweentheabove-mentionedpathandthenewroad leadingtotheS.fromLamia, totheleftofthepointwheretheKar- vounaria(theancientAsopos)entersthe'TrachinianPlain1,arethescanty ruinsofHerakleia.ThisancienttownandcastlewasfoundedinB.C.426 bytheinhabitantsofTrachis,accompaniedbyDoric(Spartansandothers) andMoliccolonists.ItwasdestroyedinB.C.371bytheThessaliansbut wasrebuiltbytheCEteeansandMalians.Thefirstencounterbetweenthe GreeksandMacedoniansintheLamianWar(p.203)tookplacehere,in consequenceofwhichtheMacedonians,underAntipater,withdrewto Lamia.HerakleiawastakeninB.C.191bytheRomanconsulM.Acilins Glabrio(p.200).Themodernnameofitssiteandalsooftherockyravine ofthestreamisSideropovtaor'irongate\ About1hr.farthertotheW.,ontheothersideoftheroad,liesthe hamletofKodvelo,ontheS.slopeofasteepflat-toppedhill,onwhich inearlyantiquitystoodthetownofTrachis.NumerouslegendsofHer culesareconnectedwiththisdistrict,amongothersthatofhisdeath onthefuneral-pilewhenceheascendedtoOlympos.Atthedateofthe PersianwarsTrachisruledtheneighbouringpartoftheplainandthe mountainsasfarasThermopylaeTheruinshavenotyetbeencarefully examined. The plainbeyondtheAlamannabridgeisoccupiedbytilled landandpasture,vineyards,andtobacco-plantations.Weridepast themouthoftheAsopos,descendingfromTrachis(seeabove),and pastthevillagesotOmerBeyandSaramsakliorSarmousakliQonion village'),andin2*/ahrs.afterleavingthebridgereach— Lamia.—XenodochiontonXenon(keptbySavvas),atthecorner ofthemainstreetandthePlatia,bedll/a-2dr.; thereisanotherXeno doghionofthesamenameinthePlatia.—Beetaui-antdesThermopyles, tolerable;andseveralCafis,alsointhePlatia. Lamia(Actu-fa),calledZitounibytheTurks,isabusylittle townwith6900inhab.,extendingalongtheslopesoftwospurs ofMountOthrys,undertheshadowofamedievalcastle.It isthe seatofthenomarchofPhocis-Phthiotis.Thestreetsarenowtoler ablyregular,althoughtheystillbeartracesoftheTurkishdomin ion,suchasthepaintingsonsomeof thehousesinthebazaarand afairlypreservedmosqueandminaret.Thegardens,also,ontrie to Lamia. LAMIA. 20.Route.203 N. sideofthetownareareminiscenceofthewell-knownpredilec tionoftheTurksforsuchenclosures; andtherearenumerous TurkishgravesonthelowhilltotheW.,ontheslopesofwhich areseveralmillsdrivenbythecopiouswaterofasinglestream. WiththeexceptionofSalona(p.151),Lamiaistheonlytownin Greeceinwhichcamelsarestillreared. The antiqueremainsarescantyanduninteresting.For whateverglamourtheHomericpoemsmayhavecastaboutthe countryroundtheMalicGulfasthehomeofAchillesandhis Myrmidons,thelaterinhabitantsofthedistrictappearassemi- barbarians.Lamfaischieflyknownfromtheunsuccessfulsiegeof AntipaterherebytheAtheniansandjEtoliansundertheAthenian LeosthenesinB.C.323.ItwasthelasteffortoftheGreeks,en couragedbythedeathofAlexanderthe Great,toshakeoffthe Macedonianyoke.Leostheneswaskilledduringthesiege; andhis successorAntiphilossufferedthedecisivedefeatatKrannon(p.221) inthefollowingyear.ThefactthattheentirearmyofAntipater wascoopedupherefora considerabletimespeaksforthesizeof thetown.Theenclosingwallprobablyextendedoverthelower heightsinfrontofthedepressionbetweenthetwomainhills.There areafewfragmentsofwalls,builtofregularsquaredstones,onthe S.sideoftheW.hill. The. E hilliscrownedbyamediaevalCitadel,builtonancient foundations.Permissiontovisititmustbeobtainedfromthe nomarch.AstheheightisdividedfromOthrys,ontheN.and N.E.,bya slightdepressiononly,thestrategicimportanceofthe fortresshaslongvanished.Asmallgarrisoniskeptheremerely onaccountofthepowder-magazineintheformerbarracks,built underKingOtho.Theviewiscelebrated. TotheN.isthelongchainofOthrys;totheE.,theN.andcentral portionsofEuboea,andtheMalicQulf(GulfofLamia),withtheadjoining partofthePlainoftheSpercheios,stretchingasfar,asThermopylae;to theS.theKnemidianMovntains,Kallidromos,and(Eta,behindwhichrise ParnastosandtheKiona.FartotheW.risesthemassiveTymphrestos, themodernVelouchi(7608ft.). About4hrs.totheN.ofLamia,ina pleasantnookbeneaththe crestofMountOthrys,whichformedtill1881theboundarybetween GreeceandTurkey,liesthehospitableconventofAntinitsa.Theroad, leadingtotheW.overthePhodrkaPass(p.230)hasbeenthemainartery oftrafficbetweenTbessalyandGreecepropersincethedawnofhistory'. TheviewhenceacrossthePharsalianplaintothedistantOlymposis magnificent. Between Lamfaand(9'/2M.)Stylfdathereisagoodroad,on whichadiligencepliesseveraltimesweeklyinconnectionwith thecoasting-steamermentionedatpp.204,216(3-4dr.each pers.,smallarticlesofluggagefree).Othervehiclesmayusually behireda insquareintheS.E.ofthetown; saddleandpack- horsesatthekhan,dr.). 3 TheroadrunsthroughMegalovrysis andAvlaki. 204 Route27. EUB(EA. Stylida(ZtoXU),asmalltownwith1800inhab.,inapretty butunhealthysituation, istheportfoTthewholedistrictof Phthiotis,andalsooneoftheoutletsfortheS.ofThessaly.At theharbourareaXenodochionwithakitchen,andthelargefactory ofGiannopoulos&Co.,inwhichvariousarticlesareproduced.At thefootoftheneighbouringhillofHagiosEliaslayPhalara,the ancientportofLamfa.Thesteamerslieabouttyahr.fromtheshore (seatinasmallboat1dr.; theboatmenareextortionate). About. 6M totheE.isAchindttheancientEchinostand9M.farther onisOardiki,withtheruinsoftheancienttownandcitadelofLarissaKre- masteftakeninB.C.302byDemetriosPoliorketes. 21. Eubcea. From AthenstoChalkis,seeR.17.—Theland-routeisnotsocon venientasthevoyagebyoneoftheGreekCoastingSteamersmentioned atp.xx.whichplyfromthePirseustoChalkisinabout13hrs.(fare 18dr.). Euboea,Eufioia(pron.Evvia),isthelargestisland(1460sq.M.)belonging tothemodernkingdomofGreece.Itlieslikeagreatbreakwatersonearthe E.coastofthemainland,thattheancientsbelievedithadbeenseparated fromitbyanearthquake.Alltheharboursontheislandaresituatedon itsW.coast;itsE.coastconsistsalmostentirelyofprecipitouscliffs, interruptedhereandtherebypracticablelanding-places,butpresenting noshelteredhaven.Themountains,composedmainlyofmicaceousand argillaceousslate,aregroupedinfourmasses: totheN.theHagiosElias orQaltzadeslifts.(4436ft.; theancientTelethrion),withthepeninsulaof Lithada;intheW.partoftheN.halfoftheislandtheKandiliMis. (3965ft.;theancientMakistos)\totheE.themountainsystemofDelphi (5725ft.;theancientDirphps);andintheS.theHagiosEliasOcha or Mountains(4830ft.). Among thethrongofpeoplesthatinhabitedEuboeaatthe beginning ofthehistoricalperiod,themostconspicuousweretheThessalianEllo- piansintheN.,theThracianAbanlesinthemiddle,andtheDryopians intheS. IoniansfromAtticaafterwardsamalgamatedwiththeAbantes and formedanewrace,whichacquiredthedominionoftheentireisland. TheirtwochieftownswereChalkisandEretria,whichdisputedfar manyyearsthepossessionofthe'LelantianDistrict1.Thispeoplewas powerfulandnumerousenoughtosendoutseveralcoloniestoMagna Grsecia,Sicily,andtheThracianChersonese(ChalkidikeorChalcidice). Thecontinuoushistoryoftheislandbegins,however,inB.C.506with thesubjugationofChalkisbytheAthenians,forthebarrennessofthe Atticsoilmadethepossessionofthefertileislandalmostamatteroflife anddeathtothepowerfulmaritimetradingcity.Thedisastrousissueof theSicilianexpeditionresultedinthelossofEuboeabytheAthenians, towardstheendofthePeloponnesianWar(B.C.411).Theinhabitants maintainedtheirindependence,butgenerallystoodbyAthensinthelater wars.ThebattleofChoeronea(p.161)decidedthefateofEubcea,as of therestGreece, of anditbecamesubjecttoMacedonia.Subsequently, afterseveralbattles,itwassubduedbytheRomans. The takingofConstantinoplein1204transferredtheEubceansea-ports totheVenetians,who,afterrepeatedwarswiththeFrankishprinces, finallymadethemselvesmastersofthewholeisland(1366).Atthisperiod EubceareceivedthenameofNegroponte(from'Evripo', 'Egripo1)which it.retaineduntilquiterecently.NexttoCrete,itwasthemostimportant VenetianstationintheLevant.TheTurkssucceededtheVenetiansin 1470aspossessorsoftheisland,andheldituntiltheProtocolofLondon (3rdFeb.,1S30)transferredittothenewkingdomofGreece. The mainattractionofEuboeaisitsfinescenery,particularlyinthe N.half,buttheS.partoftheislandalsocontainssomeinterestingruins. CHALKIS. 21.Route.205 a. Chalkis. XenodochiontonXenon,comfortablenightquarters; mealsatthe XenodochionOlympia,moderate,goodcooking.—Carriages(onlytwoin thetown),verydear.—OmnibustoThebes,seep.180.—Theofficeof the GreekSteamersisintheKastro. The ame nChalkisprobablymeans'ore'or'metal-town',though asyetnomineshavebeentracedintheneighbourhood.Possibly thereforethenamemaybederivedfromxoiXyrj(murex)andmay pointtoasettlementofPhoeniciansengagedinprocuringthepurple dyeofthisshell-fish.Thestrikinglyfavourablepositionofthetown atthenarrowestpartofthestrait,whereBoeotiaandthefertileis landapproacheachother,makestheearlyfoundationof asea-port extremelyprobable.Thetownwasfortifiedatanearlyperiod,but beyondanumberofsquaredstones,incorporatedinlateredifices, andtheremainsofabreakwater,therearenoancientrelicsextant. The presenttownofChalkis,with9900inhab.,isthefortified capitalofthenomarchyofEubcea,andcontainsseveralmodern churches,aTurkishmosque,andotherpublicbuildings.Seen fromadistance,especiallyfromthemainland,itpresentsacharm inglypicturesque appearance,butaneareracquaintancewiththe irregularinteriorisapttobedisappointing.Thetowncomprises twoquitedistinctparts: thediamond-shapedcitadelandthesub urbandistrict. In B.C.411Chalkiswasconnectedbyawoodenbridgewith the mainland,wheretheoldTurkishfortofKar&babaprobably representstheancientfortifiedhillofKanethos.TheEuriposat hispointwasoriginallywiderandquiteopentoshipping;but intheabove-mentionedyeartheEubceansfilleduppartofthe channelanderectedthefortifiedbridgeinordertopreventcom municationwithBoeotiabeingcutoffbytheshipsoftheAthen ians.Thestraitisdividedintotwoarmsbyasmall rockyisland; ashallowchannelbetweentheislandandthemainland,about85ft. wide; andanother,140ft.wide,throughwhicha strongcurrent flows,betweentheislandandEubosa.ThewideningoftheEuri pos hasrecentlybeenundertakenbyaBelgiancompany,inconse quenceofwhichthereisnobridgeatpresent.—Thepowerful currents,forwhichtheEuriposhasbeenfamousfromtimeim memorial,dependbothontheebbandflowofthetide,andupon thevaryingquantityofwaterbroughtbythestreamsemptyinginto it.TheyaremoreviolentinflowingfromN.toS.thanintheoppo sitedirectionandtheyareavoidedeventhe bysteamerwhenthey areattheirstrongest. Closeo t theE.endofthebridge,andmorethanhalf-surrounded bythesea,liestheKastro,thecitadelofChalkis,withmassivebat- tlemented.andturretedwallsdatingchieflyfromtheVenetianperiod, thoughhereandtheretheyhavebeenstrengthenedbytheTurks.The lionofSt.Mark,thewell-knowncognizanceofVenice,occursre peatedly.ThechurchoftheHagiaParaskeve,intheS.partofthe 206 Route21. CHALIUS. Isleof Kastro,oncethechiefchurchoftheVenetians,issaidtohave beenbuiltatthecloseoftheByzantineperiod.Thewidefosse, hewnoutof thesolidrock,isspannedbytwowoodenbridges,de fendedbyimposinggateways.TheN.gateliesattheendof the chiefstreetoftheKastro,whichisprolongedthencetothesuburban town;theS.gateleadstotheruinsoftheoldJewishquarterand toapartofthefortressnowusedas astate-prison.Theruined VenetianAqueduct,whichalsobeginsattheS.,passesthroughpart ofthesuburbis andthencecarriedacrosstheplainbyaseriesof arches,someofwhichare30ft.high.Itwasfedbysprings in the DelphMountains,about6hrs.distant(p.211). Thecharacterofthebusy.SuburbanTown(Tipotxaxeiov)ismuch moremodernthanthatoftheKastro.Inthemainstreetisalarge church,witha detachedbell-towerthatwasformerlyaTurkish minaret.NotfaroffaretheDemarchia,whereafewantiquesculp turesarepreserved,andthegreatsquare,stretchingtotheshores ofthegulf,andcontainingthecoffee-housesandtheshopsofthe fruitandfish-sellers.Vesselsanchoralongthebank.Thehouses ofthispartofthecityextendtotheE.upthe gentleslopeofthe Velibabas,crownedbya chapelofSt.EHas,formerlyaTurkish oratory(Tekes). Near thechapelofIlagiosStephanos,onthecoastroadtoVasi- likoandEretria,20min.totheS.ofChalkis,risesaspring,which mayperhapsbeidentifiedwiththeancientArethusa.Thisspring suppliesthegreaterpartofthewaternowusedinthetown,and waggonswiththewater-casksarealmost alwaystobemetonthe road.OnthedoubleVathrovouni(step-mountain),abovethisspring, areaPelasgicwall,pathsandstepsintherock,spacesforhouses, etc.,obviouslytheremainsofanearliertown. b.FromChalkistoKarystosviaEretria,Aliveri,andStoura. This excursionoccupiesthreedays,thenightsbeingspentatAliveri (11hrs.fromChalkis)andStoura(73/4hrs.fromAliveriand6hrs.from Karystos).—Avisit(43/4 tohrs.)Eretriaalonetakesoneday. The roadpassestheArethusa(seeabove),7min.beyondwhich isan iambicinscriptioncutontherock,announcingthatthe ByzantineProtospatharTheophylaktosmadetheroadalongthe coast.Fartheronweenterthe graduallyexpandingLalantaean Plain,amongthecottonplantationsandcorn-fieldsofwhichlies (2hrs.fromChalkis)thelargevillageofVasiliU,recognisableat a considerabledistancebyitswell-preservedVenetiantower.Ahill about'/ahr.totheleftiscrownedbythemediaevalcastleofPhyla. Beyond Vasilikfitheroadtraversesanundulatingagricultural districtandthenleadsacrossanuncultivatedmoor,passingseveral ancientwells,to(2y2hrs.)themillsofNea-Eretria,wherethere aresomeancientfragmentsofwallsandgraves,andancientwheel- ruts.About20min.fartheronisthenowunimportantEretria, generallycalledAletria,sometimesalsoNea-PsarafromthePsa Euboea. ERETRIA. 21.Route.207 liotes whosettledliereIn1821(comp.p.140).Themarsheswhich nowrenderthisdistrictunhealthymusthavebeendrainedbyca nalsinancientdays. Eretria wasthemostimportanttowninEubceanexttoChalkis,and likeitprobablyoweditsriseIonic to settlersfromAttica.TheEretrians, asiswellknown,joinedAthenians the insuccouringMiletoswhenthreaten edbythe PersiansinB.C.500,andonthisaccountdrew uponthemselves thewrathofDarius,whogavespecialorderstohisgeneralsDatisand ArtaphernestodestroyEretria.ThePersians,aftercapturingthetown bytreachery,plundereditandsetitonfire,andsentmanyofthein habitantstoSusaasslaves.Eretria,however,seemstohavebeensoon rebuilt;atalleventsitsinhabitantswerepresentwithsevenshipsat thesea-fightsofArtemisionandSalamis, andwithseveralhundred hoplitesatPlatsea.InB.C.411theEretrianscontributedgreatlytothe deliveranceofEubceafromthedominionofAthens; afterthedis astrousnavalengagementwhichtheAtheniansfoughtwiththeSpartans underAgesandridas,theydestroyedtheAthenianshipsthatsoughtrefuge inthesupposedfriendlyshelteroftheharbour.Eretriaafterwardsjoined thenewAtticnavalleagueinB.C. 378,andtookpartinthestruggle againsttheMacedonians.InB.C.198theRomansunderLuciusQuinctius stormedthetown,inwhichtheyfoundlittlegold,buta greatstoreof 'antique'worksofart,thelegacyofitspastgreatness.—Eretriawas thebirthplaceofthephilosopherMenddemos,apupilofPlato. TheruinsofEretriaarethemostconsiderablerelicsofanti quitythatEubceahastoshow.Ancientfoundationsmaybetraced atnumerousspotsamongthethreerowsofhousescomposingthe modemvillage.ThesiteoftheGymnasiumisindicatedmoreor less exactlybyablockofmarble,bearinganinscriptioninhonour ofaliberalcitizen.AbacchanalianMosaic,formedofsea-pebbles, datesfromtheRomanperiod.Inandbesidesmall theMuseum area numberofinscriptions,etc.About3min.fromthepresent villageinthedirectionoftheAcropolisliestheTheatre.Recent excavationsbytheAmericanSchool(p.36)havelaidbarethe entirestageandpartthe ofcircularorchestra.Theformerhasno logeion(p.53),butpossessesaproscenium,builtintheIonic style,witha stylobate11ft.belowthepavementofthestage. Tracesofaflightofstepshavebeenfoundinthelatter.Adis coveryofspecialinterestisthatofasubterraneanpassageofcare ful masonry,leadingfromthestagepropertothemiddleofthe orchestra,thuspermittingthesuddenappearanceordisappearance ofactorsatthatpoint.—TheAcropolis,whichisvisiblefroma considerabledistance,wasfortifiedmainlywithpolygonalwalls; regularcoursesofmasonryoccurinthetowersonly.OnitsN.verge isatower,39ft.longby33ft.broad,whichcommandsaviewof Olympos[3848ft.)ontheN.andacrossthestraittoOropos(p.181) ontheS.Twolongwalls,which,however,canonlybetracedinter mittently,runfromtheE.andW.edgesofthefortresstowardsthe levelgroundadjoiningtheshore.Onthebeachalso,atthepoint wherethemarket-boatslie,a isconnectedlinewall of; andthere areafewremainsextantofacross-walldividingthecitadelfrom thelowertown.Atolerablycoherentideaof thearrangementof theancienttownmaybe gatheredfromthesevariousremains. 208 RouteSI. ALIVERI. Isleof Shortly afterleavingEretria,wepasssomeancientgraveswiththe sarcophagifoundinthem; fartheronaresomehewnstones,and thena ruinedchapel,thealtarofwhichisthepedestalofan ancientstatue,withaninscription.AttheSkalaofthevillage ofVdtheia,whichlies'/snr-inland,is(2hrs.fromEretria)the largeKhanofKolorma,wherequartersmayhehadforthenight ifnecessary. Ontheplaincorn-fieldsalternatewithvineyardsandorchards. Onahill,'/s heyondKolonna,areafewremainsofancient buildings,partlyincorporatedinsome"mediaevalchapels,which indicatethesiteofanancienttown,commandingtheW.entrance oftheKakiSkalaV&theias.ThislaboriouspassskirtstheKotylaeon, arange,ofmountainscontinuingtheDelphsystem(p.211)south wardstothesea.BeyondtheKakiSkala,whichis5-6M.(2hrs.) long,weenterthefertileplainofAliveri.About1 hr.fromtheE. endoftheKakfSkalaandabout1/4hr.totherightoftheroadis theruined'ChapeloftheKid'('StoRiphi'),withsomefragmentsof ancientbuildings. Passingseveralother ruinswenextreachhr.)theprettyand high-lyingvillageofAliveri(1300inhab.),thechiefplacebetween ChalkisandKarystos.Travellerswhowishtopassthenighthere aredependentonthehospitalityofthewell-to-doinhabitants. Thereishardlya doubtthatAliverioccupiesthesiteofthean cientTamynae,wheretheAtheniangeneralPhokion,onhisex peditionagainst Eretriain B.C.350,wassurroundedbytheunited Eubceans,succeeded but throughthebraveryofhistroopsin effectinganhonourableretreat. Onaspurofthehillonwhichthevillagelies,onourleft as wedescendtotheSkala,isanancientsarcophagus,apparentlyin itsoriginalposition.TheSkalaAliveriou,'/ihr.fromthevillage, isprobablyonthesiteofPorthm6s,aferry-stationoftenmentioned bytheancients.AttheSkalatherearegenerallypassenger-boats toChalkisorLauriontobefound,buttheydonotstartunless theyhavetenpassengers(3-4dr.eachpers.).—AtallVenetian towerandaruinedcastleriseonthecoast1M.totheS.,butthere arenoancientremainsnearthem. We nowfollowthenewcarriageroadtoKoumi(p.211),to apointjust shortof(li/4hr.)thewretchedvillageofVelousia. Fartheron,wepassneararuinedmediaevalcastleandbelowthe villageofKoutoumoulO,(ontheleft).Ourroutenextskirtsthe edgeofamarshyvalley(oftenunderwater),totheS.E. ofwhich risesasteeprockyhill.Themediaevalruinswhichcrownthisheight occupythesiteoftheAcropolisoftheancientlittletownofDystos. Thevillageofthesamenameliesatthefootof thehill; andinits neighbourhoodaresomeancientwallsandtowers,alargerock- hewnsarcophagus,gates,andacistern. Ourfarthercourseleadspastaconsiderablenumberofruins Euboea. STODRA. 21.Route.209 amongwhichthosenearthevillageofZarka,totheleft,perhaps markthesiteoftheancientZdretra.Atthispointwecatchaglimpse totherightofadeepbayrunningfarintotheland,withtheislandof Kavaliani,perhapstheancientOlaukonnesos,atitsmouth.Before reaching(3hrs.)HarmyroptStamowepassaspring,wheretwoancient sarcophagiareusedaswater-troughs.Fromtheheighttowhichthe roadnowascendsweoverlooktheE.coastoftheislanda6far as thedreadedKavoDoro(p.210),whileontheW.weseetheBayof Stoura,inwhichliestheruggedandstragglingislandofStouronisi, theMgUtiaoftheancients.BeyondthevillageofMesochdriwereach apointcalledDilisi,markedbyancientandmodernruinsandby aspringofgoodwater.Thencetherouteleadsoverhills,through denies,andacrossasmallplainto(3'/2 hrs.)thevillageofStoma (800inhab.),situatedontheslopesadouble-peaked of hill.Op positethewhitechurchofthePanagiaisa coffee-house,where refreshmentsand,atapinch,night-quartersmaybehad.Thean cientStyra,atownoftheDryopians,whichisnamedalongwith EretriainthehistoryofthePersianwars,lay%M.fromhere,on thecoast,butitsfoundations,cannowhardlybedistinguished. AninterestingexcursionmaybemadefromStouratotheso-called 'DragonHouses1.Weclimbbyasteeppathto(Vzhr.)thedepression betweenthepeaksabovethevillage,andfollowatrackpastsomeancient quarries,whichstillcontainhalf-hewnblocks,unfinishedcolumns,per pendicularlycutwalls,andthelike.In15-20min.wereachthefoot of thehillofHagiosNikolaos,wherestandthreeancientbutwell-preserved stone-huts,knownastheDragonHouses('taspftiatouDr&kou').These huts,madeofmassiveslabsofstone,weremoreprobablysheltersfor thequarrymenthaneitherroyalpalacesorprimitivetemples.—The opportunityshouldnotbelostofclimbingtheneighbouringMt.Hagios Nikolaos,whichissurmountedbytheimposingFrankishcastleofLarmena, anda chapelofthesaint.ThetopaffordsafineviewoftheS.partof Euboea,withthegloomyOchaMts.,andoftheAtticcoastfromMarathon toCapeColonna. Stourais about5-6hrs.ridefromKarystos;buttheroute passesthroughnovillageortownwiththeexceptionofthehamlet ofKapsala,closetoStoura.Itrunspartlyalongmountain-slopes, partly overofhills, chainsandfinallyacrossaspaciousplain.About halfwayisthe'Bey'sSpring'(toup£r]Ppuon). ThemodemKarystos(1300inhab.),whereawretchedkhan offersaccommodation,isthecapitalofS.Euboea,and wasfounded aftertheWarofIndependence.Theancienttownofthesame namewassituatedontheslopeoftheAcropolis,morethanl/ahr. inland,ontheothersideoftheMegaloRevma,whichisspannedby astonebridge.ItwascompelledtosupplyauxiliariesbythePers ians,andonthataccountwasafterwardslaidundercontribution byThemistokles; inRomantimesitwasfamousforalight-green marble.ItssiteiscalledPalaeoch6ra(oldtown)andisoccupied bylemon-groves,ivy-wreathedmediaevalruins,andthemetropolitan churchoftheTransfiguration('MetamorphosistouSoteros).Thetop oftheAcropolis,whichissurroundedbyawall(1hr.fromtbe Baedeker,Greece.2ndEdit, 14 210 Route21. MT.OCHA. hieof sea),s i occupiedbymediaevalbuildingsofdifferentkinds.The viewincludesalargenumberofvillages,theancientquarriesnear thevillageofMyli(withunfinishedcolumn-shafts),andthepeak ofOcha. From KarystoswemaymaketheascentofMt.Ocha(4840ft.), generallynowcalledSt.Elias,aftera chapelofthatsaint,in 3'/2hrs.WeascendbyPalaeochoraandOrambids,thelatteralso situatedontheslopeoftheAcropolisandthenpastthearchesof amediaevalaqueductandseveralmills.Thelastpartoftheascent ispracticableforwalkersonly.Fromthechapelaclimbofafew minutesmore,oversmoothrocks,bringsustoaveryancientbuild ing,undertheshelterof amassiverock,whichUlrichs,withuni versalassent,regardsasthemostancientGreek(Dryopian)temple extant,probablya SanctuaryopHbraTblbia,orofZeusand Heratogether.ThisremarkablebuildingiscalledSpitiionDrakou bythepeasants,andisinfactconstructedofmassiveblocksand slabslikethe'dragonhouses'mentionedatp.209.Itlieswithits greatestaxisrunningfromE.toW.,closetotheN.sidethe ofhill, whichprotectsitinsomemeasurefromwindandweather.Itis 41ft.8in.longby 25ft.3in.broadoutsideand32ft.4in.long by16ft.3in.broadinside.Theperpendiculardoorway,6ft.10in. highand4ft.broad,andtwosmallwindowsarein themiddleof theS.wall.Thewallsinsideare7ft.9*/2in.high.Theroofis formedbysuccessiveprojectingcoursesofstone,bevelledoffin side; thesedonotmeetinthemiddleleave butahypaethralopen ing191/2ft.longand19^2incheswide.Astonebracket,project ingfromthemiddleoftheW.wallinside,probablysupportedthe imageofthegod.Asplendid*Viewisobtainedfromtherock risingabovethetempleontheN. About5hrs.totheN.E.ofKarystos,1hr.fromDramesi,isanother groupofDryopianstone-buildings,nowcalledArchampolia(vulgoChar- chambofis).About3hrs.fartheronisthepromontoryofKavoDoro,the ancientKaphareus.knownfromthelegendofNauplios,fatheroftheun fortunatePalamedes.HekindledherefalsebeaconstodecoytheGreek shipsreturningfromTroy,butashischiefenemiesUlyssesandAga memnonescaped,hethrewhimselfintothesea.Alighthousestandshere. AnotherremarkablerelicofantiquityistheHellenikon,aterrace withmassivesupportingwalls,about*/«M.fromthevillageofPlata- nistds,whichissituated3hrs.totheB.ofKarystos.Palaeo-Kattrionthe coast,2 hrs.farthertotheE.fisprobablythelittleportofQeraesttis,famous oritstempleofPoseidon. A market-boatleavesKarystosforLaurion(p.130;3Y2dr. eachpers.)severaltimesaweek. c. FromChalkistoEoumi. Bridle-path,5hrs.,including 1 theascentoftheDelph,18hrs.Night- quarterspoor.—FromKoumitoAliveri,9'/2hrs. Thepath,followingprettycloselythecoursethe ofVenetian aqueduct(p.206),leadstotheE.throughthefertilePlainof Ampelia.40min.Vromousa.At(20min.)Stoppe'ithepathbegins Euboea. DELPH. 21.Route.211 toascendgradually.Near(Y2hi.)theChapelofHagiosEliaswe reachthebedof astreamflowingtowardsVasililuS(p.206),the generalcourseofwhichwenowascend.About3hrs.afterleaving Chalkiswereachthesmall table-landof Pissonas,alittletothe rightofthevillageofthatname,withitsVenetiantower.Tower ingabovethelowerspursisthebarepyramidalpeakofthe Delph, theflanksofwhicharewoodedwithfir. The ascentoftheDelph(jAiXcpi),theancientitpmuc; 5725ft.)is madefromPissonas,passing(1hr.)Vovno,neartheSpringsofHagios Stephanos,and(1hr.)Steni,whichmayalsobe reachedbyadetouTvia Kambid.Hereweobtainaviewofanancientchannelforthebrookcut deepintherocksaboutV2M.distant.FromSteniwetake2^2hrs.more toreachthesummit,whenceMt.AthoscanbeseentotheN.inclear weather. The massivechaincalledXerovouni(orPlatanos),whichadjoins theDelphontheS.E.,isequallybarren.Beyond(11/4hr.)Poumo, onahilltotheS.ofthestream,welosesightthe ofaqueduct, whichascendstowardstheChapelofHagiosStephanos.Belowthe high-lyingvillageofMistroorMystrou(IY2hr-fartheron),near amill,isakhan,which,however,offersnoaccommodationexcept barewalls.AdjacentrisesaVenetiantower. We nowascendalongtheslopesoftheXerovouni,andinabout 1Y2nr.reachapointcommandingafineretrospectofthemoun tainsonthemainlandasfarasParnassosandHelicon.In8/4hr. moretheseacomesintosightontheE.,andalsotheE.coastof Euboeaasfarasthe forkedsummitofMt.Ocha.Numerousvil lagesalsocomeintoviewasweproceed.Afterpassingneatthe hamletofMonodris,withitsmediaevaltower,wereach(3'/4hrs.) Oagia,situatedinafertiledistrict.From(Yihr.)Neochori,which ourroutepasses,wemayascendtothe PalaedkastroofEpiskopi (Y2hr.),oneofthe principalruinsinEuboea,withbothancient andmediaevalwalls,thoughitsancientnameisnotknown.nr- Vrysi3;V2nr-Dyrevmata;!/4hr.Konistraes; Y2 Kakoliri.At (1hr.)Kastravoldweobtainafineviewoftwo-peakedOxylithos. Othervillagesfartheronlieasidefromtheroad.Onapleasantpla teau,hardly8/4hr.fartheron,lies— Koumi,whereweobtainaccommodationinoneofthecoffee houses.Thelittletowncontains4400inhab.andcarriesonthe cultureofthevine,andtradeextendingasfarastheS.ofRussia. Thenameisidentifiedwiththatthe ofancientKyme: butthat townseemsrathertohavestoodonCapeKoumi,3M.distant,on or thesiteoftheruinsadjoiningthechapelofHagiosGeorgios,M. off,nearthesecludedconventofHagiosSoter.—Afieldoflignite orbrowncoal,3M.totheN.W.ofKoumi,hasbeenworkedunderthe directionofGermanofficialssince1834, butwithoutanygreat result.Thefossilfloraofthemineralisinteresting. ApicturesqueroadleadsfromKoumitoAliveriin9 Y2hrs., passingnumerousvillages,severalofwhichpossessVenetiantowers. Abouthalfway,intheS.partthe ofplainofAvlondri,standsthe 14* 212 Route21. ACHMETAGA. Isleof ByzantinechurchofHagiaThekla,whereafrequentedfair(Pane- gyris)takenplaceeveryyear,lastingfromthe24thtothe 28th September.—Aliveri,seep.208. d. FromChalkistoXerochori.Artemision. From ChalkistoAchmitAg&,wherethenightisspent,goodroad, in 9hrs.; thencetoXerochori,9-10hrs.; thencetotheSkalaofOreous, lJ/4hr.—FromXerochoritoAchmetAgaviaKourbdtsi(Artemision), Bellenika,andAnna,about19hrs. TheroadleavesChalkisneartheVelibabas(p.206)andskirts a shallowhay,whereweobservenumerousremainsofancient tombs.TheHarpdgion,whenceZeuscarriedoffthebeautifulyouth Ganymedeisconjecturedtohavebeenbelowthecypressandmyrtle- surrroum'IvillageofVathondas.At(3Y2nrs-fromChalkis)Kastel- laesnumerousremains,apparentlyofanancientmarbletemple,have beenfoundnearthechurch.Afewminuteslaterwecrossthebed ofariver.About3M.totherightofourroad,andthesamedistance totheN.ofthevillageofPsachnd,liesthelargeVenetiancastleof Kastri.Thescenerynowbecomeswilder,andthecontinuousthough gradualascentoftheroadbeginstobefatiguing.Fromthecrest oftheridge,where(2%hrs.fromKastellses)acopiousspring rises,weenjoyalineretrospectoftheEuripos,withChalkisand themountainsopposite,andoftheDelph(p.211),whiletotheN. wesurveythemagnificentforestsofN.Eubcea,withtheislandsof SklathosandSk6pelosinthedistance. Our routenowrunsthroughfinemountainscenery, passing nearanancientcastle(perhapstheKlimalcaeoftheancients)after wardsrebuiltbytheVenetians,andthendescendingtothelittle conventofHaglosOeorgios.Wenexttraversealongvalley,clothed witha luxuriantgrowthofarbutusandmyrtleandwateredbya branchoftheancientBoudoros,andreach(2%hrs.)AchmetAgi, anextensivepropertybelongingtoMr.Noel,anEnglishman,who receivestravellersprovidedwithintroduction an withgreathospi tality.Hishandsomemansionoccupiesthehighestpointinthe village.Night-quartersmayalsobeobtainedinthevillage. Thenextpartour ofroute,passingthroughthefinemountain andforestsceneryofN.Eubcea,isverypicturesque.Weskirtthe E. baseoftheKandiliMts.,passingthevillageofSpathari,and thentraversethevalleyofPharakla(about3hrs.),whichiswatered bytheNeleHs,thesecondmainbranchoftheancientBoudoros. Fromthispointapathdivergestotheleftto(ll/4hr.)thelittletown ofLimne,ontheW.coastofEubcea,theportofexportforthemagnesite foundinthisdistrict.LimnestandsonthesiteoftheancientJBgaet which,likeotherplacesofthesamename,claimstohavehadapalace ofNeptuneinitsvicinity,andtohavegivennametothe.3£geanSea.— Steamers,seep.xix,xx. About 100pacestotheW.of(1hr.)Mandianikdarethefound ationsofanancientstronghold.Wepassthehigh-lyingvillageof Kokkinomiliaand5-6hrs.afterleavingMandianikareach— Euboea. XEROCHORI.21.Route.213 Xerochori(3000inhab.),thecapitaloftheN.partthe of island,ontheXeropotamos.Notwithstandingthattherearehere severallargechurchesandooffeehousesofabetterclass,strangers, aredependentprivate onhospitalityforalodging.Thefertileplain inwhichXerochoriliesisrichcom inandwine,andisenclosed bybeautifullywoodedmountains.Itformerlybelongedtothe ancientcityofHistiaea,whichwastakenbytheAtheniansunder PeriklesinB.0.466,andretainedundertheirdominionbythe plantingof acolonyintheneighbouringOreo's('Qpeo?).Though thenameofHistiaearemained,theplaceitselfseemstohavebeen depopulated.AfterthePeloponnesianWarHistisea-Oreosallied itselfwiththeSpartans,butsubsequentlyenteredtheAtticnaval league.Laterit fellsuccessivelyintothehandsoftheMacedonians andtheRomans. ThesiteofHistleamaybelookedforwithtolerablecertainty atthevillageofstoutOreoGs,1hr.totheW.ofXerochori.This villageliesatthefootofa partlyartificialmound,crownedwitha mediaevalcastle,inthewallswhich of ancientblockshavebeen immured.About'/jM.fartheronistheSkalaofOreous,where thesteamersoftheGreekcompaniescall(pp.xviii-xx).—Okeos layonthecoast,50min.totheW.ItsAcropolisstoodonthehill, adjoiningthetownthe onN.,nowcoveredwithbuBhesandthe remainsofaVenetio-Turkishfortress.Oppositetherockyisland withthechapelofthePanagiaNisidtissa,whichisabout50paces fromtheshoreandclosedthemouthoftheancientharbour,wasa secondcitadel,whichplayedanimportantpartthe insiegeofOreos bytheRomansandtheirally,AttalosII.ofPergamon. About33/4hrs.totheS.W.ofXerochdri,beyondVarvdra,whichcon tainsoneofthelargestplane-treesinGreece,andHagios,liesLipsos, theancientjEdepsda,situatedinthemidstofaverypicturesquedistrict. Thewarmsulphur-springshere(68°-158°)weremuchfrequentedinancient times,especiallyintheRomanperiod,andarenowagainusedformed icalbaths.—ThepromontoryofLithada,5hrs.farthertotheW.,on whichisavillageofthesamename,commandsa splendidviewofthe mainlandopposite. To theN.E.ofXerochorithespursofthefinelywoodedmoun tainsprojectfarintothecoast-plain.Theoakandpinewoodsnow giveplacetothewildolive,thebushyholm-oak,thelowlyarbutus, andvariousothershrubs.Thewideplateauisseamedwithlong ravines,whilehereandthere,inthemoreopenspaces,alonely millorshepherd'shutstandsnearabubblingfountainunderthe shadeof aspreadingplane-tree.Ourroutepassesthroughthevil lagesofAaminiandKourbdtsi(about2hrs.fromXerochori).From MaytillSeptemberthesardine-fisheryonthecoasthereattracts fishermenfromallquarters.Astripoflandalongthecoast,13ft. wide,isgrantedfreebylawtothefishermenforbuildingtheir huts,butthosewhorequiremorespacemustpayforit. AspotneararuinknownasstiGiorgi,aboutl/gM.from Kourbatsi,hasbeenidentifiedasthesiteoftheTempleofArtemis 214 Raute2/. VASILIKO. Proseoa('theeastward-lookingArtemis'),whichinancienttimes gavenametothiswholecoast-district.Here,atArtemision(Ar- temisium),thefirstnavalenconnterbetweentheGreeksandthe PersianstookplaceinJuly,B.C.480. ThePersianfleet,steeringoutoftheThermaicGulfandalongthe peninsulaofMagnesia,wasawaitedoffthecoastofArtemisionbythe GreeksquadronunderEurytiadesandThemistokles.Afterlonghesitation theGreekattackedthemainbodyofthePersiansjustastwilightbegan. Thelattersoughttosurroundtheirassailants,buttheGreeksformed quicklyin acircle,andcaptured30vessels.LyiomedesofAthenshad thehonourofcapturingthefirstPersianship.Luckalsowasontheside oftheGreeks; 200hostileshipswerewreckedbyastormwhileendeav ouringtosailroundEuboea,and53fresh Attictriremesreinforcedthe patrioticfleet.Anotherattackwasmade,againintheevening; andafter akeenandnotunsuccessfulfight,theGreeksreturnedtoArtemisionwith theCilicianships.Nextdaythe Persiansattackedatmidday.Theyad vancedinasemicircleinordertoshutintheGreeksagainstthecoast; butthisformationproducedablockinthecentrewherethe shipshad notroomtomovefreely.AgainstthispointtheGreeksdirectedtheir attack,ledbytheskilfulAthenians.Thebattlelastedtillnight-fall, andthoughitwasbynomeansadecisivevictory,still,asProf.Cnrtius says,'thepatrioticfleetreceiveditsbaptismofblood;itwasthepre ludetothe Hellenicnavalvictories'.AfterthebattletheGreekssteered fortheEuripos. Wemayextendourjourney,forthemoBtpartskirtingthe coast,toAgrioBotani(2hrs.fromKourbatsi),whichcommandsa viewofthesmallislands of Pontikonisia,(1hr.)Hellenikd,and (2hrs.)Vasilik6;andthenceviaPapp&desandAchldditothe prosperousvillageof(5hrs.)HagiaAnna,wherethereisaxeno- doehion,witha roomforstrangers.FromHagiaAnnawemaygo ontoPeleki,situatedatthemouthofthelittleriverBoudoros (p.212),withtheruinsoftheancienttownofKerinthos.Trav ellerswhohavecomethusfarmaynowstrikeinlandtoMantoudi andregaintheroutealreadydescribedat(43/4hrs.)AchmetAgo, (p.212). THESSALY.

The provinceofThessaly,withanarea4795 of sq.M.anda populationof311,200,whichhasbelongedtoGreecesince1881, isthemostfertileintheentirekingdom,althoughitstillcon tainsextensiveuncultivatedtracts.Thepresentgovernmentisact ivelyendeavouringtorestoretheprosperityofthelongneglected provincebymeansofcanalizationandotherworks.Thessalyisal mosttheonlyprovinceinGreeceinwhichlargeestatesarefound inthehandsofsingleowners.ItisboundedontheN.byOlympos (Elymbos,9754ft.)andtheCambounianMts.(Mis.ofChassia), whichstretchtothe~W.toAft.Lalemon;theW. onbythePindos Range(7665ft.); ontheE.byAft.Ossa(Kissavos,6398ft.; Mavro Vouni,3563ft.)andAft.Pelion(chiefsummitPlessidi,5308ft.); andontheS.bythe OthrysRange(5670ft.)andthelowchains thatlinkthelatterwithMt.Pelion.Alowandbynomeanscon tinuousrangeofhillsrunsfromto N.S.throughthecentreofthe provinceanddividesitintotwonearly co-extensiveplains.Larissa, thecapital,liestotheE.ofthisridge,whileKarditsaandTrikkala arethechiefplacesintheW.plain.Bothplainsaredrainedby thePeneios(themodernSalamvri&s),whichrisesonMountPin dos,entersThessalynearthemonasteriesofMeteora(p.228), penetratesthecentralrangeofhills,andforcesitswaythrough theValeofTempetotheGulfofSalonlki.Theonlyotheroutlet whichThessalyhastowardstheseaistheslightdepressionatthe PassofPilav-Tepe, whichunitesthedistrictofPliers(themodern Velestino)withthePagasaeanGulf(nowtheGulfofVolo).Asthere arenoharboursinthedeltaofthePeneios,thelatterroutehasalways beenthemainarteryoftrafficforthedistrict. The chiefplacesinThessalyarenoweasilyreachedbyrailway. Horsescost 7-10dr.aday.TheagogiatisherecalledKerattlt(KepocTC7)?). MastichaisknownasOiiso.

22. FromAthenstoVolo. Greek Steamers(pp.xix-xx)severaltimesweeklythroughtheEuripos toVolo,in38V2hrs.(fare33dr.601;provisionsextra). The Piraeus,seep.109.—ThesteamerskirtstheW.coast oftheAtticpeninsula,passesbetweentheuninhabitedOa'idaronisi andthemainland,andfourhoursafterstartingdoublesCapeCo- lonna(Sunion,p.132),whichiscrownedwiththecolumnsofthe templeofAthena.ItthensteersbetweenMakronisi(p.152)and themainlandandreachesC/2hr.)Laurion(p.130),whereashort haltjisusuallymade. Beyond LaurionthecourseofthesteamboatliesalmostdueN., inthegraduallynarrowingstraitseparatingAtticaontheleftfrom 216 Route22. GULFOFVOLO. FromAthens .theS endofEuboeaontheright.Inahout9'/2hrs.afteronrde parturefromthePiraeuswelie toattheSkalaofAliveri(p.208), situatedtheS. inpartofthegulfofEuboea.Chalkis(p.205)is reachedin3hrs.more. Thepassageofthesteamerin therapidandchangeablecurrent oftheEuripos,alittlefartheron,usuallyattractsanumberofin terestedon-lookers(comp.p.205).Thestateofthecurrentde cidesuponwhichsideofthebridgethesteamerlandsitspassengers. —ThencewesteampastthesheercliffsoftheKandiliMountains to(23/4hrs.)Limne(p.212). From Limnewesteerstraightacrossthechanneltothelanding- placefor(lt/2hr.)Ataldnte(p.191).FartheronwepasstheLicha- dianIslandsontheright,onebearinga conspicuouslighthouse, andsoonafterentertheMalicGulfandreach(4'/2hrs.)StyUda (p.204)theportofLamia,wherethenightisusuallyspent. Next morningthesteamerreturnstotheEuboeancoastand touchesat (3'/4hrs.)Oreous(p.213),atthefootofasquare-topped hillsurmountedbytheruinsofamedievalcitadel.Wethenagain headforthemainland,roundtheKavoStavro(theancientPosei- dion).traversethestrait(Boghazi)ofTrikeri,withthevillageof thatnameona heighttotheright,andentertheGulfofVolo, thePagasaeanGulfoftheancients.Here,aftersteaming2hrs. more,wetouchatNeaMinzela(until1863calledAmaliopolis),andin another'/jhr.atArmyrd,nearwhichtheruinsoftheancientHalos, nowknownasthePalaedkastroofKephalous,arevisibleonasteep mountainspur.FromArmyr6westeertowardstheN., passingthe KavoAnghistriandthesmallislandsinfrontofit,calledbythe ancientsDeukalionandPyrrha,andsoonapproachthelittletown ofVolo,situatedontheflatcoast.Thecircularelevationtothe right,withitsseawardfaceseamedwithquarries,bearstheruins ofDemetrias(p.217),andtheundulatinghillstotheleft,among whichappearthearchesofanaqueduct,surroundtheancientPa- gasae(p.218).Themassiveforest-oladmountainthattowersabove DemetriasandVoloisthefamousMountPelion(toIIt)Xiov), on whosehighestsummit, nowcalledPlessidi(5308ft.),sacrifices usedtobeofferedtoZeusAkraeos.Thevillagesonitsslopesare amongtheso-called'Twenty-fourVillages',whicharealldistin guishedforwealthandindependence,andwiththepartialexcep tionofthelargevillageofLechinia,areexclusivelyinhabitedhy Greeks.Ini1/^^.afterleavingArmyr6,thesteamerdropsanchor inthebusyharbourofVolo.Landing,1 dr.eachperson,luggage included. Volo.—Hotels.HoteldeFrance,oppositetheusuallanding-place ofthesteamers,bedlt/2-2dr.,withagoodrestaurant,andalargeselection ofphotographsofThessalianscenery(byStourneris);Hoteld'Angleterre, HoteldeParis,bothinthemainstreet,withsimilarcharges. Cafes.Thebettercafe'sareonthebeach,andmaybedistinguished bytheirseparateposition.SomeofthelargeroneshaveFrenchnews to Yolo. VOLO. 22.Route.217 papers.OtherforeignnewspapersmaybeseenintheCasino,towhich strangersmaybeintroducedbyamember. RailwayStation(RR.23,26),totheW.; carr.1-2dr. Boats,forexcursionsalongthecoast,maybehirednearthemole andthecafes; thechargeisabout3dr.perhr.,lessforlongexcursions. —Inleavingbysteamertravellersshouldletthe hotel-keeperorderthe boatmen,whothencallfortheluggageatthehotel(charge1^2dr.). BritishVice-Consul.A.C.B. A.Merlin,Esq. Volo (BoXosorBoiXos), withasteadilyincreasingandalmost exclusivelyGreekpopulationof11,000,isthechiefseaport of Thessaly,andissecondtoLarissaaloneinindustrialactivity.It isonlywithinthepresentcenturythatithasattainedanyim portance, formerlyconsistingmerelyofagroupof store-houses, taverns,andthelike,servingasthe'Skala',orlanding-place,for avillageofthesamename,%hr.inland.Thetownproperconsists ofa fewrowsofhouses,runningparallelwiththeshore.Atthe W.end,hesidethestation,isamonument,erectedontheopening oftherailwayin1884,consistingofareproductionoftheParthenos ofPhidias,withamedallionofKingGeorge.AsmallKcutro (TurkishQ6los)formerlystoodthis invicinity; withinitsformer limitsareharracks,amosque,andthedwellingsofthefewTurks whohaveremainedsinceVolopassedintothepossessionofGreece. ThechurchofHagiosTheodorosisbeinghuiltontheruinsofa Byzantinechurch.Theancientinscriptionsformerlybuiltintothe wallsofthefortarenowinthedemarchy.Thereareotherancient remainsatthechurchofHagiosNikolaos,attheE.endofthetown. Volo hassuccededtotheinheritanceofthreeancienttowns, thesitesofwhichcanbevisitedinthecourseoftwopleasant walks.DemetriasandIolkoslie totheE. (aroundof3-4hrs.)and PagasaetotheW.(thereand back2-3hrs.). ProceedingtotheE.fromVoloalongthecoast,wesoonreach thefootof acliff,risingperpendicularlyfromtheseatothe height of690ft.,calledAgoritzaorQorCtza,afteranowvanishedvillage. Wefirstascenda roundedspurtotheS.W.andsopassinabout Y2hr.tothemainhill,onwhicharesituatedtheruinsofDeme trias,town a foundedatthebeginningofthe3rdcent.B.C.by DemetriosPoliorketes,thesonofAntigonos. Thetown wasformedthe byunionofnumerousolderplaces(tfeleia, nearthepresentLechonia,Iolkos,Pagasae,etc.)andforalongtimewas theleadingmemberoftheMagnesianLeague,whichembracedthecountry betweenPelionandHalos(p.216),andkeptitselfindependentinameasure oftherestofThessaly.TheMacedoniankingsoftenresidedhere,attracted notonlybythestrengthofthetown(PhilipV.calledDemetrias,Chalkis, andCorinththethreefettersofGreece)butalsobyitssituationimme diatelyaboveoneofthemostbeautifulbaysofGreece,andclosetothe teeminggame-preserves,ravines,andwoodsofPelion.Afterthebattleof Kynoskephalse,foughtinB.C.196(p.224),theRomansenteredthetown; butitwassoonrestoredtoPhilipV.,anditremainedinMacedonian possessionuntilthebattleofPydnainB.C.169(p.219)deprivedPerseusof boththroneandliberty.DemetriasexistedtillfaronintheChristianera. ThefortificationsontheW.siderisefroma sharpridge of rock, runningalongthehill.Thewallsareregularlybuiltof 218 Boute22. PAGAS.fi. squaredstones.AttheN.E.anglestoodthesmallcitadel,within which,onthesiteofanolderedifice,achapelofthePanagfahas beenerected.Closebehinditliesanancientsquarecistern,in whichitisfabledthatthewaterrisesmiraculouslyduringthecele brationoftheEasterservice.Totherightandleftoftheen trancearetwoancientbottle-shapedwater-basinshewninthe rock,andsimilarbasinsarestilltobefonndonotherpartsofthe hill.ThetownproperlayontheE.partofthehill,withintheold fortifications; afewofitsstreets,foundation-walls,androck-cut tingsmaybemadeout. About0 2 min.totheN.ofthispoint,nearthevillageofAno- Volo,arockyspurofMt.Pelion,surmountedbyanEpiskopiChapel, withearlyByzantinepaintings,sculptures,andarchitecturalfrag ments,risessteeplyabovetheolive-cladplain.This,probably,is thesiteoftheancienttownof Iolkos,famousinthelegendsof JasonandMedeaandinothermyths.Inlatertimesitwasknown onlyforitstempleofArtemisIolkia. About*/ihr.totheS.W.ofVololietheruinsofPagans,which deriveditsnamefromthebrackishsprings (na^al,m^at)ris ingamongthequarriesandrocksonitsN.side.AlthoughPa gasseismentionedinthemythsofJason,itisprobablyonlyby laterinterpolation; itsimportanceisbettervouchedforbythe factthatitgavenametothePagasaeanGulf.Theinhabitantsof PagasaeweremostlyremovedtoDemetrias,onthefoundingofthe lattertown(p.217).UndertheRomans,however,thedeserted townrecoveredsomeofitsprosperityastheportofPherae(p.219). Theextensiveruinsresembleintheirstyleofbuildingthoseof Demetrias,withwhichtheyareprobablycontemporary(3rdcent. B.C.).Themassivewalls,strengthenedtowers, withascendthe rockyridgeabovethesprings,encirclethesummitofthehillso as toformanAcropolis,thendesoendtowardstheS.along the slopesofthehill,andturnE.towardsthesea,wheretheyend nearalighthouse.(Aboatmaybeorderedtomeetushere.)The maingate,ontheW.side,throughwhichtheroadtoPheraeis sued,isinfairpreservation.Amongtheruinswithinthetown, weobservethearchesof aRomanaqueduct,andthehollowin whichthetheatreformerlystood. NearthevillageofDimini,about1hr.totheW.ofVolo,anancient vaultedtombwasdiscoveredin1886,closelyresemblingthatofMenidi (p.120)insizeandarrangement.Theobjectsfound(ingold,bronze, paste,etc.)havebeenremovedtoAthena,butareofcomparativelysmall importance. 23. FromVolotoLarissa. .371/jM Railwayin2hrs.(fares12dr.40,10dr.601.).RailwayStation, seep.217.Viewstotheright. The railwaycrossesthesmallandwell-tilledplainofVolo,to theN.E.ofwhichrisethebroadflanksof Pelion,withtheirvillages. VELESTINO.23.Route.219 Beyond6 ( M.)Latomeion('quarry'),weenterthepassofPilav- Tepe,enclosedbylowhills; thepasstakesitsnamefromthepoint edtumulusatitshighestandnarrowestpoint.Wethendescend, passingseveraltumuli(commononalltheroadsofThessaly)and (right)ahillcrownedwitharuinedTurkishwatch-tower. 11. M Velestino,thejunctionoftherailwaytoTrikkala(E.25). Thelittletown(ca.2400inhab.),whichpossessesseveralcopious springsandaluxuriantgrowthoftrees,liestotheleftoftherailway. ItwasthehomeoftheGreekpoetandpatriotRhigas,whowasshot bytheTurksinMay,1798.Thechiefspring,theancientHyperia, risesinfrontofamosqueinthemidstoftrietown,andfallsInto alargebasin,partlycoveredwithmarbleslabs.Velestinooccupies thesiteoftheancientPherse,andeverywhere,inthestreetsand housesandinthecemetery,numerousfragmentsofmarbleattest theimportanceoftheancientcity. PheraeisthemythicseatKing of Admetos,whoseflocksApolloonce tended; anditsmostprosperousdayswereinthefirsthalfofthe4th cent.B.C.,moreespeciallyinthetimeoftheableandenergetictyrant Jason(371-370),whoreceivedlordship the fromhisfatherLykophron, andtransmittedittohisbrothers.PhilippII.ofMacedonmadehimself masterof thetowninB.C.352.TheancientAcropoliswassituatedon thesquare-toppedhillabovethepresentWallachianquarter.Acareful investigationenablesuatotracethecourseoftheancientwalls,ofwhich thebestpreservedportionliesneartheChurchofthePanagfa. The trainnowrunsthroughthemonotonousE.partofthe Thessalianplain,whichisboundedontheE.bytheMavroVouni unitingPelionwithOssa.Abrightstreakindicatesthepositionof thelargeLakeKarla,theBoibeisoftheancients.Amongthenu merousruinsroundthissheetofwaterarethoseofOlaphyraeto theS.E.,nearKaprsena,BoibetotheE.,nearKanalia,andAmyros totheN.W.,nearKastri.—TotheN.risesthepeakofMt.Ossa (p.221),andtotheleftofOssaisthemassiveOlympos(p.215), coveredwithsnownearlyalltheyearround.TotheW.stretch thebarrenhillsofcentralThessaly(p.215). The serratedhills,whichweseetotheleftof(19'/2M.)Oherli orYereli,belongedtotheancienttownofSkotussa; partofthem formsthefamousKynoskephalae(p.224).—224/2M.Kililer;27 M. Tsoulari;30'/2M.Topouzlar. .37lfaM Larissa.—TheRailwayStationliesabout1M.fromthe town(carr.2dr.).Theomnibus(401.),alwayscrowded,shouldbeavoided. Inns.XENODOOHfoNLaFrance,nearthebarracks,withabout10 roomsat2-2V2dr.perday,HotelOlympos(keptbyDshamis),inthe Platia,withgoodrestaurantopposite.—Cafes.Vamvaka'tinthePlatia isthebest; severalotherstotheN.ofthetown,nearthePeneios(see below). Horses ndCarriages a maybehiredatthelargekhansontheN.W. sidethe oftown,nearthebridgeoverthePeneios.TotheValeofTempe andback,horseabout10,carriage20-25dr.; carr.toTrikkalaabout50dr. A MilitaryBandplaysseveraltimesaweekinoneoftheprincipal squaresorbeyondthePeneiosbridge. L&rissa (Atfptoa,Aopioaa),inTurkishYenishehr('newtown', comp.p.221),a townwith13,600inhab.,theseatofnomarch a 220 Route23. LARISSA. fando anarchbishop,issituatedinthecentreofalargeandfruit fulplain,ontherighthankofthebroadandrapidSal&mvrias(the ancientPeneios),thechiefriverofthecountry,andisexposedin summertothecoolingwindsfromOlymposintheN.andOssain theN.E.ThePeneios,whichiswellstockedwithfish,changesits courseherefromE.toN.ThetownstillretainsamarkedOriental character,whichfindsitsmostobviousexternalexpressioninthe 27loftyminaretsofthemosques(ofwhich,however,onlyfourare nowinuse)andinthespaciousprivatehousesoftheinteriorofthe town,withtheirblankwallstowardsthestreet,andopencourtsand arcadeswithin.Thestreets,formerlyroughandnarrow,havebeen muchimprovedandthetowngenerallyismakingvisiblestridesin prosperityundertheGreekgovernment.Theenergeticcommercial Greekelementissteadilygrowing,whilethemajorityoftheTurkish familieshaveretiredtoSalonikiorAsiaMinor,thoughmostofthe landstillbelongstoTurkishowners.TherearedistinctTurkish, Jewish,and Greekquarters,which,however,overlaptosomeextent intheneighbourhoodoftrieBazaar(nowtheAgord). There arefewantiquarianremainsatLarissa.Theancient, andatonetimestrongly-fortifiedAcropolismayperhapsberecog nisedintheonlyeminencenearthesiteofthetown,viz.thehill tothe N.,onwhichrisestheMetropolitanChurch,withitsschool. TheTheatrewassituatedontheS.W.edgeofthehill,oppositethe largecavalrybarracksandimmediatelybelowasolitaryminaret; buttheonlyremainsofitareafewblocksofonetherowsofseats, withaninscriptionreferringtotheactors.Aconsiderablenumber ofinscriptionsandsomesculptureshavebeenbroughttogetherin theMuseumofthegrammar-school(keykeptbyamaster),butthe collectionisnotofgeneralinterest.ClosebyistheDidaskaleion, ornormalschoolforprimaryschoolteachers,openedin1891; it hasthreeclasseswith80studentsand5teachers. Thepromenadebeyondthebridgethe overPeneios,theN. inW. ofthetown,ismuchfrequentedonfineevenings.Onthissideof thebridgeisahandsomemosqueingoodpreservation. Ascapitalofthecountry,Larissahasalwaysplayedanimportantpart inthehistoryofThessaly.Thename,whichrepeatedlyoccursincon nectionwithPelasgiansettlements(e.g.atArgos,p.254),meanssimply'the city",andisthebestproofofLarissa'sdominatingimportanceinthemost remoteages.Inhistoricaltimes,thefateofthetown,andinpartthat ofthewholecountryalso,wasdirectedbythefamilyoftheAleuadae,whose founderAleuas,surnamedPyrrhos('redhead'),succeededwiththehelp oftheoracleatDelphiinmakinghimselfking.To himistracedthe divisionthe ofcountryintotheso-called'Tetradse1ofHestiaeotis(tothe W.andN.W.),Pelasgiotis(betweenthePagasseanGulfandOlympos), Thessaliotis(S.W.),andPMMotis(S.andS.E.).TheAleuadaecontinued tobethemostinfluentialfamilyinthewholecountry,rivalledonlyby thewealthySkopadseofKrannon(p.221),untiltheMacedonianperiod, andeven thentheyretainedtheirprominencewhenPhilipII.ofHacedon (4thcent.B.C.)replacedTetradre thewithTetrarchies,underMacedonian rulers.ForalongperiodtheprivilegeofsupplyingtheTagosorleading kingintimeofwar,belongedto thisfamily,buKinB.C.369thebrave KRANNON. 23.Route.221 and activeJasonofPherse(p.219)succeededinwinningthehonourfor himselfandhishouse.AfterthebattleofKynoskephalse(p.224.)Thes- salywasdeclaredautonomousbytheRomans,andwasformedintoa commonwealth(xoivo'v)withaStrategosatitshead,whoseemstohave hadhis seatLarissa. at Thetownflourishedtillfaroninourera; itis onlysincetheappearanceoftheTurksthatthenameofOldLarissahas beenappliedtoKrannon(seebelow).—ThefamousphysicianHippokrates (ca.B.C.460-870)livedanddiedatLarissa. About S^hrs.totheS.W.ofLarissalietheinsignificantruins ofKrannon.Halfway,'/2M.totherightoftheroad,isthevil lageofHassan-Tatdr,withnumerouswells;and3/iM.onthisside oftheruinsliesthelargehalf-TurkishvillageofHadjilari,where thehorsesmaybeleft. Nexto t Larissa,KbannonwasthemostimportanttowninThes- saly.Itwastheseatofthewealthyandpowerfulfamilyofthe SkopadseandwasnotedforthevictorywonhereinB.0.322byAn- tipater,whichbroughttheLamianWar(p.203)toanend.The ruins,calledbytheTurksPalaeo-Larissa(OldLarissa,incon trasttoYenishehr,p.219)andnowgenerallyknownasthePalae6- kastroofHadjilari,areveryinconsiderable.Thepositionofthe wallsisindicatedbyanearthenrampart runningroundthehill. Theupperpartseemstohaveconsistedofbricksofunflredclay ('Pise"'; comp.p.334),whichhavecrumbledawayinthecourseof time.Thewholeofthematerialofthebuildingwithinthewalls seemstohavebeenremoved,andallthatisnowtobeseenisa fewblocksofmarbleandshaftsofcolumnsnearthePanagfaChapel andtwowellsonthewayfromHadjilari.Aconsiderablenumber ofcoinshavebeenfoundamongtheruins.Thesitecommandsa goodviewovertheplainwithitsnumeroustumuli(p.219). From HadjilariviaAUfakatoZarkos,about4hrs. The 'ExcursiontotheValeopTempefromLarissatakes 12hrs.thereandback(horsesandcarriages,seep.219; supply ofprovisionsadvisable).Travellersareadvisedtodrive,sothatthey maybeabletoenjoywithoutfatiguethewalkthroughtheVale itself.—TheroadatfirstdescendsalongthecourseofthePeneios, butquitstheriverwhereitbendstotheW.Wethencrosstheplain inthedirectionofarangeoflowhills,amongwhich,alittleway totheleft,appearsthevillageofBakrina,withsomeancientruins, whichareperhapsthoseElatia. of In about2hrs.weapproachthe anoientquarrywhichyieldedthe 'marble'ofAtrax(morecorrectly describedasserpentinebreccia), andin1/%hr.morewepassa littletotherightofthestragglingvillageofMakrychori,andsoon aftersee(totheright)thetwovillagesofKisserli,situatedatthe footMount of Ossa(if)Oaca),thepyramidalsummitofwhich (Kissavos,6398ft.)seemsalmosttooverhangtheplain. A ride of4hrs.bringsustothevillageofBabd,atthemouth ofthedefileofTempe,wherewedismountatalargekhan(obliging 222 Route23. VALEOFTEMPE. landlord).Opposite,ontheothersideofthePeneios,liesthevil lageofBalamoutli,aboutV/%M.totheW.ofwhich,alsoonthe leftbankoftheriver,isthevillageofDereli.Bothofthese arechieflyinhabitedbyTurks.Onatriple-peakedhillnearDereli lietheruinsofthefortressofGonnos,commandingtheentrance ofthepass.TheValeofTempeisbestvisitedonfoot. The *ValeofTempe(rotT^puM),'thecuttings')isamountain- defileabout4'/2M.long,betweentheprecipitoussidesofMt.Ossa andOlympos,throughwhichthePeneiosrushestotheGulfofSalo- niki.Fromtheearliesttimesthevalehasbeenfamedforitsbeauty; anditsrenownisamplyjustifiedbythepicturesquerockywallson eitherside,thepeculiargreyhueoftheimpetuousstream,along sideofwhichthereishardlyroomfortherock-cutpath,theluxu riantgrowthofplane-treeandwillow,wildfig-treeandagnus castus,theclingingtendrilsofivy,wild-grape,andclematis stretchingfaruptherocks,andthelovelyviewofthe seaattheend. Hereandtheretherockywallsretiresoastoenclosebeautiful littleglades,asforexamplejustattheentrancenearBabl,whence weseethevillageofAmbelakia,formerlynotedforcotton-spinning anddyeing,perchedona terracetotheright.Inoneofthese gladesthere stoodanaltartoApollo,towhichasolemnembassy madeapilgrimagefromDelphieveryeightyears; forhere,itwas said,theGodfoundexpiationfortheslaughterofthePython(p.152). About. 3M fromBaba,wepassthecopiousspringofKryolo- gon.The,[mediaevalKastrotesOraefis,Y2M.fartheron,builtpartly onloftyrocks,commandsatonce thepassofTempeandtheen trancetoa roughmountain-gorgewhichopenshere; probablya strongholdstoodhereinancienttimesalso.Alittlefartheron, nearthesmallguard-house,the followingancientinscriptionis cutontherockimmediatelybesideroad the: 'L.OassiusLonginus procos.Tempemunivit'.Theinscription(whichreferstoCesar's legate)hasbeoomealmostillegible,andisdifficulttofindwithout aguidefromBaba.l/i Inhr.wereachthespringofBarlaam, wherewemayrestandtakeluncheon(smalltavernbesidethe spring).About20min.fartheronareanotherguard-houseand thenewPeneiosBridge. Ase w emergefromthepassweenjoya lovely'Viewofthe seaandtheGulfofSaloniki.AtthemouthofthePeneioslies thevillageofLaspochori,about1hr.fromthebridge.Inanti quitysacrificeswerehereofferedtoPoseidonPetraeos'Rock- (the God'),andgamesheldinhishonour;fortohimwasascribed theforoibleopeningofthegorgewhichaffordedanoutlettothe waterspreviouslydammedupwithintheplain. TravellersboundhenceforSalonikiareadvisedtorideto(about 3brs.)Tzageri,a smallport,whencethereisregularcommunicationto Salonikibysea.—ThelandroutetoSaloniki(2'/2days)issomewhat monotonous,andthenight-quartersarebad, nottomentionthatMt. Olympospresentsamuchmoremajesticappearanceasseenfromthesea. ATRAX. 24.Route.223 WeareferriedacrosstheriverattheentranceoftheValeofTempe andleaveGreeksoilatthefrontier-stationofKarali-Derveni.In2^2hrs. wereachtheTurkishvillagePlatamdna, of whereperhapswemayplace thesiteoftheancientHerakleia.—Onthesecondwe dayridepast(2hrs.) LUochori,(1hr.)Maldthria(neartheveryinsignificantruinsofDion), KateiHniyGreatandLittleApdni,andKitros,withthebattle-fieldofPydna, where-flSmiliusPaulusdefeatedPerseusinB.C.169,to(4hrs.)Elmthero- ehfoi.—OnthethirddaywepassLibanovo,andcrosstheriversVistriiza (theancientHaliakmon,inTurkishIndje'-Karasia)andVarddri(theancient Ludtas)andnumerousothersmallstreams,andreach(ca.7hrs.)Saloniki. —Saloniki(Hdteld*Orient),theancientThexsalonica,with70,000inhab. andanactivetrade,isnownexttoConstantinoplethemost,important townofTurkeyinEurope.Itoccupiesafinesiteonthenorthernmost bayoftheGulfofSaloniki.Itcontainsnumerousmosques,andinte restingarchitecturalremainsofantiquity,includingRomantriumphal arches,aCorinthiancolonnade,andtheRotunda,abuildingresembling thePantheonatRome,nowusedasamosque.Thecitadelandthewalls, partlybuiltbytheVenetians,aremuchdilapidated. FromSalonikitoNish(282M.)RailwayinI6V2hrs.,joiningatNish thegreatOrientallinefromViennaviaBudapestandBelgradetoCon stantinople:fromNishtoVienna21hrs.;fromSalonikitoVienna38hrs.; fares140fr.85,106fr.45c 24. FromLarissatoTrikkala. 37. M Carriagein8hrs.(about50dr.); somepartsoftheroadare sobadthatthetravellersmusttraversethemonfoot.Riderstaketwo days,passingthenightatZarTcot.—TherailwayviaVelestinoispreferable. Larissa,seep.219.—ApoorroadleadstotheW.through aflatundulatingcountrytowardsthelowrangeofhillswhichin tersectsThessalyanddividestheE.fromthe"W.plain(comp. p.215).At[3^2hrs.)KoutzdcherotheroadcrossesthePeneios(Sa- lamvrias)andentersthedepression,knownastheKalamdki,which affordsapassagetotheriver,betweenthehillsontheN.andS. In2his.wereachZarkos,situatedatthefootoflong a rocky spur ontheE.aideofalateralvalleystretchingtowardstheN.W.There areseveralkhanshere,butthosewhohaveprovidedthemselves withthenecessaryintroductionwill findbetteraccommodationat thehouseofChristakiEffendi.Zarkos,whichoccupiesthesiteof theancientPhaistos,istheseatofthebishopofGardiki(seep.224). Another roadremainsbeyondKoutzdcherotheright onbankofthePe neiosandapproachesthe(1hr.)villageofAtifaka,atthefootoftheDob- roudshiSills.Fartheronaretheconspicuousfortificationsnowknown asthePalaedkastroofAlifaka,whichdateoriginallyfromantiquity,but wererepairedinthemiddleages.Thesebelongedtotheancienttown ofAtrax.InthelastcenturiesB.C.Atraxisoftenmentionedasastra tegicpointofconsiderableimportance;anditwasknowntotheRomans forakindofvariegatedmarble,quarriedintheneighbourhood(p.221). Itschiefgate,stilldistinctlyrecognisable,wassituatedjustwherethe road,hererunningclosetotherightbankoftheriver,touchesthefoot ofthehill.Thefragmentsof wallflankingitaregood specimensofthe polygonalstyleofbuilding.Thetown,encircledbya wallwhichwas connectedwiththecitadelandmaystillbeeasilytraced,layonalow terrace,undertheE.slopeoftheruggedhill.—In1hr.morewecross thePeneiosbyabridge,1hr.totheS.ofZarkos(seeabove). To theS.W.ofthisbridge,beyondtheEnipeus,atributaryofthe Peneios,risetwoisolatedrockyheightscrownedwithhalfantique,half mediaevalfortifications,onthe roadtoKarditsa(p.226).Thattothe 224 Route25. SKOTUSSA. FromVolo E.,besidethevillageofVlochoandneartheW.aideoftheDobroudshi Hills,isprobablythePeiresiaeoftheancients;thattotheW.,nearKor- tiki,isprobablytheancientLimnacon. Beyond Zarkosthecarriage-road,leadingthroughmarshyground, isrerybadforaconsiderabledistance.Beforewereach(i1/*hr.) MegaloTsdti,wepassakhan.NearthevillageofKlokotd,which liesthe toleftoftheroadfartheron,risesanisolatedheight,with anancientenclosingwall,repairedinthemiddleages,andprob ablyarelicoftheancientPharkadon.TotheW.andS.W.appears thejaggedPindosrange.Onarocktotheright,atthenarrowest partoftheroad(whichissometimesfloodedwithmarshywater),is acarvingofsort a ofbill-hook.Theinhabitantsregardthisas a sealandhavecalledtheplaceBoulla;butprobablyitismerely thewhimofanancientworkman.Theweavingofrushes,which arecutwitha bill-hook,intomatsandotherarticlesformsacon siderableindustryinthisdistrict. About3/4hr.fartherwepassontherightthehillofPalae6- Oardiki,thePelinnseonofStrabo,withwallsonitsS.W.flank andalongthetop.ThenamePalaeo-Gardikireferstoa former Byzantinetown,ofwhichtheonlytracesnowextantaretheruins ofthechurchoftheHagiaParaskeve"onthetopofhill,andthetitle ofthebishop,whoresidesatZarkos. The ummit s (20min.)affordsthebestsurveyofthecourseofthe walls,partsofwhichstillrisetoaconsiderableheight,withnumerous squaretowersandseveralgates.Wealsoenjoyanextensivesurvey over theW.Thessalianplain,boundedbytheDobroudshiHillsontheand E. the ridgeofPindosontheW.andS. OntheK.sideofthehillisa crater-likegorge,surrounded withrocks. rugged nFarthero wepassatumulus(totheleft)andKritzini(tothe right),withthechurchofHagiosTaxiarch.es,thelattercontaining a fewantiquitiesfromPelinnseon.Theroutenextleads past Bouchovitsi(5hrs.fromMegaloTsoti)to(1hr.)Trikkala(p.227), whichisvisiblefromalmosteverypartoftheplain. 25.FromVolotoTrikkalaandKalabaka, Railwayto(87M.)Trikkalain51/2hrs.(fares28dr.15,23dr.551.); thenceto(14M.)Kalabakain3/4hr. (fares4dr.70,3dr.901.). FromVoloto(11M.)Velestino,pp.218,219.ThelinetoTrik kalapenetratesbyseveralcuttingsthechainofhillsseparatingthe plainofVelestino(on theN.)fromtheplainofArmyrd(onthe S.;p.216),theterritoryofthePhthioticThebes.StationsPer- souphli,MoaU(viewofthePindos-chain),OrmanMagodla. Ona grassyhill,5M.totheN.ofOrman-Magoula,lietheextensive ruinsoftheancientfortifiedtownofSkotuasa. Aseriesoflowhillsrunshencetoachainofsteep,graycrags,now knownasKaraddgorMavroVouni('blackmountain'),butcalledinan cienttimesKynoakephalae('Dog'sHeads').Inthisneighbourhood,ona sitewhichitisimpossiblemoreexactlytoidentify,wasfoughtinB.C.197 thedecisivebattlebetwixttheRomansunderTitusQainctiusFlaminintu, andthechivalrousKingPhilipV.ofMacedon.Thelatterhadassembled . entlreforcesofhiskingdom,andhadadvancedthroughthevale otTempetomeethisopponents,whowereapproachingfromtheS.Both tb Trikknla. PHERSALA.25.Route.225 armies wereabout26,000strong,buttheKomancavalryhadreceived powerfulreinforcementsfrom^tolia.Foralongtimethebattleremain eddoubtful,butatlasttheattackoftheRomanelephants,aidedbya suddenmanoeuvreoftherightwing,broketheMacedonianphalanx,and decidedthevictoryfortheRomans.Nearlyhalf ofMacedonians the were killedor captured. The trainnowapproachestherightbankofthedeepbedofthe Tshianarli,theancientEnipeus.Totheleft,ontheoppositebank, totheW.ofAlt.Karadja-Ahmet,liesthefamousbattle-fieldof Pharsalos(comp.p.226).Beyondstat.Lazarbo&gawecrosstheriver. 42. M Phersala.—TheRailwatStationliesnearlyM.to 2 the N.ofthetown.Uight-quartersmaybeobtainedinaXenedochitm;meals atacook-shop. PMrsala,theancientPhdrsalos,a stragglinglittletownwith about2500inhab.(onehalfwhom of areTurkish),liesunderthe BhadowofasteepAcropolis,ontherightbankofthe generally dry AtkliorPhertalitis,andattheN.footof aspuroftheChassididri Mts.(3770ft.).Thetownisnowundergoingacompleteprocess ofrebuilding.TheE.quarterofthetown(Varousi-Maehalds),the GreekquarterundertheTurks,containsthemetropolitanchurch andthearchbishop'sresidence.Theformerimportanceofthetown asacommercialcentreforW.Thessalyhasvanished.Karditsa (p.226)hastakenitsplace.Afairlastingforaweekcontinues tobeheldeveryAugust, andstillattractsacertainamountof traffic; buttheinhabitantsareforthemostpartnowengagedIn thepreparationoftheexcellenttobaccowhichgrowsintheneigh bourhood. The travellershouldnotfailtoascendthetwo-peakedhill,on which,360ft.abovethetown,liethe extensiveruinsofthean cientCitadei,partlyrestoredinthemiddleages.Theascentis bestmadefromtheW.side,andtakes(thereandback)2hrs. Theancientwalls,whichstretchfromthesummitofthehillon theE.andW.sidesdowntothetown,belongto atleastthreedif ferentperiods,ofwhichtheearliestmaydateas farbackastheso- calledMycenianepoch.Inthedepressionbetweenthepeaksare situatedtwogates.NeartheS.gateisacircularCistern,construct edof largeblocksofstone,andwideningfromthetopdownwards; andthe onrockyslopetotheE.wecanstilldistinguishtheartificial channels,bywhichtherain-waterwasconductedtothisreservoir. TheviewembracestheentireW.Thessalianplainasfarasthe rocksofMeteora(p.228)ontheN.W.,Olymposandtheintervening hillsontheW.,OssaontheN.E.,MavroVouniandPeliononthe E.,andthesummitsoftheChassidiariMts.ontheS. Leake hassuggestedthatthecasileofPharsalosistobeidentified withtheHomericPhthia,thehomeofAchilles.Inhistoricaltimes I'harsalosfirstappearsafterthePersianwars,andwasthenastrongand wealthycitywithastrictlyoligarchicconstitution.InB.C.455itwas vainlybesiegedbytheAtheniangeneralMyronides; butafterwardsit. wasoneofthefewThessaliantownsthatespousedtheAtheniancause. InlatertimesPharsaloswascapturedbyJasonofPherte(p.219),Acilius Glabrio(p.200),andonseveralotheroccasions. Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 15 226 Route25. KARDITSA. fromVolo The nameofPharsalosis,however,bestknownfromthedecisive battlebetweenCsesarandPompey,whichtookplaceon9thAugust,B.C.48. Thebattle-fieldisplacedwiththegreatestprobabilityintheplain(4i/sM. long,2M.broad)totheN.ofthetown,betweenthehillofKrindir(near thepresentstation),ontheW.,andMt.Karadja-Ahmet(1110ft.)inan angleoftheEnipeus,ontheE.Caesarwith8legions(22,000footand 1000horse)occupiedapositionnearPharsalosandseemstohavemoved forwardinthedirectionofthepresentrailway-station.Theroadleading fromthelattertothetowncrossesthedeep,embankedbedoftheEnipeus byaseven-archedbridge,about'/zM.fartherup.Pompey,withhis11 legions(47,000footand7000horse)layencampedontheheightsonthe oppositebank.Theexactpointwherethetwoarmiescametoclosequar tersisuncertain.InhisaccountofthebattleCaesarsaysnothingabout crossingtheriver,thoughoneotthearmiesmusthavedoneso. Mommsen('HistoryofBorne',Vol.IV; translatedbyDickson)gives thefollowingaccountofthebattle.^Pompeiusrestedhisrightwingon theEnipeus: Ceesaroppositetohimrestedhisleftonthebrokenground stretchinginfrontoftheEnipeus; thetwootherwingswerestationed outintheplain,coveredineachcasebythecavalryandthelighttroops. TheintentionofPompeiuswastokeephisinfantryonthedefensive, butwithhiscavalrytoscattertheweakbandofhorsemenwhich,mixed aftertheGermanfashionwithlightinfantry,confrontedhim,andtotake Ceesar'srightwinginrear.Hisinfantrycourageouslysustainedthefirst chargeofthatoftheenemy,andtheengagementtherecametoastand. Labienus(Ceesar'slieutenantinGaul,whohadjoinedPompey'spartyon theoutbreakofthecivilwar)likewisedispersedenemy's thecavalry afterabraveshort butresistance,anddeployedhisforcetotheleftwith theviewofturningtheinfantry.ButCaesar,foreseeingthe defeatofhis cavalry,hadstationedbehinditonthethreatenedflankofhis rightwing some2000of hisbestlegionaries.Astheenemy'shorsemen,drivingthose ofOeesarbeforethem,gallopedalongandaroundtheline,theysuddenly cameonthisselectcorpsadvancingintrepidlyagainstthem,and,rapidly thrownintoconfusionbytheunexpectedandunusualinfantryattack, theygallopedatfullspeedfromthefieldofbattle.Thevictoriouslegion ariescuttopiecestheenemy'sarchersnowunprotected,thenrushedat theleftwingoftheenemy,andbegannowontheirparttoturnit.At thesametimeCaesar'sthirddivisionhithertoreservedadvancedalong thewholelinetotheattack.Theunexpecteddefeatthe ofbestarmof thePompeianarmy,asitraisedthecourageoftheiropponents,broke thatof thearmyandaboveallthatthe ofgeneral.WhenPompeius,who fromthe outsetnottrust did his infantry,sawthehorsemengallopoff,he rodebackatoncefromthefieldofbattletothecamp,withoutawait even ingtheissueofthegeneralattackorderedbyCsesar.Hislegionsbegan towaverandsoonto retireoverthebrookintothecamp,whichwasnot accomplishedwithoutsevereloss SoendedthedayofPharsalus. Theenemy'sarmywasnotonlydefeatedbutannihilated;15,000ofthe enemylaydeadorwoundedonthefieldofbattle,whiletheCeesarians missedonly200men; thebodywhichremainedtogether,amountingstill tonearly20,000men,laiddowntheirarmsonthemorningafterthe battle'.—PompeyfledthroughtheValeofTempetotheseaandem barkedforEgypt. On thelowchainofhills,houndingtheplainofPharsaloson the N.,isasmallTurkishconvent,surroundedwithcypressesand standingoutpicturesquelyonthehorizon.TotheleftaretheS. spursofMLPindoSjthestreamsdescendingfromwhichinwinter convertthiBdistrictintoamarsh.—50M.Demerit.About2 M. totheN.of(60M.)Sophades,onadouble-peakedrockyhillnear Pyrgos,aretheruinsofKierion. 68. M Karditaa(Xenodochfon)ya thrivinglittletownwith about6800inhah.,mostlyGreeks,andaconsiderabletradecorn, in to Trikktila. TRIKKALA.25.Route.Ill cotton, andtobacco,liesonabranchofthesmallriverKarditsit, 3/4M.totheN.oftherailway-station. The. N horizonisformedbytheCambounianMti.Totheleft, atthefootofthehills,butnotvisiblefromtherailway,liesPalae6- kastro,theancientMetropolis,atownrebuiltbytheInhabitantsof Ithome(seebelow)intheRomanperiod.ThiswasCaesar'slast haltonthemarchtoPharsalos. .74M Fhan&ri(the'light').Thelittletown(aboutlOOOinhab.), notseentillafterthetrainquitsthestation,hangsonthesteep Blope ofrooky ahill,thesiteoftheAcropolisoftheHomeric Ithome(xXiu-axdeaaa,the'rocky'),nowcrownedbythewallsofa Byzantinecitadel(ascentlfahr.).Thekeyoftheirondoorthe of lastis tobeobtainedatthelargebarracksonthehill; buttheview ofthetownandthesurroundingplainisjustasgood fromthe out sideofthewallsofthecitadel.Afewancientstoneshavebeen builtintothewalls; anda considerablenumberoffragmentsof columnsaretobeseenamongtheTurkishgraves. Fartheron,totheleft,inanangleofthePindosrange,rises anamphitheatricalhill,whichbearsthewallsoftheancientOom- phi(nearthevillageofQheldnthi).GomphiIsoftenmentionedby ancientwritersasapointofstrategicimportance(e.g.Caesarcap turedit,onhismarchfromDyrrhachium,afterenteringThessaly atjEginion),butisotherwiseoflittleinterest.Behinditthechain ofMt.Pindosisbrokenbytheso-calledPortaes, adeepcleft throughwhichrantheroadfromtheplainofThessalytotheupper basinoftheAspropotamos(Acheloos,see pp.28,32)andthecir cumscribedterritoryoftheAthamani.ThepartPindos of tothe N.ofthePortaeswasancientlycalledKerketion,nowKdtziakas. NearPhandri-MagoUla(right)thetraincrossestheBliouri,the ancientPamitoi,andbeyondStephanouaeusitcrossesthePeneios, thechiefriverofThessaly,flowingrapidlyalongitswidechannel. Trfkkala,overlookedbyitsTurkishfortressandembeddedinlux uriantvegetation,nowcomesintosight. 87. M Trikkala.—Inna.XenodochiontesPeteopoleos,intheRue duChemin-de-Fer,bedl'/2dr.; Xen.taMeteoba,opposite; Xen.ton Athenon,ontheothersideoftheriver;allthreewithtolerablerestaurants. Trfkkala,theancientTrika,famous a seatoftheworshipof jEsculapius,situatedontheslopeofa hillcrownedwithaci tadel,andonbothsidesoftheTrikkalin6s(theancientLethaeos), isnowthelargesttowninThessalybutone.Thepopulation isabout14,800,butinwinterwhentheneighbouringherdsmen retireintothetown,thisnumberisincreasedtoabout18,000.The most populousquarterisnearthebusyBazaar,inwhich,with itsnewmarkethall,centresthetradecom, inmaize,tobacco,and Bilkworm-cocoonsforthecountryround,asfarasthedistrictof Jannina.TheJewsliveclosetothebazaar,butwiththeexception oftheWallachianherdsmenintheN.quarter,theothernationalities do notliveapartfromeachother. 15* 228 Route1>5.MONASTERIESOFMETEORA. Trikkalacontainstenchurchesandseveralmosques,butonly twoofthelatterareinuse.Severalnarrowbridges(thechief nearthebazaar)spanthebroadbutshallowriver,thebantsof whichareshadedwithhandsomeplanesandothertrees.The townhasfewantiquitiestoboaBtof.IntheClubistheepitaph of^aphysician; andtheGymnasiumandsomeprivatehousescontain afewinscriptions. The bestsurveyofthecityandanextensiveprospectofthe environsareobtainedfromthetopoftheByzantineCitadel,which standsonthesiteoftheancientAcropolis.Noneoftheoldwalk remain.Admission(bythegateonthe"W.side)isobtainedonly byspecialpermissionfromthecommandant. The 'ExcursiontothbMonasteriesopMeteoraatKalabaka iseasilymadeinoneday fromTrikkala.Therailway(bestviews totheleft)traversesextensivevineyards,withaviewofOlympos totherightandPindostotheleft,andpassesthestationsofA/eroi, Voivoda,andKouveltzi.Justbeforethelast,namedtheconventof HagiosTheodorosappearsonthemountain.Acuriously-shaped rock,totheleft,onthePeneiosnearthebridgeofSarakino,attracts ourattention. .14M Kalabaka(KaXajmaxoi)whichcontainsa smallXeno- dochionandabout2000inhab.,formerlythe boreByzantinename ofStagousorStagi(ei?too?ixyioik).at Itthe liespointwherethe PeneiosenterstheThessalianplain,onthesiteoftheancienttown ofMginion(p.227),whichcommandedthepass,andofwhicha fewinscribedandcarvedstonesinthemoderntownarerelics.The Metropolis,oneoftheoldestchurchesinGreece,withanambooc cupyingnearlythewholeofthenave,deservesavisit. The "'MonasteriesofMeteora,foundedintheturbulentand warlike14thcent.,owetheirname,whichmeansthe'monasteries intheair',totheirremarkablepositiononthesummitsofanumber ofcuriouspillar-likerocks, risingprecipitouslyfromthevalley. ThenucleusofthesettlementwasthemonasteryofthePanagfaof Doupiano,roundwhich23othersimilarestablishmentsgradually arose.Ofthese,however,nearlyhalf thehaddisappearedbefore themiddleofthe16thcent.;andofthesevenmonasteriesnowre mainingonlyfourareinhabited,byabout50monksaltogether.The monasteryofHagiosStephanos,foundedbytheEasternemperorJohn Kantakuzenos(p.xlviii),istherichestoftheinhabitedmonaster ies; theothersareHagiaTrias,HagiaMonti,andHagiosBarlaam. Thelargestandhighestmonastery(1820ft.)bearsthenameof Meteoron.TheothertwoarenamedHagiosNikolaosKophinas and HagiaRos&ne.Themostinterestingofthemonasteriesisthatof HagiosBarlaam,whichhasa chapelintherock,withpaintings fromthelegendofSt.Ephraim; butforpassingthenight,St. Stephen'sshouldbechosen(adequatecontributionshouldbeplaced GYN^KOKASTRO.26.Route.229 inthealms-box).TravellersaredrawnupInanetby meansofa windlasstomostofthemonasteries; theascentbytheladdersis notrecommended. Aboutthefootoftheimposingmassesofrock,-whicharedivided intotwogroups,growsthemostluxuriantvegetation,whileabove appearsthenakedgreyconglomeratecliff.Adeepstillnessreigns allaround,brokennowandthenbythesuddensoundof thecon ventbells. Thereissufficienttimebetweenthearrivalanddepartureofthe traintopermitthetravellertorideroundallthemonasteries(6dr.), andtovisitoneofthem.FromKalabakaweridesuccessivelyto HagiosBarlaam,2hrs.totheN.viathehamletofKastraki,Hagia Trias,1 hr.totheS.W.,HagiosStephanos,3/ahr. totheS.,and backtoKalabaka,1hr.totheW.—Manytravellerscontentthem selveswithavisittothelast-namedmonasteryasthenearest(horse thereandback3dr.).Thebridle-pathloadsuptheE.sideofthe hillandwemayreturnbyasteepfootpathontheW.side. The*ViewfromthemonasteryofHag.Stephanosembracesnearly thewholeoftheW.Thessalianplain,whichisspreadlike outalake beforethebeholder,boundedontheW.andS.W.bytheruggedPindos chain,nearest the partofwhichistheKdtsiakas(p.227).Therangeof hillsontheS.endofwhichTrikkalaissituatedlookslikealongpeninsula. TowardstheW.thevalleyofthePeneioswidenstoaconsiderablebreadth, intersectedbynumerousbrooks,whichuniteinasinglecoursefarther down.About6M.offinthesamedirection,risesthesteepconicalhillnamed Skotimbos,theextensiveruinsonwhicharegenerallyidentifiedwiththean cientPheUoreia. FbohKalabakatoJannina, thecapitalofAlbania,theroadleads overthepass of Zygot,attheN.endoftheprincipalchainofPindos, ajourneyoftwodays.ThenightisspentatMetzovo. 26. FromPhersalatoLamiavia,Domoko. Thisjourneytakes days,thenight beingspentatDomokd.Car riage-road\ horse7-8dr.perday. Phersala, seep.225.Theroadto(4hrs.)Domokorunsto wardstheS.W.,passes(i^hr.)thecopiousspringofGouydvaand (10min.)theinsignificantremains(totheright)ofPalaedkastrn, a andascendsgraduallytothedepressionbetweenthehillsofSkia (right)andAlogopdti('horse'shoof;left).Itthendescendsthe W.slopeofthelatter.Totheright,atsomedistance,liesthe villageofHadji-Amdr.Aboutl1^hr.fromPhersalawecrossthe outflowof asmallmarshyplaingenerallyknownbythenameof thevillageVrysid('villageofsprings')initsW.corner. The hillstotheS.oftheVrysia,3/4M.totheleftoftheroute (2hrs.fromPhersala),arecrownedbytheruinsofProerna,atown ofnoimportanceinancienttimes,nowknownasGynaehSkastro, or'Ladies'Castle',fromamediaevallegend. Theancientwalls,builtinregularcoursesofsquaredstones,arestill intolerablepreservation,especiallyontheW.sideofthehill.The wall,however,whichstoodintheplainandencircledthelowertown, hascompletelydisappeared.TheE.wall, strengthenedwithtowers, 230 Route26. PHOURKAPASS. stretchesalmoststraightupthehill;whiletheS.wallextendsalongthe edgeoftheheight,about330ft.abovetheplain.Onelargegatewas situateda depression in tothe: E.anothersmallergateopenednearthe 8.W.corner:andathirdlayonthesaddleacrosswhichtheW.wallran. Thehostiledemonstrationsoftheshepherds'dogsareratherahindrance toaninspectionoftheruins.Tracesofwallsarealsotobeseenona smallheighttotheW.,outsidethecitadel. ProceedingtowardstheS.,wecrosstwobrookB,passnearthe villageofFoumart(left),andascendthroughthedeepravineof theDomokiotikSPotdmito(2hrs.)— Domoko,a smalltown(1600inhab.)commandedbyastrong fortress.Travellerswhoarefortunateenoughtohavelettersofintro ductionwillfindafriendlyreceptionatthe'EpiskopF,orbishop's house; othersmustputupwiththecomfortlessaccommodationof thekhanandthepoorfareofthecook-shops.Domokfiisacorrupted formofThaumakoi'(i.e.'wonder-city'),thenamegivenbytheGreeks to'theancientpredecessorofthepresenttown,onaccountofthe surpassingbeautyofitssituation.TheplaceofThaumakofin historyis,however,unimportant.BesiegedbyPhilipV.inB.C. 198,itwassuccouredbythe^Etolians; butsevenyearslaterit wastakenwithoutablow,likemanyotherThessaliantowns,by AciliusGlabrio(p.200).Afewscantyremainsoftheoldwalls stilllingerontheW.slopeofthehillonwhichthefortifications rise; andstoneswithinscriptionshavebeenfoundnearthechurch andotherpartsthe oftownandthefortress. FromDomok6toLamfathedistanceisabout8hrs.(car riage,seldomtobehadatDomok6,about60dr.).InH/2hr.we catchglimpse a totherightofthelakeofNetenSorDaoukU(the ancientXynids~),surroundedbylowhills; andthengradually ascendtothePhourkaPass(2790ft.),thelowestpassacrossMl. Othrys.TotheE.theloftilysituatedmonasteryofAntinitsa (p.203)isvisiblebeyondadeepravine.Theroadthendescends innumerouswindingsalongthevergeofthedeepravine. Lamia,seep.202. THE PELOPONNESUS.

ThePeloponnesus(^IieXojiovvTjaoi), knownfromthelater middleagesuntilrecentlyastheMorea(perhapsfromitsmulberry trees),isthesoutherly,peninsularportionofthemainlandof Greece,connectedwiththeN.portiononlybythenarrowIsthmus ofCorinth(3M.wide).Itsareais8286sq.M.,orincludingthe islands, 8670sq.M.; itspopulationis813,154.Thecentreisoc cupiedthe byhillydistrictofArcadia,whichisitselfalmost entirelyencircledbymountains.Theotherdistrictseitherdescend fromthiscentralmountain-systemtothecoastinsuccessiveter races(suchasAchaea,intheN.,Elis,ontheN.E.,andArgolis, withCorinth,intheN.W.),orprojectfromitintheformof in dependentpeninsulas,withmountainrangesoftheirown(e.g. Messenia andto LaconiatheS.).ThechiefmountainsintheN. ofArcadiaareAroania(modernChebnos;7725ft.)inthemiddle; KyUeni(modernZiria;7790ft.)ontheN.E.,andErymanthos (modernOlonos;7300ft.),withitsoffshootPanacha'ikon(modern Voidia;6320ft.),ontheN.W.IntheS.W.ofArcadiarisesthe Lykaeon(4660ft.),whichisconnectedwithAft.Mgaleon(4000ft.), thebackboneofthepeninsulaofMessenia,bytheNomiaOre(mo dernTetrasi;4655ft.).ThelowhillsofS.Arcadiaareadjoinedby Taygetos(themediaevalPentedaktylon; 7906ft),thelongestand highestrangeinthepeninsula; whiletheArtemision,Parthenion, andtheothermountainsontheE.borderofArcadia,withaheight of4500-5300ft.,arecontinuedtotheS.byPamon(modernMa- levo;6365ft.),intheE.Laconianpeninsula.Thechiefriversof thePeloponnesusaretheAlpheios(modernRouphifi),flowinginto theIonianSea,andtheEurotas(modernJri),flowingintotheLa conianGulf. Howevernaturallythesedistrictsaccommodatethemselvesto thephysicaldivisionsofthecountry,theyhadatnotimeduring theperiodofGreekindependenceanypoliticalsignificance.With theexceptionofthedistrictintheS.W.subjecttoSparta,there werehardlyanypoliticalentitiesinthePeloponnesusbeyondthe city-republics.AfterwhatisknownastheDoricmigrationwhich introducedtheDoriansandotherN.GreekpeoplesintothePelo ponnesusandleftthemconquerorsovertheearlierAchaeansettlers, theinhabitantsoftheS.andE.coastswereregardedasbelonging totheDoricstock,whilethoseofthemountainousinterior,andof theN.andN.W.coastswereincludedintheAchaean-jEolicfamily. TheearliestinvasionsoftheN.raceswerethetemporarypreda toryraidsoftheGothsintheyears267and 395ofourera(comp. p.44);thepeninsula,liketherestGreece, of remainedsubject 232 Route27. CORINTH. to theByzantineempire.Butinthe6thandthetwofollowing centuriesappearedtheAvars,Slavs,andothertribes,whoestablish edthemselvesinthecountryandinagreatmeasuredislodgedthe Greeks.Converted,however,toChristianitybytheByzantines,these strangersfromthe N.graduallyadoptedtheGreektongue,sothat bythe10thcent,itwasoncemorethelanguageofthecountry. In1204and1205QeoffroydeVillehardouinandOuillaumede ChamplitteconqueredthePeloponnesuswiththeaidoftheirBur- gundianknights;andthelatterassumedthetitleof'Princeof Morea.'Geoffroyde Villehardouinsucceededhiminthetitle,and thedignityremainedinhisfamilyuntil1278.Thecountrymean whilewasdividedinto14baronies;andbaronialcastleswere everywherebuilt,afterthemannerofW.Christendom.Thecoasts wereoccupiedbytheVenetians.From1278till1383thePelo ponnesuswasinthe possessionoftheNeapolitanhouseof Anjou, whoruleditbymeansofgovernors.Beforethecloseofthe13th cent,theByzantineshadagaineffectedafootingonthepeninsula, andatthebeginningofthe15thcent,itwasoncemoresubjectto theirpower,despitetheinvasionofthepastoralAlbanians,who madetheirfirstappearanceinthecenturybefore.WhentheByzan tineempirefellbeforeOttoman the power,thePeloponnesusalso, withtheexceptionoftheVenetiancoast-settlements, passedin 1460intothepossessionoftheTurks.In1685theVenetian generalFrancescoMoroslnilandedinthePeloponnesuswithan army,largelyrecruitedinGermany,andinthreeyearswasmaster oftheentirepeninsula;buttheVenetianpowerlastedonlyfor ashorttime(till1715).—ThepopulationofthePeloponnesusis describedasa hellenizedmixedrace.Itincludesabout50,000 Albanians,chieflyinCorinthandArgolls. Nexto t AthensandAttica,thePeloponnesusisthemostextensively visitedpartGreece. of Sometravellerscontentthemselveswithanex peditionfromCorinthtoMycenaeandNaupliaanda visittoOlympic whileothersmakeinadditionacirculartourthroughtheentirepeninsula (comp.p.xxi).RailwayshavebeenopenedfromCorinthtoArgotand Nauplia(R.29),andTripoliUa(R.35);fromCorinthtoFatras(R.28)and fromPatrastoPtirgotandOlijmpiaandtoKatakolon,withabranchfrom KavauilatoKyllene(R. 46), andfrom KalamatatoDiavolitsi(R.48).The numberofgoodRoadsissteadilyincreasing.ThesailroundthePelo ponnesusintheGreekcoasting-steamersisalsoveryinteresting;comp. KR.81, 33,&45;alsopp.xix-xx.

27. CorinthandtheIsthmusofCorinth. Arrival.TheRailwayStation(RR.12,28,29)liesneartheSteamboat Landing-Place(R.13).Boattoorfromthesteamer1dr.; theboatmenoften makeextortionatedemands. HotelsandRestaurants.RailwayRestaurant,good;inconnection withit istheadjoiningHoteldela Gare,bed5dr.—Inthetown, fromthestation:Xknodochi'ontoStkmma(HdtetdelaCouronne),afairly goodhouse,bed2-3dr.;XknodoohIontonParisIon(HdteldeFarit),similar. Carriageinthetown1dr.;toOldCorinth10-12dr.,lessinasmaller ichicle.—HorsetotheAcro-Corinthandback(ohrs.)4-5dr.Thekeeper

CORINTH. 27.Route.233 of therailway-restaurantwillprocurehorsesandcarriagesonrequest.— Travellersarrivingbythep.m. 3 trainshouldproceedatoncetoOld Corinth,butshouldtakecarenottospendtoomuchtimeontheAcro- Corinth(provisionsshouldbetaken). Corinth (Kopivfto;),aregularlybuilt littletownwith4100inhab., isofquitemodernorigin,havingbeenfoundedbarely40yearsago. Theancienttownlayabout37aM.totheS.W.,atthefootofthe citadelofAcro-Gorinth.Avillagestoodonthissiteduringthe middleagesanddownto1858,whenitwasalmosttotallydestroyed by anearthquake.Theinhabitantsthenfoundedthepresentlittle town,whichliesquiteclosetothesea. The unusuallyfavourablesituationofCorinth,ontheisthmuscon nectingN.GreecewiththePeloponnesusandin closeproximitytothe season bothsidesofthecountry,earlymadeitacentreoffar-reaching commercialenterprisesandthegreatemporiumfortheproduceofboth theE.andtheW.Themythicalfounderofthetownwastheastute Sisyphos,anditsoriginalnameissaidtohavebeenEphyra.ThePhoe nicianelementwaspresenthereinstrongforceandexercisedvery a powerfulinfluenceuponthedevelopmentofthesociallifeoftheinhab itants.ThisinfluencewasmanifestednotonlybythecultoftheSi- donianAstarte(Aphrodite)inthecitadel,withitsAsiaticserviceofthe Hierodouli,andbytheworshipoftheTyrianMelkartontheIsthmus (p.237),butalsobytheancientmanufacturesofpurpleandwovenstuffs, andbythecommercialspiritwhichprevailedinthewholepubliclife ofthecity.Eventhestrongly-markedandseverecharacteroftheDo rians,whoforcedanentranceinthe9tlicent.B.C.,waslostintheluxur ioustrading-city.Corinthplantednumerouscolonies,ofwhichthemost famouswereSyracuse,Potidpea,andCorcyra.Untilthe Persianwarsits onlyrivalsastheleadingcentreoftradeintheGreekworldwereiEgina (p.136)andMiletosinAsiaMinor. Corinth wasatfirstanoligarchy.Thechiefpowerwasinthehands oftheBacchiadaexafamilyofthestockoftheHerakleidse,who,however, wereoverthrownaboutB.C.657byKypselos.Underthetyrants(Kypselos, B.C.657-629^ Periander,B.C.629-585;andPsammetichos,murderedinB.C. 582),whodependedonthepeopleforsupport,Corinthwasmightiestand itspeoplehappiest.Undertherestoredruleoftheoligarchy,theCorin thians,whohadbutlittlewarlikeambitionandhadtakenbutamodest shareinthePersianwars,attachedthemselvesmoreandmoreclosely toSparta,inordertodefendthemselvesagainsttheirresistibleadvance ofAthens.ItwasCorinththatspeciallyinstigatedSpartatothedecisive trialofstrengthwithAthens.ButthegreatnessofCorinthwasalready onthewanewhentheoverthrowofitsrivalinB.C. 404(p.43)fora momentfreedthedominionoftheseas-,nothingavailedtorecallits formersplendour.Theso-calledCorinthianWar(B.C.395-387),inwhich Thebes,Argos,andCorinthendeavouredtoclipthewingsofSparta,was partlywagedwithintheCorinthianterritories. With theexceptionoftheshortprosperityoftheAchaeanLeague (B.C.243-222),thecitadelwasinthepossessionoftheMacedoniansfrom B.C. 335toB.C.197.AfterthedeclarationofindependencebytheRo mansinB.C.196(p.237),CorinthbecametheheadofanewAchaean League; butitsrebellionagainstRomewaspunished(probablyatthe instanceofthecommercialpartyintheRomansenate)withthecom pletedestructionofthecitybythevictoriousconsulLuciusMummius. Theinhabitantsweresoldintoslavery,itsterritoriesweredivided, andforahundredyearsitssitelaydesolate.Ceesarrefoundedthetown andplantedthereacivilcolony,consistingchieflyoffreedmen,which speedilyattainedanewprosperity,andbecametheseatoftheproconsul ofAcheea.ThiswastheCorinththatSt.Paulknew,themostsplendid commercialcityofGreece,andthechosenabodeofluxuriousmaterialism avndfrivolousimmorality.Heretheapostlefoundedacommunity,whose laterdivisionshereprovesinhistwoepistlestotheCorinthians. 234 Route27. ACRO-CORINTH.Corinthandthe InthemiddleagesCorinthpossessednoimportance.Thefortress ofAcro-CorinthfellintothehandsoftheTurksin1458,wastakenby theVenetiansin1682,andfrom1715till1821wasagaininTurkishpos session.ByrondescribesitscapturebytheTurksin1715his in(Siege ofCorinth'. AvisittothesiteofOldCorinthandtheAcro-Corinthonhorse ormule(p.232)takes5hrs.,thereandback;drivingispracti cabletoOldCorinth.TherouteatfirstfollowsPatras theroad, whichiscrossedbytherailway,andthendivergestotheleft. ThevillageofOldCorinth(Palaea-Kdrinthos)consistsafew of housesonly.Visitorsusuallyhaltatatavernclosebesidethe venerablecolumnsofanancienttemple.AncientCorinthlayin theplainsloping graduallyuptothefootofthecitadel-crowned rockofAcro-Corinth.Thetown-wallsbeganontheE.andW. slopesoftheAcropolisandwereprolongedontheN.,beyondthe cityproper,toincludetheportofLechaeon(nowcalledDiavatiki). ThebestknownofthesuburbsisKraneion,theabodeofDiogenes theCynic,whowasvisitedherebyAlexandertheGreat.Thecir cuitofthetownproperissaidtohavebeen40stadia(4-5M.),or withthesuburbs85stadia.Ifthewallsrunningdowntothesea bealsoincludedthecircuitwasabout12M. TheTemple,oneoftheoldestmonumentsoftheDoricstyle (comp.p.333),istheonlyrelicoftheancienttownthatcallsfor notice.Accordingtothecommonopinionthebuildingwasperip teral,withsixcolumnsateachend;andofthesefiveonthe W.side,withthetwoimmediatelyadjoiningontheS., together witha portiontheentablature, of arestillpreserved.Therewere 15columnsoneachside.Theinteriorwasoccupiedbytwoceliac, eachwithaporticoofitsown.TheE.cellawasthelarger;itwas oblonginformandcontained8interiorcolumns.Thesmaller W.cellawasalmostsquare,andhadonly4interiorcolumns.It hasbeensupposedfromthisarrangementthatthetemplesheltered twodifferentcults.Thebuildingmaterialisaroughandporous limestone,overlaidwithareddish-yellowstucco.Themonolithic columnshave16flutesandtaperregularlytowardsthetop.Their extraordinarilymassiveproportions(height23l/2ft-; diameterat thebase5ft.8in.,atthetop4ft.3in.)combinewiththepro jectingcapitalsandheavyentablaturetoproduceanimpression ofhoaryantiquity.—Alongwallandotherremainsexhumedin 1892bytheArchaeologicalSociety(p.94); a largeblockrock of withseveralnichesandchambers; theso-calledBathof Aphrodite (XouxpoTfj?'AtppoStafj?; V«M.totheN.,ontheedgeoftheterrace markingtheN.limitoftheoldtown),withnarrowartificialchannels, fromwhichspringwaterflows;andtheremainsofRoman a Amphi theatre(3/4M.totheE.,towardstheIsthmus)arehardlyworth avisit. Theascenttothetopthe of**Acro-Corinth,possiblefromthe W.sideonly,shouldnotbeomitted.Thelowerentrancemaybe Isthmusf o Corinth.ACRO-CORINTH.27.Route.235 reachedn i 1hr.fromtheruinedtempleonhorseback(3dr.)on or foot.Themediaevalfortifications,whichformatriplelineonthe sidebywhichweenter,haveacircuitofaboutM.Atonlya veryfewplaceshavetheancientremainsbeendirectlyused;several Venetiancannonstillliescatteredabout.Afterpassingthroughthe thirdgateway,wemounttotheleft,atfirstfollowinganindistinct paththroughtherankvegetation.Theinnumerableruinsofsmall housesandtheremainsofGreekandTurkishchapels,thewhole forminga sceneofperfectchaos,datefromthelasttwoorthree centuries.In25min. fromthelowerentrancewereachthesummit oftheAcropolis(1886ft.),whichdescendsprecipitouslyonthe N.side.HerewenoticetheremainsofaTurkishoratory,andto theW.ofitafewlargeblocksfromthetempleofAphrodite.The **Viewwhichnowpresentsitselfwasfamouseveninantiquity.It embracesagreat partofthemountainousdistrictsonbothsidesof theCorinthianGulfandoftheIsthmus,whichliesspreadoutlike amapatthefootthe ofobserver. 'TotheS.ourgazecommandsthevalleys stretchingtowardsthe MountainsofArgolis,aswellasthose baremountainwallsthemselves, whichconcealtheplainofArgosanddescendabruptlyontheE.into theSaronicGulf.TotheW.towerstheloftyNorthArcadianChain, withthesnowyZiria(Kyllene)andChelmos(Aroania),whileinfrontof itafruitfulplainextendsalongtheseaasfar asthe ancientSikyon.To theN.welookacrossthetown,lyingfarbelowatourfeet,tothe glassysurfaceoftheCorinthianGulf,abovewhichrisesthehillypenin sulaofPerachora(theancientPeraea),stretchingtotheW,fromthe GeraneanMts.andendingintheabruptpromontoryofHagiosNikolaos (HeraAkraea).FarthertotheN.themassiverangesofBoeotia,Phocis, Locris,andjEtoliaseemtojointhePeloponnesianmountains,andtoshut intheCorinthianGulflikeagreatinlandlake.Mostimposingofallis Parnassos,whichrearsitssummit,snow-claduntilon farinthespring,a fewleaguesfromthefarthersidethe ofgulf.Nearit,totheleft,are thestillloftierKionaandVardousia(Korax),andtotherightthelower butboldly-shapedHelicon,thehilloftheMuses,andKithaeron,which adjoinsthemountainsofAttica.TotheE.spreadstheSaronicGulf, withSalamis,jEgina,anditssmallerislandsandrocks,whilebeyondis theAtticpeninsula,withthelongHymettosandtheHillsofLaurion tracingthehorizonasfarasBunion*(W.Vischer).Inclearweather Athensisvisiblefromthispoint;theAcropolis,withtheParthenon,and theglisteningwhitewallsoftheroyalpalace,infrontofHymettosand Lykabettos,maybedistinguished. Ase w descendwekeepclosebytheE.wallinordertovisitthe remarkablespringofPirene,abouti/thr.fromthesummit.This springissaidtohavebeenbestowedonSisyphosbytheriver-god Asoposinreturnforhishavingrevealedthehiding-placeofthe latter'sdaughterjEgina,whohadbeencarriedoffbyZeus.Ac cordingtoanotherlegendthestreamgushedforthata stroke of thehoofofPegasus.TheentranceistotheS.E.ofa longruined barrack,betweenitsoutsidestairandadismountedcannon.We descendbyawoodenladderintothewell-house,whichwascovered withavaulteveninRomantimes; onthepilastersareafewancient inscriptions.Thewaterisso clearthatatthefirstglanceitis difficulttotellhowfaritcoverstherockystepsbelow.—Follow 236 Route27. ISTHMUSOFCORINTH. ing a pathfromthisspringpasttheS.summitofthehill,weob servetotheright,notfarfromthehighestgatewayandbesidethe lowerpart ofminaret, a alargecistern(16ft.deep,98ft.long,and 32ft.broad),huge arelicoftheRomanperiod. To theS.W.oftheAero-Corinth,ontheothersideofadeep depression,istheslightlylowerheightofPenteskouphia, also crownedbyasmallfortress.TotheS.risesMl.Skona(2305ft.) Aboutl1/*M.totheN.E.ofNewCorinthistheW.entranceto theShip-Canal,openedon6thAug.1893,whichcutsacrossthe IsthmusofCorinth.BydirectlyconnectingtheGulfofCorinth withtheSaronicGulf,itshortensthejourneyfromtheAdriaticto Piraeusby202M. (distancefromtheislandofKephalleniatoPiraeus roundthePeloponnesus366M.,throughtheCanal184M.; comp. p.xix).Theideaofcuttingacanalthroughtheisthmuswasfamiliar totheancients,andwasseriouslyentertainedduringthetimeof Caesar,Nero,andHadrian.TracesoftheworkofNerostillexist. Thepresentcanalwasbegunin1881byaFrenchcompanywhich, however,ceasedoperationsin1889,andthecompletionwasleftto aGreekcompany.Twoimposingbreakwaters,each785ft.long, withlighthousesattheends,protecttheW.entrance,whereanew town,Poseidonia,isspringingup. About2*/2M.totheK.HethehotbathsofLoutraki,muchfrequent edinsummer.FairaccomodationmaybeobtainedintheHdtelKataslema, keptbyParamytliiotis,andina'dependance'oftheEdtelSiemmaatXew Corinth. Thecanalis100ft.inbreadth,372M.inlength,and26ft. indepth.Foradistanceofabout1M.itiscutintotherock.The heightofwaterintheE.andW.seabeingnearlyequal,nosluices wererequired.About1M.fromitsW.endit isspannedbytheiron bridge(170ft.high)oftheAthensandCorinthRailway,mentioned at p.150.Alighthousehasbeenbuiltonthehighestpointofthe Isthmianridge(256ft.abovethesea),andisvisibleforagreat distanceoneitherside. The. E entranceofthecanalisalsoprotectedbybreakwaters withlighthouses,andanothersmalltown,calledIsthmia,hasgrown uponbothsidesoftheentrance.AlittletotheN.aretheunim portantremainsof theancienttownofSchoinos.FarthertotheE. liestheformerlanding-placeKalamaki(p.150). Kenchreae,theotherE.portofancientCorinth,mentionedin Acts,xviii.18, layabout3M.farthertotheS. Scarcely1/2M.totheS.W.oftheE.entranoeofthecanaland aboutasfartotheS.E.of thesecondbridge,istheenclosureofthe ancientIsthmtanSanctuabjes,withinwhichnowliethechapel ofHagiosJo&nnesandtheruinsoftwootherchapels.Thissacreden closurehassince1883becomebetterknownowingtotheexcavations oftheFrenchSchool(p.94).Thesurroundingwall,ofwhichonly thelowercoursesarenowextant,hastheformofanirregularpen PLAIN OF VOCHA.28.Route.237 tagou andcloselyadjoinstheIsthmianwall(p.237),withwhich infactitcoincidedontheN.andN.E.foradistance220 ofyds.; itsE.sideisshapedlikeahalf-moon.Thechiefentranceisonthe N.E.side; partofthepavingofthebroadroadleadingthroughit hasbeenpreserved,andtheoldchariot-tracksaredistinctlyre cognisable.Thereseemstohavebeena secondentranceonthe W.side,andathirdopenedontheS.E.,towardsthestadion.The precinctsformerlycontainedthetemplesofPoseidonand Pa- IsemonorMelikertes(thePhoeniciangodMelkart),but notraces ofthesehaveyetbeendiscovered.TheinstitutionoftheIsthmian Games,whichwereheldeverytwoyears,wasascribedtoTheseus, andtheywerethereforeespeciallyfrequentedbytheAthenians, whilsttheSpartansandEleians avoidedthem.Theathleticexercises tookplacethe inStadion,nowmoreresemblinga naturalhollow. HereAlexandertheGreatcausedhimselftobehailedastheleader ofalltheGreeks,beforeexpedition the toPersiainB.C.336;and hereinB.C.196T.QuinctiusFlamininusannouncedtotheGreeks thegiftofindependencevouchsafedthembytheEomans.Tothe W.ofthetempleenclosurearetheremainsofasemicircularbuild ing,whichissupposedtobetheGraeco-RomanTheatre.Fartherto theW.isatunnel,intended,likeasimilaronenearIsthmus the wall,tocarryofftherain-water. ThefamousIsthmianWall,whichranacrosstheIsthmus,may stillbetracedforitsentirelength,thoughinseveralplaces,espe ciallytotheW., itnolongerappearsabovetheearth.Somepor tionsseemtodatefromthemostremoteperiod; butthechiefre mainsarenotolderthantherestorationsunderValerian(3rdcent. A.D.),Justinian(6thcent.),andtheVenetians.ClosebytheN. aideofthewallandneartheroadfromCorinthtoKalamaki,beside aguard-house,maybetracedtheremainsoftheDiolkos,ortram way,onwhichsmallshipsweretransportedacrosstheIsthmus.— ThewalkhencetoNewCorinthtakes1hr.more.

28.FromCorinthtoPatras. .8OV2M Railwayin4i/t-5hrs. (fares15dr.80,12dr.401.; returnticket, 7i/,-8V4validforhrs.two(28days,dr.501.,28dr.2140,dr.;19return-ticket,dr.851.).FromvalidAthensforfourtodays,Patras47dr.in 70,33dr.601.).—Viewschieflytotheright. Corinth,seep.232.—Therailway,whichskirtstheseanearly thewholeway,passesthrougharichlywatereddistrictalmoBtex clusivelydevotedtothecultivationofvinesandcurrants.The E.partofthisdistrict,nowcalledthePlainVocha, of belongedin ancienttimestoCorinthandSikyon,andtheW.partbelongedto Achaea.Boundthenumerousvillagesaretobeseenthedazzling whitefieldspreparedfordryingthecurrants.Mostofthetorrents andstreams,whichfilltheirbroadchannelsafterheavyrainonly, arecrossedbyironbridges. 238 Route28. SIKYON. FromCorinth Asthetrainemergesfromthestationwesee,totheleft,the Aero-Corinth,withOldCorinthandthetempleatitsbase; onthe topofthehillthe toW.oftheAcro-Corinthistheruinedcastleof Penteskouphia(p.236).Totheright,closetothesea,liesLechaeon (p.234),betweentwolong barrenhills.Ontheothersidethe of gulfthepromontoryofHagiosNikolaos{HeraAkraea; p.150)rises fromthesea.Beyond(54/2M.)PerigidliwecrosstheLongoPdtamo, descendingfromKleons(p.241).—7M.Assos.Near(8M.) VrachdtithetraincrossesthesmallriverofNemea(p.241).— 10M.Kokkoni. 11. M Velio.Totheleft,3M.distant,ontheloftygreyterrace betweenthedeepgorgesoftheAsoposandtheHelisson(seebelow), liesthesmallvillageofVasilikiS,indicatedbythespireofItsmod emchurch.Ititssituatedonthevergeoftheplateauoccupiedby thesiteofancient Sikyon. Sikyon ('cucumbertown'), originallycalledM%k6ni('poppytown*),waa foundedbytheiEgaleanIonians,andpassedlaterintothehandsofDo riansfromArgos.UnderthetyrannyoftheOrthagoridaeitrosetoa highpitchofprosperity,astheschoolofartnamedafterthetownsuf ficientlyattests.SikyonpossessedatreasuryofitsownatOlympia(p.336). Itscoins,bearingthedeviceofaflyingdove,circulatedfarandwide. AfteritssecondfoundationbyDemetriosPoliorketes(p.217; B.C.303), thetownenjoyedaneweraofprosperity,duemainlytotheactivityof itscitizenAratos,whoprocuredtheadhesionofSikyon,Corinth,and otherPeloponnesiantownstotheAchgeanLeague.Thetownalsoenjoyed thefavouroftheRomans.Theruinsareconsiderable.TheTheatbe,to theW.ofVasilik6,abutsonan eminence,fromwhichitisingreat parthewn.Thetiersofseatsareintersectedbyanunusualnumberof stairways; andtwovaultedtunnelsgaveadmissiontopartsoftheaudi torium.Thesupportsofthestagehaverecentlybeenbroughttolightby theexcavationsoftheAmericanSchoolatAthens.Kearthetheatreis anAqueductandtotheN.W.istheStadion,withawell-preservedsub structureonthe formedofcarefullyhewnpolygonalblocks.Frag mentsofthisandotherruinsliestrewnovertheentireterrace. ThetabularmountaininthebackgroundisthePhouka(2060ft.), theancientApesas,onwhichPerseusissaidtohavesacrificedto ZeusApesantlos.TotheW., overthelow andwhite-streakedhills intheforeground,risesthejaggedchainofKyllene(p.239),the summit*ofwhicharegenerallyshroudedinclouds.Ontheoppo sitesideoftheCorinthianGulfrisethemountainsofMegara,which arecontinuedbyKithaeron(p.175)andthetwogroupsofHelicon (p.167),theformersomewhatinthebackgroundandthelatter closetothesea. Beyond VeliotherailwaycrossestheancientriverAsopos,and justbeyond(13M.)Ki&tothesmallHelisson,nownamedLechova. —ThenarrowstripofcoastwhichjoinstheplainofVocha(end ingatKiato)withtheplainofiEglonistraversedbynumerous riversandtorrents,someofthemissuingfromdeepgorgesamong themountains.Amongthesemaybementionedthesmallriver Lalidti,theancientSelleeis,near(15M.)Dimini6.Apeculiarity intherichlyvariedlandscapesoftheN.coastofthePeloponnesus to Patras. 28.Route.239 consistsn i thelongrowsofcypresses,insomeplaces,(17i/2 as atM.) MelissiandXylokastro,formingentirewoods,whereasintherest ofGreecethisfavouritetreeoftheTurksisbutrarelyseen.— 19!/2M.Sykid.—Before(21!/2M.)Xyldkastrothetraincrossesthe wildandimpetuousTrikalitikos, theancientSysorSythas,which formedtheE.boundaryofthedistrictofAchaeaor,asitwasori ginallycalled,JEgialos('coast-land'). Xylokastrois thestarting-pointfortheeasyascentoftheKyllene (I1/2day).WeascendthevalleyoftheTrikalitikostoTriUala(3403ft.), whereaccommodationmaybeobtainedfromtheNotartufamily.Next daywemountto(IV2hr.)a plateauonwhichisa shepherd'scamp,whence weascend(nopath)in2hrs.tothetopoftheKyllene,nowcalledZiria (W.peak7790ft.;E.peak6940ft.).DescentontheS.W.toOoura,seep.296. At (26M.)Kam&rithecone-shapedhillofKoryphe(2400ft.) comesintoviewontheleft.Atitsbaseprobablylaythesmalltown ofDonussa,whichbelonged,liketheharbourofAristonautae,to thehigh-lyingmountain-townofPellene(nearZougra).—Beyond KamaritheancientKrios,nownamedPhdnissa('murderess'),enters thesea.Between(M^M.)Lykoporid,wheretheegg-shapedAvg6 comesintosightattheendofaruggedmountainridge,and(30M.) StomiwecrosstheSkoupeikoPotdmi,andat(34^2M.)Derveni theZacholitikoPotdmi.Theshortstretchofcoast-landhere,dis tinguishedforitsolive-groves,iscalledMdvraLitharia('black stones').Theportatthispointbelongedinancienttimestothe townof(37*/2M.)jEgira,situatedaboutH/jM.inland,onaspur oftheEvrostina.—Immediatelybeyond(39t/2M.)Akrdtawecross thestreamofthatname,theancientKrathis,whichneverwholly driesup.Ontheothersidethe ofgulf,totheE.ofthebayof Itea (p.150),theloftyParnasaos(p.157)rearsitsheadabovethelow Kirphis.—44 M.Pldtanoa; 46t/2M.Trdpeza;4772M.Diakdptika, attheentrancetoadeepravine. eAsw enterthecoast-plainofjEgionwepassthebroaddelta formedbytheKerynites,nowcalledVouphousia,andtheSelinus, nownamedafter^Egion.—62 M.Eizdmylo.Abovethisvillage laytheancientKeryneia.—64M.Temeni. 664/2. M -Egion.—TheXenodoch(onofLivathinos,totheW.of therailway-station,isclean(hedl1/2dr.)andhasafairrestaurant.There area fewsmallXenodochiaintheupperpartofthetown.—Steamee toMa,twiceweeklyviaVistrinitzaandGalaxidi(p.34)r fares6dr.75, 4dr.851. rMgiono JEgium,atownwith7000inhab.andnexttoPatras andCorinththemostimportantplaceontheGulfof Corinth,isstill generallyknownbyitsTurkishnameofVostitza.Invirtueofits centralsituationitwas,ancient in times,theforemostplacein Achaea,andthedeliberationsoftheAchaeanLeagueweregenerally heldinanadjacentgrove(Homarion).Therailway-stationliesin thelowertown,whichmainlyconsistsofthestorehousesofthe currant-merchantsandcontainsthechiefspringoftheplace, rising tothesurfaceby16separateopenings.Ontheharbour-embank 240 Route29. IJEXAMILIA.FromCorinth ment, -whichhasbeenrestoredontheancientlines,isanother copiousspringwithmouths. 9 Theancientapproachfromthelower totheuppertown,repavedinmodemdays,leadsthroughanopen inginthecliff,probablyofnaturaloriginbutartificiallywidened. Theuppertown,whichliesonaplateausurroundedbyaravine, containsseveralhandsomeprivatedwellings,amongwhichthatof thePanagiotdpoulosfamilyisconspicuous.Theremainsofanti quity,includingasubterraneanpassageinthegardenofM.Theodo- ropoulos,areunimportant.Thetownsufferedveryseverelyfrom anearthquakeonSept. 10th,1888.—TheharbourofjEgionisthe bestintheGulfofCorinth.Theplainaroundthetowniscovered withluxuriantgrapeandcurrantvineyardsandalsocontainsafew oliveandmulberryplantations.Thehillsrisinginthebackground, beyondtheplain, aretheMavrikiotisandtheKolokotr6nis.— About4J/2M.totheE.laytheancientHelike(p.301). FromdigiontoKalavryta(railwayunderconstruction),seepp.301-299. Thefertile littoralplain,onwhichthebestcurrantsgrow,now becomesnarrower.TheMtolwnMts.(Korax,withthetwochief peaksofKionaandVardousia)arevisibleontheoppositeside ofthegulf.—59'/2M.Mourld;61M.Selianitika.Therail waycrossestheErineos,justbefore(62M.)Kamarae.Farther onthemountainsstretchrightdowntothesea,andinsomeplaces therailwayhashadtobecut intherocks.—Beyond(66M.) Lampiretherailwayiscarriedalongthe seaonloftyretaining wallsandironbridges.—70'^M.Psathdpyrgos,alsocalledZachou- liotika.—Thetrainnowcrossesa rushingmountaintorrent(dry insummer)byanironbridge,borneby108buttresses.—74^M. HagiosVasUios;76'/2M.Vernardeika. The railwaynowentersthecoast-plainofPatras,whichis coveredwithcurrant-plantations.Totherightof(77M.)RMon arethefortsofMoreaandRoumelia(p.33).—79 M.Vosditika. .80'/2M Patras,p. see28.ThestationliestotheN.ofthe town,neartheharbour. 29.FromCorinthtoNauplia. 40M Railwayin2'/ihrs.(fares7dr. 40,6dr.151.; return-ticket, validfortwodays,14dr.,9dr.85L; return-ticketfromAthenstoNauplia, validforfourdays,30dr.301.,20dr.).Through-trainfromAthensto Argosonceortwicedaily.PassengersfromAthensusuallychangecar riagesatCorinth.—Bestviewstotheleft. Corinth,seep.232.—Directlyonemergingfromthetownour linedivergesfromthelinetoPatras(R.28)andbeyondthe barracks(ontheleft)turnstotheS.towardsthelongchainofthe OneiaMts.(1910ft.).Nearthefootofthesemountains,tothe left,lies(5y2M.)Hexamilia,wheresometombswithfresco-paint ingshavebeendiscovered,neartheruinsofarudebrickbuilding oftheRomanperiod.—TotherigtappearsthesteepE.slopeof theAero-Corinth, surmountedbyitsVenetianbattlements,and to Nauplia. NEMEA. 29.Route.241 thanthepointedsummitsofPenteskouphiaandtherockypeaksof theruggedPalokorachi.Fartheron,totheleft,arechainsofgreen hills,amongwhichliesthevillageof(9Y2M.)Athikia(notvisible fromtherailway),knownastheplacewheretheso-calledTenean Apollowasfound(p.Lxxiii).Inthedistance,totheleft,isthe Arachnaeon(p.244).ShortlybeforereachingChiliomodiwesee tothelefta largehomestead('metochi'),whichbelongstothe conventofPhaneromeni,hiddeninagorgetotheW. W/2. M Chiliomodi.Thelinenowturnstothe"W.andtra versesthedomainoftheancientTenea,whichlay2'/2M.totheS., ontheflat-toppedhillabovethetwin-villagesofKleniaes(acor ruptionofKleonae),andformerlybelongedtoCorinth.—We thenenterthedomainofCorinth'ssmallrival,Kleonae,thechief placeinwhichisnow(I672M.)HagiosVasilios(rfmts.).Thean cienttownofKleonjBwassituatedonagentlehill,whichisvisible totheN.W.,risingfromtheplain,totherightofsmall a groveof trees; butonlya fewfragmentsof thewall, oldwhichwasabout 6ft.inthicknessanddefendedbytowers,nowremain.Theruins whichcrownthemountain-spurrisingabruptlyabovethevillageof HagiosVasiliosarethoseofamediaevalcastle. TherangeiscontinuedtowardstheW.,underthenameofthe TretonMis.,andisskirtedbytherailway,whichgraduallyascends, reachingitshighestpointat(20M.) Nemea.

The ancientruinedtempleofNemealiesabout3M.totheN.W. oftherailway,andisreachedbya pathwhichcrossesthehill andthendescendsintothelittlevalleyNemea of (1195ft.).Ajfew minutesbeforewequittheslopewenotice,totherightofthepath, awellsurroundedbysilverpoplars,whichperhapsmaybethean cientAdrasteia.Totheleftwecanstilldistinguishthecaveaof theancienttheatreandthestadion.AcaveontheKorakovouni above theseispopularlybelievedtohavebeentheretreatofthe Nemeanlion,slainbyHercules. The templeofZeusatNemeawasanationalsanctuaryofall thePeloponnesianGreeks,andlayina lonelywoodedregion,far fromallhabitations.Itwasperipteral,withsixcolumnsoneach end; nowonlythreecolumnsarestanding,oneofwhichbelonged totheE.front,andtheothers,withtheirentablature,tothepro- naos.Theshaftsofmostoftheothercolumnsliesidebyside in almostregularorder,astheyhavebeenoverturnedbyrepeated earthquakes.TheNemeangames,heldeverytwoyears,were founded,accordingtothelegend,tocommemoratethedeathof Opheltes(orArchemoros),sonoftheNemeankingLykourgos,and wererevivedbyHercules.—TotheS.ofthetempleclose andby theroadaretheruinsofmediaeval a church.TotheW.isthevil lageof Herdkleia,thenewsettlementofthevillagersevictedby Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 16 242 Route29. PHICHTIA. earthquakesfromthehigher-lyingKoutaomdii.Good-wineisgrown inthevalleyofNemea. About 2*/zM.totheW.ofthetempleliesthevillageHagios ofQeor- gios,and3M.fartheron,neartheriverAtopoi,are theinsignificantruins ofFhlius.TheDoricinhabitantsofthislittletownpermanentlymain tainedtheirindependenceofArgos; andinthePeloponneaianWarthey contributed4000hoplitestotheSpartanarmy.FromPhliustoLake Stymphalos(41/*hrs.),seep.296. BeyondthestationofNemeatherailwayslowlydescendstothe PassofDervenaki,acrosswhichtheancientroadfromCorinthto Naupliaalsoled.OnAug.6th,1822,theTurkishtroopsunder Dramalis,marchingfromCorinthtoNauplia,weremetatthispoint hytheGreeksunderKolokotronisandNikitas,butsucceededin forcingtheirpassage,thoughwithheavyloss.—Therailwaynow turnstotheS. Ase w entertheplainofArgoliswesee,totheleft,thehare andmassivesummitsoftheHagiosEliasandthe Sz&ra,between whichMycenseissituated.TheseaatNaupliasooncomesinsight. Theplainisfarfromfertile,exceptatitsverges(comp.Homer: 7roXu8li|nov,btTi<5fioTovApfoc,thethirsty,horBe-rearingArgos). 27!/2. M Phichtia-Mycenae.Mycenae(p.258)liesatthefoot oftheHagiosElias,onahill,thefirsteasyslopewhich of is continuedbya steeperascenttothesharply-definedplateauon thetop.ThespurattheW.baseoftheSzarawasthesiteofthe Herseon(p.257).Anembankmentleadsfromthestation to (IV2M.)thevillageofCharvati,wherethecustodianofthe anti quitiesofMycenaeresides(seep.258).—Totherightofthe railwayaretheruinsofanancientwatch-towerandthevillageof Phichtia. TheArgolicplainisboundedontheW.bytheArtemision (6815ft.)andothermountains;totheS. risethefortifiedheightof thePalamidiandthelowAcropolisofNauplia.Beyondthe(29M.) unimportantstationofKoutzopoditherailwaycrossesthePanitza, theancientInachoa,bymeansofanironbridge,andjustbefore reachingArgos,itpassesoverthebroadandstonychannelofthe Xerids,theancientCharadros,whichlaylikeamoatin frontof E.fortificationsofancientArgos. 33. M Argos,seep.264.Carriagetothe(y2M.)town,1 dr. —ThemainlinegoesontoTripolitza,seep.270. Argoss i connectedwithNaupliabymeansofbranch-railway, a withfivetrainsdaily.Theintermediatestationsare(35V2M.from Corinth)Dalaman&raand(37'/2M.)Tiryns,situatedclosethe to high-roadbetweenArgosandNaupliaandneartheancientfortress (seep.261). 40. M Nauplia,seep.249.ThestationissituatedattheN. baseofthePalamidi,nearthesuburbofPronia,andnotfarfrom theE.city-gate. 243 30. FromAthenstoNaupliaviaiEginaand Epidauros. Thisroutetakesthreedays.1stDay.JEgina.—2ndDay.Crossina sailing-boat(about15dr.)toEpidavrain3-8hrs.visittheruinsofthe ancientcityandproceedonthesameevening,ifpossible,tothe(3hrs.) Hieron.—3rdDay.FromtheHierontoNaupliain6V2hrs. MosttravellersvisittheHieronasanexcursionfromNauplia(adrive of8-9hrs.,thereandback; carr.about35fr.J.Anearlystartshouldbe made,andrefreshmentstaken. JEgina,seep.136.FiomiEginatravellersshouldmakean earlystart,asthedurationofthepassagedependsonthewind, andinsteadoftaking3 onlyhrs.mayheprotractedto8hrs.or evenlonger.Inlineweatherthesailbetweentheislands,withthe viewofthePeloponnesianmountains,isverybeautiful.Wesoonpass thelittleislandofMetdpi,belongingtotheConventofthePanagia atArgos,andthenAngistri,theancientKekryphaleia,wherethe Atheniansgaineda navalvictory(p.137).Onthemountain- slopeofthelatterislandliesafarm((jiEToyi)oftheahove-named convent;thechiefplaceoftheisland,Megalochdri[i.e.great village; 250inhab.),issituatedontheN.W.side.TotheS.W.of AngistriistheisletofDdrousa,andmoretotheW.lieKyraand therockyisletofAsphalatho.Opposite,onthemainlandtotheW., isthepromontoryofTrachili;andtotheleft(S.)risethewildand rivenmountainsofthevolcanicpeninsulaofMethana.TotheS. ofTrachiliandalittleinland,undertheshadowofaFrankish castle,liesthevillageofPiddaorNta-Epfdavros(44/2M.from Epidavra),whereon1stJan.,1822,the'AssemblyofEpidauros' tookplaoe,whichdeclaredtheindependenceofGreece(13thJan.), andissuedthe 'ConstituentStatuteofEpidauros'.Thevillage hasnow1180inhab.andabusybazaar.Thelemon-grovesonthe plainarethechiefsourceofwealth. We land onthetongue-shapedpeninsula,whichdividesthe harbourintwo,andancientlyborethetownofEpidauros.Near theN.bay,wherewedisembark,liesthevillageoftoEpidavra orPalaed-Epfdavros(500inhab.).Foodandlodging(4-5dr.per day)maybehadatthehouseofChristosOeorgiosSakelliot,nearthe chapelofHagiosNikolaos,whichmarksthesiteofatempleofHera. EpidauroswasthetownofAsklepios(^sculapius),thoughhis templewassituatednotinthetownitself,buttotheW.,ontheroad toArgos(Hieron,p.244).TheoriginalIonicpopulationgavewaytothe DoriansafterthereturnoftheHerakleidfe.Thesituationofthetown hasalwaysencouragedtradeandshipping.Inthecolonizingepochthe Epidaurianstookpossessionofj&gina(p.136),whichthenceforthcontin uedtobethechiefsupportoftheirpower.Theyhadcoloniesalsoon thedistantislandsofKos,Kalydnos,andNisyroi.Thealliancebetween EpidaurosandCorinthwasoftenveryclose;andindeed,afterthefall ofthepowerfultyrantProhles,theformercitybecameforashorttime a dependencyoftheother,atthattimegovernedbyPeriander.The lossof.flSgina,aboutB.C.580,putanendtothenavalinfluenceof Epidauros.ItthenformedanalliancewithSparta,towhich,inspite ofthedistancebetweenthecities,itfaithfullyadhered. 16* 244 Routt30. EPIDAUROS.FromAthens The citadelandtheolderpartofEpidauroswerebuiltuponthe already-mentionedpeninsula,nowcalledNisi,betweenthebays oftheharbour,ofwhichthesmalleronetotheN.isnow,asin antiquity,themostused.Thenewerandlowerpartofthetownlay inland,nearerthepresentvillage,butthereishardlyatraceit of tobeseen.ItcontainedtemplestoAsklepiosandtohiswife Epione,toDionysos, Artemis,andAphrodite. Theroadfromthevillagetothepeninsulamakesawidecurve roundtheN.bay,passingagoodspringandsomewater-works.The peninsulaisoccupiedbytwoheights,onetotheW.formingasort ofnaturaloutwork,andahigheronetotheE.,bothcoveredwith treesandshrubs.TheformerwasprobablythesiteoftheSanct uaryofAthenaKissaea,ofwhichasupportingwallstillstands.In ahollowtotheW.liesamarblebench.TheFortifications,which canbetracedonboththeheights,inspiteofnumerousinterruptions, arebuiltmostlyinthepolygonalstyle.Inalldirectionswecome uponlargerorsmallerfragmentsofwallsandbuildings,manyof themdatingfromByzantineor latemediaevaltimes.OntheN. vergeoftheE.heightareanumberofgraves,whichhavebeen opened. FromEpidaurostotheHieron,3hrs.Theroutetraverses theN.partofthefertile,grain-growingplainofEpidauros,which liesatthefootofa semicircleofgreymountains.Nearamillit turnstotheW.intothegapinthemountain-chain,throughwhich theancientroadtoArgosran.Thevalleyiswateredbyabrookand theslopesonbothsidesarethicklycoveredwithbrushwood.Im mediatelyinfrontrisesthebareandloftyArachnaeon(nowcalled Arna),thechiefmountainintheArgivepeninsula.Thehighest peak(3930ft.),nownamedHagiosElias,wasthesiteofaltarsto ZeusandHera,wheresacrificesandprayersforrainweremade.A littlefartheronourroute turnstotheS.,quitsthedirectroadto Ligourio,andpassesthroughalongrockygorgeintoanarrowvalley, whichstillbearsthenameofHieron(pronouncedJerd).Tolerable accommodationandfoodmaybeobtainedfromthekeeperofthe antiquities. TheHieronofEpidauroswasthemostcelebratedseatofthecult of Asklepios,thegodofhealing,whomKoronis,daughterofPhlegyas issaidtohavebornetoApollo,ontheneighbouringmountain ofTitlhionbelow). (seeNearlyallthesanctuariesofjEsculapius throughouttheentireGreekworld,includingthoseatAthens(p.65), Pergamon,andSmyrnatracedtheirorigin,directlyorindirectly,to thisshrine; and,indeed,thesacredserpentofthegod,which accompaniedalltheEpidauriancolonies,wasactuallycarriedas farasdistantRome,duringadestructivepestilence.Thesickfrom allGrecianlandsresortedtotheHieron; forinconnectionwiththe templewasa celebratedhospital,withdwellingsforthepriests (physicians)andthepatients,buildingsforgymnasticandmusical

to Nauplia. TflEHIERON. 30.Route.245 exercises,andotherappliances.Thosewhowerecuredtestified theirgratitudebyvotiveofferingsandinscriptions.Thesacred treasurywasplunderedseveraltimes,notablyononeoccasionby certainCilioianpirates,andinB.C.87 bySulla,whodevotedthe spoiltothepaymentofhissoldiers.OntheotherhandAntoninus Pius,afterwardsRomanemperor,causedbathsandtemplestobe erectedhereinthefirsthalfthe of2ndcenturyofourera. The almostlevelvalley,whichweenterfromtheN., isdotted withclumpsoftreesandshrubs,andisbonndedontheN.andS. bysmallandgenerallydrywater-courses.ThehilltotheN.is theabove-mentionedTitthion,or'Goat Mountain',onwhichthe goatsoftheherdAresthanasgavenourishmenttothenew-bom Asklepios.TotheS.E.risesMt.Kynortion,nowcalledCharani, onwhichstoodanancienttempletoApolloMaleotas. TheexcavationsoftheArchaeologicalSociety(p.94),carried onsince1881underthedirectionofM.Kavvadias,havebrought tolightthegreaterpartthe of sacredenclosure.t The mostInterestingdiscovery,thoughonlythelowerportion ispreserved,isthe'THOLos,acircularstructure107ft.indiameter, whichwaserectedbyPolykleitosandexcitedthewarmadmiration oftheancients.Itismentionedas'Thymele',i.e.sacrificialspot, inanancientstatementofaccounts.Acircularplatform,care fullyconstructedoflargeblocksofconglomerate,servedhereas thestylobateorcommonbasefortwoconcentricseriesofcolumns, ofwhichtheexteriorringwasDoric,whiletheinteriorringshowed thecombination—quiteunusualatsoearlyaperiod—of Ionic detailswithCorinthiancapitals.Threeothercircularwalls,con nectedwitheachotherbybeams,andinterruptedbyopenings, supportedthefloor,whichwasformedofflag-stones.Theruin asItstandscannot,ofcourse,conveyanadequateideaofitsfor mersplendour; butthe delicacyofthetechnicaldetailinwhatyet remainsstillcommandsadmirationandrecallstheeleganceofthe similarpartsintheErechtheionatAthens(pp.73,74).Theinterior wasadornedwithpaintingsbyPausias. TotheN.oftheTholosaretheremainsoftwoColonnades,and totheN.E.aretheruinsoftemple, a saidtobetheSanctuary ofAsklbpios.Thetemplewasperipteral,81ft.longand43ft. broad; andfromnumerousfragmentsfoundInthevicinity,the pedimentseemstohave beenadornedwithsculptures(nowin Athens,p.101),representing,ontheE.,abattleofCentaurs,and ontheW.,a contestbetweennudewarriorsandAmazons.Figures ofNereidsalsooccur.—Thepositionofotherruinsisindicated ontheaccompanyingplan.Thenumerousexedraescatteredover thesacredprecinct,servedasresting-places.Afewofthegrate fulinscriptionsofconvalescentshavebeenfound. omp Kavvaditu,Fouillesd'Epidaure,Vol.I.Athens,1893. 246 Route30. LIGOURIO. FromAthens The Theatre,whichliesonaspurof theKynortion,beyond thewater-coursetotheS., isthebestpreservedGreekstructureof thekind.Thebuildingandadornmentofthisedifice,whichexcelled allotherGreektheatresinbeautyandrichness,areattributedto Polykleitos.Arestorationappearstohavetakenplaceinthetime oftheRomans; buttheground-planofthemaindivisionswasleft unaltered.Itsacousticpropertiesareadmirable. TheAuditorium((7a»ea,xottov),withitsopeningtotheN.N.W.,was dividedbyabroadpassage(Didzoma),halfwayup,intoalowersection containing32rowsofseats,andanuppersectionwith20rows.Besides these,therewerethreerowsofseatsofhonour,twobeinginthediazoma (separatedbya passage6ft.hroad),andtheotherbelow,attheedge oftheorchestra.Thelowersectionofseatsisdividedinto13wedge- shapeddivisions(Kerkides)andtheupperinto25,byflightsofsteps 2ft.broad.Thehighestrowofseatsis193ft.fromtheorchestra,and 74ft.ahoveit.Behinditapassage,7ft.broad,ranalongtheoutside wallofthebuilding(2ft.thick),ofwhichthefoundationsalonenow remain.Infront,attheloweranglesofthe cavea,thiswallwascon tinuedtotheorchestrabymeansoftheso-calledAnalemmata,terminating onbothsidesin*anta?'onwhichformerlystoodstatues.Adjacentwere theParodoitentrances or totheorchestra. RoundtheOrchestrarana passage,wideningtowardsthestage andservingtocarryoffthewater.Theorchestraitself,acircularspace, 39Vsft-*ndiameter,wasabout8incheshigherthanthepassage, and wassurroundedwitha stoneparapet.Itsfloorwasnotflagged,asin theAtheniantheatres,butconsistedofearthbeatenhard,Exactlyinthe middlestandsacylindricalstone,2ft.4in.thick,withitsuppersurface hollowedout,saidtobethealtarofDionysos. The Stage,whichhasbeenfreedfromlateradditionsandisin comparativelygoodpreservation,appearsstilltopreservetheoriginalplan tionsofarinasthetheN.W.chiefcornerfoundationandthewallswholeareconcerned,upperpartalthoughofthebuildingtherestora^date fromRomantimes.Itconsistedofamainbuilding(Skene) atthehack, ofthedecorativewall(Proskenion)formerlyadornedwith14Ionic pilasters,andofthewings(Paraskenia),withtheentrancestotheorchestra, andtheside-entrancestothestage(comp.p. 58).Therecessesateach sideperhapscontainedBomanimperialstatues(LiviaandAugustus?). The visitorshouldexaminea numberoflargeReservoirs,to whichwaterisbroughtfromthehilltotheE.,andthewell-house atthebaseoftheTitthion,whichusedtoreceiveitswaterfroma reservoirmadeofstoneandplaster,14pacesbroadby45paceslong, onaflathillintheneighbourhood.Thesiteofthelastismarkedby thethickgrowthofshrubsroundtheedges.Thebasinandchan nelshavebeenseveraltimesrepairedinlatertimes.—Thereis alsoalargemediaevalreservoirontheKynortion. Museum.n O pedestalsinthe centreoftheMainRoomareanumber ofinscriptionsreferringtoacertainTitusStatilius,whowasoverloaded withhonoursbyEpidauros,Athens,andSparta; onthewalls,architec turalfragmentsfromtheTholos,etc.Thepedestalsinthe SideRoom bearlar^einscriptionsrelatingtothebuildingofthetempleofAaklepios andtheTholos;theinscriptionsonthewallsdescribemiraculouscures performedinthesanctuary. From thkHierontoNatjflia.6hrs.(carriage,seep.243). TheuninterestingroadrunsbetweenthehillsofTheokavtlSonthe rightandKotroniontheleft,leavesthehamletof Kortinitothe left,and(S/4hr.fromtheHieron)skirtsthebaseofthehillon to Nmiplia. POROS. 31.Route.247 which liesthevillageofLigourio"(1300inhab.).Onthehillare someremainsofanoldwall('Palseokastro'),andtherearesimilar ruinsfarthertotheE.,nearthechapelsofHagiosTaxiarchis(to theright)andHagiosDemetrios(totheleft).About heyond Ligourio,infield a totheright,standsachapelofHagiaMarina, withafewmuralfragments,andalittletotheE.arethefounda tionsofanancientSepulchralPyramid.Ontheroaditselfwepass anoldwell,withancientwash-troughs,anda chapelofHagios Nikolaos. About. 3M heyondLigouriotheoldbridle-pathvi£Katsingri (seebelow)divergestotheright.Theroadtraversesthedistrictof Soulinari,passingnearasmallancientstronghold,nowcalledKa- sarmi,perhapsmarkingthesiteoftheancientLessa,whichlayon theboundarybetweenEpidaurosandArgos.Theruinsconsistof massivewalls,towers,andgates,chieflyinthe polygonalstyle. Theroadpassesnomoredwellings,withtheexceptionoftw_, khanslyingneareachother,untilitreachesAria,2M.from Nauplia,withwhichitisconnectedbyanaqueduct.Wethen passthesculpturedLionmentionedatp.251andreachPr6nia,a suburbofNauplia(p.251). Theabove-mentionedBbidle-Path,inxjihr.afterthepartingofthe ways,reachestheruinsofanancientlittlefortress,nowcalledKastrdki touPhoniskou,whichresemblethoseofKasarmi.Wenextproceedacross abarrenplateau,seamedwithravines,andmakingaslightdetour,reach O/thr.)themonasteryofHagiosDemitriosKarakald,prettilysituated amongplanesandsilverpoplarsbythesidea ofbrook.Tolerablenight- quartersmaybeprocuredhere.Afteranotherfullhourwepassanother ancientfortress,constructedoflargepolygonalblocks,andshortlyafter wards(lJ/4hr.fromHagiosDemetrios)wereachKattingri,whereweare stillV/ihr.fromNauplia.

31.FromAthenstoNaupliabySea. Greek Steamers(pp.xix-xx)almostdaily,in12-14hrs.,eitherdirect orviaJEgina,Poros,Hydra,Spetsia,Chdli,and sometimesalsoAstros (faresbytheSerpieriCo.,dr. 1145,8dr.651.) Piraeus,seep.109.Boatmenareinwaitingatthestation (embarkation1, withluggage2dr.).—Thesteamer'srouteis either\i&Mgina(j>.135)ordirecttoPoros.TheloftyOros(p.139), conspicuousfromafar,risesattheS.extremityofjEgina.Oppo siteisthevolcanicpeninsulaofMethina,connectedwiththe Peloponnesusonlybyanarrowisthmus,andpresentinginitsbold cliffb oneofthemostcharacteristicformationsonthecoastof Greece.Onitschiefsummit,Cheltina(2430ft.),areseveralancient reservoirs,andtwosulphur-springsusedforcurativepurposesin formerdays.TheancienttownofMethanalayontheS.W.side, notfarfromthesiteofthepresentMegalochtirion.—TotheE. thecliffsofPetro-Karovorisefromthesea. ThesteamersailsroundtheislandofP6ros(12sq.M.),theancient Kalauria,and(4hrs.afterleavingthePiraus)touchesatthetown 248 Route31. HYDRA. ofPoros(twoXenodochia,fair; 4600inhab.).Poroswasformerly thechiefnavalstationofGreece,andcontainsanarsenalandfor tificationserectedunderthedirectionofBavarianofficers.On Aug.13th,1831,AdmiralMiaulis,whohadformedwithMavro- kordatosandKondouriotisasortofrivalgovernmentagainstPresi dentKapodistrias,setfiretopartthe ofGreekfleethere,inorderto preventitsdeliveryintothehandsoftheRussianadmiral Rikord, whichhadbeenorderedbyKapodistrias.Intheinteriorofthe island,about3/4hr.fromthetown,liethesubstructuresofafamous templeofPoseidon,whichformedthecentreoftheveryancient Kalaurian'AmphictyonicLeague'amongtheBea-portsontheSaronic GulfandtheBayofArgolis.ItwasinthistemplethatDemos thenes,fleeingfromthemyrmidonsofAntipater,viceroyofMace donia,poisonedhimselfonOct.12th,B.C.322. OnthemainlandoppositePorosareextensivelemon-grovesbelonging totheisland.NearthevillageofDamald,about6M.totheW.,lie theinsignificantruinsoftheancientTroezen,anIonicfoundationthat preservedmanyofitspeculiaritiesevenaftertheDoricimmigration.Ac cordingtothelegendTrcezenwasthesceneofthetragicdeathofthe virtuousHippolytos,whohadbeencalumniatedbyhiss'ep-motherPhsedra. Hishorses,suddenlyterrifiedbyPoseidon,rushedwildlyalongtheshore anddashedtheirmastertopieces. Farthern o arethecliffsofSkyli,theancientSkyllaeon,forming theE.spurofthemountainsofTrrezen.Thesteamernowenters theHermionicOulf,whichisboundedontheS.E.bythelongisland ofHydra,ontheS.W.bytheislandofDofoSs,and ontheW.and N.bytheterritoryoftheDryopo-DoriccityofHermidne,whichwas stillaplaceofimportanceundertheRomanemperors.Theruins ofthetown(includingatempleofPoseidon)lieonthespitof Kastri,quiteattheW.endofthebay,whereitislandlockedby CapeThermfsiontheN.andCapeMouzdkiontheS.Inll/4hr. afterleavingPoros,thesteamertouchesatHydra(6400inhab.), thepicturesquelysituatedcapitaloftheislandthe ofsamename. Sincethe18thcent,theAlbanianinhabitantsofHydrahaveshared withthoseSpetsae of andPsarathereputationbeingthe ofboldest BeamenintheLevant;andassuchtheytookthemostenthusiastic shareintheGrecianWarofIndependence.Themerchantships ofthethreeislands,transformedintoanavy,spreadtheinsurrec tionfarandwideoverthewholeArchipelago,andinflictedimmense lossontheTurkishfleet.AndreasMiaulis,theGreekadmiral, andLazarosKondouriotis,whosacrificednearlyhiswholeproperty forthecauseofGreece,werenativesofHydra. ThesteamernextpassestheislandsDokds of(theancient Aperopia)andTrtkeri,andCapeASmilianosandreaches(l3/4hr.) Spetsia(officiallySpetsae),with5200inhab.,thecapitalofanisland (theancientPityussa')hardlylessfamousthanHydraattheepoch oftheWarofIndependence. After touchingat(1/2hr.)Chili,onthemainland, thevessel enterstheBayofArgolis,andskirtsthewoodedcoast,withits NAUPLIA. 32.Boute.249 numerousbaysandislets,onwhicharethesitesoftheunim portant ancienttownsofMdsesandHalike.Intheinteriorofthe peninsulaofArgos,whichwasoriginallyindependentandwasnot reckonedapartofthedistrictofArgolisuntiltheRomanera,rise theDidyma(3525ft.)and(moretotheN.W.)theArachnaeon (p.244).After3hrs.morethesteamercastsanchorinthefine, andalwaysbusy,harhourofNauplia,theentrancetowhichis commandedbythesmallfortofBourzi,nowtheexecutioner's prison.(InGreecetheexecutionerisinvariablya convictupon whomsentenceofdeathhasbeenpassedbutremitted.)Weland inoneofthesmallboatsthatsurroundthesteamer(Y2dr.each pers.,withluggage1dr.); theboatmensometimesmakeexorbitant demands. 32. Nauplia.Tiryns.Argos.Mycenae. l'/2-2Days.Naupliamustberegardedastheheadquartersforthis excursion,asitistheonlyplacewherefairaccommodationcanhe ob tained.—AvisittoTiryns(I-IV2hr.)andArgos(Theatre,Larisa,best viewbyevening-light;about21/2hrs.)iseasilymadebyrailway(inthe intervalbetweentwotrains),possiblyonthewaytoorfromCorinth.A visittoMycenaeislessconvenient(exceptbycarriage)attheseasondur ingwhichonlyonetrainrunsdailyfromArgostoCorinth.Thisex peditiontakesabout3!/2hrs.onfootfromthestationofPhichtia-Mycena: andback.—Thosewhohireacarriageforthewholedaymaydrivevia TirynsandtheBtraeontoCharvati(3 hrs.),visitMycenaeonfoot(2!/2hrs.), anddrivefromCharvatitoArgos(2-272hrs.)andthencetoNaupliain IV2hr.more(ortaketheevening-trainfromArgostoNauplia,25min.).— Provisionsshouldbetaken. A thirddaymaybe devotedtotheHieronofEpidauros(R.30).Car riage,seebelow.—Apleasantvariationisaffordedbymakingthejourney onewaybysteamer(R.31; recommendedonthewaytoNauplia). Nauplia.—Hotels.HotelMtckn^:,withrestaurant,R.4,pens. 1-2V2dr.;the sonofthelandlordspeaksEnglishandFrench; Hoteldes Etrangees(XenodochiontonXenon),B.6B.4dr.,clean; HotelAga memnon,similarcharges; alltheseareneartheharbour.—Restaurant Olympia,inthe'Platta',tolerable; Cafe'sinthe'Platfa'andattheharbour. TheHorsesandCarriageshere(asinArgos)arecomparativelygood. Theyaretobefoundoutsidethetown-gatesandinthesuburbofPr6nia, butitisusualtohirethemthroughthelandlordofthehotel.Prices are littlelowerthaninAthens;carriagetoO/4hr.)Tiryns7dr.,to(2!/2hrs.) Mycense25,toMycenseandbackbyArgos30dr.totheHieronofEpi dauros35dr.j horsefora tourofseveraldays,7-8dr.perday,forone day,notreturningtoNauplia,10dr. Nauplia(Navplia)orNauplion,calledbytheItaliansNapolidi Romania,isarisinglittletrading-townwith5450inhab.,forthe mostpartimmigrantsHydra fromandotherGrecianislands.The no-marchoftheprovinceofArgolis,anarchbishop,andvarious tribunalshavetheir seatshere.Thebeautifulandhealthysitua tionofthetown,itshandsomenewbuildings,andtheun-Grecian cleannessofthestreets,invitethetravellertoastayofsometime. Thehousesarecongregatedonthenarrowspacebetweentherocky fastnessofPalamidi,harbour-rock the ofItsh-Kaleh,whichjuts outboldlyintothesea,andthemoatwhichdividesthetown-domain 250 Route32. NAUPLIA. fromthemainland.Themostfrequentedspotsarethemainsquare, inwhichisaMonumenttoDemetriosYpstlantis(pp.266,269),and thepromenadesattheharbourintheevening. ThenamesofNauplios(seaman)andofhissonsNausimedon(ship master)and(Eax(steersman), whicharecloselyconnectedwiththe legendaryoriginofNauplia,aswellasthesituationoftheancienttown onapeninsulanotinimmediatecontactwiththeplain,seemtoprovethat itsfoundersarrivedbysea.Theforeignelementisrepresentedbythe inventivePalamedet^towhomisattributedthefirstlighthouse,the ear liestuseofmastsandofscales,andtheperfectingofalphabeticwriting. Theoppositionofthehaventotheinlandtownsisalsotypifiedbythe legendofthestrifebetwixtPoseidon,whowashighlyreverencedin Nauplia,andHera,thechiefgoddessoftheArgives.Naupliatookpart intheoriginallyIonicAmphictyonyofKalauria,mentionedatp.248. In thehistoricalperiodwefindNaupliaasthecommonharbourofthe Argolicstates,afterArgosbadtakenthecityduringthe2ndMessenian warandexpelledtheinhabitants,whohadformedanalliancewithSparta. LittleisknownofNaupliainlaterantiquity,butitneversocompletely lostitsimportanceasthePirreus. After thecaptureofConstantinoplebytheCrusadersin1204,the ByzantinegovernorLeonSgourossettledinNauplia.Hiseffortstofound aGreekmonarchyfailed,butNaupliaremainedinthepossessionofthe Greeksuntil1247.Ascapitalthe oflaterFrankishduchyofArgosit passedsubsequentlytotheVenetians,wholostitintheirturntoSultan SuleimanII.in1540.In1686CountKdnigsmark^oneofMorosini'ssub ordinates,oncemoreacquireditfortheRepublicofSt.Markt butin 1715itagainfellintothehandsoftheTurks. Venetiansand Turksla bouredalternatelyontheconstructionofthefortressofPalamidi,which wasfinallyheldtobeimpregnable.ItssurprisalbytheGreeksonthe stormynightofthe 30thNovember(St,Andrew'sDay),1822,contributed onthisaccountallthemoretotheencouragementoftheinsurgents, whomaintainedthemselvesherewhiletherestofthePeloponnesus wasforcedtosubmittotheruthlessIbrahimPasha.Thebattleof Navarino(p.355)rescuedthefortressfroma criticalsiege.Afterthe ConferenceofLondon(p.lxii)thefirstGreekgovernmentfixeditsseat atNauplia,anditwasherethatthefirstpresident,JohnKapodistriast wasmurderedbythebrothersMauromichalisfromprivateanimosity, ashewasenteringthechurchofSt.Spiridion(Oct.9th,1831).OnJan uary25th,1833,thenewly-electedkingOthomadehisentryintoNauplia; butinthe followingyeartheseatofgovernmentwastransferredtoAthens. The harbourrockofItsh-Kaleh,washedhytheseaonthe"W. andS.,wastheancientAcropolisofNauplia,andtheoriginal walls,constructedofpolygonalblocks, havebeenpartlyusedas foundationsforthe mediaevalandmodernfortifications.Various remainsofancientrock-cuttings,steps,reservoirs,andthelike, arestillvisible.Thesteepslopesarethicklyovergrownwithcac tus.TheE.extremityoftherocky heightwasformerlyunitedwith thePalamidi,butthelowconnectingridgehasbeenblastedaway. Accesstothelongnarrowopenspace,withthelargebarracksand aprison,isobtainedbyabroadflightofstepsInthemiddleofthe N.side."WemaywalkalongtheN.edgeofthehilltotheW.end andreturnbytheS.side,passingaroundtowerinthemiddleof thefortress,andtheremainsofsquare a Venetiantower.Asmall dark-colouredgateattheE.andlowestpartoftheplateaucon ductstotheheadofthebaybetweenItsh-KalehandthePalamidi. Thefortressof*Palamidi,thejointworkoftheVenetiansand

NAUPLIA. 32.Route.251 the Turks,issituatedonthesummitofsteep a eminence(706ft.), whichrisesontheS.andS.E.ofthetown.Accessisohtainedby meansof astairof857stepsmadebytheVenetians.Thebuild ingisnowoccupiedonlyasaprison.Savantsrefusetoperceive inthenameofthefortressanymerelymediaevalreminiscenceof theancientheroPalamedesbutmaintainthatthehillallalong haspreserveditsclassicalappellation.Theseparateworks have alsoreceivedclassictitlesfromthemodernGreeks,Buehas'Mil- tiades','Leonidas','Epaminondas',and'Achilles'.Thelastof theseisalsoknownbyitsTurkishnameof'Giourousi',or'Attack'. Those whowishtoinspecttheinteriorthe offortressapplyfora pass(aSeia)atthecommandant'squarters(tppoupapxeiov),inthetown, eitherpersonallyorthroughthe landlordof theirhotel.Thevisitoris accompaniedbyanofficerorsoldier.Whentheprisoners,allofwhom havebeenconvictedofseriousoffences,areatexerciseintheyard,they areallowedto offertovisitors,acrossthebarricade,carvedarticlesof vari ouskindsatlowprices.The*ViewembracespartofthebayofArgolis andtheentireArgiveplain.TotheN.E.risestheAcropolisofKatsingri (p.247),totheN.closebyTiryns(seebelow),beyondwhich*wecanmake outthegeneraloutlinesofthesiteofMycenae(p.258);totheN.W.isArgost withtheAcropolisofLarisa(p.256);ontheW.bank,oppositeNauplia, liesMyti(p.268);andfarthertotheS.thecastleofAstros(p.266)pro jectsintothesea. NumerousVenetianinscriptions, somebearingthelionofSt. Mark,havebeenbuiltintothefortificationsonthetwohills,and elsewhere; oneoutsidethecity-gatereferstoFrancescoMorosini in1687. Thebroadmoat, nowhalfdry, isspannedbyastonebridgeof 7arches.Passingtherailway-stationwereachC/2M.)thesuburb ofPrdnia(Ilp6\oia;1760inhab.),near which,ontheroadtoAria (p.247),avillagethe toW.,isthefigureofalionhewninthe rockbythesculptorSiegel,attheinstanceofLewisI.of Bavaria, inmemoryoftheBavariantroopswhodiedinGreecein1833-34. 2AboutV hr.totheE.ofPrdnialiesalittlenunneryknownasHagia Moni,thewaytowhichleadsthroughvineyardsandolive-groves.Inthe conventgardenafantasticallyornamentedfountainisfedfromanancient shaftinthevicinity; andherewemayrecognizewithoutanydoubtthe renownedstreamofKAnathos^inwhichHerarenewedhervirginityevery spring.Outsidethegarden,tothe"N.W.,isawell-likeentrancetosome subterraneanpassages,probablyusedasaqueducts. Thosewhosetimepermitsmayfinditinterestingtovisitthecave- tombsontheN.E.slopeofthePalamldi,totheE.ofPrdnia.Thesewere foundtocontainobjectsresemblingthosediscoveredatMycense. From NaupliatoAkgos,S'/jM.,railway,seep.242(carriage in hr.,seep.249).Theroad passesnearthe(25min.)hillof HagiosElias,whichyieldedthestonefortheCyclopeanwallsof Tiryns.About2i/2M.fromNauplialietheruins of Tiryns,tothe N.of adilapidatedagriculturalschool,ontherightoftheroad, ■whichisherelinedhysilverpoplars.(Therailway-stationliesto theleftofthispoint.)Theguardianoftheantiquities(cpiSXaS rip^aiOTifiTar/)actsguide as (fee50c). Tirjlia(Tfpuvs)isthemostcelebratedandcertainlythemost 252 Route32. TIRYNS. FromNauplia ancient exampleoftheCyclopeanstyleofbuilding.Homerrefersto itswallsascharacteristicandspeaksofitasthe'wall-girtTiryns' (TipuviWte tetyloeoaav,II.II.659); andPausanias(p.cx)asserts that,likeMycenae,it isnolesswonderfulthantheEgyptian pyramids.Therockyeminence,whichrisesonly30-60ft.above theplain,issurroundedbyawallofmassiveandalmostunhewn blocks,from6-10feetlongand3ft.wide,placedinregular layers andconnectedwith eachotherbymeansofsmallerstones.The originalheightofthewallhasbeenestimated,fromtheblocks that liescatteredaround,atabout65ft.; whileitsaveragethickness was26ft.Therock-citadelis980ft.longandnearly330ft.broad. Itsfiattopconsistsof asmallerandlowerN.portionandabroader andlongerS.portion.Theformer,orLowerCastle,containedthe dwellingsoftheattendantsandthestablesforthehorsesand cattle;theUpperCastlewasoccupiedbythelordlyowner.The chiefentrancetothecastlewasinthemiddleoftheE.side; anothergatelayontheW.side,andtherewereseveralsmallposterns atotherpoints. Theascriptionofthebuildingof thewallstotheCyclopes,whohad beeninvitedfromLyciabyProetos,thebrotherofKingAkrisiosofArgos, isinallprobabilityareferencetosomeimmigrationfromAsiaMinor. Subsequently,accordingtothelegend,TirynswasruledbyPerseus,the grandsonofAkrisios,whoshrankfromtakingtheArgivekingdomof hisgrandfather,whomhe hadaccidentallykilled.Anotherlegendmakes TirynsthebirthplaceofHercules,thesonofZeusandAlkmene, the granddaughterofPerseus.TheimportanceofTirynsfallsentirely withinthemythicalperiod; foralthoughinconjunctionwithMycenaait sent400mentothebattle of Platasa479),itwas (B.C.destroyedinB.C.463 bythejealousArgives,andthesubsequentsettlementsobtainednoim portance.Since,therefore,theunhewnblocksappearnevertohave beenusedforanyotherbuildingpurpose,wenowseethefortressines sentiallythesameconditionasimmediatelyafteritsdestruction. At twopoints(ontheS.andS.E.)thewallisconsiderably thicker,andcontainsvariouschambersandcoveredpassages,which wereusedasstorehouses.Theseso-calledOaUeries,whichalone hadbeendiscoveredbefore1885,areamongthemost remarkable relicsoftheprehistoricage.Aflightofstonestepsdescendsto thesechambers,whiletheS.E.gallery(thelongerandbetterpre served)mayalsobereachedfromwithout,asthewallismostru inousonthatside.Doorsresemblingpointedarchesfrom lead thesepassagestothe adjoiningChambers,someofwhichhavebeen clearedout(twoontheS.W.,fourontheS.),whileothersremain fullofblocksof stone.Similararrangementswere foundinthe ancientcitadelofCarthage.Theroofsofthegalleriesandchambers arenotvaulted,butareformedbyhorizontalandgraduallyover lappinglayersofprojectingstones(comp.p.259).IntheS.E. gallerythesurfaceofthestoneshasbeenwornperfectlysmoothby thecloselypackedflocksofsheep,whichhaveuseditas afoldfor oenturles. UnusualinteresthasattachedtotheruinsofTirynssincethe to Argos. TIRYNS. 32.Route.253 excavationsofDr.SchliemannandDr.Dorpfeld,carriedoninthe uppercastlein1884-1885,broughttolighttheplanofapalaceof theHomerioepoch.+ WebeginourinspectionwiththeMainEn trancethe inmiddleoftheE.side.Fromtheplainthisentrance isreachedbyaninclinedplaneorramp,constructedoflargeblocks ofstone,whichendsatamassivetower23ft.highand34x24ft. wide.Thiswholearrangementisinaccordancewiththeancient rulesoftheartoffortificationasreferredto atp.119.Thegate wayatthetop,totheright,opensin theinterioronapassage runningN.andS.Followingthisthe to S.for25-30paces,we reachasecondruinousGate(PI.1),whichresemblestheLionGate ofMycense(p.260)inproportionsandstructure.Thegate-postsare IO1/2ft.highand4'/sft.broad; thattotheW.isstillentire,that totheE.isbrokeninhalf.Projectingatrightanglesfromthein nerfaceofeachaspecialdoor-rebateordoor-caseiswrought,and inthethreshold,immediatelybehindeachstanchionofthedoor-case, isaroundhole(probablycorrespondingtosimilarholesinabeam overhead)forthe receptionofthepivots of theThe hinges.holes inthedoor-posts,halfwayup,wereusedforastrongbar,which couldbethruBthomeintoanopeninginthewallwhenthedoor wasopen.Theothergatesseemtohavebeensimilarlyarranged. nFarthero wereachanoblongspace,boundedontheleftbya colonnadeontheouterwall(abovetheS.E.gallerymentionedat p.252)andthe onrightpartlybythewallofthe palaceandpartly byalargeGateway(PI.2).Thelatter,likethePropylasaatAthens, consistsofthegateproperinthecentre,andprojectingporticosat thesides.Theporticosareeachprovidedwithtwocolumnsbetween antse.ThisgateleadstoalargeInnerCourt,surroundedbydwell ing-roomsandcolonnades.TheW.sideofthecourthasbeende stroyedbyalandslip.AttheN.W.cornerstoodasmallerGateway (PI.3),nowonlypartlyrecognisable,whichwasadjoinedontheN. bythemostimportantpartofthepalace,consistingoftheMen's Hallandtheroomsadjoiningit. Heree w firstreachtheAule,arectangularcourt,66ft.long and51'/2ft.broad,whichwasformerlysurroundedbycolonnades, asisprovedbythestillextantbasesofthecolumns.Totheright oftheentrance,onthepavementinfrontoftheS.wall,standsa squareblockofmasonry,witharoundholeinthemiddle,which marksthepositionofthelargeDomesticAltar(PI.4). Oppositethealtararetwo lowstepsleadingto asmall Court (PI.5),withthreedoorways,andtoa Vestibule6). (PI.Thelatter Isconnectedbyadoorway,6'/2ft.wide,withtheMen'sApartment (Afegaron; PI.7),whichis38i/2ft.longand32ft.wide.There arenoholesforhingesinthisdoorway,anditmayhavebeen fComp.'Tiryns,derprahistorischePalastderKonigevonTiryns', vonDr.Heinr.Schliemann,raitBeitriigenvonDr.W.Dorpfeld(Leipzig, 1886;EnglishtranslationpublishedbyJohnMurray,London,1886). 254 Route32. ARGOS. yclosedb a curtainandnotbyadoor.TheMen'sRoomwascov eredwitharoofwithbeamssupportedbyfourinteriorcolumns, tracesofwhichstillremain.Withinthesquareformedbythese columnslaytheopenfireplace,wheremealswerepreparedand round whichgatheredthechieftainandhismen.Thesmokepro bablyescapedthroughasquareopeningintheceiling,whichmay havebeenprotectedbyanexternalcaporcovering,openatthe sides.Theflooringoftheroomconsistedofahard limecement. Nearthebottomofthewalltotheleftoftheentranceareremains ofanalabasterlining,suchasHomerdescribes.[Thewallrunning lengthwisethroughthecourt,thevestibule,andtheMegaron,ev identlybelongstoalaterbuilding; probablyhere,asatMycenaB (p.261),atemplewaserectedontheruinsoftheancientpalace.] To theE.andW.oftheprincipalpartof thepalacelayacon siderablenumberofsmallerchambers,includingtheBathroom (PI.8; withafloorconsistingofonelargeslaboflimestone,on whichthebath-tubstood),andtheWomen'sApartments.Thelast hadnodirectcommunicationwiththemen'sapartments.Thechief Women'sRoom(PI.11; 25ft.longand18ft.broad)resemblesthe Megaroninarrangement.Asmallportionoftheinnerwall,adorned withpainting,hasbeenpreservedintheS.E.corner. The shaft-likeopeningsindifferentpartsofthepalaceweremade duringtheexcavationsofDr.Schliemannin1876.—Amongtheother tracesoflaterbuildingsamongthearchaicruinsare thefoundationsof a ByzantineChurch(PI. 12),intheS.partoftheinnercourt,andseveral Byzantinetombs(intheW.porticoofthegreatgateway). WeleavethecastlebythesmalldoorontheW.side,where 55stepsoftheancientstaircasearestillpreserved.Theloweren tranceisprotectedbyasemicircularoutwork. Argos liesabout4'/2M.fromTiryns.Halfway,neartheham letofDalamandra,isatavern.ThesmallbedsoftheInachosand theChdradros(p.242; generallydry),whiohwecrossbeyondthe tavern,unitealittlefartherdown; butthelittlerivermakesits waytotheseaonlywhenit isswollenbythewinter-rains. Argos.Accommodation,ofnoverycomfortablecharacter,maybe obtainedattheXenodochi'aofDanaosPtiilipas, andbothinthePlati'a,with dirtyeating-houses.—CarriagetoCharvatiabout8dr.—Railwayto Phichtid(Chawati,Mycenae)andtoNauplia,seep.242?toTripolitza, seep.268. Argos,a townof9600inhab.,withlow,red-roofedhouses, liesattheE. baseoftheimposingAcropolisof Ldrisa,andextends fromthelowmoundsurmountedbytheChapelofSt.Eliastothe sea.Fromalittledistancetheplacelookslikeavillage,butas weapproach,itassumesmoreandmoretheaspectofatown.On market-daysespeciallyitpresentsaverybusyappearance.The Burroundingplain,partofwhichiscoveredwithswamps,isnow morebarrenthaninantiquity; butitisgraduallybeingwonback tocultivation. ARGOS. 32.Route.255 The nameArgot,whichthecitysharedwiththebroadplainthrough whichtheInachosflows,wasitselfusedtosignify'plain1;justasthe nameLdrtsa,whichhasbeengiventothecitadel,wasa commonPe- lasgiantermforanacropolis.Thesefactsinthemselvesprovethedo minatingimportanceofthetownforthewholedistrict;butadditional proofisofferedbytheearlyGrecianmyths,inwhichArgosandThebes (p.176)arebyfarthemostprominentoftheGreekcities.Herawasthe goddessheldinhighestreverenceatArgos,andshewasrepresentedas havingwonthelandincontestwithPoseidon,asAthenawonAttica. Phoroneus,asonoftheriver-godInachosandtheOceanidMelia,appears astherulerofArgosintheearliestmyths.Danaos—acollectivename fortheagriculturalandwarliketribeoftheDanate—issaidtohave migratedhitherfromEgyptatalaterdate,andtohavetransformedthe landfromabarrenwastetoafertileandwell-wateredplain.Thecon nectionbetweenhiseffortsandthedrawingofwaterbytheDanaVdsin theunder-worldisunmistakeable,for,accordingtotheearlyideasofthe Greeks,whoasyethadnonotionofpunishmentafterdeath,theywere simplycarryingonstilltheoccupationthathadbusiedthemonearth (comp.p.lxxxi).ThestrifebetwixthisdescendantsAkrisiosandProetos ledtothefoundationofTirynsandthe otherstrongcitiesoftheplain. UndertheforeigndynastyofthePelopidasMycenaebecamethecapitalof thecountry;andtheArgivesunderDiomedes,liketheotherGreeks,were subjecttoAgamemnonofMycenae. After theoccupationofthePeloponnesusbytheDorians,thefamily ofTemenos,theoldestofthethreeHerakleidae,reignedinArgos,which becamethemother-cityofDorickingdomsinEpidauros,Troezen,Sikyon, andCorinth.ThetenthindescentfromTemenoswasPheidon,oneof themostremarkablemeninthehistoryofthePeloponnesus,whoacquir edsomuchindependenceforthethrone,thatinspiteofhisroyalan cestryhewasdescribedasatyrant.HedefeatedtheSpartansatHyfliee in B.C.669,andextendedhispowerovertheentireN.andE. ofthePe loponnesus;whileindomesticaffairshemadeanewdeparturebythe introductionofan improvedsystemofweightsandmeasuresandcoinage, closelyresemblingtheearlierinventionsoftheGreekcitiesinAsia Minor.InthewarswithSparta,whichfromthistimeconstitutethe greaterpartofthehistoryofthetown,Argosgrewgraduallyweaker, anditsjurisdictionbecameatlastrestrictedtoitsownimmediateen virons.ItwasnotuntilafterthePersianWarsthatitrecoveredenough vigourtodestroyMycenaeandTirynsandtotransfertheirinhabitants toitself.LateronwestilltlndArgos, secondonlytoCorinthinthe Peloponnesusforsizeandpopulation, amongtheconstantenemiesof Sparta.ItjoinedtheAchaeanleagueandinB.C.146passedwiththe restofGreeceintothepowerofRome.—FortheArgiveSchoolopArt, ofwhichPolyfcleitoswasthe'brightparticularstar',comp.p.xci. In thePlatfa,principal or square,^M. fromtherailway- station,liethechiefchurchandtheTown-House(Demarchfa). MostofthesculpturesformerlyinthelatterarenowatAthens. The factthatin thewholecourseofitslonghistoryArgoshas neverbeenuninhabited,andthatbothinthemiddleagesandin moremoderntimesundertheFranksandTurksitwasaplaceof someimportance, isthe reasonwhysofewremainsofancient Greekbuildingsarenowextant.ThebuildingsontheW.side of themarket-place,whichlayatthebaseoftheLarisa,wereof greatantiquity,andafewremainsofthesearestillextant. The mostnotableistheTheatre,ashallowsemicirclehewnin therock,ontheS.E.sideoftheLarisa.Itssiteiseasilyfoundfrom thelargeruinof aRomanbrickedificeinfrontofit.Thetiersof seatsaredividedintothreesectionsbytwocorridors; andinthe 256 Route32. LARISA. middleisaflightofstepsleadingfromthetoptothehottom.Itis estimatedtohavecontainedroomfor20,000spectators.OnDecember 12th,1821,thenationalassemblyofGreekssummonedbyDemetrios Ypsilantismethere,butitwasafterwardstransferredtoEpidauros. —AlittletotheS.ofthetheatre,butquiteapartfromit,are twentystepsorrowsofseats,alsohewnoutof therock.—TotheN. ofthetheatreandfartheralongthebrowofthehill,beyondaspot wheretheroekhasbeensmoothed,extendstheRetainingWallof aTerrace,about100ft.long,partlyconsistingofpolygonalblocks. Inthecentreisadoor,nowblockedwithrubbish,andattheN.E. cornerisanalmostobliteratedrelief,withaninscriptionofthree lines.Thechamberontheterraceabove,constructedonandin therock,containsanichewiththemouthofanarrowrock-channel, and wasprobablythewell-houseofanancientsanctuary. If thetravellerhavesufficienttimeheshouldnotomittheas centof theacropolis"Larisa.Aboutl'/2nr- i9sufficientfor the excursionthereandback.TheroadatfirstasoendsontheS.E. sideofthehillbelowtheconspicuouswhitePanagfaConvent,and finallyreachesthetopbyasteepinclineontheS.side.Themediae valcitadelwhichcrownsthesummit(950ft.; hr.)hasbeenthe successiveholdofByzantines,Franks,Venetians,andTurks; and behinditsrampartsin1822DemetriosYpsilantisgallantlyde fendedhimselfagainsttheTurkishtroopsofDramalis.Theworks consistofanouterandaninnerenceinte,restingalmostexactly ontheancientfoundations.Aportionofa finepolygonalwall, about60paceslong,is stillpreservedontheE.sideoftheinner enceinte.Theancientreservoirs,whicharestillextant,were usedinthemiddleages; theoldestlieswithintheinnerwall. Theapexofthehill,onwhichisthefinalfortification,commands afineviewovertheArgolicplain,boundedontheE.bytheheight ofAraohnaeon(p.244)andontheW.bytheArtemision(p.242). ThespurprojectingfromthelattertowardstheLarisa,fromwhich, however,itisseparatedbyadeepdepression,iscalledLykone.To theN.risesthetabularMt.Phouka(p.238).TotheS.E.lieNau- plia,withthe Palamidi,andthebayofArgolis.—Onthesummit of theLykoneareafewscantyremainsofatempleofArtemisOrthia, onceadornedwithstatuesbyPolykleitos. To theN.ofArgosrisestheround-toppedHillofHaqiosElias (about250ft.),theanoientnameofwhichseemstohavebeen Aspis,fromitsresemblancetothecurvedsurfaceofanovalshield. Itssummitwasencircledbyawall,stillexistingininterrupted fragments,andsoformedasecondacropolisforthetown.Onthe slopenextArgosaretheremainsofaflightofsteps; andabout 120pacestotheS.ofthepresentChapelofSt.Elias(on thesum mit)isasubterraneanpassage,about40paceslong.Thesidesof thispassagearelinedwithCyclopeanmasonry,buttheroofing stoneshavebeenremoved. THE HEREON. 32.Boute.257 Fkom NaupliatoCharvativiatheHbilson,4hrs.Theroad runspastthesuhurbofPrdnia(p.251)andnearTiryns(p.251). Fartheronwedivergetotherightfromthehigh-road,andproceed viaKoHtsito(l'/2nr0thelargevillageofBirvaka.About,/iM. onthissideofBervaka,totheleftoftheroad,liesaPanagfaChapel, withnumerousancientinscriptionsandsculpturesbuiltintoits walls(amongothersa'FuneralBanquet'highup, nearoneofthe comers),andsomefragmentsofpottery.Therearealsootherchapels andmediaevalruinsintheneighbourhood,amongwhichsimilar relicsmaybediscovered. nFarthero weseetheCyclopeanwallsoftheelevatedfortress ofMidea,about%hr.totheE.Mideaissaidtohavebeenfounded byPerseus,whowassucceededbyElektryon,thefatherofAlk- mene,thefavouriteofZensandmotherofHercules.Theeasiest ascent(onfoot)beginsatthewindmillsofPoulakfda,nearthevil lageofDendra. After passingPlatanttsiandAniphtwereach(8/4hr.from Bervaka)thelargevillageofChdnika,about8/4M.beyondwhich areseveralruinedchapels.Atthefirstofthese,thatHagios of Nikdlaos,afield-pathdivergestotheright,leadingin1/4hr.to a lowspurofMt.EuboeaonwhichissituatedtheHeraeon,thegrey retaining-wallofwhichcameintosightaswequittedChonika. Thesite,whichiscalledbytheinhabitantssimplythePalaedkastro, isenclosedontheN.W.andS.E.by twobrooks,incorrectlyidenti fiedwiththeancientEleutheriosandAslerion. TheHereeonwasthenationalsanctuaryofArgolis,corres pondingtothetemplesoftheAcropolisatAthens.Theoriginal buildingwasdestroyedbyafireinB.C.423,butthearchitect EupolemosofArgoserecteda splendidnewedifice,ofwhich Pausaniashasleftusaminutedescription.Excavationsrecently resumedbytheAmericanSchool(p.36)showthatthiswasa Doricperipteraltemplewithsixcolumnsateachend,andwith unusuallywidefoundation-walls,withthreesteps.Thewallofthe cella,oflimestonebelowandofPorosstoneabove,waspartly hewnoutoftherock.Thecolumnsintheinterioraresupported bypillarsinsteadofbyacontinuousfoundation-wall.Thecella containedawoodenimageofHera,broughthitherbytheArgives fromtheconqueredTiryns,andachryselephantinestatueofthe samegoddessfrom thehandofPolykleitos(p.xoii).There liefsonthemetopesrepresentedthecontestswiththegiants, thebirthZeus, of andthevictoryoftheGreeksovertheTrojans. Afewscantyrelicsofthemanyothersculptureswhichwereonce collectedherearenowatAthens.—Theancienttemplestoodupon aterrace,supportedbythewallofunhewnblocksmentionedabove. Itwastheplace,accordingtothelegend,wheretheleadersofthe expeditionagainstTroysworeallegiancetoAgamemnon,andwhere KleobisandBitonlaidthemselvesdowntoaneternalsleepafter Baedekeb'sGreece.2ndEdit. 17 258 Route32. MYCEN.E. havingtakentheplacesofthetardyhorsesinthechariotoftheir mother,apriestessofHera,andthemselvesdrawnherfromArgos tothetemple. A festalroadledfromtheHerseontoMycense,towhichthe sanctnaryoriginallybelonged.Weretraceoursteps,passinga half-sunkenvaultedtomb,likethoseatMycenae(p.269),tothe chapelofSt.Nicholas; andinlessthananhourreachtheroad from ArgostoCorinth,atasmallkhan,3/iM.belowCharvati. The smallAlbanianvillageofCharvati,thenearestinhabited placetoMycense,liesabout25min.fromtherailway-stationof Phichtia-Mycenae(p.242).PetrotChristdpoulot,thekeeper(cp6X(x£) oftheMycenianantiquities,livesattheS.endofCharvatiand accompaniesvisitorstotheruins(feel-2dr.).Nearhishouseisa smallmuseum,wherealsotravellersmayobtainaccommodationand foodata pinch.Carriagesarequittedhere. Mycenselieson oneofthespursrisingfromtheN.E.vergeof theArgolicplain,attheentrancetoaglenbetweenthetwosum mitsofHagiosEllas(2460ft.)ontheN.andZara(1970ft.)on theS.Travellersdonotcatchsightoftheruinsrisingintheangle ofthemountainuntiltheyarerathernear{comp.Homer,\i'jyjp 'ApvE04,'intheinnermostcornerofArgos').Therubbish-heaps whichdisfiguretheS.W.sideofthewalls,werethrownupduring theexcavationsbyDr.HeinrichSchliernann,whoseunexpectedly richdiscoveries(p.98)againattractedattentiontothisremote corner. Perseusis thelegendaryfounderofMycenee,andissaidtohave raiseditsmassivewallswiththe belpofCyclopesfromLycia.Hisgreat- great-grandsonwasSthenelos,whosesonEttrystheusobtainedthelordship insteadofHercules,inconsequenceofhisbirth,throughHera'sinflu ence,havingtakenplacebeforethatofthehero.Theprincesofthe houseofPelops,whoafterwardsruledhere,tracedtheirdescentfromthe famousPhrygiankingTantalos.Theyaresaidtohaveinheritedthe townanditsdomainsafterthedeathofEurystheus; butitisperhaps moreprobablethattheforeignimmigrantsmadethemselvesmastersof theplacebyforce.Myceneewasthe sceneoftheterriblelegendofthe quarrelsofAtreusandThyestes^thesonsofPelops; andAgamemnon,the sonofAtreus,hadhisseathere,describedbyHomeras'well-built' (dux-rfuevov7rroMe&pov,II.it.69)and'aboundingingold*(ito^u'xpoffo?, II.vn.180i Od.in.305).Agamemnonappearsnotonlyasprinceofthe districtroundMycensebutalsoasthechiefandleaderofalltheGreeks ofthemainlandandislands,atwhoseheadhesailedagainstTroy. AfterhisreturnhewasmurderedbyjEgisthos,theloverofhiswife Klytaemnestra^ butalthoughOrestes^Agamemnon'sonlyson,avengedhis father'sdeathwhenhehadgrownup, thelegenddoes notrepresenthim ashavingregainedthethrone.ThePelopideewereprobablyconquered bytheimmigratingHerakleidee.ThemightofMyceneehaddwindledlong beforethedawnofhistory.AmongthosewhofellatThermopylae,how ever,80Myceniansarementioned; andatthebattleofPlateeatheunited contingentfromMyceneeandTirynsincludedabout200Mycenians(comp. p.252).Boththesecitiessufferedthesamefate,inbeingdestroyedbythe ArgivesinB.C.463.Sincethattimetheruinsofthetownhaveremained intheirlonelysituationverymuchaswenowfindthem,asisindicated bya comprnsonwiththedescriptionofPausanias(p.cx),although

MYCEN*. 32.Route.259 welearnfrominscriptionsthatMycenrewasinhabited,albeitscantily,in the2ndcent.B.C. TheancientcityincludednotonlytheAcropolia,theseatof therulingfamily,butalsoanextensiveLowerCity,spreading overtheentirehill, whichiscrossedbyasharpridgeofrock.Of theremainsherethemostimportantarethe subterraneandomed sepulchralchambers, whichinthetimeofPausanias, whentheir realcharacterhadbeenforgotten,passedastreasuries.Theconnec tionofthetwolargestwithAgamemnonandKlytaemnestraisquite erroneous; inmyth,poetry,andartthetomboftheformerisalways representedasasimpletumuluswithastele(comp.p.261). The routefromCharvatihr.)beginsalittleabovethecusto dian'shouse,andskirtsaruinousTurkishaqueductaffordingaview totheE.oftheravineofOouvia,wheretheCyclopeanruinsofa largebridgeindicatetheendofthefestalroadfromtheHeraeon. Fartheron,weseetotheleftbelowustheKdto-Pigadi, a much frequentedfountainwithremainsofancientmasonry.Beyondthe Chapelof HagiosOeorgioswefollowside-path a descendingslightly totherighttothe so-called'TreasuryofAtreusorTom&ofAga memnon,themoststrikingoftheseundergroundbuildings.Al thoughknownfromveryancienttimesthishasonlyrecentlybeen completelyexhumedbytheGreekArchaeologicalSociety.The entranceor'dromos'(nowclosedbyagrateddoor)isanopeningin theearth,19ft.wideand 115ft.long,thesidesofwhicharesupported \>ycarefullybuilt wallsofbreccia.Thedoorleadingtotheinterior, 171/2ft.high,8ft.wideatthetop,and8Y2ft.atthebase,issur mountedbyalintelformedoftwoblocksofstone,ofwhichtheinner oneisnearly30ft.long,16ft.broad,andover3ft.thick(witha weightestimatedat113tons).Theopeningornicheinthewall above,madetoreducetheweightrestingonthelintel,wasonce concealedbyanornamentedreddishslab,ofwhichfragmentshave beenfound.Ontherightandleft liebaseswhichsupportedor namentedcolumnsofcolouredmarble.Theinteriorisanelegant andartisticallyconstructedapartmentintheshapeofabeehive, about50ft.highandwitha floor-diameteraboutthesame. of In contrasttotheusualmethodofbuildingadome,accordingtowhich thestonesarewedge-shapedandthejointsruninthedirectionof thecentreofthebuilding,thesidewallsofthisedificeareformed of33horizontalcircularcourses,graduallybecomingnarroweras theyascend.Someofthestoneshavefallenfromtheroof,sothat enoughlightnowenterstoallowustoexaminetheinterior.From the3rdcourseupwardsweobservelargerandsmallerholesbored inthestonesinregularorder.Insomeofthesebronzenailshave beenfound,which wereusedtofastenmetalrosettes.—Adoorway about9ft.high,similartotheother,leadsfromthelargechamber intothetombproper,adarksquarechamber,whichtheguideillu minesburning by straw. 17* 260 Route32. MYCEN.E. About3 V M.fartheronbythemainpath,oppositethe"W.side ofthecitadel,liesanothervaultedsepulchre,knownastheTreasury ofKlytaemnestra,partiallyexcavatedbyMrs.Schliemannin1876 andcompletelyexhnmedbytheArchaeologicalSocietyin1891-92. Itsdoorway(dr6mos)andwholearrangementresemblethoseofthe TreasuryofAtreus,butitisinmuchworserepairandtheupper parthasfallenin.Beneaththedromospassesachanneltodrainthe tomb; andinfrontoftheentrancetotheinterioraretwopilasters. —TheotherAvevaultedtombs,thepositionsofwhichareindicat edonthePlan,areinstill a moredilapidatedconditionandofmuch moreprimitiveconstruction. We nowturntothe*AenoPOLis,whichsurrounded was by amassivewall, stilltolerablywell-preservedinitswholecircuit. Thegapabovea precipitouspartofthehillontheS.sidewas perhapsneverprotectedbyawall.Thefortifications,likethoseof Tiryns,constructed are ofenormousblocksofstone,not,however, allundressed, butinmanycaseshewnintopolygonalshapesor (atthegates)evensquared. From theN.W.angleofthecitadelapassage(33ft.broadand 50ft.long)betweenwallsleadstotheprincipal entrance,thefamous *OateoftheLions.Thewallsthis ofpassagearebuiltofsquared stones,whicharesoplacedthattheverticaljointsofeachcourseare inalinewitheachother,a peculiaritynotfoundintheotherbuild ings,whereonthecontrarytheverticaljointsareeachcappedbya stoneinthecourseabove.Theapproachwasfartherguardedbya tower-likeerectionontheS.wall,commandingtheunshieldedright sideofanyassailants.Thedoorway(nowclosedwithanirongrating), lO^ft.high,101/4ft.widebelowand91/2ft-above,isformedoftwo slightlyslopingdoorpostssupportingahugelintel(ifrfeft.long, 8ft.broad,andover3ft.thickthe inmiddle).Intheside-posts andinthelintelandsillthereareholeswhichwereusedinclosing andfasteningthedoors.Inordertoreducethesuperincumbent weightonthelintelatriangularopeninghasbeenleftinthewall immediatelyaboveit,asisalsothecaseinthetreasure-housesmen tionedabove.Inthecasethis ofgatewaytheopeningisconcealed byanornamentalslab(10ft.high,12ft.broadatthebase,and 2ft.thick),bearingthefamousrelief,whichiscertainlyoneof themostancientpiecesofsculptureinEurope.Itrepresentstwo lionsor,ashasbeenmorerecentlysuggested,twolionesses,ofa somewhatheraldicappearance,rearedontheirhindlegswith theirfore-pawsrestingonthebroadpedestalofasmoothcolumn, whichistoppedbyacuriousandquiteuniquecapital.Thelions wererepresentedaslookingtowardsthoseapproachingthegate, buttheirheads,whichweremadeofseparatepieces(perhapsof metal),arenowwanting.Comp.p.lxix. On passingthroughthedoorwayandcrossingaspaceabout 11ft.squarebehindit,whichwasclosedbyaseconddoor,now MYCENvE. 32.Route.261 inrains,weatoncereachthesceneofDr.Schliemann'sexcav ationsin1876-77.Aretaining-wallbuiltin thesamemanner asthefortifications,ontheleftasweenter,heredividestheupper partoftheAcropolisfromtheterraceonthelevelofthedoorway. Ontheterraceisadoublecircleofuprightstoneslabs,ontheupper edgesofwhicharenotches,apparentlyusedtofastenthehorizontal slabsplacedonthem,ofwhichsixstillretaintheiroriginalposition. Thespacethus enclosedhasadiameterofupwardsof80ft.; en trancewasobtainedbyanopeningontheN.side,formedbyobliquely placedslabs.SchliemannrecognizesinthisstructureanAgordor meeting-placewheretheprinceconsultedtheeldersthe ofpeople andadministeredjustice.Thenaturalrockrisestoaconsiderable heightintheE.partofthecircle; andintheW.part,undera thicklayerofrubbishonwhichwereninesteles(perhapsthetombs ofAgamemnonandhisfamilymentionedbyPausanias),werefound fivetombs,hewnintherockanicontainingaltogetherthebones offifteenpersons.Thequantityofgoldandotherornamentsfound inthegravesclearlyprovesthatthebodieswerethoseofmembers oftherulingfamily.Probablytheyhadbeenexposedtotheinfluence offirebeforeor atburial.AsixthgravetotheS.andpartlybeyond theoircle,wasopenedin1877bytheArchaeologicalSociety(p.98) andwasfoundtocontaintwocorpseswithsimilarornaments.The wallsfarthertotheS.appeartohavebelongedtoadwelling-house. Thehutofthekeepercommandsagoodsurveyoftheruins. Thetriangulargroundplanofthefortifications,withtheapexpoint ingE.totheravine,canbewellseenfromtheSummitoftheAcro polis(910ft.)towhichwenowascend. OntheN. andS.E.theAcro polisisdividedfromtherestofthemountainbydeepravines,con tainingwater-courses(generallydry)whichfartherdownboundfor ashortdistancethelowertownalso.Excavationsbegunherein 1887havebroughttolightpart ofPalace, a resemblingthatatTi- ryns,theS.endofwhichhasbeensweptawaybyalandslip.Ata laterdateatemplewaserectedonthesiteofthepalace.Onthe W.andS.W.sidesoftheupperpartoftheAcropolisareseveral chambers,oneofwhichcontainsanumberofearthenvesselsfor holdingstores,fixedintotheearth.Awell-preservedflightofsteps ascendsfromthesechamberstothetopthe ofrock.—Ancient cisternsandtracesaqueducts of occuratvariouspoints.—Theview extendsovertheentireArgolicplainasfarastheLarisa(p.266) andthesea. WenowdescendtothesmallPostern,whichweseebelowus ontheN.side.Itsexteriorapproachispeculiarlyplacedsothatthe wallscouldcommandonlytheshieldedleftsideassailants. of A passage,discoveredin1888,replacesthewallbetweenthispostern andtheN.E.angleof thecastle.Asubterraneanreservoir,about 40yds.outsidethewalls,towhichitleads,receivesitswaterfrom aspringtotheN.E.,andisnamedbyPausaniasthePerseiaFountain. 262 Route33. LEONIDI. FromNauplia — AfootpathleadsroundtheoutsideofthewallstotheGateofthe Lions, passingoveisomeroughrocksandneartheremainsofa Turkishaqueduct(p.269).TheentiredistricttotheN.andW.of Mycenseisdottedwithgroupsofrock-tombsofwhichabout70have beenexaminedwithmostinterestingresults. 33. FromNaupliatoKalamatabySea. GreekCoastingSteamer(pp.xix-xx)in33hrs.(fares22dr.80, 17dr.151.),touchingatLeonidi,Monemvasia,Kythera(Cerigo),Gytheion (Marathoniai),Limeni,andKardamyle. OurcourseskirtstheruggedE.coastofthePeloponnesus.Op positeNaupliaappearsfirstMyli(p.268),thenKiviri,andfarther onthepromontoryandtownofAstros(p.266).—OntheS.side ofa littlebayherelietheruinsoftheonceconsiderablesea-port ofPrasiae.Thedistricthasinmoderntimesrecovereditsancient nameofKynouria(p.266). About4hrs.afterleavingNaupliaweseethesmalltownof Leonidi(3400inhab.),standingalittleinlandfromtheshoreofa baythatopensonourright.Leonidiisthecapitalofthedistrict ofKynouria,themountainousS.halfofwhichisinhabitedbythe 'Tshakones'(about8700innumber),araceinterestingonaccount oftheirantiquedoricdialect.Theyarethesuccessorsoftheancient Kynourians,andhavemaintainedtheirindependencealmostun interruptedly.In3-3'/2nrs.moreweareoppositetheheightof Kavoleraka,alittletotheN.ofwhichthesiteoftheancientZarax isindicatedbytwoconcentricwallsintheCyclopeanstyle. At KavoKremtdiwecomeinsightofthedistantisolatedpeak, crownedwitharuinedmedisBvalcastle,attheS.footofwhichMonem- vasialies.Thepromontory,whichhasbeenartificiallyseparated fromthemainland,isconnectedwiththelatterbyalongstone bridge.Theunimportantvillage(520inhab.),atwhichwetouch 4hrs.afterleavingLeonidi,isnowtheseatofaneparch.Inthe 13-16thcent,itwassuccessivelyheldbyVillehardouin,theByzan tines,theVenetians,andtheTurks; anditwasrepeatedlythe objectofkeencontests.Thefamous'Malvoisy'winewasmadein thevicinity,butthevineyardsarenowdesolateandbarren.The Malvoisygrape,however,isstillpreservedinSantorini(p.146), Cyprus,Sardinia,Sicily,Portugal,andelsewhere.Theruinsof EpidaurosLimeralieabout1 hr.totheN.W.—Monemvasiais within2days'journeyofSparta;theroutepassesMola'i(1360in hab.),crossestheplainof Helos,andbeyondSkalauniteswith theroadfromGytheiontoSparta(pp.285-283). We nextdoubleCapeMalta,dreadedbymarinersonaccount ofitsstorms.Ithas preserveditsancientnamethoughtheaccent isaltered(MaliainsteadofMalea).OntheS.faceisahermit'scell. TotheleftliestherockyislandofKytheraorCythera(110sq.M.; 8900inhab.),towhichthePhoenicianswereearlyattractedbyits to Kalamata. GYTHEION.33.Route.263 abundanceofpurple-yieldingmurices.Subsequentlyitbelongedto Sparta.Kytherawastheseatof averyearlycultofAphrodite,who wasfabledtohavehererisenfromthesea.SincetheVenetian periodthe islandhasbeenknownasCerCgo,andinspiteofits distancefromtherestofthegroup,itisincludedamongtheIonian islands.ThesteamerstouchatthelittlevillageofKotoniorKy thera,4hrs.afterleavingNauplia,andsailroundtheisland. Steering nextN.W.thesteamerenterstheLaconianGulf,at themouthofwhich,ontheright,istheislandofElaphdnisi(the ancientOnougnathos).FartheronarethepromontoryofXyliand themarshymouthoftheEurotas(p.274).Inthedistanceappear thewhitesummitsofTaygetos.Thenextstationis(43/4hrs.)— GytheionorMarathonisi.—XenodoohiokKalamata,E.tolerable, bed1dr.,goodrestaurant.—ThosewhowishtoproceedtoSparta(comp. p.283)byomnibusshouldsecureaseatbytelegraph.Therearenoother carriagestobeobtained.HorsetoSparta10dr. Oytheion,with3700inhab.,istheseatofaneparch,and,as inantiquity,isstillthechiefexportingharbourfortheplainof SpartaandfortheN.partofMaina(seebelow),inwhichit is some-timesincluded.Thebusybutcrowdedanddirtymodern townliesatthefootoftheboldpromontoryofLarysion,which wasformerlysacredtoDionysosandissurmountedbyaruinand commandsafineview.Amoleconnectsthemainlandwiththe littleislandofMarathonisi,onwhichisachapel,alighthouse,and severalotherbuildings.ThisistheancientKrande,whereParis celebratedhisnuptialswiththeabductedThe Helen.coastofthis districtboreinantiquitythenameofMigonion.Alittleoutside thetown,totheleftoftheroadtoSparta,isalargerectangular recessIntherock,withseveralstepsintheinterior;froman inscriptionwegatherthattemple a ofZeusTerastioshere. lay Theancientcity('Palseopolis')extendedto hencetheN.,onthe rightsideoftheroad.AtthefootofthefirsthilltheTheatre, of whichonlyafewrowsofseatswerepreviouslyknown,hasrecently beenentirelylaidbare.TheremainsalittletotheS.arere ferredtotheancientAgora.Theancienttownextendedasfaras thesea,whichseemstohavegaineda gooddealupontheland sinceantiquity; forconsiderableremainsofbuildingsmaybeseen inthewaternearamillonthepresentcoast.Herealsoisanan cientsarcophaguswithreliefs(anotherliestotheN.besidethelast house).TheshrineofZeusKappotas,wherethematricideOrestes issaidtohaverested,hasnotyetbeenidentified,northeartificial harbourofancientGytheion.—FromGytheiontoSparta,see pp.The 285-283.barrencentralpeninsulaofthePeloponnesus,whichthe steamernextcoasts,isMauiorMaina,thehomeoftheMainotes (ca.41,000),a raceknownfortheirloveoflibertybutalsofor theirbloodyvendettas.Theyclaimtobethedescendantsofthean cientSpartans,anddelighttocallthemselvesLaconians(Adxoive?). 264 Route3d ELAEUS. Theymanagedtomaintainavirtualindependenceduringthepe riodofTurkishdominion.ManiistheonlydistrictofthePelo ponnesusinwhichthevineisnotcultivated.Largenumbersof quailsarecaughtintheS. TheS.extremityofthepeninsulais CapeMatapan(lighthouse),theancientTaenaron,stretchingto 36°22'58"N.lat.andnexttoCapeTarifainSpain[35°59'57" N.lat.)themostsoutherlypointincontinentalEurope.TheTemple ofPoseidonwhichoncestoodherewasthecentreanaval of league amongthesea-portsoftheLaconianGulf.ThetownofKaenepolis. whichlaynearit,wasnotfoundeduntiltheRomanperiod. The. W sidethe ofpeninsulaisdottedwithvillages,bothon thecoastandontheheights.In572hrs.afterleavingMarathonisi thesteamertouchesatLimeni,theportforArepolis(1170inhab.), thehomeoftheMavromichalis(p.250),thensteerspastCape Kephdli,andin3hrs.moreenterstheharbourofKalamata(p.347), whereahaltofsomedurationisgenerallymade.—FromKalamata toPylos(Navarino),etc.,seep.322. 34. FromArgostoSpartaviaHagiosFetros. in!/2This nr.eorxcursiononhorsebacktakes2-3indays.hrs.To•, ifylifromfromMyliArgostothebyLoukourailwayConvent(p.268)on horseback43/«hrs.; fromLoukoutoHagioslodnnes2hrs.(fromMylito Hagios2l/2hrs.lodnnes; fromviaHagiosAstrosPetros8hrs.)to;ArdchovafromHagiosl'/aIoanneshr.; fromtoHagiosArSchovaPetrosto Sparta63/4hrs.—HorsesmaygenerallybeobtainedatMyli,butit is safertobringorsendthemfromArgos. FromArgostoMylibyrailway,seep.268.FromNaupliawe may godirecttoMylibyboat.—TworoutesleadfromMylitothevillage ofHagiosJoannes,whichisnotquitehalf-waytoSparta; theshorter butmorefatiguingleadsovertheZavitzaMts.(63/4hrs.),whilethe other followsthecoasttoAstros,andthenturnsinland(8hrs.). TheMountain-Pathturnsinlandalmostatoncebeyond Myli.Totherightisasmalleminencewithsomescantyancient ruins,towhichthenameofPalaeo-Kivfrihasbeengiven.We thenapproachthegorgeof thesmallriverKivlri,thewaterof whichisconductedbyanaqueducttoirrigatethemaize-fieldsof Kiveri(p.265).Attheentranceofthevalleyareseveralkhans andmills.Theancientfragmentsofwallsonalowrockyhillnear thesecondmill(l'/4nr-fromMyli)probablyformedpartofthe Argiveborder-townof ElaeHs,whereHerculesburiedtheundying headoftheLerneanhydra(p.269). After0 2 min.morewecrosstheturbidyellowstreamupthe courseofwhichatrackleadstoDolyana(p.267),andin1/2nr-we reachthebaseoftheverdantZavitzaMts., Asteepandfatiguing climbof1hr.bringsustoadepressionbetweentwosummits,where theviewoftheancientKynouria(p.266)opens.Thehighestpeak oftheZavitza(p.265)liestotheleftofthepath,onthesidenext thesea.Ontherightisanancientwatch-towerofpolygonalmas LOUKOU CONVENT.34.Boute.265 onry,about25ft.indiameter,whichmarkstheancientboundary betweenArgosandLaconia.Thesmallandancientfortress,now calledTsorovos,totheleftofthepath'/2hr.fartheron,probably alsoservedtoguardthefrontiers. The scatteredshepherd-villageofKalyviaDolianttika,which wereachinIV4hr.afterleavingthecol,isthe'winter-village'of Doliana(p.267)andonlyoccasionallyinhabited.Itliesamid luxuriantgrovesofolivesabovetheriverofLoukou,theancient Tanoa(p.266).Thesemicircularterminationofthevalleycon sistsofbanksofredearth,thenumerouscavesinwhichhavegiven thesurnameofSpeliaestothevillage.TotheS.K.,aboveanab ruptprecipice,isachapeloftheHagiaParaskeve.TotheS.W.is thehillofKourmiti,withmuralfragments,cisterns,tombs,and otherrelicsofsomeancientcommunity,perhapsEva. Aftercrossingthestreamwetraverseaplateauseamedwiththe coursesofnumerousbrooks, andin1/2hr.reachthehospitable LoukouConvent,whichpeepsfromamidloftycypresseslongbe forewecometoit. Thepresentbuildingwaserectedonthesite ofonedestroyedbyIbrahimPashain1826(comp.p.356).The considerableincomeoftheconventischieflyderivedfromitsolive- groves.Fine viewoverAstros(p.266)totheArgolicpeninsula. Theantiquitiesfoundinandneartheconventhavegivenrise to thesuppositionthatitoccupiesthesiteofasanctuarywhichexist edheretilllateintheKomanperiodandwhichmayperhapshave belongedtotheabove-mentionedEva,wherethecultoftheAs- klepiadaflourished. The sculpturesandreliefshavebeenremoved, with butfewex ceptions.Oneoftheroomscontainsthetomb-stoneofa vine-dresser, andsomeroundtabletswithsepulchralinscriptionsoftheRomanperiod. IntheshadyGardenisasittingfigureofAthena,inmarble(headless), afragmentof alion'sheadinclay,andsomemosaic pavements,of one whichhasagainbeencoveredwithrubbish.IntheChurch{HagiaMe- tamdrphosis,theTransfiguration)arefoursmoothmarblecolumns,while theCourt-YardoftheconventcontainssomeCorinthiancapitalsandthe colossalheadofaman. About1JtM.totheN.E.oftheconvent,nearsomeruinswherenu merousVenetiancoinshavebeenfound,liefivelargeGraniteColumns, andportionsofothers.Fartheron,inthedirectionoftheParaskeve chapelmentionedabove,areafewMarbleColumns,saidtomarkthesite ofanancienttemple.—ThebrooktotheS.E.oftheconventispictur esquelyspannedbythearchofanAqueduct,probablyofRomanorigin, fromwhichhanglargestalactites.Ontherightbankofthebrook,near thefirstconvent-mill, arefartherremainsoftheaqueduct,whichwas fedbyaspring,stronglyimpregnatedwithlime,about!/2M.distant. About2hrs.beyondLoukouthemountain-pathjoinstheroad leadingfromAstrostoHagiosJoannes,notfarfromthatvillage (seep.267). The Coast-RoadviaAstroscrossestheriverKiveri, andin 50min.afterleavingMylireachesthemodernvillageofKiveri. FartherontheZavitzaMis.(3190ft.)approachclosetothesea,leav- 266 Route34. ASTEOS. FromArgos ing onlyanarrowpassage,calledAnigratabytheancients.Itcom mandsalineviewoftheoppositecoastofthehaybutisotherwise monotonous.SoonafterleavingKive"ri,weobservethe seabelow usontheleftcolouredaturbidredforaconsiderabledistance,ap parentlyfromtheoutflowof a'katavothra'(comp.p.187),which perhapscomesfromtheso-called'FallowField1besideMantinea (p.293).Thiswasalsotheopinionentertainedbytheancientsof asecondnaturalappearanceof asimilarkindwhichwenotice 3hrs.fartheron,beforelast thebendoftherockycoast-route.At alittledistancefromtheshoreweseeonthesurfaceofthewater adarkerspotintheformofaflattenedcircle,inthemidstofwhich alighter-colouredstreamofwaterceaselesslyrises. We reachtheplainof Astrosin1/4hr.andcrosstheTanos, thealluvialdepositsofwhichhavegraduallyunitedtheformeris landofAstroswiththemainland.EvenyetpartofthesoiliBim pregnatedwithsalt;thefertileportionoftheThyreaticPlain,as itwascalledinantiquity,liesfarthertotheS. Astros (5^4hrs.fromMyli),a villagewith300inhab.,lies partlyonthecoastandpartlyonalongrockyhill,crownedbya mediaevalcastle.has ItbecomeknownfromthesecondnationalGreek assembly,calledthe'AssemblyofAstros',heldonthebankofthe TanosunderthepresidencyofPetrobey,inMarchandApril1823. Thenameappearstohavecomedownfromantiquity,althoughit isnowherementionedbyancientauthors.Thisbeliefissupported bytheremainsoftwowalls,hastilyconstructedofroughblocks, ontheN.partofthehill,notfarfromaruinedmill.Inanycase theplacewasquitedevoidofimportance.TheS.partthe ofrock, wherethesmallmediaevalcastleandafewruined housesstand, af fordsafineviewacrossthe seatoNaupliaandArgos,andoverthe ThyreaticplaintotheS. OntheS.E.marginofthelast,beyond alargeswampcalledMoust6s,wemaydistinguishthemountain- spurrunningdowntothesea,onwhichlietheruinsofthean cienttownAthene,Anthene,orAnthana,nowcalled'Paleeokastro ofHagiosAndreas'. By turninginlandimmediatelyafterenteringtheplain,without proceedingtoAstros, wesaveabout'/2hour.Theroadsunite againattheKalyviaMeligitika,whichwereachfromAstrosin lessthan1hour.TheseKalyviaareinhabitedonlyinwinterby thepeopleofMeligou(p.267),theplainbeingunhealthyin summer;theothervillagesofthesurroundingmountainshave similarwinterquarters.Ontheothersideofthevalley,upwhich ourcoursenowlies,risesthehillofKastr&ki,withthemetochior farmofHagiosTrias.Wenowascendgraduallyandreach,onthe right,theruinscalledHellenikdorTichi6,whichhavebeenident ifiedwiththoseofthetownofThyrea,theancientmistressofthe plain(2090ft.abovethesea-level). The ancientdistrictofKynouria,andespeciallythatpartofitcalled theThyreaticPlain(Thynatit),wasforcenturiestheobjectofstrifebe to Sparta. THYREA. 34.Route.267 tween theSpartansandtheArgives,whohadorginallypossessedthe entireE.Laconianpeninsula.ThevictoryofKleomenesatTirynsinB.C. 495eventuallydecidedthestruggleinfavouroftheSpartans;andthe littleriverTanos(p.266)becamethemutualboundary.InB.C.431the Spartansoffereda refugeinThyreatosomeoftheexpelled.flLgine- tans(p.137).TheAthenians,however,inB.C.424-423,the 8thyearof thePeloponnesianwar,landedonthecoastasthe^Eginetanswerebusied inthe constructionoffortifications,threwthesedown,andthenmarched toThyreaanddestroyeditalso.Sincethattimethecityappearsto havelain in ruins.TheThyreaticplainwasagainassignedtotheAr givesbyPhilipII.ofMacedon. AgradualascentontheE.sideofthehillleadstothemain gate,-which,likemuchofthestilleasilytraceablewalls,gives evidenceofintentionaldestruction.Thewallsandthetowers, someofwhichareroundandsomesquare,varyinbreadth.The best-preservedfragmentisaportionofthewallontheN.E.side, from6to10ft.broadandabout16ft.high.TheN.wallhas almost completelyTanished.Theinteriorisoccupiedbyseveral longrockyterraces,onwhichfragmentsof wallsandnumerouscis ternsremain.OntheW.theplateauculminatesina smallhill, whichisenclosedbywallsandformsanalmosttriangularout work.Fine Tiewofthesurroundingmountainsandof theseaas farasHydra.—Opposite,ontheS.,beyondtheravine,liesthe conventofPalaedPanagia. Beyond ThyreaweleavethelargevillageofMeligotiontheleft andreach(2hrs.)thevillageHagios of Joannes(1360inhab.), pleasantlysituatedamongtrees,about3hrs.fromAstrosand2hrs. fromtheLoukouConvent(p.265). We nowdescendintothesmallPlainofXerdkampos.InIts S.E.angleisthe mediaevalcastleofOraedkastro('BeautifulCastle'), picturesquelysituatedonahighconicalhill,probablythesiteof theanoientNeris.Beyondtheplainwegraduallyascendalong thewell-wateredandgenerallywell-cultivatedslopesoftheMdlevo Mts.(6365ft.),theancientParnon,tothevillageofHagiosPetros (3350inhab.; 2l/2hrs.fromHagiosJoannes),withtwolargenew churches.Theinhabitantsofthiswholedistrict,includingthevil lagesofKastri(1hr.totheN.)andDolyandhr.farther; p.272), arestrong a and handsomerace,principallyoccupiedinvine-dress ingandcharcoal-burning.TheybuygrainfromthepeopleofAra- chova(p.268)whobringtheirsuppliestomarkethereonSunday. In'/anr'afterleavingHagiosPetroswereachthecrestof a ridge,wherea springrises,andabout10min.fartheron,to ourleftaswebegintodescend,wesee threeflatheapsofstone splinters.Thenativescallthespotoxou?(poveufiivou?,or'place oftheslain',andrelatethatitwasthesceneinmythicaltimesof abloodybattlebetween300Argivesand300Spartans.Thean cientdistrictsofThyreatis,Tegeatis,andLaconiatouchedatthis point;anditwascalledfromtheland-marksthe'placeofthe Hermae'.OntheleftisadesertedchapelofHagiosTheddoros,per hapsonthesiteoftemple a ofZeusSkotitas.In50min.more 268 Route35. MYLI. we reachArachova(l'/2hr.fromHagiosPetros),aprosperous villagewith1600inhab.,wheretheXenodochiouofDemetrakisCha- rakas,nearthechapelofHagiosAndreas,offerstolerableaccommo dation.(HencetoKryavrysis,seep.272). We nextdescendthecourseoftheKelephina,theancientCEnus, whichflowsbothsummerandwinter; onaccountofitsdestructive inundationsitiscalled'Phfinissa'or'murderess',bythepeople. Itscourseissoirregularthatwechangefrombanktobank50or 60timesasweproceed.Plane-trees,andonafewflatspots,maize andmulberry-plantations,borderitscourse.Ontheleftitreceives thetributariesVambakotiandVresthena.In3*/4hrs.afterpassing ArachovawereachtheKhanofKrevat&s(p.273).Thenceto Sparta,3'/2h*8-;seeP-273.

35.FromArgostoTripolitza. .43M Railwaiin3>/2hrs.(fares8dr.701.,5dr.).Thereare3or4 trainsdailytoMyli,and1or 2toTripolitza.—Thislineisnowbeing continuedtoDiavolitsi,theterminusoftherailwayfromKalamata(p.353). Argos, seep.264.—3M.Kephalari.Closeby,atthefootof theChaon,risesthecopiousspringofKephalovrysis,whichdrives aboutadozenmillsbelongingtoArgos,andformsastream,of whichtheancientnamewasErasinos.Mostofthewateristhe outflowfromtheStymphalianlake(p.296),afactwhichwasknown totheancients.AttheentrancetoadeepcavernabovetheKe phalovrysisisthechapelofthePanagiaKephalari6tissa.Heresac rificeswereofferedtoPanandtoDionysos,inwhosehonouralso theTyrbefestivalwascelebrated.Notfaroffisapowder-mill. AboutM.fromKephalovrysis,alittletotherightofthebridle pathtoAchlad6kampos,aretheruinsofthePyramidofKenchrese,con structedoflargepolygonalblocks.Themortarwhichappearsinsome .partspossiblydatesfromamediaevalrestoration.Thebaseformsarect angleabout50ft.longby40ft.broad.TheW.sideissadlydamaged, buttheotherthreesidesstillrisetoaheightofabout10ft.Theen tranceonthe E.sideadmitstoa narrowpassage,leadingtothechief interiorspace,about60sq.ft.inarea,andoriginallydividedintotwo apartments.ThisstructureisuniqueofitskindinGreece; anditis stillamatterofdispute,whetheritisatombandmonumentofvictory ('polyandrion')orsomethingofthenatureofawatch-tower. TheBridle-PathtoAchlado'kampos(43/4hrs.fromKephalovrysis), leavingthepyramidontherightandthevillageofSkaphiddkionthe left,ascendstheS.E.continuationoftheKteniaMts.,betweenChaon (seeabove),andPontinos(seebelow).Theslopeisatfirstgradual,but afterwardsbecomesrathersteep.Inabout23/«hrs.wereach,nearthe desertedvillageofPalae6-8kaphid&ki,aspotcalledstaNeril,distinguished foritsabundantsupplyofwater,withalargeruinedkhan.Theancient walls,marbleslabs,andfragmentsofcolumnsseenhereprobablybe longedtotheancientKenchreaeorKerchneae.Fartheronthepathcom mandsforsomedistanceaviewofthesea,andfinallyitjoinsthecar riage-roadto(2hrs.)Achladdkampoi(p.296). 6.M Myli(MtfXoi),atthefootofAft.Pontinos,ahillsurmounted inantiquitybyatempleofAthenaSaitiswhichwassucceeded bythemediaevalcastlenowvisible.Thecopiousspringwhich ACHLADOKAMPOS.35.Route.269 rises belowtheroadtotheleft,nearthechapelofHagiosJo&n- nes,istheancientAmymoneorLema,whereHerculesovercame theLerneanhydra,withtheaidofthefire-brandsofIolaos.Ponti- nos,anotherspringmentionedbytheancients,hasalsobeenrecog nized,alittletotheN.; butthespringofAmphiaraosseemsto havebeenengulfedbythemarshylake(theAlkyonicLake),which hasconsiderablyexpandedinthecourseofcenturies.Apartofthe village,calledtheSkala,withthelargestmill,liesonthesea shore; it isthelanding-placeforboatsfromNauplia.Inantiquity a sacredgroveofplane-treesexistedhere,withinwhichsacred mysteriesinhonourofDemeterandDionysoswerecelebrated.— ThenarrowpassageatMylibecamenotedduringtheWarofInde pendencefromitsgallantdefencebytheGreeksunderDemetrios Ypsilantis(p.250)againstIbrahimPasha'sArabsandnegroes, onJune25th,1825. Beyond Mylitherailwaystrikesinland,traversestheW.partof theplainofKiveri(p.266),andascendstothedepressionbetween theKtenidandZavitsaMts.(p.265).TheGulfofNaupliasoon disappearsfromview.—16M.Andritza.Amongthemountains totheS.thepeaksoftheMalevogroup(p.267)areconspicuous.The linethenascendsinwidecurvestoa spaciousgreenuplandval ley,withaviewofthebridgementionedbelow.Inthisvalley, belowachapelofBag.Nikolaos,onaneminence,isthesiteofthe ArgivebordertownofHysiae,destroyedbytheSpartansinB.C. 417.Theruinsarescanty; onlyontheE.sideofthehilla portion ofthewall,52paceslongand6to10ft.high,hasbeenpreserved. 20. M Achladokampos(1020ft.).Thevillageofthatname (1500inhab.)liesonthemountain-slopetotherightoftheroad, inthemidstofthickgrovesofolive,nut,andpear-trees. Therailwaywindsroundtheentirevalley.Inanangletothe rightwenoticeasteepconicalhillbearingtheruinedmediaeval castleofPalaeo-Mouchli.Fartheronwecrossausuallywaterless river-bedbymeansoflofty a viaduct,whence(andalsofartheron) weenjoyaretrospectofAchladfikampos.Theentirerangeofmoun tainswascalledParthenionbytheancients;itsmodernnameis Rhoino.AccordingtotheancientlegendtheinfantTelephos(p.272) was exposedhereandwassuckledbyahind,andPanissaidto haveappearedheretoPhilippides,theAtheniancourier,onhisway toSparta,andtohaveassuredhimthathewouldassisttheAthen iansatMarathon(comp.p.59).Bothof theseeventswerecom memoratedbysanctuaries. TherailwayskirtstheS.sideoftheHag.Elias(3990ft.),af fordinganothermomentaryglimpseofthePalamidi(p.250),and thenleadsbetweenrocksto(29M.)Masklena.Thevillageliesin thevalleybelow,totheleft.Justbeyondatunnelwereach(34M.) VCnova(1680inhab.),aconsiderablevillageatthefootofthePar thenion,wherethestreamletofSaranta-Pdlamo(comp.p.271), 270 Route35. TRIPOLITZA.FromTripolitza descendingfromHagiorgitika(seebelow),disappearsina large katavothra(p.272),Astalactite-cavernhasrecentlybeendisco veredwithinthekatavothra.—Taygetos(p.282)by-aud-byappears inthedistancetotheleft.PassingHagiorgitika(ontheright)wenext stopat(38M.)Stend,attheentranceadefile. ofTheextensiveE. Arcadianplain,coveredwithcornfieldsandvineyards,opensout beyondthedefile.ThechiefplacehereisTripolitza.—From Sten6byAchoHriatoPiaH(Tegea)1hr.,byHag.SostisV/2hx.; comp.below. .43 MTripolitza.—Inns.XenodochiontouStemmatos,bed2-3 dr.,withagoodbutratherdearrestaurant(non-resinousTegeanwine); Xen.Peloponnesos,cheaper; bothinstreetsleadingtotheN.fromthe Platia.—SeveralCafitinthePlatia. Tripoli* (2150ft.),tousetheofficialname,orTripolitza,asthe otherwiseuniversallyused(Slavonic)diminutiveformhasit,the solitarytowninArcadia,isoneofthemostimportantplacesinthe Peloponnesus.Itistheseatofanarchbishop,andcontainsagym nasiumandaseminaryforpriests; thepopulationis10,700.The namecommemoratesthefactthatthetownisbuiltontheterri toriesofthreeancientcities,Mantinea,Pallantion,andTegea. Tripolishasexistedonlyinmoderntimes,havingfounded been aboutthebeginningoftheTurkishdominioninGreece,during whichitwastheresidenceofthepashaoftheMorea.Itscapture byKolokotronisonOctober5,1821,thoughstainedbythemas sacreoftheentireTurkishpopulationandthenearlytotalde structionofthetown,wasoftheutmostimportancetotheGreek cause.IbrahimPashaoccupiedthetownfromJune1825to1828. Thetownisnowveryprosperousandisexpandingonallsides.The principalroutesfromvariouspartsoftheplain,whichmeethere, debouchinthecentreofthetowninthelargeandshadysquare (TtXoTeio),whereanimposingchurchwaserectedin1879.The narrowlanesroundthesquareareoccupiedbythebazaar,andare throngedwithbusytraffic.TheGymnasiumcontainssmall acol lectionofantiquities,chieflyobjectsfonndintheexcavatiousofthe FrenchSchool(p.94)atMantinea(p.293). An examinationofthenumerousKatavothraeintheE.Arcadianplain (seeaboveandpp.271,298)hasrecentlybeenbegun,witha viewto drainingthemandtherebyimprovingthehygienicconditionsofthedistrict. From TripolitzatoMantineaandJEgion,seep.291; toMega lopolis, seep.288;toDimitzdna,seep.301. 36.FromTripolitzatoSpartaviaTegea. This route takes13hrs.,exclusiveofstoppages.Carriageroad.Accom modationonthewayisobtainedatPiali hr.fromTripolitza),and attheKhanofVourlia(8hrs.fromPiali,notquite3hrs.fromSparta). —ThosewhoomitthedetourviaTegea(ofinterestonlytoarchaeologists) mayreachSpartainoneday(mostconvenientlybycarriageinabout8hrs.). The fertileplaintotheS.E.ofTripolitza,thicklysprinkled withthrivingvillages,formedtheancientterritoryofTegea.Itis to Sparta, TEGEA. 36.Route.271 traversedy b tworoadsstartingfromTripolitza,anewroadleading totheS.andanotherleadingtotheS.E.toDolyana,Kastri(p.267), andotherplaces.Wefollowthelatteratfirst,andin50min.reach thevillageofHagiosStistis,situatedonagentleeminence,from whichweobtainthebestsurveyovertheterritoryoftheancient Tegea(Te-f&oi),extendinghencetoIbrahimEffendiontheS.W., PialiontheS.,andAchouriaontheS.E.Thecourseofthe8a- rantaPotamoliestotheE.(p.269).Thefoundationsofthe city-wallwerediscoveredatseveralpoints1889. in Inthepre-DorianperiodTegeaappearsasthemostconsiderable powerinthePeloponnesus.ItskingSchemesovercamein singlecombat Hyllos,sonofHerculesandleaderoftheHerakleidte,ontheborderof thepeninsula,nearMegara.Aleos,the sonofApheides,appearsasthe founderofthecity,whichlikemanyothersissaidtohavebeenformed by'Synoekismos1(p.39),andalsoofthechieftempleof'AthenaAlea';andto thesamepTincetheArcadiansascribedthetransferenceoftheunited ArcadianmonarchytoTegea.Athenaissaidtohavegiventohisson KepheusalockoftheMedusa'shair,invirtueofthepossessionofwhich thecitybecameimpregnable.Inthe 6thcent.,however,itsresistance toSparta,strengthenedbythesecondMessenianwar,begantogrow weaker.Itscitizenstookpartthe inbattlesofThermopylae(p.199) andPlatsea(p.172),duringthePersianwars;butitsstrugglewithSparta recommencedimmediatelyafterwards.TheTegeansweredefeatedin repeatedbattles—atTegeaitselfasalliesoftheArgives,andatDipeea (p.302)alongwithmostofthe otherArcadians.Subsequentlyitappears asthemostfaithfulallyofSparta,resistingattemptsonitsfidelityon the partofboth ArgosandCorinth.TheriseofthedemocracyinB.C.370 reversedthispolicy;andtheTegeansfoughtonthesideoftheThebansat Mantinea(p.292).Thetown,however,againjoinedSparta,andwasin consequencedrawnintothewarswiththeAchseans,whoseleagueitwas forcedtoenterinB.C.222.StrabonamesTegeaastheonlycityinArcadia worthmention,andPausaniasgivesadetaileddescriptionofit. TheN.E.slopeofthehillofHagiosS6stisisnotedfortho unusuallylargenumberofsmallbronzeandterracottaobjectsfound onit. Mostaresmallfigures,imagesofgoddessesorfemaleforms withsacrificialofferings,andthelike,representingallstagesin thedevelopmentofGreekartfromthemostprimitivetoalate period,andprovingtheformerexistenceonthisspotof atemple ofDemeterandKore,towhichtheyhadbeenbroughtasvotive offerings. The roadleadsstraighton,passingbelowthe thevillageof Mertsaoursi,andint/2nr-reachestheruinedByzantinechurchof Palaeo-Episkopt,a curiouslyformedstructure,which,likethesur roundingruinedwalls,claimstodatefromtheByzantinecityof Nikli.Thischurchisbuiltuponanancientsemicircularstructure, whichissupposedtohavebeentheTheatre.Aconsiderableportion of the round]end-wallisvisibleoutsidetheapses; numerousmarble- slabshavealsobeenfound.Onaneighbouringisasmall farm museum.HencetoPiali,1/4hr. ThedirectrouteturnstotherightatHagios86stis(seeabove), andin1/2hr.reachesPiali(600inhab.),embosomedinplantations of mulberry-trees.TheKhanofNikos,attheS.endofthemainstreet, leadingtotheW.fromthechurch,iscomparativelywellfitted-up 272 Route36. TEGEA. FromTripolitza for forehand).thereceptionThevillageoftravellersliesin(night-quarters,theS.W.partof2dr.,theprecinctshargainhe-of Tegea.ItisatthispointthatPausanias,whoenteredfromPallan- tion(p.288),heginshisdescriptionofthetown,commencingwith thefamousTempleofAthenaAled,thechiefsanctuaryofTegea, rebuiltafterafireinB.C.394bySkopastheParian(p.xcvi),and richlyadorned.Thecolumn-shaftsandsculpturedMocksofmarble, whichliestrewnroundthechurchofHag.Nikolaos,havebeenfound onvariousoccasionsbythepeasants.ThesmallMuseumbeside thechurchhasyieldeditschieftreasurestoAthens(p.100),but itstillretainsanexcellentlargereliefoflions. Theexactsiteofthetemple,totheW.ofthechurch,wasascer tainedin1879byexcavations,nowfilledupagain.Thetemplewasa Doricperipteros,154ft.longandabout72ft.broad,with6columnsat theendsand18onthesides.Thecolumnshadadiameterof43/4ft. andaheightofabout26ft.; theyhave20flutingsandthecapitalsexhibit theuprighteehinosofthelaterstyle.TheinteriorcontainedIonicand Corinthiancolumns.Aninclinedbank,like thatthetemple at ofZeusat Olympia(p.332),leduptothe E.front.ThesculpturesintheE.pedi mentrepresentedthehuntingoftheEalydonianboar,withMeleager,The seus,andtheTegeannationalheroesAtalantaandAnkeeos;thoseonthe W.portrayedthefightofTelephos(sonofHerculesandthepriestess Auge,daughterofthekingofTegea)againstAchillesontheKaikosin Mysia.Theboar'shead,whichaccordingtothelegendwaspresentedto theboldandbeautifulAtalantabyMeleagerasthetrophyofvictory, wasshowninthetempledowntotheRomanperiod. About 21/2hrs.totheS.E.ofPialiliesDolyand(3120ft.; p.267),with theancientquarries,1/2hr.totheN.W.,thatsuppliedthebeautiful whitish-yellowmarbleusedforthetempleatTegea.Therearealsosome smallermodernquarries. FromPialiweproceedtotheS.W.andat(ca.8/4hr.)KaparUi striketheroadfromTripolitzatoSparta,mentionedat p.270.The wholeS.W.partoftheplain,asfarasthefootofMountKravari, theancientBoreion(p.288),ismarshy.Partofthewaterfinds anoutletnearthevillageofVervatibymeansof akatavothra (2155ft.),whiohsharesthenameofTakawiththemarshandthe plain.TheSaranta-Pdtamo(p.269)perhapsalsofellIntotheTaka katavothrainantiquity,and wastaken,thougherroneously,forthe uppercourseoftheAlpheiosp. (comp.288).—Fromthispointwe mayreachSpartaeitherbythenewroad,orbytheoldbridle-path, whichpartlycoincide. The RoadleavingKaplreli(7f/2M. fromTripolitza),withthe villageofVlachokeraiiaonthehilltotheright,reaches(40min.) Alepochdri,ontheleft,andft/2hr.farther)astone-bridgeoverthe Saranta-Ptitamo.AboutY4hr.fartheristhekhanofBacho&ni, andl'/4hr.beyondthatis(16>/2M.)thenewkhanofKryavrysis (comp.p.273).TheterritoryoftheTegeansseemstohavehere metthatofSparta. Arachova(p.268)lies3hrs.totheS.E.ofKryavrysis.Thecarriage- roadfollowsthecourseoftheSaranta-Potamo,leavingontherighta palfeokastro,whichprobablymarksthesiteofthe ancientKaryaiorCaryae (Caryatides,p.75).Fartheronwepasstotheleftofarockyhill,sur mountedbytheruinsofamedisevalcastle. to Sparta. KHANSOFVOURLIA.36.Route.273 Farthern o theroad(nowidenticalwiththebridle-path)passes betweenthelow TzoHkaBillsontheleftandtheRousaHillsonthe right,traversesthePassofKlisowra(3066ft.),andreachesthe (1hr.)KhanofKokkiniLoutza,socalledafterthelittleplainwith itsredsoil.ThegreyheightsoftheMalevoMts.(p.267)become visibleontheleft.After1hr.moretheroadandbridle-pathdiverge. From theroadwe(Y2h*.)descrymassive the Taygetos(p.282). Inanother'/ghr.wereachtheKhanofDemetriosLcukis,andin 2hrs.morethe(28M.)KhansofVourlia(2005ft.),thefirstof whichaffordsnight-quartersifnecessary.ThevillageofVourlidor Vrylidsliesabout%M.totherightoftheroad.Hereweenjoya tineviewofthewideLaconianplain, boundedonthe~W.bythe massybulkofthemany-peakedTaygetos(p.282).Totheleftisa longridgeofhills,probablypartthe ofancientThornax;straight infrontisNewSparta,withMistratotheright(p.281). Thetworoutesuniteandagainpartatthesekhans.Theroad nowkeepstotheE.andpasses(31M.)thevillageofVouthianou, beyondwhichit isstillunfinished.Aviewissoondisclosedofthe valleyoftheEurotas,Mistra,andTaygetos.Wecrossastone bridgeoverthe(34M.)Kelephina(seebelow)andthenaniron bridgeovertheEurotas,andproceedthrougholiveandmulberry grovesto(37M.)NewSparta(p.274). The Bridlb-PathpassesKaparUi(p.272)alittletotheE., andinabout1hr.fromPialireachesthevalleyoftheSarantaP6t- amo,whichitascends.Totheleft risetheMarmaroMts.(4338ft.), withtheVerenaMts.,includingHill theHagios of Elias(4692ft.) ontheS.; totherightarelowrangesofhills.Atthe(2hrs.) oldkhanofKryavrysis('coldspring'),severalbrooksunitewiththe mainof armtheSaranta-P6tamoriver,whichflowshitherfromtheE. Thebridle-pathjoinsthecarriage-roadatthe(25min.)newkhan. About2hrs.beyondthepointwheretheroutesagaindiverge (comp.above), wecantraceancientwheel-tracksinalowvaleto theleftofthepath.Wethengraduallydescendtothelineofmul berryandplanetreesfringingthebanksoftheKelephina, thean cientQSnus(p.268),whichishere joinedbytheVar&kabrook, calledOorgylosbytheancients,onaccountofitsstrongcurrent. The(2'/4hrs.)KhanofKrevatdsisnowclosed.Thevalley,here 1 M.broad,wasthesceneoftheBattleofSellasiain thespringof B.C.221,inwhichtheunitedMacedoniansandAchjeansfinally brokethepoweroftheSpartans. TheSpartanarmy,20,000strong,underthecommandofthebrave kingKleomenesIII.,wasdrawnupwithitsleftwingonthehillthen calledEuas,theN.sidewhich of was washedbytheGorgylos,andits rightwingonthehillOlympot,ontheleftbankoftheGBnus.The hostileleftwingwasledbytheMacedoniankingAntigonosDoson,while therightconsistedchieflyoftheauxiliarytroops,making28,090men inall.Botharmiesplacedtheircavalryinthecentre.Thedecisive victorywasgainedchieflybytheenergyoftheyoungAcheeangeneral Phitopoemen(p.289). Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 18 274 Route37. SPARTA. About. 1 M totheS.W.oftheKhanofKrevatasrisesa broad- backedknoll,bearingtheruinsofanancienttown(perhapstheSkiritian Won),nowcalledPalaeogoulds.Fartheronrisesahillofconsiderable height(2726ft.)crownedbyachapelofSagiosKonstantinot.Theascent ('/■jhr.)isbestmadefromthekhansofVourlia.HerestoodtheLaconian border-townof Sellasia,thewallsandtowersofwhichmaystillbetraced throughouttheirentirecircuit(aboutI72M.).Itsfinaldestructionwas duetotheMacedoniansinB.C.221. Beyondthe(3/4hr.)KhansofVourlia(p.273)thepathbecomes steepandfatiguingandturnstotheW.In1xfehr. v?ereachthe oleander-grownvalleyoftheEurotaa,nowcalledIriormorecom monlyNiris.Wecrosstheriverbythehigh-archedKopanosBridge; oppositeareprecipitousrocks.Ontherighthankthereisanaque duct,probablymediseval.TheroadfromMegalopolis(R.38)now uniteswithours.In5mill,moreweseealargecuttinginthe rocks(possiblyanancientquarry),ontheoppositesideofthe river.WethenskirttheundulatinghillsofancientSparta,pass nearthetheatre(p.277)andtheso-calledtombofLeonidas,and reach(l1/*hr.)NewSparta. 37. SpartaanditsNeighbourhood. Hotels. XenodooriontonXenon,clean,bed2dr.,withtolerable restaurant,attheintersectionofthetwomainstreets$ Xenodochiontou Stemmatos,farthertotheS.—GoodCafioppositetheformerinn.— TheAgogiaUgenerallyliveintheenvirons. The presentSparta(Snaprrj; 735ft.),capitalofthenomarchy ofLaconia,with3600inhab.,gymnasium, a andseveralsilk-spin ningestablishments,isofentirelymodernorigin.Foundedin1834 underKingOtho,aftertheWarofIndependence,itislaidouton aremarkablyregularplan,withbroad,quietstreets,linedwith lowhousessurroundedbygardens.Itssituation,however,onthe S.hillsoftheancienttown-precincts,thoughbeautiful,issomewhat unhealthy.Thedecayof theancientandmediaevalaqueductshas deprivedthetownoffreshdrinking-water;whiletheimperfect drainingofthemarshyenvirons,wheremaizeisthechiefcrop, encouragesfeverinsummer.TheEurotas,nowcalledtheIri, flows'/aM.totheE.ofthetown,anddrivesseveralmills.At ordinarywater-leveltheriverisonlyatafewplacesmorethan 3ft.deep; atthefordshardly1ft.Thebanksareovergrownwith silverpoplars,oleanders,willows,andreeds.Intherainyseason itsometimesbecomesverymuchswollenand worksgreathavoc. The visitorsthese toremainsofoneofthemostfamouscities oftheancientworldmustnotraisetheirexpectationstoohigh. TherelicsofancientSpartaarescantyandinsignificant.Oneinvol untarilythinksofthewordsofThucydidesatthebeginningofhis historyofthePeloponnesianwar(I.10): 'IfthetownoftheLace daemonianswerelaidwaste,andnothingremainedbutthetemples andthesitesofthebuildings,Ibelievethatafteralonglapseof time,menwouldfindthefameofthecityonaccountofitspower

SPARTA. 37.Boute.275 quiteincomprehensible,evenalthoughtwo-fifthsofthePelopon nesusbelongtoit,andthoughitshegemonyisextendedoverthe entirepeninsulaandfarbeyond.'UntilthetimeoftheRomans Spartawasanopenplace,scatteredinarrangement(asitsveryname signifies),includingmanygardens('spacious1,saysHomer;'like a village'writesThucydides),butcontainingnocostlytemples. Thefourtown-districts(p.278)hadacommonAgoraormarket place,inwhichmanyoftheprincipalpublicbuildingswereerected. Theso-calledAcropolis(p.277)wasnotafortification,butwas coveredwithtemples.ThedefencesofSpartalay inbravery the ofitspeople, a fewstrongholdsatthechiefpasses, andthere motenessofthecountry.Thetownwasnotsurroundedwithawall untilthetimeofthetyrantNabis(p.276); andthiswasseveral timesrepairedandrenewedinthefollowingcenturies. TheLelegaeareregardedastheearliestinhabitantsofthecountry; andbesidethemwefindMinyae,andPhoenicianswhohadbeenattracted totheLaconianGulfandKytherabythepurple-yieldingmuricesofthe former.Theseraceshadcomebysea,butimmigrantsseemalsoto havecomeoverlandfromthe —firstjEolians,thenAchaeans,and lastlyDorians.These,however,didnotimposerulersoftheirownblood ontheland.Theroyaldignity,atfirstapparentlysharedbythree,and afterwardsby twoprinces,remainedinthe ancientnativesovereign familiestheAgiadae of andtheEuiypontidae(theJEgidae,athirdfamily, soonceasetobe heardof),andthesupposedblood-relationshipoftheseto the,Dorianprinces{EurysthenesandProkles,thetwin-sonsofAristodemos, theHerakleid)wasaninventionofalaterperiod.Thekingsunitedin theirpersonsthesuprememilitarycommandandthehighestpriestly dignity.NexttothemcamethecollegeofthefiveEphors,whichgradu allytransformeditselfintoa committeeofgeneralcontrol,andthe Oerousiayorcouncilof 28citizensover60 yearsofage.Thedecision uponallmattersofimportancelaywiththepeople.Thestableand permanentconstitutionofSparta,unfavourabletoinnovationsandall far-reachingenterprizes,wasoriginallyfoundedbytheLawsofLgkuurgos, whichareusuallyreferredtotheyearB.C.820,thoughthe personal identityofthelaw-giverhasalmostfadedtoa mythicalshadowamid thelegendswhichsurroundhim. From thealmostcompletelymountain-surroundedvalleyof theEu- rotas,thepoweroftheLacedsemoniansextendeditselfonallsides,some timesbydirectsubjugation,sometimesbytheimpositionoftheSpartan hegemony.Argosheldoutlongest(pp. 255,267);andtheSpartanyoke pressedmostheavilyonMessenia(p.349),themostfertileregionin Greece.ThethreeMessenianWarstookplaceaccordingtotheaccepted chronologyinB.C.743-724,645-628,and459-450.Spartafinallyconquered Argosalso.ButagainsttheArcadiansitgainednothingbuttransitory successes(p.302),anditwasforcedtobecontentwiththebarrenre cognitionofitshegemonyandtheclosemilitaryalliancewithTegea(p.271). ThetownofSpartawasoriginallyrestrictedtoasomewhatlimited space; andnearitatfirststoodthefortifiedtownofAmyklae(p.284),and alittlefartheroffLasfPharis^^EgystandprobablyQeronthrae^allunder nativeprinces, whocontinuedtoruleafteracknowledgingtheover- lordshipofSparta.TheDoricSpartansremainedintheminorityfrom theverybeginning.Therelationoftheseparatepartsofthecountry tothecapitalSpartawansettledonlyafterlongandbloodyquarrels, whichresultedintheemigrationoflargenumbersofthepeopleandwhich wereappeasedonlybyadivisionthesoil ofinconnectionwiththeLy- curgancode.Thewholepopulationwasdividedintothreeclasses:the sovereignDorians,calledLacedaemoniansorSpartiates,theolderAchaan populationorPerioikoi,whohadsubmittedvoluntarilyorbytreaty,and 18* 276 Route37. SPARTA. History, theHelotsorslate-slaves,destituteofallrights,whohadbeenovercome byforce.TheSpartiatesdweltmostlyinandaboutSparta,observing, intheiraccordancemodeofwithlife.theThepreceptscitizenoffromLykourgos,earlyyouththegreatestupwardssimplicitybelonged nottothefamilybuttothestate,andthisina muchmorestringent sensethanintheotherancientcities,whereasimilartheoryobtained. Constantpracticeinthe useofarms,andunceasingwarfare,atfirstforthe securityofthenewly-wonhome,andafterwardstoextendtheirpower, hardenedthecitizensandearnedfortheSpartanarmythereputationof beinginvincible. At thebeginningofthePersianWarstheSpartansweretherefore unanimouslyregardedbytheGreeksas theirleadersandchampions,but thefamewhichtheyattainedwascomparativelyslight,anditsoonbecame evidentthatAthenswasfarbetterfittedthanSpartatorepresentthe interestsofGreece.EvenafterthePeloponnesianWar(B.C.431-104),which resultedinthehumiliationofAthens,therewasnoessentialchangein thisparticular.Athensrebuiltitspoweronnewfoundations; andEpa- minondas, theThebangeneral,soonafterwardsexposedatLeuktra (p.172)andMantinea(p.293)thefeeblenesstowhichtheagingstateof Lykourgosbadsunk.AmongtheconsequencesofthecampaignsofEpa- minondas.whopenetratedtothecityofSpartaitself,weretherestoration ofMessenia'sindependence(p.349),andthefoundationoftheArcadian LeaguewiththenewlybuiltMegalopolisasitscentre(p.289).Sparta's attemptstohinderthedevelopmentofherneighboursmetwithlittle success.AfterthebattleChseronea of (p.161)itwascompelledbyPhilipII. tosurrendertotheArgives,notonlythe longdisputedThyreatis(p.266) butalsotheentiredistrictofEynouriatoapointbeyondtheportof Zarax(p.262);totheArcadians,Belminatis(p.286)andSkiritiswith Karyse(p.272); andfinallytotheMessenianstheDenthelichilldistrict (p.283)andthecoastasfarasPephnos.Subsequently,however,the Spartansmanagedtorepossessthemselvesofatleastthechiefpasses leadingtotheircountry,allofwhichhadIaininthecededdistricts. Under theenergeticandbravekingKleomenesIII(B.C. 235-220)the stateseemedtobeonthepointofregainingitsprosperityanddisputing thefirstplaceinGreecewiththeAchaeanLeague;butthebattleofSel- lasia(p.273)extinguishedthishope.Spartawascompelledbothtojoin theleagueherself(atleastforatime)andtopermitthePerioikoiofthe coast-townstojoinitalsoasindependentmembers. After theextinctionoftheAchceanLeagueandthesubjugationot GreecebytheRomans.Spartaobtained anindependence, apparentunder the'tyrant'Nobis(d.192B.C.)whonowsatonthethroneandharassed landandseafarandwidehis byplunderingexpeditions.Alongside of it,however,thereexistedtheLeagueoftheEleuthero-Laconians,which embracedtheprosperouscoast-townsandwasexpresslyrecognizedby theRomansasaseparatestate.ThesystemofLykourgosseemstohave lasteduntilfaronintheChristianera; andtheRomansalwayshada partialityforthefamousoldcityofheroes. The lastdecadeofthe4thcent.A.D.sawtheGothsunderAlaricin Laconia,wheretheylaidwastetownandcountry.Afewcenturieslater followedthepaganSlavs, whoseemtohavemaintainedthemselves mostpermanentlyinthemountaindistrictsofTaygetos.In theinterior, however,theByzantinesagaineffectedafooting,andmaintaineditlonger thaninanyotherpartofGreece. Spartawasrefortified,andatthetime oftheFmnkishinvasion,appearsunderthenameofLacedaemonia.In thewinterof 1248-49GuiltaumeII.deVillehardovin,PrinceofMorea, constructedafortressonthespurofMt.Taygetos,andthisnewcastle ofMisithrasbecametheseatoftherulerofthecountry.Anewand rapidlygrowingtownsprangupontheslopesofthehill,whileLacedse- moniafellintodecay.Mistrdremainedbutashorttimeinthehands oftheFranks.Villehardouinwasbetrayedandtakenprisonerbythe Byzantines;andaftertherecaptureofConstantinoplebythePalesologl in1261,hewascompelledtoacquiesceinthesurrenderofthefortresses ofMonemvasia(p.262)andMistrd,andoftheMaina(p.263).Thenew Tombf o Leonidas.SPARTA. 37.Route.277 Greek ProvinceinthePeloponnesuswasthusfounded,andConstantine Palaeologvs,'Sebastokrator',theemperor'sbrother,wasappointedfirst governorin1262.For200yearsLaconiaremainedinthehandsofthe Greeks. TheTurksinvadedthecountryin1460jandMohammedII.ledDe- metrios,thelastGreekgovernor,asa prisonertoConstantinople.In August,1667,Morosini,theVenetianCaptain-general,enteredLaconia andforcedtheTurksinMistr£tocapitulate.Monemvasia(p.262)became thecapitaloftheVenetianprovinceofLaconia.UndertheTurks,how ever,whoreturnedin1715,Mistraoncemore becamethechieftown, andremainedthemostimportantplaceinthedistrictoftheEurotas untiltheWarofIndependence. ThecircuitoftheancientSpartaissaidlatterlytohavebeen 48stadiaorabout6*/2M.; andthisstatementissupportedbythe numerousbrokencolumns,fragmentsofwalls,isolatedblocks,and thelike,whichliescatteredabout,halfburiedintheearth.These remainsarefoundbothwithinandwithoutthemoderntown,and asfarS.asthevillagesofPsychihSaudKalagonid,asfarW.as MagoUla,andasfarN.asthehillsmentionedbelow. The mostconspicuousofthesesmallruinsistheso-called TombofLeonidas,totheN.ofNewSpartaandontheleftofthe roadleadingtothehillsontheN.Itconsistsofarectangularsub structureofamonument,about50ft.longand25ft.broad,formed ofwallsmassive of squaredstones,twoorthreecoursesofwhich havebeenpreserved.Ithas,however,noconnectionwhateverwith Leonidas,forthetombofthatheroisexpresslystatedbyPausanias tohavebeenoppositethetheatre. About2 V M.fromthetowntheroadreachestheenceinteof themediaevalLacedaemonia,whichembracedtheN.hillsofancient Sparta,nowcalledPalseopolis.Ontherightisacomplicatedbrick structuredatingfromthemiddleages,about145paceslongand 47broad.Theroadheredividesandleadsacrossthehillsintwo arms,whichafterwardsagainunite. .TheW branchoftheroadbringsusatoncetotheremainsof twobuildings,whichithasbeensoughttoidentifywiththeSkias, anedificeresemblingahall,andtheTempleofKoreSoteira.Op positearetheruinsofaCircularBuilding.Alltheseedificesappear tohavelaintotheN.ofthemarket-place,inwhichstoodthePer sianHall, builtwiththebootyofthePersianwars, theTombof Orestes,andotherbuildings.TheeminencefarthertotheW.,which wereachthroughthefields,isusuallycalledtheAcropolis,a namewhichcanonlyrefertolaterSpartanhistoryandtothemiddle ages.Thereis,however,nodoubtthatthisgroupofhillswasthe pointatwhichtheDorians,comingfromtheN.,firstfortifiedthem selvesinordertoaccomplishthencethesubjugationofthewhole Laconianplain.OntheS.slopeoftheAcropolisliestheTheatre. Itsconstructionandfltting-upprobablybelongtotheperiodwhen Sparta'ssuccessesabroadwereleadingittoforgetthesimplicity andisolationenjoinedbyLykourgos.Thesizeofthe building, whichisexceededonlybythoseofMegalopolisandAthens,was 278 Route37. SPARTA. Platanistas. proportionedtothepopulationofthecity.Theorchestraisabout 150ft.wide.Withtheexceptionofthesupportingwallattheend ofeachside,thebuildingisentirelycoveredwithdebris.—The otherbuildingswhichstoodontheAcropolishavetotallydis appeared,amongthemthemagnificenttempleofAthenaChal- kioekos('brazen-house-inhabiting')orPoliouchos('shielderofthe city')builtbyGitiades.Eventheremainsof theByzantineperiod aretrifling,forthespotwasforcenturiesusedasaquarryby Mistra(p.281)andotherplacesintheneighbourhood. Still farthertotheW.,inthedirectionofMagoula,probablylay theDromot,orrace-course,andthePlataniitdi, anopenspace plantedwithplane-trees(Platanus)andsurroundedwithditches, wheretheyouthfulSpartanswagedtheirmimicbutobstinateand. oftenbloodycontests.InthetimeofPausaniastheHouseofMene- laoswaspointedoutinthisneighbourhood.Thebrookflowingby theN.ofthePalseopolishilltojointheEurotasisprobablythe ancientKndkion.BeyonditrisethespursofTaygetos.Thedouble hillinfront,crownedbyaruinedchapel,isperhapsthehillcalled Alpionbytheancients,partofwhichwasoccupiedbyhouses.— OntheE.sideofthePalae-opolisHill,outsidetheruinedmediaeval enoeinte,wenoticethe entrancestosomesubterraneanchambers, whichperhapsservedasreservoirs. Beyondn a interveningdepression,betweenthePalaeopolisand theEurotas, risesanotherhillofaboutthesameheight, from whichtwolowerspursstretchtothebedof theriver,wherethey descendprecipitously.BelowtheN.browofthespurtotheN.are thescantyremainsofcircular a Romanbuilding,whichwasformerly takentobe anOdeion; nothingisnowtobeseenbuta chaotic heapofstones.—Alittlefartheruptheriveraresomeremainsof amediaevalbridge,partlybuiltofancientmasonry; andscholarsare tolerablywellagreedinfixinguponthisasthesiteofthebridge Babyka,mentionedbyAristotle.AstatuteofLykourgosordained thattheassembliesoftheSpartan peopleshouldtakeplaceonly withinBabykaandKnakion(seeabove),i.e.'withinthetown-limits proper.' The. S spur,where,nearamill,arethebathing-placesofthe Spartanyouthofthepresentday,isadjoinedbythree otherhills, includedintheprecinctsoftheancienttownandseparatedfrom theEurotasbyanarrowstripofground.Fromtheconicalshape ofthesehillsthenativesbelievethemtobeartificial;butthede brisoftheancientbuildingsseemstohavecontributedbutlittle totheirformation. Its i nolongerpossibletoascertainthepositionsofthefour ancienttown-districtsmentionedbyPausanias: Kynosoureis,Limnue (wherestoodtemple the ofArtemisOrthia,thereligiouscentreof thewholeSpartancommunity),Mesoa,andPitana.Spartaproper shouldperhapsbeaddedtotheseasafifth. Museum. SPARTA. 37.Route.279 The antiquitiesfoundinandaboutSpartahavebeencollected bytheGreekgovernment,insofarastheycouldberecoveredfrom theirprivatepossessors,andconvenientlyarrangedinthehandsome Museum,attheE.endofthetown.Thekeyiskeptatthehouse oftheOymnasiarchos,andcanbeprocuredforvisitorsatanytime bythePhylax,whomaybeenquiredforattheinn.Afternoonlight isbest(fee1dr.). Vestibule.Casewithfragmentsofstatuesandheads; 442.Henna ofHercules,inhighrelief,fromtheRomanperiod,obviouslyanarchi tectonicornament.Bythe walls, Romandrapedstatuesandfragments ofsarcophagi. TheHalltotheRightoftheentrancecontainsalmostexclusively inscribedstones.In thecentreisaglass-casewithterracottas,orna ments,etc.fromtheMenelSion(p.280).Also,aremarkableSteleofthe 5thcent.B.C.,dedicatedtoAthenaPoliouchos,withaninscriptioninthe oldSpartandialectchroniclingthevictoriesofthecharioteerDamonon, anda reliefofhisquadriga.Nearitareseveralinscriptionstofallen warriors,which,accordingtotbenationalfashion,bearonlythename, withtheLaconicaddition'inbattle'.Amongtheotherobjectsarelists ofofficialsandinscriptionsofhonour,chieflyoftheRomanperiod. In the*HalltotheLeftoftheentrancethe ancientSpartansculp turesareparticularlynoteworthy.Thesearechieflycarvedinthedark- greycoarse-grainedLaconianmarble,whileinlaterworksPentelic marblewasextensivelyused.Immediatelytotheright,inthedoorway: 417.Reliefthe of6thcent.B.C.,foundin1881the indistrictofSellasia (p.274)andrepresentingthetwoyouthfulformsoftheDioscuri,to whom,asadistichbetweentheminformsus.itwasdedicatedbyPlei- stiades.Onlythelowerhalvesofthefigureshavebeenpreserved. On aRomanaltarinthemiddleoftheroomstandsfamous the and extremelyancientSpartanStele,perhapsasepulchral 'AvaS^fxaormonu ment.Onbothfacesaresomecuriousrepresentations,somewhatcrudein workmanshipbutadmirablyadaptedtothenarrowingspacesinwhich theyoccur;oneachsideisacoiledserpent.Thegrouponthefronthas beenvariouslytakentorepresentAmphiaraosandEriphyle,whoisreach ingafterthefatefulnecklace,forthesakeofwhichshebetrayedherhus band;or themeetingofOrestesandElektra;orthetrystofZeusand Alkmene.Thegroupontheback—amandrawinghissworda andveiled woman—hassimilarlybeenexplainedasAlkmaeon,thesonofAmphia raosavenginghisfather'sdeathonhismother,orOrestesintheactof slayinghismotherKlytaemnestra,orfinally,MenelaosthreateningHelen withdeathafterthetakingofTroy. Animageingreystone,very ofprimitiveworkmanship,which generallyliesbelowthetabletotheleftofthedoor,isperhapsstill older;itrepresentstheseatedandundrapedfigureofawomanwitha boyoneachside;thelimbsareassmoothandroundasthoughtheyhad beenturnedinalathe(muchinjured). By theentrance-wall,totheright,beginsaseriesofAncientLaconian Reliefs,eachofwhichrepresentsagodandgoddessenthroned,theformer holdinga'kantharos',thelattergraspingherveilj onefigureineachpair alsoholdsaroundpomegranate,whileotheradjunctsareserpents,dogs, andsmallhumanfigureswithsacrificialofferings.Theseareprobably sepulchral'Anathemes''(seeabove),thesittingpersonsbeingthedeities oftheunderworldor,possibly,theapotheosizeddeceased. Among theotherreliefs,mostlyofalaterdate,thefollowingmaybe mentioned: ApolloandArtemis,thelatterpouringwinefromavessel, a votive-reliefofa goodperiod;ReliefsoftheDioscuri(whowereheld in especialvenerationinSparta),sometimeswithandsometimeswithout theirhorses,andsometimesoneithersidetheir of sisterHelen,who appearsintheformofanarchaicimage; SarcophagusReliefs,withbattles 280 Route37. THERAPNE. Environs ofAmazons,childrenplaying,etc.; Reliefofayouthreceivingamusic- lessonfromanolderteacher.Thefollowingarethemostinteresting oftheHead*:ColossalHeadofHerculet\BeardedDionysos,in-several repetitions; 55.Hera; 53.iEsculapius; 58b.JupiterAmmon(?),ofagood Greekperiod;59.FineheadofayouthfulGreek(mutilated);337.Marcus Aurelius; 344.AthenainaCorinthianhelmet.Smallerorbrokenstatues: 30.SleepingEros; 22.FigurefromaRomanfountain; 90, 136.Decorative sculpturesoftheHellenisticperiod;94.FinetorsoofKros,withholesfor theinsertionofthewings(replicainSt.Petersburg);103.StatueofHy- gieia;115.TorsoofHercules;several statuesofKybeleenthroned. Above thehouse-dooroftheapothecaryKopsomanikas,on the E.sideof thelargesquare,immediatelytotheW.oftheMuseum, areatriglyphandtwoperfectmetopeswithbattlesofAmazons,from someunknowntemple.AbovethedoorofDiamantopoulos,onthe N.sideofthetown,isaroundarchitectonicmedallionofthean cientLaconianbluish-greymarble,withareliefoftheGorgons. TherearealsoafewunimportantsculpturesInthecourtofthe Gymnasium. IntheN.quarterofthetown,whichseemstohavebeenoccu piedbyvillasintheRomanperiod,twoancientmosaicpave mentshavebeenfound,of good,ifnotexactlyfine,Romanwork manship,bothofthemnowinthepossessionofgovernment.The largerofthese,representingEuropaontheBull,surroundedwith Cupids,thewholewithinanornamentalborder,iscoveredbya smallpavilion(key keptbythe'phylax'ofthemuseum).The otherandsmallermosaic,representingAchillesamongtheDaugh tersofLykomedes,isinthegardenofMozambas.butiscovered withearth.AbasinwithBacchicscenesisinaoourt,andagood reliefofwoman a inahousenearthegarden. TheprecipitousheightsontheleftbankoftheEurotas,tothe S.E.ofthepresentcity,indicatetheseatof theancientAchsean monarchsandofthetownofTherapne.TheChapelofSt.Elias whichnowstandshereisthesceneofayearly'panegyris'.Therapne inlatertimeswaslittlemorethanasuburbofSpartaandwasmuch frequentedonaccountofitsMeneUiion,orsanctuaryinwhich MenelaosandHelenwere worshippedasdivineandimploredfor strengthandbeauty.AhastyexcavationbyRossin1833-34un coveredasteppedplatformorsubstructureofblocksofPorosstone andconglomerate,about65ft.longand3-6ft.high.Theuppermost terrace, about40ft.longby20broad,seemstohavebornethe templeproper.Thedebriscontainednumerousvotiveofferingsin theshapeofsmallandflatleadenfiguresandafewofclayrepre sentingarmedmenandsingularly-cladwomen. The interestingExcursiontoMistrA(4hrs.thereandback) transportsthetravelleratoncefromtheancientworldintothe romantictimesofFrank,Byzantine,andTurk.Theroadcrosses thelittleriversofMagoulaandPanteleemon; theformerisbelieved of Sparta. MISTRA. 37.Route.281 toe b theancientTiasa,theS.boundaryoftheancientcity.Olive- grovesandmulberry-plantationscovertheplain.TotheW.,in successivestages,risesthebulkyformofTaygetos(p.282),between theoutlyingsummitsofwhich(severalsurmountedbychapels) yawnlargerockygorges('Langadaes'),eachsendingitssmalltorrent totheplain.Narrowpaths,visibleatagreatdistance,windupthe slopestothehigh-lyingmountainhamlets.Thevegetationisevery whereluxuriant. In lessthananhourwereachthevillageofPar6ri, which,like theimmediatelyadjoiningvillageofMistrd(quartersatthekhanor inaprivatehouse),totheN., issurroundedbyfinetrees.Anas centhenceoft/anr.bringsustothedecayingmediaevaltownof *Mistra,abovewhichrisetheivy-cladpinnaclesoftheruined Franco-Turkishcastleof Misithras(2080ft.; p.276).Takinga boyasguide,weproceedfirsttothe quaintPerileptosChapeland thento(10min.)thePantanassaChurch(knock;fee),theterrace ofwhichcommandsafineviewofthevalleyoftheEurotas.Thence weascendthroughseveralgates, passingtheAndktorontesBasi- USpoulas(Princess'sPalace)andthePeriodostesBasiUSpoulas(Prin cess'sWalk),tothegateofthecastle,lyingconcealedontheN. side.Thepathsbetweentheruinedhousesandchurches, which haverecentlybeenrestored,arefatiguing.Theinteriorofthecitadel isincomparativelygoodpreservation.Itcommandsabeautiful view, especiallybymorningandeveninglight, acrossthewhole plainoftheEurotas,withitslongreachofriver,itsvillageslooking likelargegardens,thesurroundingmountains,andtheabruptgorge ontheS.side.—OnthewaybackfromtheAnaktoronwemayvisit theEvangelktriaChurch,thebetterpreservedHagiotTheodoros Church,andtheMetropolisChurch.Anancientsarcophaguswith Cupids,besidetheKouvalispring,andanotherwithBacchantes, neartheMarmoraspring,shouldalsobenoticedaswedescend. fAscento Taygetos,U/aday,interestingandnotdifficultythenight isspentatAnavrytior ina shepherd'shut.—FromHistra, orfrom Spartadirect,the routeleadsvia thevillagesofHagiosJoannes(1070inhab.) and(3hrs.'fromSparta)Anavryti(2530ft.; 1400inhab.),situatedamidst luxuriantvegetationatthefootandontheslopeofthemountain.From Anavrytiweproceedpastthespotknownas'Lakomata*, withsome maize-fields,tothe(4hrs.)passofVarvara(4590ft.),wherethereisa shadyspringandashepherd'sencampment.In21/2hrs.morewereach thefootofthepyramidalMountHagiotElias,thehighestsummitof thecentralTaygetos(7900ft.),witha chapelonthetopwhereanim portantfestivalisheldinAugustSt. onElias'sDay.—Theabove-men tionedpassmaybereachedin4hrs.fromX&rokampos(p.284),viathe villageofKovmofola,withaspringandafineview.

From SpartaacrosBTaygetostoKalamata. Besidesthefamousroute'throughtheLangada'describedbelow (about11,fromTrypi9hrs.),thereisa longerandlessbeautifulroute leadingpastKaslanid(p.286)and MegaliAnattdiovaanddownthegorge of thejfedon.Bothroutesaredifficultmountain-paths,theLangada 282 Route37. LANGADAGORGE. Environs beingsometimesrenderedimpassableinwinterbyheavysnow-falls.The expeditionthroughtheLangadaisconvenientlycombinedwithavisitto Mistra, asmostoftheprofessionalagogiats, whoregularlytraversethe latterroutewithwine,oil,andsilk-wormcocoons,liveinMistra"or Trypi.ItisadvisabletodevotetheafternoontoMistraandtospendthe nightatTrypi, takingcarenottoleaveMistratoolate.Mules(10-12dr.) arepreferabletohorsesforriding. FromSpartato(1hr.)Mistrd,seep.280.—Astonyanddiffi cultpathleadsthroughawoodedvalleywithrockysidestothe shadyvillageof(IV2hr.)Trypi(850inhah.), wheresatisfactory night-quartersmayusuallybeobtained.Alargecaveinthevicinity isusuallyidentifiedwiththeKaiddas,intowhichtheSpartansused tohurlcondemnedcriminals.—Amoredirectroutedivergesfrom theMistr£roadattheW.endofSparta,andleadstotheN.W. throughfineorange-grovesandoverthelittleriverofMagovla.It afterwardspassesthevillageofVariovathe (onright),withaviewof Mistra,andgraduallyascendsthrougholive-woodsto(l^hr.)Trypi. Trypi liesattheentranceoftheimposing"LangadaGorge, whichistraversedbytheTrypidtikoPot&mi,oruppercourseofthe 'streamletofMagoula'(p.280).Thisstream, whichdashesfrom therocksatthebottomofthegorge, isswollenbycopioussprings risingclosetothepath.Theroutethroughthe gorge,whichin contrasttothisabundanceofwaterisofteneveninspringquitedry, leadsupanddownhill,sometimeshalf-wayupthesteeplimestone cliffs, sometimesinthenarrowbottomofthevalleywithitsoc casionalflueplane-trees.Thepathissoroughandatplacesap proachesso closetothecliff,thatridershavefrequentlytodismount. At theendoftheravine,about3hrs.fromTrypi,besideakata- vothra, thefirstterraceofthevalleybegins, traversedbycool springsandcoveredwiththeconsiderableremainsof aforestof Aleppopines.Graduallyascendingoverhillsofmica-slateand pastseveralkhans,wereachthe(1hr.)topoftheridgeatachapel ofthePanagia(4250ft.).Justbeforewereachit,wehaveare trospectoftheS.E. portionofTaygetos,withMt.St.Elias(p.281). Immediatelyinfrontofusextendsatable-land,scoredwithravines anddottedwithverdantmountain-pastures,whichgradually des cendstowardsKalamatainbroadterracesandgently-slopingridges. Aninscription, stillexisting, markstheboundaryherebetween LaconiaandMessenia; thedistrictiscalledafterittheOrammene Petra,or'inscribedstone'. Fromthepasswedescend, finallyontheE.vergeofthera vine'of;theDaphnon, to(IV2nr0Ladd,avillageembosomedin olive-plantations.Nearthebeginningofthedescentweseefora shortdistancetheseaatKalamata, thentheseaatPylos.Wethen descenda well-wateredravine,andascendtheoppositeslope, leavingTthevillageofKarvelialittletotheleft.Thebridle-path nowimproves, andgraduallyascends, generallyskirtingtheedge ofdeepprecipices.Roundingamountain-spur, thepathdescends acrossagreenplateau,and(2*/ahrs.fromLada)reachesthehamlet of Sparta. AMYKL^ON.37.Route.283 of AlonakiorChania.Closeby,alittleasidefromtheroad,isafine stalactitecaverncalledStoVyihismlno.TotheW.liesthepictur esquelysituatedconventofVelanidi,nearwhichvariousinscrip tionsrelatingtoArtemisLimnatishavebeendiscovered.This wholeregionusedtobeknownasthe'Dentheliaticterritory',and wasthesubjectofendlesscontestsbetweentheLacedaemoniansand Messenians.Aftercenturiesofdisputethematterwasdecidedby theRomansinfavouroftheMessenians(comp.pp.276,332). We descendfromAlonakiovercarefully-tilledhill-slopes,en joyingaline'ViewoftheMessenianplainandthesea.Belowwe reachthebroadbedoftheancientNedon,whichenterstheMessenian GulfatKalamata.ThetownofKalamata(p.347),whichwereach inlt/jhr.afterleavingAlonaki,isconcealedfromviewfirstbylow tree-cladhillsandthenbyitsAcropolis. FromSpartatoGytheion. .28M Carriage-road.Carriageinabout5hrs., onhorsebackabout 8hrs.Thedriversusuallyrestforseveralhoursatthekhanof Tarapia. —AnOmnibutpliesalmostdaily(fare8dr.). The roadfirsttraversesthepopulousandgarden-likeLaconian plain,abovetheorange-grovesanddarkcypressesofwhichrisethe precipitousandmassysidesofMt.Taygetos.Novillagesliedirectly ontheroad,buta fewtavernsarepassed.Wecrosssuccessively thestreamletsofMagoulaandPanteleemon(p.280) andathird 6tream(perhapstheancientPhellia),formedbytheunionofthe brooksofHagiosJo&nnesandAnavryti(p.281).Thehousesof Biviotissastandonthebanksofthislaststream. A littletotheleft,nearthehamletofTshaoushi,istheconspic uoushillofBagiaKyriake(l'/ahr.'sridefromSparta),witha chapelrestingpartlyonancientfoundations.Sincetheresearches ofCol.Leakethisneighbourhoodhasbeenregardedwithconside rableconfidenceasthesiteoftheAmykl^on,orsanctuaryofthe AmyklaeanApollo,whowasheldinhighvenerationthroughout Laconia.Therecentexcavationsofthe,GreekArchaeologicalSociety (p.94)haveremovedalldoubtonthesubject,whiletheyhave rendereditextremelyprobablethattheAmyklaeonwasmerelya sacredprecinctwithoutatemple.TheAmyklaeonbelongedtothe territoryofAmyklae(p.284)andwasconnectedwithSpartabya sacredroad.Everysummeritwasthesceneofafestivalinhonour ofHyakinthos,thesonofAmyklasandthefavouriteofApollo. AbovehistombstoodanarchaicstatueofApollo,surroundedbya richlydecoratedstructureofBathykles,theMagnesian. To theS.E.ofHagiaKyriake,andonthesame(right)bankofthe Eurotas,severalotherhillsareconspicuous.Ononeofthese,about S'/sM. fromHagiaKyriake,aretheremainsofanancientandofa mediaeval tower.If,ashasbeenconjectured,the ancientAcheeanPharit(Pharae) layinthisdistrict,therecanbelittledoubtthatthishillisthespot. A narrowwater-coursedividesthehillinquestionfromasmaller hill, onthesummitofwhichisaslightindentation.Thisspotisthe 284 Route37. KHANOFTARAPSA. whichsitef o awasTholosexaminedtomb,bynowtheusuallyArchaeologicalknownastheDomedin1889. SocietyTombLikeoftheVaphio,tomb atMeniili(p.120),thisstructureisbuiltrough of stoneslabs,onlythe entrancetothe tholosbeingconstructedoflargerblocks.Boththedome andthedromosweredestroyedatanearlyperiod.Thelatteris97ft. longand11ft.wideattheback.Thetholosproper,attheentranceto whichisasacrificialpit,isabout32ft.indiameter,anditswallsare stillabout9ft.height. in Intheinterior,towardstheright side,was discovereda tombhewnoutoftherock andbuiltupwithsmallslabs. TheNationalMuseumat.Athens(p.99)nowcontainstheweapons, ves sels, ornaments,etc.,whichwerefoundhereandintheother partsof thechamber.Thelatterwascoveredwithalayerofearthmingledwith ashes.—HencetothehamletofLevka(seebelow),min. 20 To therightof theroad,about41/2M.fromNewSparta,liethe villagesofSlavochoriandMahmoudBey,onthesiteoftheAmyklae (Amyclse)oftheAohaeansandMinyans.Thiscitywasoneofthe mostimportantinLaconiabeforethefoundationoftheDoricstate, andwasnotsubduedbyTeleklosandTimomachosuntila compar ativelylateperiod.InthetimeofPansanias(p.cx)Amyklsewasa merevillage,witha'SanctuaryofAlexandra',whomtheinhabi tants identifiedwithCassandra,thedaughterofPriam.Anumber ofarchitecturalremains,forthemostpartofnoimportance,have beenbuiltintothenumerouschapels(severalnowinruins)of Slavochorianditsneighbourhood.Theobjectsfoundseemtoindi catethat thesanctuarylaynearMahmoudBey. ThehamletofLevkalies^4hr.totheleftoftheroad.In ll/gbr.wecrosstheRasina(Erasinos?),whichalsobearsthename ofthevillageofXertSkampos(atthefootofTaygetos,about2'/2hrs'. ridefromSparta),whereitisspannedbythebrokenarchesofan ancientbridge.AscentofMt.St.Elias,seep.281.Thehilly table-landstretchingfromTaygetos,whichwenexttraverse,is namedBardounochoria.Thetower-likesquarehouses,whichlook downhereandtherefromtheheights,arestillverycommonin Maina(p.263).Theroadascendsinnumerouswindings(retrospect ofSpartafromthetop)tothe(1/2hr.)KhanofTarapsa.Thevil lageofthatnameispreviouslypassed,totherightoftheroad. ImmediatelybeyondthekhantheroutetoSkalaandMon- emvasia(p.262)divergestotheleft.Totheleftofthisroadlies thevillageofLevHsova(1600inhab.),nearwhich,ontheS.E. (betweenAlai-BeyandStephania),aretheporphyryquarrieswhich belongedinantiquitytoKrokiae. Fartherontheroadalternately ascendsanddescends.ForaconsiderabledistanceTaygetoshas lookedasthoughitendedinasummitdescendingprecipitouslyon theS.,butasweproceedweperceivethelinkwhichconnectsit withthemountainsofMainaandwithCapeMatapan(p.264).In l'^hr.wecomeinsightoftheLaconianGulf,theN.shoreofwhich isformedthe byplainofHelos,anamethathascomedownfrom antiquity.Thechief placeintheplainisSkala,ontheEurotas, 3M.totheN.ofitsmouth.Thescenerybecomeslesswild, and thehillsbecomelowerandmoreclosetogether. MAQEIRIA.38.Route.285 At (i3/ihr.)acemeterywereachtheterritoryofGytheion.A littlebeforethetownthesiteoftheancientcityliestotheleft, thatofthe sanctuaryofZeusTerastiosbytheclifftotheright. Gytheion,seep.263. 38. FromSpartatoMegalopolis. This excursiontakesafullday(H1/*hrs.),or,ifthedetourviaLeon- daribeincluded,day. TheroutetoMegalopoliscoincideswiththattoTripolitza,de scribedinR. 36,nearlyasfarasthe(II/4hr.)Kopanosbridge. Wedonot,however,crossthebridge,butascendthroughtheverdant valleyoftheEurotas,skirtingthebaseoftheAsimakisHill.Ona rockyhillontheoppositebankaretheremainsofdouble a wallof polygonalmasonry. Thetrack,onwhichancientrutsareherevisible,nextpasses closetoaspacious rock-cavern,calledPhournos,ortheoven('fur nace'),butitsmouthinthemoss-coveredcliffalmost is concealed fromviewbybramblebushesandthebranchesofawildfig-tree. SomeauthoritiesplacethegraveofLadas(seebelow)atthispoint; butitsdistancefromSparta(30stadia=o'/2M.or l'/3hr.)makes itmorelikelytobethespotwherePausaniassawanancientStatue oftheJEdds,orwomanveilingherself.Hedescribesthisstatueas a sacrificialofferingofIkarios,fatherofPenelope,whoentreatedher toremainwithhimasshewasabouttodepartwithUlysses.Pene lope,however,coveringherblusheswithherveil,hereannounced herdesiretobelongtoherhusbandandnottoherfather. Thepathcontinuestofollowriver, thethebanksofwhichare thicklygrownwithwillows,poplars,planes,andoleanders,with patchesofmulberry-treesandmaize.Thebaremountain-slopes aredottedhereandtherewithafewolive-trees.Neartheriver, totheleft,about1M.fromthePhournos,isalargerock-tomb, knownasMageirid,or'thekitchen'.Tracesofsimilartombsalso occurfartheron,sothatitisnotimprobablethattheHellenikd,a wallofmasonry20paceslong, closetotheroadandneara brook, maybethetomboftherunnerandOlympianchampionLadas. Thetomb, whichismentionedbyPausanias, wasbuiltatthe publiccostandlayabout50stadiaor5'/2M.fromSparta,adis tancewhichcorrespondsfairlywiththespotinquestion.Abun dantremainsofbrick-worktestifytoamoremodernoccupationof thestructure. Thevalleybeginstoexpandalittleabout2M.fartheron.Two gracefullyformedhills,withchapelsofSt.GeorgeandSt.Deme- trios,risetotheright,abovetheleftbankoftheEurotas.The ancientPelldnaisusuallysupposedtohavelainhere,although noruinshavebeendiscovered(p.286).Thewaterofthespring atthefootoftheHillofSt.Georgeisconductedinwintertoa millstandingontheriver.Thebankisprotectedagainst erosion 286 Route38. CHELMOS. FromSparta byawallofmasonryabout4'/2ft-high-Thatthisspringatone timesuppliedthetownofSpartaistestifiedbytheremainsofa RomanorByzantineaqueduct,whicharefoundhereandfarther downtheriverthe (atKopanosbridge,p.274). We continuetotraversethepleasantplain,graduallyascend ing,crossingseveral brooks,andkeepinggenerallyatsomedistance fromtheriver.Onthemountain-slopestotheW.liethevillages ofVorddnia,Kastrt(witha convent),Kastanid,Oeorgitsi(1960 inhab.),andAgdryani,whiletotheE.oftheEurotasisKoniditza. Inl3/4hr.wereachtheOeorgitsdnikaKalyvia,besidewhichrises a copiousspringamongtrees,withremainsofanancientcoping. Someancientandmediaevalruinshavebeenfoundonthehillclose by,andseveraloldtombsin theplain.Thenameofthisancient placeis,however,unknown,forPelldna(p.286)istheonlycity inthisdistrictmentionedbyPausanias,anditlay100stadiaor about4hrs.fromBelemina,mentionedbelow. About8/4hr.farther,afterwehavequittedthe courseofthe river,asecondspringrisesnearthevillageofVoutoukos,which liestotherightof thetrack,andthis alsoseemstohavebeencare fullyenclosedinantiquity,tojudgefromtheancientmasonryunder theneighbouringplane-trees.Wethencrosssomehillylandborder ingtheEurotas,traverseasmallplainyieldingwineandmaize, crossthestreamofLonganflco,whichisoftenterriblyflooded,and reachthebaseoftheconspicuousconicalhillofChelmos.Here liestheKhanofChelmos(l3/4hr.fromthespringatVoutoukos) belongingtothevillageofLonganiko,whichliestotheW.among theOnmountains,thesteep3summitM.aboveofMt.thepointChelmoswhere(2556wecrossft.),thewhichstream.maybe ascendedin1 nr.fromthekhan,liethewell-preservedruinsofa mediaevalcastle,andtheremainsofa strongHellenicpolygonal wall,strengthenedwithnumeroustowers.Thelattermaybere ferredwithalmostabsolutecertaintytotheancientBeleminaor Belmina,theborderfortressofLaconiaagainstthedistrictofMe galopolis,asSellasia(p.274)wasagainstTegeaandArgos.This strongposition,thecentremany ofcontests,recallsIthomeand Acro-Corinth.Numerousspringsriseonthemountain-slope,vary inginsizeaccordingtotheseason,andunitingtoformtheEurotas. Kephaldvrysis,the chiefsource,wellsupontheN.W.slope. The districtaroundthesourcesoftheEurotasandAlpbeiosformed theancientterritoryof jEgytis, so calledafteralong-vanishedcity, the siteofwhichcannotbedistinguished.Lyingbetweenthehostilecities ofSpartaandMegalopolis,itwasoftentheobjectoffiercecontestsin the laterperiodofGreekhistory.TheruggedmountainousregiontotheE. wasthechiefpartofthedistrictofSkiritit,whichwasatfirstArcadian andafterwardsLaconian. The DirbotBrtdle-PathtoMegalopolisascendsfromtheKhan ofChelmos,followingtelegraph-wires the , tothevillageofSkor- tteno,andproceedsthencethroughthevalley.AtZaimi,tothe to Megalopolis.LEONDARI.38.Route.287 left, theTheiofis,oneofthehead-springsofthe Alpheios,risesat thefootoftheTzimberouMts.ThencethepathleadsviaBoutsi andKoukoutaAgato(4hrs.)Megalopolis(p.289). TheRouteviaLeondariisconsiderablylonger.Wepassthe highesthead-streamsoftheEurotas,leavingthepastoralvillageof Petrinaonahighridgetotheright,andascendthroughseveral smallravinesto(3hrs.)thehamletofVoura,whichliesonafertile plateau.Thepaththendescendsgraduallytotheuppervalleyof theAlpheios; andin1 */«hr.morewereachLeonddri, underthe shadowofaruinedmediaevalcastle. Leondari(1895ft.: roomandtolerablefareintheKhanof Logo's,bargainingadvisable),asmalltownwith600inhah.,isfirst heardofinthe15thcent.A.D.andwasatthattimeinthepos sessionofthedespotThomaBPalaeologus.Thetownwascaptured in1460bytheTurks,underwhomitattainedsomeimportance.At thepresenttimeitproducesconsiderablequantitiesofgrain,wine, olives,andBilk.Theprincipalchurch,HagiiApdstoli,infrontof whichstandtwovenerableandgiganticcypresses,wasformerly usedasaTurkishmosque;besideitaTeaminaret,nowreducedto amodestbell-tower, andtheTurkishcemetery.Theinteriorcon tainstheremainsofaByzantinefloor-reliefandafewornamental tabletsofthesameperiod.—AnancientchapelattheN.endof thetownisdistinguishedastheMetropolis. TheshaTplydefinedAcropolis,surmountedbyafewscanty ruins,isthelastspurofMt.Taygetos.Itcommandsalovelyview ofthewholeplainofMegalopolisandofthesourcesoftheAlpheios, whichisformedbytheunionofthebrooksKarnfon,themodern Xerillas(totheW.),andTheioas(E.; p.286).TotheW.several massivemountain-chainsriseonebehindtheother: thenearestis theLykaeon(p.307),totheS.ofwhichisa partoftheTetrasi Mts.(p.315); totheS.W.isthesharppyramidalHellenitza (seebelow); andtotheE.Mt.Tzimberou(p.289). Fboh LeondaritotheKhansofMakeiflagi,21/4hrs.Wecrossthe Xerillas.ToourrightisthehillofSamdra,nearwhichliethescanty rainsoftheByzantine-FrankishtownofVeligosti,which,likeNikli (p.271),wasoneofthemostimportanttownsofArcadiainthemiddle ages.Toourleftrisethespursofthe Eellmitza(4255ft.).Beyond(l'/ihr.) Kourtagawemountthebarrenandsparsely-woodedhillsto{lUhr.)the highestpointoftheroute,wherewehaveaviewofIthome(p.350).Tothe IT.liestheHakriplagiPass(seep.290).—Wethendescendto\}fihr.)the KhantofMakriplagi(p.290). FromLeondaritoPhigalia,therouteleadsviaKotziridi,overthe Alpheios,andviathevillagesofDedS-BeyandCheremi(l8/4hr.).Thence toPhigalia,seep.314. The routetoMegalopolisdivergestotheleftfromthattoTri- politza(8hrs.,viaFrankovrysis,p.288),crossestheTheiovis (see above),andtraversesthesmilingplain.V/lhrs.Megalopolis(see p.289). 288 39.FromTripolitzatoKalamataviaMegalopolis. 2days.Carriage-road.1stDay.FromTripolitzatoMegalopolis,61/2lira. —2ndDay.FromMegalopolistoMeligala,B3/*hrs.,andthencebytrain toKalamata(p.347). Tripolitza,seep.270.TheArcadiancapitalsoondisappears fromview.TotheleftistheridgeknowntotheancientsasKresion, whichdividedtheterritoriesofTegea(p.271)andPallantion[see below).Theroadpresentlybeginstoascend.Firstontheright, thenontheleftisthenewrailwayfromTripolitzato Diavolitsi,now underconstruction.In1/2nr.wereachabaretable-land,scoredwith numerousbroadriver-bedsrunninginthedirectionoftheTaka plain(p.272).Totherightisamediaevalaqueductconveyingwater fromthemountainsof ValtetzitoTripolitza.InY2nr-morewe passthevillageofBoletaontheright,andin10min.morereach a waysidetavern.Ona conicalgreenhill,about11/2M.tothe leftoftheroad,includedwiththeneighbouringheightsunderthe nameofKravari(3670ft.;theclassicBoreion;p.272),liethe scantyruinsofPallantion,thehomeofEuandrosorEvander.This mythicalpersonagewasfabledtohaveledacolonytothePalatine HillatRomebeforetheTrojanWar,sothattheRomansunder theempireregardedPallantionas theirmother-city,andAntoninus Piusrebuiltandrepeopledthetown. Theroadnowrunsuphillandmakesawidecurvetotheright roundalateralvalley.The(3/4hr.)summitofthepassoiKalogero Vouni(2625ft.; 'MountoftheMonk')affordsabeautifulretrospect ofthevalleyof Tripolitza.Wedescendgraduallyintotheswampy, maize-coveredPlainofFrankovrysis(theAseanPlainofthean cients,fromthetownofAsea),boundedontheE.bytheKravari Hills(seeabove)andontheS.bytheTzimberougroup.Tothe left,inthedistance,isTaygetos. We passanotherwaysidetavernandreach(1 hr.)thecopious springsandKhanofFrajikovrysis('SpringsoftheFranks'; (2145ft.; 3hrs.fromTripolitza).Theancientsbelievedthatthere wasanundergroundcommunicationbetweentheAseanspringsand thehigher-lyingKatavothraofTaka(p.272)andwiththesources oftheAlpheios(Theious; p.286)andEurotas(p.287),whichap pearmuchlowerdownontheS.E.slopeoftheTzimberourange (p.289).Theformersuppositioniscertainlyerroneousandpro bablythelatterisalso.ThewateroftheAseanplainhasavis ibleoutlet(totheAlpheios)after onlyheavyrain.—Theruinsof Asea,oncethemistressthewhole of plain,liebetweentheabove mentioned, on khansa precipitous,truncatedmountaincone(the modern'Palae6kastroof Frankovrysis')totheright.Ontheslope towardsFrankovrysisaresomeimposingfragmentsofthepolygonal wall(IO1/2ft.thick)ofthelowertown,visiblefromtheroad. Farther on,totheright,arethevillagesofKondrSvaandAlfka, thelatternearthesiteofAthenaeon,wheretherewasatempleof MEGALOPOLIS.39.Route.289 Athena.Theroadcrossesseveralbrooksbymeansof stonebridges andgraduallyascendspastthe(IV2hr.)KalyviaValtetzikato (35min.)thepass(2425ft.)betweentheTzimberouGroup(4105ft.) andthehillstotheN.W. Thencetheroaddescendstotherightalongtheslope.As"we proceedwegraduallyobtainaviewoverthepopulousplainofMega lopolis,whichextendsfromLeondari(p.287)toKarytsena(p.306), adistanceofabout14M.,withabreadthof6M.Inthe centrelies thecapital.Megalopolis; totheS.risesthefinely-shapedHellenitza range(p.287);totheW.aretheTetrasimountains(p.315),with theancientLykseon(p.307)totheN.; andtotherightofthelast, beyondthelowhillsonwhichstandKarytsenaanditscastle,arethe KlinitzaHills(p.302).Wedescendinnumerouswindings;to'the plain(50min.fromthesummitofthepass),passbetweenthevil lagesofSidled(N.)andTso&paga(S.),andreach(35min.)— MegalopolisorSinand(1400ft.abovethesea-level;1200in- hab.),wherewepassthenightinthe'xenodochfon'(1dr.).Most ofthehousesarearrangedroundthechiefsquare.Severalofthe inhabitantspossessancientvases,coins,etc. The ancientMegalopolis(theLatinformoftheGreek-hueyaX7)no'Xic), theyoungestcityof freeGreece,oweditsexistencetotheThebans,who hadbeenstrengthenedbytheirvictoryatLeuktra(p.172),andespecially totheinfluenceofEpaminondas.AsinthecaseofMantinea(p.292)and ousMessenescattered(p.349),communitiessoherealso,andininducedW.Arcadia,themthistofoundstatesmanstrong oneunited:numer-common city,soas tobeabletodefythepowerofSparta.Tegeans,-Mantineans, Parrhasians—inallabout40communities—arenamedasthefoundersor colonists(otxtoraQ.AThebanarmyprotectedthemwhiletheybuilt their girdlewall,whichhadacircuitof50stadia(5V2M.)andappearstohave beenconstructedofstonemasonrybelowandofbrickabove.In338 B.C. AristodemosofPhigaleia,surnamedthe'Upright'onaccountofhisenergy andimpartiality,obtainedthecommandofthecity,andvictoriouslyre pulsedtheattacksoftheSpartans.Succeedingattacksbythesamefoe in 330andbytheMacedoniansin318wereequallyunavailing.But.in222 Megalopolisfellbeforetherelentlessenemy.KleomenesIII,theSpartan king,madehimselfmasterofthecitybytreacheryandlevelleditwith theground;onlyabouttwo-thirdsoftheinhabitantssucceededinescap ingtoMessene,underthe leadofthebravePhilopoemen(b.atMegalopolis in252;d.183B.C.).Thespeedyrebuildingofthetownafterthebattle ofSellasiaCP-278)wasunabletorestoreitsformerimportance.Wide spaceswithinthewallsremainedundertheplough.Thetown,however, existeduntilthetimeoftheRomanempire.—Polybius,thefamoushis torian,wasbornatMegalopolisin204B.C.fd.122B.C.). With thehelpofthedescriptionofPausaniasandanexam inationofthesite,weareabletoformanideaofthepositionof thevariousquartersofMegalopoliswithexactitude an possiblein butfewothercases.TheancienttownextendedtotheN.ofthe presentSinano,onbothsidesoftheHelisson(p.301),whichhere flowsthroughtheplain.IfwefollowthenewKarytsenaroadto (1/4hr.)nearthelargebridgeovertheHelisson, wehaveMegalo polisontheleft,andtheearlierOrestiaontheright.Theexcav ationsoftheBritishSchool(p.36)inbothhavethrownimportant lightontheconstructionofancienttheatres(comp.p.53). Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 19 290 Route39. MEGALOPOLIS.FromTripolitza AtalittledistancetotheleftliestheTheatre,datingessen tiallyfromthe4thcent.B.C.,builtagainstthefirsthill.Theaudi torium, turnedtowardstheriver, wasformedpartlybyartificial embankmentsandisthelargestinGreece.Itsdiameterisabout 475ft.Thelowerpartsoftherowsofseatsareingoodpreservation; thefirstrowhasacontinuousback. onwhichappearthenamesof thephylaof alateperiod.Eachendoftheovalissupported bystrongwallsofcarefullyhewnmasonry,batteringsomewhatat thetop.Theorchestra, whichconsistsentirelyofearth, issur roundedbyadeepchannelorcanal.Thetheatrehadnoparaskenia (eomp.p.63),butremainsofastoneprosceniumhavebeenfound. About20ft.behindthelatterisaninterestingmassivesubstructure, whichoriginallysupportedacolonnade20-26ft.inheight,and formedthefrontwalloftheextensivestage.Theactorsappeared infrontofthecolonnade.—AfewfaintoutlinesoftheStadion maybetracedtotheE.ofthetheatre.Thespringrisingherewas dedicatedtoDionysos, whosetemple, destroyedbylightning, adjoinedtheStadionontheE.TheThersUionortown-hall(named afteritsfounder),inwhichthe10,000delegatesfromallArcadia assembled,laytotheW.ofthetheatre, butnoremainsofitare extant. Ontheoppositebankoftheriverseveralbuildingshavebeen exhumed,includingtheTempleof ZeusSoter,thedivisionsofwhich are clearlydistinguishable,andfartherontheColonnadeofPhilip, whichlayontheN.sideofthemarket-place.Twobrooksenter theriver.Thesecondofthese(nowcalledKoumasi)istheancient Bathyllos,flowingpastthehillonwhichstoodtheTempleofHera Teleia.TheruinedcellaoftheTempleofAthenaPoliosmaybe madeouttotheN.W. FromMegalopolistoSparta,seeE.38; viaKarytaenaandAndritsaena toOlympia,p.305;viaFhigaleiaandBamikontoOlympia,p.311. Quitting MegalopoliswecrosstheXerillas(p.287)beyond Agids-Bey,turntotheS.W.,leavingDede-Bey(p.287)onthe right,andproceedtowardsthechainofhillswhichunitestheTetrasi (p.316)andHellenitza(p.287)mountains.Atthepointwhere themountainsbegintobehigher,notfarfromthehamletofPan- agiti,isamassofruins, perhapsthoseoftheancientKromoior Kromnos,fromwhichthesurroundingmountain-districttooktbe nameofKromitis.Thenceweproceed,pastaspringrisingatthe footofasharp-pointedrockyhill,totheMakriplagiPass(1970ft.), themainchannelofcommunicationArcadia betweenandMessenia. OntheslopebeyondthepasswereachtheKhansofMakriplagi, alsoknownbythenameofDerveni,or'pass'(i1/^hrs.fromMega lopolis).HencetoLeondari,seep.287. Copious springs,wateringthickgrovesofmulberry-trees,unite heretoformalittlestreamlet,alongwhichtheroaddescendsto theplain.Totheleft,opposite,isthevillageof Souli."Wecrossthe streamatthefootofthemountain,neartheKhanofSakona. to Kalamata.KHANSOFMAKRIPLAGI.39.Route.291 A bye-pathascendstotheleftfromSakonatothe(i1^M.)Palaeokastro ofKokla,wheretherearebothancientandmediaevalruins.Theformer probablybelongtothetownofAmpheia,capturedbytheSpartansinthe firstHessenianWar.W."Vischertakesthemedisevalfortificationfor Gardiki,wherethe inhabitantsofLeondariinvainsoughtarefugefrom theTurksin1460.—Anotherside-pathleadstotheright,viathevil lagesofPhilidandTrypha,totheso-calledSellenikd(p.353). Ourroadnowtraversesthe'upper'Messenianplain(7M.long, 3!/2M.wide),which,hardlyinferiorinfertilitytothevaunted 'lower1plainitself(p.349),wasnamedafterthetownofSteny- klaros(p.349),thesiteofwhichwasunknowneventotheancients. Thisfertileandwell-wateredexpanse,shelteredfromtheN.and E.windsbyscreensofloftyhills,iscoveredwithluxuriantgroves oforange-trees,fig-trees,olives,andmulberries,interspersedwith afewdate-palms.Thevineyardsandcorn-fieldsaresurrounded withimpenetrablehedgesofcactus;andinthevillagesthealoe attainsthedimensionsofatree.Wepasssuccessivelythroughthe villagesofAli-JelebiandSpanochdrito(3'/2hrs.fromtheKhans ofMakriplagi)Meligala(p.353). RailwayfromMeligalatoKalamata,seep.353.Tfepheremini, thesecondstation,isthestarting-pointfortheexcursiontoMes- sene,seep.348.

40.FromTripolitzatoJEgionontheCorinthianGolf. This routerequires4-5days.FirstDay.FromTripolitzabyMan- tineatoZevidi,41fe-5hrs.,exclusiveofhalts.—SecondDay.ViaOrcho- menostoPheneot,7*/4hrs.—ThirdDay.ToSoios,5hrs.; walktothepoint ofviewoppositethefallsofStyx,2hrs.; ifpracticable,firstpartofthe ascentofChelmos.—FourthDay.ToKaiavryta5-6hrs.,or,includingthe ascentofChelmos,about10hrs.—FifthDay.ToMegaspeiaecnhrs., andthencetojEgion6hrs.—Travellerswhocontentthemselveswitha hastyglanceatJheFallsoftheStyxmaypushonthesameeveningfrom SolostoMegaspelseon,bythedirectroute describedatp.298,andsosave oneday.Butthe longerispreferable. tour —Arailwayisbeingbuilt between andKaiavryta. Tripolitza,seep.270.Thebroadroadbringsusinabout 1nr.totheridgeofhillsrunningfromW.toE.whichformerly dividedtheterritoriesofTegea(p.271)andMantinea.Notfaroff arethehumblevillageofSedeniandaruinedChapelofSt.Nicholas. Aftercontinuedrainthewaterfromthehigher-lyingplainofTegea flowsthroughanarrowdefileintothemarshybottomoftheun healthyMantineanplain.Theregulationofthewaterinthiscourse seemstohavebeenoneofthechiefsourcesofthecontinualstrife betweenthetwotowns. At thetopoftheridge,whichisnowusuallycalledMytika,the roadcontractstonarrow a field-path.Tripolitzasoonvanishesfrom view; infrontofusstretchesagreenvine-bearingplain,contain ingnoregularlyinhabitedvillage, butonlyhousesusedatthe timeofthevintage.ThisistheterritoryoftheancientMantinea, theruinsofwhichlieatthefootoftheconicalGourzouli,insolow 19* 292 Route40. MANTINEA.FromTripolitza a situationthatwedonotseethemuntilwearecloseuponthem. TotherightrisestheabruptS.spuroftheAlesion(p.293),vis ibleevenfromTripolitza.TheAcropolisofNestane(p.293)is alsoseen.ThehillofMytikaisgenerallytakenfortheancient Skope,towhichEpaminondas,mortallywoundedatthebattleof Mantinea,causedhimselftobecarried,inordertodieinviewof thefieldofvictory.HistombexisteduntilthetimeoftheRoman empire.Hadrianerectedasecondmemorialstone,besidethean cientstele,whichboreepitaph an intheBoeotiandialect.Asanc tuaryofZeusCharmonalsostoodintheneighbourhood.There are,however,dataas notowhetherthesepointsshouldbelooked forhereorin theplainitself.Thewholedistrictwascoveredin antiquitybyanoak-forestcalled Pelagos. The BattleopMantineawasfoughtinthebeginningofJuly,B.C. 362.AfteravainattempttomakehimselfmasterofSpartabysurprise, Epaminondas(p.349)resolvedtocourtthedecisionofopenbattle.Withhis armyofabout30,000menhemarchedfromTegeain aN.W.direction throughtheforestofPelagos,passingMantineainordertodeceivetheenemy. Suddenlyhalting,however,hewheeledroundandadvancedagaintowards Mantinea.Hisprincipaltroops,theThebansandArcadians,weredrawn upinwedge-shapedformationontheleftwing,therightwasformedot theEuboeanauxiliariesandafewmercenaries.Thecavalrycoveredhis front.TherightwingoftheenemywasheldbytheMantineans,next tothemweretheLacedaemonians,Eleians,andAchwans,andontheleft wingfoughttheAthenians—inallalittleover20,000men.Theimpe tuousonsetoftheThebanspiercedphalanx theofMantineansandSpar tans;andthebattlewasdecidedalmostbeforeithadbeenbegun.But successwasdearlyboughtthe bymortalwoundoftheThebangeneral, whohadtooboldlypressedintothethickofthefight(seeabove). MantineawasalsothesceneofabattleinB.C.418(seebelow),and inB.C. 206ofthesanguinaryvictoryoftheAchaangeneralPhiloposmen (p.289)overtheSpartans,whowerehostiletotheAcheeanLeague.Philo- poemenslewtheSpartanleader,the'tyrant*Machanidas,withhisown hand. The roadfollowsthegenerallydrybedofthebrookforsome distance,atfirstthroughfieldsofcornandmaizeandafterwards throughvineyards.In1hr.(fully2hrs.fromTripolitza)wereach the streamletofOphis,acrosswhichabridgeleadstotheruinsofthe ancientMantineaorMantincia,nowcalledPalaeopolis(2065ft.). TotheN.risestheHillof Gourzouli(p.291),onwhichlaytheori ginalMantinea,andwhichinlatertimes,underthenameof Ptolis [i.e.Polis,oldtown),wasusedasarefugeintheeventofunsuc cessfulwar. TheoriginalfoundationofMantineaistracedbacktoMantineos,a sonofLykaon(p.308),i.e.totheearliestperiodofArcadia.Inthe PersianWars,500MantineanhoplitesarementionedamongtheGrecian forcesatThermopylae(p.199).Thecityintheplainwasbuiltatalater dateandwastheresultoftheunionofseveralruralcommunities,atthe instigationoftheArgives,whodesiredtohavea counterpoisetoTegea (p.271),nowwhollyonthesideofSparta.ThepositionofMantineaon thelowpassbetweenArcadiaandArgosmadeita centreoftraffic,in a countrytherestofwhichwasdevotedtoagricultureandcattle-rear ing.Itsearlycommercialprosperityledtotheadoptionofademocratic constitution.AnattemptoftheMantineanstoobtainpossessionofthe districtoftheParrhasiansandtheiradhesiontotheArgive-Athenian to JEgion. MANTINEA.40.Route.293 League involvedtheminstrifewithSparta.Adecisivebattlewasfought inB.C.418underthewallsofMantinea,whentheSpartanKingAgis de featedunited theArgives,Athenians,andMantineans,andrestoredSparta's hegemonyinthePeloponnesus.FreshcontestswithSpartaandthetaking ofMantineaby KingAgesipolis,whodestroyedthebrick-wallsbycaus ingtheOphistooverflowitsbanks,broughtaboutthecompletedesertion ofthetowninB.C.385.ThebattleofLeuktra(p.172)rendereditsre buildingpossible.Thedesireforindependencenextledthecitizens,who hesitatedtojointheArcadianLeague,topreferalliancewiththeSpar tans,whosedefeat,however,they sharedatthesecondbattleMantinea of (p.292)inB.C.362.ItsoppositiontotheAcheeanLeagueledtothe takingofthecitybytheAcheeansandtheirallyAntigonosDoson(B.C. 222; comp.p.276)andtotheseconddissolutionofthecommunity,which henceforthexistedonlyasanAchseancolony,underthenameofAnti- goneia.TheoldnamewasatlengthrestoredbyHadrian. The rainsofthetownaswenowseethemdatemainlyfrom themiddleofthe4thcent.B.C.OftheCityWallalittlemore thanthethreelowercourseshavebeenpreserved; huttheirwhole extent,almost3M.inall,maystillhetraced,with122round andsquaretowers,standingatintervalsof85ft.TheOphisflowed roundthewallshywayofmoat.Themasonryofthetowersismore regularthanthatofthewallitself; theirupperportionswerebuilt ofbrick.Eightgatesmaystillbedistinctlyrecognized,including theS.gatecalledXenis,bywhichtheroadfromTegeaentered, theOrchomeniangateontheN.N.W.,andaN.E.gatethrough whichled theroadtothespringMelangeia,nearthevillageof Pikirmi,connectedwiththetownan byaqueduct,and ontothe Argivemountain-passes.Onlythescantiesttracesarenowvisible ofthelargepublicbuildingsor ofthesplendidtemplesadornedwith statuesbyPraxiteles,Alkamenes,andotherfamousmasters.A fewremainsoftheTheatrestillexistamidthetilledlandthat occupiesthesiteofthecity,includingpartofthefoundationofthe rowsofseatsfacingtheE.,afewtiersoftheseatsthemselves,the orchestra,andthestage-walls.Excavationscarriedonbythe FrenchSchool(p.94)in1888havealsorevealedremainsofthe Gymnasium,withasemicircularedificeconnectedwithit,founda tionsofatemple,andotherrelics.Themoreimportantobjectsdis coveredhavebeenremovedtoAthens,theotherstoTripolitza. The hilltotheE. ofthetown,namedAlesion,shutsoffasmallside valleyfromthemainplain.Thisistheso-called'FallowField1(toapfov itsStfov),thewatersofwhichhavenooutletexceptthroughakatavothra (p.266).AttheS.endofthe'FallowField'risesahillbearingtheruined geiatownGateofNestdne,passestonearthetheN.ofmoderntheFallowTsipiand.FieldTheandroadthenfromdividesthe|Melan-intothe 'PrinosRoad'(8iairpfvou,socalledafterapricklyoak),totheN.,and thesteep'StairRoad'(8iaxXfucixoc),nownamedafterthe'Portfcs'.By eitheroftheseroadArgosliesaboutaday'sjourneyfromMantinea. In bye-gonedays,whenthedrainageoftheplainwasbetter, owingtothekatavothrasopeninginthemountains, andwhen Mantinea,'thelovelycity',wassurroundedbywell-tilledfields, tworoadsledhencetotheterritoryofOrchomenos.Atthepresent day thewholecountrybecome hasaswamp,andtravellersarecom pelledtomakeadetourbythehillsontheW. 294 Route40. LEVIDI. FromTHpolitta Inabout8/4hr.aftercrossingthebridgeovertheOphiswe reachthelargedouble-villageofKapsia,whenceanothertrack leadstotheW.toAlonfstenaandtheruinsofMethydrion(p.304). WethenturntotheN.W.intotheancientPlainofAlkinUdon,a lateralvalleyboundedontheW.bythemassiveandpine-clad heightsofMaenalonandOstrakina.Aridel3/« ofur.bringsus tothetown-likevillageofLevidi(2770ft.; 2000inhab.),the moderncapitaloftheuplandbasinofOrchomenos,wherequarters maybefoundin privatehousesorinoneofthelargerMagazia (dear).Levfdiliesonasitewhichperhapswasthatoftheancient Elymfa,attheW.endoftherangeofhillscalledAnchisiabythe ancients,boundingtheMantineanplainontheN.Theneighbour ingPanagiachapelmayberegardedasthesuccessorofthe ancient templeofArtemisHymnia,whichwashighlyveneratedasthe commonsanctuaryoftheMantineansandOrchomenians. Beyond Levfdiwedescend,andthenascendagainalongthe N.E.sidethe ofOrchomenianvalleytothe(1hr.)pastoralvillageof Kalpaki,whichliesontheslopeof theloftiestAcropolisinGreece, surmountedbyamediaevaltowerandtheruinsofOrchomenos.— FromKalpakitoDimitzanaviaMagoulyana,seep.304. The ArcadianOrchomenos(3070ft.),appearingalsoin the localformErchomenoe,wasinearlytimes,accordingtolegend,the mistressofthegreaterpartofArcadia.Thecitizenstookpartthe in battlesofThermopylaeandPlataea,anduntilthePeloponnesianwar weregovernedbykingsofthefamilyofElatos,the'Hi-man'.The importanceofthetowndeclinediulatertimes.Theascentfrom Kalpakitothesummit(Y2nr-)passesthreedistinctlinesoffortifi cation.Thelowestofthese,builtin aregularhorizontalstyle, datesfromthelatercityasPausanias(p.cx)sawit,whenthe inhabitantsdweltmoreontheslopesandnearertheirfields.The secondwallwasbuiltintheCyclopeanstyle,butcarefullyfinished. Asimilarwallisfoundatthetop(wherethereisaflatspaceof considerablesize),surroundinganuppercitadelandnowconnected withthe mediaevaltower.TheviewextendsfarbeyondtheOrcho menianterritory;theN.E. to arethemountainsroundtheStym- phalianlake;totheN.,wheretheAcropolisismostprecipitous, themarshapproachestothefootofthehillitself; totheE.isa narrowgorgethroughwhichthewatersoftheS.Orchomenianplain flowtothelowerN.half,bymeansofa'charadra'ortorrent; beyond riseabruptcliffs,theTrachy('rugged')oftheancients,nowcrowned withamediaevalwatch-tower.Athirdtowerofthesamesortstands atthebaseofthehillofOrchomenos,totheN.W. From KalpakiweproceedalongtheS.slopeoftheAcropolis, passingtheChapelofHagiosOeorgios,to(26min.)thevillage ofRoCsia,throughwhichleadstheusualroadtotheN. plainOr of chomenos.Nearthechapelaresomeruinedwallsconnectedwith thesecondlineoffortification.Theplain,especiallyinthecentre, to JSgion. LAKEOFPHENEOS.40.Route.295 continuesmarshyuntilfaroninsummer.IntheW.partofit, whichancientlybelongedtothetownofKaphyae(theruinsof whichlienearthevillageof Chetousa,6M.totheS.ofKalpaki), isakatavothra(p.187),nownearlyfilledup.Ourwayliesthrough theE.partoftheplain,passingtheTeneanSpringsandmassive cliffs,andthenentersawoodedravine.Afterpassingsomeshep herds'houseswereach(2hrs.)thehamletofBedendki.Wethen proceedthroughableakhillydistrict,betweenMt.Skiathis(modern Skipiesa;6330ft.)ontherightandJlfi.Oryxis(modernSaitta; 5950ft.)ontheleft,anddescendthroughapicturesquegorgeto (1hr.)Oouydna,avillagepleasantlysituatedontheS.bankofthe LakeofPheneos. The LakeofPhene6s(2440ft.abovethesea-level),thewaterof whichisgenerallyofadeepbluecolour,isnowabout9sq.M.in area.ItisboundedontheS.byMts.SkiathisandOryxis,already mentioned; ontheW.bythemassivePenteleia(6930ft.),now calledDourdouvdna; ontheE.bytheOerdnteionandfarther on bythepicturesquelyshapedKyllene(p.239),nowcalledZirid, andseldomquitefreefromsnow.Thelakeowesitsexistencemainly tothefactthatitswaterfindsonlya limitedmeansof exitinthe katavothra(p.187)nearGouy6za,atthebaseofthemountainsat itsS.end.Thestreamformedbythekatavothra,theancientLa- don(nowcalledBouphia),flowspasttheW.slopeofthesame mountains.ThechieffeederofthelakeisthePhoniatikoPotami. Inantiquitygreater thepartofthevalleywasoccupiedbyafertile meansplain,acrossofanwhichembankedthelittlecanalriver7lfaM.waslong.conductedThisvasttotheundertakingkatavothreewasby ascribedtoHercules,whoissaidtohavespentapartofhisyouthhere, afterhewasexpelledfromTiryns.Detailsabouttheentiredistrictare tobefoundinthegeographyofStrabo,whotookthemfromEratosthenes (d.194B.C.).AtthetimeofPa-usaniasthe valleywasdry,thoughthe rivernolonger flowedintheartificialcanal,butinacourseithadmade foritself.Inmoderntimeswehearofaninundationinthe18thcent., whichledtotheabandonmentoftheconventofSt.George(p.296).The presentcenturyhasseentwochangesinthestateofthevalley.Atfirst itwasalmostentirelyundercultivation,but duringtheWarofIndepen denceittransformeditselfoncemoreintothebedofadeeplake,which forsomeyearsafter1832steadilydecreasedinsize.Atpresenttheefflux andinfluxbalanceeachother.Achangeintheinteriorofthemoun tains,suchforexampleaswouldresultfromanearthquake,mightlead eithertoasuddendrainingoftheentirelakeortoaverylargeincrease initsvolume. The OryxisorSaittamountainsdescendprecipitouslytoward thelake.Thebridle-pathleadshighupalongtheE.bank,butis atfirstsonarrowthattworiderscanscarcelypasseachother.Dif ferentlycolouredmarksontherocksdenotethevaryinglevelsofthe water.Afterabout1hr.thepathdescendsintoasmallriparian plainandleadspastaspringtothe(21/*hrs.fromGouyfiza)vil lageofMousid.Wethenproceedthroughfieldsofmaizeandvine yards,passingMisan6,to(36min.)thebroadbedofthePhonidtiko PotAmiorstreamofPhonii(theclassicalOlbiosorArodniot),which 296 Route40. PHENEOS.FromTripolitta we cross.WeleavethePaladkaatroofPhoneos,withaChapelof HagiosStephanos,totheleft,andascendin35min.moietothe KalyviaofPhonid. About1 hr.totheN.E.ofthispoint,andabout3/*hr.totheN.of Wisanu,liesGoura,thecapitalofthedistrict,wherehospitablequarters maybefoundatthehouseofthedemarch,anaccomplishedphysician. TheKyllenemaybeascendedinone dayfromGoura(comp.p.239). TheKalyviavillage,nowofficiallynamedPhene6s(goodkhan inthePlatia)isconsiderahlylargerthanPhonidproper,whichlies higherup.Itisembosomedintrees.Thelittletownof'Phene6s', situatedabovetheN.vergeofthevalley,hasalwaysbeenthecapital oftheterritorynowoccupiedbythelakeandofthesurroundingmoun tains.AccordingtothedescriptionofPausaniasweshouldlookfor itonthesummitotHagiotElias,totheW.ofthepresentPhene6s, butonlyaruinedchapelandtheremainsofmediaevalfortifications aretobeseenthere.ButthehillnowcalledthePaUxe6kastroof Pheneds,withafragmentof apolygonalwallandotherancient muralremains,3/VM.belowtheKalyvia,ismoreprobablythesite ortheancienttown.InancienttimesPheneoswastheseatof a templeofArtemisHeurippa,whichUlysseswassaidtohavefounded, becausehediscoveredhislosthorseshere. FromPheneostoNemea,10hrs.Wefollowtheabove-described routetoMisann,andthereturntotheE.andascendtoasaddlebetween GeronteionandtheSkiathisMts.totheS.(p.295).Wenextcrossa barrenhillytracttoKionia hrs.fromPheneos),withthepictur esqueruinsofamedieevalcastle.About3/*M.tothe8.,onalakeofits ownname,are theruinsoftheoldtownofStymphalos,includingcon siderableremainsofthepolygonalenceinteofthecitadelandthefound ationsoftwotemples.Thelake(1930ft.),nowonlyabout3/4sq.M.in area, owesitsexistencetoconditionslikethoseatLakePheneos.Itwasthe abodeoftheman-eatingbirdswithbrazenclawsandfeathers,thedestruc tionofwhichformedthefifthlabourofHercules.Thewaterwhichflows outofthelakebyakatavothraatthefootofthemountaintotheE. re-appearsatthemillsofArgos(p.268),afteranundergroundcourse of22M. Attemptsarenowbeingmadetodrainthislake,andtoconduct thewatertoAthens.—Thebestroutefortherestofthejourneyleads viaBotsika,leavingtheruinsofPhliotistotheleft,toBagiosGeorgios (about4hrs.),wherewe mayspendthenight.ThenceviaNemeatothe railway-stationofthatname,2hrs.5seep.241. The routetoSolos(5hrs.)crossestheridgeabovePhenefisand thendescendsintoavine-coveredvalley,whereasmalldomed chapelissaidtomarkthesiteoftheConventofSt.George,before, itwasforcedbackbytheinundationsofthelakeinthe18thcent ury.Theconventnowstands1M.fartheron(50min.fromPhe neos),atthefootofMt.Krathisandthe onothersideofabrook shadedbyplane-trees.Fineview. Farthern o weproceed throughfragrantwoodsoffirsandother treeBandpastnumeroussprings,andinl'/ahr.reachthetopofthe ridgeofMt.Krathis(4746ft.).Wethendescend,followingthecourse oftheZarofichla.Thefirstgraduallygiveplacetothickgrovesof planetrees.In1 hr.morewereachZarouchla(3330ft.),apartof which,Kato-Zarodchla,liesontherightbank.Onthesame bank to jfigion. SOLOS. 40.Route.297 lies HagiaVarvdra,belowwhichwepassin25min.more.Nearthe villageofVounaki,atthehaseofthesteeprockyhillofKataphygia, 40ruin,fartheron,weagaincrossthebrook.Beyondthispoint weascendforV2flr- AtthefootoftheHillofHagiosElias,whichisaninteresting fieldforthebotanist,theStyxandtheZarouchlabrooksuniteto formastream,knowntotheancientsasKrathis(p.239).Ontheslope ofthehill liestheprosperousvillageofSolos(6S6Xo«;3435ft.), wheretravellersusuallyspendthenightinoneof themagaziaor in aprivatehouse.Wehereobtainafineviewofthemassive Chelmos.TotheN.liethevillagesofMesorougiandPeristera (p.298),whichalongwithSolosareknownasKloukinaes.Oneof thesethreevillagesmustrepresenttheancient Nonakris,after whichtheentiredistrictwasnamedinantiquity. The walktoandfromthepointontheslopeofMt.Eliaswhich affordsagood viewoftheFallsofStyxtakes2hrs.Oppositeus risetheloftyandprecipitouscliffsofthehugeChelmos(p.298). Thethreadofwaterdescendsfromoneofthese(650ft.high),against abackgroundofdarkmoss,whichhasearnedforthebrookthename ofMavroneri,or'BlackWater. Atthebottomofthecliffsthewater losesitselfin achaosofscatteredrocks.Itisonlyatthetimeof themeltingofthesnowthatthefallattainsanysize.Itowesits reputationlessits toownbeautythantothelegendsoftheancients, whosawinthebarrenmountain-tractaroundandintheicycold nessofthestreamanimageoftheunderworld,andsousedthe nameintheirrepresentationsoftheabodeofthedeparted. The waythencetothefootofthefalliaveryfatiguingandadds 3hrs.totheexcursion.Agnideisindispensable.Wecrossthebrook, traversealongrangeofhillsontheleftbank,andfinallyclamberover numerousfallenrockstothespotwherethefallingwateriscollected inarockybasin.Theairisicilycold.Anincautiousdraughtfromthe basinmightbedangerous,anditiseasytounderstandtheexaggerated assertionoftheancientsthatthewateritselfwasdeadly.Thespray of thewaterfallassumesbeautifulrainbowtintsatmiddayandreminds usofHesiod'sconceitthatIriswithagoldenvesselfetchedfromtheStyx thewaterbywhichthegodssworetheinviolableoath.—The summit oftheChelmos(p.298)maybereachedhenceinabout2hrs.byaroute leadingtotheS.,atfirstoveraprecipitousslope('Plaka'),thenthrough aneasieruplandravine. The ascentofChelmos(about4hrs.fromSolos;guideneces sary),whichmaybecombinedwiththecontinuationofthejourney toKalavryta,ishighlyinteresting.Astheviewisfinestsunrise, at travellersshouldstartfromSolosintheafternoonandpassthenight inoneoftheshepherds'huts('stani')ontheXerokampos.In 10min.theroutecrossestheStyxbyanarchedbridgeofstone, andascendstheslopeto(25min.)thevillageofOounaridnika, above whichweobservethefortifiedentranceofcave a heldbya fewGreeksagainsttheTurksintheWarofIndependence.We ascendfartherinzigzags.In1hr.,beyondasharpridge(5660ft.), wereachthe barrenandstony table-landoftheXerokampos(hence 298 Route40. CHELMOS.FromTripolitza to Kalavryta,seebelow).Wesoonoomeupononeofthesummer- hutsOftheherdsmen,wherethewilltohehospitablemusttosome extentbetakenforthedeed.Provisionsandwrapsmustbebrought fromSolos,sothatifnecessarythenightmaybespentinthe openair. At thefirststreakofdawnwestartonfootforthesummit(about 2hrs.),thehorsesbeingleftwiththeherdsmen.Thepathtraverses agorge,whichthesnowhardlyleaveseveninsummer,andthen mountsbyfatiguinggoat-tracks,overalowhillandaridgecom mandingaviewoftheprofoundravineoftheStyx,tothehorse shoe-formedaretewhichliesonlyalittlelowerthanthefoursum mitsof*Chelmos,theancientArodnia(7725ft.).Thenearestpeak (7680ft.)liesattheN.endoftheW.hornofthehorse-shoe; the highest(7726ft.)intheinnermostangle.Nearthelatterare the summerhutsoftheherdsmenofMazeika,avillagelyingtotheS.of Chelmos.TheviewembracesalmostthewholeofGreeceandisnot inferiortothatfromParnassos. The insularcharacterofthePeloponnesuspresentsitselfwithwonder fuldistinctness.Erymanthot(p.30)isseenwithgreatclearnesstothe MesolonghiW.,withthe■ toplaintheN.W.ofPatrasliesthetoPanachaikontherightof(p.it322)andorthecoast-plaincoast-linenearof JEgion;totheN.thelongGrolfofCorinth;totheE.Eyllme(p.239); tothe8.E.theArttmitim(p.242)adjoinedbytheParnon(p.267);to theS.theMaenalonMis.(p.294); andothermountainsofArcadia,and intheextremedistanceTaygetos(p.281).InN.Greece(namedfromW. to E.)risetheserrated jEtolianMts.,theKioua(p.150),thefinelyformed Parnastot(p.157),thebroad-backedHelikon(p.167),thedarkKithaeron p.175),andthesharplydefinedmountainsofAttica.Athenaiscon cealedbytheKyllene.MoreintheforegroundstandstheMegareanOera- neia(p.149),likehuge a pyramidfallenintothesea,dividingtheCorin thianandbaronicGulfs.—AscentoftheChelmosfromKalavrytavia Soudma,seep.299. From SolosMboaspeleon, to bythedirectroute.Wedescend thevalleyoftheKrathis,passtheneighbouringvillagesofMesorotigi andPcristira(p.287),andthentraverseabarrenmountain-region. Asthedistanceisonlyabout4hrs.,Megaspelajoncanbereached bythisrouteinonedayfromPheneos(p.296); buttravellersmust makesurethattheagogiatiswellacquaintedwiththeway,which mayeasilybemissed.Careshouldalsobetakentoreachthe conventbeforesunset,asadmissionafterwardsisnoteasilyob tained,evenbytravellerswithgoodintroductions.Megaspelaeon, seep.300. From SolostoMbgaspbl^onviaKalavryta.FromSolosto Xerokampos(l'/2-l3/4hi.),seep.297.Thewayisindicatedby stonepillars,whichareespeciallyusefulwhenthegroundiscovered withsnow.ItdescendspastthespringKrydvrysis, muchfre quentedbytheherds,affordingaviewofthegreenvalleyofKala vryta,andoftheErymanthos(p.30)andPanachal'kon(p.322)be to Mglon. KALAVRYTA.40.Route.299 hindus.Wepassthroughpine-woods,skirtingtheN.sideofa longnarrowravine.TheS.sideofthe ravineisformedbythe Velia,a ridgeprojectingfromChelmos,whichfartheronseparates theplainsofKalavrytaandSoudena(seebelow).Inabout4hrs. afterleavingXerokamposwereach— Kalavryta(2300ft.),aplacewith1240inhab.,thecapitalofan eparchyofthesamename,beautifullysituatedon bothsidesofthe Kalavrytastream,theErasinosoftheancients.Abovethetown risestheimposingacropolisofKastroorTremola,onwhichisa ruinedcastleofthepowerfulbaronsofTournay,probablyafter wardsoccupiedbytheSeigneursdelaTremouille.Kalavryta('beau tifulspring')owesitsnametothenumerousspringsinitsneigh bourhood,thechiefofwhich,thelargeKalavrytine,theancient Alyssos(so-calledbecauseitwasbelievedtocurefrenzy,Xusoo), risesatthebaseofanivy-cladrock.Theblocksofmarblewhich lieinfrontofitmayhaveformerlyenclosedthespring. About iy4M.beyondthespringliestheconventofHagiaLavra, foundedin961, prettilysituatedattheentranceofalateralvalley, openingtotheS.W.andwateredbyasmallaffluentoftheKala vryta.Thecourtcontainsahugeplane-tree.Fineviewtowardsthe plainofKalavryta.ArchbishopGermanosofPatras(p.29),Andreas Londos,andotherGreekprelateshereunfurled,inMarch,1821,the banner(nowpreservedasavaluablerelic)round whichtheGreeks firstralliedagainsttheTurks.ThevoivodeArnaut-Oglou,who commandedtheTurksatKalavryta,wasforcedtosurrenderwith 300menandwasexecutedbytheGreeks. TheplainofKalavrytabelongedinantiquitytothelittleArcadian clan ofKynaelheis the orSynathaeis,whowerenotoriousanddetested fortheirlawlessnessandindifferencetoallhighercivilisation.Their capitalKynaethaissupposed,doubtlesswithjustice,tohaveoccupiedthe 8it*iofthepresenttown. Accentf o theChelmosfeomKalavrytaviaSoudena,hrs.,com parativelyeasyasridinginpracticabletowithin1hr.ofthesummit.The routeleadsovertheVelia (seeabove)to(2hrs.)Soudena(3610ft.),the ancientLousoi,wherestoodafamoustempleofrefugededicatedtoArte misHemeraorHemerasia.Thenceweproceedoverahillofloosedebris, passingthe(23/4hrs.)Pouli-VrysU,or'bird-spring',andbeyondarocky ridge,a inhollowwithagoodspring,reach(l3Uhr.)thecampof the herdsmenofSoudena,knownasthe^Stroungaet'(6810ft.).Weattainthe N.summitoftheChelmosini hr.more.—Wemaydescendbythe fatiguingfootpaththroughtheravineoftheStyx(p.297)toSolos(p.297), in3V

41.FromTripolitzatoOlympiavia,Dimitzanu Thisroute takestwodays:fromTripolitzatoDimitzana9hrs.; thencetoOlympia10hrs.,notreckoningdetentionattherivers.Inwinter thesnowfallsamongthemountainsandthe]swollenstateoftherivers (p.304)mayoccasionhindrances.TheroutebyMegalopolis(p.289),Kary- taena,andAndritsaena(B.42),whichtakes1-2daysmore,ismuchpreferable. Tripolitza,seep.270.TherouteskirtstheTrikorphaHillsto theW.ofthetownandcrossestheS.ramificationsoftheMaena- lonMts., thechiefwater-courseofwhichisthewindingHe- lisson, herecalledthebrookofDavia.Soonafterleavingthe townweenterthenarrowmountain-lockedplain,theS.W.partof whichwasnamedbytheancientsTriodoiortheThreeEoads.The tombofArkas,themythicalroyalancestoroftheArcadianswas pointedoutthere.Themediaevalcastlewhichweseetotheright, inthedirectionofthevil',

42.FromMegalopolistoOlympiaviaKarytaena andAndritsaena. 3days.Carriage-roadtoAndritseena.—1stday.FromMegalopolis to (3hrs.)Karytaenaand(5hrs.)Andritsaena.—2ndday.Excursionto theTempleofBassaeandback,5hrs.—3rdday.FromAndritsaenato Olympia,fully10hrs.Theintermediatevillages,exceptperhapsKre- stenaorAspraSpitia(p.304), offernoaccommodationforthenight.This routeistheoneusuallychosenbytravellersfromArgostoOlympia. Megalopolis,seep.289.Thenewcarriage-roadtoKarytena (4hrs.)ispreferabletothebridle-path(3hrs.),though1hr.longer. Theroadleadsthroughthecorn-fieldsnearthetheatre(p.290)to (*/«hr.)thevillageofKasimi,andin12min.morefordstheHelis- son(p.301),herecontainingagooddealwater. of About'/jM. fartheristhelargevillageofVromosella,amongmulberrytrees, perhapsthe onsiteoftheancientThoknia.TheAlpheios,which flowspastcloseby,receivingPlataniston the (p.314),changesits localnameinthisdistrict; intheupperplainitiscalledtheXer- lllas(p.287),inthelower,theRiverofKarytaena.Itsbroadbed givestheriverspacetoseparateintoseveralarms,sothatthedepth isnotgenerallyabove1-2ft.Wecrosstheriverandthenasmall brook,andturninthedirectionofthelongPanagiaMountain,a spuroftheLykaeon(p.307),passingbetweenthevillageofKy- pariasia(perhapsoccupyingthesiteof theancientBasilis)anda hillbearinga chapelofHagiaKyriake.Wenoticeamongthe vineyardsherewine-pressesofthemostprimitivedescription,con sistingofsquarerooflessholes,linedwith masonry,about6ft. 8quareandhardlya yarddeep.these In the grapesaretrodden Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 20 306 Route42. KARTlT^ENA.FromMegalopolh and themustflowsthroughopeningsintosmalleranddeeperholes, whereItiscaughtInvessels.Fartheron,totheleft,isthevillage ofPhloriO.,nearwhichprobablylaythesmallancienttownof Trapezoid(p.316). The rockyroad,skirtedontheleftbyafoamingstreamlet,next bringsustothepicturesquebridgeofsixarches,thatspansthe AlplieiosatthefootofthehillofKarytaena.Atabletonthebridge, bearingaFrankishinscription,recallstheperiodofthetown'spros- purity.ThebedoftheAlpheioslowerdowncontractstoaprecipi tousravine.In'/jhr.fromthebridgewereach Karytaena,where travellersaredependentonprivatehospitalityforentertainment Karytaena,apicturesquelittletownof1400inhab.,withits churches, prettybalconiedhouses, andnarrowwindinglanes,oc cupiesthehollowbetweenthehighrockonwhichstoodthemediaeval fortressandthechapel-crownedHillofSt.Ellas.ThePanagiaChurch andtheChurchofHagiosNikolaosareattractivespecimensofBy- zantine-Frankisharchitecture.Thoughthenameisa corrupted formofGortys[p.302),Karytaenaprobablyoccupiesthesiteof Brenthe,atownwhichlayinruinseveninthetimeofPausanias. Thesurroundingsceneryisofunusualbeautyandgrandeur.Except ontheE.side,bywhichweapproach,thereddishrocksdescendal mostallroundinsheerprecipices.Onlyonenarrowpassageleads tothe*Castle[1910ft.),whichmorethananyotherstructureof the timeconveystheimpressionofimpregnability.'FeudalGreece', saysCurtius,'isembodiedhere,justastheHomericAgeisat TirynsandMycenas'.BesidestheenceinteandtheconspicuousN. tower,variousdwellingandstorerooms,alargecistern,adungeon, etc.,arestillpreserved.Theviewofthesurroundingmountain- rangesissplendid,especiallyofLykseou(p.307)andthe N.part ofthe plainMegalopolis. of Theerectionofthecastledatesfromthebeginningofthe13thcent., whenGeoffroy1.deVillehardovin(p.232),actingasregentforPrinceGuil- laumedeChampHtte,foundedhereabaronywithtwelvetributaryknightly liefs,andgaveittohisson-in-lawHuguesdeBruyeresin1209.Qtoffroy deCaryiina(d.1275),thesonofHugues,wasconsideredthemostillustrious representativeofPeloponnesianchivalry.Braveandaudacious,combin ingasimplenaturalfranknesswithindifferencetohisswornwordwhen itaffectedhisinterests,heisoneofthemostcharacteristicfiguresofthe time.Theimportanceofthecastledisappearedonthecollapseofthe Frankishfeudalstate.DuringtheGreekWarofIndependenceKolokotronu, thewell-knownKlephtchieftain,fortifiedhimselfhere,andIbrahimPasha didnotventureanattack. TheroadtoAndritsaenareturnstotheabove-mentionedsix-arched bridge.Ontheleftbankwebegingraduallytoascendthespursof theLyka;on(p.307).Fromthefirstsummit,about3/4hr.fromthe bridge,weenjoyafineprospect,totheright,ofKarytaenaandits castle,thelatterlongremaininginsight.Aboveustotheleft,on theslopeofLykseon,appearsthevillageofVragomdno,whence awildandcoldtorrentdescends,whichwecrossin3/4hr.We nowascendalongthe slopealofty ofrockymountain,onthesum to Olympia. LYKjEON. 42.Route.307 mitf o which(2420ft.)aretheruinsoftheancientKynourian Theisoa(nottobeconfoundedwiththeTheisoamentionedatp.303), nowcalledPalae6kastroofLdvda,afterthelargevillageontheN. slope(8/4M.).Thesmallsquareacropolis,whichwemayvisitby makinga slightdetour,wasconvertedinthemiddleagesinto a Frankishcastle,withatowercommandingaflueview.Remains ofthewallsandtowersofthelowertownalsostillexist.Theride fromKarytanatothispointtakesabout3hrs. Wenowdescendandin'/2nr-crosstheSoultinaBrookbya highstonebridge,alittleabovewhichisadelightfulspringunder ahugeplane-tree.Beyondthevillageof(40min.)Rdvia(through whichwealsopassifweavoidthedetourtoLavda)weagainas cendacrossdeeply-furroweddeclivities,traversedbynumerous smallstreams.Anewandimposinglandscapebeginstodisclose itself:totheleft,as acontinutionoftheLykseon,appearthePa- laedkastro(p.309)andtheMintheMountains,nowcalledAlvena Vouni(p.318);totheright,overthelowspurs,risethemoun tainsof theAlpheiosbasinaboveOlympia.Beautifulforestsofoak andmyrtle.In35min.afterfirstcatchingsightofAndrCtsaena wereachthatprettilysituatedlittletown(5hrs.fromKarytsena), seep.308. FromMegalopolistoAndrits^na,byadirectrouteoverMt.Lykseon, 8hrs.FromO/4hr.)Kasimi(p.305)weproceedtothe(20min.)junc tionthe ofHelissonandtheAlpheios,crossthelatter,andcontinuein landontheleftbankto(3/4hr.)Kyparissia(p.305).Via(20min.)Mavria weskirttheE.slopeofthePanagiaHillto(8/4hr.)Kovrouniou,i.e.about 3hrs.inallfromMegalopolis.Thenceweproceedbytheroutegiven below.Orderstothiseffectmust,however,begiventotheagogiats, whousuallyprefertheroadviaDragomano(p.30G). The RoutefromKartt^natoAndritsjenaovertheLykeeon isaboutlt/^hr.longerthanthatfirstdescribed.Thetworoutes areidenticalasfarasthefirstsummit(8/4hr.),butthesec ondrouteascendsstillfartherinthedirectionoftheE.browof thePanagfaHill.Wepassseveralspringsbeforereaching(3/4hr.) KourounioA.Thencewefollowthe slopeandproceedalongarough pathbetweenrockypeaks.Fartheronwedescendintoadeepgorge andascendagain,pastanumberofcopioussprings,to(2hrs.)the hamletofKaryses,so-calledfromthenut-trees(xapuai?)which formerlygrewhereingreaterabundancethanatpresent.Oneofthe largestsprings,closetothevillage,iscalledKerasiu.'cherry- or tree';itswaterflowsdowntothesmall plainroundthevillageof Kr&mbovos,onthemarginofwhichisasharprockbearingaruined mediaevalcastle,knownasthePalaedkastroofSt.George. FromKaryseswetake8/4hr.toreachthe topofMountSt.Elias, theS.E.peakofLykeeon,themodernDiaphorti.Accordingtothe mostancientPelasgianmythsRhea,sisterandconsortofKronos, heresecretlygavebirthtoZeus,whowasbroughtupbythewater- nymphsTheisoa,Neda,andIlagno,and putanendtothereignof 20* 308 Route42. ANDRITSjENA.FromMegalopolis his fatherwhenonlyoneyearold.Pelasgosalso,ancestorof the Pelasgians,firstsawthelighthere,andLykaon,hisson,wasrev eredastheearliestfounderofcities(pp.292,315).Thefestivalof theLykaeawascelebratedneartheholyprecinctofZens,which wassosacredfrommortalsthatwhoeverentereditlosthisshadow anddiedwithinayear.—BeyondKarysesthepathleadsoverrocks, throughdefiles,andpastscatteredfragmentsofwallandcolumns, toC/2nr.)asmallhollow,whereanancientTempleofPanissaid toberepresentedbysomeremainscalledHellenikdorSkaphfdia (i.e.'thetroughs',fromtwohollowedblocksofstone),consistingof aplatform,21paceslongand6broad,andotherfragments.A secondhollow(totheS.),withafewmoreancientremains,may havecontainedtheTemenosofZeus.In^4hr.more,beyond thesimpleChapelofSt.Elias,wereachthesummit(4660ft.), aroundcone coveredwitha thicklayerofbrokenandpartlyfos silisedbones.InantiquityanaltarofZeusstoodhere,ontheE. sideofwhichwere twopillarssupportinggildedeagles.Human sacrificewaspractisedhere,asatIthome(p.360),untilaverylate period.APanegyrisisnowcelebratedatthechapeleverysummer (20thJuly).The"Viewisremarkablyextensive,owingtotheiso latedpositionofthemountain,theonlyadjacentheightbeingthe highestpeakoftheLykseongrouptotheN.W. We overlookthewholePlainofMegalopolis,dottedwithvillages, traversedbytheAlpheios,andsurroundedbyagirdleofmountainsunit ingontheS.intheHellenitza(p.287).In thedistancebeyondrisesthe massiveTaygetos(p.281).Moretotherightappearsapartofthefertile Messenia.Infront,andapparentlyquitenear,isthelargeTetrasiGroup (p.315),continuedontheW.byMt.EliasandtheKoutraHills,withthe deepgorgeoftheNeda(p.316).TotheW.theviewrangesacrossthe Elelanplain,withthelittletownofPyrgos(p.324),andovertheseaas farasZakynthos(p.27); totheN.it isboundedErymanthos by (p.30). From Mt.EliaswedescendtowardstheW.N.W.In26min. wepassthemediaevaltowerofPyrgosKaryotikds,whichdefended thehollowbetweenMt.Eliasandthe Stephanijorsecondsummit ofthegroup,withthepeakofKondini(6070ft.),wheretherewasa templeoftheParrhasianApollo.Thenameofthehollow(Dia- phorti)hasbeenarbitrarilyextendedtotheentiregroup.Wethen followslope theoftheStephani,above passingthevillageofPa- Idtou,whichweseebelowus.In35min.wepassa coolspring. Wenowdescendoverhillsandthroughgorges,byapathsome timeseasyandsometimessteep,totheRiverofAndritaaena,and (IV2hr.fromSt.Elias)tothelittletownitself. Andritssena.—AccommodationinoneoftheKhansor atthehouse ofAnloniLeondarisMs,wherea spaciousroomandtolerablefaremay beobtained.Thehospitalityofwell-to-dofamiliesispreferable. Andrttsaena(2510ft.),with2100inhab.,issituatedonthe slopeofahollowwithnumeroustreesandvineyardsbetweenLy kseonandthePalasokastro(p.309),andisoneof thepleasantest littlemountain-townsofGreece.Thecleanhousesaregroupedon to Olympia. KRESTENA.42.Route.309 each ide sofaconsiderablemountain-stream.Thechiefpartofthe townisbuiltagainstacircularhill,ontheflattopwhich of area dismantledChapelofSt.Eliasandafewruinedhouses,but no an cientremainsaretobefoundeitherhereorin otherpartsofthe environs.FineviewofthegreenmountainsoftheAlpheiosvalley, extendingontheN.toErymanthos(p.30).Theschool-house containsaconsiderableLibrary,presentedbyapatrioticnativeof thetown,whohadlonglivedasalibrarianinParis. ExcursiontotheTempleofBassae,seep.310. ThedistancebetweenAndrftsanaandOlympia(10hrs.)isso greatandtheroadissobad,thataveryearlystartmustbemade bythosewhodonotwishtospendmorethanonedaythe onjour ney.WecrossthebrookofAndritssenaandridealongtheslopes, onwhich,atsomedistancestotheright,standstheChapelofthe HagiiTaxiarchi.Beyondaspringwebegintodescend.Tothe rightweseethevillageofMachald,andtotheleft,justunderthe summitofthePalaetikastro(4395ft.),isPhandri,avillagewhich haslosttheprosperityitenjoyedundertheTurks.Twobrooksflow pastPhauaritotheAlpheios;totheE.theRongotzttikoPotdmi,and tothe"W.theZelechovttikoPotdmi.Betweenthem,nearthevil lageRongotzid, of 3M.totheN.ofPhanari,liestheoldruined townofAliphera,nowcalledafterspring a 'Palae6kastro the ofNe- rositza'.Notfaroffisthelittleconventof Sopetd. ArouterunstotheN.W.fromPhanaritothepoorvillageofZacha, andthen descendsdiagonallytothevalley.Inl1/*hr.wereachthehank oftheAlpheios,whichhasnowheenswollenbytheLadonandtheEry manthos(p.304)intostream a of considerablesize.Thefordingthe of twoarmsoftheriver,whichhereformsanisland,takesnearlyV*hr.; andasinsomeplacesthewaterisover3ft.deepaspecialguideisusu allyrequired,whomustbebroughtfromZacha(5dr.).Weascendthe oppositebankandinl1/*nr-morereachAspraSpilia(p.304),situated highupontheslope. The routefromPhanarileadstotheW.alongtheslope,upand downhill,acrossnumerousgorges,andthroughfinegrovesofar butus,laurustinns,oaks,andothertrees.Thegreenvalleyofthe Alpheios,withthevillagesofHagiosJoannes,Piri,etc.,isalways insight(pp.305,306).TotheleftofthetracklieZelechovaand Vrest6,totherightPhtelia,Nivttza,andRaphti;fartheronare Longo,totheleft,andPlatidna,totheright.Inthe'Palae6kastro'or 'Hellenik6'abovethelast-namedvillage,4hrs.fromAndritssena, arepreservedtheinterestingruinsof theancienttownofApion. The firstvillageonthedirectrouteisGrekaorGremka,about 5'/2hrs.fromAndritssena.Afteranotherdip,thetrackdescends throughapicturesquevalleyto(2'/2hrs.)Krestena(300ft.),the largestplace(1370inhab.)in N.Triphylia,famousforitswine. Night-quartersmaybeobtainedfromoneoftheinhabitants.—To theW.ofKrestenaaretheruinsofSkilloHs(comp.p.320). Beyond KrestenawepasstheprettilysituatedvillageofMa- krysia(totheleft),traverseaflatplain,andreach(3/4hr.)theleft 3 10 Route43. TEMPLEOFBASS.E.FromAndrUmena bankf o theAlpheios,herecalledRouphid,whichwecrossbya ferry.Theferrymenaregenerallytobefoundhereduringtheday, andaresummonedbyshoutsofbdrka! bdrka! Foreachhorseand rider2-3dr.aredemanded,thoughtheusualfareis1dr.Olympia lies3/4M.abovethepointoflanding;seeB. 47. Thereis anotherbutsomewhatlongerroute,andmoretroublesomeon accountoftheriverstobecrossed.ThisalsocrossesthebrookatAn- drttsaena,andascendsthe oppositeslopes,butitafterwardsdescendsto (3hrs.)thehamletof Saekoltla(night-quartersifnecessary).Thencewe descendinanotherV2hr.totheAlpheios.whichcangenerallybeforded bythehorses,andproceedontheoppositebanknearBagiosJoannesand theruinsofBeraea.ThencetoOlympia,in6-7hrs.,seep.304. 43. FromAndritssenatoFhigalia. Thiss i ashortday'sjourneyof6hrs.—AnexcursionfromAndri- tsfenacommendedtotheTempletotheofpedestrian.BassosandAbacklocaltakesguideaboutlstous5hrs.,Stylow?and(2-3isalsodr.)is re almostindispensable,evenwithanotherwisewell-postedagogiat. Andrltsaena,seep.308.Passingthroughthestreetsofthe town,weascendtotheleftof theHillofSt.Eliasalongwell- the wateredandoak-coveredheightswhichconnecttheLykaeonwith thePalse6kastrogroup(p.309).Wereachthecrestofthefirst heightin1/2hr.andthencrossseveralothers.Thefreshandshady oak-woodsmakethepathveryagreeable,andvariousopenpointsallow prettyglimpsesofthesurroundingmountains.Afterl1^hr.the vegetationbecomesscantierandwereachthefootofafatiguing slopecoveredwithloosestonesandgravel,whichisascendedon mulesinl/shr.andonfootin8/4 hr.Atthesummitofthepass (3770ft.),whereacoolmountainbreezeisalwaysblowing,anex tensivepanoramaisunfolded.TotherightrisestheancientKdtilion, onthesummitofwhichstoodatemplewitha statueofAphrodite, rooflesseveninPausanias'stimeandnowalmostentirelyvanished. TotheS.W.glitterstheIonianSea.TotheS.weseeasection of thegreatMessenianplainandonitsvergethesharply-definedpla teauofMt.Ithome(p.350).TotheS.E.,beyondthedeepvalleyof theNeda,arethedark,woodedslopesoftheTetrasigroup(p.315). TotheE.arethetwopeaksofLykseon,dividedbythehollowof Diaphorti(pp.307,308). Anotherandalmostpreferablepath(2V-2hrs.)quitsAndritssenaatthe SoterosChapelandroundstheW.sideoftheAnalipsisHill,withviews ofKrestena,Tervitsa,andtheIonianSea. Descendingthegentleslope,amidsolitaryoaksandscattered rocks,wesuddenlycomeinsightofthevenerablecolumnsofthe **ApolloTempleofBasses(Bassai),forminga strangeand unex pectedpictureinthesewildmountainsolitudes.Thechoicethis of site,perhapsunequalledforthegrandeurofitsenvirons(comp. p.134),wasdoubtlessdeterminedbytheearlierexistencehereof averyancient shrineApollo,who ofwasworshippedasthe god ofhealth('Epikourios')inthisbreezymountain-district.Pausanias istheonlyancientauthorthatmentionsthetempleofBassaebuthis to Phigalia. TEMPLEOFBASS.E.43.Route.311 assertionthatthePhigaleianserecteditin fulfilmentofavowmade duringtheplagueofB.C.430-429isconclusivelydisprovedbya passageinThucydides,whichexpresslystatesthattheterrible epidemicwasconfinedtoAthens(comp.p.42).Thetemplewas, however,builtaboutthatdateorperhapsafewyearsearlier;for itwascertainlythefameoftheParthenon(p.65),atthattime spreadingalloverGreece,thatinducedthePhigaleianstoemploy thesamearchitectIktinos. Thetempleformsasingularexceptiontothegeneralrulein lyingfromto N.S.insteadoffromE.toW.; theentranceisatthe N.end(lowerendofground-planbelow).Thisdeviationfrom rulewasowingmoretothepositionoftheoldershrinethantothe formationoftheground.Thetemple,aDorichexastylelikethe TheseionatAthens(p.84),isabout125ft.longandabout46ft. broad,andrestsuponastylobateof threesteps.Thougheachend hascolumns, 6 thesides,insteadofhavingonly13accordingto theAtticrule,have15.Mostofthetempleisbuiltofahard yellowish-whitelimestonequarriedintheneighbourhood; onlythe roofandthesculptureswereofmarble. Thekernelof thestructureconsistsof thecella,withthepronaos andopisthodomos.Eachofthetwolastopenedontheperistyle, betweentwosmallercolumns(nolongerextant),andwasseparated fromthecellabyapartition-wall,whichinthecasethe ofpronaos waspiercedbytheentrance-door.Theinteriorofthecella,the frontpartofwhichwashypsethral,isnotdividedbycolumnsinto threeaislesintheusualfashion.Fiveshort cross-wallsprojectfromeachside(asinthe HeraeonatOlympia,p.333),shuttingin littlechapel-likespacesbetweenthem,and eachterminatinginanelegantIonicthree- quartercolumn,turned towardsthemiddle ofthetemple(onlythelowerpartsofthese, andtheunusuallylowbasesarenowextant). Thefirstfourcouplesofthesecross-wallspro jectatrightanglesfromthesides;butthe lastcoupleformacuteangleswiththem.The floorbelowthehypsethralopeninghasbeen slightlyhollowedouttocollecttherain-water. Thespacebeyondthecross-walls,extending acrossthewholebreadthofthecella,was roofed,andreceiveditslightchieflybymeans ofa doorintheE.side,andpartlyalso fromthefrontpartofthetemple.Thissin gulararrangementclearlyindicatesthatherewehaveanearlier shrine,turnedin theusualmannertotheE.,which,though rebuiltanddeprivedofitsN.wall,hasbeencompletelyincor poratedthe inmagnificentlaterstructure.Thebreadthofthis 312 Route43. DRAGOI.FromAndrilsacna originalsanctuary(shadedintheaboveplan)isdouhlethecolumnar distanceofthelaterperistyle,andthisperhapsexplainstheremark ablelengthofthetemple,which,asalreadyremarked,exceeds theusualnormbytwocolumns.Thepositionoftheholyimage (C),attherear-walloftheoldtemple,oppositetheE.entrance, Beemstohavealwaysremainedunaltered.Theoriginalbronze statueofApollo,ofcolossalproportions,wassurrenderedtoMegalo polis,whereitwassetupinthemarket-place.Duringtheexcava tionsinthetemplefragmentshavebeenfoundofmarble a colossus, whichprobablyreplacedthebronzeone.Afrieze,2ft.highand 98ft.long,ranroundtheinteriorofthecella,abovethearchi trave,representinginvigorousgroupsthecontestsoftheGreeks andtheAmazons,andoftheCentaursandLapithae(p.lxxxix). Thefirstandchiefcauseofthedestructionofthetemple seemstohavebeenanearthquake;butithasbeen hastenedby thehandsofmen,inordertoobtainthemetalwhichboundthe variouspartstogether.OnlythreecolumnsattheS.cornersare, however,nowwantingoftheentire38oftheperistyle; andthe architraveremainsalmostentireonthecolumnsstillstanding.A fewwhichthreatenedtofallwerefurnishedwithironbracesbythe Archaeological(p.94) Societyin1881; andthe redpaintofthese unfortunatelyinterfereswiththegeneralimpressionofthetemple. Thesmallercolumnsofthepronaosandopisthodomos,theupper portionsofthepilastersandwallsofthecella,andtheelaborately ornamentedceiling,eachcompartmentofwhichshowsa different pattern,all lieinfragmentsintheinterior. Forcenturiesthetempleremainedknownonlytotheshepherdsof theneighbourhood,untiltheFrencharchitectBocherdiscovereditin 1766.Owingtohisreportitwasvisitedthe followingyearbytheEng lishtravellerChandler,whofirstbroughtthetidingsofitsexistenceto thewesternworld.In1811C.R.Cockerelland/.Fortter.twoEnglish artists,KarlvonHalter,J.Linkh,theGermanarchitect,HerrGropiut, theAustrianvice-consulatAthens,andBaronvonStackelbergofEsthonia discoveredtheentirefrieze,consistingof23tablets,whichwereremoved toCorfuandsoldbyauctiontotheBritishGovernmentfor15.0002.Theynow formoneofthechieftreasuresoftheBritishMuseum.BaronvonStackel- bergFromOurwasroutetheTempleauthortoPhigalfaofofBassaethenowfirstdirectimportantdescendstoLykosowa,worktotheonseeS.W.,thep.315.wholeintothebuilding.gorge

oftheNeda.Afterpassing(V4hr.)a springwemountagainto thehill-terraceofKoumboulaesorSpolemi,wheretheancientvil lageofBassae('theravines'),belongingtoPhigalia, seemsto havestood."Wethendescendto(8/4hr.)thehamletofDragtSi, nearabrook,fedbycopiousspringsandflowingtotheNeda.(The ascentfromDrago'itoBasssetakesII/2nr0-Wenextpassasmall waterfallandthenVoika,avillagesurroundedbynumerousplane- treesandfig-trees,andcontinuetodescendtowardstheNeda, on theoppositesidewhich of areseenthevillagesofMavrom&tiand thehigh-lyingKoHvelo.FarthertotheE.,onthewoodedTetrasi,lies Sirji(p.363).ThepaththenleadstotheW.,atnogreatdistance to Phigalia. PHIGALIA. 43.Route.313 from theNeda,towardstheconspicuousruinsofPhigalefa.We crossseveralgorges,thelastoftheseriesbeingthegorgeof the ancientLymax,totheS.E.the ofcity.Wethenpassthespring ofDouni,thewaterofwhichjoinstheLymax.Theunited stream descendstotheS.,intothedeepbedoftheNeda(VouHiMPotdmiJ, formingthewaterfallsofAspraNerd,100ft.inheight. WeenterbytheS.dooroftheoldfortressandreachthelittle villageofP&vlitza(1520ft.),whichliesembeddedinvineyards, intheS.partoftheprecinctsoftheancientPhigalia,orPhigdlea (0^/2flrs-&omthetemple; night-quarterspoor). The mountainousdistrictofPhigaliaformstheS.W.cornerofAr cadia,andwasseveraltimesanobjectofcontentionbetweentheArca diansandtheLacedaemonians.Thelatterobtainedpossessionofthecity inB.C.659,butweresoonexpelledwiththe helpofOresthasion, an otherArcadiantown.A monument('Polyandrion')wassetupinthe market-placeinhonourofthefallenOresthasians,whohadtakenpart inthefightinconsequenceofaresponseoftheoracleDelphi. at The nameofPhigalefarecursseveraltimesinlaterwars,especiallyduring theAcheeo-JEtoliancontestsin B.C.221.Atthattimethe avariciousDori- machosandhisrobber-bandfortifiedthemselvesinthecity,quittingit onlyontheapproachofKingPhilipV.ofMacedonia(p.319).—The cultthe offish-tailedEurynome,whosetemplestoodina cypressgrove atthejunctionoftheLymaxandtheNeda,wasofveryoldstandinghere, aswasalsotheworshipoftheblackDemeter(p.314).Onaccount oftheirworshipofDionysosAkratophoros.the'godofunmixedwine1, thePhigalianshadthereputationamongtheGreeksofbeingintemperate. Thebestproofoftheirwealthandoftheirloveofartisthetemple ofBasste. TheruinsoftheCityWallsaresoextensive(aboutM.in 3cir cuit)thatwemayconcludethatPhigaliaservedas aplaceofre fugeandasarendezvousforthewholecountry.TheE.andW. sidesarethebestpreserved,whiletherearelargegapsontheother twosides.Severalgatesmayberecognized,andtherearealso numeroussquareandroundtowers,especiallyontheE.side,which isthemostinterestingofall.TheIrregularitiesintheconstruction ofthewalls,whichvaryinthicknessfrom6ft.to10ft.,pointto theirerectionandrestorationatdifferentepochs.Theregularhori zontalmodeofbuildingprevails,butportionsinthepolygonalstyle alsooccur,thoughthesearenotnecessarilytheoldestportionsof thewall. FromPavlitzaandthedeep-sunkenchanneloftheNedathesite ofthetownrisestowardstheN.E.Themarket-placemustbe lookedforinthelowertown,atornearthepresentvillage,while theAcropolis,whichwascrownedwithatempleofArtemisSoteira, laytotheN.E.Thelatter,onwhicharuinedchapelnowstands, wasprobablyconvertedintofortress a duringthemiddleages.Not farfromthePanaglaChapel,outsidethevillage,ispointedoutthe entrancetoanoldsubterraneanaqueductorsimilarconstruction, nowrilledup.NearertheAcropolisaresomesquarefoundations, calledbytheinhabitantsrij«fiaatXiSTiouXa?t

44. FromMegalopolistoOlympiaviaFhigalia andSamikon. Twodaysandahalf.1stDay.FromMegalopolistoStala,hrs.; fromStalatoKakaletri(Eira),3-372hrs.;thencetoFhigaleia^3hrs.—2nd Day.FromPhigaleiatoZourtza,3*/2hrs.; thencetoStrovitzi, 1 hr.5 thencetotheBathsofEaiphaor(directroute)Tavla,5hrs.—3rdDay. FromTavlatoOlympia,3hrs.—Inallcaseshaltsextra. Megalopolis,seep.289.Theroutesoondivergestotheright fromtheroadtoMessenia(p.290),crossestheAlpheios,herecalled theXerillas(p.287),andin1hr.reachesthevillageofChoremi (toLeondari,seep.287).LeavingDelihassantotheright,our roadleadsthroughapleasantdistrict(numerouswine-presses)cross ingseveralbrooks,andapproachestherightbankofthelittle streamofGastritzi,calledPlatanistoninclassictimes,inreference totheabundantplane-treeswhichthenasnowgrewnearit.Our trackini/4hr.passesaChapelofSt.John,shadedbyoak-trees. Theruinsopposite,ontheleftbank,besideasolitaryhouse,re presentthelittletownofDaseae.Wefollowthecourseofthe streamandbeyondsomehills,I3/4hr.from Choremi,reachthe heightknownasTerzi,abovethescatteredvillageofVasilis.On thisandtheadjoininghilltotheW.lietheruinsof theveryan cientPelasgiancityofLykisoura,nowcalledthePalae6kastroof Stdla(afterthevillagementionedbelow)orSiderdkastro. STALA. 44.Route.315 LykosourawasconsideredtobetheoldesttowninthewholeGrecian world,andtohavebeenfoundedbyLykaon,sonofPelasgos(p.308). Thisopinionoriginatednotonlyintheactualhighantiquityofthe city,butapparentlyalsothe inneighbourhoodofMt.Lykseonandthe similarsoundofthatnametothenameofthetown.Lykosourawasthe earliestseatoftheArcadiankings,whoafterwardsremovedtoTegea (p.271),andfinallytoTrapezous(p.306).Inlatertimesthetownowed itsimportancetothepossessionofatempleofDespoina,highlyvenerated byalltheArcadians.Inconsequenceofthis,theinhabitantswerenot compelledtotakepartinthesettlementofMegalopolis(p.289).Inthe timeofPausaniasLykosourawasalmostuninhabited. oCloset thehouseofthekeeperoftheantiquities(smallmuse um)ontheridge,aDoricProstyleTemplewasexhumedin1889 bytheEphoryofAntiquities.Thetemple,65ft.longand32^2ft. broad,hadsixcolumnsinfrontoftheprodromoswhichis17V2 deep.Thecolumnsareofmarble,theremainderoflocalstone. Intheprodromosstoodvotiveofferingsandinscriptions;andin thecellawasfoundthepedestalof agroupmentionedbyPausa nias,consistingofstatuesofArtemisandAnytosstandingbeside seatedfiguresofDespoinaandDemeter.Theremainsofthiswork, ofgreatimportanceforhistoricalstudentsofart,arenowinAthens (p.101).AdjoiningtheE.height,whichnowbearsaChapelof St.Elias,stoodtheancientAkakesion.OntheW.heightwhichis precipitousontheW.andE.sides,aconsiderablepartthe ofTown Wallhasbeenpreserved, especiallyontheS.side,whereoneof thegatesmaystillberecognized,buttheruinsby nomeanscon veytheimpressionofantiquitythatmightbeexpected.Amediae valfortresshasbeenerectedabovetheancientoneontheN.side. Severalsectionsofthewallaresothicklycoveredwithbushesas almosttoescapenotice.Wecommandhenceanattractiveviewof theplainofMegalopolis. Stala lies*/2nr-fartherupstream,ontheslopeofalongand broadspuroftheTetrasirange(seebelow).Immediatelybelowthe villagerisesthecopioussourceoftheGastritziriver.Aninterest ing'anthemion'isbuiltintothewallabovethedoorofthechurch. Theinhabitantsarechieflyengagedintherearingofsilk-worms. AstonytrackleadsfromStalavia thevillagesofDervouni,whichis visiblefromLykosoura,andVereklato(4-5hrs.)thevillageAmpelidna, of prettilysituatedinalateralvalleyoftheNeda,wherewemayobtain humblenight-quarters.ThencethetrackproceedsviaSklirouto(2V2hrs.) theTempleof ApolloatBatiae(p.310). We nowcrosstheGastritzi,climbgraduallyupa steeproad to(1-1'/ahr.)thesummitofthepassbetweentheS.spursof Lykseon(p.309)andTetrdsi(6210ft.),theNomiaOreofthe ancients.Hencewehaveafineretrospectiveviewofagreatpart oftheplainofMegalopolis.Wedescendthroughgreenwoodsto thesourcesof theNeda.InO/4hr.wereachoneofitshead waters,nearahumblemill,andin3/4hr.morethepoorbutpic turesquelysituatedhamletofKakaletri(2000ft.),surroundedby fineTheHill fruit-treesofHagiosandwateredAthanasiosbya(2900copiousft.),spring.whichrisestotheS.ofthe 316 Routeii. ZOURTZA.FromMegalopolis village,isnowusuallyidentifiedwiththeancientMessenianEira,the retiredmountainfastnesswhich, induringtheSecondMessenianWar (645-628B.C.),Aristomenesandhisfollowers,withtheirwives andchildren,maintainedthemselvesagainsttheSpartansfor11 years,untilat lasttheywerebetrayed.Broadterracesextendround theS.andE.browoftheAcropolis.Onthesummitisadouble girdlewall,thesomewhatroughconstructionofwhichissupposed tobetheresultofhaste; therearealsoremainsofotherbuildings ofsimilar a kindandtheruinsof achapelofHagiosAthanasiosand ofamediaevalfort.Themountainsceneryaroundusismagnificent. On theothersideoftheNeda,theuppercourseofwhichliesspread beforeus,oureyesfollowthemountainsofHagiaMarina,therounded Tourla,andthepointedMt.PenidistratotheLykaeon(p.309); totheS.E. liestheTetrasirange,which of Mt.Athanasiosformsaspur; totheW. arethebarrenXerovouni,risingabovethehamletofBiasimo,andthedark, woodedhillsofTzordkos,nearSirji(p.353). Mt.Athanasiosisconnectedbyasaddleabout300paceslong withthelowereminenceofHagiaParaskeve,onwhicharethe ruinsofsomefortificationsofcomparativelyrecentdateandalsoof otherbuildings.RossisofopinionthattheMessenians,afterthe restorationoftheirpowerbyEpaminondas(p.349),foundeda secondhere Eiraasamoreconvenientsite.Theruinedfortifica tions,whichareofconsiderableextent,giveevidenceofhavingbeen usedinmediaevalandmoderntimes.It isveryprobablethatthe chapelofHagiaParaskeve"isbuiltwiththematerialsandonthe foundationsofanancienttemple.—Wetakeabout1hr.towalk fromKakaletrioverMt.AthanasiostotheParaskeve,wherewe orderthehorsestomeetustocontinuejourney. our FromthehillofParaskevea steeppathleadsdowntotheedge oftheNeda,nowgenerallycalledtheVoutziktiPotami.Wehave tocrosstheriver,whichflowsinadeepwindingbed,andseveral ofitstributarybrooks.Thepathispicturesquebutrough.In l'/ahr.wepassthemouthof abrookdescendingfromKaletko, andfringedwithaluxuriantgrowthofplane-trees; oppositelies thevillageofMavrom&ti.In40min.morewecrossthestreamlet ofDragGi,andin other40min.reachtheruinsofPhigaliaand thehamletofPdvlitza(p.313)bythe routedescribedat p.312. Leaving theruinsofPhigalfabya gateontheW.side, we crossthelittlebrookofKrydvrysis,andascendtheslopeofthehill onwhichthevillageofSmerMnanowstands.Thehill,anciently namedElaeon('Mt.ofOlives'),isforpartofitsextentnowcalled Ardpis(p.314).Aswemountwehavea viewtotheW.ofthe sea,whiletotheS.,ontheleftbankoftheNeda,risethedecli vitiesofMt.Koutra(p.360),onwhichliethevillagesofPisa's, KaKlzena,andKaraMoustapha.Wecrossseveralothertributary brooksoftheNeda,andin3t/2hrs.reachthevillageofZourtza (1545ft.;1570inhab.),thecapitalofS.W.Triphylia,wheretoler ableaccommodationmaybeobtainedofNikolaosChristopko'poulos. to Olympia. LEPKEON. ii.Route.317 We nowkeepsteadilyalongtheslopeofalonghill,passingthe humble-villageof(40min.)Moundrdandseveralsprings,andfin allycrosstheriverThoUSandreach(1hr.)Strovitzi(night-quarters fromthelandlordof thebakalibesidethewalledspringintheW. partofthevillage).Strovitziliesinawell-watereddistrictamid fruit-treesandconsistsofthetwopartsEpano-RougaandKalo- Rouga,betweenwhichareddishrockyhill,withaflattopandfur rowedsides,projectstowardsthe Tholo.ThisheightiscalledKastro fromtheruinedmediaevalcastleatthetop; whileancienthewn stonesandcolumn-shaftsindicatethatbuildingsstoodherealsoin antiquity.Whetherornot thelatterwerefortificationsthereis, however,nothingtoshow.AhollowontheN.W.slopethe ofKastro issupposedtorepresenttheancienttheatre.Onasteephilltothe N.lietheruinsoftheancientcityofLepreon. This townwasfoundedbytheMinyae,whodrovetheParoreates andEankonesoutofthisregion.Acuriousmythaboutits'eponym' Lepreosrelatesthatheengagedinaneating-contestwith'Herculesand waskilledbythedemigodafterconsuminganentireThe ox.history of thetownturnsonitseffortstoachieveindependence.Initscontests withtheEleians,whowerecontinuallystrivingtosecureimportant the frontierpost,theinhabitantsunitedthemselveswiththeArcadiansand Messenians,whileonefactionsidedwiththeSpartansagainstthelatter. OwingtothislastcircumstancetheSpartansnotonlysparedLepreon, whentheydestroyedtheMessenianandTriphyliantowns,butrewardedit withseveraloftheneighbouringplaces.In thePersianWars200Lepreans arementionedatPlatEea.SubsequentlytheEleiansagainestablished theirpoweroverthetown andmaintainedit,withtheexceptionofa shortSpartanoccupationinB.C.420,untilthecloseofthecentury.In B.C.399LepreonandseveralothertownsofTriphyliaandPisatisagain succeededinobtainingindependence,whichtheypreservedthroughalliance withtheArcadiansandafterwardswiththeAchseanLeagueuntilthe collapseofthelatter.In thetimeofPausaniasthetownlayinruins. A footpathascendsthroughthegorgebetweentheAcropolis andthehillontheW.asfarastheridgeconnectingthem,whereit leadstotherighttotheAcropolis.Beforereachingthelatter,we noticewall aonItsN.verge,builtinthemiddleagesoutof anci entmaterials,andservingasadefenceagainstattacksfromthe woodedgorgeontheN.Inabout*/2hr.afterleavingStrovitziwe suddenlyarriveattheAncientCitadel.Thefirstpartofthisthat meetstheeyeisasquarestructure,theregularandfairlypreserved hewn-stonewallsofwhich,withtheirtowersanddoors,remind usofMessene(p.350).Connectedwiththis,totheN.E.,isan outwork,thearchaicpolygonalwallsandtowersofwhichevidently datefromamuchearlierperiod.Awallofsimilarcharacterstretch eshencedownthesteepdeclivitytowardStrovitzi,andiscalled bythepeasantsthe'skala',becauseitsruinedstategivesitthe appearanceofastair.Theseolder portionsareascribedtothe Minyancity; whilethesquarefortressisreferredtothetimeof Epaminondas.OntheAcropolisitselfarethe scantyremainsof the foundationsof asmalltemple, closelyresemblingtheMetroonat Olympia(p.335)insizeandgronnd-plan.TheAcropoliscommands a flneviewoftherichlywoodedplateauandofthesea. 318 Route44. MT.KAIPHA.FromMegalopolis ThelittleriverThol6entersthe seaabout6>/2M.tothe8.W.of Strovitzi,andiy2M.totheN. of theKhanofVoutzi(p.360).About halfwaytothesea,ontheleftbank,liestheTillageofEagiosElias, withremainsofthewalloftheancientPyrgoi. The routetoSamikonleadstotheW.,skirtingtheAcropolis ofLepreon,andthenbeginstoascendtotheN.towardsthegrey AlvenaVouni (4010ft.).Inaboutl'/2hr.wefindourselves half-wayupa precipitousoak-coveredrockyheightonwhichlies asmallfortressdatingfromtheremotestantiquity,nowcalledthe Palae6kastrotesKalliddnesorOyphtdkastro(gipsy'scastle).This hasbeentaken,butprobablyerroneously,fortheabodeofNestor (comp.p.356),evenbyStraboandotherancientauthorities.We reachthespotinafewminutesonfoot.Thewalls,ofaveryan tiquemodeofconstruction,are ft.thickandhaveatleastfour towersandonlyoneentrance;theyarenowabout3ft.high.Inthe spacewithinthewalls,nowovergrownwithbushes,areremainsof similarcharacter,about6ft.inheight.—Continuingourjourney, passingaspringbeneathafineplane-tree,wereachin8/4hrs.more Kallidona,avillagedatingfromthe"WarofIndependence,during whichtheinhabitantsofthevillageofS&rena,situatedlowerdown, tookrefugeheretoavoidtheTurkishtroops.Fromthispointthe above-mentionedPalaeokastro,oppositethehillofHagiosOeorgioa ofKallidona,the presentsappearanceofasteepandinaccessiblecone. Another pathfromStrovitzireachesinabouti nr.thevillageof Morphlilza.whereacopiousspringrisesbeneathagiganticplane-tree.In theneighbourhoodarevariousruinsoftheByzantineperiod.Thencewe proceedthroughwoodedravines,and uphilldownhill,inabout2hrs.to Kallidona. Wenextpassoverwoodedhillsandacrossabrookto(8/4hr. fromKallidona)thepleasantvillageofPiskini,beyondwhichwe descendgraduallythroughcultivatedfieldstothe(8/4nr.)village ofZachdro(1180inhab.)andtheancientPylianPlain.This plain,onwhichlargequantitiesofcurrantsandgrainareraised,is about9M.longand11/2M.wideandstretchesalongtheshorefrom themouthoftheNeda(p.360)totheKaiaphaMts.(seebelow). TowardsitsN.marginliestheLakeofKai&pha,whichisseparated fromtheseabyabroadstripofwoodedsand-hills.Thecoast-road fromMesseniatoElis,whichwenowfollow,runsalongthisstrip. Byturningtotheright,neararuinedbarrack,l1^nr.beyond Zacharo,wereachtheBathsofKaiapha(5hrs.fromStrovitzi), builtonapeninsulastretchingintothelake,andopeninsummer only(R.2-3dr.; small*Kestaurant; gnatsverytroublesome).On the E.sideofthelakerisestheprecipitousMt.Kai&pha,probably theancientMakistos; andfromseveralwidefissuresitsfoot atissue warmsulphuroussprings,themostcopiousinalargecavecontain ing thebathsforpatients.Thecaveandspringswerebothknown andusedinantiquity,buttheancientconformationoftheground, asdescribedbyPausanias,whomentionsnolake,musthavebeen quitedifferentfromitspresentcondition. to Olympia. SAMIKON. 44.Route.319 About*/2hi.beyondthepointwherethewaytothebaths diverges,thecoast-roadtraversesthepassofKlidi(xXetBf,'key'), betweentheLakeofKaiaphaandtheLakeofAgoulenitza(12sq.M.) ontheN.ThenarrowpassageisdefendedbyaTurkishfort;and theshortstreamwhichconnectsthetwolakesisspannedbyastone bridge.ItwasprobablyinthisregionthatthetempleoftheSamic Poseidonstood,thefederalsanctuaryoftheTriphyliantowns; but hithertonotracesofithavebeendiscovered. FromKlidItoPtrgos(5hrs.).Wefollowcoast-route, the which punsalongtheE.bankofthemarshylakeofAgoulenitza(well-stocked withfish)andpastthevillages.ofAHJelebiandAnemochdri(totheW.)to (372hrs.)Agoulenitza.Thislargevillage(240")inhab.)liesamongfieldsof currantsandgrain,onaprojectingheight,whichwasprobablythesite ofThryonorThryoessa,afterwardscalledEpitalion.About>/2hr.after leavingAgoulenitzawecrosstheAlpheiosbyaferryandin1hr.more reachPyrgos(p.324). OnthelastoutlierofMt.Kaiapha,about'/4hr.totheE.of theKlidiPass,lietheinterestingruinsthe of considerableancient townof*Samik6n.TheonlyfactofitshistoryknownisthatPhilipV. ofMacedonhereendedhissuccessfulcampaignofB.C.219,inwhich hemadehimselfmasterofallthetownsofTriphyliawithinsix days.SamikonisprobablyidenticalwiththeMinyantownofMa- kistos,whichgavethetitleofMakistiatothewholeofN.Triphylia. Itsfortificationswerearrangedinan almostequilateraltriangle, risingrapidlytowardstheS.E.Althoughthewallscannotbetraced alongthelowridgeofrockformingthebaseofthetriangle,itis hardlytobesupposedthatthetownextendedalsointotheplain. Thewell-preservedside-walls,whichmeethighupinsharp a angle, areperhapsthefinestextantspecimenoftheancientGreekpoly gonalbuildingstyle.Theyareaboutft. 7thickandareformed offive-sidedorsix-sidedpolygonalblocks,betweenwhichsquared blocksareinserted.Thefacesofthestonesaresmoothed,andthe jointsalmosteverywhereaccuratelycut,sothatnosmallstones wererequiredtofillupthecrevicesasatTiryns,Mycenffi,and elsewhere.Thelineofwalltracesthebrowofthehillveryexactly, andadaptsitselfso closelytoitssitethatatseveralpointsthe rocktakestheplaceofthewall.TheS.W.wall,facingthesea,is themostcarefullyconstructed,beingstrengthenedwithnumerous buttressesandafewtowers.Thespacewithinthewallsisthickly overgrownwithtreesandshrubs.Thereareseveralterrace-wallsin thelowerpartofit; andacrossthemiddleoftheslopestretchesa lowandroughridgerock. of FromZachdro(p.318)anotherroute,leadingthroughthecurrant- fieldsonthe E.bankofLakeKaiphaandthenfollowingasteepbridle path,bringsdirect usinabout2hrs.toSamikon,whichitreachesatthe highestpointoftheE.wall.Asteepspurintheneighbourhoodcommands a guodsurveyoftheruinsandan admirableviewofthesurroundings. TheRoad peomSamikontoOlympia(4'/2hrs.)soonreaches C/2hr.)theprettylittlevillageofTavla,thehousesofwhich liescatteredamongorange-groves.Night-quartersmaybeobtained 320 Route44. SKILLOUS. here withoutdifficultyfromthewell-to-dofarmers.Thewhole districtiswell-cultivated,andlargequantitiesofcurrantsaregrown here.WegraduallyascendtothehumblevillageofAliJelebi, whencewehaveunimpeded an viewoftheseaasfarasZakynthos. TotherightliesRiaova,andonaloftyhillaboveit isVrfna.We traverselargeplantationsof currantsandreachthelittleRivero Krestena,theancientSelinoHs.ThevillageofKrfstena(p.309)is 1 M.totheright.Thecharacterofthiswoodedhill-district,the natureofthesoil,andthedistancefrom Olympia,corresponding withthatassignedbytheancients(20stadia=1hr.),leaveno roomtodoubtthatsomewhereinthisneighbourhoodlaythetown otSkillo&s,memorablefromitsconnectionwithXenophonbutother wiseinsignificant.TheruinstotheW.ofKrestena,indicatedon theMapatp.325,orthosediscoveredmoretotheE.,nearthe villageofMazi,mayhavebelongedtothistown. Skillous wasdestroyedbytheEleiansintheirearlycontestswiththe Pisatse(p.325).AbouttheyearB.C.394theSpartansdetachedthe formercity-territoryfromElis,andpresentedpartofitingratitudefor hisservicestoXenophon(b.inB.C.445or430;d.about354),whohad beenbanishedfromAthens.TherehewasvisitedbyMegabyzos,the temple-keeperfromEphesus,whodeliveredtohimhisshareofthebooty takeninthefamousretreatoftheTenThousand(Anab.V,3,6)inB.C.401. XenophonpurchasedwiththisalargepieceoflandontheSelinus,and erectedatempletotheEphesianArtemis,onthemodelofthetempleat Ephesus.Hissonshuntedregularlyintheteemingwoodsofthedistrict andofferedtothegoddessa tenthoftheirspoil,asXenophonrelatesin the'Anabasis1.Atombusedtobepointedoutintheneighbourhood,be lievedbythesurroundinginhabitantstobethetombofXenophon. BetweenSkillousandOlympiaisthesteeprockofTypaeon, fromwhichitwasenactedbyanancientlawthatallwomenille gallypresentattheOlympiangames(p.327)shouldbethrown down.Thecasecontemplated,however,neveroccurred.Ourroute nextjoinstheroadfromKrestenatoOlympianowunderconstruc tionandreachestheferryacrosstheAlpheios(seep.310).Olym pia,seep.326. 45.FromFatrastoKalamatabySea. Greek CoastingSteamees(pp.xix,xx)plyfourtimesweeklyinabout 24hrs.,includingstoppages(fare23dr.401.,18dr.).Onthewaytheycall at(Mesolonghi),(Kylline),Zakynthos(Zante),Katdkolon,Kypar/ssia.Hagia Kyriaki,Marathoi,Pylos(Kov6niandNision). Patras, seep.28.ThesteamersteersN.W.acrosstheGulfof Patrasto(2hrs.)Mesolonghi(p.30),andthenproceedsalmostdue S.towardsCape KaWgria,theclassicAraxos,thelowhillofwhich, calledMavravouna,isdividedbyabroadplainfromthemountain- systemofthePeloponnesus.TheCyclopianwallsoftheruinedcastle onthetopwerecalledLamaorsimplyTeichos('thewall')inanti quity.InfrontliesKephallenia(p.16)andin thedistancetothe rightIthaka(p.22).WecoasttheflatshoreofElis(pp.323,324). In 6V2hrs.afterleavingPatraswetouchatOlarentza,orKyl- lene,as,owingtoanerroneousassumptionitisofficiallystyled. KYLLENE. 45.Rovte.321 This littletrading-town(tolerableXenodoehfon),with430inhab., IleaattheN.footof abluffpromontory,knowntotheancientsas Chelonatas,whichissurmountedbytheruinedcastleofChlemoutsi orTornese.Thecastle,withitsloftybattlementedwallsandstrong bastions,wasbuiltbyGeoffreyII.deVillehardouin,andduringthe periodoftheFrankishdominion,itwasthemostmagnificentbaro nialseatintheMorea.Destroyedin1825byIbrahimPasha,it isstillsometimesvisitedonaccountofitssplendidsituation. RailwayfromKavassilatoKyllene,seep.323. In2y4hrs.morewereachZanteorZdkynthos,seep.27. The steameragainapproachesthePeloponnesiancoast,where weseetothelefttheplainofOastouni(p.323),andin3 hrs. reachesKatakolon(poorXenodochion),with600inhab.,founded in1867astheseaportofPyrgos(railwaytoPyrgos,seep.324). NexttoPatrasandKalamata,Katakolonisthemostimportanthar bourfortheexportofcurrantsfromthePeloponnesus; ithasa newmole.Thebuildingbetweenthetwoconnectedhillsofthe promontoryisthe mediaevalcitadelof Pontikdkastro.Farthertothe W.isachapelofHagiosGeorgios. We nextsteertotheS.E.acrosstheGulfofKyparissia,along theshoreofwhichrunstheroadfromMesseniatoElis(comp. pp.360,319).Thedistrictwhichweseetotheleftistheancient Triphylia; thedistantmountainisLykaeon(p.309),thespursof whichdescendalmosttothesea.FarthertotheS.aretheKoutra Hills(p.360). ThetownofKyparissia(p.359)liesalittleinlandfromthe harbour,whichwereachin33/4hrs.,andispicturesquelysituated beneathamediaevalfortress.BehindrisesPsychro,theN.extrem ityoftheancientMgaleon(p.358),aconspicuousobjectfora considerabledistance.OntheW.wedescrytheStrophddes,onthe largestofwhichisaconvent. The nextstationsare(lt/4hr.)HagiaKyriake(p.358)and(3/4hr.) Mdrathos(p.368),twocurrant-exportingseaports.Thesteamer thenskirtsthewoodedislandPrrfie of(themediaevalProdano),on whichareachapelandsomewallsallegedtobeancient,perhaps thoseofthetownofProtementionedbyStrabo.Ononeofthe mountain-spurstotheleftliesOargaliani(p.358). nFarthero risesthesteeppromontoryofKoryphasionorOld Pylos(p.366),commandingtheN.entrancetotheBayofNava- rinoorPylos,whichisshelteredbytheislandofSphakterCa.Oppo sitetheS.channelissituatedthemoderntownofNavarino,now called Pylos,l'/jhr.beyondMarathos;seep.354. Weleaveuntouchedthesilted-upportofModon(1530inhab.), whichoccupiesthesiteoftheancientMethdneorMothoneandwas, alongwithKorone,longmaintainedinthe17thcent,bytheVene tiansagainsttheTurks,whohadmadethemselvesmastersofthe Peloponnesus.WenextpasstheuninhabitedislandsofCEnussae, Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 21 322 Route45. KORONE now calledSapienzaandCabreraorSchiza.Theseislandsandthe adjoiningcoastsvisited are bydangerousstormsinspringand autumn.OnthemainlandrisesthehillofHagiosDemetrios (1360ft.).LeavingtheislandofVenStikoorTheganousaonthe right,thesteamernowroundsKavoOallo(36°42'54"),thesouth ernmostcapeofMessene,ancientlycalledAkrftat,andentersthe BayofMessenia,themodernGulfofKoron. The townofKordne(2270inhab.; 4y4hrs.sailfromPylos)is situatedona fortress-likepromontory,undertheshadowofaVe netiancastle.Theolderfortificationsarestillpartlyextant.The ancientAiineonceoccupiedthesite,andwasfoundedanewbythe inhabitantsofKorone(seebelow).Thetownwastheobjectand sceneofmanybattlesinthemediaevalandmodemwarsinwhich Franks,Venetians,andTurkstookpart.Anearthquakein1886 wroughtmuchdamagehere.—Fartheron,totheleft,risesthe Lykodimo(p.364). Wenextskirtafertileplain,thechiefproductofwhichis figs. "WetouchatPetalidi(1020inhab.),whereacolonyofMainotes (p.263)haverecentlysettledundertheauspicesoftheGreek government.Thiswasthesiteof thetownofKorone,which was foundedEpimelides by inthetimeofEpaminondas.Thesteamer sometimestouchesattheharbourofNesionorNisi(p.347),before reaching(2hrs.fromKorone)Neae-Kalamae,theportKalamata of (seep.347). 46. FromFatrastoOlympia. 74M. Railwayin5>/ihrs.FarestoPvrgos12dr. 60,lOdr.401.,toOlympia 15dr. 10,12dT.651.,return-ticket,validfor8days,24dr.40,20dr.301. Through-connectiontoOlympiaonlybyonetraindaily.—FromPyrgos toOlympiain 1hr.; fares2dr.70,2dr.251.,return-ticket,validfor twodays,4dr.40,3 dr.601. Patras,seep.28.—TherailwayleadstotheS.W.through thebroadcoast-plain,runningnotfarfromthesea,whichisheTe calledtheQulfofPatras.Beyond(13/aM.)Itedwecrosstheriver Glaukos,nowcalledLevka,whichrisesontheloftymountain-group ofPanacha'ikon,themodernVotdiS(6330ft.).TheW.branchesof themountainsapproachclosetothesea.Thenfollowinrapidsuc cessionthestationsofMindilogli(4M.),Roitika,Monodendri, HagiosVasilios,Tzoukaleika,andKaminia.Beyond(11M.)Alyssos wecrosstheancientPeiros,nowcalledriverofKamnitza(p.30). .12Y2M Achaia,thestationforKato-Achata,alargevillage, which,withthe'upper'villageofthesamename(Epano-Achaia), 3M.totheS.,haspreservedthenameoftheancientN.Pelopon- nesiandistrict.TheGreekandRomaninscriptionsherearecom parativelynumerous.SomescantyruinstotheS.ofKato-Achai'a aresupposedtobethoseoftheearly-decayedOlenos,oneofthe12 federalcitiesofAchaia;moreprobably,however,theyindicatethe siteofthemoreimportantDyme.Higherupinthevalleyofthe I'eirosstoodPharae(comp.p.324). ELIS. 46.Route.323 The plainofKato-Achaiaisveryfertile.Anoak-woodstretches formanyleaguesalongbothsidesoftheLarisos(nowcalledMana orStimand),whichformedtheancientboundarybetweenAchaia andElis.Throughthebreaksinthetreeswecatchglimpseson therightofheM&vravouna(p.320).Beyond(I8Y2M.)Sageika and (22M.) Lappa,therailwaycrossestheLarisos,nearthesite oftheancientBouprdsion,andreaches(23Y2M.)thehamletof Ali-JeUM,thenameofwhichisderivedfromaformerTurkish proprietor.—Duringthejourneywehaveaviewtotheleftofthe MovriMts.(ca.2620ft.)behindwhicharetheSantameriMts. (3330ft.;p.325),theSkollionoftheancients.Thisisanoutlier oftheArcadiangroupcalledOlonos(7300ft.; p.30),theancient Erymanthos,whichrisesfarthertotheE.Alongtheshoretothe rightextendsabroadandsandystripofcoast,dottedwithfirs,and interruptedonlyforashortdistancenearKounoupeli.Onthisspot laytheancientHyrmineorHormina; Kyllene,whichalsostood tere,seemstohavedisappeared. 27'/2. M Manolada.anestatebelongingtothecrown-princeof Greece,liesamidoak-forestsbetweenthemarshylakesofAli- JeleMandofKotiki,bothwell-stockedwithfish, andconnected withtheseabycanals.—33M.Retoune;36M.Lechama,with 2450inhab.andabusybazaar.—33M.Andravida(1760inhab.), whereGuillaumedeChamplitte,thenewPrinceofMorea,estab lishedhismagnificentseatabout1205.TheruinedchurchofSt. Sophiadatesfromthesameperiod.TheTeutonicOrderandthe KnightsTemplaralsohadchurcheshere.—At(40M.)Kavassila thelinecrossesthePeneios(seebelow),alsocalledRiverofGastou- ni,insummerhardly2ft.deep,butinwinterofteninhighflood. Feom KavassilatoKyllene(p.321),10M.,branch-railwayins/4hr. (fares2dr.20,1dr.801.).Thelinerunsvia(31/4M.)Vartholomio,whence anotherbranchdivergesto(BVaM.J theLoutra('baths'),in1/2hr.(fares 1 dr. 40,1dr.201.) .311/*M Oastouni,alittletown,alsoofFrankishorigin('Gas- toigne'),has1830inhab.andisthechiefcattle-marketinthePelo ponnesus.TotherightappearstheruinofChlemoutzi(p.321). PalaeopolU(2l[2hrs.fromAmalias,p.324)liesontheleftbankof thePeneios,2hrs.the toN.E.ofGastouni,andisreachedbyaroadlead ingpastKalyvia,V2M*heyondwhicharebrickwalls,insomeplacesft. 16 high,andotherremainsoftheRomanperiod.Falceopolismarksthesite ofthecityofElis,whichlayatthefootofasteephill,400ft.high, surmountedacitadel byandatempleofAthena.ElisresembledSparta in beingwithoutwalls.Thefirstcityofimportanceherewaserected inB.C.471,bytheunionofnumerouscommunities; butthesitehad previouslybeenoccupiedbyatownthathadfallenintodecay.Protected bythesacredpeaceofOlympia(p.326)andbyastandingleaguewith Sparta,theinhabitantsdevotedthemselveschieflytoagriculture.Whatever maybecoveredbytheearth,therearenolongeranyvisibletracesof thetemples,colonnades,gymnasia,ortheatre.TheAcropolis,whichcom mandsafinepanorama,wasagainfortitledinthemiddleages,whenit borethenameofBelvedtrt.ThemodernnameisKalatkopi. The railwaynowrunsthroughneglectedpasture-lands,extend- 21* 324 Route46. PYRGOS. ingbeyond(44'/2M.)Karakouzitotheneighbourhoodof(48M.) Amalias,a littletown(4300inhah.)formedin1885the byunion ofthevillagesofKalitmandDervish-JeleM.■—Fartheronthe countryiscoveredwithcurrant-gardens.—50^2M.Kardama; bV/2M.Douneika;5372Hagios M. Eliot.—Theline,whichhas nowapproachedclosetothesea,affordingaviewofZantewith Mt.Skopos,enterstheravineofthe streamletV6vot.Ontheleft bankaretheconventandvillageofSkaphidid.—55M.Myrtid. ThetraincrossestheVovos; totheright,aviewofKatakolon andPontikokastro(p.321).—Beyond(57M.)Skourochoriweenter awell-cultivatedregion.—59M.Latteika. .61*/2M PyTgOS.—TheStationliesintheN.of thetown;a secondstation,forKatakolon(seebelow),intheW. Inns. HotelOltmpia,agood withandcleanrestaurant,bed IV2dr., bargainbeforehand;GeandHotelOltmpia,alsofair;HotelGkande Bsetagne.—ThereareseveralCafe'sinthemainstreet. Carriageto Olympiaabout25dr.(horseormule5 dr.);bargain beforehand. British Vice-Consul,Mr.CharlesFauquier. Physician.Dr.Polysogtipoulos,understandsGerman. Pyrgos, atownof12,650inhab.,consistingmainlyofonelong street,crowdedwithwarehouses,isthecapitaloftheeparchyof ElefaandthelargesttownbutoneinthePeloponnesus.Thebusy littletown,situatedon aneminence,amongcornfields,vineyards, andplantationsofcurrants,haslatelybeenrepeatedlyinjuredby earthquakes.Withitsharbour,Kat&kolon(p.321),7l/2M.distant, itisconnectedbyarailway(V2hr.;1dr.55,1dr.301.). FromPyrgostoAgoulenitza(31/2M.)andKlidiyseep. 319. Fkom PyrgostoOlympiaisarailway-journeyofl-l'/jhr.— 3'/2M.Varvdssaena; 6M.Kodkoura.—Thelinethencrossesthe Lestenitza,theclassicEnipeus,andgraduallydescendstotheplain oftheAlpheios.—8M.Strephi;10M.Kriekouki(1100inhab.); 16t/2M.Platanos.—12'/2M.Olympia. TheBbidlePathfromPateastoOlympiavia.Santameritakestwo roaddaysandtoKato-Achai'aisfatiguingand(p.passable322),aboutonly7i/2insummer.M.(2'/2hrs.)WefollowfromthePatras, carriage-and thenstrikeofftotheleftacrossthehillsbetweenthePeirosorRiverof Kamniizaandthesea,passingnearseveralvillages.Wethencrossthe Peirosandfartheronseveralofitstributaries.[TheplainofthePeiros belongedtothetownofPharae,scanty theruinsofwhichlienearthe khanofPrevetd,about6M.asidefromthepath.]WeridepastAria, wherethereisamediaevalfortresscommandingthepass,andtheConvent ofMarilza,andin6V2hrs.afterleavingPatrasreachthevillageof Santameri,wherethenightmaybespentifnecessary.Thecastleofthis namewasfoundedin1311byNicolasIII.deSt.Omar.Theancienttown ofThalamae,therefugeof theEleiansintimesofdanger,probablystoodin thisneighbourhood. SantameriliesontheN.W.declivityofmountain a groupofthesame name(p.323).OurrouteleadsthroughthenarrowvalleyattheW.base ofthemountainandalongthebankofthe stream.WepassnearPortaes, andinhrs. 2 reachthePeneios,whichhereemergesfromanarrowrocky channelintotheopenplain.Wecrosstheriverandin1/4hr.reachthe villageofAgraptdochori,situatedonawoodedhill,nearwhichtheEleian

i

OLYMPIA. 47.Route.325 LadonflowsintothePeneios,Itsdeltacontainsfaint thetracesofan ancienttown,probablytheEleianPylos. WeascendalongtheLadonto(IV2hr.)thehamletofKoulougliypartly builtofancientstones,broughtfroma'pal^kastro',3/*M.totheE., whichwasalsoafortressinthemiddleages.About1hr.fartheronthe LadonbendstowardstheE.,but ourrouteliesstraighton.Beyond (Vzhr.)MousdkiweturntotheS.W.cross andthehills,whichgradually sinkontheS.intotheplainof theAlpheios.Wepass thevillagesof KaratoUla,Lndsdi,Broiima,Pourndri,KriekotikiyandPldtanos,andreach theexcavationsatOlympiain3hrs. 47. Olympia. AVisitto Olympia,whichisnotrecommendedintheoppressiveheat ofGreek a summer,ismostconvenientlymadebymeansoftherailway fromPatras(R.46).AnalternativerouteisofferedbytheGreekCoast ingSteamers(p.xix),whichplyalmostdailyfromZante(p.27)toKata- kolon(p.321).—Astaynot oflessthan1-2daysisnecessarytoobtain a satisfactoryandenduringimpressionofOlympia,although,ofcourse, itispossibletohurrythroughtheexcavationsandthemuseumina fewhours. The bestpreparationforavisittoOlympiaisastudyof A.Boetticher't 'Olympia1(2nded.,Berlin,1886). Hotels. XenodochionAech^baOlympia(formerlyPUri)iR.&board 7-8dr.perday,lessfora longstay,tolerablethoughnotperfectinpoint ofcleanliness\ Grand Hoteld'Olympie(MegaXenodochion)^ratherdearer (closedinthespringof1893).AlargenewHdtelisbeingbuiltbythe RailwayCo.neartheMuseum.—Accommodationwhenthehotelsarefull maybe obtainedofChristdsLiakopoulusinDrotiva.—Thelandlordsofthe firsttwohotelsprovidehorsesormulesforatourinthePeloponnesus (ca.8dr.perday). Theruins areunderthecareofMr.Voulismas,wholivesattheMu seum.—TheMwettmisclosedbetween12and1. Olympia (140ft.abovethesea-level),situatedontherighthank oftheAlpheios,atthepointwhereit isjoinedbytheKl&deos,flow ingtoitfromtheN.,liesinthedistrictofPisatis,whichbelonged toElisfromB.C.580onwards.Itwasneverproperlyspeakinga town,butmerelyasacredprecinct,withtemples,publicbuildings, andafewdwelling-houses.Itoweditshighimportancethroughout theentireHellenicworldtotheuniversalreverenceforitsshrines, andabovealltoitsfamousgamesinhonourofZeus,which,during aperiodofmorethanathousandyears,wereperiodicallycelebrat edbytheGreeksofallstatesandofallfamilies. The originofthegamesrecedesintothemythicalages.The GreeksreverencedHerculesastheirfounder,—nottheherousually knownbythatname,buttheIdaeanHercules,whowassaidtohave beenpresentatthebirthofZeushimself.ThelaterHercules,how ever,alsotookpartinsomefamouscontestshere,afterthedefeat ofKingAugeasofElis.(Enomaos,KingofPisa,theoldcapitalof thedistrict(p.305),compelledthesuitorsofhisdaughterHippo- darneiatocompetewithhiminchariot-racing,andignominiously puttodeathallwhomhevanquished,untilatlengthPelopssuc ceededinheatinghimandsowonthehandofHippodameia.Pelops wasthustheprototypeofthevictorsatOlympia,andassuchwas heldinhighhonourthere. 326 Route47. OLYMPIA. History. TheactualfoundingofthegamesproperisascribedtoIphitos ofElis,who,alongwithLykourgosofSparta,reorganizedthegames atthebiddingoftheoracleofDelphiinthe9thcent.B.C.,and introducedthe'Ekecheiria'(lit.'hand-staying','truce')or'Peace ofGod'amongallthestatesofGreeceduringthecelebrationthe of games.Pausaniassawthedecree,inscribedonadiscusofbronze, preservedintheHeraeon(p.333).BythismeanstheOlympian Gamesdivestedthemselvesoftheir localcharacterandrosetothe dignityof anationalfestival,whichwasthevisibleexpressionof Hellenicunity,inspiteofalltheinternecinecontentionsandwars amongtheindividualstatesofGreece.Theregularchronicleof OlympianvictorsbeginsinB.C.776,buttheuseofOlympiadsas chronologicalepochsdidnotoriginatetillmuchlater. Theames g tookplaceatthefirstfullmoonafterthesummer solstice.Atthebeginningofthe sacredmonth,theEleians,whohad beenleftinundisturbedpossessionofthesanctuarysinceabout B.C.580, sentheraldstoproclaimthe universalpeacethroughout allGreece.Thecompetitorsandspectatorsofthefestivalstreamed infromfarandnear,thelargerstatesrepresentedbyembassies ('Theorise'),whichwere sometimesofgreatmagnificence.Thefunc tionlastedfor fivedays.Thecentralpointwasaseriesofgreatsac rificestoZeusandothergods,underthesolemnmanagementof priests,someofwhomdweltcontinuouslyatOlympia.Thesacri ficeswereaccompaniedbyathleticcontestsofthemostvariedde scription,foot-races,hurlingthediscus,wrestling,boxing,chariot- races,etc.,oarriedon underthedirectionoftheHellanodikae ('JudgesoftheHellenes'),whowereatthesametimethehighest politicalbodyinElis. The originalandmostimportanteventinthegameswastheFoot RaceintheStadion,atfirstonelengthofthecourse,butafterwardstwo ormore.In the18thOlympiad(B.C.708)thePentathlonorFivefold Contestwasintroduced,a combinationofleaping, hurlingdiscus, the running,wrestling,andboxing,soarrangedthatonlythevictorsinthe firstcontestscouldcompeteinthelater,andthatthefinalcontestshouldbe aboxing-matchbetweenthetwobestcompetitors.Inthe25thOlym piad(B.C.680)washeldthefirstChahiotRacewithfourhorses.Inthe 33rdOlympiad(B.C.648)thefirstHoeseRacetookplace,andthePan- khation,acombinationofwrestlingandboxing,wasintroduced.Subse quentlyspecialcompetitionsforboysinmostofthesesportswerearranged, andinthe65thOlympiad(B.C.520)theHoplitodromos,or'soldiersrace inheavymarchingorder1,wasadded. Thecompetitionswererestrictedtofree-bornGreeksofunstainedchar acterthough'barbarians1mighthespectators.Women,withtheexception oftheEleianpriestessofDemeter,werenotpermittedtoviewthesports (p.320).BeforethecontestthecompetitorshadtoappearintheBouleu- terion,presence in ofZeus Horkios(p.338),andtakeanoaththatthey hadundergonetheprescribedtenmonths'courseoftrainingandwould obeytheOlympianlawsandtheregulationsoftheGames.Theythen enteredtheStadionbya specialentrancewiththe Hellanodikse, the heraldsannouncingthenameandcountryofeachathleteasheappeared. Thepalmwashandedtothevictorimmediatelyafterthecontest.The prizesproper,simplebranchesfromthesacredolive-treeplantedbyHer culeshimself,weredistributedattheendoftheGamestoallthevictors

History. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.327 at thesametime.TheGreeksattachedthemostextraordinaryvalueto theOlympicolive-branch.Pindarhascelebrateditinspiritedsong.Its acquisitionwasnotonlyalifelongdistinctionforthewinners,butre flectedalsothehighesthonourontheirfamiliesandontheirstates,and theircountrymenusedtotestifytheirgratitudebytriumphalreceptions, banquetsatthepublic expense,audoftenbyexemptionfromtaxes. InOlympiaitselfthechampionsdweltatthepublicexpenseinthe Prytaneion(p.335)andhadtherightoferectingastatueintheAltis, which,inthecasea oftriplevictory,wasallowedtobearthefeatures ofthevictor.Besidesthesestatues,thefirstofwhichwereerectedin woodaboutthe60thOlympiad(540),numerousvotiveofferingswere presentedbystatesandindividuals,sothatinthecourseofcenturies there arosethatforestofstatues,thedescriptionofwhich,evenafterit hadbeenseveraltimesplunderedbytheRomans,fillsnearlyanentire bookinPausanias(p.cx). Inadditiontotheathletes,menillustriousintheintellectualsphere alsosometimesappearedwiththeirperformances.Herodotusissaidto havereadinpublicatOlympiaa portionofhishistoricalwork,andso tohavefiredtheyouthfulThucydides,whowaspresent,tothecompo sitionofhishistory.Celebratedorators,likeOorgiasandLysias% ad dressedthepeoplefromtheopisthodomosofthetempleofZeus,asdidthe sophistHippiasofElisandothers.Paintersexhibitedtheirworkshere.It washerealsothatThemitiokletenjoyedhisgreatesttriumph,whenat hisappearanceinthestadion,probablyinthe77thOlympiad(472),the assembledGreeksgreetedtheheroofSalamiswithshoutsofapplause. AtalaterdatePlatowasalsoreceivedherewithhonourbytheadmir ingmultitude. The Heraeon(p.333)isthemostancientofthehuildings hithertoexhumed.Itserection,accordingtoPausanias,datesfrom prehistorictimes;andindeedthecellaandstylohateofthepresent buildinghaveclearlycomedownfromaveryearlywoodentemple. It issaidtohavebeenforalongtimetheonlytempleinOlympia, andtohaveservedasthecommonshrineofZeusandHera.—The Heroon(p.340),theN.partthe ofBouleuterion(p.338),thePe- lopion(p.333),andmostoftheTreasuries(p.335)datealsofrom theperiodbeforethePersianWars.Thefirstboundaryofthe Altisorsacredprecinctissaidtohaveconsistedatthatearliest periodofawallofhewn'Poros'stone,ofwhichonlyafewfrag mentsnowremain(pp.335,338,339). The OlympicGamesattainedtheirzenithintheperiodafterthe PersianWars,andduringthestrugglesof theSicilianGreeksagainst theCarthaginians.Competitorsstreamedinnotonlyfromthestates ofGreeceproper,butalsofromtheislands,fromthecoloniesof MagnaGrseciaandSicily,fromAsiaMinor,andfromCyrene.Dur ingthisperiodtheTempleofZeus(p.330)wasbuilt,andprob ablyalsotheS.partoftheBouleuterion(p.338)andtheSyra- cusanandSikyonicTreasuries(p.336).TheMetroon(p.335),the Leonidaeon(p.339),andtheSouth-EastBuilding(p.338)arenot soancient. As HellenicinfluenceextendedtotheE.,thecontingentsfrom theAsiaticstatesandfromEgypt,aswellasthosefromMace doniaandThrace,grewlargerandlarger; andanenergeticbuild ing-periodset in,amongtheresultsofwhich werethePalaestra 328 Route47. OLYMPIA. History. (p. 340),thelargeGymnasium(p.340),thePhilippeion(p.334), theEchoColonnade(p.337),andthevaultedentrancetothe Stadion. Finally,intheRomanperiod,wefindchampionshailingfrom allpartsoftheempire,whileGreeceproperbecamelessandless conspicuous.Inoutwardsplendour,however,Olympiainnoway declined.TiberiusandNerothemselveswonvictorieshere,while theotheremperorsrecognizedatleasttheprerogativesofthevictors. Buildingandadornmentwentonuntilthelatestperiod.Nero's Mansion(p.337),thelargeSouthPortico,thelatesthewn-stone buildingatOlympia(p.338),theExedraofHerodesAtticus (p.335),theTheokoleon(p.340),thetwoThermae(p.341),the reconstructionofthelargeLeonidaeon(p.339),andseveralruined brickbuildingsintheneighbourhood,alldatefromtheRoman times.ThesecondAltisWall,whichsupersededtheoriginalbound arythe ofsacredprecinctandwhichisstillperfectontheW.and S.,wasprobablyalsobuiltat thistime.Buttheconditionsofthe gamesnolongerremainedintheiroriginalintegrity.Professional athletesappeared,and,travellingfromonetoanotherofthenu merousathleticmeetings,succeededindegradingeventheOlympic victorytoa trade.TheregularcelebrationtheOlympic of games seemstohavediedoutinthe4thcent.A.D.TheEmperorValens revivedthemin369,butTheodosiusfinallysuppressedthemin394. The earliestChristianchurchwasaccommodatedina partofthe Theokoleon(p.340),whiletheotherbuildingswereconvertedinto dwelling-houses.Inordertoprotectthemselvesagainstthebar barianinvaderswhoharassedGreecefromtheendofthe4thcent, onwards(comp.p.231),theinhabitantsofOlympiaerectedsub a stantialfortificationbetweenthetempleofZeusandtheS.Portico, withwalls10ft.thick,formedofmaterialsfromtheMetroon,some ofthetreasuries,theEchoColonnade,theBouleuterion,andthe Leonidaeon.Thesewalls(markedwithdottedlinesontheplan) existeduntiltheextensiveexcavationsoftheGermangovernment. ThetempleofZeusandsomeoftheotherbuildingsthenstand ingwerethrowndownbytwoearthquakesinthefirsthalfofthe 6thcentury.Atthesametimealandslipprobablytookplaceon Mt.Kronion,whichburiedtheExedraseveral andofthetreasuries, andsopreservednumerousRomanstatuesinthefirst-namedbuild ing.Itwasprobablyalsoaboutthesameperiodthatthefirstin undationoftheKladeostookplace,whichdepositeda layersand, of 3ft.thick,onallthestructureslyingtotheW.ofOlympia,between thelargeGymnasiumandtheLeonidaeon(comp.p.340). After thesecatastrophesaChristianpopulationagainsettledat Olympiathe uponpartly-buriededificesbetweenthetempleof ZeusandtheStadion,includingnumerousfragmentsofthepedi ment-sculpturesormetopesofthetempleofZeusintheirwretched tutswhichwerestucktogetherwithslime.Thelevelofthisvil Excavations. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.329 lageabovetheoriginallevelofOlympiaisshownbythelargeclay vesselswhichwere foundletintothefloorsofthehuts,butwhich arenowrestoredtotheiroriginallevelabovetheEchoColonnade. TothesameperiodalsobelongtheChristiantombsofstone-slabs andbricks,whichhavebeendiscoveredinallpartsofOlympia, andwhichhavenotyetallbeenopened.Theylayabout3ft. belowthefloorsofthehouses,andwereespeciallynumerousin theByzantinechurch. The eventwhichresultedthe incompleteburialofOlympia musthavehappenedaboutacenturylater,tojudgefromthecoins foundthere.TheKladeosagainleftitschannelandinthecourse ofyearscoveredallOlympiawithalayerofsand from10to15ft. deep,abovewhichonlythetreasuriesemerged.Thedepositsof coarsegravelinvariouspartsoftheperpendicularearthenbanks, e.g.inthelargeGymnasium,totheW.oftheByzantinechurch, andneartheOctagon,enabletotrace us thevariationsoftheriver- channel.Thetreasurieswerenextcoveredbyclaywasheddown bytherainfromMt.Kronion.Andfinallythe Alpheios,flooding theruinsfromtheS.E.,washedawaytheentireHippodromeand partoftheS.embankmentoftheStadion,buttheOctagon,aRoman brickbuildingtotheS.E. ofAltis, thedivertedthedestructive currenttotheS.W. The firstideaan ofexcavationatOlympiasuggesteditselfto Winckelmann,whoexpectedarichharvestfromtheabundanceof Greeksculpturesknowntohavebeenplacedhere.TheFrenchEx peditiondeMoreeof1829paidapassingattentiontotheideaand institutedexcavationsatthetempleofZeus,whichyieldedafew metope-reliefs,nowintheLouvre.Thecompleteexhumationof theentiresiteofthiscentreancient of Greeklifewasreservedfor theGermanempire.ErnstCurtiussucceededinobtainingthecon currenceoftheEmperorandtheCrownPrinceofGermany; theIm perialDietvotedsupplies; andin1874atreatywasmadewith GreecewhichsecuredtoGermanythedirectionoftheexcavations andtherighttothefirstscientificuseoftheirresults,whilethe objectsdiscoveredweretoremaininGreece.Insixwinterseasons andatan expenseofabout40,0002.almosttheentiredistrictof Olympiawasfreedfromthesuperincumbentsoil,whichinsome placeswas20ft.deep.TheworkwasmainlydirectedfromBerlin, byErnstCurtius,Adler,thearchitect,andamemberoftheFor eignOffice;whiletheconductoftheworkatOlympiawasen trustedtoavaryingcommissionofarchaeologistsandarchitects. Theyieldofsculpturesfellshortoftheexpectations,thoughthe HermesofPraxiteles(p.344)isaworkofthehighestclass,in itselfworthajourneytoOlympia; buta floodoflightwasthrown upontopographicalandarchitecturalmattersofthehighestscientific importance.TheinterestexcitedbyOlympiamaybecomparedwith theimpressionproducedbyPompeii; theruinsofthelatterare 330 Route47. OLYMPIA. KronosHill. moreextensiveandinbetterpreservation,butingeneralinterest OlympiafarexcelstheRomanprovincialtown. ThebestsurveyofOlympiaisobtainedfromtheslopeof the *KronosHillorKrdnion,thepartiallywoodedhill,403ft.high, risingtotheN.ofthe excavations.Apathabovethelasttreasure- housesleadstothetop(notrecommendedtoladiesonaccountof thethorns).WiththehelpofthePlan,wecandistinctlymake outtheAltis(iEolicforaXaos,agrove),orsacredwalledprecinct, about|760ft.longandabout570ft.broad,stretchingalongthe footofthehill.TheAltiswasboundedonthe E.bytheEcho Colonnade(p.337)andtheso-called8.E.Building(p.338); on theW.theboundary-wallextendedfromthePrytaneion(p.335) totheS.W.corner,andwasinterruptedbyonelargeandtwosmaller gates.OntheS.theboundarybeganwithawall,wascontinued totheE.bytheBouleuterion(p.338),theN.partofwhichabutted directlyontheAltis,andfinallyendedwithanotherwallonthe 'S.E.,whichincludedthesubstructureoftheRomantriumphalgate way.Withinthisprecinctstoodallthesacredbuildings—theTemples ofZeus,Hera,andtheMotheroftheGods(Metroon),theHeroaof PelopsandHippodameia,theTreasuries,thePrytaneion,someof theporticoes,altarstoseveralgods,andtheinnumerablevotiveoffer ingsandstatuesofvictors.ThespacetotheW.,betweenthe sacred enclosureandtheKladeos,theancientE.protecting-wallofwhich hasbeendisclosedinseveralplaces,containedthelargeGymnasium withthePalaestra(p.340),totheS.ofwhichlay theTheokoleon (p.340).StillfarthertotheS.,oppositetheW.entrancetotheAltis, laythelargestbuildinginOlympia,itheLeonidaeon(p.339).The onlybuildingsfoundbetweentheAltisandtheAlpheiosarethe BouleuterionandtheSouthPortico,besidelatter theofwhich,to theS.,passedthegreatfestalwayleadingfromOlympiatoElis. ARomanRuin,visibleamongthecurrant-fieldsstillfartherto theS.,mayhavebeenalodging-houseforrich guests,whileforthe othernumerousvisitorsatthefestivaltheaccommodationwasprob ablynobetterthanthatprovidedforthevisitorstoamodernGreek panegyris.TotheE.ofthesacredenclosurelaytheStadion(p.337), theHippodrome(p.337),andafewRomanstructures. ThecentreoftheAltis,andtheinitialpointoftheexcavations aswellasofourtourroundtheruins,istheTempleofZeus,said tohavebeenbuiltbytheEleiansinthe5thcent.B.C.withthe plunderofthecityofPisa(p.305),destroyedmorethan100years before.ThenativeEleianartistLibonismentionedasthearchitect. ThetemplewasaDoricperipteros,withsixcolumnsateitherend andthirteenonthesides,builtonanartificialmound.Thestylo- bate,200Olympicfeet(2101/4Engl,ft.)longand861/4(903/4 Engl,ft.)broad,isconstructed,likealltheolderOlympianedifices, ofmassivehewnblocksofa shell-conglomerate('Poros')quarried intheneighbourhood.Thecolumns,ofthesamecoarseshell Templef o Zeus. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.331 limestone,coatedwithfinewhitestucco,were32!/2Olympicfeet (34V5ft.)high,withabase-diameterof7Olympicfeet(7i/3ft.); theyhad10flutings.Thecolumnardistance,fromaxistoaxis, was16'/4Olympicfeetorone-halfoftheheight.Afewwell-pre servedcapitals,withbeautifullydesignedechinusmouldings,lieon theS.sideofthebuilding,adjoiningsomeoftheprostratecolumns, ? whichareextendedat fulllengthastheywerethrowndownbythe earthquakes.Fragmentsoftheentablatureliescatteredaround; themassivecornerpieceattheN.W.corner,originally18*/5ft.long and53/4ft.high,givesanideaoftheimposingsizeofthetemple. fTraceso pedestalsforbronzestatuesmaybeseenonthestylobate betweenthecolumnsontheS.side.Thefloorofthecolonnadeisof simpleriver gravel,coveredontheE.(i.e.theancientapproach) byabeautifulcolouredmarblepavementofRomanworkmanship. ThePronaos,-withinthecolonnade,hastwocolumnsbetweenante (thesocketsfortheboltsofthemetaldoorsarestillvisible); itsfloor retainstheremainsof aGreekMosaicinroughroundstonesfrom theriver,representingTritons,withinatastefulborderofpalm- ettesandmeanderinglines(nowcovered).TheCella(outsidemeas urement)is100Olympicfeetlongby50broad.Itwasdividedbytwo rowsofDoriccolumns,partsoftheshaftsofwhicharestillinposition, intothreeaisles,ofwhichthecentreonewasconsiderablythe widest.ThiscentralnavewasdividedfromE.to\V.intothree sections.Thecentralsectionwaspavedwithblacklimestoneslabs, witharaisedborderofwhitePentelicmarble,stillpreserved,and wasenclosedontheS.,E.,andN.bystonescreens(stilltobetraced betweenthecolumns),adornedwithpaintingsfromthehandof Panaenos.Thethirdsectionwasentirelyoccupiedbythechrys elephantineStatueofZeus,about40ft.inheight,carvedbyPhidias (eomp.p.lxxxiii).Fragmentsofitsblacklimestonepedestal,which wasabout20Olympicfeetwideby30deep,liescatteredabout; someof thoseintheS.E.anglehavebeenfittedtogetheragain.The statueitselfissaidtohavebeenremovedtoConstantinopleduring theByzantineperiod,andtohaveperishedtherein aconflagration. Theimagewasusuallycoveredbya curtain,onlywithdrawnon solemnfestaloccasions.ThecurtainthatPausaniassaw wasthe giftofAntiochosIV.EpiphanesofSyria(175-164B.C.),andwas madeofpurplewooladornedwithAssyrian embroidery.Thespec tatorsstoodthe ineasternmostdivisionofthenave,orcouldwalk roundthestatuebytheside-aisles,whichwereconnectedbyanarrow passageattheW.end.Thereweregalleriesabovetheside-aisles, reachedbyspiralstaircases,sothattheupperpartofthestatue couldalsobeinspected.Ahydria(water-vessel)oramarbleframe nearthewonderfulimagemarkedthespotstruckbythethunder bolt,bywhichZeusissaidtohaveannouncedtoPhidiashissatis factionwiththework. Thewholeceilingofthetemplewasofwood(notstone); the 332 Route47. OLYMPIA.TempleofZeus. roof consistedofmarble-tiles,manyofwhicharenowdepositedon thePelopion.Thecornicewasornamentedwithlions'heads,which servedaswater-spoutsorgargoyles.—Thesculpturalornamentation ofthepedimentsandmetopesisdescribedatpp.342-344. In frontoftheE.facade,wheretheentrancewasformedbya slopingterrace,standanumberofinterestingbasesofstatues, whichwerediscoveredherebuiltintotheByzantineE.wall,in theorderinwhichPausaniasmentionsthem.Notfarfromthe S.E.approachtotheterraceisasemicircularsubstructure,which borethestatuesofnineGreekheroesattheTrojanWar,drawing lotsfortheduelwithHector.ThestatueofNestorshakingthe lotsinahelmetstoodontheroundbaseontheoppositesideof theway.ThisfamousworkwasbyOnatas.—Thelargemarble baseclosebydoubtlesssupportedaquadriga,andprobablysodid thesandstonebeside basepath, thefarthertotheS.Perhapsthese werevotiveofferingsfromGelonandHieron,rulersSyracuse, of whowonvictoriesatOlympia. OppositetheS.E.angleofthetemplealargemarblebasehas beenrebuiltoffiveblocks,withancientinscriptions.Twodistichs inthemiddlecelebratethefounder,Praxiteles,citizenofSyracuse andKamarina,thoughanativeofMantinea('letthisbeatokenof hisworth'); ontherightandleftarethenamesoftheartists.— Behindrisestheloftycircularpedestalof astatueofZeus,dedi catedbytheLacedemoniansduringthesecondMessenianWar; the epigramquotedbyPausaniasisontheupperedge. FarthertotheE.,andnearthepathfollowingthelineofthe Byzantinewall,standstheloftytriangularBaseoftheNikeofPaeo- nios(p.344),whichconsistedofeightblocks.Thetwostones whichhavebeensetupagainbearaninscriptionoftheRoman period,containingthedecisionintheboundarydispute(mentioned atp.283)betweenMesseniaandLacedsemonia.Theoriginalvo tiveinscription(comp.p.31)isnowinthemuseum. FarthertotheN.istheBaseoftheEretrianBull(p.344),by Philesios.ClosebyisthatofthestatueoftheRhodianEuklesby Naukydesandbeyond,thatoftheAthenianpankration-champion Kallias,withthenameofMikon,thesculptor.Thebaseofthe statueoftheLocrianEuthymos,withanepigramandthenameof thesculptorPythagoras,isattheN.E.angleoftheByzantinewall, thefoundationsofwhichatthispartwereformedofdrumsofcol umnsfromtheMetroon,alargenumberofwhichliescatteredabout. Theremainsoffoundation a dugupnotfaroffmayperhapsbe thoseoftheHouseof (Enomaos,whichPausaniassaysstoodtothe leftofthepassagefromthealtarofZeustothetempleofZeus. TheAltarofZeus,or,moreaccurately,itsscantyremains,was exhumedrathermoretotheN.,butithasalreadybecomepartly buriedagainonaccountofitssunkenposition.Likenearlyallthe olderbuildingsatOlympiaithasafoundationofundressedstones. Ileraeon. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.333 The ground-planisanellipse,agreeingwiththemeasurements givenbyPausanias.Asa chief centreGreekpaganism of itdoubt lessearlyfellavictimtoChristianzeal.Remainsofotheraltars werediscoveredroundthemainshrine,onthespotsrecognizableby theblackenedearth,mixedwithashesandtheremainsofbones. The lowhillockwhichrisesfrom3to6ft.abovethesurround inggroundtotheW.,wherefragmentsofaretaining-wallmaystill beseen,wasthePelopion,orsacredenclosureofPelops.Itwas builtintheformofanirregularpentagon,withacuriousportalon theS.W.Onlythefoundationofthelatternowremains,forthe columnsandentablaturewereutilizedfortheByzantineE.wall. Thestoneapproachtothestylobateoftheporticomaystillbemade out.—BesidethePelopionrunsoneofthenumerousconduitsof Olympia,someofwhichservedtobringfreshdrinking-water,and otherstocarryoffthe rain-water.Thechiefoftheseverynumerous andverydiverseaqueductsaremarkedontheplan withlines. blue InthedirectionoftheHerseon,totheN.ofthePelopion,stands alargeruinedAltar,nearwhichmorethanathousandsmallbronze andterracottafiguresofanimalsoftheroughestworkmanshiphave beenfound.ThisaltarisprobablythemostancientinOlympia, fortheblackenedearthcontainingthesevotivegiftshasbeenfound evenunderthefoundationsoftheHerseon.Perhapswemayidentify inittheancientcommonshrineofHeraundZeus. TheHerseon,atthefootofaspuroftheKronionwhich onrise twopine-trees, isnotonlytheoldesttempleinOlympia, but alsothemostancientknowntempleinGreece.ADoricperipteros with6columnsateachend and16 oneachside,itdeviatesin otheressentialpointsfromtheusualnorm.Thestereobatehas buttwosteps.ThechiefentrancesareontheS.side,intheex tremeintercolumniationsontherightandleft.The40peripteral columns,ofwhichonlysixareentirelywanting,presentthemost markeddifferences: thediametersvaryfrom3^4toV/^ft.; one columnattheS.W.anglehasonly16flutings,whilealltherest have20; the19capitalsthathavebeenfoundarealldifferent (compare,e.g.,thetwointheE.portico,bothfromtheE.facade); whileinmaterialandconstructionthecolumnsalsovary.Thetrue explanationof thesevariationsismostprobablythattheoriginal columnswereofwood,andwerereplacedwithstonecolumns,as thecourseoftimerendereditnecessary.Pausaniasstatesthathe sawonewoodencolumnintheOpisthodomos.Theunusuallygreat columnardistance(as11to4),andthefactthatnotraceofarchi trave,triglyph,etc.,hasbeenfound,permittheconclusionthatthe entablaturemusthavebeenofwood.TheHeraeonmaythusbe regardedas afreshproofofthedevelopmentoftheDoricstylefrom timber-construction. Onlythelowerportionofthecella-wallswasof stone; someother material,probablysun-driedbricks,wasusedabovetheslabsnow 334 Route47. OLYMPIA. Philippeion. extant.Bricksofthiskind,madeofcommonclayandunfiled,a buildingmaterialwhichthemodernsdespise,were usedinGreece formanytemples,palaces,andtown-walls,andprobablyformost oftheordinaryhouses.Theunburntbrickwallofthecellain thiscase lasteduntilthedestructionoftheroof,andwasthen disintegratedbytherain.Thebasesof afewRomanstatues,with inscriptions,standinthePronaos,whichisbuiltasatemplein aniis.[TheexactjointingofthemasonryintheN.W.angleof thepronaosshouldbenoticed.]WeentertheCellabyawidedoor way,thesillandpostsofwhichwereofwoodcoveredwithbronze. Theinteriorthecella, of whichwasfoundcoveredwithadeposit ofclay3ft.thick,obviouslythedebrisof thebrick-wallabove mentioned,issomewhatlonginproportiontoitsbreadthandwas dividedbytworowsofcolumns(ofwhichthestylobatesstillre main),datingfromalaterperiodthanthosewithout.Originally therewereshortpartitioncross-walls(markedontheplan),like thosewhichstillexistinthetempleofBassse(p.311);theirfoun dationsandtheplaceswherethey abuttedonthemainwallsmay stillberecognized.Pausaniassawanumberofstatuesbetweenthe columns;andthebaseofoneofthese(HermesiviththeyoungDio- nysos,byPraxiteles)stillstandswherehebeheldit.Thestatue itself,themostvaluableofallthediscoveriesatOlympia,was foundlyingimmediatelyinfrontofthebase,embeddedinthe above-mentioned'depositofclay.ThebaseattheW.endofthe cellaprobablysupportedtheImagesHera ofandZeus,asitcon sistsof thesamematerialasthecolossalheadofHera (nowinthe Museum,p.346)whichbelongedtothegroup.—Severalhollows maybeobservedontheexteriorcolumns,especiallyonthoseonthe S.side;thesewereprobablyusedforthereceptionofvotiveoran nouncementtablets. The Philippeion,aroundstructurefarthertotheW.,builtby PhilipII.ofMacedoniaafterthebattleCharonea of (p.161),is ofspecialimportanceowingtotheaccuracywithwhichitsdate (about336B.C.)be canfixed.Threemarblesteps(partlyrestored ontheS.)leduptoacircleof18Ioniccolumns,onwhichrested anentablatureof shell-limestone,withamarblecornice.Thein teriorwasadornedwithCorinthiancolumns,andcontainedgoldand ivorystatuesofAmyntas,PhilipII.,and AlexandertheGreat,and ofEurydiceandOlympias(consortsofthetwofirst,grandmother andmotherof thelast),allbyLeochares.Severalfragmentsofthe semicircularmarblebasesofthesestatues,distinguishedforthe purityoftheirornamentation,havebeenfound,andputtogether in theinteriorofthebuilding.Inantiquitytheystood higher. We nextglanceatthePrytaneion,ofwhich,thoughmorethan oncerestored,thepresentremainsareexceedinglyscanty.The earliestground-plan,whichisstillthemostdistinct,isindicated ontheplanatp.326.Achapelwithaltar anofHestiastoodinthe Afetroon. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.335 fmiddleo thecourt,roundwhichwerearrangedseveralsmallapart mentsandalsolarge a festalhall,wheretheOlympianvictorswere entertained.AfewblocksofPorosstone,belongingtothewall oftheAltis(p.327),maybeseenintheS.W.angle. Passing hencetotheE.throughtheHerceonwereachtheExedra ofHerodesAtticus,thearchitectonicterminationofanaqueduct builtbyHerodesAtticus(pp.44,55)andextendingfromtheupper valleyoftheAlpheiostoOlympia.Thelowerpartisoccupiedby acisternorreservoir,flankedbytwocircularmarbleerectionswith eightcolumns,andaboveisalargevaultedsemicircularspace,the nichesinwhichformerlycontainedstatuesofthefamilyofHerodes andoftheimperialhouse.Ontheedgeofthecisternstooda marblebullbearingthededicatoryinscription.Thisbullandthe beautifulCorinthiancapitalofoneofthecolumnsarenowinthe Museum. troon Passing(i.e.thetwotemplealtarsweofcomethenextMothertoofthethefoundationsGods),theofimagetheMe-in whichhaddisappearedevenbythetimeofPausanias.Thebuild ingwasdeliberatelydemolishedintheByzantineperiod,andthe materialsusedforthewallofthefortification(p.328).Thethree stepsandasingledrumontheN.areallthathavebeenspared. ThetemplewasaDoricperipteroswithsixcolumnsattheends andelevenatthesides;thoughverysmall,itscellahadbotha pronaosandaposticum.Itwasprobablybuiltatthebeginningof the4thcent.B.C.AfewofthestatuesofRomanemperorswhich Pausaniassawinthecellahavebeendiscoveredamongthefound ations. Wenowascendtotheterraceofthetreasuriesbymeansofa flightofsteps,whichprobablydatesasfarbackasthePersian Wars.WebeginourinspectionattheW.end.BehindtheE.wing oftheExedraisanAltartoHercules,andadjacentisasmall square buildingwithapronaosofsoftlimestone.Thenameofthisevi dentlyveryancientsanctuaryisunknown. TotheE.ofthispointextendsthelongrowofTreasuries, whichhave beendescribedinconsiderabledetailbyPausanias. Theywereusedtopreservethesmallervotiveofferingsoftho varioustownsstates, andtheweaponsanddisksforthegames,etc. ThewesternmostistheTreasuryoftheSikyoniam(PI.I),con structedofbettermaterialthanwasusualatOlympia.Like most of theothersitconsistsofacella,withanarrowpronaos,distylein antis.Theentablature,columns,andwallmasonryhavebeendis coverednearlyentire,andnowliepartlybetweentheHeraeonand MetroonandpartlywithintheByzantinechurch(p.339).The capitalslietotheW.ofthealtarofZens; andoneoftheblocksof theE.anta,bearingthebuilders'inscription,maybeseeninthe museum.•—Pausaniasprobablydid notseethenexttwotreasuries (PI.IIandIII),whichweremostlikelydemolishedbyHerodes 336 Route47. OLYMPIA. Treasuries. Atticuso t makewayforhisaqueduct,afterhehadbuilttheExedra. Thefollowingfivetreasuries(PI.IV-VIII),belongingtothetowns ofSyracuse,Epidamnos,Byzantium,Sybaris,andCtyrene,are re presentednowonlybytheirfoundations,thoughafewfragments oftheirentablaturesandcolumnshavebeenfound.—TheTreasury ofSelinus(PI.IX)hasaninterestingfeatureinitsdoublefloor; thefragmentsofitsentablatureandterracottacornicerecallthe artisticformsoftheSelinuntiantemples.Ofthenexthouse,the TreasuryofMetapontus(PI.X),everythinghas disappearedbutthe terracotta-crowningoftheroof,whichisornamentedwithrosettes; buttheTreasuryofMegara(PI.XI)canbealmostcompletelyre stored.ItsDoriccolumns,architrave,triglyphs,cornices,andterra cottaroof(adomedwithpaintedmouldingsandpalmettes),which wereincorporatedinthe bodilyW.Byzantinewall,nowlietothe W.oftheBouleuterion(p.338).Thelimestonepediment-reliefs arepreservedintheMuseum(p.345). ThedemolitionoftheByzantinewallhasalsodisclosedthema terialsoftheTreasuryof Gela(PI.XII),thelastoftheseries. Thecella,whichwasolderthanthepronaos,wascrownedonthe outsidewitha stone-cornice,encasedinterracotta; andportionsof thiscornice,withtheironnailswhichservedtofastentheterra cottacasing,nowlietotheE. oftheByzantineW.wall.Almost allthestonesofthehexastyleportico,whichhad twocolumnsand apilasteroneachside,arestillextant,someintheE.andsomein theW.Byzantinewall.Thelaterdatethe ofporticoiseasilyseen fromitsfoundationsandtheshapeofitscapitals,andfromthepo sitionofthistreasuryrelativetotheothers. AsubstantialRetainingWall,withbuttresses,protectedthe treasuriesagainstlandslipsfromtheKronion; nearitareportions ofthevaultedaqueductofHerodesAtticus. Below theterraceofthetreasuries,fromtheN.E.angleofthe MetroontotheentranceoftheStadion,stretchesa longrowof pedestals.ThesesupportedtheZanes,orbronzestatuesofZeus (archaicformZav),whichwereerectedwiththefinesforbreaches oftherulesofthegames.ThesecondfromtheW.endbearsthe signatureofKleon,thelasttotheleft,attheentrancetothe Sta dion,thatofDsedalos,bothofSikyon. AccordingtoPausanias,EupdlosofThessalyhadtoerectthefirst six,atthebeginningofthe4thcent.B.C.Thenfollowedsixerectedby Athenianathletes,twoRhodians, by onebyApolloniosofAlexandria,two byDidasandSarapammon,'alsofromEgypt,andonebythecowardly SarapionofAlexandria,whohadenteredhimselfforthepankration but decampedthedaybeforethecompetition. StraightinfrontofustotheE.nowstandstheArchedEn trancebywhichthecompetitorsandumpiresenteredtheStadion. Thevaulting,whichhasbeenpartlyrestored,wasprobablycon structedduringtheRomanperiodontheoccasionoftheheighten ingoftheStadionembankments. Stadion. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.337 Only averysmallportionoftheStadionhasbeenuncovered. Therewereartificialembankmentsforthespectatorsonthreesides, butontheN.theseatswereplacedontheKronionandadjoining hills.Thereneverwereanyspeciallyconstructedstonetiersof seats.Thelowwallwhichindicatedthestarting-placeisingood preservation.ThegoalisindicatedbyasimilarwalltotheE.,which wereachbyadetourthroughthetrenches.Thedistancebetween thetwo,originallyarrangedforasimplestraightrace(notrounda turning-postandbackagain,asatAthens,p.50),is6304/5ft.,i.e. exactlythelengthoftheOlympicstadion,oneofthemostim portantlinearmeasuresofantiquity.The600thpartit of(1.05 Engl,ft.)madeanOlympicfoot. Parallel withtheStadion,ontheS„laytheHippodrome,with a triangularstarting-place, minutelydescribedbyPausanias.It hassincebeencompletelywashedawaythe byAlpheios(p.329), anditspositionisonlyfaintlymarkedbyaslightdepressioninthe ancientbedoftheAlpheios,stretchingfromtheOctagontothehill ofPisa(p.305). WenowreturntothevaultedentranceoftheStadion,passthrough it,andturntotheleft.HerearethefoundationsofthelargeEcho Colonnade,whichextendedalongtheE.boundaryoftheAltis formorethan100yards.ItwasbuiltintheMacedonianperiod afterthedestructionofanoldercolonnade,theremainsofwhich maystillbetraced.TheDoriccolumnsandtheentablaturewere utilizedbytheByzantinesfortheE. walloftheirfortifications; theynowlietotheE. oftheBouleuterion,neartheNikepedestal. Thebeautifullyoutlinedmarblesteps(partlyrestored)stillretain theiroriginalpositionattheangles.Animposingrowofpedestals ofverydiversecharacters,forvotiveofferingsor statues,hasbeen preservedtotheW.oftheportico.Amongthesemaybementioned theremainsoftwoIoniccolumns,30ft.high,onwhichstoodthe statuesPtolemy of II.PhiladelphosandhisconsortArsinoe. A numberofRomanbrickwallsruntotheS.andS.E.fromthe S.endoftheEchoColonnade,mostlybelongingtoaMansion, built,accordingtoaninscriptionfoundonaleadenpipe,bythe emperorNero.ThehousewascompletelyrebuiltinthelateKoman period,fromwhichtimealsodatesthelargemosaictotheE.ofthe EchoColonnade.BeneaththeRomanhouseispreservedthestylo- bateofanearlierGreekbuilding,datingprobablyfromthe4thcent. B.C.,andconsistingof fourapartments,flankedontheS.,W.and N.byaDoriccolonnade.ThenameandpurposeofthisSouth-Eastern Buildingareunknown. The. S boundary-walloftheAltisranbetweentheS.E.Build ing andtheBouleuterion.Herealsoarethesubstructuresof a late-RomanTriumphalGateway,constructedofancientmaterials. Nearthesamespotstoodamoreancientgate,notracesofwhich havebeenbroughttolightbytheexcavations. Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 22 338 Route47. OI/ifMPlA. Bouleuterion. After glancingattheancientfountainalittlefarthertothe S.W.,wefollowtheroadtotheW.,alongtheS.terrace-wallofthe templeofZeus.Totheleft,amongtheloftypilesofstones,isa substantialfoundation,whichoncesupportedequestrianstatuesof Mummiusandthe tenlegates.Totheright,abovetheE.Byzantine wall,istheinscribedbaseofastatueofTelemachos. Afewpacesfarthertothe"W.istheentrancetotheBouleu terion,onlytheS.portionofwhichisinanythinglikegoodpre servation.Itconsistsofasmallsquarecentralspaceandtwolong wings,each terminatingattheW.endinanapse.Thisground- planisofspecialinterest,forthisistheearliestknownoccurrence ofitinanyancientGreekbuilding.Thesquarecentralcourtseems tohavebeenusedbytheBoule,orcouncil,andprobablyalso containedtheStatueofZeusHorkios,theprotectorof oaths,re presentedwithathunderboltineachhand.Heretheathleteslook theprescribedoath(p.327).Theside-buildingswereeachdivided intotwoaislesbyrowsofcolumnsinthemiddle;andtheapses wereseparatedfromtherestbywalls,withstrongdoubledoors. Themainspacesarebelievedtohavebeenoffices,andtheapses treasuries.TheBouleuterionwasbuiltintheDoricstyle,andwas surroundedbyatriglyph-frieze.Itsmaterialswereusedinthe Byzantinefortifications,butsomehavenowbeenfittedtogether againintheN.wing.Amongthesearefragmentsofarchitraves withonlyAveguttseontheregula,andthecapitaloflarge a anta. ThethreepartsoftheBouleuterionwerefrontedontheE.bya commonIonicportico, thebasesofsomeofthecolumnsofwhich stillremain.Theextensivetrapezium-shapedcourtadjoiningthis porticoontheE.belongstoaverylateperiod; theDoriccolumns ofitscolonnadesareveryroughlydressed. TheendsofthelongSouthPorticohave beendiscoveredto theS.andS.W.oftheBouleuterion.Theportico,about260ft. inlength,opentotheS.,E.,andW.butclosedontheN.byawall, stoodonabaseofwhitelime-stone,approachedbythreesteps.The outerrowofcolumnswasDoricandsupportedanentablaturewith triglyphs; theinnerrow, dividingtheporticointotwoaisles,were Corinthian.Thestonesthis ofportico,whichwasstillstanding whentheByzantinewallwasbegun,Hescatteredcloseby. Passing twosmallerGreekbuildingsofunknownuse,totheW. oftheBouleuterion,wereturntothebroadroadleadingfromtheS.E. BuildingtotheS.W.triumphalgateoftheAltis.Ontheleftweno ticethematerialsoftheLeonidseonandofthetreasuriesofGelaand Megara,recoveredfromtheByzantinewall.TheDoricpilaster-capi talsbelongtothesecondofthese,theuprightcolumntothelast. .TheS sideoftheroadisoccupiedbyalongrowof pedestals, chieflyofequestrianstatutes; ontheN.sidethereareonlyafew foundationsofpedestals, twoofwhichbearinscriptions,onethe nameofSophokles,thesculptor,theother(thewesternmost)that Leonidaeon. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.339 ofPhilonidesof Crete,themessengerand'courier'ofAlexander the Great. We nextpassthroughtheW.GateoftheAltis,whichhasthree archwaysandwasadornedontheoutsidewithatetrastyleporch. Theprocessions,asdescribedbyPausanias,musthaveenteredthe Altisbythisentrance,thoughitsdimensionsarestrangelysmall forafestalgateway.Anaqueduct,fedfromtheexedraofHerodes, wascarriedatalaterdateoverthe topofthegate. The. W BoundaryWalloftheAltis,builtof'Poros'stoneand buttressedontheinnerside,herestillstandstoaheightofover 3ft.,andmaybetracedforitswholeextent.Itisseparatedfrom thelargebuildingsintheW.partofOlympiabyabroadtrack. An inscriptionprovesthatthelargebuildingtotheS.W.ofthis gateistheLeonidseon,mentionedPausanias, by whichwasorigi nallyerectedbyan EleiannamedLeonidasaboutthe4thcent. B.C.,forapurposenowunknown.Itwascompletelyrebuiltin RomantimesandbecametheresidenceoftheRomangovernor. Thesquarecentralcourt,inwhichlargetanksandgardensarestill tobeseen,wassurroundedbyaDoriccolonnade,ofwhichonlya fewprostrateremain, shaftsmostoftheresthavingbeenbuiltinto theByzantineW.wall.In theGreekperiodanumberoflargeand smallroomsopenedoffthecourt;butaftertherebuildingfourlarge separatedwellingsand twoorthreehallstooktheirplace.Asecond colonnadeof138Ioniccolumnssurroundedtheentireexteriorof thebuilding,givingitaveryimposingappearance.Onlythebasesof theseareleftintheoriginalpositions; shaftsandentablaturewere usedfortheByzantineW.wall.TheMuseum(p.346)contains numerousfragmentsofitsfinelydesignedcorniceofterracotta, adornedwithlions'heads. To theN.isagroupof buildings,thecentreofwhichisnow theByzantineChurch.Thislastisanancientedificealteredso thattheformerentrancewasclosedbyanapse,whileoneofthe formerwindowswasconvertedintotheentrance.Theinnerwalls, theperforatedmarblescreens,thealtar,andtheamboareByzan tine; marblecolumnswithRomancompositecapitalsdividedthe churchintothreeaisles.TheByzantinefloorhasbeenevery whereremoved,exceptinthevestibule,in ordertoexaminethe characteroftheGreeksubstructure.Someofthe lowestpartsof theshaftsoftheGreekbuildingarestillinsitu.Theground- planofthisGreekconstructionshowsan oblonghallwithtworows ofDoriccolumns,andanearlysquarevestibule,inthemiddle ofwhichisaRomanwater-tank.Theoriginaluseofthebuilding isuncertain.Sometakeitforthecouncil-roomandfestalhallof theoldpriests,whileothersbelieveittohavebeenthe'Studioof Phidias',whichthefirst-namedlocateinthelongnarrowbuilding totheS.ofthechurch.—ThebuildingsimmediatelytotheN.,a smallGreekandalargeRomandwelling-house,bothwithcolon- 22* 340 Route47. OLYMPIA. Gymnasium. nadedinnercourts,probablyformedtheTheokoleon,orpriests' abode.Ithaddirectcommunicationwith,thesacredAltisbymeans of asmallposternintheW.boundingwall.Thecourtofthe smallerhousecontainsanancientwellmadeofblocksofPoros stone.—TotheW.isanancientcircularedificewithaporticoon theW.side; itwasconstructedoftimberandcontainedanearthen altarcoatedwithstucco(nowintheMuseum,p.346),severalin scriptionsuponwhichshowedthatitwasdedicatedtosomehero. ThebuildingthereforemustberegardedasaHeroon. Abroadpassage,providedwithseveralconduits,dividesthe TheokoleonfromtheOlympicGymnasium.Thelatter,answering tothedescriptionofPausaniasconsistsoftwoparts: thePalaestra, asmallerenclosure,andthelargerGymnasiumproper(seebelow). ThePalaestrawasabout70yds.squareandenclosedalargecourt, surroundedbyaDoriccolonnade; theinterestingpavedspaceinthe N.partthis ofcourtwasusedforwrestling-matches.Wemayalso noticethemoundsofearthintheN.W.angle,inwhichthelower layersand ofclearlydatesfromthefirstinundationoftheKladeos. TheS.sideofthecolonnadehastwoaisles;offtheother three sidesopenedapartmentsof variousgenerally kinds,withIoniccol umnsinfront,whichmayhaveservedaslecture-rooms,bath rooms,etc.SomeofthesestillretaintheancientbenchesofPoros stonerunningroundthewalls.SeveraloftheDoriccolumnsofthe courtandof the Ioniccolumnsinfrontoftheside-chambershave beensetupagain.Theentrancestothepalaestraweresymmet ricallyplacedattheE.andW.anglesoftheS.facade,andconsisted ofsmallvestibules,eachprecededby twoCorinthiancolumnsbe tweenante. ImmediatelytotheN.ofthepalaestrawastheMainGymnasium, alargeopenspace,morethanastadioulong,surroundedbyacolon nade.Theexercise-groundsfortherunners,wrestlers,boxers,and otherathletesstoodhereintheopenair,forthecompetitorshadto spendthelastmonthoftrainingatOlympiaitselfunderthe eyeof theHellanodikae,whowerethemselvescarefullyinstructedintheir duty.Thosewhowishedmightevenspendthewholeoftheprescribed tenmonthsoftraining(p.327)atOlympia.TheS.colonnadeof thegymnasiumabuttedontheN. wallthe ofpalaestra;howfarit extendedtotheW.isunknown.TheE. colonnade,220yds. nearly inlength,isintheDoricstyleandisdividedintotwoaisles; itwas evidentlyusedasaracecourseinbadweather,foratthethirdcol umnoftheinnerrowwemaystillseethearrangementfor the starting-place.IntheS.E.angleofthegymnasiumthereisaspe cialPropylaeonforthelargeexercising-ground.Severalinteresting Corinthiancapitalsliescatteredaround. OppositethePropylaeonweseethefoundationsof theGate N. ofthe Altis,thedimensionsofwhichtallyexactlywiththoseof theW.gate(p.339).—FarthertotheN.aretheremainsofsome Museum. 0LYMP1A. 47.Route.341 RomanTliermae.Themosaicfigures(nowcovered)inthecolon naderoundthelargebasinareinteresting. OtherRomanThermaehavebeenfoundbesidethenewbridge overtheKladeos,withinterestingHypocausta(heating-apparatus) andmosaicfloors. On theothersidethe ofKladeos,atthefootofthehillof Drouva,istheconspicuousnew*Museum,whichcontainsthe marbleandbronzesculpturesandterracottasexhumedinthecourse oftheexcavations.Thehandsomebuildingwaserectedunder thesuperintendenceofSiebold,fromplansbytheGermanarchi tectAdlerandDr.Dorpfeld,atthecostthe ofAthenianbanker M.Syngros. Theportico,thetwocolumnsofwhicharereproductionsof thoseofthetempleofZeus,givesentrancestoaVestibule, containingafewinscriptions,beyondwhichweenterthe—

CentralHall,ahandsomeapartmentlightedfromtheroof. ItslengthcorrespondstothebreadthofthetempleofZeus,so thattheBerlinsculptorR.Oruttner,actingunderthedirectionsof ProfessorCurtius,hasbeenabletoarrangeheretheextantfrag mentsofthetwo pediment-groupsofthetempleintheiroriginal extent.Restorationsof thegroupsby HerrGriittner,one-tenththe sizeoftheoriginals,areexhibitedonthewallsbehind. AccordingtoPausaniasthesculpturesintheE.pediment(left) representedthePreparationofPelopshis forchariot-racewithEno- maos(p.326).InthemiddlestandsthecommandingfigureofZeus, thelowerpartofhisbodycoveredbyhisrobe(thehead,thelegs fromthekneesdownward,partoftherightarm,andthelefthand, whichprobablyheldasceptre,arewanting).Tothespectator's 342 Route47. OLYMPIA. Museum. right(totheleftofZeus)arethepowerfulformof(Enomaos (trunkandheadaloneextant)andSterope(puttogetheroutof severalfragments),theparentsofHippodameia.Tothespectator's left,i.e.IntheauspiciouspositionontherighthandofZeus, standstheyouthfulfigureoftheheroPelops(headandtrunkonly extant),andbesidehimisHippodameia,whosehandwasthereward ofthehero'svictory(feetandarmsalonewanting).Oneachside ofthesegroupsisaFourHorseChariot(bothputtogetheroutof numerousbrokenfragments),heldrespectivelybythecharioteers Myrtilos(ontheright),andSphaerosorKillas(ontheleft).The outermosthorseineachcaseissculpturedintheround,theothers areinreliefonly.Nexttothechariotontherightfollow succes sivelyanOldMan,withabaldpateandlongside-locks,restinghis headonhisrighthand; aSittingBoy(headwanting),withhisleft legraisedandcoveredbythegarmentfromhisshoulder,hisright handleaningontheground,hislefthandtouchinghisleftfoot; and,intheextremeangle,therecumbentriver-godKladeos,ofa youthfulformandanimatedappearance,leaningonhiselbow,and twistinghisbody,soastoturnhisheadtowardsthesceneinthe centre.BehindthechariotofPelops(tothespectator'sleft)are figuresofaSittingMan(muchdamaged); aKneelingOirl,fully draped,embracingherrightlegwithherrightarm; andlastly,in theangle,theriver-godAlpheios,lyingatfulllength. Thesculpturesinthe"W.pediment(right)representedthe FightoftheLapithaeandtheCentaursatthemarriageofPeirithoos. Thecentreisoccupiedbythecolossalfigureof*Apollo(feet andfingersoftherighthandalonewanting),standingsereneinthe thickofthefray,butwithhisrighthandstretchedoutwithacom mandinggesture.Oneachsideisagroupof threefigures: thatto theleftofthebeholderlookingtowardsthepedimentrepresents aCentaurabouttocarryoffaWoman,whomheholdswithhisleft handandrightforefoot,whileshe,inherstruggles,seizeshimby thehairandbeard.WithhisrighthandtheCentaurdefendshimself againstPeirithoos(onlya partofhisbodyandhis*Headextant) whoadvancestotherescuewithhisbattle-axeraised.Inthecor respondinggrouptotherightofthespectatortheCentaur(the equinebody,andtheheadandneckpreserved)has seizeda *Woman bythehipandbreast,whileshestriveswithbothhandstofree herself; oftherescuinghero,Theseus,onlyscantyfragmentshave beenfound.Eachofthesegroupswassupportedbyasmallgroup oftwofigures: totheleft,aKneelingLapith,withhisarms locked roundtheneckofaCentaur,whomheisstrangling,whilethelatter biteshisassailantonthearm; totheright,aCentaurcarryingoffa Boy(muchinjured).Thenfollowedanotherlargegroupofthree figuresoneachside.Thebest-preservedfigureinthegroupon theleftisthe"Woman,whohassunkonherknees,while the rearingCentaurclutchesherhairwithhislefthandholds andher Museum. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.343 fastwithahoofoaherhreast.Thehumanpartofthe Centaur's bodyiswanting,andonlyaportionoftheheadwithitslonghair hasbeenfound; hedefendedhimselfwithhisrighthandfroma KneelingLapithattackinghimontheleftside.Inthecorrespond inggroupfromtherighttheCentaurisalsorearing,graspingthe Womanwithbothhands,whilesheendeavourstofreeherselffrom hisrighthand; theupperpartof theCentaur'sbodyhasagaping woundontherightshoulder,andaholethe inbreast,wherethe swordofthekneelingon Lapiththerighthasgivenhimhisdeath blow.ThecompositionwasterminatedateachendbytwoRe cumbentWomenwatchingthefight,theforemostineachcasebeing anoldwoman,supportingherselfonherarms; thosebehindare youthfulforms,probablylocalgoddesses. The end-wallsofthishallareoccupiedbytheremainsofthe Metope-Reliefs,representingtheLaboursofHercules,whichadorn edtheoutsideof theend-wallsofthecellaofthetemple.Theyare arrangedaccordingtoplansbyProfessorTreu.(The Nikeof P;eo- nios,attheN.endofthisroom,isdescribedatp.344.)Thereliefs areallmuchdefaced,andofsomeonlysmallfragmentshavebeen discovered.Severalofthemoreimportantfragments,whichwere discoveredbytheFrenchexpeditionof1829andarenowinthe Louvre,arehere representedbyplaster-casts. On theS.wall,totherightoftheentrance,below:1.Her culesandtheNemeanLion(onlyafewfragmentsextant;thelion isaeastaftertheoriginalintheLouvre); thehero,besidewhom standsAthena,plantshisrightfootonthebodyofthedead monster.Thehairofthefiguresinthesemetopesisnotsculptured, butwasindicatedbypainting.—2.FightwiththeLerneanHydra. —3.HerculespresentingAthenawiththeStymphalianBirds(the figureofthegoddess,seatedonarock,andtheheadofthehero arecastsaftertheoriginalsintheLouvre).—Above,inevenworse preservation:totheleft,4.CaptureoftheBrazen-footedHind;to theright,6.HerculeskillingtheQueenoftheAmazons(ofthelatter theheadonlyisextant). Ontheothersideofthe entrance,below:6.Cleansingofthe AugeanStable.Theheroishereseenaccomplishinghistask,not, astheusualmythhasit,bydivertingariver,butbymeansofa shovel.BesidehimstandsAthena,inagracefulgarment.—7.Her culesfightingwithOeryon,amonsterwiththreebodies(chieflycasts aftertheoriginalsintheLouvre).—8.Herculesdraggingthechained Cerberustothelightofday,puttogetherfromaboutfortyfrag ments.—Above,almostcompletelydefaced:totheleft,9.Theft oftheHorsesofDiomede;totheright,10.HerculesandtheEry- manthianBoar. On theexit-wall(N.)ofthisroom,totheleft,*11.Hercules winningtheApplesoftheHesperides.InthemiddlestandsHer cules,supportingtheheavensforAtlas,whoisholdingouttohim 344 Route47. OLYMPIA. Museum. theapplesof theHesperideswithbothhands;ontheotherside oneoftheHesperides,thedaughtersofAtlas,isholdingoutone armasiftoaidtheherotosupporthisburden.—Totheright,12. HerculessubduingtheCretanBull(theonlyoriginalpartisthe bull'shead;therestisnowintheLouvre). BetweenthetwodoorsintheN.wall,ontheupperportionof itsoriginalpedestal,butinalowerpositionthanthatforwhichthe figurewasoriginallyintended,standsthe*NikeofPaeonios.The fragmentsofthisstatuehavebeenpiecedtogetherintheiroriginal positions,so farthe asrottenandbrittlenatureofthemarble wouldpermit;portionsofthewingsandoftheflowingrobe havehadtobeleftout.Thegoddessisrepresentedasflying,and bya veryboldconception,appearsasthoughhoveringdetached fromthebase.Thisworkmustdatefromabout420B.0.(comp. p.332;areconstructionbyHerrGriittner,one-flfththesizeofthe original,isexhibitedtotheright). We-nextentertheN.CentralRoom,inwhich,totheleft, standsadmirable the **HermesofPraxiteles,oneofthebest-pre servedofancientstatues(thefewmissingpartssuppliedin plaster, aftertherestorationbyProfessorSchaper),andwithoutdoubtthe mostperfectexpressionofmanlybeautylefttousbyantiquity. Pausaniashas preservedthenameoftheartist(comp.p.xciv). ThegodisrepresentedsupportingtheinfantDionysosonhisleft arm,whichrestsonthestumpofatree,overwhichhehasthrown hismantle.Thecaduceuswasinhislefthand,whilehisrightwas raisedandapparentlyheldsomeobjectbeforechild. theThethongs ofthesandalofthebeautifullyexecutedrightfootstillex hibitedtracesofredcolourandgildingwhenfirstdiscovered.An ironrodfastenedtothebackofthefigure,whichisbutslightly sculptured,securesitagainstthedangerofbeingoverturnedbyan earthquake.ThestatueisexecutedinthefinestParianmarble(Lych- nitesLithos; p.xlv). The arrangementoftheotherroomsisnotyetcomplete,andis liabletoalterations.—Thecorridorleadingtotheleftfromthe Hermesroom,andagainturningtotheleft,conductsustotheW. SuiteopRooms(PI.I-IV). RoomI. Inscribedstones,notyetarranged. I.RoostI LargeLions'HeadsfromtheTempleofZeus,wheretbey servedaswater-spoutsonthesima.TwolargeBronzeCauldrons,Fine BronzeFoot,theonlyremnantofa bronzestatue,stillattachedtothe pedestal. Room III.Theglass-casethecentre in containssomeoftheSmall Bronzesat foundOlympia.About14,000inallwerediscovered,butmost ofthematenowinAthens.Amongthefragmentsofstatuettesand statues,reliefs,andfiguresofanimal9(somegilded),thefollowingmay benoted: ArchaicBullsHead, ofbronzeplate.Hornandearofalarge Bull,theremainsofthebrazenbullmentionedbyPausaniasashaving beendedicatedtoZeusbytheEretrians.ItwastheworkofPhilesios (5thcent.B.C.)Thesefragmentswerefoundbesidethebasementionedat p.332.LargemassiveSphinx,withwingsandtwohumanfaces; various figuresservingashandlesorfeetforvessels,someintheAssyrianstyle. Museum. OLYMPIA. 47.Route.345 Also,helmets,armonr,greaves,spear-heads,andotherweapons;orna ments; weights,spring-balances('halteres1);largebronzediscuswithde dicatoryinscriptionofthe255thOlympiad(241A.D.);rings, nails;small tripodsandfragmentsoflargeones;thelargeringswereusedashandles forthecauldronsbelongingtothetripods;hiltsandvessel-handlesofall shapes.—Theinscriptionsthatappearonsomeofthevessels,spear heads,andtabletsareinmanycasesimportantmonumentsoftheGreek languageandwriting.—Afewmarbleandterracottaheadsarealsoplaced here;theformerincludinga smallHeadofAphroditeofagoodperiod, thelatteraHeadofZeus,ofgood a periodbutmuchdamaged,anda very ancientHeadofHera,withthefacepaintedwhiteandtheeyes,eye brows,andhairdarkened. V.RoomI StatuesofRomanemperors: ClaudiusasJupiter(with thenamesofthesculptors,HagiasPhilatheneeos), and Titus(withNereids onhisarmour),Hadrian(withrelief a representingPallasandtheRoman she-wolfonhisarmour).Severaldrapedstatues(two bearrespectively thesculptor'ssignaturesofEleusiniosandAulosSextosEraton),etc.— Marblepedestalintheformofanastragal. We nowcrossthevestibule(p.341),andentertheE.Surra opRooms(PI.V-IX). Room. V Romandrapedstatues; totheright,maletorsoofthe5th century.FartheronaretheinscriptionfromtheLeonidaon,mentioned at p.339,andthealtarfromtheHeroon, mentionedatp.340. I.RoomV Romandrapedstatues;fragmentaryRomanColossalZeus, inPentelicmarble,discoveredintheMetroon(p.335);BullfromtheExedra ofHerodesAtticus(p.335); Lionholdingasheepbeneathitsrightpaw, foundatVarvasseena. Room Vlt.^ReliefsfromthePedimentoftheTreasuryoftheMegareans, piecedtogetherfromnumerousfragments.AccordingtoPausaniastheyre presentedthecontestofthegodswiththegiants,whoappear,accordingto theancientmode,aswarriorsinarmour.Themissingcentralfigurewas certainlyZeus(onlythefeetremain)jwhom beforeamortally-wounded gianthassunkonhisknees.Oneachsidewasagodovercomingaprostrate giant(portionsofboththegiantsremain,butonlya fragmentofthe bodyofthegod ontheright);eachofthecornergroupsconsistedofa godkneeling(thatontherightalmostperfect)aboveaconqueredgiant, intheonecase(right)stretchedatfull-length,intheother(left)sinking backwardstotheground.Thisistheearliestextantpedimentalsculpture ofancientGreekart; andtheextremelyarchaicstylemaystillbere cognizedinsomeofthefiguresandheads(comp.p.lxxvii).—Also,large archaicHeadofHera,inmarl-limestone,probablyfromtheimagewor shippedintheHereeon(p.334);terracottaAcroterionfromtheHerseon. Room VIII.Romanfemalestatues; maletorsoabovelife-size.Crown ingX.RoomTilesinI terracotta.(usuallyclosed)containsthegreaterpartthe of•Archi tectonicTerracottas,chieflycrowning-tiles,whichweremadeofburnt clayinthecaseall oftheancientbuildingsofOlynipia,exceptthetemple ofZeusanda fewothers.About50differentkindshavebeenfound. Fragmentsofa largePedimentAkroterionfromtheHeraeon,elaborately articulatedinanarchaicstyle.—TerracottaOrnamentsfromtheTreasury ofOela,includingcolouredterracottaplaquesortilesfromthepediment andcornice.Fartheronisa curiousseriesofroof-ornaments,including circularpalmette-akroteria,disk-shaped water-spouts,finearchaiclions, andheadsofMedusa,allofwhichmayhavebelongedtotheBouleuterion, —SimafromtheTreasuryMegara, ofoneoftheearliertype,withred andblackpalmetteornamentsonayellowground,correspondingtothe earlierpaintedvaseswithblackfigures;thelatertype,likethelater vases,hadlightfiguresona darkground.Herealsoarepartsofa Simawithstampedrosettesandpaintedhand,probablyfromtheTreasury oftheMetapcntians.—Thechiefexampleof a thirdtypeofsima,decorated entirelywithtendrils,inembossedrelief,istheSimaoftheLeonidaeon, 346 Route47. OLYMPIA. withpalmettofacingtilesandfinelions'beads.Thissimawasafterwards oftenimitated,especiallyintheRomanbuildingsoftheAltis. On thehillbehindtheMnseum,515ft.abovethesea-leveland 375ft.aboveOlympia,liesDrouva,asmallbutthrivingvillage. Thehandsomehonse('Palati')onthebrowofthehillwasbuilt bytheGermangovernmentforthedirectorsoftheexcavations, andisnowprivateproperty.—Avisitshouldbemadetothe (10min.)W.summitofthehillofDrouva,calledMonteverde bytheGermans,asitcommandsabeautifulviewofthevalleys oftheAlpheiosandKladeosandofthesurroundingmountains. A pleasantwalkmaybemadefromOlympiabyascendingtheValley oftheAlpheiosandfollowingthe'roadtoArcadia'skirtingtheslopesof thehillsadjoiningMt.Kronos,tothe'Suitors'Hill'(p.306). From OlympiatoPatbasvia.Tbipotamo,2-3days(provisionsneces sary).ThisrouteisrecommendedforthereturnfromOlympia.Theroad leadstotheN.,upthepicturesquelywoodedvalleyof theKladeos,and ascendssteeplyto(3hrs.)Lala,situatedonthevergeofa plateauonthe 8.E.slopeofAft.Pholoe,withaformerTurkishfortcommandingafineview oftheuppervalleythe ofAlpheiosandoftheArcadianmountains.Beyond Lalawetraverseahollow,thenascendthroughfineoak-woodsacross thegraduallynarrowingplateau,andfinally(272hrs.)reachtheimposing valleythe ofErymanthos.Theroad(badatplaces)runsalongtheright bank,highabovethestream,andfrequentlycrossesthe gorgesofsmall tributaries.Inalateralvalleyaboveus,totheJeft,liesthehiddenmoun refugetain-villagefromtheofDivri,TurksusedduringbythetheWarsurroundingofIndependence.populationInas2l/2aplacehrs.weof reachtheKhanofTripotamo(veryindifferentaccommodation),pictur esquelysituatedatapointwheretwosmallstreamletsentertheEryman- tbos.Immediatelyabovethekhan,ontherightbankoftheriver,is thesiteoftheancientPsophis,afortressdescribedbyPolybios,which layatthemeeting-pointofElis,Arcadia,andAchaia.Considerableremains oftheboundary-wall,andoftemple-foundationsmarkthespot.Itwas inthisregionthatHerculesissaidtohaveslaintheErymanthianboar.1 —InV*hr.moreourpathquitsthevalleyoftheErymanthos,through whicharoute(mentionedatp.299)leadsvia.Anastdsovato(6hrs.)Kala- vryta.Weentertheside-valleywhichhereopensontheN.,andascend citherontherightbankofthestreamto(3/4hr.)Leivastri,orontheleft bankto hr.)Lechouri.Fromboththesevillagessteepandlaborious pathslenduptothepassovertheKalliphoneMts.(6500ft.).Fromthe summitofthepassweobtainaviewtothe8.acrosstheArcadianAlps tothedistantpeaksofMesseneandLaconia,whiletotheW.risesthe snow-cappedErymanthosorOlonos(7300ft.).Wedescendthroughpine- woods,inwhichthetwopathssoonunite,andin hr.reachEagios Vlasos(primitiveaccommodation),situated41/ahrs.the to W.ofKala- vryta(p.299).FromHag. VlasosanewroadleadsviaPldtanos,L6peti, andMintzenato(7hrs.)Patras(p.28).Thisjourneymay,ifnecessary, beaccomplishedin2daysifthetravellertelegraphsfromOlympiatoPa tras,orderingacarriagetomeethimatHagiosVlasos. 48. Kalamata,Messene,andthencetoPhigalia. This routeoccupiestwodays.FibstDay.FromKalamatarail by waytoTsephereminiandthenceon horseback(horse6-10dr.perday)or onfootto(U/4hr.)Vourkano.AvisittotheruinsofMesseneandto lthometakesabout5hrs.ThenightisspentatVourkanooratAfeligala, 2-21/2hrs.fartheron.ThosewhointendtosleepatMeligalashouldar rangetocontinuetheirjourneyimmediatelyafterinspectingtheArcadian date(comp.p. 351).—SecondDay.FromTsepheremini(orMeligala)by railtoJHavolitsi,andthenceonhorsebackinabout4hrs.toPhigalia.— KALAMATA.J8.Route.347 Hurriedtravellersmaygoonbyevening-trainfromTsephereminito Diavolitsievenonthefirstday. Kalamata.—Hotels.*Hoteld'Eobope,inthestreetleadingfrom thestationtothetown,new,bed3-5dr.; XenodochiontonXenon,R. froml!/2dr.—Restaurant.XenodochionKalamae,oppositeHotel the d'Europe,fair.—Open-AikTheatre.Eden,withgarden-restaurant,to theright,outsidethetown. Carriages.Fromthe'Skala'tothetown2dr.(arailwayisaboutto beopened). SteamersoftheGreekCompanies(pp.xix-xx)touchhereeighttimes weekly,fourtimesingoingE.(E.33)andfourtimesingoingW.(R.45). —Embarkingordisembarking,1-lVzdr.withluggage. Kalam&ta,officiallynamedKaldmaeaftertheancienttown referredto at348, p. thecapitalofthenomarchyofMesseniaand theseatan ofarchbishop,lies1M.fromthesea,onthelefthank oftheNedon,thebroadchannelofwhichgenerallycontainsbuta scantystreamofwater.Thepopulation(10,700)isindustrial.The townperhapsoccupiesthesiteoftheancientPheraeorPharae mentionedbyHomer,butotherwiseofnoimportance.In1205 GeoffroyI.deVillehardouin(p.232)establishedhimselfhereand builtthestrongcastle,whichafterwardspassedsuccessivelyinto thehandsoftheVenetiansandtheTurks.OnApril4th,1821,the MainotesofPetrobeycapturedthetown,andonthefollowingday asolemnservicewasheldonthebanksoftheNedon,tosupplicate theblessingofheavenontheGrecianarms.Thiswasthebeginn ingoftheSevenYears'WarofLiberation. The recentlyimprovedharbour, usuallyknownastheSkala, offerslittlesheltertoshipping, thoughit isofimportanceforthe exportofcurrants, figs, etc.ThevillageofNeaeKaldmaewhich isgrowingupherehasalready800inhab.,andisvisitedannually bysea-bathers.ThereisaprettyviewhenceacrosstheMessenian Gulf(pp.264and322).—Thecarriage-roadandrailway(not yet opened)tothetown(1M.)runthroughgardens,theluxuriantfruit- treesofwhichalmostentirelyconcealthehouses. Theres i nothingveryinterestinginKalamataitself.Inthe well-filledbazaarstandsthechurchoftheBagiiApostoli.The manufactureofsilk,formerlyanimportantindustry,hasgreatly declinedsincetherearingofsilk-wormshas givenplacetothecul turecurrants. of Therearenowfourspinningestablishments,em ployingabout300womenandgirls.TheknivesofKalamata(with nickel-silverhilts,6dr.)arenoted.Twonewironbridgesconnect thetownwiththehumblesuburbofEalyvia,ontherightbankof theNedon. TheFrankishCastlestandsonan'easily[climbedrocktothe N.E.andiswellworthavisit.GuillaumeII.deVillehardouin, thefourthprinceofMorea,whooftenstyledhimself'ofKalamata', wasbornherein1218anddiedherein1278.Thefortifications consistofanouterwall,enteredbya gateadornedwiththelion of St.Mark,andofaninnercitadelabove,inwhichseveralvaulted 348 Route48. MESSENE.FromKalamata buildingsstillstand.Thepresenceofancienthewnstonesinthe walls,aswellasthewholearrangementofthefortress,clearlyin dicatesthatthehillmusthavebeenfortifiedinantiquityalso. Themagnificentviewextendsacrossthe6tonychanneloftheNedon, whichentersthoplaintotheN.E.betweensteepcliffs,andoyerthe richplain,withitsgrovesofalmond,orange,citron,andolivetrees surroundedbyluxuriantcactushedges,totheseaandthemoun tains:totheE.areTaygetosandthemountainsofMaina;tothe W.istheMathiagroup(p.354); andtotheN.W.,beyondthe Makaria(seebelow),risesthehillofIthome(p.350).

RailwayfromKalamatatoDiavolitsi,23'/2M., In2hrs. (fares4dr.80,3dr.601.); toTsepheremini, in8/4hr.(fares2dr. 701., 2dr.).Theline intersectstheluxuriantlyfertile'Lower Plain'(10M.long,3M.broad),whichinantiquityborethename ofAfafcaria,orthe'happyland'.ThePamisos(p.352)flowsat somedistance.—31/2M.Asprdchoma,whenceabranchdiverges toNisi(p.363).ThenameoftheneighbouringvillageofKal&mi (totheN.)recallsthatofatownofthePericeki.—5M.Thouria and(8M.)Aslan-Agaarethrivingvillages.—lOtygM.Basta.— 13M.Tsepheremini,alargevillagewith1100inhab.,isthestart ing-pointfortheexcursiontoMessene.(Continuationofrailway, seep.353.) Messene. A VisittoMessene,whichmaysometimesbeaccomplishedina day fromKalamatawhenthetrainsaresuitable,ishighlyattractive.Its wallsandtowers,whichwerepraisedbyPausanias,areamongthebest- preservedinGreece,andstillbearsplendidtestimonytotheadvanced stateofthescienceoffortificationamongtheancients.Thesceneryhere isalsoverybeautiful.Thewallsareeverywherewreathedwith luxu riantivy,andvineyardsandcultivatedfieldscoverthesiteoftheruins. —Bridle-pathfromNisitoVourkdnoandMavromati,seep.363. Thebridle-pathfromTsephereminitothe(l'^hr.)conventof Vourkano,whichisatonceinsight,crossesthePamisosandleads upthehillofHagiosVasilios, whichisadjoinedontheN.W.by theproudhillofIthome.Mt.Vasilios,theEuaoftheancients, wasdedicatedtoDionysosandhisfollowers;itsmodernnameis derivedfromthechapelontheflatsummit.Forsomeunknown reasonitwasnotincludedinthefortificationsofMessene,perhaps becausetheS.slopeissosteepthattheheight couldbeheldby astrong guard.AttheconventofVonrkinoorVoulkano(1255ft.), strangerswhoarrivebeforesunsetarehospitablywelcomed(comp. p.liii).Those,however,whohavebroughtprovisionsandproposeto returntoKalamatathesameday,ascendatoncetotheIthomehill. Of allthecountriesinthePeloponnesus,Messeniahastheleastillus trioushistory.Theluxuriantfertilityofitshappyvalleysencouraged theeffeminacyoftheinhabitantsandexcitedthecovetousnessoftheir neighbours,whiletheflatcoastslayopentotheattacksofpiratesand hostilefleets.

to PhigaUia. MESSENE. 48.Route.349 IntheHomericpoemstheW.coastdistrict,withTriphylia,formed aseparatekingdomunderNestor,thesonofNeleus(p.356); thepart, E. orMesseniaproper,wassubjecttotheAtridseofMycenseandSparta. Othertraditionsalsorepresenttheinfluenceoftheneighbouringterri toriesasimportant.Thefoundingofthe(Lelegtean)monarchyissaidto havetakenplace,aftertheremoteantiquityofthePelasgiantimes,with thehelpofArgosandLacedsemon.PolykaonandhiswifeMesseneare namedasthefirstroyalpair.TheirseatwasAndania(p.853),beyondthe N.borderofthe'upperplain-1(p.291),andfromthelattercomesthename Messeneor'middle-land1.TheLelegseweresucceededbyanjEolicline ofprinces,whosechiefcitieswereAreneandPylos(p.357).Wealsolind numeroustracesoftheMinyae(p.187)onthecoasts. After theDoricinvasion,MesseniafelltoKresphontes,whofixedhis residenceatSfenyklaros(p.291)andendeavouredtounitetherightsofthe ancientinhabitantsandthedemandsofthevictoriousinvadersbya peaceableadjustment.Butthekingandhis entirehouseweredefeated bytheresistanceoftheDoricnobles,whobelievedthattheirleaderwas betrayingthem.Subsequently,however,thedifferentracesblendedinto one.UndertheinfluenceofMessenianprosperity,theDorianslosttheir roughcharacter,andbecameso closelyidentifiedwiththenativepopu lation,thattheycouldscarcelyberegardedbytheSpartansasbelonging anymoretothesamestockasthemselves.Intheheroicthoughunsuc cessfulwarsagainsttheirneighbour'slustofconquest,theMessenian populationwasweldedintoonepeople.Afterfirst thewar(743-724V), inwhichKingAristodemosdistinguishedhimselfandIthomebecamethe capitalfortressofthecountry,theMessenianswhodidnotmigratewere forcedtopaytributetoSparta.Aftersecond thewar(645-628?),inwhich AristomenescoveredhimselfwithgloryandEira(p.316)becamethecentre ofthedefence, manyoftheMesseniansagainemigrated(amongother placestoZankleinSicily,whichwasthenceforthcalledMessana).Those whoremainedbehindbecamehelots.Oncemoretheoppressed people rose,thistimeinconnectionwiththeslavesofSparta,andagainforti fiedIthome(465).Afterstruggle a oftenyearstheremnantofthegarrison wasforcedtosurrender(455).Theystipulated,however,forfreedeparture andacceptedtheinvitationoftheAthenianstotakeuptheirabodeat Naupaktos(p.33). Messeniathenceforthremainedintheundisturbedpossessionofthe Spartans,untilEpaminondas,afterhisfirstinvasionofthePeloponnesus in369,collectedthewidelyscatteredMessenians,whoinmannersand speechhadremainedtruetotheirorigin,andunitedmanyArcadiansand otherswiththem,tofoundalargecityatthefootofIthome.Thesuper- intendanceofthebuildingwasentrustedtotheArgivegeneralEpiteles. AccordingtoPausanias,thecompleteexecutionofthetaskdid nottake morethanasinglesummer.Missene,asthenewcitywasnamed(the countrynowbeingcalledMessenia),wasintendedtoserveasthepolitical centreandstrongbulwarkoftheMessenianLeague,asMegalopoliswas oftheArcadians,againstthe alreadydecliningpowerofSparta.Butthe objectofalastingandindependentdevelopmentofthecountrywasnot achieved.FearofSpartanencroachmentsinducedtheMessenianstoally themselveswithPhilipII.ofMacedon.TheyhesitatedtojointheAchwan League,whichaloneheldoutanyhopeofa firmallianceofallthe Peloponnesians.WhilePherae(p.347),Thoitria(nearVei'saga,2hrs.tothe N.W.ofKalamata),andAbia(nearthemodernMandi'nia,9M.tothe S.ofKalamata)enteredtheleagueasindependentmembersin182,the capitalitselfstoodonthesideoftheMacedonians,andthusincreased thedisorderinGreekaffairs,whichsoessentiallylightenedthetaskof conquestfortheRomans.Asatown,however,Messeneenjoyedacer tainimportanceuntilthelatestantiquity.Nothingisrecordedofany deliberatedestructionofit. OnleavingtheconventofVourkanowefirstturntothehillof Ithome,whichhearsthemostancientruinedwallsandalsoaffords thebestgeneralsurveyofthewholearrangementofthelatertown. 350 Route48. MESSENE.FromZalamata We entertheprecinctsofthelatterattheso-calledLaconicalGate, 20min.fromtheconvent.Thegatewaywasasmalldetachedbuild ing,flankedoneachsidebytowers; butowingtoitspoorstateof preservation,thedetailscannotnowbemadeout. WeleavetheroadtoMavromatitotheleft, whilethelineof wallrunstotherighttowardIthome,onthehighestvergeofthe rockyridge.WeaBcendbyasteepwindingtrack.In'/2hr.anar rowpath(mentionedatp.361)leadstotheleftMavromati; to its positionshouldcarefully be notedforthereturn.WetakeV2hr. moretoreachthesummit,thelastpartofthepath almostresem blingaspiralstaircase. *Ith6me,thenaturalAcropolisofMessenia,risestoaheightof 2630ft.abovethesea-level,andistheloftiestfortifiedmountain inGreeceaftertheArcadianOrchomenos(p.294).Thehighestpart ofthemountainformsagroupofthreepeaks,runningfromS.E. toN.W.; theS.E.peakisthelowest.Thetwoothersconstituted theancientfortressofIthome.Theruinedwallswhichstillremain canscarcelyhavebelongedtotheoriginalcastlewhichtheSpartans aresaidtohaverazedtothegroundafterthefirstMessenianwar; theyareprobablyrelicsofthefortresserectedinthethirdMes senianwar(409-460)ontheoldsite.Thecentralpeak,onwhich arethethreshing-floors('A16nia')ofaformerconventandatrigono metricalsignal,isthesceneofthecelebrationofthelocalfestivals ofthePanagfa.Belowisanancientcistern.Anancientpathleads fromthefloorstothesummit,onwhichisablockofstonewith severalsquarevotive-niches.Onthehighestsummit,wherea hermithastakenuphisabodeamongtheruinsofmonastery, a formerlystoodtheancientSanctuaryof ZeusIthomatas,towhich wasaccordedtherightofasylum.Thiswasprobablymerelyalarge altaronwhich,asontheLykaeon,humansacrificeswereoffered. Totherightoftheentrancetotheruinedconventaretwosmoothed blocksofstone,withholesfortheinsertionofroundsteles.The cliffstotheS.ofthemonasteryoverhangalittle.Ontheiredge aretwolargeancientcisterns,withstonetroughs. The"Viewfromtheruinedconventembracesnotonlythewhole ofMessenia,butalsothemassivechainofTaygetos(p.281)and otherhighmountain-rangesbeyonditsborders; totheS.andW.is thesea.Wealsocommandanexcellentsurveyoftheextentof thelatertownofMessene(DoricMessdna),thewallofwhichruns overtheN.W.spurofMt.Ithome,thenalongthelattertoapoint nearthevillageofSimiza(p.362); totheN.ofthisvillageit turnstotheE.andrunstowardstheLaconian(see Gateabove), whenceitreturnstothesummitofthehillinthemannerabove described.Theground-planisthusanirregularquadrilateral; the entirecircuitwasaboutM.,ornearlyaslongasthecircuitof Sparta.Besidesitsregularpopulationthetowncouldgiveasy lumtothousandsoffugitivesfromtheneighbourhoodintimeof to Phigaleia. MESSENE. 48.Route.351 danger,anditevenincludedfarms,ontheproduceofwhichthe latterlivedincaseofalengthenedsiege.Thewatchingofsoex tendedafrontwasnaturallyattendedwithdifficulty; andinfact wereadthatbothDemetriosPoliorketes(p.217)in298,andthe SpartantyrantNahisin202,tookthetownbysurprise. Inordertoinspecttheindividualpointsintheruins,wede scendbythewaywecameuntilwereachthepointwherethenar rowpathmentionedat p.350divergestoMavromati.Theruins totheleftwerecarefullyexaminedbytheFrenchmanLeBas; a smallIonicorCorinthiantempleinantis(55ft.longby 32ft. broad),perhapsthetempleofArtemisLaphria,seemstohave stoodonthespot. OntheS.slopeoftheAcropolis,inthedirectionofMavromati, isakindofrock-chamber,whichwasformerlyadjoinedbyapor tico.SomeauthoritiesconsiderthistobethespringKlepsydra, fromwhichwaterwaseverydayfetchedtothe sanctuaryofZeus Ithomatas.Butitis,perhaps,moreprobablethattheKlepsydra wasthespringattheC/4hr.)villageofMavromati(1375ft.; 600inhab.),whichissuespicturesquelyfromanancientwallon thehill-slopeandhasgiventhepleasantvillageitsname,mean ing'blackeye'.Variousantiquitiesdiscoveredamongtheruins ofMessene(inscriptions,sculpturedfragments,etc.)arepreserved intheschool-houseandarewillinglyshewnbythe'Demodidas- kalos'orschoolmaster. WenowturntotheN.wall,thebestpreservedpartoftheold fortifications,andin20min.reachthe**AbcadianGatb.This formedasmalldetachedfortification,withanouterandinner an gateandaroundcourtbetweenthem,asintheDipylonatAthens Theouterentranceisflankedbysquaretowers,about30ft.apart. Theoutergate,16ft.wideandformerlyvaulted,isformedby wallsstretchinginwardson bothsides.Passingthroughthegate way,weenteraroundcourtabout55ft.indiameter,thewallsof whichrisein9-10irregularcoursesofmasonrytoa heightof 20-23ft.Oneachsideoftheentranceisasemicircularniche.The nameof'QuintosPlotiosEuphemion',whichappearsoveroneof these,isprobablythatofthedonororrestorerofoneofthesculp turesformerlyhere.(Pausaniasmentionsa hermaoftheAttic patterninthegateway.)Thecourtopenedtowardsthetownby meansofadoublegate.Thelargestone,about19ft.long,which formedthecentre-post,nowlies,intwopieces,onthethreshold. Infrontofitaretheremainsofapavedroad,whichprobablyled tothemarket(p.352).Theexcellentpreservationofnearlyall itsessentialpartsmakestheArcadianGateoneofthefinestex tantexamplesofancientdefensivemilitaryengineering. The Towebbwithwhichthewallswerestrengthenedalsofairly exciteourastonishment.ThoseontheN.sidearethebestpre served; thefinestareimmediatelytotheE.oftheArcadianGate, 352 Route48. MESSENE.FromKalamata on theprojectingspursofMt.Ithome.Mostofthemaresquarein ground-plan(20-25ft.square,projecting12ft.fromthewall),but somearenearlysemicircularinoutline.Thelattergenerallyhare sally-ports.Thedoorstotheinteriorofthetowersareonalevel withthe topofthetown-wall,whichisreachedbyflightsof steps. Thetowershadtwostories,withloop-holesandwindows; manyare stillentireexceptforthewoodenstagingwhichformedthefloorof theupperstory; theholesthe inwallfortheraftersarestillvisible. .TheN partoftheW.wall,ontheN.spursofMt.1'soriari, isintolerablepreservation;theS.partlessso.Themostinjured istheS.wall,inwhichthegatetowardsPhera?andthelower valleyofthePamisosmusthavebeensituated. Beyond thefortificationsthereislittleof interestamongthe extensiveandscatteredruinsofMessene;themostinteresting pointslietotheW.andS.ofMavromati. To theW.ofthevillagelietheivy-coveredruinsoftheTheatre, whichrestedonastonesubstructureandwascomparativelysmall, itsdiameterbeingonlyabout65ft.Behindthetheatreisawall withawell-preservedgatoandportionsofaflightofsteps. TotheS.W.ofMavromati,beyonda largeterraceonwhich stoodsomeimportantpublicbuilding,probablyatemple,liesthe Stadion.Althoughthis,tojudgebytheremains,wasoneofthe mostmagnificentstructuresofMessene,ithasbecomefilledupal mostbeyondrecognition,andisnowtraversedforitswholelength byasmallbrook.Acolonnadeboundeditonbothsidesandatthe upperend.TheotherendadjoinedtheS.wallofthe town. Only afewoftheremainingbuildingscanbeidentifiedwith theaidofinscriptionsandofthedescriptionsleftbyPausanias. ThepositionoftheMarket-Placeisindicatedbythestatement thatthemarket-fountainArsinotwasconnectedwiththeKlepsydra (p.351); wemustthereforelocatethiscentreofthemunicipallife InthespacenowcalledMousgaes,betweenthetheatreandthesta dion,wherethereareremainsofconduitsandfragmentsof a large water-tank.NearthemarketstoodtheGymnasiumandtheHiero- thysion,inwhichallthegodsoftheHelleneswereworshipped.The latteralsocontainedastatueofEpamiuondas,thetruefounderof thotown. Outside theruinedbutstilltraceablelinefortification of onthe S.,liesthevillageofSimfza,largelybuiltofantiqueblocks. FrokMessenetoMeligala.WedescendfromtheArcadianGate (p.851),viathevillageofNeochdriinl>/fhr.,orfromtheconventofVour- kano(p.348)bytheE.slopeoftheIthomehillinls/4hr.tothetripartite ifavrozoumenosBridge.HeretheriverAfavrozoumenos,theancientBalyra, uniteswiththestreamsdescendingfromthemountainstotheN.E.of the'upper'Messenianplain(p.291),toformthemainriverof Meseenia, thePamisosoftheancients,themodernPiniatzaorDipolamo('double river').Thefoundationsofthisbridgeareancient,thearchesmediirval. ItsN.W.armleadstoBogay.i(]>.363)andKyparissia(p.350);the N.E. armto(20min.)Meligala,p.358! to Phigaleia. DIAVOLITSI.48.Route.353 From Tsepheremini(p.348)therailwaygoesonvia(15'/2M.) Skalato— .18M Meligala(XenodocMontonXenon,withrestaurant,bed 2dr.),athrivingvillagewith1260inhah.,thehousesofwhichlie in awidecircleroundahillcrownedwithachapelofHagiosElias. FromMeligalatoMegalopolis,seep.291. The 'upper'Messenianplain(p.291)nowliesbeforeus.— 2OV2M.ZevgalatiiS;22»/2M.Kourtaga. 23'/2. M Diavolitsi,thepresentterminusoftheTripolitzaline, isalargevillagelyingattheW.baseoftheHelleniko. The Helleniko,alsocalledsimplyKastro,isaremarkableruin,which CurtiushasidentifiedastheremainsofAndania,theancientresidence oftheLelegseankings(p.349)andthebirth-placeofAristomenes.The mostancientportionisapparentlythesemicircularwalloflargeirregular blocksonthehighestpeak;thefinestportionisthatadjoiningitonthe S.,theconstructionofwhichapproachesclosetothesystemofhorizontal coursesandisprobablytobereferredtothetimeofEpaminondasrather thantothatofAristomenes.ThedomainsofAndaniaincludedacypress- grovecalled'Karnasion',inwhichfamousmysteriesofDemeterandKora werecelebrated.Alonginscriptionreferringtothisfactwasfoundnear thevillageofHagiiKonstantinoi. From DtavomtsitoPhigalIa,4hrs.'ride.Theplaincontracts ontheN.W.toanarrowvalley.Inthenorthernmostcornerofthe valleyliesthevillageotBogdzi,wheretolerablenight-quartersmay beobtained.WethenascendtothesaddlebetweentheTetrasi Group(p.315)andtheHagiosElias(3600ft.; totheW.).Fine retrospectoftheKontoVounia(p.354)andIthome.Beyondthe saddlewepasstotheleftofthemountain-villageofSirjiand traversefineoak-woods.InfrontofusistheravineoftheNeda, towhichwedescendbyasteepanddifficulttrack.Wecrossthe deepriver,flowingbetweenplane-treesandoleanders,andfollow therouteontherightbank,describedatp.312,toP&vlitza,which liesamongtheruinsofPh.iga.lta(p.313). 49.FromKalamata'toFhigaliavi&Fylosand Kyparissia. Thiss i ajourneyof3days.FikstDay.FromKalamatabyrailto Nisi,andthencetoPylot(Navarino),7Vihrs.—SecondDay.Visit SphakteriaandOldPylot,1/2day; fromthelagoonofOsmanagtttoPhiliatrd direct,in5s/*hrs.—ThibdDay.FromPhiliatratoPhigalia,8l/2hrs.— ThestagebetweenPylosandKyparissiamayalsobemadebySteamer (B. 45),especiallyastheroadalongtheflatcoastoffersfewattractions. TheBranchRaii/way(p.348)fromAsprdchomatoNisi(2*/2M. in*/*nr-; fares1 dr.40, 1dr.101.)intersectsthebroadstretches ofmarshonthebanksofthePamisos,crossesthatriver,andreaches (6M.fromKalamata)thelargevillageofNisi(Xenodochionalittle totheS.ofthePlatia),nowofficiallycalledMessene(6300inhab.). The Beidle-PathfbohNisitoVoubkano(p.348),8V2hrs.,leadsvia Ali-Jelebi,Vromovrysis,Aidini,andNaziri.—OrfromAi'diniwemay proceedviaAndrousatoBimitoand(41/2hrs.fromNisi)MavromatiXp.351). Androusa,a placeofsomeimportanceinthemiddleagesandstillof Baedeker'sGreece.2ndEdit. 23 354 Route19. PYLOS. FromKalamata considerablesize,hasa rainedcastleandachapelofHagiosQeorgios. Aboutl/tnr.totheleftoftheroad, fartheron,liesBamdri, withafine Byzantinechurch. TheroadtoPylos, passingthesilverpoplarsandcypresseson theW.sideof Nisi,firsttraversestheplainofthePamisos,crossing severalbrooksandsmallriversandcommandingafineviewofthe wholeMessenianGulf.Wefollowthedirectionofthetelegraph- wires,whichseldomdeviatefarfromthepath.Thelatterisstill rendered inconvenientatplacesbyroughTurkishpaving.Inl'^hr. aroad divergestothelefttothelittletownsofPetalidiandKorone, bothofwhicharevisibleontheW.coastofthegulf,theformerin frontonamountain-spur,thelattermoreinthebackground (comp. p.322).AtKarakasili,3/4hr.farther,in.aravinebesideamill, wefindagoodkhanwithafineorchard. About1 hr.farthertheroadbeginstomountmoresteeply, ascendingtheoak-coveredchainsofhills, whichstretchtothe S.fromAft.Lykddimo(3140ft.),theancientllathta,theprin cipalrangeoftheS.W.Peloponnesianpeninsula.TotheN.are theirregularmountainmassesgroupedunderthenameofKonto Vounia.Ataboutthehighestpointourroadisjoinedontheright bythatcomingfromAndrou6a,theshortestroutebetweenMessene andPylos(comp.p.353). In5hrs.fromNisiwereachtheKhanofOoubi(orKoum.be, dome;complainedof),oppositeapeakedsummitoftheHagiosElias group,alsoconspicuousfromPylos.Thewaterofthecopioussprings atitsbaseisconveyedbyaTurkishaqueducttothefortressofPylos. Theviewacrossthe beautifulbayofPylostotheIonianSeais seentoadvantagefromthispoint: totheleftarethemoderntown andfort; inthecentretherockyislandofSphakteria; totheright thepromontoryofKoryphasionorOldPylos; inthedistance,to theextremeright,theislandofPr6te.Pyloslies2'/4hrs.from thekhanofGoube".Thelastpartoftheroaddescendssomewhat abruptly. Pylos. —TwosmallXenodocMa,notfarfromthesquarefacingthe bay:thebetterbeingperhapsthatofChron6poulos,R.1-2dr.,tolerable fare; bargainingadvisable. SteamertoZakynthosandPutrasandtoKalamata,seeR.45. rPylos,o Navarino(tousethe mediaevalname),isnowlo callyknownasNetikastro(2130inh^b.).Itisthecapitalofan eparchy,andissituatedatthefootandontheslopeofprojecting a spurofAft.HagiosNiktilaos(1580ft.),ontheS.entrancetothe bayofPylos,whichisshelteredbythe longisland rockyofSphak teriaorSphagia. TheadmirablyshelteredbayofPylosseemsasthoughintendedto playanimportantpartinthehistoryoftheGreeks,whoareeverywhere directedtothe seabytheverynatureoftheircountry.Weaccordinglyfind itthecentreoftheflourishingkingdomofNestorintheheroicages(p.356). Butinhistoricaltimesthecoastbecamedepopulated.Thepolitical weaknessofMessenia,andthe aversionSpartafrom of tradeandshipping, preventedthedevelopmentofthe naturaladvantagesof thebay.Only to Phiyalia. SPHAKTERIA.49.Routt.355 once wasitthesceneofimportantevents.AtthebeginningofthePelo ponnesianWar,intheyear425B.C.,anAthenianfleetboundforSicily, actingonthefar-sightedadviceofDemosthenet,landedsomeofitsmenon thethenwhollyuninhabitedpromontoryofKoryphasion(p.356),in order tostiruptheMesseniansandsocarrythewarintotheenemy'scountry. ForthemomenttheSpartanarmywithdrewfromAttica,inordertounite withthefleetoftheotherPeloponnesiansinputtingstopto a theboldat tempt.TheAthenians,however,repulsedalltheattacksoftheLacedae moniansontheirentrenchments,andthelatterwereforcedtolimittheir operationstotheoccupationofSphakteria.TheAthenianfleetmean whilereturned,forceditswayintothehay,andannihilatedthePelopon- nesianships,thuscuttingoffthe 420Spartans,whowereontheislandof Sphakteria,withtheirHelots.Whenthenegotiationsforpeacefellthrough atAthensowingtotheeffortsof Kleon,theAthenians,assistedbymany Messenians,stormedthefortificationsoftheislandandcompelledthe garrisontosurrender.For15yearstheAthenians maintainedthemselves here.ThenPylosvanishesfromhistory,untiltherestorationofMessenian independenceinB.C.369(p.349)restoredittoitspositionastheportof Messenia.ItwasinthispositionwhenPausaniasvisitedit. During themiddleagesPylosfellbehinditstwoneighbours.Mo- don(p.321)andKorone(p.322).TheearliestfortificationoftheS.ap proachtotheharbonrisascribedtothewidow(d.after 1299)ofGuil- laumedelaRoche(d.1287).TheVenetianscalledtheplaceZonklon. ThenameNavarino*whichhas butrecentlypassedoutofuse,wasde rivedfrom someNavarresemercenaries,whosettledherein 1381('Cha teauNavarrois"1).TheTurkscapturedtheportin1498,anditremained intheirhandsuntiltheestablishmentofGreekindependence,exceptin 1644-48and1686-1715,whenitwasheldbytheVenetians,and1770,when theRussiansoccupiedit.In1821theGreeksmadethemselvesmasters ofthetown,butin1825theywereforcedtoretirebeforeIbrahimPasha, wholandedherewithastrongEgyptian-TurkishfleetanddevastatedMes seniawiththeutmostferocity.TheeventfuloccurrenceofOctober20th, 1827,whichendedtheGreekWarofLiberation,iswell-known.Admiral Codrington,incommandoftheunitedBritish,French,andRussianfleet ofobservation,haddemandedtheimmediateevacuationof theentire MoreabyIbrahimPashaandthewithdrawaloftheTurkishfleet.On thesedemandsbeingrefused,Codringtonenteredtheharbourwith26men- of-warand1270cannonandannihilatedthegreaterpartoftheTurkish fleetinbarely2hrs.Of82Turkishships,withabout2000guns,only29 remainedafloat.TheTurkslostabout6000men;theAllieshad172 killed,and470wounded. Aneasycarriage-road,passingnotfarfromthearchesofthe Turkishaqueduct(p.364),leadstothetopofMt.HagiosNikolaos andtotheentranceofthesmallfortressahovethetown.Thiswas rebuiltontheremainsofthemediaevalTurkishcastleofNavarino bytheFrenchMoreanExpedition,aftertheWarof Liberation,and isnowusedasaprison.Intheinteriorthereisamediaevalchurch, withacisternforusein casesiege. of Thenecessarypermittoenter mustbeobtainedinPylos; butthevisitishardlyworththetrouble, asthe*ViewofSphakteriaand OldPylosmaybeenjoyedfrom outside. The entrancetotheharbourisnotquite1M.wide.Theactual passagebetweenthemainlandandtherockyisletofDelikeibaba (socalledafteraTurkishtomb),lyingofftheS.endofSphakteria, isnamedtheMegaloThouro,andthesmall rockychannelonthe sidenextSphakteriaiscalledtheMikroThouro. The islandofSphakteria,whichhasalsoretainedtheclassic 23* 356 Routei9. OLDPYLOS.FromKalamata alternative nameofSphagia,isabout2'/2M.longandhasa breadth offrom500to1000yards.ItstretchestotheS.fromthepromon toryofKoryphasion(seebeelow),from-whichitisonlydividedby anarrowchannel,andlikeahugebreakwaterprotectsthedeepbay ofPylosfromthewavesoftheocean.Itsshoresareprecipitous, especiallyontheinner(E.)side.Betweenthetwochiefheightson the islandisahollow,withaspringandaChapelofthePanagoula (Panagfa),whichisthesceneofayearlyPanegyris.Thecampof theSpartansinB.C.425occupiedthisspot.Hencetheyretired towardstheN.summit,bravelydefendingthemselves,untilthe occupationofthe topbytheMessenianarchers,whohadreachedit bybye-paths,renderedfurtherresistanceuseless. TheinterestingExcursiontoOldPtlos,includingvisitto a Sphakteria,requiresabouthalf-a-day.Aswesailacrossthebay wehaveanopportunityofobservingtheshapeoftheislandof Sphakteria.Thelanding-placeisinthemiddleoftheE.side,ata breakinthesteepcliffs,whenceapathascendstothePanagoula Chapel(seeabove).Theboatsgenerallystop(usuallyonthere turn-journey)attheCaveofTzamadtis(xouTCapiaSou^07iT)Xia), ontheprecipitouscoast,farthertotheS.,andatthegraveofthe PiedmontesegeneralCountSantaRosa,who,liketheGreekcap tainTzamados,fellherein1825ina contestwiththeEgyptians underIbrahimPasha.—ThelowrockyisletofKouloneskiliesin theN.partoftheBayofPylos.Numerousfragmentsofshipwrecks, datingfromthebattleof1827,maystillbeseeuatthebottomof theseatotheE.oftheN.endofSphakteria. ThechanneltotheN.ofSphakteria,calledSykid,isonly 220yds.wide,andistooshallowtobeenteredbylargevessels. ThePyliansbelievethattheTurksfilledupthechannel,so asto leaveopenonlytheS.entrance,whichwascommandedbytheir cannon. Wenowlandonthesandy beachtotheE.oftheconspicuous AcropolisofOldPylos,whichiscrownedbyaVenetiancastle.Pylos wascalledKoryphasioninthehistoricalperiodofantiquityand Navarinointhemiddleages; sincethebuildingoftheS. castleit hasbeenknownasPalaeCkastroorPalaeo-Navarino.Apath,now nearlyovergrownwithshrubs,up leadsthegentleslopetothe summit(720ft.),whichconsistsofaroughplateauabout220yds. long,risingslightlytotheN.TheE.andW.sidesareprecipitous, andtheN.sidedescendsinsuccessivespurs.Theruinsofthe Venetiancastleareveryextensive.Flightsofstepsbythewallslead uptothe battlements,whichaffordafineviewofthesea.Wemay hereplace,probablywithperfectcertainty,thecastlewhichismen tionedbyHomerastheseatofNestorintheheroictimes; andhere theAtheniansentrenched themselvesin thePeloponnesianWar. RemainsofancientbuildingsarefoundnearthemiddleoftheS. castle-wall(afewregularrowsinthepolygonalstyle)andalsoon to PhigaUia. OLDPYLOS. 49.Route.357 theN.E.side.Thelastfragmentresemblesthestyleofthebuild ingsatMessene,andmayperhapsdatefromtherestorationofthe castleinthetimeofEpaminondas. ThefoundingofthefirsttownatPyloswasascribedtothesea-ruling Lelegae.AccordingtoStrabothetownlayatthefootthe of^galeon.This latternamewasatonetimeheldtomeantherangeofHagiosNikolaos (p.355),sothat thesiteoftheoldesttownwasidentifiedwiththatof modernPylos(p.354);butmostrecentgeographershavedecidedthatthe mountain-chaintothe N.(p.358)istheancientJSgaleon,sothatthecastle, celebratedinsomanylegends,mustbelookedforonthepromontoryad joiningtheN.entrancetothehaven.Apartfromatemporaryconquest oftheplainofthePamisos,thePyliankingdomofNeleusandNestor embracedtheentireW.coast-regiontothemouthoftheAlpheios.After theconquestofMesseniabytheSpartans,thetownsanktothecondition ofanunimportantcoast-village.Itevenlostitsoriginalname,forthe SpartanscalledthepromontorysimplyKoryphasion%or'highcastle'.The eventsofwhichthemountainwasthesceneinthePeloponnesianWar havebeennarratedabove. WemaydescendtheN.sideoftheAcropolisbyadifficultgoat- tracktothesmallshallowbaycalledVo'idokoil&i,or'ox'sbelly'. Astripofsandy beachdividesitfromthelargeLagoonofOs- managaontheE. This lagoonisconnectedbyseveralopenings ('Boukses')withtheBayof Pylos,andisfilledonceayearbythe sea,onwhichoccasionlargequantitiesoffisharecaptured.Itis probablethatinantiquitythesiteofthelagoonwasoccupiedbya stretchofsand.Evenasit iswecanunderstandtheepithet of 'sandy'withwhichPylosisusuallycouplediuHomer. AlittlewayuptheN.E.slopeoftheAcropolisweobservethe mouthof awideCavern, whichpassedinthetimeofPausanias forNestor'scattle-shed.Wepassthroughtwosmallerchambers intoaloftyvaultedspace,lightedfromabovebyafissureinthe rock,withfinestalactiteformations,resemblingsuspendeddrapery orskinsofanimals.OttfriedMiillersuggeststhatperhapsthisisthe 'cavenearPylos',inwhich,accordingtothemyth,thenewly-born HermeshidthecattlehehadstolenfromApollo,hangingupthe hidesoftwooftheanimals,whichhehadslaughtered.Alarge numberofmodemtravellershaveinscribedtheirnamesattheen trancetothecave,andthereisalsoanancientinscription.—No tracesnowexistoftheothersightsmentionedbyPausanias,such asthetempleofAthenaKoryphasiaandthehouseandgraveof Nestor. ThosewhointendtoproceedtoEyparissfa(p.359)immediatelyafter visitingOldPylosshouldorderthe horsestobewaitingontheroadtothe N.ofthelagoon(about2hrs.fromNewPylos),whichwereachin!/2br. byskirtingtheN.W.sidethe oflatter. FbomPilostoMessene(10'/2hrs.).TotheKhanofQovbi(2'/2hrs.) andtothe(1hr.)pointwheretheroadfromAndrousajoinsours,see p.352.WethenfollowAndrousa the roadtoO/2hr.)Arnautali,and traversethefinewoodsontheS.E.slopesoftheKontoYouni(p.354), crossingnumerouswater-courses.FromthevillageofLoghx(3V2 hrs.from Arnautali),wemayproceed(guidenecessary)bydirect forest-pathsvia Sdmari(p.354)to(3hrs.)Mavromati.Itis,however,surertofollow themainroadbeyondLoghiviaManesiandKato-DoulakUto(2hrs.)An drousa.ThencetoMavromati(p.351)2'/4hrs. 358 Route49. PHILIATRA.FromKalamata A frequentedroadrunsalongtheentireW.coastofthePelo ponnesusfromModon(p.321)toPyrgos(p.324)andontoPatras. FollowingthisalongtheshoreofthebayfromPylos,wereachin 1 hr.theKhanofOialova,wheretheproduceoftheneighbour hood(wine,currants,oil,andvaloniaorthefruitoftheQuercus jEgilops)isshipped.AboutV/%M.inlandliesthevillageofPyla, anameinwhichsomeseeareminiscenceoftheoldtown. nFarthero wepasstotheE.oftheOsmdnagaLagoon,fromthe N.sideofwhichdivergestheabove-mentionedroutetoOldPylos. At theKhanofBomanoH(goodnight-quarters),l'/4hr.from Gialova,wecrossthesmallriverofthesamename,alittlebelow thevillageofOem&naga.FineretrospecthenceofKoryphasion andOldPylos(p.356).Infront,the toleft,liestheisland of Prote(p.321). To theN.E.risesalongandlooselyarticulatedmountain-chain, whichrunsnearlyparallelwiththecoastatadistanceofabout6M. fromit.ThisisbelievedwithgreatprobabilitytobetheiEgaleon oftheancients(oomp.p.367).Theprincipalheightsarenow namedHagiaKyriake,HagiaVarvara,andPsychr6(seebelow). ThepromontoryofKoryphasionmaybeconsideredoneoftheS. spursof thisrange,whileitsnorthernmostheightbearsthecastle ofKyparissia(p.369).Withtheexceptionofaruggedchainof hillsnearthecoast,theentirecountrybetweenthe seaandthe iEgaleonisofgreatfertility.Plantationsofcurrantsandgroves of olivesspreadfarandwide.ThechiefplacesintheS.partofthe plainareLigoAdista(2660inhab.)andGargali&ni(5530inhab.). TheportofMarathosorMarathdpolis,destroyedbyanearthquake in1886,liesonourroute,about2'/2hrs.fromRomanou.Itcon tainsasmallbuttolerablerestaurant.Gargalianiis3/4 hr.inland; LigoudistaissituatedattheS.W.baseofjEgaleon. Theroadcontinuestoskirtthesea.Totheright,beyondthe iEgaleon,weseetheKontoVounia(p.354).Wecrossvariouswater courses,includingtheconsiderablestreamofLongobardo,andin l3/4hr.afterleavingMarathos,wereachtheinconsiderableportat thechapelofHagiaKyriake(steamboat,seep.321).Someancient ruins,whichformerlystoodhere,weresupposedtobethoseofErana. Acarriage-roadleadsfromHagiaKyriakethroughthecurrant- fieldsto(3/4hr.)Philiatra(*XenodochionTriphylia,withrestau rant,moderatecharges),7'/4hrs.fromNewPylos,a scatteredbut flourishingplace,withanewChurchofthePanagiaandseveral schools(includinga 'HellenfkonScholeion',orsecondarypublic school).Philiatrawasalmostcompletelylaidinruinsbyanearth quakein1887butithasbeeningreatpartrebuilt.Mostof theinhabitantsareengagedin theproductivecultivationofcur rants,beforewhichthecultivationofoliveshasgreatlyrecededin recenttimes. ThevillageofChrittidnrmorChristiantipolisliesabout2i/

Aba: 190. Ai'kli(Pheraalitis)225.Ambelaki114. Abia 349. Akakesion315. Ambelakia222. Acarnania30. Akidalia,spring194. Amblema,Pasaof151. Aclmia, orAchica28.239Akontion,lit.193. AmbracianGulf32. Akraphia186. Ambryaoa159. — , EpanoandKato-322Akrata(near-Sgion)239.Ampelia,Plainof210. Acharnee118. —, the(Krathia)239. Ampelidna315. Achelooa31. 32. Akritas822. Ampelokfpi121. Achinc5(Echinos)204.Akrotiri,Kayo15. Ampheia291. Achlidi214. Akte110. Amphiaraoa,Springof- Achladokampos268. Aktion14. 269. AchmedAghi212. Akyphas151. Amphiareion,the181. AcroceraunianPromonAlai-Bey284. Amohikleia(Amphikaea) tory14. Alalkomenaa164. Aero-Corinth234. Alamanna,Bridgeof202.Amphiaaa151. Actiam14. Alepochori272. Amyklac284. Adrasteia,spring241.Alesion293. Amykleeon283. .lEdepaoa213. Aletria206. Amymone.spring269. JEd6a,Statueofthe285Alffaka221.223. Amyroa219. Mgse212. jAli-Jelebi(Elis)323. Analipsis9. ^Egaleon,Mt.358. — (Messenia)291.353.IAnapblyatos135. -i208. Andravfda323. 126. — Proaeoa,T. of213.Arsakion94. Apion309. 214. ArtemisAriatoboule90. Apollo,Templeof,at —Soteira,T.of313. — Brauronia64. Ab«e196. Artemiaion214.343. Asklepieion55. ,ta Bassee310. Asea388. AthenaErgane,Sacred ,ta Deloa143. Asimakia285. Enclosureof65. ,ta Delphi155. Asine(Korone)322. — Nike,Templeof59. —Maleotas, TempleofAsklepios, Templeof — Parthenos,stata«of 245. (Epidauroa)244. 68.100.lxxxiv. —Parrhasios,Templeof]Askra167. —Polias,Templeof74. 308. Aslan-Aga348. — Promachos. statue — Ptoos,Templeof186,Aameni_213. of65. H.Apdstoli,ChapelofAaomitonConvent121.Attalos,atatuesof76. the near ( Leuktra)170.Asopoa, the(Vourieni)Bank,National92. —,Church(Leondari)287.151. 170.174.etc. Barathron90. Arachnsoon244. , Gorgeofthe201 Bazaar,theNew94. Arachova(nearDelphi)Asphalatho243. —, theOld81. 159. Aspledon192. Belvedere76. —(inArcadia)301 AspraNera313. Beule"Gate58. — (inLaconia)268 AspraSpftia,nearDelphiBotanicalGarden107. Arakli13.130. (Antikyra)159.34. Boule92. Arak>nthos28. —near, Olympia304. Bouleuterion86. Araphen134. Aspro,Kavo14. Brauronion64. Arapia,the 314. 316. Asprochoma348. BritiahSchool37.47. Arapochtfri193. AaprogeVaka19. Bronzes,Coll.of96. Arapokephala,Mt.32. Asproniai3. CavalryBarracks104. Araxoa,Cape320. AaproPotamo(Acheloos)Cemeteries50.51. Arcadia270. 28. Ceramicua37. Arcadia1(Eypariaaia)359 Assos21.238. Chalkotheka76. Archampolia210. Asteri123. Chem.Institute9)3. Arene349. Aaterion,the257. Churches: Arepolis364. Asteris26. H.DionysioaAreio- Arethuaa,, spring(Ithaka)Astros266. pagita 57. 34. Astypaleea,Cape135. Kapnikareea81. (Euhoea)206. Atalante191.216. H.Konatantinos94. Argentiera(Efmoloa)AthamantineField186. 106. Argili359. H.Athanasios(Eira)315. Metropolis80. Argolia2.349. —, Cape26. —, Small80. —, Bayof248. —, Khanof(nearArachoH.Nikomedes47. Argoa254. va) 159. PanagfaGorg<5piko80. Argoatoli16. Athena34. —Spelidtissa55. Aria247. Academy106. H.Theodoras92. Aristonautre239. —ofScience93. English47. Arkas,Tombof301. Acropolis57. RomanCatholic 92. \rkitaa191. Agree51. Correction,Houseof47. INDEX. Athens: Athens: Athens: Demarchia94. Lysikrates,Monument]PolytechnicInstitute H.Demetri08Loumbar- of61. 94. daris, chapelof91. H. Marina89. Post Office36. Dexileos,MonumentoflMarketGate82. Propylaea62.lxxxvii. 88. 1 Market-place86. Prostomieeon74. Diogeneion82. MegalePanagfa,chapelProtestantCemetery50. Diomeia87. 81. Prytaneion86. Dionysos.Theatreof52 Melite37. BailwayStations34. 86. Dipylon87. Metroon86. RomaandAugustus, —, StreetofTombsMinisterialOffices80. fTempleo 76. outside the88. 92 Rizarion121. Ecoled'Athenea94. Muller's,Ottfr.,GravelSacredBand,monu EducationOfftce80 106. ! ment104. EnglishChurch47. MunicipalOffices94 —, Way107. Enneakrounos(Kallir-Museion91. Schliemann'sHouse92. rhoe)61. Museum,Acropolis77.| Schliemann,Monument Erechtheion72. f—, o theAxcheeologi-of51. ErinyesorEumenides,calSociety94. Socrates,Prisonof92. fShrineo the57. — , Egyptian99. Stadion50. ExhibitionBuildingsf—, o theHistoricalj— Bridge50. 47. andEthnologicalSo StoaofAttalos83. Fig-Tree,Holy114. ciety97. — Eumenia55. FrenchSchool94. —f, o MycenianAnti-]—f o Hadrian81. Frog'sMouth108. quities98. —f o theGiants84. Gregorios,ofthe Statue— , National97. Streets: Patriarch93. —f. o NaturalHistory|Boulevarddel'Unl- GrottoofApolloHyp- versite 38.92. akreeos59. — , Patisia=NationalRued'AthentS94. —f o Pan59. Museum. —o d Byron52. GymnasiumofHadrianNeapolis38. — Constantin94. 81. NikeApteros,Temple— d'Eole38.81. f—o Ptolemy83. of 59.lxxxviil. — d'Hermes38. 80. Hadrian,Archof48. NovseAthena;37. 48. —e d Patisia94. Hadrianopolis48. Nymphs,Hillofthe90. —u d Piree94. Herodes,Graveof50. Observatory90. —u d Stade38. 92. HillofMars58. Odeion94. TelegraphOffice36. —f o theMarket84. —f o HerodesAtticusTheatres36.94. History38. 55. Themistokles,Tombof Horol6gionofAndro-f—o Perikles52. 110. nikos81. Olympieion48. Theseion84. Hospitals92.xxix. OphthalmicHospitalThrasyllos,Monument Ilissos, the37. 51. 92. of55. Kallirrhoe51. Palace,Royal47. Tombs,Streetof88. Raraiskakis,Monu —f otheCrown-PrinceToweroftheWinds81. mentof108. 47. H.Trias,chapel88. Kephisos,the108. PalaceGarden47. University93. Kerameikos37.84. PaleeontologicalCabi Valerian,Wallof84. Kimon, Tombof91. net93. Vases,Collectionof95. —, Wallof76. Pandroseion74. xc. King'sHall57.86. ParliamentHouse92 Varvakion94. Klepsydra59. Parthenon65.lxxxiv.Zappeion47. Koile37. Patisia119. Athena.Templeof(/Egi- Kollytos37. PharmaceuticSchoolna) 138. Kolonos106. 93. —, —(Sunion)133. — Agorreos37. 84. Phildpappos,Monu— Alea,Templeof272. — Hippios106. mentof91. — Kisseea,—244. Kydatheneeon37. H. Photinos,chapel51.j —Kyparissia.—369. Lenormant'sGravePhysiciansxxviii.— Sai'tis,—268. 106. oPlaced laConstituAthenieon288. Library93. tion38.46. Athene(Anthene,Antha- Limnse37. Concorde38.94. na)266. Lykabettos105. Pnyx,Hillofthe90.Athikia241. 364 INDEX. Athmonon120. Bouchovitsi234. Chdnlka257. Athos,Mt.168. Boudonitza198. Chordmi314. Atrax223. iBoudoros,the212. Chorsia166. Atreus, Treasuryof259.Boulla224. Chosia166. Atros19. Boupraaion323. Christianou(Chrifltiano- Attica107. Boura(Mamousia,Idra)polis) 358. Atzikolo302. 300. Chryso152. Aulis181. 181. Bourzi249. Chrysovitsi302. Aulon360. Brahami134. Colonna,Cape132. Avg6239. Bramagas195. Corcyra6. Avlakl203. Brauron128. Corinth232. Avlona127. Brenthe306. , Gulfof33.150. Avlonari211. Brilessos(Pentelikon)Isthmusof236. Avriokastro192. 122. Corfu(Kerkyra)5. Ayanl,GreatandLittleBrindisi4. Crete1. 223. Brouma325. 8. Croce,Monte(8tavro Vouni)10.11. Bab*221. Oabiri, SanctuariesoftheCyclades3. Babyka278. 146. 65. 1 Bachouni272. Cabrera321. Badi 158. Bajeraki139. Cadmeia176. Dalamanara254. Bakrina221. Calypso,Island13. ofDamala248. Balamoutli221. CamoounianMts.215.Daonklf,Lakeof230. Balyra,the352. 360.227. Baphni.Convent115. Banitza(Panitza,Ina-Canone9. Daphnoudi,Eavo15. chos)242. 251. |Caryie272. Daphnus191. Bardana160. CasaInglese(Mnos)18.Darimari175. Bardounochoria284. 19. Daseee314. Barlaam.spring222. Castalian Fountain154.Daskalid129. Basilis305. Cenchrea236. — (Mathitario)25. Busk312. Cephalonla(Kephallenfa)Daulis160. —, Templeof310. iDavia(Meenalos)302. Basta348. Cephissus,seeKephiaos.—. the302. Bathyllos,the290. Cerigo (Kythera)263. Davlia160. Bazaraki(Larymna, inChferonea161. 8. Deca,Monte10. 11. Bceotia)190. Chalandri122. Ded(!-Bey290. — (inthe PlainofKopais)Chalia185.190. Degaletou19. 192. Chaliotata21. Degles196. Bedenaki295. Chalkis205. Dekaleia121. Bedeni291. —, Mt.30. Delihassan314. Bei127. Chania283. Delikeibaba366. H.Belbina( Georgios)2 Chaon268. Delioh181. 134. Charadros(Xerfas)242. Delos(MikraDilos)142. Belemlna(Belmina)286.254. Delph,Mt.211. Belesi(ontheEryman-Charani (Kynortion)245.Delphi152. thos)304. Charchambolis210. Delphoussa(Eerna)106. — (ontheKephisos)197.Charvati(Marathon)124Demerli226. Benizze11. (Mycenee)242. 258.Demeter, TempleoffPhi- Bervaka257. Chasia118. gale(a) 311. Bianco,Capo14. ChassidiariMts.225. —2^earThennopylss) Bisbardi196. Cheli248. Biskeni197. Chelia12. Demetrias217. Bliouri(Pamisos),the]Cheliadou190. H.Demetrios(inMesse- 227. Chelmos(Arcadia)298. nia)322. Bochdrf30. —(Laconia)286. — (nearOrchomenos) Bogazi353. Chelona247. 195. Bogdana196. Chelonatas321. —(nearSparta)285. Boibd219. Chetousa295. — Karakala,convent247. Boibeis,Lake219. Chiliomodi241. Dendra(Argolis)257. Boion151. Chlembotsari183. —(Bceotia)170. BolCta288. Chlemoutzi321. — (Locris) 190. Boreion272.288. Chlomos192. DenthelicTerritory2S3. Botsika296. Chodra,Kavo3. Dereli221. INDEX. 365 Dervenaki,Pass242. Dragon Houses209. Epano-Li6sia118. 148. Derveni(Makriplagi)290.Drakata21. —Kastelli151. —, nearMgiiin239. Drakospelia199. — Rouga317. —Pass198. Drameai181. Epbyra233. — tesMamousias301 Dritsa184. Epidaaros(Epfdavra)243. Derveno-Salesi175. Dronkarati21. —, Hieronof244. Dervish-Jelebi324. Drouva346. —Limera262. Dervouni315. Dryas,201. the Episkopi,Paleeokastro Despoina,Templeof315.Drymos175. 211. Deukalion216. Dyme322. Epitalion319. Dexia22. Dyrevmata211. Erana35S. Diagon,the304. Djstos208. Eraafnos(Argolis)268. Diakcjptika239. (Arcadia)299. Diana,Templeof(nearlEchinos204. (Laconia)284. Anlis) 184. Eetioneia(penin.)110.Erchomenos(Orchorae- Diaphorti307. Kira316. nos)294. Diaplo13. EleeonSmerlfna) ( 316.Ercole,Monte(Arakli)13. Diaporia139. Elteus264. Eremdkastro169. Diavatiki(Lecheeon)234.Eleeussa135. Eretria206. Diavolitsi353. Elaphonisi(Onougna-Ergastiri,Bayof130. Didyma249. thos)263. Eridanos,123. the Dilinata21. Elateia197. Erikousi(Merlera)13. Dillsi181.209. Elatia221. Erineos151. Dimastos,Mt.142. Elatids (Kithferon)175. . the240. Dimini218. 107. lErisso,penin.of21. Diminic5238. Elato Vouno(JJnos)19Erymanthos,the304. 346. Dimitzana(Theutisf)302.ElefaEleon324.(Heleon)184. —, Mt.(Olonos)323. 346. Dion223. 30. Dionysias,spring359.Eleusis115.148. ErythrffiEttosEua348.124.175. DipKa302. Eleutherte175. Dipotamo(Pirnantsa,Pa-]Eleutherios,the257. misos)352. Eleutherochc5ri223. Eubffia —,_Mt.2267.04. Dirphys(Delph)204. Elevsis115.148. Distomo159. H.Elevtherios(pass)19Eurotas,Euripos,Euenos (Phidari)the184.(Iri,30.205.Niri) Divri346. H.Elias(jEgina)139. DobroutshiHills223. (Argolis)242.244.251 Dokimion32. 258. 274. Dokos248. — (Boeotia)190. Eutresis170. Doliand267. — (Euboea)202. 210.211Eva265. Domata17. — ((Mykonos)Messenia)353.142.360.Evangelistriaconvent) ( Dombrfiena166. 167. DomokiotikoPotami230.— (nearPheneds)296.— (Tenos)141. Domok6230. (Pyrgoi)324. H.Evphimia21. DontiaCliffs160. (Salamis)114. Evreeonisi150. Donussa239. (nearSolos)297. Evrostina239. Doro,Kavo(Kaphareus)l(Taygetos)281. Exarcho196. 210. — (VerenaMts.)273. Uxor25. Ddrousa243. EH6poulos126. DouanafErymanthos)304.Elis323. FallowField,the(near Doudourvana(Akontion)] Elymbo(Olympos)135. Mantinea)293. 193. —(Skordi)135. Fano(Othonus)13. Doukades12. Elvmbos(Olympos),Mt.Fiume4. Doukato,Kavo(Leu-215. Franko Limani130. cadianBock)15. Elymifa294. Frankovrysis288. Doulichion21. Enipeus, the(nearOlym-, Khanof288. Doumena300. pia)324. DounaSpring313. — (inThessaly)223.225.|Oagia 211. Douneika324. Epaktos33. ai'daronisi,island(near Dourdouvana296. Epaminondas,Graveof Laurion)215. Drachmani197. 292. -,—(nearSyros)8. Dragdi312. Epano-Acbaia322. -,penin.(Euripos)191. —, the316. |—Agtfryani157. iGai'on14. Dragomano306. —Garouna11. IGalatte(Zachlorou)300. 366 INDEX. Galaxfdi31.150. Gourzouli,Billof292.Hippokrene,spring168. Gallo,Kavo(Akritas)1.Gonvia,Raviqeof269.Hiaticea213. 322. Gouyava,spring229. Homarion(nearMeioai Galtzades(Teletrios)204.Gouydza295. 239. Gardiki (Messenia)291-Govino12. Hoplites,the164. —(Theaaaly)204. Grambiaa210. Hormina323. — , Paleeo-(Pelinnfieon)GrammCnePetra282.HosiosLonkaa(nearPa- 224. Granitsa,Mt.166. tisia)120. Gargaliani368. Gravia151. , convent(nearDiato- Gargaphia,pring172. S Gre'ka309. mo)159. Gargettos123. Gremida183. Houngra186. Giirito (Karitos,GargetGremka309. Hyampeia153. tos)123. Grisata20. Hyampolis196. Garouna,Anano-11. Grouspa,Lakkos17. Hydra248. Gastouni323. Gyaros(Gioura)8. Hyettos190. Gastouri10. Gynsek6kastro(Proerna)Hyle185. Gastritzi(Plataniston),229. Hymettos123. 314. Gypht6kaatro(Bleu-Hypaton(Sagmatas)180. H.Georgios,Pal£e6kaatrotherffi) 175. Hyperia,spring219. of(Arcadia)307. Gftheion263. Hypsoiis302. —, castle(Cephalonia) Hyrmine323. 17. Hadji-Amir229. HysiEC(Argolis) 289. — ,convent(Eubcea)212.Hadjilari221. —(Bceotia)175. —,—(nearGranitsa)166.Hagiorgitika270. —, —(nearMalesina)190.Hagios213. Idra (Boura)303. —,—(nearPhon(a)296.Halee190. Ieraka124.128. —,island(Belbina)2.131.Haliakmon223. , Kavo262. —,—(nearSalamis)113.Haliartos164. Ikaria126. —, village(nearKemea)|Halike249. Ilissos, the37.123.109. 242. Halimos134. Inachos(Panitza)242. Georgitsi286. Halos216. 254. Gertestos210. Hamaxikf(Levkas)14.Iolkos218. GerakarM27. Harma119. H. Ioanne3(Hera?a)304. Geraneia149. Harmyropo'tamo209. , Khanof(nearKypa- H.Gerasimoa18. Harpat;ion212. rissia)360. Gerokomi6,convent30.Hassan-Tatar221. —, villages(inLaconia) Gerdnteion295. Hekale,Demos126. 265. 267.281. Geronthrse275. Helena(Makronisi)132. Kynigds123. Gerotzakouli124. Heleon(Eleon)184. IonianIslands7. Ghelanthi227. Helicon167.160. [Ipsili136. Gherali181. Helike301. Iri(Niris,Eurotas)274. Gherli(Yerelf)219. Helisson, the(Arcadia'lamenios.Hill180. Gialova,Khanof358. 301. Isthmia236. Ginossi182. —(nearSikyon)238. Istone11. S.Giorgio12. Hellada(Spercheios),the: |lt(Sa(Salona)34.150. Gioura(Gyaros)3. 201. (near Patras)322. Glaphyrre219. Hellenika214. Ithaka(Ithakr)22. Glarentza(Kyllene)320Hellenikon210. Ithome350.287. Glaukonnesos209. Hellenitza,the287. —(nearPhanari)227. Glaukos(Levka)322. Helos,Plainof284. Glisas180. HeraAkrfea150. 238.Jeraka 121. 128. Glypho13. Hersea(Arcadia)304. Jereli219. G61os,Kastro217. — (Kastro,Oxopholia)314.Jerusalem,convent158. Gomphi227. Herseon(Argolis)257.H.Joannes,seeH.Ioan- Gonnos221. Herakleia(Argolis)241.nes. Gorgylos(Varaka)273.— (Locris)202. Kabrera322. Gon'tza217. — (Theesaly)223. KachaJes,the197. Gortynios802. Herkyna,the162. Keemeni146. Gortya302. Hermidne248. Ksenepolia264. Goube",Khanof354. Hermoupolis140. Krenourio191. Goulaa187. Hestiseotis220. Ksesariani123. Gounarianika297. Hexamilia240. Kaiapha318. Goura296. Hierdn(Epidauros)244.Kakaletri315. INDEX. 367 SakeSkala(SkironianKapareli(Bffiotia)171.Eatapodata20. Cliffs)149. Kaphareua(EaroDoro)Eatavothne187. 188. Vdtheias206. 210. 270. 94. 2 295. Eakoliri211. Kaphyffi295. Eaterlni223. Eako-Salesi182. Kapttena(Chferonea,injEatoAchaia 322. Kako.M166. Boeotia)161. Agdryanl157. Ealabaka228. —(Thessaly)219. [—DoulakH357. Ealagonia277. Kapsala — Eastelll151. Kalauiaki(nearCorinthHKapsia294. — Li6sia148. 236 Kara134. — Pigadi259. — (nearLivadia)164.Earababa184. 205.— Bonga317. — (inThessaly)223. Earadag224. — Soiili128. Kalamas14. Earadja-Ahmet225. Souvala158. Kalamata(Ealamte)347.Earakouzi324. Zarouchla296. Ealami(inBoeotia)104.Earali-Derveni223. Eatochi31. —(inMessenia)348. EaraMoustapha316. Eatopteuterios159. Ealamii359. Earamoutzi(Helicon)Eatramonisi135. Ealamrts181. 166. Eatsingri247. Ealaskope(Elis)323. Earavassara33. Eavaliani209. Kalauria(Poros)247.Eardakl9. Kavassila323. 139 Eardama324. Kea(Eeos,Tzia)3. Ealavryta299. 316.Earditsa(Tbessaly)226.Kekryphaleia(Angistri) Ealeilco316. Earditsis227. 136. 243. Ealcntzi127. Earditza(Boeotia)186.Eelephina(CEnus)268. Kalikiopoulo9. Earia,castle 149. 273. KaHtza324. Earitos(Garito,Gar-Eenchrese(nearCorinth) Ealftzeua316. gettos)123. 236. Kallidona318. Earkalou303. — (inArgolis)268. Kailidromos199. Karla,Lake219. Pyramidof268. Kalligata17. Earnion(Xerillas)287. Eeos(Eea, Tzfa)3. EalliphoneMts.346. Karter61i302. Eephalari268.120. KalogeroVouni288. Karv(51i282. Eephale,Deme129. Ealogria,Cape(Araxos)|Earvounaria(Asopos),Eephal^Cape264. 28.320. the 202. Eephallenia15. Ealonero300. Earya195. Kephalovrysis32. Kalopodi196. Earyee272.15. —, spring268. Ealpaki294. Karytes(Arcadia)307.Eephalous,Paleeokastro Kalydon30. Karystos209. of (Halos)216. Ealyvia129. 135.148 Karytffina306. 306.Eephisia120. 157. 22. 332. Easa,Khanof175. Eephisos,the2.37.108. — Dolianitika285. Easarmi247. 120. 187. 193. — Meligitika266. Kasfmi305. Eeramoli135. Samara11. Kaskavcli169. Eerasia,spring307. Kamarse240. Kasnesi16D. Kerata148. Eamaresa131.135. Eassotig,spring156. Keratea129. Eamari239. Eastania286. Keratopyrgoa112. Eamatero118. Eastelltcs212. Eerazini112. Kambia211. EastrSki(I.aconia)266.Kerba,Khanof165. Kaminia322. — (Marathon)126. Kerchnefie(Eenchrelc) Eamnitza,the(Peiros)— touPhonfskou247, 268. 324. Kastravoli211. Keressos167. 169. Eanalia219. Kastri(Boeotia)189. Keri27. Kanathos,spring261. —(Euboea)212. Eerinthos214. Kanavari(Thespios),tin— (Laconia)267.286.EerkiStion(Pindos)227. 165. —(Phocis)152. K^rkyra(Corfu)6. Eandili Mountains(Ma-— (Poros)248. Kerna(Delphoussa)156. kistos)212. Eastro(Hereea)314. Kerpinl299. Kanethos205. —(Cephalonia)18. Eerfkeion183. Eantharos(Harbourofl— (Kalavryta)299. Eeryneia239.301. Pirseus)110. EastroMoreas33. Eerynites239.SOL. Kantza128. — Roumelias83. Khan20. Eapandriti181. Eatakolon321. Eiato238. Eaparifli(Arcadia)272.Eataphygia297. Eierion226. 368 INDEX. Kililer 219. Kopai's, Lake187. Kranioi17. Kfmolos(Argentiera)3.KopanosBridge274. Krannon221. Kiona210. Korakiana13. Krathis239.296. Kionia296. Korak61itho160. Kravari(Boreion)272. —, Mt.150. Korakovouni,the241. 288. Kirphis34. 15J. Korax,Mt.240. Kremidi, Cape262. Kirrha150. Korissia,Lakeof11. Kresion288. Kissavos(Ossa),Mt.215Koroebos,Tombof304.Kressida10. 221. Koromili174. Krestena309.320. Kisserli221. Koron,Gulfof1.322.KreusiS174. Kithrcron(Elatiaa),Mt.Korone(Asine)322. Krevatas,Khanof273. 107. 71. 1 176. Koronea164. Kriaria186. Kitros223. Kor6ni246. Kriekouki(nearOlym- Kireri(Argolis)262.265.—, Cape129. pia) 324. — (Boeotia)166. Koropi128. (nearThebes)175. -,the264.265. Korseia190. Krios,the239. Kladeos,the325. Kortiki223. Krissa150.152. Kleniccs241. Korydallos2.112. KrissesanGulf34. Kleonie(Argolis)241.KorykianGrotto157.Kritzini224. —(Bceotia)196. Koryphasion, promont.Krokcre284. Klepsydra,spring351 of321.356.357. Kromitis_290. Klidi,pass319. Koryphe,Mt.239. Krommfon150. Klimaktc212. Kotiki,Lakeof323. Kromnos290. Klinitza,Mts.302. Kdtilion310. Kromof290. Klisoura,pass(jEtolia)Kotroni246. Kryavrysis,Khansof 32. Kotylseon,Mt.208. 273. —(Laeonia)273. K6tziakas(Kerke"tion), the316. Klokoto224. 227. Kryologon,spring222. Klokova(Taphiaasos)26Koukoura,Passof166.Kry6nera,spring359. Kloukintes297. Koukouriza12. Kryonero32. Knakion,the278. Koukouvaones120. Kryopegadi(Hippo- Knemis,Mt.191. Kouloneski356. krene),spring168. Kokkali,Hillof188. Koulougli325. Kryovrysis,spring298. Kokkini12. Kouloumi(Pass)20. Krypsana,cave157. Kokkini-Loutza273. Koulouri114. Ktenia,Mts.269. Kiikkino186. Koumasi(Bathylloa)290.Ktypas(Messapion)180. Kokkinomilia212. Koumbc(Goube),KhanKyllene(Elis)323. Kokkinou,katavothra of354. (Glarentza)320. 188. Koumboulces312. —(Ziria)239. Kokkinovrachos(Opus)Koumi211. Kylloupera,spring123. 191. Koumitis,Mt.192. Kyme211. Kokkoni238. Koundoura,KhanofKynfetha299. Kokla(Platffia)171. 175. Kynortion245. —, Khanof(Messenia)Kounoupeli323. Kynos191. 360. Kourbatsi213. Kynoskephala;224. — , Palteokastroof(Am-1Kourmeti265. Kynosoura112.124. pheia)291. Kourounioii307. Kynosoureis278. Kolias,Cape134. Kourtaga287. Kynouria266. Kolokotronis240. Koutra(Koutrffis)360.Kvnthos,Mt.(Delos)146. Kolonnscs,Cape(Sunion)316. Kyparlsio191. 132. Koutsi257. Kvparissia(Arcadia)321. Kondini,Mt.308. Koutsomati242. "359. KondraPsili135. Koutoumoua(Bosotia) —(Messenia)305. Kondreva288. 166. Kypriano131. Koniditza286. I— (Euboea)208. Kyra243._ Konistra'S211. Koutzochero223. H. Kyriake(Messenia)10. H. Konstantinoi353. Koutzop6di242. 283.58. 3 H.Konstantinos(Daph-Kouvelo(Arcadia)312.Kyrirene,Palffiukastroof nus)191. —(Malis)202. (Pleuron)81. Kontokali12. Kouveltzi228. Kyrtone190. Konto Vouni(PeloponKramvovos307. Kythera(Cerigo)1.262. nesus)354. Kranae265. Kythnos134. Kopffi 191. Kraneion234. Kytinion151. INDEX. 369 Laconia274. Levetsova284. Lyk(5aoura314. LaconianGulf1. Levfdi 294. Lymax(gorge)313. Lada282. Levka (Glaukos)322. Ladas,Tombof285. — (nearSparta)284. Machala309. Ladon,the304. 325.Levkas(Hamaxikf)14.Madara,Mt.(Tbauma- Lagonisi(Elseussa)135.Levke25. sion) 302. Lakmon215. LeVkimo, Kavo(LeuMcenalon,Mt.294.301. Lakoncs13. kfmme)8.14. Meenalos302. Lakfthra17. Levsina(Eleusis)115.Mageiria285. Lala299.346. Lezini,Harshof31. Magoula(Bosotia)150. LalantaeanPlain206.Liatani182. — (nearSparta)277.280. Lalioti,the(Selleeis)238.Libanovo223. Magouliana304. Lamfa202. LichadianIslands216.Mahmoud-Be"y284. Lamptrre (Lamvrika)135.Ligoudista358. Maiden'sSpring,the299. Landsoi'325. Ligourio246. Maina(Mani)263.1. LangadaGorge282. Likeri,Lake185. Makaria348. Lapatses198. Lilrea167. | —, spring128. Laphystion(Mt.Granitsa)Limeni264. Makistia319. 166. Limera262. Makistos,Mt.(Euboea)204. Lappa323. Limiko,Valleyof127.— (Peloponnesus)318. Lari,the182. Limnffi278. Makriplagi,Mt.(Gera- Larisa(nearArgos)256.Limn8ea(Karavaasara)33.neia) 149. —(Acbaia)320. Limnseon223. i—, Khansof287. 290. Larisos,the323. Limne212. Makronisi132. Larissa(Thessaly)219.Liopesi128. Makrychori221. LarissaKremaste204.Lipsus (JEdeps6s)213.Makrysia309.320. Lamms(Larymna)189.Lithada(penin.)213. Malathria223. Larmena209. Litochori223. Malea,Cape1.262. Larymna189. Livadi(Arachova)157.Malesa182. Larysion263. Livadi,Gulfof(Argo-Malesina190. Las275. stoli) 15. Malevalese183. Laspochori^22. Livadia(Lebadeia)162.Malevo,Mt.(Parnon)267. Lasteika324. LivaditikaKerata162.Mali(.fligaleon)359. Latomeion219. Livadustro(Oer6e),theMamousia300. Laurion130. 171. Mana(Larisos)323. Lavda(Theisoa)307. — Bayof174. Mandianika212. H.Lavra,convent299.Livanateea191. Mandra175. Lazarbouga225. Livathd17. Manesi357. Lebadeia(Livadia)162.Lixouri18. Mani(Maina)1.263. Lecheena323. Loghi357. Manolada323. Lecheeon234. Longanfko286. Mantinea292. Lechonia216. Longo309. Mantoudi214. Lechouri346. Longobardo,the358. Marathia24. Lechova,the23S. LongoPotamo,the238.Marathon124. 127. Lefta197. Lopesi346. Marathonisi(Gytheion) Leibethrion,Mt.166. Lophis, the164. 1.263. Leivastri346. H.Lougoudis,spring(Kranae),263. Leondari287. 359. Marathopolis358. Leonfdi262. Loukdri198. Marathos358. Lepanto(Naupaktos,Loukou,convent265.H.Marina(Bosotia)197. Epaktos)33. Lousios(Dimitzana)302.—, Bayof139. Lepreon317. Lousoi(Soudena)299.Mariolates151. Lerna,spring(Amy-Loutraki236. Maritza,convent324. raone)269. Loutro(Koroneia)164.Markopoulo(Attica) 128. Lessa247. Ludias223. Marmara,Sta149. Lestes166. Lykabettos,the105. MarmaroMts273. Lestenitza(Enipcus)324.Lykaeon.Mt.307. Marousi120. Lethseos,the227. Lykeri157. Martino190. LeucadianRock15. Lykoa301. Mases249. Leukas(Levkas)14. Lykodimo,Mt.(Mathia)Masklena269. fcLeukfmme(KavoLe> 354. Matanan,Cape(Teenaron) kimo). 8 Lykone,Mt.256. Leuktra170. Lykoporia239. Mathia,Mt.354. BaedbkkiTsGreece.2ndEdit. 24

370 INDEX. Mathitario(Daskalio)25.Mesovouni21. iMoustds,Swamp266. Sta.Maura(Leukas)14,Messana (Messene)350.[Mouzaki248. MavraJLitharia239. Messapion(Etypjis)180.|Movri,Mts.323. Mavria307. Messene343.35&. Munichia111. Mavrikiotis240. Messenia,Capeof1. Muses, Valleyofthe Mavrodilisi181. Messinai. (Helicon)167. Mavromati(Messene)351Metaxata17. Mycenee258. — (Arcadia)312. 316.Mett'ora,MonasteriesoflMykalessos184. — (Boeotia)165. 22S. Mykonos141. MavroVouni(KynoskeMethana(penin.)243.247.Mylse148. phala?) 224. 139 Myli(Argolis)268. — (Ossa)215. 219. Methone(Modon)321 Myrrhinous129. HavroVouno(Salamia)jMethouridse.the139. Myrtia324. 136. Methydrias304. Myrtiotissa,convent12. Mavrozoiimenos(Balyra),Methydrion294. 304.Mytika291. the359. 360. Metopi136.243. —Bridge352.360. Metropolis227. Naupaktos33. Mazeika298. Metzovo229. Nauplia (Nauplion)249. Mazi(Attica)175. Midea257. Navarino(Pylos)354. — (Boeotia)165. Midgalaki,spring 168356. 21. 3 —, PalBeokastroof(Ha-Migonion263. Naxos3. liartos)164. Mikro-Chalia185. Nazfri363. —(nearOlympia)320. Thouro355. Nea-Epidavros243. MegaleAnastasova281.Mindilogli322. Eretria206. —Kiapha186. MiniEes17. Minzela216. Megalo-Chalia185. Minoa149. — Psara206. —Chorion243.247. Minthe, Mt. (Alvenaj— Syros(Hermoupolis) — Moulki165. Vouni) 307. 140. Megalopolis(Sinano)289Minyas,Treasuryof194.Neda, the312. 315.316. Megalo-Revma209. Misano295. Nedon,the281.283. —Soros19. Misithrasor MistraNegroponte 280 (Euboea)204. — Thouro355. Mi-Ion!ii30. Neleia217. — Tzoti224. Mistra281. Neleus,the212. — Vouno184. Mistro211. Nemea241.296. Megalovrysis203. Mitiline(Haliartos)164.Nemnitza303. Megara148. Modi198. Neochori(.SHolia)31. Megaris148. Modon (Methone, Mo (Boeotia)160.169. Megaspelseon,conventthone) 321. (EubOJa)211. 300 Molai262. (Messenia)352. Meko'ne (Sikyon)238. Molista32. Neokastro354. Melangeia,spring293.Molo22.191. Neris267. Melas,the192. 201.Molykrela33. Neritos, Mt.(Anot),!6. Meligala353. Monachou190. Nesion(Nisi)353. Meligou267. H.Mone,convent251.Nestane293. Melissi239. Monemvasia262. Nezerf,Lakeof230. Melos3. Moni136. Nichori169. Mendeli(Pentele),conMonodendrf322. Niksea191. vent122. Monodris211. H.Nikitas,Chapel1!6. Mendenitza198. Monteverde346 Nikli271. MenelKon280. Mophlitza318. Nikolaika301. Menfdi 118. 120. Morea231. H.Nikolas23. Mentzena346. fCastleo 30. H.Nikolaos(Corinl,) Mercnda (Myrrhinus)129,Mdriki185. 150. Merlera (Erfkousi)13. Morios,the161. (Eubosa)209. Mertsaonrsi271. Morokampos165. (Pylos) 35i. Mcrzi" 228. Mothone(Modonl321.—, Eatavothra189. Mesatis29. Moulki135. NiniK1.27. Mesoa 278. Moundra317. Niris(Iri,Eurotas)' 74. Mesoch6ri209. Mouria305. Nisrea149. Mesogia,he128. t Mouria240. Nisi(Nesion)353. Mesol6ngion(Missolongi, Mousaki325. Nivttza309. Mesolonghi)30. Mousia295. iNomia315. Ore Mesoroiigi298. jMoustaphades183. INonakris297. INDEX. 371 Nyktochorl130. |Olympia: Palseogoulas(CEon)273. Oak'sHeads,Passof175.Theokoleon340. Paleeokastri(Eubcea)210. Ocha,Mt.2M). 204. Thermee,Roman341.Palfeokastrizza12. CBantheia34. Treasuries335.336.Palwdkastro(Thessaly) (Eniadse31. TriumphalArches337.227. CEnus268. Zanes336. —tesKalliddnes318. (EnussseIslands1.321. Zeus,Templeof330, (Messenia)356. (Eon274. Lxxviii. ,-, Mts.309. Oerde,the171. 174. —, Altarof332. |PalK>o-Kivdri264. CEta,Mt.147. —, Chryselephantine!Larissa(Krannon)221. Okalios,the164. Statuef o 331. Mouchli269. Olbios295. ZeusHorkios,Statue|— Panagia,convent(La- OldPylos356. of338. 1 conia)267. Olenos322. Olympos(Eubcea)207. Panagia,village(near Olonos,Mt.(Ervman-■ (Elvmbos,Thessaly)Askra)169. thos)323.346.30. 215."222. Phanaro305. Olura(Oluris)360. (Elymbo)135. Palffiopolis(Elis)32J. Olympia325. OlymposHill(Sellasia) —(Mantinea)292. AltarofHeraandZens273 Palreo-Selimna302. 333 Omal'a18. — Skaphidaki268. —f o Hercules335. OmerBey202. — Varvaso?na321. f—o Zeus333. Onchestos165. PalEeovouno167. Altis327.328.330.339Oneia240. Palfeoyannis198. AqueductofHerodet-Mts.240. Palagia,Convent(onMt. Atticus335.336. >nougnathos263. Ptoon) 186. Bouleuterion338. Iphis,the292. , Mts.(Ptoon)185. BulloftheEretriansOpous,Cape150. Palamidi,Mt.andFor 332 "pus190. tress249. 250. Bv/.antineChurch339 Ora-as,Kastrotes222.Palitou308. EchoColonnade337.OrSPOkastro267. Pale18. EretrianBull332. Orchomends(Arcadia)Pallantion288. Exedraof Herodcs|294. Palokorachi241. Atticus335. (Boeotia)192.193. Paloiimha304. Gymnasium340. Oreous213. Pamisos,the(Messenia) Herseon333.327. Orestia (Megalopolis)289.352. HermesofPraxitelesOrman-Magoula224. ■ (Thessaly)227. 344.334.xciv. Oropds181. Pan,Caveof(Marathon) Heroon340. Oros(.Sgina)139. 127. Hippodrome337, Orthdpagos162. Panachaikon,Mt.231.322 Krdnion(KronosHill)Oryxis,Mts.(Saitta)295.iPanagta,Mt.(Lvkseon) 330. Osmanaga358. 805. Leonidaaon339. —, Lagoon357.358 PanagfatonKlelston, Metroon335. Ossa,Mt.215.221. (convent)118. Museum341. Ostrakina294. —Marmaridtissa122. Nero, HouseandPa-|OthonianIslands13. Panagiti290. lacef o 337. Othonous(Fano)13. Panakton175. KikeofPteonios344.Othrys,Mt.215.230. Pani(Paneion)128. 332. lOxiaIslands27. Panitza(Inachos)242. NorthGate340. Oxopholia(Hersea)814.Panopeus160. CEnomaos.Houseof332.Oxylithos211. 8.Pantaleone(H.Pante- Palastra340. Ozea,Mt.(Parnes)107.182.leimon),Passof13. Peldpion333. Panteleimon,the280. Phidias,Studioof340. Pa?ania,Demos128. Pantokrator(MonteS. Philippeion334. Pagasas218. Salvatore)14. Propyla?on340. Palfea-Epfdavros243. Papadia163. Prytaneion834. Palffio-Bazaro(Thermon)Pappades214. RomanRuins330. 32. Paralimni,Lakeof185. South-EastBuildingljPalseochora(JEgina)138.Parapotamioi197. 337. — (Karystos)209. Parapoungia170. SouthPortico338. Paleedchori(Martino)190.H.Paraskeve316. 359. Stadion337. Palaso-Episkopi271. Paravdla32. StatueBases332.334 —Gardiki(Pelinnivon)Parga14. 224. Parnassus,Mt.158.150. 24* 372 INDEX. Parncs (Ozea),Mt.107.Phaloreia229. Pikc*rmi(nearMantinca 182.121. Phanari(Elis)309. 293. Parnon(Malevo),Mt. 267 —(Thessaly)227. ■ (nearMarathon)124. Parori281. Phanari-Magoula227. Pikraki191. Paros3. H.Phanentes,convent,Pilav-TepPhoenix,the202. Ponsa,spring166. Peristera298. Phokikon160. Pontikfikastro321. Perivos32. Pholoe,Mt.346. Pontikonisi(Corfu)9. Persouphli224. Phonia296. Pontikonisia(Euboea)214. Petakas,spring192. Phonissa,the239. Pontinos,Mt.andspring Petalidi322. Phoros359. 268. Petoules19. Phouka(Apesas)238. Poros19.247. Petra 164. PhourkaPass203.230.Portses(*gina)139. Petrachos161. Phournos,Caveof285. (SantameriMts.)324. Petrina287. Phrankata18. (Stratos)32. Petri tis_159. Phreattys,Bayof111. —(Thessaly)227. Petrochori32. Phrikion,Mt.198. Porthmoa208. Petro-Karovo247. Phrixa305. PortoLeone109. Petromagoula193. Phryni14. —Mandri129. H.Petros267. Phtelia309. Eaphti129. Phdbra (PhleVa)134. Phthia225. Poseidion216. PhBedriadse,the153. Phthiotis202. 220.Poseidonia236. Phagas (Sphingion)165.Phyla206. Potami14. Phaistos223. Phyle119. Potam6 (Corfu)8.11.12. Phalara204. Piada243. Potnia;179. Phalaros,the164. Piali271. Poulakida257. Phaleron108. Piana(Dipssa)302. Pournari(Elis)326. INDEX. 373 Pournari(Thcssaly)230Romanou, khanandriverlSerphopoulo3. Pourno211. 358. 1Sialesi289. Prasidiiki360. Rongotzio309. Siderokastro(Lykosoura) Prasiee(Attica)129. Roudi20. 314. — (Laconia)262. RoudiS, Mt.302. (near Kypariasia)360. Prevet6,Khanof324.Rouga, Epano-andKatoSideroporta202. Probalinthos127. 317. Signes13. Prodano321. Roumelia, Castleof33Sikydn238. Proerna229. RouphiA,the(Ladon)304Simfza352. Prokoveniko151. 310. Sinand289. Prdnia247.251. , —(Alpheios)310. Slphte166. Pronoi19. RousaHills273. Siphnos3. Proskina190. Rousia294. Sirdsi180. Pr<5t5 321.358. Ronskifi,Mt.300. irjl353. PsachnS212. Rovia307. Skala(ontheEurotas)2S4. Psath6pyrgos240. Rovigno4. — tonBel269. Psophis346.299. Skaphidaki268. Psychiko277. Sach,Ehanof164. Skaphidia308. Psychro,Mt.(^Egaleon)Sachtero136. Skarmanga,convent115. 32t. 359. Sageika323. , Mta.(jEgaleos)2. Psyttaleia112. Sagmatas(Hypaton)180.Skiii229. Ptolis292. Sakona,Khanof290.Skiathis295. Ptoon,Mt.185. Saitta(Oryxis)295. Skiath<5s212. Pydna223. Salamis111. 113. Skillous820.309. Pyla358. Salamvrias.the220. Skimatari182. Pyleea156. Salgoneus185. Skipiesa(Skiathia)295. PylarosValley21. Salona161. Skiritis286. PylianPlain,the318.SaWne,Mts.139. SkironianCliffs149. Pylides13. Saloniki223. Skollion,Mts.323. Pylos(Elia)325. S.Salvatore,Monte14.Skolos175. —(Triphylia)354.321.Samari287. Skona,Mt.236. Pyrgi14. Samari354. Skope292. —, Plateauof19. Same(Cephalonia)20. Skopelos212. Pyrgoi(H.Elias)318.Samikdn319. Skop6s(Elatos)27. Pyrgos(nearAthens)Samoa(Same)20. Skordi(Elymbo)135. 118. Samothraki13. Skortzeno286. —(nearOlympia)324.Santamc'ri325. Skotussa219.224. — (Syros)140. Vouni323. Skoumbos,the229. — (Thessaly)226. Santorini(Thera)146.SkoupeikoPotami, the —Karyotikos308. Sapienza321. 239T .—H Marina188. Saponika32. Skourochori324. PyrI179.165. Saraki305. Skourta175. Pyrrha216. Saramsakli202. Skripero13. Saranta-P<5tamos269. Skripoii192. 193. Rachi 195. 272. Skroponeri190. Rado192. Sarantavli,cave157. Skyllseon(Skyli)248. Rapetdsa126. Saranti166. Slavochon284. Baphina124. Sarena318. Smerlina314.316. BaphU309. Sartfmata(Kallidromos)Sokraki13. Basina,the284. 199.151. Solos297. Razata20. Schinari,Kayo26. Sopeto,convent309. Reggio1. Schiate159. Sophadea226. Betoane323. Schiza321. Soros (Marathon)124. Rhamnus127. Schoinoa236. —(Teumessos)183. Bheitoi115. SeaMilla(Cephalonia)16.H.Sostis271. Rhencia146. Selianftika240. H.Soter,convent211. Rhion33.240. SelimBey198. Soudena(Lusoi)299. Rhoino(Parthenion)269Selinua,the(Achaia)239.Soulas184. Bfsova320. —(Elia)320. Souli290. Riviotissa283. Sellasia274. Soulima360. Rizrtmylo239.301. Selleeis,the238. Soulinari(Argolis)247. Bodini153. Sengena186. Soultini,the307. Roi'tika322. Senphos3. Soumation-,_or 374 INDEX. Soumctia302. Stroviki192. Therapne280. Sourovigli32. Strovitzi317. Theresia146. Sourp160. Stylida204. Therik6(Thorikii)129. Spaides184. Stymphalos290. Thermia3. Spanochdri291. Sta rJ209. Therm(si,Cape248. Sparta274. Styx, the297. Thermon32. Spartilla14. Suitors'ill H 305. Thermopylae,Passof199. Spartivento,Capodi1. Sunion, Cape132. Thespiee169. Sp£ta128. Svoronata17. Thespios(Kanavari)165. Spathari212. Sybaris,spring156. Thessaliotis220. Speirseon,Cape139. Sybota Islands14. Thessalonica223. Spelises265. Sykamino181. Thessaly215. Spercheios,the201. Sykia 239. Thestieis32. Spetsa(Spetsce)2.248.— , channel356. Theutis302. Sphagia,or .Syra3 140. Thisbe 166. Sphakteria321. 354.355iSys (Sythas),the239.Thivte (Thebes)176. Sphingion165. |Sz.ara, Mt.242. Thoknia305. Spiliazesa129. Tholo, the317. Spiti touDrakou210.Tachi 178. Thorikd (Therikd)129. Spolaita32. Ttenaron,Cape264.1. Thomax273. Spolemi312. Taka272. Thonria348. Sporades3. Tamfnee208. Thourion197.162. Stagous (Kalabaka)228.Tanagra183. ThreeHeads,Passof Stala315. Tanos,the265.266. 175. Stamdta126. Taphiassos28. Thria115. Stamna32. Tarapsa.Kbanof284.ThriasianPlain115. StanUtes181. Tatdi121. Thronion191. Stasimo316. Tavla319. Thryon319. Stavro,Kavo216. H. Taxiarchi,conventThyrea266. —, village11. (Boeotia)166. Tiasa,the281. StavrodrdmitouMegaTaygetos1.282.281. Tichid(Thyrea)266. 159. Tcgea271. Tilphossa,spring164. Stavrokoraki127. Tegyra192. Tilphosaaeon166. Stavrds(Cephaloriia)18.Teichos(Larissa)320.Tiphee(Sinha?)166. 19. TeleiaHera,sanctuaryofTiryns242.251. — (Ithaka)25. 210. Tithdra(Tithorea)197. — (Marathon)124. Temeni239. Titthion245. Stavro-Vouni10. 11.Tempe,Valeof221. Tdgia305. Stemnitza302. Tenea241. Topdlia191. Stena.Passof165. TeneanSprings295. Topouzlar219. Stenyklaros349.291. TenerianField165. Tornese321. Steni211. 'Tenos3.141. TourkoVouni,the122. Steno270. 8.Teodoro11. Tourla316. Stephani(Erissa)152.■Terzi314. Tourliani142. —. the308. Tetrasi,Mts.315.316.Tourloyanni192. Stephania284. Teumessos183. Trachili,Cape243. H.Stephanos,springsofiThalamce324. TraehinianPlain202. 211. Thaumakoi230. Trachis160.202. Stephanossauis227. Thaumasion,Mts.302.Trachones134. Steveniko166. Thebes176. Trachy,Mt.294. Stimana323. Thcganousa322. Trapeza239. Stiris159. Theious286etc. Trapezus306. Stomi239L Theisoa(nearDimitzana)Tremola299. StomiontesPanagi'as303. TretonMts.241. 314. — (nearKaryteena)307.H.Triada(Corfu)11. Stoppei210. (PaleadkastroofLav-—(Tegyra)192. Stoura209. da)307. H.Trias229. Stouronisi(jEgQeia)209.H.Thekla212. Trichonis32. Stratoa32. Theletrion204. Trika227. Stravoskiadi14. H.Theodoros(Corfu)11.Trikalitikos(Sys,Sythas), Strephi324. (Krommyon)150. the 239. ^trophades321. Theokavtd246. Trikarddkastro(CE Stroungres299. Thera(Santorini)146. dee) 31. 375 Trikeri,island(nearVathrovouni206. Voutzi, Khanof314.360. Spetsa) 248. Vathf(Boeotia)184. Voutziko(Neda) Potami —, Straitof216. — (Ithaka)22. 312. 816. Trikkala(Trika)227. Velanidi283. Vrachati238. Trikkalinos227. Velestino219. Vrach<5ri(Agrinion)32. TrikorphaHills301. Veletouri,Mt.129. Vrana126. Trikorythos(Deme)128.Veli196. Vraona (Brauron)128. Triodoi301. Velia,the299. Vrastamitis164. Triodos(Schiate)159.Velibabas206. Vratsi184. Triphylia309.316.321.Velfgosti287. Vresthena268. Tripolitza(Tripolis)270.Velftsa197. Vrest6309. Tripotamo346.299. Velio238. Vrina320. Troezen248. Velouchi203. Vromosella305. Trypha291. Velousia208. Vromousa210. Trypi282. VenardiSika240. Vrom6vrysis353. TrypiotikoPotami282.Venetiko322. Vrylias(Vourlid)273. Tsachanani170. Verekla315. Vrfsres360. Tsachani170. Ver(5naMts.273. Vrysaki130. Tsamali192. Vergoutiani, spring174.Vrysia229. Tsepheremini291. 348.Vdrsova269. Vrysis211. Tshaoushi283. Vervati272. Vythismeno,Sto283. Tshianarii225. Vido,Islandof5. Tsipiana293. Vilia175. Tsorovos265. Vilostasi,Cape3. Xenophon,Tombof320. Tsoulari219. Vistrinitza34. Xerias(Charadros)242. Tsoupaga289. Vistritza(Haliakmon)Xerillas,the314. Tymphreatoa203. 223 — (Karnfon)287. Tzagesi222. Vlachokerasia272. Xeroch6ri213. Tzamadds,Caveof356.Vlasia30. Xerdkampos(onChel- Tzemberoiila304. H.Vlasis160. mos)297. Tzfa(Kea, Kcos)3. H. Vlasos346. — (onParnon)267. TzimberouMts.289. Vlassati182. — (nearSamikon)360. Tzirloneri,spring111.Vlicha180. — (onTaygetos)284. TzordkosMts.316. Vloch6(jEtolia)32. —, Riverof(Rasina) TzotikaHills273. — (Thessalv)223. 284. Tzoukaleika322. V16ngos304. Xeronomi166. Vocha,Plainof237. Xeropotami153. Vagia(.Egina)138. VoidiaMts.322. Xeropotamos213. Vagia(nearThebes)165.Voidokoilia357. Xerovouni(Eubcea)211. Valanaris,the124. Voika312. —(Messenia)316. Valaxaxlvi. Voiv6da228. Xerxes,Throneof112. Valsamdta19. V61o216. Xyli,Cape263. Valtetzi288. Vordonia286. Xylokastro239. Valtetzika,Kaljvia289.Vosaitika240. Xyniis,Lake230. Vambakou268. Vostitza(jEgion)239. Vapliid,Tombof284.Vouliasmeni,Lake134.Yenishehr219. Varitka(Gorgylos)273.Voulkanou348. Yereli(Gherli)219. Varassova(Chalki8)2,S.30.Vounaki297. Vardari(Ludias)223. —,Mt.(inMessenia)360.Zacha 309. Vardusi153.231.240. (Cephalonia)19. Zacharo318. Vari134. Vouno(Arcadia)288. Zachlorou300. Varsova282. — (Euboea)211. ZacholitikoPotami239. Varvara213. Vouphousia239. 301.Zachouliotika240. H.Varvara297. Voura287. Zagora167. —, Sit.359. VouraikoPotami300.Zaimi286. Varvassena324. Votirieni(Asopos)181.Zakynthos(Zante)27. Vasilikri(Eubcea)206.214.Vourkano,convent348.Zaleska,spring156. —(nearSykion238. Vourlia(Vrylias)273.Zanetata20. H.Vasilios,Mt.348. Vourliatiko,khan273.Zante(Zakynthos)27. —, village241.322. Vourva124. ZaraMt.258. Vasilis314. Vouthianou273. Zarax262. Vatheia208. Voutoukos286. Zaretra209. Vationdas212. Youtoulades13. Zarka209. 376 INDEX. Zarkos (Phaistos)223.Zestano201. Ziria (Kyllene)239. Khanf o 221. Zeus Aphesios149. Zitouni(Lamia)202. Zarouchla296. — Basileus163. Zoster,Cape134. ZavitaaMts.264.265.— Charmon292. Zougra239. Zea,Bayof111. — Ithomatas350. Zourtza316. Zelechova309. — Panhellenios139. Zygds,Mta.28. Zemeno159. — Skotitas26T. I—, Pass229. Zervata20. Zevgalatio353. Izygovisti302.

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