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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
The Morgue File 2010
the morgue file 2010 DONE BY: ASSIL DIAB 1850 1900 1850 to 1900 was known as the Victorian Era. Early 1850 bodices had a Basque opening over a che- misette, the bodice continued to be very close fitting, the waist sharp and the shoulder less slanted, during the 1850s to 1866. During the 1850s the dresses were cut without a waist seam and during the 1860s the round waist was raised to some extent. The decade of the 1870s is one of the most intricate era of women’s fashion. The style of the early 1870s relied on the renewal of the polonaise, strained on the back, gath- ered and puffed up into an detailed arrangement at the rear, above a sustaining bustle, to somewhat broaden at the wrist. The underskirt, trimmed with pleated fragments, inserting ribbon bands. An abundance of puffs, borders, rib- bons, drapes, and an outlandish mixture of fabric and colors besieged the past proposal for minimalism and looseness. women’s daywear Victorian women received their first corset at the age of 3. A typical Victorian Silhouette consisted of a two piece dress with bodice & skirt, a high neckline, armholes cut under high arm, full sleeves, small waist (17 inch waist), full skirt with petticoats and crinoline, and a floor length skirt. 1894/1896 Walking Suit the essential “tailor suit” for the active and energetic Victorian woman, The jacket and bodice are one piece, but provide the look of two separate pieces. 1859 zouave jacket Zouave jacket is a collarless, waist length braid trimmed bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves. -
The Victorian Age: a History of Dress, Textiles, and Accessories, 1819–1901
The Victorian Age: A History of Dress, Textiles, and Accessories, 1819–1901 International Conference of Dress Historians Friday, 25 October 2019 and Saturday, 26 October 2019 Convened By: The Association of Dress Historians www.dresshistorians.org Conference Venue: The Art Workers’ Guild 6 Queen Square London, WC1N 3AT England The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) supports and promotes the study and professional practice of dress and textile history. The ADH is proud to support scholarship in dress and textile history through its international conferences, the publication of The Journal of Dress History, prizes and awards for students and researchers, and ADH members’ events such as curators’ tours. The ADH is passionate about sharing knowledge. The mission of the ADH is to start conversations, encourage the exchange of ideas, and expose new and exciting research in the field. The ADH is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. As with all ADH publications, this conference programme is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. To view all ADH information, including events, Calls For Papers, and complete issues of The Journal of Dress History for free viewing and downloading, please visit www.dresshistorians.org. In the interest of the environment, this conference programme will not be printed on paper. We advise reading the programme digitally. Also in the interest of the environment, at the end of the conference please return plastic name badges to the name badge table, so the badges can be recycled. Thank you. If you are attending both days of the conference, you must retrieve your new name badge when you enter the venue on the second morning. -
Lecture Notes, by James Cahill
Lecture Notes, by James Cahill Note: The image numbers in these lecture notes do not exactly coincide with the images onscreen but are meant to be reference points in the lectures’ progression. Lecture 9B: Political and Poetic Themes in Southern Song Painting As we move into a period from which more reliable work survives, we can begin to address big concerns such as political themes in court painting, and poetic painting. The latter, poetic painting, means different things to different people; I myself gave a series of lectures that turned into a book titled The Lyric Journey: Poetic Painting in China and Japan (Harvard University Press, 1996). As I acknowledge in that book, there are a number of ways one can define poetic painting in China; I certainly donʹt claim that mine is the only right one, or even that itʹs the best way. In a broad sense, a lot of Southern Song Academy and academy‐style painting can be called poetic, either because it was done in response to couplets and quatrains of poetry presented to the artists by the emperor or others in the court, or simply because they knew that their imperial patrons preferred paintings that could be called poetic. I will develop that theme more as we move further into Southern Song painting; but I want to keep it always problematic, not a quality that one can define clearly or identify easily in paintings. Political Themes and Dynastic Restoration 9.13.1: The Virtuous Brothers Po‐I and Shu‐chʹi in the Wilderness Picking Herbs, early copy after Li Tang, handscroll, Palace Museum, Beijing. -
Course Information Sheet 0621-02
Course Information Sheet Course Code: 0621-02 Chinese Brush Painting: Studying Ma Yuan William Cai 13th - 14th Feb 2021 Saturday to Sunday Through face to face instruction and with traditional demonstrations, this Course Location: course will introduce the work of the famous landscape artist Ma Yuan. Missenden Abbey 'One-corner Ma' was a great painter in the Southern Song dynasty. Great Missenden In this workshop, through the study and research of Ma Yuan's works, we Buckinghamshire HP16 0BD will understand and master the essence of Chinese painting from the Saturday Southern Song dynasty. 9.45am Students arrive "His brushwork was excellent, firm and simple, with strong lines, and "axe 10am-1pm Teaching session cut and split" brushwork for texture. His pine trees were very tall and 1pm Lunch for all - strong as if they were made of iron wire, sometimes painted with a stump residents may check in brush" according to a contemporary commentator. 2-5.30pm Teaching session 6.45 for 7pm Dinner for residents Description Sunday The tutor will demonstrate the painting process of the chosen works and From 7-9.15am Breakfast for residents guide you through one or two similar styles and with face to face 9.30am-1pm Teaching session instruction and observing the tutor demonstrations, you will study and 1pm Lunch for all master some of the special performance techniques of Chinese painting. 2-5pm Last teaching session Ma Yuan (about 1160-65 - 1225 CE) was born into a family of painters, becoming painter-in-residence to the Southern Song court in Hangzhou, as had his father, grandfather and great-grandfather before him. -
Women Rulers in Imperial China
NAN N Ü Keith McMahonNan Nü 15-2/ Nan (2013) Nü 15 179-218(2013) 179-218 www.brill.com/nanu179 ISSN 1387-6805 (print version) ISSN 1568-5268 (online version) NANU Women Rulers in Imperial China Keith McMahon (University of Kansas) [email protected] Abstract “Women Rulers in Imperial China”is about the history and characteristics of rule by women in China from the Han dynasty to the Qing, especially focusing on the Tang dynasty ruler Wu Zetian (625-705) and the Song dynasty Empress Liu. The usual reason that allowed a woman to rule was the illness, incapacity, or death of her emperor-husband and the extreme youth of his son the successor. In such situations, the precedent was for a woman to govern temporarily as regent and, when the heir apparent became old enough, hand power to him. But many women ruled without being recognized as regent, and many did not hand power to the son once he was old enough, or even if they did, still continued to exert power. In the most extreme case, Wu Zetian declared herself emperor of her own dynasty. She was the climax of the long history of women rulers. Women after her avoided being compared to her but retained many of her methods of legitimization, such as the patronage of art and religion, the use of cosmic titles and vocabulary, and occasional gestures of impersonating a male emperor. When women ruled, it was an in-between time when notions and language about something that was not supposed to be nevertheless took shape and tested the limits of what could be made acceptable. -
Apparel and Fashion Design, St.Teresa’S College(Autonomous),Ernakulam
B.Sc. Programme in Apparel and Fashion Design, St.Teresa’s College(Autonomous),Ernakulam ST.TERESA’S COLLEGE (AUTONOMOUS) ERNAKULAM 1 Curriculum and Syllabus 2015 onwards B.Sc. Programme in Apparel and Fashion Design, St.Teresa’s College(Autonomous),Ernakulam ST TERESA’S COLLEGE (AUTONOMOUS) ERNAKULAM, WOMEN’S STUDY CENTRE DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGNING B.Sc PROGRAMME FOR APPAREL AND FASHION DESIGN (C.B.C.S.S) 2015 ADMISSION ONWARDS 1. PREAMBLE: B.Sc.in Apparel and Fashion Design is a 6semesters full time program with an ultimate aim to produce a Responsible Fashion Designers AIMS AND OBJECTIVES OF THE PROGRAMME B.Sc.in Apparel and Fashion Design is a six semester full time programme with an ultimate aim to create a responsible designer who will serve the country and society by innovation, education, technology and research. The course falls under an emerging area of design necessity. The yesteryear fashion designing course churned out designers for the field of clothing and its related industry but without a thorough understanding of the society, environment or technologies around them. The course is based on the core subject – “Design Thinking” with an aim of creating a ‘Responsible Designer’. This programme provides a perspective of society, environment, education, technology and innovation so that a fresh and unique approach in the fields of clothing, accessories and furnishings may be developed thereby creating more meaningful products and experiences. The syllabus of the course is designed in such a way that it provides skill development required to be a successful fashion designer along with entrepreneurial skills to set up their own venture. -
A Critique and Discussion of the View That Shi Miyuan Proposed the Five-Mountain, Ten-Monastery System
45 A Critique and Discussion of the View That Shi Miyuan Proposed the Five-Mountain, Ten-Monastery System LAN Jih-chang* Abstract When Japan, during the Kamakura (1180–1333) and Muromachi (1336–1573) periods, imported Zen 禪 Buddhism from Song (960–1279) and Yuan (1279– 1368) China, it not only continually dispatched Zen monks on pilgrimages to China to seek materials for transmitting sectarian doctrine, but also intro- duced Zen temple architecture and monastic discipline to Japan, established the Five Mountain, Ten Monastery 五山十剎 system of government temples, and developed Five Mountain 五山 literature. This system of government temples is believed to have imitated the Song system of government temples of the same name. Moreover, it is the best example of Sino-Japanese cultural interaction in the field of Buddhism. In contrast with the ample materials we have on the operation of the Japanese system of the Five Mountain, Ten Monastery government temples, we lack sufficient materials to determine the time and impetus of the Song system of Five Mountain, Ten Monastery government temples and are at a loss to give a detailed accurate account of the Song system. Among the many views in circulation, the view most accepted by modern scholars is that Shi Miyuan 史彌遠 proposed to the court to establish this system of government temples during the reign of Emperor Ningzong (r. 1194–1224) of the Southern Song dynasty. But this theory comes down to us from Song Lian 宋濂 (1310–1381) of the early Ming dynasty, and no Song or Yuan sources mention this matter. Moreover, no Japanese Five Mountain Zen monks touch on this matter in any of their writings. -
The Morgue File
1850-1900 1901-1919 1920 The Morgue File Bailey Lovell 1930 1940 1950 1960 Victorian Era (1850-1900) The Victorian Era was quite literally named after Queen Victoria who reigned from 1837-1901. During this time, the British empire abolished slavery which freed more than 800,000 slaves at the time. Travel was revolutionized by the invention of the steam powered railway. Queen Victoria led London into a sixteen year long mourning after the death of her husband which revolutionized the way civilians dressed. The style of dress was very muted colors with no shine to the jewelry worn and London was very somber during this time. Corsets were very important during this time and shaped the way the woman’s body would be for the rest of her life. Many women during the day would keep themselves occupied by changing up to seven times throughout the day for their daily activities including horseback riding and tea time. The fashion world was revolutionized by the invention of the sewing machine which led to the first every fashion designer, Charles Worth.Charles Worth was the inventor of the polonaise skirt and began to use real women as models which he called mannequins. He also designed for Queen Victoria herself and other royalty. The crinoline was also invented during the Victorian Era which created the full skirt which needed lots of assistance to put on and take off. Women's Daywear Zouave Jacket: The zouave jacket is a bolero Crinoline Skirt: The crinoline skirt was a cage The Corset: The corset was one of the most style jacket that is tighter at the sleeve and style hooped underskirt that used stiff netting. -
Lecture Notes, by James Cahill
Lecture Notes, by James Cahill Note: The image numbers in these lecture notes do not exactly coincide with the images onscreen but are meant to be reference points in the lectures’ progression. Lecture 10B: Bird‐and‐Flower Painting: Emperor Huizong and After This second part of Lecture 10 is about the bird‐and‐flower painting of the time of Emperor Huizong and, later, includes a brief look at a slightly earlier artist. As in the lecture that preceded this one, my approach will be mainly visual: how bird‐and‐flower painting changes stylistically; what the different artists contributed. I’ll deal with the paintings ascribed to Emperor Huizong only with regard to style and authenticity: what characterizes the paintings that I take to be really from his hand. And that account will differ strongly from whatʹs been written about them before. On the other hand, much of the really valuable arguments made in the writings of Patricia Ebrey and Maggie Bickford, cited in my remarks, you will have to get by reading their writings, as I recommend strongly that you do. Also, Alfreda Murck has written an article in which she attempts to relate one of the paintings weʹll see early on in this lecture, Cui Baiʹs Hare and Magpies painted in 1061, to a particular incident in history. I wonʹt comment on that, except to say that sheʹs a terrific scholar and if youʹre serious about the subject you should read her article —it was presented at a panel honoring Ellen Laing. 10.20 Cui Bai 崔白 (active ca. -
The Literary Design of Liu Yiqing's Qiantang Yishi And
THE POETICS OF MISCELLANEOUSNESS: THE LITERARY DESIGN OF LIU YIQING’S QIANTANG YISHI AND THE HISTORIOGRAPHY OF THE SOUTHERN SONG by Gang Liu A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy (Asian Languages and Cultures) In the University of Michigan 2010 Doctoral Committee: Professor Shuen-fu Lin, Chair Professor Yopie Prins Associate Professor David L. Rolston Assistant Professor Christian de Pee © Gang Liu 2010 To Wei and Ava ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I owe my deepest gratitude to my adviser, Professor Shuen-fu Lin, whose unfailing support and incisive comments have made the writing of this dissertation such a pleasant and rewarding experience for me. Professor Lin is not only an inspiring mentor and teacher, but also an amiable person whom I have always been comfortable to work with. I am grateful to have him as my adviser during my graduate study. I also owe great debts of thanks to Professors David L. Rolston, Christian de Pee, and Yopie Prins, who are on my dissertation committee. Professors Rolston, de Pee, and Prins have all been very supportive and have helped me immeasurably throughout the entire course of this dissertation. They have been most willing to read and to offer me feedback from different perspectives (literary, historical and theoretical, etc.) on drafts of this dissertation at various stages. Without their support and insightful comments, this dissertation would never become possible. I would like to extend my thanks to Professors William Baxter, Miranda Brown, Xiaobing Tang, Jonathan Zwicker, Ken Ito, and Nancy Florida, who have showed enthusiastic interests in this dissertation and offered me invaluable suggestions on it. -
Las Vegas Daily Optic, 10-23-1899 the Optic Publishing Co
University of New Mexico UNM Digital Repository Las Vegas Daily Optic, 1896-1907 New Mexico Historical Newspapers 10-23-1899 Las Vegas Daily Optic, 10-23-1899 The Optic Publishing Co. Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/lvdo_news Recommended Citation The Optic Publishing Co.. "Las Vegas Daily Optic, 10-23-1899." (1899). https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/lvdo_news/3793 This Newspaper is brought to you for free and open access by the New Mexico Historical Newspapers at UNM Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Las Vegas Daily Optic, 1896-1907 by an authorized administrator of UNM Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. 11 CITY EDITION. HE ..Lab Vegas Daily OPT G 4:30 P. fl VOL. XX. EAST LAS VEGAS, NEW MEXICO MONDAY EVENING, OCTOBER 23. 1890 NO. 25 dragging itself out of the snow heavy Filipinos Pass Through. ( BRITON AND that has been falling for several days. Three feet on level. TROUBLES Fifteen Filipinos passed through ou Nothing like it . in October for twenty years, 20 per Sa nrday's No. IT for. Kin Franci-p- First National Bank. sons lost their lives and bad bsen at the Omsha . BOER 20,000 sheep OF OUR OWN They exposi- perished. tion, in charga of Alfredo Solema, of LAS VEGAS, NEW MEXICO. HAD ItOW NEAlt DISBEE. Old Mexico, who was emp'oyed by the The new 10 . xpodtion people to seeura them as "Normal," a cents Cigai-- ' one and JOSHUA S. RAYNOLDS, President. a drawing card. The men wera small Tiy yon will have no other.