Evidence for Infragravity Wave-Tide Resonance in Deep Oceans
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Observations of Nearshore Infragravity Waves: Seaward and Shoreward Propagating Components A
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 107, NO. C8, 3095, 10.1029/2001JC000970, 2002 Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components A. Sheremet,1 R. T. Guza,2 S. Elgar,3 and T. H. C. Herbers4 Received 14 May 2001; revised 5 December 2001; accepted 20 December 2001; published 6 August 2002. [1] The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into shoreward and seaward propagating components. Seaward of the surf zone, shoreward propagating infragravity waves are amplified by nonlinear interactions with groups of sea and swell, and the shoreward infragravity energy flux increases in the onshore direction. In the surf zone, nonlinear phase coupling between infragravity waves and groups of sea and swell decreases, as does the shoreward infragravity energy flux, consistent with the cessation of nonlinear forcing and the increased importance of infragravity wave dissipation. Seaward propagating infragravity waves are not phase coupled to incident wave groups, and their energy levels suggest strong infragravity wave reflection near the shoreline. The cross-shore variation of the seaward energy flux is weaker than that of the shoreward flux, resulting in cross-shore variation of the squared infragravity reflection coefficient (ratio of seaward to shoreward energy flux) between about 0.4 and 1.5. -
Study of Earth's Gravity Tide and Ocean Loading
CHINESE JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICS Vol.49, No.3, 2006, pp: 657∼670 STUDY OF EARTH’S GRAVITY TIDE AND OCEAN LOADING CHARACTERISTICS IN HONGKONG AREA SUN He-Ping1 HSU House1 CHEN Wu2 CHEN Xiao-Dong1 ZHOU Jiang-Cun1 LIU Ming1 GAO Shan2 1 Key Laboratory of Dynamical Geodesy, Institute of Geodesy and Geophysics, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Wuhan 430077, China 2 Department of Land Surveying and Geoinformatics, Hong-Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Knowloon, Hong Kong Abstract The tidal gravity observation achievements obtained in Hongkong area are introduced, the first complete tidal gravity experimental model in this area is obtained. The ocean loading characteristics are studied systematically by using global and local ocean models as well as tidal gauge data, the suitability of global ocean models is also studied. The numerical results show that the ocean models in diurnal band are more stable than those in semidiurnal band, and the correction of the change in tidal height plays a significant role in determining accurately the phase lag of the tidal gravity. The gravity observation residuals and station background noise level are also investigated. The study fills the empty of the tidal gravity observation in Crustal Movement Observation Network of China and can provide the effective reference and service to ground surface and space geodesy. Key words Hongkong area, Tidal gravity, Experimental model, Ocean loading 1 INTRODUCTION The Earth’s gravity is a science studying the temporal and spatial distribution of the gravity field and its physical mechanism. Generally, its achievements can be used in many important domains such as space science, geophysics, geodesy, oceanography, and so on. -
Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing Stephanie Contardo 1,*, Graham Symonds 2, Laura E. Segura 3, Ryan J. Lowe 4 and Jeff E. Hansen 2 1 CSIRO Oceans and Atmosphere, Crawley 6009, Australia 2 Faculty of Science, School of Earth Sciences, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] (G.S.); jeff[email protected] (J.E.H.) 3 Departamento de Física, Universidad Nacional, Heredia 3000, Costa Rica; [email protected] 4 Faculty of Engineering and Mathematical Sciences, Oceans Graduate School, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 18 September 2019; Accepted: 23 October 2019; Published: 28 October 2019 Abstract: An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind wave conditions. The strong sea 1 breeze cycle at the study site (wind speeds frequently > 10 m s− ) produced diurnal variations in the peak frequency of the incident waves, with wind sea conditions (periods 2 to 8 s) dominating during the peak of the sea breeze and swell (periods 8 to 20 s) dominating during times of low wind. We observed that edge wave modes and their frequency distribution varied with the frequency of the short-wave forcing (swell or wind-sea) and edge waves were more energetic than leaky waves for the duration of the 10-day experiment. -
Power Spectra of Infragravity Waves in a Deep Ocean Oleg A
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Woods Hole Open Access Server GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS, VOL. 40, 2159–2165, doi:10.1002/grl.50418, 2013 Power spectra of infragravity waves in a deep ocean Oleg A. Godin,1,2 Nikolay A. Zabotin,1,3 Anne F. Sheehan,1,4 Zhaohui Yang,4 and John A. Collins5 Received 5 February 2013; revised 24 March 2013; accepted 25 March 2013; published 29 May 2013. [1] Infragravity waves (IGWs) play an important role in [3] Most field observations of IGWs have been made coupling wave processes in the ocean, ice shelves, in relatively shallow water on continental shelves atmosphere, and the solid Earth. Due to the paucity of [Munk, 1949; Herbers et al., 1995; Sheremet et al., 2002]. experimental data, little quantitative information is Deepwater IGWs [Snodgrass et al., 1966; Filloux, 1983; available about power spectra of IGWs away from the Webb et al., 1991] are among the least studied waves in shore. Here we use continuous, yearlong records of the ocean; and their temporal and spatial variability remains pressure at 28 locations on the seafloor off New Zealand’s poorly understood [Dolenc et al., 2005; Uchiyama and South Island to investigate spectral and spatial distribution McWilliams, 2008]. Moreover, little quantitative information of IGW energy. Dimensional analysis of diffuse IGW is available about IGW power spectra [Webb and Crawford, fields reveals universal properties of the power spectra 2010]. This is primarily due to IGW amplitudes on the ocean observed at different water depths and leads to a simple, surface being much smaller than the amplitudes of wind predictive model of the IGW spectra. -
The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
1 Surveys in Geophysics Archimer November 2011, Volume 40, Issue 6, Pages 1563-1601 https://doi.org/10.1007/s10712-019-09557-5 https://archimer.ifremer.fr https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00509/62046/ The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes Dodet Guillaume 1, *, Melet Angélique 2, Ardhuin Fabrice 6, Bertin Xavier 3, Idier Déborah 4, Almar Rafael 5 1 UMR 6253 LOPSCNRS-Ifremer-IRD-Univiversity of Brest BrestPlouzané, France 2 Mercator OceanRamonville Saint Agne, France 3 UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS - La Rochelle UniversityLa Rochelle, France 4 BRGMOrléans Cédex, France 5 UMR 5566 LEGOSToulouse Cédex 9, France *Corresponding author : Guillaume Dodet, email address : [email protected] Abstract : Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. -
Title on the Observations of the Earth Tide by Means Of
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Kyoto University Research Information Repository On the Observations of the Earth Tide by Means of Title Extensometers in Horizontal Components Author(s) OZAWA, Izuo Bulletins - Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto Citation University (1961), 46: 1-15 Issue Date 1961-03-27 URL http://hdl.handle.net/2433/123706 Right Type Departmental Bulletin Paper Textversion publisher Kyoto University DISASTER PREVENTION RESEARCH INSTITUTE BULLETIN NO. 46 MARCH, 1961 ON THE OBSERVATIONS OF THE EARTH TIDE BY MEANS OF EXTENSOMETERS IN HORIZONTAL COMPONENTS BY IZUO OZAWA KYOTO UNIVERSITY, KYOTO, JAPAN 1 DISASTER PREVENTION RESEARCH INSTITUTE KYOTO UNIVERSITY BULLETINS Bulletin No. 46 March, 1961 On the Observations of the Earth Tide by Means of Extensometers in Horizontal Components By Izuo OZAWA 2 On the Observations of the Earth Tide by Means of Extensometers in Horizontal Components By Izuo OZAWA Geophysical Institute, Faculty of Science, Kyoto University Abstract The author has performed the observations of tidal strains of the earth's surface in some or several directions by means of extensometers at Osakayama observatory Kishu mine, Suhara observatory and Matsushiro observatory, and he has calculated the tide-constituents (M2, 01, etc.) of the observed strains by means of harmonic analysis. According to the results, the phase lags of M2-constituents except one in Suhara are nearly zero, whose upper and lower limits are 43' and —29°, respectively. That is the coefficients of cos 2t-terms of the strains are posi- tive value in all the azimuths, and the ones of their sin 2t-terms are much smaller than the ones of their cos 2t-terms, where t is an hour angle of hypothetical heavenly body at the observatory. -
Earth Tide Effects on Geodetic Observations
EARTH TIDE EFFECTS ON GEODETIC OBSERVATIONS by K. BRETREGER A thesis submitted as a part requirement for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, to the University of New South Wales. January 1978 School of Surveying Kensington, Sydney. This is to certify that this thesis has not been submitted for a higher degree to any other University or Institution. K. Bretreger ( i i i) ABSTRACT The Earth tide formulation is developed in the view of investigating ocean loading effects. The nature of the ocean tide load leads to a proposalfor a combination of quadratures methods and harmonic representation being used in the representation of the loading potential. This concept is developed and extended by the use of truncation functions as a means of representing the stress and deformation potentials, and the radial displacement in the case of both gravity and tilt observations. Tidal gravity measurements were recorded in Australia and Papua New Guinea between 1974 and 1977, and analysed at the International Centre for Earth Tides, Bruxelles. The observations were analysed for the effect of ocean loading on tidal gravity with a •dew to nodelling these effects as a function of space and time. It was found that present global ocean tide models cannot completely account for the observed Earth tide residuals in Australia. Results for a number of models are shown, using truncation function methods and the Longman-Farrell approach. Ocean tide loading effects were computed using a simplified model of the crustal response as an alternative to representation by the set of load deformation coefficients h~, k~. It is shown that a ten parameter representation of the crustal response is adequate for representing the deformation of the Earth tide by ocean loading at any site in Australia with a resolution of ±2 µgal provided extrapolation is not performed over distances greater than 10 3 km. -
Transformation of Infragravity Waves During Hurricane Overwash
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Transformation of Infragravity Waves during Hurricane Overwash Katherine Anarde 1,*,† , Jens Figlus 2 , Damien Sous3,4 and Marion Tissier 5 1 Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Rice University, Houston, TX 77005, USA 2 Department of Ocean Engineering, Texas A&M University, Galveston, TX 77554, USA; fi[email protected] 3 Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), Université de Toulon, Aix Marseille Université, CNRS, IRD, 83130 La Garde, France; [email protected] 4 Laboratoire des Sciences de l’Ingénieur Appliquées a la Méchanique et au Génie Electrique—Fédération IPRA, University of Pau & Pays Adour/E2S UPPA, Chaire HPC-Waves, EA4581, 64600 Anglet, France 5 Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section, Delft University of Technology, 2628CN Delft, The Netherlands; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] † Current address: Department of Geological Sciences, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Chapel Hill, NC 27514, USA. Received: 1 July 2020; Accepted: 16 July 2020; Published: 22 July 2020 Abstract: Infragravity (IG) waves are expected to contribute significantly to coastal flooding and sediment transport during hurricane overwash, yet the dynamics of these low-frequency waves during hurricane impact remain poorly documented and understood. This paper utilizes hydrodynamic measurements collected during Hurricane Harvey (2017) across a low-lying barrier-island cut (Texas, U.S.A.) during sea-to-bay directed flow (i.e., overwash). IG waves were observed to propagate across the island for a period of five hours, superimposed on and depth modulated by very-low frequency storm-driven variability in water level (5.6 min to 2.8 h periods). -
The Earth Tide Effects on Petroleum Reservoirs
THE EARTH TIDE EFFECTS ON PETROLEUM RESERVOIRS Preliminary Study A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE DEPARTMENT OF PETROLEUM ENGINEERING AND THE COMMITTEE ON GRADUATE STUDIES OF STANFORD UNIVERSITY IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF ENGINEER by Patricia C. Axditty May 197T" Approved for the Department: t-^ 7 Approved for the University Committee on Graduate Studies: Dean of Graduate Studies ii To my husband iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The author is indebted to Professor Amos N. Nur and Professor H. J. Ramey, Jr., who suggested the research and provided help and advice throughout the project. The field data used in this work were made available by personnel of many different oil companies. The author wishes to acknowledge Dr. G. F. Kingelin from Gult Research and Development Company, Dr. C. C. Mattax and D. A. Pierce from Exxon, Dr. S. C. Swift from Cities Service Company, George B. Miller of Occidental Research Corporation, and many others who contributed to this study. Computer time was provided by Stanford University. This work was supported partly by the Stanford LBL Contract #167-3500 for the Department of Petroleum Engineering, and by the Stanford Rock Physics Project //2-BCZ-903 for the Department of Geophysics. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENT iv ABSTRACT 1 1. INTRODUCTION 3 2. SOME BACKGROUND ON THE STRESS-STRAIN THEORY AND THE EARTH TIDE MECHANISM 4 2.1 Stress-Strain Theory 4 2.2 General Information on Tides 14 3. THE EFFECTS OF EARTH TIDES ON OPEN WELL-AQUIFER SYSTEMS: STATE OF THE ART 22 3.1 Static Solution 24 3.2 Dynamic Solution 27 4. -
Lecture 1: Introduction to Ocean Tides
Lecture 1: Introduction to ocean tides Myrl Hendershott 1 Introduction The phenomenon of oceanic tides has been observed and studied by humanity for centuries. Success in localized tidal prediction and in the general understanding of tidal propagation in ocean basins led to the belief that this was a well understood phenomenon and no longer of interest for scientific investigation. However, recent decades have seen a renewal of interest for this subject by the scientific community. The goal is now to understand the dissipation of tidal energy in the ocean. Research done in the seventies suggested that rather than being mostly dissipated on continental shelves and shallow seas, tidal energy could excite far traveling internal waves in the ocean. Through interaction with oceanic currents, topographic features or with other waves, these could transfer energy to smaller scales and contribute to oceanic mixing. This has been suggested as a possible driving mechanism for the thermohaline circulation. This first lecture is introductory and its aim is to review the tidal generating mechanisms and to arrive at a mathematical expression for the tide generating potential. 2 Tide Generating Forces Tidal oscillations are the response of the ocean and the Earth to the gravitational pull of celestial bodies other than the Earth. Because of their movement relative to the Earth, this gravitational pull changes in time, and because of the finite size of the Earth, it also varies in space over its surface. Fortunately for local tidal prediction, the temporal response of the ocean is very linear, allowing tidal records to be interpreted as the superposition of periodic components with frequencies associated with the movements of the celestial bodies exerting the force. -
Basin-Scale Tidal Measurements Using Acoustic Tomography
TOOL Basin-Scale Tidal Measurements using Acoustic Tomography by Robert Hugh Headrick B.S. Chem. Eng., Oklahoma State University (1983) Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degrees of OCEAN ENGINEER and MASTER OF SCIENCE IN OCEAN ENGINEERING at the MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY and the WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION September 1990 © Robert Hugh Headrick, 1990 The author hereby grants to the United States Government, MIT, and WHOI permission to reproduce and to distribute copies of this thesis document in whole or in part. Dr. W. Kendall Melville Chairman,Joint Committee for Oceanographic Engineering Massachusetts Institute of Technology/ Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution T247908 //jj/3 //<//?/ OOL ^ -3-8002 Basin-Scale Tidal Measurements using Acoustic Tomography by Robert Hugh Headrick Submitted to the Massachusetts Institute of Technology/ Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Joint Program in Oceanographic Engineering on August 10, 1990, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degrees of Ocean Engineer and Master of Science in Ocean Engineering Abstract Travel-times of acoustic signals were measured between a bottom-mounted source near Oahu and four bottom-mounted receivers located near Washington, Oregon, and Cali- fornia in 1988 and 1989. This paper discusses the observed tidal signals. At three out of four receivers, observed travel times at Ml and 52 periods agree with predictions from barotropic tide models to within ±30° in phase and a factor of 1.6 in amplitude. The discrepancy at the fourth receiver can be removed by including predicted effects of phase- locked baroclinic tides generated by seamounts. Our estimates of barotropic M2 tidal dissipation by seamounts vary between 2 x 10 16 and 18 -1 1 x 10 erg-s . -
Once Again: Once Againmtidal Friction
Prog. Oceanog. Vol. 40~ pp. 7-35, 1997 © 1998 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved Pergamon Printed in Great Britain PII: S0079-6611( 97)00021-9 0079-6611/98 $32.0(I Once again: once againmtidal friction WALTER MUNK Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California-San Diego, La Jolht, CA 92093-0225, USA Abstract - Topex/Poseidon (T/P) altimetry has reopened the problem of how tidal dissipation is to be allocated. There is now general agreement of a M2 dissipation by 2.5 Terawatts ( 1 TW = 10 ~2 W), based on four quite separate astronomic observational programs. Allowing for the bodily tide dissipation of 0.1 TW leaves 2.4 TW for ocean dissipation. The traditional disposal sites since JEFFREYS (1920) have been in the turbulent bottom boundary layer (BBL) of marginal seas, and the modern estimate of about 2.1 TW is in this tradition (but the distribution among the shallow seas has changed radically from time to time). Independent estimates of energy flux into the mar- ginal seas are not in good agreement with the BBL estimates. T/P altimetry has contributed to the tidal problem in two important ways. The assimilation of global altimetry into Laplace tidal solutions has led to accurate representations of the global tides, as evidenced by the very close agreement between the astronomic measurements and the computed 2.4 TW working of the Moon on the global ocean. Second, the detection by RAY and MITCHUM (1996) of small surface manifestation of internal tides radiating away from the Hawaiian chain has led to global estimates of 0.2 to 0.4 TW of conversion of surface tides to internal tides.