POCKET GUIDE D I V E T h a i l a n d including the Mergui ArchipelAgo
www.diveguidethailand.com
PAUL LEES PG 2009 EDItIon
Australia A$17.60 (incl. GST) Europe €11 Singapore S$22.50 (incl.GST) Thailand B450 UK £7.50 USA US$14.50 Sweden SEK105 pocket guide Dive Thailand
Cover photo & above: Golden damselfish (Amblyglyphidodon aureus)
Contents Map of Thailand & the region 10 About the author 12 About Pocket Guide dive Thailand 14 Introduction to Thailand 16 Travelling to & around Thailand 24 Health & safety for divers 32 Diving & snorkelling in & around Thailand 42 Learning to Dive in Thailand 52 The Andaman Sea Phuket 93 Khao Lak 113 Mu Koh Similan Marine National Park 122 Mu Koh Surin Marine National Park 129 The Mergui Archipelago 131 Krabi 135 Koh Phi Phi 147 Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park 157 The Gulf of Thailand Western Seaboard Koh Tao 169 Koh Phangan 181 Koh Samui 190 Eastern Seaboard Pattaya 196 Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park 206 Alphabetical index of dive centres 220
Published by Sun Offa Beach Co., Ltd., 29/116 Moo 2, Chuan Chuen Lagoon, T. Koh Kaew, A. Muang, Phuket 83002, Thailand, in cooperation with Phuket Publicity Services Part., Ltd. EDITOR: Wilai Suksalee. [email protected], www.golfguidethailand.com PRINTER: Siam Offset Co., Ltd, 9/1 Soi Sriaksorn Tungmahamek, Bangkok 10120 ©2008 Sun Offa Beach Co., Ltd and Phuket Publicity Services Part., Ltd. All rights reserved. The contents of this book may not be reproduced or copied in any form – printed, electronic, photocopy or otherwise – except for excerpts used in reviews, without the written permission of the copyright holders. Text & photography, © Paul Lees (unless otherwise stated in the book). Design & layout, © Grenville Fordham. 8 OvErvIEW MAPS Dive Thailand
Thailand & neighbouring countries
Principal diving destinations
10 AbOUT THE AUTHOr Paul Lees
ritish born writer and photographer, Paul Lees, has travelled extensively throughout Asia, gaining first-hand Binsight and absorbing local perspective along the way. Numerous valuable experiences have been stored in the form of pictures and words, which have since appeared in many internationally acclaimed publications including New Holland’s best selling coffee table presentations Top Dive Sites of the Indian Ocean, The Dive Atlas of the World and Diving with Giants, as well as Dorling Kindersley’s Eyewitness Guide to Thailand. Aside from spearheading the Pocket Guide series, Paul holds the qualification of Master Instructor under two scuba diving training agencies. He also specialises in underwater photography and is a regular contributor to regional and international scuba diving magazines. He has also been bringing the underwater world to the surface in the form of natural history documentaries and TV shows, including ABC Kane’s The Living Edens and the BBC’s Really Wild Show. When not engrossed with the range of Pocket Guide titles, he continues to pay attention to expanding his extensive image library on subjects both above and below the ocean surface. Paul currently lives in Thailand with his family. photo by Wilai Suksalee by photo 12 AbOUT POCKET GUIDE Dive Thailand
his, the 2009 edition of Pocket Guide DIvE Thailand, Tfollows the Pocket Guide philosophy: written by experts who are passionate about their subject and widely distributed to reach active, travelling divers and those interested in taking up the sport, providing an informative, quality publication.
The contents of the book start with a series of introduction sections, namely: Introduction to Thailand, Travelling to & around Thailand, Diving & snorkelling in & around Thailand, plus a section on Health & safety when diving.
The book then covers the different diving regions, each with its own introduction and map, plus descriptions of the region’s featured divesites. These are followed by detailed listings of featured dive operators and a regional directory of local services and travelling logistics. Each dive operator listing and directory has a uniform layout to maintain the high standard and profile that are the hallmarks of a Pocket Guide publication.
Although every effort has been made in putting together this, the 2009 Edition of Pocket Guide DIvE Thailand, there is always the possibility of changes to the conditions at divesites or facilities offered after going to print.
If you find that we have misrepresented any details, please send an email telling us what you found wrong. Your input will help us correct errors for the next edition, which will contain credits to all readers who have kindly supplied valuable input. Comments to: [email protected] If you have enjoyed this title, or we trust found it useful, there are other topic-specific guides in the series.
Pocket Guide GOLF Thailand gives an in-depth overview of each of the golfing regions around the country including featured courses and how best to play them. These are complemented by, amongst others, informative sections covering golfing tips and tricks, healthy playing, golf for all the family and living the golfing lifestyle. A worthy companion to any players’ scorecard!
Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand (due for release first quarter 2009) is packed with signature dish recipes and how to create them from top restaurants around Thailand. There are also sections covering regional flavours, different cooking styles, preparation and presentation techniques, as well as healthy and alternative ingredient suggestions making it an ideal meal planner and food shopping guide where ever you are. After all, everyone has to eat! 14 InTrODUCTIOn to Thailand
t the heart of South East Asia, Thailand is an independent kingdom combining 20th-century sophistication with an Aancient culture that has evolved over the past 700 years. Covering just over 500,000 sq km it is bordered by Malaysia to the south, Myanmar to the west, Laos to the north and Cambodia to the east. It is unique amongst Southeast Asian nations in that it has never been occupied by a foreign colonial power. Largely as a result, it has maintained a cohesive sense of national identity and traditional culture.
Tourism With over five million annual visitors, Thailand is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Asia. It has an enormous amount to offer, from ancient temples to rainforests and remote islands with palm-fringed beaches – and, of course, coral reefs teeming with life for divers and snorkellers. Tourism is an important part of the kingdom’s service economy.
The country has also recently become a bit of a golfers’ paradise. In relation to its neighbours, Singapore, Hong Kong,
One of Thailand’s many glorious golf courses
16 InTrODUCTIOn POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd thAilAnd - introduction to Thailand
Taiwan, Korea and Japan, it’s excellent value for money. As Isan a result, many Asian and European tourists now visit in the Separated from Laos by the Mekong River, the northeast winter months from November to March and enjoy a wide plateau is dominated by agriculture (rice, fruit and vegetables) range of impressive golf facilities all around the country. and is one of the poorest regions in the country.
For best information and insight on where, when and how to Known as Isan, this region has a distinct culture and dialect play, see Pocket Guide GOLF Thailand and its online version, PG (reflecting its proximity to Laos), and although it is the least www.golfguidethailand.com developed area in Thailand, this part of the country is well worth visiting, with ancient stone temples dating back bangkok and the regions of Thailand almost 10 centuries. Isan is growing in importance as the The population of Thailand is around 60 million, with gateway to Laos. approximately 10 million people living in the capital, Bangkok. This massive, vibrant, traffic-bound city dominates Central Plains the country’s central region and functions as the cultural, The central plains are another important rice-growing area religious, economic and political centre of the country. and, although most visitors tend to pass them by on their way further north, there are ancient cities, such as Ayutthaya Thailand is divided into four distinct regions: the mountainous and Sukhothai, which repay exploration. north, the vast northeast plateau, the central plains, and the narrow Isthmus of Kra to the south, stretching down to the The Andaman Sea border with Malaysia. It’s the islands and beaches of southern Thailand that hold the greatest appeal for tourists and, whether you’re looking for Once covered in teakwood forests, the mountainous solitude or sophisticated nightlife, there is plenty of choice. northern region appeals to the adventurous traveller, with one of the main attractions being the prospect of trekking The Andaman coastline, to the west of the Kra Isthmus, through remote – and not so remote – villages inhabited by a boasts fabulous scenery and dazzling beaches. The largest diversity of tribal peoples. The main focal point for the region and best-known of the island destinations here is Phuket, is the growing centre of Chiang Mai, Thailand’s ‘second’ city. which has been attracting tourists for a number of years and is now in full swing, high-rise hotels appear inexorably above From the viewpoint, just south of Kai Bae on Koh Chang the palm trees.
Further south, the island of Koh Phi Phi and the beaches around Krabi on the mainland are slowly but surely building a foothold on the tourist map and, although not as established as Phuket, they are geared up to welcome all visitors – from independent travellers to families – as is the more remote and charming island of Koh Lanta Yai further south.
The Gulf of Thailand In the Gulf of Thailand, on the other side of the Kra Isthmus, the most established destination is the island of Koh Samui; the other islands within the Samui Archipelago, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, are also popular tourist and diving destinations.
To the east of Bangkok, the beach resort of Pattaya bears little resemblance to the real Thailand and has a notorious reputation, but further east still there are several virtually untouched islands awaiting the adventurous traveller – Koh Chang, for instance, which is the country’s second largest island offers miles of beaches and unexplored forest along with its less developed neighbour, Koh Kut. 22 23 TrAvELLInG POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd trAvelling to and around Thailand Getting there the penalties are draconian. The allowances for the usual More than 50 international airlines serve the country with luxury goods – perfume, alcohol and the like – vary, so check daily direct flights to Bangkok from most major cities in them before departure. Please note that you are required to Europe, USA and Australia. There are also frequent flights bring a minimum amount of currency into the country which from all over South East Asia to Bangkok and Phuket. varies depending on your visa.
You can drive into Thailand from Malaysia and Laos – the Getting around latter journey takes you over the famous Thai-Laos Friendship For longer distances air travel is the easiest option and Bridge across the Mekong, at Nong Khai. If you are coming not prohibitively expensive. Nok Air and Thai Airways into the country from Singapore or Malaysia – and if you International both have extensive domestic networks; have a great deal of money to spare – think about the 34hr Bangkok Airways has a smaller one. Recent years have seen journey on the luxurious Eastern & Oriental Express, sister to deregulation of air travel in Thailand and a number of new the legendary Orient Express. low-cost domestic carriers. Reliability may be factor.
visas Thailand has a good rail service: the fares are inexpensive, People of most nationalities can obtain free visas, valid 30 timetables are usually adhered to, and the trains themselves days, on arrival at Bangkok International Airport and other are comfortable and clean – with four classes covering entry points; these will be issued only if you have a current four main lines; Northern, North-eastern, Southern and passport and ticket to take you out of the country at the end Eastern – so that you can choose between economy and air of your stay. Longer-stay visas are available, for a fee, from Thai conditioned luxury. One pitfall to avoid is that of not booking embassies and consulates around the world: specify whether early enough: on the trunk routes you should do so at least you want a transit visa (valid 30 days), a tourist visa (valid 60 a month in advance. The main railway station in Bangkok days) or a non-immigrant visa (valid 90 days and difficult to serving all destinations is Hua Lumphong Railway Station. obtain). If you have a tourist visa you can, once in Thailand, apply for a 30 day extension. If you plan to leave Thailand Long-distance buses are a cheaper alternative, but you take temporarily during your stay, you must obtain a re-entry visa, your life in your hands on one of these; the driving is often available from the Immigration Department in Bangkok. These atrocious. If you decide to risk it, opt for an air-conditioned rules are subject to change so check current regulations prior service; the comparatively small cost difference is worth it. In to departure remote areas you may be able to go to the opposite extreme – from air-conditioning to just plain air – by travelling on a Customs Songthaew. This is essentially an open-backed pick-up truck Customs are usually no trouble, unless you are carrying with a couple of wooden benches in the back. pornography, political propaganda, firearms, large amounts of cash (over $10,000), or illicit drugs – for possession of which Taxis, Tuk tuks (three-wheeled scooters) and pedal-tricycles operate in most parts of Thailand. You use these much as A day trip dive boat returns to Phuket you would use a taxi at home, except that they require you to negotiate a price before setting of – and remember to bargain. Do note that in many areas the drivers may not speak English, so, to avoid confusion, get your hotel receptionist to write down your destination in Thai so that you can show it to the driver. Ask at your hotel what a reasonable fare to the destination might be.
Alternatively, self-drive is an option and by law, an International driving license will need to be produced.
Money The unit of currency is the Thai Baht, which comprises 100 satang. All major credit cards are widely accepted. If you prefer travellers’ cheques, obtain them in either Sterling, Euros or US dollars. 24 25 TrAvELLInG to and around Thailand
Currency exchange can be done either at banks or, in the major tourist areas, at currency exchange counters. The larger hotels will also change money, but usually give a poor rate of exchange. Daily exchange rates are published in two English language newspapers — the Bangkok Post and the Nation.
Tipping The majority of major hotels include a service charge and local taxes, however a tip of 10-15 per cent for an appreciated service should be considered in restaurants and after liveaboard excursions.
Health No particular vaccinations or inoculations are officially required before you enter the country, unless you do so from an area where an infection is rife.
Check your route with your local consulate or embassy in case there are necessary inoculations. Ask to be protected against hepatitis A and B, tetanus, malaria and typhoid. Once in Thailand, do not drink tap water.
Venereal diseases – notably AIDS – are extremely prevalent so avoid casual liaisons. Rabies is likewise: If bitten by any animal, seek medical attention immediately.
The standard of medical services in Thailand is generally high – certainly in Bangkok and other big cities and in the major tourist centres. A note of warning: Even if you take anti- malarial tablets before travelling, it’s still possible to contract malaria, so if you feel feverish when you return home contact your doctor immediately and have a check-up, mentioning that you have been in Thailand.
Key facts Electricity: The supply is 220v AC 50Hz. Two-pin plugs with either round or flat pins are used, so carry an adaptor Mean temperatures: Air – 30-400C. Sea – 27-30C Time zone: GMT + 7hr Clothing: Lightweight clothes are most suitable. Long trousers guard ankles from mosquito bites during the evenings and are strongly recommended, as are waterproofs for long dive-boat journeys Diving agencies: Recreational – CMAS, PADI, SSI, some BSAC and NAUI. Technical – ANDI, IANTD and TDI. Diving gear: Included in the price of diving courses and some dive trips; the larger dive centres all provide a full rental service. OCEAN 28 TrAvELLInG to and around Thailand
Dialling codes The IDD for Thailand is: +66 To dial IDD from within Thailand, use 001 (or+)
Local dialling codes within Thailand need to be added for all calls, even those made within the same area. When calling from outside Thailand omit the prefix ‘0’.
Smaller islands have mobile phone numbers and are not on a network. Dialling codes within Thailand are: • bangkok 02 • Koh Samui, Koh Phangan & Koh Tao 077 • Phuket & Khao Lak 076 • Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi & Krabi 075 • Pattaya 038 • Koh Chang 039
Public holidays 2009 January 1 New Years Day October 23 Chulalongkorn April 6 Chakri Memorial Day Day April 13 – 15 Songkran november full moon Loi May 1 Labour Day Krathong May 5 Coronation Day December 5 HM The King’s May 8 Visakha Puja Birthday / Father’s Day July 1 Mid-year Day December 10 Constitution July 7 Buddist Lent Day August 12 HM The Queen’s December 31 New Year’s Birthday/Mother’s Day Eve
Chaweng beach on Koh Samui
30 See listing on Page 193 HEALTH & SAFETy for divers
ecompression Illnesses (DCI) or ‘the bends’, occurs when bubbles of gas are trapped inside the body of a diver. DSymptoms include muscle and joint pain, skin rashes, tingling sensations and in more serious cases neurological problems and even paralysis.
Initial symptoms can be very subtle but gradually worsen over time, and can occur within a few minutes to 48 hours after the dive. Thankfully DCI is extremely rare with only a small percentage of divers needing to be treated each year. Statistics show that only a very small fraction of the thousands who dive in Thailand every year are treated for DCI.
It’s important to remember that Decompression Illness can be difficult to diagnose and in many cases DCI symptoms are similar to a lot of other medical problems that don’t
32 HEALTH & SAFETy for divers
require treatment inside a hyperbaric chamber. This is why it’s important for an injured diver to visit a hospital to be completely checked out and diagnosed correctly.
If a diver has DCI then they will need to breathe oxygen under pressure in a hyperbaric chamber. This helps break down the bubbles of gas that are trapped in their body. The time they need to spend inside the chamber can vary between 2 to 5 or more hours depending on the severity of the symptoms. On average a patient needs to receive 2 treatments inside the chamber before their symptoms completely disappear.
DCI can be extremely expensive to treat, with the average cost around 189,000 Thai Baht per patient. In the majority of cases the diver will either have specific diving insurance, or travel insurance that will cover the cost of treatment. Unfortunately some travel insurance companies still classify diving as a high risk activity and as a result will not cover diving accidents. Regrettably the first time the patient is made aware of this is after they have been treated!
As a result the badalveda Diving Medicine network offers membership cards to individual divers that can provide extra protection in the unlikely event that an accident occurs. These cards cost only 300 Baht each and provide a discounted rate for hyperbaric treatment at all Badalveda Hyperbaric chambers in Thailand for a period of 1 year from the cards issue date.
Although Badalveda have their own membership cards, they advise divers to obtain personal insurance which includes coverage for diving. To find out more, visit www.dive-master.net For more information on Badalveda talk to your local dive centre or call the Diving Medicine Hotlines: +66 (0)81 989 9482, (0)86 272 4618.
Divers can call these numbers 24 hours a day for advice and assistance about diving injuries, evacuation services or general diving medicine questions, but please bear in mind that these are emergency contact numbers!
34 HEALTH & SAFETy for divers
There are a number of medical problems that affect a person’s fitness to dive. While someone may feel fine and maybe taking medication to treat an illness, it can be very difficult to determine what will happen when he or she is placed in a situation with increased pressure. Diving with a pre-existing medical condition may not only put the diver in danger, but also his or her dive partners.
It’s imperative always to answer truthfully on any diving medical questionnaire and be cleared by a doctor if there are any doubts. As a rough guide, any diver with the following conditions should consult a doctor before commencing a dive.
• Asthma • Epilepsy • Cardiovascular disease • History of lung injury or disease • High blood pressure / Hypertension • Middle air or chronic sinus problems • Gastrointestinal problems
It’s also important that divers receive clearance for any medication they may be taking. It can be extremely hazardous to dive with certain drugs in your system and you should always consult with a doctor specialising in diving before going ahead to dive.
36 HEALTH & SAFETy for divers
iving is a very safe activity, but as in all aspects of life, things can go wrong. Just as a skier can break a bone or Da general holidaymaker can get sick, a diver can fall foul of some problems.
Medical bills and equipment costs are often more than an individual can afford, so there is a need for specialist dive insurance. It’s true that many travel insurance policies cover diving, but these are modifications to general policies that were never designed for an activity as specialist as diving.
You were probably enticed into diving for its adventure and exploration, so it stands to reason that along with the equipment and training you buy specifically designed insurance.
Reputable dive insurance companies offer policies for all levels of diver and all sectors of the dive industry. After all, a company insuring the professionals of an industry is also going to make sure its policies for general divers are top notch.
These companies also update their policies regularly to keep up with current trends in travel and diving. One of the most recent updates for travellers to look for is diving day specific insurance that can be bought at the resort. This means even if you leave home with no intention of diving and therefore have no specific insurance, you can still cover yourself for the duration of your dive course or trip.
When buying insurance for diving don’t be seduced by the lowest price. Look at what the policy will cover you for. Read the policy details. Check the depth limit, the exclusions and the costs being paid out. If possible, check the reputation of the insurance company. A company that has been operating for a number of years is often a better bet.
Everyone wishes they didn’t have to have insurance and no one thinks something is going to happen to them, but the fact is, things do happen and a good insurance policy standing behind you will mean top quality treatment and first class service.
38 DIvInG & SnOrKELLInG POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd diving - introduction in and around Thailand hailand has much to offer the visiting diver and the Andaman Sea are uninhabited (apart from communities snorkeller. There is a vast range of exhilarating sites of of Chao Ley – ‘sea gypsies’), and are crowned by lush primary Tmany different kinds, providing something for both vegetation tumbling down to a shoreline punctuated by recreational and technical divers alike, regardless of their idyllic sandy beaches. qualification levels or experience. Most of the diving in this region is organized from the popular With over 2,000km of coastline and hundreds of offshore holiday island destination of Phuket, with a wide variety of islands, the variety is phenomenal, encompassing everything operators offering recreational and technical training, day from extensive fringing reefs to deep drop-offs and wrecks, trips, and liveaboard options. The best time for diving is dramatic granite walls, caves and tunnels, coral-covered between October and May. pinnacles, and open ocean seamounts. Spectacular hard and soft corals abound, and the marine life is prolific, ranging In general the Andaman Sea has more extensive coral reefs from minute and colourful reef dwellers to manta rays, sharks but similar visibility to the Gulf of Thailand, with most of and pelagic visitors such as giant barracuda, tuna, trevally the reefs around the offshore islands occurring on the east and the mighty whale shark. sides of the islands, due to the influence of the southwest monsoon; the west coasts tend to have rocky slopes With the Andaman Sea to the west and the Gulf of Thailand descending to 10-30m in depth. to the east, Thailand is unique in that it borders two distinct oceanic zones, each with their own peculiarities and marine Towards the northern end of the Thai coastline, a series of life. Many dive sites all around the coast share common granitic outcrops lie in deep, clear water with reefs descending species, but on others the underwater terrain and reef to 25-30m and beyond in depth. These are the Similan and communities show marked differences between the two Surin Islands, whose breathtaking underwater scenery and sides of the peninsula’s coastline. great diversity of marine life have gained them a considerable reputation in the diving community. Andaman Sea Extending from Myanmar down past the west coast of Given their proximity to Phuket, it is not surprising that these Thailand to beyond the Malaysian border, the Andaman Sea two island groups are among the country’s most popular forms part of the Indian Ocean. Many of the 155 islands in destinations for day trips and liveaboard excursions.
Anemonefish
42 43 DIvInG & SnOrKELLInG POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd diving - introduction in and around Thailand Further to the north in Myanmar is the Mergui Archipelago, The most southerly established dive sites in the country are recently opened to foreigners, offering real wilderness diving to the south of Koh Lanta. They feature pristine corals and over unusual underwater terrain, with the added attraction spectacular fringing reefs in potentially excellent visibility. of shark encounters. Here are some of the finest dive sites in the country, such as Hin Mouang, which features the deepest drop-off in Thailand, The coastline of Phuket itself offers little for the experienced with depths in excess of 70m, and Hin Daeng, one of the diver, although there are dive sites that can be (and are) used few remaining dive sites where both manta rays and whale for training and are also a good option if bad weather prevents sharks are regularly encountered. Another dive destination in boats getting to the better sites. the Andaman Sea that is still in its infancy is Mu Koh Tarutao Marine National Park (just north of the Malaysian border), These offshore sites are mostly to the south, and canbe where dugongs have been seen. reached by relatively short boat rides of between one and two hours. They are all well worth the journey, but two in The Gulf of Thailand particular (Shark Point and Anemone Reef) stand out as The Gulf of Thailand coast, at 1,840km well over twice as being special in terms of the abundance of marine life. long as the Andaman Sea coastline, follows a great parabola from the border with Malaysia on the south coast around to Further south, the coastline at Krabi offers shallow fringing Cambodia and the southwest tip of Vietnam. The Gulf itself reefs around impressive limestone formations (ranging in is a vast, shallow depression – generally less than 60m deep size from underwater pillars to whole islands). Some of the and reaching a maximum of 85m – which, while incredibly best snorkelling sites in the country are to be found here. productive, does not have continually great visibility.
Offshore, the Phi Phi islands, with their palm-fringed beaches, This is largely due to the turbid waters from river outlets being have been growing in popularity as a dive base for the last two trapped in the Gulf by an underwater shelf that stretches decades. This is not surprising as the local waters experience across the mouth of the Gulf from Malaysia to Vietnam. True great visibility complemented with a rich variety of corals and reefs do not occur further north than those found in the Ban marine life; shallow fringing and patch reefs are an added Krut area in Prachuap Khiri Khan Province, just over 300km attraction for snorkellers. south of Bangkok.
Dive boats at Koh Racha Yai There are 112 islands in the offshore waters of the Gulf, many with fringing reefs interspersed with rocks and soft seabed. Visibility around their shorelines tends to be better than the mainland, where inshore waters are affected not only by turbidity but by freshwater runoff and urban/industrial pollution. The offshore reefs have a lower diversity than the reefs of the Andaman Sea, but marine life is still prolific, with Indo-Pacific species predominating.
The closest good diving and snorkelling to the south of Bangkok is at Ban Krut. There are a number of very worthy dive sites following the fringing reefs of rocky outcrops and offshore islets. Both divers and snorkellers will find radiant hard and soft corals, colourful schools of reef fish and an exciting selection of visiting pelagics, including giant barracuda and whale sharks.
Some of the best dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand are around Koh Tao, 80km from the mainland. Sheer wall dives around submerged pinnacles, tunnels and archways carpeted with iridescent soft corals, pelagics (including sharks), and easy snorkelling from the beaches over impressive coral gardens are just some of the highlights of Koh Tao. 46 47 DIvInG & SnOrKELLInG in and around Thailand Koh Phangan, 47km south of Koh Tao, is a Bohemian paradise. The fringing reefs around the island are of limited appeal, but two sites to the north – Sail Rock and Samran Pinnacles – are truly world-class, spectacular wall dives, acting as a magnet for numerous schools of pelagics.
Koh Samui, further south, has a well developed tourist infrastructure and some enjoyable dive sites on its fringing reefs. Visibility around Koh Samui is only slightly better than that around Koh Phangan, and most people use it as a convenient (and fun) base from which to dive sites to the north of Koh Phangan or around Koh Tao.
Further to the south, the clear waters around Koh Losin, located above the Malaysian border, are occasionally dived from liveaboard excursions and are a great place for encountering manta rays, whale sharks and large schools of trevally.
Working eastwards from Bangkok, Pattaya has a well developed dive industry for both recreational and technical divers. The better dive sites here are located around the ‘Far Islands’ group, offering fringing reefs of hard and soft corals and a selection of four enjoyable wrecks. Pattaya’s dive sites also include the islands and islets off the small fishing village of Samaesan 17kms further south.
Thailand’s easternmost diving and snorkelling area covers the waters around and to the south of Koh Chang, in Trat province. This is an up and coming destination and one well worth visiting. Aside from a great diversity of dive sites including reefs, walls and pinnacles the associated marine life is as diverse as it is high and includes regular encounters with all sizes of marine life from minute invertebrates up to enormous whale sharks.
Diving seasons The weather on either side of the Kra Isthmus and diving conditions in the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand are dominated by two opposing monsoons, the northeast and southwest monsoons. The northeast monsoon sweeps across the Gulf of Thailand between mid October and mid December, bringing heavy rain and strong winds – some dive sites become inaccessible during this time as they suffer from strong currents and reduced visibility. It’s during this period that many tourists switch, as if by magic, to the west coast.
Those that stay on in the Gulf during this short time will find themselves on nearly empty beaches, with the sun regularly appearing from behind the clouds. An anomaly is that the easternmost diving regions in Trat province remain sheltered during this period. 48 DIvInG & SnOrKELLInG POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd diving - introduction in and around Thailand The Andaman Sea is sheltered from the worst effects of the Dive operators northeast monsoon, and diving and snorkelling is at its best There are many top-notch dive centres in both the Andaman from November to April. Underwater visibility ranges from 5m Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. PADI and SSI are the main to 30m or more during this period. From May to October the certification agencies, in both recreational and technical southwest monsoon strikes this region, bringing in its wake diving tuition. There are also a number of BSAC, CMAS and towering seas and strong currents and increased turbidity. NAUI training facilities along with IANTD, ANDI and TDI for the ‘Tekkies’. Entry-level courses through to Instructor Conversely, the dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand are at their programmes and specialties like cave diving and underwater best during this season, with only minimal winds and light photography are widely available. showers to disturb the tranquillity of the beaches and seas. Visibility can sometimes equal that of the Andaman Sea Most of the larger and better-established dive operators during this period. There are always dive sites on either maintain their equipment to high standards, with a good side of the Isthmus that are sheltered enough to be dived selection of sizes. BCDs, masks, fins, regulator and pressure whatever the weather so, if you find in the wrong place at the consoles are obtainable everywhere; however, wetsuits, wrong time, don’t despair! diving computers and underwater cameras are generally only available at the more established facilities. Water temperatures in Thailand generally range from 27˚C to 31˚C. A thin wetsuit or lycra suit is recommended, not simply renting equipment for protection from exposure but also as a barrier to marine When you rent equipment − for your own safety and hazards such as stinging cells which can be present. Oceanic comfort − you should remember to check the following: sites (such as the Similans and the Burma Banks) are subject buoyancy Control Device (bCD) to sudden cold currents or thermoclines which can chill the • Select the correct size. The last thing you want is a water by up to 10˚C and, although these temperature dips BCD that restricts your breathing because it is too tight. are localized, most divers still prefer to don 3-4mm wetsuits Conversely, if it is too large, you may feel you are about to for thermal protection. slip out of it. • Select a style or make that you are familiar with and take Blue ribbon eel into consideration belts, buckles and fastenings. • Check there are no leaks. • Ensure that the low-pressure inflator connector is securely tightened. • Ensure that both the deflator and power inflator buttons function correctly and do not stick. Mask • Ensure the mask fits correctly and does not leak. • Check the skirt for damage or tears. • Check the strap for signs of wear and tear. Bear in mind that if you lose the mask you might have to pay for it. • Ask for an optical mask if required. Some larger operators carry a wide selection of prescription lenses. regulators • Check ease of breathing through both regulators. • Ensure regulators mouthpieces are in good condition and that the bite lobes are okay. • Purge regulator before putting it in your mouth – in the tropics, you never know what might have crawled inside! • Check the pressure gauge; satisfy yourself that it does not stick. Fins and booties • Be careful to get the size right: too small can result in cramp, too large and they may fall off. 50 51 LEArnInG TO DIvE POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd leArning to dive in Thailand
here’s never been a better time to learn to dive!” you All the top training agencies are omni-present in Thailand and, seem to hear it everywhere around Thailand these wherever there’s diving, there will be dive centres affiliated “Tdays; in coastal resorts, on boats during passages to to one of them. Training mainly comes ‘The Professional coral fringed tropical islands and even in the larger cities! Association of Diving Instructors’ (PADI) and ‘Scuba Schools International’ (SSI), followed by the British Sub Aqua Club But when talking about taking that memorable first breath (BSAC) in third place. CMAS and NAUI are here too, but with underwater, the sales pitch is not only inaccurate, it can be a much smaller presence. seen as intimidating − to say the least. A much better approach is: “It’s always a great time to learn to dive in Thailand.” Why? Starting slowly Simple. The water is clear and warm and filled with exciting Not everyone feels comfortable or has the time to jump adventures and creatures to meet and explore. Golden in at the deep end and enrol in a multi-day commitment opportunities arise all year round and your dive course will be without first getting a taste of the fun. But not to worry as, fun and relaxing without the hustle and bustle of city life. in appreciation of this, the major training agencies offer non-certified experience programmes. These are still under What with great training facilities and calm and warm waters the guidance of a qualified dive professional and obviously complemented by a second-to-none diversity of marine life, follow the highest of safety standards. all readily available in many picture-postcard destinations, this has to be one of the world’s top places to learn, continue Experiences range from taking that first breath underwater learning or even create a career based around the planet’s in a swimming pool or just off the beach, to going on a dive fastest growing recreational pastime of scuba diving. with an instructor in the open ocean. No corners are cut and training covers all the basic skills needed to submerge and Instruction is available in a number of forms, from freelance ascend safely. The only difference between these experience instructors providing a small and personal service up to programmes and a certifying course is that, after completion, five-star training centres with self-contained resort facilities you must still be accompanied by a diving professional at all offering career development services allowing those who times and you cannot dive anywhere else. The advantage want to learn to choose the style that best suits them. is that the course takes a short time and, even better, your experience may count toward your certification (depending Learning to dive is not something that can be self-taught. on the training agency) and you’ll be more than ready to sign Instruction is essential and standard safety practices need up for a certifying course when time permits. to be applied and upheld throughout, no matter the size of operation. Thankfully this is the case in Thailand. There are For the family also a number of award-winning facilities around the country As the interest and participation in scuba is on the increase, proudly displaying their credentials − fine role models for images of black rubber-clad men immersing themselves others to follow. in the abyss, whilst groups of ladies anxiously look on, are
Students prepare to descend for the first time An instructor takes care of a pair of entry level divers
52 53 LEArnInG TO DIvE POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd leArning to dive in Thailand
thankfully a vision of the past; nowadays the ladies are more likely to be buddies! Diving couples have been coming to Originating in the UK, the bSAC enjoy the tropical waters here for some time, some so regularly was formed in 1953, making it that they’re now being accompanied by their families. the world’s largest dive club, with 1,000s of branches and over 33,000 members worldwide, And the youngsters are not left out at all. PADI’s ‘Bubble Maker’ making it one of the most experienced diving agencies. and ‘Seal Team’, along with SSI’s ‘Scuba Ranger’, programmes The ethos of the BSAC is to train divers to a level where give boys and girls aged eight years upwards the opportunity, they are competent to dive in UK waters. Courses are under professional guidance, to enjoy an exciting scuba comprehensive in their content, but this doesn’t mean experience whilst learning some cool underwater tricks into they are any more difficult to complete. the bargain. Programmes last around an hour or two in the safe surroundings of a swimming pool or similar water conditions Over the last few years the BSAC has been steadily growing in a protected area, and are a great way to get the youngsters throughout Asia. There are now currently 11 BSAC centres hooked, either with or without their parents in tow! These in Thailand located both on the east and west coasts. fabulous introductions to the underwater world are a great way for kids to share valuable learning experiences, whilst To learn more about the BSAC visit: www.bsac.com meeting new friends along the way, and are widely available PADI was founded in 1966. It is the world’s in all of Thailand’s diving destinations. largest recreational diving membership Convenience organisation. The membership includes dive businesses, resort facilities, academic Thailand flaunts a comprehensive range of dive centres and institutions, instructor trainers, dive services, the majority in the southern provinces, but with educators, divers, snorkellers and other several in Pattaya and Koh Chang too. There’s also a small water sports enthusiasts. selection in Bangkok (generally branches or booking offices). Having a city base is particularly useful for providing academic Professional PADI members teach the vast majority of and shallow in-water tuition to the local community or to those the world’s recreational divers, issuing approximately that have not yet reached their intended diving destination a million certifications every year, whilst maintaining and are taking their time checking out the city sights first. the highest industry standards for dive training, safety The one factor these dive centres all have in common is the and customer service. The total number of PADI dive equally impressive selection of courses they offer. centres and resorts (IRRA Members) located worldwide is approximately 5,300, with over 1,000 of these in the Asia- For those working in full-time jobs and therefore tied up Pacific region and over 250 located in Thailand. during office hours, knowledge development training can be completed on line and practical training can be completed For more about PADI, visit: www.padi.com SSI is a worldwide diver certification In the classroom agency and educational support organisation and is recognised as an innovative leader in diver education. Founded in 1970, SSI provides state-of- the-art training programmes, standards and materials for all levels of diver education. Courses are flexible, allowing instructors to tailor training to individual students’ needs. Permanent certification cards are issued at the dive centre on completion of courses, which is handy for long term travellers. The first SSI regional centre in South East Asia opened in 1983 and is currently one of over 2,000 facilities in over 90 countries. For more about SSI in Thailand, visit: www.ssithailand.com
58 59 LEArnInG TO DIvE POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd leArning to dive in Thailand
in the evenings or over a weekend, whichever is most alongside those in other popular diving destinations around convenient. Once the required skills and knowledge have the world. Very few compare favourably to Thailand. been mastered, students can then be referred to an affiliated branch or dive centre to complete the open water sections Courses of the course, or any other uncompleted part of it for that At the end of the day, whichever training agency you adopt, matter! they all operate to high safety standards.
Continuation does not need to be done immediately but there Entry level courses introduce students to the underwater is a timescale involved; the instructor will advise how long the environment and how to comfortably adapt to the new- completed training is valid for before it would need repeating. found surroundings, how to use the unfamiliar equipment On a broader scale, this popular option of splitting the training and above all else – how to dive safely and relax. (known as a referral) over more than one destination is available internationally. On successful completion the newly certified divers are qualified to dive unaccompanied by a diving professional, in As long as all the training is completed within the designated the same conditions and to the maximum depth experienced period and successful completion of the initial training can during training. However, with the great selection of dive be proved, students from literally anywhere in the world centres around, you have the choice of joining any number can complete their courses here, taking advantage of what of daily trips with the option of dives being led by trained diving in Thailand has to offer, without committing to a full diving professionals. course during their stay. There’s no extra charge for this service as it’s included as However, the majority of visitors opt to do the whole course standard in the dive trip price and it’s a great way to build here – a sensible decision, as prices are extremely competitive confidence and familiarity for novice divers. Plus, if you don’t
Students repeating safety skills in the ocean (photo courtesy of SSI Thailand) Learning to dive is a fun experience (photo courtesy of PADI)
64 65 LEArnInG TO DIvE POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd leArning to dive in Thailand
have a buddy, one will be provided for you. So now you’ve ‘Enriched Air Diver’. After all, dives are not likely to be cut learnt to dive in warm and inviting waters, are seeing things short or be few and far between due to cold conditions! you once could only dream of and are rapidly making new The list of speciality topics is endless; there are even special friends – not a bad start really. It’s no wonder diving is so courses that have been individually written to suit the very popular! surroundings. Just ask at the dive centre to find out what’s on offer! But don’t expect to get signed up for any ice diving! The next step is to fine-tune those skills already learned, and be introduced to new ones. Advanced diving courses are Next on the list are rescue courses which should seriously really great underwater adventures. Even though the term be mandatory for every diver. Course topics covered include ‘advanced’ may imply they are demanding and stressful – in self-rescue, problem management and how to help divers in reality they are quite the opposite. stressful situations and, better still, how to avoid them in the first place. Safety and fun are high on the agenda and the results are extremely rewarding. In fact, it’s surprising they aren’t As any diver will know, you never dive without a buddy! compulsory, especially as some dive sites are restricted to But are you both actually capable of looking after each divers certified as advanced and above. other? If not, then learn! The rescue diver courses are great value in Thailand and are just as comprehensive as they There’s a stream of associated speciality courses that open up are anywhere else in the world. Certification requires CPR the chance to take the knowledge learned during advanced and First Aid training, which is also available alongside the training to an even more in-depth level. Thailand’s tropical course. In a nutshell, what you learn is all you need to know waters make particular courses extremely attractive; for in order to look after yourself and others, both under the instance, the warm waters are more appealing to deep and water and on the surface during everyday life. So you might night diving enthusiasts; the water has been exposed to high as well learn in comfort and at a good price. levels of warming sunlight during the day, thus reducing the likelihood of uncomfortable chilly encounters. The highest level of recreational diver certification is ‘Master Scuba Diver’ or equivalent, depending on the training The generally high water clarity opens up splendid vistas of agency’s certification title. To achieve this rating, or status, colourful reefs and curious inhabitants, making ideal subject divers need to complete all the above courses and be certified matter for underwater photographers and videographers, in a pre-determined number of different specialities, as well as two more popular choices of speciality dive courses on offer have completed a designated number of dives. There’s also a at many of Thailand’s dive centres. ‘Junior Master Scuba Diver’ rating for the over 12 year olds!
With such enjoyment on the cards, divers may wish to Thailand also provides a comprehensive range of technical increase their safety levels and obtain the qualification of diving courses, from using enriched air up to diving on
Success - another happy qualified diver (photo courtesy of PADI) Underwater navigation is an invaluable skill to master (photo courtesy of SSI Thailand)
70 71 Photo by Mark Strickland LEArnInG TO DIvE POCKET GUIDE dive thAilAnd leArning to dive in Thailand
mixed gases and cave diving. The use of rebreathers is also becoming more common. Without this type of training, a number of Thailand’s wrecks and deep reefs would be inaccessible to divers. Both PADI and SSI provide such courses, as do a handful of training agencies that are solely dedicated to technical diving.
becoming a Professional Job done and it’s time to consider the world of the professional diver and, yes, this does actually mean getting paid to go diving and getting the chance to get all the cash invested in the courses back again – several times over!
The entry level course is the ‘Dive Master’ or, depending on training agency, ‘Dive Leader’. These are extremely popular in Thailand. Courses run over a number of days and can be
Gearing up for a rebreather training dive
Paul Lees - Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand author Becoming a professional diver opens up a wide variety of opportunities 76 77 LEArnInG TO DIvE POCKET GUIDE dive thailandthAilAnd leArning to dive in Thailand
taught over a longer period, thus allowing participants to gain Many operators include complimentary accommodation some work experience along the way. As the whole focus of for the duration of a diving course, especially for beginners. the qualification is based around taking care and control of However, a number of the larger centres have taken things others, rather than just to display a badge of completion, this one step further and created tailor-made internship packages is a great way to learn. And, with plenty of places in which do which, in some cases, include everything needed to sign up a course, it’s a popular option indeed. as a non-diver and leave as a qualified diving professional complete with a job, either locally or in another country! Setting up a temporary base in one of the diving destinations is not really a problem − more of a dream. The weather’s good, These packages can also be joined at anytime during a the food tasty, the social life usually relaxed and friendly − diver’s career, no matter where they are qualification-wise; and prices for everything are reasonable. In fact, the perfect and, as they can include equipment and accommodation in conditions in which take the next step of qualifying to be a the overall ‘package’, it’s a great opportunity to focus on the diving instructor. matter in hand without all the worry of having to plan day- to-day expenses and practicalities. There are several levels of instructor, with the top of the ladder being a ‘Course Director’, who trains divers to be The standard of training is high, as is the essential advice on instructors. Course Directors cannot certify instructors how to survive in the diving industry after completion. Once though; this has to be done by examiners from the training again, these centres are situated in all of the country’s diving agencies themselves, who are flown in from all over the destinations. world. Instructor courses, termed as Instructor Development Courses, or IDCs for short, are scheduled on a regular basis, In fact the only thing difficult about learning to dive in as are the Instructor Examinations (IE). Thailand is deciding where to sign up!
An instructor takes a pair of students through their pre-dive ‘Buddy Check’
82 83 A minute anemone crab peers out between the stinging tentacles of its host sea anemone POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - phuket Phuket
1
2 3 5 4 6 7
8
9
10 Creative Innovation 11 Above & Below 12
the Water Thailand’s largest island, Phuket, is the second most developed (after Pattaya) of the country’s tourist destinations. The island is separated from the mainland by a narrow bridged strait. The island’s west and south coastlines are liberally sprinkled with beaches, many of them long, curving Dive World (Thailand) Co. Ltd. arcs of golden sand with mounds of boulders separating them from the neighbouring beaches. With an international Authorised Cressi Dealer & Wholesaler airport and good transport links to the rest of the country, Head Office Bangkok: Phuket makes a good base for exploring further afield or as Tel: 027 139 151-3 Fax: ext 4 the jumping-off point for other popular destinations such as Khao Lak, Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta. Email: [email protected] Krabi Office: Diving around Phuket Tel: 080 533 8772 Phuket is the largest dive centre in Thailand and the main base for liveaboards heading for destinations in the Email: [email protected] Andaman Sea. For those not having the free time to join a www.diveworld-thailand.com 93 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - phuket Phuket dive boat to the sites further afield, all is not lost as there are 4 Koh Dok Mai a few good dive sites off the shores of Phuket Island itself. Location: 10km west of Shark Point. These local sites also open up opportunities for night diving Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 31m and polishing up those diving skills. The east side of the island offers a wall rich in invertebrates and a good representation of tube corals. There are large Conditions improve considerably around the outcrops, moray eels, black-banded sea kraits, honeycomb groupers islets and islands off the south of Phuket; the currents here and angelfish, and you’ve a good chance of seeing leopard carry away algae and silt and the corals have more chance sharks out on the sand. Bivalves cling to sea whips along the of flourishing. The reefs are generally in a healthy condition deeper sections of the wall, which also features two caves. with good hard, as well as colourful soft, corals. Marine life is The walls and ceiling of the larger one are rich in soft corals, plentiful, with visits from large pelagics adding spice to the but it’s best to remain outside, exploring the cave’s interior diving. Some sites are quite deep with ripping currents often safely by torch light. The western side of the island features present, but there are plenty of other locations suitable for all a steeply sloping reef rather than the sheer drops that levels of both recreational and technical divers. dominate elsewhere. Black-tip and white-tip reef sharks can be seen. There are healthy sea fans and barrel and encrusting 1 Meridien Reef sponges. Visiting pelagics often pass by. Location: Between Patong and Karon Beaches. Depth: Average 7m / Maximum 18m 5 Anemone Reef This site has comparatively few hard and soft corals and fish- Location: 30km east of Chalong Bay on Phuket. life is only sporadically present – although you might discover Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 26m a blue-spotted ribbontail ray hiding beneath one of the rocks, Anemone Reef is a small submerged rocky plateau about 4-7m and very occasionally may encounter a small white-tip reef deep at the shallowest parts. The top of the reef is smothered shark. However, the site is a very good one for training or for in sea anemones; there are many resident clownfish, shrimps introducing new divers to scuba: students can concentrate on and porcelain crabs. Elsewhere you find large clusters of soft learning to dive, without their attention being distracted by corals and enormous gorgonian sea fans – the latter sheltering deep waters, strong currents or too many fish! dense groupings of Indian lionfish. There’s a healthy cross- section of marine life. At its deepest point a solitary rock is 2 Kata House Reef home to a number of juvenile moray eels. Location: Western end of Kata Beach. Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 12m 6 Shark Point Entry to the site off the beach brings you to the fringing Location: 1km southeast of Anemone Reef. reef, at a depth of 5m. As you follow it around the headland Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 24m the depth gradually increases to 12m. This is a training and This site was named for the leopard sharks that are often found introduction site similar to meridian reef, but shallower either resting on the sandy sections around the perimeter of and slightly more enjoyable. Barracuda, tuna, and trevally the main structure or freely swimming around the surrounding are often present. The reef just breaks the surface in low waters. Three pinnacles are dense with colourful marine water. Blue-spotted ribbontail rays and white-tip reef sharks are sometimes seen. Reef-fish are present but tend to be Hawkfish scattered over the area rather than dominating particular areas. The site is accessible during inclement weather conditions and suitable for night-diving enthusiasts.
3 Koh Pu Location: Approx 1km west of Kata House Reef. Depth: Average 18m / Maximum 24m The island is fringed with fallen rocks; these are larger around the northwest area, and are the main feature of the site. The gaps between some of the rocks offer swim-throughs; beneath the rocks are heaps of broken oyster shells, obscure nudibranchs and a few cowrie shells. There are no pelagics or big fish of note, but you’re likely to see small schools of fusiliers and snappers, moorish idols, squirrelfish and rabbitfish. 94 95 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - phuket Phuket life, from impressive sea fans to honeycomb groupers, of encountering mating cuttlefish along with a greater display vivid encrusting sponges, moray eels, lobsters, lionfish and of reef creatures, including good-sized titan triggerfish, moray harlequin ghost pipefish. Slightly to the west of the northern eels and octopus; plus on a smaller scale, a better selection of pinnacle is a large, spectacular arch saturated in the brilliant colourful fish and invertebrates. Leopard sharks and hawksbill colours of the soft corals growing on its surfaces. The reefs turtles are occasionally seen around this coastline. here also display bushy black corals, sea whips and gorgonian sea fans, with barracuda, snapper, trevally and mackerel all 11 Koh Racha Noi – Northern tip patrolling the fringes. Location: Approximately two hours from Chalong Bay. Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 30m 7 King Cruiser Wreck A reasonable multi-level dive site, which takes divers around Location: 1 km southeast of Anemone Reef. pinnacles and large rocks. There’s a fair display of hard and Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 32m soft corals and the usual reef-fish are present in reasonable In 1997 the King Cruiser, a car ferry operating between Phuket quantities. If you’re lucky you should be able to sight small and Koh Phi Phi, bottomed on Anemone Reef, splitting it in reef sharks, but the main attraction is probably the presence two. The impact also tore a large hole in the vessel’s hull. of large bullethead parrotfish. However, diving here can be The sunken vessel attracts a high diversity of marine life; extremely hazardous because of the hostile currents under invertebrates have taken up residence and juvenile reef fish no circumstances should this site be attempted by any but hover around the now barnacle-encrusted frame. Daylight experienced divers. penetrates the majority of the wreck, though there are some areas that can only be explored with an artificial light source. 12 Koh Racha Noi – Southern tip Beware that quite a few areas have collapsed ceilings – these Location: Just over two hours from Bay Chalong Bay. should not be entered at all. Depth: Average 23m / Maximum 40m+ This is a great dive for experienced divers – in fact, good 8 Coral island operators will bring only divers of advanced level and above! Location: Outer of two islands south of Chalong Bay. The underwater terrain is similar to that around the island’s Depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m northern tip, but much deeper – the shallowest part of The south of the island is the best area to dive at this primarily any consequence is at 18m. Fine soft corals highlight the training site, not only in terms of safety (no threat from erratic smooth-sided boulders. Crinoids and featherstars are well jetskiers!) but also because there’s a more diverse presence represented. There are fairly plentiful, reasonably sized of marine life, plus it displays the healthiest corals which are fish, including lionfish, parrotfish, wrasse and triggerfish, as mainly foliaceous interspersed with bubble, staghorn and star. well as large visiting pelagics such as barracuda, rainbow runners and trevally. Manta and marbled rays are frequently 9 Koh Racha Yai – Bungalow Bay seen here, as are whale sharks – although with slightly less Location: 90 minutes from Chalong Bay. regularity. All in all, this site can be compared with some sites Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 30m found around Mu Koh Similan Marine National park. This site can be split; you can opt to follow either of the bay’s shorelines. The rocky formations visible above the surface SHARK PoiNt MARiNe SANCtuARY continue underwater, with a good presence of reef-fish. Shark Point Marine Sanctuary consists of Shark Point Around the rocks swim surgeonfish and fusiliers, while below and Anemone Reef, 1km to the north-west. Since 1997 you can see inquisitive paired goatfish, nudibranchs, urchins it has included the wreck of the King Cruiser car ferry. and plenty of blue-spotted ribbontail rays. Designated a Marine Sanctuary in 1992, the sheer 10 Koh Racha Yai – eastern Coast profusion of marine life here is justification enough for Location: 90 minutes from Chalong Bay. protected status. The marine park zone covers a radius Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 22m of 2.5km around the western limit of Shark Point and This is a popular diving destination and is suitable for all levels all commercial fishing, collecting of marine life, or other of diver. There’s also enjoyable snokelling around the rocks harmful activity is prohibited. in the shallow waters off the island’s coastline. The shallower Official mooring buoys have been installed but if they sections of the reef feature tables and smaller examples are in use (which is often the case, given the popularity of leaf corals; the deeper waters have similar species, but of these sites), divers must execute a live-boat dive. On larger. There are many featherstars, lionfish, puffers and a few no account should anchors be dropped here. parrotfish and wrasse. The site’s southern end has the bonus 96 97 DiReCtoRY POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - khao lak Phuket khao Lak two full tanks, weight system and – if required – Divemaster services. Equipment rental and Nitrox fills can be extra. Divers who have been out of the water for over six months either follow a refresher course or accompany an instructor during their first dive; there’s a minimal charge for this important Page 129 and necessary service. Page 130 Liveaboard excursions Many divers come to Phuket for the selection of liveaboard excursions, giving access to far-off dive sites. Excursion styles differ, but all share high standards. Prices include diving, meals/snacks and accommodation, but not alcoholic Page 128 beverages or scuba equipment.
Hospitals Bangkok Phuket Hospital, in Phuket City 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 254425 Page 128 Phuket international Hospital, on by-pass road, between Tesco Lotus & Central Festival Emergency Ambulance: Tel. +66 (0)76 210935 Recompression chambers Badalveda Diving Medicine Network in Bangkok Page 122 Hospital Phuket, Phuket City Diving Medicine Hotlines Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482, +66 (0)86 272 4618 [email protected] | www.badalveda.com Khao Lak Marine National Park boasts 12km of casuarinas and Hyperbaric Services of thailand, in Phuket International palm fringed coastline. Behind the glorious beaches are palm Hospital and rubber plantations, which continue to meet green foothills Hotline Tel. +66 (0)89 871 2335 and mountainous terrain divided by cascading waterfalls.
Dive courses One thing that sets Khao Lak aside from many other seaside Local diver training follows BSAC, CMAS, PADI and SSI systems. destinations is that you don’t have to cross a road to reach The majority of internationally-recognised certifications are the beach! Tourism is slowly but surely taking off here, accepted in any of the dive centres; certification cards and log particularly for divers, which is hardly surprising as some of books will be requested. The course price structures are mostly the county’s best diving is right on its doorstep. the same at different operators. The open water sections of the courses can be completed locally or amalgamated with a Diving around Khao Lak liveaboard excursion. The majority of diving offered visits the sites around the Mu Koh Similan and Surin Marine National Parks. However there Generally prices are inclusive of instruction, study materials, are a few local sites, including a recently discovered reef that equipment, dive trips and certification. Introduction courses is still to be properly explored. include full equipment, whereas other courses are inclusive of tanks and weight systems only. Additional equipment can be There are also a couple of wrecks of tin mining boats; the rented from all centres at a discounted price. You’ll need two ‘Boonsong’ lies just off the coast and can be a real treat to passport sized photographs for certification in all courses. dive. All manner of marine life can be encountered from tiny and endemic nudibranchs up to, on the odd occasion, whale For more information on Phuket, contact Tourism Authority of sharks. The second wreck, the ‘Premchai’, lies upside down Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036 but remains in one piece allowing penetration. 112 113 DiReCtoRY POCKET GUIDE dive thailand directory - khao lak Khao Lak
How to get there Dive facilities Khao Lak can be reached directly by road and indirectly by air. Scuba diving here is very popular. To cater for the high demand there’s is a string of dive centres along the main highway, Phuket, the main gateway to the area, is a 90-minute drive many of which have booking offices or their own facilities in away. Phuket’s international airport is directly accessible from the larger hotels and resorts. Several centres provide their most neighbouring countries, or via Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi own, or can arrange, transfers to and from Phuket and Krabi. International Airport. Domestic flights are also scheduled between Phuket and Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport. Dive trips Both daily trips and multi-day liveaboard excursions visit By air: A few budget airlines serve the Bangkok–Phuket route the sites around Mu Koh Similan and Surin Marine National but their timetables change regularly. There are also direct Parks as well as the local wrecks and the Mergui Archipelago. flights between Koh Samui and Pattaya. The three main All trips include transfers to and from resorts, tanks, weight carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; system and Divemaster services, light refreshments and from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5678. Nok Air: Within beverages. Day trips include lunch. Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. Hospitals & Recompression Chambers By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok’s Bangkok Phuket Hospital has a permanent ambulance Southern Bus Terminal daily to the bus terminal in Phuket stationed in Khao Lak which serves the area. Tel. 1719 City. Trip time is around 14 hours. At Phuket City bus terminal The nearest recompression chambers are those on visitors may continue their journeys by taxi or local bus, unless Phuket. For details see page 112. a pick-up by their dive operator has been arranged. For further information on bus services contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. Dive courses The full range of PADI and SSI programmes, up to and Where to eat including the professional level of Instructor, are available and The majority of local hotels and resorts have their own eateries in several languages. Prices generally include instruction, study with international and local menus. However, those wishing materials, equipment, dive trips and certification. The in-water to sample the local fare outside of these will find a range of sections of the courses can be completed during day trips or worthy bakeries, restaurants, coffee shops and snack bars amalgamated with a liveaboard excursion. The majority of along the main highway running parallel to the beach. internationally-recognised certifications are accepted in any of the dive centres; certification cards and log books will be For best information and insight on where and what to eat, requested as proof of certification and experience. see Pocket Guide FooD thailand − launching first quarter of PG 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com For more information on Khao Lak, contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036.
Bang Niang beach, Khao Lak
120 121 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand Mu Koh Similan
1 2 3
4
5 11
6 10
7
8
9
This archipelago of nine granitic islands sits 90km northwest of Phuket. The islands cover an area of about 128 sq km. They feature lush rainforests inhabited by squirrels and bats, and a variety of bird-life.
There are two staffed park offices (on Islands #4 and #8), but otherwise the islands are uninhabited.
Two dive sites around the northern islands of Koh Bon and Koh Tachai are also included in this section.
A noticeable characteristic of the Similans is the contrast between the east and west coastlines. The east is subject to the relatively gentle north-easterly monsoons, and features superb sandy beaches and sheltered bays. The western coasts, however, experience the full force of the harsh south- westerly monsoons and are more commonly characterized by rugged weather-beaten boulders, a pattern that continues underwater. 122 See listing on Page 102 123 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - mu koh similan Mu Koh Similan 1 North Point Diving around the Similans Location: The northern apex of island #9. The Similans can certainly lay claim to being one of the Asia Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 34m Pacific’s top dive destinations. The dramatic underwater The walls and sides of large boulders are highlighted by terrain is highlighted by thriving reefs and abundant soft radiant soft corals. Around these are numerous parrotfish of corals, and the tremendous diversity of marine life includes all sizes, small dog-faced pufferfish and larger solitary clown many of the more exciting, larger pelagics. triggerfish. Sharing the area are mixed amounts of leafy, brain, slipper and lip corals. Further down, giant sea cucumbers and During late March and early April, Thailand’s hottest period, blue seastars decorate the rocky surfaces. The prolific fish- rising sea temperatures cause plankton blooms, which attracts life includes varieties of butterflyfish, parrotfish, lionfish and a wealth of the larger animals into the area, resulting in wrasse. To the north, manta rays and barracuda are frequent. chance encounters with, amongst others, schooling chevron barracuda, giant trevally, rainbow runners and reef sharks. 2 Breakfast Bend There’s also a selection of rays including eagle, marbled and Location: South-eastern apex of island #9. enormous but graceful manta. Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 34m Breakfast Bend is so-called because it is generally the first In general, the east-facing dive sites feature gently dive on a live-aboard excursion – after breakfast! The western sloping reefs and drop-offs with impressive gardens of sea section is relatively shallow, averaging 8m; its sandy bottom anemones, flourishing hard and soft corals, and teeming fish is punctuated with scattered rocks. Southeast of here are populations. With negligible currents and mostly moderate the beginnings of a reef flat, primarily staghorns; these depths, these sites are suitable for any level of diver. The eventually achieve garden-like proportions. They are bigger sheltered conditions are also ideal for snorkelling. but much less frequent on the steep reef-slope.
The archipelago’s western sites are quite the opposite. Here The reef-slope – also formed by small boulders and coral giant boulders tumble down to the seabed in depths of 40m shelves, with many branches of tree, leafy and brain corals. or more. Currents have kept the gaps between the boulders Moorish idols, raccoon butterflyfish and Indian lionfish – free from build-ups of sand, leading to the development of paired rather than solitary – are all present en masse. Colonies tunnels, archways and caverns that provide exciting swim- of garden eels can be seen on the sandy patches. The seabed throughs. The currents also provide nutrients for masses of has widespread coral mounds. gorgonians, crinoids, sea fans and lush soft corals. 3 Donald Duck Bay The Similans are dived as both multi-day liveaboard Location: In the small sheltered bay on the northwest coast excursions and daily dive trips, scheduled from Phuket and of island #8. Khao Lak. For details of dive centres, see pages 98 and 114. Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 14m A popular night diving site. Scattered coral mounds and Fire goby boulders provide sleeping quarters for a host of marine life, but their formation forces the nocturnal creatures into areas of open sand in search of sustenance. Thus night-divers can observe them with much greater ease and frequency and in larger numbers. Attracted by the lights of dive boats, cuttlefish and squid are often everywhere. Crabs, small lobsters and a wealth of other invertebrates scurry across the sand at night.
4 Beacon Beach Location: The reef spans the length of the south-eastern coastline of island #8, about 200m offshore. Depth: Average 12-18m / Maximum 34m The reef-flat is in just over 5m and features many small boulders of lesser star and brain corals, interspersed with familiar clusters of staghorns, all rich in colourful reef-fish like damsels, wrasse, parrotfish and surgeonfish, as well as large numbers of inquisitive triggerfish. 124 125 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - mu koh similan Mu Koh Similan To the north are areas of foliaceous corals, such as lettuce 7 east of eden and carnation, with many colourful reef-fish: bird and lunar Location: South-eastern fringing reef of island #7. wrasse, powder-blue surgeonfish, squirrelfish, soldierfish Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 34m and Indian lionfish are all plentiful. The bottom is punctuated This is a steep sloping hard coral reef consisting of mostly hard- with large, impressive coral mounds and rocks, which are coral laminates. Unusually for an east-facing reef, there are covered with soft corals in diverse hues, encrusting sponges soft corals in the shallower waters at about 12m. Also on view and various tubeworms and featherstars. are schools of snappers and fusiliers, and occasionally turtles and leopard sharks. There’s a stunning bommie (coral head) 5 Beacon Point in the middle of the reef, starting in around 9m and going Location: The southern extension of Beacon Beach Reef. down to 30m; it features one of the finest concentrations of Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 55m corals in the Similans and should not be missed. The site is very like Beacon Beach Reef but with more fish and larger corals, especially in the deeper waters. Also, you 8 Shark Fin Reef have a good chance of seeing manta and eagle rays, plus Location: Around the rocks that break the water at low tide; large pelagics, in the deeper southern waters, away from 3km southeast of island #3. the headland. The reef-flat features many small boulders of Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 40m lesser star and brain corals, interspersed with familiar clusters The north-eastern side features a sloping reef, whereas the of staghorn corals, all rich in colourful reef-fish like chromis, south-western side is a more dramatic sheer drop-off: rocks wrasse, parrotfish and surgeonfish. The coral cover remains resembling fallen hexagonal pillars, are the highlight of this constant around the apex, with individuals increasing in size side of the site. At the south-eastern end of these formations with depth – especially gorgonian sea fans at about 30m. is a large swim-through; this provides an almost purpose- built opening to the site’s opposite side. Large Napoleon 6 elephant Head wrasse have also been seen around this section as have Location: The giant rocky outcrop off island #8’s southern tip. passing sharks and rays. As you approach the site from the west the outcrop resembles a partially submerged elephant – hence the name. 9 Boulder City Depth: Average 24m / Maximum 70m Location: Immediately south of Shark Fin Reef. Huge boulders, some with frames measuring over 30m, sit Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 32m individually or are stacked to form daring swim-throughs The site consists of a collection of enormous submerged comprising arches, caverns, gullies and tunnels at all depths. granite boulders running southeast-northwest, which are more typical of a west-facing coastal rock formation. They There’s plenty of marine life residing in the site’s shallower fancifully resemble rocky mountains separated by wide sections. Around the boulders are angelfish, triggerfish and valleys, their sheer sides punctuated occasionally by clusters schools of fusiliers and juvenile snappers. This is an ideal of soft coral and radiant crinoids; with small crevices housing place for spotting small reef sharks. a diversity of marine life.
East of Eden - Mu Koh Similan
126 127 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - surin Mu Koh Similan 10 Koh Bon Mu koh Surin Location: Off the south west corner of Koh Bon. Depth: Average 21m / Maximum 40m The island’s perimeter here takes the form of a series of small wall-like sections which drop to meet a fringing reef at 32m before sharply dropping to 40m to reach gently sloping sand. Huge sponges and sea fans can be found along the reef in depths of 30-40m.
The wall sections are covered with a mixture of sea anemones encrusting sponges and sea whips. Concealed within the narrow rocky gorges and crevices are octopus, resting cuttlefish, and coral trout being attended to at one ofthe many cleaning stations around this site. On closer inspection a variety of cleaner shrimps can be witnessed as they tend to their willing hosts.
To the southwest a splendid reef tapers down to the sites maximum depth and is covered in corals teeming with marine life. This is also a great location for regular encounters 1 with manta rays and leopard sharks. 2
11 Koh tachai 3 Location: 40km south of Koh Surin Tai. Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 30m This submerged plateau is divided into three reefs, each dominating a different depth with different structures and reef inhabitants. Mu Koh Surin Marine National Park is located 80km due west of Ranong Province along Thailand’s west coast. Off the island’s southern point, two submerged pinnacles stand proud of many large boulders and smaller rocks, The largest island is Koh Surin Nua which has an area of providing great swim-throughs. This, the southernmost area 19 sq. km and a highest point 240m above sea level. To its of the site, is part of the deepest of the three reefs, ranging immediate southwest lies the slightly smaller Koh Surin Tai; from 25m to 30m. This section is a fairly reliable spot for between the two is a strait only 200m wide, which can be catching glimpses of manta rays and whale sharks which crossed on foot during low waters. both frequent the area. The only residents on Koh Surin Nua are the park officials, The second, or central, section of the reef is slightly shallower although Koh Surin Tai has small communities of Chao Ley and is constructed mainly of hard corals and large rocks, sea gypsies on some of its eastern beaches. around which schools of spadefish – such as pinnate batfish – are tended to by common cleanerfish. Clinging to the rocks Diving around Surin are gorgonian sea fans, featherstars, colourful crinoids and Sites follow along fringing reefs that slope gently to the sea- areas of carpet sea anemones. Large bullethead parrotfish bed and in contrast along the walls of sheer pinnacles. The and even larger Napoleon wrasse share these waters with reefs and their inhabitants are thankfully now protected, moorish idols, schooling bannerfish, juvenile snappers and a but this hasn’t always been the case. Sadly there are isolated variety of triggerfish, including titan and orange-striped. areas of damage which have restricted the selection of listed sites. However, the jurisdiction extends to include the whale The third and shallowest section of the site sits in 12m. Here shark magnet of Richelieu Rock. you will encounter many Indian lionfish amongst backdrops of gorgonian sea fans and giant clams. Other schooling fish The sites are dived as both multi-day liveaboard excursions life includes batfish, sweetlips and juvenile yellowtail and from Phuket and Khao Lak, as well as daily dive trips from chevron barracuda. Khao Lak. For details of dive centres, see pages 98 and 114. 128 129 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - mergui archipelago Mu Koh Surin 1 turtle Ledge Mergui archiPeLago Location: Koh Surin Tai’s south-eastern coastline. Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 20m The site was awarded its name from the frequent sightings of turtles. It is also excellent for night-diving.
The higher portions of the reef-slope have numerous gardens of carpet anemones, below which are solitary magnificent sea anemones inhabited by a variety of anemonefish. Clusters of stag and elkhorn corals shelter giant clams and encrusting sponges from the predation 1 of bullethead parrotfish. Green turtles are frequently encountered here.
2 Koh torinla Location: Off the southwest tip of Koh Surin Tai. 2 Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 27m The eastern area has a small garden of magnificent sea anemones which are hosted by pink skunk and Clark’s 3 anemonefish. Small groupers and coral trout shelter beneath many fine flower corals. Beyond these gardens, are numerous smooth porous corals – including lesser and greater star – with schools of bicolour parrotfish, blue-spotted groupers and pairs of Emporer angelfish all venturing between the 4 rocks.
The rocks in the shallows host hermit crabs, urchins and In 1997 the Mergui Archipelago in the south of Myanmar cleaner shrimps, and are rich with colourful featherstars. (Burma) was opened up to foreigners for the first time in over This is one of the few locations in Thai waters where large fifty years. Back in the 17th Century the port of Mergui used numbers of bumphead parrotfish are still frequently seen. to be the main gateway to the Gulf of Siam and beyond – all passing boats came to the port to offload cargo or replenish 3 Richelieu Rock supplies. Location: 14km east of Koh Surin Nua and Tai. Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 45m Since then the Mergui Archipelago has been left largely alone As this is the only food source in the immediate area, it is and today it is an area of some mystery. Numerous islands excellent for encountering large pelagics. Rainbow runners, remain unexplored, and the region presents the possibility great and chevron barracuda, trevallies and tuna are all of hundreds of exciting new dive sites. Even now, trips here frequently seen. The rock is also among the world’s top listed maintain an exploratory feel, with visitors being amongst the locations for sighting whale sharks. first foreign faces ever seen by local nomadic Moken people (Burmese sea gypsies). Predominantly, this is a wall-dive which follows around a main outcrop surrounded by smaller submerged pinnacles Diving the Mergui Archipelago whose peaks range from 3m to 10m below the surface. In the Coral representation is sporadic, and the underwater terrain deeper waters around the three southernmost pinnacles is a is quite rugged and not as colourful as that around Mu Koh collection of large gorgonian sea fans, immediately beneath Similan Marine National Park. However, the area’s waters are radiant hermetypic corals. certainly not without their own special attractions. Sites such as Black Rock attract a variety of sharks as well as manta, eagle Around the corals is a wide diversity of marine life: residents and marbled rays, whilst The Three Islets has a healthy array of include schooling bannerfish, a variety of snappers and smaller reef life which is second to none. Virtually all the diving lionfish, moorish idols, titan triggerfish, and even shovelnose around the Archipelago is done from liveaboard excursions rays. Also present are bearded scorpionfish, stonefish, moray operating out of Phuket and Khao Lak. For details of dive eels, seahorses, shrimps, crabs and nudibranchs. centres, see pages 98 and 114. 130 131 POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - mergui archipelago
1 Black Rock Location: A 50m wide outcrop equidistant between North Eastern Little Torres and North Twin Island. Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 40m+ This is a tremendously exciting dive site, with frequent possibilities of spotting sharks of different sizes and species. It is primarily a wall dive, underlined with small boulders. This is the place to observe larger apex predators such as scalloped hammerheads, bull, grey reef and white tips. The sharks patrol the waters away from the rocky mass, passing through and around patch reefs and boulders that have settled to form wide U-shaped gullies on the seabed.
Large barracudas provide a wake-up call for any divers thinking of investigating the rocks in the deeper waters. Reef fish are prolific all around this open ocean site as are minute reef creatures such as nudibranchs, shrimps and crabs. The rarely seen Rhinopia, or lacy scorpionfish has been seen along the northern slopes of this site.
2 North twin Location: 36km to the south of Black Rock. Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 22m A wide plateau at 20m, covered by numerous hard and soft corals, crinoids and small reef fish. Eggshell and tiger cowries sit on display, while small groups of goatfish fidget about between the rocks and over the coral substrate bottom. Juvenile harlequin sweetlips are in evidence, and around one particularly compact cluster of sea fans, schools of checkerboard wrasse and small fish fry congregate.
There are larger table corals and porite mounds dotted with muti-coloured plume worms, and below the mounds crayfish concealed in darker overhangs. Parrotfish, spiny foot and dog-faced pufferfish have also taken up residency.
Blue dorid nudibranch
See listing on Page 119 133 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - krabi Mergui Archipelago The waters away from the island appear to be part of one krabi of the many routes for great barracudas and small white-tip reef sharks. The barracuda in particular often come in close to check out divers and on occasion escort them round the site.
3 three islets Location: These three rocky outcrops lie 30 km to the southeast of North Twin Island. Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 30m This is the favourite site in the archipelago as there’s simply so much to see. The islet is split in two from west to east by a canyon and is a great place to encounter grey reef sharks 1 and marbled rays as they pass through. The whole site is literally teeming with shrimps, eels, seahorses, anglerfish 2 and basketstars. Macro photographers could spend days here and still not photograph everything. 3 4 4 Western Rocky 5 7 Location: A collection of small rocky outcrops 82km 6 8 southwest of the departure point of Kaw Thaung. 9 10 Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 30m The underwater terrain here consists of pinnacles, both outcropping and submerged. The largest outcrop has a cave that cuts right through it and branches into a narrow and Had Nopparat Marine National Park low exit; the tunnel itself is filled with painted lobsters, crabs Krabi Province is 940km south of Bangkok and has long been and small invertebrates. The smaller exit of the tunnel is best a popular destination for budget travellers. The addition of avoided since its exit is occasionally blocked by a couple an international airport and high end resorts now attract a of large though harmless resident tawny nurse sharks. The much broader spectrum of visitors to the area, particularly presence of tiny invertebrates continues around the other families. pinnacles in the form of porcelain crabs, harlequin shrimps and squat lobsters. There’s also a variety of other smaller The area features some of Thailand’s most stunning landscape. attractions around this site, including cowrie shells, seahorses Sheer limestone cliffs are crowned with elevated jungles and and ribbon eels. A variety of small reef sharks can be seen in coconut palms clad the hillsides above glorious beaches. the deeper waters. The rugged cliff-faces are scarred with numerous caves and crevices, many of which are climbed by adventurous sports Black Rock climbers.
Diving around Krabi Directly off Ao Nang there are two islands, Koh Podah Nai and Koh Podah Nok, and a handful of limestone outcrops. The area’s local diving concentrates around these, as well as the sites at Koh Phi Phi, Shark Point Marine Sanctuary and Hin Daeng and Mouang. Divers can enjoy an abundance of radiant soft corals and a tremendous diversity of marine life. There are gently sloping reefs, caves and exciting swim- throughs.
The shallow reefs also offer opportunities for some tremendous snorkelling. The local sites are accessed in around 20 minutes whilst those further afield take over an hour. 134 135 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - krabi Krabi 1 Koh Ma tang Ming 4 Koh Mae urai Location: Immediately north of Koh Podah Nai. Location: 1km southwest of Koh Podah Nai. Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 14m Depth: Average 9m / Maximum16m Although this is not one of the area’s better sites, it merits a This rocky outcrop features two underwater tunnels. As you mention as it has reasonable diversities of both marine life and pass through the easternmost tunnel its exit acts as a natural hard corals making it a rewarding introduction dive to the area. frame for glorious soft corals in whites, pinks, blues, oranges Close inspection of the submerged rocks is recommended, and yellows. Beyond this coral garden, the sea-bed tapers as numerous members of the scorpaenidae family – such as gradually down past shelves of rocks crowned with colourful bearded scorpionfish and stonefish – are concealed onthe featherstars and orange encrusting sponges. Magnificent rocky ledges. Small yellow boxfish, rock basslets, moorish idols sea anemones host a variety of anemonefish. and bannerfish add colour, as do trees of soft corals. 5 Hin Bia Rhlua Hard corals are represented by staghorn, brain and some small Location: 500m southeast of Koh Mae Urai. boulders of coral porites. The best area for snorkellers is around Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 16m the eastern side where, close to the rock, there are many sea One of the local favourites. The southern side of the main whips, large plate corals and associated reef inhabitants. outcrop is the deepest section of the dive, which gradually gets shallower as it heads north and is mainly dominated 2 Koh Podah Nai by terraces of foliaceous corals. Below these are many small Location: The largest of the offshore islands and islets, just boulders of lesser and greater star corals with the familiar over 6Km south of Ao Nang Beach. punctuation of plume worms and sea whips. There’s a Warning: Due to high volume of boat traffic, extreme care must narrow gorge in the northern apex of this site. Along its floor be taken when snorkelling at this site. parrotfish peck away at hard corals and black-banded sea Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 12m kraits weave in and out of the nooks and crannies along its The northern beach of Koh Podah Nai slopes gently down to walls. Some sections of this site are relatively shallow, and an extensive reef-flat, which continues outwards for a further are suitable for snorkellers to enjoy. 50m before it reaches an almost sheer slope which drops to 12m. At high tide the corals are covered with only 2m of water 6 Koh Ya Wa Sam or less; at lower tides many coral heads actually break the Location: About 2km west of Podah Nok. surface. These conditions render the particular area suitable Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 17m only for snorkelling. The reef-slope off the southern outcrop climbs over many rocks which provide the main structure of the site. Juvenile Better corals and marine life are found a little way out. The black-tip reef and grey nurse sharks often rest among the reef consists mainly of small clusters of staghorn, cauliflower rocks, with leopard sharks out on the sand. and a number of leaf and plate corals. There are many narrow crevices and ledges that cut into the rocky walls of the island Anemone crab itself, these are well worth investigating as tigertail seahorses often conceal themselves within.
3 Koh Podah Nok (Chicken island) Location: 500m due south of Koh Podah Nai. Depth: Average 1m / Maximum 4m This site is immensely popular for snorkelling, and as the maximum depth dictates, not really a suitable dive site. The marine life around this picturesque islet is more prolific round the eastern shore, particularly off the northern end of the beach.
The seascape is liberally punctuated with rocky boulder and coral laminates with lots of small colourful reef- fish, reasonably sized giant clams and a wealth of small invertebrates. Its best to swim from the beach itself as there are also many black-spined sea urchins. 136 137 Dive SiteS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - krabi Krabi 7 Koh Kom 9 Koh See Location: Outcrop to the southeast of Podah Nok. Location: Three outcrops south of Koh Ya Wa Sam. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 16m The seascape around the western side of the outcrop features There’s a tremendous diversity of corals and marine life here. numerous terraced shelves which drop down to an area of Off the eastern face you find a wall. To the west this gradually large rocks. The gaps between the rocks act as shelters for a declines into close formations of large rocks. Back along the selection of medium-sized vertebrates including large dog- reef-slope itself, at a steady depth of 11m, a ribbon like effect faced pufferfish and groupers. Moorish idols and schooling is created by a series of brain corals which have anchored bannerfish patrol among many sea whips and bushy black themselves into the limestone. corals. The coral assortment changes towards the site’s western There’s also a small cave, the shallower exit of which leads section where the familiar hard species are replaced by to an elevated rocky plateau dense with magnificent sea bubble corals and zoanthids. These continue back to the anemones, themselves occupied by groups of saddleback western apex, which is highlighted by a spectacular shelved and tomato anemonefish. slope of leaf corals. There’s a fair representation of reef fish around Koh See, including titan and yellow-margined 8 Koh Ya Wa Bon triggerfish, moorish idols, dog faced pufferfish, lunar wrasse Location: To the west of Koh Podah Nok. and harlequin sweetlips. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m In the north of this site an impressive archway cuts through 10 Koh Haa the face of the rock for about 10m; there are two entrances at Location: Outcrop to the southeast of Koh See. 6m and 12m. This is a good swim through, although it is only Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m wide enough for a single diver at a time. The site’s northern Two large rocks in a depth of 9m are covered in soft corals, area gradually slopes down over coral laminates interspersed with oysters clinging to the rocky surface and also to sea with sea anemones (with a variety of tenants) and rocks. whip corals. The craggy surfaces of these small pinnacles host various moray eels. There are many sea anemones, mainly Away from the reef are three large submerged boulders, whose magnificent and gigantic; there’s an equally impressive southern faces are carpeted in anemones; their many crevices number of tenant anemonefish. If you look closely at the act as homes and lairs to a variety of invertebrates, including anemones you usually find other, smaller hosts such as banded, boxing and hinge shrimps. This is also a good location anemone crabs and translucent shrimps. This is also a good for spotting juvenile snowflake morays and black-banded sea site for spotting colourful mantis shrimps in their burrows in kraits as they meander in and out of the rocks. the coral substrate.
Koh Poda Nok with mainland Krabi in the background
138 139 Dive CeNtReS POCKET GUIDE dive thailand directory - krabi Krabi DiReCtoRY Krabi How to get there hra ang ivers p n d Krabi can be reached directly by air, road and sea. Ao Nang tel/fax. +66 (0)75 637064 By air: Krabi International Airport can be accessed from e. [email protected] a number of neighbouring countries, or via Bangkok’s w. www.phranangdivers.com Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Domestic flights are also scheduled between Krabi and Bangkok’s Don Muang Established in 1992, Phra Nang Airport. Domestic flight times average 80 minutes. There are Divers are the most experienced also flights between Krabi and Koh Samui. PADI dive centre in Ao Nang. Their experience lends itself to The three main carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within maintaining a high level of quality through all dive courses Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 and dive excursions. From half day beginner courses, 265 5555. Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside daytrips to the sites of Koh Phi Phi, King Cruiser Wreck/Shark Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Point and Koh Ha Yai to liveabords in the Similans, Phra Nang Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. Divers will take care good of you. instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox By boat: Longtail boats from Krabi Town to Ao Nang and Retail | Snorkelling Railae take 40 minutes to reach Railae and another 5 minutes to Ao Nang. Longtail boats also provide a regular service Their beachside centre offers a superb selection of diving between the two beaches. and snorkelling equipment in Ao Nang, including Mares, Ocean Dynamics, Ripcurl and Quiksilver. Large passenger boats depart daily from Ao Nang, Railae Phra Nang Divers looks forward to diving with you! and Krabi Town to Koh Phi Phi, and to Koh Lanta from Krabi Town.
By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal daily. The local bus terminal is just outside Krabi Town and takes 12 hours to reach. For further information regarding any bus services contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200.
Where to eat Ao Nang Beach: The larger hotels and resorts at Ao Nang all have their own restaurants, but that’s not to say that they are the only option for lunch or dinner. There are many good eateries along the beach road, as well as along a walkway that continues on at its northern end.
At the opposite end of the beach, nestled amongst the shady trees directly behind the beach, is the Last Café. This is an ideal and unique place if you’re looking for light meals and beach snacks during the day.
Railae: This beach differs from Ao Nang in that virtually all the restaurants are associated with individual beach resorts. Family-run rustic-style cafés serve fantastic seafood dishes.
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, PG see Pocket Guide FooD thailand − launching first quarter of 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
144 145 DiReCtoRY directory - krabi Krabi
Dive facilities Most of the area’s diving services are found on Ao Nang Beach, either as stand-alone dive centres or associated with the larger resorts or hotels. All the operators offer diving instruction and daily diving trips to the local sites and those further afield.
Dive trips Dive trips run on a daily basis. All trips depart from Ao Nang with pick-ups from Railae on the way to the dive sites, and include light refreshments, fruit, drinking water, lunch and Divemaster services. On the majority of the local diving trips, the surface interval can be spent on the island of Koh Podah Nai. Snorkellers can enjoy the reefs around this and Chicken Island.
Day trips to the further destinations of Shark Point, Anemone Reef, King Cruiser Wreck and the Phi Phi Islands are also available on a daily basis and snorkellers and non-divers are welcome to join any of the trips. Hin Daeng and Mouang are also visited.
Hospitals Krabi Provincial Hospital This hospital is in Krabi Town, but it is basic. If you do require treatment it is advisable to get to Phuket. Tel. +66 (0)75 611227-8
the Bangkok Phuket Hospital has a permanent ambulance based in Krabi Town which serves the area. Emergency Ambulance: Tel. 1719 Diving Medicine Hotlines Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482, (0)86 272 4618 Recompression chambers PADI & SSI Instruction The nearest recompression chambers are those on Day trips Phuket. For details see page 112 Live-aboards Dive Courses Tel: +66 (0)75 612665 Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here, as there’s a good selection of shallow sites. Local instruction www.ppscuba.com follows CMAS, NAUI, PADI or SSI diver training programs and is available in a variety of languages; the prices are similar and are fully inclusive of all equipment and certification.
For more information on the Krabi area contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. 076 212213, 076 211036.
146 See listing on Page 152 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh phi phi Koh Phi Phi
diving around Koh Phi Phi Koh Phi Phi offers a splendid variety of different types of diving on its local reefs, with abundant hard and soft corals and rich diversity of marine life – suitable for all levels of divers. Trips also visit Shark Point Marine Sanctuary, Hin Daeng and Mouang. Snorkelling around Phi Phi is second to none, with plenty of shallow coral gardens crowning the fringing reefs, which are alive with colourful fish.
1 Ao Nui 1 Location: On the northwest coast of Koh Phi Phi Don. depth: Average 15m / Maximum 21m The dive circumnavigates the large rocky outcrop just outside the bay and is a truly enjoyable dive. The waters around the eastern face are shallow and ideal for snorkelling: there are lots of corals and colourful reef fish among small boulders and rocks, which are encrusted with patches of sponges and 2 interspersed with a multitude of plume worms.
In contrast, the western section comprises a wall that descends 3 to 20m to meet a jumble of rocks. The wall features a wealth of 4 marine life including moray eels, lionfish, angelfish, butterflyfish and even harlequin ghost pipefish. The northwestern apex of the reef features large boulders, balanced on top of each other, 5 between which the more experienced divers can explore a 6 number of relatively tight swim-throughs. 7 2 Hin dot Location: Submerged pinnacle off Koh Phi Phi Don’s southwestern headlands. 8 depth: Average 12m / Maximum 28m The pinnacle is dominated by three interesting shelves which provide ample and varied underwater scenery as you spiral upwards. There are good soft corals at all depths. The Mu Koh Phi Phi Marine National Park hard corals are represented by tubes and laminates. The 50 km to the south west of Krabi, the Phi Phi island group deeper sections have numerous oysters and clams. Many has been drawing visitors from all four corners of the globe reef-fish are in evidence, including lunar wrasse, parrotfish, for over a decade. It is an extremely popular international honeycomb groupers and spotfin and Indian lionfish. There destination, and one that is well and truly established on are also bearded scorpionfish lurking among the rocks as Thailand’s diving and snorkelling map. they await their prey of tiny fish.
The islands’ raw natural beauty, fabulous beaches and ease of 3 table Coral City access all together add to the lure of this family destination, Location: Off the eastern side of Phi Phi Ley next to the which continues to flourish without the eyesore of high-rise Viking Cave. development. depth: Average 9m / Maximum 28m This is an interesting place to dive, and there is much to see. The topography of the larger and only inhabited island of The topography of the site is a sloping reef with sand and Koh Phi Phi Don comprises two dramatic limestone outcrops coral patches interspersed with a range of pinnacles. In the divided by a narrow flat isthmus. This stretch of land is where shallower reefs, there are some excellent examples of sea the vast majority of the island’s amenities and services are fans, whips and table corals, under the larger of which a found, of which there are plenty to choose from. resident hawksbill turtle can usually be seen. 148 149 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh phi phi Koh Phi Phi
There is also an artificial reef comprising of 100 cement variety of marine life, including small reef sharks, schooling blocks stacked from 18m to around 6m covered with algae pelagics (barracudas, trevally, kingfish and tuna) and, for shark- and an increasing amount of sea anemones. Regular marine spotters, bamboo, black-tip reef and leopard sharks. Reef life encounters include leopard sharks, scorpionfish, ghost inhabitants include angel and butterflyfish, morays, octopus, pipefish, peacock flounders, tiger tail seahorses and a variety seahorses and the occasional turtle! of nudibranchs. 7 Koh Bida Nok 4 Ao Maya Location: Outer outcrop directly south of Phi Phi Ley. Location: West coast of Koh Phi Phi Ley. depth: Average 19m / Maximum 30m depth: Average 16m / Maximum 24m Gorgonian sea fans, sea whips and colourful soft corals The dive follows the coast along a steep shelved reef, with abound. Small scorpionfish disguise themselves amid the occasional sections of wall; hard corals, sea whips and various rocks; lionfish hover between. Varying sizes and species of species of sea anemones cover the elevated shelves. There are colourful parrotfish and wrasse, along with large schools of also small offshore pinnacles and submerged rocks to explore. moorish idols and hunting trumpetfish, are at all depths. On Wrasse, moorish idols and bannerfish constantly pass by. the higher ledges are numerous sea anemones populated by clownfish. Expect encounters with leopard sharks and, ona 5 Ao Losamah grander scale, manta rays and whale sharks. Location: The southern bay of Koh Ph Phi Ley. depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m 8 Hin Bida The sandy bottom is punctuated by rocky ledges among Location: Outcrop 8km southeast of Koh Phi Phi Ley. which are numerous bearded scorpionfish. Fringing the depth: Average 12m / Maximum 18m rocks are sea whips, some bent over by the aggregations of Relatively shallow at around 5m, the area due north of the wing oysters clinging to them. The southern section of the outcrop is covered with scattered rocks; in calm conditions site is deeper, at 20m, and follows a wall where many bivalves snorkellers and divers can enjoy schools of colourful reef- and clusters of soft corals are in evidence. Pairs of large blue- fish, including blue-lined snappers and harlequin sweetlips, ringed angelfish explore the nooks and crannies. and more static attractions like multi-coloured plume worms, featherstars and crinoids. 6 Koh Bida Nai Location: The nearer of the two outcrops directly south of This location’s secondary name (Phi Phi’s Shark Point) refers Phi Phi Ley. to the overwhelming presence of leopard sharks. There depth: Average 16m / Maximum 35m are also lots of cuttlefish, squid and titan triggerfish. Large A hugely diverse range of hard and soft corals. One area, known undulated and golden morays, spiny lobsters and octopi as Fantasy Reef, comprises mostly branching and hard coral attempt to obscure themselves within the many craggy laminates, punctuated with soft corals. The reef attracts a high holes and crevices.
From the viewpoint on Koh Phi Phi Don
150 151 dive CeNtres POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive centres - koh phi phi Koh Phi Phi phi phi scuba diving center princess divers Ton Sai Bay Loh Dalum Bay tel. +66 (0)75 612665 tel . +66 (0)75 601168 e. [email protected] e. [email protected] w. www.ppscuba.com w. www.princessdivers.com Just a minute and a half’s Princess Divers offers a choice of two stroll from the pier, the bright yellow 2-storey dive centre superb diving locations, on Koh Phi covers all aspects of diving service whilst maintaining a Phi & Koh Mook (Muk), which allow sociable relaxed atmosphere. you to dive all southern Thailand’s best dive sites, including Hin Daeng & Hin instruction | day trips | Liveaboard | Gear rental Mouang, Shark Point, the King Cruiser retail | snorkelling | Accommodation Wreck, Phi Phi Islands, Koh Kradan & Koh Rok. Experienced multilingual dive staff offer courses for complete beginner to Established in 1989 Phi Phi Scuba has plenty of experience professional from PADI or SSI starting daily. and with six dive boats and a power boat chartering service they offer a choice of diving destinations every day, instruction | day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox separating boats for qualified and student divers. Trips visit Gear rental | retail | snorkelling | Accomodation all the local dive sites, including the King Cruiser Wreck and the manta ray and whale shark magnets of Hin Daeng and Hin Princess Divers is Phi Phi’s premier resort-based dive centre, Mouang. These sites are perfect for advanced and speciality located within PP Princess and PP Charlie Resorts, only a dives, such as underwater photography and videography, one-minute walk from the main pier. Established in 2001 two services offered by centre. they offer a relaxed friendly atmosphere with the emphasis on small groups for maximum attention and safety. The PADI and SSI dive courses up to and including the professional facilities include air-con classrooms and the largest range of certification of instructor start daily in a variety of languages retail equipment on the island. with classes being kept to small groups, providing students with a comforting introduction to the Andaman Sea. Dive If it’s peace and quiet you want, look no further than the professional internship packages are also available. newly-opened island of Koh Mook in Trang Province. Located within Charlie Beach Resort, on Haad Farrang beach, Princess Above the dive centre, the ‘Deco Bar’ is a great place for Divers are the island’s only dive centre, with daily dive trips logging dives and relaxing whilst wrapping up a great day and dive courses for beginners. Koh Mook and its surrounding of diving. islands offer stunning unspoilt diving opportunities where the only crowds are the marine life! New dive sites are being discovered regularly.
152 153 dive CeNtres POCKET GUIDE dive thailand Koh Phi Phi direCtOry Koh Phi Phi How to get there iking ivers v d There are daily boat transfers to and from Krabi, Koh Lanta Ton Sai Bay and Phuket. These are the main options. dive Centre. +66 (0)75 601110 Hotline. +66 (0)81 719 3375 Other options include private boat charter or the Phuket e. [email protected] Seaplane Service operated by Destination Air: w. www.vikingdiversthailand.com Tel. +66 (0)76 328637-39, +66 (0)85 785 1889. Viking Divers believe you will not find a better partner for your diving For information on how to get to: Krabi see p145, Koh Lanta needs and over the years they have p167 and Phuket p111. gained a good reputation as a friendly professional dive centre. Where to eat instruction | day trips | Gear rental | retail | snorkelling Narrow streets and walkways on Koh Phi Phi Don traverse Accomodation both the isthmus and follow along the two coastlines and are substantially punctuated by a range of restaurants, cafes They are mentioned in the Rough Guide and Lonely Planet and bakeries purveying a broad selection of European and as well as several other well known guide books, their aim is to give customers the best possible service and experience Thai menus. Pizzerias, hamburger and steak joints, ice cream underwater that they can. To ensure that they meet this, parlours and, as you would expect, seafood restaurants are group sizes are kept to no more than four people on any all but a short stroll away from each other. diving course or guided dive trip. For best information and insight on where and what to eat, PADI and SSI dive courses commence on a daily basis along see Pocket Guide FOOd thailand − launching first quarter of with three different scheduled dive trips to the local sites, the PG wreck of the King Cruiser or Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang, all 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com of which are visited onboard the centre’s two custom built dive boats. dive facilities The majority of Koh Phi Phi’s dive operators are located in the small, and only, town in Ton Sai Bay on Koh Phi Phi Don.
Diving is a big attraction here and there are plenty of dive centres in order to cater for the demand. The standard of service is high with virtually all the major languages being spoken.
A number of the more established centres carry a good selection of equipment for sale and provide servicing too. There are two liveaboard boats operated from the island. The Koh Phi Phi dive sites are also visited as daily excursions by the operators located in Krabi, and on the islands of Koh Lanta and Phuket.
dive trips Trips run twice daily, departing at around 08.00hrs and 14.00hrs: most offer light refreshments, fruit, lunch and Divemaster services. Not all operators include equipment in the price.
The larger dive boats carry fresh water tanks for rinsing photographic equipment, but longtail boats do not. Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome to join any of the scheduled diving trips; masks and fins are available for hire. 154 155 direCtOry POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh lanta Koh Phi Phi Koh Lanta If you want to organise your own snorkelling trip you can hire a longtail from Ao Ton Sai or Hat Yao for a reasonable charge.
dive courses Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here, as there is a good selection of shallow sites. Local instruction follows CMAS, PADI, NAUI and SSI diver training programmes; prices are similar and are fully inclusive of all equipment and certification. 1 3 Hospitals 2 The nearest hospitals are those in Krabi Town and on Phuket. It’s advisable, if possible, to get to one of the 4 hospitals on Phuket. 5 Krabi Provincial Hospital: Tel. +66 (0)75 611227-8 6 recompression chambers 7 The nearest recompression chambers are on Phuket. For details see page 112. 8
Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park For more information on Koh Phi Phi contact Tourism There are dozens of islands off the Krabi coast. Of these, Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036. 15 make up the Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park, which covers about 135 sq km across four main island groups – Koh Coral trout Lanta Yai and Koh Lanta Noi, Koh Muk, Koh Rok Nok and Koh Rok Nai, and the Koh Ha group of islands.
The most tourist facilities are found on Koh Lanta Yai; there are numerous bungalow resorts and even a couple of luxury spa and resorts, and even more on the way.
The island is around 25km long, with a hilly central section and a string of superb sandy beaches along its western coastline. The main hub of activity on the island remains at the northern port of Saladan. Here you will find a post office, clinic and banking facilities. There is also a nice selection of restaurants and, of course, a number of the island’s dive operators.
diving around Koh Lanta The diving to the south of Koh Lanta and the adjacent islands is exceptionally good. This is regarded as one of the best areas in Thailand. There’s a great variety of walls, fringing reefs, caves and a wreck to explore around the offshore islands, islets and rocks.
Marine life is abundant, with a healthy cross-section of reef species and pelagics. Only the local operators and a few from Krabi, Koh Phi Phi and Phuket currently utilise these sites, so they remain uncrowded. 156 157 dive sites Koh Lanta 1 Koh Ha Nua Location: Northernmost outcrop of the Koh Ha island group. depth: Average 20m / Maximum 34m One point of individuality is that the site is characterised by a scattering of geometrically shaped rocks. Sea whips and sea fans are much in evidence, as are featherstars and nudibranchs. This is as good a place as any to see Indian and spotfin lionfish, bearded scorpionfish and imperial angelfish. There is a small cave off the southwest wall, which twists down to its exit in a lovely area of large submerged boulders carpeted in radiant soft corals and large gorgonian sea fans. The gaps between offer exciting swim-through experiences.
2 Koh Ha yai Location: Southernmost of the Koh Ha island group. depth: Average 18m / Maximum 25m There is excellent adventure here. The south western face has a cave with two large entrances. The western of these is a hole in the rock at a depth of 5m. This immediately enters the larger of two connected cathedrals, which rise an impressive 30m above sea-level. The other entrance/exit, at the eastern end, is deeper, at 16m. It is not dark in the cathedrals; light enters from the waters below. Directly in front of the cave are a number of large rocks highlighted by sea fans and soft corals. There are also plenty of sea whips, which are worth closer inspection as it will reveal a variety of tiny camouflaged invertebrates.
3 Koh Muk Location: Outcrop off Koh Muk’s northwest point. depth: Average 5m / Maximum 10m The rock is covered in splendid purple and red soft corals, with holes and cracks providing hiding places for reef inhabitants. You can head either south along the west coast or east along the north coast – both options offer
Koh Ha Yai
158 see listing on Page 165 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh lanta Koh Lanta overhangs, but the latter is the most interesting. More 7 Hin daeng significant than the diving on offer, there’s an interesting Location: 500m from Hin Mouang. adventure for snorkellers – assuming they feel brave depth: Average 25m / Maximum 35m enough to navigate the winding cave/tunnel, 60m long, A series of wall dives with intermittent shelves at varying which has been cut through the western rocky cliff. depths. There are more soft corals than hard, but the main attraction is the seemingly endless diversity of marine Known as Morukut (Emerald Cave), this penetrates the inhabitants, including leopard sharks, turtles, moray eels, mountain and eventually emerges into a beautiful lagoon, lionfish, bannerfish, angelfish, butterflyfish, pipefish, sea kraits, about 60m across, fringed by tropical forest, and with a crabs, shrimps and lobsters. This is due to the fact that this, and superb beach. The tunnel affords the only access by water neighbouring Hin Mouang, are the only reef-type communities to this lagoon; the water at its entrance is only about 4m or feeding grounds within the area. Individually, though, they deep and becomes shallower as the tunnel goes deeper into have different attractions. For instance, the deeper waters the mountain, while there is always at least 1m airspace and around this site are one of the few remaining places in the sometimes as much as 15m. country where grey reef sharks can be encountered. Manta rays and whale sharks are also regular visitors. 4 Koh Kraden wreck Location: Off the southwest coast of Koh Kraden. 8 Hin Mouang depth: Average 24m / Maximum 28m Location: 27km west of Koh Rok. The wreck is believed to be of a 60-70m Japanese destroyer depth: Average 23m / Maximum 70m+ sunk by air attack in 1944. It sits in 28m of water. As the This is one of the best dive sites in Thai waters. A series of six or visibility here generally worsens below 20m, the way to find more submerged pinnacles heads southwest, the shallowest the wreck is to follow the many fish that frequent what has being about 8m beneath the surface. The site gets its name become an artificial reef. Those experienced in wreck-diving courtesy of the carpet of purple sea anemones which cloak can penetrate the bow sections, but it is not advisable to its upper surfaces. This is a very colourful and exciting site. attempt entry to the stern section, which is draped with Large pelagics often visit, including enormous barracuda fishing nets and subject to much silting. and very large tuna. Manta rays and whale sharks regularly frequent the surrounding waters, as do large stingrays. 5 Koh rok Nai Location: The northern of the two Koh Rok islands. Harlequin shrimp depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m This is a good site at all depths. The diving is around the southern coast, heading slightly northeast. This is also a reasonable snorkelling site, and offers good night-diving, since conditions are almost always calm at night. The reef slopes gently and there are lots of hard corals, including brain and table staghorn, and many barrel sponges. The reef- fish are reasonably plenteous; they include bannerfish, large schools of moorish idols, a good variety of anemonefish and on occasion, turtles. Away from the reef, large barracuda, tuna and jacks pass by.
6 Koh rok Nok Location: The southern of the two Koh Rok islands. depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m Around the wall, look out for morays, lionfish, invertebrates and nudibranchs, plus many zigzag oysters. Further around the headland you come across a terrain of big boulders that extends all the way to the cliff face. This section is interesting in that a freshwater stream has, because of its high iron content, coloured the rocks bright orange; for the same reason, though, healthy coral growth is restricted.
160 161 dive CeNtres POCKET GUIDE dive thailand Koh Lanta direCtOry Koh Lanta palm beach divers How to get there Koh Lanta Yai can be reached by scheduled boat services Long Beach from Krabi Town, Koh Phi Phi Don, Phuket and Ban Baw tel/fax. Muang pier northwest of Trang Town. To reach the island via +66 (0)75 684603 the town, transfer by minibus or taxi to the pier at Ban Baw Muang, around 40km north of town. The recommended way Hotline. +66 (0)87 806 4314, e. [email protected] to access Koh Lanta Yai is to arrive at Krabi Town and transfer w. www.palmbeachdivers.com to the boat service or arrive at the airport and have the dive instruction | day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental operator arrange the connecting road transfer. retail | snorkelling | Accommodation to trang town from Bangkok At Palm Beach Divers the heart and focus is both on fun and By air: Koh Lanta can be reached from the nearby airports diving. The centre is located in the beautiful resort of Lanta in Krabi and Trang. Whichever airport is used, a transfer will Palm Beach where they specialize in the personal approach by offering diving services to fit everybody’s wishes. need to be arranged to the island. This takes around an hour from either airport and is best arranged in advance through As a PADI 5 Star IDC Center dive courses are conducted by a one of the dive operators. team of experienced instructors who are all passionate about diving. All courses are conducted around their students with Via Trang. Daily flights depart Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi particular attention being paid on Divemaster and Instructor International and Don Muang airports. Flight time is 90 minutes. certifications. Allowing students to take their career in diving For more information contact Nok Air: Within Thailand, to the limit. Packages including accommodation are possible. Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Dive trips are limited to small groups and depart on the Via Krabi. Daily flights depart both Bangkok airports. Flight centre’s dive or speed boat directly from the beach and are times average 80 minutes. There are also flights from Koh run by experienced international staff that ensure high service Samui. The three main carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within & safety standards and above all lot’s of fun and adventure! Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 The centre is an Aqua Master outlet and therefore stocks 265 5555. Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside high standard diving gear at competitive prices. Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal twice daily. Journey time is 17hrs. For information on the bus service contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. By Boat: There are daily boat transfers to and from Krabi Town, Koh Phi Phi and Phuket. By train: Three types of service run from Bangkok to Trang and as it is a 15hr journey it is advisable to travel sleeper class. Trains can be booked up to 90 days in advance – recommended as they fill up quickly. For information regarding train service contact Hua Lumphong Railway Station, Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.
Where to eat Virtually all the island’s resorts have their own eateries. If they don’t, it’s only a short stroll along the beach to one that does! There are a few independent restaurants and bakeries around the island. The port of Saladan has a worthy selection of local fare, seafood restaurants, pizzerias and bakeries. For best information and insight on where and what to eat, PG see Pocket Guide FOOd thailand − launching first quarter of 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
166 167 direCtOry POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh tao Koh Lanta Koh tao dive facilities There are around a dozen operators on the island. The 2 majority are located in Saladan. The main operators also have booking offices at a number of the island’s resorts. 3 1 4 5 All the operators on the island offer dive education and daily 6 dive trips. Some of the more established dive centres carry a retail selection.
dive trips 9 All trips depart from the northern fishing port of Saladan at around 08.00hrs and return during the late afternoon. Included in the price are refreshments, fruit, drinking water, lunch and Divemaster(s) services. 7 The cost of day trips varies depending on the destination. 8 Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome to join scheduled diving trips; snorkelling equipment is available. The larger dive boats will carry fresh water tanks for rinsing diving and photographic equipment.
Hospitals Koh Tao – or Turtle Island as it’s affectionately referred to The nearest hospitals are in Trang Town. – is the northernmost and smallest in the chain of the three racha damnern Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 211203 ‘inhabited’ islands in the Samui Archipelago, with an area Watana Pat Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 218332 of 21 sq km. The south and west coastlines are dotted with white sandy beaches: the north and east coasts have a couple trang Chatasongkroh Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 218060 of small sandy bays but are predominantly formed by large Note that, if possible, it is better to head for the amenities granite boulders stacked high above the water and rising to and emergency services on Phuket. The Bangkok Phuket fringe the island’s forests. Hospital has a permanent ambulance based in Krabi Town which serves Koh Lanta, Tel. 1719 The island’s single town, Mae Haad, is located on the western coast. There’s a bold selection of restaurants with recompression chambers international and local menus, and a post office, internet The nearest recompression chambers are on Phuket. services, general provisions shops and a handful of diving For details see page 112. centres and credible retail outlets purveying diving equipment and accessories.
diving around Koh tao dive courses The diving around Koh Tao is amongst the best in the Gulf Local instruction has a choice of CMAS, PADI and SSI training of Thailand with enough variety to satisfy all levels of divers. programs, the complete range of which is available, including There are deep shipwrecks, (some only suitable for technical the professional levels of Divemaster and Instructor. There divers) and towering submerged pinnacles, with their craggy are also a number of specialty courses, which run over two rock faces seemingly alive with various hard and soft corals. to three days. The courses’ timetables are structured to suit These sites are constantly visited by large pelagics. In contrast both students and dive centres. are dives along gentle sloping coral reefs. These are good places to see many different species of laminate and foliaceous corals and a rich diversity of marine life. There’s a few good For more information on Koh Lanta contact Tourism Authority snorkelling sites which can be reached off the beach of Nang of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036. Yuan island. 168 169 POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh tao
1 Chumphon Pinnacles Location: About 5km northwest of Nang Yuan. depth: Average 20m / Maximum 36m This is Koh Tao’s most impressive site, and without doubt one of the most popular. Divers revisiting the island always ask when the earliest scheduled trip to Chumphon Pinnacles is!
The site consists of four interconnected underwater pinnacles which tower up from around 34m; the highest peaks are 16m Below the surface. This is an ideal place to spot many pelagics. Large schools of great barracuda, big- eyed jacks, tuna, mackerel, goldbody and giant trevally are all frequent visitors. Whale sharks, with accompanying striped remoras and pilot fish are sighted here with more frequency than any other site in the Gulf. Bulky grey reef sharks are seen in the depths away from the base of the rocky structure.
2 Green rock Location: 50m off the northern shore of Nang Yuan. depth: Average 12m / Maximum 25m Divers come here for the tremendous selection of adventurous swimthroughs provided by large archways, caverns, caves and crevices which cut through the matrix of submerged rocks. There are many groupers, blue-spotted ribbontail rays and yellowmargin triggerfish, which can be aggressive – especially if protecting their nests during the spawning season.
This is a good place to see green and hawksbill turtles. Green Rock makes an interesting night-dive. The triggerfish secure themselves in the smaller crevices for the night and the parrotfish sleep in their cocoons while the nocturnal community comes to life.
3 Nang yuan – Northwest Bay Location: Northwest bay off Nang Yuan. depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m Follow the rocks northwards to find large numbers of black sea cucumbers scattered around rocks and lesser star boulder corals, heavily pitted with multicoloured plume worms and bivalves. The larger rocks, rich in foliaceous and soft corals, provide small-scale wall-dives and swim- arounds. Neptune barrel sponges are covered in long white alabaster tubeworms. The rocks are interspersed with small elevated sections hosting gardens of sea anemones.
Around and beyond the rocks the fish life becomes more prolific. There are lots of bullethead parrotfish, checkerboard wrasse, red-tailed butterflyfish and emperor angelfish, and large white snappers, cuttlefish and jacks. see listing on Page 178 171 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh tao Koh Tao 4 Nang yuan – Japanese Gardens 7 Ao Leuk Location: Nang Yuan’s southeastern bay. Location: Koh Tao’s southeast coast. depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m Although the general conditions may be the same, this site is This is really a diver-training site, and provides an excellent not a replica of the previous site. As you head south towards alternative to the two at Nang Yuan: if weather makes one the rocks, the sand is slowly replaced by boulder corals rich inaccessible, the other will not be. The seascape is ideal for in small bivalves and plume worms. Beyond the boulder those taking their first breaths beneath the ocean’s surface. corals is a shallow sloping reef formed of table staghorns and various leaf corals; black-banded sea kraits intertwine The sand is broken by small mounds of staghorn corals around the branches, while pufferfish and damselfish create and numerous patches of long-spined black sea urchins. their own blankets of colour. Mushroom corals lie individually scattered, as do small sponge-encrusted rocks. Following the reef east, you approach a number of small caves and overhangs; these serve as shelters for many The dominating species among the many fish around these blue-spotted ribbontail rays. A good selection of Phyllidia undulating rocks are parrotfish, wrasse, juvenile snappers, nudibranchs feed on the rock-encrusting sponges. This is a squirrelfish and soldierfish. Away from the rocks, numbers of good site for observing passing turtles. yellowtail barracuda and schooling bannerfish pass by.
5 White rock 8 red rock (shark island) Location: About 1km south of Nang Yuan. Location: 1km off the southern tip of Koh Tao. depth: Average 9m / Maximum 22m depth: Average 15m / Maximum 28m This is a very enjoyable dive, suitable for both novice The good thing about this site, provided access is possible, and experienced divers. The site consists mainly of two is that you can virtually always have a pleasant dive; it also submerged pinnacles, the higher of which is covered by only offers very good night-diving. The site consists of a steeply 2m of water. sloping reef.
The surfaces are broken by a number of elevated shelves The shallower part, around the northeast section, varies graced with a host of honeycomb groupers, long-spined from 4m to 2m and is an excellent place to snorkel. Lavish black sea urchins, nudibranchs and various sea anemones. sea anemone gardens and table corals are interspersed Radiant trees of soft corals mix with knob and pore corals, and with large flat-topped rocks, providing a playground for a are rich with colourful plume worms. Small moray eels, crabs multitude of reef-fish: titan triggerfish, pairs of blue-ringed and shrimps have taken up residence in the many cracks and angelfish, lunar and bicolour wrasse, large parrotfish and crannies of the rock faces. There are also many titan triggerfish, fusiliers. In the sand, blue-spotted stingrays can be seen. some of which occasionally act quite aggressively. White There have also been reliable sightings of hawksbill and Rock is the area’s most popular night-diving destination. You green turtles, and as the name implies, reef sharks! can see a large resident green turtle, hermit crabs and giant barracuda, attracted to the rock by smaller fish. 9 southwest Pinnacles Location: About 7km southwest of Koh Tao. 6 Hin Wong depth: Average 17m / Maximum 28m Location: About 100m off Hin Wong Bay. These three submerged pinnacles represent a series of short depth: Average 12m / Maximum 26m wall-dives. The more noticeable of the surrounding reef-life The site consists mainly of a large tabletop rock formation includes groupers, schooling bannerfish, moorish idols and with an array of soft corals scattered over the surrounding humpback snappers. In the gulleys between the rocks are area. The rocky plateau is almost completely obscured by fire many bushy black corals, sea whips and gorgonian sea fans, corals. East of it, the sandy bottom slopes steeply down to all in relatively good health. Butterflyfish, including raccoon the site’s maximum depth past other, slightly smaller granite and threadfin, share these waters. The walls of the pinnacles structures. have many Neptune barrel sponges, which increase in size the deeper they are. The resident fish are dominated by blue-spotted and red coral groupers, bannerfish and moorish idols. Fusiliers and Away from the rocks there are many pelagics, including great snappers are found in small groups in the deeper waters. This barracuda and juvenile yellowtails, mackerel, trevallies, dog- is a fairly reliable place to see green and hawksbill turtles. faced tuna, rainbow runners and big-eye jacks. 172 173 dive CeNtres POCKET GUIDE dive thailand Koh Tao direCtOry Koh Tao scuba Junction How to get there Koh Tao can be reached directly by sea and indirectly by air, Sairee Beach rail and road. tel. +66 (0)77 456164 By air and boat: There are no airports on Koh Tao, but Fax/tel. +66 (0)77 456013 planes fly to neighbouring Koh Samui, providing a relatively e. [email protected] comfortable, though indirect, access to the island. Daily w. www.scuba-junction.com domestic flights with Bangkok Airways depart from Krabi, ssi Platinum Facility Phuket and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport. instruction | day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental They also schedule daily flights directly to and from retail | snorkelling | Accommodation Singapore. Thai Airways International serves Koh Samui from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi International Airport. For more Since opening 16 years ago, Scuba Junction’s emphasis has information contact Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. been on quality, service and safety. ALL dive groups are 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Thai limited to FOUR divers and a complimentary dive computer Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111.. is supplied to all of their divers. Diving equipment is serviced every 6 months to the highest EUROPEAN Standards. Transfer to connecting boat services is by air-conditioned This extra level of service is well documented on Internet minibus. Two high speed catamarans depart twice daily forums. They’ve been nominated by www.i-escape.com four (weather permitting). Both boats stop off at Koh Phangan to straight years as ‘Best Dive Operator on Koh Tao’ and are pick up and drop off passengers. The overall trip takes around highly recommended by www.lonleyplanet.com. two hours and is the preferred way to reach Koh Tao from Scuba Junction take marine conservation close to their heart. Koh Samui. The catamarans also sail between Chumphon As an active member of Green Fins Thailand, they help to and Koh Tao on a daily basis. For further information contact promote sustainable dive tourism, eco friendly dive techniques Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran: Tel. +66(0)77 247401 or and conduct regular beach and underwater clean-ups. Seatran Discovery: Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8. Reef Ecology lectures are organized on a weekly basis, By bus and boat: All-in packages from Bangkok to Koh including Coral Reef Monitoring programs . Data collected is Tao are available daily. They generally depart Khao San transmitted in the UN International Reef Data base. Road early evening and travel overnight to arrive on Koh They also offer dives on BIOROCK, the new artificial Coral Tao the following morning. Packages include both bus Reef installed off Koh Tao. and boat. For more information contact Seatran Discovery: Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8. Alternatively, VIP air-conditioned buses travel from Bangkok daily. The journey breaks in Chumphon Town; the passenger ferry pier on the Thapao River is 30 minutes by local bus or taxi. For more information on bus services contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, 02 435 1200. By train and boat: Express and Sprinter trains depart Bangkok Hua Lumphong Railway Station daily. For further information regarding train services contact Hua Lumphong Railway Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.
Where to eat The majority of the dive resorts are self-contained with their own restaurants. If they are not, it is a short walk to the nearest eatery – and it’s not all local fare! If you fancy sampling a delicious meal of international favourites, including Indian, Italian and Mexican, drop into one of the many restaurants in Mae Haad and on Sairee Beach. For best information and insight on where and what to eat, PG see Pocket Guide FOOd thailand − launching first quarter of 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com 178 179 direCtOry POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh phangan Koh Tao Koh Phangan dive facilities Many operators display high certifications of merit from their various affiliated training agencies for all-round service, and rightly so; the average standards found throughout the island’s diving community are very impressive. All operators have their 1 own or are associated to a nearby source of accommodation, which is generally used as an incentive to use their diving services, particularly diver training. The larger resorts all have their own restaurants. If they don’t there is one very close by. KOH PHANGAN Internet services are also becoming more commonplace in the island’s dive centres.
2 dive trips Most of the diving facilities have their own dive boats. Some trips include fruit and soft beverages whereas others provide 3 only drinking water. Weather permitting, local dive sites are 4 visited twice daily, once in the morning and again in the afternoon. Day trips to Sail Rock and the Samran Pinnacles As Koh Samui has gradually succumbed to mainstream leave only in the morning and include lunch. All trips offer tourism, Koh Phangan remains the most popular backpackers’ two dives and include equipment. island in the Gulf of Thailand. Covering around 190 sq km, its mountainous terrain is covered in dense jungle, with granite Hospitals & recompression chambers outcrops scattered around the coast. There are plenty of nice The nearest hospitals and recompression chambers are beaches, many in small, picturesque bays. Most of the island’s those located on Koh Samui. See page 195 for details. amenities are found in around the town of Thong Sala and the two Haad Rin beaches. Although hospitals do not exist on Koh Tao, there is a physicians clinic on Sairee Beach which is affiliated with It was not until the inauguration of the island’s infamous the Bankok samui Hospital on Koh Samui. The clinic’s ‘Full Moon’ parties in the 1980s that travellers began arriving resident doctor is proficient in diving medicine and in large numbers. Clubbers and ravers stayed on, earning regularly consults with the Badalveda diving Medicine Koh Phangan its reputation as the ‘Ibiza of the Orient’ but Network. there is also a well established alternative scene, with Tai Chi, meditation, open-air yoga and other New Age pursuits. Most The clinic has a number of beds and there is an evacuation of these activities are centred on the Haad Rin beaches on procedure to the recompression chamber at Bangkok the southeast coast. samui Hospital, which can be contacted via the Diving Medicine Hotlines. diving around Koh Phangan Tel. +66 (0)86 272 4618, (0)81 989 9482 Koh Phangan, like Koh Samui, is an ideal departure point for sites in the Ang Thong Marine National Park, the Samran Pinnacles and Sail Rock. But, as they are nearer, divers benefit dive courses from shorter journey times and being first to arrive at the This is a great place to indulge in diver training; the facilities sites. It also exclusively opens up night diving opportunities are good, the accommodation comfortable and the courses at Sail Rock! Two-day excursions run to the sites around Koh are both enjoyable and economical. Instruction on the island Tao. It takes about 3hrs to reach Koh Tao’s southern sites. follows BSAC, CMAS, PADI and SSI training structures. It’s possible to become certified to all levels of recreational and Visibility around Koh Phangan averages only about four technical training, including instructor. metres; the highest expectancy is 25m. Marine life around the reefs is fair, particularly with small-medium sized fish, but sites are seldom visited by large pelagics. There are For more information on Koh Tao, contact Tourism Authority occasional sightings of small juvenile reef sharks, turtles and of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828. stingrays. 180 181 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh phangan Koh Phangan 1 Koh Ma 3 Haad yuan Location: Off the northwest coast of Koh Phangan. Location: The headland at the north end of Haad Rin. depth: Average 9m / Maximum 30m depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m This is considered the most interesting Koh Phangan site. Primarily used as a diver-training site, this is in fact quite an The marine life is good and the corals reasonably healthy. acceptable dive around a wide, shallow undulating reef. Away from the reef are schools of fusiliers, red snappers and It is broken by many large domed rocks that lie in forests blue-striped grunts; groups of cuttlefish occasionally mingle of black sea whips. Many of the rocks are, in addition, with pairs of Imperial and blue-ringed angelfish. Honeycomb highlighted by small trees of soft coral. This makes a suitable groupers, parrotfish, wrasse and butterflyfish stay closer to area for snorkellers, who will also enjoy its array of colourful the reefs, and anemones and sponges encrust it. The reef itself reef-fish and diverse invertebrates, including featherstars, consists mainly of numerous boulders of lesser star, double nudibranchs and several species of cowrie shells. star and brain corals of varying sizes; the deeper waters have black corals dividing up the rocky borderline. The usual reef-fish, like parrotfish and wrasse, are present but in small numbers. Nurse sharks and blue-spotted ribbontail 2 Koh tae Nok stingrays are sometimes seen away from the reef. For those Location: Outer of the two islands off the west coast. trained in cave diving, is a narrow dog-legged cave, 15m depth: Average 16m / Maximum 25m long. When the visibility is good this rarely dived site can be very enjoyable. There is little coral damage around this site, and 4 Koh Kon rin the specimens are reasonably healthy. The reef-flat consists Location: South of Koh Phangan’s southeastern cape. of various table corals and small boulders of star corals pitted depth: Average 15m / Maximum 27m with bivalves. The waters provide interesting snorkelling, a The eastern half of this dive circumnavigates a large rocky rainbow of colours being added by wrasse, parrotfish and outcrop; the rock’s northern side has an average depth various chromis and damselfish. The steep, sometimes of 12m while the southern face drops off to the site’s sheer reef here consists mainly of gorgonian sea fans and maximum depth. This, the best section of the site, is a encrusting coraline. wall with numerous barrel sponges, oysters and clams on the rock face. Spiny lobsters and moray eels can often be On the wall-like reef-slope are many barrel sponges covered seen concealing themselves in the nooks and crannies. As in tubeworms and these continue right down to the sea-bed, you head east the wall disappears and you find instead, which they share with black sea cucumbers and patches of at about 15m, an area of large rocks intermixed with sea sea urchins. Fusiliers, rabbitfish and snappers hang in mid- whips. Black-tip reef sharks have been spotted along the water and black-tip reef sharks occasionally sweep past. site’s southern perimeter.
Grouper Anemonefish with eggs
184 185 direCtOry POCKET GUIDE dive thailand directory - koh phangan Koh Phangan How to get there dive facilities Koh Phangan can be reached indirectly by air, rail and road Koh Phangan is becoming an increasingly popular diving and directly by sea. destination and there’s a selection of facilities on the island ranging from small dive centres up to 5-star resort operations By air: There are no airports on Koh Phangan, but planes fly to to meet the growing demand. These are backed up by neighbouring Koh Samui, providing a relatively comfortable, numerous booking offices, which− although found along the though indirect, access to the island. Daily domestic flights island’s beaches − mainly concentrate along the west coast. with Bangkok Airways depart from Krabi, Phuket and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport. They also dive trips schedule daily flights directly to and from Singapore. Thai Airways International serves Koh Samui from Bangkok The price per diver for visiting the local sites is inclusive of Suvarnabhumi International Airport. For more information all equipment, boat, Divemaster, fruit and soft drinks. Day contact Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from trips to the further destinations of Ang Thong Marine Park, outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Thai Airways the Samran Pinnacles and Sail Rock are also all-inclusive and International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. you even get lunch and breakfast! Local dive trips include a number of sites accessed directly off the beach as well as By bus: Daily VIP air-conditioned buses from Bangkok’s some dived from Longtail boats. Southern Bus Terminal. The journey to Surat Thani takes 12 hours. Buses connect with the Express Boat in Surat Thani, Hospitals & recompression chambers or continue for an extra hour’s journey to join the ferry boat in Donsak. For information contact Bangkok Southern Bus The nearest hospitals and recompression chambers are Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. those located on Koh Samui. See page 195 for details. Phangan Medical Center in Ban Tai, to the south of By boat: Express boats depart five times daily from Surat Thong Sala, is run by Bangkok Hospital Samui and is open Thani pier, and there is a passenger ferry (day and night) 24 hours. Tel. +66 (0)75 239599 from Donsak. The journey to Koh Phangan takes two and a half hours. All boats arrive at Thong Sala jetty. Express Boats Diving Medicine Hotlines leave Koh Samui’s Na Thon pier regularly between 07.00hrs Tel. +66 (0)86 272 4618, (0)81 989 9482. and 17.00hrs and arrive at Thong Sala 45 minutes later. Boats also depart from the pier in Bo Phut and arrive at Haad dive courses Rin beach 30 minutes later. Two high speed catamarans The full range of dive courses is available on the island, up depart Koh Samui twice daily (weather permitting). For further to and including the level of Instructor. There is also a range more contact Seatran Discovery: Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8 or of technical diver training. On the whole course prices are Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran: Tel. +66(0)77 247401. typical of the area and there are good deals available for group and multiple bookings. Courses are available in a By train: There are two worthy train services from Bangkok variety of languages. to Surat Thani. The ‘Express’ train, which leaves Bangkok Hua Lumphong Railway Station every hour or so and takes around For more information on Koh Phangan contact Tourism 12 hours, and the ‘Sprinter’ train, which departs five times Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828. daily and takes around nine hours. For further information regarding train services, contact Hua Lumphong Railway Sail Rock Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.
Where to eat Aside from all the eateries and bustling activity found at the two Haad Rin beaches, the majority of the island’s resorts have their own restaurants. Most have a good selection of dishes following Thai and European recipes, and of course there’s always the delicious local seafood. For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOd thailand − launching first quarter of PG 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com 188 189 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh samui Koh Samui diving around Koh samui 2 There are several enjoyable dives to be had around Koh Samui 1 itself, all but one of which are reached by 10-90 minutes boat trips. However, the best sites are further north, requiring boat trips. More experienced divers can enjoy exciting and exhilarating deep wall-dives; divers of all levels can enjoy a variety of fringing reefs.
1 samran Pinnacles Location: About 19km north of Koh Phangan. depth: Average 18m / Maximum 28m Pelagic enthusiasts will find this site terrific, as you encounter school after school of great barracuda, threadfin trevally, big- eyed jacks, Spanish mackerel and dog-faced tuna. There are three main pinnacles – the top of the tallest is 12m below the surface – plus a mountainous terrain of scattered rocks large enough to swim around and explore. The larger of these rocks are obscured by healthy masses of soft corals, featuring 3 shimmering whites, reds, oranges and yellows. Marine life around the pinnacles consists mainly of honeycomb groupers, juvenile morays and schooling bannerfish. Large red and white 5 snappers and fusiliers wander in the deeper waters. 6 4 2 sail rock Location: 8km east of the Samran Pinnacles. depth: Average 22m / Maximum 34m This site is probably the finest in the Gulf of Thailand. It is a wall- dive surrounded by a number of smaller but still impressive pinnacles. On the northern wall; at a depth of 16m, is a great example of a Neptune barrel sponge. This impressive section of the wall is also heavily encrusted with orange sponges; many oysters and clams cling to the craggy surface.
The southeast face has a natural chimney eroded into the The fabulous beaches of Koh Samui have been attracting rock. You enter a wide orifice at 18m and ascend the chimney visitors for decades. The island – the third largest in Thailand to come out at 10m. Poisonous bearded scorpionfish and sea – is now firmly on the international tourist map. Covering urchins abound, so dive slowly and carefully, and pay special 247 sq km, the island lies 35km off the coast of Surat Thani. attention to your buoyancy! Koh Samui’s central region, comprising almost two-thirds of the island, consists of thickly wooded mountainous terrain, Next to the chimney lies an elevated plateau busy with many with coconut palms interspersed by gushing streams and forms of marine life. There are gardens of sea anemones waterfalls. tenanted by pink anemonefish. Winding yellow margined morays explore the holes and crevices, while cleaner and Finding somewhere to stay on the island couldn’t be painted shrimp, along with medium-sized reef crabs, remain easier and you don’t have to look far to find luxury hotels, in their shelters. boutique resorts, villas and natural spas; unexpectedly most are reasonably priced. There’s also all manner of major At the eastern end of the wall you can often see great retail chains and fast food outlets nestled under a blaze of barracuda – occasionally 3m long – patrolling the depths. neon signs. Thankfully, that’s not the case all around the Schools of big-eye jacks, tuna and rainbow runners mingle island. In a nutshell, these changes have transformed Koh with threadfin trevally in the shallower waters. Whale sharks Samui from what was once a ‘backpacker haven’ to a ‘family are often spotted here. friendly’ resort island. 190 191 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand Koh Samui dive CeNtres Koh Samui 3 Matlang island amui nternational iving chool Location: Off Chaweng Beach’s northern apex. s i d s depth: Average 8m / Maximum 9m Chaweng Beach The reef-flat is built up mainly of table staghorns, interspersed tel. +66 (0)77 413049-50 with gardens of sea anemones. The waters above these Fax. +66 (0)77 231242 structures provide some enjoyable snorkelling. e. [email protected] w. www.planet-scuba.net The dive continues along a shallow, sloping reef consisting mainly of elkhorn, vase and foliaceous corals. Small rocks Established back in 1982, Samui International Diving School play both anchor and host to numerous gorgonian sea fans (incorporating Planet Scuba), has and whips. The marine life is sporadic but, at the eastern over 20 years experience in scuba point of the reef, you can occasionally see black-tip reef diver education and dive tours in Thailand. They operate sharks passing by. a chain of full service dive centres on Koh Samui offering personal attention, high quality dive tours, professional 4 Chaweng reef education and an extensive range of retail products. Whatever Location: Towards the northern end of Chaweng Beach. your diving needs are the team will do their utmost to ensure depth: Average 5m / Maximum 7m you’ll have a diving experience of a lifetime. A very simple, shallow dive and the only one on the island instruction | day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox that is accessed directly from the beach. The reef-flat is Gear rental | retail | snorkelling | Accommodation popular with snorkellers as there is plenty to see. The corals have sustained slight damage from boats and siltation, but Samui International Diving School were the first in South are still fairly healthy. Parrotfish, wrasse and groupers are all East Asia to be awarded the prestigious PADI Career Development Center Rating (CDC). The GoPro Entry level common residents, with the larger specimens being more to Instructor packages can take participants from being a apparent towards the northern end of the reef. complete beginner up to a diving professional.
5 Hin Nippon – Japanese rock They run both daily and overnight tours to all the popular dive Location: Northernmost point of the Ang Thong Marine destinations ranging from the depths of Sail Rock, frequently National Park. home to the illusive whale shark, to the Ang Thong National Marine Park and Koh Tao with their sloping coral reefs and depth: Average 12m / Maximum 30m abundance of exotic and colourful marine life. Many large fallen rocks and boulders form alleyways for adventurous swim-throughs. Closer inspection reveals a diversity of invertebrates and crustaceans. The rocks are dominated by a gradually sloping reef of healthy coral laminates. Jacks, tuna and juvenile yellowtail barracuda are familiar passers-by.
6 Koh Wao Location: To the southwest of Hin Nippon depth: Average 6m / Maximum 20m The bottom composition comprises of small mounds of lesser star boulder corals punctuated with plume worms: there are also mixed table staghorns and good examples of cauliflower, lettuce and vase corals. Into the deeper waters, the reef becomes steeper. There are many sea anemones, and pink anemonefish.
Among the selection of colourful butterflyfish are raccoon, red-tailed and copperband. Around the island’s northern tip are schools of snappers and fusiliers, and you may be able to watch great barracuda and trevallies patrolling the depths. During January and February this is a good place to observe mating cuttlefish. 192 193 dive CeNtres POCKET GUIDE dive thailand directory - koh samui Koh Samui How to get there dive trips Koh Samui can be reached indirectly by air (Surat Thani Dive trips run on a daily basis and 2-day/1-night excursions to airport), rail and road and directly by air and sea. Koh Tao are available. All trips come complete with transfers between the dive boat and resort, light refreshments, fruit By air: Daily domestic flights with Bangkok Airways and drinks throughout the trip, lunch, Divemaster(s) services, depart from Krabi, Phuket and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi all equipment and two full tanks. International Airport. They also schedule daily flights directly to and from Singapore. Thai Airways International serves Koh Included in Koh Tao trips are all meals and accommodation Samui from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi International Airport. on the island. Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome on For more information contact Bangkok Airways: Within any of the scheduled dive trips – equipment and instruction Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 available. Many dive boats carry fresh water for rinsing 5555. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. diving and photographic equipment. Most have toilets and a By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern sheltered area away from the sun. Bus Terminal daily. The journey to Surat Thani takes 12 hours. Buses connect with boats services as described below. For Hospitals further information on buses contact Bangkok Southern There are four hospitals on Koh Samui. The better two Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. are listed here. By boat: Express boats depart five times daily from Surat the Bangkok samui Hospital just outside Chaweng Thani pier for the two and a half hour journey to Na Thon on Beach. Tel. +66 (0)77 429500 Koh Samui. Car and passenger ferries depart every half hour samui international Hospital on Chaweng Beach from Donsak, east of Surat Thani town, and take 90 minutes Tel. +66(0)77 230781-2 to the piers at Ban Na Sai and Na Thon. Both are met by local transfer buses. From Koh Phangan to Koh Samui there are recompression chambers regular Express Boat and speedboat services from Thong Badalveda diving Medicine Network in Bangkok Samui Sala and Haad Rin Beach, and two high speed catamarans Hospital from Thong Sala twice daily. Diving Medicine Hotlines By train: There are two main train services from Bangkok Tel. +66 (0)86 272 4618, (0)81 989 9482 to Surat Thani. The ‘Express’ train leaves Bangkok Hua e. [email protected], w. www.badalveda.com Lumphong Railway Station every hour or so and takes Hyperbaric services of thailand on Big Buddha Beach around 12 hours. The ‘Sprinter’ train departs five times Tel. +66 (0)77 427427. daily and takes around nine hours. For further information regarding train services contact Hua Lumphong Railway dive courses Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010. Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here and Where to eat there is a good selection of suitable locations for that first experience of breathing underwater. Courses are available There are hundreds of restaurants on the island, mostly right up to professional qualifications. All the instruction on around the beaches. Chaweng has a selection of International the island is taught by qualified instructors following BSAC, restaurants as does Lamai. Service can be slow but the food is CMAS, PADI and SSI diver training programs. good and reasonably priced. Koh Samui is particularly noted for its delicious seafood and creamy coconut dishes. Resorts On the whole, course prices on the island remain relatively also have their own restaurants and many are worth a visit. stable. Due to the location of the better dive sites, courses For best information and insight on where and what to eat, are slightly more expensive here than they are on the two see Pocket Guide FOOd thailand − launching first quarter of PG neighbouring islands, but most people are happy to pay 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com extra to stay on the more comfortable and lively island of Koh Samui. dive facilities Koh Samui has a selection of dive operators. Most provide For more information on Koh Samui contact Tourism diving education in some form or another. Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828.
194 195 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - pattaya Pattaya 1 Koh Luam Location: Around the southern headland of the island. depth: Average 10m / Maximum 18m The reef − fairly typical of the area − is frequently punctuated 1 by sponge-encrusted rocks and large mounds of lesser and greater star corals, occasionally split by clusters of 3 smaller, less hardy corals. The hard corals tend to dominate 4 the shallower waters: coral laminates form terraces that descend to deeper-water areas where long, spiralling sea whips are embedded among larger rocks. 2 5 2 HtMs Kut 731 wreck Location: 300m off the northeast apex of Koh Sak. depth: Average 26m / Maximum 31m 56m former USS LSM-333 Landing craft sunk during September 2006 by the Royal Thai Navy. The ship has been 6 cleared of all explosives and ammunition and there is plenty of natural light penetrating the structure. The top of the wheelhouse on this upright wreck is at 14m. The bridge and radio room still have the captain’s chair and instrumentation. Both the engines have been removed but entry to the engine 7 room is through a large hole cut in the centre of the deck.
3 HtMs Khram wreck 8 Location: 300m off the southeast apex of Koh Phai. 10 9 11 depth: Average 24m / Maximum 30m 12 This 90m LSM-1 Class landing ship was sunk on the 1st 13 February 2003. It has been cleared of all explosives and ammunition; there is also plenty of natural light penetrating the structure. Some 145km (90 miles) southeast of Bangkok, the bustling metropolis that is Pattaya City shot up during the past 35 The bridge of this upright wreck is reached in a depth of 15m years, having started primarily as a vast recreational complex and affords an unchallenging entry. The port and starboard catering for the US Armed Forces during the Vietnam War. sides provide interesting passageways in which to explore. Although the engines have been removed the dials, gauges Growing demands for accommodation were met by the and pipes all remain in the engine room. construction of guesthouses, which quickly grew into hotels and then resort complexes. Local fishermen sold fish to the Pattaya bay numerous new restaurants, and increased their income by offering fishing trips to tourists.
In due course, Pattaya became the massive entertainment centre it is today: quite literally, whatever people want, by day or night, Pattaya has it!
diving around Pattaya The local diving served by Pattaya is concentrated around two areas: the aptly named Near and Far Islands, and the group of islands accessed from Samaesan 50km south. Local diving operators use the Near Islands for training and, more significantly, for night-diving. The Far Island sites offer much better diving conditions. Pattaya also offers wreck diving. 196 197 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - pattaya Pattaya 4 Koh Klung Baden – west reef 8 Hardeep (or suddhadib) wreck Location: About 5km south of Koh Hu Chang. Location: Off the south headland of Koh Samaesan. depth: Average 8m / Maximum 12m depth: Average 28m / Maximum 32m Numerous mounds and heads of coral abound, notably This wreck is believed to be of an Indonesian steamship staghorn, as well as coral laminates. This is a very good requisitioned by the Japanese during World War II and sunk location for snorkelling. To the northwest the reef becomes by Allied bombing in 1942. The recommended (and often a relatively shallow fringing reef whose flat and slope consist only) way to dive the Hardeep is to descend down a mooring mainly of rocks and sponges. Compressed barrel sponges line directly onto the structure; free descents are not advised. shelter small crustaceans and invertebrates. The fish life at When currents are stronger you might limit exploration to this site is reasonable with numbers and varieties of chromis, the wreck’s leeward side. The ship’s structures are radiantly basslet, blenny, gobies and bannerfish, plus a few resident coloured by a multitude of soft corals, encrusting sponges, sea bicolour parrotfish and wrasse. whips and white bushes of stinging hydroids.
5 Koh Man Wichai – east reef Associated reef inhabitants are also plentiful. As you arrive, Location: About 2km south of Koh Klung Baden. moorish idols, fusiliers and snappers often shy away into depth: Average 12m / Maximum 15m the darker recesses. This wreck can be penetrated, although The sea-bed is littered with numerous clumps and mounds of a number of snagged nets restrict some passageways and smooth porite corals. Most of the corals are in large patches, caution is required. Many of the steel plates, doors and not fringing reefs, as with most of this area’s sites. The water portholes remain in place, and the engine is intact. deepens towards the south; an elongated plateau is covered in gardens of sea anemones, together with their abundant 9 Koh rong Khon symbiotes: Three-spot dascyllus and pink anemonefish. The Location: Off the northeast tip of east of Koh Chuang. waters are good for snorkellers. depth: Average 9m / Maximum 60m When entering the water in an incoming tide start at the 6 Koh rin Bay southern end of the rocks and drift in the current along the Location: About 1km southwest of Hin Khao. length of the two islands. When reaching the northern end depth: Average 7m / Maximum 14m follow the rocks around to the other side and into calmer A steadily sloping reef, consisting of fallen rocks covered waters. The northern tip of these islands is very deep and is with a few foliaceous corals, falls dramatically to the north popular with Tech divers. in the south east bay. A higher percentage of corals slowly begin to dominate the rocks to a depth of 12m, where you Xeno crab on a whip coral find sea whips and black coral bushes.
The diversity of marine life is above average for the area, with many examples of harlequin sweetlips, snappers, squirrelfish and lionfish. Communities of magnificent sea anemones, three-spot dascyllus, basslets and chromis are restricted to the rocky ledges. Neptune barrel sponges lodge among the crevices and are inhabited by moray eels and a range of invertebrates. The shallow bay is ideal for snorkelling.
7 Petchbury Bremen wreck Location: Between Koh Khram Yai and Sattahip. depth: Average: 19m / Maximum 24m This 60m steel freighter sank during the 1930s, and has settled upright on the sandy sea-bed; its highest point is just under 17m below the surface. Almost totally encrusted with marine growth, this wreck has now become an impressive artificial reef. Soft corals add a colourful frame around the eroding structures and portholes. You can still see, around the wreck, the forms of multiple pulley systems and broken parts of heavy machinery – there’s even a bathtub! 198 199 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand Pattaya dive CeNtres Pattaya 10 shark Fin rock Location: Approx 2km to the west of Koh Rong Khon. aquanauts dive centre depth: Average 15m / Maximum 28m Although on first sight this looks to be a very small dive site, it Pattaya is in fact a large reef. The main attraction is the southeastern side which features a 16m wall that almost breaks the surface. tel. +66 (0)38 361724, e. [email protected] The northwestern reef features areas of staghorn and brain w. www.aquanautsdive.com, www.divingInstructortraining.com corals, barrel sponges and sea anemones. instruction | day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental The northeastern side has a single rock formation that is retail | snorkelling | Accommodation vertical on the west and has a large sand bank sliding down From fun diving to PADI instructor training to technical to 25m, this is home to some large black-spotted stingrays. diving, Aquanauts Dive Centre is Pattaya’s most-complete Marine life is plentiful and varied. scuba diving centre. A PAdi 5-star Career development Center, Aquanauts has been training divers for 13 years. 11 Koh Chuang Location: Around 8km south of Samaesan. British-owned and operated, Aquanauts offers all PADI courses from novice to professional, including full technical depth: Average 6m / Maximum 14m dive instructor courses. They also operate the area’s largest Koh Chuang offers several shallow dive sites and is an ideal and most-modern dive boat offering all-day dive excursions training site for beginner divers. Follow the fringing coral daily to Pattaya’s Near and Far Islands and all the area’s reef down to a sandy bottom with sporadic patches of corals. shipwrecks. Common encounters include turtles rays, moral eels as well Led by two PADI Course Directors, Aquanauts is one of as fusiliers, angel and butterflyfish. Thailand’s most-active Instructor and Divemaster training centres. Both individual courses and all-inclusive, 2-6 month 12 Koh Chan internships are available. The latter includes unlimited diving, Location: Directly east of Koh Chan full accommodation, a set of new equipment, all courses, depth: Average 12m / Maximum 25m manuals, certification fees and full job placement from their The southernmost tip of the island features huge fallen exclusive Jobs4Divers.com job placement service. rocks and is a great place for snorkellers to explore - it’s not Finally, Aquanauts is the area’s leader for tech diving, offering uncommon to see small black-tip reef sharks in the shallow novice to instructor courses in technical diving, tri-mix and waters. both semi-closed and fully-closed rebreathers. The tech programme is backed by a state-of-the-art workshop with For divers, the preferred place is along the reefs following on-demand nitrox/tri-mix blending and certified Mares and along the southeast section of the island. Upon reaching Scubapro technicians. the bottom, head south into the deeper waters where large rocks are covered with a selection of soft and hard corals − including sea fans and sea whips. Blue spotted stingrays, lionfish and schools of yellowtail fusiliers can be seen here.
13 Koh Chuang Bay Location: Around the southernmost tip of Koh Chuang. depth: Average 9m / Maximum 24m Both hard and soft coral formations are abundant in the shallows. There is one large rock in the centre of the bay in 14m. A deeper 24m is encountered around the rocky outcrops at the east and western extremities of the bay. These deeper areas are subject to fast tidal flows which make ideal places to observe fish feeding action.
Large numbers of blue-ringed angelfish are another attraction of this enjoyable site.
200 201 dive CeNtres POCKET GUIDE dive thailand Pattaya direCtOry Pattaya pattaya dive centre How to get there It’s possible to access the Pattaya area by air, road and rail; air Pattaya and road are the better options. tel/fax. +66 (0)38 710918 By air: Pattaya is best served by Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Journey time to central Pattaya by road is between one-two hours. The three main carriers are: e. [email protected] Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside w. www.divecentrepattaya.com Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai instruction | day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. There is also retail | snorkelling | Accommodation an airport at U-Tapao served by Bangkok Airways. Pattaya Dive Centre, a PADI 5 Star Instructor Development Center, is right on the beachfront road, and it’s not just the By bus: Air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok every 30 location that’s the best in Pattaya. minutes from the Eastern Bus Terminal. The journey takes just under three hours. From Pattaya bus terminal to the city They stock and sell all the best brand names in diving centre and Jomtien, take one of the local taxi-buses from the equipment, including Mares, Ocean Dynamics, Sunnto dive terminal. For more information contact Bangkok Eastern computers, Coltri-Sub compressors and a comprehensive range of PADI training materials; in fact they’re the main Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 391 2504, (0)2 391 4900. distributor in the area and welcome trade enquires! And, of course, they teach PADI too. Where to eat For qualified divers, Pattaya Dive Centre schedule daily dive While the majority of Pattaya’s hotels have good restaurants, trips to all the Pattaya and Samesan prime dive sites and the general trend is to eat out. Locals claim that it’s possible wrecks. PDC owns and operates the only fast catamaran to eat in a different restaurant every night of the year and dive boat, purpose built to international standards, leaving still miss some! at 09:00 everyday. Whatever your diving needs, Pattaya Dive Centre can fulfill them, so next time you’re in the area, why The range of eateries is vast; all the well known fast food not drop in to Pattaya’s most complete and friendly dive establishments have premises here. There’s also a good centre and say hello. selection of economical restaurants with plenty of Pizza parlours, steak houses, brasseries, bistros and bakeries. Upmarket restaurants are also countless, with menus from virtually every country in the world. Local fare is also well represented with specialities including extravagant lobster dishes and hot and spicy dry curries, originating from Laos. A similar scenario exists along Jomtien Beach. For best information and insight on where and what to eat, PG see Pocket Guide FOOd thailand − launching first quarter of 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
dive facilities While the diving is divided into two main areas, the operators are based in Pattaya and Jomtien, and there’s a variety to choose from. Services range from small booking kiosks in the street up to multi-lingual 5-Star facilities and training centres. A few of the more established centres maintain a healthy retail selection.
dive trips Dive trips are scheduled on a daily basis and are particularly popular during the weekends, when you will see a quite a few dive boats heading out to sea. 202 203 direCtOry Pattaya
Trips are all-day affairs which depart in the morning and return in the late afternoon, they include transfers to and from the dive boat, two dives and lunch onboard. For the trips to the southern sites divers are transferred to the fishing village of Samaesan by local bus where they join the dive boats at one of the jetties. There are also occasional overnight trips to the sites around Koh Chang.
Hospitals There are three main hospitals that serve the area. Two are in the city centre, the other is slightly north of the town on the main route (Sukhumvit Road) to Bangkok. Bangkok Pattaya Hospital on Sukhumvit Road 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)38 259999 Pattaya international Hospital on Beach Road 24 Hr Emergency contact: Tel. +66 (0)38 428374 Pattaya Memorial Hospital on Central Road Tel. +66 (0)38 429422-4
recompression chambers The nearest chamber is part of the Badalveda diving Medicine Network and is located in the Bangkok Pattaya Hospital. Diving Medicine Hotlines +66 (0)81 989 9482, (0)86 272 4618 e. [email protected], w. www.badalveda.com
dive courses PADI and NAUI recreational and IANTD diving courses are offered in a variety of languages. Prices can vary between agencies and individual operators. Diving Internships are big news in Pattaya and Jomtien, where individuals get the chance to go from complete beginner to the professional level of diving Instructor or Divemaster over a defined period of time.
These all-in packages can include all training, materials, equipment and accommodation. Aside from the recreational dive training, technical training is a big thing here. There is also an Association of Scuba Service Engineers and Technicians (ASSET) training centre in Jomtien for those wishing to become dive industry technicians, or increase their current level of qualification.
For more information on Pattaya contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)38 427667. 204 see listing on Page 215 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh chang Koh Chang The islands amenities mainly focus around the perimeter, particularly the larger beaches which are all easily accessed by road. Getting around the island is simple as there are plenty of pickup trucks and taxis, as well as minibuses travelling to and from Trat airport. There are also tourist amenities and accommodation on the island of Koh Mak.
diving around Koh Chang The diving here still has an exciting exploratory feel to it and, 1 as they’re spread over a large area, the sites are uncrowded. Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park has a large selection of healthy fringing reefs, pinnacles and walls, as well as several very enjoyable snorkelling sites.
In general, visibility averages around 10m, although it can be 2 in excess of 20m, especially at the sites further south. Marine life is also more prolific in these areas. There are plenty of 3 colourful reef-dwellers, from minute invertebrates up to 4 giant clams. The waters also attract many large pelagics, rays 5 6 and – quite regularly – whale sharks.
1 Hin saam sao Location: About 1km west of Chai Chet.
7 depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m 9 8 Off the northwest coast of Koh Chang, this dive site has some 10 11 nice corals and rich fish life, but sometimes has poor visibility due of its close proximity to land. One side of the reef was destroyed by dynamite but it is recovering nicely.
Pipefish Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park In the country’s easternmost province of Trat, the Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park comprises 52 islands scattered along the coastline close to the Camodian border.
Established in 1982, it covers just over 650 sq km and is one of Thailand’s least visited national parks. Koh Chang is the second largest island in Thailand, with a footprint covering 240 sq. km.
Blanketed in almost impenetrable virgin rainforest, the hilly interior rises to a peak at Khao Join Prasat, which climbs to reach 744m as it dominates the centre of the island. Although wildlife is sparse, there are wild boars, hornbills, parrots and sunbirds − all of which can be seen in the forest.
Many of the island’s inhabitants still make their living from fishing, although tourism is increasingly making its mark. Nowadays quite a few of the once-familiar small resorts of bungalows and bamboo huts are being replaced, or joined, by high-end hotels, resorts and spas.
206 207 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand dive sites - koh chang Koh Chang 2 Hin Luk Bat place for spotting nudibranchs, batfish, groupers, stingrays Location: Around 3km southwest of Koh Chang. and morays making it well worth visiting. depth: Average 11m / Maximum 18m This is one of the prime dive sites around Koh Chang. The 5 Hin rap dive is around a pinnacle that acts as refuge to plenty of Location: Around 300m south of Blueberry Hill. schooling fish, making it enjoyable for snorkellers too. The depth: Average 11m / Maximum 16m steeply sloping walls feature numerous barrel sponges and This site can be divided into two dives. The first is around the shelves of relatively healthy soft corals, colour is added by rock, and is a good place to spot turtles, batfish, stonefish, large areas of Christmas tree worms. porcupine fish, stingrays, and morays amongst both hard and soft corals. The pinnacle itself is surrounded by huge boulders that offer great swim-throughs. In the deeper waters are Away from the reef barracudas frequently pass by. The crown of thorn starfish, bushy black corals, sea whips and second, northern section is a bit deeper and displays more small gorgonian sea fans. The plankton-enriched waters corals along with a lovely small canyon. Fish life in evidence afford a good diversity of marine life, including angelfish, includes anemonefish, angelfish, groupers, parrotfish and bannerfish, butterflyfish, fusiliers, groupers, parrotfish, triggerfish. Rays and morays are also regular encounters as is snappers, morays, stingrays, and barracuda. This is also a the occasional turtle. good site for night diving. The waters here are more often than not very clear and are 3 Hin rua tek popular with snorkellers. Location: 3km south of koh Chang. depth: Average 10m / Maximum 20m 6 Koh Wai This rocky dive site, also referred to as Banana Rock, is in Location: Immediately east of Koh Khlum. nice surroundings, which also makes it a popular snorkelling depth: Average 9m / Maximum 20m destination. Many crevices shelter small critters such as This is a nice shallow fringing reef, consisting of mainly hard shrimps, lobsters and nudibranchs. Although corals are not corals with soft corals along the deeper part of the reef-slope. in abundance there is a good variety including large tables of The best features are at depths shallower than 12m, making staghorns, gorgonian sea fans, soft corals and sponges. the site suitable for the less experienced.
4 Blueberry Hill The shallower parts of the reef are characterised by a plentiful Location: Around 5km south of Koh Chang. range of reef-fish and small invertebrates. An attraction of depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m the deeper waters is that you may be lucky enough to spot This site is best described as a bare rock full of fish, although a leopard shark or a stingray on the sandy bottom. Being the south side does have corals! However, this is a great reasonably sheltered, this is a fine site for night diving.
Koh Chang west coast
208 209 dive sites POCKET GUIDE dive thailand Koh Chang dive CeNtres Koh Chang 7 Koh Kra Location: Off the northeast shore of Koh Rang Yai. kalypso depth: Average 7m / Maximum 12m Bang Bao Although snorkelling is the major appeal here, these islands tel. +66 (0)39 558134 also offer some beautiful diving. The rocks are pitted with Hotline. +66 (0)80 077 7830 numerous crevasses rich in marine life, and the corals are e. [email protected] very healthy and varied, including big tables of staghorn w. www.divessiclub.com corals co-existing with anemones of all sizes and colours. Further down, on the sandy bottom, you should be able to instruction | day trips | Nitrox | tec diving | retail spot a blue-spotted ribbontail and blotched rays idling. internships | snorkelling Kalypso welcomes you as the first SSI Instructor Trainer Center 8 Koh tien West on the beautiful island of Koh Chang. This ECO-friendly Dive Location: Off the northwest coast of Koh Rang. Club is situated in Bang Bao near the end of the pier. depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m With an in-house Course Director they are the only dive On the south side of the island is an enormous staghorn coral centre on the island that can offer instructor courses all year formation well worth exploring, as many fish shelter amongst round. Together with the multilingual and well-qualified the sharp coral branches. Also a great snorkelling site. team, Kalypso SSI Dive Club stands for first class service and state of the art facilities. 9 Koh rang Pinnacles All diving courses and diving and snorkelling trips are Location: West of Koh Tien West. conducted on a choice of either a large dive boat complete depth: Average 15m / Maximum 30m with sundeck, shower and toilet or luxury speedboat and A great multi-level site and a strong favourite with underwater include full insurance and complementary pick-up service photographers. Of the two main pinnacles, one is at 12m, the from anywhere on the island. Besides all the SSI courses, other at 5m; the seabed between them is at 21m. There is a Kalypso can offer courses from SDI, TDI and PADI as well. good shelf of coral on the deeper pinnacle, at about 15m. The site’s western side consists of coral drop-offs. Parrotfish are plentiful and reef sharks are often spotted. Smaller blue- spotted ribbontail rays are on view at about 12m. Pelagics often intrude into the surrounding waters, most of which are barracuda, but there are also cobias.
10 Koh yak and Koh Laun Location: About 1 km to the east of Koh Rang. depth: Average 8m / Maximum 12m These small islands are fringed with a very beautiful coral reef, with a rich diversity of marine life. Both islands are small enough to dive around, and due to the shallow depths there should be enough time to explore them in detail.
11 Hin Kuak Ma Location: About 1km east Koh Yak and Koh Laun. depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m This is one of the best dives in this area. The south side of the site is a rocky wall, where it is good to spot a variety of marine life such as eels, nudibranchs and stonefish. The opposite side of the rock is a slope, covered in coral, and with an abundance of fish. Amongst the common residents of reef fishes, blue-spotted ribbontail rays and morays are occasionally encountered, along with bamboo sharks and turtles. The waters around this site, also referred to as Three Finger Rock, are good for snorkelling.
210 211 direCtOry POCKET GUIDE dive thailand directory - koh chang Koh Chang
How to get there Nitrox is available for those qualified, and for those not, Koh Chang can be reached indirectly by air and road and instruction is available. Night diving is offered, but its best directly by sea. to enquire in advance as timetables vary. Overnight diving safaris to the area are occasionally organized by Pattaya Dive By air: Bangkok Airways fly to Trat airport on a daily basis, Centre in Pattaya City. where taxis can be arranged for the transfer to the island. For dive courses more information contact Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Dive courses are available in several languages. Full equipment and certification is included in all the course prices. Courses By bus: Air-conditioned buses leave daily from Bangkok’s available are non-certification try-out experiences as well as Eastern Bus Terminal. The journey to Trat Town takes around the full range of recreational courses from beginner up to the five hours. On arrival, passengers transfer to the pier as Laem professional level of instructor are scheduled on a daily basis. Ngop. For further information contact Bangkok Eastern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 391 4900. Hospitals By boat: Car and passenger ferries depart every 30 minutes There is one hospital and one international clinic on Koh from Laem Ngop for the short crossing. Chang. Koh Chang Government Hospital in Ban Dan Mai, on Where to eat the northern section of the western coast The island’s resorts have their own eating facilities, and most Tel. +66 (0)39 521657, (0)39 586131. have a good choice of local seafood dishes and a European Koh Chang international Clinic on White Sand Beach menu. There are also plenty of independent eateries on all (associated with the Bangkok Trat Hospital) the main beaches and dotted along the roads in-between. Tel. +66 (0)39 551151-2, (0)81 863 3609. Bangkok trat Hospital in Trat Town on the mainland One particular place worth checking out is the series of 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from seafood restaurants along the narrow jetty at Bang Bao, here outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)39 532735 you can pick and choose your menu from what’s on display. recompression chambers For best information and insight on where and what to eat, There is a hyperbaric chamber in the Koh Chang see Pocket Guide FOOd thailand − launching first quarter of PG Government Hospital, with a trained nurse on standby, 2009 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com but not a qualified doctor. dive facilities Koh Chang Government Hospital Tel. +66 (0)39 521657, (0)39 586131. There’s a good selection of operators, large and small, mainly The next nearest chamber is located over 160km away down the western coastline. Most have associated booking in Pattaya’s Bangkok Pattaya Hospital and is part of the offices and facilities in various resorts and shopping plazas. Badalveda diving Medicine Network. Testamant to the warm, friendly atmosphere is the high level Bangkok Pattaya Hospital of repeat business making up a large part of the clientele. Many 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from dive centres also offer a retail selection; if they don’t have an outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)38 259999 item in stock, they can have it delivered on the same day. Diving Medicine Hotlines dive trips Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482, +66 (0)86 272 4618 [email protected] | www.badalveda.com Dive trips visit all the local sites, either on dedicated dive boats or speedboats. Trips commence in the morning when divers and snorkellers are collected from the various resorts around the island and taken to the awaiting dive boats. Trips return in the afternoon at various times For more information on Koh Chang, contact Tourism depending on which destination has been visited. Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)38 427662. 218 219 ALPHABetiCAL iNdex POCKET GUIDE dive thailand alphabetical index
dive Centres destination introductions
All 4 Diving, Phuket ...... 98 Chang (Koh) ...... 206
Ao Nang Divers, Krabi ...... 140 Khao Lak ...... 113 Aqua Vision Dive Center, Krabi ...... 141 Krabi ...... 135 Aquamarine Divers, Phuket ...... 99 Lanta (Koh) ...... 157 Aquanauts Dive Center, Pattaya ...... 201 Big Blue Diving, Khao Lak ...... 114 Mergui Archipelago ( The)...... 131 Big Blue Diving Resort, Koh Tao ...... 174 Pattaya ...... 196
Blue Planet Divers, Koh Lanta ...... 162 Phangan (Koh) ...... 181 Buddha View, Koh Tao ...... 175 Phi Phi (Koh) ...... 148 Crystal Dive Resort, Koh Tao ...... 176 Phuket ...... 93 Dive Asia, Phuket ...... 100 Dolphin Divers, Koh Chang ...... 212 Samui (Koh) ...... 190 Eden Divers, Phuket ...... 101 Similan Marine National Park (Mu Koh) ...... 122
Haad Yao Divers, Koh Phangan ...... 186 Surin Marine National Park (Mu Koh) ...... 129 iQ Dive, Khao Lak ...... 115 Tao (Koh) ...... 169 Kalypso, Koh Chang ...... 211 Ko Lanta Diving Center, Koh Lanta ...... 163 destination directories Koh Chang Dive Supply, Koh Chang ...... 213 Chang (Koh) ...... 218 Kontiki Krabi, Krabi ...... 142 Khao Lak ...... 120 Kontiki Lanta, Koh Lanta ...... 164 Lanta Diver, Koh Lanta ...... 165 Krabi ...... 145 Manta Point Dive Center, Krabi ...... 143 Lanta (Koh) ...... 167
Mermaid Liveaboards, Phuket ...... 102 Pattaya ...... 203 Ocean Geo Divers, Phuket ...... 103 Phangan (Koh) ...... 188 Palm Beach Divers, Koh Lanta ...... 166 Phi Phi (Koh) ...... 155 Pattaya Dive Centre, Pattaya ...... 202 Phangan Divers, Koh Phangan ...... 187 Phuket ...... 111 Phi Phi Scuba Diving Center, Koh Phi Phi ...... 152 Samui (Koh) ...... 194
Phra Nang Divers, Krabi ...... 144 Tao (Koh) ...... 179 Planet Scuba, Koh Tao ...... 177 Princess Divers, Koh Phi Phi ...... 153 Features
Samui International Diving School, Koh Samui ...... 193 About Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand ...... 14 Santana Diving & Canoeing, Phuket ...... 104 About the author ...... 12 Scandanavian Divers, Phuket ...... 105 Diving and snorkelling in and around Thailand ...... 42 Scandanavian Divers, Khao Lak ...... 116 Scuba Cat Diving, Phuket ...... 106 Health and safety for divers ...... 32 Scuba Junction, Koh Tao ...... 178 Introduction to Thailand ...... 16
Scuba-evolution, Koh Chang ...... 214 Learning to dive in Thailand ...... 52 Sea Bees Diving, Phuket ...... 107 Travelling to and around Thailand ...... 24 Sea Bees Diving, Khao Lak ...... 117 Sea Dragon Dive Center, Khao Lak ...... 118 Sea World Dive Team, Phuket ...... 108 Siam Adventure Divers, Khao Lak ...... 119 Sunrise Diving, Phuket ...... 109 The Dive Adventure, Koh Chang ...... 215 Viking Divers, Koh Phi Phi ...... 154 Water World Asia, Phuket ...... 110 P Water World Diving, Koh Chang ...... 216 G White Sand Dive Centre, Koh Chang ...... 217 220 221