POCKET GUIDE D I V E T H A I L A N D INCLUDING THE MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO www.diveguidethailand.com PAUL LEES PG 2009 EDITION Australia A$17.60 (incl. GST) Europe €11 Singapore S$22.50 (incl.GST) Thailand B450 UK £7.50 USA US$14.50 Sweden SEK105 POCKET GUIDE Dive Thailand Cover photo & above: Golden damselfish (Amblyglyphidodon aureus) CONTENTS Map of Thailand & the region 10 About the author 12 About Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand 14 Introduction to Thailand 16 Travelling to & around Thailand 24 Health & safety for divers 32 Diving & snorkelling in & around Thailand 42 Learning to Dive in Thailand 52 The Andaman Sea Phuket 93 Khao Lak 113 Mu Koh Similan Marine National Park 122 Mu Koh Surin Marine National Park 129 The Mergui Archipelago 131 Krabi 135 Koh Phi Phi 147 Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park 157 The Gulf of Thailand Western Seaboard Koh Tao 169 Koh Phangan 181 Koh Samui 190 Eastern Seaboard Pattaya 196 Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park 206 Alphabetical index of dive centres 220 Published by Sun Offa Beach Co., Ltd., 29/116 Moo 2, Chuan Chuen Lagoon, T. Koh Kaew, A. Muang, Phuket 83002, Thailand, in cooperation with Phuket Publicity Services Part., Ltd. EDITOR: Wilai Suksalee. [email protected], www.golfguidethailand.com PRINTER: Siam Offset Co., Ltd, 9/1 Soi Sriaksorn Tungmahamek, Bangkok 10120 ©2008 Sun Offa Beach Co., Ltd and Phuket Publicity Services Part., Ltd. All rights reserved. The contents of this book may not be reproduced or copied in any form – printed, electronic, photocopy or otherwise – except for excerpts used in reviews, without the written permission of the copyright holders. Text & photography, © Paul Lees (unless otherwise stated in the book). Design & layout, © Grenville Fordham. 8 OVERVIEW MAPS Dive Thailand Thailand & neighbouring countries Principal diving destinations 10 ABOUT THE AUTHOR Paul Lees ritish born writer and photographer, Paul Lees, has travelled extensively throughout Asia, gaining first-hand Binsight and absorbing local perspective along the way. Numerous valuable experiences have been stored in the form of pictures and words, which have since appeared in many internationally acclaimed publications including New Holland’s best selling coffee table presentations Top Dive Sites of the Indian Ocean, The Dive Atlas of the World and Diving with Giants, as well as Dorling Kindersley’s Eyewitness Guide to Thailand. Aside from spearheading the Pocket Guide series, Paul holds the qualification of Master Instructor under two scuba diving training agencies. He also specialises in underwater photography and is a regular contributor to regional and international scuba diving magazines. He has also been bringing the underwater world to the surface in the form of natural history documentaries and TV shows, including ABC Kane’s The Living Edens and the BBC’s Really Wild Show. When not engrossed with the range of Pocket Guide titles, he continues to pay attention to expanding his extensive image library on subjects both above and below the ocean surface. Paul currently lives in Thailand with his family. photo by Wilai Suksalee by photo 12 ABOUT POCKET GUIDE Dive Thailand his, the 2009 edition of Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand, Tfollows the Pocket Guide philosophy: written by experts who are passionate about their subject and widely distributed to reach active, travelling divers and those interested in taking up the sport, providing an informative, quality publication. The contents of the book start with a series of introduction sections, namely: Introduction to Thailand, Travelling to & around Thailand, Diving & snorkelling in & around Thailand, plus a section on Health & safety when diving. The book then covers the different diving regions, each with its own introduction and map, plus descriptions of the region’s featured divesites. These are followed by detailed listings of featured dive operators and a regional directory of local services and travelling logistics. Each dive operator listing and directory has a uniform layout to maintain the high standard and profile that are the hallmarks of a Pocket Guide publication. Although every effort has been made in putting together this, the 2009 Edition of Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand, there is always the possibility of changes to the conditions at divesites or facilities offered after going to print. If you find that we have misrepresented any details, please send an email telling us what you found wrong. Your input will help us correct errors for the next edition, which will contain credits to all readers who have kindly supplied valuable input. Comments to: [email protected] If you have enjoyed this title, or we trust found it useful, there are other topic-specific guides in the series. Pocket Guide GOLF Thailand gives an in-depth overview of each of the golfing regions around the country including featured courses and how best to play them. These are complemented by, amongst others, informative sections covering golfing tips and tricks, healthy playing, golf for all the family and living the golfing lifestyle. A worthy companion to any players’ scorecard! Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand (due for release first quarter 2009) is packed with signature dish recipes and how to create them from top restaurants around Thailand. There are also sections covering regional flavours, different cooking styles, preparation and presentation techniques, as well as healthy and alternative ingredient suggestions making it an ideal meal planner and food shopping guide where ever you are. After all, everyone has to eat! 14 INTRODUCTION to Thailand t the heart of South East Asia, Thailand is an independent kingdom combining 20th-century sophistication with an Aancient culture that has evolved over the past 700 years. Covering just over 500,000 sq km it is bordered by Malaysia to the south, Myanmar to the west, Laos to the north and Cambodia to the east. It is unique amongst Southeast Asian nations in that it has never been occupied by a foreign colonial power. Largely as a result, it has maintained a cohesive sense of national identity and traditional culture. Tourism With over five million annual visitors, Thailand is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Asia. It has an enormous amount to offer, from ancient temples to rainforests and remote islands with palm-fringed beaches – and, of course, coral reefs teeming with life for divers and snorkellers. Tourism is an important part of the kingdom’s service economy. The country has also recently become a bit of a golfers’ paradise. In relation to its neighbours, Singapore, Hong Kong, One of Thailand’s many glorious golf courses 16 INTRODUCTION POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILANDTHAILAND THAILAND - INTRODUCTION to Thailand Taiwan, Korea and Japan, it’s excellent value for money. As Isan a result, many Asian and European tourists now visit in the Separated from Laos by the Mekong River, the northeast winter months from November to March and enjoy a wide plateau is dominated by agriculture (rice, fruit and vegetables) range of impressive golf facilities all around the country. and is one of the poorest regions in the country. For best information and insight on where, when and how to Known as Isan, this region has a distinct culture and dialect play, see Pocket Guide GOLF Thailand and its online version, PG (reflecting its proximity to Laos), and although it is the least www.golfguidethailand.com developed area in Thailand, this part of the country is well worth visiting, with ancient stone temples dating back Bangkok and the regions of Thailand almost 10 centuries. Isan is growing in importance as the The population of Thailand is around 60 million, with gateway to Laos. approximately 10 million people living in the capital, Bangkok. This massive, vibrant, traffic-bound city dominates Central Plains the country’s central region and functions as the cultural, The central plains are another important rice-growing area religious, economic and political centre of the country. and, although most visitors tend to pass them by on their way further north, there are ancient cities, such as Ayutthaya Thailand is divided into four distinct regions: the mountainous and Sukhothai, which repay exploration. north, the vast northeast plateau, the central plains, and the narrow Isthmus of Kra to the south, stretching down to the The Andaman Sea border with Malaysia. It’s the islands and beaches of southern Thailand that hold the greatest appeal for tourists and, whether you’re looking for Once covered in teakwood forests, the mountainous solitude or sophisticated nightlife, there is plenty of choice. northern region appeals to the adventurous traveller, with one of the main attractions being the prospect of trekking The Andaman coastline, to the west of the Kra Isthmus, through remote – and not so remote – villages inhabited by a boasts fabulous scenery and dazzling beaches. The largest diversity of tribal peoples. The main focal point for the region and best-known of the island destinations here is Phuket, is the growing centre of Chiang Mai, Thailand’s ‘second’ city. which has been attracting tourists for a number of years and is now in full swing, high-rise hotels appear inexorably above From the viewpoint, just south of Kai Bae on Koh Chang the palm trees. Further south, the island of Koh Phi Phi and the beaches around Krabi on the mainland are slowly but surely building a foothold on the tourist map and, although not as established as Phuket, they are geared up to welcome all visitors – from independent travellers to families – as is the more remote and charming island of Koh Lanta Yai further south. The Gulf of Thailand In the Gulf of Thailand, on the other side of the Kra Isthmus, the most established destination is the island of Koh Samui; the other islands within the Samui Archipelago, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, are also popular tourist and diving destinations.