GARD MORE LAGO DI GARDA • • GARDASEE Calzà Gianpaolo - “Montagne del ”, Cierre Edizioni Photo: © Calzà Gianpaolo - “Montagne del Veneto”,

YEAR 6 • N. 11 | SPRING 2021 CIERRE GRAFICA 2 ••• ••• 3 GARD MORE Editorial “Art does not reproduce the visible but makes visible.”, wrote Paul Klee. And we keep creating the visi- ble of Lake Garda, in a stubborn direction and on the contrary to the general difficulties of this period. We are ready for an online version of the magazine in special edition - the number 11 -, which repro- duces covers and articles of previous issues, because the personal perspective of the reader, the feelings of the viewer are changing over time. There is so much to perceive and enjoy of Lake Garda, that still resting on the landscapes, views, words and images makes us feel comforted in the desire to return soon to its shores. Happy spring and see you in summer.

The Director Claudia Farina

SPECIAL RELEASE WITH 3 DIFFERENT COVERS, FIND THEM OUT! GARD MORE GARD MORE LAGO DI GARDA • LAKE GARDA • GARDASEE LAGO DI GARDA • LAKE GARDA • GARDASEE Calzà Gianpaolo - “Montagne del Veneto”, Cierre Edizioni Photo: © Calzà Gianpaolo - “Montagne del Veneto”, Cierre Edizioni Photo: © Calzà Gianpaolo - “Montagne del Veneto”,

ANNO 6 • N. 11 | PRIMAVERA 2021 JAHRGANG 6 • N. 11 | FRÜHLING 2021 CIERRE GRAFICA CIERRE GRAFICA

Cover: © Calzà Gianpaolo - “The Veneto Mountains”, Cierre Edizioni

2 ••• ••• 3 IL RICHIAMO DELLO Gard more SHOPPING LAGO DI GARDA • LAKE GARDA • GARDASEE

musa: museum of salò

www.pilandro.com salò • peschiera

peschiera and fishing

characters of garda www.illeonedilonato.com PILANDRO WINE SHOP Degustazioni - Wine tasting - Wein proben

orari di apertura opening hours öffnungszeiten Lunedì-Venerdì: Monday-Friday: Montag-Freitag: 8.30-18.00 8.30-18.00 8.30-18.00 itineraries of garda Sabato: 8.30-12.30 Saturday: 8.30-12.30 Samstag: 8.30-12.30 14.00 - 18.00 14.00 - 18.00 14.00 - 18.00 Domenica: 8.30-12.30 Sunday: 8.30-12.30 Sonntag: 8.30-12.30 9.00 - 22.00 7 GIORNILocalità SU 7Pilandro, 1 - (BS) (Uscita/Exit/Ausfahrt: A4 ) - GPS: N 45° 44’ 10” E 10° 61’ 17” issn 2499-7730

• anno 1 • n. 1 • primavera-estate 2016 a more • anno 1 n. primavera-estate anno 1 • n. 1 | primavera-estate 2016 | € 5,00 T.USCITA +39 030 DESENZANO 991 0363 - - a +392 km 331 dir. Mantova 740 9104 - www.pilandro.com - [email protected] cierre grafica

gard ••• 5 IL RICHIAMO DELLO Gard more SHOPPING LAGO DI GARDA • LAKE GARDA • GARDASEE

musa: museum of salò salò • peschiera gargnano

peschiera and fishing

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itineraries of garda

9.00 - 22.00 7 GIORNI SU 7 issn 2499-7730

• anno 1 • n. 1 • primavera-estate 2016 a more • anno 1 n. primavera-estate anno 1 • n. 1 | primavera-estate 2016 | € 5,00 USCITA DESENZANO - a 2 km dir. Mantova cierre grafica gard ••• 5 6 ••• ••• 7 6 ••• ••• 7 8 ••• ••• 9 Museum of Salò

text: Claudia Farina / photos: Bams, MuSa Archive

MuSa: personalities, eras, heydays, tragedies, science, art... all are documented here at the Museum in the town of Salò. This recently opened establishment deserves a slow and thorough visit, as it provides a first-hand account of national and interna- tional history. The collection is a miscellany divided into thematic sections, logically grouped together to portray the events of Salò, from the achievements of the Venetian era to the dark times of the Italian Social Republic. The “Gallery of Characters” room is dedicated to characters from Salò, including Anton Maria Mucchi (1871– 1945), who rebuilt the historical and cultural identity of the city.

THE CENTURIES OF

This is the era of Salò’s supremacy on the Community of Riviera, or “Magnificent Motherland” during the time of the Serenissima (the ), 1426-1797. The demographic data is particularly significant: halfway through the 1400s, there were 3 thousand inhabitants – the same as in Turin and Treviso. A shrewd cultural and artistic policy contributed to the city becom- ing a capital, as evidenced by the treasures acquired by the Mu-

8 ••• ••• 9 Museum of Salò

Personalities, eras, heydays, tragedies, science, art

nicipality for the Church, rebuilt from 1453. Among the artifacts worth seeing at the MuSa are illuminated manuscripts, such as an Atlantic Bible of the Roman school dating back to the early decades of the 12th century, four Veronese chorals from the late fourteenth century and the five leather bindings with brass fittings from 1524, as well as paintings commissioned for the palaces of the Municipality and the Commissioner of Venice. The perspectival display of violins reveals that we are now in the room dedicated to Gasparo da Salò (1540-1609), a famous violin-maker – a master of his craft acknowledged by his suc- cessors and by collectors such as D’Annunzio, who devised the famous Luthier Cup created by Renato Brozzi (1924), which is exhibited here. Gasparo’s emotionally-charged Contrabbasso Biondo (1590) can be enjoyed here by the public on a weekly basis.

Opening times Open daily from 10am AMONG THE EMPIRES AND MITTELEUROPA to 6pm closed on Mondays With the fall of the Venetian Republic (1797) and the end of Aus- trian rule (1859), Salò lost its secular supremacy in favour of an Ticket prices institutional, urban and social transformation. € 8.00 full price Various items bear witness to this period, including Napoleon’s € 5.00 concessions camp bed (1802), which is exhibited thanks to a partnership € 4.00 concessions with the Napoleonic Museum in , and the Garib- for schools aldi heirlooms donated by the Museo Storico del Nastro Azzurro and various gratuities (which can be visited on the floor below), as well as the Mutual Aid Society of Salò. Tel. 0365 20553 The artistic vitality of the city is depicted through drawings and [email protected] portraits of Salò society between the late 1800s and 1920s, www.museodisalo.it when it began to experience a boost in its tourism appeal.

10 ••• ••• 11 SCIENTIFIC SECTIONS OF THE MUSEUM

Those who are interested in fossilized bodies and anatomical specimens, in particular those made famous by the Salò physi- cian Giovan Battista Rini (1795-1856), will be pleased to find that the Museum has a room dedicated to these particular in- terests. Enter with caution, unless you are medical students...! The weather Observatory is another very interesting aspect of the Museum – the seismic and exposure tools date back to nineteenth-and early twentieth-century heritage, and include the reorganization of the Seismology Observatory.

ITALIAN SOCIAL REPUBLIC

The historical trail of Salò ends appropriately with a set of testi- monials of the 600 days of the Social Republic, with images and words of the protagonists, including two partisans and two repub- da giotto licans. At the entrance, there is a video showing images of CSR a de ChiriCo buildings, some of which have become well-known tourist places. I TESORI NASCOSTI 13 APRILE - 6 NOVEMBRE 2016 a cura di V i t t o r i o S g a r b i

ART

Il MuSa si trova in Via Brunati, 9 - Salò (BS) 0365/20553 • [email protected] The signs show “20th-century art” and the graphics display the “Civic Design Collection”, founded in Salò in 1983 to document The next event Italian art, from the great masters of the early twentieth century (De Pisis, Romanis, Martini, Licini, Fontana, Sironi) to the ab- is the exhibition stract works of Soldati, Dorazio, Accardi and Sanfilippo, the infor- From Giotto to De Chirico mal creations of Birolli, Morlotti, Vedova, Mandelli and Afro, and which will be held finally the neo-figurative positions of Forgioli, Francese, Cavaliere from April to October and Stagnoli, right up to the latest expressions.

10 ••• ••• 11 12 ••• ••• 13 Peschiera and fishing

text: Claudia Farina / photos: Bams, Fishing Museum Archive

An abundance of fish and fishermen, various boats, parties, spe- cial occasions and interesting characters. In , fishing was an economic activity, the basis of nutrition, and a style of life up until World War II. Indeed, it was this abundance of fish that inspired the name Piscaria, which the Lombards substituted for the town’s previous Roman toponym, Arilica. Today, memory and material culture are well preserved in the Mu- seum of Fishing and local Traditions, in the Radetzky Room of the artillery barracks at Porta . There are three sectors for visi- tors: the pictures, objects and memorabilia on display; the impas- sioned stories of Rolando Righetti, Giordano Turina and Enza Lo- nardi of the Amici del Gondolin Association; the fascinating book written by Gianluigi Miele, Il pesce, la festa e la penitenza (Fish, Celebrations and Penance) published by Cierre edizioni. It is an emblematic account of the importance of the town of Peschiera in the fishing economy, thanks to its lake and riverside location, where the Mincio river flows out of Lake Garda.

12 ••• ••• 13 Peschiera and fishing

THE LUGO BROTHERS’ ESTABLISHMENT

“At the end of the nineteenth century and in the subsequent decades, there was an establishment in Peschiera which, in ad- dition to acting as a hatchery, collected and preserved fish for commercial purposes. It was located at the mouth of the Mincio river, so the tanks, which contained the living fish delivered daily by fishermen, were fed by fresh water from the river, which is es- sential for the survival of trout. The most important feature of the plant, as remembered still by the elderly townspeople, was the ice-making machine, which was probably unique on the Lake at that time. The fish went to market first in Milan, but could also reach as far as France, Austria and Switzerland...” – where the Opening times most prized fish such as trout, eels and lake carp were exported The Museum is open – while “bleak, pilchard, tench and carp were sold in Verona, Pe- Saturdays, schiera or other nearby towns.” Sundays and holidays 10am-12.30 and 4-6pm, July and August till 10pm INTERESTING ARTIFACTS

Ticket prices At the very entrance of the Museum we find some unusual ob- Admission free jects, such as the Garda Gondolino (re-designed version) and the Anguilara from the late 1800s, recovered from the seabed below To book tours tel.: the bridge of Voltoni in 2007. There is a typical Jole, a rowing boat Rolando 338 2734508 originating from Lake Como, once used in races that took place Giordano 348 3157964 on Lake Garda; a small torbetta, which is not a boat as such de- spite being shaped like one; rather, it is a kind of a container used [email protected] for fish, that once filled, was sunk by fishermen to keep fish alive www.amicidelgondolin.it and retrieve them as needed or when they were to be sold. Leav- ing the gallery, you enter the first of the museum’s eight rooms where, lying on its side, there is an old spingarda, a pedal-boat

14 ••• ••• 15 which was used on Lake Garda for hunting coots and wild geese found in the stretch of water facing Peschiera. The boat is decorated with a series of moulds, which hunters used as a decoy to fool the birds and lure them within shooting range. After passing the spingarda room, we move to the room which houses engines and mechanical parts, with a series of old out- board motors which are still fully operational. There is also an area with fishing equipment, showing scenes on the walls from the book “I Pescatori del Garda” (“The fishermen of Garda”) by Giorgio Vedovelli and created by Piero Basso. Next comes the “calatafari”, old master carpenters who built and maintained the boats, often on the lake. There are some striking images of Pe- schiera from yesteryear, including photos of Rosella Orlandi, the last and perhaps only fisherwoman, who is still active today. Tak- ing leave of the Amici del Gondolin, the visit ends with a modern slant: the Sandolin, a boat that is a close relative of the current kayak, made entirely of wood, and a typical canotto da lago (lake canoe) a type of keel yacht that is still used today by fishermen on Lake Garda.

14 ••• ••• 15 Pagina RANA_165x240.indd 1 13/04/16 11:17

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GARDASEE IN THEDEPTHSOFLAKEGARDA CHARACTERS OFGARDA ITINERARIES OFGARDA ISSN 2499-7730 MUSEUM SISÀN 18 ••• ••• 19 In the depths of Lake Garda

text: Claudia Farina / photos: Deep Explorers Archive, Archive

While mending their nets on long winter evenings, for centuries fishermen have told how the Etruscan Benaco (another name for Lake Garda), full of towers and palaces, sank because of an earthquake near Toscolano. The same fate befell the ancient Gar- da, at the foot of La Rocca. For those who knew how to hear it, the whistling of the wind carried the tolling of a bell, an echo from the submerged city, Garda’s Atlantis. Legends of the Lake... or simply the enthusiasm caused by one glass too many? It’s certainly true that, in enchanting places such as Sirmione, Desenzano and Punta San Vigilio there were Roman villas and temples; prehistoric settlements along the banks and raised up on stilts anthropised the southern part, from Salò to Garda. It was not only finds of the bronze and Roman ages which were caught up in fishermen’s nets. Indeed, as early as the 18th century, the fishermen told of Venetian galleys, and one of these can still be found, at a depth of 27 metres, near . Today, sophisticated technological tools make it possible to plumb the depths, beginning with the mission of the famous oceano- grapher Jacques Piccard, who swept the bottom of Lake Garda in 1981 and released spectacular images. “Lake Garda is one of the most beautiful lakes in Europe. But the Benaco will only remain a jewel of if industrial development

18 ••• ••• 19 and tourism do not destroy it, and only if the necessary precautions are taken, on a permanent basis. To this end, the first condition is to keep abreast of the physical health of the lake”. These are the words of the scientist himself, spoken in an open letter to the community of Lake Garda 35 years ago.

EXPLORERS OF THE LAKE FLOOR

Scuba divers, when sounding the depths, experience great rushes of emotion, the thrill of discovery; and they find all kinds of things. Angelo Modina, for example, dives down, then locates, photographs and films his findings, along with his colleagues at theDeep Explorers Association, a non-profit organiza- tion that aims to enhance and preserve the lake floor. Regarding the various research studies and their results, here are a few of Modina’s thoughts, beginning with the near disappearance of carp, the noble fish native to Lake Garda. “Using a ROV - a wire-guided robot equipped with cameras, engines and a sophisticated sonar – divers have explored a section of the lake from Gargnano, the carp’s preferred

Centro culturale di ricerca sismica e geologica strutturale benacense The activities of the Salò-based Centro culturale di ricerca sismica e geologica strutturale benacense (Gar- da Cultural Centre for Seismic and Structural Geological Research), chaired by Piero Fiaccavento, are de- signed to pursue the following objectives:  providing support for university geology students working in the field of earthquake engineering.  organising simplified geology courses for elementary, middle and high school students.  providing support to other organisations/associations for projects concerning the geology of the Garda area (seismic, geophysics, geothermal energy).  fostering scientific dissemination and awareness concerning seismic issues of Lake Garda. https://sites. google.com/site/centroricercasismicabenacense/

20 ••• ••• 21 environment, to , noting that where the fish survive, there are clean rocks with small faults that act as sweepers, while the carp disappears whenever sediment is present. There are those who believe that the repopulation of lake whitefish could be a con- tributing cause of the disappearance of carp, as they greedily take plankton from the carp.” A chapter of great interest about the findings. Here are a few. In Castelletto di Brenzone, the Diana cargo boat was found intact but for the sails. It sank to a depth of 100 metres during a bad manouevre in the 1930s. In addition to this is the various memo- rabilia from the First and Second World Wars. Documented by the report of the pilot who was travelling in an airplane next to his, a Thunderbolt P 47 piloted by young lieutenant Allen Truman went down in Lake Garda on 26th April 1945 at 2pm, a fact confirmed by witnesses at the time. It has been located at a depth of 200 metres between Maderno and Torri, thanks to the Side Scan So- nar, a kind of large scanner, and soon it will be photographed.

THE MYSTERIES AND CHARM OF ISOLA DEL GARDA

One of the most geologically significant discoveries is about Isola del Garda. The legends and the Friars who inhabited the island for centuries, told of monsters and snakes: now we know that they are vortices forming in parallel caves. Because there are not one, as it was believed until recently, but two caves: one already identified, which emerges in the garden of the villa at four metres above the water, and its twin, at a depth of 50 to 56 metres, on the edge of Gardone-Garda. This discovery adds to the charm of Isola del Garda, the largest area of land emerging from the waters of the lake, as described in Alberta Cavazza’s book, Isola del Garda un sogno in mezzo al lago (‘Isola del Garda a dream in the middle of the Lake’). For those who study or are curious about Garda’s geology, an inter- esting read would be the report written by Dr. Piero Fiaccavento, in particular the chapter entitled “Structural geological observa- tions of the outcrops of the Isola del Garda, as affected by the winds, waves and currents that have eroded and shaped the rock faces, especially in the East, with its underground cavities, both emerged and submerged.”

The thrill of exploring the underwater cave can be relived on the Deep Explorers’ youtube video “diving at Isola del Garda” using the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHqYR4aDp4Y DEEP EXPLORERS-ricerche-subacquee-profonde is on facebook. For further information, send an email to: [email protected]

20 ••• ••• 21 22 ••• ••• 23 Museum Sisàn

text: Claudia Farina / foto: Claudia Farina, Alberto Salvetti, Sisàn Museum Archive

There is a contest for birds, and also for bird callers. It takes www.sisan.it place in the morning, on 8th September each year, during the an- cient Sagra dei osei (‘Festival of Birds’) which has been held in Cisano di Bardolino since 1840. The festival reached the height of its fame on 20th September 1903, when the Domenica del Corriere newspaper published a cover designed live by the artist Beltrame, dedicated to the “Cisano Bird Fair”. The long day starts at 4.30am, when participants sign up for the best spring songbird competitions – the songs of the blackbird, song thrush, redwing, skylark, chaffinch, wood thrush, goldfinch and linnet. The contest takes place at 6.30am. 8.00am sees the opening of exhibitions and markets featuring hunting equipment, decoys, and association stands. At 10.30 the bird-calling contest takes place, followed by prize-giving for spring songbirds and bird calling at 11.30. In addition to birds, the festival also features food and drink, music, dancing and ex- hibitions, all of which can be enjoyed between Palafitte lakefront and Marzan park. There will be a photographic exhibition by Alberto Salvetti, who

22 ••• ••• 23 previously showcased his work on or- chids and butterflies; this year he will focus on ornithology. For those wishing to escape the crowds and parties, preferring to delve into the history of ornithology, the “Sisàn - Muse- um of ornithological, fishing and farming traditions in the Lake Garda area” is a peaceful refuge. Opened in 2009, it houses memories and CISANO relics of the centuries-old ornithological event which until the 1960s represented a major event for the Lake’s economy, being a place where equipment related to agriculture, particularly viticulture and fishing, could be supplied and traded. The supporting multi-media materials in Italian, German and English are varied and of great interest for those interested in a more in-depth thematic analysis. The ethno-anthropological museum welcomes visitors to the bookshop, which includes volumes devoted to the elves created Sisàn Museum by Carla Collesei and Mariano Caminoli. When entering, it is ad- 24/3 Via Federico Marzan visable to pick up a copy of the brochure, and a pair of head- Cisano di Bardolino (VR) phones in order to hear the birds’ singing. Room 1 is dedicated Tel. 045 23.77.935 to commemorating the ancient Sagra dei Osei, and has an edu- [email protected] cational area for schools and groups, as well as an introductory www.sisan.it video shown by the kind host, Rosa Boni. Room 2 exhibits materials and videos about fishing on Lake Gar- Opening times da, with eyewitness accounts of people and places, including Pal Open from Wednesday del Vo’. On one wall is the famous gigantic trout weighing over 20 to Sunday kilos and measuring 1 metre in length; on sale for 350 euros, it 9.30am 12.30pm was requisitioned and taxidermied in July 2003 and finally exhib- 3-6pm ited here, near to where it was discovered. The rooms on the first floor are dedicated to riparian and marsh Ticket prices birds as well as equipment, huts, nests and cages. The fauna € 6,00 Family Ticket of and bird-call recordings are well displayed here. (2 adults and up to These are followed by the birds of the forest and mountains, with 3 children) displays of ancestral hunting systems; birds who inhabit the hills € 3,50 full fare and open countryside, and those from aquatic environments, € 2,00 reduced fare along with their ancient methods of capture. Using the head- (age 7-16 and over 65) phones, visitors can listen to the songs of many species of birds, € 2,00 each for schools evocative of bygone days and landscapes - times when hunting in (no charge for teachers) these areas allowed the poor to survive and the rich to have fun. Free admittance: The building is owned by the municipality of Bardolino, and was - children up to the age given to the Associazione Sagra dei Osei of Cisano; the reno- of 6 vation project and decor were designed by the architect Marco - disabled and group Mamone; the technical-scientific side was taken care of by profes- leaders sors Roberto Basso, Pierandrea Brichetti, Mariano Caminoli and Giorgio Vedovelli.

24 ••• ••• 25 24 ••• ••• 25

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GARDASEE ITINERARIES OFGARDA ISSN 2499-7730 SIRMIONE CAVAION EVENTS Ph. Samuele28 Grisoni ••• © di Sirmione ••• 29 Sirmione

Ph. Sofia Eriksson © Comune di Sirmione

text: Claudia Farina

Regenerating wellness spas; the well-preserved Scaliger Castle; dedicated poems of Catullus; the Grottoes of Catullus, the re- mains of the imposing Roman villa where he never set foot - or perhaps he did, in the earlier one. An ode to love, beyond all con- ventions, an insatiable love which after a thousand kisses desires another hundred; so writes the poet Catullus in his poem to Les- bia. But when Lesbia - Clodia rejects him, the suffering and the sighs turn into anger, expressed in forceful, vulgar rhyme. Some things never change. The oil extracted from cultivars above the Grottoes bears Catul- lus’s name, and Maria Callas still ‘lives’ here through the memen- toes and the memories of those who admired her.

THE SCALIGER CASTLE

As in the middle ages, we cross the bridge to reach the city cen- tre, passing between the shimmering waves. A rare example of a lake fortification, it is reflected in the water, which seeps in as far as the dock. All castles have a legend, and indeed the castle of Sirmione has its own, based on the eternal triangle of love, jealousy and death. This legend tells of the beautiful Iris, her furi-

28 ••• ••• 29 ous husband and murderer Ebengardo, and the Black Knight Ela- berto. Regret, rather than remorse, still drives Ebengardo’s ghost to prowl the castle among flashes of lightning, in search of his innocent loved one. A stroll down the paved main street, among tempting shops, through the squares and alleyways, leads north to the Thermal Spa overlooking the lake, the small hill of Cortine, with its presti- gious hotels and the so-called Grottoes of Catullus.

THE GROTTOES OF CATULLUS

The reference to the name comes from the verses of the Latin poet Catullus, who died in 54 BC, who wrote of Sirmione: “Sirmio, bright eye of peninsulas and islands, whatever ones either Neptune bears in limpid lakes or in the vast sea. How willingly and happily I visit you, scarcely trusting myself that I have left Thynia and the Bithynian plains, and that I see you in safety. Oh, what is more blessed that to put cares away, when the mind lays down its burden, and tired with the labour of travel, we come to our own home and rest on the bed we longed for? This is the only thing that is worth such great toils. Hail, charming Sirmio, rejoice in your happy master, and you, oh Lydian waves of the lake, laugh whatever laughter there is in your home.”

It’s a shame that the archaeological area that is visible today was

Ph. Francesca30 Brevi ••• © Comune di Sirmione ••• 31 Ph. Esterina Filippetti © Comune di Sirmione

created several decades after the death of the poet, but below the remains of a villa were found, and it could be that this villa actually belonged to the poet, and that this pleasant place inspired him... “... Hail, oh charming Sirmio...”. The name Grottoes of Catullus dates back to the Renaissance period; grottoes indicate the partially collapsed environments, covered by vegetation, which you could enter just as you would enter natural caves. The first archaeological excavations took place in the 19th century, but it was only when the area became state property in 1948 that several rooms in the western part of the building were dis- covered. The villa, which dates back to the Augustan age - the last decades of the first century B.C., the beginning of the 1st century A.D. - follows the flow of the land, sloping down to the water, with the stately rooms enjoying the mild climate and the view from the top of the promontory. This was a grand and luxurious complex with long colonnades and terraces; the perspective con- verges in the northern forepart, on the extraordinary panoramic terrace. Mosaic remains embellish the floors of the residential areas, while the central area, occupied today by the large olive grove, was an open space, bounded on the south side by a herringbone brick floor that covers a large cistern, nearly 43 metres long. Thermal spas for health and relaxation occupied several rooms, although they were built about a cen- tury later. Then in the 3rd century the villa began to collapse and was abandoned, and was used as a necropolis by the second half of the 4th century and the early years of the 5th century. In later times the property was incorporated into the fortified perimeter of the peninsula of Sirmione.

THINGS TO TASTE

Centuries-old scenes for the eyes - for lovers of archaeology, history, poetry - have a pleasant epi- logue with tastes, inspired by the water and the land. Firstly there is the lake fish: salmon trout, whitefish, sardines and pike, all flavoured with Garda PDO fruity extra-virgin olive oil, and accompa- nied by a glass of Lugana, the popular white wine produced on the hills surrounding Lake Garda.

www.comune.sirmione.bs.it

30 ••• ••• 31 32 ••• ••• 33 32 ••• •••Archivio 33 BamsPhoto 34 ••• ••• 35 Cavaion Civic Archaeological Museum

text: Claudia Farina / foto: Comune Cavaion Archive, Claudia Farina

Welcoming, well-organised, usable, interactive. It may be small, but there are so many important things to see: this is the Museo Civico archeologico (Civic Archaeological Museum) in Cavaion, a Veronese town perched beneath Mount San Michele alla Bastia, in the hinterland of Lake Garda. At night, when it’s lit up, it looks like a nativity scene: timeless, like the panoramic view over the Lake from the Valsorda flag in Ceriel.

PLACE AND CHARACTERS

The Museum is housed in the basement of the Town Hall; a single building, a single location, from which to administer and enhance the area. A good sign, I CARE. There are two special guides for this visit: the Honorary Inspector of the Authority for Archaeology, Sir Mario Parolotti, who is inextricably linked to local events - the exhibits originate from his discoveries and reports from sites; the young specialist archaeologist, Chiara Reggio. Coming from different professional

34 ••• ••• 35 backgrounds, and from different generations, they are united by their passion for archaeology. The curator is Alessandra Aspes, a renowned researcher in the field of Prehistory. It all started with the discovery in 1980 of an Early and Middle Bronze Age settlement (at the turn of the second millennium BC) near the small intermorainic lake of Ca’ Nova. The findings form the first nucleus of the Museum which was set up ten years after, and which conserves, in equal value, the remains of a Roman necropolis and other settlements discovered in Cavaion and the CAVAION surrounding areas.

ATMOSPHERE AND DETAILS

The set-up of the museum has been updated, now that it has been open for 25 years. The entrance hall is devoted to the environment and to archaeological research, with the aim of facilitating understanding and teaching. One of the museum’s most interesting pieces is displayed here: the Roman Stone of Castagnar, a depiction of the journey of the deceased on a float with wide wheels, showing a young boy in a tunic. The first room unveils the life of the prehistoric settlement, which flourished for nearly two centuries, at the borders of the intermorenic lake of Cà Nova. Clay production demonstrates the importance of ceramics in everyday life, with a wide range of vases for visitors to admire. Seeing the ‘enigmatic tablets’ takes you far away: “a true language, which took shape at a European level”, explains the archaeologist, “perhaps a system of tesserae hospitales (hospitality tablets)”. Trade was certainly carried out here, as evidenced by the presence of amber from the Baltic Sea, bronze, copper alloy, and tin from the Alps and Central Europe. A cross-shaped piece of earthenware, on close examination, depicts a series of huts reflected in the water. The exhibits illustrate each village activity: eating and drinking, with cookware and storage items, “decorated with white stone from Monte Moscal, ground up and mixed with water to make a paste” as the Honorary Inspector explains. The wearing of jewellery - amber beads, bracelets and earrings. Farming the land and hunting: Mario Parolotti has reproduced a hypothetical sickle handle with elements made from flint. Spinning, weaving, cooking. There are beautiful glass artifacts, including a blown glass bottle, green-tinted opal with a frosted surface. Other exhibits come from S. Andrea d’Incaffi (Monte Moscal) and from Monte delle Bionde. The hall devoted to the necropolis of Bossema (3rd-4th century AD), showing two types of burial rites, is outstanding. Cremation: burned bones can be seen here, along with ceramic jars, unguentariums, and bronze coins. Interment: an intact skeleton is

36 ••• ••• 37 laid between the walls of the tombs, with burial recesses adorned with ollette (miniature jars) made from glass. Then there is the villa rustica which was located in Le Fontane, coins from La Prà, the probable Rhaetian home at Monte delle Bionde, the bracelet made from jet, also known as black amber, and many other items besides. On visiting the museum in Cavaion, it becomes clear that this is not a “minor” museum; it is a regional structure, compact in size, explanatory, and emblematic of ancient evidence of an area of great historical and archaeological interest, with its own identity and distinct from the lake, Monte Baldo and South Tyrol areas.

VISITS AND OPENING TIMES

Opened in 1990 thanks to the collaboration between the Veneto Regional Authority for Archaeology, the Museo Civico di Storia Naturale di Verona and the municipality of Cavaion, it is managed by the Associazione Archeologica Cavaionese. It is open every Sunday from 9am till 12; other tours can be arranged by email to: [email protected]. In summer, the opening hours are extended from Tuesday to Sunday. Tel.(++39) 045 7236127 www.comunecavaion.it

36 ••• ••• 37

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GARDASEE ITINERARIES OFGARDA ISSN 2499-7730 BARDOLINO EVENTS 40 ••• ••• 41 Gardone Riviera

Text: Claudia Farina / Photo archive of the Vittoriale-Grand Hotel Gardone - Cinquesensi Editore - Hyki Mayr

Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (‘The shrine of Italian victories’), is for Italians: because "I have what I have given.” This was Gabriele D'Annunzio’s famous musing, which he had inscribed on the por- tal of the Priory. Similarly, having the honour and responsibility of chairing the Foundation of the Vittoriale for a decade, Giordano Bruno Guerri is encouraging an ever-increasing number of visi- tors to explore the monumental complex - and in fact 250,000 visited in 2016. The Vittoriale holds a view over the world, both due to the various origins of its tourists, and to the international relations and events linked together by the Foundation through exhibitions and the “Genio Vagante” (‘Wandering Genius’) prize, attributed this year to a young Italian chemist who was part of the ‘brain drain’, and whose genius has found him a place of choice in Montreal.

AN IMMENSE DESIRE TO CELEBRATE

“An immense desire to celebrate drew men, free of the night and of their work”: from the Laudi del Vate, the title of a great, surpris- ing party which took place on 1st June, marked by inaugurations, previews and the nocturnal Tener-a-mente, which charmed guests

40 ••• ••• 41 with three extraordinary concerts until late at night, almost spill- ing over into the Festa della Repubblica (Republic Day) held on 2nd June, because “generosity and joy always flourish along with new and beautiful things, and I felt it was fair to offer these to every- one,” said Giordano Bruno Guerri, while presenting the events at the scenic Amphitheatre.

THE ‘MAGNIFICHE PRESENZE’ (‘MAGNIFICENT PRESENCES’) EXHIBITIONS

Two Foundations, two twin exhibitions in different places, dedi- cated to Pascoli and D'Annunzio - two poets so distant and yet so close. Magnifiche Presenze, at Villa Mirabella, features letters written by the two poets, documents, and above all the sought-af- ter photographs by Catherine Salvi Westbrooke, and the pictorial photograms of Sandra Rigali: a roundup of faces, relationships, friendships and correspondence that spans the private and intel- lectual lives of the two protagonists. The exhibit is accompanied by a twin exhibition at Casa Pascoli, with further works from the two artists. Both exhibitions will remain open until 31st January, 2018. Magnifiche Presenze showcases Gabriele D'Annunzio and Giovanni Pascoli, making them relevant today. These two major cultural figures marked out the future of art, literature, music and knowledge.

42 ••• ••• 43 NEW OUTDOOR LIGHTING

Unusual chiaroscuro effects, soft glows, and shards of light among the trees have enchanted guests on the stroll that leads from the Priory to the MAS and the cruiser Puglia, shining with new reflections in the outside lighting route, which brings out the beautiful architecture at night.

NOCTURNAL TENER-A-MENTE

There was an amazing finale under the stars as a preview of the TENER-A-MENTE festival, in tune with the nocturnal setting: with the cruiser Puglia illuminated in the background, there was a per- formance by the Banda Osiris; at the Fontana del Delfino, there was the Silent WiFi Concert by Andrea Vizzini (music played in silence, with special technologies and heard through headphones, with guests lying on the grass). The Amphitheatre stage featured a concert by Cosmology of Bach (Cesare Picco featuring Painè Cuadrelli).

THE NEW APP FOR THE VITTORIALE

The new app "Il Vittoriale" is a collaboration between the Fondazione Il Vittoriale and the Fondazione Ugo Bordoni, and was created in order to make it possible to visit the monument park and Priory using your phone as a sort of audio-video pocket guide. Available for iOS and Android, the application allows visitors to dynamically navigate the content (text, audio, images, and multimedia) interactively, so that you can take a tour of the park, also in multiple languages.

www.vittoriale.it

42 ••• ••• 43 www.grandhotelgardone.it GRAND HOTEL GARDONE

"Like a fragment of a great regal river". This is how Gabriele D'Annunzio viewed Garda; it was a common sentiment shared among intellectuals, the nobility, the rich middle class, archi- tects, naturalists and Nobel laureates of the late 1800s and early 1900s who came from the Danubian and German lands. Once they discovered the mild and healthy climate of Gardone, they built elegant residences here, as well as lush and exotic parks, high-class hotels, and renowned clinics. The Gran hotel Gardone bears witness to 130 years of noble hospitality. The hotel, which is run by the Mizzaro family, cultivates a fascination in the style of a Grand Tour, combined with modern-day hotel comforts, throughout its 167 rooms. Notable guests include, among others, Gabriele D'Annunzio (who had a dedicated suite at the hotel); Winston Churchill (in addition to his suite, there is Winnie's Bar where Pol Roger is still served - Churchill’s fa- vourite champagne); the writer Vladimir Nabokov; and Valentina Tereskova, the first female astronaut in the world to be sent into space. The hotel’s à la carte restaurant Giardino dei Limoni (also open to the public) serves high quality food and wine, made us- ing the best local produce. This area has been awarded the blue flag for the cleanliness of the water, respect for the environment, and efficiency of ser- vices; the Touring Club’s Orange flag, the Green flag of the Italian Farmers’ Confederation and the 4 Sails of the Legambiente. As the renowned scholar- poet would say: hic manebimus optime (‘here we’ll stay excellently’).

44 ••• ••• 45 VALE UN VIAGGIO

Vale un viaggio (‘It’s worth a trip’) is an amazing book, packed with information and photos about 101 wonders of Italy for visi- tors to discover. The book was first presented at the Vittoriale, eliciting great interest from the public, proving that the work remains a magnetic force of attraction for those who are well- educated and culturally aware. Written by the journalist and art critic Beba Marsano, and published by Cinquesensi, it describes places and works that go beyond the usual paths, but which are so fascinating that they are worth a trip, as a kind of gathering of emotions. Further confirmation of this was the visit, following the presentation, to the Museo del Divino Infante (Museum of the Di- vine Infant) in Gardone, led by collector Hiky Mayr. As described in the book, here you can admire over 300 sculptures from the last three centuries, at the leading exhibition of figurative works dedicated to the Divine Infant.

www.cinquesensi.it

44 ••• ••• 45 46 ••• ••• 47 46 ••• ••• 47

50 ••• ••• 51 Bardolino

Text by Claudia Farina / Photos: Bamsphoto Communal Archive, Bardolino - Guerrieri Rizzardi

Shaped by the lake and the hills, Bardolino is vital, dynamic, and exuberant for eleven months of the year. It is a gift of nature intertwined with history and architecture, a wine-producing town of Lake Garda, enclosed in a gulf between two panoramic points, with a historic centre jutting out over the water and morainic hills covered with vineyards and olive trees. The lakeside walks provide a viewpoint over the lake and the hills: Cisano-Lazise cycle and pedestrian track and the historic Bardolino-Garda route are unique courses between small bays, reed beds, sandy beaches, pretty little harbours and small rocks from which, on certain nights, you can watch the glimmering waves under the moon and the stars. Whether you’re using an easel for painting, or a camera or Smartphone to take pictures, you’ll be surrounded by subjects to portray. Not surprisingly, more than two million tourists visited Bardolino in 2016, and the 2017 season began in March with the spectacular flowering of tulips, cultivated by Count Giuseppe Sigurtà, owner of the Parco Giardino Sigurtà, the second most beautiful park in Europe. He's the “architect” of the 72 beds

50 ••• ••• 51 www.bardolino.comune.vr.it

covered with flowers from Holland, located on the promenade that joins Riva Mirabello to Riva Cornicello: a riot of colour that floods into the square of Cisano, with its relative riot of selfies. There are rare species in full bloom, such as the black tulip, or yellow tulip flecked with red; and Vinitaly has flooded Bardolino with events outside of the fair, from 7th to 11th April - a "Vinitaly and the city" model that will be emulated by other municipalities next year. The schedule is packed full of events, with shows, concerts, wine tastings, exhibitions, cultural events, sporting and traditional events; and it’s already attracting a large audience. The four-day Easter period is intense in this ‘Mediterranean’ lake at the foot of the Alps: Tasting Sicily has brought dozens of companies to Bardolino, to showcase their Sicilian wine, food and traditional handicraft products, alongside local products in the square at the port, set up by the Museum of Wine and the Museum of Oil. There are also cultural events of national importance. Parole Sull’Acqua (lit. ‘Words On the Water’) - the eighth edition of which took place from 26th to 28th May – is a writers’ festival, that this year hosted, among others, Paolo Mieli, Maurizio Belpietro, Luca Mercalli, Veronica Pivetti, Luca Bianchini, Graglia and Terzani. The Festival della Geografia (Festival of Geography) returns, from 12th to 15th October, this year with the title: “Le porte e le mura. Il dialogo e la difesa delle città" (lit. ‘Doors and walls. Dialogue and defence of the city’), while the Lodovico Morando prize for Arte e cultura del Garda (‘Art and culture of Garda’), scheduled for 17th July, is now in its 18th Edition. Bardolino is synonymous with wine; the season begins with the Palio del Chiaretto in early June, when rosé wine takes over the lakeside and the old town. The Festa dell’Uva (Grape Festival) is in its 88th year, and will be held from 28th September to 2nd October in honour of the land’s red wines, with a youthful energy which, last year, helped to sell more than 65 thousand glasses. Beyond wine There is so much more in addition to wine. There will be highlights from the Triathlon on 10th June, the Garda Classic Car Show takes place on 2nd July, and the famous "10 di Bardolino" running race is scheduled for 8th October. Music of every genre will enliven bars, squares and parks, beginning with the one hundred evenings organised by the prestigious Filarmonica Bardolino, the Italian Opera Concert and the Fondazione Bardolino Top, the organiser of the events. The night-life here is lively: Bardolino continues to be the capital of the Lake for youngsters, while the legendary Hollywood dance club has entertained entire generations for more than thirty years. In addition to the recurring events mentioned above, there are hundreds more: the total number from March 2017 to February 2018 is 232! To avoid missing your favourite events, it is advisable

52 ••• ••• 53 to obtain a copy of the 2017 Guide, which is divided into three bi- monthly editions. It is distributed at the Tourist Information Office (IAT), and is available in all hotels and accommodations in Bardolino.

THE VILLAGE WITHIN THE HAPPY VILLAGE

In the "Happiest Village" of Italy (as Bardolino was classified Bardolino by Il Sole 24 ore newspaper in 2012), there is another Village, made up of buildings from different eras connected to the San Martino district, where the Rambaldi loggia and colonnade are attributed to the 16th-century School of Paolo Romano. The Guerrieri Rizzardi family’s wine-growing and producing vocation (the Consortium was founded in 1967 by Antonio Rizzardi himself) is confirmed by the uninterrupted ownership of vineyards and wineries from 1786, until the recent logistical developments. When the historic wine cellar was re-located outside the town, "Borgo Bardolino" was constructed in its place, using the existing spaces and architecture conservatively. The complex, located near the medieval walls, is open from 7am to 11pm, and is accessible by the public, even just for those wanting to take a stroll among the ancient trees and gurgling fountains and old houses. Here you will find a renovated hospitality complex, with a restaurant, wine shop and wine bar named Munus (gift), after www.guerrieri-rizzardi.it the most prestigious red label produced by Guerrieri Rizzardi in Bardolino www.borgobardolino.it

52 ••• ••• 53

T 0365.42853 -www.myhomesandrini.it SANDRINI GREEN ARCHITECTURE GREEN SANDRINI Salò Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 35 Emanuele Vittorio Piazza Salò INTERIOR DECORATIONSINTERIOR LUXURIOUS PERFUMES HOME FRAGRANCES HOME CONSULTING BANQUETING CASHMERE HOTELERIE FLOWERS FLOWERS JEWELS

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GARDASEE ITINERARIES OFGARDA ISSN 2499-7730 PESCHIERA EVENTS SALÒ 56 ••• ••• 57 Salò from earth to heaven

Text: Claudia Farina / Photo BamsPhoto, MuSa Archive, Ateneo Archive

Salò has played a central role throughout various different eras, with characters that have had a profound effect on history, sci- ence, art and music, experiencing times of splendour and of trag- edy. Nowadays, the city focuses on tourism, as well as cultural, industrial and commercial activities. The city can be visited from two perspectives: on foot, strolling through the old town and along the lakeside promenade; or from the sky, for a curious look at unique and surprising sights. Salò's notoriety dates back mainly to the achievements of the Venetian era and the 600 dark days of the Italian Social Republic, all documented at the MuSa, the Museum of Salò, which opened in June 2015.

56 ••• ••• 57 www.comune.salo.bs.it

MUSA

This is the era of Salò's supremacy on the Community of Riviera, or “Magnificent Motherland” during the time of the Serenissima (the Republic of Venice), 1426-1797. The demographic data is particularly significant: halfway through the 1400s, there were 3 thousand inhabitants - the same as in Turin and Treviso. A shrewd cultural and artistic policy contributed to the city becoming a capi- tal, as evidenced by the treasures acquired by the Municipality for the Church, rebuilt from 1453. Among the artifacts worth seeing at the MuSa are illuminated manuscripts, such as an Atlantic Bible of the Roman school dating back to the early decades of the 12th century, four Veronese chorals from the late fourteenth cen- tury and the five leather bindings with brass fittings from 1524, as well as paintings commissioned for the palaces of the Municipal- ity and the Commissioner of Venice. The perspectival display of violins reveals that we are now in the room dedicated to Gasparo da Salò (1540-1609), a famous violin- maker - a master of his craft acknowledged by his successors and by collectors such as D'Annunzio, who devised the famous Coppa del Liutaio (Luthier Cup) created by Renato Brozzi (1924), which is exhibited here. Various items bear witness to this period, including the Garib-

58 ••• ••• 59 58 ••• ••• 59 www.museodisalo.it

aldi heirlooms donated by the Museo Storico del Nastro Azzurro (which can be visited on the floor below), as well as the Mutual Aid Society of Salò. The artistic vitality of the city is depicted through drawings and portraits of Salò society between the late 1800s and 1920s, when it began to experience a boost in its tourism appeal. Art is represented by “The signs of the 20th-century” and the graphic display of the “Civic Design Collection”, founded in Salò in 1983 to document Italian art by the great masters of the early twentieth century. Science on the other hand is represented in the rooms dedicated to the meteo-seismic observatory estab- lished in 1887 and still active today. www.museodisalo.it

ATHENAEUM OF SALÒ

The Athenaeum is the oldest cultural institution in the whole of the Garda area, one of the oldest in Lombardy, Veneto and Trentino, a direct successor of the Accademia degli “Unanimi” established in Salò on 20th May 1564. The large library consist- ing of twenty-five thousand volumes, largely concerning topics re- lating to Garda, includes early editions and incunabula printed in Toscolano between 1470 and the end of the century; a 12th century illuminated Bible; the Cathedral treasure, consisting of four antiphonaries Gregorian chants from the 13th-14th century. HYPERLINK "http://www.ateneodisalo.it" www.ateneodisalo.it

SALÒ FROM THE SKY

Another book on Salò? Yes, but this is a special one. Salò a volo d’uccello (‘A bird’s eye view of Salò’) unveils a perspective of the city through aerial photography by Bamsphoto Rodella, with en- gaging texts by Marcello Zane. The city’s profiles and depths, as well as suggestions of the historical, naturalistic, and landscape aspects are documented by the images captured from the unusu- al perspective of the skies. Everything is portrayed, from national monuments such as the Cathedral, the Lazzaretto, the Palazzo Terzi-Martinengo, to the streets, squares, the port, the gulf, and the hills. There is nothing lacking in the sections where the long life of Salò can be pigeonholed; if anything, there is the added revelation of views, perspectives and viewpoints that the volume exhibits, surprising the reader. It is not just a beautiful book: the aerial photography makes Salò a volo d’uccello truly unique. www. bamsphoto.it www.ateneodisalo.com

60 ••• ••• 61 60 ••• ••• 61 62 ••• ••• 63 Peschiera del Garda The Venetian walls, a Unesco World Heritage Site

Text by Claudia Farina / Photos: Elisabetta Arici, Rinaldi Archive

Five hundred years ago, Venice defended its land and sea borders by means of impressive fortifications. Since July 2016 Unesco has protected these ramparts by including them in its World Heritage Sites, while the municipality of Peschiera del Garda, through an in-depth study and monument restoration initiative, plan to preserve them...for the next 500 years! The 53rd Italian Unesco site consists of the “Venetian Works of Defence between the 16th and 17th Centuries. Stato da Terra – Western Stato da Mar”, which includes, besides Peschiera, Bergamo and Palmanova in Italy, Zadar and Šibenik in Croatia, and Kotor in Montenegro. It is a defensive system in the so-called alla moderna style, built by the Republic of Venice along the Stato da Terra and Stato da Mar to control and defend their lands and trade routes that linked them to the Eastern Mediterranean, a defensive system that extended from Bergamo to Cyprus.

62 ••• ••• 63 www.comunepeschieradelgarda.com

The defense structures—including fortified systems, city- fortresses, isolated forts—were built between the 15th and 17th centuries in all territories owned by Venice that overlooked the Adriatic Sea, known at the time as the “Gulf of Venice”. Venice came into possession of Peschiera in the 15th century, and renewed its fortifications, realising that it was an essential bastion against imperial attacks, a customs location of prime importance for goods from Northern Europe and crucial place for ensuring the integrity of the Mainland dominion. Construction of the new fortress began in 1549: the city walls were armed with ramparts and bastions designed by Guidobaldo della Rovere, and constructed by Michele Sanmicheli. Porta Verona and Porta were opened, while Rocca Scaligera was modified to adapt it to the uses of artillerymen. In the nineteen century the Austrians, who had settled here since 1797, further strengthened Peschiera’s military profile by building forts and barracks. The current historic building was Napoleon's headquarters, and in 1917 Vittorio Emmanuele III took part in the Allied Conference which decided the resistance on the Piave river after Caporetto.

64 ••• ••• 65 PESCHIERA TODAY

“The first bastion to be secured for the next 500 years,” Deputy Mayor Filippo Gavazzoni explained proudly, “is that of San Marco, with its scenic ramparts, which provide views as far-reaching as Manerba and St. Vigilio, and are also accessible by disabled visitors. By means of funding from the European Community, restoration of the monument will be undertaken on the other four bastions, thereby promoting the idea of Peschiera as an open- air museum, which can be visited with the aid of an audio guide which comes with a map”. The audio guide is a valuable tool for walking tours or boat trips to points of cultural interest, and can be accessed via two methods: rental of the unit from the Tourism Peschiera Infopoint in Piazzale Betteloni, to follow the numbered route on the map; or by scanning the QR code on point 1 of the map, which allows visitors to download the app to a smartphone.

LAKE AND RIVER The area certainly has an extraordinary military heritage, but much more besides. Peschiera is set on a lake and a river: this is the location of the source of the river Mincio which flows towards Mantua among reeds and rows of poplars: an irresistible attraction for canoeists, anglers, horse-riders and cyclists, on the Peschiera to Mantova cycle path. Aside from weapons, the remaining blazing spectacle is the Voltoni firework display in August, a vantage point from which to admire the fortified Citadel. When the uproar of historical events has subsided, there remains the exaltation of the genius loci of the tourist experience with festivals, exhibitions, musical evenings and inviting walks along the lakefront, from San Benedetto di Lugana to the nautical port of Pioppi.

64 ••• ••• 65

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GARDASEE ITINERARIES OFGARDA TORRI DELBENACO ISSN 2499-7730 TREMOSINE EVENTS 68 ••• ••• 69 Torri del Benaco The castle and other wonders

by Claudia Farina / Photo BamsPhoto, Donatella Bertelli, Agostino Danese, Mirco Lorenzini

There’s nothing new under the clear sky of Torri. The Scaliger Castle anchored on solid rocky cliffs overlooking the harbour; Ve- netian signs such as the seat of the Captain of Lake Garda who was hosted at the Palace of the Gardesana, erected in 1452, now a hotel restaurant with a beautiful terrace overlooking the square, which welcomes distinguished guests; music, shows and exhibi- tions that enliven the tourist season. Nothing new, because the "Torri del Benaco" format has been irresistible for many decades, both for holidaymakers who keep coming back, and for tourists who love Garda, following in the footsteps of famous guests and glamorous events. The food holds its own: lake fish, extra virgin olive oil and wines from the surrounding hills; all that nature of- fers, made with a dash of creativity.

68 ••• ••• 69 THE SCALIGER CASTLE

The castle is a thousand-year old attraction. Built at the beginning of the 10th century to defend the inhabitants from raids by the Hungarians, it recalls the presence of Berengar I, King of Italy, who had the Manor restored and built the walls, the remains of which are still visible between the Garda road and the historic centre. The castle was rebuilt by Antonio della Scala, the last della Scala family Lord, but it fell into disrepair during the era of the Serenis- sima (Venice, 1405-1797). Cleaned up and restored since 1980, it was revived with the opening of the Museum in 1983. The halls display themes of the material culture of Torri and of Alto Garda: a section is dedicated to olive growing; another, broader area, is reserved for fishing; an entire floor is devoted to the rock engrav- ings of Lake Garda; a final space hosts a valuable model describ- ing the historic centre of Torri, as it was until the early twentieth century, while two large eighteenth-century maps illustrate its ter- ritory. Finally, a small botanical garden hosts the principal plants from the coast and inland areas of Garda. The citrus greenhouse is a great attraction; it dates back to 1760, and is the only one on the whole lake that is open to the public.

70 ••• ••• 71 70 ••• ••• 71 FROM THE WAVES, TO THE TERRACES AND BACK

When looking back - from the top of the castle, the slopes and terraces - onto the lake, you discover splendid scenery, unusual geometries, fascinating views. The slopes of Baldo on the lake side give way to large slices of horizon, dominated by olive trees, dark green cypresses, and holm oaks, up to the mountain pastures and chestnut trees. The slopes are accessible from Torri up to Albisano, a splendid lake- side terrace, from where you can proceed to S. Zeno di Montagna at about 700 metres above sea level. As it is above, so it is below: the horizon stops at Pai, a well-known ancient village, mainly because of the "Osteria da Ago e Rita", a mixed and very fun environment: here you will find specialty food such as tigelle pasta and fried gnocchi, but also vegetarian and vegan dishes; thrilling music with entertainment by Augustino, and Rita’s choice of decor influenced by the Far East.

MUCH REMAINS TO BE SEEN

There is a lot to see in the town of Torri; here are some other suggestions. The Romanesque church of St. Giovanni, now an auditorium, with 14th-century frescoes of great interest; those from the 15th-cen- tury can be found in the small church of S.S. Trinità, overlooking the port. The towers that completed the medieval walls: Torre dell'Orologio (Clock tower), where families gathered in the Venetian period to discuss the town’s affairs, and Torre Berengario. The parish church with an organ dating back to 1742/1745. The Church of San Siro in Crero, a true jewel on a precipice over- looking the lake, with its own festival; soon there will be Tibetan bridge that will connect the valley behind with Crero. The Romanesque church of San Gregorio at the cemetery of Pai. Festival on 26th May for St. Philip, the patron of Torri, with floating candles and the burning boat.

INFORMATION Municipality of Torri del Benaco, Viale Fratelli Lavanda 3, www.comune.torridelbenaco.vr.it Castello scaligero, Viale Fratelli Lavanda 2, tel 045 6296111 www.museodelcastelloditorridelbenaco.it Hotel Ristorante Gardesana, Piazza Domizio Calderini 5, tel 045 7225411, www.gardesana.eu Osteria da Ago & Rita, Località Frader 1, tel 045.6290054 www.torri-del-benaco.net/osteria-da-ago-e-rita-torri-del-benaco.htm

72 ••• ••• 73 72 ••• ••• 73 ••• 75 TREMOSINE From crystalline waters to mountain slopes

Text Claudia Farina / Photos Domenico Marchetti

Gustav Klimt lives here, in the memory of the beholder. This is documented by the plaque affixed in 2003 to the outside wall of the former Hotel Morandi, where the artist stayed between July and August of 1913, when the Lake began to attract cultured travellers in search of Mediterranean scents on the slipstream of Goethe's diary. That tale of the lake remains unchanged: behind Tremosine - the 100 metres from the lake and the 2000 to the mountaintop - is the Parco Alto Garda in Brescia, which sinks into the water with breathtaking terraces, while the waves are rippled by the Pelèr wind, which blows from north to south in the morning, and the Ora wind from the south in the afternoon. An amalgamation of breezes, mountains and lake crown Tremosine: among the most beautiful villages in Italy, and certainly one of the most original in the Garda area.

••• 75 ENVELOPING VIEWS

Arriving at Tremosine is like entering a cave: you pass through the ravine of Brasa, where the rock has been excavated for centuries by natural agents; another route is the Tignalga that ascends from , and another that descends from Limone. Panoramic views then come into sight, divided into eighteen of the municipality’s smaller hamlets. Campione just touches the water; the others - Ariàs, Bassanega, Cadignano, Castone, Mezzema, Musio, Pregasio, Priezzo, Secastello, Sermerio, Sompriezzo, Ustecchio, Vesio, Villa, Voiandes, Voltino and Pieve, which is the capital - are scattered on the plateau. The municipality, covering a land area of approximately 72 km2, is one of the largest in the but has only just over 2000 residents in the small towns lying between valleys, hillocks, plateaus where the Mediterranean flora of olive and oleander gives way, as you ascend, to mountain vegetation. The mule tracks along the slopes of the mountains are enchanting, in the setting of the Great War; there are exciting routes for trekking, hiking, mountain biking. Tennis is also very popular here, with more than 60 courts in the area, and, in Campione, visitors can enjoy a range of water sports such as windsurfing, kite-surfing and sailing. The famous "Formagella di Tremosine" cheese (with one "g" to distinguish it from other types), produced by the Caseificio sociale (cooperative dairy), comes direct from the mountain pastures to the table.

7676 •••••• •••••• 7777 MUSEUM OF TREMOSINE

A place not to be missed, the MUST - Museo di Tremosine - is dedicated to the story of the Great War in the Alto Garda area and, more generally, to the history and the territories of Tremosine. Each of the four letters of the acronym expresses a symbol: M recalls the mountains that surround the communal setting; U represents the lake; S alludes to the winding turns of the gorge roads, a wonder worthy of Unesco recognition; and the T represents the vertical line of the cableways that connect the plateau to the lake.

KLIMT A TREMOSINE

"Gustav Klimt lived and painted in this house" reads the commemorative plaque, which was com- missioned through a love of art and the history of Tremosine, by Marcello Cobelli, who at the time was President of the municipal library, while today he is president of the library of Salò. "I had heard about this illustrious presence, but all traces and documents had been lost. After careful research I managed to reconstruct trusted testimonials including, in an inductive way, actual pain- tings by the artist." These are the valuable oil paintings Malcesine sul lago di Garda, destroyed in a fire in 1945 (thankfully, a photograph of the painting remains) and the Chiesa di Cassone, pre- served in Rome. “Since Malcesine is opposite Tremosine,” Cobelli concludes, “it is likely that the artist painted the canvasses on an easel from the port of Tremosine, looking over to the opposite shore." Klimt was a great exponent of the Vienna Secession movement; he painted portraits, drawings, and representations with a high degree of sensuality. He also painted landscapes, when travel and inspiration lit his artistic fire, as happened in the summer of 1913 in Tremosine.

INFORMATION Municipality of Tremosine, Via Papa Giovanni XXIII, tel. 0365 915811 www.tremosine.it Proloco, Piazza Marconi 1, tel. 0365 953185, www.infotremosine.it MUST Museo di Tremosine a Villa Paradiso, Viale Europa 11, tel. + 39 0365-918061 Aperto tutti i giorni in orario 10.00 - 13.00 / 15.00 - 18.00

76 ••• •••••• 7777

GARD MORE LAGO DI GARDA • LAKE GARDA • GARDASEE

SALÒ

LAZISE

EVENTS

ITINERARIES OF GARDA

ISSN 2499-7730 ANNO 4 • N. 7 | PRIMAVERA 2019 | € 3,50 CIERRE GRAFICA 80 ••• ••• 81 80 ••• ••• 81 82 ••• ••• 83 Salo'tto The future of culture in Salò

text Claudia Farina / Photo Archivio Ateneo di Salò, BamsPhoto, Oliviero Bui, Angela Orizio

An ode to culture of the future, standing firmly on the basics. Inaugurated on 15th December 2018 with a great mix of charac- ters, the new "Salo'tto della cultura" [Culture Salon], dedicated to Sebastiano Paride da Lodrone, founder of the seminary of Santa Giustina (now seat of the MuSa), sails along nicely among the lau- rels of the past and the horizons of the future. Created in the for- mer courthouse, the centre houses the library, the Athenaeum, the historical municipal archives (with public records from the middle ages to 1800) and that of the Magnificent Motherland (with 1492 documents from the times of the Serenissima), the research cen- tre, documentation on the historic period of the Italian Social Re- public, the Blue Ribbon Institute for military valour, and a space for children. The newspaper library is also accessible to people who are vision-impaired, thanks to tablets used for consulting the mate- rial; there is also a comfortable lounge area, while the opposite

82 ••• ••• 83 square, in addition to being a meeting place, will host shows, open air cinema showings and various other events. The Municipality of Salò has turned the ‘Palace of Justice’ (the courthouse) into a ‘Palace of Culture’, with a total expenditure of €830,000. It is important, wonderful and reassuring that investments are being made into culture on the shores of Garda, rather than just into ac- commodation facilities. It's a “Salo’tto” [salon], bringing together institutions, in modern spaces dedicated to children, families and SALÒ over 65s, hosting classes, workshops, lectures, exhibitions, youth information services, various types of events and concerts, includ- ing those promoted by the “Amici della musica” [Friends of music] Association, chaired by Lamberto Dondio. (www.comune.salo.bs.it)

THE LIBRARY IN A ROSSINI CRESCENDO

On the ground floor is the Library with its “Rossini crescendo”, which President Marcello Cobelli—outgoing town councillor—ex- plains as someone accustomed to dealing with numbers: “1,200 active users (there were 562 four years ago), with an increase in book loans 8,500 per year to the current figure of 20,000. The library’s appeal is enhanced by its spaces, by the succession of events, the opening hours totalling 50 hours a week, and by the many engaging initiatives such as night-time at the library, which was enthusiastically enjoyed on 16th February by children aged between 8 and 10 years old.” The event will undoubtedly be re- peated, due to popular demand.

MIRABILIA IN THE ATHENAEUM

The first floor of the building houses the Athenaeum, the oldest cultural institution in the whole of the Garda area, and one of the oldest in Lombardy, Veneto and Trentino. It is a direct successor of the Accademia degli “Unanimi” established in Salò on 20th May 1564. Within the enormous book heritage, consisting of 27,000 volumes, are some very rare incunabula: over 1,200 ‘cinquecen- tine’ (dating from the 16th century), and a rich archive that includes documents from the 14th century onwards. The institution’s new path is illustrated by its chairperson, Elena Ledda: “The Athenaeum has become a cultural centre open to young people, schools and to the local area; its strong historical roots are nourishment for knowl- edge, research, the pleasure of discovery and reading, in a virtuous interplay between territorial scholars and academics”. And in fact, the first volume of the trilogy “Storia di Salò e dintorni” (‘History of Salò and surroundings’), edited by Prof. Giampiero Brogiolo, is about to be published. (www.ateneodisalo.com)

84 ••• ••• 85 84 ••• ••• 85 THE NASTRO AZZURRO (‘BLUE RIBBAND’) MUSEUM

The Nastro Azzurro Institute takes its name from the ribbon used in decorations for military bravery. The collections, from 1923 to the present day, include a historical journey that spans from the Napoleonic campaigns to the Risorgimento, with Garibaldi's en- deavours, in which many volunteers of Salò participated; to World War I, from whose wounds the Institute and the Museum were born, up the second World War, with specific testimonials about Salò itself.

THE MAGNIFICENT MOTHERLAND AND ITS ARCHIVE

The primary role of Salò in the Riviera community, or ‘Magnificent Motherland’, during the Serenissima (1426-1797), was fed by a shrewd cultural and artistic policy, the legacy of which, in addi- tion to buildings and works of art, can be seen in the archives, which are among the most important in the province of Brescia, and can be viewed by a group of volunteers led by prof. Giuseppe Piotti. (tel: 0365 296880 on Thursday mornings). Here are the twenty series into which the archival history has been divided: Statutes and privileges, Provisions and systems - Orders, Folios, Ducal rule of Venice - Riviera Community, Processes, Divine wor- ship, Pious causes, Mounts of Piety, Utilities and levels, Instru- ments and testaments, Inheritance, Farms, Data Damage, Health, Valuations, Tributes and tariffs, Loose papers, Extraneous papers, Directories.

86 ••• ••• 87 86 ••• ••• 87 ••• 89 Lazise The modern and the ancient

Text Claudia Farina / Photos Claudia Farina, Francesco Galeone

The castle overlooking the lake takes on its brilliance, and the light transforms the stones into bodiless essences: the history, festivals, tragedies, splendour and downfalls of Lazise are personified by the castle, the Venetian customs house, the churches. But before that, the documents and paleontology preserved thousands of years of existence and a few records. The first sight you see in Lazise is the stronghold, enclosed in six towers. Advancing through the streets graced by flower pots, you come to the large, bright square; you can enjoy walks along the lakeside promenade, and visit the colourful port.

••• 89 ANCIENT HUMANITY

The pile-dwelling heritage discovered at La Quercia and at the Bor di Pacego is noteworthy, with materials attributable to the Middle Bronze age (16th, 13th century BC). In the 11th century, the ancient Lazisium, which has served as a port since Roman times, belonged to the family, who built a castle there. It was an important medieval market, and is considered to be the first municipality in Italy, dating back to 993. The Scaligeri turned it into a defensive bastion: the castle includes the original village with six towers, as well as the ancient Porta Lion (Lion Gate) and LAZISE Porta Nuova (New Gate). The keep is nicknamed the Torrazzo delle ore (Bell Tower of time), and the clock stopped when it was hit by a bomb. Nestled in the beautiful park which surrounds villa Bernini—with access to the Lake from a boat dock covered with Mediterranean vegetation—stands the Scaliger castle, which can be visited on request. The military importance of Lazise was recognised by Venice, which built an arsenal and customs house here; a sixteenth-century building which houses exhibitions, shows, and events such as the Festival of Chiaretto wine. The square in the harbour, decorated with medieval and Venetian features, is overlooked by houses, arcades and shops which line the narrow streets inside the old walls. The Church of St. Nicolò, built on the harbour in the 12th century and beautifully decorated inside and outside, is a fine example of Ventian-Lombardy architectural styles of the municipal period. To the north is villa Pergolana, set within the park near the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, which belonged to an old convent.

9090 •••••• •••••• 9191 THE WINE DISCOVERY MUSEUM IN MASI

Located at the Canova estate in Lazise, with a panoramic view of Garda, is the winner of the international competition dedicated to the excellences of worldwide wine tourism, "Best of Wine Tourism 2019". The award is conferred by the network of Great Wine Capitals, created from among ten capital cities of wine excellence throughout the world, including Verona. The original element of the Masi Wine Discovery Museum focuses on an experiential journey discovering wine, the company itself and its territory. Visitors are welcomed in a room dedicated to viticulture: climate, soil and grape variety, with man’s work at the centre. This is followed by winemaking techniques, where the focus is on appassimento (drying) and its spectacular heart is a gigantic vat which offers a unique sensory and engaging experience: experiencing seven days of fermentation in just three minutes, through images, smells and sounds captured live. The tour ends in the "living room" where the walls tell the history and present the story of Masi and the Boscaini family, which has run it and taken care of it since 1772 (www.masi.it)

QUELLENHOF LUXURY RESORT

Opened just a few days ago in Lazise, this is the first 5-star hotel on the Veronese shore of Lake Garda. It is called the Quellenhof Luxury Resort, and is owned by the Dorfer family, who are also the owners of the prestigious Quellenhof hotel in South Tyrol. In addition to referring to the name itself, the "Q" logo indicates the highest Quality that guests can be sure of, both in the resort in Val Passiria and in the hotel on Lake Garda. As the owner, Heinrich Dorfer, explains: “It was a dream of mine to launch a hotel in Lazise, a place where we have spent our holidays for many years. I had the chance to buy land overlooking Lake Garda, and I seized the opportunity.” The project, devised by architects Marx & Ladurner, has redeveloped an area of approximately 12,000 square metres which was previously occupied by disused greenhouses, and has created a structure that blends in well with the surrounding landscape. Solid stone elements are offset by large windows that draw the eye upwards, where the sky pool and the panoramic restaurant dominate the olive grove, on a background of one of the most beautiful Italian lakes. Stefan Margesin is the young manager of the new hotel, which will employ around 70 members of staff, 80% of which reside the province of Verona. www. quellenhof-lazise.it

90 ••• •••••• 9191 TRAVELS Malcesine Monte Baldo Cable Car From the Lake to the sky TRAVELS | REISEN | TRAVELS VIAGGI

by Claudia Farina / Photos from the Cable Car Malcesine Monte Baldo Archive

Stretches of water, clouds and mountain ridges accompany you on your trip by cable car between Malcesine and Monte Baldo. It is striking to see the continuity of the lake and the mountain, in the medieval-Venetian town of Malcesine, which can be reached in just a few minutes via the rotating cable car. While Garda be- comes ever more distant, relax in a vast Mediterranean-inspired basin, while the air turbine is crossed by the mechanical move- ment toward the sky, above the clouds, where breathing becomes lighter. This sequence of atmospheres, from the Scaliger cas- tle overlooking the lake, to the mountain pastures that can be reached quickly for an all-round panorama, is the emotion that comes before arriving at Mount Baldo, considered to be the alter ego of the Garda landscape. The cable car system is divided into two sections: the first, Malce- sine-St. Michele, which is 1512m long with 463m of altitude gain; the second, St. Michele-Tratto Spino, 2813m long and 1187m of

92 ••• ••• 93 altitude gain. It is unique due to the cabin in the second section which rotates on itself, providing passengers with a 360° view and the feeling of flying; the cable car is in operation even un- der adverse conditions and at night. In the last four years there have been extensive renovations of the ticket office, dining area, entrance and boulevard, interiors of the station and its climate control, the information point, and the “Falco” chalet.

ENCHANTING VIEWS TRAVELS | REISEN | TRAVELS VIAGGI

The panoramic cable car starts from a clearing in the olive trees and takes visitors from the earth to the skies, with an altitude difference of 1650 metres, in a blitz from the sunny beaches to the calm con- templation of the mountain peaks. The landscape below is beautiful in every season: from the sub-Mediterranean vegetation with vines, olive trees, cypresses, oleanders and holm oak in the lake area to downy oak, hornbeam, ash and chestnut woods, at around 500-700 metres. Then there are beech woods and pine forests above a thou- sand metres, while grasslands, mountain pastures and dwarf pine grow right up to the rocky peaks. This area is a natural theatre for flowering orchids (over 60 species, from March to August depending on the altitude) as well as edelweiss, Baldo anemone, and wild peo- ny. In winter, your glance flutters from the soft blue surface of the lake and the wild dark green and reddish vegetation, to the snowy pastures, in an extraordinary portrait of the landscape. Those who want to try an exciting ski slope can alight at the Tratto Spino stop and off you go! onto the Pra Alpesina slope. The Baldo horse-riding route along the ancient paths of transhumance, which wind along for over 100 kilometres.

ROUTES AND SPORTS

In both summer and winter, you can practice a wide range of sports on Mount Baldo (mountain biking, paragliding, skiing, trekking, glid- ing, snowboarding, snowshoeing). Visitors can enjoy memorable MALCESINE excursions, with rare plants and flowers (from orchids to native species of Baldo), surrounded by rich fauna, including countless butterflies, eagles, grouse, roe deer and marmots. On the most inaccessible cliffs, the chamois reign supreme. The names of the routes marked on the topographic maps describe what you will discover there: “Mount Baldo and the view”; “The Prai” - meadows of Malcesine”; “The Forest”; “The Crests”; “Pozza delle stelle”; “Amongst the summer pastures”.

92 ••• ••• 93 TRAVELS | REISEN | TRAVELS VIAGGI

PHARMACOPEIA FLORA AND FAUNA

The Veronese “Paternal Mount” (as it was called by Giosuè Carducci) has an exceptional botanical richness known as "Hortus Italy", a name given by the scholar Giovanni Battista Olivi in 1584. Before him, in 1566, pharmacist and botanist Francesco Calzolari of the "Golden Bell Apothecary in Verona" wrote the famous operetta ‘Trip to Monte Baldo’, a report of scientific expeditions on the foothills of the Alps. Medicinal herbs were also collected during these ex- peditions. While Renaissance Pharmacopoeia found food on Baldo, today beauty and rarity are represented by 1952 species, 72 en- demic, 3 exclusive: the Callianthemum Kerneranum on the peaks, the Brassica Repanda on the terraces of Brentin-Belluno and the Gypsophila paniculata of Garda and Marciaga. The fauna of Baldo consists of birds such as the golden eagle, red kite, tawny owl and includes the hoopoe, the pheasant and many others. Among the mammals here are badgers, foxes, weasels and beech marten, roe deer, chamois that reigns supreme from the highest peaks and then the woodchuck, almost the symbol of Monte Baldo, which is very easy to see in the evening. www.funiviedelbaldo.it

94 ••• 94 ••• Prodotti del Caseificio Sociale Valsabbino direttamente dal produttore al consumatore PRESSO LA NOSTRA SEDE PUNTO VENDITA Lunedì Via Alcide de Gasperi, 12 - Lonato 8.30 - 12.30 dal martedì al sabato dal martedì al sabato 9.00 - 12.30 / 15.30 - 19.00 8.30 - 12.30 / 15.00 - 19.00 NEI MERCATI Serle Gavardo Cunettone di Salò Volbarno Salò martedì mercoledì giovedì venerdì sabato

Caseificio Sociale Valsabbino Società Agricola Cooperativa Loc. Mondalino - 25070 Sabbio Chiese (Bs) - tel. 0365 895700 / 0365 895099 www.caseificiovalsabbino.it - [email protected] GARD MORE LAGO DI GARDA • LAKE GARDA • GARDASEE

BRENZONE

TOSCOLANO MADERNO

EVENTS

ITINERARIES OF GARDA

Caseificio Sociale Valsabbino Società Agricola Cooperativa ISSN 2499-7730 Loc. Mondalino - 25070 Sabbio Chiese (Bs) - tel. 0365 895700 / 0365 895099 ANNO 4 • N. 8 | ESTATE 2019 | € 3,50 www.caseificiovalsabbino.it - [email protected] CIERRE GRAFICA ••• 99 Brenzone From the deep waters to the Field of Silence

text Claudia Farina / Photo Tiziano Cristofoli, Sonia Devoti

It’s broken up into fourteen hamlets, partly on the coast and part- ly in the mountainous hinterland. Fourteen hamlets make up the municipality of Brenzone, one of the largest in the province of Verona, which reaches the peaks of Monte Baldo with Cima Tele- grafo, 2,200 metres above sea level, and a popular destination for hiking. The stretch of lake in which the hamlets are reflected is narrow and deep, and the combination of winds makes it an ideal location for regattas. In fact, the Acquafresca Sports Centre and the Circolo Nautico di Brenzone [Brenzone Nautical Club], in Castelletto, organise spectacular sailing regattas, including the world sailing championships. (www.comune.brenzone.vr.it)

••• 99 100 ••• ••• 101 100 ••• ••• 101 FROM THE COAST TO THE HILL

Typical and ancient architectural works are scattered among the coastal and hilly landscapes. Those coming from the south will first come across Castelletto, whose name is de- rived from the castle of the Counts of Brenzone, which in turn BRENZONE refers to the name Brencionum. San Zen de l’Oselet, a Ro- manesque church decorated with 15th-century frescoes, some of which can be attributed to the Veronese painter who was known as “Ciconia”, is worth a visit. With a view to preserving identity and memory, it’s worth paying a visit to the Ethno- graphic “Mother Maria Mantovani” museum, which from June 1 is open on Tuesdays from 10 to 12.30, Fridays from 10.00 to 11.30, Saturdays from 15.00 to 17.00, and Sundays from 10.00 to 12.30. From Gardesana Orientale a slight climb leads to Marniga, with its small square overlooking the lake. Continuing along among the olive trees towards the high ground, you come to the Sanctuary of the Madonna de l’Aiut.

102 ••• ••• 103 The excellence of rustic architecture is located higher up, in Cam- po, which is reachable on foot, about half an hour from Marniga. It is a deserted district of incomparable beauty surrounded by olive trees, which bear material witness to the ways of building and living over the centuries, since the first documented evidence in 1023. It has low buildings of ancient stone, narrow vaults and tight passages, rustic portals from the year 1500, a frescoed church dating back to 1400, a marble sink from which fresh water flows, and wild fruits that grow spontaneously from amongst the wild vegetation. (see the extensive article by Stefano Ioppi in Gar- dAmore number 5, Spring 2018). Magugnano is home to the town hall of the municipality of Bren- zone, and a parish church with a marble portal constructed in 1531. Porto is a typical fishing village, while, on the border with Malce- sine, Assenza announces in its name the presence of the image of “La Sensa”, the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, painted on a canvas preserved in the fourteenth-century church. According to another version, the name “Assenza” derives from the steep slope on which it lies. (www.brenzone.it)

Via Chiesa, 32 - (Brescia) ph +39 030 9907208 - fax +39 030 9908512 102 ••• www.amadoripiscine.com - [email protected]••• 103 104 ••• ••• 105 104 ••• ••• 105 ••• 107 Toscolano Maderno The Paper Mill Valley

Text Claudia Farina / Photos Angela Orizio

One plus one equals much more than two. Toscolano and Maderno are two small towns, overlooking the Gardesana Occidentale, joined by a bridge over the Toscolano river, to form a single municipality. After papyrus and before the internet, there was paper: Toscolano Maderno preserves its memory; immersed in a wooded landscape, with industrial archaeology, the historical reconstruction exhibited in the museum, and the last direct testimonies of those who processed paper throughout their entire lives. Now the universe of paper has become a tourist attraction, in the footsteps of the Gonzagas of Mantua who, in 1600, spent their summer holidays in Maderno in the homonymous palace, which still exists today.

••• 107 THE PAPER MILL VALLEY

The starting point is the bridge over the stream; continuing westwards we climb up the Valley, which has hosted a large number of paper mills, well known to the Doges of the Serenissima Republic of Venice and the royal family of Spain, who bought paper here to TOSCOLANO use for recording official documents. The paper industry fed the MADERNO development of the area, both as a specialised business and as a main source of income for the population. The route climbs slightly up to the fork, where the valley opens up to surprising views, with short tunnels carved into the rock, the river, and the old paper mill with its museum and refreshments. Continuing on, you will come across picnic areas, meadows, woods and paths that lead to enchanting places.

THE PAPER MUSEUM

Since the autumn of 2002, the Maina Inferiore production complex, in operation until the 1960s, has been home to the Paper Museum. In addition to the Municipality and Province of Brescia, the Toscolano Paper Mill and the "Gruppo Lavoratori Anziani Cartiera di Toscolano" [the Veteran Papermill Workers club] have all contributed to the construction of the museum. The exhibition, which is of great interest, narrates the history of the paper production process from its origins dating back to the fourteenth century - the first factory was built in the small town of Camerate - to the twentieth century, through a tour that takes in the sixteenth-century core of the factory, with reproductions of machinery and equipment, and moves on through the large upper rooms, to discover specific operations during the Industrial Revolution. On display are the finds from archaeological

108108 •••••• •••••• 109109 excavations conducted in the Valley, along with several filigrees produced between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries, and a collection of books printed by the Paganini family, famous printers with workshops in Toscolano and Venice in the first half of the sixteenth century. The visit ends with a room dedicated to vintage postcards, donated by Andrea Derossi. The museum visit is enhanced by the guide, an elderly member of staff, who adds sentiments and anecdotes to the fascinating history of paper. www.valledellecartiere.it

THE 12TH CENTURY ROMANESQUE CHURCH OF ST. ANDREA

A shining example of intimately beautiful Romanesque architecture, the church is located in Maderno, not far from the Roman villa and the demolished temple of Saturn. It preserves suggestions of the temple of the Mother Goddess, a small bas-relief with a childbirth scene, so it seems, perhaps of pre-Roman origin, capitals and paintings. It’s a church worth visiting for its beauty and symbolism.

THE CHURCH OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL WITH CELESTI PAINTINGS

The parish church preserves the large canvases of Andrea Celesti, a painter who was very active on Lake Garda in the second half of the seventeenth century. Blessed were his donkey ears: he painted them on the portrait of a doge who had criticised him; out of prudence he then moved away from Venice to the Brescia lake coast, where he worked intensely in churches and private homes. His debut in Brescia took place in Toscolano, where in 1688 he painted the magnificent canvases of baroque and Venetian charm, now preserved in the parish church. In summer, the Municipality organises guided tours of the Church and the adjacent Villa Romana dei Nonii Arii.

CECINA

The village of Cecina, which is located on the Gardesana northwards Maderno, is spectacular: you can only go by foot through the narrow streets with beautiful views and fragrances of seasonal flowers, while from the square of the Church you can admire the full expanse of the lake.

108 ••• •••••• 109109 Produzione di Vini, Olio e Grappe Production of wines, olive oil, “grappa” and delicatessen Produktion von Wein, Oliven Öl, Grappa und Delikatessen

Vieni a trovarci in cantina... Degustazione libera di vini, olio, grappa... Come and visit us... Free tasting of wines, oil, grappa and more... Kommen Sie uns zu besuchen... Freie Verkostung von Wein, Öl, Grappa und mehr... ORARI DI APERTURA Opening hours / Öffnungszeiten Dal Lunedì al Sabato Monday - Saturday Montag - Samstag 9.00 - 12.00 ; 14.00 - 18.00 Domenica Sunday Sonntag 9.00 - 12.00

Via XXV Aprile, 6 - Tel. e Fax +39 0365 651380 - 25080 PUEGNAGO DEL GARDA (BS) - ITALIA [email protected] - www.cantinefranzosi.it 110 ••• GARD MORE LAGO DI GARDA • LAKE GARDA • GARDASEE

ISOLA DEL GARDA

GARDA

EVENTS

ITINERARIES OF GARDA

ISSN 2499-7730 ANNO 5 • N. 9 | PRIMAVERA 2020 | € 3,50 CIERRE GRAFICA 112 ••• ••• 113 Garda Island About women and contemplative spirits

text Claudia Farina / Photo Claudia Farina and Astrid Stemmer

From the depths of the lake to exotic scenery; from dragons and eagles to the neo-Gothic-Venetian villa reaching for the sky. The detachment from the mainland, the short water crossing, the landing in a lost and found paradise spanning thousands of years of history, marked by Roman tombs preserved in the Villa Giulia Museum in Brescia; Lombard and Carolingian remains; celebrated visitors such as Saint Francis (who was the first to plant citrus fruits in Garda), Saint Anthony from Padua, Dante, Saint Bernard from Siena and even pirates! This island, long and narrow like a ship, home to monks, aris- tocrats, Napoleonic generals, artists and writers is owned by the Cavazza family. The family opened it to the public in 2002, delighting the sensibilities of their guests with their historical, artistic, landscape and "strictly personal" heritage. Emerging from the waters belonging to the municipality of San Felice

112 ••• ••• 113 del Benaco, the island can be reached by setting sail from the ports of S. Felice, Salò, Bardolino, Manerba e Lazise. Upon docking at the marina, visitors are welcomed by ancient olive trees and little sculptures in the form of a dragon and an eagle, which stand out in the emblem of the Borghese family. The path - between terraces and evergreen cypresses, seasonal blooms such as the splendid Lady Hillingdon rose, lemon and orange groves with intense bouquets, capers clinging to the walls - leads up to the 15th-century monastery cells. As one's gaze reaches the shores of Sirmione, Bardolino, Garda and GARDA San Vigilio, tall palm trees, agaves and bougainvillea raise the ISLAND curtain on the elegant Villa Borghese Cavazza, a complex of buildings on seven levels, in the shelter of a headland. It is a wonderful moment of relaxation, with aperitifs and tastings of local products served on the panoramic terrace.

The women’s island It is named after the female genealogy of the last two centu- ries, enlivened with an authentic I care that continues today with Alberta Cavazza. After several changes of ownership, the island's rebirth occurred with its acquisition by Count Luigi Le- chi of Brescia (1817), who also installed a printing house. He was succeeded by Baron Scotti, who sold the printing house to Duke Gaetano de Ferrari of Genoa and his wife, the Russian Archduchess Maria Annenkoff, a novel noblewoman. Between 1880 and 1900 the new owners built the park, importing fer- tile land and exotic plants. Instead of villa Lechi, the neo-Goth- ic-Venetian style villa was built between 1890 and 1903, real- ising the Archduchess' dream of a miniature Venice on Lake Garda. After his death, his daughter Anna Maria - wife of Prince Scipione Borghese of Rome - and who took great care of the park and family memories, took over. In 1927 his daughter Livia, who was married to Count Alessandro Cavazza of Bolo- gna, became the owner and she left it to her son Camillo. After his death, it was inherited by his wife, Lady Charlotte Talbot of England and their seven children, including Alberta.

The island of contemplative spirits The contemplative spirit has lived here since the Franciscan hermits of the first half of the thirteenth century, among steps and narrow paths, groves of pine and cypress trees, the emer- ald green water behind the villa, marsh plants with aerial roots, rose blooms, irises, lavenders, the tropical landscape of aga- ves, cycads and the grandiose palm trees of the Canaries. In the parterre in front of the villa, expertly modelled box hedges depict the heraldic lily of the de Ferraris. Further on, one can see the lawn with a fairy-tale cabin, the place to meditate with the legendary power of the "Red Flower",

114 ••• ••• 115 114 ••• ••• 115 planted in Garda as an ancient wisdom transmitted by women. It is a secular, intuitive devotion to the strong energies that flow onto the island from Monte Baldo, from the Sirmione pen- insula, from Salò and from , that dance, music, and the joining of the hands all absorb, in the intimacy of those who know how to listen (info on the "Red Flower": Carla C. Co- lotti www.carlitamoonmother.com)

For reservations, visits and info on the Isola del Garda: mobile 328 3849226; [email protected] www.isoladelgarda.com

116 ••• ••• 117 116 ••• ••• 117 ••• 119 Garda The charm of nature and history

Text Stefano Ioppi / Photos Valentino Alberti and Stefano Ioppi

A long walk along the lakeside promenade to be enjoyed in the early hours of the morning or approaching sunset. Colours and sounds that change with the seasons but do not lose their charm, such is the thrill of a visit to Garda, the town that gives its name to the largest lake in Italy. The journey to this area, built on the shores of the lake with the majestic Rocca behind it, is a succession of emotions that are intertwined with the liveliness of the locals: once fishermen and farmers, now mostly professionals of the tourist trade. But the true soul of the people of Garda still breathes in the villages, in the narrow streets that intersect a few metres from the blue lake. Ice cream parlours, restaurants, clothes shops and more, abound in the lively historical centre from Easter to the end of September, in a municipality where there are certainly plenty of opportunities to party, listen to music, see shows and other entertainment events.

••• 119 And among the folkloric attractions we can't forget the Palio, which, on the day of the Assumption on August 15th with flat gondolas – the typical fishing boats - as the protagonists, the village's districts are represented in a race that takes place in the evening, in the water’s reflection, in front of the historic centre. If for fun you simply prefer a long walk surrounded by nature, then just veer off behind the parish church and the Borgo and climb along the Rocca.

Famous villas If on the other hand your desire is soak up some history, there is GARDA nothing better than to head towards the enchanting San Vigilio, inhabited since Roman times. It is accessed from a long avenue flanked by centuries-old trees that branches off from the Eastern Gardesana just outside the town of Garda in the direction of Torri del Benaco. At the end of the avenue stands Villa Guarienti, a sixteenth-century residence, with the medieval church of San Vigilio. Heading down a cobbled road you arrive at a small port, overlooked by the San Vigilio inn which counts Charles of England or Winston Churchill among its illustrious guests, the latter having retired here to write his memoirs and paint. Next to it there is the exclusive Taverna and the opportunity to swim in the enchanting Baia delle Sirene Park, surrounded by trees. Returning to Garda, in the town of Scaveàghe we find villa Carlotti- Canossa, a place that contains the secrets of the troubled love between the poet Gabriele d'Annunzio and the marquise Alessandra di Rudinì, widow of the marquis Marcello Carlotti, owner of the villa. In 1904 Alessandra and the poet were an

120120 •••••• •••••• 121121 item, though when she was subsequently abandoned, she closed herself in a Carmelite convent in France, where she died in 1931. Upon his death, the villa (which cannot be visited by the public) passed to the Canossa family. Leaving the beach in front of the villa we head towards Villa Albertini, where on 11 June 1848 the king of Piedmont, Carlo Alberto, received the Lombard delegation led by Gabrio Casati with the act of annexation of Lombardy to Piedmont.

City center In Garda’s historic centre, and in particular in Piazza del Porto, the ancient Palazzo dei Capitani stands out, which was once mirrored in the marina and now buried to make room for the current Piazza Catullo. In Venetian Gothic style the palace dates back to the 14th- 15th centuries and was probably the home of the noble Carlotti, vassals of Garda, as well as some captains of the lake. The Captain was the magistrate who represented the authority of the Serenissima Republic of Venice on Lake Garda. He had the task of supervising safety and preventing smuggling. A few meters further on, leaving behind the panoramic viewpoint of Lòsa, we see the square, overlooked by the town hall. You can continue from here alongside the lake on foot to Bardolino, cradled by the waves of Lake Garda.

120 ••• •••••• 121121 Caseificio Sociale Valsabbino Società Agricola Cooperativa Loc. Mondalino - 25070 Sabbio Chiese (Bs) tel. 0365 895700 / 0365 895099 www.caseificiovalsabbino.it [email protected] Caseificio Sociale Valsabbino Società Agricola Cooperativa Sapori d’eccezione tra cultura e tradizione. Exceptional flavours of culture and tradition. Nel cuore della Valle Sabbia, e precisamente In the heart of Valle Sabbia, in Sabbio Chie- a Sabbio Chiese, opera dal 1982 la coope- se, the “Caseificio Sociale Valsabbino” coo- rativa “Caseificio Sociale Valsabbino”. Nata perative has been operating since 1982. Set per mantenere viva la grande tradizione up to keep the great cheese-making tradi- casearia della Valle, nel corso degli anni ha tion of the Valley alive, over the years the inserito prodotti nuovi al fine di completare cooperative has included new products in la gamma e meglio soddisfare le esigenze dei propri order to complete its range and better meet the needs clienti. of its customers. Tra i prodotti storici il più rappresentativo è sicuramente One of the most representative historical products is la Formaggella Vallesabbia; classica formaggella pro- undoubtedly the Formaggella Vallesabbia, a classic dotta da secoli in valle con latte proveniente esclusi- soft cheese produced in the valley for centuries, deri- vamente dalla Valle Sabbia negli allevamenti dei nostri ved exclusively from our members’ farms in the Valle soci con prevalenza di vacche di razza Bruna che con- Sabbia, predominantly from Bruna cows, which give the feriscono al prodotto quelle caratteristiche organoletti- product its typical aroma and organoleptic characteri- che e di aroma tipiche della zona. stics. È un formaggio a latte intero di vacca, dal peso di circa It’s a cheese made from whole cow’s milk, weighing 1.7 kg, stagionatura di 60 giorni; la pasta è compat- about 1.7 kg, with a maturation of 60 days; the inside ta, leggermente proteolizzata vicino alla crosta, colore is compact, and slightly proteolysed near to the crust. bianco paglierino, profumo delicato, gustosa al palato. It is straw yellow-white in colour, with a delicate aroma, Oltre a essere apprezzata in fette magari in un croc- and tasty on the palate. Besides being enjoyed in sli- cante panino (i bambini ne vanno matti) la Formaggella ces, preferably in a crunchy sandwich (children love it), Vallesabbia è un prodotto che può essere impiegato the Formaggella Vallesabbia is a product that can be in tantissimi altri modi: ad esempio tagliata a cubetti used in many other ways. For example, it can be diced e inserita in insalate di pasta o di riso, oppure a sca- and added to pasta or rice salads, or flaked and melted glie sciolta per amalgamare un risotto delicato o ancora into a delicate risotto. It can also be used as a filling come ripieno in un involtino di lonza o sopra una focac- in a spicy pork loin roulade, or on a warm focaccia. It cia calda; costituisce un ingrediente importante per la is a major ingredient for the valley speciality “polenta “polenta tiragna” valsabbina da gustarsi in compagnia; tiragna”, to be enjoyed in good company. If you want e per concludere in bellezza un pasto con gli amici, to round off a meal with friends, cut it into small pieces tagliatela a pezzetti e mettetela in forno in una ciotola and put it in the oven in a clay bowl until it becomes di terracotta fino a che diventa dorata, il profumo che golden brown; the aroma that you’ll bring to the table porterete in tavola sarà irresistibile! will be irresistible! Se volete provare la Formaggella Valsabbia la trovate If you like to try Formaggella Valsabbia, you will find it direttamente nel negozio presso la sede del Caseifi- for sale in the shop at the headquarters of the Caseifi- cio Sociale Valsabbino in Località Mondalino a Sabbio cio Sociale Valsabbino in Mondalino at Sabbio Chese, Chiese, oppure nel punto vendita di or in the outlet in Lonato del Garda, at 12 Via Alcide in via Alcide De Gasperi 12, o nei mercati di Serle il De Gasperi. It is also available in the markets at Serle martedì, Gavardo mercoledì, Cunettone di Salò giove- on Tuesdays, Gavardo on Wednesdays, Cunettone di dì, Vobarno venerdì e Salò sabato, dove troverete un Salò on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, where you nostro automarket. will find one of our automarkets.

Caseificio Sociale Valsabbino Società Agricola Cooperativa Loc. Mondalino - 25070 Sabbio Chiese (Bs) tel. 0365 895700 / 0365 895099 www.caseificiovalsabbino.it [email protected]

GARD MORE LAGO DI GARDA • LAKE GARDA • GARDASEE

IL GIARDINO DI CASA BIASI

ISOLA DEL GARDA

GARDA

ITINERARIES OF GARDA

ISSN 2499-7730 ANNO 5 • N. 10 | ESTATE 2020 | € 3,50 CIERRE GRAFICA 126 ••• ••• 127 126 ••• ••• 127 128 ••• ••• 129 The Garden of Casa Biasi Green and flowery waves

Text and Photo Claudia Farina

Between the soft, blue surface of the lake and the wild green of Monte Baldo (Wald as its German name calls it) in the plain lies a Garden in motion. Away from the crowded banks of Lake Garda, the pleasure of tranquillity can be enjoyed by contemplating plants and flowers scattered in hedges, “rooms”, avenues and pots, while the perfumes of the forest undergrowth, roses, jasmine, citrus fruits, Datura, Wattakaka sinensis and Cali- cantus envelop the visitor in all seasons. This is the Casa Biasi Garden in Pesina, at 7 kilometre distance from Garda, 9 from the motorway exit and 36 from Verona.The Garden’s claim is “love wanted it; passion is keeping it”. It has been cared with love and passion over the last two decades by former doctors Cecilia Residori and Nico Biasi, the heirs of the authentic I Care of Mario and Luciana Biasi who in 1977 started to plant trees and flowers in the garden. This botanical treasure trove, covering a surface area of over 16 thousand square metres, including part of the ancient vegetable garden of the 17th-century Boldieri-Trentini Ve-

128 ••• ••• 129 130 ••• ••• 131 netian Villa, was built on the plot of land where the uncultivated vineyards were uprooted. The original project has developed over time in a sort of green wave, where viriditas, i.e. spiritual and physical health, is a vital force that feeds ideas, experiments and sensations that are perceived by the atten- tive visitor in empathy with the landscape. The romantic park and the Mediterranean garden are two essential elements of the Garden. The former, at the foot of the ancient staircase that descends from the first floor of the villa is reminis- cence of nineteenth-century parks. The itinerary starts from the “Rotonda dei tigli” [lit. linden tree roundabout], shaded by fragrant linden trees, cedars of Lebanon and maples under which hellebore blooms are followed in succession by camellias, iris, cyclamen, anemones, hydrangeas and hostas, surrounded by ferns and perennial weeds. The garden is embroidered with all species of rose, some- times embraced by the tall linden branches and horse chestnuts; worth mentioning are Rosa filipes Kiftsgate and Rose chinensis Mutabilis, whose blooms change colour from April to November. Beyond the exedra of the laurels, in a small clearing, you can see the little houses built for children to play in, and dwarves, just like in a fairy-tale landscape. To the east extends the Mediterranean terraced garden, with typical species and some curiosities: a small olive grove, cypresses, oleanders, citrus fruits, jasmine, palm trees, antique and modern roses, peonies, anemones variously distributed along the terraces. The variety of citrus trees is among the most interesting sights: there is bitter orange called “Bizzarria” [lit. bizarre] because it gives different fruits; the “Citrus Caviar” with many small fruits and the Pomelo with giant fruit. We pass through gardens of various sizes. Minute and cosy is the “Meditation Garden”, in the Ananda style (bliss, in Sanskrit); the “Garden of the Faun” evoking Pompeian memories; and then the “Gar- den of the Aviary” with a triumph of flowers; the “Peacock Garden” with flowerbeds and panoramic belvedere on the ancient wall; the “Medieval Garden” around the ancient wrought iron well embel- lished with Kumquat plants; the elegant wrought iron gate delineates the “Secret Garden” bordered by flowers; the “Victorian Living Room” and “Garden of Jupiter” are part of the dedications made to eras and characters of the past, such as the “Valletta of the Princes” adorned with the bust of Peter III of Aragon; and finally the large “Garden of the Chaparral”, which takes its name from the arid and stony desert of California, just to remember the commitment required to plant and grow luxuriant vegetation on difficult terrain. Last but not least, comes the “Athens Garden”, which takes its name from the Magnolia grandiflora. Beautiful avenues lend to far-off gazes: the “Camelia Avenue” with flowers cultivated in pots, offers spectacular blossom in the Spring-time; the “Mediterranean Avenue” that joins the Romantic Park and the Mediterranean Garden. There is no shortage of fruit trees from which one can pick pulpy figs and quinces, the origin of the exquisite quince jelly. And that’s not all... “Any shade of green here is there” observes our super guide Cecilia Residori who, after twenty years of dedication, seems like a botanist with a surgeon’s precision, and does not stop planting, pruning, cultivating and looking for seeds all across the world: viriditas effect!

INFO - The Garden of Casa Biasi A private garden which can be visited upon appointment, open from May to October. 144 Via Boldiera, 37013 Pesina di Caprino Veronese (VR), tel. (+39) 3394913811 [email protected]; www.giardinodicasabiasi.it

130 ••• ••• 131 132 ••• ••• 133 132 ••• ••• 133