ART and CULTURE INDEX CITY OF ART ...... pag. 4

SANTA GIULIA CITY MUSEUM...... pag. 6 The Monumental Complex of San Salvatore-Santa Giulia

THE ROMAN AGE...... pag. 8

DISCOVERING ...... pag. 10 Piazza del Foro and Capitolium (Capitolium temple) The Castle, Arms Museum and Risorgimento Museum Teatro Grande and the International Piano Festival Duomo Nuovo Duomo Vecchio Tosio Martinengo Art Gallery Diocesan Museum

AROUND BRESCIA...... pag. 14 Musil Pinac – Aldo Cibaldi International Children At Gallery Mazzucchelli Museums Museum National Museum of Photography Route

LAKE GARDA...... pag. 18 Vittoriale degli Italiani Rocca and Ugo Da House-Museum Prehistorical pile-dwellings in the Catullus’ Grotto and Castle and the on the shores of the lake The places of the Republic of Salò Tower of St. Martino The paper valley

CAMONICA VALLEY...... pag. 22 Archeopark Via Crucis route Adamello Museum

TROMPIA VALLEY...... pag. 26 Paul VI Collection of contemporary art Iron and Mine Route Sacred Art Route The forest narrates Other museums

SABBIA VALLEY...... pag. 30 The sacred and the profane Carnival Rocca d’Anfo

LAKE ISEO AND ...... pag. 32 Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa Rodengo Saiano Olivetan abbey Via Valeriana, between the Lake and the valley Ome forge

BRESCIA PLAIN...... pag. 34 Tiepolo in Padernello Castle

PHOTO CREDITS: Thanks to: Assessorato al Turismo - di Brescia, Archivio fotografico Musei Civici d’Arte e Storia, Fondazione Brescia Musei, Fondazione Pinac, Musei Mazzucchelli, Fondazione Ugo Da Como, Fondazione Il Vittoriale degli italiani, Centro camuno di studi preistorici, Bresciainvetrina, Mediateca del SIBCA di Valle Trompia. 4 ART AND CULTURE CITY OF ART

rescia is an outstanding where even nature and landscape Italian art city. become expressions of pure Its complex history has artistic beauty. Bleft visible marks on urban Nearby Lakes Garda, Iseo, and architecture, the profile of Idro are ideal destinations palaces, and the shape of for cosmopolitan tourists churches. who appreciate their rich Visitors strolling around in cultural offering, enchanting the city centre will pass a landscapes, and efficient tourism -style square, sip infrastructure. The valleys offer a coffee in the shadows of a innumerable opportunities medieval palace, enter into a to enjoy a summer or winter store and observe its vaulted holiday; they are the cradle ceiling and the exposed of our history, starting from walls, sit on a bench and scroll pure treasures such as the their iPads in front of a Baroque Rock Engravings (dating from church or in the heart of the Prehistory and declared World largest archaeological area in Heritage Site) to the Iron and northern . Mine Route in Trompia Valley This multiplicity of styles reminds which explains the culture and you of the long history of Brescia. history of metalwork in the area. This is a proud, elegant city where Rural Brescia plain is also full art and culture have always held of surprises: even the smallest an important role. Exquisite village boasts paintings, noble works of art can be found in its palaces, and old farms. museums, art galleries, cultural This richness encourages foundations, and its numerous exploration: visitors will discover churches that testify to the city’s the multiple facets of the Brescia profound religious roots. You region, try different experiences, will admire sculptures, paintings, and enjoy a fun holiday which , statues, and modern will also be educational and will and contemporary installations raise awareness. everywhere. Lastly, the This harmony can be experienced hosts three UNESCO World also in the surrounding region, Heritage Sites.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 5 SANTA GIULIA CITY MUSEUM

6 ART AND CULTURE n June 25, 2011 the Santa Giulia Monastery and the Capitolium Archaeological area included in the site “ in Italy. Places of the Power (568-774 A.D.) Owere listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage Site together with Cividale del , Castelseprio-Torba, , , , and Monte Sant’Angelo.

THE MONUMENTAL The monastery included lodging for COMPLEX OF pilgrims and the poor, and played a SAN SALVATORE fundamental role in the social context of SANTA GIULIA that time. Today, the whole complex, after The monumental complex of San an outstanding restauration and Salvatore-Santa Giulia in Brescia is an enhancement work, hosts the City extraordinary place. This nunnery was Museum and displays the most built in 753 by Brescia’s duke important artistic artifacts that narrate before he became king of the Lombards. the long history of Brescia and its region. The church of San Salvatore is one of the Of particular importance from the most significant examples of religious sculptural point of view are the Winged architecture in the Early Middle Ages; its Victory, the Emperors’ gilded bronze ornamentation is among the richest and heads, and the numerous marble best preserved. artifacts in the Roman section. THE ROMAN AGE TWO THOUSAND YEARS OF HISTORY…

8 ART AND CULTURE The splendor that the city reached private houses and the first Christian during the Roman Age is testified by places of worship. Inside the Museum, a the materials showcased in the Santa special exhibit is dedicated to a Roman Giulia Museum, which come from public, house (Domus) with remains from two civic, and religious buildings (such beautiful houses found in an area that as the late Republican Age sanctuary in the Middle Ages was near the nuns’ THE ROMAN AGE where the splendid ‘fourth cell’ was vegetable garden (hence the name recently restored, and over which the Domus dell’Ortaglia – vegetable garden TWO THOUSAND Capitolium temple was built), as well as in Italian). YEARS OF HISTORY…

9 DISCOVERING BRESCIA

10 ART AND CULTURE PIAZZA DEL FORO During the Roman Age, a grandiose AND CAPITOLIUM temple was erected on the hill. Since the (CAPITOLIUM TEMPLE) Middle Ages, the top of the hill has been fortified: first the Mirabella Tower was During the Roman Age it was the built, then the Visconti Keep in the 14th epicenter of Brescia’s political, religious, century, and the bastions and storage DISCOVERING and commercial life. buildings during the Venetian domination. The Capitolium Temple was on one After entering through the imposing end of the square, the old tribunal or 16th century entrance, which once had Basilica on the other, and the sides a drawbridge, you reach the panoramic BRESCIA had two colonnades with stores right gardens and the castle’s two museums. behind. Today, the combination of Roman The Risorgimento Museum is housed in remains, noble palaces, and old houses the Grande Miglio building and displays create a fascinating urban environment. items and documents from the Italian The Capitolium Temple was built under Unification Wars period, in particular Emperor Vespasianus between 73 and relating to the events that involved 74 A.D. and was the northern boundary Brescia and its region from ’s of the in the Roman city of Brixia. domination to . The Between the 4th and 5th centuries, it Arms Museum is inside the Visconti was partially destroyed by a fire, covered Keep at the top of the fortress, and it in debris, and rediscovered only in boasts one of the richest ancient arms 1823. Its current aspect dates from 1939. and armours collections in . The Inside the three cells there is a vast core of the exhibit is the Luigi Marzoli collection of Roman epigraphs as well as collection, which showcases and commemorative and votive stones coming Brescia arms production from the 15th to from the whole province of Brescia. the 18th centuries and is a testimony of The most part of the archaeological the exquisiteness and artistic significance artifacts found here are on display at of Brescia’s craftsmanship. the Santa Giulia Museum. Among the most significant exhibitions, the Roman collection is the most substantive TEATRO GRANDE AND in terms of numbers: apart from the THE INTERNATIONAL rich gravestone collection, there are PIANO FESTIVAL sculptures, mosaics, grave goods, and the The current auditorium of Teatro Grande bronze statuette series. was designed by architect Luigi Canonica Work is still in progress to complete and built in 1810. Girolamo Magnani the archaeological studies, perform decorated it in 1862. The Ridotto (Foyer), additional restoration, and add new visit opened in 1772, is one of the most itineraries. outstanding examples of 18th century architectural pomp applied to a theatre. Its lovely ceiling depicts a sky populated THE CASTLE by several Greek gods, and with a ARMS MUSEUM AND trompe-l’oeil balustrade all around. RISORGIMENTO MUSEUM One famous anecdote is that Puccini’s The Cidneo hill on which the castle Madame Butterfly was enthusiastically stands was inhabited since Prehistory. received when it was performed here for

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 11 the first time on May 28th 1904, after an Santa Maria Maggiore, was demolished unsuccessful first performance at Milan’s between the 11th and 12th centuries La Scala. This is where the opera’s fortune to make room for the ample circular started. building that you can admire today. Teatro Grande’s Season includes classic In the interior, in front of the entrance, and contemporary productions ranging lies the imposing red marble sarcophagus from opera to dance, music, and cultural of Bishop Berardo Maggi, lord of the events. Every year in the springtime, city, who died in 1308. A flight of stairs Teatro Grande hosts the International descends into the Rotunda, where 8 Piano Festival of Brescia and , pillars support arches that run along one of the world’s main piano events. its circumference and support the hemispheric cupola. The raised, deep presbytery contains the Sacred Crosses DUOMO NUOVO Chapel on its left, where precious The construction of Duomo Nuovo (New reliquaries are positioned behind Cathedral) started at the beginning of the protective grates. 1600s, on the site where old San Pietro de On the right, the Most Holy Sacrament Dom cathedral stood. This monumental Chapel is decorated with four paintings work, a project by Gian Battista Lantana, by Moretto and two by Romanino in the took two centuries to complete and area before the gate. underwent several modifications. The The choir is dominated by the final addition was the large cupola outstanding Assumption altar-piece of 1825. The building is majestic and by Moretto and is enriched by wooden imposing, with Baroque elements in stalls by Antonio da Soresina (1522). The the lower portion of the façade and organ was built by Costantino Antegnati Neoclassical elements in the upper (1536). Two sets of stairs on the sides of portions, added after the second half of the staircase leading to the presbytery the 18th century. lead to the crypt dedicated to St. Filastrio The interior contains noteworthy pieces (bishop of Brescia in the 4th century) with of art such as St. Apollonius Tomb (1510), columns and capitals belonging to the two double paintings by Romanino (one of the most important Renaissance painters in Brescia), and the altar piece by Giacinto Zoboli (1733), flanked by two statues by sculptor Antonio Callegari. On the left of the Altar, in the Trinity Chapel, there is an altar-piece by Giuseppe Nuvolone (1679), a grandiose ex voto for the 1630 plague.

DUOMO VECCHIO Duomo Vecchio (Old Cathedral) is also called ‘Rotunda’ and it is one of the most charming sacred places in Brescia. The ancient Paleo-Christian cathedral,

12 ART AND CULTURE crypt of the preceding cathedral (dating highlight the most significant artists in from the Roman Age, Bizantine- the Brescian painting and collectionism Age, and 8th-9th centuries). panorama.

TOSIO MARTINENGO DIOCESAN MUSEUM ART GALLERY The permanent collections of Diocesan The City Art Gallery (Pinacoteca) is Museum (Museo Diocesano) are divided housed in the Martinengo da Barco into four sections: paintings and palace and was founded in 1908 thanks sculptures, illuminated books, sacred to the donations of Paolo Tosio’s jewellery, and . (1844) and Count Francesco Leopardo The paintings and sculptures section Martinengo’s (1883) collections. Over time, showcases works of artists from Brescia it received other bequests with pieces and the region. A 14th century coming from suppressed churches or masterpiece is Virgin Mary with Baby demolished buildings, and more recently by Paolo Veneziano. The 16th from acquisitions. century is represented by the most The collection boasts true masterpieces significant local painters: Alessandro that make this gallery one of the top Bonvicino (called Moretto), Girolamo museums for antique painting in Italy and Romanino, and Pietro Maria Bagnatore. abroad. Incomparable beauty is found Jacopo prepared the sketch of in Raffaello Sanzio’s and Lorenzo Lotto’s Transfiguration for the Church of Sant’Afra works. Eminent 15th century Lombard in Brescia. ’s workshop produced maestro is showcased Christ’s Face, painted on stone. with numerous works; Brescian The 17th and 18th centuries have local Renaissance masters Savoldo, Romanino, artists Giuseppe Tortelli, Gian Antonio and Moretto are also displayed, as well as Capello, Pietro Avogadro, and Francesco 16th century portrait artists like Tintoretto Savanni as the most renowned figures in and . the collection. The 18th and 19th centuries are Veneto artists include , represented by some important artists Francesco Capella called Daggiù, Gian from different cultural approaches Battista Pittoni, and Giambattista Tiepolo (Palma the Young, Andrea Celesti). Local (Constantin’s Baptism). ‘reality painters’ like Antonio Cifrondi The section devoted to sacred jewellery and called Pitocchetto contains artefacts made starting from the are also worth mentioning. Pitocchetto’s second half of the 16th century. collection of works in the gallery is You can admire a series of manuscripts especially important for its quality and in the illuminated books section, writeen volume. from the 12th century on. A noteworthy The Pinacoteca is currently closed to the manuscript is the Order Book of the Santi public as it is undergoing restoration and Faustino and Giovita Confraternity of the restaging. town of . It will be reopened soon with a rich The vestments section is one of the selection of paintings from its collections most comprehensive in Italy. There are – temporarily on display at Santa Giulia Venetian, Italian, and French pieces Museum and the Diocesan Museum – to starting from the 15th century.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 13 AROUND BRESCIA

14 ART AND CULTURE AROUND BRESCIA

MUSIL Musil is the first Italian museum dedicated to industrialisation as a phenomenon encompassing the whole society. The exhibit uses a great variety of materials, conceptually organised so as to create a single thread along the history of industrialisation. The museum is currently composed of multiple sites:

• Museum of Industry and Labour is in Rodengo Saiano, Franciacorta. This exhibit contains the main machinery collections and artifacts and tells the story of Brescian and Italian manufacturing industry; significant pieces are a 1941 Ansaldo armoured tank, an old lithographic press, the prototype of a caravan, two large models of nuclear plants, and numerous machines and objects from a variety of production sectors (, cinematography, communication, IT, mechanics, textile, tanning, food, etc.) • Museum of Hydroelectric Energy, the emotions, feelings, and thoughts of in , Camonica Valley, is the thousands of children. symbol of 20th century modernity. It is The collection is constantly adding new the ideal venue for a new generation material through school submissions, museum. The leitmotiv is water: it contests, and international projects. runs from two fountains and down an PinAC is an exhibition and educational iron wall to gather into a hole in the space that fosters creativity and freedom ground. This represents how water runs of expression in children and adults from Alpine slopes and goes through alike, also with electronic paintbrushes. the hydraulic works in the Adamello It promotes and cultivates the right to catchment basin. The panoramic access beauty, a fundamental need for terrace overlooking the river everyone, through art. closes the circle and returns water back to its natural environment. MAZZUCCHELLI MUSEUMS • Iron Museum is housed in the old Musei Mazzucchelli are housed in Caccagni smithy and is a museum- beautiful Villa Mazzucchelli’s west wing. laboratory of industrial archaeology. The villa is in , at the oustkirts of The museum explains the historic role Brescia. Its scenic pronaos, the only one of the hydraulic wheel and immerses in , is in Palladian style and visitors into the atmosphere of this old was built using six columns from old San workplace where talented craftsmen Pietro de Dom cathedral (demolished used to work. The main objective of the to make room for the New Cathedral in museum is to offer an understanding of Brescia). the area by looking at its environment, There are three museums in the villa: history, economy, and society. the Museum of Fashion and Costume, displaying about 5,000 clothes and • Musil’s main site is under construction accessories from mid-1600 until the birth in Brescia, in a metal factory at the of haute-coûture in the 20th century; industrial outskirts of the city which the Museum of Wine and Corkscrews, was built between the 19th and 20th with one of the largest and most eclectic centuries, then abandoned, but still collections of vintage corkscrews in the maintaining its original design. world (over 2,300 pieces); the Giammaria Mazzucchelli House Museum, showcasing objects and furniture of the end of the PINAC - ALDO CIBALDI 19th century, among which a very rare INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN grand piano which belonged to Arturo AT GALLERY Benedetti Michelangeli (Brescia, 1920 – PInAC is the home of drawings made by Lugano, 1995), with an autograph in the children all over the world. It is in , sound box. right outside of Brescia. Other than these rich collections, another This international collection is unique in interesting exhibition in the villa is the Italy and Europe. It has studied children’s Giuseppe Alessandra Art Gallery, with expressiveness for over fifty years. The paintings and works dating from the 13th over 6,000 drawings, organised in digital through the 20th centuries and including files, come from 58 countries and portray some of the most important Renaissance

16 ART AND CULTURE painters in Lombardy and Veneto: Vittore photos of any size, age (starting from the Carpaccio, Paris Bordon, Tintoretto, and first photos ever taken) and authors; the Tiziano. dedicated library has 9,000 books. The passion for photography continues with the Ken Damy Museum, founded MILLE MIGLIA MUSEUM in 1990. It offers an auditorium, library, The Mille Miglia Museum is located courses, and above all, solo exhibits of inside the Monastery of Sant’Eufemia, a nationally and internationally acclaimed medieval complex at the doors of the city. artists. Created with the objective of offering a live testimony of the legendary car race (which was born in Brescia), the Museum MARBLE ROUTE has also become a wonderful opportunity The Marble Route is an interesting to learn about how culture, customs, and itinerary that stretches from Brescia society developed between 1927 and 1957 to and includes renowned (the years where the first version of the marble quarries. It describes the history race took place). and cultural elements of marble mining. The museum is chronologically organised Marble extraction has deeply influenced into three sections: 1927-1957, 1958-1961, the development of the land and and contemporary Mille Miglia. It displays the people in this area, as well as vintage cars, relics, and photos, as well as the geography of the hills, where the numerous references and presentations quarrying activity has created ample, very of monuments and Italian cities or visible amphiteatres. locations that the race goes through. marble is particularly well- Every section has descriptive panels known and has been used to build and about the history, customs, and beautify buildings for a long time. political and social events of the time, Examples range from Brescia’s Roman complemented by audiovisual support buildings such as the Capitolium temple like images and a series of screens that in the heart of the city, to more modern show vintage films of the race and its examples like Altare della Patria in Rome, protagonists. the White House in Washington DC, or the Statue of Liberty and Central Station in New York. NATIONAL MUSEUM A visit to the quarries is a historical and OF PHOTOGRAPHY naturalistic experience; you will learn Founded in 1953, the Museum of about the hard work of marble miners Photography reflects the passion that the and will also be able to admire artistic city has for this expressive form. pieces that showcase marble artists’ The museum is located in the city exquisite craftsmanship. centre; it displays cameras (including the world’s first camera), cinematography equipment, filming equipment, and dark room equipment (over 10,000 pieces). It also organises national and international exhibits, as well as conferences. The photo gallery includes 300,000

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 17 LAKE GARDA

18 ART AND CULTURE VITTORIALE DEGLI ITALIANI Civic Ornithological Museum housed inside the castle covers the entire Italian Poet Gabriele D’Annunzio’s house- ornithological landscape. museum, Vittoriale degli Italiani, The house-museum of Senator Ugo overlooks Lake Garda and is one of the Da Como (1869-1941) is at the foot of most fascinating examples of ‘Artist’s the castle. The guided tour touches LAKE Home’. Visitors are astonished by the twenty richly furnished rooms and variety and originality of the thousands of the outstanding library with over objects present in ‘Prioria’, the name he 50,000 ancient books and illuminated gave to his house. It is equally surprising manuscripts. The beauty of the town of GARDA to discover the bow of a cruiser (Puglia Lonato, which has retained the aspect ship) nestled in the promontory among it had under the Venetian domination, the greenery. The discovery continues justifies making this a full-day trip. Visit with MAS 96, the anti-submarine the Foundation, eat in the area, and stroll motorboat used for the ‘ mockery’ around the historic centre to discover (a military raid that D’Annunzio led in the Venetian works of art in the churches and Croatian ), the cars of the along the ancient roads. poet, and the Sva plane used in 1918 for his propaganda flight over Vienna. It is also interesting to visit D’Annunzio- ISOLA DEL GARDA the Hero Museum, where objects Close to the Brescian shore of Lake Garda, narrating his military career are at a stone’s throw from the town of San displayed. He participated in many Felice del Benaco, for centuries this heroic actions during and the island was the expression of the highest Occupation of (Fiume). mystical tension (St. Francis founded a The new museum ‘Secret D’Annunzio’ small community here). Today, its charm contains 150 precious and common use comes from an outstanding villa in objects that he used throughout his Venetian Neo-Gothic style, designed by life, and contemporary artwork inspired architect Luigi Rovelli at the beginning by the poet. Vittoriale is an absolutely of the 20th century. It is an imposing, fascinating place, one of the most visited harmonious building with a wealth museums in Italy, and a not-to-miss stop of interesting architectural elements. for everyone vacationing on Lake Garda. Degrading terraces and Italian gardens cover the island, from the villa to the lake. The luscious vegetation includes local ROCCA AND UGO DA COMO and exotic plants, rare fragrances and HOUSE-MUSEUM flowers, and a harmonious forest of pines, The town of Lonato boasts an exceptional cypresses, acacias, lemons, magnolias, monumental complex. Even the most and agave trees. Isola del Garda is magic demanding tourists will find it worth and mystery. visiting. The scenic set of buildings, gardens, and parks belongs to the Ugo PREHISTORICAL PILE- Da Como Foundation and dominates DWELLINGS IN THE ALPS the town centre. The grandiose castle, called Rocca (11th century) is one of the Prehistorical Pile-Dwellings in the Alps widest fortifications in Lombardy. The became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 19 2011. These are remains of prehistorical beach underneath, are the remains of villages situated on the shore of lakes the Roman villa that has been called or rivers, dating between 5,000 and 500 ‘Catullus’ grotto’ since the 16th century. B.C. These remains include portions of The grotto is what remains of a large villa buildings, relics, and organic material. which belonged to poet Catullus and was In the Brescia region, they were found in built between the end of the 1st century (in an area called B.C. and the beginning of the 1st century Lavagnone), Sirmione (Lugana Vecchia A.D. It is one of the most fascinating and Belvedere), Manerba (Gabbiano Roman archaeological remains in di San Sivino), and Polpenazze del – a site that makes visiting Garda (Lucone). These sites attract Sirmione even more enticing. university students and researchers Sirmione, located on the peninsula from all Europe because of their unique called with the same name, is one of characteristics. Excavation work is still the most charming towns in Lake Garda. ongoing but it has already unveiled The medieval centre is only accessible ample areas of these ancient villages through the drawbridge of a castle built and a wealth of archaeological findings in the 1200s. Its towers and crenellated that are fundamental to understand walls are a must-visit because from here the interaction of humans and the you can admire the entire lake and the environment during the centuries, an why hills surrounding it. people chose to live concentrated in a On one side of the castle lies a perfectly large village or scattered among a series preserved dock. The Church of San of smaller settlements. Pietro in Mavino (perhaps built by local To learn more, you can visit G. Rambotti fishermen in the 8th century) is just a few Museum in Desenzano and Valle Sabbia steps further, and then the visit continues Archaeological Museum in . It is among shops, traditional restaurants, also possible to register for guided tours and beautiful houses that were able to of the sites and even see how excavation capture the soul of Maria Callas, who work is performed. lived here for an extended period of time.

CATULLUS’ GROTTO ROME AND THE MIDDLE AND SIRMIONE CASTLE AGES ON THE SHORES At the tip of the Sirmione peninsula, OF THE LAKE dominating the lake and the white pebble Catullus’ Grotto is what remains of a

20 large Roman villa situated on the tip of the Sirmione peninsula. It belonged to poet Gaius Valerius Catullus and is one of the most grandiose examples of private buildings in northern Italy. From its dominant position, it offers unparalleled views and attracts millions of tourists. The Roman itinerary continues in Desenzano with the remains of another important villa and Museo Rambotti, which displays the oldest plough in the world (2,000 B.C.). This historical route continues with the Romanesque parish churches of Sant’Andrea in Maderno, Sant’Emiliano in Padenghe, and San Francesco in . A detour worth making the Sanctuary of Montecastello in , built over a dramatic overhang overlooking the lake. incapacitated to fight, 11 thousand died, and 23 thousand were injured) inspired THE PLACES OF THE Jean-Henry Dunant, who had visited the REPUBLIC OF SALÒ battlefield, to create the principles that A more recent historical itinerary would lead to the foundation of the Red includes the area where the Italian Cross. Every year, the battle is reenacted. Social Republic, or Republic of Salò, The surrounding area is covered in was founded at the end of World War II. of San Martino grapes, farms, Today, most of the historical buildings in and agritourisms. Toscolano Maderno, Salò, and Gargnano have become magnificent hotels and public offices. This is the opportunity for THE PAPER VALLEY a true journey through art, architecture, From the 1400s and until a few decades and contemporary history. ago, this valley in the of Toscolano produced paper, in particular for the Serenissima Republic of . TOWER OF ST. MARTINO The evoking landscape, which those who A 74m tower stands among the hills follow the nearby coastal road don’t even surrounding Lake Garda. This building, imagine is there, and the richness of decorated with frescoes depicting the historical remains attract several visitors. Risorgimento Wars (Italian Independence The visit includes buildings, the paper Wars) is one of the most visited sites in museum and the surrounding natural southern Lake Garda. area, full of steep slopes and narrow There are also an ossuary and small gorges where the rivers that gave power museum dedicated to the battle of to the paper mills flow. San Martino and in 1859. The violent battle (39 thousand men were

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 21 CAMONICA VALLEY THE ROCK ENGRAVINGS: FIRST UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE OF ITALY

22 ART AND CULTURE he rocks of Camonica Valley were engraved for 10,000 years. This is a form of writing before writing, a form of expression that has significant religious and social meaning for the Tprehistoric populations who lived here. It is possible to admire CAMONICA some of these rocks by going to one of the many natural protected areas, true outdoor museums open to individual tourists and educational tours: Parco Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri (), Riserva Naturale delle Incisioni Rupestri di Ceto, VALLEY e , Parco Nazionale dei Massi di Cemmo (Capo di Ponte), Parco Archeologico di Seradina Bedolina (Capo di Ponte), Parco del Lago Moro (Luine and Corni Freschi areas near ), Parco di Asinino-Anvoia (), Parco Archeo-minerario di , and multi-theme itinerary Coren delle Fate (Sonico). In 1979, the rock engravings were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the first such site in Italy.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 23 ARCHEOPARK CERVENO VIA CRUCIS This theme park enables visitors to “The most unknown and emotional travel back 15,000 years and learn about Italian Sacred Mountain”. the ancient Camuni population, the first This is how Via Crucis (Stations of the prehistorical inhabitants of Camonica Cross) in the Cerveno parish church was Valley. described. The park at the foot of Monticolo It is the work of Beniamino Simoni, wood Mountain (Boario Terme) covers an area carver in Brescia, who lived in the small of about 100,000sqm and is surrounded town of Cerveno starting from 1752 and by nature, in particular chestnut forests. created most of the 198 real-size statues It represents an ideal combination of in wood and plaster, set in 14 chapels to learning and fun, a day in a relaxing depict Jesus’ Passion. environment but at the same time an The unifying style and the fact that the adventure for parents and children who, same materials were used for all the under the guidance of cultural activity statues convey a very harmonious feeling. leaders, will enter prehistoric villages, This work, almost hidden in a small town visit caves and hunting shelters, learn at the foot of a mountain, has significant about the lives of hunters, craftsmen, artistic value and is a noteworthy and the first sedentary farmers, climb expression of the wood carving tradition over pile-dwellings, and penetrate into in Camonica Valley. the high walls and palisades of the fortified village built inside the forest. There are also ‘prehistory labs’ for hands-on learning activities on how people in the past lit a fire, ground wheat, melt metals, shot an arrow, built musical instruments, and traveled with a pirogue.

24 ART AND CULTURE ROMANINO ROUTE artistic maturity. The last stop is , in the 15th This short itinerary will unveil one of century church of Santa Maria the great Renaissance artists of Brescia. Annunciata. Here, Romanino’s paintings Indeed, the towns of , Breno, and have more subdued tones and fainter Bienno contain the most important works colours. The three large side walls depict of Girolamo Romano, called ‘Il Romanino’. the marriage of the Virgin, the meeting The itinerary starts in Pisogne, just with Joachim and Anne, and Mary’s north of , moving north along presentation in the Temple. Camonica Valley. The painter worked here in mid-1500, frescoing the vault and the walls of the Church of Santa Maria della ADAMELLO WHITE WAR Neve (16th century). This church is a true MUSEUM jewel; the interior is decorated with the The ‘Adamello White War’ Museum, cycle of the Passion which culminates in the town of Temù, preserves and with a dramatic Crucifixion. promotes the cultural, historical, The second stop is the Church of San and environmental elements that Antonio in Breno, half-way along the characterised World War I in Italy, which valley. Here, in 1535, Romanino frescoed was fought mostly along high mountain the presbytery with crowded scenes of fronts. It was called ‘White War’ because characters-spectators, positioned in large it was fought along the Alps and in architectural framing elements. The Civic particular along the Adamello front, Museum of Breno displays the Crucifixion, where there has been the highest oil on canvas, an example of the painter’s number of cruel battles in mountainous areas, whitened by ice and snow. The area stretches from the to Lake Garda, along high peaks. The Museum in Temù displays historical relics, weapons, and various documents pertaining to the war and the armaments. Educational activities are organised here as well as cultural and historical research initiatives, using books, documents, and multimedia tools. The guided excursions and tours of the trenches, casemates and battlefields are particularly interesting. These sites are all high in the mountains and offer fascinating views of the area and a window over a very important moment in history for Italy.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 25 TROMPIA VALLEY

26 ART AND CULTURE PAUL VI COLLECTION OF CONTEMPORARY ART

This collection was created thanks to several donations by the Brescian Pope, and is located in by his birth TROMPIA place. It gathers and displays seven thousand 20th century paintings, drawings, prints, medals, and sculptures which belonged VALLEY to Giovanni Battista Montini (1897-1978), who became Pope Paul VI. Famous authors present in the Trompia (Trompia Valley Museum collection are Matisse, Chagall, Picasso, Authority). Dalí, Magritte, Rouault, Severini, Morandi, Fontana, Manzù, Hartung, and Guitton. SACRED ART This testifies to the rich cultural ROUTE exchange between the artists and The conspicuous amount of religious the Pope and his secretary Pasquale archeological and artistic heritage Macchi. present in Trompia Valley’s churches, Besides the main collection, there are sanctuaries, and parish churches specific sections dedicated to graphic reflects how significant spirituality is for design and medals, and a large learning the locals. center. This itinerary was developed to promote the numerous sites scattered along the valley but also the masterpieces that IRON AND MINE they house (frescoes, paintings, and ROUTE wooden sculptures), attributed to great In Trompia Valley, you will be able Brescian masters such as Romanino, to experience an exciting journey in Moretto, and Foppa. These sites can be time visiting the places where its iron visited individually or with specialised production and culture developed. The guides that the Trompia Valley Museum city of Brescia has largely benefited Authority can provide. from this strategic production right at its outskirts. The tunnels and outdoor equipment of THE FOREST NARRATES iron mining sites, furnaces, foundries, Upper and mid-Trompia Valley’s and smithies constitute the main economy is still based on mountain stops along the route. They have been farming in nearby woods and breeding, transformed into industrial archaeology while the lower valley has vineyards, museums and are open to the public. fruit orchards, and chestnuts. They can be explored through themed The farming world is intertwined itineraries, educational activities, with nature, culture, and history. This reenactments, exhibits, and events itinerary, called Il Bosco Racconta (the proposed by Sistema Museale di Valle forest narrates) is promoted by Trompia

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 27 Valley’s Eco-Museum and originates OTHER MUSEUMS from the willingness to transmit ancient knowledge, involving visitors in life and Other museums in the valley are work experiences strongly connected Lodrino’s Ethnographic Museum, to the valley, along ethnographic and dedicated to forest, breeding, and naturalistic paths. mountain crafts and Constellation Museum in , which explores the sky with the Planetarium and Serafino Zani Observatory.

28 29 SABBIA VALLEY

30 ART AND CULTURE THE SACRED AND THE PROFANE

Sabbia Valley is military history, archeology, sacred art, and at the same time nature SABBIA VALLEY and outdoor sports. This region boasts forts and castles, smithies and foundries, wood carving and -making, ethno- graphic and labour museums, museums dedicated to Italian Resistance, and hidden masterpieces by Titian and Tintoretto. All this immersed in an authentic paradise for year-round outdoor sports lovers.

BAGOLINO CARNIVAL It is among the most traditional and fun folkloric events in the Brescia province. The origins of this Carnival are very old and still not certain. It is believed that the music comes from Central Europe and the dances from and Tyrol. Traditional costumes parade along the town roads: el- egant dancers, music players, and mischie- vous disguised characters. The keywords

are irony, colours, and conviviality.

ROCCA D’ANFO Rocca d’Anfo represents a very interest- ing military microcosm. It is composed of trenches, covered roads, spaces for the soldiers, and army barracks. Thanks to its strategic position by , it was a highly coveted base by the Venetian, French, and Austrian armies. Today, it is an appreciated tourist destination even if the buildings are still being restored. It is a medium-level hike, and you need to be accompanied by an authorised guide.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 31 LAKE ISEO AND FRANCIACORTA

32 ART AND CULTURE MONASTERY OF SAN PIETRO IN LAMOSA

The Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa offers an outstanding view of the Peat Moss, a natural reserve since 1983. LAKE ISEO AND The Monastery was built in 1083 in Romanesque style, but was subject to restructuring and expansions. This local artists, especially from the 16th and building is a true monument to 1,000 17th centuries. The abbey also has a book FRANCIACORTA years of European history; although restauration laboratory. traces of the different construction periods are visible, it still conveys a feeling of harmony. VIA VALERIANA, BETWEEN It was privatised at the end of the THE LAKE AND THE VALLEY 18th century and partially degraded, The ancient pilgrim route that connected but was restored in recent years and Brescia to the Camonica Valley starts opened to the public. The restauration from Pisogne and ends in Pilzone d’Iseo. unveiled several frescoes in the church This is a panoramic route alongside the and Disciplini oratory, dating from the lake with small votive chapels, village 11th and 16th centuries and inspired by churches, chestnut and beech tree famous Italian and international works. woods, and Zone, with the Rock Pyramid Intimate and charming, the small cloister Regional Park. The silence of nature and has a beautiful garden with spectacular the romantic walk create emotions and hortensia bushes and two secular shrubs. are conducive to meditation. You walk and admire fascinating views, forgetting for a moment the effort it takes to RODENGO SAIANO climb some steep slopes, which are OLIVETAN ABBEY nonetheless accessible to everyone. This San Nicola Abbey is one of the most is a popular activity because of the gentle monumental religious buildings in Italy. beauty around you. It was founded in the 11th century but prospered starting from 1446 when the Olivetan friars obtained the permission OME FORGE to use it from the priory of Rodengo. The Averoldi forge is named after an old The complex became public property of farming tool producers. but in 1969 it was given back for use to Located in the town of Ome, the forge is the friars, who returned it to its original open to the public. It dates back to the purpose. This marked the beginning of 15th century and has a still-functioning an imposing restauration work, which water-powered wheel which moves the returned to their old splendour the forge and allows demonstrations of how church, the late 16th century cloister iron was worked. The forge is part of a with paired columns, the small 15th fascinating complex of rural buildings in century rustic cloister, the refectory, the Borgo del Maglio where it is possible to monumental gallery, and various rooms discover the culture and experience that that display masterpieces from the main centuries of craftsmanship have created.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 33 BRESCIA PLAIN

34 ART AND CULTURE BRESCIA PLAIN

TIEPOLO Surrounded by countryside, in between IN VEROLANUOVA fields, with a moat that protected it from The church of San Lorenzo in assaults and various dangers, it is the Verolanuova is one of the biggest noble element of a splendid rural village, parish churches in Lombardy. This small with its large, elegant internal courtyards. village is in the fertile Brescia plain, not Old houses-workshops with their far from the main city, but the artistic traditional entrances can still be seen in value it contains is undisputable: two the village centre. large paintings by Venetian painter One inn and two traditional trattorias Gianbattista Tiepolo, dating from 1740. have revived the old village and offer yet One depicts Manna falling from the sky, another reason to visit this lovely place. and the other (exactly opposite the first, A very popular event is Mercato della in the same chapel) Melchisedech’s Terra (Earth’s Market), a farmers’ market sacrifice. Both canvases measure 55sqm. organised by Slow Food every third Size is not the only reason why the Sunday of the month in the centre. visitor is attracted to these paintings: After buying produce from small organic their quality is superior. producers, everyone eats together in an The church is a true artistic treasure atmosphere of heartfelt conviviality. chest. It also boasts the first cupola with overhead lantern built in the Brescia region.

PADERNELLO CASTLE This imposing residential castle was built between the 15th and 16th centuries by the noble Martinengo family.

BRESCIA AND PROVINCE 35 www.bresciatourism.it #visitbrescia