Volume L Number 3 Summer 2005 the St

unty -In.

Volume L Number 3 Summer 2005 The St. Lawrence County Historical Association at the Silas Wright Museum

The St. Lawrence County Historical Association is a private, not-for-profit, membership organization based at the Silas Wright House in Canton, New York. Founded in 1947, the Association is governed by a constitution, by-laws, and Board of Trustees. The Historical Association's membership meets annually to elect its trustees.

2005 Officers: 2005 Trustees: President: Carl Stickney, Norwood Patricia Carson, Canton Vice-President: Jane Subramanian, Potsdam Mary Colton, Canton Treasurer: Cathleen O'Horo, Canton Carol Johnson, Canton Secretary: Susie Wood, Hammond Heidi LeBrun. Massena (resigned 7/2005) Joe McDonald, Morristown Stan Maine, Pierrepont Anne Mazzotta, Canton Lowell McAllister, Heuvelton Todd Moe, Norwood Terry Niles, Brushton Susan Omohundro, Hannawa Falls 2005 Staff: Pat Pellegrino, Massena Trent Trulock, Executive Director Russell Strait, Waddington Sue Longshore, Collections Manager Jean Marie Martello, Archives Manager Betsy Baker, Administrative Assistant

Our Mission The St. Lawrence County Historical Association is a not-for-profit membership organization and museum which serves as an educational resource for the use and benefit of the citizens of St. Lawrence County and others interested in the County's history and traditions. The Association collects and preserves archival material and artifacts pertinent to the County's history. In cooperation and collaboration with other local organizations, the Association pro- motes an understanding of and appreciation for the County's rich history through publications, exhibits, and programs. The St. Lawrence County Historical Association operates within museum standards established by the American Association of Museums.

SLCHA Membership Membership in the St. Lawrence County Historical Association is open to all interested parties. Annual membership dues are: Individual $30; Senior/Student $25; Family $40; Con- tributor $55; Supporter $100; Patron $250. Members receive the SLCHA Quarterly, the Histori- cal Association's bi-monthly newsletter, and various discounts on publications, programs and events. St. Lawrence County Historical Association at the Silas Wright House 3 East Main Street, PO Box 8 Canton, New York 136 17 (315) 386-8 133 fax (315) 386-8 134 e-mail: [email protected] www.slcha.org Volume L Number 1, 2005 ISSN: 0558-1931 CONTENTS

From the County Historian Trent Trulock

Canton Opera House 4

Pyrites Paper Mill: Town of 60 Years Ago 5 Marie Rocca

Brick Chapel Marilyn Rodee

Morley Kay Casey

A Last Trip Down Memory Lane.. . 20 Remembering Life on the Thompson Farm Judith Thompson Liscum

Rensselaer Falls, "the other village in town" Sally White Hartman 26

Jerusalem Corners: 42 Bypassed by Route 11 and History Ashley Elliott

Mystery Photo Issue Editor: Cathleen O'Horo

On the Cover A view of the old Canton Town Hall and Opera House From the County Historian By Trent Trulock

We celebrate the Town of Canton's Bi- centennial in this issue of the Quarterly. When Canton began 200 years ago its des- tiny was by no means certain or preordained. There was no guarantee that it would survive for a few years, yet alone 200 years. An interesting aspect of Canton's history is that The Silas Wright House, home of the St. Lawrence the first non-native settlement almost began County Historical A~sociatjon. with Canadians instead of New Englanders. After the American Revolution, in 1787, New York State began auctioning off ney through the area to choose the place for so- called "unappropriated land" in Northern the settlement. As Hough's history relates New York. This land had been sold to the the members of the Canadian group: wealthy fur trader Alexander Macomb. The "taking several days' provisions on their land was auctioned off to bring the state badly backs, and guided by persons who had been needed revenue to help pay war debts from employed in the survey, they separated in the American Revolution and also to lead to small parties, and pursued their course in settlement of this buffer zone between the various directions, through the woods. At newly created United States and Canada. night they would meet at an appointed place, Within this great Macomb's Purchase were the kindle an immense fire of logs and dry mate- original ten towns of St. Lawrence County, rials which they collected, and camp around which included the Town of Canton. At this it for the night. time Canton and the other towns only existed Everything proceeded agreeably for a on a map and had not yet been surveyed. So while, but unfortunately for their harmony, in 1799 surveyors arrived in Northern New numbers of them came from different quar- York to go to work. ters upon a remarkably beautiful tract of land, The following is taken from Hough's in the southeastern part of Canton where the 1853 History of St. Lawrence and Franklin hard timber was unusually clear and lofty, Counties New York. and a meandering stream wandered through As the surveyors began their work they the forest between banks that, in their native also traveled to the border towns in Canada. growth of timber and herbage, and in the soil After a short while a group of 30-40 Canadi- at the surface, betokened unusual richness ans learned of this area from the surveyors and fertility. Here, without the knowledge of who had surveyed the townships of Canton each other, several parties resolved to locate and Lisbon. their interests, and in accordance with the The Canadians formed an association prevalent custom, commenced slight improve- and were looking to settle on a ?h of a town- ments, which in their opinions, would confer ship in either Lisbon or Canton. This Cana- a preemptive right to the soil. These proceed- dian association went so far as obtaining a ings soon became known to the whole party, conditional bargain to buy the land from the and the overlapping claims of rivals engen- current owners. They then decided to jour- dered a party strife, in which each loudly vo-

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 ciferated his claims, and insisted upon the And that is how Canton was not priority of his arrival, and in an incredibly short settled by Canadians. It is stories like this space of time, the schemes of the whole party that makes history fun for me! were dissipated. Of confidence in each other's On a slightly different topic, my thanks honor, they had none; and the mutual distrust to Mary Smallman, Hermon Village Historian, led to the dissolution of the company, who for pointing out spelling errors in the Louisa scattered immediately, and by different routes, Thayer Meyer article in the winter, #1 2005 sought the St. Lawrence, and crossed again to Quarterly on page 14. She pointed out that Canada. Some being ignorant of the course of the maladies discussed in the lstparagraph the rivers, wandered from their way, and did should have been "scrofulous" and that "rev- not reach the great river, till they had arrived erend" was incorrect in the 6thparagraph. in Louisville; and when they gained the settle- Thanks for your input Mary and keep read- ments, were nigh exhausted with hunger and ing closely! fatigue." A History of St. Lawrence and FranMin Counties New York, Franklin B Hough, 1853, 1970 facsimile edition, Regional Publishing Company, Baltimore, p273-275.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 Canton Opera House

Another view of Canton S old Town Hall and "Opera House". It stood at the corner ofMiner Street and Main Street where the present Municipal Building is. It housed the Town of Canton ofices as well as several businesses including a news shop and appliance store. An auditorium on the upper floor was used for plays and high school and college graduations. The auditorium was not used for many years prior to the fire because of safety concerns. The clock tower contained a bell run to signal fires and other events in early years. The bell can still be found outside the Municipal Building. This building was destroyed byfire on a cold February morning in 1962.

4 St. Lawrence County Historical Associa tion Quarterly L:3, 2005 Pvrites Paper Mill- ~ahnof 60l~earsAgo - By Marie Rocca

Author's note: The following article was &tten easily broken out by hand. One part of alum by Edward Austin for the Quarterly in July to three of copper was found. A thousand 1965. He has graciously permitted me to copy tons of copper and a third as much of alum it for the Canton Bicentennial (2005). As I have written the article, I have obtained more history were obtained before the project was given on Pyrites and have included it along with the up. The New York markets used most of the original. production. Because unlimited quantities of iron ust below the High Falls on the Grasse pyrites existed here, a sulfuric acid plant was J River, near the southern part of Canton lies later built in the locality. This was con- Pyrites. Copperas and alum were manufac- structed on the island, a short distance be- tured here in 1832 by S. and H. Foote of Can- low High Falls. By 1893 pulp was being made ton who were later joined by C.W. Shepard and here and sent to other mills in the vicinity to J.C. Bush of Ogdensburg. be made into paper. It was drawn by teams The first year not much was accom- to Canton or Eddy and shipped by train to plished except fir getting things ready. But other places. The sulfite pulp was made in then the enterprise was found unprofitable, the form of laps which would be handled and so was abandoned after 3 or 4 years. easily, because it could be made into rolls. The rocks were found to be rich in iron. Logs were floated down the Grasse however, and being porous in nature, were River for pulp from which to make the sulfite

Paper Mill

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 laps. A mill was all that was needed to make tional Paper Company took over the mill and it possible to complete the process of paper continued to operate it until 1930 when the making at this location. In 1903, construc- mill was closed and equipment moved away. tion of a paper mill began. The closing resulted from the high cost of The late Frank Augsbury Sr. was one wood pulp and crash of the New York stock of the promoters of this paper mill. The lack market. of adequate capital made progress slow. How- At the height of the industry, the popu- ever, the project proved successful. The op- lation of the village reached about 1500 but eration became known as the DeGrasse Pa- soon after the mill went down this began to per Company and continued to manufacture diminish rapidly. Houses were sold and torn newsprint paper until 19 19. At that time the down for the lumber and were transported to firm was sold to a New York newspaper, the various points for other uses. One reason for old New York World. In 1927, the Interna- this was that the company did not own the

6 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 land on which they were built, so they could running along the line of the river was named be sold only with the understanding that they Main Street. Broadway ran from the corner were to be moved. The people who remained where Pelton's Store was and up past where in Pyrites owned their homes. the school stood and by the St. Paul's Catho- The closing hit hard, not only Pyrites lic Church. Churchill Street ran from Pelton's but Canton also because of the $15,000 weekly Store on the corner up past where Robert payroll. Most of the business was done in Kelly had a gas station and his mother. Ethel Canton. Kelly, was postmaster for many years. This In May, 1894, seven blocks had been street was named after 0. B. Churchill who laid out, containing 182 building lots. Plans built most of the houses. were made for more houses to be built. A road

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 7 0. W. Crane gave a building site and Canton. The first 6 grades continued to at- grounds for a school. Later two other schools tend school there. were built, the Townline School and the During the period 1921-22, the li- Cousintown School. In 19 15 the Pyrites dis- brary was built. A four-day carnival was held trict met to organize the district as the Py- to raise money to build the building. Charles rites Union Free School district. This was the D. Ingram of Ogdensburg was put in general first step in the move for a new high school. charge of the carnival. Dancing, baseball In 19 19, a special meeting was held and games, and many events were held. Later, $50,000 for a new high school was voted, and card parties and similar events were held to construction was started in October 1921. In raise additional funds. The library contin- 1922 the school had a registration of 258 with ued to operate until it burned in March of 233 in grade school and 25 in high school. 1959. The school had 9 teachers and a principal. Pyrites never had any local government Fortunately the construction, which was fi- except that provided as a part of the Town of nanced by a bond issue, was completely paid Canton. Group meetings were held to com- the year the mill closed. In June 1938 the municate and present the ideas and wishes high school closed and students moved to of the people to the Town Board.

1 3 d*? 3 4 f s-,k: ." 4 F;p1~'.*,~~/ &m /J1gt,/ih t3 -7e fl/f;f- ty~*j/e if- '%" i~a

8 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 The first fire department was organized St. Paul's Catholic Church was built in 1919, with 20 members, later increased to in 192 1, primarily through the efforts of one 35. Some of the members included J. J. St. man, Father Michael Kelly. Father Kelly was Louis, Sam Hewitt, George Newman, Herb a native of Ireland, born there on April 14, Morgan, James Given and Frank Lavery. The 1885. He was appointed resident priest in first department had two horse carts and 550 Pyrites in 1919. Since there was no proper feet of hose, a hook and ladder wagon carry- church, mass was said and catechism was ing 500 feet of hose and three 40-gallon chemi- taught on the top floor of the three-story cals on wheels. building called the Murray block, located on The Crane Memorial Church was built Main Street. Father Kelly soon began to ex- on land donated by the Crane estate. Origi- hibit his abilities as a carpenter. Using every nally it was a Union Church and later Episco- hour he could spare from his duties, he palian. gradually built St. Paul's Church with the help of local parishioners. The beauty of this

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 9

,. .,. . .Pyrites Paper Mil

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 I I A4urray Hotel

Ir~ternationalI-lotel

12 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 structure is remembered by all who view it, national Brotherhood of Pulp, Sulfit and Pa- the gothic design of the altar, the oak pews per Mill Workers, and Local 136 of the Inter- and wainscoting lends a sense of warmth to national Brotherhood of Paper Makers. the interior as the light shines through the There was a theater, and a commu- multi-colored stained glass windows. nity gathering place, Murray Hall, later Pyrites enjoyed the entertainment and known as Union Hall. This was used for all social life typical of a small community. Box social occasions. Bazaars and sometimes socials and dancing were popular, so popular church services were held there. The main that a dancing class was started in 1902. social event of the year, The Papermakers During the latter 1920's. there were numer- Ball, was held Easter Monday evening. ous clubs and associations: the Dramatic Club, the Library Association. Tennis Club, and La- dies' Aid Society and even a "Pyrites Improve- ment Society." In the early days, "medicine" companies such as the Oregon Medicine Com- pany and the German Medicine Company visited Pyrites for a week or so during the year. Another company that visited Pyrites was the North American Concert Company. In addition to these organizations there were two unions, the Pyrites Local No. 54 of the Inter-

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 13 Brick Chapel By Marilyn ~odee

lans for the present Brick Chapel Church Six memorial windows were dedicated P were discussed by inhabitants of the Town and installed in 1923. The same year the bell of Canton on March 10. 1819. The first board from the old White Church in Crary Mills, of trustees organized in 1815 and the first given to that church by H.E. Pierrepont, was church edifice in Canton was constructed in raised into the steeple of Brick Chapel where 1823 on property donated by William it still tolls before each service today. Two Richardson. He designated this property for stained-glass windows have since been church and cemetery. The walls were of solid installed from the Todd and Rodee families. brick, the seats were rough boards without Through all the years since 1858, the Ladies backs or cushions. It was lighted with tallow Aid Society has played an important part in candles and heated by burning charcoal in a the maintenance and support of the church. potash or iron kettle. In 1858 the old church The LAS has held many dinners and socials edifice was replaced by a new building which and other activities to keep the church going stands today. Bricks of the old building were in its lean years. Today they still meet used inside the walls of the new one. A par- monthly for a potluck dinner when the yearly sonage was built in 1845. Electric lights were chicken barbeque and ice cream social are installed in 1931 and currently the church is planned. heated by oil. The basement was remodeled The years have seen many ministers, for better dining and kitchen facilities in 1930, student ministers and others guide the con- and then remodeled again in the 1980's. The gregation and young people of Brick Chapel front steps have been rebuilt several times, through regular services and Sunday schools, most recently in 2004. A handicapped ramp plus summer programs and Bible schools. was added in 2004. The church now holds services from June Brick Chapel was a Methodist church through September with special services at until 1912 when it came under the jurisdic- Christmas and Easter. It is the setting of tion of the St. Lawrence Presbytery, now many weddings each year. known as the Presbytery of Northern New From the early prayer meetings of 1808 York. After the Methodists built another to the present, the church society has con- church in the village of Canton, the Brick tinued through good and poor times. Al- Chapel in South Canton became pretty much though it is not quite as old as our town, it a rural church supported by the families of has withstood the test of time and still flour- the area. It has remained a small, but im- ishes as a worthy descendant of that first portant church through all the years. A dedi- Brick Chapel of 1823. cated core of long-time families has always kept the church going, although there were periods when regular services were not held.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 Morley By Kay casey (Additional Research contributed by Floyd Beswick)

orley, formerly known as Long Rapids, is son settled on the east side of the river, and M pleasantly situated on both sides of the built the first frame house. Mr. Bailey built a Grasse River in the northeast corner of the frame house on the west side of the river. town. It is near the line between Canton and The first bridge was built in 1820. Before Lisbon, and six miles from the Canton village. this the settlers on the west side, when go- Stillman Foote began the settlement by building to the mill, would stop on the bank with ing a dam and erecting a sawmill in 1810. their horse and a flat-bottomed boat. Christopher Wilson and Pitts Bailey from Ver- Charles Barrett built the first sawmill, mont bought the village site and the sawmill on the west side. J.P. Cummings kept the in an unfinished state. In 1815 they put into first store and goods. A year or two later he this mill two runs of rock-stones with a bolt. built the stone building which Issac Whitney Two years later they built a new mill. These ran as a store. The present Grist Mill was two mills stood about four rods east of the built in 1840, which was owned by Thomas present stone mill. In one corner of the last Harrison. William Washburn was the first mill Thomas Fenton had a room where he car- blacksmith and Eden Ray was the first car- ried on wool carding and cloth dressing. Wil- penter in the village. The stone schoolhouse

St. Lawrence County Historical Associa tion Quarterly L:3, 2005 15 Trinity Chapel was built in 1857 after plans furnished by Fenton, W.Z. Whitney and Ed Spaulding. Mr. W.H. Harrison. When the Post Office was There were three blacksmith shops run by first established here at Mr. Harrison's request Frank Fulton. Martin Scanlin and Anson But- the name was changed to Morley. Mr. ler. Orson Robinson was Postmaster. Morley Harrison was secretary of the State Agricul- had two hotels, which were run by Isaac ture Society. On his farm near the village, Whitney and Mr. Cunningham and two feed which is now the Neil Jordan farm, he had mills run by Frank Whitney and Harley the finest herd of shorthorn cattle in the coun- Philpot. Henry Fenton and son, Elmer, owned try. He occasionally sold cows for $6,000, and operated the sawmill; William Smith the and a bull for $15,000 or $20,000. In 1878 cider mill; Deforest and Prentice Whitney the the population was about 300 people. cooper shop; and Thadius Thayer the wheel- Many changes have taken place in wright shop. Morley during the past 80 or 90 years. At In the early days the two churches were that time there were huge log drives on the filled to capacity on Sundays, as many as sev- Grasse River, to the James Spears mill at enty-five youngsters attending Sunday school Bucks Bridge, one of the largest mills in the at Trinity Chapel and also the Wesleyan North Country. There were four general Church. At times there were as many as 120 stores, operated by William Scruten, Healy children attending the old two-room stone

16 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 school, which was the oldest school in the Previous to 1900 other businesses were Canton area, having operated continuously for located in Morley, such as the tannery, owned 125 years. and operated by R.M. and L.D. Witherbee; a The first annual tax on Morley was $150 melodeon factory operated by Joe McKee; and in 1859 for three terms, fall, winter and sum- a carding mill built by Thomas Fenton and mer, each for two and a half months. By 1942 operated by John Corey. Three asheries at the Morley School budget had reached $3,075 one time were operating day and night. John and in 1944 it reached $4.439. William Johnson ran one; later selling to his son Harrison, a nephew of Canton pioneer Tho- Crawford; the other two owners were Isaac mas E Harrison, planned the Morley School Henson and Asa Fenton. Three shoe shops originally were operated by Felix Murray, John Taylor Stone for the school, originally a two- and Alec Amo. room structure of a quaint Gothic style, which made it look like a church, was quarried in Morley Asheries the nearby fields of the Finnimore farm on the Canton road, owned today by Lloyd and Betty One of the progressive businesses in Smith. The same stone was used to build the Morley a century ago was the ashery busi- Episcopal Chapel across the road from the ness. Young boys used to earn money by school. At one time there were nine grades in buying ashes for six or seven cents a bushel the school, for more than three-quarters of a and selling to the Johnston Ashery for ten century it was heated by a large box stove in cents a bushel. each classroom.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 17 At the beginning of the cold weather Mr. "potash". Placing it in an oven constructed Johnston, who owned the two asheries, would especially, and pearled or made white by the equip several sleighs with high boxes driven action of the extreme heat that beat upon by a collector who covered a certain territory. the ash in question made pearl ash. The There were as many as four of these outfits at market was very fluctuating for these com- one time, and the collectors were Rob and modities and often they were sold at a loss Crawford Johnston, sons of the proprietor, to the maker. A Mr. Arnold who had a shop William Hurst and Dick Finnimore a farmer over the river was a cooper who made the living in the Olin settlement. These collectors barrels for these products. on the night previous to their trip would go to the barrooms and stores and exchange bills Morley Mill for small change to be used for paying for the The Morley gristmill on the bank of ashes the following day. Some days they would the Grasse River is the only one in St make a great many miles, and during a bliz- Lawrence County surviving in its nearly origi- zard it was a tough job as the roads were piled nal design. It was built in 1840 by Thomas deep with snow. Ludlow Harison and managed during the The ashes were shoveled into big vats 1840's by Rufus K. Jackson. The rough or bins, at the bottom of which was placed a ashlar limestone walls are trimmed with large quantity of straw. Water was pumped sandstone lintels. The symmetrical window into these vats, which leaked down through arrangement, Federal doorway, and gable the ashes. The lye was caught in a receptacle, roof are characteristics of the early 1gt1lcen- from which it was dipped and poured into a tury architecture in this area. The stone was large iron kettle which was placed and boiled taken from Harison's quarry in Morley. Lo- to a certain degree of strength. This was called cal families took the grist of wheat, oats, bar-

18 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 ley and shelled corn to the mill where four exact copy of a rural Gothic church some- runs of millstones ground the grain into vari- where in England. The Rt. Rev. William C ous flours. For several months of the year Doane, the Episcopal Bishop of Albany, a man this process continued day and night. Op- well acquainted with the Ecclesiological phi- erations of the mill ceased in 1935. losophy, consecrated the chapel in 1871. He may have assisted in the design of the chapel. Trinity Chapel The church walls are made of brick two Trinity Chapel, located on the banks feet thick with a native stone on the exterior. of the Grasse River in Morley, is an important Local stone was also used to carve the altar example of the 1gth century church movement and font. An early member of the congrega- known as "Ecclesiology." The Ecclesiological tion carved the pulpit and pews in Morley. movement stressed a return to the devout Above the altar was installed a stained glass Middle Ages, including construction of window imported from England in the 1870's. churches modeled after 13th century churches Much of the floor is comprised of stone flag- in England. Trinity Chapel is a North Coun- ging. The church's first recorded baptism oc- try example of this religious fervor. Its field- curred on November 14, 1869. stone exterior, gable end bellcote, side en- Today the chapel is still in good condi- trance porch, open beam rafters and many tion and special summer services such as other details suggest that it may well be an weddings and christenings are held there.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 A Last Trip Down Memory Lane ... em em be ring Life on the ~hornpsovnFarm By Judith Thompson Liscum

n the spring of 2004, the Thompson family The Thompson family ties to that prop- Ihomestead was razed. The present owners erty date back nearly 100 years. Our grand- of the property, SeaComm Federal Credit father, Elmeron E. Thompson, was still in his Union, took down the house, making way for teens when he wandered up onto the farm- a new credit union building. However, the house porch in 19 1 1 looking for work. The big red barn was saved. The Thompson farm owner, Abbie Squires Martyn, needed a farm- sits within the village of Canton at 101 East hand and asked one question: "Can you Main Street, across Rt. 11 from the Best West- milk?" The young fella proved he could by ern University Inn. St. Lawrence University hand-milking twelve cows in forty-five min- bought the property from Stanley and Jean utes. Grandpa was hired on the spot! Abbie's Thompson in 1973. husband Elisha was incapable of running the

Memberes of the Martyr] Family at the TJ~ompsonFarm. Possibly relatives of Tyler Martyn.

20 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 farm, and possibly had been incapacitated for cludes the present day Noble Medical Cen- some time. My brother Larry remembers ter and Romoda Drive. Deeds I have studied Grandpa telling that as part of his job, he "slept show that Elisha Martyn's warranty deed was with one eye open" in case Mr. Martyn should recorded on June 28, 1872. In that deed, wander about at night. Elisha Martyn died on there were several conditions which may be November 15, 1913, survived by his widow and considered eccentric today: "The premises seven nieces and nephews. described in the deed, upon the express con- Apparently, following the death of her dition that the said party of the second part husband, Abbie changed the spelling of her (Elisha) will furnish to the said party of the surname. All records refer to Elisha and his first part (Tyler) at all times that the said party parents as Martyn, not Martin. The Martin/ of the first part may elect to remain with him, Thompson plot at the Evergreen Cemetery, his board and the exclusive use of a certain which also entombs our parents and grand- bedroom now occupied by the said party of parents, has both Martyn and Martin mark- the first part, free of charge. And upon the ers. further condition that the said party of the Elmeron Thompson was an ambitious second part shall not sell the above described young man, and proved to be an excellent land at any time before the death of Tyler farmhand. He had served on a handful of Martin without his consent thereto." Going farms since leaving his father's house at fif- back further, I discovered that Tyler's par- teen. Larry recalls Grandpa's tale of flight from ents, Albert and Mary had made similar re- his home on a rural road near Potsdam. The quests when turning the property over to youngest of seven children, Grandpa fled his their son in 1842. parents' house and never returned. His sis- Unfortunately, I was not able to trace ters had graduated from the Potsdam Normal back any further than 1842. However, men- School, and brother Irving from Clarkson. tion is made of Festus Tracy as the owner of Grandpa was beaten regularly by his father one of the parcels which was added to our and told he would never amount to anything. farm in the early years. Festus was the Ver- He had saved $100 from raising hogs (a huge mont surveyor who laid claim to the farm- sum for his day), and left on his bicycle with land beyond the present SLU riding stables just a change of clothes. Great-grandpa Th- and across Tracy Brook. He was the first ompson never found him for a year. It seems land owner in the town of Canton. That was that Elmeron's love of horses had led him to in 1799, a year before Stillman Foote pur- the St. Lawrence County Fair. At that time, chased the mile square on which the Canton the fair was held in September each year on village stands. Interestingly, according to Dr. the county fairgrounds just off Riverside Drive Payson, a renowned Canton historian, Elisha which is known as the "Fairlane Development" Martin was the grandson of Festus Tracy. here in Canton. His job was to hold the A call to Herb Judd brought additional farmer's team of horses. Elmeron's father met information regarding the earliest years of the up with him at the fair and begged him to come Thompson Farm. According to Herb, his home, saying that his mother missed him. great-great-great grandfather Dan Judd, the However, Grandpa knew that if he returned first miller in Stillman Foote's mill, was an home and forgot to do a menial job, something early owner of the property; perhaps the first. simple like locking the back door, the beat- Dan was another Vermonter who braved the ings would begin again. wilds of the Chateaugay trail as he traveled Elisha and Abbie Martyn's farm was (circa 1802) with his wife and children from larger than the present property. All the land Vermont to Canton. In 1809, he built his across the road from the Cooke property line, house on the property, most likely a log cabin. (Best Western site) nearly to the Canton Vil- A son, Daniel Socrates, was born the same lage line belonged to the Martyns. This in- year. Dan Judd died in 1836 at seventy-six

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 2 I years leaving a very feeble widow, Elizabeth. Grandpa farmed alone for a few years. Fi- It is not known to whom the property was sold nally, in 1946 my father Stanley answered the following her death. Thus, there is a gap in call to return to the farm. Dad had been work- land ownership between 1836 and 1842. With ing at GE in Schenectady, but the war was perseverance, I will find the missing piece! over and jobs were scarce. Mom had always Getting back to Abbie and Grandpa, it lived near the city, thus the move to the farm is recorded that Abbie Martin sold the 53.5 with its North Country winters was quite an acres to Grandpa Thompson on October 12, adjustment for her. 19 17 for $1.00. However, Larry remembers A few years earlier, Grandpa had pre- Grandpa saying he paid $100 an acre, prob- pared a tenant house. It had been a Seventh ably as a land contract. Then, the elderly Day Adventist Church and was located on the woman moved to Jay Street, but Grandpa was edge of the village. Grandpa applied for a per- not to be alone for long. We are uncertain mit to cross the highway, but it was slow in how Grandpa met our Grandmother Carrie coming. Thus, he used his team to skid that Bacon, but assume they were introduced by house down the field and across the road. The one of his sisters, a classmate of Carrie's at permit arrived the next day. We lived in the the Potsdam Normal School. Carrie taught "little house" for four years. But, as our fam- at the Old Canton Grammar School for a time, ily increased from four to six, we switched but resigned in 1918 to be married. In those houses with Grandma and Grandpa. days it was not customary for a married Of course, the little house had been woman to teach. Besides, Grandma was modernized, and was quite comfortable. Mom needed to help with barn chores, take care of and Dad saw to that! Now, Dad was faced the children, and "keep house". Grandma with renovating a century-old farmhouse. I and Grandpa had three children. The oldest, remember as a little girl finding the woodshed Warren, was born in 19 19, Stanley (our fa- very spooky. The windows were covered with ther) in 1920, and Shirley in 1928. cobwebs and hadn't been washed in years. It Back when the horse was king, had an old plank floor, and the door creaked Grandpa was very influential in constructing when opened. Entering the kitchen, the first much of the grounds at St. Lawrence Univer- smell was the kerosene in the three burner sity. Aided by a wagon with a "bottom dump cook stove. The parlor was closed off by beau- box", he molded parts of the golf course and tiful French doors, and seldom used. Ornate contoured the fill around the university build- ash woodwork, supposedly cut off the south ings. He was also responsible for keeping the side of the present golf course, adorned each ice skating rinks clear of snow with the aid of room. Grandpa had shingled the farmhouse a horse-drawn scraper. When SLU decided in his spare time, taking five years to do it. to plant the "Avenue of the Elms", located But remember, he had two full-time jobs! between the golf course and the riding stables, Larry, as Grandpa's shadow, remem- it was Grandpa T. who put in the American bers going to the cattle auctions. Once, elm saplings. Of course, he was exhausted Grandpa spent $1800 for nine cows, just running the farm and working at SLU fulltime, freshened. The farm needed only two, but so he caught a nap whenever he could. His Gramp said, "We'll buy them all, fatten them team knew the way to the milk factory in up and sell seven." Grandma was so mad Potsdam so, wrapped in a heavy blanket, she wouldn't let them go to another auction Grandpa often leaned against the warm milk that year. cans and caught a few winks along the way. Dad was as ambitious as his father. Of In the early years, it was evident, given course, the milk check had to be split, and Warren's love of farming, he would take over with six of us, he felt the need to find addi- the farm eventually. However, he died at tional ways to make money. An electrician twenty in an automobile accident. So, by trade, he wired houses part time and drove

22 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 school bus for Canton Central School. Mom night,but was afraid of the bull. Dad told had her cake decorating business and worked her he was harmless and to "just swear at in the school cafeteria for several years, until him". One evening, the bull became bellig- David was born. I was 23 by the time my baby erent. She swore, but he bellowed, tearing brother was born and had been married three up the ground. Mom panicked and ran with years! the bull in pursuit. Dad heard her screams, Dad soon realized that he could sell milk grabbed a pitch fork, and rescued her. As right out of the milk house. The milk inspec- can be imagined that was the last day our tor came regularly and said ours was the mother went out to get the cows alone. An- cleanest stable in the North Country. The barn other time, we were playing in the pasture. was swept and limed daily, and grit was put The boys began taunting Mr. Bull, and he down so the cows wouldn't slip. The men wore chased us into the tool house. That bull kept clean coveralls every night. At one time Dad us in the tool house for several hours, snort- had about twenty milk customers. We'd be ing and circling. Finally, he got tired of the finishing supper, when they'd drive in. The game, and we escaped. stable became the gathering place of many As 4Hers, we often hosted the ice folks: George Hudson, Bill Denhoff, Bob Ames, cream socials in our front yard. Larry re- Bill Paul, Dick Laraby, Willard Besaw, Bill Pa- members hand-cranking the old ice cream risian, and Frank Thorbahn. All came for milk; maker, so we'd offer the best ice cream. Once, most stayed to talk. Dad sold two quarts for a we had a wedding and reception at the home- quarter, the price escalating to thirty cents by stead. Grandma's brother, Uncle Harlie the time the dairy was sold in 1966. Dad be- brought the wedding cake in the trunk of his gan work as an electrician at Potsdam College car. You guessed it! The jack fell on the Jan. 17, 1967. wedding cake, and cake was handed to Mom Our house was usually a center of ac- to fuc. (As if she didn't have enough to do, tivity. My friends at the Grammar School loved getting the house, children and food ready to come out to play, because there was so for HIS wedding.) That was her first wed- much to do. We played in the haymow, skated ding cake to decorate. She soon became well- in the field by the Evergreens, and had known for making cakes for every occasion sleepovers in the bunkhouse. Dad built our and had more customers than she could keep playhouse of used lumber as the Cooke house up with. (We loved baking day, because we across the road was torn down. As soon as would come home from school to the extra school was out, Larry and Dan moved out to cake crumbs and frosting.) One day, a call the bunkhouse for the summer. They recall came from the White House. It was Vice Dad waking them up at 6:00 to get a load of President Mondale ordering a birthday cake hay, if there was no dew. for his daughter Eleanor, a student at SLU. In summer, the cows were driven across I remember the after-prom parties at the railroad tracks to the upper pasture. When our house. It seems everyone from the prom I was little, I remember following the cows, and came for at least a little while. Alcohol drink- gleefully walking barefoot in the fresh cow pies. ing wasn't an issue for most of us, but once, Of course, I was scolded for that. Often, after I remember Grandpa coming to the door with the cows were secured in the other pasture, an empty bottle found in the driveway. Mom we would wait for the train, so we could wave assured him that there had been no drink- to the engineer. If we timed it right, we could ing, but she usually didn't argue with the wave to all of the people on the Beeliner, too. patriarch. Only one time do we remember Once, Larry opened both gates at the same Mom standing her ground to him. It was a time. As the first whistle blew, the cows scat- couple of days before my wedding. Grandpa tered on the tracks. Luckily, not one was hit. and Dad always opened up the manure pile For awhile, Mom went after the cows at right after the haying was finished in August.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 23 Aerial view of' Tl~on~psonFar171

That way, they could spread it on the fields at station wagon, hit the tracks, and bottomed the other farm. Mom did NOT let them open out. Friends towed him to the fixit shop and the pile until the next week! Larry used body filler to stop the leak in the When Larry and Rick were teens, their radiator. Mom woke up as twelve to fifteen hobby was racing cars around the field where cars drove in the yard! When Reggie drove the P&C is. At first, Dave Thorbahn, Marshall past their window, taking me home, he would Weeks, and Larry would race their cars thirty coast from the hospital into the driveway, so to forty miles an hour around the bumpy my parents wouldn't hear the "Hollywoods". track, with a couple friends on the running Grandpa had moved the old barn out boards, until a rear spring broke, and Larry back and in 1929 built the barn that still rolled his '49 Dodge over and over. Once, two stands behind the house. Other farmers Ford V-8s were driven into the stable, where laughed at his design but later agreed that it the mufflers were taken off. You can only is one fine structure. The elm for the rafters imagine how scared the cows were! Later, was hauled from the other farm, three miles my brothers had a "fix it" shop in the old away. Grandpa bought the additional 200 chicken coop out back of the barn, and often acres on the Brewer and Cowan-Mansion accommodated their friends. Once, A1 Roads for a song. The farm had been aban- Romoda raced down Gypsy Lane in his father's doned for awhile, so there was much brush

24 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 and rock to be removed before it could be will, as soon as they flare up enough so I can hayed. Four of us built homes on this prop- see 'em!" erty, and Larry and David still own most of Grandpa was a champion at '"turningn. this land. This was a competition of strength, similar to It was great fun riding up the other arm wrestling only using a broom handle or a farm for a load of hay. Mom always drove the pitch fork. According to Larry, men often hay truck through the winrows, while Dad and challenged our grandfather, but he always fin- Grandpa used the pitchforks to secure the ished a winner. That is until one day in his load. The truck was large and held a good seventies; he was beaten for the first time. size load of hay. Mike Barkley, a blacksmith Apparently, Jim Reichart walked into the on Miner Street, built the bracing for the rack. stable, picked up a broom handle and chal- One time, on our return trip to the barn, as lenged Grandpa. The two men faced each we were all perched up on top of the large other; the younger man easily "turned" the load, the wind took a handful of hay, and blew elder. Grandpa remarked, "Ya know, you're it through the open window of a State the first man ever to do that!" Trooper's car. Of course, the young trooper There are many more stories that could stopped us and tried to give the men a hard be told, but another time. As you can imag- time, charging that we were overloaded. ine, nostalgia is healthy. We were proud farm- Grandpa asserted, "Well, Chummy, you'd bet- ers; not wealthy by any means. Nonetheless, ter get yer tape measure out, 'cause we're le- we had plenty to eat, a loving household, and gal! Furthermore, if you find we're over, I'll always felt secure. That was the good life, as eat every inch!" Sheepishly, the officer got my brothers and I all agree. Grandma and back in his car and left. After the hay was Grandpa, and Mom and Dad are all gone now. unloaded, Grandma always had a pitcher of However, we have many fond memories to lemonade ready for us. Sometimes, we'd have carry us long after the homestead is gone. a swim at the Old Sandbanks after the last load, and stop for an ice cream cone at Johnnie Bushaw's. Grandpa T. loved to reminisce. In his twilight years, when the emphysema was getting the best of him, his greatest passion was sitting under his favorite pine tree in the yard, telling stories. My husband Reg and brother Larry recall many "Grandpa Tales". Reg loves to recite Grandpa T.'s stories of summertime work at Cowan Mansion, probably about 1906. Grandpa's job was to hand mow the acres of lawn at the mansion. As told to Reg, he would begin on Monday, mow all week with a non-gas push mower, and just get all of the lawns finished on Saturday night in time for his day off. Then, of course, he had to start again on Monday! Until he became ill, Grandpa smoked a pipe. Once, when we were all at the little house for Sunday dinner, a few sparks flew out of the bow. Grandma scolded, "Elmeron! Elmeron! Stamp out those sparks on the rug!" Gramp answered, "Yup, I

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 Rensselaer Falls, "the other village in town" By Sally White Hartman

The Falls

This ballad was written for the Sesquicentennial Celebration in 1989 by Barbara Heller Rogers in honor of the founding of our village in 1839.

My Great-Grandpa was a Methodist And a man who always did his best - He helped to build a church here. The Christmas after he was gone, my Grandpa spoke at length About his dad - the great foundation of strength. And how the Falls would tower - the country like a steeple if only We had more people. ..like him.

My Grandpa's name was William But he always went by Bill / he worked his lifetime at the mill. And when we laid him in his grave. The eulogy his foreman gave said he was a steady lot - always gave more than he got; We could've used a few more.. ..like him.

The summer brought us baseball And our games out on the island / were the best of all. People came from everywhere, and the uniforms we used to wear looked like the pros - they're in the attic somewhere. The Falls team was the best around- You know it sure would mean. A lot to see the old.. ..home team.

The bridges and the baseball games, The faces and the names / they all have changed. After 150 years there's a lot to talk about. I don't know where to start - along with memories in our hearts, There's still so much undone; We all must leave our mark - make this the place to start.

@Aardvark Records 1989

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 hardship of traveling to Plattsburgh, the then County Seat of Clinton County, within which the ten townships were included. The "peti- tioners humbly pray, that a county may be set off upon the aforesaid river."' The river being the St. Lawrence River, hence St. Lawrence County. The ten original towns and numbers included Cambray - changed to Louis- ville(# 1), Stockholm(#2), Potsdam(#3), Madrid(#4), Lisbon(#5). Canton(#6), DeKalb (#7), Oswegatchie (#8), Hague - changed to Morristown (#9), and Gouverneur (#lo) all as part of the Macomb purchase circa 1787. Due to property transfer, in 1795, areas of the Canton and Lisbon township were sold to Stephen Van Rensselaer. Josiah Ogden Hoffman, and Richard Harrison, and on January 21, 1805, Hoffman, by deed, re- leased to Van Rensselaer his interest in the two towns(of Lisbon and Cant~n)~.On Sep- tember 13, 1836 Stephen Van ~ensselakr "conveyed all his estatk in these towns to his

- son Henrv Van Ren~selaer."~The land was Stephen Van Kensselaer describedas "mile square of the Znd range in oday, in 2005, Rensselaer Falls is an the Town of Cant~n."~This was the birth of Temerging community, still under village the future village of Rensselaer Falls. government and ranking as "the other village" Near the Village is a natural canal, in the Town of Canton. The village has a con- which forms so striking a feature of the coun- sistent population, around 350 more or less, try,5joining the Oswegatchie and the Grasse or as the locals say, "there is one resident for rivers. Navigable for small boats, the canal every day of the year'" Our Fire and Rescue joined the mighty Oswegatchie and and en- Department is highly respected and the chanting Grasse Rivers. It became a high- Firemen's Auxiliary, in addition to all the vol- way to mills by the pioneers. This channel unteer work they do, has the "best Turkey is six miles long, and from 5- 10 and even 25 Dinner" on the last Saturday of September rods wide, with a descent of three feet to- every year. The village has several unique busi- wards the Oswegatchie. It runs through an nesses and the surrounding area is a Mecca alluvial flat, of about 4500 acres, covered by for all of those who love nature. a forest of black ash and soft maple, which Indian Creek Nature Center within the has hitherto been too wet to cultivate, but is Upper & Lower Lakes Wildlife Refuge is just now in the process of re~laiming.~The outlet out of town, and there are fishing and hunt- on the Oswegatchie had been closed, and ing spots within minutes. The Oswegatchie Henry Van Rensselaer directed that a canal River is the lifeblood of the community. The be cut along the bank to below the dam, by river flows through the village and is really which water is expected to be lowered about where our story begins in 1839. four feet, the purpose being to drain the flats Let's go back to February gth, 1802, just north of the settlement. It cost about when a petition was received by the New York $6000. The outlet on Grasse river has long State Assembly, which made reference to the since been c10sed.~

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 27 A St. Lawrence County map of Rensselaer Falls, ca.

28 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 "Grasse River (Ni-kent-si-ake) full of by Rensselaer Falls and finally the Village of large fishes or where the fishes live--In former Rensselaer Falls. The village was established times this name was peculiarly applicable. in 19 12, with incorporation and the first Before dams and saw wills were erected, elected official called President was Clarence salmon and other fish were taken in the great- Sunderland. est abundance, as far up as Russell. In En- They first built the forge on the west glish the name was suggested by the grass bank of the river followed by a saw mill built meadows near its mo~th."~ by John Shull Jr., an agent of Henry Van Oswegatchie (Oswegatchee) (Swe-kat- Rensselaer. There was abundant waterpower si),is supposed to be a corrupted Huron word from the river due to "a fall of six feet"". Forges meaning "black ~ater".~ and the accompanying facilities were built by Near the north-west corner of the town, 1839, the firm Tate, Chaffee & Co. started the on the Oswegatchie River, and 11 miles dis- fires to smelt iron by the "direct from the ore" tant from Ogdensburg, with which place it method using the Adirondack Bloomery pro- communicates by plank road, is the Village cess. Imagine the activity about the forge, of Rensselaer Falls, which began in 1839, by the waterwheel turning, bellows blowing air the erection of a forge, by Tate, Chaffee & Co.1° to make the fires burn hot, smoke pouring Until the establishment of the Post Office in forth, men sweating, scurrying about loading 1851, the hamlet was called Tateville after the forge with ore and flux, tapping the pots Robert Tate and then Canton Falls followed for white hot molten iron, wagons coming and going. It must have been a bustling scene.12

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 29 The ore from the Tate mine in Hermon social organizations, business, and com- had to be hauled to Cooper's Falls, across the merce. The community was growing. bridge and then down the west side of the Of the firsts, the first stone gristmill Oswegatchie River, a distance of at least 15 was built for Henry Van Rensselaer in 1842. miles, over very poor roads (if any). Bog ore It burned and was rebuilt in 1875 by Rose & was hauled from Lisbon Township and prob- Sons. The stone mill burned again in 19 13. ably the limestone for flux from De Kalb. Wood The two sons of Benjamin Morrison rebuilt could be obtained locally, but if charcoal was the mill on the original foundation. Prior to used, earthen kilns were employed. Bar iron building, Morrisons hired a wrecking firm that was produced could be sold to black- from Ogdensburg to bring their equipment smiths and foundries in neighboring commu- in by rail to level the mill to its original stone nities, such as Heuvelton, Ogdensburg, Can- foundation. The structure was constructed ton, and Cooper's Falls.13 In 1845, the Tates from beech and hemlock trees from a woodlot lost the Hermon mine at a Sheriffs sale. Henry owned by Morrison outside the village. The van Rensselaer was the highest bidder. That mill cost $10,000 to build and they paid the same year the forges were leased to J.W. carpenters a dollar a day. It was completely Browne for three years. Solon and Ransom electrified. The structure was covered with Dexter purchased land in 1848,just upstream tin siding and still remains to this day. from the forge for their sawmill. Morrison expanded the operation to include Early setters in the vicinity include the selling coal. On the grounds is a Buffalo scale family surnames of Ghering, Godell, and a series of coal sheds. The mill is now Hammond, Hanna, Herring, Johnson, Randall, owned by Kyle David Hartman Sanderlin, Sharp, Shull, and Walroth. Jesse Brunnell was the first miller, Once the basic needs were taken care F.F. Rathbone was the first shoemaker. Caleb of, other needs followed like churches, schools, Johnson was the first blacksmith, with his

30 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 shop being just above the bridge on the east The School dates back to 1842 when side of the river. The first tavern was built for Robert Tate gave land for a school to be built. Van Rensselaer and kept by John Shull Jr., The land was located on Rensselaer Street and the first store was kept by Thomas across from Veteran's Memorial Park. The first Leonard, and then J.W. Browne at the site of story of the school appeared in a 1930 edi- River House. Dr. T Murdock was the first tion of the first school newspaper called "'The physician and remained in the Village for 30 Chatterbox" in which it was learned that early years. tools were Towne's Reader, Baker's Speller, a The first hotel was built for Henry Van slate and a notebook made from foolscap pa- Rensselaer on the corner of Front and per, cut and tied with a string. They also had Rensselaer Streets in 1852 and burned in a lead pencil. The affectionately called "Little 1903 along with the First store. It was rebuilt, Red Schoolhouse" was built in 1859 on land the house first, and then the brick building, given by Van Rensselaer on the corner of State which is now a rental apartment house. The and Rensselaer Streets.'"n 1863 there was Rensselaer Falls Burying Ground Association a need for more room, so a two-room school was incorporated in April 15th1852 and was was erected. In 1882 a two-story frame build- reorganized and incorporated as the ing was constructed with two classrooms on Rensselaer Falls Cemetery Association in the first floor and a large room on the second 1875.14 The first depot was constructed in floor. The school was completely destroyed by 1862 boasting in its heyday eight-passenger fire on February 2, 1903. It is interesting to trains and several freight cars per day. Un- note here that there were several private fortunately the railroad station closed in 1954 schools in the Village, and after the fire, but and passenger service was reduced. The before the new school was rebuilt, some of tracks were taken up in 1986. the students would meet in these select

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 31 schools. The beginning of the 20th century in the new school in the first grade. Amy found the village bustling with a new school Norton was the teacher, I remember that. I being designed by architects S.D.P. Williams can see her writing. She had a big Waterman and J.P. Johnston of Ogdensburg. The new fountain pen, and I was charmed by the pen school was built with fire escapes; the build- going so fast. I wished I could write fast like ing measured 40 x 60 feet annexed with a 15- that."" foot square making an L shape. It was two sto- The Rensselaer Falls Union School ries high and included five rooms, library and was used until 1968 as a K-4 school and then halls. The walls were painted plaster with Geor- a community center. The structure was razed gia pine wainscoting and tin ceilings. Bonnie in 1972 and is now replaced by the St. Denny tells me that fire drills often became Rensselaer Falls Fire Hall. Due to central- playtime when students would line up to slide ization with the Canton School District, the down the tube fire escape. They would run up last Rensselaer Falls High School commence- the stairs and ride down again, often to amuse- ment was June 1945. The Union School be- ment of their teachers. The students really came a Grammar School with grades K-8 and soared when they took the wax paper, which students remained there from 1947- 1968 wrapped their lunch sandwhich and, slipped with 7thand gthgrade students transferred it underneath before they slid. "It was the best to the Canton building in 1954. The school ride ever," shares Bonnie. census averaged from 90- 100 students. The "I (Glenn Streeter) started school in the first graduating class held its commencement Falls in 1903 in a little house next to Claude exercises on June 17, 1886. In 1968 a 5- Palmer's (Author's note: School was held in acre parcel was purchased on Congress homes until the new school was completed.) Street from Morrison Dowe and Carl St. We sat on little wooden benches, a kindergar- Denny and on the same spot that a log cabin ten, you might say. That fall I went to school school had stood in the 1800's. On this par-

32 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 33 cel a new modern school was built for grades morial Park), in 1858. The church was later K-4. In 1976 a vote was taken, with a very small sold. The current brick church was built and margin, and the school was closed. The prop- dedicated September 16, 1868. The Meth- erty was eventually sold to United Helpers odist Congregation combined with the Con- and is currently an Intermediate Care Facil- gregational congregation in 1954. The union ity. dissolved in 2003-2004 and the Congo's gave back their charter and the Methodists con- The Churches tinued to make improvements, which had be- In 1842 a Congregational church was gun in the 1980's when a Methodist restora- formed followed by a society in 1847, the Rev- tion committee became active. Members of erends Parsons and Goreham Cross having the committee were Schuyler & Fern been the founding clergy. The first church Alverson, Carmen Dowe, John & Vera Hanna, building was the Congregational Church, built Kyle & Sally Hartman, Mildred Mayhew, Ruth in 1848 The church was dedicated January Moore, Connie Palmer, Clifford and Ruth 1 1, 1849. A rededication ceremony was held Poor, Bonnie St. Denny, Jessie Wainwright, on February 16, 1876. In 1879, after repairs Charles Palmer, Claude Palmer, and Ben were made, a parsonage was constructed. The Childs. building is now owned by the Rensselaer Falls Methodist Church improvements Historical Society, Inc. , and is the future home have included work on the basement, land- of a local museum. scaping donated by Mrs. Irene Alverson, reno- The Methodist Church organized in vation of the backroom by Wayne & Connie 1853 and was incorporated November 11, Parow, and a large cross over the altar made 1858. The first Methodist Church building was from black walnut wood donated by Kyle situated on Pioneer Park (now Veteran's Me-

34 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 David Hartman and placed in loving memory Childs. Here is a shortened version of that of Sandie Rickard by her family. tour starting with the site now occupied by McAdoo's Market. Businesses The business district starting at State In 1908 there was one public telephone Street and Rensselaer Street on the Canton in the drug store owned by Hollis Doty. Later side includes Creighton's Hall, complete with a telephone was installed in the McBride a pool hall, and a blacksmith shop in the rear, Store. A home telephone service was supplied the Congregational Church; Merrill Craig's and operated by Webster Wainwright and his Grocery Store; Doty's Drugs; McBride's; telephone office was in what was later to be Simpson's, with a milliner upstairs; Parson's known as the Sands Hotel, then the River- including a a shoe cobbler's shop afterward side Hotel. The same year as incorporation of which followed "BoodnJenkin's barber shop; the Village of Rensselaer Falls circa 19 12, the and it eventually became a jewelry shop Women's Improvement Society, under the di- owned by McKee; J.J. Doty's clothing store rection of Mrs. Grant Crysler, began estab- and upstairs the Masonic Hall; and the Post lishing sidewalks throughout the Village. Re- Office with Tom McKelvy as postmaster. cently the Village Board has continued this Back up the street across from the Con- work with the restoration of several new side- gregational Church on the Heuvelton side was walks by a grant procured with the help of Chris McCoy's undertaking parlors; a shoe Senator Wright. cobbler's; and then George Hinsdale's store 1 encourage you to get a copy of "The featuring overalls, shoes, and groceries. Fallsn sesquicentennial booklet to read first Starting at the intersection of hand the tour of "Rensselaer Falls Business Rensselaer and Front Streets, towards the Establishments circa 19 15", an oral history Heuvelton side, the business district included by Glenn Streeter documented by Steve a brick building rebuilt by Charlie and Elmer

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 35 McBride after the wood frame hotel burned the bridge was the N.A. Bockus Hardware & in 1903. The house to the left of the brick Furniture Store currently the 'railroad station structure was rebuilt prior to the brick build- replica' built by Kyle David Hartman in 1985 ing after the fire and became a store "Burt known as River House Wares & Restoration. Perry's Meat Shop" and residence. Next there was a dance hall and later a movie theater Sports called U-No-Us Hall built by Bockus. Other There is a long tradition of Sport in the shops which were located down the street Falls. The late Sam McAdoo wrote in The were Chet Wainwright's Store; Freddie Falls, 1989 that "sports and athletic endeav- Heptonstall's little meat shop; and the Nell ors have always played a major role in local Bockus home. Crossing King Street you would history." Sam continued, "Interest in base- find Sam Orr's livery shop. Further down on ball peaked during the 30's. A County league the triangular property was the site of the was formed with teams as far away as original Rensselaer Falls Train Depot. The Gouverneur, Russell, and Morristown. The railroad tracks were pulled up in 1986. Falls won its share of games. During this era, Across the street, just beyond the old home games were played on the "Island", an gristmill (Morrison Mill) was a wagon shop ideal place, complete with bleachers, and even owned by Tom Madill and then back toward

Inside one of Rensselaer Falls' stores

36 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 a concession stand. A volunteer with a boat "Athletics is one of the best ways I know to would retrieve balls hit into the river."18 approach the supernat~ral."~~-The crowd was DATELINE RENSSELAER FALLS: there to honor the Rensselaer Falls High March 18, 1878 The Red Stockings B.B. Club School basketball team, St. Lawrence Valley of this place held their meeting Saturday night, League Champions for 1944-45. Rensselaer as per adjournment of last meeting. Dr. J. M. Falls had a perfect season, and individual McMonagle was elected chairman and A.W. scoring statistics showed Paul Stiles was high Dexter recording secretary. At that meeting, a scorer with 134 points, followed by Keith constitution was drawn up and the Red Stock- Stiles with 120 points. ings were "determined to have a club that will be second to none in St. Lawrence County." The Fire Department DATELINE RENSSELAER FALLS: Sep- The first meeting of the Fire Depart- tember 12, 1882 The Red Stockings go to Phila- ment took place March 3 1, 1925 with 32 delphia today to play the Watertown club for Charter Members. the Championship of St. Lawrence & Jefferson In 1925 a small building and new Counties. home for the Fire Department was con- Rensselaer Falls had some good base- structed from a cement stone blocks made ball teams in its history but old timers will from a mold borrowed from Heuvelton by swear on a stack of Bibles that there never Charles McBride , a stone mason. The site was a team turned out by the village as good was originally Hinsdale's Store and now is as that team which copped the northern New the home of DG's Country Kitchen. That York championship 50 years ago. [Harold same year the road was paved to Heuvelton. Murphy Ogdensburg Newspaper]lg You should On April 29, 1930 Sam Dexter donated a read all about it in The Falls Revisited pub- windmill frame for the first bell. Originally it lished in 1995. The article ends with a descrip- was placed behind the fire hall and then in tion of the sizzling hot game of the 1880's and 1959 on top of the brick building on the cor- how the Rensselaer Falls boys won the north- ner of Rensselaer and Front Streets. The first ern New York championship 14-13 and earned Annual Firemen's Ball was held in 1932 in the silver ball and bat trophy which remained the Grange Hall when it was in the former U- in a jewelry store in Canton because no one No-Us Theatre. Blair's Island was used for had the money to pay the jeweler's inscription the first Field Day Ball Game. In 1936 the fee. In 1930, according to the article it was Grange and the Fire Department co-spon- still there in the jeweler's window. Wonder sored a Field Day including a parade, din- where it is now! ner, games, and an evening dance. There Around the turn of the century, a new was also a Youth Community Center can- high school opened the door for many success- teen which was cosponsored by the RFFD , ful teams, both in baseball and a new sport, Grange and Church. In 1947 an addition basketball. In the 1920's, girls basketball was was made to the fire hall for meetings, and introduced, and championship teams re- on May 15, 1947 an International Pumper s~lted.~ was delivered to the Fire Station, purchased In more recent years on June 5, 1936- by the Village taxpayers through bonding. In Akins Wainwright, 18-year-old Rensselaer 1955 a radio was installed in the Fire Sta- Falls High School pitcher completed 18 innings tion to assist in Mutual Aid. In 1958 all fire- of scoreless hurling when the Rensselaer Falls men voted to begin Fire School, and the de- team swamped the Edwards nine 14-0 at partment incorporated in 1959. Caroline Rensselaer Falls in an Adirondack League con- McBride gave the department the use of the test. brick building, and they remained there thir- Finally in 1945 at the Falls Sports Ban- teen years. The Firemen's Auxiliary was or- quet Father Harold J. Martin told a large crowd, ganized in 1961. In 1962 Edna Morrison

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 37 deeded the island by the falls to the Firemen. was formed to improve social and economic Bingo games began in 1970 and weekly games status of the American farmer. Sometimes were played using the Grange Hall building. known as a fraternal order of patrons of hus- In 1972 the Union School property was pur- bandry, the "P of H* was the organization's chased by the Fire Department and the school logo. was razed in 1972 and a 50 x 120' Atlantic The Rensselaer Falls Grange # 1038 or- steel structure was built on the site with the ganized in 1905. The meetings were held on breaking of ground on August 29, 1972. On the third floor of the Charles McBride build- June 30, 1979 the Fire Department burned ing on the corner of Rensselaer and Front the mortgage at a ceremony to celebrate pay- Streets. Here they had suppers and dances ing off $57,000 in 7 years. and some remember George Streeter, the Over the past few years, the depart- blind fiddler. Marion Jenkins - piano, and ment has developed to be one of the finest "Bood* Jenkins-banjo or drums. The Grange examples of volunteer services in both fire also had a store on the second floor for their fighting, and rescue. Recently the department members. It was difficult for the members to has added a dive team. climb the two flights of stairs and so the Trust- ees started looking for another hall around The Grange 1932. They bought the U-No-Us Hall from Wil- Following the Civil War the national liam Perry. Then around 1943 a fire began agricultural organization called the Grange in a restaurant beside the hall and both build-

38 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3. 2005 ings burned down. In 1944 they purchased sonry, as we know it today came into being Thomas Hardware and moved. This Grange some 800 years ago. The Fellowship Lodge # Hall burned down in 1945. After a year or so 794 was chartered in 1874 in Rensselaer of meeting in homes the Grange purchased a Falls. From 1874 until 1876 the Fellowship large two-story building from Everest Stiles and Lodge met in the Chapin Hotel. The Lura the Grange remained there until the Grange Chapter #324 Order of the Eastern Star re- received permission to sell the hall in 198 1 to ceived its charter. In 1909 the Fellowship Peter Longshore. This hall is still standing Lodge purchased a building from Lowell Hill. across from the Post Ofice, and is owned by The Lura Chapter Order of the Eastern Star Richard Fitzgerald. During its day, the Grange returned its charter to the Grand Chapter in hosted dances, bullhead suppers, roller skat- 1980. Fellowship Lodge #479 gave up its ing and allowed the Union School to use it's charter in 1986. The building is currently upper floor for athletic events. The Grange owned by Kevin Reynolds. under the direction of Clifford Poor erected street signs around the village. Rensselaer Falls at War--Military Service In recent years Schuyler Alverson and The Masons Don Hammond have worked on document- Freemasonry is one of the world's old- ing veterans' records of those from Rensselaer est and largest fraternal organizations.The Falls who have served our country. Of the word "Masonn means "Builder," and Freema- 127 men and boys from Rensselaer Falls area

% Parade in Rensselaer Falls

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 39 who served in the Civil War, 29 did survive Falls. The 2,800 acres displaced around the The boys and girls from Rensselaer twenty farms, ranging from the 600-acre farm Falls served in all theaters of action, yet of of Theron Stacy to the 125-acre farm of Loren the 151 veterans in WWII, only Karl Farley McAdoo on which he had 30 cows. This was killed in action and Roderic Roca died in caused the landscape surrounding the Vil- a truck accident.23 Two men served in both lage to change drastically. WW I and WW 11; Harold Bagley, now buried We currently have a Girl Scout Troop in Kendrew Cemetery, and George Kinney, and there were Boy Scouts in the 1980's; in buried in the Rensselaer Falls Cemetery.24 1981 David G.A. Hance became an Eagle All veterans are honored in our Veter- Scout. In the 1990's the boys went on a trip ans' Memorial Park. The park hosts a gazebo to the Herkimer Diamond Mine, Howe Cav- and in the winter Santa Claus visits for a erns, and visited the Baseball Hall of Fame in month or so. Cooperstown. In reflection, there have been many Our Canton Free Library Branch is a obstacles to the growth of the Village of point of pride. A cement building was built in Rensselaer Falls over the years that followed 1955 for the library. Our library has been part that first settlement. Fire was one of the ma- of the Canton Free Library ever since 1947. jor natural foes, the river was yet another. Amish families moved in 1982 and con- As far back as 1894 on August 24that tinue to be active on farms around our vil- 7:30 p.m. a fire began in Dr. Bayley's Drug lage. Store and swept through midtown on Priscilla Amidon Tyler Hartman (18 17- Rensselaer Street; the great fire of 1903 took 2001), with the help of Kyle and Sally the first hotel and the first store; and you re- Hartrnan, opened her home in the Morrison call the aforementioned gristmill fire in 1913. Mill to local residents to begin the Rensselaer The library burned in 1925 and many early Falls Historical Society in 1985. The organiz- historical documents were lost. The Riverside ing group included Schuyler Alverson - Vice Hotel, which burned in 1984, was one of the President, Eunice Sheppard - Secretary, Fern most recent fires. Alverson - Treasurer, Trustees: Carolyn The river is relentless. The earliest mill Rounsaville, Carmen Dowe, Don Hammond. was taken by the river during a flood in the Over the first few years, as founding Presi- 1840's. Even today the Morrison Mill has to dent, Priscilla brought the group together to be constantly maintained due to spring flood- support several local initiatives. She helped ing where the river rises nearly 20 feet higher the group to incorporate in 1988 and she was than the summer river level. Homes on outer instrumental in organizing the Sesquicenten- West Front Street have been flooded and resi- nial Celebration for the Falls including the dents awaken at night with ice chunks hit- publication "The Falls" in 1989. ting their house. The Sesquicentennial Celebration In 1962 The Conservation Department began on June 23*, 1989 with a greeting by acquired land on the Lost Nation Road, called Mayor Margaret Hance, a ceremony and his- the South Road, chunking large areas off of torical display. June 27ththere was an open some of the grand farms belonging to original house at the Oswegatchie River House Mu- settlers like the Nelson Hammond estate dat- seum and Art School with a pottery demon- ing back to 1839. Much of the farmland that stration by Arnie Roberts. June 2gththere was Van Rensselaer sought to drain in the 1830's a demonstration of rocketry by the Boy is now a New York State Wetlands. Scouts. June 30th Schuyler Alverson gave a In 1966 Corning Glass Works bought review of the events and Merlin Childs and more farms at $300 per acre. These farms the Good Timers provided music for a street were on the DeKalb Junction side of the Can- square dance. July lst there was a parade ton Township and the Village of Rensselaer and craft sales, with an ice cream social in

40 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 the afternoon with Barb Heller, folksinger. Hough, 281 Gone are the days of the community band, but ' Hough, 281 there was music that day. On Sunday July Znd a Hough, 179- 180 there was a dedication of the plaque and an Hough, 281 afternoon performance by the Hammond lo Hough. 281 Kitchen Band. " Hartman, 4 l2 Hartman, 4.5 l3 Hartman, 5 The Bridge l4 Hartman, 8 The story of our bridge reflects the his- l5 Hartman, Sally White, Ed. The Falls Revisited, tory of the Falls. Rensselaer Falls Historical Society, Rensselaer The original bridge was a covered Falls, NY 13680, 1995, 2 wooden bridge. l6 Hartman, The Falls Revisited, 3 The wooden bridge was replaced by iron l7 Hartman, 23 in 1895. la Hartman The Falls Revisited 34 The iron bridge was replaced with a ce- l9 Hartman, 45.46 ment base in 1930. 20 Hartman, The Falls Revisited, 4 1 21 Hartman, The Falls Revisited , 16 The cement was refurbished with a 22 Hartman, The Falls Revisited , 23 wood base in 1988. 23 Hartman, The Falls Revisited , 23 And so it goes on, in a cycle of ups and 24 Hartman, The Falls Revisited, 25 downs. The bridge is again on the list to be replaced. Will the bridge remain as it is, a Bibliography 1930's steel arch bridge, or be redesigned into Gates, Curtis. Ed. Our County and it's people. A a low guard rail bridge like the one in the Vil- memorial record of St. Lawrence County, New lage of Canton, and hamlet of Morley? York, D. Mason & Co., Published 1894. Hartrnan, Sally White, Ed. The Falls, Rensselaer Notes Falls Historical Society, Inc, Rensselaer Falls, Hough, Franklin B. A.M., M.D. History of St. NY 13680, 1989 Lawrence and Franklin Counties, New York, 1853 Hartman, Sally White, Ed. The Falls Revisited, reprinted Regional PublishingCompany, Baltimore Rensselaer Falls Historical Society, Inc 1970,205 Rensselaer Falls, NY 13680, 1995 Hough, 245 Hough, Franklin B. A.M., M.D. History of St. Hough, 245 Lawrence and Franklin Counties, New York, Hartman, Sally White, Ed. The Falls, Rensselaer 1853 reprinted Regional Publishing Company, Falls Historical Society, Inc, Rensselaer Falls, NY Baltimore 1970 13680,1989,14 Hough, 281

-- Buildirig the replacement bridge, Rensselaer Falls

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 4 1 Jerusalem Corners: Bypassed By Route 1 1 and History By Ashley Elliott (Canton High School -- May 7, 2004)

[Editor's Note: This was a winning your favorite goods were scattered through- essay in the 2004 contest sponsored by the out the store. In the 1930's, you could buy Canton Unitarian-Universalist Church] an ample loaf of bread for 9 cents, cheese for ften times, we do not question change 38, ivory soap for 5, candy for 5, stamps for 0because it does not directly affect us. 2, and shoes anywhere from 4 to 6 dollars.' However, when we do not challenge and in- However, one would not find any alcohol lin- vestigate these alterations, we fail to recog- ing the shelves, due to prohibition. The floors nize important aspects of our history, for they were wooden and the lighting was dim, but become buried by recent events. This is evi- the structure still provided a lively atmosphere dent when studying the reconstruction of US for the town people. Having over one hun- Highway 1 1, in the 1930's, and how it forever dred regular customers for whom they kept changed Jerusalem Corners (Eddy). personal records in a ledger, they were famil- Jerusalem Corners, located six miles iar with the community and its people. It is south of Canton, was a charitable close knit more than likely that most of those one hun- community. Staple and Fancy Groceries dred regular customers knew each other well. served as its grocery store, post office, gas For it is said, there was also a social aspect to station, dance hall, and community center all the store. My Grandfather vividly recalls men in one location. It was located on what used gathering at the store as they waited to go to be old Route 11, but is now the Old State across the street to the one-room schoolhouse Road. It was run by Lawrence and Ester Elliot, on voting day. Staple and Fancy Groceries my great grandparents. They had eight kids was clearly more than a store, for it created a running around to help with the upkeep! fellowship among community members. Having eight children in one home is an alto- A primary source of social interaction gether different concern about how the times within the community stemmed from the have changed. dance hall. The dance hall was located across Staple and Fancy Groceries greatly the length of the upper level. The shed in the varied in comparison to any grocery store we back yard provided accommodations for the have today, but was common in its day. To- dancers' horses. For the most part, dances day the idea of only having to travel to one were attended with the same intent as they building for all your needs and not make ten are today. Basically, dances served as a gath- sojourns all over town is ridiculous. How- ering place for young people to get together ever, I imagine you are beginning to think that and enjoy themselves. However, the music the old way of doing things was convenient of choice was different from what you might and logical. find at a local dance today. Local citizens Like clockwork, the milk train would would stage live music for the entertainment be rolling in and the egg train would be roll- of all. My Grandfather specified, "My ing out. The milk train provided milk for the Grandma would come over to play the fiddle."2 store to sell to the community. Also, Ester May aspects of the time period may be raised chickens and sent eggs off to New York held accountable for the store's success. But City to be purchased. Boxes and barrels of geography alone played a strong role in cre-

42 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 ating a lucrative business. US Highway 11 Although several other local busi- ran across the railroad tracks and past the nesses were struck by the "trickle down ef- store, causing a tremendous amount of traf- fect" of the stock maEket crash, Staple and fic. Travelers of all sorts would stop in for gas Fancy Groceries was also defeated by Route and a bite to eat, not to mention "bootleggers 1 1's new location. These circumstances continuing their run from Canada to New York would put any store out of business, no mat- Cit~."~This provided numerous customers to ter the quality. Unfortunately, Staple and go along with their regular one hundred or so. Fancy Groceries did fall to these roadblocks. Some things never change; the importance of Sadly, the store and its community have not location is one of them. been a prominent aspect of history. The de- However, State Highway was rerouted tails surrounding small communities become in sections and finally completed in 1931 4. The lost. However, these small communities new highway would no longer meander, nor should be recognized. For collectively, these would it run across the railroad tracks. Al- small territories are what make up the big though the detour was trivial in regards to the picture in the end. flow of traffic, it was detrimental to Staple and The end to Staple and Fancy Grocer- Fancy Groceries, for no longer would anyone ies symbolizes an end of an era. This would outside the remote community take advantage be an end to a time when communities were of the store's facilities. They were losing an interwoven with the same purpose. No longer enormous amount of business. would townships gather at one sole location Also, there were national issues respon- for their every need. Some people say small sible for the decline of Staple and Fancy Gro- town values have been pushed aside by tech- ceries. In 1929 the stock market crashed, lead- nology. We have become industrialized, and ing to the Great Depression. "The Depression in most cases, efficient. The world is cer- severely tested the idea that individuals were tainly a different place, but are we any bet- in control of their own future^."^ This quota- ter off? tion is exemplary because the aftermath of depression was inevitable for Lawrence and Bibliography Ester. They did all they could, but people were A preserved store ledger kept by Lawrence simply not spending money. To make their Elliott financial status worse, they continued to keep David R. Elliott personal bills in the ledger; money they knew Mary Elliott Pat Whitney, State DOT, Ogdensburg would never be returned. A History of the United States: American voices. Scott Foresrnan, c1995.

St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 Mystery Photo

This is a post card from the collection of the Potsdarn Public Museum. The Museum has no information on it and would to know the identity of the group being marched down Main Street and when this might have occurred.

Last Mystery Photo Identified The photo is a house at 1007 Buck Road, Madrid. Bill Day and his son Robert live there now. Four Fisher brothers came from Scotland in 1819-20 and built log cabins, then stone houses made of limestone from Brandy Brook. The four houses still stand and are lived in.

This info came from Reg Chester, Wayne Day, Floyd Beswick, and Ruth Walker.

44 St. Lawrence County Historical Association Quarterly L:3, 2005 THE OLIVER LAW FIRM ------Reach readers Cathleen E. O'Horo interested Roger B. Linden Francis P. Cappello Michelle H. Ladouceur in heritage & history 117 Main Street Canton, NY 13617 by placing an Tel.: 3 1 5-386-4595 Fax: 3 1 5-379-1240 ad here!

St. Lawrence County Moving? Historical Association would YOU like to have your Hours Quarterly follow you? If you're planning to be out of the SLCHA Office, SLCHA Archives area and would like to have unin- & Silas Wright House terrupted service on your membership, please phone, e-mail or drop us a note with your seasonal ad- Open Tuesday - Saturday, Noon - 4:00 p.m. dress. Friday Noon - 8 p.m. (and by Appointment) Admission Fees: St. Lawrence County Historical Association at the Silas Wright House Museum Free 3 East Main Street, PO Box 8 Canton, New York 136 17 (315) 386-8133 Archives Members - Free fax (315)386-8134 Children - Free e-mail: [email protected] College Students - $2.50 www.slcha.org General Public - $5 .OO Return Service Requested PO Box 8 U.S. Postage Paid Canton, NY 13617 Permit No. 21

Non-Profit Organization