TIMEOUT.COM/LONDON November 10 ñ 23 2020 No. 2600

Forward thinker Rina : the pop star who bloomed in lockdown

ILLUSTRATION: GEO LAW; GREENWICH PARK: ANNA HEATH/PICFAIR; COCKTAIL: NIGHTJAR Barred Barred from bars for a bit? No probs, delivery. Drink this: you’ll feel better are bottling their cocktails for home profligacy! This year, though, spend some of London’s greatest mixers Shoppy waters your cash at a local independent All hail the season of consumer who Locktails really needs your support PAGE 38 PAGE 35 Inside This issue ofTimeOut This issue in notimeatall 7 City life

27 Things to Do 12 Global briefing 16 Rina Sawayama 24 Great DIY meal kits 26 Exclusive offers Immersive Immersive gaming, indie reads, podcasts and Mrs T going toe-to-toe with Her Maj. Your home entertainment awaits…

35 Food & Drink 38 Love Local 40 Escapes 42 Time In Time Time In

PAGE 42 FEATURES AND REGULARS 3 flipping awesome in autumn, so go flipping awesome go inautumn,so Yeah, it’s looks cold.ButLondon get misty andmellowly misty get fruitful Get out, right out! is taking place under lockdown: allow us The whole of this year’s Festival of Light PAGE 29 to provide some online inspo

Diwali Time Out London November 10 –232020Time PAGE 28

Hello, Advertising 7813 6000, [email protected] Circulation London [email protected] Global Editor-in-Chief Caroline McGinn London Editor Joe Mackertich Deputy Editor/Chief Sub Editor Chris Waywell Joe Mackertich Deputy Chief Sub Editor London Editor Sarah Cohen @j_mackertich Features Kate Lloyd (Editor) News & City Life Isabelle Aron (Editor) Events Katie McCabe (Editor), Alexandra Sims One day soon, London will return to normal. Bus seats won’t (Deputy Editor) Film Phil de Semlyen be covered up. Our theatre stages will be full of actors doing (Global Editor) Culture Eddy Frankel and bad American accents in Arthur Miller productions. Waiters Andrzej Łukowski Editorial Assistant won’t wear plastic welding masks. Rappers will rap, guitarists Django Zimmatore will shred and DJs will pretend to twiddle the cross-fader. Global Commercial Editor Stephen Farmer Comedians will once again be able to die on their arse in front Global Branded Content Editor Rose Johnstone of ­ people above a pub in Soho. You won’t wince every time Commercial Designer people on TV shake hands. Julia Robinson Commercial Copywriter George Blew I cannot tell you when this day will come. But come it will. Head of Digital Content Jordan Waller And in the meantime we make do with the quiet, semi- London Digital Director/ Drink Editor Laura Richards shuttered winter city we currently call home. We still have our Engagement Editor Sam Willis parks (best in the world, no contest), we still have bone-broth International Editor James Manning ramen delivered to our doors and, crucially, we still have each International Travel Editor Ellie Walker-Arnott other. London’s most valuable commodity is Londoners, and, International Commissioning Lord knows, those are not in short supply. Editor Huw Oliver Art Director Bryan Mayes Picture Desk Manager Ben Rowe So talk to each other. Talk to your friends. Talk to strangers. Photographer Andy Parsons Head of Production Talk to me, if you like (disclaimer: many people who Dave Faulkner Production, Admin and Sales know me would strongly advise against this). Support Katie Mulhern-Bhudia Our city is brilliant, our city is strong, and so are you. Commercial MD EMEA Lawrence Horne Advertising Sales Ian Tournes (Director), Natalie Reynolds, Juliet Grant, Banbha O’Hagan, Nesha Fleischer, James Hooper, Robyn Eldridge, Emma Myland Creative Solutions Three things you have to do in London Wayne Mensah (Director), THE EDITOR’S ESSENTIALS Charlie Liddington, Nicola Foxwell Project Management Junior Olokodana (Project Management Lead), Nicki Wymer, Zara Taylor MD Global E-commerce Minesh Shah Time Out Group CEO Julio Bruno

Cover Photograph Andy Parsons, styling Kate Iorga, make-up Hayley Mason, EAT this SHOP here SUPPORT this hair Tomi Roppongi. Photographed at the Patron is a little French restaurant Mighty Small is like a supermarket St Mungos has re-housed people Barbican Centre in Kentish Town. Its DIY option, of small foodie brands. It works with through the pandemic. Now it’s cold, Maison Patron, is lots of fun. FoodCycle, a charity that provides your donations mean even more. Get involved. free community meals. www.mungos.org/winter

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Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 4 Advertisement feature

Welcome to Page 5G! All in a day’s work FLYING TO WORK – Soon, working from home Office work medicine, too: a paramedic could could involve attending Sorry, but your days of wearing perform an ultrasound on a patient REALLY? pyjamas all day and simply turning from the ambulance, instantly meetings as a hologram. off the camera on work calls are transmitting information to the As you’ll learn from limited. Thanks to 5G’s huge leap in doctor who can prepare to treat Samsung’s 5G-focused data and speed, virtual offices can them – thereby saving precious Forget sweating your way become a reality – featuring you, minutes (and maybe even lives). to work on the Northern podcast ‘Whatever Next?’, in holographic form, examining 3D line. Flying taxis (known our working lives are about images of projects you’re working Firefighting as eVTOLs) are closer to to transform dramatically on with your colleagues. Your actual, Leap into a burning building, point becoming a reality than you real-life office will level up, too: the hose at the flames, save the might think. Major brands 5G-connected security cameras will day. That’s firefighting, right? Well, like Hyundai and Boeing allow for unmanned receptions, and yes… but 5G is about to make this are developing electric f you haven’t yet listened to heating and cooling systems will dangerous occupation a lot safer. taxis that could cruise at I‘Whatever Next?’, then strap automatically react to the weather. American company Qwake has altitudes of 1,000 feet and in for a wild ride, buddy. So far, created a 5G-enabled helmet with above at a speedy 180 Samsung’s fascinating 5G podcast, Medicine an in-built camera which sees more miles per hour. 5G will be hosted by Dr Hannah Fry and If there’s any field which demands effectively through thick smoke, crucial to ensure aircraft-to- comedian Suzi Ruffell, has delved supreme precision, it’s surgery. then instantly relays back video to ground communications. into all the ways the next gen of Until now, wireless speeds haven’t the brave emergency worker. That Just think: you could live wireless tech is already shaping been fast enough to allow for sounds amazing, but we reckon almost anywhere in the our world: think everything from operations to be done remotely. we’ll stick to magazines, thanks… country and still enjoy a mind-controlled gaming to robot But using 5G, doctors could control breezy commute‰to work. chefs. Episode five is dedicated to tools remotely to perform surgery Listen to episode five: ‘Remote all the ways 5G is going to change from thousands of miles away. The control surgeons’ on , Google the„way„we work. impact will be seen in other fields of Podcasts and Apple Podcasts.

Tune into the ‘Whatever Next?’ podcast today! Join th Bi Climt Fihtbck Th thrt w ll fc from climt chn hsn’t on w . And trs r still our stronst wrriors… B prt of th Woodlnd Trust’s climt chn rm nd hlp t 50 million mor trs in th round ovr th nxt fiv rs.

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Th Woodlnd Trust, Kmpton W , Grnthm, Lincolnshir NG31 6LL. Th Woodlnd Trust is  chrit ristrd in Enlnd nd Wls no. 294344 nd in Scotlnd no. SC038885. A non-profit-mkin compn limitd b urnt. Ristrd in Enlnd no. 1982873. Th Woodlnd Trust loo is  ristrd trdmrk. Im: iStock.com/fotoVor 15036 10/20 City life

Edited by Isabelle Aron @timeoutlondon

For more on our Love Local Campaign turn to page 38

Buy local, so shops like this survive Independent stores are facing hard times. The story of this venerable Harlesden record shop shows why these places matter more than ever, even if you temporarily can’t visit them

THE GREENGROCER THAT puts your local decades and still pops in at least once a week. through. ‘People like [reggae producer] Bunny Lee supermarket to shame. The bookshop with Davis was a member of The Sensations, a vocal would come in. Everyone would drop by – it was the owner who talks your ear off. The record harmony group that played with a host of reggae one of the main record shops at the time,’ explains shop where no request is too niche. London’s legends in the ’’Œs and ’“Œs. ‘Hawkeye [co-owner Davis. ‘You could hang out and chat music.’ independent shops make the city what it is – Roy Forbes Allen] played football with us and The photo shows a space that still packs a and right now, they need support. that’s how I got to know him and started going to punch, in spite of the challenges the pandemic Hawkeye Records in Harlesden (above) is the shop,’ he says. has brought: Anderson slashed his prices by ‹Œ a prime example of how shops support and Gerry Anderson, the straight-talking other percent after the first lockdown. sustain local communities. Harlesden and the co-owner, who works behind the counter, is ‘If we don’t support the record shops, they’ll go surrounding areas were once a hub for Black regarded as a reggae guru, using his connections out of business,’ says Davis. He’s hopeful that this music, with the mighty Trojan Records, Planetone to track down hard-to-find records for his loyal isn’t the end, though. ‘They’ll get through, they’ll recording studio and Jet Star Records located customers. ‘When it comes to reggae music, Gerry survive. Music is trickling, rather than selling, at there. Now, Hawkeye and Starlight Records across knows a lot. I can go to him and say: “Gerry, I need record shops. Some of them are still there, though, the road are the only two record shops left. this particular single” and he will get it,’ says Davis. purely for the love of the music.’ ■ Marcus Barnes Local reggae artist Bobby Davis (pictured) is The shop was once a meeting place for the This photo is from the ‘Bass Borough’ series by Orlando Gili,

PORTRAIT: ORLANDO GILI ORLANDO PORTRAIT: a regular at Hawkeye. He’s been a customer for reggae community, with famous faces passing commissioned as part of Brent Biennial.

7 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London City life E DI YP SH H Chin Chin’s scarily OTT hot chocolate D GARRICK I N S SECTI O STREET WC2

What goes into the London plates THE STREET THAT CHANGED MY LIFE that everyone bangs on about Chef Asma Khan on how her life came full CHIN CHIN IS famous for its incredible Akbari-Kalhur. ‘But we had this sorbet circle in Covent Garden nitro-blasted ice creams. In fact, as a with marshmallow cream. Then it rained result of Lockdown  (and just in time for for a month and people only ordered hot another one), its latest trick is to send ice chocolate. We had litres of marshmallow, I NEVER DREAMED I’d cream in the post. But its most ’grammed so we scooped it on to hot chocolate open a restaurant on dish isn’t a towering sundae: it’s the instead.’ As Chin Chin marks ten years, Garrick Street. I thought OTT hot chocolate. ‘We always served he talks us through it. ■ Emma Hughes it was out of my reach, hot chocolate,’ says co-founder Ahrash Online starter kit £9.95. www.chinchinicecream.com like opening somewhere in Buckingham Palace. Despite living longer in London than I did in India, I’ve always felt like a tourist in some places I visited as a child. Somehow, those The logistics The memories don’t fade. marshmallow The first time I came here ‘We serve it in a cup ‘Our marshmallow fluff is was on holiday in the ’ˆ‰s. within a bowl. The bowl is a secret recipe. We scoop it We’d planned it for years. I essential: sometimes it squirts on top of the hot chocolate, told my parents that when everywhere when you dig in. then bring a blowtorch to we saved enough to go to We suggest using a spoon: the party for that fuzzy London, we must go to that way you get a bit campfire feel.’ Covent Garden. I had this of everything.’ VHS of ‘My Fair Lady’ that I watched on repeat. The part in Covent Garden really excited me. My parents indulged me and we walked from Leicester Square to Covent Garden and on the corner of Garrick Street, there was a person dressed up as a flower girl. I couldn’t breathe! I felt like I’d been transported into the film. The extras Garrick Street still has that ‘Some customers add sense of magic for me. And our ice-cream toppings to now, that corner is where their hot chocolate. The truffle my new restaurant is. I cried The crumble, which we make with when I got the keys: it all chocolate black truffle, works a treat: connected up, more than ‘We use a Valrhona 80 it’s salty and earthy.’ three decades apart. It’s a percent chocolate. We make beautiful feeling when life small batches in the old- comes full circle and you’re fashioned way – on the stove back on a street corner with constant attention. It The hype which meant so much to you takes an hour to make ‘It took a while for word years ago – and now it’s for ■ five or six litres.’ to spread, but then it went a totally different reason. Interview by Isabelle Aron viral and, honestly, it’s kept our business going. One freezing www.darjeeling-express.com. cold January day we had people queueing in the snow for it.’ Explore more of the city at

timeout.com/thingstodo TANG-EVANS MING KHAN: ASTHMA PARSONS; ANDY CHOCOLATE: HOT

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 8 All your favourites from the comfort of your Christmas PJ’s.

Free delivery for new customers, 15% off for existing customers.

Uber Eats is only available through participating Costa stores. To see T&Cs please go to costa.co.uk/terms City life W RD LOCKDOWN O N T HE LIFE HACKS STREET

The most ridiculous things we’ve overheard in London this week

‘Oh yes, there are some ponds over there – but they are quite pathetic.’ ‘Ah well, I guess I’ll just shit myself in How to take up running and the vineyard, then.’ ‘For God’s sake, actually stick to it there’s nothing for us in Cockfosters!’ Nike Run coach and Track Mafia founder Cory Wharton-Malcolm shares his tips ‘Ow! Your phone Reboot your running garms Curate your playlist just hit me on the bollock.’ You’re far more likely to wear something if you Make a playlist as if you were a DJ: think about like the look of it. Think about this when picking what your body goes through on a run, think ‘My armpits smell out your kit. Winter is approaching, so take the about what your body needs at a certain time opportunity to go big or bright when it comes to and match that up with the tempo. Running is like barbecue crisps.’ your gear – whatever it is that’s going to make you rhythmical, as is breathing, so no power songs at want to don those new kicks or sexy jacket. the start or your legs and heart will want to follow. ‘Yes, that’s an oxymoron but a Make it count (literally) Get lost in nature lot of farts are.’ There are days when the first  minutes are like Running is a great way to explore the canals and an eternity, my breathing is off and my body feels trails that we might not have known were close by. ‘I could never date heavy. I could turn round. Instead, I concentrate My favourite places to get lost in are Sydenham someone who runs on my breathing and count stuff: cars, seconds Hill Woods and Dulwich Woods. As well as being between planes, other runners, dogs, squirrels – good for your mind, it’s great for the body, as for the tube.’ the options are endless. Start counting and those running on trails lowers the impact on your legs. ■ ‘If I moved to south thoughts about cutting your run short will pass. Follow Cory Wharton-Malcolm on Instagram @bitbeefy. London I might as well move out of London.’ ‘Would you rather fight one horse-sized LONDON MAKERS duck or a hundred duck-sized horses?’ Inspired by NYC’s breweries and ‘To beer or not bodegas while living there, Londoner to beer, that is Sammi Marwan started making hot the question.’ sauce using hops. Back in London, he launched Hop’t from a Kilburn kitchen where he makes it in small batches. www.hoptsauce.co.uk Overheard something weird? Tweet us #wordonthestreet

@timeoutlondon PARSONS ANDY SAUCE: TEWKESBURY; GEORGE WHARTON-MALCOLM: CORY

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 10

City life

Edited by James Manning timeout.com/travel @timeouteverywhere

YOUR WORLD ACCORDING TO TIME OUT

The best stories from our editors around the globe

Brace yourself for the arrival of bubble concerts

USA who’ve been pondering the idea USA Is this what the future of live since the pandemic hit. (Fans will Flights to New York could be concerts looks like? Performing know of singer Wayne Coyne’s long- back on by Christmas in Oklahoma City last month, The term propensity for bubble-based Transatlantic tourism has been off the cards since Flaming Lips tested out a ‘bubble crowd surfing.) Will it catch on? Will March – but now the US and UK governments, concert’ idea, with the performers everyone have to purchase his or her along with airport honchos, are aiming to reopen and each audience member encased own gig bubble? And what about the travel with quick-turnaround, pre-boarding in giant inflatable bubbles. The sweat? Regardless, we’re grateful to Covid tests. According to reports from the USA, happening was primarily staged to the Lips for being proactive about the target is to restart regular flights by Christmas shoot a new music video, but also reviving live music. Anna Ben with a much-reduced quarantine period. (Right served as a test run for the band, Yehuda, Time Out USA now, Brits are banned from entering the country altogether.) Your post-lockdown travel options

might be better than you’d hoped. Huw Oliver VIDEO LIVE YOUTH OF ASSASSINS LIPS, FLAMING CONCERTS: BUBBLE

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 12 City life

Get the latest from cities worldwide at timeout.com/news

SYRIA A giant puppet will stride across Europe next year Having made its name with a pop-up playhouse at the Jungle refugee camp in Calais, Good Chance Theatre has big plans for ŸŸ¡. It’ll literally walk an ¡¡-foot puppet of a refugee girl, called Little Amal, from the Syrian border to Manchester: a distance of nearly  miles. She’ll cross seven international borders, stopping in more than ¢ places, including London. See you soon, Amal – we’ll put the kettle on. Andrzej Łukowski www.walkwithamal.org

JAPAN Super Nintendo World is a-go in Osaka Princess Peach’s castle. Bowser’s fortress. Piranha Plants popping out of tubes and Goombas crawling about. If all of that has sent you into nostalgic feels (rather than, say, total bafflement) then you’ll be very excited to hear that Nintendo is opening its long-awaited Super Mario theme park area next spring in Osaka. Super Nintendo World will include an IRL version of Mario Kart, an adorable Yoshi ride and a Mario-themed restaurant. What’s more, Japan is planning on readmitting tourists from spring, ahead of the postponed Tokyo Olympics. It’s-a me, your dream trip! Tabea Greuner, Time Out Tokyo

AUSTRALIA Melbourne’s airport is turning green With Australia’s second-biggest city staying at home through not one but two full-on lockdowns, Melbourne Airport has been very quiet over the past few months. Thankfully, it’s been using its downtime for UAE something worthwhile. No, not Never mind WFH, you can now WFD perfecting its sourdough: it’s With a winter lockdown now in place, we’re building a solar farm to power its awfully tempted by the latest destination to four terminals. From early ŸŸ¡, launch a remote working visa: Dubai. The UAE’s the airport is hoping to source ¡ biggest city will now let you stay for up to a year percent of its annual electricity while still working for overseas firms. There’s needs from the sun – not bad for one snag: you must earn at least  (­€‚) a notoriously cloudy city, and a a month to qualify. Not quite in that tax bracket? decent first step towards making air Then try balmy Mauritius, which is launching travel that teensy bit more planet- a ‘premium travel visa’ – all you need is proof friendly. Heathrow, Gatwick: of your long-stay plans. If you need us, we’ll be time to step up! ■ Rebecca Russo,

REFUGEE PUPPET: BEVAN ROOS; SUPER NINTENDO WORLD: © NINTENDO © WORLD: NINTENDO SUPER ROOS; BEVAN PUPPET: REFUGEE Zooming from our sun lounger. HO Time Out Melbourne

13 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London

Queen in a quiet town

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 16 Rina Sawayama emerged from Lockdown as a global-TV-ready superstar. She tells Zing Tsjeng about music, dogs and why she quit Animal Crossing. Portraits Andy Parsons

‘AH SHIT, MY LAPTOP’S about something about it. ‘I was like, “I to die – hang on, let me get my can’t live here any more,”’ she says, charger,’ a slightly grainy Rina widening her eyes in mock distress, Sawayama shouts from her screen. ‘and then as soon as [lockdown] Welcome to interviewing pop stars lifted, I was like: Right, I’m out.’ in the time of Covid – a process She might be in nesting mode – our facilitated by Zoom, a piece of chat is prefaced by a warning that technology none of us had heard she’s got painters in and they might of a year ago. accidentally cut off the wifi – but As Sawayama frantically right now Sawayama is one of the scrambles to plug cables in, I’m most hotly tipped acts to emerge out treated to a view of her new place of the UK. A day after we speak, her in south-east London – or at least, worldwide TV debut on ‘The Tonight the ‘glorified shed’ that the  -year- Show Starring Jimmy Fallon’ is old Japanese-British musician is announced. She hits ‘ million currently calling her rehearsal room streams on Spotify a few days later. and gym. Like many of us, March’s It’s all because of ‘Sawayama’ – lockdown precipitated a realisation her dizzyingly extravagant debut that a houseshare is not the optimal album. It’s a record that leapfrogs place to spend a pandemic. Like genres with the dexterity of a mid- fewer of us, she was able to do concert Gaga costume change,

17 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Rina Sawayama

spanning glamorous house and anthemic queer balladry and sampling everything from a Beethoven sonata to Final Fantasy IX. To call it ‘ambitious’ is a bit like calling the Shard ‘quite a tall building’. No wonder proclaimed it his record of the year. ‘I just miss festivals so much: being in a big crowd of people’ That’s not to say Sawayama’s   has exactly gone to plan (whose has?). The singer has spent the last seven years building up to this one. In  „ , she released her first solo track. In  „‡, her EP ‘Rina’ put a voice to the bleakness of life online. Meanwhile her formidable army of fans – ‘Pixels’ – stanned harder and harder, generating droll memes comparing her favourably to Karl Marx and painting her into ‘Ghost in a Shell’ movie posters. This year, Sawayama was meant to cruise from her April album release and straight into a UK and North American tour. She even shot this week’s Time Out cover at an eerily empty Barbican – looking like a ‘Blade Runner’ replicant at Chelsea Flower Show. Now all her concerts have been rescheduled to next year, with a Roundhouse headliner pencilled in for November  „. At some point in Lockdown „, she found herself on her couch, watching the documentary ‘Blackpink: Light up the Sky’ on Netflix and feeling a dull ache in her chest as she watched the K-pop girl group perform at Coachella. ‘I just miss festivals so much,’ she says mistily. ‘Just live music, being in a big crowd of people. I can imagine that I’m not the only person who’s But then I was just like: Everyone, Like most of us during lockdown, missing that.’ ‘London just calm down. Just do what you Sawayama has had a lot of worries. In March, as the gigs were pulled can. I think some people are very Big existential ones about the whole and the video shoots were cancelled, was inspired by this sort of feeling that economy crumbling and relatively she tried to maintain a sense of this time has given them and some smaller, but no less troubling ones, perspective about the whole thing. probably people are just so not inspired. about the government’s treatment ‘Rina, there’s a pandemic, like, chill And that’s me.’ of the arts. ‘Yeah, artists can just go out,’ she remembers telling herself. the best away and then come back,’ she says, She played Animal Crossing on ‘I’m worried about the whole putting on a spoilt posh baby voice. Nintendo Switch until she realised place music industry collapsing’ ‘Encouraging people to retrain it was ‘evil’ (‘You owe money as a Sawayama’s in a pensive mood – how many people are actually mortgage… then you get a bigger for me to today, huddled over her laptop going to be able to come back to this mortgage that you have to work ggrowrow uup’p in a Nike basketball hoodie and industry?’ Sawayama half shouts, extra hard to pay. I was like: This oversized specs that look a tiny bit tossing her head so hard that her is so depressing.’) She read Oceann Steve Urkel. There’s an enormous plaited hair almost comes loose. Vuong’s ‘On Earth We’re Briefly swiss cheese plant, the trademark of ‘Literally, what would I do?’ Gorgeous’ (‘so good’) and ‘Sour millennial apartment living, lurking The fiery, impassioned tone Heart’ by Jenny Zhang (‘probablyy in the background. If it wasn’t for the reminds me of the last time I spoke one of my favourite books of all empty magnum of Moët behind her to Sawayama in July. She’d just time’). She hung out with her dog,, – a present from Vogue Japan – and found out that she’d been barred Kaya; impulsively pre-ordered the two guitars visible in the back from going up for the Brits and the the new PS¢. ‘I was stressing at thee of the frame, I could be on a Zoom because of a little- beginning,’ she says. ‘I was like, call with any London office-dweller known nationality clause that fuck, Taylor [Swift] has written into their seventh month of working stops people like her – who’ve spent

another record, Charli [XCX] has from home. She exhales loudly. ‘I’m almost their whole lives in the UK UK; COSMETICS MAC FOR MASON HAYLEY UP: MAKE DELGADO; MACARENA BY ASSISTED RICCIUTI/REDFERNS IORGA, ROBERTO IMAGE: KATE LIVE STYLING: FFØR. USING LUKE SAINT AT ROPPONGI TOMI HAIR: written another record during just worried about the whole music on long-term visas but don’t have SWG3, Glasgow 2019 lockdown. Why am I not writing? industry collapsing, basically.’ a British passport – from entering.

Time Out London November 10 – 23 202020 18

Rina Sawayama

A Rina tour Above left: at the Roundhouse, 2018. Left: at Heaven in the same year

Awards organisers have said they are ‘I was so opposed to being and so many people from different dyed her hair orange to straight- looking into the rules, but Sawayama stereotyped’ social backgrounds,’ she says now. up prejudice (a music exec calling isn’t optimistic. ‘We still are yet to In a pandemic, Sawayama’s That difference got even more stark her ‘Rina Wagamama’ behind her hear anything about a timeline,’ she commitment to honesty and plain- when she went to Cambridge. ‘I back). ‘I was so opposed to being says bluntly, her voice hardening. speaking has cut straight through to didn’t feel connected to anyone stereotyped,’ she says. ‘It took me ‘It’s a weird situation.’ audiences. It’s why ‘Sawayama’ is – in my college and that was really, a couple years to acknowledge the She equally doesn’t mince words once you strip away all the Clarence really hard.’ other side of things. By shutting out when it comes to the desperate Clarity-produced bells and whistles It’s a sentiment immortalised my Japanese-ness, I was shutting predicament facing the live music – essentially a deeply empathetic in ‘Dynasty’, a maximalist rock out all the experiences I had as a industry. ‘There’s literally tens of family portrait, one that’s instantly opera that finds Sawayama singing Japanese person.’ thousands of people who are out of recognisable to anybody who’s about inherited pain and family Then her mother moved back to work,’ she says, punctuating every struggled with their identity or trauma. ‘A lot of artists believe in Japan. And, in London, oceans away other word with fury, ‘and it is up to relationship with their parents, things politically, but they may not and nine hours behind, Sawayama the artists to support them.’ but which takes on even deeper necessarily reflect it in their work or felt unexpectedly liberated. Today, We’re speaking just a few days resonance if you – like Sawayama – in their music,’ she says. ‘I went into she turns the words over in her head. after the announcement of the are of Asian or immigrant heritage. a session recently and I was like: I ‘I think I felt like I didn’t want to first round of funding for arts She grew up in north London, want to write about white fragility. write a record that would embarrass organisations from the initial  a transplant from Niigata, Japan. The producer thought I was joking. her in a way or reveal too much million bailout, but as Sawayama Her parents’ marriage broke down I was like: I’m not joking.’ about our family,’ she finally says. explains, it isn’t that simple when it and she was raised here by her Leaning into her heritage for ‘But actually, that was what made it comes to music. ‘Really, everyone abruptly single mother. She was ‘Sawayama’ didn’t come easily. more relatable for people.’ in the creative industry is on a embarrassed by her, she says. Her At first, she wanted to disavow zero-hours contract. If you’re a imperfect English was one of many it – no thanks, presumably, to ‘I was a stan. I’m always a stan’ freelancer, there’s no contracts, reminders that they were different. the racism she encountered in Like many Londoners her age,

there’s no obligations. So yeah, I ‘London was probably the best the music industry, which ran Sawayama spent a lot of her teenage CINGI/REDFERNS BURAK HEAVEN: & ROUNDHOUSE try and support people as much as place for me to grow up, because from microaggressions like being years queuing outside Brixton possible… It’s just brutal.’ there were so many immigrants described as ‘kawaii’ because she’d Academy on chilly mornings for the

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 20

Rina Sawayama

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WHAT RINA EATS

The food-obsessed pop star’s standout London takeaway joints

Ikoyi ‘This is one of the few Black-owned Michelin- starred restaurants. One co-founder is Asian and one is Black. It’s like Asian-Black fusion. I had the smoked jollof rice with aged sheep kebab and crab mustard. It’s sweet rush of being the first to leg it ‘Being that close to an instrument performance trends on in probably my favourite to the front of a gig. In white skinny and being that close to musicians,’ the US, Brazil, the Philippines and place that I’ve been jeans, of course. ‘I was obsessed. she explains. ‘I always joke that Singapore; less than š› hours later, to recently. ’ Cajun Dance Party, bloody Bombay I was a stan and I’m always a stan. there’s already fan art of her outfit. 1 St James’s Market. Bicycle Club, any band with “the” in I understand what people feel when Going from rebellious stan to fully- front of it,’ she laughs. Every Friday they are obsessed with an artist.’ fledged pop star during a pandemic Lanzhou Lamian night she’d sneak into Koko, because The last time I saw Sawayama – it’s one way of getting to the front Noodle Bar at the time they weren’t checking perform was at Brixton Academy, of the queue. Now, barely a week ‘It’s a tiny place opposite IDs. Then Peaches Geldof got caught where she’d queued up all those after that, the UK is looking down Leicester Square. You by the tabloids. ‘After that they got years ago. She was opening for the barrel of a second lockdown. can choose anything with so strict I never went back,’ she says. Charli XCX in nipple-swishing It’s a heartbreaking moment for so dao xia mian or la mian, Her highlight of the era? Making it braids and silver assless chaps from many people in the music industry, two different types of into the Franz Ferdinand afterparty Chinese designer Di Du, looking for artists, fans and venues. For noodles. I always have the for their Ally Pally show when she like a space-age Sawayama, though, šžšž, with its sour spicy sliced beef in was ‡ˆ. ‘What a mood – aaaah!’ in her ‘Dirrty’ phase. She came on high highs and super-low lows will a soup with the dao xia.’ she screeches, delighted with her stage to cheers so loud they almost always have a special resonance. 33 Cranbourn St. teenage self. knocked the pint of lukewarm Coke ‘The records that came out during Scrawny white guys with guitars out of my hand. It was her last live [the first] lockdown mean so many Myung Ga are a long way from the average gig before ‘Sawayama’ came out. different things now,’ she says. ‘It’s ‘Normally, kimchi has fish Rina Sawayama show. Even at her ‘I had to do a filmed thing a couple not background music. It’s such sauce in it, but they’ve earliest gigs – in sweaty venues not of weeks ago’ – she lets out an an important line of optimism for taken it out so it’s veggie- so different to the ones she grew incredulous laugh – ‘and I was like: people now, you know?’  and vegan-friendly. up watching bands in – she had Fuck, I’m so out of practice!’ I’m Rina Sawayama’s album ‘Sawayama’ is out now. I highly recommend the spirit of a superstar: backing almost fooled into believing her. She plays the Roundhouse on Nov 17 2021. getting their banchan, the dancers, complicated costumes, A week after our chat, Sawayama small dishes they offer. ’ bum-length wigs and a dramatic makes her debut on ‘The Tonight 1 Kingly St. Zing Tsjeng stage fan that Beyoncé would be Show Starring Jimmy Fallon’, writes for publications including proud of. What had her queueing up complete with custom dollar Vice and British Vogue.

to make it to the front of a Bravery gig? bills with her face on them. The VIVIER; ROGER BY SANDALS KNOWLES, CHARLOTTE BY SHORTS AND TOP SMITH; O STEVE BY COAT STUDIOS LEATHER ACNE BY PATENT EARRING RED ANDERSON; CLOTHING: JW BY BRA CRYSTAL EMBELLISHED AND DRESS YELLOW

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 22

Meal

kit Dishoom mood boosts

The best way to eat your lockdown feelings? A new wave of restaurant DIY kits that guide you to flavour nirvana. Time Out editors try London’s most comforting ones

The massive kebabs that will The instructions are clear and feed you for dinner tonight there’s even a QR code which takes and breakfast tomorrow you to video guidance. Wrangling The folks at Persian restaurant those skewers feels like quite an Berenjak are so committed to giving achievement even though Berenjak Pizza Pilgrims you the tools to create an authentic has done almost all the hard work. kebab at home, their DIY Kabab Most importantly: the end result is Kit () includes bespoke metal truly delicious and you will almost skewers imported from Tehran. definitely have leftovers. Izzy Aron (or just finding out what goes into burgers. Warning: your kitchen They look like swords and will make www.berenjakbazaar.com them – FYI, it’s not health food) will smell of beef fat for days. you feel like you are running a legit then the P&B DIY Kit is a doddle. James Manning kebab shop. The box comes with two Burgers that’ll make your flat For ‡ˆ you get four posh patties shop.pattyandbun.co.uk massive flatbreads, mast-o-masir (a smell of meat (in a good way) and brioche buns, plus bacon, yoghurt dip), tomatoes for grilling, It’s just a burger, right? Weeeeellll… cheese, pickled onions and P&B Belly-warming ramen to sob onions and herbs and packets of pre- not exactly. Patty & Bun serves up mayo. (Vegan alternatives are into on cold, dark days prepared lamb and chicken, enough top-dollar meat sandwiches, and available.) That adds up to two Ari If you’re already missing the slurpy

to make four very generous kebabs. if you fancy making one yourself Gold and two Smokey Robinson joys of ramen, Shoryu’s signature MCKAY CHARLIE DISHOOM:

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 24 There’s a longer list at timeout.com/DIYkits

two ’zas and it’s pretty fun spinning that round before you slap it in a pan and top with pre-made marinara and mozzarella (a handy video on the website shows you how). It’s quite hard to get a crispy crust under the grill without the right kind of pan, but the result is still delicious and made within minutes – easy as pie. You could get experimental with toppings if you fancy reliving a classic rainy-day childhood activity, but a straight-up marg is just as bellissima. Laura Richards www.pizzapilgrims.co.uk Chips and a load of gourmet greasy stuff that’ll get all over your pyjama top Whichever maverick thought to smother a pile of skinny fries with fresh chilli, spring onions, jalapeño dressing and moreish chunks of miso-glazed lamb belly has invented a new diner delicacy. Dirty Bones’ Lamb Fries Kit costs ƒ„ and contains enough ingredients for a three-person feast. The instructions are a bit woolly – how long do you fry the lamb for? – but the result rivals the version we’ve eaten at Dirty Bones: the chips are softer – perhaps Patty & Bun because they’re baked rather than fried? – but the lamb is crispier and less fatty. Naked chips will never be enough now. SC pastrami version), which comes www.dirty-bones.com/dirty-at-home-kits with enough ingredients for three stacked Reuben sandwiches, needs A very famous breakfast to be steamed for a few minutes, and sarnie that you can now eat the bread toasted, but otherwise this at home in your pants is a simple assembly job. You slather Dishoom’s #iconic bacon naan roll the rye bread with squeezy mustard, is a delicious mash-up of greasy- pile on the melt-in-your-mouth spoon realness and Irani-Indian meat, add a heap of Monty’s own- flavour. It’s not impossible to bodge made sauerkraut, balance a slice of your own version at home, but now Swiss cheese on top and cover with you don’t have to: Dishoom’s DIY the addictive Russian dressing. kit contains bacon, chilli-tomato Voilà! A deli classic. Sarah Cohen chutney, cream cheese, herbs www.montys-deli.com and three balls of dough to make your own naans. You even get a Pizza you can cook in a frying spice blend to brew Dishoom-style pan while you’re necking masala chai. There are enough Ganso soup is a DIY delight. The kit month, but why would you want to? subscription beers ingredients for three rolls, which costs ƒ“” and serves two hungry Phil de Semlyen The DIY kit from Pizza Pilgrims (ƒ„œ) are totally delicious and pretty easy ramen fiends. All the trimmings – www.shoryuramen.com/diykits won a coveted Time In Award for to assemble, though make sure the including char siu pork belly that keeping you lot happy in the last dough is at room temperature before you’ll need to fry – come in pouches. Three whopping salt beef lockdown. So what’s all the fuss rolling it – and be careful when you But it’s all about the broth, and the sarnies, serving ‘Sunday about? The packaging is appealing, take the hot naan pan out of the oven tonkotsu is every bit as flavourful as afternoon food coma’ vibes for starters: a snazzy pizza box (ouch!). The cost? ƒ„‘ including a you’d expect in a Tokyo noodle shop. The hunk of salt beef at the heart of that opens on all your ingredients. charity donation. ■ JM You can freeze the kit for up to a Monty’s Deli’s ƒ – kit (ƒ“– for the Inside, there’s enough dough for www.dishoomathome.com

25 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London TIMEOUT.COM/OFFERS LOND N FOR LESS

Food, drink, screenings, pop-ups: don’t miss our exclusive offers and discounts

Hiver

What is it? A pack of ’‘ artisanal beers for just ™ a bottle: eight Hiver Blondes, eight Amber beers and eight session IPAs. Why buy? For the outrageous value, obviously, but also to try something new. Born from admiration of London’s urban beekeepers, Hiver makes unique honey beers that taste bee-utiful. Wait, how much? Only’‘ for ’‘ beers – that’s less than half the regular price.

Readly Laithwaite’s Cafédirect Love Yourself What is it? Two months of unlimited What is it? Six bottles of Laithwaite’s What is it? Two kilos of Peruvian, What is it? Your first week of daily access to more than  digital wine, plus two free Darlington Congolese or Honduran coffee from home-delivered meals for less than magazines, including Elle, Vogue, glasses and free home delivery. an ethical London roaster. half the normal price. Cosmopolitan, Delicious and more. Why buy? Because wonderful wine Why buy? To get your hands on some Why buy? For a well-earned break Why buy? Erm, because magazines deserves a great glass – and you’ll beautiful beans and support growers from daily cooking. You’ll get five are amazing (trust us, we make one). get both. Plus you’ll be sampling at the same time. Cafédirect scours breakfasts, five lunches, five dinners As you read the pages you get to six sensational wines from around the world in search of the most and ten snacks, all freshly made just immerse yourself in something you the world for just ‹ŒŽŽ per bottle – sustainable coffees, and pays a fair for you. And you can choose from genuinely love. And that’s priceless. you’ve got to love good-value vino. price for them, before transforming diet plans including vegetarian, No, literally, it’s free. Wait, how much? Less than them at its London Fields roastery. pescatarian and dairy-free. Wait, how much? Still free. Nothing’s ‘’ (okay, only by ‹p, but who’s Wait, how much? Just ’ for two Wait, how much? Only  for all changed since the last paragraph. counting?). whole kilograms of the good stuff. those marvellous meals. www.timeout.com/readly www.timeout.com/laithwaites2020 www.timeout.com/cafedirect www.timeout.com/loveyourself

Delivery deals and online offers to get you through lockdown. Search ‘Time Out offers’

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 26 Things to Do Things to do in London

Edited by Katie McCabe timeout.com/thingstodo @timeoutlondon

Get out and stretch your legs and brain. Antony Gormley’s physics-inspired ‘Quantum Cloud’ questions our relationship to the world and its particles. Track it down on ‘The Line’ sculpture trail. Turn to p for more. ANTONY GORMLEY, QUANTUM CLOUD GREENWICH PENINSULA, PHOTO EMILY LOVELL EMILY PHOTO PENINSULA, GREENWICH CLOUD QUANTUM GORMLEY, ANTONY

27 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Things to Do Diwali online

Diwali cooking classes If the ban on big family gatherings means you’ll be in charge of cooking your own Diwali feast for the first time this year, get a helping hand from these online cookery classes. Cyberspace culinary specialist Diaspo will be streaming free workshops for Hindus, Sikhs, Jains and anyone else who wants to create tasty dishes to celebrate the festival of lights. Led by skilled home cooks, each with more than  years’ experience of making their traditional, generational recipes, the hour-long workshops will show you how to put together top- notch thali plates, pakoras, chai, samosas and chutney that’ll rival your grandma’s. There’ll also be workshops in rangoli, the colourful floor patterns that are made over the festival. Another thing to add to your portfolio of lockdown hobbies. Until Nov 15. £10. www.joindiaspo.com

Diu Kadia Nyati Samaj-UK Diwali Celebration Diwali is closely associated with the Hindu goddess of prosperity and symbolises the victory of light over darkness: basically, it’s the festival we all need right now. This online fest from Brent-based Hindu community group Diu Kadia Nyati Samaj will be broadcasting singing and dance performances straight to your living room via Facebook Live. That’s the entertainment covered, but it’s still up to you to light the candles and get the food in. Nov 14. www.facebook.com/dkns.uk

Storytelling nights What Words Are Ours Storytelling for Adults: Merfolk Tales from Trinidad and Tobago As well as all that flowery wallpaper, Challenging, terrifying, erotic and performances from BSL poets, artist and socialist William Morris, bizarre: not bad for a Thursday pun aficionados and satirists at incorporated mythical creatures night in. this online edition of the D/deaf- into his designs, like the Romantic- Nov 12. Minimum donation £1. inclusive spoken-word variety style mermaid figures that pop up www.wmgallery.org.uk show. Performed live on Zoom, it’ll in his fabrics. Inspired by these sea feature poets Belinda Zhawi and nymphs, this online storytelling What Words Are Ours Stephen Lightbrown and Midlands night from the William Morris Listening to a ‘poetry-clown’ spit slam champion Jasmine Gardosi. Gallery will feature gripping silly stanzas might sound like a Nov 12. Free. www.thegulbenkian.co.uk merfolk tales from Caribbean lore. nightmare, but give it a chance. This Professional storyteller Wendy is how Talia Randall, the organiser Booker Prize Shortlist Shearer will be spinning yarns of this much-loved poetry-cabaret Readings full of aquatic hauntings, chilling show describes herself, and she’ll The Oscars of the book world is Diwali cooking curses and bewitched fishermen. be aiming to fill your ears with fast approaching. If you’re not

C Central N North S South E East W West Streaming Outdoors

MASSARO MIKE OURS: ARE WORDS WHAT

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 28 Things to Do

sure who to root for to win this second time around, so rather than detail. Swap sourdough starter tips Louise Bourgeois sculptures, its year’s Booker Prize, a picnic, a brisk walk with a flask of around the edges of the park’s three swampy clearings, serene watery has conveniently gathered all of hot toddy is on the cards. South-east ponds, discuss your next Zoom pools and the fact that the pond was this year’s shortlisted authors London’s only Royal Park is the ideal quiz strategy in front of the historic entirely manmade by unemployed for an evening of readings and backdrop for the swift-but-freezing Lauderdale House, or just take in Londoners in —‚. conversation, hosted by writer stroll. Strut through the grasslands the sweet sight of its handsome Whipps Cross Rd. and critic Alex Clark. Then you’ll and woodlands, check out a auburn-leafed trees rustling in the have eight days to buy and read tourist-free Royal Observatory and wind before you’re back and locked E Tower Hamlets the books you like the sound of Greenwich Meridian Line down in your flat again. Cemetery Park before the winner is announced on (from a distance), and C Highgate Hill. There’s no need to stay in watching November . If you do feel moved make time for a natter A I N David Attenborough boxsets. to buy the shortlisted books, we on top of the hill that R E Hollow Pond Head to this disused nineteenth- recommend using a new website offers a panoramic, G It won’t take you century cemetery, which, thanks B called Bookshop.org (see p€‚), ‘Blade Runner’-style long to get into the to its status as a nature reserve, which has united loads of the UK’s view of Canary Wharf. ‘OMG, isn’t nature is packed with wild plants and S favourite independent bookshops, Greenwich Park. S beautiful’ phase animals. On the Friends of Tower including plenty in London, so you T L again once you find Hamlets Cemetery Park website can bag a good read without helping N Waterlow Park R O L yourself back in the you’ll find self-guided audio to line the pockets of some mega- If you need to chew the great outdoors. One walks created by artists, botanists billionaire type. fat with a pal from another London ‘if you know, you and local people, ranging from Nov 11. £5. membership.theguardian.com/ household, there are more than –— know’ wonder that’s definitely atmospheric story walks to sonic events acres to wander in this Highgate worth a visit is this eccentric maps bringing to life the histories Cemetery-adjacent park, so you Leytonstone park. Explore its of the people buried there. can get into every thorny lockdown gnarly, twisted trees that look like Southern Grove. Home cooking

Maggie’s Christmas Bake Off Down with Zoom quizzes! Try this Was banana bread your gateway bake into hardcore cake-making? Put your new-found prowess with interactive gothic thriller instead a balloon whisk to the test in this virtual Christmas bake-along that’s raising money for cancer charity Maggie’s. It’s hosted by The conspiratorial gothic Rosie Brandreth-Poynter, a former Mermaid’s art heist. The worse semi-finalist on ‘The Great British Tongue you are at following Bake Off’, who’ll teach you how to As a 16-year-old clues, the more you’ll make the perfect chocolate log and Grand Theft Auto hear from Daisy. hopefully indulge us with some red- meme once said: For some people, hot Paul Hollywood gossip. ‘Ah shit, here we being tasked with Nov 12. £10. www.facebook.com/ go again.’ We’ve code cracking comes maggieslondon entered the with the same opening credits dread as opening a Borough Cooks Live of a lockdown pure maths A-level The ‘Groundhog Day’ effect is sequel nobody exam paper. What’s now in full force as London’s wants to star in, appealing about The iconic Borough Market pivots but at least we’ve Mermaid’s Tongue is back to streaming live cooking learned a thing that it involves another demonstrations. This edition or two. We know important skill: online features food writer Skye McAlpine that habitual self- research. If you’ve teaching you how to make a obliteration with ever spent an evening flourless chocolate, chestnut and wine deliveries isn’t sustainable. We know that unearthing the Flickr account of an old boyfriend rosemary cake – pretty useful if subscribing to every on-demand film and TV and listening to Myspace mp3s of a band even essentials stockpiling starts again. service going isn’t enough to stay entertained. he’s forgotten he was in – you have the chops Nov 11. Free. www.boroughmarket.org.uk And we know – in our very bones – that the required to solve this mystery. charm of Zoom quizzes has a shelf life of Sadly, if you’re the team member tasked with approximately two weeks. ‘sharing screen’, it can feel like you’re bungling Thankfully, online entertainment has a dull presentation in front of very impatient improved a lot since lockdown part one, thanks colleagues: ‘Click on the CCTV link, no THE OTHER Park walks for to interactive ‘experience makers’ like Swamp LINK’. But Swamp Motel’s use of hammy acting, Motel, who use a mix of theatre, storytelling, horror tropes and personal text messages makes winter gaming and puzzling to help people socialise the whole thing feel genuinely creepy. through a screen. Its latest, The Mermaid’s You become invested in the ludicrous journey S Greenwich Park Tongue, is essentially a computer-based murder in the same way you might get addicted to the Parks are having their moment in the mystery where your ‘team’ plays detective. It contorted plot of airport crime fiction, only this sun again, being the only places we’ll begins with an innocent online life-drawing class, way, you have someone else to talk to when the feasibly be able to have a socially until increasingly urgent chat messages from story comes to an end. ■ Katie McCabe distanced meet-up with a mate a woman named Daisy get you tangled up in a Until Mar 31 2021. From £15pp. www.themermaidstongue.com now we’re in lockdown again. But it’s going to be an awful lot chillier

29 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Seven reasons ThailandThailandwhy should be on top of your 2021 travel list

Dreaming of a sunny escape? Not only does this Southeast Asian gem have very few Covid cases, but you can also reduce uncertainty by booking with Flight Centre

ot until 2020 hit did we truly Nunderstand the meaningning of the phrase, ‘I deserveerve a holiday’. Think about it: we literally stayed inside for months. But now, as the year draws to a close,e, we’re finally able to plan for 2021.1. TThehe world is reopening and, rightht nonow,w, some countries are ready foror visitors. We’ve teamed up with the travel experts at Flight Centre to tell you whyy you really should consider Thailand – in all its golden, glimmering glory – for your 2021 adventure. And, mostt importantly, we reveal why booking with a travel agent adds ultimate flexibility and peacece of mind in these uncertain times…mes…

The Grand Palace, Bangkok Advertisement feature

Responsible tourism is 6a big focus for Thailand In recent years, Thailand’s tourism industry has stepped up its commitment to sustainable tourism (something that Flight Centre and Time Out are equally passionate about!). The hugely popular elephant sanctuaries have been more tightly regulated, but it’s still best to do your research, and get Katathani Phuket Beach Resort advice from your Flight Centre travel expert before you go. Scuba diving is still on the cards (particularly near Koh Tao), but it’s best to choose a Thailand is a safe dive school that helps to maintain 1placeto visit the health ofthe reef. Thailand is handling the whole pandemic thing incredibly well. Enjoy world-class The country has a strong health 7drinking and dining system – one that was ready Think you’ve tried proper Thai food? to engage in the fight against Get ready for the real deal. You’ll eat Covid-19 after their experiences well at any price point in Thailand with Sars in 2003. Mask-wearing and in every region. Start your lazy was encouraged from the start, and beach day in Phuket with hot flaky lockdown and quarantine measures roti cooked over charcoal, which were implemented quickly. Of the you’ll dip into a bowl of rich dhal. 70 million residents, only 3,800 In Bangkok, try the definitive pad cases have been recorded (at the thai at Thipsamai, or sip cocktails time of printing). 88 storeys above the city on the revolving deck of Baiyoke Sky It’s the perfect escape Hotel. The charming northern city 2into nature of Chiang Mai has a food culture all Postcard-perfect beaches are par Bookingg with Flight g its own. Trust us: if you see gaeng for the course in this coastal nation. 4 Centre removes all hanglay (salty, sweet curry often The southern islands, like Phuket, uncertainty served with pork belly) on the menu, Koh Samui, Koh Tao and Koh Phi Phi, Now, more than ever, it’s so order it. You’re welcome. blanketed in emerald rainforest, important to feel secure in your are perennial favourites. But it’s not holiday plans – and that’s where Visit Flight Centre online to book, or chat to an expert Travel all sunbathing, diving and turtle- Flight Centre comes in. If you Surat Thani, Koh Tao spotting. Up in Thailand’s northern do need to change, postpone or Consultant on 0808 239 6981. province of Chiang Rai, visitors hike reschedule your booking due to through tropical forests, explore Covid-19 or changes in Foreign caves, sail down the mighty Mekong Office advice, they won’t charge River and climb limestone peaks. change fees. On top of that, you can pay a low deposit of £49 with The beach resorts are the final payment not due until six 3 second to none weeks before departure. Ask any seasoned travellers for top Thailand tips and they’ll tell Experts will tailor- you that the southern island of 5make your trip Phuket is the place for pure seaside Flight Centre’s friendly Travel bliss. Honestly, they’re not wrong. Consultants work closely with By booking with Flight Centre, you partners around the globe, so could stay at the Katathani Phuket they’re armed with all the latest Beach Resort for eight nights – with travel advice during Covid-19. Not an extra four nights free – from only that, but they’re passionate £1,069pp. Did we mention that’s about exploring; they’ll get to know inclusive of flights? You can also you, your travel style and your get great rates with Flight Centre at budget to tailor-make a holiday to other much-loved beach resorts like suit. All their itineraries – like the Amari Koh Samui, The Vijitt Resort epic ‘Bangkok, Jungle & Beach’ – Phuket and the Rayavadee Resort can be fully customised, with flights, Baiyoke Sky Hotel in‹Krabi. accommodation and tours included.

Tailor-make your flexible 2021 Thailand holiday with Flight Centre today

Book before November 30th, 2020. Blackout dates apply. Final balance must be paid no later than six weeks prior to departure. Changes can be made up to six weeks prior to departure without incurring Flight Centre change fees (any additional holiday cost will be payable). Changes to alternative air carriers are not permitted. Normal change fees apply for changes within six weeks of departure. This promotion is in addition to statutory rights. All other standard booking conditions apply as set out at www.flightcentre.co.uk/legal/booking-conditions. Things to Do Christmas lights ONE UNMISSABLE THING C Oxford Street Sure,  has been a maelstrom of unprecedented events and non-stop confusion. But do you remember , when they CHANGED THE OXFORD STREET CHRISTMAS LIGHTS? Out went the giant baubles, in came ‰ LED ‘light curtains’. This year, Londoners are invited to nominate their ‘ hero’ to literally see their name in lights, displayed above an eerily quiet Oxford Street for seven full days over the next six weeks. Until Jan 6 2021. Free. Find out more at www.oxfordstreet.co.uk

C Carnaby Street Designed in collaboration with the street’s annual Choose Love pop-up, Somerset House AGM which has raised millions for the charity Help Refugees, Carnaby’s Once a year, Somerset House is given over to the artists who call the ’s lights are made up of neon- building home (or studio, at least), but now the whole shebang is pink lightboxes that run the length moving online with a stream of five new commissions. Watching artists of the street. They feature simple writhe about on the gallery floor to trap music is much more fun in slogans that speak to the charity’s message of hope, compassion and person, but at least you won’t have to traipse there in the rain. solidarity, which we can all park the Nov 12. Free. www.somersethouse.org.uk cynicism to enjoy, at least for five minutes or so. Until Jan 5 2021. Free.

collection, as well as orders from It has big names (Virginia Woolf’s and historians involved in Being its online shop. If you’re feeling ‘A Room of One’s Own’) along with Human from delivering their ideas Books to indecisive, the LRB site has regularly rediscovered novels that would with a series of experimental online updated recommendations. The otherwise have gone out of print events. For starters, visit the Time your door latest? Kevin Barry’s ‘That Old (like ‘Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day’, Machine café to flick through radical Country Music’ and ‘The First which it published in , and publications from ’‰s and ’¦s N New Beacon Books Woman’ by Jennifer Nansubuga was later made into a film). It has a activists, take an audio walk guided When it first opened on Stroud Makumbi. If you find yourself subscription service that delivers by robotic voices, listen to Neil Green Road in ””, New Beacon doomscrolling, do yourself a one book to your door a month (£¤ Gaiman discuss the magical mind of was the first Black publisher and favour and follow the shop on Twitter for the year) or you can order a single Terry Pratchett or book a place at a specialist bookshop in the UK. Over for some oddball bookseller humour. copy for around £¤ (not including creative writing class that’s all about the summer, it saw a surge in the www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk postage). If you can handle it, the booze. It’s broad, vague and full of demand for Black literature. But shop will deliver all its titles in one go, strange ways to kill an hour – so it’s this spike in interest from white C Persephone Books so you can turn your house in to your arrived at just the right time. communities cannot not begin Part bookseller, part publisher, own personal Persephone library. Nov 12-22. Prices vary. and end with picks from anti-racist Persephone specialises in books www.persephonebooks.co.uk www.beinghumanfestival.org reading lists – shops like New by women writers of the twentieth Beacon need consistent support. century, reprinting their works Kendal Mountain Festival Right now, you can order books with its hallmark dove-grey covers. Did you book an ambitious hiking through its website (for national holiday that has been made and international dispatch). Spend Virtual redundant by lockdown? Try this the next four weeks with Chigozie online festival that will probably Obioma’s ‘The Fishermen’, Ngũgĩ festivals pale in comparison to your plans, wa Thiong’o’s ‘Petals of Blood’ or but have some interesting stuff the essays and poems of Audre Being Human: A Festival going on nonetheless. At the Lorde for company. of the Humanities virtual version of Kendal Mountain www.newbeaconbooks.com The study of ‘humanities’ covers Festival, you can watch adventure everything from modern languages docs with names like ‘Over the Edge’ C London Review Bookshop to philosophy and anthropology, and ‘Ten Thousand Bolts’ and get A visit to this Bloomsbury shop so condensing it into a two-week tips on open-water swimming from usually involves three things: tea, national festival sounds like a people who have dedicated their cake and languorous book browsing. Sisyphean task (always knew that lives to freezing outdoor dips. If The natural order of things at the one Ancient Greek studies class you prefer adventures that involve LRB has been scuppered, for now, would come in handy). But that will reading not doing, there’s free Being Human Festival

but it’ll be encouraging contactless not stop the hundreds of researchers event The Lost Spells, where writers FESTIVAL HUMAN BEING AND UNIVERSITY SWANSEA HUMAN: BEING WILLIAMS; SAM HOUSE: SOMERSET

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 32 Things to Do

Robert MacFarlane and Jackie the laptops. You’d think watching Morris will read to you from their extremely confident people in their little book of natural spell poems. twenties dance to Cardi B in pink Nov 19-28. Prices vary. cowboy hats would make you feel www.kendalmountainfestival.com more alone, but the Queer House THREE OF THE BEST Party crew’s energy is impossible to resist. By ‘‘pm you’ll be mixing cocktails with the last of your spirits Big city trails and trying to high-kick to ‘WAP’ in Home parties your kitchen. Nov 13. Free, register in advance. The Spirit of Rave www.facebook.com/queerhouseparty What could bring you closer to the big pupils and massaging basslines of ’s rave culture than listening to Jeremy Deller calmly discuss its influence on British design? Well, a London lot of things really, but this Design Museum-organised chat between Jazz Festival Deller, fashion designer Martine Rose and DJ Trevor Jackson is bound Conversations in the to feature some decent stories from Era of Black Lives Matter: the glory days of acid house. Join Revolutionary Versus ‘The Line’ sculpture trail them online to find out why that Reactionary As a walk, ‘The Line’ is neither straight nor big yellow smiley face is saying To state the extremely obvious: jazz straightforward, but this south-east/east art something much more interesting music was born and shaped by Black trail – spanning three miles of waterways than ‘have a nice day’. culture, so it makes sense that – is all about discovery, with artworks Nov 12. £5. K E EFG London Jazz Festival appearing and disappearing each year. www.designmuseum.org E N will acknowledge a Plan your route at www.the-line.org E summer defined by Queer House D Black Lives Matter W Party ft Yshee protests. At this online Black, Blü I talk series, journalist Romantic and N S and author Kevin Le Black Peppa E Gendre and guests will London’s streamed R A V discuss the role the music micro-rave is packing industry has to play in the up its speakers and travelling fight for equality. The first in the to Birmingham’s LGBTQ„ Shout programme, Revolutionary Versus Festival. West Midland drag artists Reactionary, will address how we like Black Peppa, Blü Romantic and can take the conversations of the last Yshee Black will be joining the QHP few months, and translate them into team for death drops, emotional real, positive change. The Parkland Walk ballads and Lizzo lip-syncing by Nov 17. Free. www.efglondonjazzfestival.org.uk Follow this disused tree-lined railway on a nature walk from Finsbury Park to Muswell Hill. Look out for the sculpture of a spriggan by Marilyn Collins who pops out of the wall of a footbridge in Crouch End to laugh at passing joggers. Start at Finsbury Park station.

Little Venice to Camden Travel the towpath of Little Venice, pass Regent’s Park and walk right up to Camden Lock. The air will be crisp, the leaves will be crunchy, the narrowboats quaint and multicoloured. It’s picturesque as hell. Start at Little Venice. Full directions at www.tfl.gov.uk

Kendal Mountain Festival KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL: © JAMES FRYSTAK; THE LINE: EMILY LOVELL; PARKLAND WALK: ANDY PARSONS ANDY WALK: PARKLAND LOVELL; EMILY LINE: THE FRYSTAK; JAMES © FESTIVAL: MOUNTAIN KENDAL

33 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Things to Do Welcome to... THE OPTIMIST’S PAGE Fill your glass and/or boots with these brilliant things to (hopefully) Gigs do in  to be plastered all over social media. These infamous mirror C BST Hyde Park installations from the treasured After a long, wretched summer Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama almost completely devoid of live will no doubt be next year’s most music, you can bet that next year’s Instagrammed show when they festival season will feel that return to the Tate for the first bit more special than T U time since ‚ ‘‚, alongside usual. Satisfy your C A photos and footage of her early craving for half-hour A L performance works. portaloo queues and Tate Modern. Spring 2021. £tbc.  pints of warm Carling by booking for one of Pearl Jam’s M ! rescheduled headline U C dates at British Summer S I Comedy Time, with support from Pixies and Idles. S Trevor Noah: Hyde Park. Jul 9-10 2021. From £79. ‘Loud & Clear’ Before he became the host of C Solange ‘The Daily Show’, the South These days, the artist formerly African comedian was a stand- known as Beyoncé’s sister could up delivering jokes on politics, easily sell out stadiums, so this race and class with no desk to intimate live show at the ‚ƒ„ hide behind. See him live and capacity Royal Festival Hall is not unedited as he hits The O‚ for this to be missed. Grab a ticket while rescheduled tour. they’re still available and take a seat The O2. Sep 10-11 2021. From £31. at the table for a rare solo UK date from Knowles, who’ll be performing C Stewart Lee: as part of the Grace Jones-curated ‘Snowflake/Tornado’ Meltdown festival. Putting the word ‘snowflake’ in Royal Festival Hall. Jun 11 2021. From £60. the title of a show is a sure sign it’ll ‘The Making of Rodin’ be packed with politically minded jokes. Next year, the iconoclastic Lee – a comedian right-wingers black hole by filling tunnels with C Yayoi Kusama: ‘Infinity love to hate – will be tackling Exhibitions strobe lighting and giant speaker Mirror Rooms’ confrontational material in his sculptures. If you won’t go for From the Wellcome Collection’s trademark cynical, patience- C ‘The Making of Rodin’ the art, go for those sweet, sweet mist rooms to the Saatchi Gallery’s stretching repetitive style. Tate Modern’s major summer ‚ ‚‘ external stimuli. selfie exhibition, to Olafur Royal Festival Hall. May 18-23 2021. £22-£32. exhibition will be emphasising just 180 The Strand. Early 2021. £15-£20. Eliasson’s kaleidoscopic shadows how radical Auguste Rodin was. last winter, every year London gets In a sort-of ‘behind the scenes’ W ‘Sneakers Unboxed: one exhibition that’s just begging approach, it’ll draw attention to Studio to Street’ the artist’s use of clay and plaster in The humble sneaker has come a Theatre producing his best-known marble long way since a certain Phil Knightnight and bronze works. It’s a great began selling Japanese track shoeshoes C ‘Good’‘Goo opportunity to see famous displays to college athletes out of the bootot CP Taylor’sTaylor ‘•Ÿ‘ play about a from France’s Musée Rodin without of his car in the ‘• s. Learn howow supposedlysuppos decent, reasonable getting on the Eurostar. the footwear phenomenon has FrankfurtFrankfu literature professor’s Tate Modern. May 6-Oct 10 2021. £tbc. revolutionised sports, taken overver eight-yeareight-ye progress to the upper the catwalk and spawned a —‚ billion echelonsechelons of Nazi Germany is a C Ryoji Ikeda resale industry, at this collector’sr’s powerfulpowerful warning for our times. Japanese artist Ryoji Ikeda is well item of an exhibition featuring David TTennant will star in the known for eye-melting installations cult classics, limited releases andnd rescheduledreschedul run of Dominic full of lasers and distorting patterns innovative new designs from yourour Cooke’sCooke’s new staging of this of light. His biggest ever European fave trainer brands. Just make sure unsettlingunsett piece of political exhibition will be no different. to wear your freshest creps. thetheatre.atr The subterranean show is meant Design Museum. From Apr 30 2021. HHarold Pinter Theatre. Apr 21-Jul 17 2021. Solange

to mimic the feeling of entering a From £12. FroFrom £20. HIRSCHBERGER MAX SOLANGE: BARAJA; CHRISTIAN PHOTO RODIN, MUSÉE 1881, THINKER, THE FOR STUDY RODIN:

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 3434 Food & Dr ink

timeout.com/eatdrink @timeouteatdrink

Sun Tavern Eleven elite bars delivering cocktails to your door For Lockdown , many of these hotspots are winging booze citywide!

Tayēr + Elementary Muyu liqueurs. It’s seriously refined Choose from the likes of an Old service the Drinks Drop. Place an Our number one bar in London at-home imbibing. Fashioned, a Boulevardier or even a order anywhere in London before 1 is ambitious as ever, despite the From £24.95. www.whiskyexchange.com Banana Daiquiri (forget the banana –pm on Thursdays, Fridays and bumpy year. Bottled cocktails from bread in Lockdown ’, you’re gonna Saturdays to guarantee same-day Tayēr (the more elevated of the pair The Sun Tavern need something stronger). delivery of a —˜™š› cocktail in an in this two-part bar concept) are now 2Bethnal Green’s spirit-focused Kits cost £30. www.thesuntavern.co.uk extra-chilled pouch. The Kwānt You available to order from all around boozer The Sun Tavern comes is an exceptional savoury take on the world via the Whisky Exchange. from the folks behind Umbrella Kwānt the White Negroni, featuring olive- The range of five special drinks Brewing, so they were quick to suss 3 You can sit drinking one brine and sherry. Ooh, get you! includes a Sandalwood Martini out how to distribute good liquor to of this luxe Mayfair bar’s Fancy a bar crawl? Black Rock, Doña that you store in the freezer before Londoners staying safe at home. You bevvies on your sofa in the new Bar, Happiness Forgets, Satan’s serving – and that could probably can currently select two from eight world order. Kwānt is one of a Whiskers, Trailer Happiness, Laki also double as lockdown cologne bottled versions of the classics and handful of awesome watering holes Kane, Artesian and Swift are also all (in a good way!). Other cocktails have them delivered to your door as to work with drinks distributor on The Drinks Drop. JUSTIN DE SOUZA DE JUSTIN feature their very own range of part of a full ‘Quarantini Kit’ (nice!). Highball Brands on delivery £7.50 per cocktail. www.thedrinksdrop.com

35 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Food

Swift 4 While we can’t imagine two of Swift’s most famous cocktails travelling especially well – one an Irish Coffee and the other a sorbet- topped Sgroppino – the Soho bar still has plenty of intoxicating drinks to offer by the bottle while its doors stay shut. The Swift Bottle Shop sells pre-batched wonders that can be poured over ice or topped with soda or sparkling wine, from a Whisky Highball to a Solstice Spritz. Bottles vary in size, but either serve five, You know seven or ten cocktails. Still desperate for that Irish Coffee, though? They what every have a DIY kit for that, don’t worry. £28 per bottle. www.barswift.com/shop lockdown Three Sheets Swift needs? 5 You know what every A magnum lockdown needs? A magnum of Negroni. The team behind the ever-popular French Ž‘, which is Mirror Margarita – a drink Time Out Three Sheets knows exactly what served straight from the bottle in the named the best in London. Lucky of Negroni its customers want right now. The bar, anyway. for you, then, that this Dalston bar Dalston bar is batching up cocktails Cocktails from £29. www.shopcuvee.com is winging bottles of the cocktail to that are then being sent out far and doors nationwide. Each packs in wide via sister bar and restaurant Hacha four serves of the see-through take Top Cuvée’s online store, Shop 6 Yes, the Margarita may be one on the classic. And if limes can fight Cuvée (made very famous during of the easier cocktails to master scurvy, who knows what else they Lockdown ‡). You can also order its at home (tequila, triple sec, lime), may be good for? Earth Martini and Old Fashioned, or but it’s hard to recreate Hacha’s £70 for two bottles. www.hachabar.com

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Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 36 Food

Little Nan’s Bar 7 Most bars are focusing on getting their polished drinks to punters, but Little Nan’s Bar is channelling its frenetic energy into bringing the vibes to yours. Its lockdown party bags and boxes contain all the bits and pieces you need to throw a kitsch bash in your own flat plus a jam-jar cocktail to pour over ice and enjoy. You can also purchase or hire party props with your drinks, if you want to go all out (you totally should – when will lockdown happen again, eh?), or snap up a Christmas party pack to make that flatshare more festive. Party bags from £27. www.littlenans.co.uk Nightjar 8 We recommend you turn the lights down really low and the trad jazz music up really high when enjoying Nightjar’s cocktails at home. After all, it’ll be the experience side of things you’ll miss the most from one of London’s best-loved speakeasies. But the fantastic drinks can still be enjoyed by the bottle, including a Barrel Aged Zombie containing four different types of Nightjar rum. Try saying ‘speakeasy’ three times fast after that. Sister speakeasy Oriole is also in on the bottled act. From £15. www.speakeasyathome.co.uk Little Mercies Crouch End locals Bao Cocktail Rescue 10 and beyond can still 9 It feels like we could all do with be blessed with brilliant bevvies. rescuing – from the humdrum, Five-star neighbourhood bar Little mostly. Well, Bao has felt your need. Mercies is batching up some of its The restaurant group branched out memorable cocktails for nationwide into cocktail delivery earlier this delivery. Add a little sweetness to year, servicing much of north-east life at home with a pre-made Bellini, London with The Cocktail Rescue a Strawberry Cake Sazerac, or the – and now it’s gone nationwide. bar’s much-loved White Chocolate Futuristic-looking cocktail pouches, Old Fashioned, bottled to serve six each containing five pours, are great to eight tipples. Or go the whole hog for slinging in the freezer in case and order a three-bottle bundle of emergencies. For whisky lovers, for ‘’“ – variety is the spice of there’s a highball or a Milk Tea Old lockdown, as the old adage goes. Fasioned. But ours is a tantalisingly From £25. www.littlemercies.co.uk tart-tasting Umeshu Negroni made with plum sake. Hawksmoor From £18. www.baolondon.com/shop 11 London’s meaty restaurant group delighted locked-down Londoners last time around with a Hawksmoor at Home kit featuring a steak the size of your face plus a whole lot of booze. This time – and given that we’re well into Christmas party season – it’s decided to further hone in on the alcohol options. You can still order stomach-busting rib-eye kits, but we recommend getting in a round of the best bottled Martinis going. Or one of four new cute canned cocktails – ideal if you’re drinking solo (no Hawksmoor judgement!) – including a twist on the Cosmo filled with ‘natty’ orange More lockdown cocktails wine. ■ Laura Richards timeout.com/locktails From £12.www.thehawksmoor.com

37 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Love Local

Edited by Kate Lloyd timeout.com/lovelocal

Shop so they don’t drop

As Lockdown  arrives, independent London shops need your business right now. Illustration Geo Law

KNIVES HAND-FORGED in Curve. And we got you to tell us Kennington. Hot sauce brewed about the heroes round your way up in Peckham. Fizz from Bethnal who were making life bearable. Green (yes, really). Our city has a Lockdown “ will be different in great scene of independent makers lots of ways. Frostier, with more churning out amazing things. As gravy and more adverts promoting jewellery designer Carole Mourier revolting perfume. One thing is the of Full Moon says, ‘London is a same, though: our small businesses great place to be a maker. There’s need your help to get them through inspiration everywhere: people, this. So for the next few weeks, we’ll buildings, colours, shapes, textures.’ be highlighting some of the London Artist Linda Baritski aka Season makers who are worthy of your of Victory agrees: ‘No one comes cash. Sack off the big boys and buy to London to take photos of office something unique from somewhere buildings, they come for creativity.’ like We Built This City instead. When Lockdown ‹ happened, ‘Indie makers are being tested,’ says London’s independent businesses Milena Maćkowiak of florist Stems were among the first to suffer. Some Wilder. ‘Shop small this Christmas.’ of them adapted: bars bottling We’ll feature independent shops their cocktails, restaurants turning in the magazine (and online). And their plates into DIY kits. At Time we want to hear from you about your Out, we made a commitment to local makers. Dob them in at champion London’s local and [email protected] and we’ll tell independent businesses. Our Love other Londoners about them. Local campaign has gone global, So, pour a glass of bubbly, shuck supporting the places we love in an oyster with a razor-sharp knife cities across the world. At home, we (careful), splash on hot sauce and have helped campaigns to save the reflect on the creativity of your city. Jazz Cafe, The Gun pub and Dalston Then get online and get spending.

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 38 Love Local

What Mother Made Why not start with these... Best for: reading matter Best for: cool decor Round Table Books Pophams Home Inclusivity through beautiful An online extension of the bakery, books is at the heart of this Brixton Pophams Home carries things that publisher and bookshop, which make where you live undeniably started life as a pop-up. The public chic. Expect ceramics so good you’ll crowdfunded until the shop got a want to go Greek with your existing permanent venue. tableware and the most beautiful 97 Granville Arcade, Coldharbour Lane. dustpan and brush you’ve ever seen. www.roundtablebooks.co.uk www.pophamshome.com Best for: tiny clothes Best for: lubrication What Mother Made Forest Wines What Mother Made’s range of made- Until you’re able to enjoy an to-order childrenswear adheres in-person visit to this E shop, to a strict no-waste policy. Styles check out its speciality range of are timeless, unisex and so cool natural, organic and biodynamic you’ll want to wear them yourself. wines. If that means we can sip our The good news? You can: it does way through Lockdown € and be coordinating grown-up looks too. healthy(ish), we’re in. 192 Well St. www.whatmothermade.co.uk 149 Forest Rd. www.forestwines.com Best for: things to get muddy in Best for: worth-it calories Outdoor People Luminary Bakery Social enterprise and education Creating career training, campaigner Outdoor People employment and a safe environment brings together the best from big- for vulnerable women, Luminary brand favourites and impressive goes far beyond stunning baked independents and producers goods, though it does them too. making a difference. This is expertly Crown your next celebration with chosen, high-quality kit, without the one of its beautiful sharing cakes... background noise of big retailers. if you can manage to choose one. ■ Netil Market, 13-26 Westgate St. www. Camden: 47 Chalk Farm Rd. Hackney: outdoorpeople.org.uk 71-73 Allen Rd. www.luminarybakery.com

Time Out’s Love Local campaign supports food, drink and culture businesses

WHAT MOTHER MADE: TOM JACKSON TOM MADE: MOTHER WHAT in London. Find out how you can help at timeout.com/lovelocallondon

39 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Escapes

Edited by Ellie Walker-Arnott timeout.com/daytrips

Nooks to book now We’ll all need something to look forward to when this new hell is over – and these winter-ready UK stays are cosy AF

WE MIGHT CURRENTLY be shut defrosting your toes after walks up at home, but there’s no reason along the nearby coastal path. not to look ahead to when breaks Philham Water Cottage, Devon. Sleeps two. are allowed again, to  and to From £70 a night. www.sawdays.co.uk a stress-free stay in one of these comforting spots. At the best of The one right by the beach times, winter calls for a shameless Every room of this bougie cottage on injection of cosiness. Don’t shy the edge of Lulworth Cove is a balm. away from it now – it’s what your It would be a sweet spot in summer, poor, -beaten soul needs. but don’t underestimate its wintry And if, during Lockdown  , your appeal thanks to its fireplaces and Close London flat refuses to transform squishy sofas. Settle in and close into something soothing however those original shutters on the rest those high you crank the central heating, of humanity. this lot will do the trick. Just Cove Cottage, Dorset. Sleeps six. From £700 shutters stepping into these cabins and for three nights. www.lulworth.com cottages will feel like a big hug on the The rustic retreat (remember those?). The really tiny one It’s a no to whitewashed walls and This dinky cottage offers a really rest of artistically placed scented candles The fairytale one stylish alternative to wearing here: Bush Cottage is all chunky A ‘Hansel and Gretel’-esque thermal underwear, with underfloor humanity beams, dark wood panelling and thatched cottage beside a stream, heating, a sunken bath and a toasty a huge open fire. It’s in a pretty this place has been perfecting its log burner. Stock up on local comfort isolated position too, surrounded by vibe since the fifteenth century. The food from the nearby town of Holt hills and ancient woodland. This is inside is suitably quaint, and there’s and you’re set. cosiness in the style of a Tudor king. a worn velvet armchair beside the Spinks Nest, Norfolk. Sleeps two. From £310 Bush Cottage, Shropshire. Sleeps four. From ancient fireplace for sitting and for two nights. www.airbnb.co.uk £227 for four nights. www.landmarktrust.org.uk

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 40 Make grand 2021 plans at timeout.com/daytrips

Moonshine Shack

The historic hideaway (basically a cooker-cum-enormous Expect brick floors, wonky ceilings radiator) and a wood burner with a and dark wooden beams in this plentiful supply of logs. characterful cottage, which is one The Hut, Dorset. Sleeps two. From £114 a night. of the oldest in atmospheric Rye. www.sawdays.co.uk Luckily it’s been updated a fair bit since its Tudor origins. There’s The one with the views central heating for starters, as well An easy shortcut to feeling all as deep roll-top baths, open warm and fuzzy inside? fires and soft linen sofas Watching other people to sink into. Let’s deal with miserable unwind like weather when you it’s . don’t have to. This Philham Water Cottage Tudor Cottage Rye, plush cottage sits East Sussex. Sleeps six. right on the edge From £300 a night. of Mousehole The log cabin The one with the outside bath www.kiphideaways.com harbour. It’s a great Shit weather? No problem. You are There’s a trio of ways to warm vantage point from near the coast here, but if you need your bones in this cedar cabin: a The one in which to see the waves to spend the day feeding the wood log burner inside, and outside, a a forest whip the sea walls (along The Hut burner or topping up the hot water steaming bath big enough for two A stay here has the with any unlucky walkers) in the roll-top bath, go ahead and plus a firepit. Fresh carbs on arrival potential to be as cosy as wearing while you enjoy the underfloor stay indoors. There’s a hot tub on the (scones with jam) and pet-friendly a sleeping bag as a coat or a woolly heating, the log burner and a big, deck if you can be persuaded to go credentials add to this place’s snug, hat in bed. Neither of which will warming glass of red. ■ outside ever again. No pressure. smug feel. be necessary. Surrounded by Ellie Walker-Arnott Moonshine Shack, Cornwall. Sleeps two. The Nook, Gloucestershire. Sleeps two. woodland and looking out over Harbour Moon, Cornwall. Sleeps two. From

MOONSHINE SHACK: WWW.LIAMMORLEY.COM SHACK: MOONSHINE From £190 a night. www.airbnb.co.uk From £139 a night. www.airbnb.co.uk meadows, The Hut has an Aga £118 a night. www.sandandstoneescapes.com

41 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Time In

Edited by Phil de Semlyen timeout.com/film @timeoutfilm

ON SET Stream queen

Hide your milk, Maggie is storming on to ‘The Crown’. Dan Jolin reports from Number  at Elstree Studios

AS HISTORICAL MOMENTS she begins earnestly. ‘Where there Do you think you’d be able to play once home to the ‘Big Brother’ go, this is one of the biggest in is truth, may there be… Oh fuck it! Margaret Thatcher?”’ Anderson house. Now it hosts a faithful British politics. It is May , I forgot that bit!’ Beneath a heavily recalls later. ‘I understood why he recreation of the PM’s black-bricked and the UK’s first-ever female hairsprayed ’do, the Iron Lady asked. I mean, Thatcher and I have gaff. Or rather, its ground floor. prime minister stands outside  melts into the laughingughing form of some similarities,similarities which I won’t Above and behind looms a huge Downing Street. Clad in starchy Gillian Anderson.n. share with yoyou. But if I didn’t green screen, on which the rest of Tory blue, she gives the excited In season four of Netflix’s think I mightmig be able to do the building will be added via VFX. crush of newshounds her first ‘The Crown’, Andersonderson it, I would have said: On the other side of the lot stands interview as premier. ‘I’ll strive becomes the sixthh actor to “How daredar you!”’ Buckingham Palace. It is as if the unceasingly to fulfil the confidence share an audiencee chamber It’s the ppre-lockdown two have been deliberately placed in and trust that the British people with Queen Elizabethbeth II bit of ŸŸ,ŸŸ and opposition, in a kind of architectural have placed in me,’ she intones (currently Olivia Colman). Anderson’sAnderso remarkable staring contest. in that unmistakable, stern- Her other half is thehe transformationtransfor isn’t the Which is appropriate, when you schoolmarm voice, before quoting show’s creator, Petereter only oonene in evidence. consider that season four tackles St Francis of Assisi. ‘Where there Morgan. ‘One dayy We’re on the backlot the tense relationship between

is discord, may we bring harmony,’ he said: “Hmm. of EElstree Studios, Mrs T and QEŸ:  years in which, THE OF DEFENCE WILLIE/NETFLIX; DES CROWN: THE LTD/ALAMY COLLECTION MOVIESTORE REALM:

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 4242 Best Netflix series to stream at timeout.com/film

More ’80s political dramas to

scenes as history rather than drama. watch But ‘The Crown’ does strive for authenticity in its recreation of an Big suits, big hair, era – this time out it’s the ’ƒ„s – both big conspiracies through those Elstree sets and the use of locations, many in London. Aside from the palace, little of the capital is off-limits to the show. ‘I still pinch myself that we get to close The Mall down,’ says Caron. ‘We had Emma Corrin, who’s playing Lady Diana Spencer, driving along it with her head out the window of a taxi, the real Buckingham Palace behind her. It felt quite cheeky.’ Back at Elstree, I’m given a fascinating tour of such oddly Defence of the familiar places as the Queen’s Realm (1985) chambers (her bed is tiny) and Gabriel Byrne’s dogged the Cabinet Room, dominated by reporter uncovers a nasty that long table where so many big political conspiracy in this decisions have been made. classic Brit thriller and risks For Anderson, it was initially life and limb to get the truth all quite overwhelming. ‘When out. Her Maj would be proud. I first came in for a wig fitting, I Amazon Prime. Denis + menace was casually walking through the The Thatchers Cabinet Room and this massive A Very British Coup (Gillian Anderson room where Thatcher’s desk was,’ (1988) and Stephen Boxer) she recalls. ‘I suddenly felt the This Bafta-winning drama was at Number 10. futuristic when it aired – it’s Below left: Olivia weight of what I had taken on.’ Colman as Her Maj But then she was taken up to set in the ’90s during the reign the flat above Number “„, where of Charles III – and its socialist the PM held meetings with her PM Harry Perkins would stick inner circle (and whipped up it high on Jezza’s watchlist. thanks to Thatcher’s divisive style a mean kedgeree). ‘So much 4OD. ‘Thatcher and policies, there was rather more attention, effort, care, love and discord than harmony. detail had gone into it,’ Anderson 1984 (1984) and the ‘They’re two women who seem to says. Here, interestingly, her fear John Hurt is a Big Brother- have so much in common, but yet so dissipated. It was almost like, amid defying everyman in an Queen little,’ says executive producer and the painstaking recreation of this adaptation of George director Benjamin Caron. ‘For their semi-domestic space, she found Orwell’s dystopian should get first audience, I was interested in Thatcher’s – dare we say? – heart. masterpiece that brims with mirroring these two women, so you ‘There was something comforting Thatcher-era dissent. Fun on – but get the sense they are very similar, about walking into that set. I felt like fact: Eurythmics did the they really and should get on. Of course, as it it was all going to be okay.’ soundtrack. progresses, they really don’t.’ And that’s the key to ‘The Crown’: Amazon Prime. don’t’ As Caron points out, none of the as much as it’s about big, historical Queen’s meetings with her PMs were moments, it’s also royally personal. ■ ever recorded. He’s wary, then, of ‘The Crown’ season four streams on Netflix anyone treating the show’s audience on Nov 15.

43 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Time In

MY STREAMING SALVATION The Last Kingdom

Culture editoritor Eddy FrankeFrankel on his small-screen-screen happy plplace

I AM UHTRED, son of Alfred, but loving his Danish family Uhtred. You, too, are at the same time. Oh, he’s so torn! So Uhtred, son of Uhtred. ripped, too. Seriously, Uhtred looks We all are, because this great without a shirt. ridiculous, over-the- It’s full of historical tidbits that top, ‘historical’ drama drags you will leave you frantically googling so far back into Anglo-Saxon times what became of Aethelwold, that, before you know it, you’ll Beocca and Aethelred as they have be stomping around Hyde Park adventures in Wintanceaster, with your shirt off starting fights Eoferwic and Dunholm with passing Danish tourists and (Winchester, York and Durham). It’s downing pints of ale in your local a lovely mixture of drama, war and inn like it’s AD ­­. English history. It’s like ‘Game of ‘The Last Kingdom’ tells the story Thrones’ without the dragons, and it of Uhtred of Bebbanburg, the son feels like a warm, safe fur blanket in of a Northumberland noble (also front of a blazing hearth in the court called Uhtred, as you may have of King Alfred. A time before Covid. guessed), as he is kidnapped and It was also a time juuuust before the subsequently adopted by stinking, Black Death, though, so, you know, rampaging Danes. He is raised as don’t get too comfortable. one of them, but – gasp! – what’s I’ve finished all four seasons this bubbling up within him? Could now, so I must now sit broodingly it be a feeling of kinship with the by a lake and sharpen my sword cowardly Saxons? It bloody well is! until season five arrives, all while And he will spend four seasons (and muttering each episode’s opening counting) trying to make sense of line: ‘I am Uhtred, son of Uhtred.’ ■ his dual allegiances, protecting King Available on Netflix now. Spirit-lifting podcasts to listen to Time Out staffers pick the shows that are have got them through this year

The Whisperer in Darkness You’re Dead to Me 1The earnestness of ‘serious’ podcasts 3The downside of getting your knowledge of isn’t for me, which is why I loved this witty the past via ‘Horrible Histories’ is that you meta horrorcast from the BBC, the successor can end up seeing it just as a series of factoids to 2018’s ‘The Case of Charles Dexter Ward’. It about poop, gruesome deaths and mad rulers. reunites us with the hosts of Mystery Machine, If that’s you – and, honestly, same – let me a fictional podcast devoted to exploring unusual introduce you to the BBC’s adult version. Greg true crimes. And once again, it’s a modern spin Jenner hosts 30-minute episodes on everything on an HP Lovecraft tale that manages to mock from LGBTQ+ history to the Byzantine Empire. the conventions of the genre while also scaring When the chemistry is right between the guests the living heck out of you. Andrzej Łukowski (a historian and comedian), there are some real laugh-out-loud moments. Rose Johnstone Unruffled 2As someone whose child reached the Dolly Parton’s America badlands of toddlerhood as this all started, 4America could scarcely be more divided but this one has been a life saver. With episodes Dolly Parton manages to unite people from including Meltdowns at Bedtime, Why Is My Child all political stripes in this podcast. And her life Behaving This Way? and Is It Okay Just to Stick story has so much to tell us about the workings of Them on eBay? (okay, made that one up), child American society – all of which host Jad Abumrad whisperer Janet Lansbury calmly talks you off uncovers in this nine-episode series. If you don’t whatever ledge you’re on at the time. Not only is like her music, don’t worry – this is mainly for she expert in the dos (stay patient) and don’ts (run people who want to get a better understanding of away) of parenting in lockdown, her voice also has what makes America tick. Although, yes, there

powerful ASMR qualities. Phil de Semlyen are some country bangers too. ■ Alex Plim LIMITED TELEVISION & FILM ALBLAS/CARNIVAL JOE KINGDOM: LAST

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 44 Time In

...and where to buy them

Use this new website to support your local indie bookshop

Browsing the shelves at your local bookshop is one of life’s great pleasures – thumbing the tomes, snorting up that new-paper smell like it’s an illicit substance, picking a book you know you’re going to get lost in for the next few days – but it’s a pleasure V&A bookshop that’s just been ripped from our hands again. But before you go heading off to whichever mega-corp Four page-turners to online retailer is most convenient, we’ve got some news for you: you sharpen your brain can still support your local bookshop from the comfort London’s independent booksellers of your settee, sofa or couch. There’s a new website called recommend thinky tomes to curl up with Bookshop.org which has united loads of the UK’s favourite independent bookshops, including a healthy number in London, Men and Apparitions No Modernism Without Lesbians so you can still buy reading Picked by Sam Fisher, Picked by Erica Gillingham, material without your money Burley Fisher Books, Haggerston Gay’s the Word, Bloomsbury going to another billionaire ‘This anarchically hilarious and ‘This book will keep you company who’s only going to use it to moving novel by Lynne Tillman riffs on the long nights ahead. It’s an buy a new superyacht. on autofiction and toxic masculinity. extraordinary testament to Diana The website lets you buy from It follows Zeke, an academic who’s made a career Souhami’s life’s work as a brilliant biographer of shops like Burley Fisher, studying family photo albums. The novel mixes modernist lesbians like Sylvia Beach, Gertrude Gay’s the Word, Tales on analyses of snapshots with episodes from his own Stein, Natalie Barney and Bryher, who shaped Moon Lane in Dulwich and life, which is rapidly slipping into crisis. It’s not to the women they loved as well as the movement the V&A and Tate bookshops, be missed.’ of Modernism.’ too. And if you can’t find what Peninsula Press, £12.99. www.burleyfisherbooks.com Head of Zeus, £8.99. www.gaystheword.co.uk you’re looking for, places like Daunt Books and Skoob Bullshit Jobs: The Rise of There Are Places in the World have totally useable websites Pointless Work, and What We Where Rules Are Less Important of their own for all your Can Do About It Than Kindness literary shopping needs. So Picked by Nik Gorecki, Housmans Picked by Lloyd Sowerbutts, Libreria, really, you’ve got no excuse Bookshop, King’s Cross Spitalfields to not lose yourself in a good ‘The working world is grinding 'This collection of articles, written book. It’s not like there are to a crawl again and this book by the recently over the past decade by Carlo Rovelli, one of our any pubs to go to. ■ deceased and much celebrated anarchist- age’s most inspiring thinkers, offers intellectual Eddy Frankel anthropologist David Graeber is the perfect adventures for the curious. Rovelli writes of poets, uk.bookshop.org material to help you contemplate whether scientists and philosophers, as the widest of going back to the rat race is in any way desirable, terrain is covered. Perfect for when our physical necessary, or inevitable.’ movement is curtailed.’ ■ V&A BOOKSHOP: © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON MUSEUM, ALBERT AND VICTORIA © BOOKSHOP: V&A Penguin, £9.99. www.housmans.com Allen Lane, £20. www.libreria.io

45 November 10 – 23 2020 Time Out London Time In A beginner’s guide to open-world videogames

IT’S HARD TO imagine how a Need to get out more? These colossal gamescapes literally walking around the white, functioning, healthy adult human are there for the exploring sandy beaches of Kefalonia or the can fit videogames into their life deserts of Giza. Where would you in normal times. Between work, rather be: stuck in your damp flat exercise, commuting, going to in Barnet or sweating in ancient the pub and having to pretend to Greece? Exactly. be interested when your partner Elsewhere, recent hit Ghost tells you about their day at the of Tsushima is a sword-waving office, you don’t have a lot of spare adventure through stunning feudal time for killing Nazis or hunting Japan, and if you’re after some zombies. But lockdown has classic guns-out shenanigans, then changed all that, and videogame Metal Gear Solid V: The Phantom Pain sales have gone through the roof. is pretty unbeatable. As lockdown comes back for For something less, you know, another swipe at your freedoms, kill-y, try the meditatively slow you might be considering filling Death Stranding, in which you play your evenings with Xbox instead a post-apocalyptic messenger; of Netflix, so here’s a little primer No Man’s Sky, where you get to on the most immersive gaming out voyage around the stars; or Legend there: open worlds. of Zelda: Breath of the Wild, which This isn’t the rigid platformer of will let you relive all your nostalgic your youth, there are no levels or childhood gaming dreams. even set tasks, necessarily. Instead, And all this before we’ve even Assassin’s Creed Origins it’s all about losing yourself in spoken about Grand Theft Auto, the richly realised worlds. It makes for Mafia remake, the Fallout franchise a seriously absorbing experience or the most recent Far Cry games. when done well, halfway between you playing a cowboy meandering Games like Assassin’s Creed Look, there’s a big universe out a film and a ‘Choose Your Own around the Wild West. It’s popular Origins and its follow-up, Odyssey, there, and it’s full of open-world Adventure’ novel – and you are and very beautifully made, but it’s place you in ancient worlds – videogames that you absolutely totally in charge. also painfully slow. Maybe hours pharaonic Egypt and Spartan won’t regret exploring during the Red Dead Redemption 2, the of horse husbandry is your thing, Greece respectively – and are so new lockdown. Happy trails. ■ biggest hit of the past few years, has maybe it’s not. engrossing, you’ll feel like you’re Eddy Frankel

Three LEAVE MONOPOLY and Cluedo in habitat and tasks them with the cupboard: there are plenty of filling it with birds, each of which board games great new kids on the block to see is gorgeously rendered on one of you through lockdown. Dan Jolin, the game’s 170 unique cards. It’s editor of independent board-gaming competitive but never vicious, as to dive into magazine Senet, picks three gems. you populate your ecosystem with the appropriate avians and trigger A trio of table-toppers to see For newbies their specific abilities to score you through lockdown 1 ‘If you’re looking for a family- points. This makes it a gentle, friendly game that creates a engaging way to bring the great bit of party atmosphere, you could outdoors into your living room.’ do far worse than Codenames. A RRP £59.99. word association game with a Bond- esque spy theme, it splits players For tabletop titans into two teams. Each selects a 3 ‘Gloomhaven is a sprawling Spymaster, who must use single- medieval fantasy epic in a box word clues to help identify that – and the best tabletop experience team’s hidden field agents from a out there right now. Each player shared grid of word cards – without chooses a fantastical mercenary revealing any of the other team’s and you work together to complete agents. It’s furious fun.’ tough, battle-based scenarios. Like RRP £16.99. the best binge telly, it will have you hooked for months. And if it sounds For seasoned board too intimidating, its entry-level 2 gamers version, subtitled Jaws of the Lion, ‘One of the biggest hits of last is a great – and cheaper – way to try year was Wingspan, which gives it out.’ RRP £149.99 Wingspan

each player their own picturesque www.senetmagazine.com UBISOFT CREED: ASSASSIN’S

Time Out London November 10 – 23 2020 46

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