Bridging Across Nicosia's Divide: From a "No Man's Land" to a Shared Public Realm

by Chloe Papanastasiou

B. Arch., Virginia Polytechnic Institute & State University Blacksburg, Virginia May 1990

Submitted to the Department of Architecture In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Master of Science in Architecture Studies at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology February 1994

@Chloe Papanastasiou 1994. All rights reserved. The author hereby grants to M.I.T. permission to reproduce and to distribute publicly paper and electronic copies of this thesis document in whole or part.

Signature of the author Chloe Papanastasiou, Department of Architecture January 14, 1994

Certified by ulian Bei a"Hrofessor of Architecture Thesis Supervisor

Accepted by Julian Beinart Chairman, D\ pjyh ental Committee on Graduate Students FEB24m N4TIT

FEB 2 4 1994 M 2 Bridging Across Nicosia's Divide: From a "No Man's Land" to a Shared Public Realm by Chloe Papanastasiou

Submitted to the Department of Architecture on January 14, 1994 In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Master of Science in Architecture Studies

Abstract This thesis addresses the issue of creating a new urban identify for Nicosia, Cyprus, by rebuilding the Buffer Zone -the "no man's land" that presently divides the city- in a way that encourages the sharing of the urban space by both the Greek and Turkish communiites.

The author investigates theories of the relationship between activities and the physical space and how the physical characteristics of space can shape image and identity, and consequently affect people's behavior.

Drawing on these theories, a series of interventions within the Buffer Zone that will slowly transform the space into an area with opportunities to come together and learn about each other's culture are proposed. The proposal includes a series of open spaces and cultural activities that will encourage refamiliarization of the two es- tranged Cypriot communities.

Specific solutions to political and economic problems are of crucial importance, but are beyond the scope of this study. The intention is to resolve the physical problems of the urban fabric between the two sectors in a way meaningful to both groups. This thesis proposes a plan that speaks to beginnings of connections.

Thesis Supervisor: Julian Beinart Title: Professor of Architecture 4 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

A very special thanks and gratitude to Professor Mel King who has given me support and encouragement when I needed it most.

Thanks to my thesis advisor JulianBeinart for his patience and understanding.

A very special thanks to my parents whithout whose moral and financial sup- port this would not have been possible.

A very special thanks to Anne, Marta, Mary, Marsha and all my other friends and colleages who supported me and helped me to produce this document. 6 TABLE OF CONTENTS

A bstract ...... 3 A cknowledgem ents ...... 5 Introduction ...... 9 Chapter 1 - Nicosia Between Past and Present: A History of Division...... 13 Nicosia in the Past Nicosia in Ottoman Times Nicosia under British Rule Nicosia and Independence: The contested capital

Chapter 2 - Nicocia Today: The Divided City...... 27 The Green Line: The division edge The Buffer Zone South of the Buffer Zone North of the Euffer Zone

Chapter 3 - Building a New Urban Identity ...... 37 People and the Physical Space A Space of Possibility Building a New Image in Nicosia Ways to Build a New Image

Chapter 4 - Arriving at New Places...... 46 A Common Destination: The City Hall and Square New Cultural Opportunities: The Arts and Crafts Center and Park New Cultural Opportunities: Hermes Street New Life from an Old Link: The Renovated Market

A Final Rem ark ...... 61

Bibliography ...... 63 8 "Sire,your mind has beenwandering. This is preciselythe city I was tellingyou aboutwhen you interrupted me."

"You know it? Where is it? What is its name?"

"It hasneither a name nor place. I shallrepeat the reasonwhy I was describingit to you:from the number of imaginablecities we must excludethose whose elements are assembled without a connectingthread , an inner rule,a perspective,a discourse.With cities,it isas with dreams: everything imaginablecan be dreamed,but even themost unexpecteddream is a rebus that concealsa desireor, its reverse,a fear. Cities likedreams, are made of desiresand fears even if the threadof theirdiscourse is secret,their rulesare absurd, their perspectives deceitful, and everythingconceals something else."

"I haveneither desires nor fears," the Khandeclared," and my dreamsare composedeither by my mind or by chance."

"Citiesalso believe they are the workof the mind or of chance,but neither the onenor the other sufficesto hold up their walls. You take delightnot in a city's seven or seventywonders, but in the answer it gives to a question of yours."

" Or the question it asks you forcing you to answer."

Italo Calvino, Invisible Cities,pp.43-44 10 INTRODUCTION

How can one deal with a city split in two land of Cyprus, a solution appealing to curiosity about this other side. The city pieces for decades? What can one do those who care more about power than of my memory lies with a hole in its with the break in the city's structure, that they care about the country and its people. heart, a "no man's land" -known as the piece of "no man's land" with destroyed It is split between its own people -the Green Line or the Buffer Zone. The zone buildings and broken streets, that is left Greek and Turkish Cypriots. The Greek- marks the cease-fire line of the 1974Turk- behind once the physical barriers of mili- Cypriots on the South side live sepa- ish invasion; it is a demilitarized zone, tarily controlled guard posts, barbed wire rately from the Turkish-Cypriots on the patrolled only by UN soldiers, that was and rows of oil drums are removed? North. Since 1974 children and adoles- set in place to keep the two Cypriot com- How can one deal with the reintegration cents live within the confines of their munities apart. of both the society and.the urban form? own communities; they are growing up How can one deal with Nicosia once its thinking that their social world cannot No man's land -this piece of land with divided people have to share the same extend beyond those confines. Each of destroyed buildings and broken streets- city space again? The question set forth the two city pieces has deveoped its own demarcates Nicosia's two sectors. Each by a city re-united after decades of physi- memories and its own character. And sector is marked at the edges by militar- cal and social division is how to create a the city form bears the weight of those ily controlled guard posts, barbed wire, new urban situation that provides op- differences. and rows of sandbags and oil drums. On portunities for coming together. either side, each of the two sectors is In my own memory Nicosia has never developing in its own way under its own Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, is a city been a unified city. As long as I can state system. Nicosia is slowly becom- divided. It used to be one city, the place remember, it has been the place of two ing two cities. of two communities. Today - and for communities with different beliefs and the past 19 years- it is split in two, a city aspirations who lived together sepa- Circumstances and reality will force of two systems and two cultures that rately. And for as long as I have known Nicosia's divided people to share again share some of the memories and the love the city there has been this mysterious the same city space. Politically, a federa- for their city, but fight for control. It is "other side" to it, a forbidden place that tion of two states with a central federal split by military force serving the terms I could see from afar but could not cross government and separate administration of a claim for partition of the whole is- or experience. Within me lies a genuine on the local level has been accepted as the basis for an agreement to solve the Jerusalem 26 years ago after the Six-Day has to go beyond matters of physical Cyprus problem. Eighteen months will War that brought an end to Jerusalem's form and the issue of preserving Nicosia's elapse before the federation is installed physical division and the removal of the unique architectural character into the and ready to function. After eighteen Green Line that kept Arabs and Jews aspect of social relations. What kind of a months people will be allowed to move apart. These cases have shown that place should develop along no man's freely. Due to its importance as an eco- removing the marks of division-taking land that would be a place for all? What nomic, cultural, and administrative cen- away the border and the debris, allow- kind of physical design can re-knit the ter, Nicosia will be re-united and become ing people to pass freely- is not ad- two city pieces spatially, and at the same the capital of the island's two states. The equate to reconnect the city. With the time provide opportunities for coming two city parts that are developing sepa- removal of the physical barriers, the re- together? rately after the war will come together knitting of the urban form becomes a again. My curiosity and desire that I design challenge. In both cases it is ap- In re-knitting a damaged urban fabric, have carried with me since childhood to parent that the barriers to re-unifying a the dilemma is whether to look for mean- see the other side may be satisfied. How- city divided for decades are substantial ing in the spatial and social patterns of ever, before that is possible, the question and entail both physical and social as- the city's past or in some concept for the of how to remove the physical and social pects. And the most difficult question future. Should we reconstruct the Buffer barriers that have accumulated over the such cities ask is how to create a better Zone to its state of 20 years ago? The years of division has to be answered. city out of the ruins of a fragmented memory of the 1974 war experience is environment full of fear and hatred. expressed physically and socially in the It is not just in Nicosia that men have city's space and has affected the atti- drawn demarcating lines in the service In the case of Nicosia the removal of the tudes of at least one generation. The new of political expediencies that designated Buffer Zone -the "invisible wall" whose generations of Greek and Turkish Cypri- the "enemy" on the other side. On No- edges cut into the heart of the old walled ots are growing apart beyond the "invis- vember 9, 1989the world has witnessed city- will leave the city with a body ible wall." For the young, the Buffer the fall of the Berlin Wall, that artificial "wound". But it will also create the Zone is the area that solidifies their iden- physical barrier that kept families and potential for new development and op- tity: it distinguishes them from the "oth- friends apart for almost 40 years. A portunities for new connections at the ers" on the other side. In addition, the similar act of destruction took place in urban level. Removing the "wound" urban edges created by the Buffer Zone have altered the course of development tity of the two ethnic groups which differ comes a place for all. and the structure of the city. Downtown with regard to origin, nationality, reli- -the area along and around Hermes gion and language. Yet, ironically The emergence of the divided city is first Street-lies completely within the Buffer enough, it is the only neutral territory explored through the history of Nicosia's Zone; this has left both sectors without a where the two Cypriot communities oc- two opposing groups whose opposition commercial center. After 18 years of casionally meet in an attempt to discuss resulted from psychological barriers in- partition new centers have been created and solve their differences. Because of duced by political expediencies. Under- on either side of the division. its neutrality, the Buffer Zone area seems standing the forces that have shaped the to hold the most promise for bridging city in the past and the ones shaping the Of interest to this thesis is the design of across the two Cypriot communities and city now is important to identify the Nicosia's Buffer Zone or Green Line creating common grounds for inter-com- forces that could possibly shape the city's which is based on its unique and critical munal social contacts. To bridge be- future. It is important to identify and role for the future of the city. Located tween communities, between the old and preserve those structures that can adapt between the two city pieces, the site is the new, it is necessary to develop an to the new organizational patterns the loaded with both a political and a social image, an identity and a memory. Those city will need. However, new urban mission. The Buffer Zone holds the most will facilitate the transformation of the choices that encourage contact must be promise for the city's re-unification. As Buffer Zone into a place special and made available to those who are willing mentioned before, for almost two de- unique for everybody and bring it back to make them. If choices are not there cades now the Buffer Zone -an "invis- to life as a place for all. noone will take them. The commitment ible wall" that runs directly through the is to find ways of bringing together old city's center forming an East-West axis- This thesis addresses how to the make an and new to create new memories for all has emphatically expressed Nicosia's urban place that meets the challenge of of Nicosia's people. social, economic and spatial division. It providing opportunities for coming to- is the point where the two communities gether: the kind of spatial design that turn away from the "other side" and may have the capacity to re-knit Nicosia's differential development of the two sec- two pieces back together and slowly tors begins. Each sector signifies in its transform "no man's land" into the focal physical space the distinct collectiveiden- point for the city's urban life that be- Figure 1: Nicosia's built-up area

14 CHAPTER 1 - NICOSIA BETWEEN PAST AND PRESENT: A HISTORY OF DIVISION

"The place a group occupies is not like a the red crescent and star of the Turkish around, I remember asking my father to blackboardwhere one may write and erase flag. My early memories are of the cathe- take me there. The answer that he gave figures at will. No imageof a blackboardcan dral an exciting and, at the same time, a me has remained inmy memory for many recall what was once written there. The curious structure that looked like a years: "We can't go there. St. Sophia is on board could not care less what has been church, but instead of a bell tower it had the Turkish side and we are not allowed written on it before,and newfigures may be two minarets rising up its two sides. to go see it because it is not our church; it freely added. But placeand group have each Anxious to go see the building firsthand, is a Turkish mosque". receivedthe imprint of the other. Therefore, and climb up the minarets and look every phase of the group can be translated into spatialterms, and its residenceis but a juncture ofthese terms." (Halbwachs 1980, 130)

Nicosia has never been a unified city. It has been the place of two communities with different beliefs and aspirations that lived together separately. And for as long as I have known the city, there has been a mysterious "other side" -a for- bidden territory that I could see from afar but could not cross or experience. From afar one can see the massive struc- ture of the cathedral of St. Sophia -a distinct and dominant piece of Gothic architecture- rising from the dense con- tinuous fabric of the walled city. Two high minarets flank both its sides and fly Figure 2: The Cathedral St. Sophia seen in the distance. The simple answer did not make much understand how the divided city came island's division (Attalides 1977, 111- sense to a six-year-old child. The cathe- to exist in people's minds and how this 116). Ethnic differences began surfacing dral that was no longer a cathedral. Chris- group consciousness was physically by the end of the Ottoman rule, became tian churches with minarets dispersed manifested over the years, loading significant during the years of British throughout Nicosia's urban fabric and Nicosia with long-lasting anxieties that rule, and carried over to the years of the existence of the forbidden side -all have left imprints on the urban form and independence. However, until the 1974 things I was told I was not allowed to go are shaping its present course of devel- invasion that brought the island's parti- see- puzzled me for years. It was not opment. Nicosia has been spatially, eco- tion, Greeks and Turks had established until I began to understand Nicosia nomically, and politically divided among and maintained certain patterns of con- through its history that was closely tied its own inhabitants -the Greeks and the tact. When Greeks and Turks were still to the story of its inhabitants, that this Turks- since 1974. For almost two de- sharing the same city space, they man- contradiction between reality and form cades now, the city has been a place of aged to establish contacts in the form of began to make sense. "As the image of a unresolved aspirations and conflicts. It social, economic and political exchanges departed recedes into the past the image is fighting to withstand one of its worst underlined by common economic inter- changes as certain features are effaced enemies yet: division. ests. and others are accentuated according to the perspective from which he is viewed To understand Nicosia's unique land- Nicosia in the Past ie. the past is slowly defaced, new im- scape, physical as well as social, we must ages overlay the old so that we know of look into the city's history and into the Located in the Eastern Mediterranean, at the former only by what the latter tells duality of society emerged into a na- the crossroads between Europe, Asia and us" (Halbwachs 1980, 72). The historical tional conflict over political status. The Africa, Nicosia -the capital of Cyprus- events that have shaped group remem- clash between Greek and Turkish Cypri- has a complex story that parallels that of brances and have altered the group con- ots over majority-minority issues is an the history of the whole island. It was sciousness of Nicosia's inhabitants are essential dimension of the present-day established almost 1000 years ago and encoded both in tradition and, conse- realities. The sociopolitical develop- during the course of its development it quently, in the urban form of the present ments that accompanied the transition has withstood the ravages of time and of city. Learning about the history of from one empire to the other accelerated many conquerors: from the ancient Egyp- Cyprus, listening to my parents' and my the development of ethnic cleavage that tians and Romans, to the Crusaders, the grandmother's stories, I slowly began to resulted in the events of 1974 and the Franks and the Venetians, to the Otto- ANCQ MEDIAEVAL CITY WALLS OF NICOSIA COYIH d\-ABY KEVORKK. KESHISHIAN ISBN9943 - 571- 21- 2 3.\\ ,,-'ALL RIGHTSRESERVED

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Figure 3: Map comparing the spatial characteristics of Lusignan to Venetian Nicosia mans and the British. As each of the -especially towards the South. The walls, until the 16th Century that the tradi- conquerors took over and had to accom- almost intact since 1567when they were tional city shrank to the confines of its modate their needs and culture into the built by the Venetian rulers, consolidated present wall. remnants and foundations set by the pre- at the time a highly dispersed town within ceding one, Nicosia's configuration and a 1.5 km diameter. They also defined a Centrality and compactness did not mat- character has changed through the ages. central compact system where everyone ter much in the early days, when the knew almost everyone else and where island of Cyprus consisted of a group of From the air, Nicosia still appears to be a there was not much sense of privacy. separate kingdoms that were not yet single entity. It rises from a plain with its Although its central location and geo- united. During the time of Lusignan rule towering Venetian walls and its eleven graphical position have been the city's that preceded Venetian times, the capital bastions surrounding the historic center, features since its early establishment, it was still a highly dispersed town within the core of the city. Outside the walls the was not until the Venetian times that a nine -mile circumference. We know modem city is growing indiscriminately these became important. And it was not from Etienne de Lusignan's description that until the late 1560's Nicosia "was great, in circumference three leagues or nine miles" (Cobham 1908, 120). We also know that the topography of Lusignan Nicosia does not resemble the densely-knit fabric of the present city.

Lusignan Nicosia was airy and spacious with an abundance of water from the river Pedieos. The city "was not quite full, but it had many gardens and large ones.... Without the city, fromthe Lower gate to the Gate of S. Dominic, all the land is full of gardens which stretched away for a league ... " (Cobham 1908, e crossroaas or Jurope, Asia 120-121). At the time the river ran through the city's center. Along the and was protected to the North by the der the threat of an attack from the rising length of the river bed entering the city at range of Pentadactylos Mountains. It Ottoman Empire, the Venetians decided the Lower Gate on the West -known was also located at the crossroads of to make the city more defensible and today as Paphos Gate- all along Hermes important trade routes: from the ports of "reduced it to one league or three miles, Street to the gate of St. Dominic on the Famagusta to Paphos along an East-West and left three gates as it had before and East -known today as Famagusta Gate- route, and the ports of Kyrenia to Larnaca leveled with the ground the two thirds of the city was filled with beautiful gar- along a North-South route. In 1567,un- the city all around leaving the third part dens. Parallel to the river passed the most important street of the medieval town (Maratheftis 1977, 57).

Nicosia became the capital of the island due to its location and the security that it provided from external attacks. From the 10th Century onward, because they faced danger from Arab attacks, the pros- pering coastal cities of Cyprus were no longer safe as the administrative and military headquarters of the ruling class. These circumstances called for a shift of the administrative headquarters from the coast to the interior to a capital from which the whole island could be con- trolled and defended (Maratheftis 1977, 40). Due to its central location, Nicosia was chosen in the 12th Century as the island's official capital city. The city sat on fertile land with an abundance of water in the middle of the Mesaoria plain Figure 5: Old map showing central location of Nicosia . (Source: Stylianou 1980) in the middle. Thus were destroyed island was taken and ravaged, its nobil- (Cobham 1908, 55). With no political many houses and palaces and eighty ity extirpated, its magistrates, captains rights to voice its own needs and without churches of all kinds" (Cobham 1908, and guards slain, and the rest of the permission to even practice its own East- 120). In fortifying the city the Venetians' inhabitants enslaved. So it fell under the ern Orthodox religion, the native popu- caused one of the worset destructions of rule of the barbarians, its royal state and lation was politically and socially weak- Nicosia's physical landscape: they de- luster and old magnificence vanishing ened. Thus, it welcomed the Ottomans stroyed numerous churches and palaces under the Turkish tyranny. In the hands and hoped for a better future. For the and they diverted the river out of the city of savages regal glory and high renown new rulers, though, Cyprus was no more to its present course outside the walls. sink and fall, while the authority, pomp than another unimportant province, a and wealth of the dependencies concen- tax farm, within the extensive Ottoman The walls were built to withstand an trate themselves at the seat of the Em- Empire. For almost three centuries on- Ottoman attack. Unfortunately, they pire" (Cobham 1908,196). In 1571,along ward the conquerors -the Turkish Mos- failed in their purpose. For forty days with the rest of the island of Cyprus, lem minority- ruled the native Greek Nicosia "endured many and fierce at- Nicosia passed on to Ottoman adminis- Christian majority. tacks, but the greatness of the enemy's tration. host, which is said to have numbered The Greek Cypriots -Greek-speaking eighty thousand soldiers, prevailed, the Nicosia in Ottoman Times Christians- had been under foreign rul- ers for many centuries before the Otto- When Nicosia passed to Ottoman ad- man occupation. Since Lusignan times ministration in 1571,it was already in a and all through the Venetian rule, a state of decline. The native population schism had already been established be- had suffered greatly from the three hun- tween those in power and the native dred years under slavery and the heavy population. At the top was the wealthy taxation imposed by the Venetians. As aristocracy, living in luxurious palaces Martin Von Baumgarten put it in 1508 and stately houses; underneath them after his trip to the island, "the poor was a suffering Greek native population, common people are so flayed and pil- slave to the rulers and an observer in the laged that they hardly have wherewithal background of political events. Its main Figure 6: Kyrenia Gate. (Source: Hunt 1990) to keep soul and body together" duty was to work and pay the dues to support those at the top. This relation- Although there were no formal barriers as a dual political and religious center. ship between natives and rulers carried to social interaction among the members Upon arrival the Turkish population over into the Ottoman era. But, it carried of the two communities -no "institution- stayed within the Venetian walls and over with important changes in the alized avoidance" patterns- there were concentrated to the north of the old river sociopolitical structure of the island that differences in the population character- bed with neighborhoods arranged allowed for the improvement of the rela- istics that dictated societal patterns around the newly established mosques tionship between the two. (Loizos, 299). The millet system set clear and schools. The Ottoman governor, boundaries for ethnic identification and along with the new administrators, The Ottomans encouraged a dual sys- two separate communal identities along settled in the northern Nicosia quarters, tem of administration. Under the newly religious lines. Religion became both an taking over the ceremonial and residen- established millet system, the Ottomans organizational and an administrative tial center of the preceding rulers. For permitted the native population some tool. Settlers and Christians owned their relative freedom in their own affairs. own land and paid taxes to the Porte. This was accomplished by granting reli- However, only Moslems were consid- gious autonomy to the Greek Christian ered first-class citizens and enjoyed cer- community. The archbishop was re- tain privileges including much lower stored as the political spokesman for the taxes; the Christians -the Rajahs- were Greeks. He and his representatives were considered second class. Religious affili- obliged to assist authorities in collecting ation became the marker of social status taxes in exchange for the right to repre- and provided privileges of community sent the interests of the Christians di- services and income. rectly to the Porte in Constantinople. Whereas the Ottoman Governor had The city's space reflected this duality in military and legal responsibility with the social and administrative structures. religious responsibility confined to the With each group having its own reli- Moslem population, the Archbishop had gious leader, Nicosia within the walls financial and religious responsibility over was separated into two quarters; it was residentially segregated along ethnic and the Christians. Figure 7: The urban form of Nicosia in Ottoman religious lines and emerged at this time times. Major monuments and sequences. their own convenience they spared from alter the building in any way. They were tions. The Archbishop's Palace was first destruction the many Christian churches content to add the two highminarets and built near the Famagusta Gate, along and palaces of Nicosia. The Venetian forbid all Christians to enter the build- with residence and school facilities Palace became the Serai, the seat and ing. The nearby Church of St. Nicholas around it. residence of the Ottoman Governor. The was also converted into a new market. Catholic cathedral of St. Sophia was con- Although segregated, Greeks and Turks verted into a primary mosque, the Similarly, the Greeks concentrated to the had contacts in the city markets -like the Seliniiye mosque. The Turks did not south side of the river bed, around their one around the Selimiye Mosque-the own churches and educational institu- form of commercial exchanges. The mil- let system was set up so that it allowed for enough flexibility, "in such a way as to blur the hard edges of the boundaries between the two communities" (Loizos, 300). with their shops located side by side along commercial streets like Hermes Street, Turks and Greeks were competing for business.

Nicosia's development during the Otto- manrule was limited and confined within the Venetian walls. It was then that the spacious city with the beautiful gardens slowly became an area of densely built quarters. Small residential units with balconies overlooking the narrow street replaced the spacious area of the city. It was in this crowded condition that the Ffuo British found the city in 1878 when they Figure 8: The Market in front of Selimiye Mosque in Ottoman times. (Source: Keshishian 1990) took over the island. Nicosia under British Rule TheBritish were the first to bring changes Nicosia and Independence: to the traditional city. Threatened by the The contested capital The cultural differences between the narrow crooked streets with the covered Greek and Turkish Cypriots were of no balconies that almost touched each other, Growing up in the city of the mid 1970's, major importance until the British took they found Nicosia congested and un- I have learned the world of Nicosia with Cyprus in trust from the declining Turks healthy. They moved away from the the Green Line that has divided it since in 1878. The British brought about two traditional core, locating their adminis- 1963. The green line today runs for 118 major institutional changes in the politi- trative and residential areas outside the miles like an unhealed wound across the cal position of the Greek population in Venetian walls. The newly constructed whole island of Cyprus. It marks the relationship to the Turkish population, roads leading to these newly built areas cease-fire line of the 1974 Turkish inva- undermining the patterns of peaceful co- provided impetus for further growth. existence that the millet system allowed Commercial and marketing facilities ac- (say whatwere the institutional changes). companied the road construction. Each group retained their own education Nicosia's outward sprawl began, setting system, their own religious institutions the foundations for the modem city. The and their own laws; both languages were Venetian walls lost their original func- given equal importance; and both groups tion as the city's defense. But, they ac- had their own political representatives. quired a new role that has an important Ethnic concentration to the north and effect on the spatial structure of Nicosia: south of Nicosia was maintained and they form the boundary between the old encouraged. The remaining Turks, from and the new, between the core and the being rulers of the island, became subor- areas that are spreading indiscriminately dinates to the British colonists,just like beyond the walls to the south, the west, their Greek counterparts. By establish- and north of the city. ing "equality" through encouraging the Turkish minority to speak out for their rights, the British kept both Greeks and Figure 9:Theurban form of Nicosia during British Turks under control. rule. Ledra-Kyrenia Street established as a major commerical street. sion, defining a neutral zone in between 1963, only three years after the island's conflicts concerning power distribution the two city pieces. The line -drawn in independence from Britain. and civil rights. In November of 1963, green ink across a map of Cyprus by a the Greek president asked for a revision British officer- had been in place in Eighty-two years of British rule came to of the Constitution and presented his Nicosia since the inter-communal fight an end when the Cypriots were given own proposals in a thirteen-point plan. of a decade earlier, when the first serious independence on August 16,1960. Inde- Among others, the plan included the break in the relations of the two commu- pendence came after the failure of the issue of separate municipalities. Dis- nities occurred. The fight occurred in British colonists to keep the two Cypriot agreements over the proposal led to communities under control. The Repub- armed violence against civilians of both lic of Cyprus was established in 1960 as communities that broke out in Nicosia an aftermath of a five-year struggle by a on Christmas Eve of 1963. For safety Greek Cypriot organization for union reasons the Turkish Cypriots withdrew with Greece. The Constitution was set into armed enclaves, "no go areas" for up to bring together two worlds of dif- the Greeks. The establishment of the fering traditions and safeguard the rights Turkish enclave to the North of Nicosia - of the minority. With bi-communalism where most of the Turkish population as its base, the Constitution made clear had already been concentrated since Ot- provisions about the position of each toman times- officially marked the spa- ethnic community, destroying any rem- tial and social division of the city. nants of a "unified consciousness" based on common interests. Each group was to The division was physically manifested have its own municipalities and its own with the Green Line that was set in place administrators under a mixed central to keep the communities apart. The Green government. Line was established on Christmas Day of 1963 as a result of a cease-fire agree- The Cypriot communities had to live ment supervised by the British, to pre- peacefully under a constitution that en- vent Greeks and Turks from further

Figure 10:The urban form of Nicosia at Indepen- forced ethnic division. Communal sepa- armed confrontation; its establishment dence. Growth is occurring outside the walls. ratism did not work for long. There were marked the beginning of two separate city entities and the economic and politi- cal disengagement of the Turkish Cypri- ots from dependence on the Greek sec- tor. Until 1974, members of the two communities could cross the line when accompanied by a UN soldier. Since 1974the line has become a border tightly sealed to the members of the two com- munities from either side, intensifying the divided course of the development of the city's spatial form. Figure 11: Nicosia today with buffer zone separating the city. CHAPTER 2 - NICOSIA TODAY: THE DIVIDED CITY

"When the city ceasesto be a symbol of art the continuity of the tightly knit fabric. and order it acts in a negativefashion: it Very few cars move in the distant streets. expressesand helps to makemore universal From the tops of the minarets, the cres- thefact of disintegration. In the closequar- cent and the star of the Turkish flag ters of the city perversitiesand evils spread salute visitors and viewers; the voice of more quickly and in the stones of the city the muezzin echoes across as he calls the those anti-socialfacts become embedded." faithful to prayer. These are unmistak- (Mumford 1938,6). able dues to the origin of those who inhabit these tightly knit quarters. The Climbing up to the roof-top of a high-rise north is home to the Turkish Cypriots; it I tried to get a physical sense of where the is also an area that has yet to catch up city is now. From this view overlooking with the pace of modem times. the city, the fractured skyline of Nicosia mirrors, more than anything else, the In contrast, a continuous wall of high- political faultline: the astonishing differ- rises defines the skyline to the south ences that have accumulated over al- beyond the Venetian walls. These are most three decades of de facto partition. homes to all kinds of businessmen-bank- Like mirrors placed back to back, the two ers, managers and traders. From high sides of Nicosia reflect almost irreconcil- up, the southern side of Nicosia has a able opposites in the collision of the more cosmopolitan, European face:mod- Greeks and the Turks, of Orthodoxy and em construction, flashy electronics and Islam. They reflect the distinct collective colorful signs, discos and restaurants. identities of the island's two cultures. The cars and the youth on motorcycles who fill the streets below, as well as the Low, red-tiled roofs stretch across to the modem buildings, indicate a place with north of the city, homes to craftsmen and a flourishing economy and industry. The Figures 12, 13, 14: Ledra Street sequence to shopkeepers. Tall minarets punctuate south is home to the Greek Cypriots. guardpost. Walking through the streets of southern decorated for the exclusive use of pedes- begins. Nicosia, one encounters the realities of trians. It has since become one of the human and physical partition. At first, favorite meeting places for young people. The Green Line: The division edge life in the streets appears to be normal. But, as one walks down Ledra Street, it The major streets leading to the commer- suddenly runs out. The lively street ends The Green Line, the border drawn in cial areas in the core of the city and the abruptly as one confronts the barbed 1963 and tightly sealed following the central business district are busy during wire, the sandbags and the oil drums of 1974 Turkish invasion, divides Nicosia the daytime. Ledra Street, one of the a manned checkpoint and the appear- through its center into two sectors with most popular shopping streets of Nicosia, ance of gun posts and machine gun em- no concern for human compassion or is usually filled with people and well placements. Dilapidated and deserted any spatial or functional considerations. used. During the day people walk up buildings stand on both sides, bearing On its way through, it splits houses and and down, shopping and talking to each the signs of warfare: bullet holes, miss- the most important streets of Nicosia, other. Ledra Street was pedestrianized ing windows, collapsing roofs and walls. like Ledra Street and Kyrenia Avenue. during the past year: it was paved and This is the point where the "Green Line" To the East the Green Line splits the

Figure 15: View of the north Turkish sector of Nicosia suburb of Kaimakli and extends west- realizes that the this border exists only tural symbols inserted into this politi- ward to the old walled city near when wandering through the streets of cally designated space in order to project Famagusta Gate. It continues along the old city. Any street one follows for a identity through place and form. The Hermes and Paphos streets and out stroll comes to a sudden end in a manned edge is ethnically charged, demarcating Paphos Gate to the west of the city. The checkpoint, or rows of sandbags and oil the point where Greek and Turkish Cyp- top of the bastion adjacent to Paphos drums. These streets lead people no- riots turn away from each other. Flags Gate is controlled by the Turkish army; where. The "invisible wall" is inescap- indicate the separate collective identities the moat at the bottom is within Greek able and forces people to turnback where of the two rival groups. At certain points territory. From the Gate the border con- they came from. the line is so narrow that the flags of the tinues westward through Nicosia's In- two communities almost touch one an- ternational Airport which is no longer in Walking along the southern edge of other. On either side soldiers from op- use, and out to the rural areas. The Green Nicosia's Green Line, one begins to no- posing camps have been keeping watch Line forms an "invisible wall" through tice how ethnic borders become signifi- over each other, day and night, for eigh- the historic center of the old city. One cant and are made meaningful by cul- teen years now. At almost every turn big

Figure 16:View of the south Greek sector of Nicosia warning signs intentionally draw atten- tion: "HALT - DO NOT CROSS. TO- WARD TURKISH OCCUPIED AREA," or "DO NOT PHOTOGRAPH - PHO- TOGRAPHY PROHIBITED." These signs stand next to deserted buildings now beginning to fall apart from the years of neglect. The edge conveys dan- ger and signals people to keep away.

The hostile messages of the border ren- der it menacing and dangerous in people's minds. Fear and alertness hang in the air along the edge. Occasionally, as the sun sets, tempers flare across the sandbags and the oil drums of the lifeless and empty blocks of the Buffer Zone. The border becomes a place of verbal warfare, where insults and obscenities are tossed across. Wandering along the border can be dangerous. Except for the occasional militarily controlled check- points at the ends of streets, there are no other physical barriers along the whole length of the border -like there are along the wall in Berlin- to prevent people from crossing. One could easily enter into the forbidden territory of the Buffer Figure 17: The present state of the Buffer Zone area. Zone and be arrested by the opposing camp. For years, few people dared to go close. Now things have begun to change, but the fears remain.

The city's division and the fears of hos- tilities that remain repel development and urban growth in this area. Develop- ment occurs away from the edges of the Green Line in opposite directions. Resi- dents on both sides ignore what is taking place on the "other side." On the other side lies the "enemy" and no one wants to go near.

The Buffer Zone

The edges of the Green Line define a neutral territory in between, only a few blocks wide. Ironically enough the zone runs through the streets where the com- mon life ofthe two communities went on in the form of commercial exchanges, before the Turkishinvasionof 1974.What was once Hermes street, a thriving urban center in the area, is today a demilita- rized tract of land known as the Buffer Zone. The Buffer Zone is designated as a "no man's land" that keeps the com- munities away from face-to-faceconfron- Figure 18: The present state of the Buffer Zone area. tation. At some locationsin the old walled west axis. A wide range of coffee shops, In the summer of 1974, after an unsuc- city it is as wide as a street. Nobody can smallhotels and shops of all kinds flanked cessful attempt by the Greeks to over- cross this area except the UN soldiers or both sides of the street. You could find throw the government, the Turks in- foreign diplomats with special permis- everything: fromthe best bakery in town vaded Cyprus to rescue and protect the sion for visits. A few years back one to the best tailors and goldsmiths. Today Turkish Cypriots. Turkey launched a would not dare to go close to the Buffer decaying sandstone houses and shops full -war that left indelible marks on Zone area. Now it is becoming a tourist stand beyond the broken streets that are Nicosia's physical form as witnesses of attraction. Visitors can get glimpses of hardly recognizable through the over- the violence that took place. The Buffer the deserted area from a military obser- grown vegetation. People allowed to Zone was set in place in August with no vatory. As a Greek-Cypriot citizen, I was walk through the Buffer Zone describe human concerns for compassion or any not allowed to look at the area from the car dealerships with unused cars dating spatial consideration. It splits houses observatory. I was only-allowed to look from 1974and cafes with dusty tables set and streets. through a gun hole emplacement on the as if waiting for people, exactly as they checkpoint's wall. were left before their clients ran off in Besides ruins, there is another striking hurry to escape the warfare. And the physical feature of the Buffer Zone: si- Time stands still in the Buffer Zone. This once imposing facades of mansions stand lence. It is indeed "no man's land. " The narrow stretch, only the width of a couple windowless with falling balconies and once lively Hermes Street, where Greeks of blocks along Hermes Street, has be- roofs, with crumbling walls. Only a few and Turks used to meet for commercial come a row of crumbling buildings suggestive remnants stand as witnesses exchanges, is deserted and lifeless and stripped of their old glory. There is no to its past historical and social signifi- quiet. If one stands there long enough, distinction between the building edges cance: the abandoned Christian churches one might hear the rhythmic sounds of and the streets. It is very difficult to of St. Nicholas and St. Cassianos, a slice the UN soldiers' cleated boots against perceive Hermes Street as having been of the women's marketplace and the com- the gravel as they patrol the broken one of the busiest and most important mon marketplace. These ruins have cap- streets. No one can claim "no man's streets in Nicosia until the 1960's. tured a moment of furious violence that land." No one is allowed to care for its Hermes, a major commercial spine and a took place in 1974 and not only trans- streets and buildings. Everything is dis- trade route running from Famagusta formed Hermes Street but also changed integrating beyond repair. Gate to Paphos Gate, connected the city the island's history. to the other major towns along an east- The existence of "no man's land" with its ethnic communities apart. Business is ern edge. Across the Paphos Gate frontier atmosphere and physical decay booming. With restaurants along its bastion within "no man's land" sits Ledra threatens the very life of the city within length, the border appears less threaten- Palace Hotel, the only meeting point the walls, the part that contains the city's ing. People are less skeptical and con- where Greeks and Turks occasionally past memories. The areas bordering the scious of its hostility and out of curiosity meet to discuss and solve their differ- Buffer Zone are either deserted or left to they come as close aspossible to the edge ences. Ledra Palace, an amalgam of Ve- the old and the poor who are there not to get a glimpse across. netian and Ottoman architectural mo- out of desire, but out of necessity. At- tifs, was once one of the most luxurious tracted by the low rents, the elderly and The Buffer Zone is impenetrable to the hotels in the Levant. Below its neglected the poor dare to go live close to the Cypriot communities except at its west- and scarred surface are traces of its lost "enemy," where most Cypriots fear to be. Their presence alone renders the area safer in people's minds and, conse- quently, more porous to civilian life. These people are slowly transforming the areas adjacent to the border. They are injecting life back into those lifeless quar- ters by opening up restaurants right on the frontier. Hidden in narrow streets and serving first rate kebab, feta salad, and wine for a fraction of what one would pay elsewhere, these are some of the best places to eat. They also offer something that no other places can: a view of the forbidden territory. Some of these res- taurants are so close to the frontier that one can touch the barbed wire, the sand- bags and the oil-drums that keep the Figure19: A view of the deteriorated state of Hermes Street. glory. The traces of jasmine-scented ter- that chose to remain separated across the Even if only for a few hours at a time, races where native and foreign dignitar- borders since 1974.These are Greek fami- Ledra Palace comes to symbolize a place ies used to meet are still there to see. lies or elderly people who refused to for humanitarian visits. In the new re- Today the building stands neglected as a abandon their houses in the North and unified city the palace and its surround- "home" to the United Nations' Cana- were reluctantly granted permission to ing area could become the symbol of dian troops and a place of political nego- stay. Once or twice a year these people coming together, the new administra- tiations. However, Ledra Palace has ac- can visit relatives or children living on tive center. quired another important function. It is the other side of the border. The re- the rendezvous place for those families unions take place at the site of the hotel. South of the Buffer Zone

FamagustaGate was another of the many deserted areas, too close to the border with no reason to visit. The gate itself, a unique piece of Venetian architecture was sealed to the public. Until 1985, it was used for storage. Out of the need to make the areas around the green line more porous to civilian life, the Nicosia municipality transformed Famagusta Gate into a cultural center. The building consists of an exhibit and a lecture hall with the moat surrounding the gate de- veloped into a public park. From a de- serted and sealed city entrance, Famagusta Gate now forms a magnet for the city's Greek residents.

Also under new development are the Figure 20: Edge of the Green Line. Old men sitting on their door steps. (Source: postcard) quarters of Ayios Cassianos and Chryssaliniotissa which are located to ents who remember the city before its student told me that offices, museums, the east of Famagusta Gate. These quar- division, and the descriptions of those and shops occupy the area within the ters are adjacent to Hermes Street. In the allowed to cross the line to the other side. walls. Private houses and apartment past, these areas were among the most As mentioned before, vivid in my buildings occupy the areas outside. rich and flourishing in Nicosia. Today, memory remains the image of St. Sophia both lie at the Eastern edge of the city Cathedral known today as the Selimiye Those who knew Nicosia before the 1974 bordering the buffer zone to the North mosque. The building is a distinct piece division feel a sense of disorientation and West. Like most border areas, they of Gothic architecture and a landmark while walking around once familiar are deteriorating rapidly with only a few within the dense continuous fabric of the places (Hitchens 1984, 15). The old fa- elderly living there now. The only day- walled city. One can see the massive miliar landmarks are carefully replaced time company for these people are the form with the two minarets that fly the by minarets and mosques; many bilin- sounds from the woodshops and red crescent and star of the Turkish flag gual signs were replaced by Turkish signs metalshops that are currently returning rising from afar. The cathedral was con- with the names of familiar places re- to the surrounding area, and the cry of verted into a mosque during Ottoman placed by given new Turkish names or the muezzin calling the Moslem faithful times. The building and its adjacent carelessly painted over. There is a denial to prayer. These older men and women areas are the central part of the religious of what the city has been, an attempt to sit in front of their doorsteps waiting and social life of Nicosia's northern side. give Nicosia a totally new face by cover- patiently for someone to go by. Passers- ing over its past. by give them the pleasure of greeting People who have visited both sides of the and chatting with someone even if only city say that crossing to the North of the In the twenty years that have passed by for a few minutes. Green Line in the Turkish sector is like since the city's center -the Buffer Zone making a leap to some other time, years area- has been used, years of political North of the Buffer Zone: The "Other back. People are poorer in northern status quo that have been building new Side" Nicosia and the economy is not doing memories and creating new realities. that well. Cars are run down; buildings Nicosia's most known and loved places, The image I have of the "other side" of are fewer and older. And although there what came to be known as its down- Nicosia, the Turkish side is based on are some commercialized areas, they are town, fall within the Buffer Zone frontier view I got from the rooftop of the high- not as extensive and as flourishing as the that splits the city in two. What was once rise building, the descriptions of my par- Greek areas to the South. A Turkish the city's commercial center and its once 35 thriving neighborhoods, stripped of the everyday activities that gave life to the place, have taken on a new memory of emptiness and desolation. Alternate commercial centers have developed since, one inthe Greek South along Ledra Street and Makarios Avenue, and the other in the Turkish North along Kyrenia Street and Ataturk Avenue. The physi- cal remnants that remain of the old center -the street patterns that are still discernible, some buildings that still stand and some others that are irrevoca- bly damaged by the warfare- are only hinting at its past form. The urban space, devoid of life and all activity, is slowly falling into oblivion. CHAPTER 3: BUILDING A NEW URBAN IDENTITY

This chapter looks at the formal charac- (Mumford 1938,5). The lifeless blocks of proximity, they are denied access to one teristics of city space, the kind and form the Buffer Zone, the guardposts and the another. of spaces, their location, their function, sandbags, the rival flags and the rusted their accessibility, and their sense of oil drums along its entire length -all of The question that Nicosia today poses to memory. All these can help build a new the physical elements that give form to planners and architects is not only how urban identity and encourage residents Nicosia's "invisible wall"- evoke nega- to plan development that accounts for of Nicosia to once again share their city. tive feelings and reinforce the division compatible uses on either side of the and the image of the "enemy" lying on division line awaiting for re-unification, Places and events give cities their image the other side of the line. All of these but how to transform the Buffer Zone to and identity. Places, however, are spaces elements have the same kind of charac- create the conditions within the physical claimed by feelings. In Tuan's words ter and communicative power that Rich- setting that will slowly give the two "space becomes place as we get to know ard Sennet saw in the graffiti on the walls Cyptriot communities the opportunities it better and endow it with value" (Tuan, of New York City: "the walls of the "I" for to experiencing each other's culture. Yi-Fu 1977,6). And, meaning is assigned dominate others who had no choice in The question is whether the Buffer Zone to places as a result of people interacting their making, who cannot participate in area that now signifies division can be and using a space. their form, who can only submit to them transformed into a place that encourages -though with no awe ... This "I" estab- social contact. As I walked through the streets of a lishes an aggressive rather than an ex- divided Nicosia in the summer of 1992,1 ploratory relation to the environment" In the search for an answer, Lewis realized the power our surroundings (Sennet 1990, 201). Such physical fea- Mumford points out in "The Culture of have in shaping our thoughts, emotions tures leave no room for different possi- Cities", a prerequisite for creating an ef- and actions and the impact they have on bilities other than that of separation and fective symbiosis and co-operative liv- the way we behave. What came to mind incompatibility among the island's two ing requires planners and architects to while walking along Nicosia's dividing communities. In the end, the problem of "coordinate on the basis of more essen- line were the words of Lewis Mumford a divided Nicosia is that of living in a tial human values than the will-to-power that the "mind takes form in the city; and place where two cultures exist within and the will-to-profits, a host of social in turn urban forms condition the mind" meters of one another, but despite their functions and processes that we have hitherto misused in the building of cities street and the plaza people are visually the exchanges and communication that and polities, or which we have never available to watch. Through visual con- can take place among the city's residents rationally taken advantage" (Mumford tact one starts noticing other people and are limited. 1938, 5). what they are doing. If a plaza, or a similar kind of public space is not readily Beyond physical character, there is an- People and the physical space available, then the possibility of sitting other dimension to the city that makes it and watching others and randomly meet- a stimulating place: its culturally diverse Urban space is the stage on which every- ing people is not available either. Thus, residents. As Mumford againpoints out, day life takes place. What people do and how they relate to others does not only depend on needs; behavior is also af- fected by our surroundings. The con- figuration and the form of the urban space where our life unfolds stimulates or inhibits certain behaviors through what Jon Lang calls its "affordances" (Lang, 1987). Thus, the physical and formal characteristics of a place bring forth possibilities for activities that would otherwise not be considered.

The physical setting permits, accommo- dates or provides opportunities for spe- cific events and different types of human interaction to take place. In the street, or the urban plaza, one is physically among others sharing the same space. Being physically in the same space is in itself a force of contact. In public spaces like the Figure 21: Ledra Street in the city "through the concentration of and neighborhood. A new sailing ship, space builds its constituency-gets people the means of intercourse in the market a caravann, stopping at the city, may into new habits, like eating outdoors; it and the meeting place, alternative modes bring a new dye for wool, a new glaze for induces them to use new paths" (Whyte, of living present themselves: the deeply the potter's dish, a new system of signs 1988, 105). rutted ways of the village cease to be for long distance communication, or a coercive and the ancestral goals cease to new thought about human destiny" The Ledra and Kyrenia Street be all-sufficient: strange men and (Mumford 1938, 4-5). pedestrianization project in Nicosia it- women, strange interests, and stranger self, is an example of the power that gods loosen the traditional ties of blood This interactive relationship between the transformations in the physical charac- people and the physical setting, the way ter of an urban setting have in stimulat- the environment and other people stimu- ing new patterns of behavior and changes late new behaviors, is clearly demon- in the way people perceive a space. Ledra strated in Nicosia itself. We have al- Street is a very busy street and the major ready seen that exclusionary practices commercial spine for the Southern sec- through physical reminders in the streets tion. The 1974war caused the disconnec- and spaces of the city, not only perpetu- tion of Ledra from Kyrenia Avenue on ate the division in the minds of the people the North. For several years people and forbid human contact, but also stimu- would not go anywhere near the late negative thoughts. guardpost at its end; they would stop about a block away and turn in another Changes in the physical setting stimu- direction. The paving of Ledra Street late changes in people's perceptions by from Eleftheria Square to its end was bringing forth new ways of relating to undertaken in the summer of 1989. A the space. Transformations in the built water fountain was positioned only a environment stimulate interest because few meters from the guardpost. These of the opportunities for new activities minor transformations in the physical that open up that were not available characteristics of the street have altered

Figure 22: The Ledra Street guard post became before. As William Whyte points out, its character and the way it is presently a popular background for photos. "supply creates demand. A good new used. Now tourists and locals stroll all the way to the manned guardpost, sit remained dead and empty. People did that Richard Sennet sees in the modern around the edge of the fountain and not go close out of fear of being too close city when he states that "the modern city watch strangers and friends go by. Many to the enemy. It took only a few daring can turn people outward, not inward; go all the way to the edge to speak to the elders opening up small restaurants ad- rather than wholeness, the city can give soldiers and take a photograph with jacent to the edge to turn the desrted area them experience of otherness. The power them. In fact, the fountain and the Ledra into major attraction for tourists and lo- of the city to re-orient people in this way Street guardpost have become a favorite cals. People and human activities ren- lies in its diversity; in the presence of destination and a background for snap- dered the dreaded borderline less threat- difference people have at least the possi- shots, to tourists and locals alike. The ening and attracted other people. bility to step outside themselves" (Sennet availability of a more welcoming and 1990, 123). humane pedestrian setting, brought life If physical space and other people can back into the once dreaded space. The influence and change behavior patterns, A space of possibility is a space that a new formal characteristicsof Ledra Street as we have seen in the examples of Ledra space that draws people together with its -the fountain, the benches, the trees-have Street and the areas of along the Green public spaces and buildings-such as allowed new choices in using the street Line edge, it is possible that the Buffer streets, plazas and public institutions- and encouraged visual and social con- Zone that now signifies division be trans- that encompass a range of everyday: ac- tact among pedestrians, strangers and formed into a place that encourages so- tivities that are essential for our well friends. cial contact and draws people together. being, activities that people choose to The question is how can that happen. take part in, as well as activities we are A similar example of the power that How can the space of the Buffer Zone unfamiliar with. physical transformations have in chang- emptiness and desolation become a space ing long term behavior patterns, but also of possibility? A space for possibility is a space that of the power that the presence of people fosters visual contact. As Lewis Mumford has in drawing other people into the A Space ofPossibility stated, "for the city tofunction adequately same space is demonstrated in the areas must foster face-to-face meeting" adjacent to the Buffer Zone, at the Green A space of possibility offers a range of (Mumford 1938,58). The possibility for Line edge. As we have seen in the previ- activities and choices that provide op- contact lies in being in the same space ous chapter, for years the residential portunities for experiencing the unfa- and permitting diverse events for people quarters bordering the Buffer Zone have miliar and new. It has the same features with different interests. Mumford ar- gues that "the city is a place for multiply- the viewer with diverse activities along Beyond the urge for making money and ing happy chances and making the most the street - with choices of places and the everyday basic human needs, curios- of unplannable opportunities" and that buildings to spend time in, choices of ity -learning about the unknown- is one "vivid human contacts must appear in a places to go to and pass through, of places of the most important factors that moti- hundred different places, ..., and in each to pause and rest and view the city. At- vates people: seeing places unfamiliar to area they must be assisted by an appro- tention is also captured by contrast and them, seeing things that are rare and priate architectural form" (Mumford variation, the juxtaposition of memory unique that are not readily available ev- 1938, 58). and present within the urban space. erywhere, seeing the artifacts of differ- ent cultures and of people not similar to However, simply meeting is not enough. The most prominent feature of the di- them. As Richard Sennet suggests cap- People need to experience something in vided Nicosia is the lack of opportunities turing attention requires "making things the space, to share in the-experiencewith for the city's people to share the city's in an exposed way" and creating the other people. space or its collective life -the services, conditions of the unexpected (Sennet the monuments, the public spaces and 1990). A space of possibility is a space that buildings. To foster a positive climate draws people together by capturing their for social contact, the city space must New and out of the ordinary things at- attention and stirring their curiosity contain the elements that encourage so- tract human curiosity and people's at- through the human activities that it cialintimacy like public spaces and parks, tention. The power of the unexpected houses. Gehl argues that "when some- shops and pedestrian streets and a vari- and filling the space with characteristics one is doing something there is the ten- ety of public buildings and services. encourage the exploratory relation of dency for others to join in, to either par- people to the urban space. ticipate themselves or experience what Thus, a space of possibility is a space others are doing" and that "something with opportunities for coming together, How can this be done? What could bring happens because something happens" for human contact and sharing experi- people together? According to William (Gehl 1987, 77). In the urban space indi- ences, and of new cultural and educa- Whyte (Whyte 1980), location is a pre- viduals and events can influence and tional choices located next to the city's requisite for success in drawing people stimulate one another. memories, next to its historic sites and together. He concludes that the number monuments. one factor that draws people to a place is One can capture attention by intriguing other people. "To draw people a space should tap a strong flow of them" which and events. The most important ele- ploration from its residents? It can be makes location important. The heart of ments in assembling are the public spaces done by juxtaposing different activities, the downtown is ideal as in the case of with a concentration of different func- by creating things or events to look at so Nicosia's Buffer Zone. However, the tions surrounding them. Another char- that the person stops and looks to see kind of activity is also important. acteristic that assembles people is a com- what is happening. The urban space and pact system of public spaces to encour- the buildings allow activities to happen Another method is to create pedestrian age pedestrian traffic and they in turn draw life from the activi- settings along paths of everyday activity * Allow the "integration of various ac- ties. to provide people with more chance for tivities and functions in and around pub- casual contact. Squares, parks and pe- lic spaces allows the people involved to Though human curiosity is one of the destrian streets encourage human inter- function together and to stimulate and factors that motivate behavior, of equal action, learning, communicating and the inspire one another" (Gehl 1980, 103). importance is the fact that people also sharing of pleasant experiences because e Have an "inviting" quality -a quality operate with intention. They walk to of the opportunities to see and meet oth- that psychologically affects people and and from city places and buildings for ers (Whyte 1980). motivates them to go to places. Places specific reasons. Activities that have to that are inviting create stimulation and a do with everyday life and basic human Public open space can be a place to bring reason to go to places. needs motivate people to use a space: people together and encourage interac- * Be tied to a place or destination. Public working, moving around, seeking spiri- tion. Public places can give identity to places can be used to watch something, tual satisfaction and physical recreation, the city and bring its residents together, visit shops, community centers, or parks. and economic exchange. A study of the but to make this happen, informal public They can be invitations to get people into city of Jerusalem, a previously divided spaces must be equally accessible to the same space. Related to this is also the city between Arabs and Jews, has shown everybody, visible and filled with di- possibility for the public to engage in that even after 30 years of reunification, verse activities (Whyte 1980). activities that they haven't originally crossing over still remains a highly con- planned which results in drawing people scious act; it occurs under specific cir- Jan Gehl in "Lifebetween Buildings" lists to certain spaces and drawing them un- cumstances and for well-defined pur- some of the most important characteris- expectedly together. poses. Arabs cross over for employ- tics of public spaces. They must: ment, to use service and commercial fa- e Encourage the assembling of people How does an urban space stimulate ex- cilities like hospitals, police stations, and government and municipal buildings boundaries take place as dictated by define and affect people's perceptions and offices, or to use centrally located mutual needs and interests" (Romann and patterns of behavior in the city. Many parks for recreation. Jews cross the terri- 1991,31). events may be inconceivable until the torial boundary to visit religious or his- opportunity for their occurrence actu- torical sites, or attracted by the sights ally presents itself. Opening up new and smells of the souk, they shop for Building a New Image in Nicosia possibilities for interaction and learning special items in the Arab markets about others even if it is just by watching, (Romann 1991,48-49). The most memo- It is essential to build a new image for has power to transform our perceptions rable places for members of both com- Nicosia. When wounds based on past of others. munities are the streets of Jerusalem's experience exist, stereotypes become Central Business District and major pub- rooted in memory and are many times The structure of physical elements give lic institutions-hotels, museums, the post not confronted. As Richard Sennet stated cities their image. Lynch, in his study of office- which are highly visible land- "people who live in sealed communities Boston, concluded that people perceive marks. are diminished in their development. the city through its spatial sequences: The wounds of past experience, the ste- through its paths (movement), its edges The Jerusalem case, has also shown that reotypes which have become rooted in (boundaries), its districts, its "nodes" people permit the temporary use of their memory, are not confronted. Recogni- (places of intensive activity) and its land- territorial space by others, but object to tion scenes that might occur at borders marks. In Nicosia's Buffer Zone few of the permanent presence of others are the only chance that people have to these sequences or landmarks remain; (Romann 1991). Contacts between the confront, fixed sociological pictures rou- many of these are scattered (describe the residents of Jerusalem occurred because tinized in time. It is only in crossing the few that exist). Creating new elements of economic specialization and spatial boundary when people can see others as are an essential part of Nicosia's new proximity; people were competing for if for the first time" (Sennet 1990, 201). image. business. Interpersonal contacts also took place in the workplace, the marketplace, We have seen so far that it is possible to The physical elements of urban space in public institutions such as the post give a greater spectrum of possibilities can create an opportunity for new con- office, hospitals and universities, and in conducive to social interaction through nections. InNicosia the north-south con- the playground. As the researchers dis- the design of the urban space. Buildings, nections are the most important, with covered, "daily movement across ethnic activities, events -the use of urban space- the intersections of Hermes Street and the main access streets running north- * Diversity: Nicosia has few places be, it must offer special activities for south forming focal points for the re- where people can come together. The people of different ages and of different organization of the inner city. The loca- center of the city where most commercial interests. Acitivies would be fostered for tion of institutions and government at activities take place lacks places to meet, different interests and age groups. these focal points would improve the places to rest while taking a break, even cityscape and restore the flow of urban places to pause while deciding what to e Memories: Memory is one way of movement across the BufferZone. North- do and where to go next. Cultural activi- bringing people together while preserv- southpaths like Ledra and Kyrenia streets ties are also limited. Administrative fa- ing tradition. These are the things that could be reinforced to link important cilities lack space. people do not want to forget. As Relph sites and give the opportunity stroll along suggests, a "deep human need exists for and cross over. Connections could be In the new center of Nicosia, there would associations with significant places". made through strengthening existing be public spaces surrounded by major (Relph 1977). People need the memories sequences or views that are now broken, civic and municipal institutions as pub- in order to extract meaning from the reviving old activities i.e. renovating the lic amenities that attract both locals and surroundings, to make sense of what a old market, and offering new activities, tourists and induce further growth. place is and what it was. Within a city, and building institutional, educational Choices would be offered and there memory involves the patterns of interac- and cultural buildings like a city mu- would be a variety of activities for a tion between people and the elements seum, the city hall, public squares and variety of interests. defining the space of their everyday life. small pocket parks. * Uniqueness: Today Nicosia's down- Monuments, historic sites and patterns Movement across and within the site town-the BufferZone area and the walled of collective memory give a city its past. with attractions along the way will de- city- does not have the elements essen- In Nicosia, the common marketplace is a termine in many ways whether people tial to make it a lively place and to attract memory that both communities shared are drawn into the area and where they residents. There are few cultural facili- in the past and can share again in the will go. ties, no university or important muse- future. Streets and roads, administra- ums, no government offices, and few tion buildings, public services, places of Ways to Build A New Image other attractions that draw the people. historic value to either of the communi- To become a place where people want to ties, and religious buildings are other elements that they can share .

Patterns of activities that gave the place life in the past could do the same in the future by re-using certain buildings - renovating and expanding the old mar- ket, enhancing historical sites and build- ings, and linking them to other impor- tant areas. There are also points and areas that existed before and are no longer used which can induce further growth.

Memory and the stressing of continu- ities can be done in Nicosia by strength- ening the existing street patterns and using historic buildings and sites. Spe- cifically, this could include renovating and expanding the old market, linking the commercial streets of Ledra and Kyrenia and re-designing the Selimiye area -which is of historical and cultural importance- as a cultural center Figure 23: Diagram of proposed activity nodes and major pedestrian routes into the BufferZone area

46 CHAPTER 4: ARRIVING AT NEW PLACES

As indicated in the previous chapter a and activities is the most important fac- place involves the relationship of people tor motivating people to use a space. As to a physical setting; meanings emerge William Whyte points out, "how a walk- from the experience of a space and in way works depends very much on what turn influence how people behave. Ur- is on either side of it" (Whytel988,77). ban design can affect people's experi- ence by offerring possibilities that cap- Once special areas are slowly introduced ture their attention and interest: meet- that allow people to cut across, the nega- ing, seeing and hearing others can create tive perceptions of people will also start a background for further social contact changing. and interaction. As the meeting place for all of Nicosia's residents, the Buffer Zone Two major activity spines -one cultural area must consist of elements that give and one commerical- that intersect will the city vitality, that stir people's curios- be the organizing framework of the in- ity and motivate them to visit the place. ner city. The north-south streets linking The space in between North and South is the two sectors,and crossing Hermes envisioned as a series of spaces and ac- Street will form the focal points for the tivities that bring people there and moti- organization of the inner city and the vate them to stay. It is a place for cultural location for public and government activities inviting, shopping, recreation, buildings and outdoor spaces. These business, and learning. It is a magnet for special areas, points of political and so- tourists who come to see a unique place cial focus, will improve the cityscape where two cultures co-exist. and restore the urban fabric across the Buffer Zone. The strategy is to develop a spatial frame- work for public life that members of both communities can share. Diversity of uses 'U

F -I------~%- LU 1- -- .1~ w -

U I U I~~L !5IN a

Figure 24: Figure-ground plan of the existing site condition a~w~M~IW

F UPIintw

Jim

Figure 25: Figure-ground plan with proposed public open spaces Figure 26: Phasel -The City Hall and City Hall Square

50 *A Common Destination: The City Kyrenia and Ledra streets on their way Hall and City Hall Square to shop, to visit the city or go other ser- vices in the city center. We have seen that a space associated with a necessary service or an everyday The City Hall activity could attract people, draw them The City Hall is a building for both com- into the space and generate further inter- munities. It the place where meetings est and interaction. As Gehl pointed out, concerning the city can take place. The "integration of various activities and City Hall gives them a space to work and functions in and around public spaces exchange ideas about the city. The build- allows the people involved to function ing will also include an exhibition hall together and to stimulate and inspire where local artists exhibit their work and one another" (Gehl, 1987, 103). The City a public display area for on-going com- Hall and the square is envisioned as a mon projects in Nicosia. space of this kind. The Square The proposed site is located at the inter- One of the most important features in the section of Hermes Street and Ledra- redevelopment of Nicosia's Buffer Zone Kyrenia streets which run north-south. is the introduction of small urban spaces. This intersection is a focal point because The City Hall Square serves this pur- these streets are the most traveled routes pose. The space becomes a fore-court to in the walled city. The commercial corri- the City Hall, offering an outdoor sitting dors of Ledra to the South and Kyrenia to place where the people working in the the North meet and intersect with the City Hall could spend their break hours east-west axis of the Buffer Zone. Buses to sit and talk, or have their lunch. drop people off at the two bus terminals right outside the walls, thus, generating a strong flow of people coming down I

Figure 27: Phase 2-The Arts and Crafts Center and the Public Library oNew Cultural Opportunities: The calls for exhibition spaces galleries where Arts and Crafts Center and Park visitors can watch a the local craftsmen at work and where local artwork includ- As Gehl pointed out, "when someone is ing rare crafts from both sectors can be doing something there is the tendency exhibited. for others to join in, to either participate themselves or experience what others The Park are doing, ... something happens because something happens" (Gehl, 1987,75-77). The Park is another introduction of small An urban space with things to see, do, urban spaces in the city. It is proposed as look at, and/or go to, stimulate the use of a landscapd outdoor space located be- space. Seeingpeople doing creative work tween Selimiye Mosque, the Arts and captures attention and stirs the curiosity. Crafts Center, the Public Library and the Market. The proposed Arts and Crafts Center allows residents to come into contact with the creative aspects of each others' culture. The Arts and Crafts Center and the Hermes Street developmentwill build on further reinforcing cultural contact.

The Arts and Crafts Center

The proposed Arts and Crafts Center is located adjacent to SelimiyeMosque. The complex includes a museum, workshops and accomodations for the local crafts- men and the people interested to learn about crafts. In addition, the program TII

Figure 28: Phase 3 -Hermes Street revitalization

54 eNew Cultural Opportunities: with the adjacent Arts and Crafts Center Hermes Street is envisioned as a place where visitors are given a chance to see and actually In the past, Hermes Stree was the place of experience one aspect of the island's rich everyday economic activity between the cultural heritage. Greeks and the Turks who were brought together by its markets and specialty The Arts and Crafts Workshops and small shops. Indigenous pastries and breads galleries will be located along Hermes. were sold in bakery shops that stood Shops and workshops line the street with next to goldsmiths, tailor stores and fab- permanent and semi-permanent struc- ric shops. tures that users can adjust to their needs. These will be given to craftsmen associ- Building on the old memories, the pro- ated with the Center who want to work posal is to revitalize Hermes Street as a on their own. Hermes Street develop- major corridor that combines restaurants ment will be an extension of the Arts and with workshops. The City Hall and its Crafts Center and Museum where locals square at one end and a smaller open from all over the island will be able to space at the other end of Hermes serve as intermingle with the tourists to see the two activity poles. The idea is to create a local artists at work. flexible space which could be used by locals for different activities such as fairs and exhibits and where visitors, both local and international tourists, can see craftsmen from the two indigenous cul- tures at work. For the locals, however, the development will have an addititonal incentive: it will be an opportunity for business, for exhibiting and selling their work. Hermes Street in combination a

Figure 29: Phase 4 -Old Markret Renovation

56 *New life from an Old Link: The The farmer's market is one of the few Renovated Market traditional places that is associated with coming together in Nicosia itself. The "The markets provide settings in which market is the place that Greeks and Turks diverse groups interact under conditions traditionally shared in the past and where likely to engender positive attitudes". In they exchanged greetings and commodi- the marketplace "contacts cut across tra- ties between themselves. The most im- ditional ethnic barriers" (Sommer, 1989, portant activity was the Saturday mar- 57-82). As Robert Sommer points out, ket when all the producers would bring the farmer's market, where growers sell their products, set up temporary struc- to consumers their produce, is one of the tures to lay their produce and sell them. most successful means for bringing a This is a pattern that is still alive on either large number of people into an urban side of the line. space on a regular basis because buying and selling food is one of the basic hu- The idea is to renovate and extend the man activities the farmer's market is one old market part which is still in use on of the institutions that fulfills social and the Turkish side and connect it to the economic objectives without excluding Greek market on the South side. other activities centered around it (Sommer, 1989,57-82). The location on the two markets is im- portant because they are presently be- A living example of how the market- tween the two most important Turkish place works are again the markets of religious centers: the Selimiye and the Jerusalem. The market, as indicated in Omeriye Mosques. Thus, an intentional the previous chapter is one of the most visit to the mosque might be combined attractive functions of Jerusalem's two with going to the market, or drinking a cultures, bringing them together into the cup of coffee, or visiting some of the same space. workshops along the way...... 132 t4. I4~I I

Figure 30: Overall Proposal Scheme URBAN. OPEN SPACES

SHOPS & WORKSHOPS

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 1. City Hall 2. Arts and Crafts Center & Museum

3. Public Library

59 60 A FINAL REMARK

Although architectural design by itself see and learn exists. proplonged, not only through history, cannot determine the way that people but also through the physical environ- deal with one another, the theories pre- In designing for the Buffer Zone in ment. The duality of the Cypriot society sented in this thesis indicate that the way Nicosia of most important concern is to must be accepted and used for social re- space is configured does affect how provide activities that stir people's curi- conciliation rather than destruction. If people perceive their environment. Most osity and desire to learn about each oth- the above suggestions are implemented, importantly the theories indicate that ers' unique culture. To stimulate this both groups will be part of the life of the physical settings and activities can pro- curiosity and interaction I proposed the larger city and eventually people will vide opportunities of meeting and com- following: The construction of a City interact in their daily activities. They ing into contact with other people. Hall for both communities as a center of will do so in the new marketplace, a contact; opportunities for cultural ex- place of shared memories. They will Changes in the built environment do not change via a new arts and crafts cultural learn about each other in the Arts and always result in changes in the ways center and-museum; the revitilization of Crafts Center. Unless the city is willing people behave. The latter changes are set Hermes Street where the two communi- to implement change and provide for by people and their culture. However, ties interacted in the past with arts and such essential opportunities for interac- day to day activities are part of the larger crafts workshops, exhibition areas and a tion the division will remain. collection of influences on social behav- variety of other shops; the renovation of ior and of people's perceptions of the the old market. All these activity centers This proposal aims at building bridges settings of their everyday life. Daily are interconnected with a series of public for bringing the alienated Greek and activities are for all: everybody works, open spaces and gardens. Turkish Cypriots together. I believe that everybody eats, everybody needs to rest the process of re-familiarization of the at times and rush at times, almost every- As we have seen in the first chapter of two groups can start at a cultural level, body is eager and curious to see and this thesis, during the last three decades and the suggestions I have made can learn about new things, to be educated. generations of young Cypriots have create new connections -both physical A physical setting can provide for all this grown up without ever meeting a mem- and social- that encourage cultural con- essential needs and at the same can stir ber of the other communities. Stereo- tact in the divided city. The divided city curiosity and sharing if willingness to types and the idea of the enemy is is not a homogeneous environment and will probably never be. However, it de- serves to be a city. BIBLIOGRAPHY

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