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Montblanc-Challenge Montblanc-Challenge . experience the mountain & yourself . Montblanc-Challenge The area around Chamonix is one of the most terrific and spectacular mountain-areas in Europe. You cannot find such a high number of needles and peaks combined with extraordinary glacier-landscapes elsewhere in the Alps. Furthermore the rock is a wonderful orange granite that invites for beautiful climbs in every difficulty. Those who want something special can find interesting long and short mixed climbing trips in the area as well. All the hikes with or Aíguilles du Midi without crampons in the area are outstanding because of the unique panorama and nature. On the following pages I am going to point out three Ref. Du Cosmique possible routes to the top of central Europe, that we have used in the past and that make sense to us if we Ref. follow special strategies. Each one can be used as for du Grands an ascent as well as a descent Mulets On the following pages I shall point out the three Montblanc du Tacul routes - the old route via Ref. du Grands Mulets (in the middle), the three monts route via Aiguille du Ref. du Midi + Ref. du Cosmique and the route via Dome Gouter du Gouter (left) – the decision which route we shall Mont Maudit take, will be taken regarding current weather & snow-conditions at Chamonix after we have met at the camp-site “Mere de Glace” on our 1st day at 12:00 (sharp) or in the following days. Dome du Gouter First we are going to set goals, define rules for our joint time on the glacier, check the equipment and after that we shall head directly for the mountain to start Montblanc with the acclimatisation-process! © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 2 Montblanc-Challenge Therefore we shall leave the campsite around 15:00 / 15:30 and take the cable-car to Aguille du Midi to reach an altitude of approximately 3.750m around 17:00 and descend via the Plan-ridge to Refuge du Cosmique. As the first day in high altitudes means stress to our body we shall stay there for the night without doing anything. This will make it easier for our bodies to acclimatise. Our 2nd day is reserved to combine the necessary with the outstanding. The necessary is to stay in altitudes above 3.300m. The longer you stay in these altitudes the better you will feel and the more powerful you will be on the attempt to climb higher altitudes. The outstanding is some technical training around altitudes up to 3.800m at Pointe Lachenal or climbing the Cosmique ridge or climbing to the summit of Montblanc du Tacul 4.283m. However from that point on we shall keep it in mind: “Plans are not there to be executed, they should help you to reach your goals.“ Another possibility is to traverse the Planridge and climb Aguille du Plan. After day two we are ready for the main summit. Which route we shall choose will be decided after day two when we have experienced your abilities and the actual weather- and snow-conditions. Flying above the “Glacier du Geant” On Glacier du Geant View from Aguille du Midi to the east © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 3 mc – old route The old route was first climbed in August of the year 1786 by Michel Paccard (a doctor at Chamonix) and Jaques Balmat (a cristal-searcher from the valley). It starts at 1.150m in the little village “Le Mont” and leads us along the wood-ridge of “Montagne de la Côte“, that leads up steep between Glacier des Bossons and Glacier du Taconnaz. First milestone is the Chalet des Pyramides at 1.800m – a hut for having lunch. Next milestone on the route is the area where we change rock with ice at „La Jonction“ roughly at 2.600m. The following 450 altimetres will lead us through the maze of crevasses to Refuge du Grands Mulets at 3 . 050 m . Our ascent passes "Pic Wilson" 3.267m, "Rocher de l´Hereux Retour" 3.599m, "Petit Plateau" 3.530m to "Grand Plateau" at 4.000m. A beautiful hike passing ice-towers and crevasses. At the “Grand Plateau” we have to decide whether we head towards the East to join the “three-monts- route” to the summit or the West to join the “Gouter-route” with a lot of other climbers. The route can also be used to descend from the mountain. If you are an extraordinary good skier, this Route of the first ascenders route could also be made with skis (see left). Skiing above Grands Mulets Bivouac near “Grand Plateau” Refuge du Grands Mulets © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 4 mc – Gouterroute To get to the Gouterroute we have to go to Les Houches with the car / shuttlebus to use the cable-car that leads to Bellevue – a ridge at 1.800m with a beautiful view over the area. From there we take a rack and pinion train to Nid d´Aigle at 2.380m. This is our starting point of the route. After 2,5h walk we shall reach Refuge du Tete Rousse. One option is to sleep at the hut and start early the next day – a three hours climb to Refuge du Gouter at 3.900m. Another option is to climb straight to the hut. From there the route leads up to an easy snow-slope to Dome du Gouter 4.302m. After a short descent of about twenty alitmetres we only need 2,5 hours to stand at the top of Central Europe. Where and if we shall make a bivouac will be decided on our way. With the right equipment (and be sure we take care, that you have the right equipment and the right technique) this night in the five-billion-stars-hotel will be another unforgettable experience for you! For the descent we shall either use the At 3.200m near Refuge du Tete Rousse same route as we ascended or via the old route directly to Chamonix. Near the summit at sunset Above the clouds Sunset on the top of Europe © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 5 mc – three monts-route After a night or a restday at the campsite the cable-car will take us from Chamonix to the Aguille du Midi. After the already-known descent along the Plan-Ridge we shall climb the slope of Montblanc du Tacul in about 3-4hours. Traversing the north-face of Mont Maudit we shall reach the steepest part of our journey – an 80m-slope of 50°. But with a perfect belay & the preparation in the days before it will be an easy, enjoyable climb for you. From the Maudit-ridge, where we shall have an excellent view on the main-summit, it will take us another 45min to reach the bivouac-place on Col du Brenva. With the right equipment (and be sure we take care, that you have the right equipment and the right technique) this night in the five-billion-stars-hotel will be another unforgettable experience for you! Sunrise on the top of Europe A 80m-slope of 50° - the technical crux of our route Refuge Cosmique in the foreground – Montblanc du Tacul on the left © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 6 mc – three monts-route On the next day we shall climb to the main summit (if everything is all right with the team and the weather) and celebrate on the roof of Central-Europe. After descending all the way down to the Aiguille du Midi we shall return to Chamonix with the cable-car the same day to Chamonix. Besides these Alpine physical challenges we lead you through a self- experiencing process regarding themes like dealing with fear, challenges, frustration, performance, boldness, stress, success, time, trust, team, leadership, communication etc.. This process can be attended voluntarily and will be provided by specially designed group-sessions and personal coaching if you want. Furthermore we shall make debriefs and provide you with questions to think about while climbing. It is your decision to steer the On our way to the summit depth of the process by your commitment of participation. The team of 2006 on the top of Europe 4.807m The Cosmique-ridge – a possible supplement adventure © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 7 Montblanc-Challenge The advantage of the “three monts-route” is that acclimatising is easier and that we use the cable-car to bring us to an altitude of 3.600m. The disadvantage is that this route is more often done than the old route, avalanche-danger can force us to go back and we cannot claim to have climbed all the way to the summit because of using the cable-car. The advantage of the “Gouterroute” is that the avalanche-danger is neglect able. In 2016 we found a new strategy to prevent the hugh amount of climbers that use this route. The advantage of the “the old route” is that we can claim to have climbed all on our own, the scenery is even more gripping & exciting and hardly anybody takes this route at all as it is physically more demanding. Another advantage is that the avalanche- danger is neglectable at this route. The disadvantage is that we start our climb at an altitude of 1.150m and climb without the aid of cable-cars. Anyway the decision which route fits best depends on the snow- and weather-conditions. On our way to Col de la Brenva – facing Montblanc 4.807m On the summit of Montblanc du Tacul 4.283m © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 8 Montblanc-Challenge Our bivouac-place near Col du Brenva – the summit of Montblanc in the background Montblanc in early light Just before dinner in the bivouac in September 2003 © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 9 Montblanc-Challenge On our way to Maudit extra challenge Maudit-ridge Below the seracs of Maudit On the ridge to the cablecar The Plan-ridge – a possible extra adventure Our oldest delegate (69) © Mai-18 - challenging experiences 10 Montblanc-Challenge “Dent du Geant” in magical light Strong wind on day 2 Snowwaves on 4.000m Team 2011 on the summit! Bivouacplace at 4.300m More pinnacles to climb .
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