Au Vieux Campeur 1 rock&ice 1 THE AUTHOR

Marco Romelli, native of Lombardy in Northern , has been a mountaineer for twenty years, concen- trating mainly on the massif. Illustrator of guidebooks and magazines, his passion for the does not stop at climbing, v2 which runs alongside drawing and photography in the mont blanc constant search for a complete aesthetic experience. LA CARTE CLUB AU VIEUX DE REMISE CAMPEUR C’EST : 10% SUR CERTAINS ACHATS classic & plaisir ET PARFOIS MIEUX…

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Marco Romelli

Thanks go to Alpine Guide for the Marco Romelli interest he has shown in this new book. Thanks to Alpine Guide Raymond Angéloz (manager of the Cabane d’Orny), Alpine Guide Armando Chanoine (manager of the Monzino hut) and Alpine Guide Hervé Thivierge (www.grimpailler.com) for invaluable infor- mation on pre-existing itineraries and new routes. A special thank you to Elise Longin for her work and support throughout the writing of this guidebook, from repetitions of routes to historical research. Thanks also to Lucie Havelkova for indispensable classic & plaisir & classic

“logistical support”, Alpine Guide Alessio Conz (www. lagoraiavventura.it) and Valentino Cividini for numer- ous photos, Enrico Mazzoleni for having given the SYMBOLE DU CHOIX, DU CONSEIL ET DU PRIX author the “bug” of passion for the magical world of Mont Blanc. Thanks to all the friends who have posed for photos, submitted images and accompanied the author pa- tiently on many repetitions and photography recces which were essential to the realization of this work. mont blanc

Crédits photos : C. Durando - Test Flow/AVC - S. Jaulin

AU VIEUX CAMPEUR EN : 9 VILLES

9 788897 299219 > € 24,50 PARIS QUARTIER LATIN SALLANCHES ALBERTVILLE LYON TOULOUSE/LABÈGE MARSEILLE THONON-LES-BAINS STRASBOURG GRENOBLE

www.auvieuxcampeur.fr Preface

Idea Montagna has collaborated closely with ADMO (Associa- Opening a book about Mont Blanc is always a moving experience for me, tion for Bone Marrow Donation) - in the Climb for Life project, a which I’ve dreamed of so much and which has given me so which aims to raise awareness about stem cell transplants (and the lives which this process can save) in the mountain- many dreams in return. eering community. First of all, I remember the moment when I discovered these mountains, www.admo.it - www.climbforlife.it at fourteen years old, thanks to Gaston Rebuffat’s beautifully entitled book, “Mont Blanc, jardin féérique”*. I am immensely grateful to Rébuffat, who through this book revealed to me a true high-altitude treasure, something I’d only dreamed of, PHOTOGRAPHS confusedly and ardently, coming from a flat region with All the photos were taken by the author, apart from images of huts and those specified below: no mountains. Raymond Angéloz pag. 20 e 31 in basso; Carlo Barbolini pag.239; Davide Barcella pag. 225; Emer Bavelloni pag. 57 in And then there are numerous memories of hours and alto; Davide Bordet pag. 116 in basso; Armando Chanoine pag. 215; Valentino Cividini pag. 50, 82, 92, 171 (alto), 177, 226, 235, 240, 263; Alessio Conz pag. 227, 228 e 229 in alto; Gian Paolo De Nicolò pag. 210 (alto), 214; Fabio Di Fede pag. 44 in hours spent there, in the heart of these mountains, which basso; Elise Longin pag. 35 in basso, 234, 283; Enrico Mazzoleni pag. 128, 161 (alto), 166, 168, 229 (basso), 238 (basso); little by little have become engraved in my memory. As well as Francesco Melchiori pag. 254; Jeffrey Moskowitz pag. 99; Brendan O’Sullivan pag. 133 (basso); Claude Quenot pag. 112. these, though, are the precious faces of so many companions, illumi- nated by the light and shade of the mountains. Faces alight with effort or enthusiasm, with fatigue or joy, with worry or relief, with wonder or

First Edition: June 2012 confusion... ISBN: 978-88-97299-21-9 Let this book, so clearly the product of a true lifetime passion, reveal to Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo Via Guido Rossa, 17 - 35016 Piazzola sul Brenta PD - Italy its readers those great places where dreams are made, along the main Tel. +39 049 9601797 roads or secret corners of this inexhaustible “enchanted garden”. Let it [email protected] - www.ideamontagna.it guide you in the realisation of those dreams, accomplished and wholly General Coordination: Francesco Cappellari shared in that unique relationship between climbers. Graphic Design: Rossella Benetollo - Officina Creativa - Padova Layout, image processing, maps: Irene Cappellari Illustrations/sketches: Marco Romelli Patrick Gabarrou English translation: Lynne Hempton Printed by: Litocenter Srl per conto di Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo Cover Photo: Cosmiques Arête (Photo: Marco Romelli) * Jardin féérique: enchanted garden

All rights reserved. Reproduction, including partial reprodution of text, drawings and photographs prohibited.

Warnings: Rock climbing is a potentially fatal activity. The present guide is intended only for experienced rock climbers who are aware of the risks involved. This guide was compiled with the utmost care but there is no guarantee against the possibility of errors or omissions. The use of the information contained herrein is at the user’s own risk. The author and the publisher do not accept any responsability for any misadventure or any other consequences of its use. 5 031 - Pointe Lachenal Traverse 150 032 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Négri 152 PREFACE 5 033 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Grisolle 154 INTRODUCTION 6 034 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Mazeaud 156 GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION 10 035 Triangle du Tacul - Goulotte Chéré 158 TECHNICAL INFORMATION 12 036 - Normal Route 160 USEFUL CONTACTS 18 037 - Tour of the East Ridge 162 ONE ORNY - TRIENT 19 038 Monte Bianco - Three monts Traverse 164 001 Gendarme d’Orny - Papa Paye Route 24 SEVEN ST. GERVAIS - LES CONTAMINES 169 002 Aiguille de la Cabane - Voie du Bon Accueil 28 039 Monte Bianco - Normal Route via the Aiguille du Gouter and the Bosses Ridge 176 003 Aiguille d’Orny - La Moquette 32 040 - Ridge Traverse 179 004 Aiguilles Dorées - Copt Couloir 36 041 Dômes de Miage - Mettrier Ridge to the East Dome 183 005 Aiguille Sans Nom - S Arête and half traverse of the Aiguilles to the E 41 042 Dômes de Miage - Traverse from East to West 186 006 Tête Blanche - N Face 46 043 Aiguille Nord de Trélatête - Normal Route of the NNW Face 189 TWO TOUR BASIN 49 EIGHT - SEIGNE 191 007 - Normal Route to the S Peak 54 044 - Normal Route 198 008 Aiguille du Tour - Couloir de la Table 58 045 Dôme de Neige des Glaciers - Lanchettes Ridge 201 009 - Forbes Arête 60 046 Petit Mont Blanc - Normal Route 204 010 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Éperon Migot 65 047 Aiguille Est di Trélatête - East Ridge 206 THREE ARGENTIÈRE BASIN 69 048 Aiguille du Châtelet - Idroelettrica or Hydrotecnique 209 011 Petite - Normal Route 74 049 Aiguille Croux - Ottoz Route on the SE Face 211 012 - Chevalier Couloir 76 050 Aiguille Croux - Cheney Route via the S Ridge 215 013 Aiguille de l’Argentière - Normal Route via the Milieu Glacier 79 NINE - COL DU GÈANT 219 014 Aiguille de l’Argentière - Couloir en Y 82 051 Dent du Géant - Normal Route on the SW Face 224 015 Aiguille du Refuge - Le gateau de Riz 85 052 - Normal Route via the Rochefort Ridge 227 016 Aiguille du Génépi - South Arête 88 053 Aiguilles d’Entrèves - SW-NE Traverse 230 FOUR 91 054 - Normal Route via the SE Ridge 233 017 Lower Envers Slabs - Pilier des Rhodo-Dindons 96 055 Tour Ronde - North Face 237 018 Lower Envers Slabs - Voie Georges 96 056 Tour Ronde - Gervasutti Couloir 239 019 Lower Envers Slabs - Vingt Mille Lieues Sous la Neige 96 057 Roi de Siam - Le Lifting du Roi 242 020 Aiguille du Moine - South Arête 100 058 Pyramide du Tacul - East Ridge or “Ottoz Route” 245 021 Aiguille du Moine - Normal Route 104 TEN 249 022 Aiguille Verte - Normal Route via the Whymper Couloir 107 059 Parete dei Titani - Génépi 1-2 253 FIVE AIGUILLES DE 111 060 Monts Rouges de Triolet - Le Chamois Volant (3289m summit) 255 023 Aiguille de l’M - NNE Arête 115 061 Monts Rouges de Triolet - La Bérésina (3327m summit) 259 024 Lames Fontaine - Voie Abert 119 062 - Normal Route 262 025 Aiguille du Peigne - Les Lépidoptères 123 026 Aiguille du Peigne - Arête des Papillons 127 ELEVEN AIGUILLES ROUGES 265 027 Aiguille du Peigne - Éperon des Minettes 130 063 Le Brévent - La Frison-Roche 270 064 Aiguille de Charlanon - Arête du Doigt 273 SIX 135 065 Aiguille de l’Index - Perroux Route-SE Ridge Combination 277 028 Aiguille du Midi - Cosmiques Arê te 141 066 Pointe Gaspard - Gaspard Premier 281 029 Aiguille du Midi - Cosmiques Spur 144 067 Aiguilles Crochues - South Ridge to South Summit (Ravanel Route) 283 030 - Midi-Plan Ridge 147 8 9 TOUR BASIN Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir Tour Basin

The vast plateau of the Glacier du Tour is the last of a series of glaciers slope descending from the col. From the top of the cable car, take the which lie along the Chamonix valley. The Trient basin, Swiss territory, path which climbs right over steep grassy slopes to the path coming is within striking distance and easily accessed in traverse. At its S and from the Col de Balme, without having to reach the col itself (4h to the N borders, two imposing peaks rise up, two opposing poles of glacier hut). There is also a path which climbs along the steep moraine on the climbing: the Aiguille du Tour, awash with those taking their first few right bank of the Tour valley, joining the other path just before the hut steps in crampons, and the Aiguille du Chardonnet, which demands (signs). This route is direct but arduous, particularly in descent. experience both in ascent and descent. The Tour basin is not ideal for combining routes. The iti- ACCESS neraries, largely glacial, are very different in terms of The start point is the village of Tour, which can be rea- difficulty: whilst the Aiguille du Tour leaves you ready for ched from Chamonix by car by heading towards the Col more, those returning from a route on the Chardonnet des Montets. Turn right after the village of Argentière, will normally want a rest. In this case, best to keep this just before the hairpins which lead to the col. Continue area for multiple visits: if you have a few days here, re- until the end of the road to the chairlift car park. In the laxing on the rock routes of the Aiguilles Rouges is a good summer, a cable car and a chairlift lead up towards Col de way to end the holiday. Balme (2204m), from here a path traverses at length until the One interesting option of linking lower routes is to climb a Albert Ier hut, near to the glacier du Tour. route on the Aiguille du Tour, traverse to the Trient refuge, climb the N In autumn, before the heavy snowfalls, the basin can still be accessed side of Tête Blanche the following day and then return directly to the and the routes are often in condition. When the lifts are closed, the Albert 1er hut (see route no. 006). walk-in is a couple of hours longer. In the spring, the Tour basin is accessed by ski, from the Argentière glacier, crossing the Col du Passon. The village of Tour can also be reached by train from Chamonix. About 15 mins from the train station to the cable car.

LE TOUR-CHARAMILLON-COL DE BALME CABLE CAR website: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr Aiguille du Tour

Suggested bases ALBERT 1er HUT, 2702 m Tel. 0033 (0)4 50 54 06 20 Places: 137 beds 8 Opening period: open in summer, winter refuge during closed periods. Signal (30 beds) Reilly Situated in the Tour basin, the Albert 1er hut is the only support base Albert 1er Hut for this area. During summer weekends, it is not uncommon to find it 7 completely booked up; should this be the case, as soon as it’s dark, between the boulders around the building you can see the torches of many improvised bivvies (lots of camping spots). The hut is accessed from the Col de Balme along an excellent path, well marked and equip- ped in part with a handrail (2h). When the lifts are closed, leave the vil- 9-10 lage of Tour on foot, initially following a path which cuts across the ski Glacier du Tour

50 51 Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir Tour Basin AIGUILLE DU TOUR Viewed from the Albert 1er hut, the Aiguille du Tour is a slender rocky two-pointed pyramid: the N point is 3544m high and the S 3542m. The latter, which hangs directly over the glacier du Tour, is the more frequented of the two. Routes: Normal Route p. 54 Couloir de La Table p. 58 Croix de Berons 2879 G l a c i e r d e s G r a n d s AIGUILLE DU POINTES DES GRANDS 3101 AIG. DU MIDI CHARDONNET AIG. DU GÉNÉPI DES GRANDS The Aiguille du Chardonnet is an isolated mountain, with 3265 3302 an elegant and complex profile. Located on the far SE AIG. DU PISSOIR 3441 limits of the glacier du Tour, perspectives are skewed: only Refuge Albert Ier Plateau after a long walk-in do its true dimensions become apparent. AIG. DU TOUR 2702 3544 7 du Trient The ascent routes, never dull, and the exposed and dangerous des- G Signal Reilly 8 cent make this peak the ‘little sister’ of Aiguille Verte, which overlooks l 2883 AIG. PURTSCHELLER a 3478 it from the nearby upper part of the Argentière glacier. Col sup. c du Tour i AIG. DU COL DU TOUR Routes: Forbes Arête p. 60 3287 e Col Du Tour 3281 Éperon Migot p. 65 r TÊTE BLANCHE d AIG. DE LA FENÊTRE u 6 3429 T 3412 TÊTE BISELX o PETITE FOURCHE 3509 Aiguille du Chardonnet u 3513 r Aiguille BEC ROUGE SUP. GRANDE FOURCHE Purtscheller 3050 AIG. DU PASSON Aiguille du Tour 3610 Tête Blanche Col du 3383 Fenêtre du Tour Col Passon Glacier AIG. FORBES 3336 Col sup. du Tour de l'Épaule 3489 du Tour 9 AIGUILLE ADAMS REILLY 10 Fenêtre sup. 3506 du Tour 3456 Glacier de Saleina 3824 AIG. DU CHARDONNET COL DU CHARDONNET le Trident 3323 les Capucins 3570 AIG. D’ARGENTIÈRE 3900

52 53 Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir Tour Basin

Easy and enjoyable route: The pitches are varied AIGUILLE DU TOUR 3544 m (glacier traverse, surmounting a col, final wall and Normal Route to the S Peak ridge), and the superb panoramas are ever-chang- ing. It’s impossible even for the most experienced mountaineer to get bored, should they choose this Aiguille S du Tour route to introduce their friends to glacier travel.

Aiguille N du Tour GEAR Equipment for glacier travel. A couple of long threads and some ice screws can prove useful in dry seasons, when the slope underneath the summit is formed of 007 black ice.

APPROACH From the Albert 1er hut, follow the cairned path in a rising traverse towards the glacier. This is reached in correspondence with the second- ary glacial snout which descends from the Fenêtre du Pissoir (20mins).

7a Aiguille du Tour 7 Aiguille Purtscheller

Glacier du Trient • FIRST ASCENT: • GRADE: • SUPPORT BASES: Col sup. du C.G. Heathcote with F, I-II Albert 1er hut Tour M. Andermatten, • HEIGHT GAIN: • FEATURES: 18 August 1864 800 m Glacier traverse, easy rocky ridge

8

007 7

Glacier du Tour 6

54 55 Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir Tour Basin

with the path coming from the Cabane du Trient). From here, the two rocky pinnacles of the Aiguille du Tour are visible and within reach. Continue, aiming for the left (S) peak. Reach the short but steep slope which descends from the summit, cross the bergschrund and move left to reach the rocks. Follow ledges to the right, to a small col on the N ridge. Follow the ridge over boulders, scratched by thousands of cram- pon points, until the summit (3h from the hut).

DESCENT Same route.

IDEAL CONDITIONS Extremely busy route from the start of summer to autumn. At the end of the season or during very warm periods, the final slopes transform into black ice and there is a risk of rockfall from above. In autumn, af- ter the first snowfalls, the glacier traverse is very delicate (hidden and fragile ice bridges).

OTHER OPTIONS • 7a from the base of the two small E faces of the Aiguille du Tour, it is ROUTE possible to climb the N peak over slightly more difficult rock sections. Previous page, above: on the Glacier du The first part of the route follows the right bank of (see photo page 54). Trient, towards the N and S peaks of the the glacier du Tour to reach and overcome the Col • 7b the N face of Tête Blanche is not far from the Col Superieur du Aiguille du Tour Superieur du Tour, then leads across the upper part Tour (20mins of slightly descending traverse along the Plateau du Tri- Previous page, below: N Summit of the Plateau du Trient. From here, continue until ent). Above: on the summit the small E faces of the two peaks and climb over Below: the plateau of the Glacier du Tour rocks to the summit. From the Albert Ier hut, once at the glacier du Tour, traverse aiming towards the Signal Reilly (2883m), a small rocky rise underneath the SW ridge of the Ai- guille du Tour. Go beyond this (possible to go below or above), to reach the upper slopes. Climb obliquely right, avoiding a treacherous section (large cre- vasses). Continue until the rocky ridge to the left of Col Sup. du Tour. Go around its WSW spur to enter into the narrow secondary valley which descends from the Col Superieur du Tour, on ever-steepening slopes. A few metres on rock lead to the col. Descend easily from the other side onto the Plateau du Trient and continue ascending, bordering the red rocks of the sharp Aiguille Purtscheller (usual meeting point

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