Demystifying

Historically handloom has got its predominance and heritages in . The tradition of weaving cloth by hand is the richest aspects of Bangladeshi culture and heritage. Muslin is produced from handloom which is one of the purest, simplest, most gentle and most comfortable, perfect fabrics in the world. It is believed to have originated in Bangladesh during the middle ages. The process of making handloom fabrics is intricate and it requires unparallel and unique level of artistry. The handloom can meet every need from exquisite fabrics of daily usage. The industry has displayed innate resilience to withstand and adopt itself to the changing demand of modern times. Moreover, handloom fabrics are eco friendly.

Our heritage in handloom has been dignified because of Muslin- a world famous fabric. It was the symbol of majestic aristocracy. It was famous for its own aesthetic beauty, artistic work and dexterity. Muslin is specially produced from “Carpus Fibre” in special weather which is perfect plain, even, thin and transparent.

Muslin was a brand name of Pre-colonial Bengal Textile, specially of Region. During British rule skilled weavers of Bengal attained world wide fame for their Muslin weaved with locally produced and it was branded as the Dhakai Muslin. It was favorite to the girls of royal palace and it was appreciated by them as elegant dress.

Once upon a time, the emperor of Delhi, Jahangir said to have pledged to give some gifts to her mother-in-law. She expressed that Muslin would be highly pleased to have a cup of Muslin as gift. Jahangir then sent 2200 cavalier to the Bengal to collect the muslin. Two-thirds of cavalier died to cross the lengthy path of Bengal. The rest riders of the party collected a small cup of muslin and presented it to the mother-in-law of the emperor of Delhi.

Muslin had enormous goodwill as evident from the documents of European merchants in 17th and 18th century. The Muslin cloth high demands to the Emperor and Nawabs. Subedar of Bengal selected the Muslin fabrics as a gift for the Mughal emperors to draw their attention. Even, Empress Nurjahan had special fascination for Muslin fabrics. The famous muslin is reserved at Victoria and Albert museum in United Kingdom (UK). The finest sort of Muslin was made of “phuti” cotton, which was grown in certain localities on the banks of the river Sitalakhya.

Muslin’s definition is broad. It generally meant fine, white/off white cotton cloth- a rare commodity in the past. How fine? Few indicators survive, but it appears the 250 count and above was considered as the starting point for Muslin. It was mostly plain, edged with gold or red, woven or embroidered with motifs, rarely dyed. However, among the few places in India that produced fine white cotton cloth known as Muslin. Dhaka’s Muslin was considered as the benchmark. Its cotton was special; glossy, feather-light, transparent, (Gossypium arboreum, a la, phuti karpas), its yarn reached thread counts above 1000 and its weavers produced both plain and the much-sought after, flowered and figured .

The final cloth may be hand-woven, hand-milled or even factory-produced i,e, machine-milled.

Characteristics of Muslin : (a) It is 100% cotton cloth. (b) Muslin is comfortable. (c) Muslin is perfectly plain, even, thin and transparent. (d) Muslin is extremely light in weight. (e) Muslin is normally white and off white colored. But it may be colored, printed and embroidered.

The honorable Prime Minister of The Government of The People’s Republic of Bangladesh visited the Ministry of Textiles & Jute on 12-10-2014 and gave directions for the development of handloom industry of the country. The directives regarding reviving the technology of muslin yarn are as follows:

“বস্ত্রশিল্পে বা廬লাল্পেল্পি স ানালী ঐশিহ্য রল্পেল্পে। স াꇍ স াꇍ এলা াে ম শলল্পনর িা তিরী হ্ল্পিা িা সেল্পন স প্র뷁শি ꧁ন쇁দ্ধাল্পরর উল্পযাগ গ্রহণ করতে হতে”।

This is one of the greatest innovative initiatives that Her Majesty has undertaken.

As per above instruction A Specialized Committee headed by Chairman, Bangladesh Handloom Board (BHB) comprising 7 members was formed and they are working according to the TOR and work plan. Meanwhile, specialized committee chalked out strategies to implement the aforesaid directives. BHB is frantically looking for Muslin made Angarakha (আঙ্গারাখা)to carry out research work. In this context, BHB is making an effective coordination and rapport with Bangladesh National Museum. BHB is asking technical support and expertise from Rajshahi University Biological Science & famous Research Organisation “Drik”.

In view of materializing of the said directives of Hon’ble Prime Minister, BHB has prepared a DPP under the guidance of Ministry of Textiles & Jute. Hopefully our efforts shall be successful in terms of reviving and producing the muslin yarn and muslin fabrics eventually. By turns this effort will help developing lost glory of muslin and uphold our heritage and tradition across the country and globe.

Jashim Uddin Ahmed Chairman (Additional Secretary) Bangladesh Handloom Board (BHB)